3D Router plans.

-Take the time to understand the plans, and how it works the machine.
These plans are for routers with 43mm clamplig collar like Kress 1050, for
other tools, you must be make changes surely.
-Plans are in metric units, you can generate plans in imperial units simply
by changing the units to "imperial" in SketchUp under“window-model info",
but the units will not work out to even numbers like they do in metric.
-In Autocad, under format-units you can change units easy.

Included with the plans:

-Instructions in english and spanish.

-Cutting list and ferrules list.
-Detailed drawings of every part of the 3D Router.
-Escaled-printable plans of many parts in .pdf and .jpeg extension, A4
and A3 format.
-Full-scale printable templates of others parts in .pdf extension, A3 format.
-A .dwg Autocad extension 2007/LT2007, 3D model of the 3D Router,
which allows you to view the machine from any angle, disassemble it, reform
it...and consulting measures or views on the tabs layouts.
-A SketchUp 3D model of the 3D Router, which allows you to view the
machine from any angle, disassemble it, reform it...SketchUp is a free, easy
to use CAD program.
- Files are a solid 3D model, i use Autocad to design, Artcam and Mach3 to
cnc, if you need 2D plans to CAM works, open the Dwg file in autocad,
positioning the view and the layers you need, then under command _xedges
you get the edges, save as a new DXF file and try again, CAM programs use
DXF files.
-Dxf files to use Cam programs.
-The 3D models are composed of layers, some hidden to better understand
the drawing, can activate or re-hide them under Layers command.
-The plans are a 10 megabyte zip file (your computer, Mac or PC, already
knows how to open zip files)

-If you encounter any problems with the plans, feel free to contact me in
web Forum or mail direcction.

https://www.youtube.com/user/gpaoson
 Safety note:
-Never cut metals, cement or masonry.
-Make sure power switches are in “OFF” position before plugging tool in.
-Check tools from damage.
-Disconnect tool from power source before servicing, adjusting or changing
set-ups or blades, bsaw, router bit and other accessories.
-Use proper feed direction.
-Do not force tool or workpiece. Operate tool at intended speed and feed
rate for better and safer operation.
-A potential danger with mounting the router inside this machine is that the
router's switch may bump against the template or the template holder and be
turned on unexpectedly.
-A further safety improvement is to use a router with a slow start. Such a
router starts off very slowly, thus giving time to get one's hands out of the way
before injury occurs if it should start unexpectedly.
-Be careful with the router, hands and clothes, use clamps or adapt
templates to your difficult works.

Description and assembly:

-The Overall dimensions of the machine are 800X740X700mm.
-The Useful working dimensions are X425 Y535 Z185mm aprox. In X axis
can be works longer boards and moving them on the work surface.
-The idea arose after dealing with the difficulties and loss of time in
preparing for certain CNC jobs. Sometimes I spent more time preparing for
the CNC than the work itself. With this manual router, you can make holes or
mill very fast. A 43mm clamplig collar makes it very versatile and you can
change the milling tool to drill very fast.
-Check my step by step videos on youtube for this construcion.
-Making this tool requires great precision and considerable experience in
woodworking. Cuts should be perfectly straight and square. They must be
axis parallel and well aligned, to avoid bumps on bearings, otherwise, the
tool wiCheck my step by step videos on youtube for this construcionll start
vibrating
-The curved or special operations can do so by printing the full-scale plan
and sticking paper over the board as a cutting guide with jig or router.
-The 608 bearings must be precision and sealed, so do not get stuck with
dust, some cheap bearings have clearances and stuck fast, we must enlarge
the 8mm hole in the direction and areas that are marked on the plans to
adjust bearings to the metal profile, to prevent width.You can also use the V
Groove bearings, they have a 90 degrees angle , simplifies work but are more
expensive, although half are needed, there are of the same size as the 608,
and would have to modify some measures in plans, we must enlarge the
8mm hole in the direction and areas that are marked. I have tried to make a
design which can be easily built, with rather simple and cheap parts.

-The spring must fit in your place, use the upper hook to regulate tension,
must support the weight of the router.
-The Machine is made of hard plywood 18mm screwed, and i used dowels
to get more stability, for the joints I used 4x50, 4x40, 4x35 screws.
-Fast clamping sleeves and the axis brakes, whish are also made from
18mm plywood width .
-Only use tail in parts that need extra resistance, like the 43mm collet or
in followers holder.
-The L shapped perfil must be made of iron or steel. I've used
aluminum, but, as it is softer than the bearings, a groove can be
made on the metal profiles, which after long term use may cause
width . You can glue it or screw it preventing the screws from
touching the bearings. Use a rule to leave them paralell and
straight.
-The Axis can be extended to get more useful work surface, suggest extend
the X axis, why it is the most stable axis.
-For the left hand i use a angle grinder handle, you can also made of wood.
-The 43mm clamplig collar hole should be very fair, do with exact drill or a
CNC, It can be very dangerous if the router drops.
-After several tests, I think it is better to use followers by the back, holding
own followers, from the front you have less feeling with the machine and
templates.
-I painted the body, to protect.
-Connect a vacuum to avoid dust.
-Do not forget to install an electrical box with emergency button to spare
possible shocks...
-The Use of this tool is similar to using the router with hand and templates,
you straining sideways to touch the ends of the axis or the template contourn
if you are using.
-In our youtube channel we have videos of the process and more
imformation, will guide you throughout the process.

-When finished job, send me photos to web forum to share your

experience!!!
 Testing:

-Electric Guitar body on the 3D Router (part1)

-Before starting this project, I install a block on the Z axis in order to mill
from the rear, without having to pull the lever, which is very useful for certain
pieces of work with the 2D Follower. I made the templates in a CNC for the
2D contours y for the 3D top of the guitar. If you do not have a CNC, I
recommend that you order them from someone who has them. They could
also be made by hand but, if it is done accurately, some good templates may
be used to duplicate a job at any time! In this situation, we could also use a
real guitar as a template. I made two bases of 700x350x10mm on MDF in
order to hold and locate the pieces to be worked on.

-Electric Guitar body on the 3D Router (part2)

-The bearing of the 2D Follower must have the same diameter as the
router bit, or install a smaller bearing if you are looking for a bigger milling
cutter than the one in the template itself. The depth of each pass on Z axis
depends on the material and the work tool. As you can see in the video at
2'50 min, the 2D Follower can be used from ahead or from the back.
Personally, I prefer from the back because I feel more at ease with the
template.

-Electric Guitar body on the 3D Router (part3)

-I lower all the elements of the Y axis, bringing the milling cutter close to
the piece to be worked on. Then, I adjust the height of the touch probe in
order to use the 3D Follower. As I am going to lower the cover by passing
several times on Z, I first leave the milling cutter at a slightly higher level than
the touch probe. In the last pass, these heights must be identical. As with the
2D Follower, I prefer milling from the back because I feel more at ease with
the template and it is less dangerous.