Ender 3/Cr-10 to CNC Machine Instructions

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 Table of Contents

Introduction.................................................................................................................................2
Parts list.......................................................................................................................................3
Parts for the machine...............................................................................................................3
Parts for the vacuum................................................................................................................4
What to print...............................................................................................................................5
What to print for the machine.................................................................................................5
What to print for the vacuum..................................................................................................6
Assembly.....................................................................................................................................7
Threaded inserts......................................................................................................................7
Machine assembly...................................................................................................................8
Vacuum assembly...................................................................................................................9
Wiring and power sources.....................................................................................................10
Generating gcode for your machine..........................................................................................10
How to use CAM...................................................................................................................10
Final steps..............................................................................................................................11

Introduction

Welcome to the Instructions. If you have come here from my thingiverse page, you are
probably interested in this project. The goal was to create a design that is as cheap as possible
and uses only few parts that need to be bought. There are a couple of things to know before
you decide to do this upgrade for your Creality Printer.

First of all, you will still be able to use your 3d Printer with its designated purpose. Turning it
back into a 3d Printer is really easy because there are basically only two screws attaching the
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motor mount to the X-carriage. You will also have to remove/reattach the Bowden tube from
the extruder every time you convert it back and the bed usually needs to be releveled if you
used it as a CNC for a longer time.

Also keep your expectations reasonable! This does not by any means replace a real CNC
machine. The biggest limiting factor in my experience has been rigidity. Always keep in mind
that you are working with a 3d Printer that was not designed to do heavy duty machining.

Don’t worry though, you will probably not break your Printer if something goes wrong. In my
experience only the 3d printed coupler takes damage because it bends when you are going to
deep into the workpiece and the spindle can’t keep up with the feedrate. This is not a big deal
as it can easily be avoided. Even if it happens, printing another one only takes 15 minutes.

If you look aside these issues, there’s massive potential in using your 3d Printer as a CNC
machine, especially engraving wood works like a charm.

Adding the vacuum is optional but recommended if you are going to be using it frequently
and do not want sawdust everywhere. Alternatively, you could stand next to it and manually
vacuum the sawdust from your workpiece every couple of minutes.

In the following, I will walk you through all the necessary steps of the process. There is a
parts list, a section on what files to print, Instructions on how to assemble everything and a
section on how to use CAM if you don’t already know how to use it.

Parts list
Parts for the machine
You will need the following parts if you plan on converting your 3d Printer:
Note: These are only the essential parts that you will need. If you plan on adding a vacuum,
you will also need the parts listed in the Parts for the vacuum section.
o 775 Motor – This one will be used as the spindle motor. They are a really
cheap alternative to an actual spindle motor, they only cost around 10 euros
and definitely have enough power for this application.

o A set of M3 screws – These are pretty common screws used in 3d Printers.

You might already have some at home and do not need to buy them.

o M4 screws – They are used for securing the motor in the motor mount. Don’t
use bigger ones than M4x12 as they will block the motor from spinning. You
will only need two of those. If you do not have any at home you can use the
replacement one your Ender 3 came with (If you have kept it). It’ll only be one
but that will be enough as the motor fits into the mount pretty snugly and the
screw only keeps the motor from moving in the rotary and z axis.

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 o M3x5x5 threaded inserts – Threaded inserts are incredibly useful to have for
3d printing. These specific ones are also used in Injection molding, you’ll find
them on your bed leveling knobs on your Ender 3. They will only set you back
around 5 euros. If you have ever built a 3d Printer you will probably have some
spare ones lying around that you can use.

o Some wires or alligator clips – You will need those for connecting the motor
to your power source. I have chosen to use alligator clips, simply for being able
to quickly remove them whenever I want to do 3d printing on the machine
again. Also, they are not permanently attached to the motor like soldered wires
are which makes it easier to use the motor in other applications in the future.

o A suitable power source – You can use pretty much everything here, ranging
from a cheap power supply to a couple of batteries hooked in series. I
recommend using something that can steadily supply the desired amount of
Voltage needed, so batteries are probably not the best choice for longer jobs. I
am using this variable power supply (Banggood alternative), the only
downside is that it does not go up to 36V which is the maximum the motor can
take.

o Some Drill bits/tools – You probably already have drill bits at home. If you
have a Dremel, you can just use the ones that came with it. Alternatively, you
can buy some. There are many couplers available in the files, but I recommend
sticking with a 3mm or smaller one. You can also use engraving tools for better
results and finer detail with engraving. Just measure the end of your tool and
choose the appropriate coupler from the files list.

o Wood – Of course some pieces of wood are needed for carving into. I have not
tried cutting anything thicker than 6mm, but it might work with a low depth per
pass. Also, a piece of sacrificial wood is needed to go underneath your
workpiece, so you don’t damage your printing surface when accidentally
cutting too deep. You can use a pretty thick one here just to be safe (I am using
an old piece of 12mm plywood)

Parts for the vacuum

If you plan on installing a vacuum, you will also need the parts listed here. If you want to use
your printer without a vacuum attachment, skip ahead to the What to print section.
Parts that are also used in the other section are listed here:
o M3 screws

o M4 screws – You will only need two more for mounting the
second motor

o Threaded inserts

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 o Another 775 motor

o More wires/alligator clips – For connecting your power source to the motor (only
two are needed).

o A second power source – You don’t need a very powerful one here as you need for
the spindle motor. Using batteries is totally sufficient here, but I recommend using
rechargeable ones. I am using a 3 cell LiPo battery that occasionally needs recharging,
but I might upgrade to another one of these variable power supplies in the future.

Apart from the parts listed above, you will also need:
o An airtight container – Something that all the waste will fall into, I used an old
lunchbox. You will need to cut several holes into the lid, so use something you do not
need anymore. The lid will need to have a flat surface of at least 80 x 80mm.

o Hose – For attaching the Vacuum to the duct on your X-carriage. I am using an old
one I found in our garage (It has an outer diameter of 30mm and an inner diameter of
26mm). You can also use a smaller/larger one, you just need to model an adapter for
it. Step files are included to make this as easy as possible, assuming you know your
way around CAD.

o Filter – Optional. If you choose to add a filter to your vacuum, there is files included
to print one. You can use basically anything in there (e.g. old sponge, piece of fabric,
face mask,…), it just needs to roughly fit into the filter box, which is 60x60x28mm
big.

What to print

All .stl files are listed here with a brief explanation and some recommendations on slicer
settings and material choice. Most parts however can be printed without supports and in PLA
(unless instructed otherwise).

What to print for the machine

o Motor Mount.stl – I recommend printing it in PETG but if you don’t have any PLA
will do fine too.

o Coupler Drill bit.stl – There are files for couplers for 1-5mm drill bits. Measure your
drill bit and choose the right one. These ones wear out over time, so I recommend you
print a couple ones once you have your horizontal expansion dialed in (they only take
about 15 minutes). PETG is also the better choice here. In your slicer put 4mm wall
thickness so that the whole coupler is being printed as a wall. As for tolerances, you
rather want too big holes than too small ones. Drilling the holes out is not a good idea
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 as the hole might not be straight anymore, putting a small piece of paper in when the
hole is too big is a far better idea.

o Coupler Drill bit with M3 screw holes – Optional. Only print this one when you
have problems with the coupler coming loose on either end. I have tried at least 10
different designs that clamp the drill bit and the motor shaft but only this one worked
without much vibration due to a shifted center of gravity because of the weight of the
screws/threaded inserts. This coupler only lasts two or three tool changes as the plastic
threads wear out if you use them too often, so print multiple ones.

o 4x Workpiece Clamp.stl – These also range from 20-35mm in 5mm increments

depending on what you need. Measure the distance from the end of your heated bed to
the top surface of your workpiece and choose accordingly. The clamps should also be
printed with PETG and sliced with 4mm wall thickness.

o Z Leadscrew Knob.stl – Optional but really useful. The Z offset will have to be
manually adjusted whenever you want to start a new job and this makes it a lot easier
to do.

What to print for the vacuum

Skip ahead to the assembly section if you are not adding a vacuum. For everyone who does,
here’s what you need to print:
o Vortex Chamber.stl – For separating the sawdust from the air. Supports are needed
but only for the hose adapter (In your slicer set support overhang angle to 60 degrees /
touching buildplate. Orient the model upside down). You can use adaptive layers to
cut down on total printing time.

o Attachment Ring.stl – For mounting the Chamber to your airtight container.

o Fan Housing.stl – Self-explanatory, the housing for the fan

o Fan Housing Cover.stl – For mounting the motor and covering the fan housing.

o Fan.stl – You will find three versions, V1 was my first attempt

and actually works well but is a bit loud. V2 was my fourth
attempt at making a fan for the vacuum. It is a bit quieter and
eliminates some of the issues V1 had (fan scraping on the housing
at too high RPM). V3 further tackles this issue but I think it moves
less air than V2. (In the picture are all the attempts that didn’t
work out minus the ones I threw away)

o TPU Gasket.stl – Goes in between the Chamber and the fan housing to make it
airtight. As the name already tells you, it should be printed in TPU.

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 o Vacuum Duct.stl – There is a V1 and V2 version. I am using the V2 version as it does
not limit your build area as much as V1. In your slicer set horizontal expansion to 0. I
also recommend printing it at 0.16mm layer height or lower, as there is a relatively
steep overhang. Supports are not needed though.

o Tube Adapter.stl – For mounting the vacuum duct to the motor mount and attaching
the hose to it. Also set horizontal expansion to 0. If your holes turn out too small,
make them slightly bigger by pushing your flush cutters in and turning them.

o Filter Housing.stl – Optional. If you’re adding a filter, you will need to choose
between filter housing 1 and 2. Filter housing 1 requires supports and has the air outlet
at the bottom and there is an adapter included for installing another hose that leads
outside for example. Number 2 has the air passing straight through the filter of your
choice and out the front.

o Filter Housing Cover.stl – Optional. Here you can also find two versions. Pick the
one that has the same number as the Housing that you chose.

o TPU Gasket Filter.stl – Optional. Strongly recommended when using a filter so that
no air is leaking before it passed the filter. Should be printed in TPU.

o Tube Clamp.stl – Optional. Can be printed if your tube connection is not airtight or if
the hose comes loose.

Assembly

If you have trouble assembling something or are not sure where it goes, reference the CAD
model. If you are still not sure and it doesn’t become clear in the instructions, you can
message me here: briesemeisterben3@gmail.com or on Reddit.

Threaded inserts
Threaded inserts are extremely useful in 3d printing and they are easy to install. You can use a
soldering iron to heat them up and slowly, and without applying much force, push them into
your 3d printed part. Here is a tutorial on how to do it. Alternatively, if you don’t have a
soldering iron or just prefer to do it that way, you can put them onto a long M3 screw and heat
them up with a lighter. They usually sit a bit straighter if you do it that way, but it takes a lot
longer. Only unscrew the screw you used after the threaded insert has completely cooled
down. Also try to get it flush with the edges of your 3d printed part (especially with all the
vacuum parts!!!) so there is no gap between the two parts you are trying to connect.

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If you are not sure where all the threaded inserts go, I suggest you take a look at the CAD
models (step files are included on thingiverse).

Machine assembly
Before you start, make sure you have put in all threaded inserts. If you are not adding a
vacuum attachment, don’t worry about it. No threaded inserts are needed for you, except for
the workpiece clamps.
First you will need to remove your fan shroud. It is attached to the X-carriage with two
screws, put the screws aside for later, they will be reused. Next remove your hotend and put
the two screws and washers somewhere you will find them again. The Bowden tube will also
need to be removed but only where it connects to your extruder (I keep the blue clip from the
pneumatic fitting, the hotend screws and everything else I need for converting it in a small
bag so I won’t lose it).
Now put the fan shroud and hotend somewhere next to your printer so they won’t obstruct the
Y-axis. I recommend adding some form of connector to the heatsink fan (I’m using a JST type
connector I soldered on) so you can disconnect it and its not pointlessly running when the
printer is being used for other purposes than 3d printing. It would also be possible to
configure the fan to only run when your hotend temperature is above a certain threshold in
firmware.
Next step is to install the motor mount. Do this before you install the motor. Here you’ll be
using the two original screws, the left one goes in from the front and the upper right one goes
in from the back. If the motor mount is not securely locked in place, replace the screw from
the back with a slightly longer one from your M3 screw set.
Then push the motor into the mount and secure it with
the M4 screws. Now install the coupler and a drill bit of
your choice. Again, if any of the holes are too big, try
making them smaller by pushing a small piece of paper
in. (Pictures on the right)
The last step is getting your print bed ready. In this step
you will need your piece of sacrificial wood, the
material you are planning on cutting into and the four bed brackets. Make sure your material

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roughly fits on your buildplate, it can be smaller but not bigger. Then secure it using the bed
brackets and four M3 screws. It should look something like the picture below.

Vacuum assembly
Make sure you have all threaded inserts installed before assembly, except for the ones on the
attachment ring. Do not forget the two inserts on the motor mount.
Now take the attachment ring and hold it tight against the lid of your airtight container.
Outline the big hole in the middle and the small outer holes with a pen. Then drill out the
small holes and cut out the big one. I used a Dremel for both. After that you can put the
threaded inserts into the attachment ring.
After you’ve done that, you can mount the chamber to your container
using the attachment ring (on the inside of your container) and six M3
screws.
Then mount the fan housing on top of the vortex separator chamber.
Put the TPU gasket in between to prevent the vacuum from getting
less powerful due to air leaking.
Next, you’re going to have to mount the 775 motor to the fan housing
cover with the two M4 screws. Mount the fan onto the motor shaft
and make sure that it is able to spin freely, not touching the bottom
surface of the fan housing cover. The next step is to screw the cover onto the fan housing.
Connect the motor to a battery and make sure the fan is spinning freely.
Now you can mount the vacuum duct and the tube adapter on the motor mount. You will need
another 4 M3 screws for that. Install the hose next, attaching one end to the adapter and the
other end to the round inlet of the vacuum.
Optional - If you are adding a filter, attach the filter housing to the outlet of the vacuum,
putting the TPU filter gasket in between. Then put your filter media inside and secure it in
place by screwing the cover on. Make sure your filter of choice does not obstruct the airflow
too much.

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The assembly of the vacuum is now complete. If you are
interested in how it works, the following section might be
worth reading.
A vortex separator removes solids and free liquids from a
gas stream, protecting filter elements and extending the life
of the filter element. Vortex filtering uses high energy
momentum generated when a fluid stream is injected into a
curved vessel to force solids and free liquids to the walls of
the tubes. They flow to the circumferential gap and are
removed from the Gas stream (see image on the right).
Vortex separation can provide 99.9% removal of solids
down to 0.3 micron and 99.9% removal of free liquids
down to 1-3 microns.

Wiring and power sources

Wiring is pretty straightforward, just attach the two motors
to a power source. I recommend at least 24V for the spindle though. The voltage for the
vacuum is not as important but the more you apply to the motor, the more powerful the
suction will become. Just test what works best for you.
Also using alligator clips makes the conversion back to a 3d printer a lot easier.

Generating gcode for your machine

How to use CAM

If you have never used CAM software before, here’s a quick section to get you started. If you
are already familiar with CAM, skip this section.
The easiest to use CAM software is Easel and Kirimoto, both are web based and pretty much
the equivalent to tinkercad in the 3d printing world – easy to use but not very powerful. If you
would like something more powerful, look into ESTLcam or you can do it in Fusion360.
Here I will be covering how to use Easel, which has enough functions for beginners and is
also fairly simple. Follow this link to get there. The red numbers are for reference in the
picture on page 11.
After you have created an account, you will be able to enter the web interface. The first step is
to choose a design. You can either import your own (as a .dxf file) or you can choose one
from easels library. Both can be done on the toolbar on the right (1).
Next set the work area (2) to your printers build area. Then enter the dimensions of the
Material you’re cutting (4). Also enter the size of the drill bit you are using (5).
Then select the outlines of your model and set the cutting depth (3). This can either be done
individually or for the whole model. (Go lower with your cutting depth if you notice that the
drill is not keeping up with the federate or lower the federate instead)
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Now set your feed rates and depth per pass (6), you can experiment
here, but I have found the values in the picture on the right to work
well.
The final step is to export your file. This can be done on the Machine
tab (2)  Advanced  Generate gcode  Export gcode. Set your
Origin safety height to 0 before you export.
It will give you a .nc file that just needs to be renamed to .gcode to
make it readable for Marlin. Don’t worry, you will not damage the
file. Put the file onto your printers SD card.

Final steps
Now before you start cutting, you have to manually set the home offsets. The machine itself
does not know where it is during operation. The drill bit on your machine represents the
bottom left corner of your model, so measure if there is enough room to each side so there are
no collisions. You can take the measurements from Easel as a reference.
The final step is to set the z offset. Here the z leadscrew knob comes in handy. Simply slide a
piece of paper between the drill bit and your workpiece and lower the gantry slowly with the
knob until you feel the same resistance as you would when you are leveling your bed om the
piece of paper.
Congratulations! You are now ready to try out your machine. Power up the spindle motor and
the vacuum and start printing the gcode file you have previously generated.

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-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If you have made it this far into the instructions, you have probably completed this build. I
really hope you learned something, and I hope you have a great time with your new CNC
machine. As you might have noticed, I put a lot of effort into this and since it is available for
free, I’d be very grateful if you considered using the “Tip Designer” function on thingiverse,
especially considering that I am only 17 years old and 3d printing can be quite an expensive

hobby 😉.

Also, I will keep working on this project and I will keep improving on my design, so if you
have any suggestions what could’ve been done better, feel free to give me a quick feedback.
That would be greatly appreciated.
You can reach me on my e-mail briesemeisterben3@gmail.com or on Reddit.

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