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‘‘Shades of Beauty’’: Examining

the Relationship of Skin Color to Perceptions


of Physical Attractiveness
Cynthia M. Frisby, Ph.D.1

ABSTRACT

The purpose of this research project was to investigate the relationship between

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skin color and level of perceived physical attractiveness. Previous research suggested that
skin color plays an important role in how we perceive an individual’s physical attractiveness.
The current study was conducted to determine how influential the role of race is on
perceptions of physical attractiveness. In this study, 79 subjects were asked to evaluate
images of potential endorsers to be used in an upcoming advertising campaign. The images
were those of females of varying skin tones. Data were then collected and analyzed to
determine whether skin tone and level of skin color can in fact influence the physical
attractiveness stereotype.

KEYWORDS: Skin tone, skin color, physical attractiveness, advertising images, African
American images in advertising

A dvertisers commonly use light-skinned black For many black women, however, Berry was not a true
models to cater to a diverse consumer population. Using representation of the African American female. Frisby1
light-skinned black models in advertising may have roots found that black women felt that the inclusion of Berry
from when the mulatto population began growing dur- in the Revlon advertisement was just the advertiser’s way
ing slavery. Mulattos are mixed, with African and of using a ‘‘safe’’ black image in their ad. One woman
Caucasian blood, and often have lighter skin, straighter said, ‘‘I’m looking at the model and saying, that’s not me.
hair, and perhaps lighter eyes than a ‘‘nonmixed black’’ in She doesn’t even look like me.’’
America. With society now demanding more diversity in The advertisers for Pantene, a hair product, real-
media, advertisers seem to rely on black models with ized that to diversify their target market they must use
some kind of European physical feature to advertise different races. One Pantene advertisement shows a
mainstream products. The present study investigates black woman with long flowing hair using the product.
the influence of skin tone and color on perceptions of Do white consumers see the black model and assume
facial beauty. The question the research addresses is: that Pantene works only on ‘‘black hair’’? On the other
Does skin tone influence our perceptions of beauty? side, do black women who do not have long straight hair
Take Revlon cosmetics, for example. In the early think that Pantene works only for the ‘‘good’’ hair? With
1990s, Revlon began a campaign using actress Halle several mainstream products using black models with
Berry. Berry, the daughter of a white mother and a black European features, it is believed that the self-esteem of
father, was the first African American model for Revlon. dark-skinned black women, in particular, is bound to

1
Missouri School of Journalism, University of Missouri—Columbia, The Changing Definition of Beauty; Guest Editors, C. W. David
Columbia, Missouri. Chang, M.D. and Karen H. Calhoun, M.D.
Address for correspondence and reprint requests: Cynthia M. Facial Plast Surg 2006;22:175–179. Copyright # 2006 by Thieme
Frisby, Ph.D., Missouri School of Journalism, University of Medical Publishers, Inc., 333 Seventh Avenue, New York, NY 10001,
Missouri—Columbia, 360 McReynolds Hall, Columbia, MO USA. Tel: +1(212) 584-4662.
65211. DOI 10.1055/s-2006-950174. ISSN 0736-6825.
175
176 FACIAL PLASTIC SURGERY/VOLUME 22, NUMBER 3 2006

suffer from exposure to light-skinned women in adver- melanin determine differences in skin color and tone.
tisements.2 When people have a great deal of melanin, their skin
Keenan3 found that blacks in advertisements had looks dark brown. When there is a medium amount of
lighter complexions and more Caucasian features than melanin, skin is referred to as light brown. When there is
those in news editorial photographs. Keenan also dis- a very small amount of melanin, the skin is very light,
covered that black women in advertisements were almost pale in complexion.
lighter than black men. Leslie4 investigated the chang- Skin color is highly correlated with other pheno-
ing image of blacks in advertisements and found sig- typic features—eye color, hair texture, broadness of nose,
nificant differences in the aesthetic qualities of the and fullness of lips.10 European features are all accorded
models used. Leslie found that many of the models higher status both within and beyond the African
used in the advertisements were fair skinned and had American community. These European traits function
European features. So, although research reveals an along with color in complex ways to ‘‘shape opportuni-
increase in the use of black models and black products, ties, norms regarding attractiveness, self-concept, and
the trend seems to suggest that the facial appearance overall body image.’’10 Data obtained in the Thompson
and features tend to be more ‘‘Caucasian-like’’ and are and Keith study also seem to suggest that women with
depicted with Eurotypic features. more Caucasoid features are perceived as more attractive
‘‘If a Black woman is light-skinned with good hair to the opposite sex and are more successful in their love
and good features, then she’s [‘‘hot’’]. . . . But a dark- lives than women with more Negroid features. Dark-
skinned girl with short hair can forget it. And if she has a skinned women, according to this study, are seen as

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big nose, then she should just be a nun. But if she has occupying the bottom rung of the social ladder, being
long hair and good features, then her skin color can be least marriageable, and having the fewest options for
overlooked. Long hair really helps out those black ugly higher education and career advancement.
girls.’’—Darryl, a working-class black man, as quoted in If having dark-colored skin is perceived as neg-
The Color Complex.2 ative or if American consciousness is biased against dark
complexions, how do advertising images of different skin
tones affect judgments and perceptions of attractiveness?
MEDIA AND SKIN COLOR The answer to this question provides important impli-
The most prominent public debate about whether skin cations for advertisers.
color and skin tone affect audience perceptions was The following research investigates how light or
raised when Time magazine’s June 20, 1994 cover dark complexions of women affect potential consumers.
exhibited a photo-illustration of O.J. Simpson’s Los It tests the hypothesis that women with darker skin tone
Angeles Police Department mug shot. The photo are judged negatively or as less attractive than the same
showed Simpson with darkened skin and darkened razor women with lighter skin tone.
stubble5,6 Critics argued that making Simpson’s skin
darker publicly cast him in the stereotypical image of the
menacing black man and that this image could negatively Research Questions
affect a jury’s perception of him.5,6 Because the dominant culture may hold lighter skin tone
African Americans with dark-colored skin have as attractive, it is valuable to research the attitudes
faced more discrimination in terms of negatively stereo- toward skin tone and attractiveness. Therefore, the
typed media images than African Americans with light- following hypotheses are proposed:
colored skin, who have enjoyed more social favoritism in
the media.7,8 Whether Time magazine editors had a racist H1: Photos of persons with lighter skin tones will
intent or not, many Americans perceived the colored receive higher scores for perceived attractiveness
image to be a race code. Simpson’s visage and ethnicity among a sample of participants.
were exploited, his complexion manipulated, and his H2: Photos of persons with darker skin tones will
plight was recast as ‘‘An American Tragedy’’ to sensation- receive lower scores for perceived attractiveness
alize the case and sell more copies of Time magazine.9 among a sample of participants.

THEORETICAL FRAMEWORK Physical Attractiveness


The physical attractiveness stereotype has been described
Skin Color as the tendency for people ‘‘to ascribe socially desirable
All skin is composed of four substances and has four personality traits to those who are good looking, seeing
colors: brown, yellow, white, and red. Yellow in the skin them as more sociable, poised, and well adjusted than
is called carotene, red is referred to as hemoglobin, and those who are less attractive.’’11 Dion et al12 found that
brown is called melanin. The presence and amount of physical attractiveness stereotypes do exist. In their study
SHADES OF BEAUTY/FRISBY 177

they found that attractive individuals were judged more Participants


socially desirable than unattractive individuals. The 79 participants in this study consisted of Caucasian
Many researchers investigating the physical at- and African American female college students aged 18 to
tractiveness stereotype have come to the conclusion that 28 years. Of the 79 participants, 45 were Caucasian and
people often believe ‘‘what is beautiful is good.’’13 Many 34 were African American. Of the female participants,
of the basic findings conclude that individuals who the mean age was 21.42 years. Students received extra
possess attractive facial characteristics are found to be credit for their participation.
more favorable than those with lesser attractiveness.
However, very little research has been conducted to
explore the role skin color may have in attributions of Procedure
physical attractiveness. The current study was conducted Participants were told that the purpose of the experiment
to determine how influential the role of race is in was to help a local advertising agency select the right
perceptions of physical attractiveness. In this study, 79 endorser for an upcoming advertising health campaign
subjects were asked to evaluate images of potential about exercise and nutrition. They were told that the
endorsers to be used in an upcoming advertising cam- campaign would be aimed at young women ages 18 to
paign. The images were those of females of varying skin 25. Each participant was given a consent form, a rating
tones. Data were then collected and analyzed to deter- sheet (for data collection), and a booklet containing four
mine whether skin tone and level of skin color can in fact headshots of a female actor or model. The booklet also
influence the physical attractiveness stereotype. contained the supposed advertising copy that was to be

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used in the campaign. The advertising copy was used to
impede hypothesis guessing.
Conceptualization The rating sheet was used to collect demographic
Several racial and ethnic studies scholars have agreed information such as age, gender, and ethnicity as well as
upon definitions for studies in racial and ethnic studies. the participants’ ratings of each image’s physical attrac-
Skin tone is defined in the same manner as Keenan3 did tiveness. No traceable information (i.e., name, social
in his study. Taking standards from the beauty industry, security number, student number) was collected. To
skin tone and color categories are established based on ensure that other confounds—such as products’ brand
skin color tones described previously. names, etc.—were not introduced into the experiment,
Ethnicity in this study is determined by responses four pictures of physically attractive women were iden-
to the demographic information included in the exper- tified and used for experimentation.
imental survey. African American participants are iden- Adobe Photoshop was used to change the level of
tified by indicating their ethnicity as African American, skin tone for the four models. Skin color was the only
Hispanic participants as Hispanic, and so forth. Those feature manipulated for each model. The designer was
who identify themselves as white or Caucasian are able to use the same picture and, with the help of
classified in the same racial group. technology, manipulated the skin color, leaving facial
features exactly the same. Images were selected from
magazines based on ratings of attractiveness from 20
METHOD independent males and females prior to the study. Images
were rated on a scale of 1 to 20 as to how attractive they
Measurements were perceived to be by participants. Four images were
The independent variable, skin tone, serves as a predictor then selected on the basis of attractiveness ratings.
for the dependant variables of attractiveness and credi- As the participants viewed the images in the
bility. Specifically, the research is based on survey design. booklet, they were asked to complete the information
A photograph of four people was adjusted to three on the data collection sheet. The data collection sheet
different levels of darkness in their skin tone by com- consisted of the endorser credibility and attractiveness
puter software (Adobe Photoshop). Therefore, a total of scale. After all the information had been completed and
12 images were created (e.g., four models  three differ- collected, the subjects were debriefed concerning the real
ent shades/skin tones). Participants were randomly as- purpose of the study. The initial results collected from
signed to one of three conditions and were asked the the data indicate significant effects of skin tone and its
same set of questions for the four different pictures. The affect on the physical attractiveness stereotype (p < .05).
order of the photographs shown varies: most dark skin
tone, normal tone, and finally lighter tone. By randomly
assigning participants to conditions and showing differ- RESULTS
ent faces in the same experimental condition, it was The results were obtained by running a 3 (skin tone:
determined that physical fetishes would not be a factor light, medium, dark skin)  2 (participant ethnicity:
that might influence or confound the final results. Caucasian. African American) factorial analysis of
178 FACIAL PLASTIC SURGERY/VOLUME 22, NUMBER 3 2006

Table 1 The Influence of Level of Skin Color on individual on the basis of physical attractiveness and
Perceptions of Beauty credibility, participants in this study found light brown
Skin Tone Caucasians African Americans models more credible and more attractive than their
n ¼ 79 n ¼ 45 n ¼ 34 counterparts with darker skin.
Pale complexion 3.4 n ¼ 16 3.1 n ¼ 10
Light brown 4.4 n ¼ 15 4.7 n ¼ 12
Dark brown 2.9 n ¼ 14 3.9 n ¼ 12 DISCUSSION
Levels of attractiveness appear to play a significant role
Note: Attractiveness scale 1 ¼ very unattractive, 5 ¼ very attractive.
Numbers in table represent mean scores for participants’ percep- in how we attribute certain characteristics to certain
tions of the models’ level of physical attractiveness. people. More attractive individuals are more likely to
be ascribed positive characteristics; whereas less attrac-
Table 2 ANOVA Results for Skin Color and Perceptions tive individuals are more likely to be ascribed negative
of Physical Attractiveness/Facial Beauty ones. However, no differences were seen when race was
Dependent Variable Skin Color Mean F p Value included. This may suggest that, at least with women,
race is less important than attractiveness level.
Physical attractiveness Pale 3.2a 21.8 .0001
Since the mid-1960s, many advertisers have been
Light brown 4.5b
in a dilemma regarding the use of blacks in advertise-
Dark brown 3.4a
ments. Many advertisers considered using blacks in
Note: All ratings were made on Likert scales (ranging from 1 ¼ low to advertisements to appeal to a growing black target

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5 ¼ high); higher numbers indicate greater perceptions of the
model’s attractiveness. Figures in the same column that do not audience and market but were concerned that use of
share the same subscript differ at p < .0001. ANOVA degrees of blacks might alienate white consumers. Fortunately for
freedom ¼ 5/78.
advertisers and advertising agencies, research shows that
white consumers react to black models in advertisements
variance (ANOVA) with an a level of 0.05, using in almost exactly the same way as black consumers
SPSS running on a Mac. There was a significant effect react.13
of skin tone, F(5,41) ¼ 7.33, p < .05. Published studies have measured both white
and black consumers’ reactions to black models fea-
tured in advertisements. The studies have been con-
Hypothesis Tests ducted using different media and different products
Hypothesis 1 tested the idea that lighter skinned models and they have measured both attitudes and sales
would positively affect perceptions of beauty. To test this figures. The studies usually consist of creating iden-
hypothesis, a multiple ANOVA was conducted with tical advertisements—one version with white models
skin color and participant ethnicity as between-subjects and another with black models. Advertisements are
factors and perceptions of physical attractiveness as the shown to groups of consumers who are asked how
dependent variable (Tables 1 and 2). they ‘‘feel’’ toward the advertisement. These attitude
scores are then compared to determine how consum-
ers respond to the models.
Attractiveness of the Image Even though African American models have
A multivariate analysis of variance (MANOVA) was more of a presence in magazines geared toward the
conducted on the attractiveness dependent variable. majority, most (nearly all) of the models are lighter
Participants were asked to indicate the attractiveness of skinned with Eurocentric features.3,4 Surprisingly, this
the image. The response scale ranged from 1 ¼ very stereotypical view of African Americans was also de-
unattractive to 5 ¼ very attractive. Overall, participants picted in the black magazines, Essence and Ebony. The
found the light brown images to be more attractive Eurocentric standards of beauty, particularly the skin
(n ¼ 78, M ¼ 4.5, SD ¼ 0.68) than the other manipu- color standard, are still widespread in the United States,
lated skin tones. and advertising continues to display them.
Results show an overall main effect of skin tone, The findings of this study should be evaluated in
suggesting that light brown skin color is perceived by the context in which the data were elicited. This study
both Caucasian and African American models as more represents a media effects experiment involving manip-
credible and attractive than models who are pale and ulations of skin tone. This was not an experiment on the
dark skinned, F(2,71) ¼ 14.7, p < .0001. Consistent effects of the creative concept of an advertisement or the
with earlier theorizing, images of light brown models message strategy or execution; if so, the stimuli would
yielded more favorable responses than images featuring have included copy, a headline, a product or service, and
dark skinned or pale models, F ¼ 18.70, p < .01. Con- other information. Had this information been included,
sistent with the proposed relationships stated in hypoth- the findings may have been different. The respondents in
esis 1, when the participants were asked to evaluate an this study were potential consumers in a laboratory
SHADES OF BEAUTY/FRISBY 179

environment. The results presented here show that, in a 6. Kurtz H. Time’s ‘sinister’ Simpson; cover photo was
laboratory environment, held biases toward light brown computer enhanced. The Washington Post: June 22, 1994,
skin did influence interpretations about and ratings of Style, p. D1
7. Ducille A. Skin Trade. Cambridge, MA: Harvard University
the models’ level of attractiveness.
Press; 1996
8. Neal AM, Wilson ML. The role of skin color and features in
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