JIGGLYPUFF PATTERN

DIFFICULTY: INTERMEDIATE ●●○

Introduction
This pattern will show you how to create the Pokémon Jigglypuff in
amigurumi form [see Image 1]. Jigglypuff measures six inches tall,
however, the final size of your amigurumi may vary depending on the
crochet hook size, weight yarn, and how tight your stitch work is. The
materials I used are listed below. Finally, all I ask is that you do not
sell or redistribute the pattern, but you are free to sell whatever cre-
ations you make using this pattern.
Materials
 5.5 mm Crochet Hook
 Vanna’s Choice Yarn—Pink (≈1 skein)
 Vanna’s Choice Yarn—Black (<1 skein)
 Vanna’s Choice Yarn—White (<1 skein)
 Red Heart Super Saver Economy Yarn—Real Teal (<1 skein) Image 1: The completed Jigglypuff in all of its glory.
 Poly-fil
 Yarn Needle
 Scissors
Terminology
Magic ring—Method for starting amigurumi in the round
sc—single crochet
ch—chain
inc—increase (add one stitch)
dec—decrease (remove one stitch)
(A) x B—Repeat A, B times
[X]—Total number of stitches for the round/row
pr x—partial row starting at stitch x**
** “pr x” is my own terminology and will be better explained in the sections of
the pattern where it is used
Image 2: Jigglypuff’s body.

Body
Jigglypuff’s body is one of the easiest pieces to crochet for this pattern, however, it is one of the most time
consuming simply due to its size. Once you finish crocheting the body, stuff it full of Poly-fil and close it up.
Once closed up, it should look similar to Image 2.
1) Magic ring 6 [6] 18) sc 14, inc, (sc 27, inc) x 2, sc 14 [88]
2) (inc) x 6 [12] 19) (sc 43, inc) x 2 [90]
3) (inc, sc 1) x 5, inc, inc [19] 20) sc 20, inc, sc 69 [91]
4) (inc, sc 2) x 6, sc 1 [25] 21) sc 3, inc, sc 44, inc, sc 42 [93]
5) sc 1, (inc, sc 3) x 6 [31] 22) sc 92, inc [94]
6) sc 3, (inc, sc 4) x 5, inc, sc 2 [37] 23) sc 94 [94]
7) sc 6, (inc, sc 7, inc, sc 6) x 2, inc [42] 24) sc 94 [94]
8) sc 3, inc, (sc 6, inc) x 5, sc 3 [48] 25) sc 94 [94]
9) sc 5, inc, (sc 8, inc, sc 9, inc) x 2, sc 4 [53] 26) dec, sc 92 [93]
10) sc 8, inc, (sc 9, inc, sc 10, inc) x 2, sc 2 [58] 27) sc 42, dec, sc 44, dec, sc 3 [91]
11) sc 3, inc, (sc 10, inc, sc 11, inc) x 2, sc 8 [63] 28) sc 69, dec, sc 20 [90]
12) (sc 12, inc, sc 11, inc) x 2, sc 12, inc [68] 29) (dec, sc 43) x 2 [88]
13) sc 6, inc, (sc 16, inc) x 3, sc 10 [72] 30) sc 14, (dec, sc 27) x 2, dec, sc 14 [85]
14) sc 11, inc, (sc 17, inc) x 3, sc 6 [76] 31) sc 21, (dec, sc 26) x 2, dec, sc 6 [82]
Body Pattern
15) sc 3, inc, (sc 24, inc) x 2, sc 22 [79] 32) sc 8, (dec, sc 25) x 2, dec, sc 18 [79] Continued on
16) sc 18, inc, (sc 25, inc) x 2, sc 8 [82] 33) sc 22, (dec, sc 24) x 2, dec, sc 3 [76] the next page
17) sc 6, inc, (sc 26, inc) x 2, sc 21 [85] 34) sc 6, (dec, sc 17) x 3, dec, sc 11 [72] →

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DIFFICULTY: INTERMEDIATE ●●○

Body Continued
35) sc 10, (dec, sc 16) x 3, dec, sc 6 [68] 41) dec, (sc 6, dec, sc 7, dec) x 2, sc 6 [37]
36) dec, sc 12, (dec, sc 11, dec, sc 12) x 2 [63] 42) sc 2, dec, (sc 4, dec) x 5, sc 3 [31]
37) sc 8, (dec, sc 11, dec, sc 10) x 2, dec, sc 3 [58] 43) (sc 3, dec) x 6, sc 1 [25]
38) sc 2, (dec, sc 10, dec, sc 9) x 2, dec, sc 8 [53] 44) sc 1, (sc 2, dec) x 6 [19]
39) sc 4, (dec, sc 9, dec, sc 8) x 2, dec, sc 5 [48] 45) dec, dec, (sc 1, dec) x 5 [12]
40) sc 3, (dec, sc 6) x 5, dec, sc 3 [42] 46) (dec) x 6 [6]

Eyes
Each eye is made up of three circles: the sclera (large white circle), the iris (teal cir-
cle), and the highlight (small white circle). The circles are stacked on each other and
then stitched to the body. You will need to make 2 eyes total (six circles total). Once
finished and attached to the body, your amigurumi should look like Image 3.
Sclera—White Iris—Teal Highlight
1) Magic ring 6 [6] 1) Magic ring 6 [6] 1) Magic ring 6 [6]
2) (inc) x 6 [12] 2) (inc) x 6 [12]
Image 3: Jigglypuff’s body with eyes. 3) (inc, sc 1) x 6 [18] 3) (inc, sc 1) x 6 [18]
4) (sc 1, inc, sc 1) x 6 [24] 4) (sc 1, inc, sc 1) x 6 [24]
5) (sc 3, inc) x 6 [30]

Image 4: Finished Inner and Outer
ear pieces.
Image 5: Joining the two pieces
together.
Ears
Each ear is made up of two triangles: the outer ear (pink) and the inner ear (black).
Neither of these pieces will be crocheted in the round. Instead the piece will be
turned at the end of each row. Once both triangles are finished (as seen in Image 4),
the two will be crocheted together along the two side edges by first inserting the
crochet hook through a hole along the edge of the inner ear and then through the
corresponding hole along the edge in the outer ear and pulling the yarn through
both (as seen in Image 5) and continuing along the 2 edges. **Note** Do not cro-
chet the two triangles together along the initial chained edge, this needs to stay
open for the ears to maintain the proper shape. Also, once the two pieces are cro-
cheted together, if the black yarn is showing through under the pink, then use your
needle to thread some pink yarn between the stitches to hide the black as seen in
Image 6. Once the ears are completed they can be attached to the body and some
Poly-fil can be used to stuff them (Image 7).
Inner Ear—Black Outer Ear—Pink
1) ch 7 [6] 1) ch 13 [12]
2) sc in second ch, sc 5, ch 1, turn [6] 2) sc in second ch, sc 11, ch 1, turn [12]
3) dec, sc 4, ch 1, turn [5] 3) dec, sc 3, dec, sc 3, dec, ch 1, turn [9]
4) dec, sc 3, ch 1, turn [4] 4) dec, sc 1, dec, sc 2, dec, ch 1, turn [6]
5) dec, sc 2 [3] 5) (dec) x 3 [3]

Image 6: Threading pink yarn to Image 7:

hide any black showing through. Jigglypuff with its
ears attached.

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 JIGGLYPUFF PATTERN
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Feet
Each foot is made in the round. Just follow the pattern, stuff with Poly-fil, and close up once complete. Refer-
ence Image 1 for foot placement if you want Jigglypuff to be in a sitting position. Otherwise feel free to place
the feet however you’d like for your creation. **Note** there should be a flatter spot on the foot which is
the bottom of the foot.**
1) Magic ring 7 [7] 8) sc 17 [17]
2) inc, (inc, sc 1) x 3 [11] 9) dec, sc 9, inc, sc 5 [17]
3) inc, sc 1, inc, sc 4, inc, sc 3 [14] 10) sc 9, dec, sc 6 [16]
4) inc, sc 13 [15] 11) sc 12, dec, sc 2 [15]
5) sc 8, inc, sc 3, inc, sc 2 [17] 12) sc 4, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 4 [13]
6) sc 17 [17] 13) dec, sc 6, dec, sc 3 [11]
7) sc 5, inc, sc 4, dec, sc 5 [17] 14) (dec) x 4, sc 1, dec [6]

Arms
Each arm is made in the round and will consist of a few partial rows. What this means is that when you come
across the following in the pattern for the arms:
3) sc 3, inc, sc 4 [9]
4) pr 2: sc 2, inc, sc 3 [7]
5) pr 2: sc 5 [5]
Once you complete the third round, instead of continuing in the round, you’ll tie off your current strand of
yarn and start a new one. The new strand will be started in the second stitch of the previous row and will on-
ly be crocheted into six of the nine stitches existing in the work before being tied off. Then a new strand will
be started in the second stitch of the 7 new stiches and be worked into only 5 of the stitches before being
tied off. Image 8 shows the finished arm with different colors representing the various strands that are used.
Once complete, give the arm a clean edge (crochet once around the outer edge, for the arms there should be
10 stitches total, one for each stitch), stuff with Poly-fill, and attach to the body. Reference Image 1 for arm
placement if you want Jigglypuff to be similar to the one in the picture. Otherwise feel free to place the arms
however you’d like for your creation.
1) Magic ring 5 [5]
2) (inc, sc 1) x 2, inc [8]
3) sc 3, inc, sc 4 [9]
4) pr 2: sc 2, inc, sc 3 [7]
5) pr 2: sc 5 [5]
6) pr 2: sc 3 [3]
7) Add clean edge

Image 8: Two views of an arm. Pink corresponds to rows 1-3, teal is row 4,
white is row 5, yellow is row 6, and by crocheting with the orange around
all the top stitches gives it a clean edge.
Poof
Jigglypuff’s poof can be by far the most difficult portion of this pattern, simply because the way it is con-
structed it doesn’t align with typical crochet techniques. As a result, Image 9 uses multiple colors similar to
Image 8 to help show how everything fits together. You’ll start off crocheting in the round. When you reach
the end of round 7, you won’t cut the strand of yarn you’re working with or tie off, but instead leave it alone
for the time being. Crochet row 8 (the first teal partial row in Image 9), and once done with row 8, cut the
strand and tie it off; then go back to the stitch you left alone at the end of row 7 and start crocheting row 9.
One way to look at it is that you’re just making four stitches in row 7 taller (while adding 2 more stitches) to
help with the curvature of the poof. This will be the same technique for all 4 teal partial rows (rows 8, 10, 14,
and 16).
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Poof Continued
Once row 20 is reached (the first yellow row), then you will no longer be fully crocheting in the round. In-
stead it is partial rows until the end. It is important that for rows 20 to 34 that you are starting a new strand
for every row instead of turning the piece over. The reason for this is you need to maintain the same stitch
texture with the rest of the piece whereas turning it would have the poof not match the rest of the body (the
reason we didn’t do this with the ears is that they are too small for anyone to notice).
After completing row 34, add a clean edge to the entire unfinished edge. This will be the edge where the
poof is attached to the body. In addition, use a small segment of yarn to pinch the poof together in the front
as seen in Image 10 and tie it tight so it will look like Image 11. Do the same for the back as seen in Image 12
and tie it tight to look like Image 13. Once complete, stuff the poof with Poly-fil and attach it to Jigglypuff,
making sure the edge is tucked under the poof to give it a rounder shape.
1) Magic ring 6 [6] 19) sc 3, inc, sc 8, inc, sc 5 [20]
2) (inc) x 5, sc 1 [11] 20) pr 3: sc 18 [18]
3) (sc 2, inc) x 3, sc 1, inc [15] 21) pr 1: sc 8, inc, sc 9 [19]
4) sc 3, inc, sc 7, inc, sc 3 [17] 22) pr 1: sc 4, inc, sc 14 [20]
5) sc 8, dec, sc 7 [16] 23) pr 1: sc 20 [20]
6) dec, sc 3, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 3 [13] 24) pr 1: sc 20 [20]
7) dec, sc 1, dec, dec, sc 1, dec, sc 1, dec [8] 25) pr 1: sc 20 [20]
8) pr 3: inc, sc 2, inc [6] 26) pr 1: sc 8, dec, sc 10 [19]
9) sc 10 [10] 27) pr 1: sc 12, dec, sc 5 [18]
10) pr 4: sc 5 [5] 28) pr 1: sc 5, dec, sc 11 [17]
11) sc 10 [10] 29) pr 1: sc 4, dec, sc 5, dec, sc 4 [15]
12) sc 4, inc, sc 5 [11] 30) pr 1: sc 6, dec, sc 7 [14]
13) inc, sc 10 [12] 31) pr 1: sc 8, dec, sc 4 [13]
14) pr 6: sc 6 [6] 32) pr 1: sc 3, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 3 [11]
Image 9: The poof. The pink region is one contin-
15) sc 3, inc, sc 5, inc [14] 33) pr 1: sc 5, dec, sc 4 [10]
uous thread. The teal strands are partial rows.
16) pr 7: sc 7 [7] 34) pr 1: sc 2, dec, sc 2, dec, sc 2 [8]
The yellow and white more partial rows. The
17) sc 1, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 5 [16] 35) Add clean edge
orange is the clean edge/
18) sc 6, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 1 [18]

Image 10: Thread a segment of yarn Image 11: Poof once the threaded Image 12: Wrap a segment of yarn around Image 13: Once pulled tight the
through both sides of the poof to pull segment of yarn is tied tight. the eight end stitches like so. eight stitches should close up.
them closer.

Closing Thoughts
At this point your Jigglypuff should be complete and I hope you’ve had an enjoyable time creating it. Of
course you can always take it a step further and crochet a microphone or hat to give it a sense of style.
Patterns should always be a guide and open to interpretation so have some fun. At the same time though, I
hope my pattern has been easy to follow, if you have any questions feel free to contact me and I’ll try to help.
I’ll also update the pattern as needed if people keep having the same questions/issues. And like always, if you
create something based on my patterns feel free to send an image my way, I always like to see the results of
people using my patterns. Thanks for following along and stay tuned for the next pattern!

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