-I#97~

THE
THE

INTELLECTUAL OBSERVER:
INTELLECTUAL OBSERVER:

REVIEW
REVIEW OF
OF NATURAL
NATURAL HISTORY,
HISTORY,

MICROSCOPIC
MICROSCOPIC RESEARCH,
RESEARCH,

AND

RECREATIVE SCIENCE.
RECREATIVE SCIENCE.

VOLUME II.
VOLUME II.

ILLUSTRATED WITH
ILLUSTRATED PLATES IN
WITH PLATES AND TINTS,
COLOURS AND
IN COLOURS AND Humans
TINTS, AND NUMEROUS
ENGRAVINGS
ENGRAVINGS ON
ON WOOD.
WOOD.

LONDON:
LONDON:
GROOMBRIDGE AND
GROOMBRIDGE AND SONS,
SONS,
PATERNOSTER ROW.
PAI‘ERNOSTER ROW.
XDCCCLKUI.
UDCCCLXIII.
 CONTENTS.
CONTENTS.
—*—_

PICK
IAGI
BIBBAND
Ribband FishesFISRBs OP op TIIE
tiie GENUs
Genus GYIINETRUE.
Gtmnetrus. BY Br JONATHAN
Jonathan COUCH, Couch,
F. L. S. Will:
F.L.S. With aa Coloured
Coloured Plate
Plate and
and other
other Illutrati038..
Illustrations .11
Moss
Moss PABASITIS.
Parasites. BY By TIIE
the BEv.
Bet. MILER
Miles JOREBII
Joseph BERKELEY,
Beiikelet, M.A.,M.A., F.'LS.‘
F.L.S.
With
With Illustration
Illustrations .................................................................. 8
8
15 the
Is THE GIRAEER
Giraffe PROVIDED
provided WITH with MOREmore TIIAN
than Two Two HORNE?
Uorns? BY Br T.T.
SPENCER
Spencer COEROLD,
Cobbold, 11.0.,
M.D., F. L..S
F.L.S. W511:
With aa Tinted
Tinted Plate
Plate .................. 12 la
MINRTRELs
MrXSTRF.LS OF 0E THE
TIIE SUMMER.
SUIMER. BY Br SHIRLEY
SniRLEY HIBRERD
HlBBERD .................. 18
18
INSECT:
Insects INJURIOUs
Injurious To to TIIR
the ELI.
Elm. BY Br H.
H. NOEL
Noel HUHBRRRYE.
Humphreys. W505 With
Illutrat£038..
Illustrations 28
28
STAR
Star FINDING.
Finding. Wilhm With a3
an Illaxtrahou
Illustration ............. .. .............................. 36 36
DE
Be LA
la RIYE
Kite ON ox THE
the AURORA
Aurora BOREALIS
Bokealis ............................................. 38 38
CURIOUS
Curious ILLUSTRATION
Illustration OP of VEGETABLE
Vegetable MORPHOLOGY.
Morphology. BY By ROBERT
Bobert
GA 173317. With
Gausby. With an
an Illulration......................................
Illustration ............. 42
42
TEE
The NEW
>"ew METAL
Metal THALIJUM
Thallium . ................................... . .................... 43 43
ARTIEICIAL HALos
Artificial Halos 45
45
METEOROLOGICAL
Meteorological OBsERVATIONs
Observations AT at TIIE
the KEwKew OBSERVATORY
Observatory. BY” Br C. C.
CHAMBERS
Chambers ........................................................................ 46, 46, 292
292
TRANSIT
Transit or of TIII:
the SHADOW
Shadow 01v of TITAN—DOUBLE
Titan—Double STARR—THE
Stars—The MOON—OCCUL-
Moon— Occul-
TATIONs.
tations. BY Br THE
the REY.
Rkv. T. T. W.
W. WERE,
Webb, F. R.A.8. W515
F.B.A.S. With 013
an Illautration.
Illustration. 62 62
BIRDS
Birds OB of PARADIEB.
Paradise. BY Br '1‘.
T. W.W. WOOD,
Wood, F..Z 8. With
F.Z.S. With aa Coloured
Coloured .PIate..
Plate ... 69 69
A
A DREDGINO
Dredging EXCURsION.
Excursion. BY Br D.D. WALKER,
Walker, M..,D
M.D., F.L.
F.L.SS ..................... 73 73
THE
The SUNBIsn
Sunfish As as Aa HOST.
Dost. BY Br T.T. SPENCER
Spencer COBBOLD,
Cobbold, M.D.,
M.D., F. L.S .........
F.L.S 82
82
HONEY: its
Boney: 1T3 ORIGIN
Origin AND
and ADULTERATION.
Adulteration. BY Br W.
W. \V.
W. STODDART
Stoddart ......... 9O 90
ORIGIN
Omgin AND and TRANSFORMATION
Transformation or of ANIMALS
Animals ....................................... 95 95
CRRNICAL
Chemical MANUIACTURER
Manufactures As as ILLUSTRATED
Illustrated IN in TIIE
the EXHIBITION
Exhibition or of 1862.
1862.
BY
Br J. J. W.
W. M‘GAULEY
M'Gaulei- ............................................................... 108 108
TASTE
Tastk IN in ART
Art .......................................................................... 116 116
FOISONOUB
Poisonous CATERIILLARE.
Caterpillars. BY
Br 11.
D. NOEL
Noel HUIIRRREYR.
Humpiibets. With
With Illutratiom.
Illustrations. 124
124
Mm
>"ew PROCEss
Process OPof VINEGAR
Vinkoar MAKING
Making ................................................ 12S
128
OPPOSITION of
Opposition or Mars—
MARS—DOUBLE
Double STARs—OCCULTATIONs—TIIB
Stars—Occultations—The 00111213131! Comet. Br
TIIE REY.
the T. W.
Rev. T. W. WEBB,
Webb, F.....RA.S
F.R.A.S . 131
131
HYDRAULIC
Hydraulic ILLUSIONS.
Illusions. BYBy W.
W. B.B. TEGRTIIRIEE.
Teoetmeier. W51}; With Illmtratzom
Illustrations ... 140
140
A
A SUBNER AFTERNOON BY
Summer Afternoon by TIIE
the SEA.
Sea. TEE
The TOMOBTRRIC.
Tomopteris. BY By PHILIP
Philip
H.
U. Gosss,
Gosse, F.R.S.
F.R.S. W5”:
With (1a Tinted
Tinted Plate......................................
Plate 149
149
PHOTOGRAPIIIC
Photograph ic DELINEATIONE
Delineations OB of MICROSCOPIC
Microscopic ONIC‘IS.
Objects. BY By GEORGE
George
S. BRADY,
S. M.R.C.S ...............................................................
Brady, M.R.C.S. 158
158
ZOCLOGY of TIIR
Zoology OF Exhibition ....................................
International EXHIBITION
the INTERNATIONAL 160
160
Influence 0r
IEYLUENCB of MAss 0N TIIR
Mass on Production OE
the PRODUCTION Infubobia. BY
of INYUBORIA. By HENRY
Henry
Slack, F.
June SLACK,
James G.S..
F.G.S 166
186
Devil FISH
DEVIL Jamaica. BY
of JAIIAICA.
Fish or the HON.
Br THE Richard HILL.
Hon. BICIIARD With Ilium-aha»:
Hill. Will; Illustration*. 167
167
On an Inscribed Roman Tile Recently Found in Leicester. BY
ON AN INSCBIBED ROMAN TILE RECENTLY FOUND IN LEICESTER. By
THOMAS
Thomas WRIGIIT,
Whiout, F.S.A.
F.S.A. WithWith an an Illmtratiou
Illustration ........................... 177
177
Organization AND
ORGANIZATION and LIFE
Life 183
183
Bistory or
HISTORY Salmon .........' ......................................................
the SALIION
of TIIE 88
1188
T33 and ITs
Elm AND
Thb ELM Enemies. BY
Insect ENEMIES.
its INSECT Shirley HIRRRRD.
Bt SHIRLEY Hibberd 191
191
Splbanthes AUTUMNALIS. NEOTTIA
SEIRANTIIES Autumnalis. SBIRALIR, 0E
Neottia Spiralis, or LADIEs’ Tresses. BY
Ladies' T338538" By
L. Lane CLARKE.
L. LANE Illustrations .......................................
With Illu8trat£on8
Clarke. With 195
195
COMET II., 1862.
Comet 11., 1862. Bt Rev. T.
ran REY.
BY THE T. W. F.R.A.S. With
Webb, F.R.A.S.
W. WEBB, With IItratiom.
Illustrations. 198
198
OBSERVATIONS on
Odsehvations ON COMET 1862. BY
II., 1862.
Comet II., Hon. Mus.
the HON.
Br TEE Ward. With
Mrs. WARD. With aa
Coloured Plate and
Coloured Plate other Illmtratiom............
and other Illustrations .............................. 205
205
Iv
iv Contents.
Contents.
»aa
2A6!
APPEARANCE
Appearance OP
op COMET
Comet II.
II. AT
at PARIS.
Paws. NOTE
Note PROM
mom M.M. CHACORNAC
Chacoenac ......... 220
220
APPLICATION Dialysis To
op DIALYSIS
Application OP Preservation OP
the PRESERVATION
to THE Building STONES
op BUILDING Stones ... 224.
224
PEYSALIA
Pbysalia PELAGICA
Pelagica (THE
(The PORTUGUESE
Portuguese MAN-OP-WAR).
Man-of-Wab). BY
By H.
H. NOEL
Noel
Humphreys. With
HUMPHREYS. With aa Coloured Plate .........................................
Coloured Plate 233
233
Hints To
HINTS Beginners WITH
to BEGINNERS with THE Microscope. BY
tbe MICROSCOPE. By T. Rtmer JONES,
T. RYMER Jones,
F.R.S.
F.R.S ................................................................................. 243
THE
The FUNGUS
Funods FOOT
Foot OP op INDIA.
India. BY By THE
the REY.
Rev. M.M. J.J. BEREELEY,
Berkeley, M.A.,M.A, F.L.S.
F.L.S.
With
With Illuctratiom
Illustration* ................................................................... 24S
ON
On THE
the AURORA
Auuoba BOREALIS.
Boeealis. BY By DAVID
David WALKER,
Walker, M.D., M.D., F.L.S.
F.L.S 258
258
PLUCEER
Plucker onON SPECTRUM
Spectrum ANALYSIS
Analysis ................................................... 265
265
RESTING
Besting Egos, Statoblasts or
or, STATORLASTS
EGGS, OR, Pluhatella. BY
op Aa PLUMATELLA. IIenby J.
By HENRY J. SLACK,
Slack,
F. With a
G.8. With
F.G.S. Coloured Plate
a Coloured Plate 271
271
PICTET
Pictetonthe Method OP
ON THE METHOD Determining THE
of DETERMINING Age OP
the AGE Fossil GROUPS
ok FOSSIL Groups ... 275
275
Fossil HUMAN
FOSSIL Guadaloupk. BY
fbom GUADALOUPE.
Skeleton PROM
Human SKELETON By S. Woodward, F.
P. WOODWABD,
S. P. G.S.
F.G.S. 280
280
LINE in THE
Life IN Sea ..................................................................
DKhP SEA
the DEEP 284
284
MICROSCOPIC Engraving, AND
Writing, ENGRAYING,
Microscopic WRITING, Printing ...... . ...................
and PRINTING 298
298
Stars—Occultations—The EARTH
Double STARS—OCCULTATIONS—THE
DOURLE Earth IN Opposition. BY
in OPPOSITION. the REY.
By THE Rev.
T. W.
T. Webb, F.R.
W. WERE, A.S ....................................................... 299,
F.R.A.S 299, 370
370
FEATHERED
Feathered FOSSIL
Fossil PROM
from THE
the LITEOGRAPHIC
Lithographic LIMESTONE
Limestone OP of SOLENHOEEN.
Solenhofen.
BY HENRY
By Woodward, F.Z.S.
Henry WOODWARD, With aa Coloured
F.Z.S. With Plate ............... 313
Coloured Plate. 313
Origin OP
ORIGIN Infusoria ..............................................................
of INPUSORIA 320
320
THE WHIP WORM. BY
The Wnip-WORM. By T.T. SPENCER
Spencer CORROLD,
Cobbold, M.D.,
M.D., F.L.S.
F.L.S. WithWith aa Tinted
Tinted
Plate.
Plate ...... . .......................................................................... 325
Aspects OP
ASPECTS Nature IN
of NATURE Southern PERU.
in SOUTHERN Peru. BY By WILLIAM Bollaert.F.R.G.S. 331
William BOLLAERT,F.R.G.S. 331
SURMARINE
Submarine ARCHITECTURE.
Architecture. BY By SHIRLEY
Shirley HIEEERD.
Hibbeed. With With an
an Illustration.
Illustration. 339 339
EPEECTS
Effects OPof HASCIIISCH
Haschisch ON on M.M. ST.
St. LUCCA
Lucca ............... ...................... 346 846
CARPENTER
Carpenter ON on THE
the MICROSCOPE
Microscope ...................................................... 34-8 348
LASSELL
Lassell ON
on ANan ANNULAR
Annular NERULA
Nebula ................................................. 253 253
LEECH-LORE.
Leech-Lore. BY By THE
the REY.
Rev. W. W. HOUGHTON,
Houghton, M.A. M.A., F.L.S...
F.L.S 354
354
STRUCTURE
Stbuctube ANDand HAEITS
Habits OP PHYSALIA. BY
of Physalia. By G.
G. C.C. WALLICII,
Wallich, M.D.,M.D., F.L.St
F.L.S... 362 362
LAMONT‘S
Lamont's NEWNew THEORY
Theory OP of ATMOSPHERIC
Atmospheric VAPOUR.
Vapour. BY By ALEXANDER
Alexander S. S.
HERSOHEL,B.A..
Hersoiikl, B.A. ......................................... ... ... .. .. 368
368
HABITS
Habits OP
of THE
the AYE-AYE.
Aye-Aye. BY By W.W. B.
B. TEGETMEIER
Tegetmeieb ........ . ..................... 379 879
COMETS—AN
Comets—an ACCOUNT
Account OR op ALL
all THE
the COMETS
Comets WHOSE
whose ORRITS
Orbits HAVEhave NOT
not EEEN
been
CALCULATED.
Calculated. BY By G.G. CHAMBERS
Chambers .......................................... 380 380
FEET
Feet OP
of INSECTS.
Insects. BY L. LANE
By L. Lane CLARKE.
Clarke. WithWith aa Tinted
Tinted Plate.
Plate ............ 393 393
ECONOMIC
Economic PRODUCTION
Production OP of ARTIPICIAL
Artificial HEAT.
Heat. BY By J.J. W.
W. M‘GAULEY
M'Gauley ...... 398 898
QUETELET
Quetelet ON on THE
the ELECTRICITY
Electricity OP of THE
the AIR
Aik ....................................... 4-08
408
THE SEA LAMPREY.
The Sea Lamprey. BY By JONATHAN
Jonathan COUCH,
Couch, F.L.S.
F.L.S. WithWith aa Coloured
Coloured Plate
Plate 411411
MAGNIPICENT
Magnificent METEOR
Meteor SEENseen ON on THE
the 27TH
27th OPof NOVEMBER,
November, 1862. 18G2. BY Bi" E.E. J.
J.
LOWE,
Lowe, F.R...,AS
F.R.A.S., F...LS..
F.L.S 422
422
THE
The EYE
Eye AND
and THE
the MICROSCOPE.
Microscope. ”BY By HENRY
Henry J. J. SLACK,
Slack, F. G.S..
F.G.S 427
427
EXPERIENCES OP HASCHISCH. BY SHIRLEY HIRRERD .......................... 435
Experiences of Haschisch. By Shirley Hibberd 435
FLYING
Flying LIEARDS
Lizards OP of THE
the SECONDARY
Secondary ROCKS.
Rocks. BY By HENRY
Huxry WOODWARD,
Woodward,
F.Z.S.
F.Z.S. WithWith Illutratiom.........................................................
Illustrations 443
413
PERUVIAN
Peruvian BARKBark TREES
Treks AND and THEIR
their TRANSPLANTATION.
Transplantation. BY By BERTHOLD
Berthold
Seemann, F.L.S.,
SEEMANN. F.R.G.S ...................................................... 452
F.L.S., F.R.G.S. 452
THE
The MOON.
Moon. BYTHEBy the REV.
Rev. T. T. W.
W. WERE,
Webb, F.R.A.S.
F.R.A.S : .......... 461
461
PROCEEDINGS
Proceedings OP op LEARNED
Learned SOCIETIES
Societies ........................... 60,
60, 225,
225, 305,
305, 384,
381, 465
465
GLRANINGS
Gleanings PROM
from THEthe INTERNATIONAL
International EXHIBITION
Exhibition ..................... 64., 64, 14-3,
143, 226
226
NOTES
Notes AND
and MEMORANDA
Memoranda .................................... 66, 66, 146,
14C, 228,
228, 309,
309, 389,
389, 469
469
 Aspects
Aspects of
of Nature
Nature in
in Southern
Soutlumi Peru.
Peru. 331
331

sparent
sparent membrane
membrane is is seen
seen projecting,
projecting, in in the
the formform of of aa small
small
mamillary
mamillary process.
process. This This is is shown
shown at at fig.
fig. 8, where the
8, where the egg
egg also
also
exhibits
exhibits thethe yolk
yolk undergoing
undergoing segmentation,
segmentation, and and twotwo charac-
charac
teristic
teristic nuclei
nuclei in in the
the mesial
mesial line.line. WhenWhen fullyfully mature
mature the the ova
ova
have
have aa longitudinal
longitudinal diameter
diameter of of 1-340th
1 -340th to to 1-320th
1 -320th of of an
an inch.
inch.
Having
Having thus thus dwelt
dwelt at at considerable
considerable length length on on the
the intimate
intimate
structure
structure of of Trichocephalus
Trichocephalus afinis, affinis, itit only
only remains
remains for for us
us to
to offer
offer
aa few
few remarks
remarks on on the
the present
present statestate ofof our
our knowledge
knowledge respecting
respecting
the
the development
development and and migrations
migrations of of this
this comparatively
comparatively harmlessharmless
species.
species. In In point
point of of fact,
fact, we know little
we know little oror nothing
nothing of of the
the
wanderings of
wanderings of this
this particular
particular worm, worm, but but may may legitimately
legitimately
infer the
infer the occurrence
occurrence of of certain
certain habits
habits from
from whatwhat we observe in
we observe in
the closely allied
the closely allied Trichocephalus
Trichocephalus dispar. dispar. Not Not long
long agoago Kuchen-
Kuchen-
meister expressed
meister expressed his his opinion,
opinion, somewhat
somewhat over over confidently,
confidently, that that
the little
the little Trichina
Tricllina spiralis
SJfiTCLl’ts found
found in in the
the muscles
muscles of of the
the human
human
body was
body was the
the young
young of of the
the last
last named
named species
species ;; but but aa series
series of of
beautiful researches
beautiful researches by by Virchow
Virchow and and Leuckart,
Leuckart, carriedcarried on on in
in-
dependently, have
dependently, have shown
shown that that this
this view
view is is inconsistent
inconsistent with with fact.
fact.
M. Davaine
M. Davaine has has also
also recently
recently applied
applied himself
himself to to the
the determina
determina-
tion of
tion of the development of
the development of T.
T. dispar
dispar by by direct
direct experiment,
experiment, and and
he finds that
he finds that the embryonic formation
the embryonic formation only takes place
only takes place within
within
the
the egg
egg after
after thethe ovaova have
have beenbeen expelled
expelled the the host,
host, and
and have
have
been
been immersed
immersed in in water
water for for aa period
period of of about
about six six months
months;3
consequently
consequently it it may
may be bo surmised
surmised thatthat either
either thethe mature
mature ova ova oror
the escaped
the escaped embryos
embryos gain gain access
access to to our
our bodies
bodies in in aa passive
passive
manner
manner when when swallowed
swallowed with with the
the waters
waters we we drink.
drink. The The subject,
subject,
however,
however, needs needs further
further investigation,
investigation, and and the the experiments
experiments
which
which we we ourselves
ourselves instituted
instituted on on this
this score
score have
have hitherto
hitherto onlyonly
produced
produced negative
negative results.
results.

ASPECTS
ASPECTS OF
OF NATURE
NATURE IN
IN SOUTHERN
SOUTHERN PERU.
PERU.
BY WILLIAM
BY BOLLAERT, F.R.G.8.
WILLIAM BOLLAKRT, F.E.G.S.

In order to
IN order points of
some points
illustrate some
to illustrate physical geography,
of physical geography,
II intend
intend toto take
take the reader to
the reader to Peru,
Peru, by by the
the same
samo route
route
by
by which
which II went, namely, from
went, namely, from England round Cape
England round Cape Horn,
Horn,
sighting its
sighting its coast
coast off
off Arica,
Arica, in latitude 18'
in latitudo 18’ 20' south. II had
20' south. had
experienced
experienced everyevery species
species of temperature and
of temperature and weather—the
weather—the
cold of
cold of aa northern
northern winter,
winter, the
the burning,
burning, blistering
blistering heat
heat in
in the
the
long calms
long calms ofof the
the equatorial
equatorial regions,
regions, thethe frozen
frozen seas
seas off
03 Capo
Cape
Horn;; and
Horn and one
one series
series ofof S.W.
SW. gales gales lasted
lasted several
several weeks,
weeks,
which
which drove us far
drove us SE. with
the S.E.
to the
far to thick and
with thick weather,
heavy weather,
and heavy
so that
so that when
when wewe wont
went on on tho
the starboard
starboard tack,
tack, trusting
trusting toto clear
clear
Cape Horn,
Cajie Hem, on on aa certain
certain night
night we we got
got landlocked,
landlocked, aa little
little to
to
332
332 Aspects of
Aspect: Nature in
of Nature Southern Peru.
in Southern Pern.

the west
the west of cape, on
the cape,
of the on an iron-bound and
an iron-bound savage shore,
and savage shore, andand
within an
within ace of
an ace of being wrecked there.
being wrecked However, although
there. However, although our our
captain had
captain had toldtold us us to prepare for
to prepare for the worst, kind
the worst, kind providmce
providence
and good
and seamanship rescued
good seamanship rescued us us from
from ourour perilous situation, and
perilous situation, and
the
the following morning we
following morning we slid past the
slid past island of
the island Cape Horn
of Cape Horn
Nassau Bay,
into Nassau
into Bay, wherewhere we took in
we took wood and
in wood water. Here
and water. Here
found large
we found
we quantities of
large quantities celery gone
of celery gone to seed (originally
to seed (originally
left by
lefi voyagers), which
early voyagers),
by early which was addition to
pleasant addition
was aa pleasant to our
our
peasoup.
peasoup.
made the
II made acquaintance here,
the acquaintance here, for first time,
the first
for the with the
time, with the
Red- Men of
Red-Men America ; they
of America; they were called on
were called on our charts the
our charts the RedRed
and
and Black
Black Magellans,
Magellans, for for asas yet
yet they
they hadhad notnot been
been christened
christened
as
as Fuegians.
Fuegians. II suspect suspect they they hadhad been
been called
called red red andand black
black
in
in consequence
consequence of of their
their using
using red red (oxide
(oxide of of iron)
iron) and and black
black
(charcoal)
(charcoal) paintpaint to to their
their almost
almost nakednaked bodies.
bodies. These These miserable-
miserable-
looking
looking creatures,
creatures, although
although pure pure red-men,
red-men, had had aa dark dark tinge,
tinge,
which
which II then then attributed
attributed to to dirt
dirt and
and thethe cold
cold climate.
climate.
At
At last
last wewe getget aa favourable
favourable slant, slant, runnin
running into into the
the South
South
Pacific
Pacific Ocean,
Ocean, makinmaking aa fair fair wind
wind of of the
the S. S.W.. gales
gales common
common
in
in these
these latitudes,
latitudes, which which soon soon carried
carried us us into
into warm,
warm, and and thenthen
into
into hothot weather.
weather.
Our
Our latitude
latitude and and longitude
longitude tell tell usus wewe are are approaching
approaching
Juan
Juan Fernandez,
Fernandez, or or Robinson
Robinson Crusoe’sCrusoe's island;
island ; we we sight
sight it, it,
continuing
continuing our our course
course to to the
the north,
north, inclining
inclining aa little
little to to the
the east;
east ;
till
till one
one evenings
evening a white white elevation
elevation is is seen
seen in in the
the eastern
eastern horizon;
horizon ;
at
at daybreak,
daybreak, more more whitewhite points
points are are observed,
observed, and and on on the
the follow-
follow
ing
ing dayday thethe mountains
mountains of of the
the coast
coast areare beheld,
beheld, and and thethe next
uext
morning
morning we we approach
approach the the shore
shore of of Arica.
Arica.
As we
As we neared
neared the the coast, dark, and
high, dark,
coast, aa high, escarped range
and escarped range of of
mountains
mountains rose rose abruptly
abruptly from from aa placid
placid seasea;; butbut when
when the the swell
swell
found
found opposition
opposition to to its
its onward
onward coursecourse in in the rocky barrier,
the rocky barrier, it it
dashed against
dashed against it it sullenly,
sullenly, with with aa thundering
thundering noise, noise, rising high
rising high
up, curling
up, curling round
round towards,
towards, and and falling
falling into,
into, itsits native
native element,
element,
and spreading
and spreading itselfitself in in rugged
rugged sheetssheets of of foam
foam with with aa hissing
hissing
sound. Ere
sound. Ere it had died
it had died away,
away, there
there waswas aa repetition
repetition of of the
the
scene and
sceno and sounds,
sounds, that that hadhad something
something solemnsolemn in in them,
them, added
added
to which
to which not the slightest
not the slightest vegetation
vegetation was was toto bebe seen.
seen.
We next
We next came
came in in sight
sight of of the
the “" Morro,”
Morro," or or headland
headland of of Arica,
Arica,
where
where this this same
same picture
picture of of desolation
desolation presented
presented itself. itself. Yes,Yes, II
am
am notnot ashamed
ashamed to to confess
confess it, my heart
it, my heart sanksank within
within me; me ; butbut
there
there II was,
was, andand therethere II had had to to remain
remain for for awhile.
awhile. II was was tootoo
young
young then then to to suppose
suppose that that II should
should everever find find the
the least
least charm
charm
in
in aa desert
desert life.
life. It It cost
cost me me aa few
few silent
silent tears,
tears, andand it it was
was some
some
time
time before
before II could
could realize
realize my my situation.
situation.
Here
Here II met met with with the gentleman with
the gentleman with whomwhom II was was to to be
be
associated
associated in in working
working some some silver
silver mines
mines at at Huantajaya,
Huantajaya, in in the
the
neighbouring
neighbouring province province of of Tarapaca;
Tarapacu; he he was
was thenthen and and still
still is
is
 Aspects
Aspects of
of Nature in Southem
Nature in Southern Peru.
Peru. 333
333

known
known as Don Jorge,
as Don Jorge, beloved
beloved by
by all
all who
who knew
knew him.
him. He
He had
had
got
got used
used to to these
these scenes,
scenes, andand his
his not
not quite
quite soso lively
lively anan organi-
organi
zation
zation as as my own, had
my own, had caused
caused himhim to to feel less in
feel less in comparing
comparing the the
lively verdure of
lovely verdure England with
of England with this
this darkdark frowning
frowning and and desert
desert
sshore.
ore.
II geologized,
geologized, II dug dug intointo ancient
ancient IndianIndian tombs,
tombs, examined
examined
with
with wonder
wonder the the desiccated
desiccated bodies
bodies of of the
the children
children of of the
the sun,
sun,
the
the clothing
clothing of of the
the dead,
dead, thethe gold,
gold, silver,
silver, andand copper
copper figures
figures of of
deities,
deities, wonderfully-moulded
wonderfully-moulded pottery, pottery, and and many
many other
other things;
things ;
II botanized
botanized in in thethe valley
valley ofof Arica—for
Arica—for II found tropical plants
found tropical plants
growing
growing in in the
the bedbed of of the
the river;
river ; II crossed
crossed the the sandy
sandy desert
desert to to
Tacna,
Tacna, botanized
botanized up its valley
up its valley to to thethe base
base ofof the
the Cordillera,
Cordillera,
taking
taking note note of of its
its wondrous
wondrous elevation.
elevation. II looked looked at at and
and ex-ex
amined
amined the the Indian
Indian of of this
this locality,
locality, he he was
was notnot the
the character
character II
had
had pictured
pictured to to myself;
myself ; no, no, the three centuries
the three centuries of of submission
submission
to
to the
the Spanish
Spanish rulers rulers hadhad given
given eveneven the the young
young man man an an old
old
and
and downcast
downcast look. look. II could could scarcely
scarcely believe
believe thatthat these
these were
were
the descendants
the descendants of of those
those who who had had conquered
conquered for for the
the Incas
Incas
so much of
so much of the
the length
length and and breadth
breadth of this land.
of this land. If the
If the
country II was
coufitry was in uncheering, the
was uncheering,
in was Indian was
the Indian was in in conformity
conformity
wit
with it. it.
The
The present
present Peruanos
Peruanos are are criollos,
criollos, or descendants of
or descendants of Spanish
Spanish
parents;
parents ; the the mestizos
mestizos are are of
of the
the Spaniard
Spaniard and and Indian
Indian female,
female,
the
the great
great majority
majority being being aa mixed
mixed people,
people, but but II found
found themthem all all
kind
kind and and hospitable.
hospitable.
My
My friend
friend Don Don Jorge
Jorge had had toto remain
remain awhile
awhile in in Arica
Arica whilst
whilst
II proceeded
proceeded to to Iquique,
Iquique, the the port
port of of the
the silver
silver mines
mines of of
Huantajaya.
Huantajaya. It It waswas manymany years
years later later that
that steamers
steamers were were
found
found plying
plying along
along the the coast
coast from
from Panama
Panama to to Valparaiso
Valparaiso ;; but but
the voyage from
the voyage Iquique to
from Iquique Arica was
to Arica was not difficult, in
not difficult, in con-
con
sequence of
sequence of the pretty general
the pretty southerly winds
general southerly winds and and southerly
southerly
current
current ;* j* it
it could
could eveneven be be made
made in in anan open
open boat
boat oror aa seal-skin
seal-skin
balsa
baha or or float,
float, and
and the the only
only little
little difficulty
difficulty likely
likely toto occur
occur waswas
an upset by
an upset school of
by aa “" school whales," that
of whales,” come in
that come shore at
in shore at certain
certain
times of
times of the year. The
the year. return, if
The return, if by boat, was
by boat, made during
was made during
the
the night
night whenwhen the the strong
strong south
south wind wind had had gone
gone down,
down, and and
what
what remained
remained had had veered
veered to to the
the eastward—this
eastward—this being being the the
terral
temil or or land
land breeze;
breeze ; anchorage
anchorage was was found
found in in some
some caleta,
caleta, or or
cove,
cove, during
during the the greater
greater partpart of
of the
the day.day.
At
At the beginning of
the beginning of 1826, embarked on
1826, I1 embarked board the
on board the balandra
balandra
Miguel," for
"San Miguel,”
“San for Iquique, mining and
with mining
Iquique, with other implements.
and other implements.

' sometimes called

This isis sometimes
* This Humboldt's current.”
called “" Humboldt’s current." In 1854, the
September, 1854-,
In September, the
“" Guise,” man-of-war, during
Peruvian man-of-war,
Guise," Peruvian of twelve
calm of
during aa calm twelve hours, drifted fifteen
wus drifted
hours, was fifteen
miles
miles to the N.W.;
to the so when
N.W. ; so sailing vessels
when sailing vessels get to leeward
et to port hereabouts,
of aa port
leeward of hereabouts,
they
they may
may be
be several
several days
days fetching
fetching into
into their estination.
their deitination. _
On my last
On my voyage to
hut voyage Europe in
to Europe sailing vessel,
in aa sailing on aa S.S.W.
vessel, on the thud
course, the
S.S.W. course, third
day from
day Arica, we
from Ariea, got out
we got of the
out of cool water
the cool of this
water of into warmer.
current, into
this current, warmer.
 334
33t Aspects
Agpects qatum
of Nature in
in Southern
Southern Peru.
Peru.

This
This vessel
vessel was was aa small
small and and rudely
rudely constructed
constructed sloop sloop anployed
employed
in
in the
the guano
guano tradetrade thenthen carried
carried on for the
on for the use
use of
of the
the coast
coast only.
only.
Her
Her trips
trips werewere from from the the guano
guano deposit
deposit of of Pavellon
Pavellon de de Pica,
Pica,
south of
south Iquique, to
of Iquique, Arica and
to Arica ports to
other ports
and other the north.
to the north.
Since
Since thatthat period
period II have have learnt
learnt notnot toto bebe over-squeamish;
over-squeamish;
but what II suffered
but what sufi'ered from from the the sickening
sickening guano stench of
guano stench the
of the
“ San
" San Miguel,”
Miguel," II have have aa very
very vivid
vivid recollection
recollection of, of, even
even at at this
this
distant date.
distant date. We “'e had had aa twelve
twelve days’
days' voyage,
voyage, having
having to to beat
beat
all
all the
the way;
way; occasionally
occasionally at night we
at night we got
got aa favourable
favourable slam- slant
with
with the
the wind
wind off off the
the land,
land, without
without which
which (having
(having the the current
currenc
against
against us) us) ourour voyage
voyage might might have
have beenbeen an an interminable
interminable one, one,
although only
although only seventy-two geographical miles.
seventy-two geographical miles.
The coast was
The coast very bold
was very bold and mountainous ; not
and mountainous; not a tree or
a tree the
or the
merest sign
merest sign of vegetation met
of vegetation met thethe eye, and in
eye, and in this distance of
this distance of
seventy-two miles
seventy-two there were
miles there were only inconstant little
two inconstant
only two little streams,
streams,
that came
that dribbling down
came dribbling down fromfrom the through the
Cordillera through
the Cordillera the deep
deep
qurbratlas
qwbradas or or gullies
gullies of of Camarones
Camarones and and Pizagua,
Pizagua, and and theythey were
were
always brackish,
always undrinkable. The
sometimes undrinkable.
brackish, sometimes The next break con-
next break con
watercourse is
taining aa watercourse
taining is one hundred and
one hundred eighty-seveh miles
and eighty-seveh miles
from Pizagua, where
from Pizagua, where the river Loa
tho river flows, but
Loa flows, but its waters are
its waters arc
sometimes
sometimes as as salt
salt asas brine.
brine.
On voyngo II was
this voyage
On this initiated into
fully initiated
was fully living of
the living
into the of the
the
country
country on board ship.
on board ship. A tea of
A tea of the Yerba de
the Yerba de Paragua,
Paragua, sucked sucked
through aa tube,
through very much
tube, very much like hot liquorice
like hot water ;; toasted
liquorice water toasted
maize in
maize lieu of
in lieu bread ; the
of bread; the eternal greasy stew
eternal greasy stew of of notnot over-
over-
jerked beef,
fresh jerked
fresh beef, pumpkin, potatoes, and
pumpkin, potatoes, garlic, condimented
and garlic, condimented
with the
with never-failing aji,
the never-failing aji, or capsicum, and
red capsicum,
or red and this this under
under
calms and
calms blistering suns!
and blistering suns ! but how often
but how often have wished for
have II wished for
such fare
such whilst in
fare whilst those and
in those wild lands.
other wild
and other lands. .
During the
During the day day the swarm of
the swarm guano-making birds
of guano-making birds flying
flying
about
about was prodigious, and
something prodigious,
was something diving for
their diving
and their fish (so
for fish (so
abundant in
very abundant
very in these most amusing.
waters) most
these waters) Sometimes, when
amusing. Sometimes, when
near in
near shore, the
in shore, screaming of
the screaming of seals with the
seals with noise of
the noise of the
the
beating of
beating billows was
the billows
of the anything but
was anything but harmonious.
harmonious.
The
The monotony
monotony of of my my voyage
voyage was was somewhat
somewhat broken broken by by
meeting
meeting with with an an American
American Whaler,whaler, whowho was busy cutting
was busy cutting up up and
and
boiling
boiling aa whalewhale down. down. II went went on on board
board to to dinner,
dinner, but but the the
eflluvia
effluvia there
there was was rather
rather moremore nasty,
nasty, II think,
think, than
than thatthat of of mymy
own
own vessel.
vessel.
One
One dayday being
being nearnear the the shore
shore wewe letlet go
go anchor
anchor (a (a large
large stone
stone
in aa wooden
in wooden frame) frame) in in aa cove.
cove. "We We had had notnot long
long beenbeen there
there
before
before II heard
heard the captain and
the captain and crew
crew scream
scream out out “" Miserecordia
Miserecordia l” !"
and
and looking
looking about about saw saw themthem on on their
their knees
knees on on the the deck,
deck,
devoutly
devoutly crossing themselves and
crossing themselves and looking
looking at at meme as as II stood
stood
wondering,
wondering, as as ifif II really
really were
were aa heretic.
heretic. II askedasked the the reason
reason
of this
of this sudden
sudden act act ofof theirs.
theirs. " “ Temblor
Temblor !" l” said
said they.
they. II had had
indeedheard aa slight
indeedheard slight rumbling
rumbling noise,
noise, and and then
then aa sort
sort ofof shake,
shake,
 Aspects
Aspects of
of Nature
Nature 1}»
in Southern Peru.
Southern Peru. 335
335

but
but hadhad not not attributed
attributed them them to to an
an earthquake;
earthquake; however, however, in in
time,
time, II gotgot as sensitive to
as sensitive to such
such occurrences
occurrences as as the
the natives.
natives.
One evening we
One evening we had
had aa beautiful tropical sunset;
beautiful tropical sunset; it it was
was mag-
mag
nificent, and
nificent, and the the colours
colours most brilliant. The
most brilliant. The dayday had had been been
cloudless and
cloudless and thethe sun
sun shining
shining brightly;
brightly ; fromfrom gentle breezes it
gentle breezes it
became
became aa dead dead calm,
calm, and
and it appeared as
it appeared as if
if we
we were
were floating
floating on on aa
sea of
sea of glistening
glistening ultramarine
ultramarine ;; and and as as the
the sun sun was setting,
was setting,
the western sky,
the western sky, as
as ifif on
on lire,
fire, caused
caused the the sea
sea to to glow
glow withwith
its glorious
its glorious reflections.
reflections. The The other
other portion
portion of of the
the heavens
heavens was was
tinted with
tinted with lightlight rose
rose andand lavender
lavender colours,
colours, blending
blending harmo harmo-
niously into
niously into onoone another
another;; and and then
then thethe changes
changes were were so so rapid
rapid!!
We see
We see all
all this
this wonderful
wonderful beauty
beauty for for an
an instant—in
instant—in aa moment moment it it
is gone,
is gone, andand we we have
have toto call
call upon
upon aa traitorous
traitorous recollection
recollection for for aa
faint description.
faint description.
The
The arrival
arrival ofof the
the “" San
San Miguel”
Miguel " was was an an event
event in the bay
in the bay ofof
Iquique. On
Iquique. On one side was
one side was the rugged guano
the rugged guano island,
island, on on the
the other
other
high
high andand precipitous mountains, and
precipitous mountains, and before
before us us aa small
small collection
collection
of the most
of the most miserable-looking1
miserable-looking habitations
habitations imaginable
imaginable;: in in the
the
rear huge sandhills,
rear huge sandhills, andand beyond
beyond themthem mountains, mountains,
mountains, mountains,
desert mountains!!
desert mountains
II was
was landed
landed by by aa swift
swift sea-skimming seal-skin balsa;
sea-skimming seal-skin balsa; the the
whole population,
whole population, consisting
consisting of of some
some dozen
dozen families,
families, werewere on on the
the
beach
beach to to give
give me me aa welcome,
welcome, and and aa thousand
thousand inquiries
inquiries as as to
to
when
when Don Don Jorge Jorge would return, and
would return, and when
when we wo were
wore to to begin
begin
working
working the mines of
the mines Huantajaya.
of Huantajaya.
The occupation of
The occupation the inhabitants
of the inhabitants of of this
this desolate
desolate spotspot con con-
sisted
sisted in in fishing
fishing and and conveying imported provisions
convoying imported provisions to to thethe
mines.
mines. Their Their miserable-looking
miserable-looking habitations
habitations were were built built of of
rough porphyritic stone,
rough porphyritic stone, cemented
cemented with with mortar
mortar of of burnt
burnt sar- sar
gasso,
gasso, or or gigantic
gigantic sea-weed,
sea-weed, and and sea-shells,
sea-shells, and covered with
and covered with
mats
mats brought
brought from the north
from the north of of Peru.
Peru. The floors were
The floors were of of bare
bare
earth, and
earth, and at end was
one end
at one which was
part, which
raised part,
was aa raised was the sleeping
the sleeping
place; aa small
place; table and
small table luxury. The
was aa luxury.
stool was
and aa stool The people
peoplo
appeared
appeared very happy, and
very happy, and even very kindly
even very disposed, and
kindly disposed, and
seemed
seemed as as if
if they
they were
were butbut of of one
one family.
family.
After
After II had had gotgot somewhat
somewhat accustomed
accustomed to to this
this strange
strange scenescene
of the
of absolute sterility
most absolute
the most imaginable, II used
sterility imaginable, used to wander in
to wander in
cool of
the cool
the evening from
the evening
of the from one habitation to
ono habitation to another—tertuli-
another—tertuli-
gossiping and
ando, gossiping
undo, hstening to
and listening stories—they to
their stories—they
to their to mine.
mine.
Having
Having aa medicine
medicine chest,
chest, aa lancet,
lancet, and tooth drawer,
and tooth drawer, II very very
soon called “
was called
soon was El Sefior
" El Doctor ”!
Sefior Doctor " ! and think II may
and II think may mostmost
conscientiously state
conscientiously never did
that II never
state that much harm
did much during my
harm during my
medical career,
medical although II have
career, although had to
have had attend to
to attend diseases II knew
to diseases knew
about, and
nothing about,
nothing and perform operations with
perform operations similar intelligence.
with similar intelligence.
comparatively harmless
With comparatively
With medicines II was
harmless medicines was not very particular
not very particular
as to the
as to dose, but
the dose, when II had
but when had to deal with
to deal calomel or
with calomel or strong
strong
chemicals
chemicals like like blue
blue pill
pill II was
was most
most careful.
careful.
336
330 Aspects of
Aspects Nature in
of Nature Southern Peru.
in Southern Peru.

will now
II will few words
say aa few
now say the general
on the
words on of the
features of
general features the
country.
country.
The Peru
The Peru of of the present day
the present stretches from
day stretches from 3’ 35' S.
3' 35' S. to
to
21‘ 48' S.
21* 48' S. along
along the the shores
shores of Pacific, aa length
the Pacific,
of the length of 1250
of 1250
miles ;; its
miles greatest breadth
its greatest breadth is is about
about 750 with an
miles, with
750 miles, area of
an area of
512,122 square
512,122 square miles. miles. After After the revolutionary struggle,
the revolutionary struggle, the the
Peru of
Peru of the viceroys was
the viceroys divided into
was divided into twotwo parts,
parts, thethe one already
one already
alluded to,
alluded other was
the other
to, the Bolivia, 700
called Bolivia,
was called miles in
700 miles length by
in length by
about 500
about three-fourths of
broad, three-fourths
500 broad, of which
which is wilderness. For
is aa wilderness. For-
merly it
merly it was Charcas and
called Charcas
was called Upper Peru.
and Upper Peru. Its capital is
Its capital in
is in
19° 3'
19° 64° 47'
8., 64*
3' S., 47' W.,“L, and known under
and known under the names of
the names of La Plata,
La Plata,
Sucre, and
Sucre, Chuiqusaca.
and Chuiqusaca.
population of
The population
The Peru is
of Peru about 2,500,000,
is about variously divided
2,500,000, variously divided
Peruvians, white
into Peruvians,
into white (the criollos of
(the criollos Spaniards), and
the Spaniards),
of the and mixedmixed
with
with Indians (mestizos, or
Indians (mestizos, cholos, also
or cholos, with some
also with little Negro
some little Negro
blood), amounting to
blood), amounting 900,000; Indians
to 900,000; 1,460,000; Negroes
Indians 1,460,000; Negroes
40,000, who
40,000, who are free, and
are free, and as they can
as they regulate their
can regulate their own own
amount of
amount industry, have
of industry, have no inclination to
no inclination overwork themselves,
to overwork themselves,
so large
so numbers of
large numbers Chinese are
of Chinese imported to
are imported Peru as
to Peru as labourers,
labourers,
miners, and
miners, diggers at
and diggers Guano Islands.
the Guano
at the Islands.
Now as
Now as to to the geographical division
the geographical division of the country.
of the country.
1. coast, which
The coast,
1 . The which is rainless. On
is rainless. On the north is
the north the great
is the great
desert of
desert Sechura, on
of Sechura, on the south the
the south the still extensive desert
more extensive
still more desert
Atacama. Some
of Atacama.
of streams of
Some streams water, the
of water, the produce, rincipally,
produce, principally,
of the
of melting of
the melting snows and
of snows glaciers in
and glaciers the Co
in the illeras, run
Cordilleras, run
down steep
down steep and and deep quebradas or
deep quebradas nourishing the
dells, nourishing
or dells, the bottom
bottom
only of
only of the valleys of
the valleys of the coast ; for
the coast; where water
for where runs, there
water runs, there
only
only is is vegetation
vegetation seen. seen.
During the
During months of
winter months
the winter region, on
this region,
of this lomas or
the lomas
on the or
summits
summits of some of
of some of these mountains of
these mountains of the coast aa peculiar
the coast peculiar
vegetation appears,
vegetation appears, which which will will be treated of
be treated of by and by.
by and by.
2. The
2. table-land. After
The table-land.‘ toilsome climb
After aa toilsome climb on mule back
on mule back
up the
up western slopes
the western slopes of Cordilleras, and
the Cordilleras,
of the getting almost
and getting almost
frozen to
frozen death, whilst
to death, whilst goinggoing throughthrough the passes, some
the passes, some of of
which are
which are over 16,000 feet
over 10,000 above the
feet above level of
the level of the
the sea, where
and where
sea, and
aa stunted
stunted vegetation
vegetation has has been
been longlong left behind, we
left behind, we descend
descend to to
table-lands, and
elevated table-lands,
elevated and of these the
of these interesting is
most interesting
the most that
is that
in which
in which is is situated
situated the the great Andean lake
great Andean lake of Titicaca, 13,000
of Titicaca, 13,000
feet above
feet above the the level
level of of the
the ocean,
ocean, and and enlivened
enlivened by by itsits own
own
peculiar
peculiar fish. fish. On On the the islands
islands of of this lake, and
this lake, and onon its shores
its shores
(besides
(besides the the Incarial
Incarial Temple Temple of of thethe Sun Sun on on the Island of
the Island of
Titicaca) are
Titicaca) are observed
observed the the stone
stone ruins ruins of of Tia-Huanacu,
Tia-Huanacu, some some
of the
of monuments found
oldest monuments
the oldest found in Peru;; which
in Peru which even even thethe
Incas admired
Incas admired when when they they first
first discovered
discovered them. them.
Out
Out of of this Thibet of
this Thibet the New
of the New WorldWorld rise the ranges
aloft the
rise aloft ranges
known
known as as thethe Andes,
Andes, from 22,000 to
from 22,000 to 23,000
23,000 feet high above
feet high above
the sea.
the sea.
 Aspects
Aspects of
of Nature
Nature in
in Southern
Southern Peru.
Peru. 337
337

We
We now now descend
descend to to thethe east,
east, having
having had had an an opportunity,
opportunity, in in
one
one day,day, of of reaching
reaching aa region region of eternal glaciers,
of eternal glaciers, with with no no
vegetation, and
vegetation, and aa most most difficult atmosphere to
difficult atmosphere to breathe,
breathe, in con-
in con
sequence of
sequence of itsits extreme
extreme rarity.
rarity. The The peculiar character of
peculiar character of that
that
atmosphere once
atmosphere once seenseen is is not
not easily
easily forgotten;
forgotten ; it it is
is of
of so dark
so dark
an indigo colour
an indigo colour as as toto looklook nearly
nearly black, where stars
black, where stars can
can be be
observed shining at
observed shining mid-day, and
at mid-day, and thethe white
white outline
outline of of snow
snow on on
the
the ridges
ridges of of the
the Andes
Andes and and Cordilleras
Cordilleras is is in
in beautiful
beautiful contrast
contrast
with those
with those sombre
sombre heavens.
heavens.
In ascending
In ascending the the Cordillera
Cordillera the the traveller
traveller may may observe
observe
droves
droves of of thethe slow-moving
slow-moving and and patient
patient llama llama and and alpaca;
alpaca ;
higher
higher up up he he comes
comes uponupon the the timid,
timid, swift-fleeing
swift-fleeing herds herds of of the
the
huanaco and
huanaco and vicufia
vicuna ;; in in the
the table-land
table-land he he maymay have have metmet with
with
aa stray
stray pumapuma or or even
even an an ostrich
ostrich from from the the eastern
eastern plains,
plains, but but
the
the only
only inhabitant
inhabitant of of life
life he perceives at
he perceives at andand above
above the the
elevation
elevation he he hashas finally
finally reached,
reached, is is the mighty condor.
the mighty condor.
In
In thethe descent
descent to to thethe easteast the the first
first vegetation
vegetation seen seen is is the
the
curious
curious and and largelarge dome-shaped,
dome-shaped, very very resinous,
resinous, yareta yareta plant
plant (a (a
Below)
Bolax) ;; then
then the the ichu.
ichu grass
grass ;3 this this is is the
the natural
natural pasture
pasture of of the
the
auchenia or
auchenia or llama
llama family,
family, four four in in number;
number; the the vicufia
vicufia and and
huanaco
huanaco whichwhich are are wild,
wild, thethe llamallama and and alpaca
alpaca which
which are tame.
are tame.
We come
We come now now upon upon cacti,
cacti, the the resinous
resinous Tola Tola shrubshrub appears,
appears,
further
further downdown grasses grasses cover
cover the the mountains,
mountains, and and in in their ravines
their ravines
plants and
plants and smallsmall trees;
trees; and and descending
descending still still further,
further, tropical
tropical
vegetation is
vegetation is arrived
arrived at, at, covering
covering the the tops
tops of of the
the mountains
mountains in in
this
this region
region down down to to the streams and
the streams rivers that
and rivers that flow
flow into
into thethe
Amazon
Amazon and and the the Plata.
Plata.
silver mines
The silver
The mines of Huantajaya and
of Huantajaya Santa Rosa
and Santa Rosa werewere up up in in
the coast
the mountains, beyond
coast mountains, beyond which there was
which there was aa great jiampct or
great pampa or
plain where the
plain where ores were
the ores were amalgamated,
amalgamated, in consequence of
in consequence of
water being
water obtained from
being obtained from wells Further on
there. Further
wells there. on waswas situ-
situ
ated
ated 'l‘arapaca,
Tarapaca, the the capital
capital of of thethe province,
province, the the residence
residence of of the
the
Intendente, El
Intendente, Coronel Don
Seiior Coronel
El Senor Ramon Castilla
Don Ramon Castilla (now (now presi-
presi
dent of
dent Peru), and
of Peru), terciana or
there terciana
and there ague was
or ague endemic. Then
was endemic. Then
there
there was another spot
was another called Pica,
spot called where wine
Pica, where wine and brandy
and brandy
made, but
were made,
were where the
but where the ague ague was was of of the atabadillada, or
the atahadillada, or
spotted fever
spotted fever type further off
type ;; further ofl' still, lived the
still, lived Indians in
the Indians in thethe
valleys of
valleys Cordillera, on
the Cordillera,
of the their little
on their farms, and
little farms, higher up
and higher up inin
the mountains
the mountains they they tended
tended llamas llamas and and alpacas.
alpacas.
Now, in
Now, 1862, Iqui
in 1862, Iquique ue is place (the
large place
is aa large (the port all that
for all
port for that
district, and
district, and secondsecond on only importance to
in importance
y in Callao), containing
to Callao), containing
from 5000
from 5000 to to 6000 sprinkling of
including aa sprinkling
souls, including
6000 souls, of foreigners
foreigners
of all
of churches, and
nations, churches,
all nations, and some houses, aa club,
stately houses,
some stately club, hotels
hotels
—even an
—even Italian Opera
an Italian opera has has been performed there.
been performed there.
In
In early times the
early times town was
the town supplied with
was supplied with waterwater fromfrom the the
quebrada of
quebrada Pizagua, forty
of Pizagua, geographical miles
forty geographical distant to
miles distant to the
the
north;
north; now, now, all that is
all that used for
is used drinking is
lor drinking distilled from
is distilled from
 338
338 Aspects
Aspects of
of Nature
Nature in
in Southern
Southern Peru.
Peru.

the ocean,
the ocean, and and sellssells for for about
about three half-pence the
three half-pence gallon,
toe gallon,
realizing some
realizing £40,000 to
some £40,000 £50,000;; the
to £50,000 fuel for
the fuel this operation
for this operation
taken from
being taken
being England or
from England Chile. This
or Chile. great changefrom
This great change from
when knew the
first knew
when II first the place
place is owing to
is owing discovery and
the discovery
to the the
and the
refining of
refining b'alitre, or
of Salitre, nitrate of
or nitrate soda, some
of soda, some fewfew leagues
leagues in the
in the
interior.
interior.
stands on
Iquique stands
Iquique stratum of
thick stratum
on aa thick near to
shells near
of shells the sea;
to the sea;
on shore they
the shore
on the they areare in state of
fair state
in aa fair preservation, but
of preservation, but gong
going
inland they
inland assume all
they assume all the stages of
the stages disintegration, until
of disintegration, until when
where
they touch on
the_v touch on thethe rock
rock of of the
the country
country they they areare in
in fine
fine powder,
powder,
and on
and night aa slight
dark night
on aa dark phosphorescence may
Blight phosphorescence may be observed
be observed
in the
in the shell-pits. Independent of
shell-pits. Independent mechanical disintegration,
of mechanical disintegration,
chemical changes
chemical changes have have been going on,
been going owing to
on, owing to some
some salt of the
salt. of the
having been
ocean having
ocean been left with the
left with shells, and
the shells, among them
and among chlorides
them chlorides
of
of lime, carbonates and
lime, carbonates sulphates of
and sulphates lime and
of lime soda (the
and soda m
last in
(the last
very
very fine groups of
fine groups crystals) are
of crystals) formed. Has
are formed. this and
Has this and similar
similar
sloping
sloping shellshell plains
plains been elevated by
been elevated by internal forces of
internal forces the
of the
earth, or
earth, or has the sea
has the retired?? Perhaps
sea retired Perhaps the the former
former is more
the more
is the
logical supposition.
logical supposition.
climate is
The climate
The dry that,
so dry
is so during aa three
that, during years’ residence
three years' residence
there,
there, II only
only once
once sawsaw aa very very slight rain.
slight rain.
The winter heat
mean winter
The mean heat at noon is
at noon 67°, the
is 67°, summer heat
mean summer
the mean heal
80°, but in
80°, but the sun
in the sun it scorching. Indeed,
is scorching.
it is Indeed, the would be
coast would
the coast be
unbearable on
unbearable on the score of
the score heat if
of heat the winds
if the during the
winds during the long
long
summer of
summer latitude were
this latitude
of this were not not thethe cool breezes from
cool breezes from the the
south, and
south, were not
and were not the tempered by
further tempered
climate further
the climate by the the cool
cool
current from
current from the running rather
south, running
the south, rapidly at
rather rapidly times along
at times along
the
the shores
shores of of the
the Pacific.
Pacific.
The occupations
The occupations of of the natives, when
the natives, when not not fishing (which took
fishing (which took
up
up but
but little
little time),
time), werewere chatting
chatting and and smoking.
smoking. One One day
day II 8815911
asked
an
an old fisherman, who
old fisherman, appeared to
who appeared to meme to always smoking
be always
to be smoking
paper
paper cigars,
cigars, howhow manymany he he smoked
smoked daily daily ?1’ He answered, forty
He answered, forty ;;
and this
and this hehe had
had donedone for some fifty
for some years. At
fifty years. At the
the price then of
price then of
these
these paper cigars, he
paper cigars, ho had smoked £470
had smoked worth, and
£470 worth, and 730,000
730,000
cigars ;; and
cigars this for
and this for aa ragged, fisherman !! As
shoeless fisherman
ragged, shoeless As thethe sale
sale
tobacco and
of tobacco
of paper was
and paper government monopoly,
was aa government monopoly, in these two
in these two
articles alone what
articles alone what aa tax tax on on his
his luxury
luxury he had paid.
he had paid.

‘fianfi raw '7’ ' r fi