Shirt

APC VDIS10040
ASSESSMENT TASK 3
• Students will utilize their bodice block developed in Assessment
Task 1 to develop a shirt design. The Shirt is to be made with
collar, front placket and patch pocket design in chosen fabric.
• Additionally, students are required to complete a specification
sheet for the shirt design, measuring the finished sample against
the original measurements from the pattern, documenting any
amendments of the design.
• Students will also develop their knowledge of digital tools for lay-
up and marking.
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Virtu Design Institute Pty Ltd (RTO 40530 - ABN 31 154 273 757) trading as APC Design School
Young Rabbit Pty Ltd (RTO 90396 - ABN 28 003 381 182 - CRICOS 01331F) trading as Australian Pacific College
Created by Tanya Dove
Shirt Design
• Label pattern pieces, including grain lines, notches and pattern information and cutting
instructions.
• Show an understanding of basic pattern making principles: pattern markings, seam allowances,
ease allowance, seam match, hems, dart manipulation.
• Lay out pattern pieces and pin or tack to the fabric to match fabric pattern, nap and weave,
including laying out garment components according to sequence of assembly operations.
• Make a finished sample to test fit, and accuracy of pattern, alter pattern to reflect test fitting
outcomes and quality standards and document any alterations made to the pattern.
• Showing an understanding of design terminology used: noting style details, style features, style
number, size, and checking accuracy of any modifications.
• Identify job requirements from specifications, drawings, job sheets or work instructions.
• Complete the shirt with any required hand sewing and finishing according to design concept
requirements.
• Sample should be pressed and checked for size and appearance.
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Submission
• 3a. Finished shirt
• 3b. Research and summarize in 200 words
the types of computer operations involved
in marker making, copying and storage
• 3c. Photographic 2-3-page report.
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Part 1 – Pattern Cutting
• Using your bodice block
• Creating a plan of a shirt design
• Making the shirt pattern
• Selecting fabric
• Fabric Lay
• Chalk and cutting
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Fabric consumption – 1m
25cm
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Abbreviations used in pattern cutting
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Ease of Movement
Breathing – Bust Line = 4cm
Eating – Waist Line = 2cm
Sitting – Hip Line = 4cm
Ease of movement is added into blocks to allow you to move

in the clothes you make.
Ease can be a minimum of 2cm for BL and HL for very fitted
styles.
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Bodice Block
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Trace your block onto card or paper to make your shirt plan.
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Page
Trace the back and front
bodice.
Keep the BL, WL and HL
aligned across the page.
Mark in essential
abbreviations.
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Trace sleeve
block next to
bodice.
Or on a
separate piece
of paper.
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Add the design
panel lines in
as per your
design
technical
drawing.
1. Confirm
Length 16cm
under WL,
curved up to
14cm at side seam
2. Back yoke at XB line
3. Centre back – continue panel line to
XB
4. Side back
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Page
Yoke
seam
Add the design panel lines in as per your

design technical drawing.
1.  Draw in yoke seam - 6cm UP from
bust line - BL
2.  Confirm length - 16cm under WL,
curving to 14cm at side seam
3.  Add in front placket. 3cm width (1.5cm
each side of CF line)
4.  Draw in front patch pocket and pocket
flap (optional size)
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1. Add placket position on sleeve
hem. At 6cm from side seam. 14cm
length
2. Pleats reduce the cuff width.
Draw in two pleats 1cm wide (2cm
total). First pleat is 2cm away from
placket,
2nd pleat is 1cm away from 1st pleat
3. Draw cuff. Width – 6cm. Length =
sleeve width at cuff MINUS 4cm for
the two pleats. This creates the basic
rectangle.
Add on button stand for the cuff.
2.5cm extra length Add on the
‘point’ of the cuff. 2cm extra.
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Measure BACK and FRONT neckline to make
the collar.
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Page
Draw two
rectangles for
5cm the collar stand
and fall.
4cm Back neck Front neck Button
measurement measurement stand CB – SP =
back neck
Collar fall
SP CF measurement
needs to be
Sp – CF = front
1cm higher
neck
than collar
measurement
stand.
PLUS button
stand/placket
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Raise collar fall 0.5cm at CB Raise stand 1cm at CF and taper

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and taper to SP to SP
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Pattern – note down any special requirements –
seams, fabric direction etc.
GRAIN LINES – show
Comments/notes direction to cut fabric.
Flat Felled armhole, side and sleeve seam Flat felled seams =
Topstitch all seams foot width - 0.7cm 1.5cm seam allowance
Front and back yoke cut on BIAS grain
Pocket cut CROSS grain
Cuff cut CROSS grain
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Number all pattern pieces.
1 Back Yoke
2 Centre Back
3 Side Back
4 Front Yoke
5 Centre Front
6 Side Front
7 Front Placket
8 Front Pocket
9 Front Pocket Flap
10 Collar Fall
11 Collar Stand
12 Sleeve
13 Sleeve Top Placket
14 Sleeve Under Placket
15 Sleeve Cuff
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Back and collar pattern pieces
1 Back Yoke
2 Centre Back
3 Side Back
10 Collar Fall
11 Collar Stand
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Front Pattern pieces
4 Front Yoke
5 Centre Front
6 Side Front
7 Front Placket
8 Front Pocket
9 Front Pocket Flap

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Sleeve pattern pieces
12 Sleeve
13 Sleeve Top Placket
14 Sleeve Under Placket
15 Sleeve Cuff
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1cm seam to
Yoke. F and B 1.5cm flat
felled seam at
the side and
Back panel armhole
is cut on
Fold
1cm panel seam
1.5cm hem
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1.5cm flat felled 1cm neck and
armhole seam shoulder seam
1cm neck and shoulder
seam
Back yoke is CUT

2. One for inside,
one for outside.
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1 Cm seam at bottom of yoke BIAS grain line B and F

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1.5cm flat
felled seam at
the side and
armhole
1cm panel seam

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1.5cm hem
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Front
placket is
cut 2.
1cm seam
and
1.5cm
hem
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Pocket flap is folded in the Pocket has 1cm seam
centre. 1cm seam around all allowance and a 2cm (1cm
edges. Cut fusing (interfacing) double turn) top edge.
to be ironed on the inside.
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Collar stand and fall are CUT 2 on the fold. And cut 1
interfacing to be ironed on the inside. 1cm seam
around edges.
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Sleeve has flat felled seams around sleeve
head and side seams. 1.5cm allowance.
Sleeve hem has 1cm to be attached to
the cuff.
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Top placket has
0.5cm seam down
long edges and a
folded top edge.
Under placket is
folded 4 times
finished width.
Cut 2cm wide.
Cuff is cut 4, 1cm

seam around all
edges. Cutting 2
in fusing to be
ironed on the
inside.
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Fabric Recommendation –
A type of Cotton is very suitable for shirts. Natural and easy to launder.
Cotton blended with polyester is a typical high street shirt fabric.
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Part 2A – Sewing a Shirt
• Fabric Lay
• Chalk and cutting
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•  Sewing step by step •  Fitting
RIGHT side of
fabric is always on
the inside when
you cut to protect
it.
Fold fabric in half

and place against
a straight edge
(table edge)
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Page
Align fabric to edge of table. Smooth out all creases. Make sure the
top layer sits perfectly over the under layer.
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Iron out any creases before cutting
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Lay ALL pattern pieces down at once, trying to cut out in the most cost
effective way, using the least amount of fabric. WATCH the grain lines
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for placement in the correct way.

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For pattern pieces cut on fold leave
enough space for the other side.
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Check and confirm
all pattern pieces fit
before chalking and
cutting.
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Record fabric consumption – 1m 25cm
Useful if you want to make a second garment in a different fabric ☺
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Once every pattern piece is chalked remove pattern pieces.
Keep weights on top of fabric to hold it in place.
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Cut out each pattern piece. Move yourself to reach all pieces, DO
NOT move the fabric. Moving fabric can disturb the under layer and
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then it could be cut out wrong.

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CUT up 3mm each notch. Be careful not to cut more. This is
for 1cm seam allowance. Notches help you sew so don’t
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forget them!
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Cut the line of the sleeve placket position.
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Stripe shirt is now cut out and ready to sew.
Referring to pattern pieces is not necessary as notches

will show you how to sew each piece together.
However, for beginners keep the pattern pieces

handy so you can double check which piece is sewn
next to which piece.
Part 2 – Sewing and fitting

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APC VDIS10040

Ease of movement is added into blocks to allow you to move

Add the design panel lines in as per your

Raise collar fall 0.5cm at CB Raise stand 1cm at CF and taper

9 Front Pocket Flap

13 Sleeve Top Placket

14 Sleeve Under Placket

Back yoke is CUT

1 Cm seam at bottom of yoke BIAS grain line B and F

1cm panel seam

Cuff is cut 4, 1cm

Fold fabric in half

for placement in the correct way.

then it could be cut out wrong.

Referring to pattern pieces is not necessary as notches

However, for beginners keep the pattern pieces

Part 2 – Sewing and fitting

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