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2019-Friele Model of Rotor SpunMulti-Primary-Colour-Blended Yarn
2019-Friele Model of Rotor SpunMulti-Primary-Colour-Blended Yarn
Yaya Xu,
Friele Model of Rotor Spun
Ruiye Han Multi-Primary-Colour-Blended Yarn
DOI: 10.5604/01.3001.0013.19XX
Jiangnan University, Abstract
Education Ministry, Multi-channel rotor spinning equipment can produce multi-colour mixed yarn by changing
Key Laboratory of Science the feed speeds of three primary coloured slivers separately. The method realises the mixing
& Technology for Eco-Textiles, of colour fibres during the spinning process, and has the characteristics of high production
Wuxi, Jiangsu, China, 214122 flexibility, simplicity and quickness. The colour mixing effect and colour blending ratio
* e-mail: yangrh@jiangnan.edu.cn prediction are important conditions for industrial production. In this paper, two-component
and three-component samples were spun with rovings of red, yellow and blue with different
blending ratios. A colour model of the rotor spun multi-primary-colour-blended yarn was
established based on Friele theory by determining the σ value, which is the model para-
meter determined by experiments. Two methods were employed to calculate the σ value
to improve the accuracy of the model: 1. under the condition of all wavelengths and 2. at
various wavelengths. The results showed that the model parameters calculated at various
wavelengths could better predict the colour of multi-channel rotor spun colour-blended yarn.
coloured fibres [7]. Philips et al. extend- roller is controlled by a separate servo
ed the application of the model to cotton motor drive independently (the feeding
fibres [8]. Shen et al. applied the models speeds can be the same or different and
to the spectral colour matching of yarn can be changed on-line), thus the blend-
spun from coloured cotton and coloured ing ratio of slivers 1, 2 and 3 can be var-
wool, respectively [9]. All the researches ied. Hence, three primary coloured fibres
above were conducted based on blend- can be blended in suitable proportions to
ing fibres during the drafting process or obtain as many target colours as possible.
open-cleaning process or by hand [13-15].
However, in the textile industry, blending Different components of the slivers are
methods have a great influence on the fed by feeding rollers separately, which
colours of blended fibres [16-17]. rotate to feed the sliver to the carding
area. The slivers are opened, stripped,
In this study, the Friele model was ex- carded separately and mixed by the card-
tended to yarns by blending
The feeding three prima- ofing
mechanism roller, which rotor
multi-channel rotatesspinning
at a high contains
speed three co
ry coloured cotton fibres just during the in the carding area, so that the sliver be-
multi-channel rotor spun process. The comes single fibres, which are separated
σ value is therollers: 4, 5 and to6,deter-
main parameter which rotate aroundparallel
and arranged the same axis,other.
to each as shown
Sin- in Figure
mine the Friele model, which is calcu- gle fibres then enter into the fibre trans-
Introduction lated from experiments.
speed of each Twofeeding
methodsrollerport channel. Under the action of air flow,
is controlled by a separate servo motor drive ind
were employed to calculate the σ value the fibres flow into the rotor through the
Fabrics and yarns are usually dyed or
to determine the model: 1. under the con- fibre transport channel. With the centrifu-
printed to obtain a colour or pattern. The feeding speeds can
dition of all wavelengths and 2. at be the same
vari- or different
gal force and rotating
of the rapidly can be rotor,
changed
the on-line), th
process will cause water pollution and fibres in the collection groove are further
ous wavelengths. The blended colour and
electricity loss, affecting the ecology of piled up and mixed, and then the fibres
the environment. The production process blending ratiosratio
wereof
calculated
sliversand
1, com-
2 and are
3 can be varied. Hence, three primary coloure
pared, which provided a theoretical basis jointed with the mother-yarn and
of multi-channel rotor spun yarn can re-
duce the above-mentioned problems [1-3]. for further research on the three-colour twisted by a navel to form a yarn.
blending model blended in rotor
of smart suitable
spunproportions
yarn to obtain as many target colours as possible.
Colour matching is one of the key tech-
nical problems of coloured spun yarn in and intelligent computer colour match-
the textile industry. It is one of the nec- ing.
4
1 5
essary conditions to realise intelligent
computer colour matching in the process Research material 2
of colour blended spinning with different and methods
ratios of coloured fibre. Several methods
Spinning method: multi-channel rotor 3
have been introduced to describe the col-
our blending of pre-colored fibres, such spinning
as the Kubelka-Munk theory [4-6], Fri- The feeding mechanism of multi-channel 6
ele equation [7-9] and Stearns-Noechel rotor spinning contains three combined
model [10-12], among which the Friele feeding rollers: 4, 5 and 6, which rotate
Figure Figurepart
1 Feeding 1. Feeding part of three-channel
of three-channel rotor spinning machine
model is a theoretical colour-prediction around the same axis, as shown in Fig- rotor spinning machine: 1, 2, 3 – slivers,
model proposed by Friele for mixed ure 1. The feeding speed of each feeding —
(1、2、3 4, 5,slivers;4、5、6 — combined feed rollers)
6 – combined feed rollers.
Yang R, Xu Y, Han R. Friele Model of Rotor Spun Multi-Primary-Colour-Blended Yarn. Different components of the slivers are fed by feeding rollers
1 separately,
FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2019; 27, 5(137): XX-XX. DOI: 10.5604/01.3001.0013.19XX
feed the sliver to the carding area. The slivers are opened, stripped, carded
friendly,
color small-scale
effect and
- harmony, andmulti-style. Fabric
a soft and rich woven
hazy with this kindeffect
three-dimensional of yarn
and presents a unique
texture [1].
color effect - harmony, and a soft and rich hazy three-dimensional effect and texture [1].
color effect - harmony, and a soft and rich hazy three-dimensional effect and texture [1].
Material Cotton
Colour of fibres Red, Yellow, Blue
Dyeing method Exhaust dyeing
Materials
Figure 6. Mélange yarn. Figure 6 Mélange yarn In this paper, colored yarns were pro-
Figure 6 Mélange yarn duced by multi-channel rotor spinning
Table 2. Colour matching scheme. with various blending ratios of the same
Materials linear density. Table 1 shows the specifi-
No. R:Y:B No. R:Y:B No. R:Y:B No. R:Y:B No. R:Y:B No. R:Y:B cation of the raw material and test condi-
Materials #1 1:0:0 #12 9:1:0 #23 0:2:8 #34 5:1:4 #45 1:2:7 #56 1:4:5 tions. 66 types of colour yarns were pro-
In this paper,
#2 colored
0:1:0 yarns 1:0:9
#13 were #24
produced
0:3:7 by
#35 multi-channel
4:1:5 #46 rotor#57spinning
6:3:1 4:5:1 with various
duced with three basic coloured slivers
#3 0:0:1 #14 2:0:8 #25 0:4:6 #36 3:1:6 #47 5:3:2 #58 3:5:2 (Red, Yellow and Blue), fed at different
In this paper,
#4 colored
1:9:0 yarns 3:0:7
#15 were #26
produced
0:5:5 by
#37 multi-channel
2:1:7 #48 rotor#59spinning
4:3:3 2:5:3 with various
rates by changing the feeding speed of
blending ratios
#5 of the
2:8:0 same
#16 linear
4:0:6 density.
#27 Table
0:6:4 1
#38shows the
1:1:8 specification
#49 3:3:4 of
#60 the raw
1:5:4 material and
each sliver. Codes and components of the
#6 3:7:0 #17 5:0:5 #28 0:7:3 #39 7:2:1 #50 2:3:5 #61 3:6:1
blending ratios of the same linear density. Table 1 shows the specification of the raw material given in Table 2.
yarns areand
#7 4:6:0 #18 6:0:4 #29 0:8:2 #40 6:2:2 #51 1:3:6 #62 2:6:2
test conditions.
#8
665:5:0
types#19
of colour
7:0:3
yarns
#30
were produced
0:9:1 #41 5:2:3
with
#52
three basic
5:4:1 #63
coloured
1:6:3
slivers (Red,
The dyes were C.I. Reactive Red 239
test conditions.
#9 66 types#20
6:4:0 of colour
8:0:2 yarns
#31 were produced
8:1:1 #42 4:2:4 with
#53three
4:4:2basic
#64coloured
2:7:1 slivers (Red,Red 3BSN), C.I. Reactive
(Reactive
Yellow and Blue), fed at different rates by changing the feeding speed of each1:7:2
#10 7:3:0 #21 9:0:1 #32 7:1:2 #43 3:2:5 #54 3:4:3 #65
sliver. blue
Codes19 and
(Reactive blue KN-R) and C.I.
#11 8:2:0 #22 0:1:9 #33 6:1:3 #44 2:2:6 #55 2:4:4 #66 1:8:1
Reactive Yellow 176 (Reactive Yellow
Yellow and Blue), fed at different rates by changing the feeding speed of each sliver. Codes and
components
2 of the yarns are given in Table 2. FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2019, Vol. 27, 5(137)
35 35 5.60 5.60
40 40
30 30
35 35 5.60
5.55 5.60
5.55
25 25
30 30
20 5.55
5.50 5.55
5.50
20
25 25
ΣΔR
ΣΔR
15 15 5.50 5.50
20 20 5.45 5.45
10 10 A
15 A 15
5.45
5.40 5.45
5.40
5 5
10 A 10 A σ σ σ
σ
0.0 0.2 0.0
0.4 0.2
0.6 0.4
0.8 0.6
1.0 0.8 1.0 5.40 0.15 5.40
0.16 0.15 0.18
0.17 0.16 0.19
0.17 0.20
0.18 0.19 0.20
5 5
σ σ σ σ
0.0 0.2 0.0
0.4 0.2
0.6 0.4
0.8 0.6
1.0 0.8 1.0 0.15 0.16 0.17
0.15 0.18
0.16 0.19
0.17 0.20
0.18 0.19 0.20
9.70 9.70
80 80 9.65 9.65
70 9.70
9.60 9.70
9.60
70
80 80 9.65
9.55 9.65
9.55
60 60
70 70 9.60
9.50 9.60
9.50
50 50
ΣΔR
ΣΔR
60 60 9.55
9.45 9.55
9.45
40 40
50 50 9.50
9.40 9.50
9.40
30 30
40 40 9.45
9.35 9.45
9.35
20 B 20 B 9.40 9.40
9.30
30 30 9.30
10 10 9.35 9.35
20 B 20 B 9.25 9.25
0 0 σ σ 9.30 9.30 σ σ
10 10 0.0 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 1.0 Friele Models 0.15 0.18
0.16 0.19
0.17 0.20
0.18 0.19 0.20
0.0 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 1.0 9.25 0.15 9.25
0.16 0.17
0 0 Friele Models σ σ σ σ
0.0 0.2 0.0
0.4 0.2
0.6 0.4
0.8 0.6
1.0 0.8 The predictive method 0.15
1.0 developed
0.16by Friele
0.15is based
0.17 0.16on0.19
0.18 the principle
0.17 0.18 of 0.19
0.20 an additive
0.20formula
Figure 9. ΣΔR of three-component sample. Figure 10. Enlarged B position.
The predictive method developed by Friele is based on the principle of an additive formula, that
is, their hypothesis is made assuming that [7-9]
3RS), purchased from Lonsen Ltd.(Zhe-
is, their hypothesistive formula,
is made assuming that that
is, [7-9]
their hypothesis is the reflectivity and obtain the difference
𝑛𝑛
jiang, China), and the dyeing machine made assuming that [7-9] between all the calculated values of the
𝑓𝑓 𝑅𝑅 = 𝑥𝑥𝑖𝑖 𝑓𝑓 𝑅𝑅𝑖𝑖 λ
was a WXS250. Knitted fabrics were 𝑛𝑛 sample
𝑏𝑏𝑏𝑏𝑏𝑏𝑏𝑏𝑏𝑏 λ and the actual sample colour. σ, (1)
𝑖𝑖=1
produced with three-channel rotor spun 𝑓𝑓 𝑅𝑅𝑏𝑏𝑏𝑏𝑏𝑏𝑏𝑏𝑏𝑏 λ = 𝑥𝑥𝑖𝑖 𝑓𝑓 𝑅𝑅𝑖𝑖 λ (1) corresponding (1) to the minimum colour dif-
yarns. The sample was 20 cm x 20 cm, and 𝑖𝑖=1 f 𝑅𝑅 λference = 𝑒𝑒 −𝜎𝜎is1−𝑅𝑅
chosen as λthe model parameter.
λ 2 /2𝑅𝑅
the fabric had a density of 120 coils/ cm 2 (2)
−𝜎𝜎 1−𝑅𝑅 λ 2 /2𝑅𝑅 λ (2)
(15 * 8), produced by a TF-S3F4. Colour f 𝑅𝑅 λ = 𝑒𝑒 (2)
where, R blend (λ) denotes the reflectance Results and discussion
of the blend at wavelength λ , 𝑅𝑅𝑖𝑖 λ
characteristics of the fabrics were tested where, R
blend (λ) denotes the reflectance
by Datacolor 650, which mainly where,measures
R blend (λ)ofdenotes
the blend the atreflectance
wavelength of λ,theR blend
(λ) theat wavelength
σ based onλassignment , 𝑅𝑅𝑖𝑖 λ the
method (σ1 and
the spectral reflectance at a specific wave- reflectance of the reflectance of thei ith component of the blend at the same wavelength, xi, the mass propo
ith component of the σ2)
length of the fabric, ranging reflectance
from 360 nm of the ith
blendcomponent
at the of the blend
same at the same
wavelength, xi, wavelength,
the In thia/s xi, the mass proportion
experiment, the colour-mixed
to 700 nm, at a wavelength interval of 10 mass proportionofofthethe ith component
ith component fabricintroduced
that has been in the blend, f, the additive function pro
nm. The measurement results of two-component and three-com-
of are
the used as thatthat
ith component hashasbeen been introduced
introducedininthe blend, f, theponent
the blend, additive rotor function spunprovided
yarns, respectively,
basic data for subsequent models. During the additive function by the authors;byand
provided theσau-is a dimensionless constant. And the following condition mu
colour testing, the knitted samples were thors; and σ is a dimensionless constant. were used to assign σ according to the
by the authors; and σ is a dimensionless constant. And the following Friele condition
model in mustrange
the be of 0 to 1 in
folded into 4 layers to ensure opacity, and And the following condition must be
fulfilled:
a 30 mm aperture was selected. In each fulfilled: 0.001 increments. The spectral reflec-
fulfilled:
sample, the colours at different locations tances of all the samples are predicted
𝑛𝑛
𝑥𝑥𝑖𝑖 = 1 (3)(3) for each value of σ at a visible wave-
were measured. All tests were conducted 𝑖𝑖=1
under standard conditions (22𝑛𝑛𝑖𝑖=1± 2𝑥𝑥𝑖𝑖°C 1 (3) Model parameter σ is experimentally de-
= and length of 360-720 nm. All samples here
65 ± 2% RH). An vverage colour differ- termined. The classical Model parameter σ is experimentally
algorithm is to refer to all determined.
two-component The classical
samplesalgorithm
or all is to deduce
ence less than a 0.2 CIELAB colour
Model unit σdeduce
parameter the σ valuedetermined.
is experimentally using Equations (1) three-component
The classical algorithm is to deduce samples.
the σ The sum of
was taken as the final result. and (2) in the value case of using Equations
mixing 1 - 2 inthe
several theabsolute
case of mixing valuesseveralof the spectral reflec- colours at a c
monochromatic
monochromatic colours at a certain mass
value using Equations 1 - 2 in the case of mixing several monochromatic colours at a certain tance difference between the predicted
Friele Models ratio with knownmass monochromatic
ratio with known propor- and actual
monochromatic value is and
proportions calculated, expressed
monochromatic reflectance; the σ
The predictive method developed by Fri- tions and monochromatic reflectance; the by ΣΔR, reflecting the overall prediction
mass ratio with known monochromatic proportions and monochromatic reflectance; the σ value
ele is based on the principle of an addi- σ value is then issubstituted then substituted to calculate
to calculate capability of the model.
the reflectivity and obtain For the
thedifference
small- between a
FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2019,isVol.then substituted to calculate the reflectivity and obtain the difference between all the
27, 5(137) 3 to the mini
calculated values of the sample and the actual sample colour. σ, corresponding
calculated values of the sample and the actual sample colour. σ, corresponding to the minimum
colour difference is chosen as the model parameter.
two-component
two-componentsamples
samples two-component
two-componentsamples
samples
0.5
0.5
0.45
0.45 two-component
two-componentsamples
samples three
threecomponent
componentsamples
samples
0.40
0.40 0.4
0.4
0.35
0.35
0.30
0.30 0.3
0.3
min ΣΔR
min ΣΔR
0.25
0.25
0.2
0.2 σσ= =0.18
0.18
0.20
0.20
0.15
0.15 0.1
0.1
0.10
0.10
0.0
0.0
0.05
0.05
350
350 400
400 450
450 500
500 550
550 600
600 650
650 700
700 750
750 350
350 400
400 450
450 500
500 550
550 600
600 650
650 700
700 750
750
Wavelength, nm Wavelength, nm
Figure 11. Min ΣΔR at each wavelength. Figure 12. σ value corresponding to min ΣΔR.
er of the spectral reflectance errors, the σ depends on wavelength (σ3 and σ4) the model parameters σ corresponding
predicted value is closer to the spectral The ΣΔR against each σ of all samples to min ΣΔR are larger, 0.429 and 0.419,
reflectance of the sample. at different wavelengths was calculated, for two-component and three-component
with the σ value also in the range of 0 to samples, respectively. They are more sta-
The calculated ΣΔR against each σ of all 1 in 0.001 increments. The wavelength ble around 425 nm and 625 nm, close to
samples are shown in Figures 7-10. range is 360-720 nm, with 10 nm as the 0.18.
wavelength interval. The relationship be-
From Figures 7 and 9, it can be seen that tween ΣΔR of the σ value and the wave- Colour difference calculation
the value of ΣΔR decreases first and then length is demonstrated by Figure 11. and prediction
Colour difference calculation and prediction
increases with an increase in σ, for both The parameters of the Friele model ob-
two-component and three-component The optimal model parameter σ which tained by the above-mentioned
The parameters methods,
of the Friele model obtained by the abo
samples. When σ is around 0.2, ΣΔR can achieve the smallest colour differ- previously recommended by other re-
is smaller. As can be seen from the en- ence (Min ΣΔR) at each wavelength is searches, are used to predict the are
colour
recommended by other researches, used to predict th
larged view of part A in Figure 7 and determined, as σ3s and σ4s, for two-com- of the sample. The colour difference is
part B in Figure 9, ΣΔR is the smallest ponent and three-component samples, compared and analysed. The CMC (l: c)
for two-component and three-component difference is compared and analysed. The CMC (l: c) col
respectively. The results are shown in colour difference formula is employed to
samples, with σ values of 0.175 and 0.178, Figure 12. The trend of the model pa- calculate the colour difference, as shown
respectively. That is, when σ = 0.175, rameters σ at different wavelengths is the to calculate the colour difference, as shown in Equation 4
in Equation (4) [8-9].
denoted as σ1, the Friele model has the same for both the two-component and 1/ 2
best prediction effect for two-component three-component samples, but the val- L 2 C 2 H 2
ECMC (4)(4)
samples, and when σ = 0.178, denoted as ues are slightly different. The optimised lS L cSC S H
σ2, the prediction effect of the three com- model parameters change rapidly with
ponents is the best. wavelength at about 500 nm. At 500 nm, Where, ΔL, ΔC and ΔH are the bright-
Where, ΔL, ΔC and ΔH are the brightness difference, sat
ness difference, saturation difference and
hue difference, respectively; SL, SC and
Sdifference, respectively; SL, SC and SH are the weight coeff
Table 3. Colour difference between the actual and predicted for two-component samples. H are the weight coefficients of ΔL, ΔC
and ΔH; l , respectively, and c is used for
Pass percentage respectively,
judging the and c is difference
colour used for judging the colour differen
accepta-
σ Color difference
<1 <2 <3 bility among samples, taking 2 or 1, re-
σ1 0.98 66.7% 92.6% 100% spectively.
taking 2 or 1, respectively.
σ3 0.78 74.1% 100% 100%
σ5 1.16 51.2% 88.9% 100% Four kinds
Four of Friele
kinds of model
Friele parameters are
model parameters are calc
σ6 1.12 48.1% 81.5% 100% calculated in this article. When the wave-
length factorfactor
wavelength is notisconsidered, the model
not considered, the model parameter
Table 4. Colour difference between the actual and predicted for three-component samples. parameters are σ1 = 0.175 and σ2 = 0.178
for two-component
two-component and three-compo-
and three-component mixed yarns, respec
Pass percentage nent mixed yarns, respectively. When
σ Colour difference
<1 <2 <3 the wavelength factor is considered, the
σ2 1.62 25% 75% 97.2% is considered, the model parameters of the two-componen
model parameters of the two-component
σ4 1.10 58.3% 86.1% 94.4%
mixed yarn at each wavelength are as-
σ5 2.38 8.3% 44.4% 75% assumed
sumed totobebeσ3σ3and
andfor three-component yarn - σ4. Mo
forthree-component
σ6 1.63 8.3% 83.3% 97.2%
yarn – σ4. Model parameters recommend
researchers are σ5 = 0.245 and σ6 = 0.128 [8-9]. The par
4 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2019, Vol. 27, 5(137)
into the Friele model to predict the reflectivity of the samp