TWO DAYS AWAY: Florence, Alabama

Flair of
FLORENCE
This Alabama small town bursts with eclectic personality garnered from its illustrious
history and its flourishing cultural revival. Elizabeth Bonner |
by John O’Hagan
photography by

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TWO DAYS AWAY: Florence, Alabama
S
ituated on the celebrated
Tennessee River—often called
the Singing River—Florence,
Alabama, exudes a quaint,
unassuming feel despite its well-
established prominence rooted in the
arts—most notably, the musical arts.
Legend has it that early Native American
settlers said the running waters of the
surrounding river sounded like song.
Since then, the region’s musical heritage
has been attributed to the river’s
mythical influence.
“The Shoals,” a four-city area that
encompasses Florence, was the music
industry’s hailed recording hub in the
1960s, claiming artists such as Aretha
Franklin, The Rolling Stones, Paul
Simon, and many more. W.C. Handy,
Father of the Blues, and Sam Phillips and
Buddy Killen, the Fathers of Rock and
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Roll, were all born in Florence.
Recording studios still permeate the
area, and many musicians call the town
home, making it a prime destination for
great live music.
Music tours of The Shoals and sites
like the W.C. Handy Birthplace, Museum
& Library provide a broad introduction
to the area’s musical roots. Still, the city
has much more to offer, with a cultural
scene that extends to remarkable
architecture and artistry. Take a walk—
or a walking tour—around the
Downtown Florence Historic District
and beyond to see streets lined with
lovely antebellum abodes and well-
preserved structures like the iconic
Shoals Theatre. These architectural
attractions blend into the Florence art
culture with spots such as Frank Lloyd
Wright’s renowned Rosenbaum House.
Though small, the city also touts a
diverse shopping scene that ranges from
local artwork to handcrafted goods.
Visitors will even find high-end fashion,
spurred by locals Billy Reid and Natalie
Chanin, internationally acclaimed
fashion designers who brought their
work back home. This world-class
shopping is sure to stoke your appetite,
and the town’s profusion of locally
conscious, contemporary Southern
cuisine doesn’t disappoint.
But save time for soaking in the city’s
beautiful surrounds, from parks and
preserves to tours and trails to sport
fishing and scenic lake cruises on the
Tennessee River. While on the water, be
sure to listen closely—you might hear
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the soothing sounds of the distinctive
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Southern soul that has defined this
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storied town for generations.
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TWO DAYS AWAY: Florence, Alabama

THE FACTORY ROSENBAUM HOUSE

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MY FAVORITE THINGS

W.C. HANDY BIRTHPLACE, MUSEUM & LIBRARY

Despite the city’s thriving music culture today, Florence remembers the musicians who put it on the industry map with distinctive
sites such as the W.C. Handy Birthplace, Museum & Library. William Christopher Handy, whose legacy earned him the title Father
of the Blues, had humble beginnings—born in a simple cabin in Florence in 1873. Visitors can tour the cabin and peruse a large
collection of his personal papers, memorabilia, and artifacts, from handwritten sheets of original tunes to the piano where he
composed successes like “St. Louis Blues,” “Beale Street Blues,” and “Memphis Blues.”

Beyond music, Florence offers a

burgeoning city scene that shares the
spotlight with the charm of tradition. POPE’S TAVERN AND MUSEUM COURT STREET MARKET
There are storied structures like Pope’s
Tavern and Museum, brimming with
relics that tell tales of the Civil War, and
Frank Lloyd Wright’s 1939 Rosenbaum
House, which displays Wright’s
iconic style of American residential
architecture. Such historic sites mingle
with eclectic, contemporary boutiques
and eateries. Find apparel, accessories,
and odds and ends with local flair at
My Favorite Things. While scouring the
Alabama Chanin flagship store, drop by
its in-house restaurant, The Factory, for
fresh seasonal fare showcasing the “new

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Southern kitchen.” Or try Court Street

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Market for a similarly local mentality

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with an assemblage of products ranging

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from olive oil to gourmet popsicles.

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TWO DAYS AWAY: Florence, Alabama

ALABAMA CHANIN

LIMESTONE HOUSE
BED & BREAKFAST
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While a stroll through Florence may
feel like stepping back to sweet
Southern days gone by, it won’t
SHOALS THEATRE be long before you’re immersed in

the city’s booming retail economy,

ODETTE seen in its notable fashion offerings.

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Ecodesigner Natalie Chanin made
Florence the home of Alabama
Chanin’s design and production
studio, where she creates and
sells high-quality, environmentally
conscious home goods and apparel.
A progressive culinary scene is also
emerging with restaurants like
Odette, which features elevated,
modernized Southern cuisine. Still
you’ll find quaint go-to spots like
Sweet Basil Cafe, serving classic
soups, sandwiches, and desserts.

SWEET BASIL CAFE KENNEDY-DOUGLASS

CENTER FOR THE ARTS

The town blends a deep reverence for

its diverse past with a commitment
to continuing its legacies in the
present. Preserved antebellum
homes and historic buildings such
as the Georgian Revival Limestone
House Bed & Breakfast and the
Shoals Theatre have been revamped
to offer impressive modern-day
accommodations and entertainment.

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The Kennedy-Douglass Center for the

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Arts holds rotating exhibits in two

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homes on the National Register of

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Historic Places.

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TWO DAYS AWAY: Florence, Alabama

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While visiting, be sure to stop by
neighboring town Tuscumbia, a fellow
member of “The Shoals” region, for
an inspiring tour of Ivy Green, Helen
Keller’s birthplace and childhood
home. Built in 1820, the simple
white clapboard house became the
miraculous site where Helen, left
blind and deaf from a severe illness
at the age of 19 months, learned to
communicate despite unfathomable
barriers. See the Keller family’s original
furnishings, as well as personal
mementos, gifts, and books from
Helen’s extraordinary life—which
included learning multiple languages
in Braille, writing several books, and
lecturing around the world.
IVY GREEN

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