crochet pattern

Ms. Baby Mouse

design by
Olya Usoltseva
(@olya.usolya)

© Все© INCава
All rightsзащищены
reserved 2021
2020
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Hello! I’m glad that you’ve chosen

this crochet pattern ☺

My name is Olya Usoltseva and I

create toys, which are adored by
children, and which you like
crocheting. In every toy, there is
some part of my heart and soul.

I make up every piece and make

very detailed descriptions with
photos and video to give you an
opportunity to create a toy like
mine and enjoy the process.

Have a great mood and enjoy the process!

Links (social media):

for personal use only @olya.usolya

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THE CROCHET PATTERN IS COPYRIGHT PROTECTED AND IS THE SOLE PROPERTY

OF OLGA USOLTSEVA.

IT IS FORBIDEN:

✓ TO DISTRIBUTE, TRANSMIT TO THIRD PARTIES;

✓ TO COPY (FULLY OR PARTIALLY);

✓ TO BE MADE PUBLICLY AVAILABLE;

✓ TO MAKE VIDEOS USING MATERIALS (FULLY OR PARTIALLY) FROM THIS TUTORIAL;

✓ TO RESELL AND EXCHANGE THE CROCHET PATTERN.

ONE PERSON PURCHASES ONE CROCHET PATTERN IN USE.

YOU ARE WELCOME TO SELL ANY ITEMS YOU MAKE FROM THIS

PATTERN, PROVIDED THEY ARE MADE BY YOU AND NOT

COMMERCIALLY OR MASS PRODUCED.

I WILL BE GLAD IF YOU SPECIFY MY NAME WHILE PUBLISHING THE

PHOTO OF A READY TOY:

«crochet pattern by @olya.usolya»

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Contents
click on the text and you will be redirected to appropriate page
(clickable not in all applications)

LINKS TO THE VIDEOS ................................................. 5

ABBREVIATIONS ................................................................ 8
ARMS......................................................................................... 9
LEGS ...................................................................................... 12
BODY-HEAD ..................................................................... 14
STRAPS ................................................................................. 23
EARS ...................................................................................... 24
NOSE .................................................................................... 24
EYES ...................................................................................... 25
PAD ON THE FACE ..................................................... 27
MUZZLE.............................................................................. 29
TAIL ........................................................................................ 36
BOW ...................................................................................... 37

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This PDF file contains 10 videos. Click on the red icon to

watch the video. Be sure your device has access to the Internet
because the videos are on YouTube.

Links to the videos:

1. BPSC.

2. JOIN TOGETHER FINGERS

3. ATTACHING THUMB.

4. BUCKLE ON THE SHOE.

5. DECREASING GAPS.

6. PAD ON THE FACE.

7. MUZZLE.

8. MOUTH.

9. EMROIDERING PUPIL.

10. TAIL.

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A toy can be made of different types of yarn. It is important to choose the
appropriate hook size:

Alize Cotton Gold/YarnArt

крючков: YarnArt Dolce/
Jeans Himalaya Dolphin Baby
(360 yds./3.5 Oz.)
(131 yds/3,5 Oz.)
Main yarn consumption ~1,7 Oz.
Main yarn consumption ~ 1 skein
(black, pink)
(black, pink)
2 mm hook
3.5 mm hook
Height 17 cm/6.7”
Height 35 cm/13.8”

Alize CG Himalaya DB
187 302
Alize CG Himalaya DB
55 301
YarnArt Jeans Himalaya DB
78 309
YarnArt Jeans Himalaya DB
73 333
Alize CG YarnArt Dolce

236 758
Alize CG Himalaya DB
60 311

* Please, pay attention to the fact that every person has his/her own style
and crochet density. The size of the finished toy may vary from the size
indicated in the pattern.

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MATERIALS & SUPPLIES:

✓ semi-cotton yarn (YarnArt Jeans, Alize Cotton Gold, Gazzal Jeans, etc.):
- white;
- black;
- yellow;
- pink;
- blue;
*depending on your crocheting
- beige;
density, thread tension, crocheting
✓ 2 mm hook;
method (tick / mixed / cross ←
✓ (optional) aluminum/copper wire ~2 mm in
watch the video), you should
diameter for the arms;
correctly choose the hook size. I
ATTENTION! It is not recommended to use
crochet in a mixed way (capture
wire in toys for children under 3 years old. If
on top, then capture on bottom),
you are not sure of the strength of the wire,
strong thread gauge/tension.
then wrap it along the entire length with a
patch, so that even with its fracture, the
sharp ends cannot injure the child.
✓ (optional) band-aid (to wrap wire ends);
✓ 2 yellow buttons;
✓ sewing needle to sew body parts;
✓ stitch markers;
✓ pins with large head;
✓ scissors;
✓ fiber filling;
✓ love.

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ABBREVIATIONS
*U.S. terminology

MR – magic ring;
CH – chain;
SS – slip stitch;
St – stitch;
SC – single crochet;
HDC – half double crochet;
BPSC – back post single crochet;
Pattern Instructions
1. Step 1: Insert hook from the wrong side of the fabric into the
gap to the hook-side of the next stitch to be worked.
2. Step 2: Insert hook from front to back around the post into the
far-side gap.

INC – increase (work 2 stitches in the same St);

DEC – decrease (2SC together through the front loops);
BLO – back loops only;
FLO – front loops only;
(SC, INC)*6 (18) – repeat the combination in brackets 6 times, the
number in brackets is the total number of St in a round.

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First, we are going to crochet arms, as they are going to be attached
in the process of crocheting.

Arms
*first, crochet 6 details (fingers) of white yarn

1. 5 SC in MR;
2. 5 SC;
- fix and cut the thread;

Do you know you could

finish crocheting with a neat,
straight line?

- now crochet one more detail using the same pattern, but do NOT cut the
thread, continue crocheting, joining together 3 fingers:

3 2 1

3. 2 SC on the first finger, 2 SC on the second finger, 5 SC on the third finger,

3 SC on the second finger, 3 SC on the first finger (15);

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4. 15 SC;
- if there are gaps between the fingers, sew them with the thread on the
wrong side;
5. 3 DEC, 9 (12);
- in Round 6 attach the thumb;
- fold the finger in half and crochet it
together in Round 6 on the relevant side (on
the left/on, the right the finger is located
slightly inside the palm, and not strictly on the
side;
- the place of attaching the thumb may differ
from mine; please, be sure to check this area
by markers, because the beginning of the
round may shift differently;
6. right arm: 2 SC, 2 SC with the thumb, 8 SC (12);

left arm: 2 SC with the thumb, 10 SC (12);

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7. 2 DEC, 8 SC (10);
- stuff the palm;
- change color to yellow;
8. 10 SC;
9. BLO: (4 SC, INC)*2 (12);
10-15. 6 rounds 12 SC;
- fix and cut the thread;

- return to Round 9, turn the arm and

work two additional rounds according to
the pattern:
1. FLO: 10 SC;
2. 10 SC
- join the first and the last SC with SS;
- tie the ends of threads and hide them
inside;
- crochet the same second arm.

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Legs:
*start with pink yarn
*stuff in process Principle of crocheting an
0. Chain 6; oval without SS and CH
- work in spiral (without a turning CH and
SS) as in all amigurumi toys (oval-shape
detail);
1. start in the 2nd chain from the hook: 4 SC,
3 SC into the last chain from the hook, on the
other side: 3 SC, INC (12);
2. INC, 3 SC, 3 INC, 3 SC, 2 INC (18);
3. SC, INC, 3 SC, (SC, INC)*3, 3 SC, (SC, INC)*2 (24);
4. 24 ВPSC;

5-6. 2 rounds 24 SC;

- align the stitch marker exactly
in the middle of the heel;
- change color to blue;
7. BLO: 6 SC, 6 DEC, 6 SC (18);
8. 6 SC, 3 DEC, 6 SC (15);
9-10. 2 rounds 15 SC;

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11. (4 SC, INC)*3 (18);
12. (5 SC, INC)*3 (21);
- fasten off on the first leg; it is the left leg of the toy;

- mark 4 loops behind on the heel in the 3 4

1 2
middle in Round 7 to crochet a buckle
for a shoe;

- attach the thread to the second front loop and work 2 turning chains,
then work HDC in the next front loop and work chain 12 (probably it may
be required more or less chain stitches in a series), work more 2 HDC in
the 4th and 3d loops on the heel;

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- join the row with SS, fix the thread and hide both ends inside;

- crochet the same second leg;

- do NOT fasten off on the second leg (right one), work several additional
SC, so that the end of the round is on the inner side (see photo);

- continue crocheting the body;

Body-Head:
*if a wire frame is going to be used, then stuff the legs, but do NOT stuff
the body until the beginning of crocheting the head
*stitch marker is on the back

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*attach both legs to each other and continue crocheting on the left leg
from the side behind according to the pattern:

13. on the left leg: (2 SC, INC)*2, 15 SC, on

the right leg: 15 SC, (INC, 2 SC)*2 (46);

14. (3 SC, INC)*2, 30 SC, (INC, 3 SC)*2 (50);

- if there is a gap between the legs, sew it
with the thread end on the wrong side;

15-20. 6 rounds 50 SC;

- place the stitch marker exactly in the middle
of the back; make sure that the stitch marker is
exactly in the middle behind until the end of
working all increases (if required, shift it);

21. (3 SC, DEC)*2, 30 SC, (DEC, 3 SC)*2 (46);

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22. 46 SC;
23. (2 SC, DEC)*2, 30 SC, (DEC, 2 SC)*2 (42);
- change color to pink;
24. 42 SC;
25. BLO: 42 SC;
- change color to yellow, do NOT cut the pink
threrad, leave it on the front side;
26. BLO: 42 SC;
- do NOT cut the yellow threrad, crochet the skirt
at this stage;
- turn the body upside down, take the left pink
thread in Round 25, attach it to the first
unworked front loop and crochet according to
the pattern:

*round numbering starts over again

1. FLO: (13 SC, INC)*3 (45);
2. (14 SC, INC)*3 (48);
3. (15 SC, INC)*3 (51);
4. (16 SC, INC)*3 (54);
5. 54 SC;

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6. (17 SC, INC)*3 (57);
7. 57 SC;
8. (18 SC, INC)*3 (60);
9. 60 SC;
10. (19 SC, INC)*3 (63);
- fix the thread, cut and hide the thread
between the loops on the wrong side;
- continue crocheting the body in Round 27:
- in Round 27 we are going to attach the arms;
- place the stitch marker exactly in the middle of the back (if required);
- mark 3 SC on each arm (place of attachment);
- thumbs forward;
- for accuracy of attachment mark 3 SC on the sides on the body at a
distance of 16 SC on the chest and 20 SC on the back;
- if required, adjust (shift) the stitch marker in Round 27;

16 SC
3 SC
3 SC

20 SC

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27. 10 SC, 3 SC with the arm, 16 SC, 3 SC with the arm, 10 SC (42);
28. 10 SC, 9 SC on the outer edge of the arm, 16 SC, 9 SC on the outer
edge of the arm, 10 SC (54);
- in order to avoid gaps when shifting from the body to the arm outer
edge contour, I work the already worked SC in Round 27 on the arm inner
attaching side with the first SC on the arm outer contour in Round 28 as a
DEC;
*You can simply sew these gaps on the wrong side of the body;

29. (7 SC, DEC)*6 (48);

30. (6 SC, DEC)*6 (42);

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31. (5 SC, DEC)*6 (36);
32. (4 SC, DEC)*6 (30);
- now you can insert wire in arms and body
(optional), so that their position can be
fixed;
- but the toy can be made without it;

- cut off 2 parts of wire for arms longer

than the arm itself (about one and a
half times), and one part of wire for
head and body (see photo);

- bend the wire ends and wrap them with fabric patch or tape;

- insert the wire pieces into the hands

and body and twist the wire for hands
around the wire for the body;

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- fix the place of twisting with patch;
- stuff well the body and hands so that
the wire inside is fixed;

33. (3 SC, DEC)*6 (24);

34. 24 SC;

- change color to black and start crocheting the head;

- stuff in process;
35. BLO: (SC, INC)*12 (36);
36. (2 SC, INC)*12 (48);
37. 5 SC, INC, (4 SC, INC)*3, 5 SC, INC, (4 SC, INC)*3, 5 SC, INC (57);
38-50. 13 rounds 57 SC;
51. (17 SC, DEC)*3 (54);
52. (7 SC, DEC)*6 (48);
53. (6 SC, DEC)*6 (42);
54. (5 SC, DEC)*6 (36);
55. (4 SC, DEC)*6 (30);

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56. (3 SC, DEC)*6 (24);
How do I usually tighten
57. (2 SC, DEC)*6 (18);
the hole and hide the
58. (SC, DEC)*6 (12); thread end inside.
59. 6 DEC (6);
- tighten the hole, fix the thread and hide it inside.

place of thread
- turn back to Round 26, to front
attachment
loops;
- mark 12 St in the middle of the
chest;

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- attach the thread to the loop on the left from the left stitch marker;
- work 42 SC FLO;

tummy

- join the first and the last St with SS, work

one turning CH, turn and work 2 rows
according to the pattern:
1. 12 SC, a turning CH, turn;
2. skip a St, 9 SC, DEC (10);
- fix the thread, cut and hide it on the
wrong side between the loops.

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Straps:
*pink yarn
* crochet 2 details
- leave a long end at the beginning for sewing;
- work a series of chain stitches, so that its length is slightly longer than the
distance from the back edge of the trousers over the shoulder to the front
edge of the trousers;
- I have a series of 23 CH+2 turning chains = 25 CH;
- start in the 3d chain from the hook: 23 HDC;

- fix the thread and leave a long end for sewing

- sew the straps crisscrossed on the back;
- sew the buttons on the straps in front.

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Ears:
*crochet 2 details
*black yarn
*don’t stuff

1. 6 SC in MR;
2. 6 INC (12);
3. (SC, INC)*6 (18);
4. (2 SC, INC)*6 (24);
5. (3 SC, INC)*6 (30);
6-8. 3 rounds 30 SC;
9. (3 SC, DEC)*6 (24);
10. (2 SC, DEC)*6 (18);
11. (SC, DEC)*6 (12);
12. 6 DEC;
- fix the thread and leave a long end for
sewing;
- at this stage, you can sew the ears, or sew
them at the end of the face design.

Nose:
*black yarn

0. Chain 4;
- work in spiral (without a turning CH and SS);

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1. start in the 2nd chain from the hook: 2 SC, 3 SC into the last
chain from the hook, on the other side: 1 SC, INC (8);
2. 8 SC;
- fix the thread and leave a long end for
sewing.

Eyes:
*white yarn
*crochet 2 details
0. Chain 7;
- work in spiral;
1. start in the 2nd chain from the hook: 5 SC,
3 SC into the last chain from the hook, on the
other side: 5 SC (13);
- don’t join the round, leave a long end for
sewing;
- embroider the pupil with black thread on
the left/on the right and glare with white
thread;

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- if you crochet a toy of plush yarn, then there may be a problem with
embroidering the pupil. Then crochet the pupil of black yarn according to
the pattern: Chain 4, start in the 2nd chain from the hook: 3 SC;
- sew along the contour and embroider glare.

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Pad on the face:

*beige yarn
0. Chain 8;
- work in spiral (without a turning CH and SS);
1. start in the 2nd chain from the hook: 6 SC, 3 SC into the last chain from
the hook, on the other side: 5 SC, INC (16);
2. INC, 5 SC, 3 INC, 5 SC, 2 INC (22);
3. SC, INC, 5 SC, (SC, INC)*3, 5 SC, (SC, INC)*2 (28);
- fix and cut the thread;
- crochet the same second detail, but do NOT cut the tread, continue
crocheting;
- put two details side by side and mark the joining line of 6 SC of the
details on each of them in the middle, so that this line is shifted up to the
beginning of crocheting (see photo);
6 SC

6 SC

1 detail 2 detail

- work until the first stitch marker on the

second detail and move to the first
detaill;

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- work 22 SC until the next stitch marker and move to the second detail;

- work 22 SC untill the joining of the two details, then fold the details in
half face to face and work together the joining line in the middle with SS;

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- fix the thread and leave a long end
for sewing.

Muzzle:
*beige yarn

1. 6 SC in MR;
2. (SC, INC)*3 (9);
3. 3 INC, 6 SC (12);
4. (SC, INC)*3, 6 SC (15);
5. (2 SC, INC)*3, 6 SC (18);
6. (3 SC, INC)*3, don’t work until the end (15);
- don’t fasten off, take the thread end from the other end of the skein,
attach it with SS to the 12th SC from the hook in the reverse direction (to
the first INC) and work chain 5, cut the thread;

12 SC

- continue crocheting:
- chain 6, turn and then work turning
rows;

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7. start in the 2nd chain from the hook: 5 SC on the chain, 11 SC on the
muzzle FLO, 5 SC on the second chain, a turning chain, turn (21);

8. 21 SC, a turning chain, turn;

9. skip a St, 18 SC, DEC, a turning chain, turn (19);
10. skip a St, 16 SC, DEC (17);
- turn the detail on the side and crochet the detail around the semicircle
contour until Row 10;
- fix the thread and leave a long end for sewing;

- turn the detail upside down, and starting from the right unworked front
loop in Row 7 crochet the lower lip according to the pattern:

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FLO: SS, 8 SC, SS, do NOT work the last loop;
- fix and cut the thread, hide the thread ends from the wrong side;

- sew the nose to the tip of the muzzle (above the MR on the muzzle), so
that it is raised up (see photo);

When sewing details from plush yarn, it is desirable to use

cotton yarn to match the plush one.

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- now attach all the details on the head with pins;

- remove the muzzle, sew eyes to the pad

on the face;
- then sew the pad itself;

- slightly stuff the nose area of the

muzzle and fix the detail well,
especially the upper and side lines, so
that when sewing, the muzzle does not
shift;

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- sew along the contour, stuff the cheeks a bit in the process;
- DO NOT stuff the chin (area below the lip);

- embroider a stitch over the lip line with a red thread, and on top -
embroider a stitch with a black thread;

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- embroider black lines with a thin thread around the eye upper edge to
highlight the contour of the eye; fix bend of contour with stitch;

fixing stitch

- embroider with black thin

thread eyelashes;

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- sew the ears about 6 rounds lower

from the tightened hole in the head.

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Tail (optional):
- crochet with black semi-cotton
thread;
- for a cotton yarn toy: use the thread two
times thinner than the main yarn and a 1 mm
hook;
- for a plush yarn toy: use the thread similar
to Alize Cotton Gold and a 2 mm hook;
- crochet the cord, as shown in the video:
crochet SC using two threads - first we take
the lower thread, then -the upper thread;
- crochet up to the desired length;
- sew it.

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Bow:
*pink yarn
*make a turn and work 2 turning CH at the end of each row

0. Chain 36 +2 turning CH = 38 CH;

1. start in the 3d chain from the hook: 36 HDC;
2-6. 5 rows 36 HDC;

- fold in half and crochet the sides together with SS;

- fix the thread and leave a long

end to wrap;
- wrap in the middle with thread
and tie ends;

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- crochet the middle of the bow: chain 14, cnart in the 2nd chain from the
hook: 13 SC;
- fix the thread and leave a long end to sew;

- wrap the bow with this detail in the middle and sew the edges;
- sew the bow on the head.

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That’s all! Your baby mouse is ready!

I was glad to help you in its creation.
See you!

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