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Hanan

Ibrahim
The Australian
model using
fashion and
faith to
create change

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January 2023

On the cover
Hanan Ibrahim wears a Louis Vuitton dress with
hood, and top. Tiffany & Co. earrings and bracelets.
Make-up by Estée Lauder starting with Double Wear
Stay-In-Place Makeup SPF 10 in 6W2 Nutmeg; on
cheeks, Estée Lauder Bronze Goddess Powder Bronzer
in Medium Deep; on cheeks, Estée Lauder Bronze
Goddess Highlighting Powder Gelée in Heatwave; on
eyes, Estée Lauder Sumptuous Rebel Length
+ Lift Mascara; on lips, Estée Lauder Pure Color
Revitalizing Crystal Balm in Hope Crystal.
Stylist: Miguel Urbina Tan.
Photographer: Bananas Clarke.
Hair: Nisha Van Berkel.
Make-up: Isabella Schmid.

23Editor’s letter 43 Two’s company 54 Unlock the rules


26Contributors Australian writer Bre Graham reflects Tiffany & Co.’s new Lock collection
on the magic of a table for two. underscores a modern way to shine:
gold and gems first, gender last.
30A place in the sun 44 Open house
Summer style returns in blazing form. This New Zealand beach cottage 56 Self portrait
provides fantasy living all year round. How I See It: Blak Art and Film
36 Major league is a new exhibition at Melbourne’s
The current wave of sportif 49 Copenhagen ACMI celebrating First Nations
influences has fashion displaying Neada Deters offers her tips for creatives working in fields of
a heightened fanaticism. the Scandinavian style hotspot. performance and image-making.
Three young artists featured
38 Gaining traction 50 State of mind in the show share their vision in
Matthew Williams’s bubblegum Coach and psychologist Dr Jodie their own words.
Lowinger shares her method for
summer wedges for Givenchy.
reaching your personal peak. 58 Ilana Moses
We ask fashion insiders to curate their
40 Bright side 53
LACHLAN BAILEY

Living large world through style. The founder of


Designer and creative Lucy Hinckfuss A new book on the homes of the late clothing store Grace Melbourne and
is striking out on her own with Yves Saint Laurent is a window into the its new location in Brighton, shares
a vibrant, summer-ready label. fantasy world of an extraordinary life. summer favourites from near and far.

14 Vogue January 2023


REVERSO
DUETTO
Shop 4/84 King St, Sydney NSW 2000, P: (02) 9061 4520
86 Collins St, Melbourne VIC 3000, P: (03) 9094 5838
January 2023

60 Centre stage 108 Country strong


Since playing Princess Margaret on When First Nations women met
The Crown, Vanessa Kirby has gone at a forum unlike any other, they
from strength to strength. Now, she’s weren’t only creating a shared vision
ready for her next big project. of the future but safeguarding it via
a new generation of self-empowered
62 Light fantastic custodians destined to make change.
From designers to directors including
Steven Spielberg, Sam Mendes and 112 Treasure island
Damien Chazelle, the worlds of As Dolce & Gabbana marks 10 years
fashion and film are all celebrating of Alta Moda, the Italian house takes
the magic of the movies right now. over Sicily for a baroque-inspired
celebration of heavenly couture.
64 True demand
Sunglasses made from plants, a local 116 Swept away
label doing away with waste, and Take a wanderer’s route in fashion
the latest in ethical fashion. that speaks of unending days away
in haphazard layers, free-spirited
67 Bella vita dresses and romantic details to
Milan-based architect and designer transport a mood.
Luca Bombassei takes high-summer
style cues from the Italian riviera. 126 Heat rising
Nice try, summer. Humidity and heat
73 Fashion faithful normally nix our plans for perfect-
Somali-Australian model Hanan looking hair, skin and make-up, but
Ibrahim is used to challenging fashion we’ve got a survival strategy in place.
and religious stereotypes. Now,
sharing her decision to wear a hijab on 132 True star
her own terms, she writes of her desire Authenticity is central to everything
to embrace both sides of her identity. Trinny Woodall does, and at 58 years
young, the make-up and now skincare
86 All in the bag maven shares her truth, tips and tricks
A bag that speaks to the power of for looking your best at any age, and
fashion and an Italian empire, the especially during midlife.
136 Fendi Baguette stars in an anniversary
collection that brought together a cast 134 Clear advantage
of cultural icons under the visionary Keep lips supple with a slick of any
direction of Kim Jones. one of these luxurious moisturisers
for balmy days and nights ahead.
92 Lost and found
During a tumultuous childhood in 136 Endless summer
Russia, Natalia Vodianova and her As days heat up, hemlines rise and
HENRIK PURIENNE, EMMA SUMMERTON, ELLEN VIRGONA

youngest sister, Jenna, were separated glorious glowing skin is on full display.
by adoption. Two decades later, We reveal how to get the most out of
DNA testing brought about your seasonal complexion.
a grateful, unexpected reunion.
138 Soiree
96 Game changer
Ajla Tomljanović comes into the 140 Back in fashion
Australian Open after her most Sydney and Melbourne were out in
successful year, having made two force to celebrate fashion’s big night.
Grand Slam quarterfinals in 2022
and defeating Serena Williams. 143 Horoscope
112 Here, she speaks to Jelena Dokic
about what inspired her killer form. 144 Final note

18 Vogue January 2023


Edwina McCann
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Deputy Editor JESSICA MONTAGUE
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20 Vogue January 2023


S H O T O N L O C A T I O N I N F L O R E N C E , I T A LY

L U X E L E AT H E R T R AV E L G O O D S F O R T H E E V E R Y D AY WA N D E R E R W A N D E R E R S T R AV E L C O . C O M
Editor’s letter
Heralding a new year provides the opportunity to renew and refresh; to leave a year behind
and embrace new possibilities with a sense of optimism.
With that in mind, we’d like to introduce you to Hanan Ibrahim, the Somali-Australian
model who graces our cover this month in what can only be described as a paradigm-
shifting story. Hanan has been building her career as a model in recent years, both within
these pages and on the runways of Australian fashion week, proudly wearing her hijab and
challenging stereotypes while highlighting the importance of visibility for Muslim women
in the fashion industry.
In recent months she has made the empowering decision to become a fluid hijabi, meaning
she now only wears her head covering part-time. In honour of her decision, and the conversation
it encourages about self-expression, freedom of choice, identity and interpretations of modern
womanhood, we asked her to participate in a shoot that captures her both with and without
her hijab. By all accounts, it was a powerful and emotional day on set, with Hanan opening
herself up like never before and the crew feeling they had been part of something special.
The fact that Hanan stands up for a woman’s choice to wear a hijab on her own terms
is particularly poignant given that – even in 2023 – many women around the world are
still facing oppression at the hands of others or watching their freedoms come under threat.
This is most evident in Iran where so many brave women continue to risk their lives to
stand up for the right to self-expression.
“Unfortunately for many globally, a woman’s dress sense is a matter controlled by
external forces, whether by communities whose views derive from rigid interpretations of
religious texts, or from opposing radical and secular societies that fail to respect the agency
of women altogether,” Hanan writes in a personal essay on page 73. “Choosing to wear
a hijab or not is a matter of individual choice. It is not a decision to be made by others.”
It is a privilege to have Hanan share her story about fashion and faith this January.
May you find yourself being inspired by the strength, conviction and innate elegance of
a woman who truly knows herself as you begin your own new year.

EDWINA MC CANN Editor-in-chief

Vogue January 2023 23


As innovative as it is intuitive: the Mercedes-Benz
MBUX Hyperscreen with artificial intelligence.

I N N O VA T I O N S B Y
Overseas model shown. Vehicle shown not currently available in Australia.
Contributors

EDWARD BOWLEG MARLEY MORGAN MIGUEL URBINA TAN JELENA DOKIC


Ahead of the Australian In the May 2022 issue, “This cover feels like we are To mark the 2023 Australian
Open this year, our top- photographer Marley Morgan on a precipice of cultural Open, former world number
ranked female tennis player was part of the Indigenous progression in Australia, four and now commentator
Ajla Tomljanović flew shadow program that particularly in fashion,” says Jelena Dokic interviewed
from her base in Florida to followed Vogue Australia’s Vogue’s acting fashion and 29-year-old tennis star Ajla
New York to be captured creative team as they worked market editor Miguel Urbina Tomljanović. Calling on her
exclusively by Vogue. “I was on the special all-Indigenous Tan of shooting Melbourne- own extensive knowledge of
certainly more conscious of fashion cover. This month, based model Hanan Ibrahim the sport, Dokic bonded with
the fact that we were shooting she swaps from mentee to for the first time without Tomljanović over their shared
an athlete, in regards to what mentor as she attends the wearing her hijab. Tan passion for tennis. “It felt like
I selected,” says Edward annual Strong Women for recognises how momentous two friends just chatting …
Bowleg of his styling in Healthy Country forum the moment was for Ibrahim, It was great to talk about the
‘Game changer’, from page with model and budding who has recently made the big year she had [in 2022],”
96. “In knowing that she was photographer Cindy Rostron. decision to wear her hijab says Dokic, who is currently
open to experimenting, I took “It was my first time visiting part-time. “When Hanan working on a second book,
things to propose to her that Ross River, but it didn’t take looked at herself on the as well as a documentary
may not be pieces she would long to fall in love with the monitor in the Saint Laurent based on her 2018 memoir,
wear in her ordinary life,” he incredibly stunning country dress and said to me, ‘This is Unbreakable. “We covered
recalls. An inspiring sense of up that way,” Morgan says of the first time I have seen my her highs and lows and Ajla
raw strength pervades each her experience capturing the arms in a picture,’ I asked was very honest with her
look, as Tomljanović changes event for ‘Country strong’, how she felt and she said fears and mistakes, which is
from a Ralph Lauren shirt from page 108. “Equally as ‘amazing’. That moment really very refreshing to hear.”
into a well-tailored Gucci beautiful were the women stuck with me,” Tan recalls.
suit. “We wanted to keep I was privileged to listen The stylist also remembers
Ajla in fashion but give a to and learn from, such a moment with Ibrahim that
nod to her athleticism,” he powerful matriarchs with left him in awe. “When she
continues. “Honestly, her immense knowledge of their started to move in front of
willingness and openness in respective Country.” Joined the camera, I felt like I was
allowing us to transform her by writer Nina Fitzgerald, witnessing a woman express
was very refreshing. She was the three creatives were herself through modelling,”
so relaxed and had a great moved by the group’s shared he says. “It was pure magic.”
energy the entire day – and vision of Healthy Country.
managed to do so in a four- “Hearing the inspirational
inch heel the entire time.” stories of cultural and
environmental conservation
was an affirmation of our
responsibility as a people to
care for Country. The wider
Australian audience has a lot
to learn from Indigenous
women,” says Morgan.
PHOTOGRAPHS: JOE BRENNAN, ANTONI CIUFO
WORDS: ANGELICA XIDIAS.

26 Vogue January 2023


It starts with yes
Ultimate edit

A place
Summer style returns in blazing form. Sign up in the essential
trends to harness the heat of the moment. By ALICE BIRRELL.

Swim star
Taking the plunge
in the skin-baring
mood of the season is
easier with Chanel’s
90s-feel monochrome
string bikini.

HAIR: PETE LENNON MAKE-UP: JASMINE ABDALLAOUI MODEL: ANISSA BAKHTI

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SHOT ON LOCATION AT BARMILANO, MAROUBRA BEACH

PHOTOGRAPHS STYLING
ELLEN VIRGONA H A RRIET CR AWFORD

30
in the sun
Max effect
A resort-ready
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making for hyper-
hued twists on
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Neutral stance
Camels and tans are
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worn the new way: in
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with demure accessories.
MISSONI
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OSCAR DE LA RENTA
bracelet, $1,105.

Full spectrum
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KURT GEIGER
boots, $550.

MOSCHINO belt, $440.

STAUD dress, $499.


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ELLEN VIRGONA

PUCCI bikini top, $275.


Ultimate edit

Short order
Tailoring has been
taking hems higher
recently, so it’s little
surprise a short suit
that borrows from the
Bermuda is the rule-
breaking silhouette
for high summer.

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THOM BROWNE shorts, $2,320. NANUSHKA shorts, $480. AGOLDE shorts, $245. CARHARTT shorts, $175.

34
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pants, $1,035.

CHRISTIAN DIOR
sweater, $5,000. HOLZWEILER top, $275. VALENTINO shorts, $2,380. ,$ ,

Vogue January 2023 35


Viewpoint

Major league
Sport and style have long been good bedfellows, but the current wave of sportif
influences has fashion displaying a heightened fanaticism. By ALICE BIRRELL.

C
asting around outside the But it’s not just soccer scoring goals. The latter is what fashion influencer
shows of late, you’d be Aerodynamic cycling glasses, motorcycle and content creator Irina Kro Eicke
forgiven for thinking jackets in racing brights, riding boots wore to a summer gallery opening.
you’d crossed paths with ready for showjumping at Dior and “When I attended the Private Policy
football fans on their way grand-prix inspired jumpsuits at show [at New York Fashion Week],
home from a match. Or motorsports Chanel, alongside high-performance I wore a white sporty hoodie paired
die-hards, revved up for a day trackside. flight jackets, are all in the race. with a midi denim skirt from American
And are those tennis enthusiasts head- While we got cosy with tracksuits in Vintage and off-white blue denim over-
to-toe in blinding Wimbledon whites? the pandemic, this time the look comes the-knee boots from Naked Wolfe,”
In Paris? In September? A second glance with a glamorous patina. “People have she remembers of another go-to outfit.
reveals these supporters are pairing moved out of their covid-comfort “If I’m not dressed in a head-to-toe
rugby stripes with sky-high Balenciaga lounge sets and are ready to play in look, I’m styling my Nagnata knits
boots, hoodies with sleek white maxis, the real world again, so we’re seeing back with suiting and denim, sneakers
1980s shell jackets with shoes from The more of an elevated athletic street and sandals – and heels by night,”
Row, and that tracksuit? Vintage Gucci. style,” says Laura May Gibbs, founder shares Gibbs, while Brand says ballet
Fashion’s total re-embrace of sports of Byron Bay label Nagnata, which flats count as part of the trend, being in
influences is not just a natural go-round blends fashion and activewear. step with the growing spotlight on
of the trend cycle – long has the athletic “I’ve seen micro mini-skirts, traditionally female athletic pursuits.
been a rich vein of design inspiration – reinterpreted college sweats and cable “Obviously Miu Miu,” she says of which
but a confluence of many forces. knits styled with suiting and denim,” labels to buy into, “but I also love the
Instead of philosophising on complex Gibbs continues. She highlights the more minimal takes from Aeyde and
social mores, Felicity Brand, head of concurrent rise of sporting-adjacent Margiela’s Tabi flats.”
branding and merchandising at local style, the kind pioneered by doyen of If you’ve never dabbled, the time’s
luxury multi-brand store Mode Sportif, prep Ralph Lauren. That same feel, now to give it a sporting chance.
attributes the trend’s home run to the extending to American collegiate style,
uncurtailed return of in-person is infiltrating fashion once more with
sporting events – this month’s Australian letterman jackets and tennis skirts led
Open for one – noting an increased by Miu Miu’s blockbuster abbreviated
appetite for what we missed in lockdown white box-pleat rendition (if you need
and the rise of female sporting codes. proof, the hashtag #tennisskirts has
“Women’s sport is finally receiving 153 million views on TikTok).
much attention. Australia’s Matildas “Renewed interest in the royal family
are getting paid the same as the – [look at] Instagram accounts such
Socceroos, and in England the historic as @ladydirevengelooks chronicling
win for women’s football in the Euro Princess Diana’s preppy style – have
final was watched by a record number started to circulate in the media,”
of people,” she says. Brand also cites the notices Brand, who says 90s
launch of HermèsFit, an interactive minimalism and all-American prep
gym experience from the typically are sharing a moment, traded on
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understated French brand late last year by emerging brands such as S.S.
COURTESY MIU MIU, SRAVYA BALASA, MAXIMILIAN EICKE

and the wildly successful sport-fashion Daley and Connor Ives. “Carolyn Serving looks
hook-up of Adidas with, among others, Bessette-Kennedy is the poster child Flex your sportif style muscle as
Balenciaga, Gucci and Wales Bonner. of 90s Ralph Lauren and Calvin
Ralph Lauren returns for its third
GORUNWAY.COM, JOEL PICCININI, UNSPLASH

The latter reworked the sell-out $120 Klein minimalism.”


Samba sneaker to great success. Which brings us to the newest spin: year as official outfitter of the
Originally created as a futsal shoe in sports couture. Dubbed athluxury by Australian Open with a new
1949, it has ridden waves of popularity, US Vogue, it’s positioning sport against capsule collection. Blending the
including in 1990s English football a backdrop of polished glamour – think American icon’s elegance with
culture, but never so much as today; now stilettos with Versace basketball shorts
the vitality of our premier tennis
a fashion grail and sometimes resold for and sharp blazer for night, or sneakers
upwards of $1,000, fuelled by its status with an oversized Nagnata track-and- tournament, it’s available
as go-to for super-influencers Bella field jumper and heart-shaped heels, at stores, on-ground and
Hadid, Rihanna and Hailey Bieber. taking it to a new level of sophistication. at ralphlauren.com.au.

36
LOUIS VUITTON RESORT ’23
VERSACE RESORT ’23

NAGNATA
bodysuit, $345.

A look from
the Adidas
x Balenciaga
collaboration
for resort ’23.

A tennis-
inspired look
from Marine
Serre who held
her resort ’23
Irina Kro Eicke collection on
in Nagnata. a sports field.

Vogue January 2023 37


Gaining traction
High-glamour holiday gets a futuristic edge in Matthew
Williams’s summer wedges for GIVENCHY. In an array
of bubblegum colours, expect these to stick around.
A piece of you since 1972.
NEW COLLECTION • AVAILABLE NOW
Bright side
After years of a public creative and
personal partnership, designer LUCY
HINCKFUSS is striking out solo with a
summer-ready label. By ALICE BIRRELL.

W
hen Lucy Hinckfuss began tie-dyeing pieces
by hand in her Sydney studio for new label
Luuda, a stylist friend asked if she writes
down exactly what she puts into each coloured
concoction. “I said, ‘No, I just remember it.’
And she said, ‘What?’” she recounts with a laugh. “It’s a little
bit like the way I cook; I don’t really follow recipes.”
Hinckfuss’s life incidentally has had a strong food link; until
late 2021, she was married to restaurateur Maurice Terzini,
helmsman of Bondi’s Icebergs among other venues, with whom
she shares two children, and is co-founder of clothing label
Ten Pieces. While Hinckfuss was collaborating on its
monochromatic unisex streetwear, she began exploring tie-
dyed dresses with a modern slant. “There was, however, perhaps
a feeling they confused the Ten Pieces brand,” she reflects.
Demand grew among friends and, “it was clear that it was its
own little collection”, she says. Luuda launched mid-2021.
Hinckfuss doesn’t often stop to parse her own creative output
but says she’s enjoying newfound freedom. “And being able to
really do things in my own way. It’s good because I do like
making things quite instinctively and I can just really get into
all that in my own mind and not have to deliberate with others.”
So, what does Lucy Hinckfuss’s solo output look like now?
“I’ve been a little bit more imaginative, and more playful,”
she says confidently. In a real sense, that means summer-
Lucy Hinckfuss. inflected pieces in clean shapes from relaxed shorts with
drawstring waists and bowling shirts, to sundresses with the
occasional flourish: a sweeping ruffle or balloon sleeve.
“I look feminine, but I’m not. I don’t want to be too pretty
or girly,” she explains of her penchant for blending opposites
– hard and soft, dressed-up and grounded, tie-dyed and block
colour. “I like things to have a certain amount of classic, but
then it also needs to be a bit fresh and a bit realistic. I think
I always dressed very appropriately for where we live and our
lifestyle. I think it has that high-low feel about it, which is
part of living in Bondi.”
So is colour, like the aquatic blues that mirror crystalline
ALL PRICES APPROXIMATE DETAILS AT VOGUE.COM.AU/WTB

rockpools and juicy ice-block shades from pastels to bold


sun-kissed brights. “Everyone loves a bit of colour,” she says.
Every tie-dye piece is hand-done by Hinckfuss herself. That’s
a lot of work. “It is,” she laughs. “I do sometimes go into
Terminator mode and get quite a bit done, but I will be needing
to start to get help because it’s getting bigger and bigger.”
Orders from Harvey Nichols have seen to that, plus she’s
pondering a runway show and bricks and mortar store, while
DARREN L, DUNCAN KILLICK

working on one-off reworks with vintage fabrics. Through this,


she’s working at her own pace. “I probably am doing it more
from a personal perspective – something that suits me. I’m
producing things which are very, sort of, about me, rather than
things that are about selling and what other people like,” she
considers. “But then, it’s seeming to work well in that way too.”

40 Vogue January 2023


Essay

Two’s company
When Australian writer BRE GRAHAM moved to London, the thing she missed
the most was intimate meals with her closest loved ones. Now, on the eve of the
release of her debut book, she reflects on the magic of a table for two.
he start of a new year always

T
All I wanted, and what I missed and as I sautéed onions in butter and
makes me sentimental. I like the most, were moments like a quick roughly chopped garlic we drank wine
to spend time looking back weekday lunch with my mum. Always and talked about all the big things
on the 12 months passed and a thickly sliced tomato sprinkled with that feel too important to say over the
every year the memories that flaky salt on hot buttered toast with phone. By the time the first bottle of
mean the most to me are always the a mug of tea nearby. Those sorts of meals wine was long gone and the seafood
ones centred around sitting at a table that seem so insignificant and didn’t had simmered in its sauce of tomatoes,
with someone I love. If given a choice involve elaborate planning and airline fennel and chilli, we packed a bag
to relive moments of my life over again, tickets were what I thought about and went to the beach. We laid out
it’s not the seemingly big ones that I’d every time I sat solo on my sofa for the like lizards on the rocks of the ladies’
want to step back into or experience third night in a row. Being able to live baths in Coogee where I used to swim
once more. I would want to be able and importantly eat in the same time as a child and when the waves reached
to sit back down at a small our rocks with the rising
Parisian cafe with my mum tide, we walked home to
on the first trip that was just eat mangoes while still in
the two of us, when we our swimsuits.
marked each sunset with Making an effort to plan
a glass of champagne, or be something special to cook
19 again for just one evening and eat for just one other
so I could share a tub of dark person has been at the core
chocolate ice-cream with of so many of my friendships
my best friend when we throughout my life. While
were celebrating her first most people’s first thoughts
role on the West End. about making an elaborate
Year after year, so many meal for two or wanting to
moments in my life that light a candle and set a table
I want to keep close are goes to romantic love, the
spent with someone special food I’ve cooked and shared
at a table for two. with the women in my life
There are times for tables has always felt imbued with
of 10, solo self-love meals, the most romance to me.
and dinner parties that Sure, cooking is one of
end on a dance floor, but the “languages of love”, but
a table for two is something it’s also a way of showing
special. The intimacy and someone that you really see
immediacy of sitting with them. When words don’t
someone and enjoying quite work, when you want
a meal made with love can make the zone as the people I love the most is to make someone feel like everything
noise of the outside world calm and something I don’t take for granted each will be okay, when you want to show
quiet. Maybe it’s the introvert in me, year when I’m back home in Australia. someone that their joy is your joy, you
but I would choose a night of cooking So, every year when I’d come home can cook. The time that we spend at the
for someone I care about over a party for Christmas, what I wanted to do table throughout our lives celebrating,
in a room full of strangers. was cook for those I’d missed. On one crying, laughing and kissing is what
Originally from Sydney, I’ve lived lazy afternoon in the days between keeps us going.
ILLUSTRATION: JOEY GUIDONE

in London for the past 10 years. Christmas and New Year’s Day, I Life is short, make those traditions,
Sometimes I think it’s the distance carried home armfuls of Australian take risks, cook for people you care for
that has determined why I feel the way seafood from the fish market, like and keep the people who are important
I do about tables for two and cooking Balmain bugs, pale slips of squid and close this year.
for the people I love the most. For so prawns, to cook something spectacular Bre Graham is the author of Table for
long living here, life was lonely. A lot for my best friend. It had been 18 Two (Dorling Kindersley, $49.99), on
of homesickness and a lot of heartache. months since we’d last seen each other sale February 28.

Vogue January 2023 43


Open house
For creative couple OPHELIA and RYDER JONES, a beach shack-style
cottage on the coastline of New Zealand’s North Island provides fantasy
living all year round. By JONAH WATERHOUSE.
Who:
Artist and
photographer
OPHELIA JONES,
artist and designer
RYDER JONES and
their son, EMANUEL.

Where:
Tairua, on the
east coast of the
Coromandel
Peninsula, North
Island, New Zealand.

What:
A former sculptor’s
studio converted into
a cottage for the
family of three.

“We particularly love cooking,


and this is a little meal I made
for us …” says Ophelia.

The reading corner used for winding down features a

A
n hour east of Auckland lies some of the special cushion. “This chest, my mum gave to us for
our wedding present and is full of sentimental
world’s most pristine coastal farmland, where things,” says Ophelia. “Ryder was born in Hawaii,
rolling green hills meet the Pacific Ocean’s and the papaya vase (top shelf) was bought by his
boundless expanse. Despite the popularity mum in Kauai while she was really pregnant.”

of the Coromandel Peninsula as a holiday


destination, it’s rare to hear an Australian accent in the
small town of Tairua, according to artist Ophelia Jones,
who lives there with her husband, Ryder Jones, and their
one-year-old son. Looking at the sweeping landscapes that
surround their quaint cottage, a former shed at the base of
emerald foothills a 10-minute drive from the beach, it is
difficult to imagine any part of the outside world intruding
on this visual dreamscape.
“It was a private sale, so the photos were really bad,”
Ophelia says of finding the home two years ago on Trade Me,
New Zealand’s equivalent of ecommerce website Gumtree.
“My parents went to visit, and they called us after two hours
and said, ‘I think we found it.’ We moved in about two and
a half weeks later.”
Once in, Ophelia and Ryder went to work reinvigorating
the three acres of land, from planting a vegetable garden
(“the possums like to eat my spinach!” Ophelia says with
a laugh) to mowing a lawn that stretches down to a nearby
creek. Doors to the outside are always ajar, but between →

Vogue January 2023 45


Style space A doorway opens out to the expansive garden.
“On that beautiful lacework curtain right in the
middle, there’s a family tree,” Ryder explains.
“I think I got that for you on Valentine’s Day
while I was pregnant. I loved the idea [of it] …
a stitched tree of life,” Ophelia quips.

the green-painted timber walls lies more magic in the form


of the small family’s idiosyncratic belongings.
Ophelia’s visual eye is a respected one; she shot good friend
Lorde for the cover of the singer’s 2021 album Solar Power,
which saw the musician skipping over the camera in the
shadow of the New Zealand sun. Similar elation is palpable
in the affirmative messages placed around the house, from
romantic letters penned by Ryder to artwork that says, Sun is
shining, the weather is sweet.
“We’re highly sentimental,” Ophelia says, later adding
that “a lot of our stuff is [a mix of] something nice, and then “The man who makes these glasses for his
something from the side of the road.” By the indoor kitchen company Grinter Glass lives an hour’s drive
from us. We always buy them for people.”
is a dining area with a tiled table built by Ryder, and next to
it, an ornate lamp Ophelia’s parents “had in their bedroom
all of my childhood”. The couple’s explanations of each item Ophelia’s “extremely overgrown and wild vegetable patch”.
“Ryder has mowed this beautiful patch of lawn – we’re on three
provide all kinds of insight, but few more than the “special acres of land, and we’re very lucky to have all this native bush
pillow” in the small reading nook, which is a gift from Ella that borders the back of the property,” she says.
Yelich-O’Connor – Lorde’s real name, for the uninitiated.
“Ella said to me, ‘Give us three words you want to represent
the baby,’” Ophelia says of the piece, a custom-embroidered
cushion by New York brand Bode. “We said marigolds,
because we gave away marigold seeds at our baby shower
that we collected from our garden. On the other side there’s a
dolphin, and also seashells and angels, and [Emanuel’s] name
on a shell.” It’s a home in harmony with both its inhabitants
and the natural beauty of the world that surrounds it. ■

46
The new family go to the beach “as
much as possible, all the time, rain,
hail or shine”. “Since we work
from home, it’s like, supermarket
or beach outing?” Ryder says.

The long patio also doubles as a skateboarding spot for


one-year-old Emanuel. Wildf lowers are also starting to bloom
at the corners, adding further charm. “Right in the foreground
you can see that little purple bush has seeded out of the white
gravel … I’m stoked they’re starting to pop out,” says Ryder.
DEREK HENDERSON

Vogue January 2023 47


Have updates on fashion,
luxury, design, architecture,
food, travel, art and more
from Australia and around
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weekly newsletter.
Hideaway

Brunch: “Atelier
September. They make
the perfect soft-boiled
egg and rye bread
with spiralled
Malene Birger dress. Comté cheese”.

Hotel Sanders.

Ordrupgaard
Museum.

Perfect Saturday Favourite place to


morning: “Cycle to stay: “Hotel Sanders,
Lille Bakery for coffee a boutique hotel
and a pastry before which is the perfect
strolling to La Banchina balance of elegance
to swim and sauna.” and hygge. The
location is central,
the service excellent,
and rooms are
comfortable.”

I Love Beauty.

Copenhagen
NEADA DETERS, Australian founder of sustainable skincare brand LESSE, recently
INSTAGRAM @ATELIERSEPTEMBER, @HOTELSANDERS, @LILLEBAKERY

travelled to the Danish style capital and shares her tips for the Scandinavian hotspot.
INTERVIEW: HANNAH-ROSE YEE PHOTOGRAPHS: NEADA DETERS

Coffee: “Prolog, which has a relaxed in this exploration of his home, you see born and incredibly talented. After
outdoor area – a perfect spot to start how he lived by the design philosophies working at Gordon Ramsay and Noma,
the day with a flat white and croissant.” that defined his work.” he opened Iluka – a celebration of local
Shopping: “I Love Beauty, a small Bar: “Natural wine bar Pompette, Scandinavian seafood – a few years ago.”
boutique dedicated to the best of where you can share a bottle from the Cocktails: “The cocktails at the Hotel
natural beauty and skincare, and where wine cellar with friends or enjoy a solo Sanders bar are excellent.”
you can find Lesse in Copenhagen. The glass at the bar. Or Apollo Bar, for People-watching: “Værnedamsvej, a
staff greet every visitor one-on-one for an afternoon or late-night drink in Parisian-style street lined by cafes. Stop
a more personal shopping experience.” the historic courtyard of what was once here for an apéritif in the early evening
Artistic spot: “The Finn Juhl House, a palace and is now an art gallery.” and watch cyclists and pedestrians
part of the Ordrupgaard Museum. Dinner: “Iluka, which is a sublime and hurry to after-work drinks or dinner.”
Juhl was a pioneer of mid-century sensory experience not to be missed. Must-do: “Cycle! There is no better
architecture and furniture design and, The chef, Beau Clugston, is Australian- way to explore.”

Vogue January 2023 49


Wellbeing

State
of
mind
What’s the secret to
a high-performance
mindset? Will looking
inwards result in a more
fulfilled life? Coach and
psychologist DR JODIE
LOWINGER shares
her method for reaching
your personal peak.
By VICTORIA BAKER.

W
e can’t all be Ash achieving CEOs and shared her method of course, the pandemic as common
Barty. Or Emma with founders including Laura Henshaw external sources of worry. “We are
McKeon. Or Beyoncé, of Australian health and fitness app biological beings living in a chaotic,
more’s the pity. But we Keep It Cleaner. But it might take some technology-driven, fast-paced world
are all equipped with work. And let’s be clear: this is not with an overwhelm of uncertainty,” she
our own version of the very same engine another irritating pep talk about having explains. It’s that uncertainty, and more THURSDAYSCHILD X TRUNK ARCHIVE / WENDY SAMA / SNAPPER IMAGES
powering their incredible achievements: the same number of hours a day as particularly our innate discomfort with
the human brain. “Whether you’re Beyoncé, or just needing to “get up it, that leads us to behave in ways that are
a corporate CEO or any human being and work” (thanks, Kim Kardashian). inconsistent with achieving our personal
on this planet, we are equipped with Exhortations to work harder or longer, or professional goals, to put it nicely. 
the same neuroscience,” says Sydney- parent more perfectly, exercise more Avoidance. Procrastination. People-
based author and psychologist Dr Jodie frequently and #girlboss our way to the pleasing. Anger. Defensiveness. Blame.
Lowinger, founder of The Anxiety top are part of the problem. The worry Self-destructive drinking. Perfectionism.
Clinic. So if we all have the same that follows from comparing ourselves Just a few of the enemies of high
hardware, does that mean we all have to others and driving ourselves to be performance, and the behaviours we
the potential to program our own “perfect” will certainly stop us from often unconsciously default to when
software – in other words, coach our living what Lowinger describes as a faced with our own internal worries.
own minds – to allow us to become “confident, fulfilled life” in which we Our brain triggers our fight-or-flight
high performers in our own lives?  can flourish and thrive.  response when faced with any kind of
Well, yes, according to Lowinger, who The constancy of curated and perfected fear, whether real or imagined. But
has worked as a mindset coach for leaders images on social media is just one source Lowinger is at pains to point out how
within organisations including Atlassian, of stress; Lowinger also points to climate important it is to be kind to ourselves,
Google and Amazon, coached high- anxiety, global political instability and, and to understand that these feelings are

50
due to the instincts that are part of our make a mistake they think ‘How can I Lowinger herself still moves through
humanity. Our fight-or-flight response learn from this?’ rather than ‘I have to be the same thought process. “How do
developed for the ultimate reason – on perfect to be good enough,’” she explains.  I take myself out of fight or flight? How
one view, we are all descended from the After identifying your own worries do I stop being driven by the ‘I should be
most neurotic chimps, who worried and the resulting behaviours, Lowinger more’ and ‘I should do more’ and bring
enough to survive – but those same counsels thinking deeply about your myself back to the heart-driven pull
prehistoric survival instincts may not life values, and about the alternative and live with kindness and compassion?
serve us well on a day-to-day basis in actions that might better align with Also, it’s human to experience this, and
2023. Getting to know your own those values. The trick is being driven so how can I make sure I practice
particular set of worries is helpful: towards something positive, rather acknowledging the emotions, too?” 
Lowinger suggests giving them names, than pulling away from something Elizabeth Trotman, CEO of
like books: the I’m Not Good Enough negative. “Clarity on the alternative StudioCanal in Australia and New
story; the I Will Fail story; the I’m an pathway is empowering to us,” says Zealand, worked with Lowinger along
Imposter story. These worries are Lowinger. “Understanding what gives with her senior team. “I think over the
common, but they hold us back.  you a sense of meaning makes it easier past few years there has been a significant
Lowinger’s Mind Strength Method to stand up to the fight-or-flight instinct awakening to the issues around staff
– also the title of her book – involves and realign your response. High wellbeing and the impact of stress and
looking inwards to understand our performance is built around clarity anxiety,” she says. “Whilst we’ve heard
primitive fight-or-flight response and on your values, clarity on your mission, a hundred times before that we have to
acknowledge the way it shapes our own live in the moment, Dr Jodie worked
behaviours, then developing a tolerance with our senior team to identify anxiety
to the discomfort that worry or stress
engenders in order to avoid those
“Any elite as ‘worrying into the future’ and
become more conscious observers of
instinctive negative behaviours and, performer has a our thoughts. Self-awareness is key to
instead, create a space to choose change, and identifying habitual
a response which is aligned with our value of continual unconstructive thought patterns was
values. It sounds simple and logical, but a key step in recognising the futility
it involves being honest with ourselves improvement. If they of worry and developing healthier
and developing what Lowinger thinking patterns.” Trotman was struck
calls “the magnificence of mindful make a mistake they by a new understanding of the physical
self-awareness”.  effects of stress and worry on our
Lowinger has experienced the think ‘How can I learn bodies. “Once we recognise worry and
challenges of anxiety herself, growing up
with a mother who was highly anxious from this?’ rather than anxiety as the causes, we can take
healthy steps forward in our daily lives
for her whole life, after being born into
the trauma and terror of World War II,
‘I have to be perfect to minimise the impact,” she says.
Training your brain to overcome its
and separated from her parents at the
age of three while escaping from a Nazi
to be good enough’” own instincts using mindfulness is at
the heart of Lowinger’s method. So
labour camp. It wasn’t until her father should your New Year’s resolutions
died when she was in her mid-30s that your purpose, your strategic goals, and include meditation? Yoga? If you enjoy
Lowinger decided to leave behind her focusing on effort around those, those practices and find them rewarding,
corporate career and focus on fulfilling and alignment to those,” she says. Once then probably. But Lowinger is realistic.
her life’s purpose. Aligning with what you have this level of self-awareness, it’s “Sometimes New Year’s resolutions feel
gave her a sense of meaning led her to about moving consciously out of like you’re whipping yourself with your
further study and to founding a practice struggle, your worry state, and into ‘not good enough’ thoughts. I think
with a mission of helping people to problem-solving mode for the things intentions of kindness and compassion
leave behind anxiety and find success.  you can control.  to yourself and others is a nice way to
Understanding high performance If you’re a sportsperson, that might start a new year. Maybe setting that
includes realising that anxiety is mean forgetting about a losing match intention in itself will boost your mood,”
sometimes its twin. A high performer and competing in your next race she says. “What does kindness mean to
may be driven to work so hard by the or match in alignment with your you? Maybe it means treating your body
fear of not being “good enough”, or the values, which might be, for example, more kindly. Maybe it means connecting
fear of making a mistake, or the fear of determination and grit. In a corporate with your friends more. Maybe it means
being “found out” as an imposter. setting, it might be realising you are moving out of a toxic work environment
Lowinger points out that this is not saying no to an opportunity (public and thinking about doing something
sustainable high performance, and that speaking, anyone?) because of fear you that gives you more satisfaction in life.
while this kind of self-flagellation won’t be good enough and deciding to To find your voice and move into
might drive you, it can also lead to say yes, to align with your value of empowered action to give you more joy
burnout. In order to achieve true high seeking new opportunities and and fulfillment in your life is your right.
performance, you must “master your experiences. This kind of resilience can What does that look like?” Or as
mindset”. “Any elite performer has be built, with practice. And with Beyoncé might put it: “Okay ladies,
a value of continual improvement. If they practice, it will become habitual. now let’s get in formation …”

Vogue January 2023 51


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Books
Château Gabriel,
Deauville,
France. The decor
was interior
designer Jacques
Grange and Yves
Saint Laurent’s
homage to
Luchino Visconti.

Living large
A new book on the homes of the late YVES SAINT LAURENT is a window into
a fantasy world conjured over an extraordinary lifetime. By ALICE BIRRELL.

I
f a wardrobe is how we wish to dreamed up with interior designer while Visconti-inspired flamboyances
present ourselves to the world, Jacques Grange and described by Vogue including Louis XV chandeliers and
then our private homes reflect our in 1983 as “a fantasy made real”. silver belonging to Tsar Nicholas II
innermost predilections, a fact on Onto all these canvases the French inhabit grand living spaces.
abundant display in the new book designer lavished his endlessly roaming With memories from Betty Catroux
Yves Saint Laurent at Home (Assouline, aesthete’s eye that swung from clean to art dealer Alain Tarica, who helped
$170, assouline.com). The tome travels lines to horror vacui ornamentation. The build his comprehensive art collection,
from the designer’s Art Deco rue de book reveals an ability to meld clashing it is a sumptuous transportive portal,
MARIANNE HAAS

Babylone apartment in Paris, to eras and influences that informed the with indispensable decorating advice.
Marrakech’s Villa Majorelle and revolutionary designer’s vision: le goût “What is taste in a home?” Saint
Deauville France to Château Gabriel, a Rothschild bedrooms at Deauville Laurent once said. “It is knowing when
home with a specially dug lake as were named after Proust characters to stop, and when to start again.”

Vogue January 2023 53


Jewellery

TIFFANY & CO. is just 30, brought Beyoncé and Jay-Z


Lock Bangles.
From left:
into the Tiffany fold, a spectacular
yellow and white example of the brand’s commitment to
gold bangle set a fresh perspective.
with diamonds,
$18,800, rose gold
What today’s generation wants,
bangle, $9,850; according to Arnault, is an elegant,
rose and white streamlined, elongated bangle available
gold bangle set
with diamonds, in yellow, white, or rose gold, sometimes
$18,800. enhanced with diamonds. And of
course, like all bangles, the Tiffany
Lock simply cries out for company
– why would any arm, regardless of
gender, be satisfied sporting a single
rose gold example when it could be
joined with, say, a diamond-studded
yellow gold sibling?
The Tiffany Lock bracelet’s padlock
motif has a long history with the house.
First employed as a working latch in
the late 19th century – to protect the
secrets in your strongbox, perhaps – it
reappeared in the 1950s, and from then
on, its form and shape have informed
brooches, necklaces, money clips, and
those iconic key rings. The mechanism
that opens the lock, meanwhile, is
a bit of an engineering feat: the clasp
features an innovative swivel that
echoes the functionality of a padlock.
Asked whether he thinks all jewellery
in the future will be gender-neutral,
Arnault demurs. Certain collections,
like Tiffany’s HardWear, were originally
intended for women, “but you see a lot of
men wearing it now”, he says – and he

Unlock the rules is sure there are men out there flaunting
Elsa Peretti’s Bone cuff; after all, he
has already seen them sporting that
designer’s Diamonds by the Yard chains.
TIFFANY & CO.’s new Lock collection That said, Arnault believes that some
underscores a modern way to shine: gold and categories may prove more challenging.
Traditional diamond and engagement
gems first, gender last. By LYNN YAEGER. rings remain overwhelmingly the
province of women. As Arnault – who

S
ome revolutions shatter watch around our necks or have married Géraldine Guyot, co-founder
boundaries with a crash a chunky ID bracelet cut down so that of accessories brand Destree, last year
and a bang; others arrive on it fits our wrist. The clean lines of men’s – explains: “I don’t expect our high
tiptoe and, with a whisper, jewellery, along with the charm and jewellery clients to be men anytime
change the rules forever. Up edge of androgyny, have long seduced soon – it is still very feminine, and
until a very few years ago, a guy with women, but lately men have begun at the moment, 100 per cent of those
a diamond Art Deco brooch winking crossing the aisle as well. Which is why clients are women,” he tells me.
from his black-tie ensemble would at Tiffany & Co., for the first time in its However, when it comes to gender-
least raise an eyebrow – and the fellow nearly 200-year history, is launching specific jewellery, the best-laid plans
you went to high school with who Tiffany Lock, a bracelet the company can be delightfully disrupted. “Last
has now paired his white T-shirt with describes as “all-gender” with an ethos summer we launched a range of
a single strand of pearls would elicit – of “No rules. All welcome.” engagement rings for men – diamond
well, if not a guffaw, at least a titter. “It’s all about unity, belonging, rings that were meant to be more
But no longer. the universal bonds that tie us masculine, more suitable for a man’s
Women have for decades helped together forever – and the open- finger,” Arnault remembers. But no
themselves to male-identified jewellery minded spirit of today’s generation,” sooner had those rings appeared than
– the signet ring, those massive says Alexandre Arnault, Tiffany’s a woman in his office at Tiffany snatched
RYAN JENQ

wristwatches. No one blinks an eye executive vice president of product and one up. And now, he confesses, “I see
when we string an antique pocket communication. Arnault, who himself it on her hand every single day.”

54 Vogue January 2023


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Self portrait
How I See It: Blak Art and Film is a new exhibition at
Melbourne’s ACMI celebrating First Nations creatives working
in fields of performance and image-making. These three young
artists featured in the show share their vision in their own words.
Amrita Hepi, choreographer, artist and Bundjalung/Ngāpuhi woman living
between Wurundjeri Country (Melbourne) and Gadigal Country (Sydney).
VOGUE AUSTRALIA: When 1 – Dolphin House is a two-channel video my own personal histories or interests
did you realise you wanted to be installation and visual essay. On a micro interact with universal themes. That
a choreographer? level, I am interested in the interplay of aperture forms how I see, interpret and
AMRITA HEPI: “From a young desire and language, on a macro level it transmit through to art.”
age, but committedly from about age takes the 1965 NASA-funded dolphin VA: What do you hope people take
ANNA HAY (JAZZ MONEY), COURTESY OF ACMI

21. Dance is the love of my life and house experiment as an allegory. To away from your work and from the
the cornerstone of my practice. Really, describe it visually – but with words, exhibition?
I got into this because I like bringing ha! – it’s moving, sprawling, absurd, AH: “That desire and language is tricky
people together, I like being a little neon-lit and somewhat sentimental.” and beautiful, that it’s nice to sit in
on the knife’s edge of exposition; it VA: The title of this exhibition is a dark room and give your attention to
fills my time, it helps me navigate the How I See It. So how do you see the something, that there’s so much humour
map of myself.” world and interpret it through art? and wit in these works and artists’ oeuvre,
VA: Describe the work you have AH: “I’m interested in how hybridity and that there is, as always, a multitude
created for How I See It. forms through social relations, of expressions within the experience of
AH: “Scripture for a smoke screen: Episode mundane magic, language and how Indigenous practice and art.”

56
Jazz Money,
poet, filmmaker and performance
artist, and Wiradjuri woman
based on Gadigal Country.
VOGUE AUSTRALIA: How do
you see the world and interpret it
through art?
JAZZ MONEY: “I think art is one
of the best ways to communicate the
beauty and complexities of this world.
For me, it creates an expansive space
to have deep conversations informed
by politics, theory, feelings, passion,
history and the very humanness of
trying to figure this all out, together.
At its best, art connects me with people
and things in ways I couldn’t have
otherwise, and it is a great joy to be able
to participate in dialogues that help
tell us how we got here and where
we might be going.”
VA: Describe the work you have
created for How I See It.
JM: “I’ve created a large-scale work on
fabric comprising of an academic and
visual essay called Rodeo Baby! The
work is about trying to understand
how film and film archives inform the More Than Just A Game (2022) by Jarra Karalinar Steel.
myth-making of Australia and how that
affects the lived reality of First Nations Jarra Karalinar Steel, multidisciplinary artist and
people. The basis of the work is archival Boonwurrung, Wemba Wemba, Trawlwoolway woman, based
stills of Indigenous rodeo and Blakfellas in Melbourne’s St Kilda on Boonwurrung Country.
on horseback interwoven with text.”
VA: What is special about the VOGUE AUSTRALIA: When did inner suburbs of Melbourne. For me art
exhibition? you realise art was your vocation? has always been an escape, a healing,
JM: “It’s a deadly, radical group of JARRA KARALINAR STEEL: an outlet for expression and reclaiming
artists and thinkers considering the “Art has always been something that has space for my culture and people.”
how and why of image-making. called to me from a very young age. Our VA: Describe the work you have
I love that the gaze is inverted, moving family friend and artist, the late Aunty created for How I See It.
Blakfellas to the centre of the dialogue. Ellen José, was a big influence on my JKS: “This new work explores themes of
This is our land and our story, everyone love for the arts, as well as my mother place, culture, memory and nostalgia. It
else is a guest here, so we’re gonna tell who often took us to art exhibition features a playable arcade game situated
it our way.” openings all over Melbourne. However, inside an installation inspired by
VA: How would you sum up the my parents encouraged other creative a 90s video-game arcade. The playable
energy of your work in a few words? pursuits in fashion and costume as they game element is a collaboration with
JM: “Big legacy, big presence.” saw those as creative careers that were artist Charlotte Allingham aka Coffin
more sustainable. After years of study Birth. We wanted to create an arcade-
and travel, I finally had the courage style game that had representation and
a few years ago to go for my dream was from our point of view for Mob;
of pursuing visual arts. Luckily, it’s a story of a young Koori kid being
worked out okay.” on a journey through Kulin Country in
VA: What role does art play in your an alternative/future Melbourne CBD.”
life? VA: What do you hope people
JKS: “I create work that draws from take away from your new work and
my lived experience of growing up in the exhibition?
culture learning from my Elders and JKS: “What I would hope people take
community in an urban Melbourne away from my new work is a little fun,
environment. I was fortunate to nostalgia, and a new perspective. As for
have grown up surrounded by the exhibition, I hope they take away
my community, grassroots Koori a fresh perspective and feel inspired.”
and Torres Strait artists, activists and How I See It: Blak Art and Film runs at
leaders of the late 1980s and 90s in the ACMI until February 19.

Vogue January 2023 57


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Centre stage
Since playing Princess Margaret on The Crown, VANESSA KIRBY
has gone from strength to strength. Now, she tells
HANNAH-ROSE YEE, she’s ready for her next big project.
60
I
t is Vanessa Kirby’s lot in life to be surrounded by The daughter of a magazine editor and a surgeon, Kirby
Australians. Her aunt lives in Australia, she says, and grew up in London in a tight-knit family and at university
one of her best friends has just relocated Down Under. she cultivated a network of close girlfriends that includes the
Elizabeth Debicki is a close pal in London – “She’s author Dolly Alderton. (They share a therapist, the same one
like a sister to me,” – and Cate Blanchett was the jury Alderton wrote about in Everything I Know About Love and
president at the Venice Film Festival the year that Kirby was who is, coincidentally, Australian.) Kirby – talkative, generous,
awarded Best Actress for Pieces of a Woman, the gaping open full of life – thrives in company. You can see why she gravitates
wound of a film in which Kirby commanded the screen in to theatre, or why she was devastated to learn that, because of
a 26-minute single-take birth scene. And next month, in The covid restrictions, she wasn’t going to be able to hang around
Son, she stars opposite Australians Hugh Jackman and Zen on the set of The Son after her brief two-and-a-half week shoot.
McGrath, a father-son duo with a fractured relationship that “I love to be in it with everybody,” she says. The closed set
takes a sharp turn into tragedy. Kirby plays Beth, second wife meant she barely got to interact with Laura Dern, who plays
of Jackman’s Peter, the pair of them living in the lap of New Nicholas’s mother, but – swings and roundabouts – it did mean
York luxury when McGrath’s Nicholas comes to stay. she spent quite a lot of time with Jackman. “I believe there isn’t
“I said to them, ‘Guys I’m so sorry. I’m really embarrassed, a role Vanessa can’t play. Her range is massive – as we’ve all
but I’m going to have to stay in accent because I find it really seen,” raves Jackman, via email. “In Beth, hers is a performance
difficult to go in and out,’” Kirby recalls, with a self-deprecating with such an amazing restraint and elegance.” The feeling is
roll of her enormous blue eyes. “Hugh humoured me for a bit mutual. “Everyone knows it, but he’s just truly the kindest,
… but then Zen and him would often go into Aussie together. most generous, gentlest man,” Kirby enthuses. And not just as
I was like, ‘Guys, guys, guys! I’m going to start going Aussie!’” a person, but as an actor. “He really wanted to go so deep with
Kirby smiles. “It was really beautiful, actually. It was kind this, and did and has, and I’m so astonished by what he did.”
of perfect for the father and son to have that in common. I was Kirby is referring to the darkness at the heart of The Son,
a little envious of their Aussie-ness.” a film from the director of the Anthony
Kirby is friendly, forthcoming and a bit Hopkins drama The Father – no relation,
cheeky – it’s no wonder she gets on famously
with Australians. She is the picture of elegance
“I believe there although Hopkins does make a brief, and
devastating, cameo in The Son. The story is
in a hotel suite in Venice in the middle of the
film festival, in a pair of sharply tailored black
isn’t a role an unflinching look at what it means to be
a parent: Peter and Kate to Nicholas, Beth
trousers and a ruched blouse. “All my own
stuff,” she brightly declares. Her stylist Ryan
Vanessa can’t to her new baby. There’s a sense of dread
throughout, as the film creeps slowly towards
Hastings is yet to arrive for the festival. He is
bringing with him the sequinned Valentino
play. Her range its wrenching conclusion. “I tend to lean
into characters who take up a lot of space,
gown and the cache of Cartier jewels that
Kirby will wear at The Son’s press conference
is massive” whether it was in The Crown or even in Pieces
of a Woman … and with [Beth], I knew it
and world premiere. (In truth, Kirby doesn’t Hugh Jackman was much more about all the things that
think of herself as stylish at all: “I’m quite she’s not able to say,” Kirby reflects. “The
sort of scruffy, honestly.”) This is the first subtlety of what I thought she needed to
time that Kirby has returned to the Italian city since 2020, be was a real challenge for me … because I find it easier to be
to premiere Pieces of a Woman, the film that would lead to externally visceral. I find it much harder to pull back.”
her first Oscar nomination. She still remembers the period There are passing moments of levity in The Son, though.
as “the most surreal week of my life”. “It meant everything to In one scene, Beth regales Nicholas with the story of how
me, that film,” Kirby explains. “I was so honoured.” she first met Peter, spotting him across the dance floor at
The Oscar nomination came just weeks before Kirby’s 33rd a wedding. Jackman leaps up and begins to perform what
birthday, a crowning achievement after more than a decade of is allegedly, according to the film, a suite of embarrassing
acclaimed performances on the English stage. Over time, she moves. “I was like, ‘I think we need to change these lines,’”
transformed into an action star, joined two major franchises Kirby laughs. “He’s not a bad dancer! I was like, ‘There’s
(Mission Impossible, Fast & Furious) and continued to work nothing you can do, Hugh, to make your rhythm bad.’
in independent cinema, but to many, Kirby is still most Unlike me … I’m really not a good dancer. But he put
recognisable as The Crown’s first Princess Margaret. With a silly song on and you just have to lean into it.”
her blonde hair tucked under brunette wigs, forthright and Kirby likes a challenge. Whether it’s a film such as The
formidable with impeccable diction and a furious temper, she Son, about male mental health, or the birth scene in Pieces of
made Margaret the best thing about the show. a Woman – “I haven’t given birth myself … and it was really
Kirby still keeps up with the series – “Of course!” – as a fan, terrifying to take that on because I just didn’t want to get it
arm in arm with 73 million households who treat the Netflix wrong for women,” – or upcoming projects, including playing
show as appointment viewing. “We didn’t even know if anyone Empress Josephine to Joaquin Phoenix’s Napoleon in an epic
would watch it,” Kirby admits. “So it was amazing when from director Ridley Scott. (“Very complex relationship in
people did, and people liked it, and it wasn’t just my granny history, fascinating dynamic. And we just had a really great
and my mum that watched it.” Alongside her performance in time really going there.”) If the character doesn’t terrify her,
Pieces of a Woman, The Crown is the work she is most proud of if it doesn’t feel like there’s a chance she won’t be able to
today. “That really stretched me, because it was so scary to play do it, Kirby doesn’t sign on. “I’m always looking for that in
a real person, and someone I cared about, and someone that everything,” she says. “And really, now I only do things that
PAWEL PYS

had been misrepresented,” Kirby explains. “I was proud have that quality to them.”
that we all did it together as a family.” The Son opens in cinemas on February 9.

Vogue January 2023 61


Film
Margot Robbie held
aloft in Babylon.

Light fantastic
From designers to directors including STEVEN SPIELBERG, SAM MENDES and
DAMIEN CHAZELLE, the worlds of fashion and film are all celebrating the magic of
the movies right now. HANNAH-ROSE YEE looks to the big screen for inspiration.

I
n the hushed sanctity of the a fellow employee, is lit from within by desperately to her dreams, and Steven
projection booth at a cinema the magic of the movies. Set in 1981, Spielberg’s The Fabelmans, a very
on the south coast of England, every film reference feels like a spark personal tale loosely based on his own
a man begins to unload a reel of of recognition: The Blues Brothers, All journey as a young boy to filmmaking,
film. His hands reverentially feed That Jazz, Chariots of Fire. The tickets in which Michelle Williams plays the
the tape into the projector, each tiny cost only a handful of pounds, the director’s inimitable mother. It’s not
movement made with consideration concession stand is full of retro packets just the filmmakers who are turning
and care. There is only one guest in of Maltesers and Galaxy bars. “You self-reflective; Virginie Viard’s recent
the theatre, but when that guest is should go and sit in the middle with spring/summer ’23 collection for Chanel
Olivia Colman, it doesn’t really matter. a bunch of people who don’t know was inspired by costumes Coco Chanel
Her face is alive with delight as the you – who can’t even see you,” Stephen once fashioned for the 1961 film
projectionist begins his slow two-step (Micheal Ward) advises Hilary at one Last Year in Marienbad. The runway
between the reels. As Frank O’Hara put point in the film. “That little beam of show was set against the backdrop of
it, in his poem An Image of Leda: “Oh, light. It’s an escape.” a sprawling cinema screen beaming a
what is this light that holds us fast!” If you escape to the movies this short film starring house ambassador
This vignette from Empire of Light, the month, you might find your immediate Kristen Stewart, who sat in the front
new film from director Sam Mendes, surroundings reflected right back at row watching herself in a moment of
is shot by legendary cinematographer you. On the big screen right now, cinematic reflection. “Of the people
Roger Deakins like a love scene. The or very soon, is a trio of star-studded around me, [Stewart] is the closest to
lighting is soft, the camera zeroed in films by Oscar-winning filmmakers all Gabrielle Chanel – at least, to my idea
on motion and movement, everything examining the power of the cinematic of her,” Viard mused in the show notes.
delicate and sensual. The film, in which experience. Alongside Empire of Light “She understands Chanel, its clothes.”
Colman plays Hilary, the manager of a there’s Damien Chazelle’s Babylon, Filmmakers have always been
regional cinema who, for a while, finds recreating Hollywood’s halcyon heyday moved to hold a mirror up to their
a salve for loneliness amid the popcorn with an all-star cast led by Margot own industry. There’s nothing more
and the ticket stubs with Stephen, Robbie as a young actor clinging intriguing to a filmmaker than film

62
Actors Toby Jones and Micheal
Ward, far right, in the projection
booth in Empire of Light.

Chanel’s spring/summer ’23 show


featured a vintage-inspired film
starring Kristen Stewart.

Michelle Williams stars The cinematic backdrop at


in The Fabelmans. Chanel spring/summer ’23.

itself: think of Federico Fellini’s 8½, martinis and drove very fast cars, few months at film festivals both local
Quentin Tarantino’s Once Upon a Time made war epics, killer-shark thrillers, and abroad: Melbourne, London,
in Hollywood or even 1952’s Singin’ in romantic comedies, historic dramas, Venice. Seeing movies is my favourite
the Rain. But these three new movies, musicals and more. Their suite of new thing in the world. There is nothing
conceived during the quiet of covid films channel all of that stardust into like sitting in the middle – although
lockdowns and made during them, something akin to a battle cry. How in truth, I prefer the aisle somewhere
too, are all that and more, the work of could you forsake the movies, Empire near the back – in complete silence with
artists going once more unto the breach of Light asks, when it affords you the strangers who don’t know you, who
for an artform under serious threat. In can’t even see that you’re there.
the darkest days of the pandemic, when In a cinema, you can be anonymous
cinemas were boarded up and streaming
was taking hold over our imaginations,
How could you before a screen and, for a brief moment,
find yourself reborn. Cinemas can
pundits wondered if anyone would ever
pay to put on hard clothes and leave
forsake the movies also be the worst, too: they attract
the texters and the talkers as much
their house for something as trivial as
a movie ever again.
when it affords you as they do the quiet acolytes seeking
oblivion. The popcorn can be overly
Not if Spielberg, Mendes and
Chazelle have anything to do with it.
the possibility of salty, or cold. The seats uncomfortable.
The sound quality poor. The tickets
(Or Tom Cruise. Credit must be given connection, even if expensive. (Parking, snacks, maybe
to the man who brought the blockbuster even a babysitter, too!) And perhaps
cinematic experience back from the only for a few hours? the film won’t be any good. These are
brink with his own bare hands in Top the risks. You know them well. They
Gun: Maverick.) These three directors are, in my opinion, worth it, every
are the recipients of six Oscars between possibility of connection, even if only single one. The price of admission for
them for movies as varied as La La for a few hours? Movies are boasting escape in a darkened room for an hour
Land, American Beauty, Schindler’s List and lustful and bananas and brilliant, or so, a big screen, an endless story,
and Saving Private Ryan. They are posits Babylon. Don’t forget about a blanket of noise and a cacophony of
filmmakers whose work has taken us to them. Movies are magic, argues The light. See you at the movies.
Jurassic Park and the Temple of Doom, Fabelmans. (And thereby, Spielberg The Fabelmans is in cinemas now.
danced atop Griffith Observatory or a magician.) Babylon is in cinemas on January 19.
cycled with an extraterrestrial friend I admit, I have a horse in this Empire of Light is in cinemas on
above the treetops, drank shaken particular race. I have spent the past February 2.

Vogue January 2023 63


Vogue for good
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I
t’s no secret fashion has a waste problem, but perhaps the
most shocking fact is a huge amount of wastage happens
before shoppers buy anything. Around 30 per cent of
clothes produced every season are never sold, often
ending up in landfill or burnt, a fact a slew of designers
is seeking to tackle. Sydney’s Jillian Boustred is one, and by Hats off
making very minimal quantities by smaller manufacturers, Australian milliner Helen Kaminski has debuted
she’s able to better match demand with supply. “Working with her conscious collection of hats that utilise
boutique local factories means we can cap our unit quantities responsibly sourced, single-origin wool from
and recut best-selling styles when demand is there.” This way an independent Victorian Merino woolgrower.
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64 Vogue January 2023


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Vogue TOUCH OF CLASS


There’s nothing like

Diary beautiful lingerie to make


you feel special, especially
when it’s from luxury French
Explore what’s in store and brand Simone Perele.
worth having this month. Renowned for its expert
craftsmanship and couture
detailing, the brand offers
100 per cent fit guarantee
with sizes from A to H cups,
helping you feel your most
confident and comfortable
every day. Pictured here,
pieces from the Singuliere
collection. Shop online at
simone-perele.com.au.

CRÈME DE LA CRÈME
Embark on a journey from sea to skin with the La Mer’s ultra-luxe
moisturiser Crème de la Mer. Renowned for its healing energies,
the sea is at the heart of the brand’s powerful formulations.
Infused with Miracle Broth™, a cell-renewing elixir made from
giant sea kelp that delivers moisture and helps boost natural
repair, skin appears firmer, smoother and more hydrated.
Go to cremedelamer.com.au.

SOUND WAVES
Combining cutting-edge industrial design with
sleek aesthetics, Rode’s NTH-100 headphones
look as impressive as they sound. Suitable for
a broad range of content creation from audio
editing to podcasting, expect remarkably
accurate frequency response and ultra-low
distortion. Ergonomic earcups and premium
Alcantara® cushions deliver on comfort, while
cable colour options include vibrant pink, green,
blue or orange. Go to digidirect.com.au.

SHINE ON
Lacklustre locks be gone! Joico’s YouthLock™ haircare range
focuses on maintaining hair’s youthful bounce, shine, resilience
and softness. Formulated with strengthening marine collagen
as well as nourishing buriti fruit oil, each of the four products in
the range work to protect your hair from the damaging effects
of daily styling transforming dull, thin and brittle strands into
healthy ones. Available from ozhairandbeauty.com.
Interior life

MISSONI
HOME chair,
$2,400.

A scene from La
NICOLA FASANO plate, P.O.A. Terrazza (1980).

PAOLA LENTI
table, P.O.A.
BOSA
INTERVIEW: JONAH WATERHOUSE PHOTOGRAPHS: ALAMY, ANDREA FERRARI

BOSSANOVA
side table,

Bella vita
$3,700,
from Space
Furniture.
ALL PRICES APPROXIMATE DETAILS AT VOGUE.COM.AU/WTB

We ask interior design talents to guest-edit style cues for home. Milan-based architect
and designer LUCA BOMBASSEI takes style cues from Italian summers.
“We’re living in strange times in Europe, suspended between a ceramics and coloured fabrics. Also, large carpets and
hard two-year time of pandemic when interpersonal relations cushions laying on the ground will make you feel a touch of
were discouraged or even forbidden, and a need of going back exoticism, even if you’re in the city centre.
to a long-lost sociality. A dinner on your home terrace offers an “Italian movies like La Terrazza (1980) by Ettore Scola and
amazing middle ground, where you can meet your friends and Le Fate Ignoranti (2001) by Ferzan Özpetek are especially
loved ones without renouncing your domestic intimacy … inspiring to me.”
the mood should be cosy but glamorous at the same time. Want to see more of Luca Bombassei’s style? Pick up the latest
“Setting the table with care and love is essential, [as is] issue of Vogue Living, on sale now, and go to vogue.com.au/
choosing supplies that enchant your guests: decorated vogue-living.

Vogue January 2023 67


Tailoring
the dream
VOGUE PROMOTION

Clockwise from far left:


Joanne Fiorio fitting
singer-songwriter KLP
with her bespoke suit;
KLP performing on
stage; KLP and Fiorio
at VAEFNO; and at
the final fitting.

I
t’s not every day that dreams come Argys Tailoring made-to-measure suit.
true. But for one Sydney-based small Making sure as many eyes were on
business, Argys Tailoring, their Argys Tailoring as possible, even for
dream came true in a way they could those that couldn’t make the event,
never have imagined. It all started when American Express took out large-scale
third-generation business owner, Joanne advertisements across the Sydney CBD,
Fiorio, entered the American Express as well as online.
Dream Backers initiative – an inspiring “It felt surreal seeing so many eyes on
pursuit that gave one lucky American our designs. Come to think of it, the
Express-accepting small business the whole experience has been surreal. I
chance to turn their boldest business could never have imagined that I would
dream into reality. be seeing myself and our family business
“The pandemic put a hold on suits and on adverts across the city and have KLP
occasion wear, with people having in one of our suits,” says Fiorio.
nowhere to dress to impress. Our business KLP’s made-to-measure suit was
dreams were put on hold too, although curated in partnership with the
we never gave up on them,” says Fiorio. singer-songwriter, and the finished
Fiorio’s dream was to see an Australian design represents her character and music
celebrity wear a new Argys Tailoring style. Dream Backers is the latest in
women’s made-to-measure suit on a series of initiatives by American Express
a national stage. To their absolute to support small businesses in Australia.
delight, American Express pulled out all “This experience has been amazing for
the stops to create a once-in-a-lifetime our business,” Fiorio says. “I’m still in
moment at one of the biggest events shock about the added exposure my small
on the Australian fashion calendar – business has received, all thanks to being
Vogue American Express Fashion’s an American Express merchant.”
Night Out (VAEFNO).
Australian singer-songwriter KLP Find out how American Express can back
opened the runway performing and your business and the many benefits of
strutting her stuff on the catwalk, being an American Express merchant
suited and booted in a custom-designed at go.amex/merchant.
BRAD PITT

JANUARY 
EXCLUSIVE TO CINEMAS
MARGOT RO B B I E

JANUARY 
EXCLUSIVE TO CINEMAS
VOGUE PROMOTION

Vogue ALL THAT GLITTERS


With its commitment

Diary to excellence in design,


craftsmanship and service,
Bond Street Jewellers is
Explore what’s in store and where to find pieces to
worth having this month. cherish forever. Case in point,
this dazzling diamond ring
from the Triolgy collection.
Opulent and unique, the
three-stone ring features
an emerald-cut centre
diamond framed by two
trapeze-cut diamonds. Visit
bondstreetjewellers.com.au.

HOLIDAY VIBES
The Casamicciola Crossbody is one of the favourites among
Wanderers Travel Co.’s vacation collection. Its saddle shape
yet petite frame accents any holiday outfit beautifully, while the
fold-over close, external pockets and internal compartments
keep you organised and chic. Removable crossbody strap, top
handle, and wristlet included. The perfect vacay – or any day –
accessory. Check it out at wandererstravelco.com.

MANE STAGE
Glossy tresses that shine with good health can
be yours thanks to Solfine’s new formulation
Crema Colour. Its coconut oil-infused Natural
Complex is the key to colour that actively
improves the condition of hair while providing
long-lasting results and excellent coverage.
With Solfine Crema Color, you can expect salon-
level colour, achieved safely, gently and simply.
Find out more at priceline.com.au.

REEL TIME
The wait is finally over. Award-winning director Damien
Chazelle’s highly anticipated original epic Babylon is out this
month. Set in 1920s Los Angeles and starring Brad Pitt, Margot
Robbie and Diego Calva, the film weaves a tale of oversized
ambition and outrageous excess during an era of unbridled
decadence in early Hollywood. Exclusive to cinemas from
January 19. Go to babylonmovie.com.au.
BANANAS CLARKE

Lensed both with and without a head covering,


Muslim Australian model on the rise Hanan Ibrahim,
celebrates the many facets of being a modern woman.
FASHION
FAITHFUL
As a Somali-Australian
model, Hanan Ibrahim
is used to challenging
fashion and religious
stereotypes. Now,
sharing her decision
to wear a hijab on her
own terms, she writes
about her desire to
embrace both sides of
her identity and carve
out space for women
wanting to do the same.
Styled by Miguel Urbina Tan.
Photographed by Bananas Clarke.
Vogue January 2023 75
Gucci jacket, $ 4,450,
and hat, $1,840.
Van Cleef & Arpels
earrings, $43,800.
ight months ago, I made the decision to start wearing my hijab
part-time. In making this choice, I have found myself between
a rock and a hard place. The rock being the lifelong comfort of
wearing hijab, of it identifying me as a member of the Muslim
community, and the pride I felt as being Australia’s first hijabi
model. The hard place being fear of how people would interpret
this act, using it to either view me as a woman who has lost her
way or as one conforming to Western beauty standards.
Growing up in a multi-ethnic Muslim community in
Melbourne, I saw many women practising hijab intermittently,
wearing it to work and the mosque but then taking it off for certain social events.
This fluidity fascinated me as it suggested another way to exist as a Muslim woman.
I was always taught you’re either a woman who wears a hijab or you’re not. Yet here
these women were, defying the standards of perfection set out for them around what
it means to be a “good” Muslim woman. They were heavily scrutinised and labelled
as “hypocrites”for wearing it whenever they deemed fit, as though deciding to wear
a hijab comes with a “death do us part” promise.
Unfortunately, for many globally a woman’s dress sense is a matter controlled by
external forces, whether by communities whose views derive from rigid interpretations
of religious texts, or from opposingly radical and secular societies that fail to respect
the agency of women altogether. Both systems fail to capture Muslim women as
agents of their own lives. Choosing to wear a hijab or not is a matter of individual
choice. It is not a decision to be made by others.
One question I’m asked often is whether I was forced into wearing hijab or whether
I felt oppressed with it on. This always seemed absurd to me because it’s a choice I
made freely and with the blessing of my family. I must reiterate that wearing hijab
has never made me feel oppressed nor was I ever forced into wearing it. I accepted it
as a second skin and something Muslim women did when they reached a certain age.
I was proud to have worn it through school, university, and in both of my careers.
The hijab made me feel empowered, content and it was a testament to my spirituality.
It will always hold a significance in my life.
Conversely, not wearing the hijab recently has opened my eyes to another aspect of
my womanhood. For a long time, I never imagined my body and hair as constituting
part of my identity. Instead, my personality and my intellect, in isolation of my
physical self were what made me who I was and not a combination of the three. In
many ways, I had denied that part of myself, clinging to the hope that by wearing
a hijab I was liberating myself from sexual objectification and that in itself was all
I needed to be free.
Choices are so often made for women that do not allow them to speak for themselves.
“As this country
To deny a woman’s choice goes against a core principle of Islam – that there is no becomes more
compulsion in religion. Muslim women should be free to make their own choice
whether it’s to honour the belief that covering the hair and body is always necessary, open-minded
or if it is a decision that allows them more flexibility around how they dress. To
assume that there can only be one form of practising the hijab denies women of their in deeming who
right to autonomy, agency and ultimately their freedom to practise religion.
I’m currently at an intersection in my life where I want to live authentically, which and what is
for me, means being free to veil, unveil or to do both simultaneously without fear of
reprimand. This decision does not change my love of faith and culture, nor does it Australian, I also
alter my devotion to it. It is simply about embracing both sides of my identity, that of
a visibly practising Muslim woman who wears hijab and that of an equally practising want to explore
Muslim woman who does not. As this country becomes more open-minded in
deeming who and what is Australian, I also want to explore the other parts of my
the other parts of
womanhood – a Muslim woman, a black Somali woman, and an Australian woman
all at once. This decision isn’t about validation or fulfilling a desire to “fit in”, it’s
my womanhood –
centred on flexibility and personal choice. Some may even call me misguided or brave,
but there is nothing braver than wearing a hijab in an Islamophobic world. My hope
a Muslim woman,
is that space is carved out for women who are part-timers, transitioning to wearing
hijab full time, and for those who have worn it all their lives and then choose not to
a black Somali
without fearing what this will do to their relationships, communities and careers. woman, and an
BANANAS CLARKE

My commitment to faith is not defined by when and how often I wear hijab. It is
instead about being authentic and true to my own life journey. I will always be Australian woman
a Muslim and feel part of my community. But I also recognise that there is not one
singular way to live my faith. ■ all at once”
78
Kim Jones (left)
and Marc Jacobs,
photographed in New
York City. Jacobs carries
a Fendi Baguette bag.

SUDO PHOTOGRAPHED AT THE ART STUDENTS LEAGUE OF NEW YORK

All in the bag


PORTRAITS: STYLED BY TONNE GOODMAN GROOMING: KIYONORI

A bag that’s much more than an accessory, speaking to the power of fashion and an
Italian empire, the Fendi Baguette takes centre stage for an anniversary collection
that brought together an extraordinary cast of cultural icons under the visionary
direction of Kim Jones. Interview by Edwina McCann. Styled by Miguel
Urbina Tan. Photographed by Bananas Clarke. Portraits by Annie Leibovitz.
86
Jacobs – Jones calls him
the King of American
Fashion – sketches out
his vision for Fendi.

hen Silvia Venturini Fendi through bags carrying precious hardware, both showcased
speaks about her most famous alongside Jones’s utility-meets-sport-and-street designs. “At
creation, the Fendi Baguette the beginning, I just wanted to do a capsule collection with
bag, she knows it embodies accessories for the anniversary of the Baguette, but then Kim
something so elusive in fashion convinced me that we should do a big show,” comments
she doesn’t think she’ll see it Venturini Fendi who had a hand in getting supermodel, and
again. “Creating an icon, a name forever associated with the 90s, Linda Evangelista to
not just something that’s return to the runway for the collection.
considered an It bag, is like A bag that evolved with the shrinking size of mobile
doing alchemy and is something phones, made to clutch under the arm (hence Baguette),
that only happens once in a lifetime,” she says of the perfect captures a spirit of carefree and optimistic 90s New York City,
collision of timing, social temperature and exceptional design an association cemented by its star turn on Sex and The City
that birthed the envelope-style bag in 1997. (and which informed the show location). Edwina McCann
Not trying to recreate that impossible collision of forces, sat down with Jones there to discuss a meeting of icons.
instead honouring them, is the special Fendi collection VOGUE: We’re here in New York for very exciting reasons.
for resort ’23, imagined as the Baguette’s 25th anniversary Can you tell us why?
celebration and held in New York, rather than the brand’s KIM JONES: “Basically, when we started looking at the way
usual European backdrop for shows. we were going to do a capsule collection for the Baguette’s 25th
Reflected there, more than kismet, was the hard work of anniversary, I was saying it’s such a key Fendi item, I think we
current creative director Kim Jones, who is adding his own should make it bigger. The Baguette became really famous in
BANANAS CLARKE, ANNIE LEIBOVITZ,

chapter to the other icon that is the Roman house of Fendi. Sex in the City, which is in New York, so that’s the reason we’re
Since his appointment in 2020, he’s quickly making a mark here. 1997 is the reference point for the collection. It’s the idea
as master collaborator. For this special occasion, he convinced of celebrating something – it’s not the form of when we’re
two New York stalwarts Marc Jacobs, who he worked doing the collections normally, the Fendi collections in Milan
alongside at Louis Vuitton as a young designer, and heritage or Paris, where there’s a flow that goes through them. This is
American jewellery brand Tiffany & Co. to work on their out of that sync, but it’s a special occasion. The other obsession
own interpretations of the bag – Jacobs through a suite of I have with New York is the Uptown/Downtown mix. I was
ready-to-wear looks that closed out the show, Tiffany thinking about Downtown mostly, because that’s the bit →

Vogue January 2023 89


I was really drawn to when I was young. Marc Jacobs is looking more at maximal 90s than the minimal thing that
obviously the king of Downtown, and Marc was the person is happening in fashion for the show, just because I think
that hired me at Vuitton, and I was looking at what he was that’s something that really is nice and super-celebratory.”
doing around 1997. I’ve loved his collections, too, so I sent V: And it was also very New York, with Sex and the City,
him a text and was like, ‘Marc, design a Fendi collection for which adds another layer to the Baguette’s history.
the Baguette – we’re going to do it in New York!’ And that’s KJ: “Yes, exactly. You just think about Carrie Bradshaw’s closet.
how that came around and he’s designed the collection. I’m Kids are watching that now. I’m always eagerly asking all my
not involved. It’s not collaboration, the clothes are all his.” friends’ children, and some of the younger models, ‘What do
V: No wonder, it’s so Marc! you watch?’. But I look at Studio 54 and think, ‘Oh my god,
KJ: “So he’s got a collection, we’ve got a collection. And then that must have been incredible,’ so it’s kind of the same.”
there’s the third part of it, which is Tiffany. Tiffany Baguette, V: The Baguette became almost a character in that TV
[and] baguette is a diamond cut. I was in the Fendi store series. Would you say no other bag has superseded it?
Uptown and I was looking across at the big Tiffany building KJ: “They become pop-culture icons and I think that’s what’s
and was just thinking, I want to hear both of them. So I called interesting. For me, Marc Jacobs is a pop culture icon, too, so
[Tiffany & Co. executive VP of product and communication] maybe a Birkin is on that sort of level, but it is its own character.”
Alexandre Arnault, and I was like, I’d love to do some bags V: Everyone knows how busy you are because you have the
that are the price points of jewellery show in Milan coming up. How do
for the show. Then you’re telling the you manage to do all this?
Bella Hadid
story of New York as a whole because walks in the KJ: “I have downtime. Sometimes
you think about Tiffany, you think Fendi resort I’ll work for three weeks, without
of Breakfast at Tiffany’s, particularly ’23 show. a day off, and then when I go home,
Truman Capote … there are those I’ll just be on my own for a few days.”
different eras. It’s fun to work with V: And is that why you like to go to
other people to see how different places like Indonesia and Kenya?
companies work and especially KJ: “Exactly, with a few friends and
when it’s high jewellery. We’re loved ones and have a nice time.”
making bags out of sterling silver, V: And is that because you had an
all hand-done. So, it’s really special. interesting childhood travelling
They’re made-to-order one-off, but around the world?
then there are some that are limited KJ: “I love nature, I love wildlife,
that have the buckles, which are in I love going to places I’ve never been
white gold to look like the silver, and seeing things I’ve never seen.
but with actual baguette diamonds.” And in Kenya, we saw black leopards
V: Can you tell us about Linda – so beautiful, and that’s something
Evangelista and her involvement I never thought I’d see in the wild.”
in the anniversary? V: You really have become
KJ: “I read an article about all the someone known for innovative
horrible things that have happened collaborations that are also very
to her and how it really made her fun and unexpected. Nobody
feel terrible, but I looked at expected the Versace one.
the pictures of her and thought, KJ: “Well, I took Silvia [Venturini
‘You are still beautiful.’ So, I wrote her a letter. Fendi] to meet Donatella [Versace] when we did our first
I said, ‘You know, I’d love to work with you.’ And then we show, so we went to dinner after. They’ve had very similar
started talking. Then Steven Meisel did the photos and upbringings and lives – [they’re both] born into a fashion
obviously they have a great relationship. It was really family. They really got along and it was like, ‘Let’s do
emotional on the set. Watching her face move is just incredible something together,’ and it was just fun. You learn so much
– this slight gesture changing the whole image. So, I assembled working with people. Watching Marc Jacobs’s fittings, you’re
a team of people around to make her feel comfortable and I was learning. It’s interesting, for me.”
really thrilled by the results. It’s like a teenage dream. Some V: And how different was it between Donatella and Marc,
things I do purely for myself, [to say] ‘I’ve worked with that because they’re very different.
person, that’s amazing, I can’t believe I’ve done that.’” KJ: “[Laughs] Donatella was a huge amount of laughter, and
V: You’ve said the Baguette is such an icon of the 90s. Marc is really … the instinct. And the thought process is
Today, everyone, especially people who are a lot younger, is fascinating. I love Marc, we haven’t had time to look to each
obsessed with the 90s. Can you tell us about that? other, to see what each other’s doing and it’s a bit like being
KJ: “Well, if I look at Lila [Moss] or Bella [Hadid], or all the in college in a funny way.”
girls I know, they’re all hunting down vintage Fendi, or vintage V: And is it a bit of a dream come true, seeing him working?
Dior from those times, because they probably were too young Where were you both in the 90s?
to remember that. There’s a certain nostalgia to that time, KJ: “College. So, I was kind of thinking it’s like working
which seems like it was free because it probably was because with Linda, working with Marc, all these people I looked up
people didn’t have a phone or a camera on them the whole to – it’s a bit of a dream wish list. Some of these things are
time. People would go out and dance and enjoy themselves done very selfishly, but people don’t know that. Just because
rather than worry about how people thought they looked. I’m it’s an opportunity to enjoy.” ■

90
92
Lost and found
During a tumultuous childhood in Russia, Natalia Vodianova and
her youngest sister, Jenna, were separated by adoption. Two decades
later, DNA testing brought about a grateful, unexpected reunion.
By Hamish Bowles. Photographed by Annie Leibovitz.

Half-sisters, model
Natalia Vodianova (near
left) and her youngest
sibling, Jennifer Burns.

Vogue January 2023 93


atalia Vodianova began her a second romantic entanglement – with a man who would be
modelling career in Nizhniy at 16, the love of Larisa’s life, according to Natalia – that produced
soon after a boyfriend introduced a second daughter, Oksana, born with severe developmental
her to a local modelling academy. issues. Soon Larisa and daughters found themselves, as
Scouts told her she could go to Paris Natalia recalls, “in a little 20-metre room with nothing”.
but would need to learn English As Natalia grew up there were further tumultuous
in three months. Revealing the relationships for Larisa – including briefly, a return of
steely drive that would steer her Oksana’s father, still Larisa’s true love, which produced
through life, Natalia did exactly Natalia’s sister Kristina. Natalia was 14. “Love is a crazy,
that. Anything would be better crazy thing,” she says of this period. And so it proved when,
than toiling away at her mother’s fruit and vegetable stand. a few years later, “Prince Charming comes along and he
“I had nothing to lose,” she told Vogue’s Sarah Mower in sweeps her off her feet,” Natalia says. “He’s a gentleman. He
2003. “Only something better could happen to me.” seems so serious. He’s so kind to us, and after six months
In Paris, she was borne by her Cinderella story and the they’re together. My mom is shining,” she remembers. Larisa,
celestial beauty that would see her cast as Lewis Carroll’s then 36, was soon expecting her fourth child.
Alice in Annie Leibovitz’s legendary December 2003 Vogue It would, however, prove to be another unhappy love affair,
portfolio. Her preternatural elegance and composure veiled and a financially ruinous one for Larisa. The relationship left
any thought of a complicated history. her with a debt that forced her to turn to the local mafia to
Motherhood and a first marriage to the artist Justin borrow money at extortionate terms. “By the time she’s eight
Portman, scion of the aristocratic British dynasty, was months pregnant, we have to have this tough conversation,”
to follow. At 19, Natalia was pregnant with Lucas (now says Natalia, then a 16-year-old having to grow up fast. “I told
21), and the following year, 2002, her, ‘You absolutely cannot bring another
Portman and Natalia wed. Soon after – child into this situation.’” And so the
her modelling star in ascendancy – Natalia decision was made to put the baby – who
(whose family with Portman would come “I felt Jenna has would be called Masha – up for adoption.
to include daughter Neva, now 16, and “I have always taken responsibility for
second son Viktor, 15) signed a contract always been that decision, maybe even more than
with Calvin Klein, providing a new level I have admitted to myself,” Natalia explains
of financial security that allowed her to part of my life,” quietly. However, “by the time Masha was
arrange nursing care and housing for her
severely autistic younger sister, Oksana, says Natalia, born, there was no question that it was the
right decision”, she adds, recalling that
and her mother, Larisa. “She’s my baby,”
said Natalia of her mother, then only 39. “even if I didn’t the mafia’s tactics were becoming ever
more intimidating. “I remember saying to
“I want to spoil her now, make sure she’s
happy. She’s had such a hardcore life.”
know her” my mom, ‘There is a queue of parents who
want this child. She’s going to be loved,
“Natalia Vodianova’s story is so she’s going to have a much better life than
romantic,” wrote Vogue in 2003, “she’s with us.’” Natalia went to see her infant
already a girl on the brink of legend … the heroine of sister for the first, and as she thought, the last time. “I said to
a magical Russian rags-to-riches fairytale.” Natalia had her, ‘I promise we’ll see each other again.’”
revealed just enough of her hardscrabble life to fuel the myth: Natalia arrived in Paris in November of 1999 as Jenna’s
At the age of 11, she recalled, “I used to carry tens and tens adoption was under way. “As soon as I was even a little
of [fruit] boxes, each of which weighed 30 kilos, without even successful and felt safe,” Natalia recalls, “I came back to look
thinking it was heavy!” for her, but she was gone. I even hired a private detective to
In 2004, Natalia applied her influence and determination try to crack the system. Nobody was giving us information.”
towards the launch of a charity, the Naked Heart For Natalia the years that followed were haunted by
Foundation, a response to her country’s entrenched attitudes a “nightmare of thinking, what if Masha is with the wrong
towards people, like her sister Oksana, with disabilities. The family? What if she’s unloved? When you have your children,
organisation supports families that choose to look after their you understand how precious it is.”
disabled children at home, and builds playgrounds across It was in 2016 that Natalia first took a DNA test. “I had
Russia and former Soviet countries, in areas that need them. very little hope of finding anything. For a while, I looked at
Portman and Natalia divorced in 2011, and in 2020 Natalia the monthly emails thinking, who knows? But then it just
married businessman Antoine Arnault, the elegantly willowy became too painful.” And so she stopped looking altogether
son of Bernard Arnault with whom she has sons Maxim, 8, – and fatefully missed the emails, in 2019, from Jenna.
and Roman, 6. On a balmy day in the parkland of the pretty It was half-sister Kristina who made the connection.
village outside Paris where Natalia and her family decamp for Kristina too had registered with the DNA site, and in 2021
weekends, Natalia shared the complicated history that led to had been notified of a half-sister match. Natalia and Kristina
the adoption of her half-sister Jenna, whom she remembers immediately sent a flurry of emails to Jenna. “I’ve been
only as baby Masha. looking for you forever,” read Natalia’s.
“My mom had quite a series of very unhappy relationships, Jenna thinks back to that day in the Walmart parking lot.
starting with my father,” she explained. They married “I was happy, obviously, and I was also in shock,” she recalls.
when Natalia’s mother Larisa was 19. Army service was A correspondence began, tentatively, at first, on Jenna’s side.
mandatory at the time, and so Natalia’s father was called up But with time, her confidence grew and eventually Jenna felt
when she was a baby – and the marriage didn’t last. Nor did ready for a video call with Natalia. “I was quite nervous …

94
I don’t know what I had expected her to be. I think maybe born mother that same year. “But finding Jenna brought her
the stereotypical ‘supermodel’, but she was quite natural, and so much peace,” Natalia says.
easy to talk to,” Jenna remembers. They spoke for almost Exactly a year after Jenna received those first emails from
three hours, Natalia asking lots of questions about Jenna’s Natalia and Kristina, she is joining them in Connecticut,
childhood, and sharing some details of the complicated where Antoine and Natalia and their extended families spend
circumstances leading up to Jenna’s adoption. the summer, and Annie Leibovitz has come to capture the
Eventually, Natalia suggested that Jenna visit her in Paris, moment. “Natalia’s just in such a different phase of life than
with her brother Ethan. “We hugged for a long time in the I am,” Jenna tells me. “I just graduated university. I’m starting
airport,” Jenna remembers. “It was a lot,” she goes on, recalling my first job. And she’s been working, and a mother of five
her immersion into Natalia’s family life, including meeting children. But I think our personalities go very well together.
Kristina, who was there for the visit. Jenna found she had a It’s nice that we finally have made our connection and we’ve
special connection with Kristina, only two years older. “She’s closed that chapter of uncertainty, and we know we’re both
a doctor of paintings,” says Natalia proudly of Kristina. okay. It’s going to be exciting to move forward with it.”
“They’re the two nerds, and I’ve never been to university.” “For me,” says Natalia, “I felt she has always been part of
The second week of the Paris trip, Jenna met her mother my life, even if I didn’t know her. But it was in a quite painful
for the first time. Larisa speaks no English, and Jenna didn’t way, always wondering if she was okay. I just feel that we are
speak any Russian (she is learning the language now). “I was catching up very quickly. There’s something beautiful about
quite an anxious mess,” says Jenna, “but it went about as genetics and our genes. Love comes very naturally.”
well as it could go. It was a very intimate moment, the first I admire Jenna’s remarkable grape-coloured eyes. “I grew
time we met. Natalia and Kristina were translating between them myself,” she says with a laugh, and then, suddenly
the two of us. Everyone was kind of in shock. She just was curious, turns to Natalia. “Were his eyes green?” she asks,
looking at me and holding me.” meaning her father. “They were,” Natalia tells her.
ANNIE LEIBOVITZ

“I had never seen Mom more peaceful,” says Natalia. Larisa Soon after the shoot, Natalia planned to head to North
had ended up marrying the father of Oksana and Kristina, Carolina to meet Jenna’s parents. Jenna promises to show her
even though it would prove “a very turbulent relationship”, lots of family videos. “You’re going to cry,” she tells her sister.
Natalia says. He died in 2021, and Larisa lost her Ukrainian- “I’m ready,” says Natalia. “Happy tears.” ■

Vogue January 2023 95


GAME
CHANGER
Ajla Tomljanović comes
into the Australian Open
off the back of her most
successful year, having
made two Grand Slam
quarterfinals in 2022 and
defeating Serena Williams.
Here, our top-ranked
female player speaks to
Jelena Dokic about the
mental switch up that has
inspired her killer form.
Styled by Edward Bowleg.
Photographed by
Emma Summerton.
elena Dokic: “Firstly, I just want to thank you March rolled around, I really feared playing in Wimbledon
for this opportunity because it’s something because what if I couldn’t prove I could do it again? So I had
different for me, to be like a contributing editor, to really look at myself and be honest with the people around
and to interview you is fantastic. I’ve covered me that I was struggling and needed guidance. From there we
all your matches, all the previews, so I’m really made a plan to take every day as it comes. And I’m very proud
honoured to be able to do this with you.” of [managing] that because people maybe don’t know this, but
Ajla Tomljanović: “Oh, well, likewise. Thank tennis at this stage in my life means so much to me.
you, I really appreciate it.” “And when Wimbledon came, I just did so well
JD: “You were born in Croatia so I’d like to with managing my life and the mental side of things …
start by talking about your childhood. Tell me I responded instinctively, like I’ve been wanting to for a long
what that was like.” time. So when people say, what changed? It’s a lot of day-to-
AT: “I was born in Zagreb, Croatia, and early on I spent four day work of just living life and playing tennis and trying to
years in Switzerland because my dad was playing handball improve myself in these moments and dealing with it better
there. I don’t remember much, but from home videos than I have in the past.”
I know that was where I started seeing tennis a lot because JD: “Let’s discuss the US Open and your win over Serena
my parents would play together. on the eve of her retirement. I’ve watched you play a lot and
“Then we moved back to Croatia just before I started school. I think it’s the best match you’ve ever played. It was incredible
It’s weird because when I look now, I mean I’m 29 and I’ve tennis, you were so calm and composed. You had 25,000
spent the past 15 years in America, but so much of my life people cheering for Serena and as much as that’s a great
I really remember was in Croatia. It was so influential. I had atmosphere, you had to deal with that as well.”
a really old coach and he taught me my technique and how AT: “I found out I was playing Serena seconds after I’d won
I see the game. It was the place where I my second-round match, and I felt strange.
figured out I wanted to be a professional I was happy to get the opportunity to play
and that this was my passion.” her because I’ve never faced her and she’s
JD: “How old were you when you started “I was happy the greatest of all time, but there was a
playing tennis?” little bit of fear, like, I can do this, but
AT: “I was about six or seven.” to get the can I do it because of the occasion and the
JD: “Same with me. So how did it come circumstances?
about for you to play for Australia? I know opportunity to “The pep talks [helped], but literally a few
that it was a few years back and you had to minutes before going on, the tournament
wait for your citizenship for quite a while.” play Serena, supervisor came up to me and was like,
AT: “I know, it’s really strange for a lot of
people and hard for me to explain it well. but there was a ‘Ajla, you’re going out first. Please take the
chair right from the umpire and then we’re
I have so many emotions from when I was
a kid – I remember watching the Australian
little bit of fear” going to do a two-minute video and then
Serena’s going to walk out.’ I’m like, ‘What
Open or my dad would tell me stories of do you mean a video? What am I going to do
playing in the Olympic Games in Sydney there for two minutes?’ So there was a little
[as part of the Croatian handball team] and I was so intrigued bit of anger, good anger in a way. I understand the occasion,
by the whole country. And I had success in junior doubles, but come on. And that helped me be more of a, excuse my
winning that title [at the Australian Open in 2009], and language, but more of a bitch. Like, okay, I’m here, I also want
actually during that tournament I watched you play Dinara to win this. From there it was pretty much instinct.”
Safina live [in the quarterfinal] …” JD: “It’s interesting you mention the video because we were
JD: “Oh, did you?” following the whole tournament and that video was being
AT: “Yeah, I remember it like it was today. I had amazing played before every match for Serena. It might not sound like
tickets just above your box. It was the first time I could watch a lot, but for players to wait and watch that, it’s not easy. Your
up close and I get goosebumps thinking about it because it post-match interview was one of the classiest things I’ve ever
was the first time I thought, ‘Wow, truly this is my dream to seen – you really gave the stage to her in that moment.”
be in this position at some point.’ So when the opportunity AT: “Yeah, it felt strange because the whole match I really
came to represent Australia, it was a no-brainer. I never wanted to win and the whole occasion went out the window
expected it, but then having family on the Gold Coast, it felt for me. I just became a competitor for three hours and when
natural. But I knew it would be strange to others, and there I won that last point, it kind of was like, ‘Oh my gosh, I did
was a long road of convincing people and telling my story.” it, but what just happened?’ Instinctively, no celebration came
JD: “I want to go through the highlights of the past year: two and it just felt natural to not do anything. I wish I had more of
Grand Slam quarterfinals in Wimbledon and the US Open. a chance to talk to Serena and say a few words to her directly,
Since me, you’re actually the first Australian woman in 22 years but I also can imagine what a moment it was for her. I don’t
to make the two consecutive, so that was really phenomenal, think she expected to lose. I think she believed till the last
but it’s also been your consistency. What’s behind it?” moment that she would win, not just this match, maybe the
AT: “First of all, if you had told me in March I’d have this whole thing. But it was her night. Whether she won or lost and
year behind me, I wouldn’t have believed you. In 2021, I made I just wanted that to be known.”
EMMA SUMMERTON

the quarterfinals [of Wimbledon], but I still felt like I had JD: “You always look so competitive when you play, you’re
to convince myself I did that because I really was that good. such a fighter, not just on the court, but in your whole career.
Mentally I wasn’t dealing well with the obstacles and I felt like You had a shoulder surgery that took a while to get over.
I was falling deeper and deeper into a hole. By the time late What do you think your strengths are?” →

100
Bottega Veneta
coat, $11,560.
102
AT: “I’d say I’m extremely competitive. I’m also incredibly Everyone on tour has them and [they] haven’t been so talked
stubborn, which I think has been my greatest strength and about. Okay, maybe because of the people I’ve been with, but
a bit of a downfall; a good example is the shoulder surgery. The if I’m happy sometimes, maybe in the moment, I give a little
stubbornness to come back is what kept me going.” bit. But generally, I like to keep it private and I don’t like my
JD: “In one of your previous interviews you said that you business out there. But then again, if I’m happy and in love,
wished there was more room for emotion in tennis. What did I don’t want to hide it. I would rather not be asked about it in
you mean by that?” a press conference when I’m talking about my match.”
AT: “I remember saying I felt like there are moments when JD: “How are you feeling about being featured in Vogue for
I really want to break a racket or really just go off, but I suppress the first time?”
it because of the fines. I totally understand being an example AT: “It’s surreal. I’m always a little bit scared of showing
to kids who watch us, but sometimes I just feel like you got to who I am outside of me, the tennis player. Just because of the
do it and I come off the court and I’m like, ‘Oh gosh …’ backlash on social media. Are people going to be like, ‘Oh
“I sometimes hate this sport for having to be so classy because stick to tennis.’ But it’s just amazing because I’m a huge fan
there’s so much rage in me sometimes that I want to get it out of fashion. I grew up with a mum who has her own sense of
and I think it would help me perform. And then my dad [who style, and I would always watch her get ready for the day and
has previously been Ajla’s coach] is like, ‘Well, do it if you feel dressing up was always something that made me feel good.”
like it’ll help you.’ But when I did it and my fine was like, JD: “Outside of tennis, how often do you get the opportunity
I don’t know, $2,000, he was like, ‘What were you thinking?’ to experiment and have fun with fashion?”
(laughs). So I don’t know if I stand by that comment.” AT: “Well, I’ve become a little bit more brave. I’ve
JD: “What are you hoping to achieve at the Australian really gotten into overdressing – I don’t care anymore if
Open? Do you feel pressure to perform I’m just going for a laid-back dinner,
well at the event, especially after Ash Barty I still like to dress for whatever my mood
winning last year?” is in the moment. Lately, that’s been really
AT: “I always felt pressure playing in “My biggest dressed up. I’ve also found it comforting,
Australia, even when Ash was still there. [using] shopping as a way of therapy …”
It was a lot of pressure coming from struggles in life JD: “Retail therapy!”
myself and being an Aussie and knowing AT: “Yeah, retail therapy. If I do well,
the country’s following you. They’re so have always I have a certain budget I like to reward
supportive that you also want to do it for myself with. That keeps a good balance so
them. But I’ve had so many moments turned out to I don’t overboard.”
where things went south and I was still
alive the next day. I know life goes on. be my greatest JD: “Beyond the Australian Open, what
does the rest of 2023 look like for you?
So I can’t control what my result will be,
but I want to come out without any regrets. blessings” What are your plans and goals?”
AT: “I feel like some of my best tennis is still
Regret is the worst feeling for me and in front of me, so I’m excited to capitalise
I’ve had quite a few in Australia where in on that in 2023 and make it happen. But
tight moments I didn’t do the right thing – I got tight or I’ve learned how to balance my life a lot better now and
I got scared and I don’t want that to happen [again].” I also hope that I get to do something completely different to
JD: “Your profile this year has skyrocketed, but with that tennis. Maybe slowly build some things on the side that can
comes expectation. How do you handle that? I know at the also take away my mind from hitting tennis balls.”
US Open you said you switched off your social media …” JD: “I could really see a new confidence and belief in you this
AT: “Back in March I realised social media has been a huge past year. I think as tennis players, we can sense and feel and
problem and I went on a three- or four-month sabbatical see these things. There’s this great image of you from the US
where I completely deleted it. My cousin was helping me Open with your hand on that plaque from Billie Jean King
with it because I wanted to find someone I really trust and and her quote: ‘Pressure is a privilege.’ I love that image. But it
knows me well, so I was still putting my life out there, but sounds to me like it’s been all about happiness, joy, wellbeing
I was not in contact with it. And it was amazing. I wanted to and mental health. Has that been the biggest takeaway?”
get to a point where I would learn how to manage it, but it’s AT: “Looking back, my biggest struggles and heartbreaks and
very hard and it sucks you back in. things that have happened in my life have always turned out to
“Now I’ve found a way where I’m pretty good at realising be my greatest blessings. And that’s the biggest takeaway. It’s
when I’m going overboard and when it’s affecting me. Even if not easy to [face your struggles]. I was hating tennis for a long
I switch it off for two weeks, it still helps me recharge and get time – a year for me is a very long time – and I didn’t know
into the right mindset. After the Serena match, I downloaded why, and I had to go deep with what was happening in my life.
it and then deleted it within an hour because I started getting “I’ve embraced that part of feeling truly good and not
all these messages [about] now I can win the tournament. faking it anymore. So yeah, the communication part has been
It started giving me extra pressure that I really didn’t need.” the biggest thing this year for me. And it’s crazy because I’m
JD: “What about your private life – is it important to keep so close to my people and even with them, I wasn’t always
that private? Have some of those setbacks or maybe break-ups a hundred per cent honest and I could fool them. Now, I’m
EMMA SUMMERTON

been difficult to handle because you are in the public eye?” an open book. As clichéd as it is, I do believe everything
AT: “Yeah, but I don’t know why. I’ve had two relationships happens for a reason and moving forward in my life, I think
and I feel like everyone knows about them for some reason. everything will come in its time and day. That makes me
I don’t know why my love life has been interesting to people. excited for the future.” ■

104
The Strong Women for
Healthy Country forum
was held within the
towering presence of the
East MacDonnell Ranges
amid the magical muted
pastel and silvery tones of
Eastern Arrernte Country.

108
Country strong
When First Nations women met at a forum unlike any other, they
weren’t only creating a shared vision of the future but safeguarding it
via a new generation of self-empowered custodians destined to make
change. By Nina Fitzgerald. Photographed by Marley Morgan.

Vogue January 2023 109


The Akeyulerre Healing Centre
held bush medicine workshops
using ingredients that have
been sourced to heal and
nurture for thousands of years.

The Strong Women for Healthy


Country vision statement.

Over the next four years, the Strong Women for Healthy much sanctuary as they do strength. It is for all women to
Country (SWHC) network has grown to include more than work together and walk side by side.
250 women from over 30 ranger groups, remote communities, The third conference on Eastern Arrernte Country, was
and towns right across the Northern Territory. These are hosted by Traditional Owner Therese Ryder and her family.
dedicated rangers, healers, Elders, and community workers They welcomed and watched over all attendees, sharing
who maintain family, career and community roles. their wisdom and wealth of their Country. Standing here
Coming together, the women share knowledge and important is indescribable. The stunning vista belies the power of the
cultural information through various yarning circles, covering ancient whispering stories and the people who have protected
topics from Indigenous land and sea management, leadership, them for centuries, and is the perfect meeting place to nurture
communication and mentorship, to healing self and Country, the strong spirit and pride of the SWHC network.
with traditional bush-healing workshops and medicinal plants This forum focused on the governance and leadership of
for everything from the common cold to insomnia, brought the network. The strong foundation from which the network
from homelands far and wide and shared among the network. can achieve its three-, five- and 10-year goals, which were
Conversations have enabled the women to develop also set out during the sessions of the week. One key aim
solidarity in building solutions to common problems in their is to provide the support for young women to value their
roles as cultural custodians, including the lack of dedicated own immense knowledge, experiences and contributions to
spaces, support, training and resources they need to feel safe Country and culture. The older women are adamant about
at work, and the underrepresentation of women in caring the need to foster the confidence of their younger daughters
for Country leadership and governance roles. In addressing and granddaughters to step into leadership roles.
these concerns, the women empower one another to face the Bolstered by Miller’s closing address, the last formal session
pressing issues of poverty, trauma and social issues afflicting ended with a large circle of all women, facing each other,
many of their families.  with confidence, honesty and the spirit of self-determination. 
A dedicated art space brings together the central spirit of Women then stepped forward putting their hands up
interconnectedness and empowerment of the women, with for the different roles of governance identified to guide
a collaborative art piece uniting the diverse cultures and the network, resulting in concentric circles of knowledge,
MARLEY MORGAN

songlines from right across the Northern Territory. generation to generation. If not a leader this time round,
Led by Aboriginal women, for Aboriginal women, the the next generations stand tall, ready to step forward
network bridges the gaps of geographical isolation and is when the strength of the network and the wisdom of time
a space for healing and growing, where women find as propels them forward.

110
Josephine from Banatjarl
Strongbala Wimun Grup.

Cindy Rostron (centre) and her mother


Jay Jurrupula Rostron (right) enveloped
Granddaughter of Annette Miller, Cindy Rostron, a Vogue
in smoke from the Welcome to East cover model, TikTok icon, aspiring ranger and Kune Dalabon
Arrernte Country by Traditional Owner
Therese Ryder and her family.
Rembarrnga woman, also attended the event. Among the
youngest of attendees, Rostron, who was surrounded by
family from across West Arnhem Land, observed and listened.
“It was great. I loved it. Everyone was communicating about
really important things, like how to be strong women, how to
look after ourselves and our Country. I realised this network,
the way women are connected to one another, is powerful.
Being together is amazing.
“I felt supported and safe standing with all those women,
young and old, talking with each other, communicating about
how we have different culture, different knowledge and skills.
“I heard women say they are struggling in their communities.
It is important to listen to our voice. We all share the same
problems across our communities, but together we have one
strong voice and a chance to make a difference.
“I am a young girl learning how to be a woman and I want
to speak for my people and our rights. This was my first time
sitting with that many powerful daluk daluk (many women).
This is the first time Indigenous women are coming together
like this to rewrite our story. It is really exciting.
“There are strong women here in the Northern Territory,
but they need support. With this network we are supporting
each other. I feel proud of what’s happening. It was good to
hear all those other young women’s voices, too, and the old
ladies had very good advice and knowledge. They were really
acknowledging us, encouraging us to be strong. They are
teaching us how to look after ourselves and our land. They
were asking us to share our voices because we are the new
generation to speak up for the future of our people.” ■

Vogue January 2023 111


Treasure island
As Dolce & Gabbana marks 10 years of Alta Moda, the Italian house takes over
Sicily for a baroque-inspired celebration of heavenly couture. By Dana Thomas.
Styled by Julia Sarr-Jamois. Photographed by Angelo Pennetta.
Eighty 3D flowers
festoon this
breathtaking skirt.
They denote the
brand’s mastery in
Italian chiaroscuro.
Dolce & Gabbana
haute couture tulle
and lace corset,
embroidered faille
skirt, lingerie,
jewellery, gloves
and stockings.

112
Vogue January 2023 113
and watching toga-garbed actors and musicians
perform in classical tableaux. “Mmm, delicious,”
Sharon Stone gushed to the mozzarella maker as
she bit into his freshly made cheese at the jaunty
market-like afterparty, which closed with opera
and a piano recital in the Teatro Greco, a fifth-
century BC amphitheatre that is now a Unesco
World Heritage Site.
The following afternoon, guests napped by
hotel pools, toured the city’s historic sites,
dropped into the Dolce & Gabbana pop-up at
the Grand Hotel Ortigia – where some serious
shopping was done – and attended jewellery
appointments, where even more serious buys
were made. “We’ve already ordered the ear cuffs
and a cross, and we’re negotiating for a 100-carat
diamond,” one American client told me, referring
to the Sicilia necklace, with a 100.1-carat pear-
shaped yellow diamond.
At dusk, it was off to the women’s couture
show, Alta Moda, on the Piazza Duomo, where
guests, including Mariah Carey and Drew
Barrymore, outfitted in tiaras and shiny gowns,
watched from cafe tables as the hour-long show
– a procession inspired by Pietro Mascagni’s
opera Cavalleria Rusticana – unfurled before
the looming cathedral. “It’s not just the
clothes, the two metres of pearl, of pleats…
It’s about the sacro [sacraments], about the fede
[faith], about the family, about Sicily and – so
important – it’s about black,” Domenico Dolce
said. “It’s a style of life.”
Later that evening, everyone was ferried to
a pasta-heavy beach supper, where everything
A look from Dolce & – the tables, the chairs, the waiters, the cabana-
Gabbana Alta Moda. boy dancers and a good many clients – was
dressed in Dolce & Gabbana’s dazzling blue-
and-white majolica print. On Sunday night
icily has always been at the heart of Dolce was Alta Sartoria, the high-fashion menswear line, in the
& Gabbana. Domenico Dolce hails from ancient fishing village of Marzamemi. Locals lined the
Polizzi Generosa, a medieval town near streets, waving and snapping pictures as guests – many
Palermo, and the duo’s opulent, maximalist wearing new jewellery and fashion purchases – glided down
approach to design and style embraces the cobblestones to their seats along the quay. More than
and builds upon the Mediterranean isle’s a hundred Byzantine-inspired handcrafted looks, including
rich baroque history. And so, how perfect bejewelled tunics and breastplates, long silk skirts and lean
that they chose Syracuse, a 2,700-year- lamé suits, passed before their eyes as the sun set across the bay.
old city on Sicily’s Ionian coast, for their Like everything at Alta Moda, all was ‘made in Italy’. “Two-
10th anniversary Alta Moda event in July. thirds will be sold before this is over,” the guest to my left
For four days and nights – mainly nights – whispered as we watched. Indeed, more than three-quarters
Dolce & Gabbana threw lavish shows and crazy-fun fetes to of the couture had been purchased by the end of the event.
COURTESY DOLCE & GABBANA, ANGELO PENNETTA

celebrate the beauty and charm of the region, honour Italy’s “Clients text pictures of what they want during the show.”
artisans and ring up millions in sales (clients are said to drop The festive marathon closed on Monday night with a party
an average of $152,000. No small affair was this: 20 hotels, at the 13th-century Castello Maniace, with vats of spaghetti
900 workers and 50 caterers all contributed to make the pomodoro, lots of Dolce & Gabbana animal prints and
magic happen. And what magic it was. Ciara, in a black gown and an enormous black picture hat,
On the first night, Alta Moda’s more than 700 guests, singing 1,2 Step, as Dolce danced the night away. For some,
including Helen Mirren and her husband, the director Taylor the night ended at dawn. That much was clear at breakfast
Hackford, Kris Jenner and the brand’s top clients, drifted on Tuesday morning, when guests readied to head to Catania
through the cathedral-like Grotta Dei Cordari, or Airport. “What an exhausting weekend,” one client, garbed
Ropemakers Caves, in the Neapolis Archaeological Park, in Dolce & Gabbana silk pyjamas, a Dolce & Gabbana thick
ogling at vitrines displaying Dolce & Gabbana’s Alta gold chain with a large, gem-encrusted cross and Dolce
Gioielleria collection of Hellenic-inspired statement jewels & Gabbana sunglasses, said. “I can’t wait for next year.” ■

114
Dolce & Gabbana tulle and lace
corset, lace skirt, lingerie, veil,
jewellery, gloves and stockings.
Hair: Jordan Robertson
Make-up: Jenna Kuchera
Production: Sicily Productions
Digital artwork: Output London
Model: Grace Elizabeth

Vogue January 2023 115


SWEPT AWAY
Take a wanderer’s route in fashion that speaks of unending days
away in haphazard layers, free-spirited dresses and romantic details to
transport a mood. Styled by Poppy Kain. Photographed by Lachlan Bailey.

Throw caution to the


wind and embrace
overt romanticism
in Christian Dior’s
craft-laden approach.
Christian Dior jacket,
$45,000, dress and
blouse, worn underneath,
both P.O.A. Goossens
earrings, $220, and
ring, on left hand, $235.
Melanie Georgacopoulos
ring, on right hand, $220.
Isabel Marant belt, $175.
Barbour x Chloé boots,
P.O.A. Headscarf,
stylist’s own.

116
Vogue January 2023 117
LACHLAN BAILEY
Dramatic scenery
calls for high-drama
maxi-skirts à la Saint
Laurent. Pair with a
hardworking mac to
imbue with an
outdoors spirit.
Saint Laurent jacket
and dress, both P.O.A.
Barbour x Chloé boots,
P.O.A. Almasika
earrings, P.O.A.,
necklace, $14,470,
and bracelet, $6,700.
Goossens ring,
$235. Scarf and
bag, stylist’s own.
McQueen’s signature
embellishment
reaches new levels
of elegance when
golden-hour light
dances across it.
Alexander McQueen
top and skirt, both
P.O.A. Melanie
Georgacopoulos
necklace, P.O.A. Almasika
LACHLAN BAILEY

ring, on index finger,


$2,220. Ellis Mhairi
Cameron ring, on
middle finger, P.O.A.
Grandpa jumpers and granny
slips are comfort personified.
Choose styles with stories
stitched into the seams,
as seen at Louis Vuitton.
Louis Vuitton sweater, P.O.A.
Brora slip dress, $220. Melanie
Georgacopoulos ring, on right
hand, $220. Goossens ring, on
left hand, $235. Scarf
and bag, stylist’s own.
LACHLAN BAILEY
Anchor Gucci’s
time-travelling
references in the
now with modern
heirlooms, such as
pretty pearls.
Gucci dress,
$139,000. Goossens
earrings, $220.
Tiffany & Co.
necklace, $1,500.
When Chanel
does garden parties,
you can be certain
they’ll go on long
past dusk.
Joesph coat, $1,705,
Chanel dress, $7,000,
from the Chanel
boutiques. Almasika
necklace (top),
$14,470. Tiffany
& Co. necklace,
$2,000. Gigi Burris
hat, $640. Brora
socks, $89. Penelope
Chilvers clogs, $355.
Hair: Ryan Mitchell
Make-up: Niamh Quinn
Production:
LACHLAN BAILEY

LS Productions
Digital artwork:
Wildhack Retouching
Model: Ida Heiner
Beauty

Fake it to make it
There’s no excuse for
sun damage. Bondi Sands
1 Hour Express Self
Tanning Foam, $22.95,
is the Australian brand’s
best-selling product
for good reason.

Heat rising
Nice try, summer. Humidity and heat normally nix our
plans for perfect-looking hair, skin and make-up, but we’ve
got a survival strategy in place, says EUGENIE KELLY.
PHOTOGRAPHS
HENRIK PURIENNE.

126
B
eauty journalism has evolved
massively over the past 70 years –
a google and comb through online
archives is proof of how perspectives
change. Case in point: US Vogue,
February 1962’s report on ‘How to use a boat as
a beauty treatment’. No one’s denying the power
of the briny scent of salt in the air when it comes to
enlivening the senses … It’s just that now we know
a stint at sea leaves one with straw-like stressed
strands, a mottled complexion, lizard limbs and
perhaps even promoting the dreaded skin cancer.
Boats and beauty don’t go together. End of story.
That said, the reality of Australian life is
that the beach is our backyard. And with the
fingerprint of climate change revealing itself
through more intense heatwaves and volatile
weather patterns, we’re experiencing summers
on steroids. Our products now not only have to
be built in a certain way to withstand seasonal
changes (meaning eau de parfums with formulas
that mean they don’t dissolve in the heat and
make-up that doesn’t melt), but they also have to
protect and repair like never before.
To determine the best hair and skin saviours
to get us through summer 2022-23, Vogue
consulted the pros, and then spent a week
road-testing our ultimate edit in what’s perhaps
Australia’s prettiest but most unforgiving
environment: Ningaloo Marine Park Reef on
Australia’s north-west coast where we sailed
260 kilometres of fringing reef on a catamaran.
Here’s what stood up to the elements.

Face forward
The blinding white sands and azure waters
of Western Australia’s Turquoise Bay see it
frequently ranked as one of the world’s most
beautiful beaches, but a few hours here is on par with
being popped in an air fryer. Often measuring a UV index
reading of 12 (read: extreme), the UVA and UVB rays in
STYLIST: GEORGIA BEDEL MODEL: NATASJA MADSEN ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHS:

this location exacerbate pigmentation, age spots, freckles and


EDWARD URRUTIA ALL PRICES APPROXIMATE DETAILS AT VOGUE.COM.AU/WTB

even angiogenesis (translation – excessive blood vessels) in


record time, but it’s also worth noting that heat (think high
30-degree temperatures during warmer months) in the form
of infrared radiation also feeds pigmentation, along with
melasma and rosacea.
According to Dr Natasha Cook, founder of Darlinghurst
Dermatology, DrNC skincare and The Face Bar laser clinic, it
takes mere minutes for the Pac-Man-like enzymes activated
by UV rays to destroy and digest your skin’s collagen and
elastin levels, which leads to saggy, wrinkled and sallow skin.
“Summer sun is the single biggest culprit when it comes to Seeking For a For a daily ESTÉE LAUDER
a lighter powerhouse protector, try the Re-Nutriv
damaging our skin cells’ DNA and metaplasia. I liken UVA moisturiser? Try vitamin C hydrating DRNC Ultimate
and UVB as fertiliser for the development of skin cancer. You SISLEY Hydra serum, look to Concentrated Diamond
Global Intense DR. DENNIS CC+ Cream SPF Transformative
must make SPF and antioxidants your daily skin religion.” Anti-Aging GROSS 15% 30, $77, which Brilliance
Hopefully, most of us already have rigorous daily SPF Hydration, Vitamin C has physical Serum, $357, uses
application habits in play. But on the antioxidant side, experts $315, for its Firm & Bright UVA and UVB black diamond
featherweight Serum, $128. blockers, vitamin truffle to help
agree summer is the time to add niacinamide B3 (daily) and cream-gel B3 to repair and firm the skin.
vitamin C (at night, advises Cook, as it degrades in → texture. a hint of tint.

Vogue January 2023 127


Beauty

the sun) into your regimen, and if you’re wearing heavy


sunscreens, double cleaning is a must. “I’m not a foaming
cleanser fan,” states Cook. “It’s one of the single biggest
culprits in creating skin diseases, so I recommend gentle
cleansers, but going twice.”
Not as life-threatening, but annoying nevertheless, is
humidity. On Australia’s west coast where the air is drier,
moving into summer may result in seeking out a more
hydrating, richer moisturiser, especially around the lips.
While, if you reside in east coast hubs such as Sydney or
Brisbane where humidity is an issue, paring back to a lighter
lotion may feel more appealing. You might assume humidity
exacerbates skin’s oiliness, but technically that’s not true,
though it does have an occlusive effect. “And that contributes
to breakouts if you’re an acne sufferer,” says Cook. “Salicylic
acid will help minimise that.”
Adding an AHA or BHA serum to your regimen can
also help prevent congestion and blocked follicles, as well
as help even out skin tone. However, if you’re serious about
pigmentation prevention, add in a weekly AHA/BHA peel
and ensure you’re also applying niacinamide and vitamin
C daily. “Using more than one antioxidant daily is better
than one alone,” says Cook. “B3 prevents DNA damage, Hair help
protects the skin’s immune system from the sun, strengthens The number-one tip experts share when it comes to protecting
the barrier and assists with pigmentation prevention. Both your hair in summer: wear a hat. But according
vitamin B and vitamin C act as excellent antioxidants to trichologist Anabel Kingsley, brand president of Philip
together. Adding a prescriptive vitamin A to your regimen Kingsley, the brand’s Swimcap [$46.95], a water-resistant hair
a few nights a week will also help maintain even skin tone mask, will do the same thing. “Hair burns like skin, but because
throughout summer.” it isn’t a living tissue, you don’t feel it. UV, sweat, seawater,
chlorine – it all causes colour fade and change. Styling your
hair with a UV protectant like our Daily Damage Defence
Leave-in Conditioning Spray [$55] will definitely help.”
It’s hair colour rather than a strand’s diameter – aka
its thickness – that determines how susceptible you are to
sun damage. “The darker the shade, the more melanin it
contains,” says Kingsley. “When your hair absorbs UVB
radiation, free radicals are produced, which can lead to
protein loss from the shaft weakening it. However, melanin
can partially immobilise free radicals, and therefore help to
protect against protein loss. Melanin can also absorb and
filter UV radiation.” That’s why you see lighter hair more
common in colder parts of the world like Scandinavia, and
darker hair in hotter regions like Africa.
Sydney colourist Damien Rayner, whose ‘bronde’ and
blonde work is of legendary status, advises that as soon as
you exit the water, rinse the residue and apply a leave-in
conditioner to dilute any leftover minerals, salt or chlorine.
ALL PRICES APPROXIMATE DETAILS AT VOGUE.COM.AU/WTB

And mask, mask, mask whenever you can. “Treat masks like
a course of antibiotics,” says Rayner. “Use one every time you
wash your hair for a minimum of at least the first five washes.
This will help build up condition far quicker than that old
myth of ‘once a week’.”
HENRIK PURIENNE, EDWARD URRUTIA

Rayner says the most effective masks when it comes to


hydrating thirsty strands are cream water-based formulas
mixed with nourishing oils. The water’s smaller molecules
help the oils’ larger molecules penetrate the hair shaft, and
while oils provide nourishment, they still lock in moisture.
“Look for seed oils (olive, grape, jojoba) and butters (cocoa
and shea) in the mid area of the ingredients list. Blonde
tones also need to avoid masks with colour in them or appear
darker orange as that just dulls blonde hair.” →
Beauty

Body blast
Need an all-rounder for
fragile zones prone to
environmental damage?
Perricone MD Cold Plasma
Plus+ Fragile Skin Therapy,
$74, has peptides to
correct tone and texture,
hyaluronic acid to combat
crepiness, and retinol to
exfoliate any age spots.
Rayner is also a big fan of pre-shampoo
treatments but adds they’re in the business of
rebuilding the bonds in hair rather than making
them feel soft. If you’re at a stage where you’re
contemplating snipping off split ends, try one
first. “They contain a much higher level of
actives as they’re meant to be shampooed off
(thus they don’t weigh hair down) and won’t
leave it as frizzy as it would be otherwise.”
“Look for formulas that contain humectants,”
agrees Kingsley. The function of a humectant is
to retain water and prevent moisture loss such as
glycerine and glycol.”
The trick to dealing with humidity is to get the
outermost layer of the hair – the cuticle – to lay
flat. You’d assume styling with anti-humidity
products (which contain silicone) is the answer,
but if you’re into volume, these can deflate
oomph. “Don’t be afraid to mix things up,” says
Rayner. “One product won’t give you everything
you need. I adore Color Wow’s Dream Coat, but
it doesn’t work as well on fine hair, so I use it with
other products – an oil on the ends, the Dream
Coat anti-humidity product from roots to end,
and then a light spray of a heat shield over the
top to dilute it, so I can end up getting bounce.”

Make-up magic
When the mercury hits 30-plus and it’s horrifically
humid, you’ve probably got a heatwave-proof
make-up plan already in place. You know the
drill. Skip powder blushes for gel-cream blushes
that don’t budge; steer clear of lipsticks and glosses
and instead opt for lip oils or stains; and invest
in a make-up-setting spray that fixes everything
in place and can be pulled out to reset and refresh
as necessary. But what’s most important – and 4.
what covid had a hand in changing – is that no
one wants a full face of foundation, especially this time of year.
It’s now about lighter base layers – buildable skin tints – that
still manage to pack a pigmented punch, but also offer extras
like respectable SPFs, antioxidants or shine control. Try these:
1. NARS Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer, $69. 2. HERMÈS Plein Air
Complexion Balm SPF 30, $130. 3. ULTRA VIOLETTE Daydream Screen 1.
Tinted Veil SPF 50, $55. 4. CHANEL Ultra Le Teint Ultrawear Flawless
Finish Foundation, $95.

Body brilliance
ALL PRICES APPROXIMATE DETAILS AT VOGUE.COM.AU/WTB

Snorkelling for hours through Ningaloo’s under-sea canyons


and colourful sponge gardens is meditative for the mind,
but the saltwater leaves skin almost scale-like. “After
swimming, shower with oil-based non-soap hydrating body
HENRIK PURIENNE, EDWARD URRUTIA

products followed by moisturiser,” prescribes Cook. “Also


remember that heavy water-resistant sunscreen use requires
double cleansing.”
Sweating can also cause ‘bacne’ or folliculitis (breakouts
that commonly occur on the buttocks, arms and legs). “Three
times a week, mixing a benzoyl wash with a gentle body
wash (benzoyl alone can be irritating) and leaving it on for
a minute before showering off should prevent ‘bacne’ related
to sweating,” says Cook. ■

Vogue January 2023 131


Beauty

True
star
Authenticity is central
to everything TRINNY
WOODALL does, and at
58 years young, the make-
up and now skincare
maven shares her truth,
tips and tricks for looking
your best at any age, and
especially during midlife.
ART DIRECTION A RQUETTE COOKE
PHOTOGRAPH EDWA RD URRUTI A

B
eing real. It’s something 16 rounds of IVF, the struggles of bathroom. “Because for 20 years, I’ve
Trinny Woodall learned single parenting after the death of religiously had a skincare routine. I have
the importance of in the her daughter Lyla’s father in 2014, friends who do Botox and things that
early 2000s co-hosting the the minefield of menopause, and her are quite well-known in the public eye,
British makeover TV show regular use of Botox from the age of 35. but they haven’t had a skincare routine.
obsession, What Not to Wear. It’s also So when it came to promoting her own I look at the texture of their skin, the
an ethos she has since upheld across brand, launched from her kitchen table vibrancy of the skin, the bounce of the
social media with her no-holds-barred in 2017 and now valued at around $300 skin, and it’s not there. So as much as
approach that’s catnip to her millions of million, forget airbrushed supermodel you do ‘tweakments’, daily nourishing
fans, and through her inclusive make-up faces – on TrinnyLondon.com you’ll of your skin, putting ingredients on it,
and skincare empire Trinny London. “It instead see Woodall at 58, alongside getting it into this rhythm, nurturing it
is the most important thing,” the British other real women aged 40 to 80 – the with your goddamn fingers, is the most
fashion and beauty icon reinforces brand’s hyper-engaged demographic. important thing to do consistently.”
sitting in her Sydney hotel suite on These days Trinny London sells a As for her own skincare journey,
a whistle-stop tour to open pop-ups stackable pot of its cult Miracle Blur Woodall says it began in her teens
in Sydney and Melbourne. “Because primer every 60 seconds, while its starting with Clinique’s 3 Step program,
IMAGES: COURTESY TRINNY LONDON

there’s so much fakery around, from Match2Me online store interface, before moving through beauty trends
the marketing of ingredients that are which took two years to mastermind, from the spa brands of the 80s to the
WORDS: KATRINA ISRAEL

actually in products, to how people talk delivers some 3,600 individual skin doctor brands of the 90s, followed by
about what they’ve had done to their prescriptions and revolutionised the the single-ingredient boom of the
face. Let’s be honest,” she enthuses. online make-up space in the process. 20-teens. “When you have bad skin from
And she is. Over her decades in the Now Woodall has turned her hand a young age you become obsessive,” she
public eye, Woodall has talked openly to skincare. “Why is my skin good?” says, “and from 13, I had acne until I was
about her road to sobriety, enduring she asks, mid DIY facial in her hotel 30, so I tried everything!” Read on …

132
VOGUE AUSTRALIA: As time I’ll use a little moisturiser – I use our training, which is the most important
goes by, is your beauty routine getting peptide moisturiser, Bounce Back.” kind of exercise any woman can do at
simpler or more complex? VA: Your instant skin pick-me-ups? this stage in her life because you need to
TRINNY WOODALL: “It’s getting TW: “A LED mask for sure. I even support the bones with strong muscle.
refined because I know exactly what travel with it. I think LED for post- For me, if I feel physically strong,
to do with my skin now, whereas jet-lag skin, or for skin that’s suffering I have mental strength. So I do strength
over the years, I experimented and hormonal breakouts or feels tired, training three times a week. I also do
went too extreme or did too little. is amazing. I will put an acid on yoga twice a week because when my
So, like my clothing style, which I before, then go under for 40 minutes. brain is running at a thousand miles an
kind of think I’ve pinpointed [think I notice the regeneration that LED hour and I can’t switch off, the exertion
mood-enhancing colour, shimmer done properly will provide the skin. and the breathing of yoga makes me
and texture], the same applies to my I also microneedle twice a week. I think focus just on one thing.”
skincare routine I know that every day aggravation to the skin stimulates the VA: Healthy eating tips that help you?
I will have points in my skincare creation of new collagen, which gets TW: “Sugar is the devil, it really is.
routine that I will hit, and I know what harder as we go down the path of life. As you get older, inflammation is
I’ll also do twice a week to reinforce the biggest concern, and this is the
and amplify my skin.” beginning of bad inflammation. I feel
VA: What’s the most surprising if your body is inflamed, it can lead
change that you’ve noticed in your to illness. If I keep my body without
skin in recent years? any triggers for inflammation, I’ve got
TW: “The bad: if you’ve ever suffered a better chance of being healthier.”
from acne, as you go into menopause, VA: What tips can you share for
your skin does separate a little bit – balancing fluctuating hormones?
I notice my scarring a bit more. Good, is TW: “Find the right person to treat you.
since I’ve started using peptides on my Many people take a very classic approach
skin, I feel I’ve got some life back that and issue off-the-shelf HRT, sometimes
I lost when I hit menopause.” without even taking hormone levels. In
VA: Morning must-dos? a worst-case scenario, which still happens,
TW: “I clean my skin with a Trinny they give women antidepressants when
London Be Your Best Enzyme Balm women come into the surgery talking
Cleanser and I will always do a little about feeling alone – it’s probably because
bit of lymphatic drainage on my face. those women are hormone imbalanced.
I think drainage is a key component “I think one of the most important
of skincare. I always do a PHA acid things for women is to respect and treat
in the morning – I use Tiptoe In from their hormone situation. Whether that’s
Trinny London. My latest craze is to understanding early the things you can
use peptides on my skin, and I use them take to support yourself – it could be
combined with hyaluronic acid from our mood-lifters like Magnolia Rhodiola, it
Plump Up by Trinny London. This is I have Botox twice a year, and I do could be things to help you sleep better
probably the most innovative serum I’ve fractional radio frequency on my skin like Cherry Night Powder, and it could
ever developed, and ever tried, and it because I think it’s softer than laser be going to see professional hormone
adds this incredible layer to my skin that but helps to even out acne scarring endocrinologists and specialists who can
gives it plumpness and bounce. I follow and gently resurfaces the skin. But it is treat you properly with a combination
with a vitamin C, moisturiser and SPF.” stronger than microneedling.” of hormones and also tweak them.
VA: And the evening? VA: What beauty rules do you live by? It’s really important when you start to
TW: “My night-time routine is to TW: “In 35 years, I have never gone have hormone changes that you don’t
double cleanse; I’ve done that for 35 to bed with my make-up on. I think just get a prescription and use it for
years. Once to take off my make-up when you suffer from acne when you a year and then get it refilled, because
and once to really clean the skin and are younger, you realise anything can over a number of years your hormone
polish it up ready for the next layer, clog the pores. I’ve worn SPF 50 on fluctuation changes tremendously and
using our AHA/PHA Gel Cleanser. my face for about 15 years, and I put you might need more support. I believe
Then I use an AHA. I’ll probably use our face acids on my body. It’s a real that I will not be the person who says,
that three times a week because my luxury and it’s probably only because ‘I’ll stop taking them now I’ve gone
skin is quite used to it, but we must be I own the brand that I do that, but the through menopause’, because I think
very careful with AHAs because they result is incredible – my body skin has hormone treatment can help the body
can be strong and people sometimes changed profoundly.” defend itself against illnesses and
overuse them. After that, I do a spritz VA: What is your approach to fitness? diseases that affect women in later life.
of a mist – I love Sisley’s Florale Mist. TW: “I see fitness as 50 per cent mental There is a lot of research being done right
And then I use a retinoid – retinal in wellness and 50 per cent agility for my now around the importance hormones
my case because it only converts once life. What I mean by that is as you hit can play and hormone replacement can
to get inside the skin and to work and menopause, you want your body to play in this – so I will be taking them
become retinoic acid. Then, if I need it, feel it works for you. So I do strength until they nail down my coffin.”

Vogue January 2023 133


2.

Clear
advantage
Keep lips supple with a
slick of any one of these
luxurious moisturisers
for balmy days and 1.

nights ahead.
3.

9.

7.

6.

8.
Beauty launches

is hydrated more than usual. Skin


naturally sweats more in summer, so it’s
vital that we replenish this water loss to
retain optimal skin hydration.
“Gently exfoliate at home. Depending
on your skin type and the other products
you’re using, exfoliating once a week
will help keep your skin clear, bright,
and glowing. It’s essential to remove that
dead layer so treatment and hydrating

Endless summer
products can properly absorb. Remember
to only use your exfoliating agents at
night. Whether it is manual or a liquid
agent, your skin is more sensitised to
light post-exfoliation. And, of course,
glowing skin is on full display. As we head to the it goes without saying, wear broad-
spectrum SPF 50+ every day.”
heart of summer, Dior Beauty’s local skin expert, VA: What about a hero product?
DP: “A multivitamin serum, something
DIANDRA POLITANO, reveals how to get the most that is deeply hydrating and can
out of your complexion. By MAHALIA CHANG. guarantee to give back everything we
lose when exposed to the sun. This is
where I would suggest my clients invest a
VOGUE AUSTRALIA: How do you DP: “The skin concerns I see in summer little. I love the Dior Prestige La Micro-
define good summer skin? are always impacted by an increase in oil Huile de Rose Advanced Serum, it’s
DIANDRA POLITANO: “Skin at production and increase in sun exposure like a green juice for your skin drenching
its optimum health, from targeted care resulting in dehydration, so keep up it in 22 different micronutrients. The
taken all year round. Good summer regular facials, including peels and LED texture is lightweight, yet provides the
skin is not necessarily perfect and clear; Light Therapy. Clinic treatments are most incredible visible glow, with long-
however, it is naturally glowing and great for boosting cell turnover, infusing term benefits to the skin.”
hydrated from a well-balanced diet and actives, brightening the skin, and VA: If you were trapped on a deserted
a sophisticated skincare regimen. It’s regenerating the collagen and elastin in island, what three things would you
glowing, calm, at its full potential of the skin that can be affected with the take with you?
health, hydrated and balanced.” increase in UVA and UVB exposure. DP: “SPF, an unlimited supply of
VA: What is your best advice for “Keep hydrated internally and drinking water, and my husband (for
boosting glow and radiance? externally. It’s important that your skin company, logistics and finding food).”

Brand to know: RAAIE


From the wild landscape of Aotearoa comes beauty brand Raaie.
Harnessing active oceanic and alpine botanicals from founder Katey
Mandy’s native New Zealand, such as locally grown grape seeds and
blackcurrants, Raaie’s two products focus on luminosity and brightness as
their drawcards. The brand launched in 2022 with two products, the
Morning Dew Vitamin C Serum and the overnight Yellow Moonbeam

From left: RA AIE Yellow Moon Beam Retinal Elixir, $157; RA AIE Morning Dew Vitamin C Serum, $153.

136
PIN DROP:
Sophie Roberts,
Potts Point
Inspired by the opulent curving
lines of Art Deco and the
intimate moodiness of retro
boudoirs, hairstylist and
ZIMMERMANN long-time Vogue Australia
resort ’23. contributor Sophie Roberts’s new
Potts Point salon pays homage to
FENDI “the lineage of craftsmen that
resort ’23.
came before me”. A former
barber shop transformed by
Roberts and builder Spencer
Blake, the new space will make
clients feel at home during
their one-on-one personalised
styling appointments.

Heaven scent
Just like sea changes and
new loves, a scent can
hold the key to cherished 1.
Backstage insider memories. Mark the heart
THE LOOK: Blush up of summer with a fresh,
THE LOW-DOWN: bright new scent. Calling
If you can only fit one make-up
product into your glamorous mini on hearty rose notes,
bag on the way to your evening saffrons and cinnamons,
soireé, skip the concealer and the these fragrances are
lipstick and grab a blush. Whether
cream or liquid, an all-over sweep of as intoxicating as
blush – mimicking a fresh beach- a warm summer night.
day flush, without the sun – is
the easiest way to amp
up a summer look, just see Fendi’s
blushing resort ’23 party girl.
Pat a sweet pink or peach into 2.
the cheeks and lips and use the
remainder over the top of the eyelid 1. BYREDO EYES
for the ultimate healthy glow. CLOSED EDP,
100ML FOR $316.
Spicy cardamom
and cinnamon are the
star attractions of
MAIN IMAGE: PHOTOGRAPH: EDDIE WREY MODEL: GRACE ELIZABETH

Dry hair, tame Byredo’s new scent,


flyaways, smooth along with warming
ginger and carrot.
waves, define curls
2. MATIERE PREMIERE
and add volume –
OTHER IMAGES: GORUNWAY.COM, EDWARD URRUTIA

CRYSTAL SAFFRON
Dyson’s Supersonic EDP, 100ML FOR $349.
A unique Greek saffron
hair dryer, now and incense oil from
available in a sleek Somalia are the base of
this musky, spicy parfum.
copper colourway,
3. CHLOÉ ROSE
does the job of five NATURELLE INTENSE
products in one. EDP, 100ML FOR $237.
3.
Combining fragrant rose
Talk about a with neroli and bergamot,
hard worker. this balances perfectly
between floral and woody.
DYSON Supersonic hair dryer,
$599, from Harvey Norman.

Vogue January 2023 137


Soirée

Ann Thongprasom and


Naphat Siangsomboon. Gabriella Brooks. Teresa Palmer.

Decorative lighting
on the waterfront. Rüfüs Du Sol.

Must see
Sydney Harbour put on a dazzling
display for the launch of Louis
Vuitton’s travelling exhibition, See LV,
with the lawn outside the Museum of
Contemporary Art welcoming more
than 650 guests to the spring event. The
fifth stop on a tour that’s so far visited
Wuhan, Hangzhou, Dubai and Tokyo,
the exhibition explores the maison’s Troye Sivan.
heritage from the early-20th century in
Georgia Fowler. five immersive curatorial universes (the
third chapter is set inside a full-size
skate ramp) and showcases an incredible
collection of early 20th-century trunks,
artistic collaborations and iconic leather
creations. Celebrities in attendance,
from Troye Sivan to Teresa Palmer, were
treated to a live performance by Rüfüs

Keiynan Lonsdale.
DUALISM, HUSTLE MEDIA, LIZ SUNSHINE

Aisha Dee.

138 Ayesha Madon. Bambi Northwood-Blyth. Victoria Lee.


Tayla Damir. Christian Wilkins.

Field day
This year’s Melbourne Cup Carnival
was charged with even more excitement
than usual, with the week-long
schedule of racing, entertainment,
and fashion returning to Flemington Anna
Heinrich.
at full capacity for the first time
since covid. The Victoria Racing Club
calendar highlight also coincided with
the 60th anniversary of Myer’s Fashions
on the Field, which, for the first time
ever, centred on diversity and inclusion,

Delta Goodrem.

Rozalia Suzy
Russian. Eskander.

Vogue January 2023 139


VOGUE PROMOTION

A mer ic an
K LP at the
ation.
Ex pres s ac tiv

shows wrapped, it was time to shop.

BACK TO BUSINESS

American Express
in-store experience.

another level.
Front row for the fashion show.
Sydney Lord Mayor
Clover Moore

KLP getting ready Rey Vakili.


at QT Sydney.

Vogue Australia’s Dress For Success masterclass


Mahalia Chang. with Kathryn Eisman (left) and
Vogue Australia’s Jessica Montague.

Delicious snacks from


Vibe Wholefood.

The Vogue 360 camera.


LUCAS DAWSON PHOTOGRAPHY
Thelma Plum.

Emporium Melbourne
Hidden Runway at Deni To dorovic
(left)
Melbourne Fashion Week. and Vogue’s
Je ssica Monta
gue.

Performer
KYE.
LUCAS DAWSON PHOTOGRAPHY

Melbourne’s Lord Mayor Sally Capp


(far right) welcomes the crowd.
Horoscope

Capricorn Taurus Virgo


22 December-20 January 21 April-21 May 24 August-22 September
You’re feeling valued under the influence Your ruler Venus shifts into your career Love yourself more and you’ll let others
of Venus. Decisive again with Mercury zone now where your unique input get closer to you now, too. Venus is
out of retrograde in your sign, your is valued. Financial rewards, a work getting you relationship-ready, as the
health and work routines also make romance or a new role could arise under planet of love and money glides into
progress thanks to Mars turning the New Moon’s influence. Wayward your partnership zone at the month’s
direct now, too. A Full Moon sees you spending gets realigned with Mercury end. Your ruler Mercury does a U-turn
ditching the “same old, same old” moves out of retrograde and as you embrace out of retrograde to aid communication
when rebellious planet Uranus revs up the new you with quirky planet Uranus and Mars also moves forward now to
romance, but empathy is your BFF when in your sign, prepare for harmony with see you powering through previously
Venus restyles the way you connect. your hopes, dreams and go-to crew. frustrating work commitments.
STYLE ICON: Adut Akech Bior STYLE ICON: Gugu Mbatha-Raw STYLE ICON: Billie Piper

Aquarius Gemini Libra


21 January-18 February 22 May-21 June 23 September-23 October
This month you have Venus, the Sun New experiences feel electric now with It’s an OMG month with so much
and a New Moon bringing a sparkle to Venus and a New Moon opening doors cosmic action in your zone of romance
your eye, so what’s fresh, new, rebellious to travel, media, study and spirituality and creativity. Your ruler Venus lights
or outrageous has got your name on or to a potential soulmate. Harnessing up love and a New Moon boosts new
it. Romance relights after a drab spell your passion is likely, too, with dynamic beginnings. Home issues get easier to
in reverse and you’re organised and Mars out of retrograde in your sign. discuss with Mercury post-retrograde
determined with Mercury in forward Your ruler Mercury flips forward to and big plans also have less aggro and
motion. Home is quirky under the give you a handle on commitments, and more urgency with Mars back on form.
influence of your ruler, Uranus, and Venus makes loving your job the way Under the care of Venus, pamper rather
Venus casts a rosy glow over finances. to end the month on a high. than push your way to wellbeing.
STYLE ICON: Shakira STYLE ICON: Abbey Lee STYLE ICON: Bella Hadid

Pisces Cancer Scorpio


19 February-20 March 22 June-22 July 24 October-22 November
Emotions and ideas are waiting to be There’s more to you than others think Venus plus a New Moon suggest a
unleashed but for now meditate on what there is. The “old” you is over now home makeover, a house move or even
you want to manifest. Passion for home thanks to a Full Moon in your sign, a rejig of your habits. Now is your
life is focused with Mars on the move and Venus plus a New Moon hint at opportunity to gel with where you live
again, and friendships and dreams get unusual encounters, with passion and or who you live with. You’ll get a tighter
reset with Mercury post-retrograde. money on top of the agenda. After grip on money with your co-ruler Mars
As Venus enters your sign you’ll attract a muddled Mercury and Mars retrograde back on track, and you’ll be seen and
good things your way without effort phase, you’ll know what you want and heard now that Mercury’s also out of
but, even so, a rethink of what pleasure how to get it. As the month ends, Venus retrograde. As the month ends, Venus
means to you is due. opens up a world of adventure for you. boosts romance and artistic aims.
STYLE ICON: Emily Blunt STYLE ICON: Margot Robbie STYLE ICON: Anne Hathaway

Aries Leo Sagittarius


21 March-20 April 23 July-23 August 23 November-21 December
Friendships blossom now as Venus Love surrounds you now thanks to You’re often persuasive but, with Venus
adds harmony to collaborations. What Venus. Lovers, co-workers, even rivals in your communication zone, now you
works for the team makes you look are warmer with the New Moon offering can charm anyone into anything and
good, too, with lucky Jupiter in the mix. fresh starts all round. A Full Moon get your own way. You might make
A stalled career scenario gets back on clears your mind of past hurts and Mars a random high-ticket purchase, but also
ASTROLOGER: STELLA NOVA

track with Mercury out of retrograde. rejuvenates friendships and passion aim to invest in yourself. While fun is
After a phase with your ruler Mars in projects. Mercury out of retrograde a priority with your ruler Jupiter in the
feisty mode, expect peace, love and refuels your body and anything seems mix and passion is more focused now
understanding and a secret romance possible when Venus moves into your Mercury’s out of retrograde, it’s home
that could light up your imagination. zone of mergers and commitments. and family that rule your heart.
STYLE ICON: Jessica Chastain STYLE ICON: Jennifer Lopez STYLE ICON: Taylor Swift

Vogue January 2023 143


Final note

Revved up
You don’t have to be a petrol head to appreciate
the high-octane appeal of CHANEL’s helmet bag
plucked from its Formula 1-inspired resort ’23 collection.
For summer nights, rebel riders are advised to
sling on and ride off into the sunset.
STYLING PHOTOGRAPH
H A RRIET CR AWFORD A NNA POGOSSOVA

ALL PRICES APPROXIMATE DETAILS AT VOGUE.COM.AU/WTB


WORDS: ALICE BIRRELL

CHANEL bags, $24,490 each.

144 Vogue January 2023


2023 Season
on sale now

Join us as we celebrate 60 years with a


season of refreshed classics, 20th century
masterpieces and new Australian works.

Government Lead Principal


Partners Partner Partner

Principal Artist Robyn Hendricks


photo Simon Eeles

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