KONJAC-BASED GEL MICROBEADS ENRICHED BY

ANTIOXIDANTS FROM ORANGE PEEL EXTRACT AND GLYCOLIC

ACID FROM SUGARCANE BAGASSE EXTRACT

HYDROTEAM

ABSTRACT
Microbeads are tiny plastic particles in cosmetic products such as facial cleansers, body scrubs, bath
soaps, and toothpaste. However, microplastic is one of the most dangerous pollutants in water. This innovation
uses Konjac as a substitute for microplastics. In addition, Microbeads will be modified by adding sugarcane extract
containing glycolic acid and orange peel waste as a source of vitamin C and antioxidants for facial lightening. The
used methods are making konjac flour, orange peel, and bagasse extraction, dissolving a glucomannan-rich flour
in water, mixing the solution with ethanol, adding orange peel extract and sugar cane bagasse extract, adding an
alkali to the resulting mixture, separating glucomannan hydrogel particles from liquid, drying separated hydrogel
particles, and milling and sieving the dried gel particles. Performance studies are conducted to understand the
compatibility of konjac-based microbeads on the skin. The test and characterization conducted include
organoleptic, pH, spreadability, irritation, and homogeneity. The three main ingredients used in making
microbeads are abundant in Indonesia because they are widely cultivated. Based on the economic feasibility
calculation results, the NPV counted Rp 15.358.025 (NPV > 1), 16.5 months payback period, and an IRR of
15.48%. Therefore, the calculation results have met the parameters of economic feasibility.

Keywords: Gel, Glucomannan, Konjac, Microbeads

1. NEEDS AND SPECIFICATION

Exfoliation is a crucial part of the skincare routine because it not only rids the face and body of
dead skin but also aids other skincare imperfections and improves the effectiveness of a regular skincare
routine. These products typically contain microbeads. To make microbeads, synthetic polymers from
polyethylene are used. Microplastics in the environment have evolved into a significant global
conservation problem. One primary source of microplastic is personal care, such as skincare and
cosmetic products that contain synthetic microbeads [3]. The number of personal care users is rising
linearly to the amount of microplastic. Finding an eco-friendly material to substitute plastic-based
microbeads should be worked to save the environment.
Konjac-based gel microbeads offer a substitute for synthetic plastic microbeads that are gentle
for exfoliating and biodegradable. The product targets companies in Indonesia that produce skincare and
cosmetics to use biodegradable microbeads. Several surveys show that substitutes from regular
microbeads are needed, which can be seen in the following table:
No. Source Result

1 Survey of University Exfoliating with regular scrubs sometimes causes redness. When
Students not exfoliating properly, pores get clogged, and skin becomes oily
and red. Regular scrubs are also very rough, so over-scrubbing will
potentially damage the skin barrier.

2 Indonesia’s National The government has planned to reduce 70% of plastic waste by
Plastic Action 2025 radically. Microplastic is marked as something which has had
Partnership in World worse impacts on the environment and human health. Plastic waste
Economic Forum 2020 can be reduced by replacing it with biodegradable material in any
product, such as skin care products.
Table 1. Konjac-based gel microbeads requirements survey
 Konjac is a plant with a very high glucomannan content, as much as 45-65%, and can be
maximized to 73,70% with water solvent [2]. Konjac glucomannan is effective for treating mild to
moderate acne in patients and as an adjuvant treatment for severe acne. Glucomannans modulate skin
bacteria proliferation and normalize sensitive skin barrier functionality [1]. In addition, we modify the
products by adding an extract of sugarcane bagasse. This waste material has not been popularly used
but has a very beneficial chemical compound, glycolic acid, that is great for exfoliating. Another
additional ingredient is orange peel. This ingredient has been famous for its antioxidant benefits and is
high in vitamin C. These ingredients will boost skin repair and help brighten the skin. Besides that,
Konjac-based gel microbeads are biodegradable; they will not harm the environment.

2. PRODUCT DESCRIPTION AND INNOVATION

Microbeads are tiny plastic particles in cosmetic products such as facial cleansers, body scrubs,
bath soaps, and toothpaste. Microbeads function as a cleansing medium, removing dead skin cells, dirt,
and oil on the face [4]. In this case, konjac-based gel microbeads will be modified by adding sugarcane
extract containing glycolic acid and orange peel waste as a source of vitamin C and antioxidants for
facial lightening.
Microplastic is one of the most dangerous pollutants in water. Fish often eat microbeads because
they are mistaken for plankton. In addition, microplastic can also kill coral reefs to die of starvation
because they clog their digestive system. Once eaten by aquatic animals, microplastic can propagate up
the food chain, eventually hitting humans. Consuming plastic has consequences; therefore, an alternative
is needed to replace microbeads in every beauty product. Examples of products for facial skin that can
be inserted into microbeads are facial scrubs, facial wash, and facial masks.
Many innovations regarding biodegradable microbeads; one uses coffee as its base material.
Research claims that coffee-based microbeads could be an excellent substitute for plastic microbeads
[8]. Unfortunately, coffee’s rough structure can lead to destructive impacts: irritation, allergies, and
infection of human skin. As for konjac-based gel microbeads, it is produced to be softer than plastic
microbeads and other microbeads to lessen the effect caused by exfoliating.

3. MATERIALS AND METHODS

The needed materials to make a Konjac-
based gel microbead with the use of antioxidants
from orange peel extract and glycolic acid from
sugarcane bagasse extract are Konjac (Porang),
Orange Peel (Mandarin Orange), Sugar cane
Bagasse, Ethanol, Aluminium sulfate, Alkali
(Sodium Hydroxide), and water. The main tools
used in this research are scales, magnetic stirrer
and heater, tray dryer, thermometer, soxhlet,
Willey mill, slicer, beaker glass, sieve, ventilated
oven, Whatman filter paper, rotary evaporator,
Figure 1. Konjac-based gel microbead Block Flow Diagram
centrifuge, and blender.
The first procedure is making the konjac flour. Dried Konjac thinly sliced into chips with a
thickness of 2mm and dried into konjac chips. Konjac Chips were ground and sieved through a 40-mesh
sieve to obtain konjac flour. The following procedure is glucomannan extraction from Konjac which is
done using the centrifuge method [2]. The finished ingredient is glucomannan flour. Then, orange peel
extraction is done by drying the orange peel and grounding it into fine powder. The powdered sample
will then be extracted by the soxhlet extraction method. The bagasse extraction process includes
cleaning, grinding, blending, and sieving the sugar cane bagasse. The finished extract is a cloudy white
liquid.
After the materials are prepared, the following procedure is making the glucomannan gel
microbead. The process consists of dissolving glucomannan-rich flour in water to make a solution,
mixing the resulting solution with ethanol to precipitate glucomannan, and adding orange peel extract
and sugar cane bagasse extract, adding an alkali to the resulting mixture to transform the precipitated
glucomannan into water-insoluble, irreversible hydrogel particles, separating the glucomannan hydrogel
particles from the liquid, drying the separated hydrogel particles, and milling the dried gel particles to
the preferred particle size [10]. The dried gel particles can be directly applied to skincare products such
as facial scrubs, facial wash, and facial masks.

4. FEASIBILITY STUDY
Based on data, Indonesia is in the order of 4th as the largest konjac chip supplier country in
Asia. National konjac tuber production until 2020 is still 19,950 ha, equivalent to 366,000 tons [5]. An
analysis of the selling value of the konjac tubers shows that Indonesia's exports will significantly
increase if exported konjac chips can be reprocessed into goods with a higher selling value, such as
microbeads. Sugarcane is the most abundant agricultural residue in the world (900 million t/t). There
are 2.36 million tons of bagasse in Indonesia, most of which are disposed of in the environment or
burned [9]. Indonesia is the largest citrus-producing country in Southeast Asia. Citrus fruit production
in 2021 was recorded at 2.77 million tons and is expected to increase by 3.64% annually. This potential
supports the growth of the citrus processing industry, which is dominated by small and medium-sized
industries. The increased growth is proportional to the increase in the amount of orange peel waste.

Table 2. Roadmap of konjac area and production development in Indonesia

(Reference: DGFC, 2020)
Performance studies are conducted to understand the compatibility of using this glucomannan
gel microbeads on the skin. The test and characterization include an organoleptic, pH, spreadability,
irritation, and homogeneity test. Organoleptic testing involves inspecting flavor, odor, shape, and color.
pH test measures whether a product is acidic, neutral, or alkaline. Spreadability tests are the ease with
which a product can be spread. Irritation tests determine if a material or chemical induces skin, mucosal,
or ocular tissue irritation. The homogeneity test determines the mixture of each component in the product
is mixed.
Based on the calculation of CGM obtained, Rp 182.000 per 10 L CGM per day, Rp 5.460.000
per 150 L CGM per month, and Rp 66.612.000 per 1830 L CGM per year. Besides that, the selling price
is also obtained. Based on the calculation of the selling price obtained, Rp 50.000 selling price per 1 L,
Rp 500.000 selling price per day, Rp 15.000.000 selling price per month, and Rp 183.000.000 selling
price per year. The gross sales are Rp 116.388.000, and the net profit is Rp 106.188.000. Based on the
calculation of the payback period acquired, 16,5 months. The difference between benefits (revenues)
and costs is known as net present value (NPV) (expenditures) calculated for the project's expected
benefits [6]. Based on the calculation of NPV obtained Rp 15.358.025 with 10% disc. Internal Rate of
Return (IRR) is the bargain rate at which the investment's net current value of expenses and benefits is
equal and expressed as a percentage [7]. Based on the calculation of IRR obtained 15,48%.
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