HIGHLANDS OF CENTRAL INDIA

NOTE S ON T HE I R FOR E S T S A ND WI LD T R IB E S ,

NA T U RA L H I S T OR Y A ND S POR T S , .

BY C A PT A IN J F OR SY T H .
,

B BN G A A AA A A A A A A A A A

N E I V E D I T I ON .

W IT H MA P A ND IL L US T R A T IO NS

L ON D ON : CH A P MA N A ND H A LL ,

L I MI T E D .
 CO N T E N T S .

CHA PT ER I .

IN TR O D U CT OR Y .

P AG E

Physica l D esc i p ti the C ent al H ighlan d s —T he S a tp u a

r on of r r

R an ge — E a ly H isto y o f G on d wana—The R ajp u ts nd

r r a

thei Ba d s — Mixe d Races — I m mig ati n f H i nd u s

r r r o o

T he C on quest b y A k b e —F ate f the A b o igi n es —Over r o r

th o w f the G nd Ki ngs —A ival f the Ma a th a s —The

r o
'
o rr o r

H ill-t i b es p lu n d e the L OW C u nt y— The Pi nd a i s

r r o r r
’

B itish C o n quest o f the C u n t y — J p o d A d m i n ist a

r o r ua r ve r

ti n —R ece nt I gn an ce o f the I nte i

o f the H ills
or r or o

C n sti t uti n o f the C e nt al P vin ces — E n e gy o f the

o o r ro r

N w A d m i n ist ati n— E sta b lish m e nt o f the F o est D e

e r o r

par t m e n t —E x p l ati n f the H ill T acts

or — Thei A ea nd
o o r r r a

C ha acte —S ettle m e n t O p e ati n s — In te esti ng N atu e f

r r r o r r o

the C o u n t y— I ts A b igi nal P p ulati n— The G on d s

r or o o

K ola ia n R aces —The K ols — T he K k u s — The Byg a

r or s

T he Bh els— S in gula Facts in D ist i b ti n f O gan ic

e r r u o o r

P o d ucts —T i m b e T ees — R elati o n t o G e o l gical F o ma

r r r o r

ti n s — T he F au na —TVil d Buffal o —T welve-ti n e d D ee

o r

Ju ngle-f o w l — H og -d ee — Pa t id ges — I nt si o n o f E aste n

r r r ru r

F o m s—E a ly D est ucti n o f the F o ests — The S ai l —The

r r r o r

Teak— I ts U seful n ess— R ui n f the T eak F o ests o r

CHA PT ER II .

NA RB AD A V ALLEY
TH E .

S ta t f the M ah a d e H ills— C a mp f n Ex p l o e — T avelling

r or o o a r r r

i n Wil d R egi o n s — C a p tu e f a C a me l— Ma ch d o wn the r o r

N a b a d a Valley — G ge i n t he Rive —T he Ma b le R o cks

r
’
. or r r
vi C O NT E N T S .

PA GE

C l o nies f Bees —Fata l A ttack b y a S w a m— Thei

o o r r

Fe o city — C a p tu e o f the H o n ey— M o o n light Picn ics

r r

C o c d iles n d Fish —S ho t in g C c d ile— C l d Weathe

r o a o a ro o o r

Mar chi ng— P s p e ity o f the C o u nt y— D esc i p ti n o f

ro r r r o

H i n d u Races in the V alley —A b u n d an ce f G a m e —Wil d o

f o wl nd S n i p e —Pa t i d ge n d Q uail S h tin g—A d ven tu e

a r r a oo r

w ith a S n ake — The Black A n tel p e —Meth d s f S tal k o o o

i ng —A S lita y Buck — The I n d ia n G a z elle — Me t h d f

o r o o

S h o tin g —The N il g ai— The H u nti n g L e p a d— The W lf

o o r o

—M n - killin g Wo lves— D est ucti n f a Pai

a Ti n ke r o o r r

a n d the W lf— N V il d B a s — The Pe p le f the N a b a d a

o o r o o r

Valley — G ond L a b u e s—T he M b w a T ee— C o al Mi n es

o r r o r

-S ni p e S h ti ng —H ill F ts— Ju ngle C lea i ngs—F est

oo or r or

A n i m als

C HA PT ER II I .

TH E MAH ADE O HILLS .

T he Mah a d e M u tai s S ac e d H ills —A sce t t P h m

o o n n r n o uc u rre e

— A s p ect f the F est — Pa k -like S ce e y—A M ist N ight

o or r n r o

— S lita y S i p e — D esc i p ti
o r nf the P l ateau — Fi e V ie w s r on o n

—T he D e wa Valley —The A d eh K oh— L ege d s f the

n n n o

Place —A n cie n t R e m ai n s —The G eat R avin e —The S onb r

ha d a G o ge — T he G eat R d S qui el — A H ill C hief

r r r e rr

C a p ice o f the H il l m n T hei S yste

r - — m f —
Tillage D e e r o

st ucti n f the F o ests— I n cu si o ns f Wil d A n i m als

r o o r r o

— G on d L ege n d — D e nse J u ngles R estlessn ess f the o

A b o igines — Thei P eca i o us L ivelih o o d— P d uce o f the

r r r r ro

J ng l —The S ee d i n g o f the Ba mb — S ca city in the

u es oo r

H ills —Banj a a C a ie s —P j ect 3 F est L d ge —Fi n d

r rr r ro . or o

L i m e — The I nd ian Bis o n — H is H ab its n d R ange a

G o wth o f h i H ns — A G a n d H u n t — Kill a S tag

r s or r

S i mb — A Bull sh t b y the Th a k u — P w e
e a r f the Bis n
o r o r o o

— A H ill Tige r — A M the s D efe n ce — D esc i p ti on f o r

'

r o
 C O N T EN T S . v ii
P A GE

G ond s nd K o k u s— A Mi d n ight R evel — The Wil d Men

a r

e c n ciliate d —V
a r o teach the m t Buil d nd Pl ugh~ V
e o a o

The D e nw a S ai l F est— The T welve -ti me d D ee — Ju ngle

’

. or r

f wl — S p u -
o f w l — G a z elles n d H
r Fi -
o hu n tin g b y a a r es n
re

N ight — Bea s nd Pa n the s — A T u b les m e Pa nthe r

r a r ro o

F - oxhu nti ng at P hm e— Bis n -stalki ng — A B ace f uc u rr e o r o

Bulls—T ackin g t h Bis n— A H a d D ay s W k— D eath

r e o r
’
or

of t h Bull e

CHA PT ER IV .

T H E A BO RIGINAL TR I BE S .

I nte est o f the S u bject— A n H ist o ical Pa al lel — I n flu n ce o f

r r r e

C n tact w ith H i nd u ism —Mixe d R aces — The R aj -G ond s

o

The K k u s —The Bhilala — I nt d ucti n f C aste —D iffi

or s ro o o

l ti
cu f I n vestigati n —Meag e n ess
es o f A b igi n al L n o r o or a

gua g es — G on d L ege n d s— R eligi n f the G on d s — W shi p o o or

f P we s f N t
o o — F etishis m— W shi p f A n cest s
r o a u rc or o or

D e m ig d s n d H e es —I d l W shi p— S i v a is m— R eligi o us
o a ro o or
’

C e e m n ies — The G eat S p i it — R eligi n f t h K k i

r o r r o o e or t s

S n W shi p — Bu ial C ust o m s

u or f the T i b es — Pe s o n al
r o r r

A p p ea a nce — Ma iage C ust m s — E c n m ical P siti n f

r rr o o o o o o

the T i b es — D u n ken n ess — A g icultu al P siti n — The

r r r r o o

Ti mb e T d e —D e m alisati o n f the T i b es — R et ib uti n

r ra or o r r o

— E xcise L aw s — F est R egulati n s — I m p ve m en t i n the or o ro

C nd iti n f the A b igin es— E ffect f H igh P ices— C ul

o o o or o r

tu e f the Oil -
r see d Plan t — I nfl n f H i n d u i m— Futu e
o ue ce o s r

f the A b igi n es — Measu es R eq i e d —H i n d

o or Pilg i m s r u r oo r

t t h S h i n e o f M ah a d e — A n I n d ia n Fai — D esc i p ti o n
o e r o r r

f t h S h i n e— The R eligi n f S i v a is m— H u m a n S ac ifices

o e r o o r

O mk a Ma n d hat t a — D eath f a Victi m

r A P iestly o r

Mu d e — C h le a a m on g the P il g i m s —Pa nic nd Flight

r r o r r a

—T he S ca p eg at o
 C O N T EN T S .

C HA PT E R V .

T HE LAY OF SAIN T LING O .

PA GE

1 . The C eati rd Exile f the G o d s — 2 T he C mi g

on an o n . o n of

L i g —3 T he D elive a ce f the G o d s - i S u bd ivisi

n o . r n o n f
. on

i t T i b es d W shi p f the G o d D eities

n o r ,
an or o n

CHA PT ER VI .

T HE TE A K REGI O N .

T a p C u t y— C d iti
r o f th
n r Teak F ests —Othe
on on o e or r

Ti mb e T ees —T he T a pt Valle y — The F a ki ce se T ee

r r
'
i r n n n r

— A s p ects f the F ests i the T a p Regi —Ju gle

o or n r on n

Fi es —A n cie n t S ettle me n ts —The

r the T a pt i K O I kl lS ‘
of

Valley —D iffi cu l t y o f Ex p l ati n — “ Hid S p o ts —The or o r

S a mb a D ee —I ts H ab its n d F d — D eath f the B i

r r a oo o or

S tag — H ns o f the S a mb a —C u i us Occu e n ces i n

or r r o rr

S h ti ng — I n ci d e n ts i n Tige S h ti n g— S talki ng the

oo r oo

S a mb a — The H atti H ills — The Bh l -A Bh l F t

r ee s ee or

M h o m d n A chitectu e —D ifficul t y o f fi nd i ng S a mb a
a e a r r r

D ha t a — D isa p p ea a n ce f the S mb — R et n t o the

’

o e r o zr ar ur

Plai ns — The Valley f the Vultu es — R etu n t o the o r r

S a mb a G o u nd — S h t a S tag— Miss a n the — The F o u

r r oo o r r

n d A n tel p e — Bis n S h ti n g— The S h i m p a nd “

l
ro r e o o oo r

the S ku n k — F i n d a H e d —K ill a Bull— A D ange o us r r

P o siti n — A S o lita y Bull — “T m iss the VVa t — A n o the

o r e er r

Bull Kille d —A H e d f S a mb a — A cc u nt o f a Bag

r o r o .

CHA PT ER V II .

TH E T IGER .

Tige —sh o o ti ng in the H t Weathe —D iffe en t S o ts o f Tige s

r o r r r r

—The G a me - kille —The C attle-eate — The M n -eate

r r a r

II nt au f the T i ge — D t
s o ti n o f Tige s — N ative
r es ru c vc es s r
“

S hik a is —Beati ng f Tige s —S h o o ti ng o n F o o t—S h o o t

r or r
 C O N T EN T S . ix
PA G E

i ng w E le p hant —D iffi u l t y o f Fin d in g T ige s

ith an c r

Meth d f H u n ting —S ea ch for I n fo mati n—Vice egal

o o r r o r

Tige - sh o o ti ng— A Tige in a T o b acc o -

r fi c l d — T he H o t r

Weathe C amp —The Village S hik a i —S p yi ng o u t the

r r

L an d — N o ctu n al L ife o f Wil d A n im als —Ty a nn y o f the

r r

Tige — Tige T acks— The M nkeys I n f o m— D eath f a

r r r o r o

Tige —P a nks o f J uven ile Tige s— The M nkeys P

r r r o re

i t — A l mo st t
va r c a e C l se — S ingu l a E ffect f a S hell
oo o r o

A n A b u p t I nt o d ucti n — A Ma n-
r eati ng Tig ess — T he
r o r

M o nkeys a R ight— A la m C ies o f A n im als —A Beef

re r r

eate S lain -T ifi H eat —S i z e o f T ige s —Baits fo

r er r c r r

T ige s — C aste O bjecti n s —T ige S hik a is —T he Lana

r o r r
“ ”

—H e is Kille d b y a Tige —Reven ge —What a S hika i r r

sh o ul d no t b — T he T ige in his L ai —T ai ne d E le p hants

e r r r

—P u chasi ng E le p han ts —T hei P o i nts —S electi o n o f a

r r

H u nting E le p han t — A M n -kille — E n te i ng E le p han ts a r r

E le p han ti n e Vices— Kee p in g E le p han ts — A Bag f T ige s o r

— R avages o f a M n- eatin g T ige r— Un fo tun ate D elay

a r

D en i z en s f a Man go G ve — S ha p T eat men t e ffects a

o ro r r

C u e — S ta t afte the M n -
r r eate — D ese te d Villages—A
r a r r

Pilgr i m D ev o u e d—U nsuccessful H un t — A Bait P o p o se d

r r

-A n the Victi m— O n the T ail — A L o ng D ay s W o k

o r r
’
r

R e n e w the C hase — E xcitin g S p o t— A n E le p han t Kille d r

b y a T iger—Fi n d the M n-eate —H e cha ges H om e a r r

Bl wn u p b y a S hell —E le p han t A n ec d o te—D est uctive

o r

n ess f T ige s — P p o sals fo r thei r E xte mi n ati n—What

o r ro r o

ca n b e D o n e — G et Ju ngle Feve — R etu n t o P ch mu r ee r r u r

-A C o o l C li mate —C m p leti o n o f Bis on L d ge — o Bur st o

o f the M o n s o on —A d va n tages o f P u c h m u e e— S electe d a s rr

a S an itar iu m —R etu n t o J u bbu lp i r i r

CHA P T E R V III .

TH E HIGHER NA RBAD A .

J u bbu l pi ir e d —E ffects o f the R ai l way al o ng the Na r

T a sf
r n orm

b d é—A S tati o n S hik a i —T he Pa n the a nd the L e 0 p a d

a r r r

—D ang er s o f P an the r H un tin g—A Ma n- eating Panth er

 C O N T EN T S .

PAGE

C u i o us L ege nd — C unni n g f Pa nthe s — A D ete mi n e d

r o r r

C ha ge — Ba i ts f the Pa nthe —A H o t -
r “feathe E cu si n
or r r x r o

— D a n ce o f the Peac cks —D ee S h ti ng f m a D ug o r oo ro

“

ou t — T he S p o tte d D ee —A n I nte vie w w ith a T ige r r r

T he M nkeys L ea p —I m me nse H e d o f D ee — A Fa mo us
o
’
r r

T ige — A S uccessful Beat— A Mi dnight I n t u d e —T he

r r r

M n-
a eate o f P h i—G h o stly L ege n d —C u sin g the S a m
r ou r o r

b — N ative D gs —T he N
ar Vild D g —Ba nj a a D o gs — T he
o o r

Black Bear— A Fa m ily C ha ge — Bea S h o o ti ng—L a ge r r r

Pyth o n

CHA P TER IX .

T H E S AL FO RES T .

H ea d S t ea ms o f the N a b ad a— T he Ma nd l a Plateau —A P ai ie
r r r r

C o u n t y— C ha acte f the U p lan d s — S ce n e y —C li m ate

r r r o r

S canty P p lati n — G ond s —Bygé —Thei Reti e d H a b its

o u o s r r

—P is o n e d A o ws — C u age f the B a — Pat ia chal

o rr o
yg o r s r r

I nstituti o n s— A S i ngula R ace —The Byg a Me d ici ne M n r a

—T ige C ha mi ng —A Pleasa nt C st m — B a S ee s
r r u o r
yg
R eligi us S en ti me nts — D est ucti o n o f S 5 1 T ees — The
o r 1 r

H mma R esi n— T ffi f t he By g a —C ha acte f the

er ra c o s r r o

S a l F o ests — F es t P o d ucts —L ac D ye
r or T e S i lk
r u ss r

A G a z i ng C unt y—Value o f C attle — P s p ects o f the

r o r ro

C o u n t y— I ts R es o u ces — C auses o f Back w a d ness— W an t

r r r
‘

i ng P o p ulati n — D istan ce o f Ma kets —Mala ia — A d v n

o r r a

tages o f the T act fo S ettle s —E u p ean C o l nisati o n

r r r ro o

F iel d f o E n te p ise —A Missi n a y A tte m p t L a nd

r r r o r

J bbi ng — P s p ects f Missi o n s — VV ld A n i mals — The R e d

o ro o i

D ee —I ts H a bits —Va iety f G am e — A C h ist mas Pa ty

r r o r r

—Beati n g w ith E le p han ts —A Tige S h o t Fl y i ng — T he r

I l a lo n Valley —A Me n d ica n t kille d b y a T ige —S talki n g r

the R e d D ee — Kill a S tag—A R n at a H in d —A W ld

r u l

E le p ha nt — S ingula F eak —R ange f Wil d E le p ha nts

r r o

T ige s R o a i ng at N igh t — A R e ma ka b le S e e na d e— L a g e
r r r r r

H e d s o f R ed D e —T h I Vild Buffal
,

'

r c r c o
 C O N T EN T S . xi

CHA PT ER X .

AN EX P L OR A T I O N IN T HE FAR EAS T .

d i g P m t y —T he S ce f the N a b a da
PA G E

A C o mma n n ro on or o ur o r

S
’
t
i Vi L ege d s —F i e Vie w—A L g E x p l ati —T he
’
e n n on or on

W il d B tf l — I ts R a ge u d H a b its — C i m i al T es p ass
a o n an r n r

—The P lice calle d i — W s lay the I va d e —T ugh ess

o h e n r o n

of the B ffal — S i z e f his H u s —A V yage d w t h

o o o rn o o n e

Mah a a d i— The C u t y f the Kh o d s— M e Buffal es

n o n r o n or o

A F eve ish R egi — Buffal r H u ti g H se b ack —A

on o n n on or

Vici us C w—U p set b y a Bull

o o T i ke t the R escue n r o

—A C u i us S e ti el —T ee d b y Buffal es — T he E e my
r o n n r o n

reti es— D a ge f Buffal S h t i g— A C u mb us T p hy

r n r o o oo n ro ro

—Ma ch f the E le p ha t C u t y — A D ecaye d C ity — A

r or n o n r h

U f tu ate S ei z u e —R et i e t L fa g h — A H s p itab le
n or n r r o aa ar o

C hief—T he Byga agai —A P i mitive Pi p e— A A m a z i g s n r h n

S p ectacle — T he E le p ha t G d — L ife at L fa g h —The n o aa ar

D ct d i m fi t d — Ju gle D elicacies — T he T ha k
o or s co e n
’
ii r s
’

Y a s —A T ige sh t w ith
rn A w— A E le p ha t d e
r o an rr o n n on

t D eat h— A
o L athly W m — Wil d A i m als “
o the or n on

H ill — A n I ks m e P is n Make an the S ta t — A

r o r o o r r

S p len d i d G a m e C u nt y — A H e d f E le p han ts — A S o li
o r r o

ta y T uske — A l m st n A d ven tu e —A V i llai n us T

r r o a r o er

m i n ati o n E x p l o e the C u nt y — Bh u mi a T acke s r o r r r

Fate f a H e d f E le p ha nts — A Vast S a l F est —T he

o r o or

Way l st— Beat t a Bh u mi a -H ab its f the Bhum a

o ou o i s

A s p ect f the C u n t y— A P i m itive Measu e f D istan ce

o o r r r o

— H au n ts f the Buffal es — C a p tu e f W i l d E le p ha nts

o o r o

C al Measu es —P o s p ects f the C o u nt y —T he Plateau

o r r o r

o f A m a ka n tak — A Te r i b le Ma ch —E n d f the E x p l o a rr r o r

t i o n—E ffects f E x p o su e—T he F est Questi n— U tility

o r or o

o f F o ests — P s p ects i the F ests — C e n t al I n d ia as a

r ro o or r

F iel d f S p o t —Whe e t o g — O t fi t — G u ns n d R ifl
or r r o u a es

C n clus i n
o o
 HIGHLANDS OF CENTRAL INDIA .

CHAPTE R I .

T
I N R O D U CT O R Y .

P E OP L E commo nly talk o f the hills a n d t he plai ns

“

of I n dia mean i ng by th e fo r mer the g r eat H imal aya n

,

r a n ge
,
a n d b y the latte r all the rest o f the cou n try .

The mightiest mou n tai n s of the earth are called n o thi ng

“
mo r e than hills a n d popular geog r aphy has n o n ame

for the n ume r ou s excresce n ces o f mo ther earth w hich

i nte r sect the s o -called region o f plai ns “
.
”
A r a n ge
called th e Nilg he r r ie s i n the s outh of t he p e n i nsula
, ,

a p proachi n g feet in altitude is k n o wn to a fe w

,

b eyo n d th e limits o f I n dia as a resort o f i n valids a n d a ,

n urse r y for ci n cho n as ; but o f lesser ra n ges tha n this ,

w hich w ould still b e called mou n tai ns i n a ny other

”
cou ntry the mass o f
,
o r di n a r y r eaders ha s n o
cog ni z an ce .

M uch of this has really b ee n o wi ng to th e u ne x

l d n d u n descri b ed co n diti o n o f s u c h regio n s ; b ut
p o r e a

somethi n g also t o the ove r w helmi n g promi ne nce o f the

great n o r the r n ra n ge w hich rivets the atte n tio n o f
,

teachers of geography a nd thei r pupils a n d also fr o m , ,

the exige n cies o f the art o f chartography re n de r s it ,

2 T H E HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

almost impossible to d eli neate o n or d inary maps o f I ndia

the featu r es o f i nferior ra nges .

Y et i n th e very ce n tre o f I n dia there exists a

co nsiderable regio n to w hich th e term H ighlan d s w hich ,

I have ado p ted for a title is strictly applicable an d in ,

w hich are n u merous peaks a n d ra n ges for w hich the ,

”
term mou ntai n w oul d in any other cou nt r y b e u se d , ,
.

S everal of the great rivers o f I ndia have their first ,

sources in this elevated regio n a nd pour their waters ,

i n to th e sea o n either side o f the pe i sula to the

n n —
no r th the S On commi ngli ng w ith th e G a nges to the ,

east the Ma li a na di flo wi ng i n dep e nde n tly t o the Bay

’

o f Be n gal to the south some o f the p ri n cipal feeders o f

,

the G od a vari a n d to the w est the N ar bad a and th e

’

T a pt i taki ng parallel cou r ses to the A rabian G ulf If

’

, .

the reader w il l seek the h ead - w aters o f th ese rivers

o n the map h e w ill fi n d the region I am about to
,

desc r i b e To b e m o r e p recise i t lies o n the 2 2 nd

.
,

parallel of n orth latitude and bet w ee n the 7 6 t h and ,

8 2 nd o f east l o n gitude I t forms the central a n d

.

culmi nati ng sectio n o f a ri dge o f elevated cou n try w hich

stretches across th e p eni nsula from n ear C alcutta to ,

n ear Bombay a n d separates N orther n I n dia o r H i n dostan

, ,

proper from the D ecca n o r country o f the south The

, , .

t r aveller by the G reat I n dian P e n i nsular R ail w ay from

Bom b ay to C alcutta after some 2 7 5 miles of his j ourn ey

, .

w il l come to a poi n t w here the li ne bra n ches i nto t w o .

The northe r n bra n ch leads him o n up the N arbad a

valle y a nd so by A lahab a d a n d the G a ngetic valley to
, , ,

the C ity of Pal aces I f he takes th e southern bran ch .

i n stead h e w ill be la nded at N a gp u r a city i n the very

, ,

heart o f I ndia a n d its prese n t termi nal statio n Bet wee n

, .

these t w o bra nches lies a triangle o f cou ntry in w hich is

 IN T R O DUC T OR Y .

situated the w este r n half o f the highlands I speak o f .

From its w estern extr emity in the fork o f thes e li nes

, ,

the mou n tai n ous regio n exte nds east w ards for a dis t a n ce
o f a b out 4 5 0 miles w it h an ave r age w idt h of about 8 0
,

miles .

The ge n eral level o f w hat may b e called the plai ns

o f C e n tral I n dia has here by grad u al a n d t o the t r avelle r
, ,

scarcely pe r ceptible steps reached a n altitude of a b out

,

feet above the le v el o f the sea ; a nd h e w il l r ise

bu t little higher tha n this at a ny poi n t o n the li n es o f
r ail w ay. S o soo n ho w ever as h e leaves the rail w ay
, , ,

a nd p r oceeds a fe w miles to w ards the i n te r io r o f the

tria ngle he w ill begi n t o come o n ra nges of hills at first

, ,

ge n erally l o w b ut in places att a i n i n g at o nce a height

,

o f about feet fro m the plai n ; a nd beyo n d them

peaks a n d plat eaux w ill prese n t themselves evide ntly of
mu ch superior eleva t io n V all eys w ill eve r y where be
.

found pe n etrati ng the hills by follo wi ng w hich h e may

,

rise gradu ally t o these higher regio ns a n d so o n he w ill

exchan ge the rich cultivation o f the flat la n d through
w hich the r ail w ay passes for u n rec l aimed w aste a n d
rugged forest -cove r ed stee p s .

H e w ill n o w fi n d himself i n a region w he re all is

chaos to th e u n guided traveller w here hill afte r hill o f
the same w ild a n d u n defi n ed character are piled t o
gether ; w here the streams appear to r u n i n all di r ections
a t o n ce ; a n d it w ill n o t be u n til he has traversed the

whole regio n ,
or cl o s ely studie d a map that some ,

method w ill be g i n to ev o lve itself a n d th e geogr a phy

,

become plai n H e w il l fi nd tha t at a height of a bout

.

feet abo v e the plai n t hat is of about

,
a b ove
the sea the hills have a te n de n cy to spread o u t i n t he
,

form of plateaux some comprisi ng the t o p of o nly o ne

B 2
 4 T HE HIGHLA NDS OF C EN T RAL INDIA .

hill a n d a small area oth ers l ike a group of man y hills ,

w hich support like butt r esses o n their summits large

, , ,

level or u n dulati n g plai n s F r o m these agai n h e w ill

.

fi n d shooti n g up still high er a good ma n y other solitary ,

flat -topped hills reachi n g the height of n ear ly

,

feet ; some o f w hich in like man ne r u nite i n to plateaux

a t abou t the sam e el evatio n Y et highe r tha n thes e .
,

bu t neve r assu mi n g th e cha r acter O f a plateau he w ill ,

see h ere a n d th ere a peak risi ng to n early feet

a bove t he sea .

A s is usual th e i nhabitan ts of th e hills themselves

,

have n o ge n eral n ame for the w hole chai n ; each i n

dividual hill o r mi n o r ra n ge bei n g called b y a local
n am e de r i v ed from the n earest v illage or th e species ,

of t r ee it bears o r a god o r a rive r or som e othe r

, , ,

acci d e ntal circumsta n ce The H i n d u s of the plai ns hav e

.

several terms for its differe n t sectio n s calli n g the m ost ,

easte r ly the My ka l the ce nt r e the Ma h a deo a n d t he

.
, ,

w ester n the S a t pi i r a H ills G eographers have a p plied

’

the n am e S a t pi i r a t o th e e n tire ra nge a n d th e n am e is

’

perhaps as a ppropriate as a n y w hich could b e s electe d .

The w atershed o f these mou ntai ns varies i n di r ectio n

i n thei r several sectio n s I n the ext r eme east th e ra n ge
.

termi n ates i n a b luff p r omontory w ith a p r ecipitous face

to the south thro w i ng th e w hole o f th e dra i n age o f a
,

v ast a r ea t o w a r ds the n orth This is th e cradle o f th e

.

N arb a d a rive r w hich soo n leaves its pa r e nt hills a n d

, ,

flo w s thro u gh a w ide valley o f its o w n alo n g th e

n orther n face o f the ra nge I n th e ce ntre the ra n ge
.

c ulmi nates i n the bold group o f the Ma ha d e o s c r o wned ,

b y the P u c hm u rr e e peaks thro w i ng t he d r ai na ge almos t

,

equa lly to the n orth a n d south th e former i nto t he ,

N arba da and the latter i nto the G od a vari The w ester n

'

, .
(3 T HE HIGHLAND S OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

history— th e Ma ha bha r a t a n d R a m a y a n epics — speak o f

all I n dia south o f th e Jam n a as a vast w il d er n ess in
h abited by hostile demo n s a n d s nakes .R eligiou s
hermits o f th e n orthern race are d escribed a s d w elli ng
in l eafy bo w ers in their mi d st w hil e heroes an d d emi
,

go d s w an d ered about lik e k nights - erra n t p r otecti n g th e

,

d evotees from their h ostil e acts w hich seem more like

,

th e pran ks o f fr isky m o nkeys t ha n t he a ctio n s o f h u ma n

b ei ngs Th e s n akes a nd demo n s have been co nj ectured
.
,

w ith s ome probability to h av e b ee n the black aborigi n es

,

of th e cou n try a n d the sce n es o f t he epics t o portray

,

th e gradual adva n ce o f th e A rya n rac e a n d religio n int o

their m idst Th e w a n deri n g R aya s are frequ e ntly de
.

scribed as all y i n g them selves i n m arriage w ith the

daughters of th e pote n t d emo n s a n d s o far th e poem s
,

agree w ith w hat is ot her w ise sho w n to b e probab le .

N othi ng like a co nn ecte d historical n a r r a tive is ho w ,

e ver to be extracted from th e mass o f B r ahminical

,

fiction a nd w hatever v al u e su ch m aterials m ay y iel d t o

the investigation o f th e history o f th e A ryan o r c o n
qu eri ng races th ey are w orth nothi n g as beari ng o n
,

that o f the w ild men o f th e w ilder ness w ho are through

,

out regar d ed as bei n g as mu ch beyo n d the pal e o f

huma nity as their cou ntry w a s beyo n d t he A ryan pale
the la n d o f clearings a nd the black an t elope .

We have a few architectural remai n s a n d inscri p tion s

that tell o f A ryan chiefs holdi ng p o w er in p arts o f t he
N arba d a v a lley a nd th e ce n tral p lateau x bet ween th e
,

fi fth a n d th e fourteenth ce n tu ries B ut who an d w hat

.

they w ere a n d w h at w a s really th eir p ositio n th ere i s

, ,

nothi ng to sho w R emai ns o f rel igio u s edifices sur

.

ro u n ded by fortificatio n s poi n t to th e probability o f th ei r

h aving been t he h eads o f iso l ated ba nds o f the warlike
 IN T R O D UCT OR Y .

caste p rotec t i ng settlements of missio nary priests and

,
'
,

er ha ps b superior cour a ge a nd arms holdi ng i n

p , y ,

n omi n al su bj ectio n the aborigi nal tribes aroun d them .

Tra d itions exist o f a pastor a l race to w hom is attributed

,

every a n cient buildi n g tha t ca nn o t be other wise a o

cou nted for I t is highly probable that the c o w w a s
.

unkno w n t o the aborigi nes b efore it w a s brought by

their A rya n i nvaders Tra d ition w ould probably fix
.

on so striki ng a feature as th e possession o f herds by

those early colo nists ; a nd thus it does n o t seem necessary
to su pp ose the existe n ce o f a ny p eculiar p astoral people ,

distinct from other A rya n settlers in these centra l

regions .

But w hat these early immigrants may really h a ve

been is u nimporta n t F or w hen first the light o f true
.
,

history breaks u p o n the cou ntry at the period o f its ,

contact w ith th e i n vad ing Ma ho m e d a n i n the fou r tee nth

century all o f them had ceased to have a ny se p arate
,

existence Most probably they had been absorbed i n

.

the great mass Of the aborigi n al tribes w ho s urrou n ded

them a n d w e fi nd the cou n t r y then called by the name
o f G o nd wa n a fro m the tribe o f G o nds w ho chiefly
,

inh abited it Th e petty tribal chieftai nships into w hich

.
,

there is reason t o believe it had formerly been divided

, ,

had then bee n united into three co nsiderable princi

a l it i e s u n der the s w ay o f chiefs w hom all the evidence
p ,

w e have proves t o have been Of mixe d aboriginal a n d

H i nd u (Raj pi i t ) descent A rchitectural remains an d the
’

.
,

recorde d co n dition o f the cou ntry at the t i me mentioned ,

sho w that these littl e ki ngdoms had acquire d a c o n

s id e r a bl e degree o f stability a n d develo p me n t and it has
ofte n been w o nd ered ho w a tribe o f s uch r u de savages as
the G o nds could have reached a st a ge o f civilisation at
 T HE HIGHLANDS OF C E N T RAL INDIA .

th at e arly p eriod so greatly above a nythi n g they hav e

si n ce sho wn themselves capable o f Th e explan atio n
.

seems t o lie i n the circumsta nce me n tio n ed The real .

establishers o f these courts a nd introdu cers o f the arts

, ,

were not G o n ds but H i n d u s .

I t is the custo m in all families w hich trace their

li n eage t o th e fou n tai n-head of H i n d u a r istocracy amo n g
th e R aj p u t clan s of Raj asth a n t o retai n like the C eltic
,

Chieftai n s o f o u r o w n cou n t r y family ba r d s w hose duty

, ,

it is to record i n a ge n ealogical volum e a n d recite o n ,

great occasio n s the desce nt a n d family history o f their

,

patro n s Th e b ardic office is h ereditary a nd w here th e

.
,

li n eage of th e family is really a n cien t the bard is ,

ge n erally also a desce n da nt o f the bards of the origi n al

cla n O ften h e is the chief bard o f the cla n itself and
.
,

r esides w ith its h e r editary h ead at the family seat i n

Raj asth a n visiti ng at i ntervals the c a det b r a n ches o f

,

the house to record their d omestic eve n ts I n G o n d .

“

w a n a n u merous chiefs clai m either a pure desce n t fr om

,

Raj p u t houses o r more frequ e n tly admit their remote

, , ,

origin to have spru ng from a u n io n b et wee n some Raj p u t

adve nturer o f n obl e bloo d an d o n e o f th e daughte r s o f
the aborigines Fe w o f the m a r e admitted t o be p ure
.

Raj p u ts by the blu e -blooded chiefs o f Raj asth a n but all

have their bards and ge n ealogies These like such
.
,

documents i n all cou n tries ofte n go back to fabulous

,

times a n d are overlaid w ith modern fictio n ; but the

,

lege n d ary portion Of the bardic chro n icl e c a n ge n erally

be s eparate d w ith littl e di fficulty from a soli d resi d u e Of
p roba b l e fact .

The ge n eral conclusio n t o be draw n fr om the evidence

o f these w rit ings su pported as they are by tradition and
,

later histo r y is that d u r i ng th e four t e e n th a n d fifteenth

,
 IN T R O DUC TO RY .

ce n turies ,
it m ay be even earlier a g r eat immi
a n d ,

r a t i o n o f the Raj p u t cl a n s took place into the cou n t r y

g
of the aborigi nes The Ma ho m ed a n invaders of U pp er
.

I ndia w ere the n pressi n g hard o n the cou n t r y b et w ee n

the Ga nges a n d the N arba d a rive r s occupied by the
Raj p u ts ; a nd it w a s doubtless the recoil fr om them that
fo r ce d th ese colo n ies o f Raj pu ts south w ards i nto th e
w ilds o f C e n t r al I n dia H ere it w o uld seem that t he y
.

ge n erally formed m atrimo n ial allia n ces w it h the i h

dige n ous t r ibes The supe r io r qu alities of the A r ya n
.

race w ould soo n asser t the mselves amo ng such inert

r aces as thes e ab o r igi n es a n d th e r e is littl e do u bt that

b efore the ar r ival o f the Ma h o m e d a n s n o t o nly t he ,

heads o f w hat have bee n termed the GOn d ki ngdoms ,

b ut also ma ny o f th e su b o r di n ate chiefs w ere far mo r e ,

H i n d u than ab o r igi n al i n bl o od The u nfaili ng evide nce

.

o f physical appeara n ce suppo r ts th es e i ndic a tio ns of

traditio n Most Of the chie fs possess the tall w ell -pro
.
,

ortio n ed figu r e a n d light com lexio n of th e H i n d u but

p p ,

allied w ith more o r less o f the thick ness of lip a nd a n imal

type o f cou nte n a nce o f the pu re abo r igi n e The mass o f .

the tribes o n th e other ha n d are marked by the black

, ,

ski n short squat figure a n d features o f the n eg r etto race

, ,

o f huma nity Bet w ee n the m are fou n d ce r tai n sectio ns

.

o f the tribes w ho w o u ,
ld seem to have bee n a lso i mb ued
with somethi ng o f the fo r eig n blood thoug h i n a less ,

degr ee than th e chiefs L ike the latter they affect much

.

H ind u ma n n ers a nd customs ; a n d it is probabl e that

they t oo are the result o f s ome co n nectio n in lo n g p ast
, ,

times bet wee n immigra n t A r ya n s a n d the i ndige n ous

tribes .

The H ind u procli vities o f th e chiefs appear to have

e arly le d them t o e n courage th e settleme n t i n thei r
10 T HE HIGHLANDS OF C E NT RAL I NDIA .

do mai ns of colo nies o f th e industrious agricultural races

w ho had al r eady recl a imed the soil of N o r ther n a n d
Wester n I n dia B ut no very exte nsive arriva l o f these
.

races w oul d seem to have occurr ed previous to the estab

l is hm e nt early in the seve n teenth ce ntu ry o f a stro ng
, ,

Ma ho m e d a n gover n ment u nder the great A kber in the

, ,

surrou ndi ng countries Th e impe t us give n to the de

.

v el o m e nt a n d civilisatio n o f the dark regio n s of I n dia

p
by the w ise rul e of that greates t of easter n a d mi nis
t r a t o r s c a n never be ove r -
rated Before th e absorption
.

into his em p ire of the mi n or H i nd u a nd Ma ho me da n

states thei r history is o n e o f co n ti nu ou s law lessness an d
,

strife ; a n d th e further w e investigate the more cer ,

t a i nly w e p erceive that political order the su p remacy of ,

l a w sou n d p ri nciples o f taxatio n a w ise la n d system

, , ,

a n d almost every art of civilised gover n me n t o w e their ,

birth to this e n lightened ruler H is treatme nt o f these

.

u n settle d w ilds a nd their p eopl e wa s m arked w ith the

same p olitical wisdom While in the surrounding
.
,

cou ntries w hich had already bee n i n a m easure r e

,

claimed by H i n d u races he e very where broke u p t he

,

feudal system u nder w hich stro ng gove r n me nt and

,

p erma nent improveme nt w ere im p ossible he aske d no ,

more from the chiefs of thes e w aste regions tha n

n ominal submissio n to his empire an d th e preservatio n ,

o f the peace o f th e realm Those o n his bor d ers h e con

.

verte d i nto a fro ntier p olice a nd the rest he left t o

,

a d mi nister th e ir country i n their o wn fashion Ao .

kn o wl e d g m e n t of his supremacy he i n siste d o n ho w ,

ever a nd i n case of refusal s e nt his ge n erals a n d

, , ,

armies who very soon co nvi nce d t he bar b arous chiefs o f

,

their po werless ness i n his hands Th e i nfluence o f his .

p o w er a n d sple n dour rapidly exte nd ed itself over even

 IN T R OD U CT O R Y . l1

this remote regio n Th e c hiefs became co u rtiers a c

.
,

ce t e d w ith pride impe r ial favours a n d titles a n d in

p , ,

some cases w ere even converte d to th e fas hionable fait h

,

of I slam .

A vast development o f the resources of thes e ce n tral

regio ns follo we d the co m i ng of A kbe r A great high .

w a y betw een U pper I ndi a a n d the D eccan w a s estab

l is he d t hrough a gap i n t he S a tp u ra mou ntai n s A .

vast city aros e in the Ta p t i valley w hich became the ,

seat o f governme n t o f the sou thern province o f the

em p ire A rmies m archi ng t o a n d fro a nd th e reti n ues
. .

of a great cou rt bro u ght w ith them a deman d before

, ,

unhe a rd o f fo r th e n ecessaries a nd th e luxuries o f life

, .

The o p en cou n try u n der the rule o f A kber w a s rapidly

, ,

reclaime d by H i n d u im m igra n ts a rrivi n g simu ltan eously

,

from the nort h a n d fr om th e w est No r w ere they long

.

in exte n di n g i nto th e fat lands o f the great valleys in

the territories o f the G o n d p r i n ces The reclamatio n of
.

th e h eavy lands o f the N ar b a d a vall ey a nd the cou n try ,

n o w k n o w n as th e Ber a rs had probably b een e n tirely

,

beyond th e resources o f the aborigi n al races The im .

migra n ts bro u ght w ith the m t he necessary energy a n d

the n ecessary resources ; a n d from this time a process
commenced w hich resulted in th e w holesal e deprivatio n
o f th e i ndige n ou s races o f their birthright in th e richest

portions o f th e ir cou n try and th e establishme nt therei n

,

o f th e arts o f agricu l ture a n d commerce .

The G o nds retired t o th e higher plateau x a nd slo p es

o f th e ce n tr a l hills w here their h u nti n g insti n cts a n d
, ,

ru de syste m o f raisi n g t he c oars e grains o n w hich they

subsist c oul d still fi n d scope
,
th e m ore exte n sive
p lateaux w ere al so soo n i n vaded by t he aggressive race ,

and their level black soils covere d with crops o f wheat

12 T HE HIGHLANDS OF C E N T RAL INDIA .

and cotto n These elevated plai n s are surrou n de d by

.

b elts o f rugge d u n culturable cou n try w hich remai n ed

, ,

i n th e possessi o n o f th e aborigi n es a n d th us ere lo n g , ,

the tri b es w e r e n o t only su r rounded b ut i nte r p enetrat ed

by large bodies o f H i n d u s .

The Brah m a n priest accom p an ied the w arlik e Raj p u t

and t he i n dustrious H i nd u p easan t to their n e w cou n try
a n d b r o u ght w ith hi m th e w orship of t he H i n d u gods

a n d th e i n stitution o f caste N o separatio n from the

.

h oly myste r ies o f his faith w a s d ema nded fr om th e

immig r an t N ot o nly w a s h e pe rs u ade d that h e w a s
.

s till u n der th e p r otectio n of th e o ld gods b ut th e gods

t hemselves a n d all thei r belo ngi ngs w e r e b odily b or n e
, ,

i nto exile al o n g w it h thei r votar ies Ne w scriptures

.

w ere revealed i n w hich the r eligiou s myths of the race

,

w ere t r a n spla n te d w holesale a n d fi tted t o local n ames

,

a n d places . The N a r bad a became m o r e holy a s a river

tha n the G a n ges The mou n tai n of Kailas the fabled
.
,

heave n o f S i v a b eyo n d the s n o w s o f the H imal aya ,

j utted to heav e n i n the peaks o f the Ma h a deo r a n ge .

Krish n a a n d Ra m a passe d their m i r aculous b oy hood

.
,

a nd achieved th eir lege n d ary feats in these central

,

forests i n stead of i n the g r oves of Math u r a a nd the

,

w ilder n ess o f Bi n dr a b an S om e remarks w ill b e o ffered

.

i n a n other place o n the social a n d religi o us i nflue n ce o f

this co ntact w ith H ind u ism o f th e aborigi n al races who
r eti r ed b efore th e i n vaders A fe w r emai ned in the
.

cou n t r y occupied b y the H i nd u s chie fly in the positio n

,

o f ag r icultur a l serfs o f w atchers of th e villages agai n st

,

the i nroads o f thei r w ilder brethre n or of w ild beasts o f ,

he w ers o f w ood preve nte d o nly by the rules of caste

,

from b ei ng also thei r d r a w e r s of w ater A social statu s

.

w a s assig n ed them belo w that o f all but the outcasts o f

14 T HE HIGHLA DS OF CEN T RAL INDIA
N
.

on the last of their accessibl e resou rces The n th ey .

took to th e hills w ith their tribes a nd tur n ed their ,

ha n ds agai n st the spoile r till th e n ame of GOnd a nd

,

Bb c c l b ecame sy n onymous w ith that of hill - robber .

Whole tracts came to b e disti n guish ed by the title o f

”
t he cou ntry o f robbers There is n o t a dist r ict in all
.

that lo ng fr o ntier bet w ee n hill a n d plai n w he r e tales are

no t still related o f the su dde n d o wn s w o o p Of b a n ds o f

hill -m e n o n the gar n ered ha r vest O f the plai n s o f blood ,

she d torture a n d bla z i n g villa g es a n d o f t h e sharp a n d

, , ,

s avage retaliatio n o f M ar a t h a m e r ce n ar ies A little .

tributary of th e Ta pt i river that com es d o wn fr o m th e

”
hills of Ga v ilg a r h is still called the stream of blood “
,

fro m the massacre i n its valley of a w hole t r ibe o f

N ahals m a n w oma n a n d child by a b ody of A rabs in
, , , ,

the service of S i n di a ; a nd m a ny similar t ales have b ee n

related t o me w he n t r avelli n g i n the hills The n if not .
,

before every pass i n the hills w a s cro w n ed by a fortified

,

post o f th e mou nt a i n m en a nd every i n habite d village

,

o f th e plai n s by a w all o f earth w ork a n d a ce ntral keep .

The n t o o a r ose the orga n ised ba nds o f mou nted

, ,

plu n derers who have been call ed Pi n d a ri s — I shmaelite s

’

o f these ce ntral regio n s w ho like th e vulture sallied

, , ,

forth fr o m their fast n esses i n some seclu ded w ild to

gorge o n the prey struck do w n by a n obler ha n d .

The n ceforth for nearly t we nty years the hill -tribes

, , ,

Pi n d a ri plu n dere r s an d la wless M a r a t h a s oldiery w ith

, ,

thei r dagge r s at each other s throats w ere u nan imou s’

o n ly i n robbi n g the husba n dmen of the p lai ns w ho ,

ploughed thei r fields b y night w ith s words a n d m atch

l ocks tied t o th e shafts of their ploughs o r purchased ,

peace by heavy payme n ts o f blackmail V as t areas o f .

t he cou ntry that had bee n reclaimed by their i n dustry

 IN T R O DUC TO RY . 15

w ere agai n abandoned t o the j u ngle a n d th e w ild beast

a nd o n ly rou n d the w alls o f fortified vill a ges w ithi n ,

which the people a n d their herds could retreat in time

o f n eed w a s a ny tillage mai n tai n ed at all
, .

I n the year 1 8 1 8 this u nheard - o f ana r chy w a s ter

mina t e d by o u r fi n al s uccess against the Mar a th a s a n d ,

the exte r mi n ation o f the Pi nd a ri b an ds But w e

’

e ntered o n th e p ossession o f o u r n e w te r ritories to fi n d

them almost desolated by a quarter o f a c e ntury of the
utter abse n ce o f governme n t w ith the hill populatio n
,

frenzied by the exciteme n t o f a life of plu n der and ,

bran ded w ith t he character o f savage and intractable

f oresters . The S ug a r a n d N arbad a territories as th e
”
,

n orthe r n half o f the country w a s the n called w ere a c ,

quired b y us in full sovereig nty after this w a r Th e .

souther n p o r tio n remai n ed nomi nally the territory o f

the feudatory Raj a o f N a gp u r b u t had lo n g bee n u n de r
,

B r itish admi nistratio n w h e n in 1 8 5 4 it too w a s a nnexed

, ,

o n failu r e of hei r s The Ga v ilg a r h hills i n the extrem e

.
,

south - w est formed part o f the N i z am s te r ritory o f

,
’

Ber a r ; b ut that als o has fo r ma ny years bee n un d e r

British ma nageme n t .

With the establishment o f a stro ng govern me nt th e

hill - m e n soo n proved ho w g reatly they w ere malig n ed
”
w hen desc r i b ed as savage and i ntractabl e S ince .

they fi r st came under o u r rule there has not been a n

outbreak amo ng th e m o f th e l east importan ce ; a nd o n ,

the cont r ary they have lo ng si nce gai ne d the cha r acter
,

of bei n g a remar kably submissive a nd l a w - a b idi ng

people Th e chiefs w ere early secured i n their feu
.

d a t o r y positio n w ith th e full p r o p rietorship o f such

,

territories both in the hills a nd in the plai n s as they

, ,

c oul d establis h a title to and for many years they w ere

16 T IIE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

l eft al most to t hemselves in th e man agement of their

intern al affai r s O ur early a d mi n ist r ato r s w ere too fully
.

occupied w ith th e w ork Of restori ng prosperity in the

ope n cou n t r y to have m u ch time to spa r e for the G o nd
a n d his w ilder n esses a n d thu s w e fi n d that the i n terior

of t heir cou ntry remai ned a n al most u n explored mystery

u p to a ve r y rece n t period .

T w o a n d a hal f ce n turies ago the grea t A kber k n e w

n othi n g o f the G o n ds but as a people w ho tam e lio n s
so as to make the m do a nything they ple a se a n d ab out ,

w hom ma n y w o n derful stories are told ; a n d w ithi n

the last t w e n ty yea r s eve n they hav e b ee n described a s

goi ng n aked or clothed i n leaves livi ng i n trees a nd
, , ,

p ractisi ng ca n n ibalism S o lately as 1 8 5 3. w he n th e ,

grea t t r igo n ometrical survey o f I ndia had bee n at w ork

fo r h alf a ce n tu r y a n d the more detailed su r veys for
,

some thirty y ea r s S ir E rski n e Perry addressi ng the

, ,

Bomb ay b r a n ch o f th e R oyal A siatic S ociety w rote ,

°

A t prese n t t he G o n d w a n a highla n ds a n d j u n gles com

p r ise su ch a large t r act of u n explore d cou n try that they
form quite an oasis i n o u r maps C aptai n B lu n t s .
’

i nteresti n g j our n ey i n 1 7 9 5 from Benares to Raj a man dri , ,

gives u s almost all the i nfo r matio n w e possess of many

”
parts o f the i nterior I Till w ithi n a fe w years
.
’

“ ”
u n explored w a s w r itte n across vast tracts in o u r
best maps ; and though lyi ng at our very doors u n
, ,

explored in reality they w ere Wi t h fe w exceptions .

,

th e civil officers of those days n eve r d r eamt o f p ene

t ra t i ng the hilly portio n s of their cha r ges ; a n d the

w rite r is acquai nted w ith o n e district co ntai ni n g s ome

G la d w i s A y A kb
n
’ “
l ii p 5 9
e en er c c ,
”
vo . . . .

J
r
“
I t d ucti t the C e t al P vi ces G z ettee
n ro on o n r ro n a r, b y C ha l es
r

Gr a nt ,
E sq , C S .
 IN T R OD UCT O R Y . 17

square m iles o f forest cou n try a n d i nhabite d by

,

bet w ee n a nd aborigi nes i n w hich o ne,

offi cer held cha r ge for eleve n yea r s w itho u t o nce havi ng
put foot w ithi n this enormou s territory A ll accou n ts .

o f such tracts w ere filtered through H i n d u o r Maho

medan subordinates w hos e ho r r or O f a j u ngle a nd its

, ,

unkno w n terr o r s o f bad air a nd w ate r w ild b easts and

, ,

ge n eral d isc o mfor t is such as to e nsu re their pai nti n g

,

th e country a nd its peopl e in t he blackest of colours .

But a n e w era da wn ed o n t hese da r k regio n s w hen ,

the co n scie n ce o f the British rulers o f I n dia wa s

aw akened t o the w ants o f their great cha r ge after a ,

r ebellio n w hic h n early ousted t he m fr o m their seat .

A lo ng w i t h man y more i mporta nt provi n ces this ,

secluded region felt th e e ne fi t o f th e impuls e then

give n to th e admi nistratio n o f the empire That great .

civiliser o f n atio n s — the iro n roa d— wa s t o b e driven

through the h ear t o f its valleys ; a n d M an chester had
prophetically fixed a n eye o n its b l ack soil plai n s as a
fu ture field for cotto n S omethi ng stro nger than the
.

divide d a nd limited age n cy o f the several local officers

w ho had bee n sitti n g still over its affai r s w a s w a n ted for
the guida n ce o f a cou n try a n d a people w ho possessed
all the eleme nts o f a rapid prog r ess A ccordi ngly in.
,

1 8 6 1 w ere co nstit u ted w hat have si n ce bee n k n o wn as

,

the C e ntral Provi n ces u n der t he chief commissio n ership

,

o f Mr n o w S ir R ichard ) Temple o f the Be ngal C i vil

(
.
,

S ervice .

The n w ere seen stra nge sights in that u nk no wn

land ; w he n dista n t valleys a n d mou ntai n gorges that ,
’
had hear d no other sou n d than the w oodman s axe ,

echoed to the horse - h oofs o f the tireless C hief and his ,

small kn ot o f ofte n w eary follo w ers w h en the solitary

18 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDI A .

Gé n d or Byg a cleari ng his patch of millet o n th e r e

,

mote hill -side w a s asto nished by the ap paritio n on som e

, ,

comma ndi ng hill - top o f that veritable G over nment ,

“ ”

(S i r kar
) i n the flesh w hich to him a n d his for several ,

ge n e r atio ns ha d bee n a n ab stracti o n represe n ted if by , ,

-
cha n ce h e ever visited the district h ead qu arters by a ,

S aheb in his shirt -

”
sl eeves sit ti n g i n a di n gy office ,

s moki ng a cheroot I
A C hief w ho thu s by d i nt o f hard r idi n g i n sisted o n , ,

s eei n g th e requireme n ts o f th e cou n t r y fo r himself w a s ,

n o t l o n g i n pe r ceivi n g t hat th e highla nd ce n tre o f th e

pr o vi n ce w ith its exte nsive forests a n d mi n eral w ealth

, ,

its limitl ess tracts o f u n reclaimed w aste a nd scanty , ,

half-w ild p opulatio n a n d its g r eat capabilities for t he,

st o rage o f preciou s w ater w a s w orthy o f a pri ncipal ,

share o f atte ntio n I t had already bee n w hispered by a

. ,

fe w that its forests calcul ated o n by the p r oj ecto r s o f

,

the rail w ay li nes the n bei ng co n s t ru cted through the

,

provi nce for their supply of ti mber w e r e likely to prov e

, ,

a b r oke n reed h avi n g b een already exhausted by a lo ng

,

cou r se of misma nageme nt ; a nd o n e o f the first steps

taken w a s th e organisatio n of a Fo r est D epartme nt for ,

th e detailed exami n atio n a nd co nservatio n O f the timb er

*
bear i ng tracts A n o ffi c er w ho had already i n terested
.
‘

himself i n th e qu estio n a n d h ad travelled extensively in ,

t hese r egions a n d w ho w a s admirably fitte d for th e task

,

b y physical qu al i t ies and the possessio n of that faculty ,

of obse r vatio n w hich is n o t t o b e attai n ed by the lab ours

of the study w a s selected as superi n te n de nt o f the n e w
,

departme n t D uri ng the fi v e su ccee d i ng years s everal

.

Officers qu o r u m u nu s f ui w ere u nremitti ngly employed

, ,

C a p tai n G F Pea s n f the Ma d as A my n w C nse r vat o in

. . r o , o r r ,
o o r

the N VV P o vi n ces
. . r .
 IN T R O D U CTO R Y 19

in the ex pl oratio n o f the square miles w hich

may be take n to be th e a r ea of th e ce nt r al hills beside s ,

doi ng much to exami n e an almost equally exte n sive

trac of t l o w -lyi n g forest in t he s o uth o f th e provi n ce .

I n later years th e regular civil o ffi cers Of the district ,

those employed i n the lan d reve n u e sett l eme nt sur ,

v ey o rs , missio n a r ies a n d man y others have t r averse d

, ,

ma n y p a r ts of these m ou n tai n s ; and a gr ea t mass of

i n fo r matio n respecti ng their physical characte r a n d in
habita nts has bee n accu mulate d w hich although of very
, ,

unequal value is yet a mi ne o f useful o r e fr o m w hich

,

much good metal may be extracted .Mu ch o f this has

i lr e a d bee n pri n ted i n the fo r m of O fli c ia l R eports a nd
y
the cream o f it has bee n a b stracted i n to a G a z ettee r
o f the C e n tral P r ovi n ces ,
the I n t r oductio n to w hich ,

fr om th e p e n of Mr G r a n t late S ecretar y t o the C hief

.
,

C ommissio n er is a r es u me o f the hist o ry o f the provi nce

, ,

admi r able fo r its co n cise n ess a nd research G ood map s .

o f al l b ut the r emotest tracts hav e also n o w b ee n mad e

a va i lable ; a nd statistical i nform a t io n o f all so r ts is

a n n u ally p r epa r ed w ith much care a n d made public b y

th e G overn m e n t .

My desig n the n in th us ve n turi ng before the public

, , ,

is n o t that o f attempti ng t o rival thes e most complete

o fficial docu me n ts in accuracy o r exte n t o f i nfo r matio n ,

b u t rather to prese n t in a more popular a nd accessible

,

form the lighter a nd more picturesque aspects of a

,

cou n try in w hich a n i n c r easi ngly large sectio n o f o u r

cou ntrymen take an i nterest Though most of w hat I
.

shall have to say is fou n ded on o r co r robo r ated by my

,

o w n observatio n duri ng ma n y years o f acquai nta n ce w ith

the region described I shall no t refuse to avail myself o f

,

w ell - authe nticated m aterial collecte d by others

20 T HE HIGHLAND S OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

The highlan d region is com p rehen d e d w ithin eleven

o f th e n i n etee n districts i nt o w hi ch the provi n ce ha s

b ee n subdivided for admi nistrati ve purposes A portio n .

o f most o f these districts lies also i n the adj ace n t plai n s ,

either to the n orth o r south o f th e hills a j udicious ,

arrangement w hich combi nes in o n e j urisdictio n the hill

,

and the plai n people w ho have deali n g s togethe r The .

total area o f these districts is in r ou n d n u mbers , ,

square miles of w hich about ,

are u n der culti
vatio n a n d the remai n der w aste Where s u ch exte n sive
,
.

mou ntai n s are i n cluded it will n o t b e su rprisi n g t o find

,

that of this large u n reclaimed area a b out square ,

miles a r e estimate d to be w holly i ncapable o f tillage th e ,

remai n i ng b ei ng proba b ly m ore o r less fit for im

provement These fig u res a r e O b tai n ed by the retur n s o f
.

the departm e n t employe d i n w ha t is called the sett l e

” If
me n t of the lan d revenu e .

F e w readers w ill require to b e told that i n I n dia the

great mass o f the la n d has al ways paid a tax t o th e
G over nmen t (w hich is really o f th e nature o f a rent
charge w hich had n ever b een alienated by th e origi nal
proprietor o f all la n d — the S tate ) a n d in these provi n ces
most o f th e hill -chiefs eve n w ere found o n th e cou n try ,

comi ng i nto our han ds to b e liable to the la nd tax , ,

w hich in their case ho w ever w a s usually a very light

, ,

o ne . D uri ng the times o f anarchy w hich prece d ed o u r

rule the p r oper amou nt o f this tax had become very
,

u n ce r tai n the assess ment in fact havi ng very m uch

, , ,

r esolved itself i nto a struggl e bet w ee n th e rulers a n d t he

r ule d that th ey should take w ho h ave the po wer a nd

, ,
”
t hey should keep w ho can I t wa s also by n o means .

The w ite se ve d f th ee yea s as settlem e nt ffi ce o f n e f

r r r or r r o r o o

these d ist icts n d n v uch f the gen e al accu acy o f the statistics
r ,
a ca o or r r .
22 T HE HIGHLAND S OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

of all these matters i n e very district of the p r ovi n ce and

after t en yea r s o f har d w ork th ey have n o w bee n set at
,

rest F e w perso n s c a n co n ceive the amou n t o f perso n al

.

labou r in th e field a nd i n th e o fli c e i n vol v ed in th e

, ,

settlement of o n e o f thes e districts E very village and .

hamlet has t o b e visite d and every acre o f lan d app r aised

a n d assessed the title o f every claima nt to a ny i nteres t
i n th e la n d has to be i n vestigated fr o m the b egi nn i ng o f
time ; a n d finally a m inute a n d accurate record of the
w hole process has to b e dra w n u p to fo r m the s u b ,

s t a n t iv e l a w for the d isposal o f future cas e s i n t he civil

a n d r eve n ue courts of the district The gra n d result

.
,

as affecti ng rights a n d i n terests i n the la nd wa s that , ,

w here a n y title w hich coul d b e co n verted i n to a right o f

p roperty w a s established the fr eeh ol d beari ng liability
, ,

to th e fixe d G overn me nt re n t - charge w a s besto w ed o n,

th e claima n t ; w hile all la n d to w hich n o such private

title could b e established w a s decl ared to be the nu
hampered property Of the S tate Most o f th e hill - . chiefs
w ere admitted to the full o wn ership of the w hole of
t heir e n ormous w astes though ce r tai n restrictio n s as to
,

the destruction Of th e forests have h ere (as i n all civilised

count r ies ) bee n impose d o n these pro p rieto r s .

F e w parts o f I n d ia p resent so great a ra n ge o f

i nteresti ng n atural o bj ects for i n vestigatio n as this .

S ituated in the very ce n tre o f th e pe ni nsula the ,

eth nical z oological b otan ical a nd e ve n geological

, , ,

features of n o r th a n d south a n d o f east a n d w est

, ,

h ere me et an d contrast th emselv e s A s has been .

n oticed a b ove -
t w o distinct st r eams o f th e s o called
,

I nd ia n A rya n s approachi ng from N o r ther n and Weste r n

,

I n dia here meet a n d i n termi ngle differi ng co n siderably

, ,

i n appearance in characte r a nd in speech

, ,
Where th e .
 IN T R O DUC TOR Y .
23

land has bee n suitable for their agricultural processes ,

the origi nal d welle r s of the la n d have b ee n driven ou t

to th e ce nt r al hills ; a n d there w e fi n d them i n several
t ribes w hich yie l d to th e i n vestigator poi n ts of con
,

ne c t i o n w ith s everal bra n ches o f th e huma n race .

The total p opulation of th e tracts I have i n cluded

in this sketch is about fou r a n d o n e - third millio n s o f ,

w hom about three a n d o n e- third millio ns a r e A r ya ns ,

an d o n e millio n o nly b elong to a b o r igi n al races .

Th e great maj ority O f these are the G o n ds w ho have ,

given their n ame t o the cou nt r y a nd who are dis t r i ,

b uted i n greater or less de n sity over the w hole Of the

hilly p ortio n o f th e tract Th e i n fallible test o f language .

sho ws that the G o n ds belo ng to the sam e family o f

mankind as the Tamil - s p eaki n g D ravidia ns of S outhern
I dia
n
*
. r -
I n the extreme n o th east o f the tract are
fou nd the t r ibe k n o w n in th e Be ngal hill - tracts as KOls ,

a race closely allied to th e S a nt a ls a nd other tribes o f

the n orth - east ; a n d i n the ve r y ce n tre of these high
la nds O n the high plateaux of P u ehm u r r e e and G a vil
,

garh surrou n ded a n d isolated b y th e G o nds are found

, ,

a n othe r race called K u rs o r Kork u s w hose la nguage

, ,

a nd gene r al type are almost ide ntical w i t h these KOls

a nd S a n t a ls th o u gh th ey th emselves are utterly u na w are

,
'

o f the co nn ectio n A l l these Kolaria n tribes difl er

.

r adically i n la n guage from the D ravidia n G o nd s ; and

some co nn ection has bee n trace d bet w ee n them a nd th e

aborigi n al r aces of cou n tries lyi ng to the east o f I ndia .

Further to the east agai n in the My ka l ra nge and like , ,

A su pp se d c nnecti n b et w ee n the G i nd s n d the B a h u is a

o o o r a r ,

M h m d n t i b e n the S i n d h f n tie b ase d n the c es p nd e n ce

a o e a r o ro r, o o rr o

of a f w w d s i n thei la ng ages d es n t a pp ea t b ea the test f

e or r u ,
o o r o r o

a cl se exa mi nati n
o r o .
24 T HE HIGHLAND S OF CEN TR AL INDIA .

the Korkus im b edde d among the G o nd s is foun d a ,

small body o f By g a s w ho have n o t yet been t r aced

,

ei t her to th e Kolaria n o r the D r avidia n stock They .

prese nt fr om many circumstan ces to be a fter wards

,

n oticed the most curious ethnical p roblem o f all

,
L ess .

raised above the condition o f the m e r e hu n ti ng savage

tha n a ny a nd cli ngi ng to the most s eclude d solitu d es
, ,

t hey hav e yet e n tirely lost all trace of their o wn l a n

gu a ge and speak i n stea d a ru de dialect o f the to n gue o f
,

the A r y a n immig r a nts They prese n t som e poi nts o f

.

affinity to th e Bhe el s o f Wester n I ndia o f w ho m also , ,

in the extre m e w est som e ,

are recko n ed in this
cauldron o f peoples . The number o f the a b origines is
completed by about souls formi ng the fa g -e n ds
,

o f tr i b es w ho have lost all sembla n ce o f disti n ct cohe

sio n w ithout lan guage o r territory o f their o w n

, .

Which o f these e ntirely disti n ct families are th e

autochtho n es of the la n d o r w hich o f the m first settl e d
,

here m a y possibly n ever b e kno w n

, N o n e o f th em
.

hav e a ny reliable traditio n o f t heir arrival ; a n d n o

.

evide n ce beari ng o n t he subj ect b e y o n d w hat ha s been

,

alrea d y m e n tio n ed has been discovered

,
I t is n o t .

w ithi n the scop e o f my prese n t p urpose to attempt a n y .

elaborate i n vestigatio n i nto the eth n ical history o r p e c u

li a r it ie s o f these trib es Th e evide n ce yet recorded is
.

t o o sca nty to y ield v al u abl e results a n d such has bee n

the admixture o f their customs religio n a n d la ngu a ge

, ,

w ith those o f th e H i ndu s that it is improbable n o w

,

th a t mu ch o f their origi n al disti n ctive peculiarity r e

m ai ns to b e discovere d Y et there is much that is
.

curious a nd i nte r es t i n g i n thei r prese n t co nditio n ,

gradually bei ng absorbed a s t hey are in the vas t m ix

t ure o f races composi n g moder n H i nd u ism a n d a grav e
 IN T R O DUC T O RY . 25

problem remai n s unsolved i n the questio n of our duty

to w ar d s these races as a G over n me n t NVha t I have to .

say on th ese p oi nts w ill fi n d a place further o n .

Th e regio n is also rema r ka bl e as fo r mi ng the meet

i ng - grou n d o f som e forms of vegetabl e a nd animal life ,

w hich s eem t o be characteristic o f N o r th - eastern a n d

S outh -w estern I ndi a Th e pri n cipal forest -tree of u p per
I ndia is the S a l (S ho r ea r o bu s t er) a tree w hose habit it
,

is to o ccupy w he r e it gro w s at all the w hole area

, , ,

alm o st t o the exclusio n o f others I t thus forms vast .

forests in the lo w er H imalaya and covers also th e ,

greater p ortio n o f the hilly regio n to th e south o f the

G angetic v alley F r o m the latter tract it stretch es
.

alo n g the table - la n d o f the subdivisio n o f Be ngal called

C hota N ag pu r a nd the n ce exte n ds i nto the C e nt r al
,

Provinces in t wo great bra n ches s eparated by th e ope n

,

cle a red plai n o f Cha t t i s g a r h The so u thern bra n ch

.

reaches as far as the G od a va ri river a nd the no r ther n ,

em b races the easter n half o f t he highla n ds I have

d escri b ed bot h b r a n ch e s ceasi ng almos t exactly at the
,

ei g htieth parallel of east l o ngitude To the w est o f this .

the char acteristic a nd most valuable forest -tree is the

Teak (Tec t o n a g r a ndis) which is n o t fou n d at all in
,

N o r ther n I n dia o r Be nga l and but sca ntily in the

, ,
°

C e n t r al Provi n ces to t he east o f 8 0 lo ngitu d e The .

Teak - tree is ho w ever n o t so exclusive i n its habit o f

, ,

gro w th as the S a l appear i ng rather i n the fo r m o f scat

,

t er e d clumps amo n g othe r forms than as the s ole oce n

pant o f large areas .

S om e expla n atio n o f this peculiar dispositio n o f

these t wo tim b er t r ees may perh a ps be fou n d in thei r
hab i ts o f gr o w th a n d relatio n t o v a r ious soils The S a l .

is a tree p ossessed o f a remarkable po wer of propagati n g

26 T HE HIGHL A NDS OF C E N TR AL INDIA .

itself sheddi ng an e n ormous n u mber of seeds at a

, ,

seaso n (the comm e n ceme n t o f th e rai ns ) w he n th e usual

j u n gl e fires have ceased a n d w hich sp r out al m ost imme
,

d ia t ely o n t heir reachi n g the ground On the other .

ha n d th e Teak seeds after the r a i n y seaso n a n d the

, ,

see d s the m selves a r e cove r e d by a hard shell w hich ,

must b e decomp osed by l o n g ex p osure to m oistu r e a n d

h eat before they w ill germinate This necessitates th eir
.

exposure t hroughout o ne ho t seaso n w h en th e w hole o f

,

th e grass coveri n g the grou n d belo w is b urnt in the

annu a l c o nfla g ra t io n s Thu s a large p erce n tage o f the
.

seeds of th e Teak never germi nate at all I t is cl ear .

,

then that if these t w o species w e r e gro w i ng together

, ,

o n s oil equally suitable for b oth th e S a l must possess

,
”
a n imme n se adva n t a ge i n the struggle fo r life over
th e Teak A n d if t o this n atural adva n tage b e adde d
.

an adve n titious o n e i n the fact th at the Teak is mu ch

,

more ge n e r ally useful t o m a n— particularly to m a n in a

pri m itive state — as is really the case the r e seems to be,

a s u ffi cie nt reaso n why th e Teak should disa p pear before

its rival in tracts w here the latter has obtai n ed a footing
a n d is equ ally suitabl e to th e soil a n d climate No w a n .

exami n at i on o f the tracts o n w hich these trees are found

in C e n tral I n dia sh o w s that w hile the Teak d oes n o t
,

a p pear to shu n a ny particular geological fo r matio n it ,

t hrives best o n th e trap soi l s w hich predomi nate in the

south a n d w est o f th e province B ut th e S a l o n the
.
,

other han d clea r ly shu n s t he trap formatio n altogether

, .

N ot o nly is it u nk n o w n w it hin th e great trappean area

to the w est of th e eightieth d egree o f lo ngitude but ,

e ve n to the east o f th at li ne i n its o wn peculiar region

, ,

i t d oes n o t gro w W here isolated areas o f the trap rocks

are fou nd Fu r t her I bel ieve that in n o par t of I nd ia
.
,
 I N T R O DUC TO RY . 27

w here this tree gro w s is there a n y o f the trap fo rmatio n .

With th e excepti o n o nly Of this volca n ic r o ck t he S a l ,

appears to th r ive o n a ny other formatio n b ei ng equ ally ,

abu nd a n t w ithi n its o w n a r ea w here primitive rocks o r

, ,

sa ndsto n es o r late r itic b eds predomi n ate

,
Thu s I .

believe that th e S a l w h ere th e soil is suitable —

,
~ that is
,

w here there are n o trap rocks — has exterminated th e

Teak of which i t is a n atural rival I n other parts o f
, .

I n d ia wh ere th e Teak does not meet with this rival as

, ,

in Malabar a nd Burma it flou r ishes o n the soils from

,

w hich it is here exclude d by the S a l The ge n eral c o n .

elusio n appears irresistible but sha r p contrasts perhaps

,

b est illustrate such peculiarities Ma ny such might b e .

me ntio n e d but t wo in particular are very n oticeable

,
.

Withi n the S a l r egio n i n th e hills imm ediately to th e

,

east o f the to w n o f M andl a there is a considerabl e ar ea

,

covered by Teak to the total exclusio n o f the S a l The

,
.

w hole of this regio n is composed o f a trap overfl o w a n d

all arou n d it a s soo n as the g r anitic a n d late r itic forma
,

tions recommence t he S a l agai n e n tire l y abolishes th e

,

Te a k A gai n w ithi n the area o f the trap a n d Teak in

.
, ,

the valley o f the D e nw a rive r 1 5 0 miles w est o f the

furthest limit o f th e ge neral S al region is fou n d a soli ,

tary isolate d patch o f the latter occu pyi ng but a few ,

squ are m iles H ere th e S a l gro ws o n a san dsto n e

.

formatio n . I t is su rrounded o n three sides by tra p

rocks a nd there it e n ti r ely ceases a nd is suppla n te d by
, ,

the Teak a s the p ri n cipal t imber tree But ho w t o

accou n t for this s m all a n d u nimporta n t o u tlier o f the
great S a l belt To mai n tai n o u r th eory some li nk t o ,

co nnect them together should be fou nd I thi n k that a .

hypothesis much less extrav a gan t than man y w hich are

,

i ntroduce d into such argume n ts w ill do s o To w ards , .

28 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T R AL INDIA .

the fourth side of th e S a l p atch i n the D én wa valley

lies th e great op e n plai n of the N arbad a i nto w hich the ,

sa ndsto n e formatio n exte n ds and passes o n alo n g w ith

,

primitive rocks a nd w ith littl e i nterruptio n fro m the

,

trap r ight up to the mai n b o d y of t he S a l forest at th e

,

head Of the N arb ad a valley The S a l i t i s true ceases

.
, ,

in the ope n N arbad a valley but so does all forest the

, ,

cou ntry havi ng bee n completely cleared and cultivated

fo r ma n y ge n eratio n s I t is not th e n a v ery violent
.

assu m ptio n to suppose t hat th e S a l forest at o n e tim e

exte n ded do w n the N arbad a v alley as far as the D én wa ,

a n d that w he n the cou n try w a s cleared this l ittle patch

, ,

alo n e w a s left secu r ely n estl ed u nd er th e cliffs of th e .

M ah a deo ra nge in th e se cluded valley o f the D en w a

, ,

i n to w hich there w a s n o road u n til w ithi n the last fe w

ye ars .

These are strange facts Bu t it w ould be still more

.

strange if a correspondi ng d istributio n o f a nimal life

could also be demo n strated S omethi ng o f the ki n d .

is really almost possibl e E qu ally w i t h the S a l tree

.
,

s everal promi n ent members o f the C e n tral I n dia n fau n a

b elo n g peculiarly to th e n o r th -easter n pa r ts of I n dia .

These a r e the w i l d b uffalo (Bu boclu s A r ms) the t welve ,

t i ned s w amp dee r (R a c e rmu s D u o em c e llii ) a n d the

“ /

red j u ngle -fo wl (Ga llu s fe r r ug in eu s ) A ll these are .

ple ntifu l withi n the area o f t he gr eat S a l belt but ,

do n o t occur to the w est o f i t ex c ep ti ng i n t he S oil ,

a tc h o
f h D m
’

p t e e ocZ v a ll e
y w here the
,
t w o latter though ,

t he b u fla lo agai n recur I n the D énw a valley

"

no t ,
.

t here is bu t a solitary herd o f the s w amp deer I ,

believ e ; the red j u ngle -fo wl are not so n umerous as

’

the rival sp ecies G S o rm em t iz w hich replaces i t i n

, .
,

the w est a nd south o f I ndia ; a nd it is n o t surprisi ng

 30 T HE HIGHLA NDS OF CEN T RAL I NDIA .

east . lio n wa s killed in the S a gar district i n 1 8 5 1

A ,

a n d a n oth er a fe w ea rs a o n ly a fe w m iles from

y g o

th e J u bb u l pur a nd A lahab a d r a il w ay The hog -deer

.

( A x is
p o r e mu s
/

) I have n eve r met w ith i n th e w est

o f th e p r ovi n ce n o r is it very n um e r ou s eve n in th e
,

e ast though very commo n in the S a l tracts o f N o r ther n

,

I n dia The black part r idge (F r cmc o l inu s o u lg a r is ) o f

.

N orthern I n dia d oes n o t exte n d i n to these p r ovinces

at all it s place bei ng take n b y the painted partridge
,

( p
F . i c t u s
) a ,
very closely allied species . The great
imperial pigeo n of S outhe r n I n dia does n o t I thi n k cross
, ,

t he N arbad a to the n orth tho u gh n o t u n commo n i n

,

the higher forests t o the s outh of that r iver S cie n tific .

research among th e mi n or forms o f a n imal a nd vegetable

life (fo r w hich I have had neither th e time nor t he
k n o w ledge ) may possibly elicit man y co nfir matio n s o f
the l a w o f distributio n I have thus roughly stated from
observatio n s that have prese nted themselves t o m e as
a forester a n d a sp o rtsman .

I n eed here o nly indicate a n other matter in connec

tio n w ith this subj ect I t has already bee n stated that
.

a tribe called Kork u s clos ely connected w ith w hat is

,

calle d the Kolaria n stock w hich is represe n ted by

,

th e K e ls a nd S a n t a ls o f Be ngal is fou n d embedded

,

among th e GOnd s o f these ce n tral hills . No w the

comme n ceme n t o f the ra nge o f this tribe precisely
agrees w ith th e isolate d patch o f the S a l forest i n
the D én w a valley ; and th eir nearest relatives o f th e
sam e stock are t he KOl s o f the cou ntry t o the n orth
of Ma ndl a w h e r e the S a l forest again comme nces Thus
,
.

w e have a n outlier o f t he huma n tribes o f E aster n

I n dia existi ng alo ng w ith an outlier of its vegetable
an d a nimal forms a n d the country bet w ee n the w hol e
,
 IN T R O DUC TO RY . 31

three a nd t hei r n ea r est co nge n e r s occupied by other

forms I t is a m ost si ngular coi ncide n ce ; a n d such
.

mu st be my excuse for devoti ng so much o f my space

to what must be to ma n y a n u ni n t eres t i ng discussio n .

I have said that at th e time the C e ntr al P r ovi nces

w ere co nstituted little w a s accurately k n o w n regard
,

i ng the forest resources o f t hei r vast w aste regions .

I t had i ndeed b ee n suspecte d that the proj ect o rs o f

, ,

the rail way s had over - calculated the possible supply ;

but it w a s little guessed that the exhaustio n had go n e
s o far as r eally p r oved to be the case I n a nother .

place w ill be fou n d a n accou n t o f the system o f cultiva

tion of the hill - tribes who had fo r ce n tu r ies devastated
,

the fo r ests b y the cutti n g a n d b urni ng of th eir b est

,

timber to fo r m ashes to m a n u r e their w retched fields

o f half— w ild g r ai n This w a s itself almost sufficie n t
.

t o h ave p r oved the rui n o f the forests but other ,

causes had n o t bee n abse n t The most valuable timbers

.

for the rail w ay a n d oth e r usefu l purp o ses a r e the Teak

a n d th e S a l ; i n deed n o others have bee n fou n d to b e
,

really lasti n g whe n subj ected to th e great and sudden

va r iati o n s o f a n I n dian climate Th e Teak tree is .

perhaps t he most generally useful in the w hole w orld .

I n combi n ed stre ngth light n ess elasticity and e n dura n ce

, , ,

the r e is n o n e t o compare w ith it A t th e prese n t d ay

.

it s uses cover a w ider ra nge than those o f a ny other

timber fr o m the ha ndle o f a n axe in its n ative forests
,

to the backi ng of a n iro n clad in the n avy o f E ngla n d .

But it is u n fortu n ate also that it is the easiest o f all

ti mbers t o fell a n d makes be t ter fi r e wood a nd charcoal
,

than a ny other I t is little w o n der the n that o n it

.
, ,

almost excl u sively w here fo u n d h ad falle n the w eight

, ,
’
o f the people s re quirements ever since the country
,
32 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T R A L INDIA .

wa s first populated by civilised tribes I have alrea dy .

said that it is a most di fficult tree to reproduce t he ,

seeds bei ng exposed t o th e extremities of d anger before

they have th e opportu nity to germi n at e The seedli n gs .

also w ith their great d r ied leaves like so m any sheets

,

o f ti n der are more expose d to i nj ury by fi r e tha n those

,

of a n
y ot h er tree Th u s the Teak . had every w here
been mercilessly c u t do w n a n d had t o struggle w ith ,

t he most adverse circumsta n ces t o main tai n a footing

at all O ver great tracts w here it p robably o nce gre w
.
, ,

it has bee n utterly exterminate d givi ng p lace t o a ,

“
shoddy aristocracy of such w orthless species as the
Bos we lli a w hich n o o ne w oul d dream o f cutti n g a n d
, ,

on w hich n ature has besto w ed all the i n destructibl e

vitality of a w eed The Teak has bu t o ne rare and
.

valu able property by m ean s o f which it ha s alo n e

,

co nti n ued to survive at all i n many places H o w ever .

mu ch it m ay be cut a nd hacked if the root only be ,

left it will co n ti n ue to thro w u p a secon d gro w th o f

,

s h e e t s w hich gro w i n the course o f a fe w years to the

,

size o f large poles This is th e sort o f timber w hich

.

w a s chiefly i n de mand for th e small n ative houses before

th e introductio n o f o u r great p ublic w orks ; a n d thus ,

perhaps may b e explai n ed the apathy w ith w hich th e

,

n ative G overnm ents w it n esse d the d estru ction o f the

forests Of large timber A furth er reference t o thi s

.

matter will be found further o n .

The S a l - tree agai n as I have explaine d p ossesses a

, , ,

mu ch stro nger vitality as a species than the Teak ;

t hough from its liability t o heartshake dry -r o t a n d , ,

bori n g by i nsects as w ell as its w a nt Of all po w er (like

,

most resi nous trees ) of thro wi n g o u t coppice w ood t he ,

i ndividual trees are mu ch more perishable than t he

 I NT R O D UCT O R Y . 33

Teak I t is also not so ge nerally usefu l particula r ly

.
,

for mi n or pu r poses bei n g hard to fell o f coarse g r ai n

, , ,

an d maki ng very i nfe r io r charcoal I t ho w ever yields .

, ,

-
a gum r esi n valuable i n comme r ce a nd this ha s led to a ,

very great destructio n o f the S a l forests A gai n the .

,

S a l t r acts w e r e v e r y i n accessi b l e fr o m the populou s

regio ns the n e a rest poi nt w h ere a ny great supply coul d
,

b e had fo r the rail way b ei n g about a hu nd r e d miles by ,

a bad la n d route This dista n ce has u p t o the prese n t

.

time proved a n i nsurmou ntabl e Obstacle to the ge n e r al

utilisatio n of th e S a l timber o n the rail way w orks The .

supp ly o f this tim b e r is almost i n exhaustible ; an d a

stro nge r commentary o n the commercial valu e o f easy
commu n icatio n s could n o t be fou n d tha n this that the ,

rail w ays have fo u n d it che a per t o import pi n e sleepers

fr om N o r w a y a n d iro n w ood fr om A ustralia than t o
, ,

carry the S a l timber gro w i n g w ithi n a hu n dred miles

of thei r The r e is somethi ng w ro ng w he r e this i s
the case ; and that somethi n g is the w a nt o f a good
r oad i n to the S a l regio ns fr om the r ail w ay at J u b bu l ur
p ,

w hich road shoul d have b een m ade for ma ny other ,

reaso n s besi d es this lo ng ago ,

.

S O mu ch for th e S a l fo r ests A s r egards the Teak

.
,

th e supply available fo r rail w ay u ses had a l r eady bee n

mu ch redu ced fr om th e causes me ntio n ed A good d eal .

w a s ho w ever still left i n t he remoter forests w he r e

, , ,

commu nicati o n s w ere n o t so easy ; a n d the forests if ,

prope r ly take n i n han d m ight have yiel d ed a ste a dy

,

supply o f la r ge timber fo r m a ny years Bu t u n fo r t u .

n a t e ly the g r ave mistake w a s n o w made o f a nn ou n ci ng

I ul d n t b e n d e st o d t say that n S a l ti mb e has b ee n

wo o u r o o o r

use d b ut its c st as c o m p a e d w ith the i mp te d mate ial has b ee n

o r or r

g eate
r r .
34 T HE HIGHLAND S OF C E N T RAL I NDIA .

that a ft er a c er t a in t i me the forests w ould b e brought

under G over nme n t management and stric t ly co n serv ed .

This w a s th e death - blo w t o the remai n der o f the Teak

th r oughout the n orther n parts o f the tract The rail way.

co n t r actors a nd nu merous speculato r s foreseei ng th e

, ,

value th at timb er wa s likel y to acqui r e o wi ng to rail

,

w a y o p eratio n s a n d the closi n g o f the forests the n w e n t

,

i n to th e j u n gl es w i t h bags o f rupees i n th eir h a n ds a nd ,

spread the m broadcast among the w ild tri b es w ith ,

i n structio n s to slay a nd spare n o t — to fell every Teak

tree la r ger tha n a sapli ng that they coul d fi n d a n d ,

mark them w ith their peculiar mar k I t w a s o n ly t oo

.

faithfully do n e a n d scarcely a nythi ng that wa s accessible

escaped the axe No w came delay i n th e rail w ay w orks
.
,

failure o f the co n tractors and w a n t o f m o n ey The cut

,
.

timber w a s aba n do n ed w h olesal e w he r e it lay Teak .

w ood is full of o il a n d bur n s readily after lyi n g for a

,

short time The j u ngle fires occurre d as u sual i n the

.

lo n g d r y grass w here th e l e g s w ere lyi ng a n d the great

,

maj ority o f the m w ere bur n t I The exact am ou nt o f th e

d estr u ction c a n n ever b e kno w n . Fo r years after wards ,

w he n explor i n g i n the forests w e co n ti n u ed t o com e o n

,

th e charred remains o f multitudes o f thes e slaughtere d

i nn oce nts most o f the m bei ng quite immature a nd u nfit
,

for felli ng at a ny ti m e A ll that w ere w orth anythi n g

.

w e r e saved by the Forest D epartme n t in after years ,

a n d th e v alue eve n of these amou n ted to ma n y lacs o f

r upees. They w ere n o t a hundredth part o f th ose that

w ere cut w hich should proba b ly b e recko n ed by m illio n s
,

rath er tha n th ousa n ds The i nj ury do n e to th e forests

,

a n d to th e c o u n t r y by this m ost mistake n m eas u re m ay

n eve r b e recovered certai nly i t ca nn ot be recovere d i n

’
less tha n t wo ge neratio ns o f the people s l i fe S uch wa s
.
 IN TR O D U CT OR Y . 35

o ne o f the m ost material results o f the utter ig norance

o f the ad m i nistrati ve office r s o f that period regardi ng

everythi ng co nn ected with the w ilder portio n s of their

c ha r ge .The m ischief had bee n completed a nd most o f
,

the timber speculato rs had bolted from their cre ditors ,

leavi ng their l e g s smoki ng i n the forests before the

,

formatio n o f the C e n tral P r ovi n ces a n d ere the Fo r est

,

D epartme n t had e nte red o n their la b our o f explori ng

a n d arranging for th e protection of w hat w a s still w orth

looki n g aft er S ucceedi n g chapters will give some a o

.

cou nt o f such o f these exploratio ns as the w r iter w a s

e n gaged i n ,a nd o f the p e nalties a n d pleasu r es that
accompa nied the early investigations in thes e C e n tral
I ndian fore sts .
 CH A PT ER II .

TH E A
NA R B D A V A LL E Y .

A CT I N G on i n structions I proceeded to the P u ehm u rre e

—
( Pachmarh i ) hills the l ofty block I have describe d as
cro wn i n g the S a tp u r a ran ge to th e s outh of th e N ar bad a
river There the ce ntre o f o u r operatio n s i n that ex
.

te n sive forest region w a s to b e fixed ; a pe rmane n t

forest lodge wa s to b e b uilt in the heart o f the country
o f the G o n ds a n d Kork u s w h ose i nterests w e w ere t o
,

e n deavour t o u nite w ith o u r o wn in th e p r eservatio n o f

th e remna n ts o f th e fi ne forests that clothed the slopes
of their hills Th e cou n try to be explore d w a s littl e
.

k n o w n ; but i t w a s su fficie n tly ascertai n ed that ple nty

of rough w ork w a s before u s in overcomi n g the obstacle s
prese n te d by th e r u gged n ature o f the la n d a n d its
i nhabitants .

Th e orga nisatio n o f such a cam p as is admissible in

such a w ild cou ntry occupies n o great time S i n ce the
, .

retu r n of my regiment to q u arters a year or so before I ,

ha d b ee n almost co n stantly o u t o n detachment d uty o r ,

o n sh ooti n g excursio n s ; a nd had added little t o the

mo d est prop erties I fou n d m yself possessed of at th e
c l ose o f some three ye a rs o f campi n g o u t in th e sub
H imalayan Terae an d subsequ e n t hunti ng up o f skulk
,
38 T H E HIGHLANDS OF C E N TR AL IND I A .

busi n ess to d o unless p erhaps in the extreme hot

,

w eather w hen n o trees are availab l e to pitch it u n der .

I t affords room e n ough fo r a light foldi ng be d stead o f

bamboo a cane stool a small foldi n g table a brass
, , ,

basin and sta n d a nd you r portmanteau a n d guns w hich

, ,

is all the furnis hing that the mere sportsman o r explore r

shoul d req u ire A ll this wi t h a g ood supply o f s uch
.
,

eatables and dri nkables as a r e n o t t o b e ha d in the

w ilder n ess w ill g o o n a good camel
,
a n d such ha d been

the extent o f m y pers o n al requireme n ts duri n g many a

rough expedition and h unti ng trip b efore the p resent
m a rch O n this o ccasion I added a n other te n t t w elv e
.

feet square for th e serva nts and a fe w ne w ly -e ntertai n e d

,

native foresters w ho w ere to assist i n my exploratio n s

an d w e w ere also furnishe d w it h a some what larger
—
d ouble roofe d tent by G over n me n t w hich wa s t o b e
,

p itched o n the hill as a d epOt w hile the con t e mp late d

maso n ry lodge w a s b ei n g erected To carry thes e
.

a d ditio n al imp edimenta I had four o r five o f the rough

littl e u n shod a n d u nkempt cou ntry p o nies called t a t to os
,

— hardy little villai n s w hom n o amou nt of w ork can

,

tire o u t o f im mediate readi n ess for a daily battle royal

w ith t eeth a n d heels the moment they are cast loos e
from their loads t o graze .

My o w n te nt travelle d as u su al upo n a camel I .

’
don t thi nk I w oul d hav e ventured to take a ny othe r
”
camel but J u ng l ee i n to the country I w a s goi ng to visit
“
.

Tho u gh th e camel is far more at home i n ro u gh and

diffi cult cou n try than his u n gainly - looking formation
w ould lead o n e to sup p ose there are ma ny p asses in
,

the M a ha deo hills w here these ani m als cann ot carry

th eir loads a nd som e w here they could not procee d a t
,
 TH E NAR BAD A V ALLEY . 39

all But J u ng l ee w a s a camel amo ng camels O f

. .

the l o w stout shaggy breed used by the C abu l

, ,

m ercha nts who a nn ually duri ng the cold seaso n ha w k

,

the d r ied fruits of their cou n try over the plai ns o f I ndia ,

I had found a nd caught him r u nni ng w ild a n d o wn e r l ess

a m o ng the hill s alo n g the C a n e rive r i n Ba nd el ka n d .

When o u t shooti n g I w a s astonished to see him start

o u t o f a thicket ,
a n d fl e e like a deer over rocks a n d

ravi n es ; a n d a rare chase w e had — sepoys camel -m en , ,

a n d camp follo w ers — before w e got him i nto a cor n er ,

a nd b ou n d his spra w li n g legs a nd threate ni n g j aw s

w ith te n t ro p es a n d led hi m a w ay bet w ee n a couple
,

of tame l o a d s t e r s to have his n ose rebored a n d b e starved

,

into a peaceful return t o the uses Of his race H e ha d .

probably b een abandoned by some party o f hard

r e s s e d r eb e l s l o n g e n ough before I s a w him t o have
p ,

b eco me perfectly at hom e in the j u ngles a n d t o have ,

got i nt o fi rs t - rate condit io n A better b east to scramble

.

over b r eak n eck ground w it h a heavy load I n ever s a w .

Poor J u n glee ! h e afte r wards e n ded his d ays under the

a w o f a tiger i n the B et u l forests duri n g o n e o f his
p
p eriodical relapses i nto th e l ife o f freedom he had
tasted in the w ilds o f Ba n delka n d .

O n the 1 l t h o f January I b ade adieu to the pretty

,

littl e statio n o f J u bbu lpur (J a ba lpii r ) and to my ,

comrades o f th e gallan t 2 5 t h P u nj a be e s I w a s really

.

sorry t o see the last o f the j o v ial ma nly compa ny o f

‘

S ikhs w ho composed the regime nt o ne o f the first o f

,

t he force that r o se o n the rui ns o f the Be ngal army i n

1 85 7. But soldieri n g in I n dia i n time o f peace is

, ,

truly o n e o f th e dreariest o f occupatio ns ; and I con

fess I w a s far from doleful at the pros p ect o f quitti ng
40 T HE H IGHLAND S OF C E N T RAL INDIA .

th e b on d age o f parad e routine for the fr ee life o f th e

forest a n d to thi n k that
N o b a b a o us d u m s shall b e my w ake n i ng u d e
r r r r

The j u ngl e c ck shall c o w my s w eet eveill e

o r r .

For the fi rst fi ve marches (eigh ty - t w o miles ) my route ,

lay do w n the ope n a n d w el l-culti v ated val ley o f the

N arbad a I n the first march I w e n t off th e high w ay
.

to pay a last visit to a remarkable sce ne o f beauty a fe w ,

miles t o th e south o f the road W ha t visitor t o

J u bbu lpur c a n ever fo rget th e Marble R ocks ! In
a n cou ntry a mighty river pe nt u i n to a thi r d o f its
y p
w idth a n d fo r a space of t w o miles o r more boili n g along
,

deep a n d sulle n b et w ee n t w o sheer w alls o f pure w hite

mar b le a hu ndred feet i n h eight must for m a sce n e
, ,

o f r are loveli n ess But i n a bustli n g dus t y O rie ntal

.
, ,

la n d th e cha r m o f cool n ess a nd quiet belo ngi ng to

,

these pure cold rocks a n d deep a nd blu e a nd yet pellucid

,

w ate r s is almost e ntra n ci ng

,
The eye n ever w earies
.

o f the i n fi n ite variety o f e fl e c t produced by the broken

a n d reflecte d su nlight n o w gla n ci ng from a pi nn acle

,

o f s n o w- w hite m arbl e rea r ed aga i nst th e deep blue

o f the sky as fro m a poin t o f silver tou chi ng here a nd
there w ith bright l ights the promi ne n ces of the middle
heights a n d agai n losi n g itself i n th e soft bluish grays
of their recesses S til l l o w er do wn the bases of the
.
,

c l ifl s are almost lost in a h a zy shado w so that it is har d ,

to tell at what p oi nt the rocks have melted i nto the

w ater from w hose depths the same lights i n reverse
,

order a r e reflected as clear as above but broke n into ,

a thousand quiveri ng fragm e nts i n the s wirl o f the pool .

H ere a nd there the w hite sacchari n e lim estone is

seam e d by vei ns o f dark green o r black volca n ic rock
 TH E NAR BA D A V ALLEY . 41

a co ntrast w hich o nly e n ha nces like a setti ng of j et , ,

th e purity o f th e surrou ndi ng marble Th e visitor .

GO R GE IN TH E N A RBAD A. T HE M AR BL E R o e xs .
(F r om a P ho t o g r a p h
.
)

to these Marbl e R ocks is p ole d u p t hro u gh the gorge

- “
in a fla t bottomed pu nt as far as the fall o f smoke ,
”

w here the N arbad a makes her first p lu nge i nto th e

mighty rift ; a nd there is n o difficulty i n dreami ng
42 T HE HIGHLAND S OF CEN TR AL IND IA .

a w ay the best pa r t o f a day i n the co ntemplation o f

if
this m a r v e llo u s s ce n e o f bea u ty .

The o nly d ra w back t o the peaceful e nj oyment o f

the sce n e is the prese nce o f n umerous col o nies o f bees ,

w h ose combs are to b e see n atta ched t o m ost o f the

j utting ledges o f the rocks o n the left ba nk I n cold .

w eather these i n sects s eem t o b e i n o ffe n sive ; b ut from

about March t o Ju ly a nything distu r bi ng o r irritati ng
,

t hem is almost certai n t o bring them do w n in s w arm s

o n th e offe n de r Their attack is Of a most determi n e d

.

c har acter ; a n d not l o ng b efore my Visit had proved

, ,

fatal to a n e ngi n eer e mployed i n s ou n d n the river fo r

a proj ected crossi ng o f the rail w ay I t is believed that .
,

o n this o ccasio n th e bees w ere roused by som e o f his

,

com p a n ions above shooti ng at the blue rock p igeo n s that

build i n the cli ffs o n w hic h they attacked fu riously thi s
,

ge ntlema n a nd a fr ie n d w ho w ere together in a boat

b el o w A ft e r a w hile both ge ntlemen sought protection
.

by taki ng to the w ater The o ne by taki n g lo ng dives

.

u n der w ater ma n aged t o elude the a ngry i nsects and

,

hide in o ne o f the fe w accessi b le cleft s of t he rock b ut

the othe r although a practise d s w immer w a s n ever l ost
, ,

sight o f bv the exaspe r ated creatures a n d in the en d ,

w a s dro wn ed a n d carried do wn the stream H e lies .

b urie d above the cliff u n der a m arble slab cut o u t from

,

t he rock b e n eath w hich he m et his death .

The species o f bee th at freque nts these rocks is I ,

believe the com mo n Bo nhr d (A p ia d o r s a t a ) w hich

, ,

attaches its large pen d e n t combs i n discriminately to such

rocks and to the boughs o f fores t trees There are t wo .

A fien d i n hu man sha p e h s p e p et ate d a p n i the visit s

a r r u ,
ii or
’

b o k ke p t at the little est-h o use a b o ve the cliff which w ill he e b e

o r r

sufficie ntly b vi us
,

o o .
 TH E NAR BAD A V ALLEY . 43

other spe c ies of bees commo n in C e n tral I ndia both ,

much smalle r tha n the Bo nhr a a n d n either of the m

,

i n cli n ed to act o n the o ffe n sive The Bo n hr a is of ve r y

.

commo n occurre nce in ma n y forest t r acts ; a n d I h ave

myself several times b ee n attacked b y them I f attacke d .
,

the o n ly resource is to rush i nto the n earest t hick b u sh ,

break off a leafy branch a n d lay about w ith it w he r ever

,

there is a n ope n i n g On o n e occasio n w he n marchin g

.
,

in the Ma n dl a dist r ict my baggage an ima l s a nd serva nts

,

w e r e attacked a n d scat t ered i n eve r y directio n

,
Many .

o f t he m e n a n d a n ima l s w e r e so seve rely stu n g as t o b e

laid up fo r several d ays ; a nd o n e o f the baggage po n ies ,

w ho could n o t get rid o f his load w a s killed o n the spot

,
.

O ur kit w a s fl u ng about all over the j u n gle a nd wa s n o t ,

all co l lected for several days On a n other occasio n a

.

val u able elephan t wa s a t t acked a nd driven a w ay i nto

,

the j u ngle ; a nd w a s so pa n ic - stricken that she coul d n o t

be recovered fo r days I have heard o f a lar ge fo r c e o f
.

troops in the Muti ny days bei n g routed horse a nd foot , ,

b y a s w a r m o f thes e te rr i bl e i nsects in the n eigh b ou r hood

,

o f L uck n o w. The honey a n d w a x of this a n d the other

species of b ee are regula r articles o f export fro m o u r
fo r ests Th e people w ho e n gage i n t he busi n ess o f
.

taki n g the m see m t o p ossess n o t a little of th e art o f the

bee -maste r ; bu t the y usually r esort to m o re forcible
measu r es a n d r o b th e combs after suffoca t i ng the te n ants
,

at n ight wit h th e sm oke o f torches T heir richest .

harvests a r e got from cli ffs l ike this o n the N arba d a ;

a nd s o me of their sle n der ladders o f b amb oo slips may

u sually be see n at the Mar b l e R ocks ha ngi ng from ,

the edge of the c l ifl s ove r th e abyss o f w ater The .

honey is i nferior in quality to that o f the d omesticated

bee o f E urope ; a n d is s ometimes eve n o f a p oisono u s
44 T HE HIGHLAND S OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

quality o w i ng to the b ees h avi ng resorted to some

,

n oxiou s fl o wer I t is e a sy to procu r e a com b by slici ng

.

i t o ff th e face o f th e r o ck w ith a rifle ball a n d I o n ce

had th e gratificatio n o f t hus Ope r ati n g o n th e col o nies

at th e Mar b le R ocks fr om a s a fe positio n o n th e o p posite
,

ba nk sendi n g s everal large com b -fri l ls to a w ate r y grave

,

in the d epths belo w .

The pres e n ce o f these i n hospitable bees r e n de r s i t a

matter for co ngratulatio n that t he fi n est impressio n of
the Ma r ble R o cks is t o b e got by the pale m oo nlight .
”

The bees a r e the n quite h armless ; a nd if the scene r y ,

has the n lost somethi ng in b r illia n cy of co nt r ast in its

l ights a nd shades it ha s gai n ed p erhaps more i n the
,

mysterious n ess a nd solem n ity that w ell be fi t a spot

seemi ngly created by D ei t y fo r a n eve r lasti ng temple to
himself I am so rr y to say that i n th e old J u bb u lpur
.
,

days w e n o t u n fr eque n tly used t o desecrate the san ctuary

,

by u nholy moo nlight pic n ics i n w hich ple nty of cham ,

pag n e brass ba n ds a n d so n gs that w ere sometimes very

, ,

much th e revers e of hym ns b ore the most pr o minent ,

part I t w a s v ery j olly though like m ost thi n gs that

.
, ,

are w ro ng .

A spot s o n atu r ally remark able as the Marble R ocks

coul d n o t escape s a nc t ifi c a t io n at th e han d s o f the
Brahma n s N othi n g m ore completely refutes the a c
.

c u s a t i o n o f w a n t o f taste for natur a l b e auty so oft en ,

m ad e agai n st the H i n d u s than thei r almost invariable

,

s electio n of the most p icturesqu e sites for thei r religiou s

b u ildi ngs M a ny o f the commo n est l ege nds o f H i nd u
.

myth ology h ave as u sual bee n tra nsplan ted by the

, ,

local priests to this n eighbourhood The mo nkey legio ns .

o f H a nu m a n here l eapt across the chas m o n their wa

y
to C eylon ; and the celestial elepha n t o f I n dra left a
46 T HE H IG H L A NDS OF C E NT R A L INDIA .

the spot ; a n d m a n y a shot bird thus disappea r s as i f ,

by magic before th e eyes o f th e g u nn er But he w ill

,
.

prefe r you r plum p retriever should h e see him n eari ng

,

the d u ck as he comes u p A dear Old s p a n iel of mi n e

.

named Q uail possessed of a n u n co n t r ollable craze

,

after th e d e u ks had so man y nar r o w escapes of thi s

,

sort that I n e ve r taught any o f the fou r ge n eratio ns o f

his desce n da n ts I have possesse d to ret r ieve fr om w ater .

A lthough o u r crocodiles are thu s little n oxious t o

life a n d m a y eve n adva n ce some clai ms t o m eri t as
,

scave n gers it is n ot in huma n n ature t o refrai n fr om

,

d estroyi ng so hideou s a reptile w he n a cha n ce occurs .

There is a spot i n th e gorge o f th e Marble R ocks w here

such a c han ce is seldom w a n ti ng A flat a n d sl ightly .

hollo wed rock -shelf at the w ater s e d ge i nv ites to n oo n ’

tide repos e thes e u n lovely m o n ste r s o f t he deep C ol d .

w eather a n d a w arm s u n see m to be the most favourabl e

co nditio n s The pl a ce is o n th e l eft b an k s ome qu arter
.
,

of a mile above the rest -

house ; a n d is mark ed by th e
droppi ngs o f th e brutes a n d of the aquatic bird s that
,

inva r ia b ly w atch o ver their sl umbers I f n e w as mi d .

,

day approaches you w ill take your rifl e a n d cross over

,

belo w the house a nd get you r ou n d to wh ere a cleft i n

,

the rocks comma n ds the spot a nd if the place has not ,

rece n tly b ee n m u ch disturbed you w ill s hortly p erceive

,

( if h e is n o t there before you

) the seei ng a n d smelli n
g
appa r atu s of o n e o r mo r e o f the reptiles fl oati ng slo wly
i n fr om mid - stream like t w o bu ngs out o f a cask
, .

N othi n g bu t expe r ie n ce w ill e n a b le you to d isti nguish

them at t his dista nce fr om the pieces o f d r ift w ood
al w ays floati ng do w n th e stream so m a r vellously d oes ,

nature protect eve n the most loathsome o f her pro

d u ct io n s
. T he c r ocodile ap p roach es the p r oj ected scene
 THE NA RB AD A V ALLEY . 47

of his siesta w ith immense cautio n L o n g a n d kee nly

.

h e reco nn oit r es it from a dista nce ; and if h e has a ny

s us p icions he w ill sink an d rise agai n a n d agai n d u r i ng

his approach I f not he w ill desce n d after the fi r st

.

good l ook a n d the n s w im right i n u nder w ater ; a n d

,

t he n ext thi ng you w il l s ee o f him w ill b e his rugged

head lyi ng o n th e ledge o f rock belo w you a nd a pai r o f ,

fishy eyes sl o w ly revolvi ng in a last su r vey o f the n eigh

b o u r ho o d . This do n e h e w ill h eave his huge bulk a nd
,

s errated tail side w ays o u t of the w ater a n d lie exte n ded ,

“ ”
a lo n g the edge ready to ,
w hammle i n agai n o n the
s lightest alarm Y ou w ill a im at hi m in th e ce n tre o f
.

the n eck j ust w he r e it j oi n s the head a n d if you the n

,

s hoot plumb - ce ntre bu t n o t other w is e h e w ill never

, ,

s tir. A di ffe r e n t shot m ight eve n tually perhaps be

fatal but this alo n e w ill p r event his reachi n g th e w ate r
a n d escapi n g to float u p i n a d a y o r t w o a sicke ni ng
,

mass o f cor r uptio n N othi ng possesses such a fright ful

.
,
“
a ncie n t fi s h-like smell as a c r ocodi le that has been
d ead for eve n a fe w hours Y ou c a n seldom get n ear
.

e n ough to o n e o f thes e creatures in a boat to kill hi m

w ith certai nty a n d the o n ly certai n pla n s are to w atch

f o r them at n o o n as I have desc r i b ed o r to bait w ith a ,

n oisy p uppy dog i n the eve n i ng at w hich time they

,

a p pear to be most o n th e feed .

F ew thi ngs are more e nj oyable tha n ma r chi n g along

d u r i n g the cold seaso n i n a rich ope n country like th e
N a r b ad a valley w ith a w ell - appoi n ted c a mp a n d ple nty ,

o f leisu r e t o li n ge r o ve r th e n u mero u s Obj ects of i n te r est

o r amuseme n t prese n ted b y suc h a tract V ery little o f .

this so r t of thi ng fell in the w a y o f th e forest Officers

o f those days ho w ever ,
O ur w ork l ay i n th e depths o f
.

d ista n t forests o r at m ost i n the half-

,
reclaime d frontier
48 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T R AL INDIA .

belt l y i ng bet wee n th e hills and the plains w here ti mbe r

,

tran sactio n s ge n erally took place a nd th e chief d e pOt s

,

fo r fo r est produce had b een esta b lish ed When by

.

cha nce o u r direct route fro m fo r est t o forest le d acros s

su ch a n ope n regio n o u r m ove me n ts w e r e as rapid a s
,

m a n a n d beast could mak e them ; a nd at the earliest

possible mom e n t w e hu r ried a gai n fr o m th e face o f
civilisatio n like ghosts at cock -
,
c r o w to bury ourselves
,

agai n in th e depths of th e w ilder n ess I n after years .

,

w h e n employed i n r eve n u e w ork i n a p opulous district ,

I s a w th e reverse o f th e picture March i ng b y fai r

.

roads a n d easy stages w ith a du plicate s et o f canvas

,

h ouses (for su ch o u r la r ge I n dia n te n ts really are ) o n e ,

o f w hich goes o n -
over n ight an d is pitched ready fo r
your ar r iv a l in th e mo r ni n g i n th e d eep shade o f som e
,

ma ngo grove n ear a po pulous village w hich su pplies al l

,

you r w a nts star t i ng after the mo r n i n g cup of hot coffee

t o ride slo w ly along th r ough g r ee n fields a n d g r assy
plai n s ; a n d looki ng o n the forest -cov ered hills o n t he
b lu e ho r i z o n o nly a s a n ag r eeabl e va nishi n g poi n t in t he
la n dscape or as u n pleasa ntly complicati ng the qu estio n s
,

of liquor excis e a nd police a d m inis t r a t io n l I t is

ama z i n g w h at a differe n ce t he poi n t of Vie w m akes .

Th e m a n w ho has d w elt fo r years amo n g th e fo rests ,

a n d th eir simpl e w il d i nh abita nts ,

w ill r egard n early
every qu est io n t hat arises i n a w h olly d iffere n t light
fr o m hi m w hose expe r ie nce has lai n only am o ng t he
cor n fields o f th e plai n s a n d th eir tame a nd settled
,

tille r s A n d each of th em w ill probably a r r ive at a

.

co n clusio n as littl e comprehendi n g th e w hole bear i n gs

o f t h e questio n as the other .

Th e climate of C e nt r al I n dia in th e col d season t hat

i s from N ovember t o Marc h is almost perfect for t he
, ,
 T HE NAR BAD A V ALLEY . 40

life o f combined outdoor exercise a nd i n door occupation

w hich forms th e healthies t sor t o f existe n ce i n I ndia .

The mid d ay s u n if a little hot for hard w ork in the

,

ope n air is j ust sufficie n t t o make the temperature

,

u n der ca n vas delightful w hile th e m orni n gs a n d

,

eve ni ngs are cool a n d braci ng a nd the n ights col d ,

e n ough to mak e several b lan kets a n ecessity In .

Jan uary ice w ill generally be fou n d o n w ater that has

,

bee n exposed all night N othi ng c a n in my opi nio n

.
, ,

e xcee d the exhilar ati ng effec t of a march a t such a

seaso n w ith pleasa n t compa nio n s through a cou ntry
, ,

teemi ng w ith i n te r est in its sce n ery its people and its , ,

n atural productio ns such as is this regio n of the

,

N arbad a valley .

Th e valley w a s not lo ng ago — not lo n g that is i n , ,

the history o f cou n tries — a hu nti n g grou n d of the

G o nds a n d other w ild tribes w ho are n o w chiefly c o n
fi ned to the hills w hic h surr ou n d it A t most it could .
,

have bee n but sca ntily patched by their r ude tillage

b efore the a r rival Of th e H i nd u races w ho have cleared ,

its fo r ests d r ive n the w ild e l epha nt that roamed

,

t hro u gh them to the far east and covered its black soil ,

w ith a n u n broke n stretch o f w heat cultivation that

strikes every Visitor w ith admiratio n I n less tha n .

three ce n turies this has bee n do n e ; and yet it is the

c ustom to say that I n dia is an u n prog r essive cou n try ,

t hat she has b ee n sta n di n g still si n ce the b egi nn i ng o f

history 1 E verythi n g sho ws that this cou ntry is still in

its very youth The peopl e s t r ong -limbed a nd healthy
.
, ,

rej oici ng in the rude abu nda nce that falls to the lot of
e n er getic races tilli ng a n almost Vi r gin soil Tilli ng it .

r oughly it is true getti n g from it n othing appro a chi n g

, ,

to t he quan tity o f p r oduce extracted by the de nser

50 T H E HIGH L AND S OF C EN T R A L INDIA .

po p ulatio n s o f l o ng -
reclai m e d tracts from mu ch inferior
so il s ; but st ill tilli n g it in the w a y w hich is th e mos t
,

p rofitable t o a sca nty p o p ulation w ith a p oor accumula

tion o f w ealth and stock Th e exam p l e o f a l l n ew
.

countries w ith mu ch available land even w hen as , ,

in A merica all the resources o f capital and machinery

,

are available sho w s that a com p aratively rough culture

,

o f a large area is more remu n erative than the high er

tillage o f a smaller area an d this alo n e is th e cause o f

th e rude stat e o f agriculture still observed in this and
many other parts o f I ndia A t present ple n ty for all
.
,

is the rule p overty the very rare exception Well -

,
built .

houses w ell -
,
stocke d cattle yards a nd a general air o f
,

comfort a n d ha p pi n ess ca nn ot fail t o arrest the atten

,

tion in H i n d u V illages I t is tr u e that the people o f

.

the soil thos e o f the Gon ds w ho have preferred t o stay

,

an d serve a H ind u master to a retreat to the hills are ,

p oorly clad a n d house d livi n g like outcasts b eyon d the

,

limits o f the H in d u quarte r ; but they t oo a r e at least, ,

sufficie n tly fed ; and nothing but their o wn innate

apathy a n d Vice prevents the m from receivi n g a greater
share o f the s urroun d i n g p le nty .

A s the influence o n the aborigines in the p ast an d ,

at the present time o f their contact w ith thes e inva d ing

,

H ind u races w ill after w ards form m atter o f co n sidera

tion it is important t o u nderstand o f what material
,

these H in d u races th emselves are really compose d .

They have generally been comprehen d ed in th e category

” “
of
“
A rya n as disti n guished from the Ta u r a nia n
,

p eo p les who are b elieve d to have preceded the fair

compl exioned A ryan i nva d ers from U pper A sia in the
occu p atio n o f H i n dosta n a n d am o n g w hom a r e i n cluded
,

th e remna nts o f w ild tribes still fou n d i n th e hills .

 TH E NA RB AD A V ALL E Y . 5 1

Bu t it needs but littl e observation of these H in d u races

to p erceive that they th emselves hav e lo n g been
s u bj ected to some influ ence w hich h a s greatly modifie d
the origi n al high A rya n type —a ty p e w hich i ncludes
the noblest races o f ma nki n d th e C aucasia n o f E uro p e ,

th e P e rsian o f high A sia a n d th e S a nscrit -

, speaki ng
“
fair - ”
ski nn ed people wh o e n tere d I n dia from the
n orth u n calculated ages ago That influence cannot
.

have bee n one of climate o n ly w hich w o uld have ,

affected all thei r d escendants equally ; w hereas w e see

existi ng the greatest ran ge o f diversity fr o m the light ,

coloured noble -featured Brahman o f th e extrem e north

,

w est to the black a n d negro - like chamar or paria h o f

t he east and south E verythi n g show s th a t th e cause
.

has bee n a mi ngling o f the immigra n t race w ith th e

i n ferior T a u r a n ia n tribes w hom they found occupying
the soil b efore them T o j udge from p hysical a p
.

e a r a n c e fe w but th e high est castes of N orther n I n dia

p ,

c a n have a ny clai m to purity o f A rya n blood ; a n d the

admixture of i n dige n ous blood as indicate d by colour

,

a nd feature appears t o be greater and greater the

,

further we proceed from the seat o f the original A ryan

settlements in the north - w est I t can s carcely be
.

doubted the n that the modern H ind u s are a com p osite

, ,

race resulti n g fr o m th e absorption o f a w ave o f

,

A ry a nism in a great ocean o f peoples o f a far inferior

—
type the type i n fact represented by such o f them as
, ,

have still remai n ed u n diluted in their inaccessible hills .

The force o f th e w ave di minished as it p roceeded ; and

th e gra dations in the exte nt o f its influence are n o w so
subtle that it is har d to say w here the li n e sh ould b e
,

dra w n to denote a p repo n deran ce o f the o ne eleme n t

over the other The difficulty is further i n creased by
.

E 2
52 TH E HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

the circumstan ce th at the A rya n la n guage customs a n d , ,

beliefs appear to ha v e bee n carried far b eyo n d a ny

perceptible i nflue n ce o f th e A rya n blood s o that w hole ,

races w ho sh o w little o r nothi ng o f th e latter have

, ,

b ecom e thoroughly imbue d w ith t he former .

N o t ho wever w ithout notabl e modi fi catio n have th e

, ,

A rya n la ngu age religio n a n d customs thus permeate d

, ,

the masses o f the i nferior races I n la n guage w hile th e

.
,

to ngu e o f th e m os t n orther n high -

caste races has cha nged
from the classical S anscrit scarcely more than w a s in
evitable fro m the w ear a nd tear o f us e throu gh such lo n g
ages that spoken by th e masses o f lo wer physical typ e
,

has suffered so radical an alteration that a lar ge proportion

o f its vocables i n some parts as much as half are n o t
, ,

traceable to S a nscrit at all ; w hile in S outhe r n I ndia ,

w here the aborigi n al type has been little modified purely ,

aborigi nal languages u n co n n ected w ith S a n scrit are still

, ,

s p oke n S till great er has been th e effect o n th e A rya n

.

r eligio n o f contact w ith thes e l o w er races The go d s o f .

the primitive A rya n s have almost disappeared fro m

practical recognition The backb o n e o f the origina l
.

s ystem survives in its p riesthood and ceremonial j ust as ,

t he backbone o f the la n gu a ge survives i n the gram

ma t i c a l forms o f th e i n vaders B ut as the vocables

.
,

o f the to n gue h ave fre q u ently b ee n ado p ted fro m th e

aborigi n es s o probably have the p o p ular go d s o f th e

,

pa ntheo n been la r gely d ra w n from aboriginal sources .

N o religiou s s y stem p ossesses s uch facility for prose

l y t is i ng as a pol y theism a n d history sho ws that w hen
t wo su ch systems mee t th ere is nothi n g to stan d in th e
,

w a y o f their coalesci n g but the rivalry o f their priests .

H e r e there probably wa s n o such rivalry To j udge .

from those w hich remai n the aborigi n al tribes had n o

,
54 T H E HIGHLANDS OF C E N T R AL INDIA .

already engulfe d th e great mass o f the i ndige n ou s nations

o f I n dia a n d w hic h w a s still ready to absorb in a similar
,

ma nn er a ny nu mb er more of them that th e ab origines ,

o f C entral I ndia cam e in contact What has b een th e .

result w ill be d is cussed in a fu ture por t io n o f t his w ork .

I n a ne w cou n try like this few obj ects o f a n tiquaria n

,

i nterest attract the attentio n o f the traveller A llusion .

ha s already bee n m ade to th e traces of isolate d s ettle

m ents o f A ry a ns in th e cou ntry w ho had all b een s we p t ,

a w ay a gai n or had b ee n absorbed in the indigenous

,

elem ent surrou ndi n g them before th e true history o f

,

th e cou n try opens ; a n d a fe w shapeless ruins still remain

“
to mark th e sites o f som e o f t hese settlem ents in t he
”
u nremembered ages G e n erally ho w ever eve n th e
.
, ,

religiou s e d ifices which in the E ast seem to o u tlast all

,

others w ill b e found t o be o f very m o d ern date and o f

, ,

littl e pretensio n to interest Th ey w ill frequently b e .

met w ith sta ndi n g o n th e embankme n t o f some w ater

tank covered w ith the lotus in full bloom a nd sha d ed
, ,

by gr eat trees o f mango tamari n d a nd fig V ery ofte n

, ,
.

the camp w ill be pitche d alo n gside o f them for the sake ,

of the fine shade ; a n d t he w ild fo w l and snipe that

frequent the ta nks w ill probably for m a n attractio n t o ,

the sportsman at least su p erior to the allurements o f

,

such p oor antiqu ities .

S nip e and wild fo wl b egin to arrive i n these central

regio n s o f I n d ia voyagi ng fro m the froze n w il d s o f
,

C e ntral A sia early i n O ctober ; and b efore th e end

, ,

o f N ovember every piece o f w ater an d s w ampy hollo w

,

f
a ff ord s its conti nge n t to the gun The common t ea l fi .

and th e w histli ng t ea l f are th e most numerous as w ell

, ,

as the first to make their a pp earance The lovely blue .

Qu cr qu ed u la
J
c r ec ca .
r D e nd r o c yg na a ws u r ee .
 TH E NAR B AD A V ALL E Y . 55

if
w inge d teal is scarcely less common ; a n d o f larger
d ucks the red -
, headed p o c ha rd f the wig e o nj ; the pi ntail § , ,

and the ga d w all [I are foun d throughout the w i nte r

,

o n nearly every tank o f tolerable si z e O n the m ai n .

rivers and o n t he larger reservoirs s u ch as thos e o f

, ,

Bhand a ra a n d L achor a in N imar w hich though o w ing , , ,

their existence to the han d o f man (the gia nts o f pas t

days who k n e w the requirements o f I ndi a b etter tha n
,

their successors ) yet approach th e d ig n ity o f lakes

, ,

many other species o f w ild fo w l w ill be found inclu di ng ,

that ki ng o f d ucks the m a l la r d fil th e commo n gray,

goose f f
, and the black - backe d g o o s e frf The latter species
is extremely common ; the others w hich are mu ch ,

superior for th e table are comparatively i nfre qu ent ,

.

N umerous w adi ng birds storks hero ns a n d cranes , , , ,

haunt every pool a n d marsh Fe w o f thes e o ffer m uch .

tem p tatio n t o the sportsman exce p t th e D emoiselle ,

c r a ne
II
,
ge n erally kno wn as th e C oole n w hich is mu ch ,

sought after a nd is the r efore diffic u lt t o approach F e w

, .

exte n sive w heat o r g r a m fields in the N arbad a valley

w ill be fou n d at this season w ithout a flock o f these
delicious bir d s stalki ng across it in the m orni ng and ,

e ve ni ng grazi n g o n the young sh oots

,
.

I f encamped in th e neighbourhood o f a river o r

s wamp the traveller w il l probably b e aroused at d ay
,

break by the quaveri ng and sonorous call o f the giant

Sa rus a bird re vered by the H ind u s as a type o f
co nj ugal affection They are nearly al w ays seen in
.

p airs a nd shoul d o ne o f them be shot by the ruthless

, ,

c i r cz a
'

Q . . II A na s bos che s .

f er i na
'
"
r A nthz a . A nser ci ner eu s .

3
; M a r eca p enel op e .
H A mela no no t u s
“

. .

D a fi l a a cu i a 11: A nthr op o z d es mr g o
' ’

. .

ll Cha ndl el a s mu s s t r ep er u s . Gr u s a nt i g o ne .
5 6 T HE HIGHLAND S OF CEN TR AL IND IA .

gu nn er the compa nion bird w ill return a gai n and agai n

,

to th e spot to h over and lam ent over its slai n frie n d in

,

a ma n ner that generally p revails o n th e h ardest hearte d

t o gra n t immunity to th e race for ever after A contrast .

to this happy u nio n o f lovers is fou n d by t he H i n d u in

the Br a miny d u cks f w hich als o associat e in p airs but
f
, ,

by a cruel fate are c omp e l l ed t o p ass thei r n ights on the

,

o pp osite ba n ks o f a strea m w aili n g fo rth their unavaili ng ,

”
l ove in the melan choly c hu k w a c hu kw i w hich few “
, ,

travellers by th e rivers o f I n d ia have faile d t o hear in

th e d usk o f the evening Their u n fi t ne s s for the table .
,

probably m o r e tha n the H i nd u a d a ge against thei r

slaughter protects th em from th e g u n
, .

O f other w inge d game th e gray qu ail— b est o f I n dia n ,

game birds in my opi nio n— will b e found in good nu m

,

bers in m ost grai n fields I h ave n ever see n th em h ere i n

.

such s w arm s as in s ome p arts o f upper I n dia w here eighty ,

o r a hu n d r e d brace m ay b e bagge d i n a day ; but the

spor t is n on e the w orse for that T wenty brace is a .

fi rst -
rate bag in C entral I nd ia an d generally th e s p orts ,

m a n has t o b e contente d w ith m u ch l ess The common .

gray part ridge w hich cl osely resembles in appearance

,

the E nglish bir d abou n ds in m an y places I t hugs the

, .

vici nity of v illages a n d fee d s foully I have seen a

,
.

covey o f them run o u t o f th e carcase o f a dead camel ,

and s p ee d across the p lai n like so m any hares These .

nasty habits a n d its skulki n g n ature m uch belie its

, ,

appeara n ce as a bir d o f game Far different is the gallant .

L
pai nte d p a r t ridg e i w hich here takes the p lace o f the
,

black p a r t r idg e f o f upper I ndia I have see n the latter .

in Ba nd élka nd but I am p ositive that it no where occurs

in the C e n tral Provi n ces Th e appeara n ce o f the t wo .

Ca s a r ea . r u bil a
J
' ’

.
r F r a nco l z nu s p i c t u s .
I F . o u lg a r z s .
 TH E NAR B AD A V AL L EY . 57

species is so alike and their habits are so i d entical that

, ,

assertio n s to the contrary have n o doubt arisen from

mistake . N 0 game bi r d coul d afford more p erfect
shooti n g than the p ai n te d partridge O f handsome .

plumage a nd excellent o n the t able his habits in th e

, ,

field admirably ada p t hi m fo r th e p urp oses o f the gun .

H e frequ e n ts the outskirts o f cultivatio n in s p ots w here ,

b ushes a n d grass -cover fr i nge the edge o f a stream fo r ,

h e seems to b e very imp atient o f thirst The proximity .

o f some sort o f j u n gle s eems to b e as n ecessary as t he

n eighbourhood o f cro p s Mor ni n g a nd eve n i ng small

.

coveys o r p airs o f the m w ill b e fou nd o u t feeding in the

stubbl e o f the cut autu mn crops that latest reaped ,

being the most likely fi nd On being disturbe d they

.

seldom r u n farther than to the edge o f the n eares t cover ,

from w hich o n bei ng flushed they rise like rockets w ith

, , ,

a great whir r straight u p fo r t we n ty o r thirty yards

, ,

and then sail a w ay over the t o p o f the cover t o a

dista nce Of a fe w hundred yard s ; this time plum p i ng
i nto the middle o f the cover from w hich i t is no t so easy
,

t o raise th e m agai n This beautiful bird is most com

.

me n i n the extreme w est o f the C entral Pro vi n ces a n d ,

i n good s p ots a b ag o f t e n to fift een brace t o each g u n

may b e made in N im a r a n d the T a p t i valley .

The most common w a y o f sh ooti ng quail a n d p art

r idges is by beati n g them o u t w ith a line o f m e n ; bu t

i t is a poor s p ort compare d t o shooti n g them over dogs .

I have used b oth pointers a nd spaniels i n this s p ort The .

former se cu re the b est o f s hooti ng in th e ear ly morni n g

and late in the eve ni n g w hile the birds are o u t o f cover
,

and t he sce nt good and four hours shooti n g m a y thus

,
’

b e h ad i n the day But a team o f lusty s p an iels is

.
,

I thi nk o n the w hole p referable as they are useful als o

, ,
58 T HE HIGHLANDS OF C EN T R AL INDI A .

for many sorts o f co ver shooti ng w h ere p ointers coul d

n o t b e w orked They also ke ep their heal th better
.
,

a n d degenerate less in breedi ng than any other i m

porte d d og w hich is p robably due to their descent from
,

a race originate d i n a w ar m climate They make th e .

best o f all com p anions an d are not s o liable to come

,
”
t o grief in many w ays as larger dogs Fres h imported .

bloo d is ho w ever require d at least once in every t wo

, , ,

ge n er a tions t o keep all E nglish s p or t i ng dogs up t o their

,

b est i n I ndia The spa n iels shoul d either be large

.

C lu mbers o r o f the heavy S ussex breed as a small dog

, ,

like a cocker ca n not p enetrate the j u ngle cover The .

n oble C lumber other wise faultless has the fault for this
, ,

p articular p urp ose of givi ng no to ngu e o n game I com

m e nc e d the breed w hich I mai n tai n e d for t welve years
,

i n I n dia w it h a strai n o f pure C lu mber in the n ever -

, to
b e- fo r gotte n Q uail —a dog that for looks a n d q uality
surp assed a nythi ng o f the breed I c a n n o w d iscover i n
E ngland All his descenda n ts w ere m ore o r less crosse d
.

w ith S u ssex o r cocker bloo d ; b ut no n e o f the m ever

gave t o ngue till the fourth generatio n w he n sy m pto ms ,

o f it b egan to ap p ear O n the whole the n I thin k I

.
, ,

w ould p refer th e heavy S u ssex breed .

O n o ne occas io n th e w hole o f my spaniels w e r e very

”
n early bei ng w ipe d o u t by o ne o f a class of accidents
that must be looked fo r i n I ndia I w a s sh ooting quail .

“ ” ”
in a grai n fiel d near J u bb u lpur with Q uail S nip e , , ,

“ ” ”
N ell a nd Jess w he n o n a su d d en they a ll began
, , , ,

to j ump Violently about s n appi n g at w hat seeme d t o

,

me t o be a large rat Bu t comi ng n earer I m ade o u t

.

that it w a s a huge cobra erec t o n his coil an d striki ng

, ,

right a n d left at the dogs I lost n o time in p elti ng .

’
t h em o ff w ith cl ods o f earth a n d then cu t the brute s ,
 TH E NA R BAD A V ALL E Y . 59

hea d o ff with a charge o f shot ; when I fou n d that th e

sn a ke had been in the act o f s wallo wing a rat o f which ,

the hind - legs and tail w ere protru d ing fro m his j a ws s o ,

that his repeate d lunges at th e d ogs had fortu n ately

been harmless A l l these s p aniels w ere fa mou s ratters
.
,
’
an d ha d no d oubt been attracte d by the cobr a s mouth
ful fo r th ey generally ha d like a ll dogs o f a n y ex p erience
, ,

i n I n d ia a w holesom e drea d o f the s n ake tribe

,
I never .

lost any o f these dogs by a n accident th ough exposed t o ,

a ll th e d angers o f pa n thers hye n as w olves s nakes a n d

, , , ,

crocodiles ; a nd all o f them lived t o a good age in ,

excellent h ealth A s w ith m en E nglish d ogs ke ep

.
,

healthy enough if p ro p erly treate d in accor d ance w ith

the cli mate .

O f larger game the p ri ncipal animal met w ith in the

,

s ettle d parts is th e black a n t e l o e fi w hich has probably

f
p
follo w ed the cleari ngs made by the immigrant races .

The aversio n o f this a nimal to thick uncleared j u ngle

has m ade it in the H i nd u sacred literature a type o f
, ,

t he A ry a n pale o f the land fi t te d for the occupati on o f

,

the fair- ski nn e d races ; and the ap p ro p riate s eat o f the

devote e is still upon its black a nd w hite skin I t is t o o .

w ell kno w n to require a ny mi n ute d escription S uffice .

it t o say that no t even i n A frica —

, the la nd o f antelopes
— is there any species w hich surpasses the black b uck “ ”

i n loveliness o r grace I n C ent r al I n dia although t his

.
,

antelo p e attains th e fu ll si z e o f b ody the h orn s o f th e ,

b u ck (the female i s h ornless a n d o f a fa w n colour) rarely

exceed a l e ngth o f 2 2 i n ches I hav e shot o n e w ith .

horns i n ches an d see n a p air that measure d 2 6

,

inch es
. The lo nges t horn s are probably attaine d in
G uj er a t a nd about B hurt p u r in N orthern I n d ia I n all
, .

A ntel op e cer vi ca p r a .
60 T HE HIGHLAND S OF C E N T RAL I NDIA .

the cor n districts o f C e ntral I ndia it is foun d in con

s i d er a b l e herds a n d does mu ch da m age t o the young
,

cro p s
. I h ave see n h er d s in th e S a gar cou ntry im ,

mediately after th e Mutiny o f 1 8 5 7 w hen they w ere ,

little m oleste d w hich must have n u mbered a tho u san d

,

o r m ore i n divi d uals A tolerabl e sh ot cou l d at that

.

tim e k ill almost a ny n u mb er h e ch ose I n most culti .

v a t e d districts tracts o f th e p oorer la n d are kept u n der

,

grass for cattle - grazi ng etc a nd these p rese r v e s are

, .
,

ge n e r ally the favo u rite mid d ay resorts a nd the breedi ng

g r ou n ds o f t he a n telo p es Thence in the e ve n i ng they
.

troop o u t in squadro n s o n t o the cultivated l a n ds i n the

vici n ity ; a n d all the night long co n ti nu e grazing o n the
te n der wheat shoots returni n g i n the g r ay of the mor n
,

ing to their safe retreat Ma n y w ill ho w ever remain

.
, ,

i n th e fiel d s th e w h ole d a y sleepi ng a n d gr a z i n g at

,

i nt erval s u n l ess d rive n o ff by th e cultivators I n su ch

,
.

p laces th e voices o f th e w atchers in th e fields w ill b e

heard in th e still night shouti n g conti nu ously at the
antelopes ; but th ey s el d om su cceed in e ffecti n g m ore
than t o m ove the m about from fiel d to fiel d doi n g m ore ,

damage p robably t han if they w ere l eft alo n e for a b uck ,

killed i n th e m orni ng w ill al ways be foun d filled n early

to bursti n g w ith th e green foo d A ltho u gh m a n y o f .

them are shot by the village shik a ri s at n ight and m ore ’

s nared a nd n etted by th e p rofessio n al hu n ters called

P a rd i s (w ho use a trai ned bullock in stalki n g rou n d
th e h erds t o screen th eir m oveme n ts ) the resources ,

o f the n atives are altogether i n su fficie n t i n a cou n try ,

favourable to the m to keep do w n the nu mbers of these

,

p rolific a n d w a ry creatures ; and it is a perfect go d send

t o them w hen th e E urop ean sportsma n hits on thei r
neighbourhood a s a hu nti ng -grou nd .
62 T HE HIGH L AND S OF CEN T R A L IND IA .

might otherw ise escape I f you h ave a brace o f goo d

.

greyhoun d s i n th e distance rea d y to slip th e cha n ces ,

w ill b e still b etter A w ou n d ed buck ofte n gives a

.

beautiful run w ith greyhoun d s w hich have n ever been ,

k no wn to catch a n u n touched and p erfect antelop e

o n fair hard grou n d though un d er conditions un d uly
,

favourable t o th e dogs they h ave sometimes done s o .

A sh ooti ng horse like s everal w hic h I have possesse d

, ,

w ho is quite steady u n der fire does n o t nee d to b e ,

tied a n d will come t o call is a p erfect treasure fo r

, ,

ma ny sorts o f s p ort i n I nd ia A s i n all good qualities

.
,

the A rab is the m ost likely to develop such a character ;

‘

but most horses are capable o f bei n g taught something

of th e bu siness S hould n either horse n o r h ou n d s b e
.

at hand a w ou n de d buck shoul d n o t be follo w e d u p

,

too quick ly . I f left t o himself h e w ill probably lie

d o wn in the first cover he comes to ; an d by w atching
the li n e he takes you may ofte n follo w u p an d secure
him .

I n u p per I n d ia they are frequently shot by a p

pr e achi ng them on a ridi n g cam el Th e more bells .

and gay tra p pi ngs he has o n him th e better as the ,

antelo p e o n this plan fall Victims to their curiosity

an d amazement . I brou ght d o w n to C e ntral I ndia
with me a trai ne d camel w ith w hich I had thus b e,

w ildered ma n y an antel o p e i n to rifle d istance ; but

after getting som e da ngerous tumbl es o w ing to th e ,

yawni n g cracks that form in the black soil i n these

provi n ces after the rains I had to abandon th e camel
,

as a shooti ng vehicle A s a sport a n telop e -

. shooting
palls u p o n the taste There is too much o f it a n d
.
,

i t lacks variety .S o I should think als o w ould b e

the case with much o f th e A frican sport w e rea d o f .
 TH E NA RB A D A V ALL E Y . 63

To the begi nner in I ndian sport ho w ever there is no , ,

pursuit more fasci nati ng The game bei ng nearly

.

al w ays w ithi n sight the excitem e nt is mai ntaine d

,
’
throughout th e day s s p ort S im p le as it seems i t.
,

takes a good man a n d a good ri fle to make much o f

a bag w he n the a ntelope have been mu ch disturbe d .

The Old han d is a p t to smile at the e nthusiasm o f

th e gri ff w he n he d ilates o n the glories o f a ntelope
stalki n g but the time w a s w hen he t o o passed through
the stage at w hich th e acquisition o f a particular lo n g
spiral pair of h orn s w a s more t o him than t he w ealth
o f a l l the I ndies a n d w he n n othi n g impressed hi m so
,

profou n d ly w ith the van ity o f all human affairs as the

“ ”
miss o f a fe w i n ches under or over w hich so fr e ,

quently t erminated the w eary stalk Perhaps I may .

be allo w ed to quote a d escription o f the pursuit of a

master buck w ritte n man y years ago w he n I myself
, ,
”
w a s in the throes o f the b uck fever .

“
I had frequently see n in my rambles over the
antelop e plai ns a m o r e than ordi n arily mag n i fi ce n t coal
black buck I had w atched him for h ours through m y
.

’
‘
D ollond but my most la b o rious attempts to reach him
,

by stalki n g had as yet proved fu tile H is horns w ere .

p erfectio n o f great si z e w ell set o n t wisted a n d k n otted

, , ,

like the g n arle d branch o f a n o ld o a k-tree A s the sun .

glanced o n his sable coat it shone l ike that o f a race ,

horse fit to run for the T wo Thousan d G uinea S takes

l n fact he w a s the bea u i d ea l o f a perfect black buck
, .

O f course the more difli c u l t the task appeared th e more

, ,

deter m i ned w a s I that these superb horns sh ou ld b e

m ine a n d that in future I w ould disregard every buck
,

exce p t th e one H e wa s constantly atten d ed by t wo

.

does to w hom he confi d ently entruste d the d uty o f

,
 64 T HE H IGHLANDS OF CEN TR AL INDIA .

watchi ng ove r his perso n al safety — a n d faithfu l se nti n els

th ey w ere Th ey s eemed to relieve each other w ith th e
.

p r ecisio n of se n tries a n d cleve r i n deed w ould b e the

,

stalker who could approach w ithi n ma ny hu n dred paces

ere th e w arn i n g hiss o f the w atchful doe ar oused th e
gra n d sig nior fr om his siesta I t w a s the n gra n d to se e
.

the m aj estic air o f th e buck as aft er st r etchi n g his , ,

graceful limbs h e sl o w ly paced to w ards the obj ect o f his

,

suspicio n still t o o far dista n t t o caus e him a ny alarm

, .

No w h e sto p s a n d tossi n g his n ostrils i n th e air s nuffs

, , ,

the breeze that might co n vey to his delicate se n se the

huma n tai n t No w he la z ily c r o p s a blade or t w o o f
.

grass o r scie n tifically W hisks a fly from his glossy haunch

,

w ith the tip o f his hor n ; anon h e sau n ters up t o on e o f

his p art n ers a n d seems to take cou nsel regardi ng the
,

state o f affairs A gai n as som e m ovement o f the distant

.
,

fi gure catches his eye his su d d en w heel and prolo n ge d

,

gaze sho w that despite his careless mien n ot for a

, ,

mo m e n t has he l ost sight of his w ell - kno wn foe B ut .

soo n th e does begi n t o take real alarm and after fi dg e t

ing rou n d their lord as if to a p prise him of the fu ll
,

exte n t o f the da n ger trot o ff together to w ards som e

,

other hau n t No w th ey halt a moment a n d look rou n d

.
,

a p pealingly to the buck a n d agai n w ith feig n ed con ,

s t er n a t i o n start o ff at a gallo p every no w and the n ,

taki ng imaginary t e n-barre d gates i n their stride A t .

last the b uck after remai n ing behi n d a decent time to

,

mai n tai n his character for su p erior courage follo w s the m ,

at a pace tha t mocks the e ff orts of every animal o n the

face o f the earth bu t o n e— the hu n ti ng leopard .

“
S uch w a s the i n variable resul t of my best efforts
for u p wards o f a w eek I w oul d n ot risk a lo ng shot
.
,

as it might drive him for ever fr om that part of th e

 TH E NAR B AD A V ALLEY . 65

country H is favourite hau nt wa s a w i d e grassy p lai n

.
,

intersecte d here a nd there by dry w atercourses up which ,

I ha d m a ny a w eary crawl c entr e a t er r e I soon foun d

, .

o u t his usual feedi ng a n d dri n king places a n d observe d

th a t to reach the latter he almost daily crossed a dee p ish

d ry nullah about the same p lace This struck me as .

affor d i ng the m eans o f circu mve nti ng him so I took up ,

my p ositio n in the nullah bu t as luck w ould h ave it ,

my buck took his w ater in some other directio n fo r the

next t wo days Many other her d s o f a ntelope constantly
.

passe d w ithi n easy shot o f where I wa s ensco n ce d ; but

n o t until I w a s almost giv i ng u p ho p e o n the thir d d ay ,

a n d w a s tak i n g a last s w ee p o f the plai n w ith my

b in ocular did the w ell -
,
kno w n form o f the master buck
greet m y v isio n as he slo wly w oun d his w a y w ith his
,

t w o inseparabl e compa n ions to war d s the pool to w hich

he had w atche d s o many o f his s p ecies passing an d
r e p assi n g i n safety .

“
The w i n d w a s favourable and the buck came ,

steadily o n till he arrived w ithin a long rifle shot o f

where I w a s posted H ere h e su dd enly thre w up his
.

hea d a n d aft er standi ng at gaze for a fe w moments

, , ,

turne d sharp to the left a nd starte d o ff at a ca nter for a

pass in the nullah about a quarter o f a mile fro m where
,

I w a s I k n e w he coul d n either have s een n o r smelt m e

.
,

and w a s at a l oss to account for his sudden pan ic till o n ,

turning round in disgust there wa s the cause behind

,

me in the shap e o f a small parcel o f d oes which ha d

, ,

evi d en tly been returni ng fro m the w a t er but havi ng , ,

discovered my u np rotected rear w ere n o w pulle d u p in

,

a bo d y and stari n g at m e with an air w hich had tele

,

graphe d th e state o f a ffairs to the o l d b uck in an

u n mistakable man n er I felt very m u ch incli n e d t o
.
66 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

s acrifice o n e of the i nquisitive does to my j ust w rath ,

bu t prefe r r ed the cha n ce o f a ru n ni n g shot at the bu ck

s o o ff I started at a c r ou chi n g r u n (some w hat tryi ng to
the small of th e b ack ) u p the bed o f th e n ullah i n the ,

hopes th a t the bu ck might have pulled u p ere he crosse d ,

a n d w ould still a fford m e a shot No r w a s I mistake n .

,

for o n tur ni n g a be n d of th e tortuous n ullah the r e he

, ,

stoo d br o adside o n i n all his mag nifice n ce n o t eighty

, , ,

yar d s fro m my rifle ; but al a s ! w ho could shoot after a ,

r u n ,
almost o n all -
fours of some 5 0 0 yards or so
,
?

Whe n I attempted to b r i ng th e fi ne sight to b ear o n his

s houlder my ha n d tremble d like an aspe n l eaf a n d t h e
, ,

s ight desc r ibed figu r es of eight all over his b ody There .

wa s n o h elp for it h o w ever ; h e w a s m ovi ng a way a n d

, ,

I might n eve r h a v e such another cha n ce S o al most in .

,

despair I fi r ed I w a s n o t su rpris ed to see the b all raise

,
.

th e dust a hu n d r ed ya r d s o r so o n his furth er side a nd ,

w ith a treme n dous b ou n d o f I fear to say h o w many ,

ya r ds st r a ight in the air a w ay w e nt the bu ck like a n

, ,

a rro w fr o m the bo w I n for a pe n n y in for a pou n d !

.
,

O nce fi r ed at I might as w ell h ave t he other sh ot ; so

,

steppi ng from my cramped positio n I held my breath ,

as I tried to cover his fl eeti ng figu r e w ith the seco n d

b a r r el H e h ad gai n e d at least 1 5 0 y a rds ere I tou che d
.

the t r igge r but th e ball sped tru e a n d over r olled t he

, ,

b u ck in a cloud of dust S hort w a s my triumph ho w .

,

eve r fo r e r e I had w ell take n th e rifle fr om my shoulde r

,

h e had regai ned his feet a nd w a s o ff w ith h ard ly ,

dimi n i s hed speed I t is very rarely th at an a ntelop e th us

.

sudde nly rolled e v e r does not succeed in regai ni ng his

legs Their vital p o w er is imme nse a nd nothi n g but a
.
,

b r ai n shot o r broke n spine w ill tu m b le the m over for

good o n the spot When shot in the heart they gene
.
 THE NAR B AD A V ALLE Y . 5 7

rally r u n some fifty yar d s and the n fall dead and I ,

much prefer to see an a n telop e go off thus w ith the ,

peculiar gait w ell k n o w n to experie n ce d shots as the

foreru n n er O f a spee d y diss olution tha n to see even the
,

prettiest somersaul t follo w the striki n g o f th e ball .

I n t he prese n t i n sta n ce I w atche d the a n telope

a lmost to the ve r ge o f the horizo n No w a n d then h e
.

slacke ne d his pace for a fe w seco n ds a n d looke d rou n d

,

a t his w ou n de d fla n ks a n d the n as if rememb e r i n g that

, ,

he ha d n o t yet put sufficient d ista n ce bet w ee n him and

the fatal spot he w oul d agai n start for ward w ith
,

r ene w ed e n ergy .The t wo does as is ge n erally th e

,

case w he n th e buck is w ou n ded had go n e off i n a dif

,

fer en t directio n ; a n d w ere n o w sta n di n g o n the plai n ,

a fe w hu nd r ed paces fr o m w here I stood ga z i ng w ist ,

fully fro m me to thei r w ou n de d lor d S u ch are th e .

s ce n es that touch th e heart of even th e hardes t deer

stalker a nd fo r a mome nt I almost wished my right

,

ha n d had bee n c u t o ff er e I p u lled trigge r o n this the

’
loveliest o f G od s c r eatures .

“
Whe n he d wi n dled b efore the n ake d eye till h e
seem ed as a black speck o n the far ho r i z o n I still con ,

tin ned to w atch him through my glass in th e hop e that ,

h e might lie do w n w he n h e thought himself concealed ,

i n w hich case I might steal in a nd e nd his tro u bles by

another shot . S udde nly I s a w him s w e r ve fr om his
cou r se and star t O ff in a n othe r di r ectio n at full speed
, .

A lmost at th e same i n sta n t a puff of smoke issued from

a small bush o n th e plai n— t he b uck staggered a nd fell ,

and ma n y seco n ds afte r wards th e faint repor t of a gun

, ,
”
shot reached my ears .

The perso n who cam e to my aid i n so timely a

fashio n w a s a native sportsman w hom I th en s a w fo r
,
68 T H E HIGHLAND S OF CEN T RA L INDIA .

the first time H e wa s more like th e p rofessio n al hunt er

.

Of the A merican back w oo d s than any other native o f

I ndia I have ever met H is s h ort trousers a nd hunting
.

shirt o f M b o w a green dis p l ayed sine w y limbs an d throat

o f a clear red bro w n little d arker tha n th e colo u r o f a
,

sun - burnt E uropea n A n upright carriage a nd light

.

s p ri ngy ste p marke d him o u t as a roamer o f th e forests

from youth up wards an d th e E nglish d ou ble - barrelled

gun an d w orkman like a p pointm e nts o f yello w s a mba r
,

leather looke d l ike th e genui n e s p ortsman I soo n found

,

him t o be Many a gloriou s d a y d id I after w ards p ass

.

with him in th e pursuit o f n obler gam e than black

bu cks .

Th e chi/ Ca r a or I nd ian g a z ell e fi is another antelo p e

,
f

very common in C entral I ndia I t is called often th e .

“ ”
ravi ne d eer by s p ortsmen ; a n d as regards the first ,

p art of the n ame is so far w ell d e n ote d I ts favourite

, .

hau n ts are the ba nks o f th e shallo w ravines that ofte n

i n tersec t the plain cou n try in t he n eighbourhoo d o f
rivers an d seam th e slopes o f th e high er e minence s
,

risi n g o u t o f the great ce ntral table - la nd These are .

ge n erally thi nly cloth e d w ith l o w th orny bushes o n the ,

you ng shoots a nd p o d s o f w hich it bro w ses l ike the

d omestic goat O f course it is w ron g t o cal l it a
.

”
d eer w hich term properly belongs only t o t he soli d
,

horne d Cer violce C o nsi d erably smaller than the black

.

antelope t he gazell e also di ffers mu ch from it in habits

, .

I t p r efe r s l o w j u n gle t o th e open p lain an d trusts mor e

t o its w atchfulness a n d activity than t o s p eed which , ,

ho w ever it als o p ossesses in a high d egree I t is very

, .

rare to catch a gazelle o r still more a herd o f them o ff

, ,

their gu ard ; a n d i t is surprisi n g ho w o n th e least ,

Ga z ell a Bem z et i i i .
70 T HE HIGHLAND S OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

disap p ear a n ce Un less they h ave bee n s ee n to go clean

.

aw ay they should al w ays b e follo w e d u p o n th e chan ce

,

o f b ei ng fou n d agai n .

Th e last o f t he a ntelo p es m e t w ith in the open

country is the Ni lg a efi th e m al e of w hich calle d a
f

“
blue bull w ill stan d ab out 1 3a ha nds high at the
,

shoul d er The fem ale is a good deal smaller and o f a

.
,

faw n colour Th eir habitat is o n th e lo w er hills that

.

border a nd i ntersect the p lai ns a n d also o n the plain s ,

th ems elves w herever grass a nd bushes afford s ufficien t

cov er The Ol d sites o f des erted villages a nd cultiva
.

tio n u n fortu n ately so common w hich are u sually

, ,

co v ered w ith lo n g grass a nd a l o w bushy gro wth o f

Pal a s and J uj u be t r e es fr are s eldom w ithout a herd o f
ni l a e
g . T h ey are n ever fou n d very far from cultivatio n ,

w hich they Visit regularly every n ight W hen littl e .

fire d at th e blue bull is very easily a pproached and

,

shot I t is very p oor eati ng a n d affords n o trophy

.
,

w orth t a ki ng a w ay so that it is n o t mu ch sought after

,

by the spo r tsman Th e begi n ner ho wever who i s

.
, ,

steady in g his nerves o r th e i nve ntor w ho w a nts a s ub

,

s t a n t i a l target fo r a n e w p roj ectile will fi nd them v ery ,

accessi b l e a nd conve n ient Th e b l ue b ull is a n a wk war d .

,

lumbering stupid brute ; and it is highly ludicrous t o

,

observe th e air o f self-satisfaction w ith w hich a block

head o f a bull who has allo w ed y o u t o w alk up withi n
,

fifty yards o f him w ill b lu nder o ff t o the oth er side o f a

,

n a l a the n t u r n rou n d a n d sta n d still w ithin easy ra n ge

,

of your r ifle a nd look as if h e thought himself a very

,

cleve r fello w i n deed fo r s o th oroughly out w itti ng you .

H e is a favourite quarry w ith the u n e nterprising

Ma ho m ed a n gentlema n The antelope his style of d res s .

P o r t a r p i ct u s .
I B u t ea f r o nd o s a Z i z g/p hu s J uj u ba
,
.
 TH E NAR B AD A V ALLE Y . 71

an d po w ers Of locomotion d o not allo w hi m to a p proach

th e rugge d grou n d a n d thor n y u n der wood prohibit his
succee d i n g w ith th e fores t d eer ; the tiger h e likes n o t
the l ook o f a n d the p ig he may n o t touch ; so he
,

gets him i n to a bullock - car t a n d is d ri ven w ithin a fe w ,

paces o f an unsuspec t i ng bl u e bull w hose carcase w he n , ,

shot a n d d u ly cut in the thro at after the rules o f his

faith m akes fo r him the beef w hich his soul loveth
,
.

A wk w ar d a n d i n active as h e looks ho w eve r the b lu e , ,

bull w hen fairly pushed to his s p eed w ill give a good

, ,

horse as mu ch as he can d o t o overhaul him I t is i n .

vai n t o a ttempt i t i n o r n ear th e j u ngle b u t if you can

s uccee d in getti ng at him when h e has a mile o r t wo t o
go across th e o p en plai n a real good run may b e had ,

w ith the s p ear I have n ever hear d o f a bl ue bull

.

attempti n g t o charge w he n brought to bay in w hich ,

respect therefore the sport o f ridi ng them is i n feri or to

, ,

pig -sticki ng .

S u ch are the pri n cipal a n imal s w hich form the

’
obj ects o f the sportsman s pu rsuit in the open country .

A s ho w eve r i n a state o f na t u r e there never are

, , ,

herbivorous creatures wi t hout t heir attenda n t carn ivora

to form a check a nd cou n terbala n ce t o them so w e fi nd ,

various natural e nemies attenda n t o n the herds of

a ntelope a nd n l lg a e w hose acquai ntance the sportsman
,

w ill occasio n ally make The ni lg a e is a favourite prey

.

o f the ti g er a n d the panther But it is i n the l o w hills .

w here he reti r es d ur in g the d a y rather t han in the ,

plai ns w h ere h e feeds at night that he meets these ,

rele ntless foes a nd the chief carnivorous creatures o f

if
the open cou ntry are the hu nti ng l eo pa r d the w o lff r ,

a n d the j a c ka l f
g
at F j u ba t a I C p a llip es I (7
”
. . . . . a u r eus .
72 T HE H IGH L A N D S OF CE N T R A L INDIA .

I have severa l times come across shot th e a nd

hunti ng l eopard w hen aft er antel o p e ; but they ca n no t

be called common in this part o f I n dia They live .

m ostly i n th e l o w isolate d rocky emi n ences called

,

To ma s that rise here and there like islets in the mi d dle

,

o f the plai n s an d o n the central plateau an d w hich are

, ,

freque ntly surrou nd e d by grassy p lai n s w here they hu n t

their prey They are o f a retiring an d inoffensive
.

d is p osition n ever comi n g near d welli ngs o r a t tacki ng

, ,

d om esticated a n imals l ike th e leo p ard an d p anther ;

,

an d I never heard o f their sho wing any s p ort wh en

pursue d Their manner o f catching the antelo p e by a
.
,

u nion o f cat - like stealth o f a pp roach an d unparalleled

velocity o f attack has ofte n been described A fe w are
, .

ke p t tame by the w ealthier n atives b ut more I think , , ,

for sho w than real u s e in hunti ng .

The com mon j ackal al w ays ready fo r food o f any

,

descriptio n seldom fails to make a meal o f any woun d ed

,

a ni m al a n d I have seen a smal l gang o f the m p urs u e a

,

w oun d ed antelo p e I ha d j ust fired at The fa w ns o f th e

.

antelo p e a nd gazelle freque ntly become their victims .

The w olf is extrem ely com mon i n the northern p arts

o f the provi n ce fr e q u enti n g the sam e sort o f g rou n d as
t he a ntelope a n d chik a r a I have very sel d om met with
.

them i n forest tracts ; and I think that in I n d ia they

are clearly a plain - lovi n g s p ecies They u n ite in parties
.

o f five o r six to hunt ; the latter bei ng the larges t

nu m b er I have ever seen together: More ge nerally
they are fou n d singly o r in couples I h a ve severa l .

times observed th em in the act o f hunting the antelope

th eir method bei ng to steal in o n all sides o f a detached
party o f does a n d fa wns and trust to a unite d rush to
,

capture o ne o r m ore o f them before they attai n their

 THE N A R BA D A V ALLE Y . 73

speed Fast as the w olf is (as y o u will learn if y o u try

.

to ride him do wn ) I do not believe he is ca p able o f

,

runni n g do w n a n antelo p e i n a fair hunt though ,

doubtless o l d o r i nj ured a nimals are thu s killed by

him Whe n game is n o t to b e had the w olf seldom
.
,

fails to get a meal in th e neighbourhood o f villages in ,

the shape o f a d o g o r a goat They are deadly foes t o

.

the former ; an d w ill stand outside a village o r the

’
traveller s camp at night a nd ho w l u ntil some ine x
,

er ie nc e d cu r sallies forth to reply w hen the l o t o f that

p ,

cur w ill probably be t o return no m ore U nfort u nately .

,

the w olf o f C entra l I ndia d oes not al ways confi ne

himself t o such s u bstitutes for legitimate game ; a nd
the loss o f huma n life fro m th ese hi d eous brute s h as
"

recently been ascertained t o be so great that a heavy

re ward is n o w offere d fo r their destructio n Thoug h .

n o t generally ve nturing beyon d childre n o f t e n o r

tw elve years o ld yet w hen confirmed in th e habit o f
, ,

m a n- eati ng th ey d o n o t hesitate t o a t tack at a n

, ,

a d vantage full -gro wn w omen and eve n a d ult men A

,
.

good m a ny i n stances occurred during the constr u ctio n

,

of th e rail w ay thro u gh the l o w j u ng les n orth o f

J u bbu lpur o f l abourers o n the w orks bei n g so attacke d
, ,

a nd sometimes kille d a nd eate n The attack wa s .

commo nly m a de by a pair o f w olves o ne o f w hich ,

s eized th e victi m by the neck from behi nd p reventi n g ,

outcry while the other comi ng s wiftly u p tore o u t th e

, , ,

e n trails i n front Thes e co nfirmed m a n-

. eaters are
d escribed as having been exceedingly w ary a nd fully ,

a ble to discrimi n ate bet w een a h el p less victi m a nd an

armed m a n .

My o wn ex p erience o f w olves d oes n o t recor d an

i nsta n ce o f th eir attacking a n adult huma n bei ng ; but
74 T HE HIGHLAND S OF CEN T R AL INDIA .

I have kn o w n many places where children w ere regularly

carried off by them S uperstitio n frequ e n tly preve nt s
.

the nati ves from protecti ng t hemsel ves o r retaliati ng o n

the brutes I w a s once marchi ng through a small
.

village o n th e b orders o f th e D amoh d istrict a nd ,

accide n tally heard that for m o nths past a pair of w olve s

had carrie d o ff a child every fe w days fr om th e centre o f ,

th e village and i n broa d d aylight N o a t tempt w hat .

ever ha d bee n made to kil l th em though their hau n ts ,

w ere perfectly w ell kno wn an d lay n o t a quarter o f a

,

mile from t he v illage A shapeless st o n e re p rese n ti n g

.

th e go d dess D ev i u n d er a neighb ouri ng tree had

, ,

i n stead b ee n daubed w ith vermilio n and liberally ,

propitiated w ith cocoa - nuts a n d rice ! Their plan o f

attack w a s u n iform and simpl e The v ill a ge stood o n
.

th e slop e o f a hill at the foot o f w hich r a n the bed o f a

,

stream thick ly fri nged w ith grass a n d bushes The .

m ai n street o f the v illage where children w ere al w ays

,

at play ran do wn th e slop e o f the hill ; a nd w hile o n e

,

o f the w olves w hich w a s smaller than th e other w ould

, ,

ensco nce its elf a mo ng some l o w bushes bet ween th e

vill age and the b ott om of the hill th e other w ould go ,

rou n d t o the top a n d w atching an opportu n ity race

, , ,

do wn through the street picki n g u p a child by the w a y

, ,

a n d m aki n g o ff w ith it to th e thick cover i n the n a l a .

A t first th e p eople u se d t o pursu e a n d s ometimes ma d e

,

t he marau der d r op his prey but as they sai d fi n ding

, ,

that i n th at case t he compa n io n w olf u sually su cceeded

i n c a rry i n g o ff a n other o f th e chi ldre n i n the confusion ,

w hile th e fi r st w a s usu ally so i nj ured as t o b e beyond r e

c o v er
, y they e n ded ,
l ike phlegmatic H i n d u s as they w ere ,

by j ust letti n g them take as m any o f thei r offspri ng as

they w a nted A n infa n t of a fe w yea r s o l d had thus been
 TH E NAR B AD A VALLE Y . 75

carrie d o ff the morni n g o f my arrival I t is scarcely .

credible that I coul d n o t at first ob tain sufficie n t hea t er s

to d rive the cover w here these t wo atrocious brutes w ere
gorgi n g o n their u n holy m eal A t last a fe w o f t he
.

outcaste helots w ho act as v illage drudges in those p arts

w ere i n duce d t o take sticks and accompa ny my horse
kee p er w ith a h og - spear and my S ikh orderly w ith his
,

s w ord through th e belt o f grass w hile I p osted myself

, ,

behi n d a tree w ith a d ou b le rifle at the other e nd I n .

about five m i n utes the p air w alked leis u rely o u t into an

o pe n space w ithi n t w e n ty paces o f me They w ere .

evide ntly m other and s o n ; the latt er about three

quarters g r o wn w ith a red d ish -yello w w ell -fu rred coat
, ,

a n d plump appeara n ce the mo t her a lea n and grizzled

hag w ith hideous p e n dent dugs and slaver d ro pp i ng
, ,

from her disgusti ng j a ws I gav e h er the b ene fit o f the

.

first barrel a nd d r opped her w ith a shot through both

,

her shoulders The w help started o ff but the second

.
,

barrel arrested him also w ith a bullet in the n eck ; an d

I w atched w ith satisfactio n th e str uggles o f the m othe r
till my m a n came u p with the ho g -spear w hich I ,

d efil e d by fi n ishi ng her I n the cover they had c o m e

.

through my m e n said that th eir lairs i n the grass w e r e

,

nume r ous a n d filled w it h fragme n ts o f bo n es ; s o tha t

,

there w a s little d oubt that th e brutes thus so ha p pily

dispos ed o f had lo n g been perfec t ly at hom e in the
,

n eighb ourhood o f these miserable superstitious v illagers .

D ogs that are in th e w a y o f h u n ti n g j ackals w ill

readily pursu e a w olf so lo n g as h e ru ns aw ay Bu t
, .

the w olf ge n erally tries the effect o f his bared teet h

o n his pursuers b efore ru nn i n g very far a n d o nly th e ,

m ost resolute hou n ds can be b r ought t o face them .

I have several times had m y dogs chased back clos e

76 T HE HIGHLA ND S OF CE N T RAL INDIA .

u p to my h ors e by a w olf they ha d encou n tere d w hen

o ut coursi ng foxes an d j ackals ; a n d only once s a w
the d ogs get t he better o f o n e w ithou t assista n ce fro m
the gun O n that occ a s i on I ha d o u t a cou p le o f
.

young greyh ou n d s crosse d bet wee n the d eerhoun d an d

,

the R amp e re bre e d ; an d alo ng w ith them w a s a very

l arge an d p o w erful E nglish bull -
mastiff rej oicing in the ,

“
n ame o f Tinker w hose ex c ee dingly p lebeian l ooks
,

i n no w a y belied his n ame H e w a s an o ld han d at

.

fighti ng before ever he left th e p urlieus o f his native

Manchest er ; a n d in I n d ia had bee n v ictor in m any
a b l oody tussle w ith j ack a l j ungle cat and pariah , ,

d og . H is massive hea d an d well -arme d j a w s combined

in a high degre e th e q u alities o f a batteri ng - ram and
heavy artillery ; a nd his courage wa s in full propor
tion t o his m ea ns o f o ffence O n the p rese n t occasion
.

the three d ogs es pie d the e n e m y sitti ng coolly o n his

hau nches o n the to p o f a risi n g ground an d th e you ng ,

d ogs taki n g him no d oubt for a j ackal w ent at hi m

, ,

full s p ee d Tinker as usual l umberi ng along i n the

,

rear S oo n ho w ever the h ounds returned in a p anic

.
, , ,

w ith their tails w ell do wn and closely p ursu ed by the

,

w olf a large d ark -

, gray fello w s n ap p i ng an d snarli ng
,

at their heels The greyh ounds fled past Tinker who

.
,

stea d ily advanced d ro p pi ng into the crouchi n g sort

,

o f ru n h e al ways ado p te d in his attack N o d oubt .

Master Wolf th ought h e t o o w oul d turn from his

glea m i ng ro ws o f t eeth and erected hair a s all his ,

cani n e assailants had d o n e before Bu t he n ever wa s .

more mistaken fo r the game o ld d o g as soon as a p ace

, ,

or t w o o n ly remai n ed bet wixt him and th e enemy ,

su dd enly s p rang t o his full height and w ith a boun d , , ,

buried his b ull et h ead in his adva n ci ng chest I s a w .

78 T HE HIGHLA NDS OF CEN TR AL IND I A .

with rolli ng tra p b oulders b oth sorts o f cou ntry

,

being equ ally p r o d u ctive o f da ngero u s cro p pers Th e .

n eighbourh ood o f N a gp u r affords the best grou n d ; a n d

“ ”
there th ere is a regular te n t club w hich gives a ,

good a cco u n t of n u merous h ogs in th e co u rse o f th e

year Th e sport h as bee n s o volumi n ously describe d
.

t hat I be l ieve n othi n g remai n s to be said about it .

The hogs that reside in the ope n p lai n s are no t mu ch

infe r io r in size t o th os e of other parts of I n dia ; but
t hose met w ith i n th e hills are ge n e r ally much smaller ,

a nd far m ore active A bro w n-coloured variety has

.

so m etimes been n oticed a mo ng th em The comm o n .

vill a ge pig o f th e cou n t r y sho w s every sig n of havi n g

bee n derived from the w il d race origi n ally .

My m arch d o w n the N ar b ad a valley led alo n g th e

tortu ou s a n d rugge d cart track through th e deep b lack
,

loam o f the surrou n d i n g fields w hic h b efore the

, ,

co n st ru ctio n o f th e rail w ay wa s the o nly m eans o f

,

c o m m u n icatio n through these fertile districts Broke n .

carts stre w ed th e roadsi d e a n d clu mps o f th or ny acacias

,

“
overgre w the path Th ese w ere j ustly called the cotto n
.

thief by th e peopl e their bra n ches b ei ng l ade n w ith

,

bu n ches of the fibre dear t o Ma n ch ester torn by their ,

thorns from th e u n pressed bales as they lumbered along

,

o n a n tediluvian buffalo carts t o w ards th e dista n t coast .

L arge gangs o f a b origi nal G o nds fro m the nearer

hill tracts w ere labouri ng o n t he r a il w ay w orks The .

really w ild tribes of the i nterior o f th e hills w ere n o t

yet att r acted by the l abour market in the plains ,

preferri n g a di nn er o f j u ngl e herbs and th eir squalid

freedo m to ple n ty ear n e d by steady toil u nd er the
eye o f the foreign t askmaste r But the semi —
. H in du
tribes of the border -lan d w ho are n o w th e most
,
 THE NAR B AD A V ALLEY . 79

n umerous o f the race a n d whom long co n tact w ith

,

the people o f the p lains ha s imbued w ith w a nts and

te n dencies strange to their w ilder brethre n have rea p ed ,

a rich harvest from t his su dden dema n d for labour

a risi n g at their doors H o w far it has bee n to them
.

a n u n mixed ad v antage w il l be discusse d fu r t h er o n .

A s labourers their innate distaste t o steady toil bor n

, ,

o f lo n g years o f a semi - n omadi c existe n ce re n ders th e m

,

i nferior to th e regula r Mar a th a n avvy o f th e D ecca n ,

w ho is a lso th eir su p erior i n muscular po w er a n d c a n ,

double the w ages o f any G o n d at this sort of w ork .

O n th e 2 5 t h o f January I quitted the mai n road do w n

the valley n ear th e little civil statio n o f Na rs ing pl i r
’

, ,

a nd struck o ff n early at right a ngl es to th e south ,

marchi n g direct for the hills that bou n ded the horizo n
i n that di r ectio n A b out hal f-
. wa y through th e march
o f fifteen miles the l ev el deep black soil o f th e valley
,

b ega n to give p l ace to a r e d g r avelly trac t o f u n dulati ng

’
c o nfo r matio n a n d n ume r ous fi n e ll /
t e l net t r ees formi n g
I
,

grou ps that at a littl e distan ce mu ch resembled oaks ,

an d half- clear ed fields gave i ndicatio n s o f the approach

,

o f the border bel t of half- reclaime d la n d w hich i nt en

Ve es bet ee the open plai n
n w n a n d o r -
the f est covered
hills. The Mho w a (Ba ss ico la t if o li ca) is o ne o f th e
most useful w ild trees i n this part o f I n dia I t is .

n o t cu t do w n like othe r fo rest t r ees i n cleari ng th e

lan d for tillage its valu e be ing at fi r st greater than
,

t hat o f the area re n dered u np r oductive by its sha d e

a n d roots . A s the cou n t ry gets m ore thickly peo p led ,

ho w ever the cas e is reverse d a n d i t ge n erally dis

, ,

a p p ears i n l o ng - s ettl ed t r acts A s a si ngul a r i n sta n ce

.

o f the i n flue nce s om e t imes exerted b social customs

y
o n th e physical character o f a country I may mention ,
80 T HE HIGHL ANDS OF CEN T R A L INDIA .

an exce p tio n t o this rule in th e c a se of th e d istric t

o f N im a r w hich even i n its fully cultivate d p arts
, , ,

is still thickly dotte d w ith Mho w a trees The reaso n .

o f this I b elieve
“
t o be that duri ng th e,
times o f
troubl e referred to in my first ch apter the m aj ority ,

o f th e small p ro p rietors o f th e lan d w ere ouste d from

p ossessio n o f their fields ; but the custom h avi ng been

establishe d that p ossession o f th e fruit - trees gro w ing
on it d i d not n ecessarily p ass w ith th e land they ,

mostly retai n ed the proprietorshi p o f th ese trees Thu s .

it has ha pp en e d th at the l an d is often o wned by o n e

party a nd the trees by another Th e rent is p aid only
.

by the lan d holder ; a n d thus th ough it w oul d p ay

,

him t o cl ear o ff th e trees it w ould not pay th e tree

,

man a n d s o they have remained doubtless to the very ,

great adva nt a ge an d certai nly to the beauty o f th e

, ,

district .

The value o f the M bo wa co nsists i n th e fleshy

corolla o f its fl o w er a nd in its see d s The flo w er is
, .

highly d eci d u ou s ri p ening and falli ng in th e m onths

,

o f March an d A pril I t p ossesses considerable sub

.

stan ce a nd a s weet but sickly taste a nd smell

, It .

is a favourite articl e o f foo d w ith all the w ild tribes ,

an d the lo w er classes o f H in d u s ; but its mai n use is

in th e distillation o f ar d e n t s p irits m ost o f w hat i s ,

consum ed b ei ng m a d e from Mho wa The spirit when .

,

w ell ma d e and m ello w e d by age is by no means o f ,

d es p icabl e qu ality resembli ng in som e degree I rish

,

whisky . The lusciou s fl o w ers are n o less a favourite

food of the brute creatio n than o f man E very .

-
vegetable eati ng animal an d bird incessantly endeavours
to fill itself w ith Mho wa d uring its flo w eri n g season .

S a mbar ni lg a e and bears appear to lose their natural

, ,
 TH E NAR B AD A V ALLE Y . 81

ap p rehe n sions of d an ger in som e degree duri ng the

Mho w a season ; a n d the most favou r able cha n ces o f
shooti n g them are then obtai ned The trees have t o .

be w atched night a n d day if the c r O p is to be save d ;

a n d the w ilder races who fear neither w ild b east n o r
,

evil spirit are ge n erally e ngaged to do this for a

,

w age o f o n e — half the p ro d uce The yiel d o f fl o wers

.

fr om a si ngle tree is about 1 30 lbs w o r th five shilli ngs .

,

in th e mar ket ; a n d the n uts w hich for m in bu n ches

,

after th e d roppi n g o f the flo w ers yield a t hic k o il , ,

m uc h resembli n g tallo w i n appeara n ce a n d p r o perties .

I t is used for burn i n g for th e ma n ufact u re o f soap

, ,

and in adulterati ng the clarified bu t ter s o largely c o n

su med by all n atives A dema n d for it has lately
.

spru ng up in the Bombay m arke t ; and a good deal

has bee n exporte d si nce the op e n i ng o f the r ail w ay .

The supply must be imme n se ; a nd pr obably this n e w

dema n d w ill b e the mea n s o f greatly i n creasi ng the
valu e o f the t r ees .

I e n ca m ped at the e n d o f this march at a place

called M ohp a ni the sce n e o f the w o r ks o f the N er
,
“

budda C oal a n d I ro n C ompa n y M ost of the m i n ers

.
”

empl oy e d at that time w ere G o nds w hose courage ,

i n divi n g i n to the b o w els o f the eart h w a s fou n d to

be supe r ior to that o f other races The u niversal .

pa ntheism o f th e G o n d stan ds him in good stea d o n

such occasio n s F r om his cradle he has looked o n
.

every rock stream a n d cavern as te n anted by its

, ,

peculiar spirit w hom it is o nly n eedfu l t o propitiate

,

in a simple fashion to make all safe S o h e j ust .

touches w ith vermilio n th e rock h e is about to b lo w

into a thousa n d fragme n ts w ith a keg of po w der ,

lays before it a ha n dful o f rice a nd a n utshell full

82 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

o f Mh o w a spirit a n d lo ! the go d o f the coal mine

,
—
is sufficie n tly satisfied t o permit his simple w orshipper
to he w a w ay as h e pleases at hi s resi d e n ce I f utility .

is as some h ave thought a good qual ity in religions

, , ,

surel y w e h ave i t i n perfection i n a pliable belief like

this .

N ear Moh p a ni is o ne o f th e b est s nipe j hec ls i n the

provi n ce I w e n t o u t to it in th e after n oon w ith o n e
.

o f the ge n tleme n co nnected w ith the w o r ks w h o su r ely ,

n ever could have s ee n a snipe before We took opposite

.

s ides o f t h e lo n g s w amp w hich s w armed w ith the l o n g

,

bills ; a n d w he n w e met at the e nd I had got t w e nty

s eve n a n d a half couples w hil e m y fr ie n d had collected
—
,

a miscellan eous bag o f s nippets plovers paddy birds , , ,

a n d m in ors a n d n o t o ne s n ip e amo n g th em
,
.

My n ext m arch lay u n der th e n orthern face o f th e

mai n ran ge o f the S a t pura s w hich here form a blu ff
f
,

hea d lan d risi n g s o me 5 0 0 feet ab ove the plai n cro wn ed ,

by an o ld fortress cal le d Cha o r a g a r h This is o ne o f

.

the m an y exte n sive fortificatio n s co n st r ucte d by th e

chiefs o f the cou n t r y to the south of th e N arbad a at the ,

time w he n the resistless tide o f Ma h o m e d a n conqu est ,

after e ngulfi n g the H i n d u ki ngdo m s o f upper I n dia

a n d the D ecca n ,
w a s rolli n g a gai n st the p r i n cipalities
of these ce ntral regions .The w o r ks o f these forts
ge n erally e n close a co n siderabl e space o n the su mmit
of a naturally i naccessible hill h avi n g b ee n designed
,

for th e retreat o f large bodies o f the i nhabitan ts a n d ,

of ar mies i n tim es o f successful i n vasio n Th e flat

, .

topped a n d scarp -sided hills o f the trap formation are

th e mos t suitable for such stro ngholds a nd there are ,

co n sequ e ntly more o f them i n the trap cou ntry than

else where S uch additio nal w orks as are necessary are
.
 TH E NAR B AD A V ALLEY . 83

c om p osed o f m assive blocks o f rock ro u ghly squared ,

an d laid w ith out masonry I nside tanks h ave ge n e r ally

.

bee n excavated in the rock to hold a p le ntiful su pp ly

o f w ater natu ral h ollo w s bei n g al w ays taken a d va ntage
,

of t o avoid lab o u r as mu ch as possible B efore th e .

days of artillery s u c h places m ust have p ossessed great

stre ngth ; b ut w e rarely hear o f their b ei ng vigorously
defe n ded by their p oss essors a n d they w ere ge n erally
,

surre n dered after a shor t i n vestment D oubtl ess th e .

chief cause wa s u sually w an t o f provisio n s masses o f ,

peopl e b ei ng s udde n ly hu ddled into the place a nd ,

bei n g u n able to ca r r y w ith the m th e scan ty p rove n der

afforded by a poor cou ntry in the face o f da nger I n .

1 5 6 4 the great A kbe r se n t his lieute n a n t t o reduce

the G o n d chieftai n o f M a n dl a The G rind troops led
.
,

by the he r oic D ur g a wa t i th e Raj p u t w ido w o f the

’

last chief made a n obl e resistan ce to the i n vader n ear

,

J u b bu l pur ; b ut th e battl e at last goi n g agai n st th em

, ,

thei r leader stabbed herself rather th an suffer the dis

g r ace o f d efeat ; a n d this fort of Cha o r a g a r h immediately
after wa r ds fel l i nto the h an d s o f the Moslem together ,

w ith prope r ty a n d t r easure valu ed i n the chronicles at

an altogether fa b ulo us am ou n t The sum m its o f th ese
.

old fo r ts u sually co n tain a little w ater i n the old tan ks

a nd b ei n g ge n e r ally covered w ith thick j u n gle a r e
favou r ite resorts o f the tiger an d other a n imals in the
h o t w eathe r .

From my camp at Cha o lpa ni a si ngle p eak o f the

’

P u ehmu r r e e hills w a s visible I t had not a very

.

imposi n g a p peara n c e h o w ever as I find it recorded

, ,

“
a s l ike half a n egg sticking o u t o f a n immense egg
cu p ! A coupl e o f bears came close up t o the camp
at n ight and comm e n ce d t o fight making a fearful ,

o 2
84 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL IND IA .

noise it seeme d t o m e as I a woke insid e the tent

, , ,

ropes The horses w ere teari n g at their pickets a nd

.
,

all the camp i n a hubbub I started o u t w ith a gun

.
,

b ut the people sai d they h ad j ust passed through the

camp rolli ng over each other a n d gro wli ng ; an d it
,

w a s so pi t ch dark that I could n o t see a ny d istance

before me a n d had to com e back Th e n ext march
, .

w a s fourtee n miles to J hilp a the l a st Village b efore

,

the ascent o f the hills begi n s The vie w o f P u ehm u rr ee

.

w a s lost duri n g this march fro m o u r bei n g too close

u n der th e i nterve ni n g ra n ge o f hills O n the w a y I .

shot a you n g S a mbar stag a n d after ar r ivi ng in camp

a messe nger fr o m the village I had left i n the morn i n g
came in b reathless t o say tha t a t ige r h ad killed a
bullock i n the m or ni ng w ithi n half a mile of my
camp A t that time o f year whe n the j u n gle is very
. ,

gree n and thick a n d tigers al w ays on the move it

, ,

w a s n o t w orth w hile t o go b ack even if I had had th e,

tim e.

This day s march w a s throug h a much more j u n gly

’

cou n try tha n I had yet met I t could not be called.

a forest for th e trees w ere all o f the seco n dary gro w th ,

w hich m arks land repeatedly cleared a n d aba n doned

agai n ; a n d th e cultivatio n such as it w a s w a s still
, ,

carrie d o n w ith the regular bullock -plough aft er t he ,

mann er o f th e plai n s I n ma ny places there w a s a

.

thick gro w th of teak p oles from o l d stu m p s o f trees ;

a n d ma n y of the fields had bee n he w n out o f these

coppices the poles being b ur n t o n the grou n d as man ure

, ,

in the ma n n er to be h ereafter d esc r ibed The clea r .

a n d pretty st r eam o f the D e nw a w hich comes do w n ,

from P u e hm u r r ee w a s crosse d seve r a l times by th e

,

t r ack w e fo llo w ed a nd co n tai n ed o n its sa n dy ba nks

,
 CH A PT E R II I .

TH E M AH AD E o H I LL S .

IN the eyes o f the H in du i nhabita nts o f th e neigh

he uri n g plains th e w hole o f th e ra n ge o f hills w hich
,

culminated in th e P u ehm u rr ee plateau is sacre d to their

d eity S i v a calle d M a h a deo o r the G reat Go d ; a nd the
, ,

hills themselves are called by his n ame the Ma ha d e o s , .

A co n ce p tio n o f a we and mystery had al w ays been

associated w ith the ir lofty p eaks embosomed amo n g,

w hich lies o n e of the most sacre d shrines o f the go d ,

to w hich at least o n e p ilgrimage w a s a necessity in the

li fe o f every devout H i n d u B ut excepti ng at the
.

appoi n ted season fo r this pilgrimage no d w eller o f t he ,

plains w ould ve n ture at th e tim e o f w hich I am w riti n g

, ,

to set his foot o n the h oly soil o f Ma ha d e o s hills ; a n d ’

as w e a pp roached its n eighb ourhood gloomy looks ,

b egan t o gather o n the faces o f my follo w ers w hose ,

fears had bee n acte d o n by the co n versation o f th e

p eople they had met Th e road t o the top w a s r epr e
.

sented as impassable from n atural difficulties ; and

gu a r ded by w il d beasts goblins a nd fell disease
, ,
.

I halted a day at J hilpa the last Village o n the

,

p lains to m ake arra ngeme nts fo r the asce n t an d

, ,

p rocure guides a n d o n the 2 2 nd packed my small tent

 TH E MAH AD E o HI LLS .
87

and a fe w n ecessaries o n a po ny an d w ith t wo atten

,

dants started u p th e hill o n foot Fo r the first t en .

miles o r so the path way led up an easy a nd regular

ascent over shelvi n g rocks a n d sca n ty soil w hereo n ,

gre w a thi n forest o f th e commo n er sorts of trees S a lei ,

A
C MP A I P UCH M UR R E E
‘'

. B UDDH I S T CA V E S IN TH E B A CKGR O UND .

(Bos we llia Ma r ya mt ) D h a o r a ( Cono cc wp u s la t zf o li a )

/

,
’

(
a n d S a j P en t a
p t e r oa
g la bm
) bei n g,
the most n umerous
s pecies ; th e grass a n d vegetatio n o n these slopes had

begu n already to assum e the yello w ti nge o f the dry

'

season S uch a prospect a s this w hich is typical o f

.
,

vast tracts in the j u ngles o f C e n tral I ndia is sadly ,

disa pp oi n ting to him w ho looks for the luxuriant

88 T HE HIGHLAND S OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

t ropical forest o f l o w -
lyi n g equ atorial regio n s Forests .

like those of S outhern A frica a n d th e littoral cou nt r ies

of A sia w ith th eir close array o f gia n t tru nks de n s e
, ,

ca n opy o f vegetatio n impe n etrable u nder wood gorgeous

, ,

flo w e r s a nd mighty tan gled c reepe r s

,

F rom b a ch t b a ch cl se w ea hs
r n o r n o r t of b d age th
on ro w n i g .

are u nk n o wn in these ce n tral regions o f I n di a ; a nd

th eir character is rarely approached save i n some
occasio n al l o w m oist valley whe r e th e axe o f the ,

w oodcutter has n o t pe n et r ated a n d the stag n ation o f ,

some stream has u n ited w ith the heat o f a close valley

i n givi ng t o th e vegetation a more t r uly tropical
character I n deed but fo r the prepo n dera n ce o f yello w s
.
,

w here rich r eds a n d bro w n s should be a n d the rare ,

appeara n ce o f a pal m o r other eastern fo r m most o f ,

these l o w fo r est t r acts might b e t ake n after D ecember

for a late autum n sce n e i n a tempe r ate cli m ate N othing .

is mo r e striki ng than the abse n ce o f brilliant flo w ers ,

wh ich co ntrary to popular idea are far m o r e characteristic

, ,

of temperate than o f t r o p ical regio n s The Pal a s (Bu te a .

s u er ba
p ) is almost the o n ly tree i n o u r forests w hich

possesses really bright col ouri ng .

When a n el evati o n o f ab out feet (ab ove the

sea) h a d bee n attai n ed the character o f the s ce n ery
,

bega n to ch a nge V ertical scarps of the red sa n dstone

.

w hich form s the higher p l ateau bega n to rise i nto vie w

at every tur n o f the path w hich n o w plu nged i n t o,

n arro w a nd gloo m y gle n s follo w i n g the b oulder -

, stre w n
bed of a small st r eam The dried a n d yello w grasses
.

and n aked t r ee stem s o f the l o wer s lo p e gave place to

a gree n vegetatio n thickly coveri ng the soil a n d in ,

p laces almost meeti n g overh ead The m oist banks o f .

90 T HE HIGHLANDS OF C E N T RAL INDIA .

th e setti n g s u n against th e p urple background o f a

clou d - ban k Th e centre o n e o f the three r ight ahead
.
,

of us w a s the p eak o f Ma h a deo deep i n the b o w els o f

, ,

w hic h lies the shrine o f the god himself ; t o the left like ,

the bastion o f som e gian t s hol d rose the s qu are and

’

abrupt for m o f Cha u r a d e o ; w hile to the right a nd ,

furthe r o ff than the others fro wn ed the sheer scar p

,

o f D hi i a r h the high est poi n t of these C e n tral I n dian

’

pg ,

highlands .

I Ve had little leisure to e nj oy this sple ndid Vi e w ,

ho w ever for a blindi ng rai n accompa n ied by th u n de r

, ,

an d light n i ng n o w came o n ; and some dista n ce still

,

i nte r vene d fr om th e village w he n w e w ere compelled

to seek shelter i n a grove o f t r ees Fortu n ately th ere .

w a s amo n g them a la r ge hollo w b a nya n tree w ithi n ,

w hich w e all fou n d shelter i n cludi n g Q u ail

,
and
”
“
S n ipe who I forgot to say w ere o f the party an d had
, ,

revelle d in spur fo w l all the w a y up .

I se n t o n th e t w o guides to th e Village to procure

us som e fire w ood a n d w ater ; for I determi n e d to en
camp here rather than go furth er a n d probably fare
, ,
’

w orse amo n g the u n kno wn d isagreea b les o f a Kork i r

,

village A s wam p y h ollo w l ay b et wixt us and th e

.

vill a ge and after w e heard the guides go splashing

,

through this and d isappear i n the d ark ness it w a s

full t w o hours before w e heard the m fl ou n deri ng back
a gai n w it h three o r four Kork u s carryi ng bundles o f

sticks grass pots o f w ater and the various natural

, , ,

productio n s w hich have al ways to b e procured from

th e v illage w here cam p is pitch ed Mean w hile w e .

sat in o u r tree a n d smoked a n d very cold and dis ,

agreeable it wa s t hough tolerably dry ,

With the .

h elp of the Kork u s the little te nt w a s s oo n pitched ,

 TH E MAH AD E o HILLS . 91

a nd I tra nsferre d m yself and d ogs to its shelte r w hile ,

a fire wa s lit i n the hollo w o f the ba n yan a nd the ,

natives w ere soon crouchi ng over it a s j olly as sand

boys ; w hile my serva nt plucked and grille d over its
embers o n e o f the spur fo w l I had shot as a s p a t ch
”
cock . A bout mi d night the rai n ceased and the sky ,

cleared I t w a s an excessively cold night ; a n d w hen

.

I g o t u p shiveri ng in the morn i n g I fou n d my men

had staye d u p the greater pa r t o f th e n ight b y th e
fire fo r the sake of the w armth .

The morn i n g b r oke fi n e a n d bright ho wever a n d , ,

I started o ff for a rambl e over th e p lateau I n p assi ng .

through th e s w am p belo w the te n t the dogs put u p , ,

and I shot several couples of s n ipe a n d amo ng the m ,

if
a fi ne specime n of the solitary o r w ood s nip e This .

fi n e s nipe is o f rare occurre n ce i n C e ntral I ndia a n d i n ,

fact I have o nly m e t with it o n o ne other occasio n ,

i n the Ma n dl a dist r ict I suspect this is the bir d that

.

has stood for th e w oo d cock in the stories tol d o f t he

’
latter s occurr e n ce i n the C e ntral Provi n ces for though
I have hu nted every likely spot i n the hills for the
latter bird I never foun d a si ngle o n e o f them
, .

There w ere t wo small settleme n ts o f Kork u s o n

the p lateau : o n e at P u ehm u rr e e itself a n d anoth er ,

about a mile t o the north o f it Th e former wa s the

.

larger o f the t wo co nsisti ng o f about thirty houses

, ,

a n d besides the Th a k u r a fe w families o f traders fro m

, ,

the plains l ived i n it Th e fu n ctions exercised by these

.

H ind u dealers i n th e rural eco n omy o f the aborigines

w ill form the subj ect o f some remarks further o n .

A brother o f the Th ak u r o f P u ehm u r r e e aecom

p a ni e d me in my ramble a fine
,
athletic intellige
,
n t ,

nemo r z co l a
’

Ga ll i na g o .
92 T HE HIGHLAND S OF C EN T RAL INDIA .

you n g fello w o f eighteen or t we n ty a nd a n a r de n t ,

spo r tsman w ho w a s after w ar d s my guide over the

,

w hol e o f this w o nderful mass of mou n tai n s We w ere .

o u t n ea r ly all day th e successio n o f fi n e vie w s from

,

the d iffere nt h eights a n d blu ff s luri n g me o n a nd o n ,

till w hat w a s mea n t fo r a str oll e n ded in a pretty hard

’
day s w ork .

I fou n d that the plateau had somethi n g of a cup - like

S hape d r aini ng i n every directio n from t he edges i n to
,

t he centre w he r e t wo considerable brooks receive its

,

w aters a n d car r y them ove r the edge i n fi ne cascades .

The general elevatio n o f this ce n t r al valley is about

feet th e ridge surrou n di n g it bei ng a fe w hu n dred
,

feet higher a nd here a n d there sho o ti ng i nto ab r up t

,

p eaks of w hich the th r ee I had seen the eve n i ng b efore

,

attai n a height o f feet Th e a r ea of the plateau

.

i s altoge t he r abou t t w el ve squ a r e m iles some six o f ,

w hich i n the ce n t r e resemble the portion I had before

, ,

passed through a n d co n sist o f fi n e cu ltura b le though

, ,

light soils E ve ry w he r e the m assive g r oups o f trees

,
.

a nd park -like sce nery st r ike th e eye a n d the gree n ery

o f the glades a n d vari o u s w ild flo w ers u n see n at lo w er
,

e l evatio n s mai ntai n the illusio n that th e scene is a bit

,

ou t of o ur o wn tem p erate z o n e rather than o f th e

tropics Though th e a sce n t o n the side I had come u p
.

wa s ge n erally gradual I fo u n d that i n all other dirce

,

tio n s the d r op fr o m the plateau w a s su dde n and p re

c i it o u s
p Th ere
. are t hree other path w a ys by w hich
a ma n c a n easily a n d an u nlade n a nimal w ith di ffi culty
, ,

a sce n d a nd d esce n d S u b sequently w e took lightly

.

lade n elep ha n ts (whic h w he n th ere is r o o m for them

, ,

are the most su r e - fo oted of all creatures ) up a n d do wn

b o t h of th e passes leadi ng to the south b ut the easter n
94 T HE HIGHL A N D S OF CEN T R A L INDI A .

in it occasioned by the M a h a de o group O n this side .

,

th e fo rest that clothes the valley a n d th e nearer slo p es

p r ese n ts a very d ark gree n an d yet brillia nt colouri ng ,

w hich w ill be n ote d as diffe r i ng from the v egetation in

any other di r ectio n This is the S a l fo rest w hich I
.
,

have m e n tio n ed befo r e (p as formi ng s o si ngular

.

a n o utlie r far to th e w est o f the li n e w hich other w ise

limits the ran ge o f th at tree i n C e n tral I n dia I t fills .

this valley of the D e n w a al m ost to the exclusio n o f

,

othe r vegetatio n a nd c r eepi n g u p the ravi n es h as

, , ,

occupie d also the south -easte r n po r tio n o f the plate a u

.

itself
.

A remarkable feature i n th e co nfiguration of the

plateau is the vast a n d u n expected ravi n es or rath e r
clefts in the s olid rock w hich s ca m the e d ges o f th e
,

scar p some of them reachi n g i n sh ee r desce n t almost t o

,

the l evel o f the plai n s Yo u come o n the m duri ng a

.

r amble in almost a n directio n ope n i n g su dde n ly at your

y ,

feet in th e middle o f som e grassy gla d e The m ost .

remarkable is the A n deh -K o h which begi ns about a ,

mile to the east o f th e village and ru n s right do wn ,

int o th e D enw a v a lley L ooki ng over its edge the

.
,

Visi o n loses itself i n the vast profu ndity A fe w dark .

i n digo -coloure d specks at the bottom re prese n t w ild

mango trees o f sixty o r eighty feet i n height A faint .

s ou n d o f ru nning w ate r rises o n the sough o f the wi nd

from t he a b yss The o nly s ig n o f life is a n occasional
.

flight o f blu e pigeo ns s wi ngi n g o u t from the face o f

eith er cliff a nd circli ng rou n d o n suspe nded pi nio n
, ,

agai n to disappear u n der the crags I f a g u n is fi r ed .

,

the ech oes roll rou n d th e hollo w i n conti nually

i ncreasi ng co nfu sio n till the accumulated volum e seems
,

to bello w forth at the m outh o f the ravine into the plai n

 TH E MAH AD E o HILLS . 95

belo w I f traditio n be believed n o mortal foot ha s ever

.
,

trodden the dark i n terior o f the A n deh - Koh I myself .

n ever fou n d a n e n t r a n ce t o it though w ith the aid of , ,

r opes,
I got o n ce at th e easiest place w ith in a fe w
hu n dre d feet o f the b ottom I m a y say h o w ever for
.
, ,

the be n e fi t o f adve nturous explo r ers that a w a y in may ,

p r obably be fo u n d by goi n g r ou n d behi n d the M a h a deo

peak a n d follo wi ng do wn the bed o f the st r eam w hich
,

i s sues from the cave o f th e shri n e I am ab out to

desc r ibe a n d w hich I thi nk eve ntually falls i nto the
, , ,

K o h u n der the scarp o f Cha u r a deo .

L ege n d has made th e A n deh -K o h th e retreat o f a

mo n st r ou s se r pe nt w hich fo r mally i nhabited a lake o n
,

the p lateau a n d vexed the w orshippers o f M ah a deo till

,
’
the g o d d r ie d up the serpe nt s lake a nd impriso n ed the ,

s n ake himself i n this rift formed b y a strok e o f his

,

trident in the solid rock I t needs n o very i nge nious

.

i nterpreter of lege n d to see in this w ild story a n allusio n

to the forme r settleme n ts o f B u ddhists (r eferred to as
s n akes i n Brahmi n ical w riti n gs ) o n the P u ehm u r r e e hill ,

a n d their exti n ctio n o n th e revival o f Brahma n is m in

the S ixth o r seve nth ce n tury C e r tai n it is that there

.

once w a s a co n siderable lake i n th e ce n tre o f th e

plateau formed b y a dam thro w n across a narro w gorge
, ,

a n d that o n its b a n ks a r e still fou n d n u mbers of the

l arge flat b r icks u sed in a ncie n t buildi ngs w hile in the ,

overha ngi ng rocks a r e cut five caves (wh ence th e n ame

o f P u e hm u rr ee
) o f the character u sually attributed t o
,

the B u ddhists Beneat h t he lo wer e n d o f the lake lies a

.

c onsiderable stretch o f almost level land o n w hich are ,

s t ill traceabl e the signs o f a n cie n t tillage i n the fo r m ,

o f emba n kme n ts a nd w ater - courses L ooki ng fro m the .

p ortico of the rock - cut caves it is n o t d ifficult for the

,
96 TH E HIGHLANDS OF CENT RAL I NDIA .

im a g i n atio n to travel back to th e ti m e w he n the lo w er

m a r gi n o f th e lake w a s sur r ou nded by th e d w elli ngs o f
a small perhaps a n exiled a n d persecut ed colo ny o f
, ,

B u ddhists practisi ng for thei r su b siste nce the a r t

, ,

str a nge in these w ilds o f civilised cultivation of the

,

earth a nd t o hear agai n the sou n d of the eve n i ng bell

,

i n their little m o nastery floati ng a w ay u p the placid

surface o f th e wi ndi n g lake .

A n other very striki ng ravi n e called Jambo - D wi p

, ,

lies o n th e o p posite side o f the plateau fr om the A ndeh

K o h A bou t a thousan d feet of st eep desce n t d o w n a
.
,
,

t r ack w orn by the feet o f pilgrims leads to the e n t r a n ce,

of a g o r ge w hos e aspect is si ngula r ly ad a pted to impress

,

the im a gi n atio n of the pilgrim t o these sac r e d hills A .

de n se ca nopy of the w ild mango t r ee o verlaid and ,

-
i nte r laced b y the t r ee like limbs of t he gia n t c r e ep e r fif

al mos t shuts o u t th e s u n ; stra n ge shapes of tree ferns

a n d thickets o f da n k a n d rotti n g vegetatio n cumber the

path a chalybeate stream covered b y a film of metallic

,

scum redde n s the oo z e through w hich it slo wly p er

,

co l a t es ; a gloom like t wilight shrouds the bottom o f

th e valley from o u t o f w hich rises o n either ha n d a
,

to w e r i ng crag o f deep red colour from the su mmit of ,

w hich stretch th e ghostly arms of the w hite a n d naked

S t er c u li a u r ens a tree that looks as if the megatherium
,

might have clim b ed its u n co u th a nd ghastly b ran ch es at

the b irth o f the w orld Further o n the go r ge n arro w s
.
,

to a m ere cleft bet wee n th e high cliffs w h o lly d estitute ,

of vegetatio n an d stre w n w ith great boulde r s C limbi ng

,
.

over thes e a nd w adi ng th r ou gh the w ate r s o f a shallo w

,

stream the pilg r im at le ngth r eaches a cave r n i n the

,

rock the S ides a n d bottom of w hich have bee n by some

, ,

Ba nh i m a
'

s c a n d ens
98 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CE NT RAL IND IA .

by a nimals s a ve a few m elancholy bears and its steep

, ,

precipices a n d lo ng sl opes of g r ay a nd n aked rock

, ,

i nte r spe r se d w ith sca nty moo r -like vegetatio n are ,

si ngular ly s u ggestive o f a compa r ison w ith th e w ell

k n o w n valley o f G lencoe .

Th es e d eep a nd gloomy d ells that seam the Pueh

m urree block are the home of a sple n did squi r rel (S c i u r u s
m a x imu s ) m easuri n g t w o a n d a half to th r ee feet i n
,

l e ngth a n d o f a rich deep claret colour w ith a bl u e

, , ,

metallic lust r e o n th e u ppe r par ts of th e body the lo w e r ,

parts b ei n g rufo u s yello w They d well in t he u pper

.

bran ches of the w ild ma ngo trees m aki ng n es ts of th e

,

leaves ge n e r ally in the ve r y top They live chiefly o n

,
.

the m a ngo fr uit lavishly squa n deri ng the supply w hile

,

the fr esh ma ngoes a r e attai n able a n d afte r w a r ds crack

,

i ng the disca r ded sto n es for their ker n els They seem .

to b e of a reti r ed a n d melan ch oly n ature approp r iate t o

,

the su n l ess ravi n es they resi d e i n ; a nd th ey are n o t

very n umerou s either he r e o r at A marka n tak w h i ch is ,

the o nly other part o f the hill s where I have met t he

species They are easily captured in the n ests w hen
.

you ng b ut make m ost foolish a n d u ni n teresti n g pets

, ,

havi ng a si ngularly vaca nt exp r essi o n o f cou n te n a n ce ,

a nd n othi n g o f the lig h t -

hear t ed vivacity of the other
mem b e r s of th e squirrel family I f a n exquisite fur fo r
.

’
a lady s muff o r a spor r a n is a n obj ect some pretty ,

S hooti n g m ay be had in k nocki n g the m o ff the tops

o f the high trees w ith a small rifle N u merous vultures
.

a n d b i r ds o f th e rapacious order build o n th e le d ges o f

the cliffs A mo ng them is th e gra n d imperial eagle (A

. .

imp er ia lis ) w h ose w i n gs m easure eight feet fr om tip

,

to tip a nd w hose soari ng flight a nd har sh sc r eam forms a

,

g r and featu r e in the sce n e r y of this ra nge of m ou n tai n s .

 TH E MAH AD E o HILLS . 99

On my retur n to the te n t I had a n i ntervie w wit h

the Th a k u r o r chief of P u e hm u r r e e This pote ntate
, , .

is the p r o prietor of a co n sidera b le t r act of hill a nd

forest i n the M a h a deo ra nge a n d the vall eys at its ,

base H e is the r ep r ese ntative of o n e o f the families

.

already referred to as havi ng b ee n established in the

early days o f A rya n colo n is a tio n by a n i nte r mixture ,

o f th e blood o f th e adve n tu r ous Raj p u t w i t h th a t o f

the abo r igi n al (in this case Ko rk u ) occupa n ts o f the

soil. I n perso n al appearan ce a n d habits the family
exactly c o rresp o n d to thei r desce nt Taller a n d faire r .

b y far tha n the u n dilute d Kork u s ab out them they ,

still possess the thick lips a n d promi n e nt j a w o f the

a b origi n es . With all the love o f ti n sel a n d sou n di ng
form o f th e vai n Raj p u t they u nite m uch o f the apathy
,

a n d u n th r ift of the sav a ge I n religio n they are (like

.

all c o n ve r ts ) u lt r a H i n d u w o r shippi n g S i v a looki ng

, ,

o n th e slaughter o f a c o w w ith ho rro r (though they

w ill k ill t he n ea r ly related b iso n of thei r hills ) w e a ri ng ,

w -
the holy th r ead of the t ice b o r n castes a n d keepi ng ,

a family B r ah m a n to do the ir household w o r ship fo r

them The P u ehmu r r e e Th a k u r wa s a w ell -
. gro wn you ng
ma n o f about t w e n ty -
fi v e b ut a w k w ard i n m a nn er a n d
,

i n capab l e o f a ny so r t of co n v ersatio n I subsequ e ntly .

fou n d that he w a s like m ost o f thes e petty chiefs

, ,

a confirmed opium -eater By his S ide ho w ever sto o d

.
, ,
”
the B r ahman D e w a n o r m i nister o f state (l) w h o se
“
, ,

gli b n ess o f to n gue w a s fully sufficie nt fo r both Behi n d .

them cam e four o r five ta t t e r demalio n retai ners i n ,

quilted gar me nts of man y hues gi r ded as to their loi n s ,

w ith broad emb r oidered b elts of S a mbar l eather i n ,

w hich w e r e stuck o r suspe n ded s w o r d s dagge r s a n d

, , , ,

the cumbrous appoi ntme n ts o f a m atchlock - m a n t he ,

1 00 T HE HIGHLANDS OF C E N TR AL INDIA .

matchlock itse l f b ei n g bor ne with sm oki n g match over

, ,

the shoulde r o f each These w e r e m ostly o f the same

.

breed as the Th a k u r bei ng his poor relatio n s in fact

, .

T his d escriptio n w ould serve sufficie n tly w ell for the

great m aj o r ity o f these petty se m i - aboriginal chiefs ,

w ho are so nume r ous i n th e hills of C e n tral I n dia .

Though th e breed bet w ee n th e Raj p u t and th e ab origi n e

produces the best o f all shik a r i s a n d foresters in a
’

some w hat higher sphe r e they are chiefly remarkabl e

for de b au ch ery a nd a vai n a n d silly pri d e w hich l eads
,

them i n to expe n ditu r e beyo n d thei r m ea n s an d rui n ou s ,

debt They all call themselves Raj a s a n d keep u p

.
“
,
”

m i nute sta n di n g armies o f these r a g a mu ffi n retai ners ,

as w ell as o n e o r t wo Brahm a n bloodsu ckers to m anage

their holy a n d clerkly affai r s A s they are al w ays
.

seeki n g fo r brides for their so n s i n families w ith higher

cl aims to Raj p u t desce n t than their o w n th ey have to ,

pay e n o r mous sums for marriage expe n ses an d this is ,

probably th e chief cau se o f th eir ge n erally h opeless

poverty .

I fou nd I w a s likely to have a good d eal o f trouble

in getti n g th e w ild hill p eople to h elp i n b uildi ng o u r
lo dge The Th a k u r made all sorts of excuses fo r w ith
.

“ ”
holdi n g fro m u s his i n fl u e n ce w ith his subj ects There .

wa s g r eat scarcity amo n g them o w i n g t o a failure o f their

,

precar iou s crops th ey had n early all left the hills t o

s eek service in the plai n s ; they w ere e ngaged i n p re p ari n g

t he la n d for thei r crops ; they hated w ork they had n o t

b ee n accustomed to ; th ey w oul d be afr a id to help in
maki n g a house on Ma ha d eo s hill— a n d so o n Truth
’
.

w a s I s a w the chief himself a n d his advisers hate d o u r

,

i ntrusio n With some t r uth they fear ed w e w ere com e

.

to break u p their much - bel oved seclusio n a n d u n ,

1 02 T HE HIGHLANDS OF C E NT RAL INDIA .

is a little soil a n d a p lentiful gro w th o f grass timbe r

, , ,

a n d bamboos . H e prefers a place w he r e you ng strai g ht

teak poles gro w t hic k and st r o n g as they a r e easiest ,

to c u t a n d p r oduce mos t ashes w he n bur n t H e cu ts

, .

eve r y stick that sta nds o n the selecte d plot except ,

the largest trunks w hich he l ops of their b r a n ches

,

a nd gi r d les so that they may shortly die This he .

does ea r ly i n the d ry seaso n (Ja n uary t o March ) a nd ,

leaves th e timber thickly piled o n the grou n d t o d ry

in the t o rrid s u n o f the h ot se a so n By the e n d of .

May it w ill be j ust like ti n der and h e the n sets fi re,

to it a nd bur n s i t a s n e a r ly as he c a n t o ashes With .

all his labour h o w eve r (a nd h e w o r ks hard at thi s

,

sp a smodic sor t o f toil ) h e w ill n o t b e a b le to w ork

,

all the l o gs i n t o positio n t o get bu r n t ; a n d at the e nd

of a w eek he w ill rest fr om his l a b ou r a n d co n te m plate ,

w it h sa t isfactio n the three o r fo u r acres o f valua b le

teak fo r est h e has reduced to a h eap o f ashes st r e wn ,

w ith th e charre d remai n s of the l arge r l imbs a n d t r u nks .

H e n o w rakes his ashes eve nly over th e field a nd w aits

for rai n w hich i n du e seaso n gene r ally comes
,
He .

the n takes a fe w ha ndfuls of th e coars e g r ai n h e subsists

o n a nd fli ngs them i n to the ashes b r oadcast if th e ,

g r ou nd he t o le r ably level ; if stee p the n i n a li n e ,

at the top so as t o b e w ashe d do wn b y the r ai n

, .

The pri n cipal g r ai n s a r e K o do n (P a sp a lw n ) K u tki ,

a n i c u m ) a n d coa r se rice B ut n ea r ly all the o r di n ary

( P ,
.

c r ops r aised i n the plai n s duri ng the autum n seaso n

are a lso g r o wn more or less i n these cwm clea r
i ngs as they a r e called though u sually fr om greatly
, ,

dege n e r ate seed the p r odu ce of which is oft e n scarcely

,

r e c o g n isa b le as the s ame species A fe w pu m pki n s a n d

.

cre e pi ng bea n s a r e usually gro w n ab out the houses i n

 TH E MAH ADE O HILLS . 1 03

additio n t o the dhy a cro p S uch is the fer t ilisi n g

.

po w er o f th e ashes that the crop is ge n e r ally a very

productive o n e tho u g h the i ndividu al g r ai ns are fa r
,

smaller than the same species as cultivated in th e

plains A fe n ce agai n st w ild a nimals is made rou n d
.

the cleari n g by cutti n g trees so as t o fall over a n d

i nterlace w ith each other the w hole b eirig stro ngly
,

bou n d w ith split b ambo o s a n d thorny bushes The .

seco n d year th e dead trees and half-bu r nt b r a n ches a r e

again ig n ited a n d fresh w ood is cut and b r o ught from
,

th e adj oi ni ng j u n gle a n d th e sam e process is repeated

,
.

The third year th e cleari ng is usually aba n do n ed for

a fresh o n e S ometimes th e o w ner o f a dhy a w il l
.

w atch at n ight o n a platform i n the mid d le o f the

field a n d e n deavou r t o save it fr om wild a nimals b ut ,

ofte n e r h e does n o t thi nk i t w orth the labour a nd l ets ,

it take its cha n ce till ripe w hile he ear ns his liveliho o d

,

i n s o me o the r w a y .

T he d hy a clea r i ngs a r e o f co u r se fa vo u r ite resort s

for all the a n imals of the n eighbou r hood The smalle r .

species o f these — peafo w l partridges hares e t c — a r e

, , ,

“
ofte n t r apped i n i nge nious deadfall traps set i n
ru ns left ope n o n p u r pose a nd the larger are fr eque ntly
shot b y the sportsme n o f the commu n ity N one o f .

the G o nds of the C e n tral H ills n o w use the b o w a nd

ar r o w ; b ut fe w v illages a r e w ithout thei r pr o fessio n al
hu nter w ho is ge n erally a capital shot w ith his l o n g
,

heavy m atchlock a n d as patie n t as a c a t i n w atchi ng

,

for game H e u sually takes it i n tur n to sit u p a t

.

n ight i n all th e d hy a clea r i n gs o f the village getti n g ,

as remu n eratio n all that he kills an d a basket o f ,

g r ain at harvest time b esides Th e ski ns of s a mb a r

.

are o f co n siderable value in t he market for maki ng

1 04 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

the w ell - k n o w n soft yello w leath er — th e best o f a ll

materials for sporti n g leggi ngs a nd othe r accoutreme nts .

Th e a b a n do n e d dhy a cl eari ngs are speedily covered

agai n with j u ngle Th e second gro w t h is ho wever
.
, ,

very d i ff erent from the virgin forest destroyed by the

first clear i ng ; bei n g composed o f a variety o f l o w a n d
very de n sely - gro w i n g bamb oo a n d o f certai n t hor ny
,

bushes w hich together form i n a year o r t w o a cover

,

almost impe n etrabl e to man or beast t

I have often .

bee n o bliged t o turn back from such a j u ngle after

vai nly e n deavouri n g to force through it a po w erful
elephan t accustomed to w o r k his w a y th r ough difficult .

cover I n such a thicket n o tim b er tree c a n ever fo r ce

.

its w a y i nt o daylight ; a nd a second g r o wth of timber

o n such la n d c a n n ever b e expected if left to n ature The .

scrub itself does n o t fu r n ish fuel e n ough fo r a sufficie n t

coati ng of ashes to please the d hy a cutter ; a nd so th e
latter n ever agai n retu r n s to a n o l d clearing w hil e
u n tou che d fo r est l an d is to b e ha d No w if it b e .
,

considered that for u n told ages the a b origi nal i n

, ,

habitants have bee n thus devastati n g the forests the ,

cause of the p roblem tha t has pu zz led rail w ay e n gi n eers

—n ame l y wh in a co u n t r y w ith so vast a n expa n se
,y ,

o f forest - covered la n d they should yet have to send

,

to E ngla n d o r A ustralia or N o r way for their sleepers

, ,

w ill n o t be far t o seek S ta n d o n a ny hill -to p o n the

.

P u e hm u r r e e o r other high ra nge a n d look over the ,

valleys b el o w you — th e dhy a cleari n gs c a n be easily

disti nguished from tree j u ngle — a n d yo u w ill see that
for o n e ac r e left of th e latte r thousands have bee n ,

levelled by the axe of the G o nd a n d K ork u I n fact I .

c a n say fr om a n experie n ce reachi ng over eve r y teak

,

tract in these b ill s that excepti ng a fe w p reserved by

, ,
 TH E MAH AD E o HILLS . 1 05

private pro p rietors no teak fo r est e ver escaped this

,

t reatme n t u nless s o situated in ravi nes or o n precipitous

,

-
hill sides as t o make it u nprofitable to m ake dhy a
cleari n gs o n its site .

Th e s y stem of cultivatio n thu s adopted by the w ild

tribes w hich seems to be a n atural co nsequ e n ce of thei r
,

w a n t of agricultu r al stock n ecessitates a mo r e o r less

,

n omadic habit o f life Th e la r ger villages w he r e the

.
,

chief o f a sep t a n d the H i n d u trade r s w ho effect their

,

small excha n ges reside is usually the o nly stable settle

, ,

me nt in a w h ol e tract ; th e rest of the people sp r eadi ng

themselves about i n small h amlets o f five o r six families ,

at such i n terva l s as w ill give each a s ufficie n t ran ge o f

j u n gl e for s everal years of dhy a cu t ti n g Their huts .

are o f the most temporary character and made from ,

materials fou n d o n the spot — a fe w upright posts inter ,

laced w ith split bamboos plastered w ith mud and , ,

thatche d w ith the broad leaves o f the teak a nd a n ,

upper layer of g r ass I t costs them b ut the w ork o f a

.

day o r t w o to shift such a s ettlem e n t as this i n a o

c or d a n c e w ith the c h a n ges o f their dh a sites
y .

The syste m o f cultivation if it can be s o termed I

, ,

have thus descri b ed is of cou r se of the m ost precarious

character The holdi ng o ff o f rai n fo r a fe w w eeks afte r
.

the see d is so w n o r w he n th e ear is formi n g w ill rui n

, ,

t he w hole a nd then the o w n e r may be c o mpelled t o

,

subsist e n tirely o n w hat al w ays largely supplem e nts

—
his diet the w ild fr uits a n d products of the forest .

N ature has bee n very b o u nt if ul in these forests in he r

su p ply of food for their w ild huma n de ni z e n s Ma ny .

species o f tree a nd bush ripe n a w holesom e a n d palatable

fruit in their s eason ; a n d the earth suppleme n ts the
su p ply by man y n ou r ishi n g roots The Mho wa flo w e r.
1 06 T HE HI GH LAND S OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

before refe r r e d to (p the plum o f the ebo ny tree

.

(D i os g
p /r os m e l a n o x lo n
y ) a n d th ,
e fruit of the w ild
ma n g o a r e th e staples i n these hills The berries o f
, .

the Chir o nj i (B u c ha n a ni a l a t ifo lia ) a nd the Bér (Z iz y,

p in ts
j ju u ba
) the seeds
, o f the S a l ( S ha r e d r o bu s t a
) the ,

b ea n of the gia nt Bauhi n ia cree p er a nd m a ny o the r ,

p roducts o f trees are also eate n in d ifl e r e nt parts o f the

,
f

hills A species o f w ild ar r o wroot (Ca r c zu na ) and a

.
,

sort o f w ild yam are also dug o u t o f the eart h and

,

co n su med .

The r are occurre n ce of the ge n eral seedi ng of the

b amboo forests is a godse n d to the aborigi nal tribes
,
.

A certai n n umbe r o f bamboos seed every yea r but a ,

ge n e r a l seedi n g is said t o occur o nly o n ce in ab out

thi r ty years The n eve r y si n gle b a mboo over a vast
.

tract of cou nt r y w ill dro p its leaves a n d fo r m at the ,

e nd a la r ge pa n icle o f fl o w e r s t o be follo w ed by the ,

formatio n a n d sheddi n g o f m yriads o f seeds w hich are

ha r dly to b e disti nguished fr o m gr a i ns o f rice This .

done th e pare n t bamboo itself immediately dies while

, ,

a fr esh and vigorous cr op at o n ce b egi n s to sp r i ng fr o m

t he seed F o r s o me yea r s the sca r city o f so usefu l a n
.

a rticle as the b amboo may b e se v e r ely fel t thoug h it is ,

n o t o fte n that all the sou r ces of supply are at o n ce

cut o ff ; but i n the mea n time a n ab u nda n t su pply of

w h olesome g r ai n is affo r ded n o t o n ly to the w ild t r ibes
,

but t o multitudes of t he p oo r e r i nha b itan ts o f the op e n

cou nt r y a n d the ci t ies arou n d w ho cro w d to the spot
, ,

to o b t a i n their share of the heave n - sent p r ove n der .

The r e is a p r ove r b that this occurre n ce po r te nds a

fa ilu r e o f the commo n food staples o f t he co u ntry ;
b ut like ma ny such it has n o t b ee n ve r ified b y ex
e r ie n c e I t w ould probably b e i vai n t o guess th e
p . n
 1 08 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

carriers who are in the habit o f p e n etrati ng th e remotes t

,

t racts o f these hills w ith loads o f salt a n d taki n g back ,

forest produce in retur n .

I n the m ea n time I got up th e remai n der o f my

camp pitche d the large tent a n d erected a hut o f
, ,

w attle and d aub as a storehouse for th e grai n a n d t ools ,

a n d made myself comfortable A t the sam e time I .

arra n ged for a fe w a r t ifi c ers carpe n ters a n d masons , , ,

bei ng sent u p from the p lains ; b ut it w a s l o ng before

a n
y o f them coul d be i n duce d to v e n ture i n to th e
dreaded region Though the geological surveyor o f the
.

N arba d a valley had give n n o hope o f limesto n e bei n g

fou n d in th ese hills I d iscovered a n excelle n t su p ply o f,

it in o n e of th e deep gle ns a little belo w t he scarp o f the

p lat eau A fter sea r chi ng lo n g a n d wea r ily fo r it in vain
.
,

a n d receivi n g on all ha n ds assura n ces that such a thi ng

ha d n eve r been heard o f I w a s directe d to th e place b y ,

a Kork u w h om I i n cide ntally s a w in th e u nw o nt ed o c c u

p a t i o n of ch e wi n g p a wn i n the compositio n o f w hich lime ,

has a place I fou n d a h u ge block of pure w hite crystal

.

line limesto n e j amm ed in the bott o m of this ravi n e ; and

it is curiou s to co nj ectu r e by w hat fort u n ate geological
process this imm ens e boulder o f a n article without which
rea d y f ny a d ve n tu e n d f d au ntl e ss c u age “ i th the ai d o f
or a r ,
a o o r .
r

thei s p len d i d d gs they d n t sc u p le t attac k nd s p ea the w il d

r o o o r o a r

b the b ea n d eve n the tige ; n d they

e a r, r, a at all ti mes a d en t r a a re r

a nd i n d efatiga b le s p ts m e n E ach i md a as thei cam p s

or . calle d c ,
r a re ,

is c m m n d e d b y a chief calle d the n il w h m all b ey n d w ho i n

o a a s, o o ,
a ,

c u n cil w ith the el d e s d is p ses f i n te t i b al ffe n d e s eve n t o the

o r ,
o o r r o r ,

exte n t f ca p ital p u n ish m en t it is b elieve d The l d m n n d m a n y

o ,
. o e a

o f the w m e n o n d chil d e n ae m ai n e n ca m p e d at s me fav u ite

r r o o r

g a z i ng s p t d u i ng the ex p e d i ti n s w he e ll etu n t p ass the

r o r o ,
r a r r o

rai ny seas n nd ec uit thei cattle Th ugh e m i ne n t i n the t n d

o a r r r . o a r a

p actice f high w ay bb e y the B nj a a

r o ro sc u p ul usly faithful i n
r ,
a r s a re r o

the executi n f t usts nd c nsta ntly e m p l ye d i n the i nte change

o o r ,
a a re o o r

o f c m m d ities b et w ee n the
o o p e n c u n t y nd the f est t acts o o r a or r .
 TH E MAH ADE O HILLS . 1 09

buildi ng w ould be impossible a t P u ehmu r r e e could have ,

bee n brought and so co n ve nie ntly deposited at an

e levatio n o f at l east feet above the n earest
for m ati o n o f the ki nd Though I b elieve I have at o ne
.

tim e or othe r bee n in almost eve r y other ravi n e i n these

bill s I n eve r fou n d a n other piece o f limesto n e but o ne
,

— a smalle r b oulde r o f the sam e sort similarly situated , ,

but at a rath e r lo w er elevatio n .

The you ng Th a k u r came back in a day or t wo w ith ,

a bout half -a -do z e n Kork u s from the n eighbouri ng hills ,

a n d n e w s o f a herd of biso n i n the B a nga n g a V alley

’

.
,

behi n d a n d b elo w the high peak o f D hupg a rh ; so I

d etermi n ed t o h ave o u r gra n d hunt i n that place .

I n vitatio n s w ere se n t to all the G o n d a nd Ko r k u c hiefs

i n the n eighb o urh ood w ith th eir follo w ers and every
, ,

a vailable m a n i n the hills w a s se n t for to beat A store .

o f grai n e n ough to feed them all w a s se n t do w n to the

little hamlet at t he bottom o f the R o rig ha t pass w here ,

the he a t w a s expected to e nd ; a n d o n e o f the P uch

mu r ree g r og -shops w a s take n bodily do w n to the same
p lace to supply the d r i nkables .

I n after d ays I spe n t man y a lo ng day in the chase

o f the biso n o n these sple n did hills and h ave also made
the acquai ntan ce o f the m ountai n bull i n ma ny other
parts o f th e provi nce S ome accou n t o f his habits m a y
.
,

t he r efo r e n o t b e out o f place here particularly as they

, ,

are fr eque n tly a good deal mis r ep r ese n ted A nd firs t .

as to his n ame Th e latest scie n tific n am e fo r him is

.

Ga m ma Ga u r u s but w hat he s to b e called in E nglish

,
i

is n o t so easily settled S portsme n have u nan imously

.

agreed t o call him the I ndian biso n w hich n aturalists

“
,

o bj ect to as he does n o t properly belo n g to the same

,

rou p o f b ovi n es as the bisons o f E uro p e an d A merica

g .
1 10 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL IN D IA .

They w ould h ave u s call him the Ga u r w hich appears ,

to be his ver n acular name in the N epal ese fo r ests I .

w ould ho w ever put i n a plea for the rete n tio n

, , by ,

”
“
spo r tsmen at least of th e n ame I ndian Biso n
, In .

t he first place it fully accomplishes the obj ect of all

na mes i n disti n ctly de n oti ng th e a n imal mea n t E ver .

si n ce he became k n o w n t o E uropea n s he has bee n s o

calle d a nd n o oth er a n imal has eve r shared the n ame
, .

The n his st r u ctu r al disti n cti o n fr om the tru e biso n ti n e

grou p appea r s t o co n sist chiefly if n o t s o lely in his , ,

havi ng thirtee n i n stead of fo u r te e n o r fift ee n pairs o f

ri b s a nd s ome w h at flatte n ed i nstead o f cyli n drical horn s
,

( Jerdo n
) L astly
. there ,
is n o ve r n acular n ame u n i

v e r s a ll applica ble t o him G aur b ei n g u nk n o w n i n

y ,

C e n t r al I ndia w hile his occasi o n al C e nt r al I n dian n a me

of Bhi n s a (w ith Bu n o r w ild prefixed to it ) is a lmost
i de n tical in sou n d w ith biso n a n d is n o doubt d e r ived
,

“ ”
fr om the same root I f you ask for biso n in thes e
.

fo r ests w here he is k n o w n (a n d speak a littl e through

your n ose at the same time ) y o u w ill certai nly b e sho w n
,

Ga va z u s Ga mma a nd no othe r an imal .

The r espective ra nges o f this a n imal a n d the w ild

b uffalo (Bu ba lu s ) h ave someti mes bee n de fi ned by
s portsmen i n th e sayi ng that the bison is n o t found
n o r th n o r the buffal o s outh o f the N arb a d a river
, ,
L ike .

most apo p hthegms h o w ever this contai ns little more

, ,

than a flavour o f t he t r uth N ot o n ly d oes the biso n

.

i n habit many parts o f the V ind hy a Mou ntai n s d irectly ,

t o th e n o r th o f the N a r b a d a but he also stretches rou n d

,

the sou r ce o f that river a nd pe n et r ates i nto the hills o f

h -
C ot a N a gpu r a n d M id n ap u r a nd crosses over to the
,
.

N epalese Te r ae a n d th e hilly regio n s in the east o f

,

Be ngal The wild buffal o a lso cove r s the w hole of th e

.
 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T R AL INDIA .

i n lyi ng u n der trees seem m o r e th e concealment thus

afforded to their large a n d dark -coloured bodies than
shelte r fr om th e s u n as the shade is seldom de n se a n d
, ,

a secure w indy position is al w ays sec u r ed irrespective o f

the s u n I have o b served that si ngle a nimals al ways lie

.

l ooki ng do w n w i nd leavi ng the u p w i n d di r ectio n to be

,

guarde d by t heir ke e n se n se o f smell ; a nd i n my ,

ex p e r ie n ce it is fa r easier to baffle their s e n se o f Vision

,

i n a di r ect approach tha n to stalk them do w n w ind

, ,

ho w eve r carefully the a pproach m ay be cove r ed I t is .

ext r ao r di n ary ho w difficult it ofte n is t o disti nguish so

stro n gly coloured a n obj ect as a bull bison w hen thu s
lyi n g do wn in the flickeri ng shado w o f a tree .

The colour of the co w s is a light chest n ut bro wn in

th e cold w eather becomi ng darker as the seaso n
,

adva n ces Th e you ng b ulls are a deeper ti nt o f the

.

same colou r b ecomi ng ho w ever m uch darker as they

, , ,

adva n ce i n age the mature bull b ei n g almost black o n

,

the back a n d sides a nd sh o w i ng a rich chest n ut shade

,

o nly o n the lo w er p arts o f the body a nd i nside o f the

thighs Th e colour of both bulls a nd co w s varies a good
.

deal in di ffere n t l ocalities The lightest coloured are

.

those o f th e ope n grass j u n gles in the w est th e darkest ,

th ose o f the deep b amboo forests o f P u ehm u rr e e a nd the

e ast. Th e w hite stocki ngs w hich are so cha r acte r istic a
,

marki n g o f this s pecies als o cha nge w it h advanci n g age

, ,

assumi ng a much dingier colour i n the o l d bulls A .

si n gular chan ge also occurs in the gro wth of the h orns ,

w hich w il l b e w ell illustrated by the accom anying

p
plate o f a photographed series belo ngi ng t o bulls o f
differe nt ages shot i n the same locality (N im a r) N o 1 . .

b elonged to a you n g ch est n ut - col o ured hu ll of a b out five

years old I ts shape it will be see n a pp roximates to
.
, ,
 TH E MAHAD E O HILLS . 1 13

that o f the co w s (N o bei n g like them sl ender a nd

.
, ,

much recurve d at the poi n ts N o 2 pertai n e d to a . .

very dark but n o t black bull evide ntly a year o r t wo

, , ,

older tha n the fi r st but n o t quite mature The horns

, .

have co n siderably i n creased i n girth at th e base and ,

have assumed a more out ward s weep w ith less inc u rva ,

ture at the poi nts No 3 are still thicker a n d mo r e

. .

horizo ntal w it h some sig n s o f w ear at the tips a nd

, ,

were taken fro m a fu ll - g r o wn j et - black bull the lord o f , ,

a herd No 4 adorn ed a very o l d a n d solitary b ull

. .
,

and are it w ill be see n extremely rugged a nd massive

, , ,

w ith sca r cely a ny curve and are co n siderably w orn a n d

,

blu nted at the points They measure thirty- . seven and

a hal f inches across the s weep and sevent ee n rou n d the ,

thickes t part N o 8 are the lo ngest round the cu r ve o f

. .

the h o r n each meas uri ng t w e nty -

, fi v e a nd a half i n ches ,

the extreme girth bei n g o n ly fifteen and a half i n ches .

The largest o f these b ulls measured exactly seve nteen

a nd a quarter hands (five feet n i n e i n ches ) at the
s houlder ,
measuri ng fairly the r ight li n e b et wee n t wo
pegs held i n the line o f the fore - leg I o n ce measured a .

bull i n the P u ehmu rr ee hills w hich w a s t w o i n ches

taller tha n this an d I am convinced that this is abo u t
,

the extreme heigh t attai ned by them i n this part o f

I n dia
. I stro ngly suspec t that the muc h g r eater
heights often given have bee n take n fr om u nfair
measureme n ts A commo n w a y is to take a n oblique
.

li n e from the forefoot to the top o f the dorsal ridge and ,

follo w the curvatures o f the body besides I n this wa y .

t wenty - t w o ha n ds may do u btless be made o u t but w e ,

might as w el l measure the distance fro m nos e to tail fo r

t he height as this .

A t this season o f the year (the w inter months ) the ,

1 14 T HE HIGHLANDS OF C E N T RAL I NDI A .

biso n a r e rutti n g an d they w ill b e fou nd collected in

,

her d s n umberi n g t e n o r t welve co ws w ith o n e bull in ,

the prime of life a n d a fe w imm atu r e males the r e

, ,

mai ni n g o l d bulls bei ng expell ed to w a n d er i n pairs or ,

as solitary bachelors i n sulle n a nd disappoi nted m ood

, .

V ery o l d bulls w ith w orn hor n s are alm ost al w ays fou n d
alo n e n ever ap p arently rej oi n i n g th e herd after bei ng
, , ,

o n ce beaten by a you n ger rival These solitary ge ntle .

m e n w a n der ab out a great d eal ; w hile the her d if ,

u n disturbed w ill co nsta ntly b e fou n d in th e same

,

n eighb ourhood E ach h erd appears to possess a tract o f

.

cou n try tabooe d t o othe r herds a n d i n this are al w ays

i n cluded mo r e than o n e stro nghold w here the d e nsity ,

o f the cove r r e n ders p ursuit o f them hopeless When .

frequ e ntly distu r bed in a nd ab out o n e o f these they ,

make off at o n ce to o n e of the oth ers .

A s th e h ot seaso n adva n ces a n d th e s p ri n gs in the

,

higher ra nges dry u p the biso n com e l o w er do wn th e

,

hills ; and m ay eve n if compelled b y w ant of w ater

, ,

come o u t i nto th e fo r est o n the p l ai n s dri nki ng fr om ,

the large rivers like other a nimals at that seaso n B ut .

they a r e al ways ready to retreat to th eir m ountai n

fast n esses w hen much d isturbed a nd as s oon as th e fall
of the rai n s has re n e wed the supply of w ater and ,

freshe n ed the grass in the higher hills they reti r e agai n ,

to their favourite plateaux A t this seaso n the co w s

.

b egi n t o calve a n d separate a good deal remai ning for

, ,

t w o or three mo n ths seclu d ed i n som e s p ot w here

graz ing a n d w ater a r e plentiful The bulls a n d yo u ng .

co ws are then ofte n fou n d together in herds o f six to

t e n the old est bulls ho w ever al ways re m ai ni n g al one
, , ,
.

D uri ng th e lulls in the mo n soo n a s p ecies o f g a d fly ,

a pp ears in the j u n gles w hich is exceedi ngly troublesom e

,
 116 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CE NT RAL IN D IA .

t o all an imals A t such times th e bison seek th e high

.
,

open tops o f th e mou n tai n s ; a n d I h ave the n see n a

s olitary bull stan d i n g for hours like a statu e o n the top
o f th e highest peak i n the P u e hm u r r e e range .

Tho u g h at first sight a clumsy looki n g animal w hich ,

is chi efly due to his imme n sely mass i ve dorsal ridg e the ,

biso n is one o f th e best rock cl im b e r s am o n g animals .

H is short legs a n d small gam e -

, ,
like hoofs the e n orm ous
,

pow er o f the muscles o f the shoulder w ith their high ,

d orsal attach me n t an d the preponderance of w eight in

,

the fore part of th e b ody all emi n e n tly qu alify him for
,

the ascent o f steep a n d rocky hills F o r ra pid descent

.
,

h o w ever they are n o t s o w ell adap ted ; a nd I have

,

k n o w n cases o f their breaki n g a l eg w he n pushed to

take rapidly a steep declivity ; a hu ll w ith o ne fore - leg
b roken is at o n ce brought to a sta n dstill .

Te r ri b le tales are told o f th e rele n tless ferocity o f the

bison b y th e class o f w riters w ho a i m rather at se n sa
t i o n a l d esc r iptio n tha n at sob er truth .I h ave myself
a l w ays found them t o be extremely timid a n d have,

n ever bee n charge d by a biso n though fr equ e n tly in a

,

p osition w here any ani mal at all ferocious w ould

certainly have don e so I n all my experie n ce I have
.
,

only heard o f o n e o r t w o cases o f chargi ng w hich I

co n sider fully au thentic a n d in these th e a n imal ha d
,

previously bee n attacked and w ou n ded C aptain Pearson

.

w a s o n ce treed by a w ou n ded bull in the Pu e hm u rr e e

hills w hich charged and u pset his g u n -bearer a nd an
,

o fficer w a s killed by o n e some years ago n ear A s i rgarh ,

O fte n the bli n d rush o f an an imal be n t o n escape is put

d o w n by excite d sportsmen as a d eliberat e charge .

Mu ch too of the rom a n ce attached t o the a n imal must

, ,

be attributed to his formidable appearance for th e sulle n

 THE MAH AD EO HILLS . 117

air o f a mighty bull j ust rouse d is very impressive ; a n d

much t o the w il d tales o f th e people in whose neighbou r
hood they live w ho al w ays dilate o n their ge n eral
,

ferocity but c a n sel dom poi n t t o an i n sta n ce of its

,

effects a n d w ho are moreover fr equ e n tly from r eligiou s

, , ,

p rej u d ice d esirous o f w ithholdi n g the sportsma n fro m

,

their p urs u it . S till there is s u fli c ie nt evide n ce o n

r ecor d o f the occasional fierce retaliation of the bull
bison w he n w ou n ded a nd closely follo w ed up i n some ,

resulti ng eve n in the deat h o f the sportsman to i n vest ,

their p ursuit w ith the flavour o f dan ger so attractive to

ma ny perso ns a n d to re n der cauti o n i n attacki n g them
,

highly advisable The grou n d o n w hich they are

.

usu ally met is fortu n ately favourable fo r escape if the

s p ortsman be atta cke d trees a n d large rocks bei ng
,

seldom fa r dista nt .

A lthough a closely - allied bovine the G ayal of tran s

,

Br a h m a p u t r a I n dia has for a ges bee n domesticated a n d

,

u sed to till the la n d all attempts to do so w ith the

,

s u bj ect o f my remarks o r eve n t o raise them to maturity

,

i n a state o f captivity have failed A fter a certai n poi n t

,
.

the w ild a n d reti r i n g n ature o f the forest race asserts

itself a n d th e you n g b is o n pines and dies I t has al w ays
,
.

struck m e as c u r ious w hy the most d ifficult o f all

animals to reclai m from a w ild state are precisely those
w hose co n ge n ers have been already domesticated The .

so- called w ild horses a n d the w ild asses are al m ost

, ,

u n tamable ; so also w ith the w ild sheep a nd goat the ,

w ild dog and the j u n gle -

fo wl A you ng tige r or hye n a
.

is infi n itely easier to bri ng up a nd tame than a ny o f

t hese.

This unco n qu erable a ntipathy o f the I ndian bison t o

the propi nquity of ma n is slo wly but surely contracti ng
118 T HE HIGHL ANDS OF C E N T RAL I NDIA .

its ra nge a n d probably diminishi ng its numb ers

,
.

G radually cultivation is exten di n g i n to th e valleys tha t

every whe r e pe n etrate these hills ; a n d the gra z i ng o f
cattle w hich exte n ds far ahea d o f the regularly settled
,

tracts is pushi n g th e w ild bull b efore it i nto the re m otest

,

depth s o f th e hills I have in a comparatively brief a c

.
,

quainta n ce w ith these hills myself k n o w n considerable

,

areas w here bison use d to b e ple n tiful al most e n tirely

cl eared o f t hese a nimals O ther w ild b easts retire m ore
.

slo w ly before the i n cursio n s o f m a n partly s u b sisti ng as

,

th ey do o n the produ cts o f his labour T he tiger who .

fi n ds himself sudde nly i n the middle o f herds of cattle

merely cha n ges his d iet to meet the situatio n a n d preys ,

o n cattle instead o f w ild pigs a n d deer E ve n deer seldom .

live e n ti r ely in the deep forest but ha n g o n the o u t

,

ski r ts o f cultivatio n a nd mai n ly subsisti ng on it n eed

, , ,

not m aterially d ecrease in n u mbers so l o ng as there

remain u n clea r e d tracts to fur nish a retreat w hen
p ressed But th e b iso n a d mi t s of n o compromise I
. .

hav e n ever h eard o f his Visiti ng fields even w hen h e

lives w ithi n re a ch ; h e never i n terbree ds w ith tame
cattle ; a n d the axe o f the cl earer and the l o w o f
domestic c a t t l e a r e a sign to him a s to the traditio n al
.
,

“ ”
back w oodsma n to m ove furthe r West
,
.

On the day a p p oi n te d fo r o u r gra n d hunt I started

early w ith th e yo u ng Th a k u r a n d a fe w o f th e Kork u s
, ,

by a w a y that led right over th e t o p o f D hupg a r h .

A fte r w alki n g along the ope n plateau for about three

miles w e comm e n ced the asce n t o f the hill w hich is ,

close o n feet above th e plateau The z ig z a g track .

w a s ha r dly disti nguish able amo n g the grass a n d b a mboos

t hat cloth e the hill ; a n d every h ere a n d there a road
ha d to b e cleared w ith the axe n o o n e havi ng p assed
,
1 20 T HE HIGHLAND S OF C E N T RAL INDIA .

some than the asce nt Man y a tim e after this d id I

.

tread the sam e path t o reach this valley w here biso n ,

w ere n early a l w ays t o b e fou n d a n d ma n y an effort d id

,

I m ak e to discover a shorter a n d less precipitous roa d .

But a ll in vai n for the sheer ravi n es that every w here

else hem in the flanks o f the D hup g a r h m ou n tai n re n d er
a passage rou n d it a m atter o f i nfi nitely greater tim e and
toil than the w a y over the top At the bottom o f th e.

valley b elo w a sh ady grove o f w ild ma ngo trees w here

, ,

the stream that drains the large valley h as forme d a

co n si d erabl e pool i n a r o cky basi n I fou n d assembled
,

three o r four o f th e Raj - G o n d chiefs w hose possessio ns

lie in th e hills to th e s outh o f P u e hm urr e e They .

differed not at all fr om him o f Pu ehm u rr e e u n less that ,

they w ere some w hat more i ntellige n t a n d p olish e d i n

m anner E ach had brought his s mall reti n u e o f match
.

lock men a nd a l arge gan g o f commo n G o n d s a n d

,

Kork u s t o beat ; s o that altogether w e mustere d som e

t w enty gu n s and bet w een t w o a n d thre e hu n dr ed
,

beaters The p eo p l e w ere w ell acqu ai nted w ith a l l th e

.

beats and passes havi ng al ways several gr eat hunts o f

,

this sort duri ng the year ; a n d everythi ng had bee n

arran ge d before I came The bulk o f the b eaters had
.

gone o n hours before to surrou n d the valley a nd as w e , ,

w ere a little later than w a s expected it wa s likely tha t ,

they w ould already have comm e n ced t o beat We lost .

n o time th erefore in taki n g up o u r posts w hich

, , ,

stretched in a lo n g li n e right across t he lo w er e nd o f the

valley First ho wever I had t o fur nish po w der to load
.
, ,

the w hole o f th e m atchlocks o f my n ative friends ; a nd

had I n o t gu essed that such w ould be the case as u s ual , ,

I w ould certai nly n o t have had s u fli cient in my flask .

S ix fi ngers deep is the rule for these w ea p o ns a nd it is ,

 TH E MAH ADE O HILLS . 191

of no avail to p oin t o u t t he superior stre n gth o f o u r

po w der They w ill hav e S ix fi ngers o f H all s N o 2
.
’
.
,

w hatever the co n sequence A s they put ge n erally t w o

.

b ullets a leade n a nd an iron o n e o n th e top of this

, ,

charge a n d w a d w ith a h an dful of d r y l eaves the result

, ,

ofte n is th e bursti n g of the b arrel a nd al w ays co n sider

,

’
a b le cont u sion o f the u ser s shoulder .

This w a s t o b e a sile nt b eat that is the p eopl e w ere ,

t o advan ce w ithout n oise beyo n d the rappi n g o f their

,

axes agai nst the trees as there w a s another de n se cover

,

lo w er do w n w hich usu ally h eld biso n a n d s o met i mes a ,

tiger a n d w hich w a s to b e beate n also in the afte r n oo n

,
.

I had sat a n hou r at least behi n d th e screen o f leaves

that had bee n p ut u p for m e w he n th e first S ign o f the
beat app eared a n d fo r an other half-hour nothing wa s
,

heard b ut the occasi o n al k n ock of a n axe - h a n dle o n a

t r ee Prese n tly a shot ra ng fro m th e ext r eme flank o f
.

the li n e of gu n s the n a n other a n d a clatter o f hoofs

, ,

i n side sho w e d that a herd o f somethi ng had been

repulsed i n an attempt t o escape A s the b eat adva n ced .

m ore sho t s w ere heard o n either S ide a n d the gallopi ng ,

about o f the i m pris o n ed a nimals n o w a n d the n met by

,

a S hout from b ehi nd w hen they attempted to break back ,

became pr o du ctive of co nside r able exciteme nt o n my

par t A t last a rush o f a n imals advanced do w n th e
.

side o f the st r eam w here I w a s posted a nd eight o r ten ,

s a mbar clatte r ed past w ithi n half a sto n e s thro w I had ’

.

j ust fi r e d both b arrels o f my rifle at a couple o f the stags ,

droppi n g o n e o f th em i n his t r acks a n d had adva n ced a ,

few paces t o w ards it w hen I heard a S hot o n my i m

,

mediate right a n d a fi ne bull biso n w ith t w o co w s and

, ,

a smal l calf trotted past almost in the same li n e as the

,

s a mbar ha d take n Those w ere n o t the days o f breech

.
1 22 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T R AL INDIA .

loaders a n d though I ha d a n other rifle it w a s a littl e

,

b ehi n d lea n i n g agai n st th e tre e an d before I could get

, ,

hold of it n othing b ut the ste m s o f the b eeves (as a

frie n d used t o call them ) w ere to be see n When I .

got it I favoured the bull with bot h barrels 61 p os t er io r i ,

,

but there w a s n o res ult The you ng Th a k u r w ho

.
,

occupied the p ost o n my right had b e en more success ,

ful a n d w he n the hea t er s came up immediately after

w ards I fou n d a fi ne four - year - o ld b ull lyi ng d ead w ith ,

t wo of his bullets through th e centre o f his neck A ll .

the g u ns n o w came d r oppi n g i n a n d gathere d i n a grou p ,

rou n d the slai n bison O ne had see n a b ear another a

.
,

couple o f s a mba r a nd s o on A l l had fired a n d o f

, .
,

course hit hard but th e net result w a s the Th a k u r s

,
’

beev e m y s a mbar and t w o littl e j u n gle sheep as

, , ,
”

they are called the proper n ame b ei n g the four-

, horne d
f
a n telop e
I had n ever seen a bison before a n d thoug h this ,

w a s o n ly a you n g chestnut - coloured hull w it h small

horn s I wa s m uch struc k w ith the bulk a n d exp ressio n
,

o f p o w er belo n gi n g t o th e a n imal S uch w a s the w idth .

o f th e chest that w h e n l in
iy g o n the side the upper fore ,

leg proj ected stiff a n d straight o u t fr om the body ,

w ithou t a ny tende n cy to w ards the ground The hea d .

in pa r ticular has a fi ne highbred a n d w ithal sole m n

appearan ce w hic h is still m ore n oticeabl e i n o ld b ulls
,
.

Fr o m the eye o f a n e wly slai n biso n turned u p to the ,

su nlight comes s uch a w onderful b eam o f emerald light

,

as I have see n in th e eye o f n o other animal a nd the

ski n emits a fai n t s w e et odour as of herbs
,
.

We tracked the w o u n ded s a mbar a nd biso n a little

w a y do wn the valley the forme r sho w i ng s ig ns o f bei n g
,

Tet r a qu a d r i co r m s
'

z er o s
/ .
1 24 T HE HIGHLAND S OF C E N T R AL I NDIA .

calf Within a space o f some t w enty yar d s in d iameter

.

the grass had b ee n closely t r ampled do w n a nd pa d dled

i nto the moist grou n d by their feet the footprints o f t he ,

calf bei ng i n the ce ntre w hile th e tiger s mighty p a w

,
’

w e n t round outside an d the poor c o w had evide n tly

,

circle d rou n d a n d rou n d b et w een the mo nster a n d he r

little one I am glad to say that I tracke d th e tiger o ff
.

in o n e di r ectio n and the cour a geous moth er a nd he r cal f

,

safe in an other The tiger ca nn o t I believe kill eve n a

.
, ,

c o w biso n u n less taken a t a disadva n tage ; a n d w ith

,

a bull he coul d have n o chan ce w hatever I seldom .

w ent o u t w ith out me eti n g th e tracks of t his tiger ; a n d

’
often follo w ed him t h r ough his w h ole n ight s w a n deri ngs ,

w hich w ere laid o u t as o n a map i n th e clea n sa n d o f th e

stream beds ; but I al w ays lost hi m in the e n d t hough ,

I believe h e often let m e pass w ithin a fe w yards o f him .

H e cam e at rare i ntervals like the biso n o n to th e

, ,

plateau ; b ut his regular beat w a s rou n d the bottom o f

D hupg a r h a thousa n d feet lo w er do w n
,
O n ce l ong .
,

ago a tiger t ook u p his post o n the p lateau a n d became

, ,

a m a n -eater alm ost stop p i n g th e pilgrimage to M a h a deo

, ,

till h e w a s shot by the u n cle of the Th a k u r .

I follo w e d the w ou n de d bison bull for a b out a mil e

from w here he w a s last seen ; but h e w a s m ovi ng fast ,

a n d t h e blood ha d cease d to drop H e w ould n ever .

stop th e p eo p le s aid till h e got to a stro n ghol d o f the

, ,

biso n of thes e hills about fi v e miles o ff a hill called th e

, ,

-
B u r M a (O l d Mothe r ) ; a n d so I reluctantly gave up
l
the pursuit Whe n I returned all th e he a t e rs w ere
.

assembled ; and a m ore w ild a nd u n couth set i t n ever

before had been my lot to se e E nti r ely n aked w it h
.
,

the exception of a very d i ngy and often terr ibly scan ty

strip o f cloth rou n d the middle there wa s n o di fficulty
,
 TH E MAH AD E o HILLS . 1 25

in detec t ing the p oi n ts that mark th e abo r igi ne They .

w ere a ll o f l o w stature the Kork u s p erh aps averagi ng

,

a n inch o r t w o higher than the G o nds w ho seldom ,

exceed five feet t w o i n ches the colour ge n erally a very

d ark bro w n almost black in many i n dividuals though
, ,

n ever reachi ng the sooty black n ess of the n eg r o A mo n g .

t he G o n ds a lighter - bro w n ti nt w a s n o t u n commo n .

I n features b oth races are almost ide ntical the face ,

b ei ng flat foreh ead l o w n ose flat o n the b ridge w ith

, , ,

o pen p rotube r a n t n ostrils lips heavy a n d large but the ,

j a w u sually w ell fo r med and n o t promi n e n t like that of

the negro the h ai r o n the face ge n erally very scan ty ,

but made u p for by a bu s hy shock o f straight black

hair I n form they are generally w ell made muscular
.
,

a bout th e S houlders a nd thighs w ith lea n si n e wy , ,

fo r earm a nd lo w er leg The expressio n o f face is r ather

.

stolid though good —

,
hu mou r ed S ome of th e you nger.

m e n m ight almost be called han dsome aft e r their

p attern b ut th e elders have generally a coarse w eather ,

b eate n aspect w hich is not att r active A ll the m en .

prese n t car r ied the littl e axe w ithout w hich the y n ever
,

s tir into th e fo r est a n d ma ny h ad spea r s besides

, .

D uri ng the beat they had killed a good ma n y peafo wl

and hares a n d o n e little d ee r by thro wi ng thei r axes at
, ,

t hem i n w hich they are very ex p ert

,
.

The Kork u s I fou n d w ere preve nted by prej udice

, ,

a cquired from the H i n d u s from eati ng the flesh of the

slain bis o n ; so the G o n ds fr o m A l mod a n d a number ,

of a trib e called Bha r y a s who had come fr o m the Mo t ur

hills had him all to themselves w hile the Kork u s set
, ,

t o w ork o n the s a mbar w ith their sharp little axes ,

w hich a r e all that is w a nted for ski nni ng a n d cutti ng up

t he carcase o f the largest animal My s ervan t secured .
1 26 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL I NDIA .

the to n gues a n d marro w - b o n es and a steak out o f t he

,

t f
u nd ercu o the biso n — all delicacies o f th e firs t w ater
for th e table o f the forest sportsman a n d th e remai n der
o f the flesh w a s give n up to the hu n gry multitu de As .

n ight fell th ey lit fires w here the biso n had falle n a n d

, ,

n ear the Village w here they had brought the dee r a nd for

hours after co n ti n u ed carryi ng ab out go b bets o f th e r a w

meat w hich they hu n g u p o n the su r rou ndi ng t r ees broil
, ,

i ng a n d s wallo w i n g the titbits duri ng leisure mome n ts .

This w a s o n ly the prelimi n ary t o the great feast ho w ever ,

— th e doze n o f oysters to w het th e appetite for turtl e

a n d ve n ison S oo n th e trees w ere fully deco r ated w ith
.

bloody festoo n s a n d the savages set to w o rk i n ear n est

,

to go r ge themselves w ith the half-co o ked m eat The .

e ntrails w e r e evide ntly the g r eat delicacies a nd w er e

,

eate n in l o ng le n gths as I talian s do macar o n i

,
The .

go r gi n g seemed to b e e n dless a nd I sat outside my little

,

te n t for hours looki ng o n i n w o n der at the bloody orgie .

Th e bo nfi r es they had lighted thre w a r u ddy glo w ove r

th e o p e n glade and o n the crimso n j u n ks o f flesh
,

han gi n g o n the trees bri ngi n g the dusky forms o f th e

,

rev ellers i nto every variety o f picturesqu e relief an d ,

-
formi ng a w i ld a nd R embrandt like pictu r e w hich I
shall not soo n forget Till a late hour ma ny n e w
.

arrivals co nti n u ed to add to their n umbe r s w indi n g ,

do w n the stee p path that leads over the R o r i g ha t w ith

’

l ighted torches a n d lou d s houts to S ho w the w a y a n d

sca r e w ild beasts A ll w ere w elcome to a r a w steak a nd
.

a pull at th e pot of Mho w a spirit that stood beside every

group E re lo ng they b ega n to si ng a n d the n to da n ce
.
,

to a sh r ill music piped from half- a -do z e n bamboo flutes .

The sce n e w a s getti n g up r oariou s as I tu r n ed in a n d

my slumber wa s broken through the g r eate r part of t he
 1 28 T HE HIGHLAND S OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

wood -
c u tti n g part o f the w ork they w ere w ell accustome d
to ; b ut those to w hose lot fell the lime and earth
busi n ess w ere mu ch disgusted and w ere w ith diffi culty
,

kept to their w ork A ll payme nts w ere made in kin d

.
,

the co n voy o f B a nj a r a b ullocks bei ng n e w u nremitti ngly

e mployed i n carrying grain from the plains The w ork .

ra p idly progressed and w a s b ut S lightly i nterr upte d by

,

the absco n di ng after a w hil e o f all our maso n s a n d

b r ickmakers w h o had very u n willi ngly com e up from
,

the plains Their places w ere at o n ce tak e n b y the

.

G é n d s w h o h ad bee n employed u n der them a n d w hom ,

I ha d selecte d to lear n these bra n ches of the w ork w ith ,

a Vie w t o such a co nti n ge ncy A n o l d foreman carpente r

.
,

who stuck by u s a nd superinte n ded th e w ork had ,

fortu n ately some k n o w ledge o f bricklayi ng a n d w ith ,

his h elp w e soon began to get the Gé nds to turn ou t

v ery respectable w ork i n deed N obody k ne w ho w to
.

tur n an arch ho w e ver ; a nd I had to evolve the idea o f

,

o ne out o f my o w n co n scious n ess a n d build the first

,

over th e fireplace m yself The Gé n d s w ere i mme nsely

.

amused at the idea o f the K e l l e r o r me n as they call

, ,
”

themselves dabbli ng in bricks and mortar a nd laughed

, ,

and j oked over it from m orn i n g till n ight R egular .

i n dustry ho w ever w a s n o t t o b e got from these n u

, ,

reclaimed savages ; a n d the r e w ere sel d o m half of those

on the muster -roll actually prese n t E very no w and
.

the n too they w ould w al k o ff i n a body and have a

, , ,

big d r i n k some where for a couple o f days return i ng ,

and setti n g to w ork the next morni ng without appeari ng

t o thin k a w o r d of expla n atio n necessary The height .

o f absu r dity w a s reached w he n I imported a plough and

a pair o f bullocks fr o m belo w and se n t a K ork u to w ork

,

w it h them to plough up a piece o f la n d for a gar d en .

 TH E M AH ADE O HIL L S . 1 29

H e really made a sad bungle of it at first havi ng no ,

co nceptio n of t he busi n ess a n d I had to set o n e of my

peo n s w ho had fo llo w ed the plough b efore h e do nn ed
,

t he ba d ge of o ffice t o he l p him
, I n a little w hile
.
,

ho wever seve r al of the Kork u s became quite a n f a il a t

,

ploughi ng a nd an acre or so o f fi ne soil in the ol d bed

o f the ta nk w a s s oo n fe nced in deeply ploughed and
, ,

prepared for garde ni ng operatio n s at the comme n ceme nt

o f th e rai ny seaso n .

For the next fe w w eeks my spare ti me w a s ,

pleasantly passed in explori ng the n eighbourhood of the

hills a n d their prod u ctio ns I Visite d the S a l forest in
.

t he D el a ka ri valley to the east of P u e hm u rr e e I t wa s .

o ne of t he fe w fo r ests in this part o f th e cou nt r y w hich

ha d till the n escaped destruction at the ha n ds of the

t imb er -speculator o r th e d hy a -cutti ng a b o r igi ne bei ng ,

i n accessi b le to the fo r me r fr om w a nt o f roads a n d ,

u nsuited fr om its level cha r acter a n d the si z e of the trees

to the o pe r ati o ns of the l atte r I t h o w eve r affords a n
.
, ,

example o f o ne o f the great difficulties of g r o w i ng large

timbe r i n the d ry upla n d r egions o f C e nt r al I ndia .

Tho u gh t he trees b ore eve ry appear an ce of bei ng fu lly

mature their s iz e w a s by n o means fi rs t -rate the la r gest
, ,

ave r agi ng no more than six or e ight feet in girth w hi le ,

most of t hem w hen subseque ntly cut do w n w ere fou n d

, ,

to be almost useless from hea r t -shake a nd d r y -r o t I t .

belo n ged to the Th a k u r o f P u ehm u r r e e a nd a n other

chief ; a nd I soo n aft er co n cluded a lease of it for
G ove r nme nt w ith them a nd laid out a r o ad co nn ecti ng
,
.

it w ith th e ope n cou ntry The Vie w looki ng up wa rds t o

.

the P u ehmu r r e e heights fr o m the D en wa v a lley o r .

across from the op p osite Mo t ur hills is exceedi ngly ,

fi ne the rich reds o f the sa n dstone scarp m ello wi n g into

,

K
1 30 T HE HIGHLAND S OF CEN TR AL INDIA .

an indescribable v ariety o f d elicate sha d es o f p ur p l e a n d

violet i n the eve ni n g s u n w hile broad belts o f shado w
,

t hro w n across the gree n slo p es at th e foot a n d gath eri n g ,

i n th e recesses o f th e ravi n es seem to proj ect th e ,

glo w i n g summits o f the rocks t o an unnatural height in

th e soft oran ge -ti n ted sky .

H ere I ascertai n ed the existence o f th e B a r a -S ingha ,

o r t w elve - ti n e d deer (R u c er vu s D u va u c elll i) an a n imal ,

w hich lik e the S a l fo rest i n w hich it lives had bee n

, ,

supposed n o t t o exte n d to th e w est o f the S a l belt in

the M a n dl a district I w a s n o t s o fortu n ate as to shoot
.

a stag m yself in this place ; b ut I sh o t t wo does a n d ,

s a w a fro n tlet o f the male i n the possessio n of a n ati v e

shik a rf w ith the u nmistakabl e antle r s attach ed S i n ce

,
.

the n too I have heard o f a fi n e stag b ei n g shot the r e

, ,

by a rail w ay E ngi n ee r I believe th ey are n o t Very

.

n u merous h ere i n d e d the S a l forest to w hich I believe

, ,

th eir ra nge is confine d covers a n area o f only a fe w

,

s q u are m iles .

I also fou n d th at the red j u ngle -fo w l o f N orth

e aster n I ndia (G fer r u g ine u s ) i n habits this S a l forest
.

a n d the h ills arou n d it altho u gh s o far as I am a w are

, , ,

it is n o t fou n d an yw here els e i n these hills further w est

tha n th e g r eat S a l belt o f Ma n d la The other species .

of j u ngle - fo wl w hich pro p erly belo ngs to Wester n

,

G n er a t z i
)
'

a n d S outher n I n dia
( S o n . is also to be met ,

w ith o n t he P u e hm u r r ee hills ; a n d I have shot both

species i n the same d a y i n th e r avi n e w here the M a h a deo
C a ve is si t u ate d The red fo wl coul d hardly be dis
.

t i ng u is he d from many a specime n o f th e domesticate d

r ace either i n a ppearance o r voice w hile the gray fo w l
,

d oes n o t cro w like a cock a n d is I thi n k a much , , ,

han d somer bird than the red H is peculiar hackles .

,
1 32 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CE NT RA L INDIA .

Th e common Chilccir ci gazelle o f the p l ains inhabit s

the u ndulati ng p ar t o f the plateau a n d th e little four
h orned a ntelope already referred to is n o t u n common
, ,

i n the thicker p arts The black antelope is quite

.

u n k n o w n though o n the similar plateau o f Tora n M a l

, ,

in the w estern S a t pura s it is sai d to be commo n H are s

, .

are very nu merous The K ork u s have a curious wa y o f

.

killi ng them at night I discovere d it by observing a

.

stra nge w ill -o -the - w is p -

’
like ligh t flitting abou t the edge s
o f the littl e emi n ence s across the vall ey belo w my tent ,

a ccompanie d by a faint j ingle a s o f bells I t is v ery .

s imple . O ne m an carries a p ole across his shoul d ers ,

from the fore en d of w hich is sl u n g a n earthe n pan full

-
o f blaz ing faggots o f th e torch w ood t r e e fi arra n ged s o
F

as to thro w the ligh t ah ea d The p a n is made o u t o f .

o n e o f their or d i n ary earthen w ater -vessels by knocki n g ,

o u t the side I t is balance d at the other en d by a

.

b a sket o f spare faggot s A n oth er man carries a l o n g .

iron rod w ith a nu mber o f slidi ng ri ngs that j i n gle as

, ,

he w alks Three o r four lusty fello ws follo w carryin g

.
,

bamb oos fiftee n o r t w enty feet in l e ngth a nd the party

p r oceed to m ove about the edge o f the thickets w here ,

unsus p ecti ng hares com e o u t t o feed a fter nightfall A s .

soon as o n e a p pears in the streak o f bright light thro w n

a cross the grou n d by the fi r e - pan th e w hole party rush ,

to w ards h er j i ngli ng frantically at the bells a n d keepi ng

, ,

her terror - stricke n form in the circle o f light Poor p u ss .

seldom attem p ts t o escape but sits stupefi ed by the ,

glare a nd noise till a bamboo brought d o w n o n her back

,

e n ds her existe n ce A p arty generally gets fi v e o r six

.

hares i n this wa y in a fe w hours They sometimes come .

across small deer a n d kill them in th e same wa y a nd

,

Co chl osp er mu m g oss g/p z u m

'

.
 TH E MAH AD E o HILLS . 1 33

I have heard stories o f pa n thers and eve n tigers bei ng

met with a nd tur ni ng the tables o n the fi r e -
,
hu n ters i n
a n u n expected fas hio n I o n ce took a gun out w ith o ne
.

o f these parties ; but fo und th at i t spoi l ed th e w hole

a ffair all the hares in the neighbourh ood retreati ng to

,

the cover at the first shot .

I have already said that tige r s rarely come o n to the

’
plateau Bears are equally scarce in fact I don t
.
,

t hink I eve r s a w the track o f o n e ab ove the passes a n d ,

very few belo w The op p osite ra n ge o f Mo t ur ho w ever

.
, ,

as w ell as the Ma h a d eo hills further w est a r e full o f ,

t hem . Th e panther o n the other ha nd is pretty

, ,

c ommon in P u ehm u rr e e The first night my camp

.

c ame u o n e o f a small flock o f sheep I h ad brought in

p , ,

case o f provisio ns ru nni ng shor t wa s killed by a p anther

,

close t o my te nt H e dropped fro m an overha ngi n g

.

bra nch i nto an e n closure o f prickly bushes that had bee n

put u p round the sheep ; a n d his attempts to drag it
through the fence created su ch a disturbance a mo n g the
p eo p le that he left it and leaped o u t in t he confusion .

The n ext night he sei z ed o n e o f my C lumber spa n iels at

the door o f my te n t ; but a big greyhoun d n amed Jack
”
fl e w to th e rescue a n d little
,
N ell escaped w ith a fe w
s cratches a n d a great fr ight Th e same pa n ther became
.

a fter w ards very troublesome o n the hill w he n the w ork

m en a t th e bu ngalo w had left attacki ng my dogs sheep

, , ,

a n d goats n ea r ly every n ight and comi n g boldl y t hrough

,

the very rooms o f the house H e w a s a toothless o ld .

brute ho w ever to w hich circumsta n ce the dogs o wed

, ,

s everal escapes o u t o f his very j a ws ; a nd thoug h s o

dari n g at night i n attacki ng o u r a nimals h e would n ever
fa ce the m en S everal times my ho r seke ep ers a n d dog
.

b oys sent hi m skulki ng o ff si d e ways like a crab from , ,

1 34 T HE HIGHLANDS OF C EN TR AL INDIA .

the vigour o f th eir applicatio n s o f lo n g bamboos across

his back I n ever could kill him tho u gh I tried every
.
,

co n ceivable p lan O ne n ight I m ight have shot hi m a s

.

he p assed al o n g belo w the raised plinth o f th e house in

t he moo n light ; but o f course I had seized the only
u n loade d g u n in the rack in the h urry a nd the locks ,

s n a pp e d harmlessly w ithin a foot o f his back H e wa s .

shot by a shi ka ri after I ha d left the hill .

C oursi n g foxes w a s another great am usem ent A .

colony o f th e p retty little fox o f th e plai n s inhabited a

if

small ope n gla d e a little to the w est o f my camp They .

ha d a great m any burro w s almost i n th e ce ntre o f th e

plain a ll o f w hich ap p eare d to ru n i nto each other I
,
.

never failed t o u n earth o n e o r mo r e foxes h ere by the

aid o f Pi n cher a minute black a n d -tan E nglis h
,
”

terrier with th e s p irit o f a lio n w ho could get i n t o any

, ,

o f the holes a n d w ould d ie rather tha n n o t get o u t his

,

fox O ft en he sho w e d sig ns o f s evere subterranean

.

combats ; and once I thought h e w a s d one for w hen ,

the greyh ou n ds ran a fo x i nt o th e very hol e he ha d go n e

in a t .We ha d t o get p icks and spades a nd dig d o wn
to him a n d w e fou n d hi m lyi ng with o ne fox before
,

hi m p i n ned u p i n the e n d o f a bli n d hole w hich he had ,

a lrea d y half kille d and a n other bl ocki ng th e w a y o u t

,

behin d him Poor gallant littl e Pi n cher ! H e d ie d o f

.

a s unstroke some three m o nths later fro m bei ng dragge d ,

thro u gh a lo ng eig hteen - mile m arch in th e ho t sun by a

brutal dog -boy without getti ng a si ngle d ro p o f water
, .

I had t w o brace o f capital gre y hou n ds at that time ;

o n e co u pl e crosse d b et w een the E nglish a nd R a m p u r

b r eeds a nd t he other bre d fro m a S cotch deerhound o u t

,

o f a Bu nj a r a bitch The I n dian fox is n o t above half

.

p es Beng a lensz s
’

a .
 TH E M AH AD EO HILLS . 1 35

the siz e o f E nglish R ey n ard bu t he has an astonishing

,

t urn o f speed an d doubles w ith w o nderful a gili t y

,
.

Thes e dogs ha d h o w ever,the speed o f them a nd the

, ,

run w a s ge n erally mu ch in a circle so that though the

ground w a s w ell suite d for ridi ng I generally w ent o n ,

foot a l ong w it h s ome of the w orkpeopl e w ho greatly

,

enj oye d th e sport a n d s ome o f w ho m (Bha r y a s ) eat the

,

foxes a fter wards I t w a s capital t r aini n g for bison

.

shooting w hich severely tries the w ind and in w hich I

, ,

als o S pe nt a d a y o r t wo n o w a nd the n .

S talki ng the biso n in these hills is very severe w ork

indee d A t times they may be fou n d p retty n ear a t
.

hand but more ge n erally the D hupg a r h hill o r the gre a t

, ,

r avi n e has t o be crossed first a n d either i m p lies a goo d

, ,

ma ny miles o f sti ff w ork b efore t he sport really begi n s .

The bison though they seem t o m ove sl o wly are often

, ,

really going very fast ; a n d as scarcely a yard o f the,

country they live in is an y thi ng like level w hat is ,

apparently n othi n g to the m is really a very hard pul l

for their pursuer The b ottoms o f th e v alleys are also
.

very ho t eve n at this time o f year ; a nd at a ll times

exercise u nder an I ndia n sun is much more fatigu ing
than in a cold climate A w ounded bison n ever stops.

goi n g w hile he c a n short o f nightfall a nd mus t b e

, ,

pu r sued w hile a ray o f hop e remai ns Thus hill after .

hill a n d ravi n e aft er ravine are p u t bet ween o ne and

, ,

home in the excitement o f the chase till s ud d enly y o u ,

pull u p and realis e what an imme n se distance y o u hav e

come and that y o u canno t possibly get back before the
,

middle o f the night I f you have a ny thi n g to eat the

.
,

bes t course u n der s uch circumstances is to slee p w here

you are I often u s ed to bivouac thus w hen o u t after
.

bison ; and seldom fou n d i t much o f a har d shi p A .

1 36 T HE HIGHLANDS OF C E N TR AL INDIA .

good fire c a n a l ways be lit i n a fe w minutes d ry w ood ,

bei ng never far o ff in an I nd ian j u ngle A n elevate d .

place at the same tim e sheltered from the w i nd shoul d

, ,

be chosen fo r the p urpose as the valle y s are more,

mal ariou s at night A shelter o f boughs should al ways

.

b e k n ocked u p w hich your w ild m e n w ill d o han d

,

so m e l i n five mi n utes I l ear n e d m ore o f the sim p l e

y .

’
n ature o f the forest p eople duri ng the fe w hours chat

by the fire o n these occasions tha n I b elieve I w ould

have d o n e oth er wis e in as many years I thi nk they .

got attached t o m e a good deal ; a n d thou g h they are ,

no t very demonstrative at any time I w a s ofte n ,

tou che d by s om e si m ple act o f thoughtful n ess o ne

w oul d hardly have expected from their u n tutored
n atures .

A bout th e hardes t day I had w a s aft er a couple o f

b ulls I had see n grazi ng o n the very top o f D hup g a rh
‘

loomi n g agai nst th e sky - li n e like t wo you n g elephants

i n th e red su n light I t w a s eveni n g w hen I foun d
.

them a nd as the s p ot w a s i n accessible by stalki ng I

, , ,

sent rou nd a cou p l e o f Kork u s to m ove them w hile I

.
,

p osted myself o n the r e a d they w ould be most likely to

take do w n the hill T hey w e n t ho w eve r by a pass a
.
, ,

fe w hundred yards fu rther o n and though I ran over

th e i nterve ni n g bare a nd sli pp ery rocks as hard as I
coul d t o get a shot I w a s o nly in time to see them
,

flounderi ng d o w n the hill - side like t w o great rocks and ,

they never pulled u p till far do w n in the blue ha z e that

hu n g over the botto m o f the valley they looke d s carcely
bigger than a couple o f cro ws A s they had n o t been .

alarmed by shooting a n d w ould probably b e fou nd in

,

the valley n ext day I w e nt home and prepared for a

,

long hu n t We took th e road rou n d by the great

.
1 38 T HE HIGHLANDS OF C EN T RAL INDIA .

a s it le d more n early in the d irectio n o f home The .

w il d er n ess o f bamboo - covere d hills a n d deep i ntervening

rocky - bottom ed o r s w ampy d ells o ver a nd thro u gh ,

w hich w e carrie d that trail till the s u n w a s getti n g l o w ,

is beyo n d d escription E very n o w a n d the n w e thought

.

w e w ere j u st upon him freshly - ,

cro p ped bamb oos a n d
d roppi ngs sho wing that h e wa s not far in fr ont But .

he ha d never sto pp ed fo r l o n g This restlessness

.

I after w ards fou n d to be th e habit o f biso n w hich h ave

recently been d isturbe d H e wa s evidently m aki ng o ff
.

stea d ily fo r some d istant retreat We started s everal .

herds o f s a mbar an d solitary stags and once a b ear ,

hu s t l ed o u t o f a n a l a w e w ere crossi ng a n d bundle d o ff ,

do wn t he hill -side ; but w e w ere b e n t o n n obler gam e

an d d urst n o t fi r e at the m By eve n i ng we had g o t
.

right to the further side o f th e great ravi n e beyo n d

Jambo - D wi p a nd the peak o f D hupg a r h glo we d p i nk
‘

an d distant in the rays o f the d eclini ng sun We w ere .

d esce n di n g a lo n g slo p e amo ng thin trees an d high

yello w grass and I w a s a little ahead o f the rest w he n
, ,

[ suddenly s a w t he hea d a n d horns o f a bison l oo king

at m e over a l o w thicket a nd w a s p utti n g up my rifle to
,

fire w he n w ith a loud snort the o wn er w heele d rou n d

, , ,

and plu ngi ng noisily do w n the hill d isappeare d This .

snort which sou n ds like a strong expulsion o f air

,

through the nostrils is very commonly uttere d by

,

bison w hen su d de nly disturbed a nd is t he only s ound

,

I ever hear d from them exce p t a l o w me n acing moa n

, ,

w hic h I hav e heard a bull u tter w hen suspicious o f

ap p roachi ng da nger a nd the quiveri n g bello w w hich
,

they sometimes e mit in co mmon w ith most other

a nimals w hen i n a r t i c u lo I r a n to the edge o f what
.

proved t o be a d eepish ravi ne ful l o f b amboos an d wa s ,

 TH E MAH AD E o HILLS . 1 39

j ust in time to see a small her d o f s ix o r seven co ws ‘

and calves disappeari ng over a l o w shoulder o n the

o pp osite side B ut behi n d them slo wly stalked o ne
.

u —
b l l a maj estic fello w n early j et — black a nd to w eri ng ,

like a you n g elepha n t i n the rapidly - closi ng gloom o f

the eve ning A s he reached the t o p of the rise h e
.

p a u se d and tur n ed b r oadside o n his solemn - looki ng ,

visage faci ng in o u r direction H e wa s about n i n ety .

yards from w here I sat with the h eavy 8 - bore rifle I

,

had w earily dragged aft er him all day rested o n m y

knee ; and forbiddi ng though he looked I sighted him
, ,

j ust behin d the el bo w and fired fu lly ex p ecti ng hi m to ,

subsi d e on the receipt o f t wo o u nces o f lead d r ive n by six

d rachms o f po w der Bu t there wa s no result w hatever
.
,

save a dull thu d as the bullet plu n ged i n to his side ;

a n d h e slo w ly w alked o n over the bro w as if n othi ng

had happ e n ed My other barrel caught him in the

.

flank a nd the n I seized the spar e rifle that wa s thr u st

,

into my ha n d a n d sped across the i n terveni ng ravi n e

,
.

I w a s toili ng up the other side very hot a n d much o u t ,

of breath w he n a heavy crash beyo n d fell u p o n my

,

delighted ear I had been in a go n y lest I ha d missed

.

the mighty targe t after a ll ; b ut it wa s n o t s o There .

he l a y as he had falle n a nd rolled over do w n th e hill

,

u ntil st o ppe d by a clu m p o f bamb oos A mighty m a s s .

o f beef truly secured at last B ut w e w e r e six o r

, ,
.

se v en m iles from Pu e hmu rr e e and there wa s n o mor e ,

than half a n h our o f daylig ht left The r oad I k ne w .

w a s frightful w ith hundre d s o f ravi n es besides the

,

great o ne t o cross an d it wa s n o t t o b e thought o f a t

,

n ight . A ft er du e consideration we determined t o go

a n d sleep a t a rece n tly cut dhy a that w a s k n o wn by the

p e ople abou t a mil e from w here we we r e ; s o leavi ng

, ,
1 40 T H E HIGHLAND S OF C EN T R AL INDIA .

t he fallen bull t o th e sha d o w s o f night w e w ent ,

a nd m ade ourselves su fficiently comfortable for the

n ight u nder a ca no p y o f th e n e w ly -
,
cut branches o n ,

co u ches s p read dee p ly w ith the s p ri n gy sh oots o f the

bamboo We had w alke d at leas t t wenty miles in th e
.

c ourse o f th e day a n d that over fearful grou n d

,
I wa s
.

v ery ti r e d bu t ha pp y an d nev er slept sou nder i n my

, ,

life O n the whole I think stalki n g the m ou n tai n bull

.

a mo n g th e sple n d id s cenery o f these elevated regions ,

possesses m ore o f the eleme n ts o f tr u e s p ort than alm ost

a n
y other pursuit i n thi s p art o f I n d ia .

B UL L B I S ON .
1 42 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL IND I A .

desce n t The former have been nearly s w ept a w ay

.
,

their o nly remai ni ng re p resentative bei n g th e pe nsio n ed

G rin d Raj a o f N a g pu r ; th e l atter remain i n their
desce nd an ts a n d almost to a ma n S ho w the clearest
, , ,

sig n s of possessi ng a mixture o f the H i n d u a n d

aborigi n al blood The H indu eleme nt i n su ch cases
.

ha s n o t been the debased article curre n t among the

m asses o f t he l abou r i ng populatio n b ut t he purer strai n
,

de r ived fr om the aristocratic families of R aj put a na I t .

is as it w ere th e fi r s t c r o ss in the mixed breed a nd thus , ,

as might b e expected sho w s the characteristics o f both

,

sides clearly developed I n other cases amo ng the

.
,

lo w er races of ab origi nes c r osses also appear t o have

,

take n place ; b ut in su ch ca ses it appears to h ave been

th e al r eady de b ased H i n d u o f the lo w e r orders th at has
furn ish ed t he foreig n eleme n t a nd the result has bee n a
,

breed w hich l ittle app roaches the high A ryan character ,

a n d is ,
i n fact o n ly a S light adva n ce o n th e p urely
,

aboriginal type A mo n g the chiefs the cross a pp ears to

.

have take n place w ith all th e differe n t tri b es of i ndigenes .

To w ards the east th e mixed b r eed call themselves G und

Raj p u ts o r S hortly Raj -Gends and are th e direct result
, ,

of t he allian ce bet w ee n the Raj p u t adve n turer and the

Gend . I n th e Kork u count r y the same thi n g seems to
have occurred bet w ee n th e Raj p u ts a nd th e Kork u s I n .

this case h o w ever the tribe bei ng a n i nfl uential o n e

, , ,

the desce n dan ts a r e only kno w n as Kork u s But they .

differ i n m any respects from pure Ko r k u s bei ng tall ,

a n d fair -complexio n ed ultra -H ind u in their Obs erva n ces

, ,

a n d m a r r i ng o n ly among their several families o r i n to

y ,

purer h ouses — n ever amo n g the u n diluted aborigines .

I n the extreme w es t a disti n ct race called Bhila l a s has

origi nated from the cross b et we en th e Raj p u t and th e
 T HE A BO RIGI NAL T RI B ES . 1 43

Bb c cl . The Bheel s w ere for a much longer period i n

close co ntact w ith H i nd u s than a ny other tribe a n d that ,

duri ng a period o f I ndia n history whe n th e rest r ictio n s

o f caste w ere almost e ntirely in abeya n ce B u ddhism .
,

and it s offspri ng Jai nism w ere the ruli ng faiths in that

,

part o f the cou ntry u p to the eleve n th o r t welfth

ce n tury ; a n d thus it is p r obabl e th at a m uch greater
admixture o f the races occurred the r e tha n in cou ntries
w he r e the Brahmi n ical forms prevailed Th e Bhila la s .

a r e n o w very n u merous occupyi n g large tracts as almost

,

the sol e popul atio n b ut still there is a marked disti n ctio n

,

bet w ee n these a n d the lan d -holdi ng chiefs o f the sam e

desce n t T he disti nctio n is in fact i de ntical w ith
.
, ,

that b et w ee n th e Raj -G und a n d Ko rk u chiefs a n d

th e numerous commo n er classes o f th e same tribes
w ho are n omi n ally pu r e abo r igi n es b ut are really half ,

H i ndu .

A s is the case w ith the d ive r s p eoples n o w i n cluded

amo ng modern H indu s it w ould be w h o lly impossible
,

n o w to gauge the exte n t to w hich the i n fusio n o f the

A rya n eleme n t ha s take n place amo n g these aboriginal

races T he facility for amalgamation bet w een them
.

the chemical a ffi nity s o to speak bet w een the races

, ,

seems t o b e so great that in a very fe w generatio n s

,

the poi n ts de n oti n g the predominan ce o f o n e or th e

other become o b literated A nd yet the traveller amo ng
.

the m w ill come o n stratum after stratu m sho wi ng in

the clearest m ann e r t he i ntermediate st a ges bet ween th e
t w o races A n d as a rule variation o f physical type
.
, ,

w ill b e fou n d to b e accompa n ied in al most equal ratio

by diverge n ce from abo r igi nal man ners and rel igiou s
idea s i n the directio n o f H i nd u ism I t is pro b abl e that .

the fu rther commixture o f bloo d excepti ng through the ,

1 44 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL I NDIA .

occasio n al im morality o f th e races has i n rece n t time s

,

cease d as regar d s th e m asses though th e chiefs are

,

still u nremitti n g i n th eir e n deavou r s to purify th ei r

-
families by allian ce ith m ore blue blooded Raj p u t
w
h ouses tha n their o wn B lue blood b ei n g a market
.

abl e commo d ity h ere as in other cou ntries the chiefs ,

have to pay highly for su ch privileges ; an d nothi ng

has so mu ch te n de d to p auperis e these families a s th ese
co n sta n t b r ibes for t he e n no b leme n t of their race a n d ,

the equally heavy cost o f co n ciliating the p riestly

arbitrators of their quality .

For it is through this chi nk that the i nfluence o f

B rahman ism has m ai nly succee d e d i n pe netrati ng t o
th e very core o f th ese i n digeno u s tribes The test o f
.

pu r ity of caste among races o f u ncertai n d esce n t is

mu ch more th e exte nt o f their observa n ce o f the H i nd u
code o f purity a n d ceremonial tha n actual proof o f
’
lineage The Brahmans form a sor t o f H e r alds C ollege
.
,

t o be inscribe d o n the rolls o f w hich for a fe w ge n era

tions entitles an as p ira n t t o ally hi mself w ith familie s
w ho have already attai n e d a higher status than himself .

S trict reverence for the Brahmans a n d a d here n ce t o

,

ceremo nial purity are n ecess a ry to secure this ; an d

,

thus it is th at a ll th ese semi -H i n d u chiefs s p en d t he

greater part o f their time and m ea n s i n striving t o
attai n the utmost rigou r of attention t o H i n d u religiou s
a n d social rul e
. T o this e n d they have aban do n ed th e
gods o f th eir fathers for the d eities o f the Brahma ns .

They have re t ai ne d B rahman s as their councill ors a n d

t o co ndu ct the w orship o f the gods They eat n othi n g
.

u n sa n ctio n ed by th e Brahmi n ical l a w ; a n d some even

employ Bra hma n s to cook their foo d spri nkli ng the

,

faggots empl o yed for the pu r pos e w ith holy w ater .

1 46 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

H i n d u s ; b ut as in the cas e o f the la t ter such a d ivision

,

is purely n omi n al the actual numbe r o f H i nd u castes

,

bei ng al most infinite so also amo n g t he G o n ds this

,

disti n ctio n accords w ith nothi ng t o be see n i n practice ;

a n d their sub d ivisio n s differ in almost eve r y district ,

bei ng founded p artly p erhaps o n tribal desce n t b u t ,

chiefly o n imported disti n ctio ns arisi n g fro m the extent

o f their ap p roximatio n to H in d u ism S ome o f th ese
.

castes h ave already s u cceeded like their chiefs i n a t

, ,

tai n i ng to t he status o f Raj p u ts ; an d the process is

still goi ng o n before o u r eyes in p laces w here the sacre d
t hread is ope n ly sold t o aspira n ts by the chiefs an d
thei r ob sequiou s Bra hma n s .

A s might be expected th e G o n ds h ave go n e fu rther

,

i n the adoptio n o f these H ind u sentime nts than the

other tribes Th ey are far m ore numerous they occu p y
.

large tracts o f l o w cou nt ry i ntermixe d w ith the H i nd u s

-
their semi H ind u chiefs possesse d th e ruli ng p o w er o f
the cou ntry for many generations ; a nd possi b ly th ey
b elo n g to a bra n ch o f the huma n r a ce m ore susceptible
o f m odification than the oth ers Their Tamulian c o n
.

e n er s i n S ou ther n I nd ia w hile l osi n g little o f their

g ,

abo r igi n al p hysi cal type have co n form ed e n ma s se t o th e

,

c u s toms an d religio n o f H in d u ism ; while the Kolarian

stock w h erever fou nd has o b stinately resisted inter
, ,

mixture w ith the H i n d u .

I n th e next c hapter I p ro p ose to give a sam p l e of

th e lege n d s curre n t amo n g th e Gends which i ndi cate ,

their o wn consciousness o f the i mportance o f the chan ge

that has bee n w rought am ong the m by their acce p tance
o f H i n d u ideas ; a n d i n th e meantime w ill procee d t o

s om e description o f the aborigi n al b eliefs a nd insti

t u t io n s w hich still lie in the most a d va n ce d o f their
, ,
1 48 T HE HIGHLAND S OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

frequentl y leads to th e accepta n ce o f such phrases a s

p u rely aborigi nal The g reatest d ifli c u lt y ho w ever is
.
, ,

their vague ness o f conce p tion an d their w a n t of abstract

,

ideas Thus fo r i n stan ce in all the recorde d v o c a bu

.
, ,

l a r ie s it w ill b e fou nd t hat the ter m for

“
sky is
“ ” “ ”
n othi n g but the H i n di name for clouds or s u n , ,

or
“
m oo n o r some speci fi c obj ect in the sky not
, ,

fo r th e sky generally for w hich they do n o t seem

,

t o p ossess a n ame I t is o n ly in the remotest wilds

.

that either G o nds o r Kork u s are n o w found who do

n o t k n o w su ffi cient H i n di to carry o n a S im p l e conver

sation although they ge n erally employ their o wn

,

tongu e in talki ng amo n g themselves The tribe s.

bordering o n the p lai n s who visi t som e bazaar to wn

,

o n ce a w eek fo r purposes o f excha nge and w ho a r e ,

con stantly in contact w ith the people o f the p lains ,

have in man y cases l ost all k n o w ledge o f their o wn

l anguage and s p eak th e H indi o f th e p lai n s Ther e
, .

is n othi n g that is w orth preservi ng in thes e rudimentary

in d igenous to n gu es ; an d their i n evitable absorp tion i n
the more co p ious ling u a fr a nca o f the plai ns is n o t
at a ll t o be reg r etted .

I n religion the Gend tribes have p assed through

all th e earlier stages o f belief an d are n o w e nteri ng
,

on that o f idolatry pure a n d simple - the last in w hich

religio n is still altogeth er dissevere d fr o m ideas o f
m orality A s has been ge n erally observed ho w ever
.
, ,

the obj ects o f w orship o f each n ew stage o f developme n t

here form additio ns to those formerly revere n ced rathe r ,

than suppla n t them .

Th e fou n dation o f th eir creed appears to be a

vague pa ntheism i n w hich all nat u r e is l ooke d up o n
,

as p ervaded by spirit ual po wers the most p romine n t ,

 T HE A BO RIGINAL T RI B ES . 1 49

a nd po w erful o f w hich are perso nified a nd pro p itiate d

by simple offeri n gs E very promi ne n t mountai n t o p
.

is the reside n ce o f th e S pirit o f the H ill who must ,

b e satisfied by an o fferi ng before a dhy a can b e

cut o n its slopes The fo r est is p eo p led by w oo d
.

la n d s p rites for w ho m a grove of typical trees is

,

c ommo nly lef t standi n g as a refuge i n cleari ng a way the

j u ngle When the field is s o w n the god o f rice -

.
,fi el d s
( K hodo P e n ) has to be satisfied a nd a g ai n w hen
, the
c r op is reape d The malig na n t po w ers receive regular
.

p r o p itiatio n The Tiger G od has a hut built for hi m in

.

the w ilderness that he may n o t come n ear their d welli ngs .

-
The goddess f small p ox and o f cholera recei v es
o

o fferings chiefly w h en her ravages are threate n ed .

A mong su ch el eme n tary po w ers m ust be reckoned the

ghosts o f the deceased w hich have t o b e l a id by certain
,

ceremo n ies These co n sist in co nj uring th e ghost i nto

.

s omethi n g ta n g ible i n o n e ea s e i n to the body o f a fish

,

c au ght i n the n earest w ater i n a n other i nto a fo w l

, ,

c hosen by om e n The obj ect w hatever it is is then

.
, ,

brough t to the house o f the d eceased a nd pro p itiate d ,

fo r a certai n time after w hich it is formally co nsigned

,

t o rest by burial o r in o ne case by pouri n g it (in

,

s olution
) over the representation o f the v illage
g o d .

The s p irits o f perso n s kille d by w il d a n imals are believed

“ ”
to be especially malig nan t and are laid w it h m u ch care
,

a n d ceremo n y To this p r actice has been supe r ad d e d

.

by so m e the rite of periodical p ro pi t iatio n of de cease d

a n cestors by sacrifice implyi n their conti n ue d existence
g ,

i n another w orl d a n e n tirely differe n t thi ng it may be

,

observed fro m the rite already d escribed w hich implies ,

only a restless and spitefu l existe n ce i n t his w orld o f a

ghost w hich m a y b e made an en d o f by a cere mony .
 15 0 T HE HIGHLAN D S OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

I b elieve the su p erior belief to b e entirely derive d

from th e H i n d u s w ith wh om it is a prime articl e o f
,

faith .

N one o f t hes e po w ers o f n ature are represented by

i d ols n o r have they a ny particular forms o r ceremo nies
,

o f w orshi p They are merely localised by some vagu e

.

symbol ; th e m ountain god by a daub o f vermilion o n

som e p rominent rock the tree god by a pile o f sto n e s
thro wn roun d the stem o f a tree— and s o o n A t these .

th e si mp le savage p ays his d evotion almost furtively a s

, ,
’
he p ass es in th e gray o f th e m o r ni n g to his day s labour ,

by a simpl e p rostration o r perhaps by the o ff eri ng o f a

,

han dful of rice o r an onio n ! More elaborate acts o f

w orship are e n gage d in by th e commu n ity at certai n
seasons a n d then thes e p rimitiv e p o w ers may b e j oi n e d
,

w ith the more perso n al deities derive d from th ei r

neighbours i n the ge n eral act of w orshi p .

I n the next st a ge t he tri b es h ave adde d certain

Fetishes t o the list o f p o w ers The p rincipal o f thes e is
.

an iron spear - head calle d Pha r s a Pé n an d h e is su p

,

p orted by the Bell g o d the C hain god a g o d com p os e d

, ,

o f some co p per m o n ey hu n g u in a p ot sha p eless

p
'

sto n es an d many oth er obj ects th e po w er attribute d t o

, ,

w hich is purely arbitrary a n d u n co nnected w ith a ny

,

natural a ge n cy T o this stage ap p ears to belo n g th e

.

m edici n e m a n a n d dealer i n w itchcraft w ho still ,

p ossesses co n siderabl e p o w er amo n g th e tribes These .

medici n e men can scarcely b e called priests a n d are n o t ,

a n hered itary caste Their busi n ess is to exorcise evi l

.

spirits to i nterpret the w ishe s o f th e fetish to compel

, ,

r a in a nd s o o n S ome o f the m see m to have acquire d

, .

th e po w er o f thro w i ng themselves i n to a sort o f trance

in w hich they are visited by the d eity ; bu t in this
”7 2 THE I
H GHL AND S O I" IN I f IA .

s ui t e d , i n fa c t ,
c a li b r e o f a pe o pl e s c a r ce ly
t o t he me n t a l
t m rgi ng fr m m e r e f t i s his m o e
y e e e .

M a ny h a v e c nje t u re d t h a t t he w o rshi p o f S iv a a n d
o c

h is m y t hi c c m pa n i ns w hich fo r m s s i nc o ng r u o us a n
o o
,
o

i n t ru s i n i n t t he m il de r f ai t h o f t he A ry a n H i ndu s
o o ,

ha s b n i n f a c t d e r ived fro m t he a b o rigi n al r a c e s o f

ee , ,

I nd i a A s r e g a rd s S iv a hi m sel f in h is il h a llic fo r m the r e

. .
’

s e ms e t o be li t tle f m nl a t io n fo r s u c h a n hy po t hesi s
o .

T he e m b l e m ha s n w h e r e I b eliev e bee n f u n d a s a n
o
, ,
o

o bj ct e f a d ra t i o n a m o n g t he i nd ig e no us r a c e s w he r e
o o

l l r a ln n i n is ni h as n t pe n t r a t e d w he r e as it w a s a v e r y
o e
,

anc i e n t f r m f w o rs hi p a m o ng t he pe o ple s o f \ Ve s t e r n
o o

A s i a a nd w as e ve n p r ev a l e n t in he a the n I l o m e m o re tha n
,

s ixt n hu nd r e d ye a rs a I t w a s a s i n I nd i a s o i n the
ee
g o .
, ,

c u nt ri e s
o f W e s t e r n A s i a c o n n ect e d w i t h hu m a n s a cri
o
,

fi sce I t is t r u
. th a t thi s fo r m o f th e H i nd u religion
e

is c hi fly p r v a l n t in t he w il d e r parts o f t he cou n try

e e e ,

w h r e t hee a bo i i i n a l
g c l e m e nt p r ev a il s m a ny o f i ts ,

c hi f s t s h r i n e s b ei n g i n f ac t s i t u a t ed i n seclu d ed w il d er
e e

n s s e s a n d gu a r d e d b ab o rigi na l o r se m i - a l o r i i na l cus
e
, y g ,
i
,

t di a ns
o I t m a y b e the n th a t t he p e r s o ni fied fo rms o f
.
, ,

thi s d eity w e r e ml a p t a t io ns fr o m t he c ul t u s o f s o m e
o f t he a b o r igi na l r ac e s th a t have b ee n a b s rb ed i n o

H i nd u ism ; b ut I thi nk w e mus t g o fu r t he r ba c k i n t he

hist o ry o f thi s m o v m e n t t o fi nd t he o r ig ina ls o f K al i
e

a n d l i h a i ra v a t h a n t o a ny t hi ng w e k n o w o f t h e i nd ige n es

a s th e y n w xis t Ma y it no t ha v e b e e n in t he earlies t
o e .

d a y s o f Bra hmi nic a l r eviv a l w h e n c mpe t i t o r s for t he ,

o ,

a dh e r e n c e of t he p e o pl e i n t he g r e a t s t r uggle w ith
h i d d his m ha d t o be s o u gh t fo r a m o ng t he popular
’

d e i t ie s — whe n V ish nu w a s t r a ns fo r med i n t o th e p o pul a r

d e mig o d s fl a m e a nd K ri s h na i nt o th e T o r t o ise a nd t he , ,

Fi s h a nd t he 1\ I a n
, t o sui t t he t a s t e s o f a variety
 T I I IC A BO RIGI N A L T l t I I i I IS
'

. 15 3

of half-l l in d uis e d races — tha t th e n S iv a w a s a l s o i m

ported fr o m the West a nd alli ed w ith the ster n e r o bj ects
,

o f w orship o f the w ilde r r a c e s to d r a w them i nt o t he

,

g r eat n e t o f the priests as the i ncar n ati o n s of V is h n u in

,

their popular h er o es a n d totems w e r e employed t o d r a w

th e m ore civilised classes of t he p e o pl e ? We r e these
deities really i n dige n ou s am o ngst the Cou d s we sh o u ld l

certai nly se e thei r w orship a m atter o f m ore w ide s p r e ad

and heartfel t devotio n tha n i t is I t is i n t r ut h still.

almost co n fin ed to th e chi e fs a nd t h eir half-H i nd u

d epe nd a nts a n d to a fe w of the m os t adva n ce d a nd
, ,

p r obably half-blooded sectio ns o f the t r ibe s I n t he

,
.

g r eat p eriodical acts o f public propitiatio n of th e gods

they are either not admitte d o r if so frequ e ntly h ave
, ,

-
t o sit u nder o n e o f the fetishes o r n ature gods o f the
p r imitive fait h .

The chief o f these ceremo nies occur at t he ma r ked

periods of their agricultu ral seaso n— w hen the c r ops a r e
s e wn o r reaped a nd at the fl o w eri n g of the valuabl e
,

M ho wa tree — also w h e n severe p estile n ce threate n s th e

commu n ity O n su c h occasions a r o w o f s m a ll sto n es
.
,

taken from th e n earest hill - side a r e set u p in a r o w and

,

d aubed w it h vermilio n to represe n t the p r ese n ce o f all

,

the gods that are t o b e i ncluded in the propitiatio n .

S ometimes small pieces of iron hu n g u p i n a pot are

u sed i n stead . A b igge r sto n e o r hit of i r o n represe nts
the Bar a Pen o r G reat G od o f the occasio n w ho is
“
, ,

u sually the o n e supposed t o w a n t m o st atte n tion at th e

time C ocks a n d goats a n d libatio n s o f mbo wa spirit

.
, ,

are the n offered w ith mu ch ceremo ny d anci ng a n d , ,

music ; a nd the affair like m ost o f their great occasio n s

, ,

usually w i n ds u p by the w hole of them getti ng a b o mi n

a hl
y dru nk . S u c h is still the real religion o f these peo p les ,
15 4 T HE HI GHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

n ot w it hstandi ng th e l acqu er o f H i nd u ism many o f them

hav e received ; a n d such I may add is not very differe n t
fr om that of th e vast mas s o f the s o - called H ind u s o f
the p l ai ns w ho look o n V ish nu a n d S i v a as little neare r
,

to them tha n do thes e savages a n d pay their real de ,

v o t io n t o th e village gods t o t he gods o f t he threshi n g

,

floor a nd t o their l ar es a n d p e n at es — all u n recog nised

,

b y th e orthodox p riest I n bo t h cases their religiou s

.

belief is w h olly u ncon ne cted w ith a ny idea o f morality .

A m oral d ei t y dema n di ng m orality from his creatures

, ,

i s a religiou s co n ception far beyo n d t he prese nt cap acity

either of the aborigi n e o r the or di nary H i n du .

Th e idea of a G reat S pirit ab ove a n d b eyond all ,

personal gods a nd w ho m th ey c a ll Bhag w a n is ho w

, , ,

ever accepted by all H i nd u s a n d has been borro w e d

, ,

fr o m the m by the G o n ds H e is t he great First C aus e

.

of a ll thi ngs but himse l f e n do w ed w ith n either form n o r

,

moral q u alities H e is u n re p rese n ted a n d receives no

.
,

adoratio n A H i n d u w ill accurately desc r ib e a ll the

.

gods of his pan the o n ; but o f Bh a g wa n he has n o idea ,

except that h e is the great C reator H e is i n fact that .

, ,

Un k n o w n G o d w hom hu man ity has n ever yet l ear n e d

to approach save th r ough th e mediu m of some hu man o r
a n thropomorph ous substitute .

I have n o t yet tou ched o n th e re l igio n o f th e Kork u s .

I t is I thi nk purer t ha n t hat o f t he G o nds The

, ,
.

po w ers o f nature are e qu ally a d ored such as the Tige r ,

Go d the Bison G o d th e H ill G o d the D eities of S mall

, , ,

o x a n d C holera B ut these are a l l seco n dary to the

p .

S u n a n d the Moo n w hic h amo n g this bra n ch o f the

, ,

Kolaria n st o ck as amo ng the K o ls i n the far E as t a re ,

t h e p ri nci pal obj ects o f adoratio n I have seen n othi ng .

resembli ng Fetishis m amo n g the m ; a nd i f as some e o n ,

156 T HE HIGHL A ND S OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

I thi nk differ a m o n g themselves m ore than d o the m en

,

o f these races . Those o f th e G o nd s are generally some

w hat lighter i n colour a n d less fl eshy tha n the Kork u s .

Bu t the G o nd w om e n o f di ff ere n t parts o f th e cou n try

vary greatly in ap p earance m a ny o f them i n the ope n er
,

parts n ear the plai n s bei ng great robu st creatures — fi ner

a n imals by far than th e m en ; a nd here H i nd u b l ood
m a y be fairly suspected I n the i n terior agai n bevies
.
, ,

o f Go n d w ome n m a be see n w h o are liker mo n keys

y
than hu ma n b ei n gs The features o f all are ge n erally
.

stro ngly marked a n d coa r se Th e you n g girls occasion

.

a lly possess su ch comeli ness as attaches to ge n eral

plump n ess a n d a good -humoured expression o f face ;
but w h en th eir short you th is over all pass at o n ce int o
,

a hideou s age Their hard lives shari ng as they do a ll

.
,

the labou r s of th e m en excep t that o f hu nting suffice t o ,

a ccou n t for this They d ress dece n tly e n ough in a

.
,

s ho r t petticoat often d yed blue tucke d in bet w een the

, ,

l egs s o a s to leave them nake d t o the thigh and a ,

m antle o f w hite cotto n coveri ng th e u p p er p ar t o f th e

body w i t h a fol d thro wn o ver th e hea d The m ost
, .

n ce calle d P o t hr ia s )
e astern secti on o f the Kork u s
(he
a d d a bodice as do some o f the H i nd u ise d G o n ds .
,

T he G o n d w ome n h ave the legs as far as they are

s uffered to b e seen tattooed in a v ariety o f fa n tastic

patter ns done in i ndigo o r gunpo w d er bl u e

,
The .

P a r d ha ns are the great artists i n this li n e a nd the ,

fi gures they desig n are almost the only or n ame ntal art
attempted by these tribes I t is do n e w hen the girl
.

becomes marriageable ; a nd th e traveller will sometimes

hear dreadful screeches issui ng fro m their villages w hic h ,

w il l b e attributed to some you n g G o udi n bei n g operated

upon with the tattooi n g - n eedle L ike a ll barbarians
.
,
 T HE A BO RIGINA L T RI B ES . 15 7

b oth r a ces deck th emselves w ith a n i n ordi nate amou n t

o f w hat they co n side r or n ame n ts Q ua ntity rather tha n
.

quality is aimed at ; a n d both arm s a nd legs are usually

loaded w ith tie r s o f heavy ri n gs — i n silver amo ng t he
more w ealthy b ut rather tha n n o t at all the n i n b r ass
, , , ,

iro n o r colou r ed glass E ar a n d n o se ri ngs a nd bulky

,
.

n ecklaces of coi n s or beads are also commo n ; a n d thei r

a mbrosial locks are i ntert wi n ed o n sta t e occasions w i t h

th e hair o f goats a n d other a nimals .

I n m arriage customs th ey diffe r fr o m t he H i n d u s

chiefly i n th e co ntract a n d perfo r man ce both taki ng
place w he n th e p arties are o f fu ll age Polygamy is n o t .

forbidde n but w omen b ei ng costly ch attels it is rarely

, ,

pract ised The father o f t he bride is al ways p aid a

.

co nsideratio n for the loss o f h er services as is usually ,

th e case amo n g poor races w here the females bear a

l arge share in the bu r de n of life Th e Bi b lical usage o f
.

the bridegroom w hen too poor to pay this co n sidera

,

tion in cash servi ng in the house o f his fu ture father -

, in
a w for a certai n tim e is u n ive rsal amo n g the t r ib es
, .

The y o uth is the n called a la mj o m; a n d it frequ e n tly

happens that he gets tired o f w aiti n g a n d i n duces his ,

fair o n e t o m ake a moo nlight flitti n g o f it The .

morality of both sexes before m arri a ge is ope n to

comm e n t ; a n d s o me o f the tribes adopt the p r ecautio n
o f shutti n g u p all the marriageabl e you n g m e n at n ight

i n a bo t hy by t hemsel ves I nfidelity i n the married

.

state is h o wever said t o be very r are a nd w he n i t does

, ,

occu r is o n e o f the fe w occasio n s w hen the stolid

ab origi n e is roused to th e extremity o f passi o n freque n tly ,

reve ngi ng himself o n the guilty pair by cutti ng o ff his

’
w ife s n ose an d knocki ng out the brains o f h er paramour
,

W it h his axe .
10C
1 b
T HE HIGHLAND S OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

The marriage ceremo n y is very elaborat e and

childish a n d is ge n erally borro w e d i n great part from
,

th e H i n d u s The bride is in som e tribes selected from

.

a mo n g first cousins by preference More u su ally .

,

h o w ever co nn ection is sought amo n g a nother tribe

, .

U su ally an u n derstan d i ng is come to privately before

“ ” “ ”
the formal aski ng takes place s o that a refusal ,

is scarcely k n o wn Th e Pardh a n is th e ambassador

.
,

“ ”
a n d arra n ges th e articles o f th e marriage settleme nt .

I n co n t r adistinctio n to the H i n d u practice it is at th e ,

’
b r ideg r oom s house that the cere m o n y takes place s o ,

that t he w ho l e o f th e ex p e n se may fall u po n him .

H i n d u ised tribes ho w eve r p r actis e the rev e r se The

, , .

a ctual ceremo n ies co n sist fi r st o f an omen to discover

, ,

the propitious day on w hich comme n ces a se r ies o f

,

repeated carryi n gs to a nd fr o a no i nt i ng s a n d spri nkli n gs

,

w ith various s ubsta n ces eati n g toge t he r tyi ng th e

, ,

ga r me nts together da n ci ng together rou n d a p ole

, ,

bei ng half d r o w ned together by a d ou ch e o f w ater ,

a n d the i n tercha nge o f ri n gs — all o f w hich may b e

suppose d to symb olise the u nion o f th e p arties The .

’
b ridegroom sometimes places his foot o n the bride s
back to i n dicate her subj ection ; and a feig n ed forcible
abductio n o f the bride is oft e n a p ar t o f the ceremo ny
— th e usual relic o f olden times o f the stro n g hand .

S a crifice to t he go d s an d u nlimited gorgi n g and s p irit

,

d r i nki ng
,
are usuall y the w i n d -u p o f th e affair .

Wido ws are no t preclude d from r e- marri a ge ; a nd

amo ng the G o nd s i t is eve n th e d uty o f a you nger
b r other to t ake to w ife the w ido w o f an elder The .

’
co n verse is n o t h o wever p ermitte d A w ido w s r e
, , .

m arr iage is accomp anied by littl e ceremo ny .

There is little i n a ny o f these customs it w ill be ,

1 60 T HE H I GHL A ND S OF CEN T RAL I NDIA .

e n u meratio n of the hill tribes at i nte r v als from w hich ,

t o j udge w heth er they are i n creasi ng or the reve r se I .

suspect the latter as regards thos e in th e interi or ,

though th e be t ter fed a n d l ess exposed t r ibes i n a n d

near the plai n s m ay probably be i nc r easi ng .

U ntil lately habits o f u nrestrai n ed dru n ke nn es s

,

h av e aggravated t he n atu r al o b stacles to thei r im

proveme nt The labour of their peculiar syste m of
.

cultivati o n t ho u g h s evere is o f a fi t fu l characte r a

, , ,

fe w w eeks of g r eat t o il bei ng succeeded b y a n i n terval

o f idle n ess b r oke n only by aimless w a n de r i ngs i n th e
,

j u ngle o r hu n ti n g expeditio ns Periods of r ude ple nty

.
,

w he n the rai n s have b ee n p r opiti o us t o the crops th e ,

hu nt successful a n d the crop of mho wa a b u n da n t hav e

, ,

bee n succeede d by times o f scarcity o r even o f w a nt

S uch a thi n g as providi n g for a rai ny day has neve r
bee n thought of The n ecessity for co n sta ntly shifti n g
.

the sites o f their cl ear i ngs a nd habitatio n s has created

a w a n t o f local attachme n t a n d a dispositio n t o a ny
,

thi ng rather tha n steadi n ess o f occupation O ccasional .

periods of hardship are sure to be follo w ed i n such a ,

cha r acter by outbursts o f excess ; a n d thus the li fe o f

'

the G o n d has u sually consisted o f i nt ervals of sever e

t o il succeeded by p eriods of u n rest r ai n ed dissipatio n i n ,

w hi c h a n ythi n g h e m a y have ear n ed ha s b een squa n d ered

o n d ri nk. I t is th i s u n fo r tu n ate w a n t of steadi n ess that
has led to m ost o f the misfortu n es of th e race t o th e ,

lo s s o f their he r it a ge i n t he la n d a n d i n a great man y

,

cases p r actically eve n o f their perso n a l li b erty I nfe r io r .

r a ces give w a y before superior w he n ever they meet ;

a n d w hethe r as here a nd in A m e r ic a th e i nstr u me n t
, ,

selected be fi r e - w ater ,
”
o r as i n Ne w Z e ala n d it b e o u r ,
 T IIE A BO RIGINAL T RI BES . 161

o wn favourite recip e o f po wder a nd lead the resul t is

,

the same .

The case o f the G o n d has hitherto little differed ,

w hether he has p referre d to cli ng to his rugge d hills

a nd struggl e w ith n at u re o r has remai n ed o n the edge
,

o f c i vilisatio n a n d toiled for the superio r r aces E very

.

w here th e a b origi nal is the pio n eer o f th e more settled

races in their adva n ce agai nst the w ilde r n ess H is.

capacity for toil that w ould b r eak the hea r t of a H ind u ,

his enduran ce o f malaria a n d his fearlessness o f the

,

j u ngle emi n e n tly qualify hi m for this fu n ction a nd his

,

th r iftless n ess a n d hatre d o f b eing lo n g settled i n a l ocality

a s certai nly e n sure th e fruit s o f his lab our reverti n g as

a perma ne n cy to the settled races o f the plai n s The .

p r ocess is every w here mu ch the same . The fro n tier

v illages i n the possession of H i n d u la n dholders o r o f ,

the G o nd Th a ku rs o r chiefs usually comprehe n d large

, ,

areas o f culturable b u t u n cleared lan d a nd there are

,

a l w ays numb e r s o f the aborigi n es floati n g about such

fr o ntie r s ear ni ng a precar ious livelihoo d by w ood -

,
cutti n g
a nd occasio n al j obs,o r w orki n g as farm -servants w ho can,

b e i nduced t o break it up They have o f course no

.
, ,

c apital a n d s eldo m a ny s ecurit y to offer ; and the risk

,

o f loss must therefore be bor n e by t he landholder He .

e ither le n ds mo n ey himself fo r the p urchase o f a p lough

and pai r o f bullocks a n d the other small farm -

, stock
require d to comme n ce w ith o r becomes security fo r such
,

a loan bo rr o wed from th e banker w ho is found in every

c ircle o f v illages w ith m o n ey al w ays ready to be le n t
,

o n a ny such speculation . Th e i nteres t charged o n su ch

a money loan is never less tha n t w e nty - four per cent .

per annum S eed gr ai n has also to be borro w e d ; and

.
162 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL I NDIA .

this as w ell as sufficie n t food to last the cultiva t or t ill

,

his c r op is ready is ge nerally borro w ed i n ki nd t he

, ,

arrangeme n t b ei n g that double th e qua ntity b orro w ed

shall b e repaid at harvest time A s grai n is cheaper at .

harvest than at seed time this does not qu ite rep r ese n t
,

a hu ndred per ce n t i n terest ! S uch rates o f i n terest

.

seem high but the risk o f such speculations is ve r y great

, ,

th e pri n cipal bei ng n o t seldo m l ost altogether Th e .

sho r t -
sighted p olicy lo ng follo w e d by o u r legislature ,

w hich re n dered the recovery o f such debts a m atter o f

the gr eatest difficulty an d u n certai nty greatly aide d i n ,

mai ntaini ng these rates o f i nterest This policy is not .

eve n yet exti n ct there bei ng in the C e ntral Provi n ces

, ,

at least a rule w hich p rohibits procedure a gainst t h e

,

-
farm stock of a debtor although it may all have b ee n
,

purch ased w ith th e borro w ed mo n ey to recover w hic h

execution is sought .

I t is obviou s that tra n sactions o f this n ature are

really o f the n ature o f a p artnershi p bet w een t he
labou r er a nd the cap italist the form er furnishi ng ,

n othi n g but his perso n al labour and su p ervision S om e .

times the p art n ershi p takes a more explicit form w he n ,

the m an o f mo n ey fu rnishes the oxe n agai n st the

man u al labour o f the cultivator A ll the other ex .

’
penses i n cludi ng the w ages o f the cultivat or s family
, ,

if he has a ny are deducted from the gross p roduce

,

o f t h e farm w ith interest t o t h e capitalist if h e ha s

,

advan ced a ny part of s uch ex p e nditure a n d the bala n c e ,

is the n divided equally bet w ee n th e o w ner of th e oxe n

a n d th e cultivat o r I n either case t he result u su ally
.

is that all the p r ofit b eyo n d the bare w a ges his labou r
,

w oul d fetch i n th e ma r ket is absorbed by t he man that

,

su pplies t he m o n ey a n d takes the risk But the culti .

1 64 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL I NDI A .

origi n es A lmost the w hole of this trade had got into th e

.

ha n ds of the K u la r s o r spirit - , dealers by mea n s o f the ,

po wer they h ad ob t ai ne d over the tribes by their devotio n

t o stro ng potatio n s Badly o ff as the p o or G o nd w a s i n
.

t eh ha n ds o f the agricultu r al mo n ey -
le n der h e w a s at l east ,

p aid in w holesome grai n o r hard coi n ; but h ere th e

u n iversal practice w a s to pay him i n li qu o r all except ,

the pitta n ce n ecessa r y to keep body a n d soul together

i n the w a y o f food and raime n t O fte n t he K u la rs
.

u n ited the t hr ee trades maki n g th e , G o n d cultivate a n

autum n crop of grai n for his o wn subsiste n ce a n d th e
’
t r ade r s profit at a seaso n w he n forest operatio n s w ere
impossible excha ngi ng his surplus grai n for liqu or
,

immediately after u ntil h e had him deep i n his books

,

agai n a n d the n se n di n g hi m out to the forests to cu t

,

w ood t o repay hi m a nd to purchas e back s o me o f his

,

o w n grai n for subsiste n ce H e w a s clean done an d

.

cheated at eve r y turn havi n g t o labour like a h orse and

, ,

getti ng o u t o f it nothi ng bu t a sca n ty subsistence a n d as ,

much v ile liquor as h e could s wallo w w ithout i nterferi ng

t oo much w ith his w orki ng po w er This trade h ad .

b ecome e n ormously profitable The numbers of th e caste .

o f K u l a r s w ho
, alo n e c a n legitimately deal in spirits ,

w e r e limite d ; and they soo n w ere rolli ng i n w ealth .

A d issolute fl a u n t ing set by nature th ey di d n o good ,

w ith the mo n ey they thu s ear n ed spe n di n g it chiefly in ,

ambli ng a n d debauch ery and in loadi n g themselves

g ,

a n d thei r w ome n w it h massive golden orname n t s The .

e v ils of the system w ere i ncalculabl e I n his w il d stat e .

t he Gend o r Kork u has been recog n is e d to b e truthfu l

a n d ho n est occasio n ally breaki n g o u t i n to pas sion w hich
,

might lead to viole n t crime b u t free fro m t e n dency to

,

mea n o r habitual crimi n ality No w he b ecam e a thief .

 T HE A BO RIGINAL T RI BES . 165

a nd a scou n drel H is cravi ng fo r d ri nk made him a

.

rea d y tool in the ha nds of every desig ni ng k n ave ; and

to the dan gerous temper of the dru n ke n savage h e soon
began t o add the v iciousness o f a debased and des p erate
cha r acter To the forests the i nj u r y w a s s carcely less
. .

H avi n g no im p lemen t s b ut their little axes and their ,

em p loyers bei n g w holly i n diff ere n t to economical

processes thes e w oodcutters procured their mate r ial in
,

the m ost wastefu l w a y possible To produce a post for .

-
a cattle pen a straight you n g teak sapli ng o f t e n o r
’
fifteen years gro wth w ould b e felled a n d a piece six ,

feet lo ng take n from its middle all the rest bei ng left to,

perish To p rocure a p lank for a door a mature tree

.

w ould b e cut do w n and he w n a w ay t o th e requ isite

,

thickness w ith the axe Ti mber w a s the n doubtless

.

cheap because nothi ng b u t the lab our o f thes e do wn

trodde n races w a s expe n ded in procuri n g it a nd as ma ny ,

o f them as they desired could b e procure d by th e spi r i t

dealers for a w age w hich to the latter w a s a lmost

nothi ng I n those days the excise arrangeme nts bei n g
.
,

very lax the duty levied o n spirits wa s very l o w ; and

,

e n oug h liquor could be bre wed t o make a G o nd drunk

for about a pe n ny o f o u r mo ney N o forests coul d .

stand such a drai n as this and this w asteful system o f

w orki ng them w a s one o f the mai n causes o f the ir
im p e n d ing exhau stio n .

I t is fortunate that u n d er an improve d a d ministra

,

tion means w ere found at o nce to put a s t o p to this

,

w h olesale w aste and t o greatly ameliorate th e condition

,

o f the aborig inal labourer The first step i n this

.

dir ection wa s the i n tro d uction o f a n e w excise l a w ,

un d er w hich the formerly u nrestric t e d p o w er o f est a b

stills a n d grog -
l is hi ng s p irit - shops amon g the ab origi n es
1 66 TH E H I GHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

wa s w ithdra wn . L iquor allo wed to be distille d

wa s
o nly at cer t ai n ce n tral places and o n payment o f a fixed
,

-
a nd co nside able still head d u t y
r A certai n nu mber o f
.

retail shops o n ly w ere allo wed s u ffi cie nt i n n u mber a n d

,

p osi t io n to supply all t he proper requireme nts o f the

p eopl e a nd capable o f b ei n g regulated by the p olice
, ,

w ithout forci n g te m ptation in the w a y o f the less

p ro vide n t cl asses .The licenses fo r this restricted
n umber o f shops w ere let by p ublic auction No w came .

a j ust ret r i b ution o n the w hole race of K u la rs There .

w ere far m o r e o f the m e ngaged i n the liqu or - trade tha n

w ere required to man these shops all w ere w ealthy and
reckless ; a nd a l s o j ealous o f each ot her ; and so a
strong compe t itio n for the lice n ses s et in amo n g them
Fabulous sums w ere bid at the auctions -
.

i n ma n y cases
a n d ev ery where th e p rice o f liqu or w a s s o force d u p by

this a n d t he h eavy still - head duty tha t the poorer

classes could n o lo n ger afford to d ri n k it in excessive
quantity S ales thus dimi n ishe d w hile t he expenses o f
.
,

a shop we r e la rgely i ncrease d ; a nd the r e su l t w a s the

almost u niversal ruin o f the K u l a rs a nd the com p lete ,

breaki ng u p o f thei r system o f traffic Th e gol d or na .

me nts they had fl a u nt e d to the w orld gra d ually

d isap p eared ,
and ma ny of them ended i n utte r
ban kruptcy I t may p erha p s b e regretted that a less
.
, ,

sudden and se emi ngly oppressive metho d o f curi ng the

canker that w a s eati ng i nto t he fro ntier society did
not suggest itself ; b ut i t is d iffi cul t to pity s o vicious
a n d u nscrupulous a tribe as these K u la rs Though the .

co nsumption o f liquor has falle n o ff i mme nsely the stat e ,

reve nue h as n o t suffe r ed th e avo w ed obj ect o f getti ng

,

“
t he maximu m o f reve n u e w it h the mi n imum o f
consum p tio n bei ng fully attai ned .
1 68 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN TR AL INDIA .

an d arran ge for the sup p ly of the cou ntry A t th e .

tim e this w a s beneficial i n m a ny res p ects enabli ng u s ,

to utilise m ost o f th e fully ripe sta n di ng trees a nd the ,

logs lyi ng i n the forest b y e n hanci ng the price u n til i t

,

became remunerative t o take th ese o u t No w ho w ever.

, ,

this has ceased to be n ecessary an d there are sufficie nt

,

legitimate deal ers in the trade to su p ply all w an ts .

I t w a s some time b efore w e ventured to interfere

w ith the d evastation caused by the w ild tribes i n thei r
system of tillage b y axe a n d fire w hich has b ee n
described H avi n g acquired t he reputatio n of savage
.

”
and i n tractable foresters it w a s w ith co n siderable
,

hesitation that the first steps w ere adopte d The m ost .

p romisi n g forests w ere e n circled b y boundary lines ,

marked by t error - inspiring maso n ry pillars w ithi n w hich

,

the formation o f d hy a cleari ngs wa s prohibite d The .

peo p le obeyed w i t h scarcely a m urmur ; an d p resently

the rules w ere exte n ded t o the great mass of the w astes ,

in so far that the cutting o f valuable timber for cl earings

wa s forbidde n except under su ch arrangeme n t s as
,

affor d ed a prospect o f the reclam atio n o f the la n d bei ng

p erma n ent To the w il d est o f the tribes certain areas
.

w ere assig n e d su ffi cie n t t o affor d room for a rotation o f

,

sites for their d hy a -fi el d s I t ca n not be said that these

.

com p rehe nsive restrictio n s h ave been every where e n

forced t o th e letter n or w a s it to be expected But
, .

the general effect has been very m arke d : th e i nt r a c t “

”
abl e foresters have sho w n a ready acquiesce nce in
arran geme n ts the o bj ect a n d n ecessity o f which w ere
,

carefu lly sho wn to them and year by year th e influe n ce

o f l a w is more fully ack n o w led g ed a n d felt i n the forest

reg i o ns
.

The habits o f th e aborigines are n o w greatly changed

1 70 T HE HIGHLAND S OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

its de ni z e n s i n stead o f t he poiso n ous liquo r w hich

,

w a s fast hur r yi n g t hem t o des t ructio n Their co n tact

.

w i t h the H in d u races w a s lo n g to them n othi ng but

a cu r se ; b u t there is n o w a ge n eral a g reement o f
o pi n ion t hat o f late t hey h ave b ee n fast improvin g ,

b o t h in w ell - being a n d i n character Wh r e t hey stil l .

e

c o n t inu e t o w ork a s fa r m - serva n ts the y receive better

w ages a n d save s ome t hing o u t of them ; a n d either
, ,

from such savi ngs or fro m their large ear ni ngs o n

t he ra i l w a y w orks m a n y have fou n d the m eans t o
,

set t le do wn as small farm ers o n their o w n account .

E ven as b orr o w ers the ir credit is much improved A .

great deal of capital is n o w seeki ng the profita b l e

i nvestment o ffere d by ag r iculture ; a n d loa n s are given
o n easier terms eve n t o these st ill so m e w ha t u nr eliable

The high price obtai n able for o il -

“
s ettlers . seeds of
late years h as perhaps do n e more to w ar d s this than
a n thi n g else
y I t takes
. a mere ha n dful of see d to
s o w an acre of t illee (sesamum ) ; i t flou r ishes w ith
the rude s t til lage o n h alf- cleare d lan d for w hich n o ,

r e nt is usually paid for th e firs t three years ; and

i t is cut a n d sold by the begin n ing of N ovember .

I kno w t w o unencu mb ere d Kork u s w ho in 1 8 6 7

‘ ’

cl eare d th irty acres o f light lan d and so w ed it w ith ,

t ill ee
. They b orro w ed 8 0 rupees t o buy bullocks
a nd impleme n ts a n d t w o m a ne es
,
lb ) of j o wa r ee .

( -
millet ) to eat The interest
. o n the mo n e y de b t w a s

2 0 rupe es a n d as u sual d ouble th e qua nti t y of grain

, , ,

ha d t o be pai d back at h arvest They had n o other

.

expe n ses n o re n t bein g charged a n d t hey themselves

, ,

doi ng all th e labour The produ ce w a s 7 5 ma u nd s

.

lb ) o f o il -seed w hich s old fo r 2 1 5 rup e es

.
,
’
fr o m w hich they repaid t he 8 0 rupees w o rt h
 TH E A BO RIGINAL T RI B ES . 1 71

o f grai n an d 1 00 rupees in
cash leavi ng them gai n ers ,

o f 35 r upees after payi ng off the w hole

o f thei r debt Thu s they got a stocked farm free from
.
,

debt in a si ngl e s easo n by their o w n m an ual labou r

, ,

a lo n e w hich w ould after w ards y iel d the m at least £ 1 0

,

a piece p er a nn um o r much more than th ey coul d

,

live o n i n comfort The m o n ey -le n d er at the sam e

.

time cleared 4 0 per ce nt o n his mo n ey in eight .

S u ch a farm as this may appear rather

a m ise r abl e little a ffai r to the E nglish reader ; but
such are t he u n its of w hich th e vast exte n t o f I n di an
tillage is made up ; a n d to obtai n p ossessio n o f such a
holdi n g w ith its sle n der stock is a n obj ect o f ambitio n
, ,

t o millio n s o f labourers for a bare subsistence .

There c a n b e smal l room fo r doub t that the per

m ea t io n o f these ab origi nal t r i b es w ith H i n d u ideas ,

m anners a n d religio n is steadily progressi n g ; a n d it

, ,

m ay b e h ope d that this i nflue n ce is n o w w orki n g rather

for th e better than fo r the W orse Th e flig ht y .
,

d e b au ch ed half- tame d G o nd wa s a bei ng much de

,

t e r i o r a t e d fr om his origi n al state o f rude simplicity ; but

t he steady a n d sobe r if illiterate an d superstitious
, ,

H ind u cu ltivator o f the soil is a type to w ards w hich w e

should by no mean s regre t to see the aborigi n al races
adva n ci ng I t is tru e that in thus j oi ni ng th e great mass
.

o f H i n d u is m they w ill excha n ge their rude fo r ms o f

religious belief for a s u b mi s sio n to the po werful p riestly
i nflue n ce w hich still prohi b its th e adva n ce o f the p eopl e
o f I ndia beyo n d a certai n point a nd for a superstition ,

w hich is m o r ally no better tha n their o wn Th e .

m issio n ary m a y los e his cha nce i n the me a ntime o f

E xt act f r ro m a R e p o t b y the
r ,
wr ite r, on the S ettl e me n t of the
N i ma d ist ict
r r .
1 72 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

*
getti ng them to accept some of his fetishes i n the p lac e
of their o w n B ut probably th ey w ill then b e n o
.

fu rthe r if so far from th e accepta n ce of a p u re religio n

, ,

of morality than they a r e at p rese n t ; a n d w hen th e

distan t d a y da w ns for the dusky peoples o f I n dia w he n ,

the light o f educatio n shall dissi p ate their hideou s

superstitio n s and lead them t o i n quire after a pure
,

belief they w il l be there elevated a n d im p roved b y

, ,

co n tact a nd assimilatio n w ith a race superior to

themselve s .

S uch seems to be th e probable future o f thos e

sectio ns o f the a b origines w ho lie o n the co nfines o f
H i nd u ism in th e plai ns But s o long as the vas t
.

w ilder n esses of these C e ntral H ighla n ds remai n u n

cleare d w hich p hysical causes w ill i n g r eat m easu r e
,

re n der a perm a ne nt n ecessity so lo ng must human ,

i nhabita n ts o f a type fitted to occupy the m conti n u e t o

exist For s u c h civilisatio n as w e call it is im p ossible
.
, ,

a nd u n desirable if it w ere possible A ll that can be .

d o n e fo r them is to elimi n ate by thoughtful admi nistration

cau ses w hich lead to their depression o r demoralisation ,

and to avoid a ny treatment irksom e t o th eir w ild a nd

timid nature w hich is not necessitate d by the general
requ irements of the cou ntry .

To retu r n t o my doi n gs at Pu ehmu r r e e To wards .

the en d o f Febru ary numbers o f H i n d u p ilgrims fr o m

the plai ns to t he great sh rine o f S i v a in the M a h a de o
hills b egan to pass my camp They usually e n cam p .

at th e foot of the hill belo w th e shri ne ; a n d besides th e ,

road over the plateau come by a w a y w hich lea d s

,

thro u gh th e D e n wa valley belo w th e Pu ehm u r r e e sca r p .

Of c u se I m ean w hat w ul d p o ve fetishes t o the m in thei

o r o r r

p ese n t i ntellectual stage — n t that they

r o o t the m issi n a y a re s o o r
1 74 TH E HIGHLANDS OF CEN TR AL I NDIA .

fai n tly typified in mho wa grog and sticky s weetmeats .

A u n t S ally alone is n o w here : t here is n othi ng at a ll

resem b li ng the u p roarious mirth o f that a n cie n t l ady .

D oubtl ess at all these gatheri ngs th ere are a certai n

n umber o f genuine p ilgrims w h os e e n d i n comi n g is t he
,

performance o f sacred rites at these h o ly shri n es at suc h

holy s easo n s ; for t he fairs are all held at times w he n
the w orship o f th e local deity is held t o be partien
l a r l y e ffi cacious But generally their number is n o
.

greater a proportio n o f t he w hole than is that o f th e

m embers o f th e ri n g i n a D erby cro w d S uch .

gatherings usually occur n ear the large centres o f

populatio n w here solem n temples cro w n some sacre d
,

emi n e n ce by the holy N arba da But the gatheri n g a t

.

the Ma h a deo shri n e w a s of another cha r acter from thes e

h oliday outi ngs I t d ra ws its multi t udes i n to a remote
.

“ ”
a n d desolate valley surrou n de d by th e eter n al hills ,

w here th e G reat G od has his chiefest d w elli n g - p lace i n

these ce ntral regio n s N o gorgeous temples o r i m
.

p r essive ritual attract the sight - seer The path way s.

leadi n g t o the place are mere tracks scarcely discern i ble

,

in the ra nk j u n gle an d here a n d there scali n g p recipitou s

,

rocks w here th e feet o f cou n tless pilgrims have w orn

,

steps i n the sto n e Y ou ng and old h ave t o track o u t

.

these paths on foot ; a n d all th e terrors o f pestilence ,

w ild b easts a n d the demo n s a n d spi r its o f th e w ast e

,

su r rou n d th e approach i n their excite d imagi n atio n s .

A rrive d at the foot of th e holy hill th e pilg r im fi n d s

,

neither j ollity n o r a nythi n g more tha n th e barest require

m e nts of existence a w aiti n g him H is food is dry
.

parche d grai n his cou ch o n th e naked earth duri ng his

, ,

soj our n in the p r ese n ce o f Ma h a dev a S hould h e be .

a mo ng the fi r st t o arrive the tige r m ay cha n ce t o

,
 -
T II E A BOR IGINAL T RI B ES . 1 75

dispute with him the right to que n ch his thirst at t he

w atering - place i n the D enw a r iv e r fl Thos e w ho come t o
"

a place like this for pleasure must be fe w i n deed .

O n my wa y back t o P u ehmu rr e e as I passed through ,

the assemble d multitu d es many of the m w e r e starti ng

, ,

after a dip o f purificatio n in the holy s tream to scal e ,

the heights that co n t a in the shri ne My w a y also lay .

’
u p the pilgrims p ass ; a n d as I w e nt I passed throug h
n umerous groups o f the m slo wly toili n g u p the steep

asce nt o f n early t wo thousand feet Both m e n and .

w ome n formed th e th ro n g the former stripped to the ,

w aist a n d gi r de d w ith a clea n w hite cloth the ho r izo n tal ,

m arks of red a n d yello w w hic h d isti nguished them as

w orship p ers o f S i v a b ei n g n e wly impri n te d o n th eir
a r ms a nd foreheads The w ome n retai n ed their us ual
.

costume ; but the careful veili n g of face a n d figu r e ,

attended to o n com mon o ccasio n s by high caste ladies ,

w a s a good deal relaxe d i n the exciteme nt of th e

occasio n (an d besides w ere they n o t o n their w a y t o
,

be absolved o f a ll sin a nd n o t inco n siderabl e reve

l a t io ns o f the charms o f ma n y o f the good dames o f ,

light bro wn ski n s a nd j e t black eyes w ere pe r mitted by ,

the w ay war d behaviou r o f their fl o w i ng robes as they

tur n ed to stare in ta s t o nis hm ent at the s a ke?) a n d his
-
stra gely attire d atte n dants peggi ng a w ay past them u p
n

th e hil l w -
ith d ouble barrelle d rifles on their shoulders .

A ll w ere talking a n d laughi n g gaily — n o w a n d then

shouti ng out Jae Jae M a h a deo ! (victory t o th e
“
,
”
,

G reat G od ) The cry raised by ea ch as he took th e first

.

ste p o n t he bill w a s taken up by all the for ward grou p s ,

till it died a way i n a confused hu m among the cro w d

A s I w e n t t o Mo t u r on this o ccasi o n I s w the t ack f a tige
a r o r

w he e the p i l g i m s d i n k
r r r . T hey ha d n ot then a ive d o f c o u se
rr ,
r .
1 76 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

w ho had al r eady reached the shri n e far u p in the ,

bo w els o f the hill G loom and terror are the last senti
.

me n ts in th e religious feeli ng o f the H i nd u even w hen ,

app r o achi ng the shri n e o f the deity who has been called
the D estroyer i n their tri nity of gods I t is co nsidere d .

sufficie n tly meritorious to p erfo r m s u ch a pilgrimage as

this at a ll w ith out further addi n g t o its mise r y by
,

w aili n g a n d g n ashi ng o f teeth They believe it will do .

them good because the priests say so b u t they do not

,

thi nk i t necessa ry to w eep o ver it and boil their ,

”
peas w he n they c a n Bu t at the b est i t is a hard
.

clamber for those u n used to toil The o l d a n d decrepit .

,

th e fat trader a n d the d elicate high -bred w oma n have

,
.
,

to h alt a nd rest oft e n a n d again as they lab our u p the

hill The path w a s a zig -
. zag and at every tu r n some
co n ve nient sto n e o r r ocky l edge had be e n w or n s mooth
by these resti ngs of ge nerations of pilgri ms .

For a lo ng w a y b efore the shrine w a s reache d th e

path wa s li ned o n either side by ro w s o f religious men
d ica n t s a n d de votees spreadi ng before them open cloths
,

t o receive alms clothed i n ashes picked o u t b y th e white

,

ho r i z ontal p ai n t marks o f the follo w ers o f S i v a w ith ,

gi r dle o f t wisted rope a n d lo ng felted locks hollo w- eyed ,

a nd hideous j i ngli ng a huge pair o f iron t o ngs w ith

,

m ovable ri ngs o n them and shouti ng o u t the praises o f

,

Ma h a deo The cla n g of a large fi ne -

. t o n ed bell a n d the
hu m o f a multitude o f voices reache d o u r c a r s as sur , ,

m ou nti ng the last shoul d er o f the hill w e e ntered the ,

n a r r o w valley o f the shrine A lo ng dim aisle bet wixt .

,

high r ed sa ndsto n e cli ffs an d can opied by tal l mango

,

trees led up t o the cave

, The roots o f the great .

ma ngoes o f w ild p l a n tai ns a nd o f the sacred Cla wnp z m fi

, ,
g

m mp a
ill i cit el z a C/
'

ca .
1 78 T HE H IGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

child r e n s card —h o uses are e r ected at some p o i n t of thei r

’

pe r egri natio n s to sig nify a desi r e for a m a nsio n in Kail a s

the heave n of S iv a Ma n y o f the p l aces w hich should
.

i n theo r y b e visited a r e very i n accessi b l e such as the t o p ,

of t h e Cha o r a d e o p eak a n d very fe w o f the pilgrims

,

m ake the w hole rou n d .

I sat fo r som e h ours in the ravi n e sketchi n g the

e n t r a n ce to the cave a n d the pictu r esqu e th r o n g a b ou t
it A fe w sulky lo o ks fr om the p r ofessi o n al r eligio nists
. ,

a n d a d r a w i n g closer of thei r ga r me n ts b y the ladies ,

whe n t hey s a w my occupatio n w ere all the n otice I met ,

w ith . The b r ight co l o u r i n g w hich gives such a char m

to co ng r egatio n s o f H i n d u s w a s heighte n ed b y t he
gene r al holiday attire of the w o r s hip pe r s o n this o c
casio n ; a n d in th e m ello w ed light fr o m above w hich
, ,

pe r colated rather tha n sho n e through the ca nopy o f

foliage w ould have for med a s u bj ect w o r thy of a muc h
,

better artist tha n myself I t w a s hard to b elieve that

.

all this gay gatheri ng had come i n a day a n d w ould go ,

in an other leavi n g the valley agai n t o the bison a n d

,

the j u ngle - fo wl U nlike most shri n es w here such p il

.

grimages occur n o o n e remai n s to look aft er the god

,

when th e pilgrims are gone The bell is u n slu n g a n d

.

t a ke n a w ay b ei ng evide n tly l ooked u po n as the only

,

t hi n g o f valu e in the place Whe n I first visite d th e .

cave I fou n d that t he G reat G od had b ee n better a t

te n ded to by the w ild beasts o f the fo r est th an by his
huma n w orshippers — a pa nthe r o r hye n a havi ng evi
d e nt ly been i n t he daily habit of leaving t he o nly
offeri ng he could make b efore his sh ri ne !
I t is a comm o n idea amo ngst E uropea n s that th e
w orship at t hes e S i v it e sh r i n es i n cludes rites or mysteries
o f an obsce n e character I believe this to be wholly
.
 T HE A BOR IGINAL TR I B ES . 1 79

grou n dless N o su ch thi n g coul d take place here at

.
,

a n y r ate except i n pu b l ic am o n g a de n se cro w d ; and

,

neither h ere n o r at a n y other o f the man y shri n es that

I have visited have I eith er seen o r heard o f such a
p r actice . I t is u n doubted that t he small sects w ho
w orship th e S a kt i o r fe m ale po w er of S i v a do i n dulge
'

, ,

i n s uch obsce n ity Their u nholy rites a r e n o t ho w eve r

.
, ,

practise d at the public sh r i nes but i n th e da r k seclusio n

,

o f their sec r et meeti n g - places a n d their existe n ce I

believe is w holly u n k n o wn t o the grea t maj o r ity eve n
o f the o r di n ary follo w e r s of S iv a .

There is o n e obj ect w hich w ill attract atte n tio n n ea r

this shri n e of S i v a and w hich w ill receive a r emarkable
,

e xpla n atio n Proj ecti ng from th e edge o f a sheer a n d

.

lofty cliff a b ove th e sacred brook is h u ng a small w hite

fla g. I n n oce n t -l o o ki ng e nough it is ; b u t it marks a
“ ”
spot w here i n the days that are fo r gotte n
, human ,

victims hurl ed themsel ves over the rock as sacrifices t o

th e bloody K a l i a n d K al -Bhai r av a th e co nsort a n d s o n
,

o f S i v a t he D estroyer The British G over n me n t w hich

.
,

c a nn ot be accused o f timidi t y i n forbiddi ng s e - called

religious c u stoms which are co n trary t o human ity has ,

l o n g si nce put a stop t o these bloody rites Fo r .

c enturies ho w ever they w e r e a regular part o f th e sho w

, ,

at these a nn ual pilg r images b ot h he r e a n d at other

,

p r i n cipal shri n es o f S i v a They are co n nected w ith the

.

w orship o f the te r rible mythical developme n ts o f the

god above me n tioned — forms w hich have w ith som e ,

probability bee n co nj ectu r ed to b e aborigi nal d eities

,

im p orte d i nto the Brahmi nical pantheo n .

Far to the w est of P u ehm u rr ee in th e dist r ict o f ,

N im a r is a rocky isla n d i n th e N arb ad a river called

,

Ma ndha t t a o n w hich is situ ated the shrine o f S i v a called

,
1 80 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RA L IND IA .

O mka r — one o f
the oldest an d most famo us i n all I ndia .

L ike that at P u eh mu r r e e it is situ ated am o ng rugged

,

hills a n d j u n gl es but it has evide n tly at o ne time been

the seat of a great ce ntre o f S i vit e w o r ship A ncie n t .

fortificatio n s su r mou n t its s ca r ps ; and the area o f

n early t w o square miles e n closed is p iled up w ith the

rui n s of a t housand go r geou s temples Th e most .

an cie nt o f the templ es at w hich w orshi p is still paid are

held by ab origi n al Bhe el s as th ei r custodia n s a nd th e ,

m ore rece nt by a Bhil a l a family w ho admit t heir remot e,

de r ivatio n fr om th e fo r mer A lege n d is h ere cu rrent

.
,

1 0 d b ased o n w r iti n gs of s ome a ntiquity that Kali and ,

Kal- Bhairav a w ere here w orshipped b y the Bhe els long ,

b efore th e w orship of O mka r (S i v a ) w a s i ntr o duced

al o n g with the Raj p u t adve n turer a n d his atte n dant
p r iest who w ere th e a n cestors of th e present Bhil a la
,
'

custodian a nd of the hereditary high priest of S i v a s ’

shri n e The Raj p u t is said by allia n ce w it h the Bhe el s

.
, ,

to h ave obtai ned the h eadship o f the tribe ; a nd th e

holy m a n who accompa n ied him to have staye d by his ,

auste r ities the ravages o f thei r savage deities l ocki ng ,

K al i u p i n a caver n of the hill (a nd if you d o n o t believe

it you may still see the caver n closed up ) a n d vo w i n g to ,

Bhairav a a n a n nual sacrifice of human bei ngs L isten .

n o w to the i n ducements w hich th e local S i v i t e gospel *

h olds forth to devotees to cast themsel ves fro m th e rock .

k r -
A t O m a Ma n dha t t a is Ka l Bh aira v a
’

R egard i ng .

it Pa r ba t i (w ife o f S i v a ) said u n t o t we n ty -fi v e crores

,

o f the daughters o f the G a n dharv a s

(a )
n gels : Y our ‘

nuptials w il l be w ith p erso n s who shall have cast them

The N mad a Kha nd a w h ich p fesses t b e a p a t f the S ka nd a
a r
,
ro o r o

Pu a na A m e d etaile d acc u n t f t h H ly I sla nd n d its S h i nes

r . or o o e o a r

b y the auth W i ll b e f u nd i n the C e n t al P vin ces G a z ettee

,
“ ”
or o r ro r,
,

sec nd e d i t i n
o o .
1 82 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CENT RAL INDIA .

b l ock o f basalt smear ed with red pai nt before w hich he ,

must n ecessa r ily prese n t a n d prostrate himself ere he ,

mou n ted to the lofty pi nn acle w he nce to spri ng o n th e

idol E r e lo ng h e a r rived preceded b y r ude music
.
,
.

H e ap p r oached th e amorpho u s idol w ith a light fe e t ,

w hile a w ild pleasure m a r ked his cou nte n a n ce A s soo n .

as this sub sided a n d repeate d ly duri n g t he pai n ful

,

sce n e I addressed myself to him in the m ost urge n t

, ,

possible ma n n er t o recede from his rash res o l ve pl e dg

, ,

i ng myself t o e n su re him protectio n a n d compete n ce for

his life I ha d take n the precautio n to have a boat
.

close at ha nd w hich in fi v e m i nutes w ould h ave t r a n s

,

ported u s bey o n d the sight of the multi t ude I n vai n I .

u rge d him H e n o w m ore resolutely replied th at it w a s

.

b eyo n d h uman p o w er t o remove the sac r ifice o f the

po w erful Bhy r o o ; e vi n ci n g the m ost i n domitable de
t ermi n atio n a nd displaying so great a n i n fatu ation as
,
.

even to request m e to save hi m fr om th e fell dagger o f

“
the p r ie s t e s s f should h e safely alight u p o n the idol .

S o deep -ro o ted a delusion could o nly b e s urmou n ted by

force ; a n d to exercise that I w a s u n authorised While .

co n fro n ted w it h the idol his delusio n gai n ed stre ngth ;

,

and the barbarous thro n g ch eered w ith voice a nd han d ,

w he n by his motio n s h e i n dicated a total a n d continue d

d is r egard o f my persuasio n s to desist H e made his .

f -
o feri g of cocoa n uts first breaki ng o n e ; a n d h e
n ,

emptied i nto a gourd presented by the priestess his .

p r evious collection o f pice a nd co wr ies S he n o w .

tende r ed to him some ardent spiri t i n the nu t shell fi r st ,

T h p iestess he e efe e d t w
e r r p b ab ly the Bb l cust o d ia n
r rr o as ro cc

o f the sh i n e rThe e is n thi ng t o p eve n t the he e d ita y cust d ia n

. r o r r r o

f m havi ng b ee n a fe male at that ti me ; b ut p ie t

ro p p e ly r s esses , ro r

s p eaki ng have n eve existe d in I nd ia H ecei p t o f his c llecti on

, r . er r o s

f o m the p e p le als o i nd icates this c o nclusi n

r o o .
 T HE A BOR IGINAL TR I BES . 1 83

maki ng her s o n d r i n k some from his ha nd to obviate a ll ,

suspicio n o f its bei ng drugged A littl e wa s p oure d .

i n li b ation o n the idol S he hi nted to him to deliver

.

to her the silver ri ngs he w e r e I n doi ng s o he .

gave a proof o f si ng u lar c o llected n ess O ne o f the firs t .

h e took off he co ncealed i n his mouth till he had pre

se nted t o her all the rest w he n searchi n g amo ng the , ,

surrou n di n g cou nte n an ces h e poi n ted to a m a n to w ho m

,

he or d ere d this r m g to be give n I t w a s a perso n w ho .

had accompanied hi m fr om O oj e in A n eager n ess w a s .

n o w evi n ced by seve r al to submit bracelets a n d even

betel - nuts to his sacred t ouch H e composedly placed .

su ch in his mouth a nd retur n ed them The priestess

. .

f
at last prese n ted hi m w ith a p a nn l ea ff a n d he left
the spot w it h a firm step amidst the p laudits o f the ,

cro wd D u r i ng the latter half o f his asce nt he w a s

.

much co n ceale d fr om vie w by shru b s A t le ngth he .

appeared t o the achi n g sight a n d stood in a bold a n d ,

e r ect posture u po n the fatal emi n e n ce S ome shor t .

time he passed in agitated motio n s o n the sto n e ledge ,

tossi ng n o w a n d the n his a r ms al o ft as if employe d

in i n vocatio n A t le ngth he ceased ; a n d in slo w mo
.
,

tio n s w ith b oth his ha n ds made fare w ell salutatio n s ,

t o th e assembled multitude This do ne he w hirled .

,

do wn th e cocoa -n u t mirror k n ife a n d lime which he had

, , , ,

co n ti n ued to hold ; a nd step p i n g back wa s lost to vie w

fo r a m ome n t — a pause that caused the head to s wim ,

the hear t t o si nk a nd the fles h t o creep The next

,
.

s eco n d he burst u p on o u r ago nised sight i n a mos t man

L
f u l l e a p i desce n ding feet foremost with terri fi c rapidity
, ,

T he sual sig al f the te mi ati

u n or r n on o f a f o mal i nte vie w
r r .

T The p lace is calle d the B -

Kali '
ir
”
r o ck w hich I b elieve m ea n s
,

lite ally the m a ful leap

r n .
”
 84 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL I NDIA .

till ,
in
mid career a proj ecti ng rock re v erse d his p ositio n
, ,

a n d caused a h eadlo n g fall I nsta nt d eath follo w ed this .

desce n t of n i nety feet an d termi nated the existe n ce of ,

this youth w hose stre n gth o f faith a nd fortitude w oul d

,

have ador n e d th e noblest cau se a n d must comman d ,

admiratio n w hen feeli ngs o f h orro r h ave subsi d ed Thus .

1 ”
closed the truly ap palli ng sce ne .

With t he exceptio n o f th e m urder o f a poor old

w oma n w ho shra n k fr o m the fatal l eap w he n brou ght
to t he bri nk bu t w a s m ercilessly pushed over by the
,

excited r eligio nists this w a s th e last o f thes e sac r ifices

,

t hat w a s permitted the cou nt r y comi ng in 1 8 2 4 u n der ,

o u r admi nistratio n .

B ut the po wers o f evil w ere n ot yet to be baulke d

of their victims T he B r itish G over n me n t could
.

preve n t delu d ed and drugged devotees fro m casti ng

-
themselves over th e B r Kal f rock ; bu t it coul d n o t
i
dep r ive Ka li a n d K a l -B hai r av a of thei r fell executio n er
-th e cholera demo n Y ear by year the p estile n ce .

inva d ed the e n campme nts o f the pilgrims S an itary .

scie n ce w ould say that it arose fro m th e germs o f

disease brought from the festeri ng gullies o f the great
cities a n d p ushed i nto activity by th e exposure bad
, ,

food d e file d n eigh b ourhoo d a n d p oiso n ed w ater o f the

, , ,

pilgrim camps B ut th e H ind u s a w n othi ng in it b u t

.

the w rath o f th e offe n ded D ivi nit y claimi ng his

sacri fi ce Y ear aft er year the gatheri ngs w ere broken
.

up i n w ild disorder The v a lley of the cave the steep .

,

hillside a n d th at gree n glade i n th e S a l forest w ere

, ,

left to bury th eir dead w hile the multitude fled ,

a ffrighted over th e l a n d car ryi ng far a n d wide w ith ,

E xt act f m a lette f 2 9 t h o f N ve mb e 1 8 2 2 f m C a p tain

r ro r o o r, ,
ro

D o glas P li t ical A ssist n t in N i ma t t h R esi d e n t at I nd o e

u ,
o a r, o e r .
1 86 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

I h a d bee n eludi ng the tracks o f cholera the w hole o f

th e hot seaso n a n d had escap ed w ithout a si n gle case o f
,

the diseas e i n my ca m p My peopl e w ere almost ex

.

ha u s t e d w ith s uch a lo n g march in the height of the ho t

seaso n a nd I j oi ned them at the village like wi s e much ,

k n ocke d u p by a lo n g exploration in th e hills I fou n d .

m y te n t - pitcher a n d o n e o r t w o oth e r s w ho ha d arrive d

struggli ng to pitch the l arge te n t withou t the usual ,

assista n ce re n dered by th e vill a gers at the campin g

place They placidly told me that the village w a s n o
.

lo nger the home of the livi ng every o ne in the hou se s

,

bei n g dead o f ch ole r a ! The o nly livi ng o bj ect i n th e

p lace w a s a w hite kid w a n deri n g abo u t w ith a garla n d
,

rou n d its n eck I t w a s the scape -

. g o at w hich these
simple people after th e ma nn er o f the I sraelites o f o l d
, ,

se n d o u t i nto th e w il d erness o n su ch occasio n s to carry

w ith it t he spirit of the pl a g u e Tired out as we w ere
.
,

it w a s death to stay in this place so w e r e -loa d ed t he

thi ngs a n d marched eight miles fu r ther straight int o ,

th e j u ngle ; a n d at n ightfall p itche d o u r camp by the

ba nks o f t he w ide T a wa river far from human habita
,

tio n N o o n e w a s seized by th e d iseas e ; an d duri ng

.

a ll m m archi n g huma n ly s p eaki n g I believe o wing t o

y ,

proper san itary p recautions I never ha d a single cas e

,

i n m y camp .
 CH A PT ER V

TH E LA Y OF S AI NT L I NGO .

T H E Pa r dha ns ,
orbar ds o f the G o n d tribes are in
,

possession o f m a ny rudely rhyth mical pieces w hich it ,

is thei r fu nctio n to recite o n festive occasio n s t o their

assembled co n stitue nts to th e a ccompan ime nt o f t he
,

t wo -stri n ged ly r e The b est a n d most complete o f

.

these exte n di ng t o ne a rly a thousa n d b ars o r li nes

, ,

w a s laboriously take n do w n in wr iti n g fr om the lips o f

o n e o f these P a r dha n s b y th e late R e V S t ep he n H islop
n ,

o f the Free C h u rch o f S cotla n d missio n at N a g p u r .

But th e lame n ted death o f that i n defatigable i n vestigato r

i nto th e history a n d ma nn e r s o f the C e n tral I n dia n
p eoples p r eve n ted his furn ishi ng it in a complete form .

I n a collectio n o f hi s pa p ers a fter w ards published u n de r

t he editorship o f S ir R T e mpl e t his l ege n d ap p eared
.
,

at length w ith a tran slatio n o f each w ord as it stood

, ,

o n ly s o far modified as to co nfor m t o the first require

ments o f E nglish gram m ar I n t his guise although
.
,

w ell suite d t o th e purposes o f the stude nt the piec e ,

i s almos t u ninte ll igible to o r di n ary readers ; a n d if it ,

be co n sidered that the G o n ds have n ever had a ny

w ritte n la n g u age a n d that these p ieces have o n ly been
,

p reserved by tra d ition from o n e o f these t r o u ba d o u r s t o

1 88 T HE H IGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

a n other it w ill n o t b e surp risi ng that a good deal o f

,

rece nsio n is requisite before it c a n be made suitable t o

the ge ne r al reader W hether o r n o t th e piece has a ny
.

origi n al fou n datio n in pu r ely G o n d traditio n m ay be

m atter o f doubt ; b ut it is ce r tai n that it ha s becom e
g r eatly overlai d with the spirit and phraseology o f
H i n duism I t professes to recou nt th e creation o f th e
.

origi nal Go n ds at th e hands of H i nd u (S i va ic) d eities ;

w hat may be called t heir s ubseque n t fall through th e
e ati n g o f m eats fo r bidde n by H i nd u l a w ; their exil e

and impriso n ment by th e offe n ded H i nd u deity ; th e

appeara n ce by miraculous bi r th a nd life amo n g them
o f a H i n d u sai n t n amed L in o f w hom th ey u n r a t e
’

g fi g
fully p ut to death but who rises agai n a n d after mu ch
, , ,

p enance a n d s ufferi ng delivers the m fro m bo n dage

, ,

i n troduces H i n d u Observan ces th e arts o f agriculture

, ,

a n d the w orship o f tribal gods a nd eve ntually dis ,

ap p ears a nd goes to th e gods Th e p rogramm e thus .

bears a si ngular resembla n ce in ma ny respects t o th e

legend of H iaw atha the prophet o f the R e d I ndia n S
,
'

a nd to some an eve n more s t artli n g p arallelis m may

suggest itself .

My o wn opi n io n is that its origi n is comparatively

rece n t subseque n t t o the propagatio n amo ng the Gé nd s
,

o f H i nd u ideas a n d rules I t seems to possess little

.

v alu e as be a ri n g o n th eir or igi n assig n i n g to them a ,

n orther n desce n t w hich is co n tradicted b y the stro n g

,

souther n affi ni t ies o f their language a nd w hich is ,

o bviously o nly i n t roduced as p art o f the H i nd u

m achi n ery w hich pervades the piece A s a com .

This n a m e is p o b a b ly ty p ical o f the L ing et sect w ho

r a ,
a re

k no wn t have actively p p agate d the w shi p o f the Phallic S iv a

o ro or

i n the D ecca n .
 T I I E HIGHLANDS OF CEN T R A L INDIA .

that the o r igi nals o f th e t wo lege nds may n o t h ave

differed g reatly i n character ; a n d the close a nd curiou s
parallel is m bet w ee n the m could o nly b e brought o u t
b y the adoptio n o f th e method i n troduced by th e
“
author of H iaw atha a n d n o w familiar to th e public ,
.

”
But the nob l e savage o f N orth A m erica i s a very
“

differe n t characte r fr om the poor squalid G o nd o f

C e n tral I n dia ; a n d n o t eve n the ge n ius of a L o n gfello w
o r a Fe n i more C oope r cou l d thro w a h al o of sentime n t

ov e r the latter a nd his s u rrou n di ngs I have th erefore .

thought it best t o give full play t o th e g r otesqu e

ele m e nt i n the tale fo r w hich i t must he co nfess ed , , ,

t h e H ia w a t hia n style is p r ov o ki ngly w ell adapted I .

shoul d add that the serious stude n t o f G un d i nstitutio n s

h a d b ette r perhaps prefer the origi n al t o the v ersio n
, ,

n o w offe r ed .

I .
—T HE CREA T I O N AND T RI B ULA T I O N S OF T HE GGND S .

In the G len s o f S eve n M o u n S at no G ds o of G un d s am ng o

tai ns ,
*
the m .

Of the T welve H ills i n t h V l I y e a e s, G d s f o the n ati o n s sat the e

o o r r ,

I s t h m u n tai n L ing a w ng d
e o a a ,
E ightee n th eshing -flo o f o f B ah
r rs r

I s t h fl w e i ng t ee P h in d ;
e o r r a
’
i m i ns
t-
,

I n that d ese t f s p ea d i n g
r a r ou r S ixtee n sc es ? f T l ing a na
or o e s

T welve o u nd a se n d well
c oss r ro o But n o G d s f G on d s a pp ea e d
o o r

ing : the e r

Ca w sayi n g the e n c w w ,
r o ro a s F o m the G le n s o f S eve n M o u n
r

C hee sayi ng the e n b i d w ,

r o r a s tain s ,

R g h m sayi ng the e n tige

a u ,
r o r F m the T w elve H ills i n the
ro

wa s . Valleys .

A nd the G d s w e e g eatly o r r The n the S t o ng Go d K a t o r r

t ubled
ro . S u b al 1 ,

In thei heave nly c o u ts n d

r r a The fi t -b n f M a h a d ev a
rs or o ,

c u n cils
o Of the G eat Go d M ah a d ev a
r ,

The S a tp u m u ntai ns p b a bly he e efe e d t

ra o a re ro r r rr o .

1 S uch ex p essi n s use d th ugh ut the lege nd t d e n o te

r o a re ro o o
i nd efi ni te n u mb e s r .

I K a t i k S wa mi the n f S iv a (Ma h a d ev a) is thus te m e d i n

r
, so o r

t h lege nd
,

e .
 Tl I E L AY OF SAIN T LING O . 191

P n d e e d d ee ply i n hi b s m
o r s o o Whe n they fell u p n the d u ng o

O
’
era ci cu m stan ce cu i us
r so r o hills
P n d e e d m uch nd the n he
o r ,
a Thus at fi st w e e b n the K o it
r r or or

faste d , F m t h ha n d f K a t S u b al
ro e o r o .

D ev o tee-like p aye d n d faste d r a S n a ste nch b ega n t issue

oo o

F the c m i n g f the G in d G d s
or o o r o F m the f ests n d the m u n
ro or a o

F m the G le n s f S eve n Valleys

ro o tai n s
T the c u n cils f the G d hea d
o o o o . St n l
e f G un d that live d
c i o s so

P nd e e d thus till n his left han d

o r o f ully o .

R se a m st P te n t us Tu m u
o o or o o r, R se the ste n ch t M ah ad ev a
o o ,

Tu m u b il-like d nd g w
o r o ,
re ,
a ro T his m u n tai n D w l g i ffi
o o e a r

in g W athful the n b eca m e the G eat

r r

Bigge d aily d aily b igge

r ,
r, God,
Till it b u st n d f m its ce n t e
r ,
a ro r C alle d h i m esse nge N a a yan
s r r ,

Ca m e the K it ca m e they o o r,
*
S ai d he B ing these G on d s b
,
“
r e

t o p i ng r o ,
f em or e

S ixtee n th eshi n g - fl o they n m r o rs u Outcast w etches H o w thei r r

be ed r . stin k has
Ca m e n d s p ea d the m the S p ea d ll m y D w l g i
’ ’
a r o er r o er a e a ri .

c u nt y o r , The n the m essen ge N a aya n r r

O n t h hills n d i n the valleys

e ,
a ,
C alle d the K it all t gethe o or o r,

I n the a ches f t h f est r o e or ,

C alle d the m p t D w lg i i u o e a r

E ve y whe e they fille d the c u n t y ;

r r o r T the G eat G d M a h a d ev a
o r o ,

Killi ng eatin g eve y c atu e ;

, ,
r re r R ange d the m all in o w s b ef e r or

N thi ng k n w i ng f d isti n cti n ;

o o o o him
E ati n g clea n n d eati n g u n clea n a Inthe c u tya d o f the G eat G d
o r r r o .

E atin g w n d eatin g tte n

ra a ro The n the G eat G o d w ashe d his r

E ati n g squi els eatin g jackals rr , ,

b dy o ,

E ati n g a n tel p e n d s a m b a o a r, Washe d a little f the d i t ff o r o

E atin g quails n d eati n g p ige ns a o ,

F shi n e d it i n t the like n ess
a o o

E ati ng w n d kites
cr e n d vul s a a Of the Ki ng f S qui els o rr

tu es r ,
W a rch é
E ati n g D ku m a the A djutan t e ,
B eathe d the b eath f life i n t o it
r r o

E ating li z a d s f gs nd b eetles
r ,
ro ,
a ,
D wn b ef e the K it th e w it
o or o or r .

E atin g c w s n d eati ng calves

o a ,
S t aight the S qui el then his tail
r rr

E ating m ale nd fe male b uffal es a o ,

m ad e ,

E ati n g ats n d m ice n d b an d i

r ,
a , a S eeki ng p assage t esca p e the m o ,

c ts ; oo Je ki n g i n n d t a m ng them
r a ou o

S the G dn d m a d e n o d isti n cti n

o s o . A n d the G on d s b ega n t o chase it ,

F half a yea they b athe d n t

or r o ,
C yi n g C atch it c yi ng Kill
r ,
“
r ,

A n d thei faces n icely w ashe d n o t

r it

K it o is the n ati n al n a m e f all the G ond s f d i ffe e nt t i b es

o r o or o r r .

I t sign ifies p p e ly m n ro r e .

D w l g i i is n e f the highest p eaks o f the H i m alaya r a n ge ;

a r o e o

n d is he e use d as i d e n tical w ith K a il the mythic heave n o f S iv a ’

a r zi s , .
1 92 TH E H IGHL A NDS OF C E NT R AL INDIA .

L et us catch nd ski n n d eat it a a . A nd they hi d the m f ro m the G eat r

S m e t k sticks nd s m e t k
o oo a o oo Go d .

st n es o ,
N ow the go dd ess -quee n Pa r
S me t k cl d s n d o ff they
o oo o ,
a b u t t ee
scu ie d rr C on s t M d ev
o r she o f a ha a
A fte W a h é Ki ng o f S qui els
r rc ,
rr , O n the u tai
mo n slee p in g
n t op wa s ,

H i p-cl ths st ea min g o t b ehin d

o r u O n the t o p o f D e w a lg ir i .

the m Wake d she sh tly f m h or ro er

—
.

But the S qui el A tful D d ge rr r o r slu mb e r,

J e ki n g in n d
r t a m n g the m
a ou o “ ke d t
r
a fi n d a s o methi n g
o

P pp e d i n t a h le c n ve n ie nt
o o o o w a n ti n g
I n the m u n tai n D w l g i I n the i
'

o e a ri . f D w lg i i
a r o e a r .

A n d the G on d s all n i n afte ra r The n she g ieve d n d th ught r ,

a o

A ll b ut f o u that staye d b ehin d r w ithi n h er,

the m . Whe e n all m y G ond s hav

r ca e

The n a st n e t k M ah ad ev a
o oo ,
g ne t 2o o

A g eat st n e f sixtee n cu b its

r o o ,
Man y d ays hill is sile n t ou r ,

S hut the m u p w ithi n the cave n r O n ce that ech e d t thei sh uting ; o o r o

I n the m u n tai n D w l g i i ;
o e a r Man y d ays n s m ell ascen d eth o

S hut the m u p n d p lace d the Pleasa n t s m ell f G ond s asce nd ing ;

,

,
a o

dem n o My s w eet-s m ellin g G on d s w he e ,

r

M n ste h i d fi ce B m a
o r orr ,
er as su r they ?
a re

Place d h m gua d ian i the r o er

’
A n d my M a h a d ev a als ,
o,

e nt a n ce r . H im I see n t m uch I fea m o r e

A n d the f u that w e e e m ai n i n g
o r r r H e has d n e m y Gén d s a m i o s

S w iftly fl d f m D w l g i i e ro e a r ,
c h ief .
”

F l e d ac ss the hills nd valleys

ro a , A n d she g ieve d nd t o o k n o
r ,
a

F le d t hi d e the m f m the G eat

o ro r d inn e r,

G o d, P aye d n d faste d like a he m it

r a r

the ath f Ma h ad ev a D ev tee - like p e n an ce d i ng

,

Fro m wr o . o o

L n g t hey w an d e e d thus in
o r F h l st s w eet-m ll in g K o i t o
or er o s e r .

te o rr r, S ix m n ths thus she p aye d nd

o r a

But n hi d i ng-p lace d isc ve e d ;

o o r faste d ,

Till a t ee at last asce nd i ng

r ,
Till the Kin g o f G d s Bhag o ,

O n a bill a st aight- ste mm e d d ate r w an t a l ,

*

t ee r ,
S w i ngi n g in a s w in g n d s no o z in g a ,

The n ce l ke d f o th nd s w a
oo r a a By h p en a n ce g eatly m o ve d
er r

efuge r wa s
S w t h R e d H ills L h ug d a
a e ,
a a ,
M ve d ise nd l k a b ut him
o to r a oo o

The I n Valley Kachik p a

ro ,
o
’

. S e n t the m esse ng e N a ayan r r ,

The e they s p e d the m th gh the

r rou S e n t him f o th t D w l g i i r o e a r ,

f est or ,
S e n t t o see what she w u p t a s o,

This is i nte nd e d f Bh g wa n the u n w shi pp e d C eat f the or a ,

or r or o

H i nd us ( d p H i s i n t d ucti n he e as a m ythic l p e s nage

'

t z
'

c . ro o r a r o

is n t c o n s na nt w ith the usual p actice i n H i nd u w iti ngs

o o r r .
1 94 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL IND IA .

Thithe cli mb i ng o n the su mm it

r ,
Of a c eatu e w ith ut live
r r o r,

L i ng o w the t ee Man d it a
sa r ,
A ske d t o see it i n the f est or

S a w b e n eath i t K i a d i t a rs ,
L iving c eatu e w ith o ut live
r r r .

S w eetly - fl w i n g K i a dit a
o er rs . The n t he b the s m uch ro r co n

The e its p e fu m e s w eet i nhali ng

r r s id er e d

L i nge e d L i ng o f a little
r or . Whe e o n ea th they m igh t
r r

The n he clim b e d the t ee Ma n d it a r , d isc ve o r

C li mb e d nd l o ke d f o th o e the
a o r
’
r I n the f o est the m o u ntai n s
r or

f est or ,
L ivi ng c eatu e w ith ut live
r r o r .

T o the valley Kachik o p a O n suggeste d H e is little “

, e , ,

T o the R e d H ills L hug d a ,

a a . We b ig n d p actise d a m e s
a re , a r ro r

S w a little s m ke asce n d i n g
a o , Of the f est sha d es p i m eval
or r .

S w nd ve y g eatly m a velle d
a a r r r L et us t ake him t o the m u n tai n s o

A t this ci cu m sta n ce p te n t us
r or o . R ugh n d st n y t the thicket
o a o ,
o s

Wan d e e d n n d s n d isc o ve e d
r o ,
a oo r C l se nd th n y he w ill fagge d
o a or

I n that f est sha d e p i m eval

or r , be ,

Ma nlike f m s f u d isc ve e dor o r o r Thi st f w ate get hu ng y

r or r, so r ,

S w the f u G on d s that e m ai n e d
a o r r G la d he w ill b e t sit d w n n d o o ,
a

H i d in g fea ful o f the G eat G d r r o . G iv e u p l ki ng f a c eatu e

oo or r r

F est qua y havi ng st icke n

or rr r ,
L ivi ng c eatu e w ith ut live
r r ,
o r .

S teaks o f ve nis n w e e astin g o r ro , The n they t o o k thei b w s n d r o a

Pieces w at ti m es d ev u i ng
ra o r . a ws rr o

S eei n g L i n g u p they sta te d o r B o w s o f b a mb o f m the m o u n o ro

S eein g the m Li ng halte d ; ou r o tai ns ,

L ng ti m e ga z e d they at each the

o o r . S hafts o f b ul ush fro m t h e r

But the b the s i n w a d s p n d e e d

ro r r o r , m a shes r

B o the s f u w a b eth o ught

r r o r e re , A n d they w e n t b y d ee p est thickets
the m Of that f est sha d e p i meval
or r

Ku s the A n tel p e —they w it

, .

L et us take h i m f a fifth n or o e, r o sa ,

L et us take h im t w ig w a ms o our Kille d it f u n d it ha d a live o r

Ma w k the S a m b a —f u n d a n d
. .
,

Then they b o ught h im t thei r r o r o

w ig wa m s , sle w it ,

T o thei w ig w a m s i n the f est

r or F o u n d it als h d a live o a r

Mal ol the H a e —they s w nd

, .

A n d set m eat b ef e the i b o the or r r r . r a a

But he aske d the m w hen ce the kille d it ,

m eat w a s, I n it t they fo u nd a live

oo r

A n d they an s w e e d Of a w il d A ll the c eatu es h d a live

“
r ,
r r a r .

b a o r .
”
Ti e d n d w ea y w e e the B the s ;
r a r r ro r

The n he aske d the m fo its live ; r r L i ng o nly w n t w ea ie d

o a s o r .

A n d they s ught l n g fo the live o o r r, Thi sty ve y w e e the B the s ;

r r r ro r

B t n l i ve c ul d d isc o ve
u o r o r . C la mb e e d u p p o n a hill -
r t p u o

T hen they t l d him L o a o , ,

S eekin g w ate b ut they f u n d r, o

st a nge thi ng
r n ne o .

W i th ut l i ve is this c eatu e
o r r r C la mb e e d d wn again nd w n
r o ,
a a

We have slai n i n the f est or .

”
de ed r

Li n g laughe d at this c n ce p ti n
o o o Th o ugh a cl se nd th o rn y j u ngle
r o a ,
 T HE LAY OF SAIN T LING O .
95

Whe e a m n c ul d sca cely e n te

r a o r r . In a n h u t h fiel d w a fi nish e d
o r e s

The e they f u n d a s p ing f the G und sai d Mighty

.

r o r o A nd s ,

w ate r, Ling o

C l n d s p a kli ng in the sha d w

oo a r o . L o han d s w e e s e a nd
ou r r or

A n d they p lucke d t h e l eaves f o b liste e d r ,

Pu la s , H e w i ng sa d ly at n b ig t ee
o
o e
o
r
,

Makin g cu p s nd d ank the w ate s ,

a r r , Which w left still n d m l i he d
e u e o s

ef eshe d w e e f m thei Li ng d n e it !
.

A nd r r r ro r In n h u h
a o r as o o

lab u s o r . H e has levelle d all the f est ; or

The n sai d L i ng o Whe ef e ,

r or Black the lan d a pp ea s b el w it ; r o

stay ye ? Thick the ice is e wn u p n it ;

r s o

We have n t yet seen the c eatu e o r r ,

H igh a he dge i s aise d a u n d it ; r ro

L ivi ng c eatu e w ith ut l ive

r r o r . S ingle left n e nt an ce t it ; a r o

With ut live c eatu e is n t

o r r r o . S t n g a gate is p lace d b ef e it
ro or

A n d he sai d Then they se nd tu n e d the m

.

H e e in the f est ,
“
r or ro a r

L et us clea a fiel d nd p lan t it r a . h o m e wa d s r ,

D wn the t ees he e— let us fell

o r r H o m ew a d s w e nt they t o thei
r r

the m w ig w a ms .

A n d the g u n d h e e — let us d ig ro r S o n the ai ny seas on c o meth

o r

Black a little cl u d a p p ea eth

,

it o r

S ee d f ice he e —let us w it S t o ng the w in d s f o m heave n e

,

o r r so . r r ar
I w ill slee p he e f a little r or l sen e d
oo .

While ye clea a w ay the f est r or . A ll the sky is cl u d e d o ve o r

The n sle p t L i ng sle p t a n d o, N w the ai n b egi n s t p atte

o r o r

d ea m e d he
.

r ,
I n a w hile the st ea ms n k n ee r ru

D ea me d he o f t w elve th eshi n g
r r d ee p ,

p laces ,
A ll the h ll o w s fl o d e d b i mfull
o o r

fl o o that fu l l f G on d s Thus th ee d ays n d n ights it

.

Th h ing -
r es rs o r a

vver e . ain e d
r ,

A nd his s ul w g eatly t u b le d
o a s r ro The n it st p p e d as it b egu n ha d
o

se nd l ke d a b ut
.

A nd h e ro a oo o A n d the ice b egan t sh t p

r o oo u

h im . G ee n b eca m e the fiel d f L i ng

r o o

F u n d the B the s sa d ly he w i n g
.

o ro r ,
H igh as fi nge s f u it s p ute d r o r ro

H e w i n g sa d ly at a b ig t ee
,

r S p ute d thus high i n a d ay s ti me

ro
’

A n d thei ha n d s ha d b liste s o n
.

I n a m n th t w as s m e w hat highe
’
r r o o r,

the m , With a m an s k n ee it w level ’

a s .

Bliste s la ge as f uit o f A l a
r r r o . I n the f est sha d e p i meval
or r

A n d thei hatchets — d wn they

r o S ixteen sc es f D ee w e e or o r r

th e w the m r d w elli n g
A nd w e nt ff nd d o wn they o a C hief a m ng the m U n cle M a ma n
o

squatte d .

T hen Li n g u p n axe t k
our o a oo , Rich the d u eache d thei o o r r r

T o k n d he we d he at the b ig t ee
o a r ,
n ses o

H e w e d nd levelle d ll the f est

a a or ,
Of that ice-fi ld i n the clea i ng
r e r

F ll d the t ees nd g u b b e d thei Fi st the Un cle s n iffe d the d u

.

e e r a r r r o o r,

o o ts o t
r u A n d the N e p he w s n i ffe d it afte r .

0 2
1 96 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

T h the N e phew fetche d a

en Mo ng the mselves b egan i n this
’

gam b l o ,
w ise
U pw a d s lea p e d he j i t all
r ,
o n s
“
L eft b ehi n d is a n cie n t M a ma n ,

c acki g r n ,
H e the ve y W i se a m ng us r o .

A d his ea s w ith p leasu e c cki g

n r r o n . N w this Bha y l y uthfu l
o s a ,
o

T his U cle ea he t tte d

o n n r ro ,
N e p he w ,

A d he sai d My a cie t U cle H e m ust sh w us h w t o d o it

“
n ,
n n n ,
o o .

S ee this l vely fiel d f g ee stu ff

o o r n . U n cle M a ma n s p ake o f L i ng o ,

May w have it f e d inne ? or our r

”
S ai d that ve y sa p ie n t u n cle r
,

But the U n cle a n cie nt M a ma n , ,

L o k b ehi n d nd l o k b ef o e y o
o a o r u,

Wa ni ng chi d i ng s p ake in this

r , ,
E reye t uch the fiel d f L i ng
o o o .
”

w ise A n s w e e d the m the valian t

r

E y
re lea p t w
oue e w ise t l o k ’
r o o N ph w e e

w ell . Kee p n t c mp an y w ith a n cie n ts

o o ,

I n the valleys f the f ests o or F ull f yea s n d slack f si n e w s

o r a o ,

M n v fiel d s the e a
a f g ee n r re o r F ll w m — n d the n he b u n d e d
o o e
”
a o

stuff ; O
’
er the he d ge i n t the ice -fi l d o r e .

T uch ye n t the fiel d f Li n g

o o o o A fte hi m the R b ecs lea p t all
r e

nd g az e n s me else s L ea p t t h sixtee n sc es o f
’
G o a r n o o o e . e or

S ixteen sc es f R h s or ye ; o o ee a re R o hees
But f all y u n b le sixtee n
o o r o L ea p t they st aight i nt o the ice r r

N eithe b uck n d w ill left b e

r or oe fiel d ,

I f ye t uch the fiel d f Lin g

o o o . A n d the ice b ega n t g a z e o n
r o r .

The n s p ake Bha y l the N e p he w s a ,

S n the U n cle c o mi ng afte
oo r

S p ake d is d ai n fully i n this w ise By the he dge st o d nd l o o ke d o a

Ol d y nd
a re s m e w hat ou a o ve ; o r

fee b le ,
A n d his m th b ega n t w ate ou o r

We y u ng nd athe f isky
a re o a r r r L ike a d i pp i ng s p in g i n su mm e
r r r .

S eve n -f t -six a b ut the ma k is

oo o r B t n e n t a n ce see m e d t o ffe
u o r o r,

“ T
e n clea
ca a u nn in g high r r A n d his j i n ts w e e stiff nd o r a

j u mp fee b le ;
S tay b l nd Ol d Ni nk mpup
e ii a o S he staye d o utsi d e e p achful
o
,
r ro ,

They m ight catch y if y t ie d

,

ou ou r While th se sixtee n sc o es o f o r

it .
”
R b ecs e

The n h i ea s p icke d t w itchy

s r r Eat u p all the fiel d o f L i ng o .

w itchy , E at it u p nd b ack they lea p t all

,
a ,

A n d his ta i l c cke d je ky - p e ky o r r ,
S t d b esi d e that an cie n t M a in a n
oo
,

A n d w e n t f w a d t o the ice - fi ld
or r r e . W h i n w o d s f s le m n w is d m
o r o o o

A n d the U n cle d ee p ly thi n ki n g , , Wa ni n g chi d ing s p ake i n this

r , ,

G atly g ievi ng left b eh n d w

re r ,
i a s . w ise
But h sl wly f ll we d afte
e o o o r . H ea ye i xtee n sc es f
r, S or o

A t t h fe n ce t h N e p he w halte d
e e ,
R b ecs e

A nd p s p cte d f ro n e n t a n ce ;
e or a r O my c h il d e n my p chil d e n ! r ,
oor r

But n e n t an ce n whe e f u nd he
a r o r o ,
Ve y n icely ye have d n e i t
r o

For the sixtee n sc es f R h or o o ee s . E ate n u p the fiel d f L i n g o o .

A n d the sixtee n sc o es t o m utte r r Fathe L i ng he the p we ful

r o, o r
,
1 98 T HE HI GHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

Bit his fi nge s till the b l d ca me r oo Bu t the a w f m his ha nd fell rr o ro .

S ai d h S ea ch ye f the
e r or Th o ught he su ely he e s n m e n ,
r r
’
a o

f t p i ntsoo r That this ve y a ncien t M a ma n r

Of these sixteen sc es o f R o he or es . Of ice has n o thi n g take n

ou r r .

Then the B the r s b en t the m ro The n t n b egan the R hee

o ru o ,

d wn w a d s
o r , F e male R o hee that e m ai n e d r

S ea chin g cl sely f thei t aces

r o or r r , A nd t n b ega n the U n cle
o ru .

T aces n whe e that a pp ea e d

r o r r B the s l l b ehi n d them fo ll we d
ro r a o ,

Of the sixteen sc es f R h or o o ee s . S h uti n g C atch them t o each

o

S ea che d they l ng nd f u n d a
r o a o o the r .

f o t ma k o r ,
Bu t they va n ishe d a n d w e e see n r

S in gle f o tm a ks sca ce a pp ea ing

o r r r ,
no t .

Then ce the j ungle t o dd en d wn r o A nd the B o the s m uch d isguste dr r , ,

wa s Back et n e d t thei L i ng o
r ur o r .

To the f est sha d es p i m eval

or r . The n sai d L i ng S ea ch ye o, r ,

Fast they f ll w e d n the t aces o o o r , B eth e n r r ,

But the sixteen sc es they w or sa F or a fi e b x in y u w aist b elts

r o o r .

n ot . Fli nts nd steel they f th with

a or

S o on a Pee p ul t ee a pp ea e d r r b o ught t r ou ,

To w e in g high a b o ve the f est ;

r or S t uck a s p a k a m ng the ti nd e
r r o r,

C la mb e e d L i ng o t its su m mit
r o ,
But the ti nd e w ul d n t b u n r o o r .

L o ke d he f m it o e the f est
o ro
’
r or ,
Thus t h w h le n ight l ng they
e o o

S p ie d the sixtee n sc o es f R b ecs r o e ,

t ie d it r ,

R eb ecs i n the sha d e ecli ni ng r ,

T ie d i n vain u ntil the m n in g
r or ,

R oh sl ee p in g R h f isking
e es ,
o e es r Whe n they fl ng a w ay the tin d e u r .

I n the f est sha d e p i m eval

or r . A n d t L i ng sai d
o O B the o ,
ro r,

The n sai d L i n g t o the B o the s o r r Y u e a p p het n y te l l

o
’
r ro ,
ca ou

T ake y u b o w s nd take y o u
o r a r us
a o ws rr Why w e cann o t light this ti nd e ? r

Q uickly get ye u nd a b ut t he m An s we e d L ing o T h ee co s “

ro o ,
r r s
,

T the f o u si d es f the R h e
o r o o e s . nw a d
o r

S lay nd s p a e n o t s mite the

a r , L ives the G ian t Bika d Go wr e e,

ascals !
r H e the ve y d ea d ful M n ste r r o r,

H en ce m y b o lts I w ill d elive r . H e the te i b le D ev o u e rr r r .

The n the B o the s stalke d a u n d

r r ro I n his fiel d a fi is s m kin g ; re o

the m , T hithe g nd fetch fi eb nd

r o a a r ra .

T o the f u si d es o f the R o h ee s
o r The n the B the s w en t a little ro r ,

The n ce thei b ul ush shafts r r Wen t a ve y little o nw a d s r ,

r

d elive e d ; r T hen ce etu ne d nd sai d t o r r ,

a

Sh t o L i ng f o m the P ee p ul
ou r o r . L i ng o
S mitten w e e the he d o f R hees r r o ,
N o w he e s a w w e Bika d Go w ee
r r ,

O nly Ma ma n U n cle M a ma n , ,
N o whe e have w f u n d this
r e o

A n d o n little fe male R o hee

e
,
G ia nt
Of th se sixteen sc o es e main e d
.

o r r . Then sai d L i ng L my a ro w o,
“
o r ,

The n Li ng ai me d n a w
our o a rro By its p ath w ay see ye fo ll o w .
”

A t that Un cle a n cie nt M a ma n , Then he fitte d t his b o wst i ng o r

 T HE LAY OF SAIN T LING O . 1 99

S haft o f b ul ush st aight n d r r a By the fi e f m ighty t ee ste m s

r o r ,

slen d e r S te m s f M h wa ste ms f Anj a n

o o ,
o ,

S h o t it th gh the f o est thickets

r ou r ,
S te m s f S aj na ste m s f T ék t a
o ,
o

S h o t it cleavi ng th o ugh the r Bla z i ng d its gl w eflecte d

re ,
o r

b an ches r ,
F o m that f o m huge n d sha p e
r r a

S h t it shea ing all the gr ass

o r less
d o wn Of t h G ia n t R ik d G w
e a o r ee ,

C ut a p ath w ay st aight nd easy ; r a Of that ve y d ea d ful R a kshi s r r ,

Fell it ight i n t the fi e p lace

r o r Of that te i b le D ev u e rr o r r .

O f the G ia n t Bika d G w ; o r ee Then his k n ees b ega n t quake a ll o ,

Fell nd glan ce d it f o m the fi e

, a r r O
’
his b d y cam e c l d h d d
er o o s u ei s ,

p lace ,
L ea p t his live t o his th at all r ro ,

G lan ce d nd s p e d i nt o the d o o
,
a r L ea p t the live f A hk l r o es era .

Wa y But he c e p t u p t the fi e p lace

r o r ,

Of the W igw am o f the G ian t C e p t nd s n atche d a b la ing fi

r a z re

Fell b efo e the seven d a ghte s r u r ,

b and r ,

S eve n ve y n ice y o u n g w o m e n
r ,
Bla z i ng b an d f T ama d t a r o
’
i .

D aughte s fai f Bika d G o w r r o re e . G o an e d the G ian t fle d A hk ese l

r ,
ra ,

The n th se seve n n ice y o u ng o D o pp e d the fi e b a n d n d a

r r r ,
a

w o m en spa k fl w r e ,

T k the a w nd c n ceale d it
oo rr o a o . Fle w nd lighte d n the G ian t
a o ,

F o they ft ha d aske d the l d

r o o O n his sha p eless hi p it lighte d .

m a n, R aise d a b liste like a sauce ; r r

A ske d hi m w hen they w o ul d b e S ta te d u p the G ian t s w ea i ng

r r

m a r r ie d Al s feeli ng ve y hu ng y
o r r ,

A nd he al w ays an s we e d g uffly r r ,
Feelin g ve y m uch like eatin g r .

Whe n I ch o o se that y b e ou S w that ve y y o u n g A hk

a l r es era ,

m a ie d rr Plu m p nd lusc i us as a cucu mb e

a o r,

G o o d n d w ell if n o t y o w on t
a ,
u
’
S w h i m r u nn i n g n d
a n fte a ra a r,

be n d sh o ute d l o u d b ehi n d
”
. R n
a a

A n d they th ught this w a s a n o him .

me n o . But vain he fo ll o w e d after

in .

N o w the B o the s g eatly fea r r ,

r r F or the ve y y u ng A hk sera l r o e ,

mg S p ee d ing s wiftly th o ugh t h r e

L est they all sh o ul d eate n u p b e ,

f est or ,

C u n sel taking se n t the y o u ngest

o , ,
S h o tly van ishe d nd w a see n
r a s

S e n t A hk l the y u ngest e s er a o ,
not .

T p s p ect the G ia n t s qua te A nd the G ian t m uch d isguste d

’
o ro r rs .
, ,

By that p ath way st aight nd r a Then etu n e d t hi fi esi d e

r r o s r .

easy A n d A hk es a l etu n i ng er ,
r r ,

Went this ve y y o u ng A hk es l r era T o l d his g eatly t emb ling r r

S w the G ia n t s s m o ke asce n d i ng ; b o the s

’
a r r

C mi n g nea e w the G ian t

o r r sa . Of that ve y d ea d ful G ian t r r .

S a w h m like a sha p eless t ee

i ,
r But the ve y valian t Li n g o r

t u nk r ,
S ai d R e p se ye he e a little
,
“
o r ,

S l ee p i ng b y the fi e a n d s no i ng r r I w ill g o n d see this m nste a o r

20 0 T H E HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

That so much has d isc

p se d L ke d i thickets l k e d i om o oo n ,
oo n

y ou .
”
h ll w s o o ,

A t the c ssi g f a ive ro L ke d i t ee-t p s n o thi g r r, oo n r o no n

I that st a ight
n d easy p ath w ay
r fi di g an ,
n n ,

L i g w the stick VV d ud a
n o sa W d e e d w he e ea th it ca m a on r r on r e

Fl ati g d w u p the cu e t
o n o f mn on rr n . ro ,

S w he t
a a b ttle-g u d t ee
oo C a me that st ai f heave l y
o o r r ,
r n o n

S w it g w i g b y the ive
a ro m u sic
n r r ,

Pulle d a b ttle -g u d f m ff it Like the wa b li g f t h Mai a

o o r ro o ,
r n o e n .

F ishe d Wa d u d a f m the ive Back etu i g t his fi esi d e

ro r r, r rn n o r ,

S tuck the i t t h the on e S at d w st d u p sat d w

n o e o r, o n, oo ,
o n,

Plucke d t w hai s w he e w ith t o st d u p r r o oo

st i g it r n L iste e d w d e e d at the music ;

,
n ,
on r

Ma d e a b w d keys eleve o Ju m p e d d d a ce d he t the

an n, an n o
Playe d a tu e t w d f u d he
n m usic
or o, a n o n ,

H a d a p assab le guita S u g d d a ce d he t the m usic r . n an n o

Please d w L i g d p cee d e d
as R lle d d tu m b le d b y the fi
n o, a n ro o an re

T t h fiel d f R ik d G w
o e osi d e a o r ee

R ik d G w
a lyi g s i g
o T t h w a b li g f the m usic
r ee n no r n o e r n o .

By the fi esi d e m uth w i d e r S at d ay b eak his l d w ma

,
o oon r o o n

g p i g a n ,
H ea d that st ai f heave l y r r n o n
Tushes h i b le d is p layi go rr m s c n ,
u 1

Lyi g l glike w ith hi eyes shut C a m e she w d e i g t t h fi

n o s . on r n o e re

C l se b y g e w the t ee calle d
o si d e r r
,

Pee p ul S wh
,
ld m w il d ly d a ci g a er o an n n
Pee p ul t ll w ith s p ea d i g H a d s utst etchi g feet u p lift
a r n n o r n ,

b a ches r n
g
. in ,

Quickly L i g cla mb e e d p it n H ea d b ack eeli g d a ci g

o r u , r n ,
n n ,

C li mb e d al ft i t its b a ches
o tu mb li g n o r n n ,

S at d hea d the m i g c ck T that st ai f heave ly music

an r orn n o o r n o n .

c w ro , S w d w d e ed w d calle d a a n on r ,
sa an

Th ught this G ia t s
o w ul d t n o on o ou

w ake n . A cie t hus b a d f lish ld n n n , oo o

The h t k his b a j J a tu
n e oo m n o n r, an

S t uck a te that s u d e d L ke d he at h thi g sai d he

’

r no o n oo er , n o n ,

s w eetly D a ce d d tu m bl e d t the m usic

, n an o .

Playe d a h u d e d tu es u p it S ai d she liste i g t that music

n r n on .
,
n n o ,

L ike a s g its m usic s u d e d ;

on I m ust d a ce t The she o n n oo .
”
n
A t its s u d the t ees w e e sile t ;
o n pe ed r r n o n
S t d the m ighty hills e a p tu e d L se the b d e f h ga m e t
oo nr r . oo or r o er r n ,

E te e d the that st ai f m usic D a ce d d tu mb le d t the m usic

n r n r n o n an o .

I t h ea s f R i k d G w
n e r o The sai d L i g a L my o r e e, n n o, o

Q uickly w ke h im f m his o J a tu ro n r
slu mb e ; T thy st ai
r f heave l y music o r n o n
Ru bb e d his eyes d l ke d a b ut D a ce this l d m an d his
oo o n o an an
hi m wom an
202 T HE H I GHL A NDS OF CEN T RAL IND IA .

Go a nd s m ite the b u n d in g o re d With it th ashe d th se G ian t s r o

’

ee d r, d aughte s r

B i ng its live t thei L i ng o

r r o r ,
Th ashe d the m till they b e l l o we d
r

G athe w il d fl w e s f r thei
r o r o r l u d ly o ,

L i ng o, Fle d n d o a e d like Bul l s o f

a r r

“ h ile th se S iste s seve n sh o ul d

T
o r Basha n ,

s w i ng hi m ,
Fle d n d hi d the m i n thei w ig
a r

S wi ng hi m ge n tly as he slu mb e e d r . w a rn s .

The n the ir b w s a n d a o ws t oo k o rr So on t he B o the s b ack

r r re

they ,
tu n ing r ,

T o k n d sta te d t o the f o est

o a r r . B i ngi ng ga m e n d b i n gi ng w il d
r a r

A n d the siste s s w i n gi ng L i n g r o fl w e s o r ,

Thus b egan t o say a mo ng the m F n d thei L i ng o quietly slee p

ou r

S ee th i s L i ng wh s o le mn o o so mg ;
A s this b the o f o hus b a nd s
ro r ur S iste s r n on e his s w i ng w e e r ro ck
N eithe laughs he n eithe s p eaks
r ,
r i ng .

he ,
Much ast nishe d they b et o o k
o ,

N eithe l ks he eve n at us
r oo . the m
H e m ust laugh n d s p eak a n d ,
a ,
T the w ig w a m s f the S iste s
o o r .

gam b l o ,
But ha d sca ce b egu n t o sc o l d r

Must this ve y s le mn L i ng o r o the m

L et us p i n ch nd p ull n d hug a a E rethey f u n d the ta b les tu n e d
o r

h im .
”
P etty fell w s a e y u t uly !
r o r o r

And they p ulle d h i m b y the a m s r ,

T hus t leave y o u r w ives b ehi nd
o

P ulle d his feet nd p in che d his a y ou

a ms r A nd g o hu n tin g i n the fo est r ,

But the m e they p ul le d a nd or While y o u ve y h o ly L in g r r o

p i n che d him T ies his a ts u p o n o vi tue

r r ur r .

A ll the s o un d e sle p t o L in g o r ur . We have quite m a d e u p o ur

T i ll the siste s vexe d t o fi nd him r ,

m in d s n w o

N thi n g ca i ng f thei t o yi ng
o r or r ,
N t t o stay a no the m i n ute
o r ,

T k t hugging athe cl o sely

oo o r r ,
But t take u r b e d s nd wa d
o o a r

H ugge d that ve y vi tu o us L in g o r r ,
o b es
r ,

T i ll they w ke hi m f o m his o r A nd etu n t o w he e w ca me

r r r e

slee p i ng . f m ro

I V t hf l the n w a s h o ly L i n g T ou p d eceive d p a p a j ”
ra u o, o r oor

A t t h w a n t n G ian t s d aughte s ;
ese o
’
r The n the B o the s sai d a mo ng r r

R se the fla me f i nd ign ati n

o o o the m
F m his b ts u p t o his t e p
ro oo 0 that si n ful w icke d Li n g ! ,
o

kn t ; o H w the villai n h
o d eceive d us a s

L ke d a b ut h im f a w ea p o n
oo o or ,
Whe n w e o ffe e d hi m the fai est r r ,

F or a w ea p n t chastise the m o o N he w a nte d n o ne h t ol d us ;

0 ,
e

S w a p estle ha d n d heavy
,

a r a ,
C alle d the m siste s calle d the m r

Pestle m a d e f huski ng ice w ith ;

,

or r m the s o r

B o u nd e d f m his s w i ng nd ro a N w t o p lay o m ean a t ick o n

o s r

sei z e d it , U s w he n hu nti ng i n the f o est r

 T HE LAY OF SAIN T LIN G O . 2 03

L et us get hi m t o the j u n g le ,
A nd etu n i ng s ftly hi dd e n
r r o

Kill hi m the e nd p ul l his eyes

,

r ,
a By the ste m f S a ka tu o re ,

out . F o m thei b w s f u a w s s p e d
r r o o r rro

H a es n d a n tel o p es w e ve hu nte d
r a
’
, they ,

N ow w e ll hu nt o little L i ng
’
ur o . Bul ush shafts at h o ly L i ng o
r ,

B ea d o w ate let us t o uch n o t

.

r r r S p lit hi skull w p ie ce d his

s a s, r

Till we ve p laye d a ga m e o f
’
n eck w a s,

m a b les r C left the live w f L i n g r a s o o .

With the eyes f faithless L i ng o o . D o w n he d pp e d nd t his ro ,

a ou

T he n they w e nt n d w ake n e d a l i fe p asse d ,

L i ng o, By the T ee calle d S a k a t a
r re .

S ayi ng ,
R ise y u ngest ,
ou r o The n a k n ife they t o k a n d o

b the ro r .
”
g uge d hi m
o ,

A n d he se n d w o nd e i n g aske d
ro ,
a r O t the eyes they b e d f L i ng
u or o o

the m I n a h le they p ut the b d y ;

o o

Why late they ha d etu n e d

so r r ,
S t e w e d it o ve w ith s o m e
r r

B i ngi ng n thin g f m the f est

r o ro or . b an ches ;
r

A nd they ns we e d L a a r ,
o, Pul l e d s m e leaves nd m a d e a
o a

C eatu e r r ,
g b leto

Mighty st o n g a pp ea e d b ef e us
r ,
r or F or t h b o e d - t eyes f L i ng
e r ou o o

A nd w fo ught h im w ith
e ou r Tie d it u p in t a w aistcl th o o ,

a ws rr o , H ie d the m h me wa d t thei o r o r

But this m ighty C eatu e fell n t r r o ,

w ig w a ms
N eithe fle d he ; c m e the n w ith
r o C alle d thei W ives nd lit s o m er ,
a

us . t ches
or ,

The n se L ing nd b ef e them

ro o, a or Bla z i ng t ches m a d e f fl
or o ax

S talke d he n in t the f est o o or ,

stalks ;
T o the f o est -
sha d e p i m eval
r r . Playe d thei h i d ga m e o f r o rr

L o o ke d f t aces o f the C eatu e

or r r r m a b les r

I n the g ass a m n g the b ushes

r ,
o With the b e d- o t eyes f L i ngo
or u o .

But this m ighty C eatu e w n o t r r sa . S the B o the s f u

o f L i ng
r r o r o o

T hen they sat the m d wn n d o a A nd t h seve n n ice y u ng

e se o

este d
r wo me n
By the t ee calle d S a k at a
r re . C hucke d hi eyes a b ut like s o

A n d the B the s w e n t f ro w ate r or r, ma b les r

Wen t nd p ond e e d h o w t o kill n h u s ti m e b y the t ch

’
a r F or a o r or

hi m l igh t .

I II —T HE R ESURREC T I O N OF LI NG O AND DELI VE R Y ,

O F T HE G O N D S .

In the C o u t o f g eat Bh g w nt a l
r r a a L ay the b d y f thei L ingo o r o

S at the D eities sse m b le d a W o n d e e d m uch b ut n o thi n g

r ,

S at they in the U pp e W o l d r r ,
k n e w they
W on d e ing whe e in ea thly
r r ,
r I n w hat egi o n it ha d fa l len
r .

r egi o n s ,
Then Bh g w nt a l t k a b asin
a a oo ,
2 04 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

Washe d a littl e f his b o d y o ,

A nd d es p atche d him w ith K gé a su r

Washe d a little f the d i t ff o r o To the valley Kachik pa o ,

T k nd m a d e f i t n i mage ;
oo a o a To the R e d H i lls L hug da ,
a a .

B eathe d the b eath f life i nt it ;

r r o o Fle w the R ave n st aig ht b efo r re

Mad e K g és L d f R ave ns
a ur , or o . h im
A m it s p i n kle d he u p o n it
r
*
r . R eache d the p lace the n K a t r o

F m h i h n d elease d it sayi n g
ro s a r , S u b al
S ea ch the f ests sea ch the
r or , r T k the flask o f heave nly A m it
oo r ,

m u n tai n s
o ,
P u e d it o his w u nd s n d
o r
’
er o a

S ea ch the valleys sea ch t h

r ,
r e b uises r
,

ive s
r r ,
S titchi ng u p the chiefest O p e n i ngs
For the b o d y o f my L in g o . I n hi hea d n d his a b d me n
s a o .

The n K gé L d o f R ave n s
a su r, or ,
S o o n his eyes b e g an t p n l o O e ,
' '

H e the ve y b lack nd cu n ni ng
r a ,
And h w the L d f R ave n s
e sa or o

S wiftly s p e d him o n his e a nd ; rr T h g h t h d sle p t a little s u n d ly ;

ou e
’
o

S ea che d he fi st the U pp e
r r r A ske d the m H a d they seen his ,

R egio n s ,
B the s ? ro r
”

T he n ce d escen d e d t the Lo w e o r A nd w ve y m uch ast u n d e d

a s r o

S ea che d thei hills nd gle n s nd

r r a a \V he n they t l d hi m h w they o o

f ests or ,
f u nd him
o

T ill he eache d the I n Valley

r ro ,
G ge d n d b utche e d b y his
ou a r

I n the R e d H i lls L h ug d a ,
a a . B the s ro r .

Pee e d a m ng the f est thickets

r o or ,
The n he th ught p e ha p s t w e e o r
’
r

S w the t wigs that c ve e d L i n g

a o r o, b ette r

L o ke d b el o w the m f u n d
o ,
o ou r N w t leave this l t f B o the s
o o o o r r ,

L i ng o, A n d thei seve n n ice y o u n g

r

L ki ng h i d w ith hi eyes t
oo orr ,
s ou ,
w m en o

S p lit his k ll n d p ie ce d his s u ,

a r A n d g seek th se the S ixtee n
o o o r ,

live r . S i xtee n th eshi ng-fl f K it

r o o rs o o or .

H ie d him b ack t g eat Bhag o r S o the S t n g G d n d t h ro o a e

w a nt a l ,
R ave n
T l d the d o leful tale f L i ng o
o o . H ie d the m b ack nd t l d Bhag a o

The n the G o d sai d H a I see it , ,

w nt a l a

By hi b i th -p lace has h falle n

s r e ,
Of thei su ge y successful
r r r .

By the fl w e i ng t ee Bahi n d i
o r r .
”
A nd Li ng R d i m
our o e
’

uu s

T he n h se n t f K a t S u b al
e or r o ,
\V n d
a d sa d ly th ugh the f est
er e ro or ,

G ave a flask f h eave nly A m it o r I V nd

a d n ac ss the m u n tai n s
er e o ro o

( Ba d e h i m w ell t shake the o T i ll the d a ke ni ng f the eve ni n g

r o ,

b ttle ) o ,
Wan d e e d u ntil the night fell
r 0 11 .

For exte n al a p p licati n

r o S c ea m e d the p an the i n the
r r

T the skull n d n eck n d live

o a a r f o est r ,

Of the g uge d nd b utche e d o a r G wle d the b ea u p on the m u n

ro r o

L i ng o tai n ,

The w ate f i mmo tality r o r .

T I t is n t elate d h o w these o r or ga ns w e e est o e d r r r t o h im .

2 06 T H E HIGHL A ND S OF CEN TRAL INDIA .

I f y o w ish it I w ill tell y

u F m y u cave i n D w lg i ou . ro o r e a ri .

O ur g eat M ah a d ev a caught the m The n the G eat G d m uch d is

r ,
r o ,

A n d has shut the m u p secu ely guste d r ,

I n a cave w ithi n the b w els Offe e d all he ha d t L i ng o o r o ,

Of his m u ntai n D w lg io Offe e d ki ng d m n a m e nd iches

e a ri ,
'

r o , ,
a r ,

“7 1t h a st n e f sixtee n cu b its
o Offe e d a nythi ng he w ishe d f
o ,
r or ,

A n d h i s b ull d g fie ce B m a o O nly leave y u sti nking K it o

r a s sur . o r o r

S e ve the m ight t I c n si d e
r r Well shut u p i n D w lg i i
o o, o r
,
e a r .

F i lthy casteless
,
sti nki n g B t o L i ng all efusi ng
,
u ur o r

w etches r W ul d have n thi n g b ut hi s o o

A n d the H e m it t his g o tt o r K it o r o or

Back etu n e d r n d d ee p ly p n
r G ave a tu n t n the th n s a
,
a o r o ru or

de ed r L ittle d ee p e i n his m i d iff r r .

O n t h d ays that f g tte n “ i n d the G eat G d Ve y “

I
e a re or o ,
ce r o ,
r

O n the u n e m e m b e e d ages
r w ell the n r

L i ng w an d e e d n T ake y u G rin d s —b ut fi st a
.
,

But our o r o o r r

w a ds r ,
fav u o r .

Fasti n g p ayi ng d i n g p e nan ce ; By the sh e f the Black Wate

r ,
o or o r

L ai d h iin n a b e d f p ickles
,

o L i es a b i d they call Black Bind o ;

o r ,
v r

Th n s l n g n d sha p a nd p ie e Much I w ish t see hi y u n g n es

or o a r r o s o o ,

i ng L ittle Bind f m the sea- sh o e os ro r

Fasti ng lay h d ev tee-like e F n ffe i n g b i n g these Bi n d s

o ,
or a o r r e ,

H an d n t lifti n g f t n o t lifti n g The n y u Gé nd take f m my

o ,
oo ,
o r s ro

E ye n t p e n in g n thi ng seei ng
o o m u n tai n
,
o . o .
”

T welve m nths l n g thus lay nd

o The n o L i ng o se nd wa n
o a ur ro a

faste d ,
d e ed r ,

T ill his fl sh w d y nd w ithe e d hV nd d o n wa d s th ugh t h

e as r a r ,
a e re r ro e

A n d the b n es b ega n t sh o w
o f est o or ,

th o gh r u . Til l he eache d the s o u nd i ng sea r

The n t h G eat G d M ah ad ev a
e r sh e o or ,

Felt hi seat b egin t t e m b le

s Reache d the b i nk f the Black
o r . r o

Felt his g l d e n st l all shaki n g

o Wate oo r,

F m t h p e n an ce f o L i n g
ro e F o u n d the Bi n d o b i d s w e e h
o ur o . r r a

Felt nd w o n d e e d w h n ea th
,
a r se nt o o r

This d ev tee w that w fasti n g F o m t h ei n est p n the sea

o a s a s r r u o

Till his g l d e n st l w shaki ng

o sh e oo as . or ,

S te p p e d he d w n f m D w lg i o A b se n t hu n ti n g in the f est
ro e a ri ,
’

or ,

C a m e nd w t h at b e d f p ickles H u n ti ng ele p ha nts p d igi us

a sa o r ro o ,

I Vh L i ng lay nm vi ng
er e o u r Which t h y k ll d n d t o o k thei
o u o . e i e a r

A ske d h i m w hat his little gam e b ai n s t

_

r ou ,

w a s, C acke d thei skulls n d b o ught r r ,

a r

V h y h i g l d en t o l w shaki ng ? thei b ai ns t
V
s o s o a s r r o

A n s w e e d L i ng Mighty R ule
r Fee d thei cal l w little Bin d
o,
“
r r o os,

N th i ng less W i ll st p that sh aki ng Waili n g sad ly b y t h

o o -sh o e e s ea r .

Tha n m y S i xtee n S c es f K it S eve n ti mes a fea ful se p e nt

or o o or r r ,

R e nd e e d u p all safe nd hu tless Bh w nag t h h o i d se p e nt

r a r a ar e rr r ,
 T HE LAY OF SAIN T LING O .

S e p e n t b n i n cean s cave ns
r or C al lo w w aili ng little Bi nd s
o
’
r , e

C o mi ng f th f om the Black O n it lai d him like a p ill w

.

or r , o

A n d b egan agai n t o slu mb e

,

Wate r, r

H a d d ev u e d the little Bin d

.

o r S o o n etu n e d the p nt Bind o os r r a re s

B d s o f call w little Bin d s
ro o
Waili ng sad ly b y t h sea-sh o e
F m thei hu nti ng in the f est
o e ro r or
B i n gi ng b ai ns n d eyes f ca mels
e r ,
r r a o

I n the a b se n ce o f thei p a e n ts A n d o f ele p han ts p d ig i us

,

r r . ro o

Eighth this b o o d w S t o d F thei little call w l i nd s

,

r a s . o or r o o

ou rLi ng Wailing sa d ly b y t h sea -sh e

o, e or
S t d he p nd e i ng b esi d e the m But t h Bind s y u n g nd call w
.

oo o r e e o a o

I f I take these little w etches B ai n s f ca mels w ul d n o t r r o o

I n the a b se n ce f thei p a e n ts s w all o w

o r r

T hey w ill call m thief nd b b e S ai d A p etty set f p a e nts

e a ro r . r o r

N I ll w ait till they c m e b ack Y

o
’
t uly thus t leave us
o ou a re r o

he e r .
”
S a d ly w ailing b y the sea—sh e or

The n he lai d him d o w n n d T o b e eate n b y the se p e nt a r

slu m b e e d r Bh w n a g the d ea d ful se p e n t a ar r r

By the little w aili ng Bi n d s C a m e b u p f o m the Black Wate e . e r r,

A s he sle p t the d ea d ful se p en t C a m e t eat us l ittle Bin d s

r r ,
o e ,

R isi ng ca m e f m the Black When this ve y valian t Li ng o

,
ro r

W ate
"

r, S h t n a o w in his st m ach o a rr o ,

C a m e t eat the call o w Bi nd s

o C ut h im i nt o seve n p ieces e ,

I n the a b se n ce f thei p a en ts G ive t Li ng b ai ns f cam els

o r r . o o r o

C a m e h t u n k -like f m the E yes f ele p ha nts p d igi us

,
”
e r ro o ro o

Then the f n d p ate nal Bin d

.

t vva er s , o r o

C am e w ith fea ful j aw s d iste nd e d S w the hea d-p iece f the se p en t

r ,
a o r

H uge nd h o i d L ike a b asket U nd e L i ng s hea d a p ill w

a rr . r o
’
o

An d h sai d
.

For the w i nn w in g f c n o o O valian t L i ng

or e , o,

R se a h d f vast d i m en si o n s
o oo oA sk w hateve y m y w ish f r ou a or

his fie ce nd d ea d ful visage The n he aske d the little Bin d e s

.

’
O er r a r .

S h ieke d the Bind os y u ng n d F o n ffe i ng t the G eat G d

r o a r a o r o r o
A n d the f n d p ate n al Bi n d
.

call w o ,
o r o,

G ave a y o f la m e ntati n
cr Much d isguste d fi st efusi ng o ,
r r ,

R se o Li ng
o ur w the M o nste ; S n c n se nte d sai d he d g t oo
o sa r oo o
’
o

D e w n a w f o m his quive
r a r ro With the f n d m ate nal Bin d o
r r, o r

S h t it s w ift i n t his st mach

o T ake the m all u p n hi sh o ul d e s
o o ,
o s r

S ha p n d cutting in the st mach A n d fly st ight t D w lg i

,
’
r a o ,
ra o e a ri .

T he n an the nd a n the o The n he s p ea d his m ighty p i n i on s

r a o r r
,

C left hi m i nt o seve n p ieces T k his Bin d s u p n o n si d e oo e o e

W iggle d all the seve n p ieces

r A nd o L i ng o n the the ,
ur o o r

W iggle d b ack w a d s t the w ate Thus they s a e d aw ay t gethe

.

r r o r . o r o r

But L i ng s wift a d va n ci ng
ou r F m the sh o es o f the Black
o, ,
ro r

S ei z e d the hea d -p iece in his a ms Wate r ,

r .

K n cke d the b ains u t o n a A n d the fo n d mate n al Bin d

o r o r o,

b ul d e o r, O r the m h o ve i ng s p ea d a n
’
e r ,
r

L ai d it d w n b esi d e the Bin d os

o awn i n g ,
2 08 T HE HIGHLAND S OF C EN T R AL INDIA .

With b ad
h er ro a nd m ighty T he the G eat
n r God, m uch
pi i s n on d isguste d ,

O
’
er h ffs p i g
er o r n a nd o u r L i n go . D ive n quite i n t a c n e
r o or r,

By the f ests n d or a the m o u n To ok L i ng t the cave n

our o o r ,

tain s S e n t B ma t hi ke n n el
a s su r o s ,

S ix m n ths j o u n ey w it thithe
o
’
r as r H el d his n se nd m o ve d a w ay o ,
a

T the m u n tai n D w l g i
o o e a ri
'
. the
H alf the d y w sca cely ve a a s r o r Mighty st n e f sixtee n cu b its ;
o o

E re this c nv y f o m the sea o o r C alle d th se S ixtee n S c es o f

o or

sh e or G é nd s ou t ,

L ighte d safe o n D w l g i e a ri
’
Ma d e the ve t o thei L i ng
m o r r o .

T uche d the k n cke o n the gate

o o r A n d they sai d 0 Fathe ,
r

L i ng o

Of t he G eat G d M ah a d ev a r o . Wha t a b a d ti m e w e ve ha d o f it ’
,

A nd the m esse nge N a a yan r r N f thi n g t fill

o ; a b ellies o ou r

An s w e i n g w en t n d t o l d h i
r ,
a s I n this h i d gl m y d u nge o n
o rr oo .

m aste r But L i n g gav e the m d i nn e

our o r,

L this ve y valian t L i ng
o, r o G ave the m ice n d fl u f m i l let
r a o r o

H e e he is w ith all the Bin d s

r e ,
A n d they w e n t ff t the ive o o r r,

The Black Bi n d s f m the sea e ro H a d a d i nk n d c ke d n d

r , a oo a

sh e or .
”
eat it .

I V —SE T T LE M EN T OF T HE G O ND S AND P ASSIN G OF

.
,

LING O .

T hen they se n d fo ll o we d A nd the A lligat o Pus e

ro a r ,

Li ng o, L o m i n g l n g u p n the w ate o o o r,

F ll w e d n w a d s t the f est
o o o B e the G on d s i nt the t o e nt
r o or ,
or o rr

Th o ugh the b lack n d r a i ng

,

F m the m u n tai n D w lg i i
ro o e a r r a o r

F ll w e d n till n ight d esce n d e d

o o o w ate ,
r

A n d b ef e the m w a ive
or A n d the R ive -Tu tle D a m é
sa r r, r r

D a k n d s w lle n w ith the t en t With o L i ng f ll we d afte

r a o orr ur o o o r .

Bu stin g d w n f m D w l g i i
r S o n the faithless A lligat
o ro e a r ,
o o r,

F m the s n w s o f D w lg i i
ro I n the d ee p n d
o a i ng w ate e a r . a ro r r,

O n that ive n thi ng w they

r S li pp i n g f m b el w his ca g
r o sa ,
ro o r o,

B at n aft t w aft the m ve

o or r L eft the m fl nd ing in the w ate
,
o o r . ou er r .

N thi n g
o w they i n the t o e n t
sa Then o L i ng st etche d his rr ur o r

l t the A lligat
u P us e han d t or ,
ou ,

A n d the R ive - Tu tle D a me Fishe d the m t u p n the Tu tle

r r ,
ou o r

Playi ng lli ng i n the w ate ro Faithful D a me b e the m n w a d

,
r . or o r

L in g calle d the m t that b lack nd a i ng t o e n t

,

The n ou r O o o
’
er a ro r rr ,

hi m ,
B e the m n ac ss the ive or o ro r r .

C alle d the m b the calle d the m A nd the S ixtee n v we d t che ish

ro r, o o r

m the o N a me o f D a me w ith the m eve

r r,

B u n d w ith aths t b ea the m

o W ho ha d b n e the m safe nd
o o r or a

ve o r . hu tless r
210 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL IND IA .

Thus he ta ght the m H ly T the G d s I w m g i g

u
,
o o o no a o n .

Li g n o T he h melte d f m thei visi ; n e ro r on

A d his last w d s the
n he t A d they st ai e d thei eyes t
or n u n r n r o
t d
ere see him .

Kee p y u p m ise t the T tle B t he a ishe d

o r ro o d w urs e u v n an a s e n
the R iver-
, ,

To Tu tle D a mé r no t .

o ux ns OF T HE SA H P URA R A N GE .
(F r om a P ho t o g r a p h .
)
 C H A PT E R V I .

TH E T EA K R E GI ON .

ON th e 2 8t h o f March having seen o u r forest lo dge ,

i n a fair w a y to com p letio n I left the P u ehmu r r e e ,

plateau a nd entered o n the first o f many lo ng j our n ey s

,

o f exploratio n amo n g the forests of the S eo n i C hi n d ,

w a r a a n d B et u l districts
,
I have already described .

these as bei ng situated o n the great central table -land

o f th is m ou n tain ra n ge fro m the ce n tre o f w hich j uts ,

u p th e still higher formatio n called the M a h a deo (or

P u eh mu r r e e) grou p The ge neral elevation o f th e table
.

la n d is about fe et above the sea ; but this ge n eral

level is broke n by n um erou s mi n or proj ecti o n s besides ,

th e great o n e o f the M a h a deo ra nge w hich ge n erally ,

exhibit the peculi a r fla t - topped outline o f hills of the

trap fo r ma t io n l The overflo w of basalt has indeed
.
><

b ee n n early u n ive r sal over all this vast regio n the ,

g r eat M a h a deo sa n dsto n e block a nd a fe w isolated ,

peaks o f g r a n ite k n o wn at once by thei r sharp an d

,

spli ntered peaks bei ng the only notable breaks in the

,

Man y f these is late d hills b ei ng fl t -t p p e d n d su mo u nte d

o o , a o a r

b y p eci p it o us sca p s
r n d f eque n tly fu n ishe d w ith d e p essi n s in
r ,
a r r r o

w hich ai n- rw ate c llects rn atu al f o t esses o f

o , n al mo st i mp eg
a re r r r a r

n a b le st e n gth ;
r n d w ith the a dd iti n
a ,
f s o m e u d e mas o n y w ks o o r r or ,

w e e gen e all y o ccu p ie d fo this p u p o se b y the hill C hiefs i n f o m e

r r r r r r

ti mes .
212 T HE HIGHLANDS OF C EN T RA L INDIA .

great volcan ic ocean To j u d ge fr om the great ex t en t

.

-
o f table la n d lying at about t he elevatio n o f feet ,

this w ou l d appear to have bee n the origi nal level o f

the tra p overflo w the high er peaks o f that formation
, ,

w hich reac h in a fe w p laces to feet being more ,

probably th e result o f su b sequ ent u pheaval Th e plateau .

has ho w ev er b ee n generally d e n u d ed by th e larger

, ,

streams to a depth o f ab out feet w here they ,

still r u n over volca n ic beds at the l evel o f t he g reat

southern plain of the D ecca n The exte n t o f l evel
.

plateau is thus mu ch diminishe d o n the o n e han d by

,

th e ramificatio n s o f th e drainage system an d o n t he ,

other by th e higher ran ges a nd the long slopi n g valley s

,

w hich connect them w ith th e pl ateau .

I have calle d this volcan ic region als o the regio n

of the teak tre e in C e n tral I n dia I t is s o g en er a lly
.
,

but strictly s p eaki ng th e teak tree does n o t actu ally

, ,

co nfi n e itself t o th e tra p formation ; n o r o n the other ,

ha n d is th e t eak th e only o r even the pri n cipal

, , ,

t imber tree o f the tra p country N o su ch close li nes

.

of d istinctio n exist in n ature b ut the coi n cidence is

, ,

I thi n k s u fli ci en t t o w arrant the i n ference o f some

,

l ink o f connection bet w een them More o r less teak

.
,

is scattere d all over this region but the p rincipal forest s

,

are fou n d cli n gi n g t o the skirts o f the higher ra nges

risi ng from th e ge n eral level o f the plateau The more .

exte nsive l evel portions o f the cou n try h ave lo n g been

clea r ed o f j u ngle fo r purposes o f cultivatio n an d for ,

a l o ng w a y arou n d thes e settlements the forests have

bee n h a cked do w n i nto mere s crub fo r the commo n
requi r eme nts i n timb er an d fuel o f the people Th e .

outer slopes o f th e plateau to w ards the l o w er p lai ns

, ,

have also b ee n lo n g ago s w ept of all valuable teak

214 T HE HIG HLAND S OF C E N T RAL INDIA .

fitted for the great fu n ctio n of vegetation at that season ,

in b r eaki ng the direct impact o f the rai n torre n t o n

th e soil of the hill slo p es w hich w ould other wise soo n
,

e n d i n deprivi n g the rocky skeletons of the hills o f

th eir coveri n g of ear t h a n d vegetatio n Bu t this foliage .

is very decidu ous a nd by th e mo n th o f M arc h little

,

o f it remai n s o n th e tree The n the yello w brittle

.

fallen leaves in m any places stre w th e grou n d so thickly

as t o make silent w alki ng impossible A s a facetious .

friend o n ce expressed it in a very u nn ecessary w hisper

, ,

w he n w e w ere tryi ng to creep u p to a st a g s a mbar i n

”
such a cover I t wa s like w alki ng o n t in b oxes .

Forests co ntai ni n g a ny great n umber o f tolerably

large teak trees are ho w ever no w extremely fe w ; a n d
, , ,

as I h ave said t he teak has bee n i n discrimi nately hacked

,

do w n for every s ort o f pur pose for man y generatio n s , ,

over n early th e w hole area w here it is found A mo n g .

its numerous other valuable qualities h o w ever it , ,

i n clu d es that o f rapi d ly thro w i n g up a head o f tall

sle n d er poles from the stumps if they are al l o w ed ,

t o remai n in th e ground I n five yea r s this coppice

.

w oo d will attai n a h eight o f t w e n ty - fi v e o r thi r ty

feet a nd a girth o f o n e to t wo fee t S u ch p oles are
,
.

i nvaluable i n a cou n try w here h abitatio n s are in grea t

—
m easure very small a n d built o f w ood alo n e far more
,

v a luable i n fact tha n larger timber which is o n ly

, , ,

u seful for the exceptio n al class o f stru ctures comprisi n g

the reside n ces o f w ealthy perso n s E uro p ean houses , ,

a nd public edifices I t w a s thus perhaps scarcely

.
, ,

very surprisi ng that w h e n w e s udde nly dema n d ed fro m

the fo r ests a large and perma n ent supply o f l arge timbe r
fo r o u r rail w ay system w e fou n d that they could n o t
,

afford it though it by n o means foll o ws that the forest s

,
 TH E T EA K REGI O N . 215

w ere not in
a usefu l state to meet the ordi n ary require
ments o f the cou ntry .

O ur t r eatme n t o f this questio n o f the teak fo r ests

is a good example of the difficulties i n I n dian a d minis
t r a t io n w hich a r ise from th e abse n ce of accu r ate i nfe r
mation o n t he real requireme n ts o f the cou ntry a nd ,

the obstacles i n the w a y o f reco n cili ng the co n ditio n s

o f a l o w a n d almost statio n ary stage of society w ith

n ineteenth - ce n tu r y progress a nd high -

“ ”
pressure civili
,

satio n I n the cry for great timbers fo r o u r rail w ays

.

w e totally fo r g e t ,
or n eglected the dema n d of the
,

m asses o f th e populatio n fo r small timber for their

houses a n d m any other purposes We shut u p every .

acre o f the teak - produci ng country w e could a nd ,

referred them to i nferior sorts of w ood all the best ,

species besides teak havi n g been t a bo oed alo n g w ith

it Th e other species of timber w he n used you ng
.
, ,

m ostly d ecay in a year o r t wo in a n I n dia n climate ;

a n d so the people w ere pu t to a vas t u nn ecessary
exp e n diture of lab our in re ne w als w hile w e strove , ,

by pr u n i ng a n d preservi ng to make lar ge timber gro w

,

ou t o f th e scru b by coppice w ood w hich had before

s upplied their w a nts a n d as it proved str ove e n tirely
, ,

i n vai n This pollarded t eak w ill n o t gro w straight a n d

.

la r ge pru n e w e n ever so w isely I t w ill gro w w ell

,
.

to a ce r tai n si z e th e si z e the n atives require it but

, ,

after t ha t it decays a n d t wists into eve r y variety

o f tortu ous shape Wha t w e shoul d have do n e wa s
.

t o reserve the best fo r ests for timber purposes proper ,

a n d a p p l y to the rest — the vastly greater part o f them

only su ch measures as w ould e nsure the best a n d

qu ickest productio n o f c o ppice w ood fo r the require
m ents o f th e p eople I t has been said that they should
.
21 6 T HE HIGHLANDS OF C EN T RAL INDIA .

learn to do as E uro p ean n ations do conver t large trees ,

to smaller sca n tli ngs by the s a w as it is an u n d oubted ,

fact that forests yiel d a larger aggreg ate supply o f

timber w hen the trees are allo w ed to mature The .

a rgume n t is o n e o f a sort too readily applied to many

I n dian subj ects Theoretically it is tru e e n ough a nd in

.
,

the distan t future it m ay be realised Bu t in th e .

mean time th e people have n o t the capital w here w ith to

do it even if th e large timber w ere gro w i ng rea d y fo r
,

them w hich it is n o t
, .

O f other trees than teak these forests pro d u ce a

great variety som e produ ci n g highly ornamental w oo d s
,

for fancy p urposes other useful in the arts a nd a

, ,

goo d m any w hen fully matu red a n d seasoned cap abl e

, ,

o f al most s u l a n t ing teak for ordi n ary building purposes

pp .

The useful sorts ho w ever o n the w hole b ear a very l o w

, , ,

pro p ortio n to the great mass fo r w hich no general

u se has as y e t been found R oun d the settlements t he .

valuabl e sorts have m ostly been extermi n ate d a n d

such p arts as are n ot actually u n d er t illage are covere d
w ith a scrub com p osed o f such thorny species as A c a c i a
A r a bi c a
,
A c a t ec hu Z iz yp hu s J uj u ba
.
,
a n d others , .

I t is r emarkable I thi nk ho w the thorny s p ecies

, , ,

w hich are the b est armed t o resist d estruction h ave ,

thus w o n th e race for life in such tracts .

V ast areas agai n do n o t produce a nd do not see m

, , ,

to b e cap able o f pro d uci ng a ny s p ecies b ut s u ch as are

, ,

from th e soft n ess o f their timber almost useless t o t he ,

carpenter A typical example o f such a tract is fou nd

.

i n th e upper valley o f the T a p t f river a river w hich ,

forms so good an example o f th e streams of this region

as t o be worthy o f some descriptio n R ising among the .

w estern s p urs of the M a h a deo range it fl o w s for a s hor t ,

21 8 T HE HIGHLAND S OF C E N T RAL IN D IA .

specific gravity bei ng s o l o w that a great bulk of it has

t o be t ra n spo r ted in compariso n w ith teak a nd other
ha r d w oo d s t o p r oduce a give n effect Y et it produ ces
.

excelle n t charcoa l a n d is perfectly adapte d fo r most

,

or di n ary pu r p oses of fu el ; a n d w herever the carria ge o f

,

better sorts from rem ote parts has re n dere d thei r use
m o re expe n s ive the S a lei has b ee n actually used i n stead
,
.

This poi nts t o a n oth e r mistake w e have hithe r to made

i n o u r I n dia n forest r y .U n d o ubte dly this a n d o t her soft
w ood t r ees shou l d have b ee n fo r ce d i nto commo n use by
the people as fuel lo n g ago i nstead o f o u r givi n g w a y to
,

thei r o u tcry for hard w o ods a n d b a mb oos the us e of ,

w hich should b e co n fi n ed to ce r t ai n special requ ireme n ts .

The Bo s we l l ia possesses o t her propertie s w hich w il l ,

proba b l y at some futu r e time re n der t hese great desolate

t r acts o f hi g h eco n omical value I t yields a fragra nt gu m
.

resi n w hich is burn t as i n ce n se in H i n d u t emples

, It .

w a s l o n g th o u ght to be th e O liba n u m of the a n cients ,

emplo y e d for a simil ar purpos e ; but D r B ird w ood i n a.

,

pamphlet a ttempte d t o sho w that t his su b stance w a s

,

p r ocure d fr om other sp ecies of th e Bo s well ia i n cou n trie s

t o th e w est o f I n dia . I t is h o w eve r si ngula r that its
, ,

S a n scrit n ame la ba na should still s o closely resembl e

,

t h at o f antiquit y ; a n d it may perhaps b e doubte d if

our k n o w ledge of t he a n cie n t comme r ce of I n dia s uffices

to exclude I ndia from the list of cou nt ries w hich
co nt r ibute d the fra n ki n ce n s e of the Bo s we llia to th e
fa nes of heathe n gods I t is highly p r oba b le that some
.

much m o r e ge n e r al utilit y w o ul d be fou n d i n this gu m

re s i n w ere the atte ntio n of p erso n s capable of testi ng
,

it d r a wn t o the su bj ect I t is als o n o t u nlikely that t he

.

s oft w oody fi b re of th e tree w ould p r ove t o b e adapte d

fo r the ma n ufacture of coarse paper or cloth S hould.
 T HE T EA K REGI O N . 219

a ny ec o n omic value b e fou nd to attach to a ny por t ion o f

the t r ee the supply w ould b e p r actically u n limited ; and
,

rep r oduction o f t he forests w ould b e easy in the extrem e ,

large stakes w he n s tu c k in t he grou n d du r i n g the rai n y

seaso n rapidl y taki ng roo t a n d shooti ng i nto trees .

This quality o f th e tree has rece ntly b ee n take n

adva n t a ge o f by t he rail w ay compan y for the c o n
st r uctio n o f live fe n ce - posts o n w hic h t o stretch their
fe n ci ng w ires Th e S a lei is of a highly social cha r acter
.
,

emula t i n g in this r espect the S a l (S ho r ea ) but ad mi t ,

tin g in a greater d egree than i t the compa n io n s hi p

of other spec ies The principal of these are t he S aj
.

( P en t a
p t e ra
) ; th e To r ch w ood tree
w ith i t s b rig ht yello w so l itary flo w ers gleami ng o n the
ext r emities of i t s n aked bra n ches ; a n d the I r o n w ood
tree (H a r cl wic hia hina t a ) w hich is p erha p s the mos t
,

graceful fo r est t r e e in these regio ns .

T he as pect o f these vast forests of the B o s well ia ,

of w hich t he cou ntry about t he Ta pt i is a specime n ,

a nd w hich cove r
,
I should sa,y full y one -hal f of the
w hole o f t his t r ap regio n is v e r y r emarkable
,
D u r i ng
.

th e height o f t he m o ns o o n (July t o O ctobe r ) the gras s

is gree n a n d t he t rees have th r o w n o u t a thi n foliage of
,

small b r i g ht gr ee n pi nn ated leaves

,
. The river beds ,

too are t he n fi l le d by foami ng torre n ts a nd the fe r vour

, ,

of the s u n is moderated b y a ca n opy of gray clou d s .

A t t hi s seaso n o n e m igh t almost mistake t he valley

for a sce n e i n s ome n or t he r n primeval w il derness Bu t .

r a d u a ll v as the clouds clear o ff a n d t he rain ceases

g ,

a cha n g e occur s The rive r s s hri n k in the ir b eds ti ll a

.
,

tr ickl i ng stream in a w ide b ed of boulde r s represe n ts

th e resistless mou ntai n torre nt of a mo n th b efore ,

w hil e t he highe r gu l li es a r e utte r ly drie d u p The

.
2 20 T HE HIGHLAND S OF C E N T RAL IND IA .

grass tur n s fro m gree n to yello w and bri stles w ith a ,

terrible armature o f p rickles like needles o f st eel w ith

,

the bar bs of a fi s h- hook w hich catch in each other and

,

m a t together i nto m asses W o e b etide th e undefen d e d

.

p edestria n in grass like this U nless defe n ded by

.

leather before h e has gon e half a mile every stitch o f

,

his clothi ng w ill be run through a nd through a nd ,

p i n ned to his flesh by multitu d es of these barb s ,

cau si n g the most i ntolerable pai n The foliage o f the

.

S a lei w ithers a nd droops after a fe w w eeks of s un n ing ;

a n d its nake d yello w stems the n fill the prospect like a

v a st a rmy of skeletons . Bu t this stage is not even th e

w orst . I t co nti n u es till the mo nth o f A pril introduces
the torrid summer seaso n w he n the fierce s u n laps up
,

th e last p articl e o f moisture in th ese basaltic regions .

The n t he g r ass h as becom e like ti nder a nd a thousand ,

a ccide n ts m a set i t o n fire Th e t r aveller droppi ng a

y .

light from his pipe the w ind carryi n g a spark fro m an

,

e ncampme n t o f j u ngle - hau nti n g Ba nj a r a s the torch o f ,

the belated traveller a nd should it escape these acci

, ,

d ents then certai nly the d eliberate act o f the gra z iers
, ,

w ho bri n g herds o f cattle w ith the first fall o f r ai n i n

J une i n to these t racts t o graz e o n the resulti ng n e w
crop o f grass w ill start a j u ngl e fire w hich nothi n g can
,

stop till it bu rns itself o u t E arly i n the ho t season it

.

is a fi n e sight to w atch a t n ight the lo ng creepi ng red

li n es o f th e j u ngle fi res o n dista nt hill - sides F r om the .

hill fortress o f A s i rgarh the eye ra n ges o ver the w hol e

o f th e u ppe r T a t i vall ey ; a n d at this season th e w hole
’

p
cou nt ry appears at night ri nged w ith these li nes of fi r e ,

c urvi ng w ith the curvature of hills ; here thi n a nd

scarcely visible w here the gr a ss is sca nty o n a bare
hill - t op ; there flari ng thro u gh tracts o f lo n g ele p han t
 T HE HIGHLAND S OF C E N T RAL I NDI A .

m oist substratum that is never e n tirely p arched u p a nd ,

carryi ng a gree n er grass w hich it is h ard t o bur n a n d ,

o fte n a coveri n g o f forest trees Most o f these tracts .

have bee n at o ne time reclaime d to the p lo u gh ,

a n d thickly po p ulated That w a s in t he d ays w he n

.

the Ma ho m ed a n V ice r oy o f t he D eccan held court at

th e city o f Burh a np u r som e fifty miles l o w er d o wn
,

th e valley a nd great a rmies marchi n g bet ween th e

,

D eccan a n d H indostan ha d to b e fed The bays in .

th e valley are still d otted o v er w ith the sites o f th e

vi llages o f those times a n d w ith th e r ui n ed forts a n d
,

tombs a n d m osques o f their Ma ho m e da n rule r s N ear .

the a n cie nt site o f S aj n i the chief to w n o f o ne o f

,

t hes e tracts ,
may b e see n a b anyan tree of immense
spread w h ose tru nk has embraced and lifted bodily
,

fr om o ff th e grou n d th e dom e d m a so n ry tomb abou t

u
p ,

t w elve feet i n all di me n sio n s o f some M oslem notable , ,

a n d so e n velo p ed it w ith its thousa n d folds that n o t o n e

sto n e o f it is t o b e se e n outside w hile passi n g i nside by , ,

a n arro w openi n g the arch of the dome a n d the w all w ill

,

b e see n t o b e almost p erfect A Moslem coul d scarcely .

desi r e a fitter e n tomb ment tha n to be suspe n ded thus

b et w een heave n a n d earth like the proph et of his faith
, .

I t is n o w som e years si nce t he malaria o f the en

c r o a c hin
g j ungle a n d fami n e i n the cou n try ca u sed by ,

the failure o f the rai n s o f heave n a n d the stil l more

te r r i ble strife o f m e n desolated these settleme nts i n th e
,

T a p t i valley . The rank j u ngl e the n sp r a n g o n the

dese r ted clea r i ngs re n dered fertile to w eed as to cereal
,

by th e labour of m a n a n d has n o w cl othe d them w ith

,

a thicket o f vegetatio n o f such thick ness a nd guarded ,

by a m iasma so deadly as to ba fll e all attempts at

,

re n e w ed occ u pation by t he H i n du culti vators de n sely

 T HE T EA K R EGI O N 2 23

c ro wded in the a dj oi ning o p en country H ere a nd

.

t here the Kork u s w hose co nstitutions seem impervious

,

t o mal a ri a have settle d d o wn o n some n eigh b ouri ng

,

risi n g groun d a n d b uilt a nea t little village of S w iss

,

like cottages o f bamboo a nd h ave cleared and tilled

,

t he o p ener p arts o f the valley raisi ng such crops o f

,

w heat o n the unexhausted black soil as are the envy

o f the l aboriou s tiller o f -
th e hard used la n ds in th e
o uter valley .But it is a t errible and u n equal struggle
bet ween the aborigine eve n so far reclaimed as th ese
,

Kork u s are a nd th e j u ngl e w ith its imme n se a n d

,

u n remitti n g stre n gth o f vegetatio n a n d tribes o f

,

n oxiou s w ild beasts E ve r y no w an d again the heart

.

o f the Kork u fails him a n d he a ba n do n s the co n test

, ,

flitti n g o ff to some hill - side w here he may m ore easily

co n te n d w ith axe a nd fire agai n st the less exubera n t
vegetatio n o f the thin mou n tai n soils On the whole.
,

h o weve r the ha b its o f the Kork u s o f th e T a pt i valley

are a g r eat adva n ce o n those o f the tribes i nhabiti ng
the M a h a deo hills further east Their cultivatio n is
.

performed w ith the bullock plough instead of the axe ,

a n d is o f a mu ch more perma n e n t character Their.

villages an d houses are mu ch more substan tial a nd are ,

sel d o m cha nged ; a nd habits o f p r ovide n ce a n d steady

i ndustry have been developed amo ng them w hich are
unk n o w n t o either G o nd o r Kork u o f other parts .

Much o f this may n o doubt be du e to their fortu nate

, ,

o ccupation o f a cou n try w here cultivatio n by a n nual

cutti ng do wn the forest is scarcely possible o wi ng to ,

the sca n ti ness o f timber and o f soil o n the slopes o f

the hills w hile the n eighbourhood o f so large a city
,

as Burh a np u r must al ways have fu r nished them w ith a

regular a nd remunerative marke t for their produce .
224 T HE HIGHLAND S OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

Th e grass - burni n g u n iversal in th e j u ngles o f thes e

,

p rovinces is u n d oubte d ly be n eficial in a great variety o f

,

w ays . I t allo w s a nd a ssists by th e m a n u re o f the ashes

, ,

a crop o f gree n a n d te n der grass -shoots to appear for th e

grazi n g o f vast herds o f cattle w hich form great part o f
,

th e w ealth o f the p eo p le in the neighb ourhood o f j ungl e

tracts I t kills multitudes o f s nakes a n d noxious i n sects
. .

I t probably preve nts m u ch m alari a that w ould aris e

from the vegetatio n if gradually allo w ed t o decay I t .

destroys m u ch o f th e harbour for w ild beasts A n d .

th e ashes n o d oubt form a valuable i ngredie nt in th e

d eposit s o f soil carried do wn by the drai n age o f these
hills to l o w er regio ns an d in the cultivabl e crust
,

gradually formi n g in thes e u pla n ds themselves I t has .

bee n hel d by s ome that these fires are very i nj uriou s

t o th e g r o w th o f sapli ngs o f teak a nd other valuable
trees . But it is an u n doubted fact that teak see d s
w il l germi n ate a n d p roduce see d lings w here th e gras s
h as b ee n fired b etter t h an w here it has not ; an d it
is n ot w ell establishe d that m u ch p erman e n t i nj ury is
a fter w ards d one to the seedli n gs .

The labou r o f ex p loring s uch forests as those I have

d esc r ibed duri n g th e ho t s easo n w he n alo n e they a r e
,

s u fli c i en t l open a n d free from m alaria is imme se

y , n

day after day t oili n g over those i nterminable basalti c

ridges w here m a n y march es have often t o b e mad e
,

w ithou t m eeti ng a n inhabitant w ithou t ofte n a si ngl e

,

g r ee n tree for shelter an d depe n de n t for w ater o n a

,

fe w stag n an t pools pud d le d up by the feet o f w il d

anim als This w a s w h at often fell to the lot o f the fores t
.

offi cers of th ose early days I doubt if ma ny of the m

.

w oul d h ave go n e on w ith the task but for the love

o f sport a nd adve n ture w hich probably led to thei r
226 T HE HIGHLANDS OF C EN T R A L IN DIA .

hills B ut n o a n imal chan ges its locati o n so m u ch

.
,

acc o rding to th e seaso n of the year abu ndan ce o f fo o d , ,

etc as the s a mbar Wherever th e biso n is fou nd

.
,
.
,

the s a mbar is ce r tai n to b e as w e l l ; but his ran g e

’
is n o t s o co nfi n ed as th e biso n s b ei n g mu ch mor e ,

toleran t o f th e propi n quity of m a n a n d o f gra z i n g

herds o f domestic cattle While the crops o f the table .

lan d a n d lo w er plai n s are gree n the h e r ds o f s a mbar

com e o u t to feed on th em at night remai ni ng duri ng ,

the day n ear th e edge o f the j u ngle u n less disturbed ,

a n d drive n i n to the depths of th e fo rest by man The y .

also feed h o w ever o n a great var iety of j u ngl e

, ,

p roducts ; a n d m ove about i n a p parently th e most

cap riciou s m ann er in sea r ch o f them The s hor t .

gree n grass that cl othes th e banks of pools a nd

spri ngs a nd th e te n der s he e t s o f you n g trees a n d
,

bushes may b e said to be at all times th e fou n d ation o f

"

t heir fare a n d duri ng th e rainy season almost th eir only

,

resource L a ter o n in late au tum n t he you n g w heat

.
, ,

a n d grai n crops o f neigh b ouri n g cleara n ces are m ade t o

pay heavy toll ; a n d w ith th e c omme ncement o f th e hot

seaso n comes a great variety of w ild fruits a ll greatly ,

relishe d by th e deer A t o n e time (M arch a n d A pril )

.

it is the luscious flo w er o f the Mho w a tree w hich they ,

share w ith the Gun d a n d th e bear a n d most other

a n imals a n d bir d s The Te n d u th e Chir o nj f th e A o l a
.
, , ,

the Bhér a nd many other tre es also fruit p le ntifully in

, ,

spri n g ; a n d a little later the pods o f n ume r ous species

o f acacia chiefly Ba bulfi R e u nj ém Khei r 1 a n d o f the
f
,
L
,

tamari nd s w hich have ove r g r o w n ma ny d eserted village

sites a n d the fruit o f several species o f w ild fi g § am p l y
, ,

A A r a bi ca
. .
I A c a techu
. .

1 A L eu cop hlce a
'

. . F i ndi oa , F
. . r el i g i o s a ,
a nd F g a l er i a
. .
 T HE T EA K REGI O N . 227

su pp ort th e s a mba r through the hot seaso n Whe r ever .

a ny o f these are ple n tiful the r e the marks o f n ightly

,

visits by s a m b ar w ill be fou n d in the mor ni ng Bu t by .

the earliest break o f day the a n imals w ill have d is a p

p ea r e d ; a n d,
havi n g dru n k w ell at s ome n eighbouri n g
w ate r w ill proba b ly be w ell o n their w a y to thei r r esti ng
,

plac e fo r the day For the n ext hou r or t w o they are

.

’
ofte n t o b e fo u n d at a fe w miles dista n ce appa r e n tly ,

loiteri n g about but all the time slo w ly maki ng their

,

wa y in a ce r tai n directio n high er up the hills a nd to

,

w ards de n ser co v er a n d keepi ng a h eedful w atch o n

,

possibl e pursuers A s they pe n etrate d ee p er i nto the

.

w aste cou nt r y their w atchful n ess dimi n ishes but they ,

generally take a lo ng a n d kee n s u rvey o f all their s u r

roundi ngs before lyi ng d o wn for the day A t all times .

but th e rutti ng seaso n (O ctober a nd N ovember) the

heav y o l d stags remai n mostly solitary a fe w you ng ,

a nimals o nly remai ni ng w ith the herd which co n sists o f ,

t en t o fiftee n i ndividuals The o l d stags u sually travel

.

deeper i n to th e forest a n d higher u p the hills b efo re

lyi n g do w n th a n the herd w hich is ofte n fou n d w ithi n
,

a mile or so of their feedi n g grou n d I n all cases a .

patch o f lo ngish g r ass is selected and a regular for m ,

like that o f a hare is made by each i n dividual E ach .

for m is usually i n the shade of a small tree the side o r top ,

o f the hill ,
w here g r ass is lo n g b ut trees n o t very
n umerous or thick bei ng preferred to very de nse thickets
,

a n d it is curious w ith w hat skill th e spot is selecte d ,

s o that the dee p est shade s hall fall o n the form at about
’
three o clock in the aft ern oo n w hich is the h ottest
,

portio n o f th e day H u ndreds o f forms will some

.

times b e fou n d in o ne locality every o ne o f the m ,

a t precisely t he same poi n t o f the compass fr o m its

2 28 T HE HIGHL ANDS OF C EN T R AL INDIA .

sheltering tree The large stags do not see m t o care

.

so mu ch about shade a n d ge n e r ally lie o n the si d e o f

,

some littl e depression o n a hill top sheltered o n ly by ,

l o ng grass Their forms can be readily disti n guishe d

.

fr om th ose o f the others by their greatly superior size .

Thes e forms are generally made w he n the grass is green ,

a n d are occupied at i n terv a ls all th e rest of th e year .

More th an o ne herd a n d a few solitar y stags w il l n o t

u su ally b e fo u n d in th e sam e tract o f cou ntry ; bu t
in t he rutti n g season they collect t o gether i n much
l arger n u mbe r s o n th e tops o f th e hi g h p l ateaux ; a nd
t he hoarse roar of the stags may the n b e heard echoi n g
far a n d w ide in the sile nt n ight Whe n lyi ng do w n
.

for the d a y s a mbar a n d particularly th e solitary stags

, , ,

w ill fr equ e n tly allo w o n e t o ap p roach a n d pass them

quite close w ithout getti n g u p trusti n g to conceal
,

m e n t i n th e g r ass ; a n d it is really almost impossibl e

i n m a n y p l aces for the sportsma n o n foot to see them
u nless h e actually stumbl es o n their forms The h ard .
,

yell o w gr ass w hile un b ur nt leaves n ext to no trail of

, ,

t he passage o f a si ng l e deer a nd thus th e s earch fo r

,

s a m b ar o n foot af t er the h our w he n they lie do wn i s

seld o m very successful .

I f i nfo r matio n c a n be g o t fr om the people w ho

frequ e n t the j u n gl es for w ood - cutti ng etc o f w here , .
,

abouts th e s a mbar are fe edi ng a n d resti n g at t hat p ar

t ic u l a r season capi t al sport c a n be o t w ith them i n the
, g
day tim e w ith t h e aid of a ri d i ng elepha nt This .

e nabl es y o u to see over th e grass a n d ge n e r ally starts

,

a n
y s a mbar that may be lyi ng d o wn w ithi n about a
hu n d r ed yards Th e elephant m ust be thoroughly
.

t r ai n e d to st o p d ead short o n dee r getti ng up and ,

sho u ld n o t b e furnished w ith a ho wd ah the simpl e pa d o r,

2 30 T H E HIGHLAND S O F C E N T RAL INDIA .

D rivi ng a l arge exte n t o f cou ntry w ith a lo ng line o f

beaters is th e commo n est m etho d o f hunti n g s a mbar .

I t is frequ e ntly successful a n d ofte n secu r es a good stag ;

,

but fo r my o wn part I h ave very rarely resorted t o it .

I t is difli c u lt ofte n to get a su fficie n t number o f beaters

w ithout opp r ession and accide n ts ofte n occu r t o them
,

fr om the e n closure o f dangerous w il d beasts T he w hol e

.

country is disturbed ; th e shooti n g o f a creature driven

u to o u w ithout th e exercis e either o f skill o r any
p y ,

o t her ma n ly quality o n you r o w n p art i s no t s p ort ;

,

a n d lastly t o prove su ccessful a large n umber o f sports

, ,

m e n are requ ired t o guard th e n um erou s passes ; a n d it

n ever ha s bee n m y fortu n e (n o t that I have much

regretted it ) t o b e o u t w ith a large hu n ti n g party in

I n dia A fe w times h o w ever I h ave helpe d to drive
.
, ,

a j u n gl e ge nerally fo r so m e other game tha n s a mbar

, ,

a n d these h ave sometimes prove d m emorable occasions .

I n the J u bbu l p ur district I wa s b eati n g a w ooded hill

,

side for s a mbar as the shades o f eve n i n g w ere dra wing

o n and th e beaters ha d n early reached the e n d o f the
,

d r ive w he n I su dde n ly s a w them s warmi n g u p trees ,

”
a n d the shout reach ed m e of T w o tigers are afoot !
“

I w a s the n tryi n g for the fi r st tim e a rifle made o n

’

Jaco b s p ri nci p le fo r explosive shells a n d co ngratulated

,

myself o n havi n g s o good a n oppo r tu nity for testi n g it .

A nxiously I w aited behi n d my little gree n bush the ,

he a t er s creati ng a din e n ough to deafe n a d oze n tigers ,

till at last I s a w a st r iped fo rm glide ac r oss a n open spot

i n fr o nt a n d adva n ci ng i n my directio n
, . With fi nger
o n the t r igger I w a s a w a iti n g his appeara n ce at the n ext

b reak in the l o w j u n gle w h e n sudde n ly I hear d th e

,

b u shes c r ashi ng o n m y left a n d a la r ge tiger b o u n d ed

,

i nto the j u ngle path w ay o n w hich I w a s sta n di ng a n d ,

 T HE T EA K R EGI O N . 2 31

c antered to w ards my positio n Wh eeli ng rou n d I de .

,

livered the right bar r e l o f the Jacob i n his left shoulder ,

o n receivi n g w hich he rolled over like a ra b bit A t th e .

m ome n t I fired my eye caught a glimpse o f the other

tiger close by in th e di r ection I had fi r st seen him ; so
, ,

s eei n g the first disp osed o f I agai n fro n ted a n d w ith a, , ,

s teady aim gave N o 2 the left ba r rel th r ough the n eck

, . .

A s luck w ould have it the spi n e w a s b roken a n d h e , ,

d ropped o n the spot A ll this occupied but a few

.

s eco n ds bei n g as uick right a n d left as ever I fired

, q a .

O n tur n i ng my atte ntion agai n t o th e first tiger I wa s ,

j ust i n time to see him reach the t hick j ungle som e

t wenty p aces o ff a n d b efore I could sei z e a n other gun
, , ,

h e had disappeared I had time to perceive ho wever

.
, ,

that his right hi n d leg w a s broke n i n the body the shell

m u st therefo re as h e wa s hi t i n the left shoulder have
, , ,

traversed his b ody from stem to stern ; a nd yet here

w ere n o n e o f the immediate paralysi n g e fl e c t s ascribed
t o these shells at close quarters O n w alki ng u p to t he .

”
s e co n d tiger w hat wa s my disgust t o fi n d that it w a s
,

n o t a tiger aft er all but o n ly a huge striped hy ae n a I

,

had shot havi n g mistake n his disp r oportio n ately large

,

h ead in the impe rfect light for that o f the j u ngle ki ng !

T h e shell had passed completely throug h his n eck b ut , ,

i f it exploded at all must have do n e so after passing

,

o ut
. The other w a s a veri t a b l e tige r ho wever We ,
.

follo wed him a little wa y b y his fo o tpri nts a n d bloo d ,

bu t it wa s getti n g very dark a n d p r ude n ce c o mpelled ,

u s t o leave him till the mor n i n g We failed ho w ever .

, ,

t o fi nd him the n though w e hu n ted a b o ut the w hole

,

d a y ; and it w a s n o t till some day s aft er that a c o w

he r d fou n d his rot t i ng remai ns b eside a pool o f w ater ,

m a ny miles a w ay .
2 32 T H E H I GHLAND S OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

On a n other occasio n I secure d the larges t s a mba r

horns I have ever see n i n a drive I t w a s in the B ori
, .
'

teak forest a lovely little valley nestli ng u n der th e

,

n orthern sc a r p o f the M a h a deo hills a n d surrou n ded ,

on three sides by its mural precipices Bei ng very .

in accessible from th e plai n s more teak trees have he r e ,

escaped the destroyi ng t imber contractor t ha n al most

any w here else a nd R D a nd m yself w ere e ngage d
.
,
.
,

demarcati ng its b ou n da r ies as a r e s er v e d forest H avi ng .

toiled for some days putti ng up cair n s o f stones alo n g

the ope n southern border w here i t is n o t e n closed ,

by p recipices a n d completed the busi n ess w e decide d

, ,

to w i n d up w ith a d r ive in the forest itself for s a mb ar ,

and the cha n ce o f a fe w biso n w hose t r acks w e had

see n du r i n g o u r w ork The grass w a s s o lon g a n d
.

the forest so thick tha t drivi n g w a s the n almost t he

o n ly possible w a y o f ge t ti n g game We had had .

a n umber o f G o n d s and K ork u s o u t w ith us at th e

b oundary w ork a nd the prospect o f abunda n ce o f
,

meat readily i n du ced them t o beat for us A lo n g .

slo p e o f broken grou n d b et w ee n the foot o f the scarp

a n d the b ottom o f th e glen w a s to b e beate n cross w ays ;

D took th e post j u s t belo w the scarp R remai n e d

.
,
.

near the bottom a n d I had th e m id d le p lace

,
I .

scree n ed mys elf b ehind the thick double t r u n k o f a

teak tree forki n g fr om the g r ou n d The he a t w a s
,
.

a short o n e a n d I had not w aited lo n g befo r e a t r e me n

,

dous crashi n g o n the hill - side above m e follo w ed b y ,

a shot from D an n ou n ced the approach o f s o me heavy

.
,

a n imal I thought it w a s a bull biso n at least a nd

.
,

wa s su r prised w he n a s a mbar st a g b urs t throu g h t he

unde r w ood j us t in fro n t o f me a nd with hor ns laid , ,

alo n g his fla n ks clattered d o wn the steep hill -

, side .
2 34 T HE HIGHL ANDS O F CEN T RAL INDIA .

have ever see n a la r ger hea d al t ogether tha n this i n

n

C e n tral I n dia I t is fi gured at the e n d o f the present

.

c hapter Th e h orns o f s a m b ar vary greatly in

.

developme nt som e b eing v ery massive but sho r t an d

, ,

o thers very long but sle n der R eally good h eads every .

w a y like this o n e are t he rare exceptio n a nd w oul d n o t ,

be see n o n ce o u t o f p erhaps fifty a n imals shot A bo u t .

t hirty to thir t y - fi v e inches is the average le ngth o f th e

horn s eve n o f mature stags O ccasio nally m ore than .

thre e ti n es are see n o n o ne o r b oth a n tlers ; b ut this is

a n a b n ormal d e velopme nt and s uch heads w ill ge n erally ,

be fou n d o f stu n ted gro w th a n d devoid o f symm etry .

S ometi m es th e i n ner and sometim es the outer tine o f

t he termi n al fo r k w ill be fou n d t he lo n ger .

I have take n m uch pai n s to ass u r e myself o f a fact ,

o f w hich I a m n o w p erfectly co n vi n ced namely tha t , , ,

n eith er in the case o f the s a mb ar n o r th e spotted d eer

( both belo ngi n g t o the A siatic grou p o f R u s i n ae as
d isti nguishe d fro m th e C ervid ae or tru e stags ) are the ,

a ntl ers regu larly shed every year i n these C e n tral I n dian
f orests as is the case w ith th e C er vid ae in col d c l im a t es fi
,
<

No native shik a r i w ho is e ngage d all his life i n the

’

p ursuit o f these a n imals w ill allo w su ch to be the cas e ,

a n d all sportsme n o u t at that season must h ave see n

stags w it h full - gro wn hor n s du r i ng the ho t w e ather a n d
rai n s w he n th ey a r e su pp osed to have sh e d them
,
.

H ornless stags are seen at that season but the great ,

P b a b ly o n the highe hill a nges they she d the m m e egu

ro r r or r

l ly
ar n the N i lg h
o
y h i lls I w a n u m b e
e rro f stags i n the m n th f sa r o o

July nd n n e f the m ha d full -g wn h o n s I m y a dd he e that

,
a o o ro r . a r

b ut n s p ecies f this d ee is n w ec o gn ise d as i nha b it in g all I nd ia

o e o r o r ,

i n clu d i ng the G w f the H i malayas nd that I b el i eve afte

er o o ,
a ,
r

i n s p ect i ng la ge c llecti n s f h n s etc it n whe e attai n s g eate

r o o o or , .
,
o r r r

d evel p men t than in C en t al I nd ia

o r .
 T HE T EA K R EGI O N . 2 35

m a j ority have perfect heads I have also k n o w n certai n .

s tags fo r successive years al w ays a b ou t t he same locality ,

a n d w hich I have repeatedly stalked at i nte r vals du r i ng

this time alo n g w i t h natives w ho co n sta ntly s a w them ,

s o that I cou ld n o t be mistaken as t o the i n dividual

;
a nd a l l the time th ey never o n ce dropped thei r hor n s .

On e o f these w a s a ve r y peculiar a n imal a lmost ,

j e t black in colour a n d w ith la r ge h o r n s s o w hite as to

,

look almost like a cast pair bleached by the w eather .

H e freque nted duri n g seve r al years I k n e w him an

, ,

o p e n p art o f th e Mo n a v alley a good deal resor t ed t o by ,

w oo d a n d grass cutters H e never could be fou n d like

.

o ther stags in th e m or n i n g ; b ut seem e d t o lie do w n

before daylight in some st r ategical position w he nce he
al w ays m a naged to effec t a n escape w i t hout bei ng seen
t ill far o u t o f shot I had n ever even fired at him
.

though I had see n hi m ofte n w he n v ery early o ne ,

morn i n g I w a s w al ki n g ove r the grassy p lai n whe r e h e

w a s oft en see n a n d some cart -
,
m e n who w ere loadi n g hay
told m e they had see n a stag lie do w n o n the side o f a
hillock n o t far o ff I made a lo n g circuit to get to the
.

o ther si d e o f it a n d the n slo w ly i nch by i n ch a nd w ith

, ,

beati ng h ear t dre w myself over the b r o w N othi ng w a s

,
.

t o be see n fr o m the r e a n d w ith fi nger o n the t r igger o f

, ,

m y little si ngle H e n r y I c r aw led do w n the slope

“
,
”
.

Just the n a sti ck crackled o n my left a n d looki ng rou n d , ,

I s a w the stag ru i g
nn n i n r u n -
a c o chi g tiger like fashion ,

alo n g the bo t tom o f a w ater-cou r se I had n o t n o ticed ,

b ut w hich dou b t less ha d b e e n duly co nsidered i n th e

, ,

s electio n o f his positio n I ha d o n ly time for a s nap

.

shot w hic h caught the top o f his shoulder a nd heavily

,

lame d him H e could go j ust a little faster tha n myself

.

a fter this a n d had freque n tly t o s t op

,
Bu t he a l way s .
2 36 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN TR AL I ND IA .

ot the start o f me w h en I came u and thus carried

g p ,

m e some four o r five miles to w ards the base of the hil ls ,

before a l ucky shot at a very long ra n ge c au ght hi m i n

the ce n tre o f the neck an d finished the busi ness .

I t is curious h o w often i n cidents like that o n e w ith

th e B ori s a mbar occur A beast shot i n th e l u ngs w ill
.

r u n o n particularly do w n b ill for s eve r al hu n dred yards

, ,

before h e d rops th ough then he w ill ge n erally fall sto n e

,

dead ; a n d the collapse frequently occurs j ust w hen he

receives a n other w ou n d th ough it m ay be a very sl ight
,

o n e o r w he n anythi n g occurs t o inte r r upt hi s i mpetus

, .

I remember w he n shooti ng i n the R o hilkhu n d Ter ai a ,

hog deer r a n the gau n tlet o f a w h ol e li n e of elephan ts .

I had fired a t hi m first 0 11 th e right w ith a little rifl e

carryi ng a very peculiar bullet b ut w e all thought w e ,

had to r e giste r a miss whe n h e fell to th e J o e M a nto n o f

o l d Co l S o n th e extreme lef t o f the li n e ; a n d it w a s
. .

not till w e w ere exami n i ng the goodly hea p o f slain

brought i n by the pad elepha n ts o n o u r retur n to cam p
th at I thought o f looki ng for my sho t a n d foun d tha t ,

the deat h w ou n d w a s fr o m my rifle after all as w e cut ,

o u t the little bullet from the top of its shoulder w hil e ,

’
the C olo nel s r ou n d ball had o nly j ust gra z ed its quarter .

On another occasio n I had fired at a l ar ge tiger s n eaking

through som e thi n j u ngle in the B e t u l d istrict T he .

brute dashed ahead o u t o f sight w ith lou d roars but ,

prese n tly came w heeli ng rou n d i n a circle gallope d along ,

th e b ottom o f a small ravi n e a nd came u p th e ba n k o f

,

it right op p osite me as I th ought w ith the determ inatio n

,

o f maki ng a h ome charge A s his head appeared ove r

.

the top I fi r ed at it at the dista n ce o f o nly s ome do z en

,

paces a nd he tumbled back agai n t o the b ottom w here

, ,

h e lay dead My asto nishme n t w a s n o t small t o fi nd

.
2 38 T HE H I GHLAND S OF C EN T RAL I NDIA .

th e sport o f stalki ng the bison a n d s a mbar i n thi s

fashio n c a n b e follo w e d with better c ha n ce o f su ccess
tha n in th e j u n gles o n eithe r side o f the u pper Ta pt i
valley I nd eed the very best o f this sp o r t c a n b e ha d
.
,
’
w ithi n a n easy mor n i ng s ride o f the large city o f
Burh a np u r i n th e N im a r d istrict situated o n the Ta pt i
, , ,

a fe w miles b el o w the p oi n t w here th e narr o w rugged

valley ope ns o u t i nto a w ide basin of fertile a n d highly
cultivated black soil H e r e t he T a p t i is j oi n ed by t he
.

Mo na a beau tiful stream w hich fl o w s clear a n d spa r kli n g

,

o u t o f a bra n ch o f the S a tp u ra ra nge ca l le d the H att i

hills I t is o ne o f th e m ost si ngular parts o f the great

.

b asaltic fo r mati o n a n d forms the extrem e w esterl y

,

t ermi n atio n of the highlan d regio n I am d escribi ng .

I n th e e nd of Februa r y w e rode o u t fr om B urh a np u r

to o u r cam p w hich w a s pitched at the last village in the
,

ope n plai n N ext mor n i n g a small t e n t w a s sent u p t o

.

a little fo r t called G harri that cro wn s the northern fac e

,

o f the H att i ra n ge a n d w e ourselves took differe n t line s

,

thro u gh th e hills o n foot t o th e sa m e place The in .

habita n ts o f these hills are all Bhe els a good deal spoil t
,

”
by civilisatio n bei ng mostly l azy a n d thriftless a nd
, ,

co nfi r med opiu m eaters They are th e desce n d ants o f

.

a n cestors w ho w ere n omi n ally co n verted to Ma ho m e

d anism i n the days w he n a stro n g Moslem p o w er w a s
establish ed at Bu r h a np u r bu t n o w retai n scarcely a ny
,

thi n g o f th eir faith besi des th e n ame o f th e Pro p het and

th e practice o f its m ost elem e ntary rites I n Ma ho m e da n.

times th e chiefs o f these Bhee ls w ere subsidised a nd

co n stituted w ar de n s o f th e hill passes i n this range ,

ove r w hich r a n the mai n high w ays bet wee n the valley
o f the T a t i a n d
p Ber a r ; a n d they still conti nu e t o

receive fr o m o u r G over n me n t this s ubsidy which is ,

 T HE T EA K R EGI O N . 2 39

nothi ng but a compensatio n fo r the blackmail levied by

their tur b ulent a n cestors from the adj oi ni ng plai n s A .

fe w u n co n verted Bheel s still remai n i n this cou nt r y ,

w ho are chiefly the here d i t ary village w atchme n of the

H i nd u villages b orderi ng o n the hills They are .

u sually a goo d deal H ind u ised i n m a n ners but r etain ,

m uch o f the keen natural qualities that re nder the

w ilder membe r s o f the race such excelle n t hu n ters .

Bhe e l s o f the w ildest character a r e also found i n the

m ou n tai n regio n w est o f A s i rgarh depe n di n g for sub
,

siste n ce mu ch o n th eir bo w s a nd arro w s a nd still rea dy ,

fo r a n y u n de r taki n g of la w lessness and pe r il I t is .

scarcely h o w ever w ithi n th e provi n ce o f this w ork

, ,

t o devote space t o this tri b e w hich is but scantily r epr e

,

sented i n th e highla n d region o f w hich it treats .

The road to G h a rri lay u p a fi ne level though , ,

n arro w valley i n the H att i hills co n tai n i ng the sites of

, ,

several old villages marke d by a n cie nt trees a nd Maho

medan tombs A s w e overlooked fr om the height of
.
,

G harri its lo n g level reach a n d the n arro w go r ge

, , ,

formed by a tra n sverse chai n o f little hills at its mouth ,

w ith the level black - soil plai n o f the Ta p t i valley str etch ’

i ng a w ay i n to the d istant ha z e beyo n d the thought sug ,

gested itself at th e same time t o both o f us ho w ,

remarkably suited th e spot w a s for an irrigation

r ese r voir Without — the l a n d thirsti n g for w ater b ei ng
.
,

u n derlaid by a san dy su b soil so dee p that no w ell can

tap the stratu m o f moisture belo w it a n d cro w ded w ith ,

a de n se population who pay fo r their dry a n d u n fert ile

acres the re n t that in m an y places is give n for irrigated
sugar - cane lan d Within — a natural reservoir fed by
.
,

the drai n age o f forty square miles a n d o nly w anti ng a n

,

e mbankme n t o f a fe w hun d red yar d s to hold back

2 40 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

sufficie nt w ater to convert t he w hol e o f th e plai n w ith

out i n to a n evergreen garde n S uch sites as thes e
.
,

tho u gh n o t al w ays s o favoured by a combi natio n of

c i r cumstances as this o n e are m et w ith at i nte r vals
,

a l o n g almost the w hole o f the fro n tier line bet wee n the

highl a nds a nd the open plai n B ut alas th e mea n s at

.
,

the com m an d o f s o poor a country as I ndia are une q ual

t o t he task o f realisi n g her o wn future ; a nd the w ealth
o f l ife -givi ng w ater that ann ually escapes thro u gh these
u n guarded outlets must still for ma ny a ge n eration it
, ,

may be feared be allo w ed to w aste its elf in destructi v e

,

i n u n datio ns a n d fruitless floods We are only j ust

.

’
begi nni ng to realise t hat at t he bottom o f all I n dia s
w retched poverty a nd back w a r d n ess lies the exceedi ng

u n fertility o f her l a n d i n the absence o f artificial i r riga

tion . What might be th e cha n ges in the physical

co n ditio n s and eco n omy o f I ndia w ere the annual rain
fall saved w hich n o w escapes to the sea it is im p ossible ,

to fo r esee A n almost i n c r edible i n crease in the p r o

.

d u c t iv e n e s s o f the l o w cou n try an d the fi n al ba n ish

,

me n t o f the famine d emon w o u l d p robably b e combi n ed

,

w ith a g r eat amelioration of the climate a n d improve ,

me n t o f the forests o f the higher regio ns .

G harri is situate d o n th e edge o f a tabl e -

la n d o f con
s id e r a bl e extent but of very irregular outli n e ; o n the
,

no r th w i n di n g rou nd the hea d o f long ravi n es w hich

drai n do wn i nto th e valley belo w a nd to w ards the s outh
,

comi n g su dde nly to a steep d rop into the plains o f

Be r a r The m ore o p e n parts of this table -
. la n d h ave at
som e remote p eriod been cultivated the trap boulders ,

h avi ng bee n cleared O E a nd piled into rough w alls

e nclosi ng large squ are fields The la n d is in many
.

p laces ve ry dee p and rich a n d the elevatio n b ei ng

, ,
2 42 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL IND IA .

of th e S a lei tree A bove short scarp s of da r k g r ay

.
,

trap leadi n g u p t o the flat tops o f the ra nge a n d belo w ,

s o near looki ng that you w oul d expect a sto n e thro wn

over to light o n it and yet so far b e n eath that to wn s
, ,

a n d groves a n d cor n -
, fi el d s w ere all m elted i n o n e i n
d isti nguishable blue haze the long level cotto n- ,
yieldi ng ,

plai ns of Ber a r .

A t Bing a r a the Ma ho m e d a n N a w a bs of Ber a r had ,

som e hu n dreds o f years ago constructed a pleasure ,

hou se after th eir earnest fashio n w hich des p ite the , ,

e fl e c t s o f a destructive climate a n d th e searchi n g roots

'

o f the peepul and ba nya n figs remai n s to this day , ,

tho u gh probably n ever repai r ed an exam p l e o f the ,

solidity o f their styl e of co n structio n The m assive .

d omes thick w alls a nd n arro w ope n i ngs combi n e i n

, ,
'

these buildi n gs to form the coolest structures t o b e

fou n d in I n dia The b u il d i n g at B i ng a r a is erecte d
.

o n th e ba nks o f a small artificial lake the w aters o f ,

w hich h o wever n o w esca p e a good deal through th e

, ,

rotte n em bankme n t leavi n g b ehi n d a slim e w hich by

,

no mean s adds to the attractio n s of th e p lace T he .

buildi ng itself w a s the habitation o f bats a nd o w ls ;

a n d so w e pitch ed o u r l ittle tent a short w a back
y
from th e lake u n der the sh ade of som e imme nse banya n
trees Just as w e arrive d some dogs belo ngi ng to the
.

Bhe el s w hich had bee n ra n gi ng i n th e j u ngle passed

, ,

across th e dr y b e d o f the lake in fu ll cry after a doe

s a mbar th ey had roused O f course w e fl e w t o o u r
.

rifles but w ere j ust i n time to miss her ha nd somely

,

as she dashed i n to th e thick j u ngl e follo w e d fo r a ,

l ittle w a y by th e d ogs w ho soon cam e limpi ng back

,

ho w ever .

N ext morn in g w e took differe n t directio ns to explo r e

 T HE T EA K REGI O N . 2 43

a n d hu nt each w ith a fe w Bbc c l atte n da nts My w a y

, .

l a y alo ng the backbo n e of the ra n ge b eyond Bi ng a ra .

A fter w alki ng s ome m iles exami n i ng c a refully w i t h ,

glass a n d eye th e declivities o n eithe r side my Bb c c l ,

li e n c hm a n a sharp l ad called C h a nd o r the M o o n “ ”

, , ,

fixe d a l o n ger look than usual o n th e slope of a dista n t

hill -side a n d after a w hile m otio n ed m e up to him
, ,

a n d directed my bi n ocular to the ce n t r e of a sc r ubby

patch o f teak forest P r ese ntly I caught the gl i n t

.

o f th e sun o n somethi ng movi n g a n d made out a ,

n oble s a m b ar stag sta n di ng u n der the trees motio nless ,

exce p t t hat he slo w ly turn e d his a ntlered head fr om

side t o si d e s w eepi ng w ith keen v isio n th e w h o l e
,

semicircle w ithi n his k e n H e w a s n o t m ore tha n a .

mile off in a di r ect line b ut to get to the sp o t i t w oul d

be n ecessar y to go several miles rou n d the head of a
long ravine A s h e w a s almost certai n to lie d o w n w he r e
.

he w a s w e carefully marked the spot a n d slippi n g

, ,

back over the edge of the saddle started off at a b r isk

w alk to circumve n t him Th e s u n wa s w ell up n o w a nd
.
,

it is ve r y hot in March eve n at t ha t earl y hou r ; so

that by the time w e had got rou n d i n to the r avi n e
belo w o u r temperatu r e w a s co n si d erably higher than
,

w he n w e starte d No w commenced a n excruciati n g

.

advan ce o n tiptoe w ith be nded backs over a st r atum

, ,

o f falle n t eak leaves of the t i n- “

box desc r i p ti o n t o ,

ste p o n a si ngle one o f w hich w ould b e fatal t o the s t alk .

As the o n ly alternative fo ot -
grou n d wa s o n r o u nded
trap boulders given t o rolli ng a w ay from be n eath
,

the un w ary foot the heat developed by th e exe r t io n

,

w a s greatly out o f proportio n t o the p r ogress made .

, ,
-
A t l ast ho w ever w e sighted the red top p ed tree u n de r
”
w hich w e had marked o u r stag ; a n d then the Moon .
,
2 44 T H E HIGHLANDS OF C E N T RAL INDI A .

stri pp i ng himself o f nex t t o his last fragme n t o f raiment ,

s w armed up a teak p ole to look o u t ahe ad N othing .

w a s see n ho w ever and so we stol e o n agai n frien d

, , ,

C h a nd s warming up trees a t intervals and I bal anci n g ,

myself in fear a n d trembli ng o n the rounded boulders We .

w ere n o t to su ccee d ho w ever ,

fo r the Bbc c l in comin g
o ff a tre e acci d enta l ly ste pp e d on a l eaf and th e ga m e ,

wa s u p . Though I d ashed ahea d at o n ce k n o wing ,

that w e co u l d steal in no further it wa s t o o late ; ,

a n d a l l I s a w w a s a dark form ru nn i n g l o w but at ,

a great p ace through th e teak scr u b too far o ff for

, ,

a shot I b elieve that this w a s abo u t th e only s a mbar

.

then o n the hills ; for though the for ms w here they

ha d bee n lyi ng w ere nu me r ous and both T a n d I , .

hu n ted the livelong day for the m n o t a n other hoof ,

or horn did w e see Th e Bheels s aid they had a l l

.

D ho w t ea — a place w hich w e aft er wards

“ ”
gone t o
fou nd w a s s o d ifli c u l t o f access that very fe w o f th e m
ha d ever b ee n there ; a nd so they u sed it much as ,

“
w e do Jericho to ex p ress an indefi n ite regio n w here
,
’
e ver thi n g t hat can t be fou nd else w here mu st cer t ai n ly
y
have gone .

G reatly to the s urprise o f th e Bheel s w e d id shortly ,

aft e r this go to D ho w t e a ; a nd if its nam e w a s great

b efore it certainly became much m ore so aft er w e
,

had bee n there N either o f us ever s a w a nythi n g s o

.

extraordi n ary i n o u r lives ; a nd to the Bhe els there

w a s nothing short o f magical devil r y i n w hat w e
fou n d o r rather did not find D ho wt e a w a s a hollo w
, .

o n th e t op o f th e ra n ge surrou n ded by flat plateau x

o f small e l evatio n w ith a fi n e strea m of w ater i n the

,

cent r e a nd l o n g g r ass all about A fter a lo ng struggl e

, .

through thick j u ngle and over desperate rocky groun d ,

2 46 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

n ever agai n found a ny p lace vacan t o f game but t o be

told w i t h a grin , O h th ey are gone to D ho wt e a o f
, ,

cou r se
We w ere utterly beate n a n d the un b urnt j u ngle
,

h a vi ng also p rove d t o o thick fo r o u r bou n dary o p era

tio ns w e determi n e d t o ret r eat to the plai n s B ut w e
, .

w ere u n w illi n g to return by the a w ful road w e had

come ; a n d a possible w a y do wn th e northern face o f
,

th e hill bei ng re p orted w e left D ho w t ea behi n d u s t he

,

n ext mo r n i ng marchi n g alo n g the top of the ra n ge for

,

eight o r ten miles t o a p lace call ed J a mt i the residence

’

o f a n other o f these petty Bhe e l chief t ai ns a n d marke d

,

by a c o n spicuous ba n ya n tree w hich is visibl e from

every part of th e surrou n di ng cou ntry Thence w e.

desce n ded the n ext day to the Ta p t i valley i n te n di ng

,

to return to the hills w he n the j u n gle should be clearer .

The truth w a s w e had happe n ed t o visit D ho w t e a j ust

,

w hen nearly all the s a mbar had gone do w n the hills t o

feed on som e j u ngle fruits that had ripene d in the
valleys ; an d the few that remai n ed w ere not t o b e
fou n d amo ng the lo n g u n burn t grass I believe that
.

the immense n u mber o f marks w e s a w w ere cause d by

th e collection o f large n u mbers o f deer there during
the rutting season (late autumn ) .

The path w e w ent do w n by w ou nd along th e to p o f

a lo ng spur o f n ake d basal t O n either side w ere deep
.

a nd almost coal - black rifts in th e rock the s ummits

,

clothed sca n tily w ith thi n yello w grass a nd here an d

,

there a S a lei tree stu nte d a nd t w iste d like a corkscre w .

A t o n e poi nt t he r ock assumed th e form of a sheer cliff ,

ma ny hu n d r ed feet i n height of th e colum nar structure

,

seen occasio nally in this volca n ic fo r matio n w here the

,

rock seems composed of a vast co n glome r atio n of p en

 T HE T EA K R EGI O N . 2 47

t a gona l pillars stan di n g together and broken o fl at

d ifler e nt le n gths This si ngula r ly favourable situation
.

for n est bui ldi ng had been occupied by a n imme nse

c olo n y o f vultures the w hole face o f th e rock for miles
,

bei ng w hite n ed by their droppi ngs w hile nu mbers o f ,

t he b irds w ere perched o n the cliff o r saili ng over th e

r avine . A mo n g them w ere a good ma ny o f the commo n
X
b r o wn carrion v u l t u r e ; but the m aj o r ity w ere th e
’ <

L
foul w hite s ca veng er S i to be see n o n eve r y dunghill in
the villages of the plai ns I had ofte n w o n dered w here
.

these birds bred for although there are myriads in a ll

,

i nha b ited tracts of C e n t r al I n dia o n ly a fe w n ests are t o

be see n here a n d there in th e tops of trees H ere w a s .

th e pu z zle solved i n the g r im an d retired solitu d e o f

,

the V alley o f the V ultures But a si ngle hill— a fe w

.

m i n utes flight — separate d t hem here from the thickly

’

pe o ple d plai n w he r e they find their repulsive food ; and

yet that ravi n e is pr o ba bl v as seldo m looked o n by th e
e e of m a n as if it w ere a gua n o isla n d in th e Pacific
y
O cean .

A few w eeks after o u r unsuccessful tri p to the H att i

hills I heard fr om T that th e grass wa s mostly bur n t
,
.
,

a n d s a mbar w ere ple n tiful o n the n orther n slope o f th e

hills H e had also come across a preserve o f biso n o u t

.
,

o f w hich he had bagged a b ull E arly in A pril there

.
,

f o r,
e I rode o u t to his camp at C h o n di — o n e o f the

deserted village sites in the valley b elo w G harri A

’

lovelier spot fo r a hunti ng camp i n t he hot w eather

c oul d n o t be fou n d C lose by a clear a n d b eautiful
.

pool o f w ater stood a n e n ormous banya n tree so o ld ,

that m a ny o f the suckers thro w n out by the b r an ches o f

the p are n t tree had themselves becom e m ighty stems ,

Gyp s Beng a lensi s t N eoz a hu m P er enoza t er a s

“
. .
2 48 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

w ith branches w hich a gain ha d given birth t o tr u nks o f

consi d erabl e girth w hile the ste m o f th e origi n al tre e
,

had utterly decaye d a w ay B e neath its co p ious shad e

.

w ere sheltered fro m th e s u n several te n ts and numerou s ,

servants lascars an d Bheel s besides o u r horses dogs

, , , , ,

etc The grass o n the lo w er hills ha d mostly bee n

.

b u rnt since w e w ere last here a n d the M b o wa fl o w ers ,

ha d been falling fo r some time s a mbar n ightly visite d.

some fine clu m ps o f that tree in the bottom o f the v al ley ,

a little higher u p than the camp .

- -
The next m or i ng w e sent o u t abo u t half d o z e n
n a

pairs o f Bheels t o look o u t o n the hill to p s lo n g befor e

daybreak ; a n d soon aft er ourselves starte d u p t he
valley to a p oi n t w here w e i nte n ded t o separate an d
take d ifferent beats A colony of monkeys in t he
.

trees overhangi ng th e river w ere s w eari n g lustily

about half a mil e to o u r left a n d prese n tly w e foun d
,

the rem a ins o f a s a mbar that had bee n kille d duri ng

the night u nder th e M b o w a trees b y a tiger The .

brute himself w a s doubtless maki ng o ff u p the valley

w hen see n by th e monkeys Ma n y s a mb ar had bee n
.

fee d i ng o n the M b o wa a nd fresh tracks led o ff i n

,

almost all directio n s Just w here w e w ere abo u t t o

.

separate a lo n g s p ur ran d o w n from th e hills o n t he

right to the valley up w hich w e w ere proceeding ; a nd
as w e approache d it w e s a w in the d i m gray light a l ong
lin e of deer file over the top each pausi ng for a seco n d
,

o n the sky li n e before p assi n g over to the far side .

Watchi ng them for a fe w s eco n ds w e sa w that they ,

w ere follo w ed by a large stag at a good distance i n the

rear I n fact he had j us t comme n ced to climb the spur
.
,

w he n w e s a w him ; a n d at the same tim e he must have

see n u s pau si ng o n the path for his leisurely walk the n
,
25 0 TH E HIGHLANDS OF CEN TR AL INDIA .

wa s re w a r ded soo n after by th e appeara n ce o f the stag ,

w alki ng slo w ly alo n g in the sam e li n e a n d sh o w i n g by

,

his dig nified gait that h e had n o sus p icio n o f danger .

H e w a s passi ng ab out a hundred yards belo w m e w he n

I pulled o n his shoulder w ith the little si ngl e E x “

”
p r ess rifle an d h e fell to t he shot w ithout a sound
,
.

T he Bhe el s cam e ru nn i n g u p at o n ce a n d as I had n o t

,

o n e do w n t o the stag p roce e d ed to cut his throat in

g
the ortho d ox Ma ho m e da n fashion though I am certain
,

h e w a s sto n e d ea d lo n g before they arr ive d H e w a s .

o n e o f th e fi n es t harts I ever s a w — i n beautiful con

ditio n w ith mu ch o f th e cold -w eather m a n e remai n i ng

, ,

a n d of a peculiar a nd rare rich chest n ut colour H is .

horns w ere v ery stout a nd han dsome though ab out four ,

i n ches shorter tha n those o f th e Bor i stag The colour .

o f the s a mbar o f these ope n light j u n gles is ge n erally

deci d edly lighter tha n th at o f those w hich i n habit th e

m o r e shady forests further e a st S ometimes a very
.

black stag w ill be fou nd h o w ever eve n here an d th e

, ,

c olour o f all v a ries a good deal at di ffere n t times of

th e year .

The n ext d a y w e agai n w e n t o u t lo ng before day

b reak . I w a s becko n ed u p a very steep hill by the
Bhe els o n the top ; a n d w h e n I got th e r e some time
aft er the s u n w a s u p a n d a good deal fatigued by
,

the climb I fou n d it wa s o nly to tell m e that they

,

ha d see n t w o stags go u p t he opp o s i t e hill slo p e ,

betw een w hich a nd o u r hill there l ay a vall ey as d eep

as that fr om w hich I had come up They had never .

bee n at t his scouti n g w ork -before o r they had w ell

,

d eserved a thrash ing for their pai n s There w a s n othi ng

.

fo r it b ut to desce n d to the valley agai n w hich w a s ,

almost severer w ork than comi ng up The sli p periness .

 T HE T E A K R EGI O N . 25 1

o fth ese trap hills w he n every p article of g rass on the m

has bee n bu r n t into fi ne charcoal is dreadfu l I n e ve r .

found the deer that had been see n a nd soo n g o t ,

i n vol ve d in a troublesome s e r ie s of cross ravi nes s o ,

’
that by about ni n e o clock I wa s pretty hot a nd w earied
in the A p ril s u n I ha d almost give n u p hu n ti ng a nd
.
,

ha d tur n ed for h ome w hen somethi ng caught my eye

,

i n the b o ttom o f a slight h ollo w i n t he hill I t looked .

e xactly like o ne o f the bu n ches o f t w igs that gro w out

o f ol d teak stumps o n these b ills w ith o ne or t wo ,

d ried leaves attached to them ; a n d yet I fa n cied I

had see n it m ove I l o o ke d at it i nte nt ly fo r at leas t
.

a mi n ute tryi n g to make o u t if it w a s a bu n ch o f teak

,
’
t wigs or a sa mbar s h ead a n d hor n s I t n ever m oved
'

the w hole o f this time ; a nd as the Bhe e l s w ho w ere ,

w ith me said it w a s o n ly a stump I tu r n ed t o p ass o n , .

T he gli nt o f my rifle barrel must the n have caught

i n the s u n for a n oble stag sta r ted u p fr o m his lair
, ,

a n d w ith out pausi n g for a seco n d w heeled rou n d a n d

c la t tered a w ay My hasty sh ot m issed hi m clea n a n d

.
,

h e the n plu n ged i nto a ravi n e that lay a t the b ack

o f the hollo w he had bee n i n I follo wed across thi n k
.
,

i n g I m ight fi nd blood but there w a s n o sig n a n d I , ,

turn ed for home s w earing to expe n d a bullet in future

,

on eve r y teak stump that b o r e the most dista n t

’
resem b la n ce to a deer s h e ad The resembla n ce is so .

v ery close bet w ee n th e t wo obj ects tha t I ca nn ot but

thi n k that th e i n sti n ct o f the a nimal lea d s him t o
d is p ose o f his head so as to r esemble the b u n ch of teak .

E ve n the m otio n of th e large ears o f the s a mbar which ,

the y restrai n o nly w he n actually in the prese n ce o f

dan ger a ns w ers exactly t o the stirr i ng of a dried teak
,

l eaf i n a light bree z e I n deed no o n e can hunt i n these

.
25 2 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

scantily- covered hills w ithout w onderi ng at the extrem e

di fficulty of maki ng o u t s uch large animals as s a mbar ,

bison a nd bears o n the o p e n hill -

,
si d e The bison an d .

b ear precisely rese mble th e large black tra p boul d ers

that thickly stre w every hill ; an d thus the glari n g
co n tras t o f their black hi d es w ith the bright yello w
grass frequently attracts no atte n tion w hatever .

On my w a y back I knocked over a fo u r - h or ne d

antelope w ith very perfect hor ns a lo n g distan ce a cros s
, ,

a valley w ith the E xpress

“
These little creatures are
.

very commo n in the hills w e w ere h u n ti ng in livi ng ,

solitary o r i n small groups in a ll p arts o f the ra nge .

The femal e is hor nless while the buck has four d isti nc t
,

sheathed horn s The posterior pair are four o r fi v e

.

inches lo ng a n d set upon high pe d icles covered w it h

,

hair The anterior pair are ge n erally mere k n obs an d

.
,

never excee d in le ngth a n i nch a nd three - fourths I n .

s ome specime n s they are even absent altoge t her The .

animal is fou nd thr o u ghout I n d ia and appears to be ,

generally w ithout th e a nterior horns i n t he S outh .

H ere in C entral I n dia s ome hav e them a n d some h ave

, ,

no t . I n ever coul d see a ny other d iffe r ence bet w een

them ; but it is not altoge t her certain that there are
n o t t w o disti n ct species The prepo n dera n ce o f female s
.

appears t o be v ery great q u ite as g r eat as in the case

,

o f the ordinary I nd ian a n telo p e though from their n o t

,

cong r egati ng in large herds it is n o t s o much observe d

, .

To kill a buck at a ll is rare a n d to kill o n e w it h fo u r

,

w ell - develope d horns is much rarer still They see m .

to b e very retiri n g little creatures never coming t o ,

th e cr e ps a nd m ovi n g v ery little o u t o f the limited

,

area whe r e they fi nd food a nd water There is scarcely .

-
a ater hole in all these regio n s w hich is not fre q uente d
w
25 4 T HE H IGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

m u st k n o w w here to fi nd beasts The lit t l e block o f .

b ills w e w ere goi ng to visit is quite shu t i n from all

the ordi nar y li n es o f travelli ng i n these parts There .

is n o road i n to it by w hich carts c a n be take n ; cattle

a re n ever se n t t o gra z e there by the n eighbourin
g
vil l agers ; a n d thu s n o o ne ever goes into it except ,

in g a si n gle family o f Bhe el s w ho a re the hereditary ,

T u r v e es l of a n a n cie n t village said to h ave existed in

><
,

the palmy d ay s of Ma ho m e da n rul e i n o n e o f its valleys ,

a n d n o w rep r ese n ted b y half- a -

d oze n M b o w a trees th e ,

fr uit o f w hich these Bhe el s still go a nnu ally to gather .

T w o o f th e family happe n ed t o be amo n g o u r scouts ,

a n d k n e w every i n ch o f th e country The o n e w ho .

b r o u ght u s the n e w s rej oice d in the name of J hi ng r a o r

”
“
The S h r i m p ; a n d really by some fo r tuitous acci,

d e n t his lo n g atte nu ated arms an d legs a n d curiously

, ,

shrivelled featu r es w ith a fe w lo n g feeler -like bristles in

,

th e place o f a beard gave him a very st r o ng resembla n c e

,

to that i nn oce n t crustacea n The n ame of the other.

,

w ho had been left perched i n a tree to w atch th e beeves ,

cann ot b e ha n ded do w n to fa me havi n g bee n lost in ,

”
the seco n dary a ppellation o f The S ku nk I must say .

th e olfactory p o w ers o f the biso n lost greatly i n m y

estimatio n w he n I found that they had remai n ed quietly
gra z i n g for half a day w ithi n a mil e o r s o o f this m ost
o do r ous o f T u r v e es ! The S hrimp w a s very anxiou s
th at w e sh oul d procee d th ere a nd the n to attack the
b iso n u r gi ng ho w u n comfortabl e th e S ku n k w ould b e
,

if l eft cli ngi ng to the upper bran ches o f a tree all

n ig ht a nd patti n g his shrivelled stomach to sho w ho w
,

The T is the chief f a Bh l cl an o settle me n t ; nd all

u rv ee o ee r a

he d s f Dheel v illages in this p a t o f the c o u n t y

a o r o calle d b r a re s v

c u tesy
o r .
 T H E T EA K REGI O N .

d elighted they b oth w ould be to be at cl o se qu arte r s

w ith a biso n steak We pitied the S ku n k a nd p o i nted
.
,

o u t to the S hrimp a qua r ter of s a mbar v e n iso n ha n i ng

g
u
p fr om w hich h e might satisfy hi s o w n cravi n gs ; but

w e h ad n o idea of starti n g o ff af t er b iso n six miles a w ay

’

in t ha t count ry at th r ee o clock in the aftern o o n .

I t w a nted a good deal o f arra ngeme nt i n fact to , ,

hu nt that cou ntry ; a n d w e n ever fou n d o u t the prope r

w a y to do it till j ust as w e w ere leavi n g it A s it .

w a s w e sent round a te n t a n d the n ee d fu l supplies

,

by a very circuitou s road do w n o u r valley to the plai n

, ,

along the foot of the hills for a go od ma ny miles a n d ,

the n u p a n other valley that wa s said to r u n i nto the

heart o f the b ison cou n try The people had directio n s
.

to go as far up the valley as they could fi nd w ater a n d ,

p itch there We w ere to go straight across n ext day

.
,

a n d aft er hu n ting u p th e biso n

,
come do w n the head
,

o f th e fu r ther valley to the camp ; a n d dearly w e paid

fo r givi n g such indefi n ite i n structio n s before w e w ere

do n e .

N ext mor n i n g w e started u n der the guida n ce of

th e S hri m p a n d m ounted o n t w o red oubtable D e c c a n e c
,

p onies who w e had fou n d could go i n these b il ls where

,

eve r w e could and saved u s a good l o t o f hard w ork

,

i n the sun .The w a y lay up a lo n g b urnt valley i n ,

w hich tracks of s a m b ar a n d the pug o f a large tiger

,

w ho had bee n follo wi n g them duri n g the n ight w ere ,

plai nly v isible I t w a s t o o late ho w ever to see a ny

.
, ,

game o u t in such o p e n cou n t r y ; a n d w e w ou n d u p the

rugged path w ay leadi ng to the top o f the hill w ithout
havi n g come across a si ngle a nimal .

“Te n o w came o n to a tole r ably level p lateau a nd ,

rode o n for some miles kee p ing a shar p look -

, o u t fo r
25 6 T H E HIGHLANDS OF C E N T R AL INDIA .

a nimal s The plateau w a s begi n ni ng to shelve do w n

.

to w ar d s a ravine filled w i t h clumps o f bamboo b eyo n d ,

w hich ros e another flat - topped ridge w h en my eye ,

reste d o n a spot o f d enser shado w in the thin s a lei

j u ngle that toppe d th e further ri dge Pulli ng u p to .

use the binocular I discovered the w hole herd o f biso n

,

grazing quietly i n th e cover We w ere a couple o f.

miles a w ay at le a st and sile n tly w ithdre w into a hollo w

,

that w oul d lead u s do w n into the ravine T a n d I . .

n o w a d vance d w ith th e S hrimp leavi ng o u r p onies and

,

the oth er Bheel s t o follo w us o n heari n g a shot We .

ha d a long h ot stalk a nd o n reachi n g the plateau found

, ,

that the h er d had disapp eared The p lace w a s evide ntly

.

a regular resort o f th e w ild cattle the long grass b eing ,

t wisted a b out into w isps by their feet and all th e .

bushes broke n a nd graze d aw ay We stalked over th e .

p lat eau w ith cocked rifles the S hrimp s w armi ng trees

,

to look o u t ah ead ; but n o bee ves did w e see except ,

a c o w a n d her little calf m aki n g o ff over a d istan t

risi n g groun d at a slo w trot the sunlight gla n ci n g
,

e very n o w a nd agai n o n their b eautifully -

bronzed hides .

There w ere so many tracks that to follo w the h er d wa s

ho p eless ; the S kunk w a s no wh ere t o be see n ; an d s o
w e coast ed rou n d th e edge o f the plateau p eeri n g d o w n ,

a mo n g th e b amboo clum p s i n th e hope o f discoveri n g

the herd A fter goi n g about half rou n d I suddenly

.

a lmost ran u p a gainst a c o w in s om e lo n g grass ; and

immediately T who wa s a little t o my r ight called

.
, ,

out that the w hol e herd w a s standi n g do w n belo w

amo n g th e bamboos My c o w had bolte d o ff in a
.

great fright a n d I r a n u p to T in time to see ten o r

, .

t w elve biso n s crambli ng up th e opp osit e side o f th e

—
ravi e a lo ng shot fro m w here w e w ere
n A bull .
25 8 T HE HIGHLAND S OF C EN T RA L INDIA .

to a motio n less coal - black form stan d i ng agai ns t the

sky - line w hich th e telesco p e sho w ed t o be a mighty
,

bull H e stoo d fo r a few mi n utes till th e co ws came u p

.

a n d passe d acros s him an d then stalke d solemnly after

,

t hem H e t o o w a s n o doubt goi ng t o D ho w t ea ! We

.
, ,

w ere w alki n g o n d isgusted w hen my eye caught another

j et -black figure amo n g the trees a hea d o f u s a n d w e ,

crouched into n othing a s another bull w alked slo wly

in to a n o p e n s p ace about half a m ile ahead A fter .

g a zing rou n d in every direction he slo wly began t o

d esce n d to th e same valley H e t o o a p peare d like the
.
, , ,

rest o f the m to have started for D ho wt e a

,
B ut h e wa s .

n o t t h ere yet an d w e determi n e d at least t o give him a

,

r u n for it so w aiting till he wa s conceal ed by the fall

,

o f the groun d w e doubled d o w n a rocky w ater -

,
cours e t o
cu t him o ff if p ossible from the vall ey We succee d ed
, , .

for he evidently g o t o u r w ind and sheered o ff from the

,

p ass d o w n to the river w alking slo w l y an d mag nificently

al o n g the edge o f a p recipitous fall a pp arently l ooki ng ,

for an oth er wa y do wn There wa s none su ch ho w ever ;

.
,

an d w e follo wed him along in short ru n ni n g stalks ,

gaining o n him every time h e g o t hid d en for a mi n ute

by inequalities o f the ground The hill w e w ere o n .

grad u ally n arro we d to the sa d dleback form so comm on

i n t his ra n ge a n d n o t far ahead seeme d to termi n ate in
,

a n abru p t descent to the va l ley There seemed to be n o

.

doubt w e ha d him in a trap if w e w oul d o n ly h ave

patience ; for he must either take that h eader to reach
the valley o r charge back alo ng the ridge over o u r
,

man gle d corpses H e b ecame very cautious as he neared

the e nd zig z agging across the narro w ri d ge a n d using
, ,

a ll his se n ses to detect the p ursuer h e evide n tly su s

p ec t e d We w ere slo wl y roasti ng o n the bare shadeles s

.
,
 T HE T EA K REGI O N . 25 9

sheet o f basalt that top p e d the ri d ge lying as w e ha d to ,

d o p rone o n it to escap e his sight I w oul d h ave given .

a rupee p er d rop fo r the contents o f o u r w ater - sack j ust

the n At last aft er w hat seemed an age the tall black
.
, ,

form o f the bull slo wly sa nk over the end o f the hill H e .

w a s goi ng d o wn the n aft er all and there w a s nothi ng for

, , ,

i t but a r u sh . A r u sh we accordi ngly made but su d

d enl y p ulled u p much taken aback as w e s a w the bull
, ,

agai n emerge a nd stan d i n full sight o f us though m uch ,

covered ab out the b ody by scr u bby s a lei ste ms o n the ,

e xtreme p oint o f the ridge I t wa s really a most

.

ticklish situation H ad he charge d a n d o u r shots

.
,

faile d to sto p him T might have escap ed w ith a fe w

,

broken bo n es by rolli ng do wn o n his side o f t he hill ;

b u t o n mi n e there -w a s a shee r descen t o f a hu ndre d feet ,

and th e ridge i t self offered not the slightest shelter Bu t .

- -
w e each ha d a double barrelled breech loadi ng t w elve , ,

bore r ifle— a b atte r y agai nst w hich fe w a nimals can

stand I s a w T sighti ng hi m a n d h eard the bull emit a
. .
,

l o w tremulous moa n that sou n d e d like mischief H is .

v itals w ere protected fro m me by the s a lei stems so ,

I kept my do u b l e shot in reser v e i n case o f accide n ts .

Th e ball thudded agai n st somethi ng as it tu r n ed o u t , ,

p r obably a s a lei tree ; a nd th e bull at o n ce disappeared

o v er the edge We n o w r a n to the spot a n d s a w him
.
,

belo w thu n deri ng do w n th e steep hill - side at a tre

m e ndons pace U tterly w i nd ed by run n i ng a nd half
.
,

dead w ith heat a nd thirst th e remai ning three shots had

,

no effect and then w e s at do wn perfectly exhausted t o , ,

w atch t he b ull as he gai ne d th e valley and crossed the

stream - b ed halti n g for a fe w seco n ds u n d er a shady
,

t r ee to look back ere he set himself to mo unt the

fu r t her slo p e which he d i d in the li n e taken by the
,

s 2
2 60 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T R AL I NDIA .

other biso n H e too w a s fairly o ff for D ho w t ea — an d

.
, , ,

as it seemed a nd w e hoped seei ng that w e coul d n o t ,

have him w ithout a w ound

,
.

L ife w a s n o w a blank The S hrimp had li ngere d

.

far behi nd a n d there w a s n o o ne to sho w u s

,

the w a y w hil e the S ku n k w a s goo d n ess k n o w s w h ere

,

w ith th e po n ies a n d w ater S o w e slo w ly a nd sa d ly

.

descende d th e hill to o u r o wn valley a n d w alked on in ,

the probabl e directio n o f camp che w i n g grass in o u r ,

s p eechless mouths A b out a mile fu r ther o n w e w ere

.

j oi ned by th e villai n ous S hrimp who had taken a li n e ,

o f his o w n for home w hen he s a w us be n t o n pushi n g

the big bull to extremities There wa s n o w ater in all

.

this valley h e said excepti ng o n e pool miles ah ea d

, ,

w h ere our camp shoul d be A fter getting th e d irectio n

.
,

w e started hi m off t o fi n d th e po n ies a n d w ater a n d

bri ng the m to meet us I t w a s n o w midday a n d th e
.
,

su n w a s blazing h o t — a quive r i n g ha z e that made th e

eyes t w inkle playi n g along the surface of the earth .

A fter ploddi n g along fo r som e miles m ore w e cam e t o ,

a path way by w hich w e thought the po n ies must p ass

and there w e sat do wn compl etely exhau sted in th e
scanty sh ade o f a w ild fi g -tree A m ho wa gre w close .

by a n d s ome o f its luscious fl o w ers t empte d u s to try

,

if t hey w oul d assuage o u r r a gin g thirst Bah ! never .

w a s a nythi n g m ore horrible tha n t he clammy taste a n d

fetid odou r o f that sicke n ing produ ct O u r m ouths .

w ere n o w glue d u p as w ell as parch ed and w hen at last ,

the people came w e coul d o n ly make si g ns for the

w ate r a n d replied n o t at all to th e S ku n k w h en he
,

assured u s t hat a big bear had been besiegi n g him a nd

t he po n ies o n the road for ever so lo ng n o t very far
from w he r e w e w ere A fte r a d r aught that n o o ne
.
262 T H E HIGHLA ND S OF CEN T R AL INDIA .

a pp arently halted fo r th e d ay in a sha d y p lace T wo o f .

them app eare d t o h ave fi rs t - rate antl ers and we stalked

,

round a long w a y t o get in o n the m from a bove an d ,

w ithout givi n g them o u r w in d We blu n d ere d it

.
,

ho wever comi n g d o w n at t he w ro n g p oint and t he

, ,

her d broke a long w a y to o u r left hand T fire d i nt o . .

their backs as t hey s t r u g g led up th e o pp osite slope in a

'

confuse d gang b ut w ithout a pp are n t effect ; and t he

,

last o f them w a s disappearing over th e bro w w h en I took

a long shot at him w it h my si ngle E x p ress
“ ”
I t wa s .

t wo hu n d re d a n d fifty yar d s at th e l east b ut I had ,

often before killed as far with this rifle a n d d o wn he ,

d ropped . C r ossi ng over w e fou nd the stag lying dead

,

but though i t w a s o n e of the t w o w e ha d marked his

, ,

antlers w ere very i n ferior N othi ng is m ore d ecep t i ve

.

than t he a pp are n t size o f s a mbar s horns w hil e stalking

’

as th ey have all th e same nu mber o f p oi nts the g u ide ,

t o size an d q uality a fforded by th e branches o f the re d

d eer is here w anting O n exami n ation we found thi s
.

t o b e st ill a noth er instance o f the curious occurre n ce s

before mentioned for it w a s b all after all that had
kille d him while mine ha d misse d
,

A fter this w e made a long rou n d through th e hill s

looki ng for biso n but wi th ou t success ; and w ere de
,

scen d i ng to w ards the cam p by a lo n g narro w spu r o f

bare basalt w he n w e s a w the S ku n k near the t o p o f
,

a n isolated e m i ne n ce risi ng o u t o f th e valley viole ntly ,

signalling to u s ; a n d s oon after w e w ere scanni ng t he

proportions o f a fine bull bison lyi ng do wn o n the
further side u nder the shade o f a small tree I t wa s ~ .

v ery easy stalk and w e cre p t in t o ab out seve nty yard s

,

in the grass T fire d both barrels at him as he l ay

. .
,

w hich is al w ays a mistake the vital regio n s bei ng the n

,
 T H E T EA K RE GI O N . 263

greatly shielde d by the enormo u s develo p ment o f the

s houlder a nd d orsal ri d ge H e s p rang u p an d p lunged
.

a w ay across o u r front s wervi n g roun d to wards u s i n a

,

fas hion that ma d e the Bhe el s take to th eir heels On .

receiving my shots ho w ever h e t urne d agai n a n d exe

, , ,

eu ting a most extraordi nary series o f p lu nges w ith his ,

he a d bet ween his fore legs- a n d n -

hi d quarters a nd tail i n
t he air d isap p eare d d o w n a small ravi n e
,
We we r e soon .

u p an d follo w e d alo n g the side I wa s rather ahead

,
.
,

a n d found him lyi n g very sick i n t he bottom o f the

hollo w Whe n be perceive d m e he s taggered up and

.

shook his horn s in a threatening manner but it w a s a ll

u p w ith the p oor brute and a shot in the neck rolled
,

him over finally o n his back I think if o u r yester d ay s

.
’

bull had b een as v iciously incli n e d as this fello w w e ,

might have h ad more o f it than w e bargaine d fo r o n

that narro w le d ge .

We had to return next day to the s tation and bid ,

adieu t o these si ngular hills Th e ho t season wa s fai r ly

.

o n w hen n o o n e can lo n g en d ure the exertion o f hunti n g

,

o n foo t the s a mbar and biso n l n hilly country My .

r e aders w ill probably think I ha v e described to them

b u t p oor sport com p ared to w hat they hav e often read
of before I t is
. so easy to thro w in half-a -
d ozen bull
’
biso n in a day s sport by a stroke o f a pen that the ,

temptation to me et the w ishes o f the reader is d ifiic u lt

t o resist I have ho w ever stuck t o t he exact facts o f a
.
, ,

by n o mean s heavy bag o n purpos e t o give a more

,

a ccurate idea o f w hat such shoo t i n g really means

n amely very ha rd w ork a nd muc h exposure for a n

,

a verag e o f certai n ly n o t more than o n e hea d o f game a

day a n d ofte n much less On e o f the hardest w orkers

,
.

an d b e st sh ots I ever kne w who ha d only tim e fo r a fe w

,
264 T H E HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

w eeks biso n a nd s a mbar shooting in the year a nd t hen

’
,

went at it tooth and nail tol d me h e w a s al w ays prou d

,

if he coul d k ee p his average u p to o ne a d ay fo r t he

S AMBA R s
no r m .
(S ca le
,
o ne t ent h
.
)

time h e wa s o u t ; a nd I a m certain that very fe w ever

do so m uch By taki ng every chance at co w bison an d
.

d o c s a mbar o f course the bag coul d be largely increase d

,

and I heard o f t w o men w ho o ne year murdered in this

 CH A PT ER V I I .

TH E T I GE R .

WH I L E wandering about duri n g the m onths o f A p ri l

an d May in the teak forests o f the B et u l d istrict I
, ,

d evoted a d ay n o w and then t o the s p or t o f tiger~

shooting ; an d it wa s th e lau dable custo m o f th e forest
o fficers t o spare if p ossible every year a fe w week s
, ,

duri n g the height o f the ho t seaso n fo r the p ur p ose o f

,

maki ng an im p ression o n the nu merous tigers w hic h a t

that time ren d ered w orking in the forests an d carryi ng
timber s o dreade d by th e nati ves an d consequen t ly
,

costly t o G overnment .

A lth ough there is m uch in the sport o f tiger

hunting that renders it inferior as a mere exercise o r as ,

an effort o f skill t o some other purs u its o f these region s

,

(f or m a n y a man h as kille d his forty o r fift y tigers who

has n ever succe e d ed in baggi n g by fair stalking a single

, ,

bull bison o r a stag s a mbar) yet there is a stirring o f

,

the blo o d in attacking an animal b efore w ho m every

other beast o f the forest quails and an u narme d man is
,

helpless as the m ous e under the p a w o f the cat —a

creature at the same time matchless i n beauty o f form
an d colour a n d in terribl e po w er o f o ff ensive armature
—which draw s m en to its continue d pursuit after that
,
 T HE T IGER . 26 7

of every other animal has cease d t o affor d sufficie nt

excitement to un d ergo the toil of hunti ng in a tro p ical
country .

I t w ill have bee n gathered from previous descri p tio ns

that the hot seaso n the height o f w hich is in A pril and
,

May is the most favourable time for hunting the tiger

, .

The n the w ater supply o f th e country is at its lo west

e bb a nd the tiger bei n g very impatie n t of thirst seeks
, ,

the lo w est valleys w here too m uch o f the game he

, , ,

p reys o n has co ngregated and w here the v illage cattle

,

are regul a rly w atered I n C entral I ndia tigers va ry a

.

good deal in their habits a n d range ; a nd they may be

roughly classe d i nto thos e w hich habitually p rey o n
w ild a n imals those w hich live chiefly o n d omestic ca t tle
, ,

a n d a fe w that co nfi n e their diet to the human s p ecies .

N ot o f course t hat a ny tiger adheres invariably to the

, ,

sam e sort o f prey But there are a large number that

.

a ppear to prefer each o f the former methods of existence ,

and a fe w that s elect the latter .

-
The regular game killi ng tiger is retired i n hi s
habits livi ng chiefly am o ng the hills retreati ng readily
, ,

from m a n a nd is altoge t her a ve r y i nnocuous a ni mal if

,
,

not even p osi t ively beneficial in keepi ng do w n the her d s

o f deer and n i l g a i that prey upo n t he crops H is hot .

w eather hau n t is usual l y some rocky ravi n e amo n g the

hills w here pools of w ater remai n a nd shelvi ng rocks o r
, ,

overha ngi ng tr e es affo r d him shel t er from the s u n H e .

is a light -made beast (called by shik a ri s a lodhia (nig h) ,

very active a n d e n du r i ng and fro m this as w ell as his

, ,

shyness ge n erally difficult to bri ng to b ag

, .

The cattle - lifte r agai n is usually an ol d er an d

, ,
’

heav i er a nimal (called o o ntz a heig /L fro m his faintly ,

stri p ed coat resembli ng the colour o f a camel ) very ,

2 68 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T R AL INDIA .

fl eshy a n d i n d isposed t o severe exertio n I n the cool

,
.

seaso n he follo ws the herds o f cattle w herever they go

to graze ; a nd the n n o dou bt i n th e lo n g damp grass
, ,

brings ma n y a head o f game also to ba g I n the ho t .

w eather ho wever the ope n ness o f th e forest an d th e

, ,

numerous falle n leaves preclude a la z y mo n ster o f this

s ort from
g etti n g at game ; a n d h e the n locates himself

i n some stro ng cover clos e to w ater a n d in the neigh

, ,

bo u r ho o d o f w h ere th e cattle are take n t o drink a n d

r az e about o n th e greener herb a ge the n found by the
g
sides o f streams a n d w atchi ng his o pp ortu nity kills a
, , ,

bullock as he requires it and drags i t i n to his cover O f

,
.

course a good ma n y head o f game are also kille d by

,

s uch a tiger w hen they come to d ri n k b ut so l o ng as he ,

c a n easily p rocure cattle he d oes not trouble himself t o

,

h u nt fo r th em .

N ative shik a ri s recog nise more o r less t wo kin ds o f

’

tige r s w ith th e n ames I have given ab ove I t may b e

, .

m atter for speculatio n which is cause a n d w hich is ,

e ffect. I s it that as tigers gro w o ld a n d heavy they

t ke
a t o -
the easier life o f cattle lifti ng ? O r has th e
d i ff erence o f their pursuits co n ti n u ed for generations
, ,

a c tu ally resulte d i n separate bree d s each more ada p te d

,

fo r its hereditary method o f existe n ce ? I myself , ,

b elieve the former to b e the truth a nd that there really ,

i s o n ly o n e variety o f tiger in all pe n i ns ular I ndi a It .

is o nly to extrem e specime n s that t he above distinctive

names are a p plied ; a n d the great m aj ority are o f an
i n te r mediate character a n d n o t disti nguished by a ny
,

particular n ame Th e larger a n d o lder the a n imal the

.
,

m o r e y ello w his coat becomes a nd the fainter an d ,

fu r the r apart are th e stripes S mall tigers are s ome

.

t imes s o cro w de d w ith th e black stripes as almost t o

2 70 T HE HIGHLANDS OF C E N T R AL INDIA .

meeti ngs More usually it is a solitary m ale tiger

.
,

o r a tiger a n d tigress o r a tigress w ith her gro w n - u

, p
cubs that are foun d in o n e place Th e tigress cannot
, .

b ree d m ore than o n ce i n three years I believe ; for ,

the cubs almost invar iably stay with her till t hey are
over t w o years o l d and n early full gro wn Th e greatest
, .

n umber of cubs I have ever fou n d w ith a tigress wa s

three These w ere small ho w ever and I never s a w

.
, ,

more tha n t wo gro wn - u

p alo n g w ith th e female .

A si ngl e tiger w ill kill a n ox abou t every five

days if n o t disturbe d eating if very hungry bot h hi n d
, , , ,

qu arters the first n ight H e w ill n o t go furth e r than

.

h e can h elp after this meal but w ill return again n ext
,

ni ght to t he carcase w hich in the meantime h e often

,

stores a w ay u nder a ba nk o r covers w ith leaves etc

, ,
.

Th is time h e w ill fi nish all but the hea d ; n ext night

he w ill clean th e b o nes ; a n d the n fo r a cou p le o f d ays
he w ill n o t take th e tro u ble to h u nt for a meal though ,

he w ill strike do wn another q u ar r y if it comes near him .

S hould h e h ave b een fired at ho w ever w he n thus , ,

retu r ni ng to his kill h e w ill frequ en tly aba n d o n such

,

measures o f eco n omy an d kil l a fresh bullock w h enever

,

he is h u ngry A tigress a n d gro wn cubs are also far

.

more d estru ctive fi nishing a bullock in a n ight a nd

, , ,

like the d au ghter o f the horse -leech al w ays cry ing fo r ,

more The you ng tigers seem to rej oice in the exercise

.

of thei r gro w i ng strength springing u p a gai nst trees

,

a nd s cratchi ng the bark as high as th ey c a n reach

by w a y o f gymnastics and if they get am ong a herd of
, ,

cattle striki ng do w n a s many as they can get hold o f

, .

“
The tiger very seldom kills his prey by the sledge
hammer stroke o f his fore p a w so ofte n talked about , ,

the u sual wa y bei n g to seize w ith the teeth by the na p e

 TIIE T IG E R . 27 1

o f the neck a n d at th e same time use the p aw s

,

t o hol d the v ictim and give a p urchase for the wrench

,

that dislocates the neck .

Tigers that p rey o n cattle are generally p erfectly

w ell kno w n t o th e co w herds a nd others who resort
to their ne ighbourhoo d T hey seldom m olest m e n and
.
,

a r e often d riven away from thei r p rey after killi ng it , ,

by th e u n arme d herds Frequ ently they are kno w n

.

by particular names ; a n d they really seem in many

c ases t o live amo ng th e v illagers and their herds m uch
—
like a semi domesticated animal tho u gh from a mutu al , ,

co n se n t t o avoid direct i ntervie w s a s mu ch as p ossible ,

they a r e chiefly k n o wn by their t r acks i n the river b eds

a n d by their de p redations o n th e cattle They d o no t .
,

o f course co nfi n e their attacks t o th e cattle o f a si n gle

,

v illage usually havi ng a w hole circle o f them w here

,

they are o n visiti ng terms and among w hich they ,

d ist r ibute their favours w ith great impar t iality Th e .

d amage they do o n the w hole is very great sixty o r ,

seve nty head o f cattle w orth fr om £ 5 to £ 1 0 apiece

, ,

bei ng destroyed by o n e such a n imal i n the course o f

a year . G e n erally t here is at least o ne native i n every
circle o f villages w hose professio n is that o f
o r hu n ter a n d w ho is al w ays o n the outlook t o shoot
,

the village tiger Wh e n he hears o f a bullock havi ng

.

been kill ed he proceeds to the s p ot a n d erecting a , ,

platform o f leafy boughs in the nearest tree w atches ,

b y n ight for the retur n o f th e tiger w ho though he , ,

m a y kill a n d lap the blood during the day never feeds ,

before su n set G e n erally he does not get a shot the

.
,

tiger bei ng extremely suspicious w hen approachi ng his

kill a n d the shik a ri s bei ng usually s uc h bu nglers at
,

their w ork as to disturb him by the noise o f their p re

2 72 T HE H IGHLANDS OF C E N T RAL INDIA .

pa ra t io ns . O ften h e m isses w hen

h e d oes sh oot t he ,

j u ngle - ki n g b ei n g some w hat tryi ng to th e n erves an d

i f he kills o n e tiger in th e cours e o f th e year h e con
s id ers himself lu cky H is w eapo n is a lo ng matchlock
.
,

“ ”
w hich he l oads w ith six fi n gers o f po w der and t wo
b u l lets . These fly a little apa r t a n d if they hit are ,

u sually the death o f th e tiger H is method of shooting

.

i s someti m es imitated by lazy E uro p ea n sportsmen .

A n oth er w a y o f hu n ti n g ordi n ary tigers is to beat

them o u t o f their mi dd ay retrea t w ith a strong gang
o f b eaters supplied w ith drums fire w orks etc t he
, , ,
.
,

gu n s themselves being p osted at likely spots ahead .

This plan i s ofte n successfu l w h en the op erations a r e

,

directe d by some o n e who k n o w s the grou n d Frequ ently .

,

h o w e v er the tiger is n o t fou n d at a ll and moreo ver he

, ,

very commonly ma n ages to escape at the sides o r break ,

b ack through th e beat without coming u p to the gun s

,

at all I t has also th e disadvantage o f ex p osi n g t he

.

b eate r s to mu ch da nger ; and there are fe w w ho shoot

in this fashion w ho have n o t had more than o n e beate r
killed before them To stalk i n o n a tiger in his retreat
.

o n foot is ge n erally impracticable as a man command s ,

s o littl e of a vie w in thick cover that he r arely sees t he

tiger in tim e for a sh ot I n some places h ow ever .
, ,

w here tige r s lie in rocky p laces i n accessible to elephants ,

this is the o nly w a y t o do ; and a very certai n o n e it

then is there bei n g ge ne rally little cover a nd plenty o f
,

comma n di ng el evations w hence to see a nd s hoot The .

b est w a y o f hunti n g th e tiger is un doubtedly that

u sually ado p ted in C entral I ndia — n amely to b r i n g in

the aid of the trained elephan t an d follo w a nd sh oot ,

him in his midday retreat A ny o n e who thi nks he has

.

o nly got to mou n t himself on the back o f a n elephant ,

2 74 T HE HIGHLAND S OF CEN T R AL INDIA .

a nd w he nthis is no t the case the sport generally

resolves itself i nto an u n d ig nifi e d s neaki ng about the
outskirts o f th e covers in th e hope of getti n g a n
,

occasional p ot - shot from a secure positio n I n this.

method o f hunti n g many more tigers are wounde d

th an are finally secured the only da nger lyi n g in,

fo llo w i n g up a w ou n de d a nimal w hich is u su ally ,

avoided ; a nd thus a n in n ocuou s a n imal is ofte n con

verted i nto a scourge of the cou n try -si d e A very .

few sportsme n do for a short pe r iod o f their li ves

, ,

make a practice of hu n ti ng and shooti n g tigers really

on foot ; but they are seldom very successful an d ,

sooner or later get killed o r have su ch n arro w escapes

,

as to cure them of such silly folly fo r the remai n der

of their day s A m a n o n foot has n o chan ce w hat
.

eve r in thick j u ngl e w ith a tiger that is b e nt o n

killi n g him H e can not s ee a yard before him a n d
.
,

is himself co n spicu ous to every s e n s e o f the brute ,

w ho c a n completely hi d e i n a p lace that looks scarcely

e n o u gh to co n ceal a rat a n d c a n move at w ill through
,

the thickest cover w ith out the slightes t sou n d o r stir .

A t t he same time the sportsma n w ho as a rule use s

a n elepha n t in thick cover w ill fi n d quite enough
op p ortu nities in special cases o f testi ng his n erve o n
, ,

foot p articularly if he marks do wn a n d tracks his

,

o wn game i n stead o f empl oyi ng shik a ri s to do so .

E ve n o n the el ep han t all is not perfect safety in ,

sta n ces being not rare o f elephants bei ng completely

pulled do wn by tigers w hile acci d e n ts from the runni ng
,

a w ay o f th e elepha n t in tre e j u ngl e are still m ore

commo n Much o f the excite m e n t of the spo r t depe n ds
.

o n the sportsma n s method of attacki n g the tige r

’
Som e .

men box a tiger up i n a cor n er a n d push in a t all

 T HE T IGER . 275

ha z ards getti ng repeatedly charged w hile others keep

, ,

at a d is t an ce circli ng rou n d a n d offeri ng d o ors of

,

escape to the tiger an d n ever get a cha r ge at all A s

, .

a rule w hen o n a n elepha n t in fai r grou nd the

, ,

obj ect shou ld b e to get the tiger to char ge i n stead of

letti ng him s n eak a way as the hu n t is the n e n ded in
,

a shor t a n d exciti n g e n cou nter w hile if let a w ay it ,

may be hours before he is fou n d agai n if h e ever is at ,

all.

The fi r st difficulty is to get reliabl e i n formation

o f the prese n ce o f tigers in a particular n eighbour
hood A g r eat ma ny reaso n s besides the simple o ne
.
,

“
to w hich it is u sually att r ibuted namely that they , ,
”
are cursed nigge r s combi n e t o make the n atives in
,

most p l aces very u n w illi n g t o give i n fo r matio n about

tigers Firstly it is likely t o b ri n g do w n a la r ge
.
,

“ ”
encampme n t of S a hibs o n thei r village w hic h ,

they very j us tly in most c a s e s dislike The milita r y

, ,
.

officer w ho scorn s t o lear n th e ru r al la nguage a n d ,

his trai n o f ove r b eari ng s w i n dli ng serva nts w ho fully

, ,

carr y o u t th e p r i n ciple that from him w ho hath n o t

w hat little he hath shall b e taken a w ay a nd that ,

w ithout a price too sti nk i n th e n ost r ils of the poor

, ,

i nhabita n ts o f the t r acts w here tigers are fo u n d The .

tiger himself is i n fact far mor e endurable than those

, ,

w ho e n camp over agai nst them to make w a r upo n

him a n d demand from them g r ai n a n d o the r supplies
,

w hich they have n o t a nd carts etc to carr y th e

, , , .
,

camp w hich they w a n t to u s e for other u r ge n t pur

,

poses The n th ey fear that th ey w ill b e made to

.

beat for the tige r — both those w ho a r e w illi ng a n d

those w ho are n o t — w ith a co nsidera b l e cha n ce o f
getti ng killed and ve r y little o f bei n g paid for their
,

T 2
276 T H E HIGH LAN D S OF C E N T R AL IND I A .

services There are fe w w ell -k n o w n resorts o f tigers

.

w here som e story o f th e sort has not been hande d

do w n among th e p eople The first essential to w ards
.

getti n g sport is to conciliate the w illi n g c o -operation

o f the people an d make it p lai n to them t hat you r
,

a rra ngements for supplies are such as to thro w n o

u n bearabl e burden o n a poor cou n try a nd that your ,

method o f hu n t ing is n o t o n e to lead to th e constan t

risk o f life S uch ho w e ver is th e w a n t o f sympathy
.
, ,

often e nge n d e r ed in t he n atu r ally generous En glish

m a n by th e fact o f his becomi n g a m ember o f the
ruli ng caste i n I n dia th at sportsm e n w ill s ometimes
,

b e h eard o n their retur n from an u n su ccessful e x p e

dition in w hich they had harried a quiet pop ulation
w ho di d n o t w a n t th eir tigers killed at all o n their
t erms cursi n g an d s w eari ng at them a n d p erhaps e ve n
, ,

expressi ng little regret t hat a few o f the m had been

sac r ificed to their bungli n g ardour O n the other hand .
,

a properly organ ise d expedition w here the sportsman ,

provides his o w n supplies a n d his m eans o f hunti ng

the tigers is certai n t o meet w ith every c o -
,
operatio n
from th e p eople They w ill even cro w d i n to hel p
.

i n d r ivi ng the j ungles w he n they k n o w they are to

,

w o rk fo r a good sportsman and shot who w ill n o t

u n n ecessarily risk their lives .

Wi t h luck a n d fi r s t -rate arra n gements a fe w tigers

m a y b e got in th e cold w eather A goo d m a n y .

persons will remember a hu nt i n the m onth o f

Jan ua r y 1 8 6 1 w hen w e secu r e d a royal tiger for the
, ,

G ov ern or- G e n eral o f I n d ia o n his first visit t o the

,

cent r e o f his domi n ions w ithin a mile o r t wo o f the

,

cantonment o f J u bbu lpur I mou n te d se n try over

.

t hat beast for n early a w e ek g irdi ng him i n a little ,

2 78 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

fur nishi ng such ple n tiful shade at this arid season

ca nn ot b ut b e admired I t is j ust at the time w he n
.

all n ature begi n s to quiver i n th e fierce su n a n d b urn i n g

b lasts o f A pri l that the ba nyan a n d peep u l figs a nd ,

the ever prese n t ma ngo b egin to thro w o u t a fr es h crop

,

o f leaves ,
t hose o f the first tree bei ng t hen moreov er
charged w ith a thick milky j uice that for ms a n im
pe n etrable n o n- co n ductor to the sun s rays ’
.

R idi ng up to his camp pitche d in the c o ol shado wy

,

depths of some grove like this the sports m an will

,

pro b ably fi nd assemble d th e vil l age headma n w ith a ,

small trai n o f cultivators and co w he r ds w aiti n g to ,

r eceive hi m w ith som e simple o fferi ng — a p ot of m ilk ,

or a b u n ch o f plantains from his garde n I f he is .

w elcome tales w ill n o t b e w a n ting o f the n eighbouri n g

,

t igers — ho w R am S i ngh s c o w w a s take n out o f t he

’

h e r d a fe w days before o r Bhy r o n the village w atch

, ,

goi ng o n a n e r r an d w e n t do wn for a drink t o the river

, ,

a nd there came o n a tigress w it h her c u bs bathi n g by

its bri nk . That yout h himself w ill chi m e in and ,

graphically d escrib e ho w he took to a t r e e a n d w a s

kept there all night — th e same bei n g probably a
euphemism for a n ight p assed w ith some boon com
n n -
panions at a eighbouri g grog sh o p The u s u al haunts .

o f the tiger w ill b e descri b ed and th e si z e of his foot

p r ints and w idth o f his head b e d r a w n to a greatly
exaggerated scale . The shik a ri o f the n eighbourhood
w ill be p rese n t o r can be sent for — a long gau n t figure
, ,

clad in a ragged shirt of Mho wa gree n w ith a di ngy ,

t ur b a n t w isted rou n d his shaggy locks a n d fur n ished ,

w it h th e usual lo ng small - bored matchlock w ith i t s ,

b u lky po w der - fl a s k o f bison hor n and smaller su p ply

,

o f fi n e primi n g po w der kept carefully i n a hor n of the

 T HE T IGER . 2 79

ga z elle
. R upees o r a prospect of t hem w ill b e w a nted
, ,

to loosen his to ngue and t hen his stateme nts w ill likely
,

be studiously vague H is hea r ty ser vices must be

.

secu r ed ho w ever for he alone kno ws i ntimately the

, ,

w ays a n d hau nts of the tiger a nd he alo n e w ill have ,

the pl uck to accompa ny you o r your shik a ri to mar k

hi m do w n . I f y o u are k n o w n to be a good paymaster
h e w ill w illi ngly serve you other wise yo u must promise,

him a ha n dsome d o u ce u r in case of success to i n duce ,

hi m to spoil his o w n cha n ce of claimi ng the G over n me nt

r e w ard
. This re ward w a s till fi na n cial difficulties r e
,

d u c e d it to half fifty rupees

,
a n d as all sportsme n ,

w ere entitled to claim it i t used to go far to cover the

,

cost of the hu nt I used al ways to divi d e it equally

.

bet ween the village shik a ri if he w ork ed w ell a n d my, ,

o wn shik a ri a n d elepha n t driver No w ho wever the

’

.
, ,

sportsman w ill fi n d himself a good deal o u t o f p ocket

by every tiger he kills .

More p r ecise i nformatio n must be sought for by the

sportsman hi mself The village shik a ri k n o w s n ot hi n g
.

of o ur syste m o f hu nti ng b y attacki ng the tiger in

his midday lair H is perso n al experience o f hi m has
.

p r obably b een co nfi n e d to n octurn al i nter vie ws from the

tops o f trees bu t he will b e ce r tai n to k n o w his habits
a nd usual resorts a nd also w hereabo u ts he is at th e
,

time bei n g I t is n ecessary therefore for some o ne to

.
, ,

go o u t wit h hi m who k n o ws o u r s t yle o f w ork and w ha t

particulars to n ote for g u ida n ce w he n th e actual hu n t
comme n ces for it is absolutely n ece s sary to have some
preliminar y k no wl edge o f the grou nd a n d habits o f the ,

partic u lar tiger to e nsure success

, I n my earlier spo r t .

i ng days I al ways w e n t o u t to make t he preli mi n ary

exploration for tigers myself ; an d this is the o nly wa y
2 80 T HE HIGH LAND S OF C EN T R AL INDIA .

to learn th e business thorou ghly so as to be able after

, .

w ar d s t o d evolve the labour o n your shik a ri s A s p orts .

m a n who is not thoroughly master o f this business will

never have a reliabl e shik a ri ; an d the best men are
those w ho have been trained u p in it al o ng w ith thei r
masters .

The morning is the best time fo r this w ork I t is .

then cool a n d every footpri n t o f th e previous night is

,

shar p a nd clear A ll th e w ild a n imals from w hose

.
,

movements much is to be learnt are then o n the move

, .

The moveme nts o f the tiger even m a y often be traced

’
u p t o eight o r ni n e o clock by the voices o f mo nkeys an d
peafo w l the chatter o f cro ws a n d smal l birds and the
, ,

bark o f s a mbar and spotted deer The w hole nocturnal

.

life o f the b easts o f t he forest is th e n displayed in t he

clearest man n er to the hunter w hose eye has been
trai ne d to rea d th e book o f n ature a n d I k n o w nothi n g
more i nteresting than a ramble in the cool gray o f a
sum mer mor ning alo n g the stream - beds o f a tract in
w h i ch liv e a great variety of w ild a n imals The river .

b e d s u sually co n tai n large stretches o f sand and grave l ,

w ith here a n d there a p ool o f w ater the ma r gi n of w hich

,

w ill be cove r ed w ith tracks of deer w ild hogs bears , , ,

etc a nd here a n d there th e mighty foot p rints o f t he

.
,

j u ngl e ki ng himself A l l must come here t o dri nk i n

.

the cool n ight succee d i n g a b u rn i n g day ; and i n the

neighb ourhood o f the w ater occur mos t o f the tragical
intervie w s bet w een th e herbivora an d their carnivorou s
foes E very w here the cruel tyra nny of the tiger has
.

impri nted itself o n the faithful p age H is t r ack t o the

.

w ate r is straight a n d leisurely w hile that o f th e n i lg a i

’

o r spotted deer is halti n g and suspicious a n d apt to e nd ,

i n a w ild scurry to right a n d left w h ere i t crosses the

2 82 T HE HIGHLAND S OF CEN T R AL INDIA .

movi ng not far ahead o f him a nd he may the n by ,

c u tti n g him off eve n obtain a shot .

O n o n e occasio n I fol l o w ed a tiger in the early

morn i n g for s everal miles u p the be d of a stream ,

e n tirely by the de mo n strations o f th e large H an u m a n

m o nk ey fi of w hich there w ere n u mbers o n th e ba nks

<

feedi ng o n w ild fruits A s the tige r passed b elo w the m .

th e mo nkeys fled t o the nearest t rees and c li mbi n g t o , ,

t h e highest b ra n ches shook t he m viole n tly a nd poured ,

’
fo r th a to r re n t of abuse r tha t could b e heard a mile
a w ay E ach group o f them co nti n u ed to s w ear at him
.

till he pass ed o u t o f sight a n d th ey s a w th eir friends ,

further o n take up the chorus i n the t ops of their trees ,

w he n they c a lmly came do wn again an d b ega n t o st u ff

t heir cheeks full o f b erries as if n ot hi n g had happe n e d .

The river took a lo n g s w ee p a littl e fu r ther o n a nd by ,

c u tti ng across th e n eck I manage d to arrive very m uch

o u t of breath i n fro n t of th e tiger a n d crouched behi n d ,

the thi ck tr u nk o f a K m a rt tree till h e should come up .

H e came o n i n a lo n g slouc hi n g w alk w ith his tail ,

tu cked do wn a n d l ooki ng exactly like th e gu ilty mi d

,

n ight mu r derer he is H is misdeeds evide n tly sat heavily

.

o n his co n sci e n ce for as h e w e nt h e l ooke d fearfully

,

b ehi n d h im a n d up at the monkeys in a beseechi ng sort

,

o f wa as if asking them n o t t o b etray w here h e w a s

y ,

goi n g H e w a s travelling un d er the o p posite ba n k t o

.

w here I w a s i n the deep shado w o f th e overha n gi ng

,

t r ees ; b ut w he n n early opposite m e he came o u t i n to

, ,

the m iddle in the fai n t y ello w light o f the j ust risen sun
, ,

a nd the n h e looked such a pictur e o f fearful beauty

P r es by t i s ent el l u s .

The v ice f the

f o o mo nkeys such o ccasi o n s is quite d iffe e n t
0 11 r
f m thei d i n a y y
ro r or r cr . I t is a h a se b a ki ng r o a s m ething like
o r r r o
that f the tige
o r .
 T HE T IG E R . 2 83

w ith his velvety step a n d u ndula t i n g m oveme n ts the ,

fi r m muscles w o r ki ng through his loose glossy ski n a n d ,

the c r uel yello w eyes bli nki ng i n the s u n o ve r a r o w o f

i vory teeth as h e licked his lips a nd w hiske r s after his
,
’
n ight s feed H e passed w ithi n a b ou t t we n ty yards o f
.

me maki n g for a small ravi ne that he r e j oi n ed the rive r

,

from the hills I let him get to the mouth of this

.

b efore I fi r ed ; a n d o n receivi n g t he sh o t he b ou n ded ,

for wa r d i nto its cover — a ve r y di ffere nt picture fr o m th e

placid creatu r e I had j u st been looki n g at a nd w ith a ,

roa r that sile n ced the chatteri n g of eve r y mo n key o n the

t rees . I k n e w h e w a s hi t to death b ut w aite d till the
,

shik a ri s came up b efo r e p r oceedi n g t o see a nd w e then

’

w e n t r ou n d a good w a y to w he r e a hig h b a n k overl o oked

t he r avi n e i n w hic h h e had disappea r ed H er e w e .

cautiously peeped ove r a n d seei n g n othi ng came further

, , ,

d o wn to w a r ds the river a n d w ithi n fif t y yards of w here

,

I h ad fi r ed at him I s a w a solitary cro w sitti ng i n a tree ,

a n d ca w i n g do w n at a n i ndisti n c t yello w o bj ect exte n ded

b elo w I t seemed like the tiger a nd sitti n g d o wn I

.
,

fired an other shot at it but it n ever stirred to the thud

o f th e ball w hile the cro w after flyi n g up a fe w feet
, , ,

perched agai n a nd caw ed a w ay more lus t ily tha n before .

We n o w w e n t do wn a n d fo u n d the tiger lyi ng sto n e

,

d ea d shot ve r y n ear the h ea r t

,
.

I thi n k it i s t he pra nks o f j uve nile tige rs rather ,

tha n the seriou s e n mi t y o f o l d o n es that caus e such a ,

t error o f them to exist amo ng the m o nkey commu n ity .

The n atives say that th e tigress teaches her c u b s t o

stalk a nd hu n t b y practisi n g o n mo n keys a n d peafo wl .

The go rg eous plum a ge o f the latte r scatte r ed a b out in ,

a th ousa n d radia n t fr agme n ts often ma r ks th e spot

,

w here a peacock has thus falle n victim to these ready

2 84 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

learners but the remains o f a monkey are sel d om o r

,

never see n .I n deed these sagaciou s S imia n s rarely

,

venture t o come d o wn to the grou n d w he n you ng tigers

are about though this sig n is n o t al w ays to be relied o n
,

as d e n oting the abse n ce o f tigers I th ought so for .

a lo ng time till o ne day in th e B e t u l cou n try after

, ,

hunti ng lo n g in th e h eat o f a May day for a cou p le o f

tigers w h ose marks w e r e ple ntiful all about w e cam e u p ,

to a small pool o f w ater at the h ead o f a ravi n e a nd ,

s a w th e last cha n ce o f fi n ding the m va n ish as I t ho u ht

g , ,

w he n a troop of mo n keys w ere fou n d quietly sitti n g o n

th e rocks a n d d r i nki n g at the w ater I wa s carelessly.

descendi ng to look for pri n ts w ith my ri fl e re versed

,

over my shoul der a n d a n other step o r t w o w ould have

,

brought m e t o the bottom o f the ravi n e w he n t he ,

mo nkeys scur r ied w ith a shriek up the ba nk a nd the ,

head an d sh oulders o f a larg e tiger appeared fr o m behind

a b o u l de r a n d stared at m e across the shor t i nterval I
, .

w a s m editati n g w hether to fire o r retreat w hen almost ,

fro m b elo w my feet the other tiger bou n ded o u t w ith a

te r rific roar a nd they both made o ff do w n the ravi n e
, .

I wa s too mu ch asto n ished to obtai n a steady shot a nd ,

I w a s b y that time t oo w ell acquai nted wit h tiger

shooti n g t o risk a n u n certai n o ne s o they escaped fo r
,

the time I quickly regai n ed m y elepha n t w hich w a s

.
,

sta n di n g abov e a nd follo w ed them up I t wa s ex

,
.

c ee d in l
g y hot and w,e h ad n ot go n e more than a couple

o f hu n dred a r ds w he n I s a w o n e o f the tigers crouched

y
u n der a bush o n th e bank o f the ravi n e I g o t a steady .

shot fr om the ho wd ah and fire d a three - ,

ou n ce shell
at his broad forehead at abou t thirty yards N o resul t . .

I t w a s m ost curious a nd I paused to look ; b ut n ever a

,

motio n of t he tiger ack n o w le dge d the shot I then .

2 86 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

m e r ely etreati ng a fe w steps a n d shaki ng her head at

r

th e co n to r tio n s of the tiger There is n o more striki ng

.

i ncide nt in tige r shooti ng tha n to w it ness th e fea r fu l a nd

impote n t r a g e of a tiger w ith a br o ken back H e .

ca n n ot r each beyo n d a short ci r cl e but w i t hi n that ,

limit sto nes t r ees a n d the very eart h a r e sei z ed a n d

, ,

w o r ried w ith fearful savageness a n d th e w retched brute ,

w ill h o r r ibly ma n gle eve n his o w n lim b s I t is to o .

ghastly t o look o n lo n g a n d though th e ago ny is that,

of a mo nster w ho has cau se d s o mu ch himself a ,

me r ciful b ullet in th e head should quickly e nd the

ho r rid sce n e .

These w e r e regular cattle -eati ng tige r s a nd pe r ha ps ,

had n o t b ee n molesti ng the mo n keys O n a n other .

o ccasio n ho w eve r
,
I w a s much struck w ith t he cautio n
,

o f th e mo n keys u nder very tryi ng circumsta n ces I .

had t r acke d a m a n-eat in g tigress i nto a deep ravi n e

n ea r the village o f Pa l 1 i n th e S eo ni district S he
' ' ’

. .

w a s n o t quite a co n firme d m a n - eate r but had kille d ,

n i n e o r t e n p ersons i n the precedi ng fe w mo nths S he .

had a cu b of about six m o nths o l d w ith her a n d it ,

w a s w he n this cub w a s very you n g a n d u n able t o m o v e

a b out th at w a nt of other game had drive n her to kill
her first hu m a n prey I k n e w w h en I e n tered th e
.

r avi n e that this w a s he r regul ar hau n t ; fo r though ,

every b u sh outside h ad bee n strip p ed of its b erries

b y a col o ny o f mo nkeys I s a w them perched on the
,

rocks a b ove the ravine w istfully looking do wn on the

b u shes at th e bottom w hich ha d stre w ed the ground
,

w ith th ei r ripe n ed fruit They accom p anied me along

.

th e r a vi n e o n th e top o f t he rocks as if perfectly ,

k no wi ng the value o f their assista n ce i n getti ng th e

tigress — a nd b etter markers I n ever had I shoul d .
 T HE T IGE R . 28 7

probably have passed out at t he top w ithout seei ng he r ,

as she w a s lyi ng close u nder a shelvi ng ba nk b ut fo r ,

the pr o fa n e language of a n a n cie n t g ray -b ea r ded

H a nu m a n who posted himself right abov e her a nd
, ,

s w o r e aw ay u ntil he fai rly tur n ed he r o u t of her c o m

fo r t a bl e berth . The exciteme nt of the mo nkeys soo n
told me sh e w a s o n the move ; and p r ese ntly I s a w he r
round face looki n g at me fr om b ehi n d a tree w ith
a forked t r u nk through the cleft of w hich I caught
,

sight o f ab out a square foot of her striped hi de I t .

seemed about the r ight place so co v e r i ng it c a r efull v

,

I put in a shell at about fo r t y yards a n d she collapsed ,

the r e a n d the n fo r mi ng a beautifu l sp r ead -

,
eagle i n
the bottom of th e mil d The you ngster n o w started out
.
,

roari n g as if h e w ere the biggest tiger i n the c o u ntry ;

a n d though I fi r ed a couple of s n ap shots at hi m as he
,

gallope d thro u gh some thick bushes I could n o t s t Op ,

him I t i s imp o rta n t to exti nguish a brute ho w eve r

.
,

you ng w ho has o n ce tasted huma n flesh ; a n d I

,

follo w e d him up till it gre w n early da rk w he n I ,

retur n ed to the r avi ne to take home t he tig r ess a nd ,

the r e I fou n d my mo nkey fr ie nds tucki ng i nt o the

berr ies i n all directio n s a n d hoppi ng about close to the
,

body o f the dead tigress T he cub w a s met m u ch

. ,

exhausted w ith its r u n by a gang of w ood -

,
cutters and ,

killed w ith their axes .

The b arki ng of deer a nd the alarmed c ry of peafo wl

, ,

also frequently i n dicate th e moveme nts of a tiger .

The s a mbar the spotted deer the barki n g dee r a n d

, , ,

th e littl e four-horn ed a ntelope all b ar k viole ntly a t

”
,

a tiger su d de n ly appea r i n g i n the daytime O n ce .

h avi n g marche d n ea r ly a thousa n d miles explori n g i n

th e forests almost w ithout fi ri n g a sh ot I halte d to hu nt,

2 88 T H E HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL I NDIA .

a very large cattle - eating tiger near Cha nd v él in the

N i m a r district This animal w a s b elieved by the c o w
.

herds to have kille d more than a thou san d head o f

cattle and o n e o f the best gra z i ng grounds in a ll that
cou ntry ha d b een quite abando n ed by the m in con
seque n ce H is hau n ts lay in a net w ork o f ravines that
.

l ead d o w n to th e N arbad a river— n o w i n clude d in the

’

P e na s a R eserved Fores t w hich I w a s the n explori n g

,
.

The h er d s o f cattl e havi ng b een w ithdraw n from t he

grassy glades o n the ba nks of the N arbad a wh ere h e
usu al l y preyed on them he had lately b ee n coming o u t
,

i nto the ope n cou n try a n d had b een h ear d for several
,

n ights roami n g rou n d about th e village o f Cha n d v é l o n

th e e dge o f th e forest I fou n d his tracks w ithin a

.

hu n dred yards o f th e buffal o p ens o f the village th e

mo r n i n g I ar r ived ; an d a few n ights b efore he ha d
b r oken into a Banj a r a e m ca m p m e nt a littl e w a y o ff and ,

killed and d ragged a w ay a heifer w hich h e ate w ithin

,

heari n g dista n ce o f the e n ca m p ment charging through ,

the d ark n ess a n d d rivi ng back the Ba nj a r a s an d their '

dogs whe n they trie d t o i n terrupt him I picketed a j uicy .

you ng b uffalo for him the night I arrive d about half ,

a m ile from th e village w here his tracks sho w e d h e

regularly passed at night N ext morning it w a s fou n d
.

to have been killed a n d d ragge d a w ay abou t a hun d re d

yar d s t o a small dry w aterco u rs e ; and after h avi ng ,

bee n cleaned as scientifi cally as a ny b utcher could have

do n e it eaten u p all bu t the head skin feet a n d o ne
, , , ,

r -
fo e qu arter I f his footpri n ts had not already sh o w n
.

him to be an u n usually large tiger this feat o f g e rman

,

disi ng w ou l d have su fficiently done so We starte d .

abou t ten o clock o n his trail I t w a s the 1 2 th o f

’
.

A pril and a hotter day I never remember

, L ong before .
290 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T R AL INDIA .

precipitous bank w here I coul d h ar d ly thi nk a goat

,

w ould have fou n d footi n g H e w a s about a h undre d

.

a n d fift y yards fro m my rifle a n d the first bullet o n ly

k nocked some earth fro m the b a nk belo w him When .

I fired the other he w a s j ust toppi n g the ba nk an d ,

clu n g for a seco n d as if h e w ould have come over b ack

w ards b ut by a n effort recovere d himself a n d di s a p
,

p ea r e d over th e top R un n i ng to a highe r piece o f

.

grou n d I s a w him trotti ng s ulle nly across the bur n t

plai n a nd loomi ng as large t o the eye as a b ull buffal o
,
.

H e certai nly looked a very mighty beast but he w a s a

crave n at heart or he w ould never h ave left su ch a
,

stronghold to face th e fearful w aterless bur nt - u

p
,

cou ntry he did I lost n o time i n getti ng rou n d t he

.

h ead of the ravine an d givi ng chase on the elephan t .

H is tracks in the ashes of the bur nt gr ass w ere clear

e n ough a n d w e follo w ed hi m for ab out t w o miles
, ,

sighti ng him o n ahead every n o w a n d the n till h e dis ,

appeared in a little ravi n e a n d we lost the track in i t s

,

bare rocky b ottom I w a s goi ng alo ng the ba nk w it h

.
,

the other elepha n t in th e bottom of the ravi n e w he n I ,

heard th e bark o f a s a mbar to my left o n some hig h

g r ou n d a n d urgi ng F u t t eh Ra ni at her b est pace i n
, ,

that d irectio n shortly cam e o n the tiger slouchi ng

,

ac r oss th e o p en plain — e vide n tly su fferi ng from a

w ou n d w ith his to ng u e ha n gi ng out a n d weari ng
, ,

altogether a most w oe b ego n e look H e made a n effort .

w he n h e s a w m e a n d galloped a hu n dred ya r ds o r so
,

i nto a patch o f bamb oo j u ngle I k n e w fro m the local .

shik a ri that h e w a s maki ng for a w ater - h ole about hal f

a mile ahead a n d cut ac r oss w ith the elepha nt t o i nter
,

cept him I had th e pace o f him n o w a n d g o t clea n

.
,

bet w ee n him a n d his w ate r I never s a w such an air o f

.

disgus t w o r n b y a n y a nimal a s that tiger had w hen h e

 T HE T IGER . 29 1

cam e do wn the hill and s a w the ele pha n t sta nd i ng

right i n fr o nt of him H e said as plai nly as possible
.

,
“
C ome w hat w ill I d on t mean t o r u n a nothe r y a r d ;
,
’

’
a n d it w o n t b e the better fo r a nybody that t r ies to
”
make me . S o he lay do wn behi n d a la r ge A nj a n t r ee ,

sho w i ng nothi n g but one eye a n d a n e a r r o u n d the side

of it I marched u p w ithi n fift y ya r ds a n d n o w s a w
.
,

the s witchi n g end o f a tail added t o the eye a nd e a r I .

could n o t fire at hi m thus a nd the r efore sidled r ou nd,

till I s a w his shoulder H e s a w the o pe n i ng thus left

.
,

a n d eyed it w istfully as if he w ould rathe r escape tha t

,

w a y if he coul d than fi ght it o u t

, ,
Bu t I pla nte d a .

b all i n his shoulde r before he ha d time to make up his

mi nd ; o n w hich he rose w ith a lan guid roar a n d ,

lu mbered s l o wly d o wn the hill at the el e pha nt S o

'

slo wly ! H e actually had n t steam left i n him t o get up

’

a p r oper char ge w he n he t r ied A right a nd left .

stopped him at o n ce and a nother ball i n the e a r s ettled

,

him a n d the n F u t t eh w e n t u p a n d kicked hi m a n d it ,

wa s all over H e w a s a very la r ge tige r meas u r i ng t e n

.
,

feet o n e i n ch i n le ngth as he lay a n d w a s a pe r fec t mou n

,

tain of fat— the fat of a thousa n d ki ne as the c o wherds ,

lugu b riously remarked w he n they came u p H e had a .

perfect ski n clear r e d a nd w hi t e w ith the fi ne dou b le

, ,

st r ipes a n d W mar k o n th e head a nd lo ng w hiske r s , ,

w hich add so greatly to the beauty o f a tige r t r ophy .

The w hole of the pads of his feet w e r e b liste r ed o ff o n

the hot rocks h e had b ee n t r ave r si ng a nd his t o ngue ,

w a s s wo lle n a nd blue Ve w e r e n early dead ou rselves

‘
. x ,

a nd w e n t do wn to the w ate r he had bee n maki ng fo r ,

w hile a m esse nger w e n t to the v illage fo r m o r e m e n

the do z e n lusty cat t le — he r ds a nd my o wn m e n togethe r
b ei ng totally u n a b le to put him o n the pad elepha nt t o
carry home A n ordi na r y tiger w ill w eigh ab o ut fou r
.
2 92 T HE HIGHLANDS OF C E N T RA L INDIA .

hu ndred a n d fifty o r five hundred p ou n d s bu t this ,

beef- fed mo nster mus t h ave tou che d seve n hu ndre d

pounds at least ; an d a tiger from his le n gth and ,

s up p le n ess is a very a w k w ard obj ect t o lift off th e

,

ground .

I have said that t e n feet o n e i n ch is th e le ngth o f a n

u n usually large tiger Th e average le ngth from nose to
.

tip o f tail is o n ly n in e fee t six i n c hes for a full - gro w n

male a n d fo r a tigress about eight feet four i n ches
,
.

The experience o f a ll s p or t smen I have met w ith w hose ,

accuracy I can rely o n is th e sam e ; and it w ill

,

certai n ly b e fou nd w hen m uch g r eater measurements

,

tha n this a r e r ecorded that they h ave eith er b een taken

,

from stretched skins o r else in a very careless fashion .

The ski n o f a t e n- feet tiger w ill easily stretch t o thirtee n

o r fourtee n feet if required
, a nd if n atives are allo w e d

t o us e the tap e they are certai n to thro w in a foot o r

”
t wo to p lease master Master also no doubt
.
, ,

sometimes pleas es hi m self in a similar ma n ner A

w ell —
.

k n ow n sportsman and w rite r w h ose recorded ,

measureme nts have done more to exte n d the size o f

the tiger tha n a nythi ng else i n formed me himself that
,

all his measurements w ere take n fr om flat ski n s B ut .

the B r itish p ublic demands t welve -feet tigers j ust as it ,

refuses t o acce p t a n I ndian lan d scape w ithout p al m- trees .

S o a s upp r es s io c er t w e n t forth a n d n o t o n ly that but ,

his pictu r e o f a d ead tiger bei n g carrie d i n to camp w a s

im p roved b y a fe w feet bei ng added to the le ngth o f the
beast w hile to make room for it the most o f the
, , ,

beare r s w ere w iped o u t leavi ng a bout four m en o nly t o

,

carry a tiger at least fift ee n feet l o ng

S porti n g stories are apt to bree d each other i n ci d ent ,

l eadi ng o n to i n cide n t so that I find I have alrea d y

,

kil led som e five o r six tigers w hile yet o n ly o n t he

2 94 T H E HIGHLANDS OF C E N T RAL I NDIA .

goo d H i nd u s w ill not s ell cattle avo w edly to be tied u p

,

fo r tige r s ; n o r w ill your H i n d u shik a ri s tie them u p

w ith their o w n ha n ds though few w ill o bj ect to su p er
,

i nte n d the operatio n The fl im s ies t disguise is ho w ever

.
, ,

su ffi cie n t t o quiet the co n scie n ces of th e cattle m e n w ho ,

w ill sell a herd o f you ng b u ffaloes i n ope n market t o

your Ma ho m e da n shik a ri dressed u p as a t r a d er i n ki ne ,

though they may have kno wn him for a bloody - mi n de d

b aite r for tigers all their lives I remember b ei n g very
.

hard up for a bait o n ce in the N im a r dist r ict havi n g ,

come to a place w here tigers w ere very destructi v e w hen

I had no ne of my o wn A ll I could say w ould n o t i n d u ce
.

the Ca e lis (c o w -keepers ) of the place to s el l m e a si ngle

h ead d u r i ng the d a y -ti me the o w n er o f the village
,

b eing a Bagh e l Raj p u t a cla n w hich claims desce n t from

,

a royal tiger and p r otects the species w h e n ever they c a n

, .

I wa s sta n di ng outside my tent in the eve n i ng w hen the ,

v illage cattl e w ere bei ng drive n i n havi n g give n up all

,

idea o f halti n g for t he tigers another day w he n a fine ,

tall young G aol i stepped u p w ith a salaam a nd sai d ,

“
S ahib I have lost a v ery fi n e you ng buffalo in the
,

j u ngle and it w ill very p r obably be s n apped up by th e

,

tigers but if y o u w ould se n d s ome o n e alo n g that road

pe r haps he might find it a nd w e w ill be pleased if your
,

H igh n ess will keep it as y o u are goi ng a w ay fro m this

,

to -morro w .
”
H e gri nn e d a broad gri n as he finished ,

a nd I spotted his ga m e so s e ndi ng alo n g the La ll a ”

a b out a quarter of a m ile w e fou n d a very su fficient

you n g w all — eyed b uffalo tied by a piece o f stra w r ope t o
a little tree We had barely time to get the little brute
put out in a proper place before n ightfall ; b ut he w a s
duly take n a nd w e shot a fine tigress a n d w ou n ded and
, ,

lost a tiger the next day l

,

The mo r n i ng after the baits have bee n tied o u t a

 T H E T IGE R . 295

hik a r i s h oul d go to see the result u ntyi ng a n d b ri ng

'

s ,

i ng in those that h ave not bee n take n a n d follo wi ng ,

up the tracks fr om a ny that have s o fa r as to asce r tai n ,

fully w he r ea b outs the tiger is likely to b e fou nd late r i n

th e day I have mentio ned above the
. La ll a a n d “
,
”

that b r ings m e t o the subj ect o f s ki/ea r ls A r eally .

fi rs t -
class tige r shik a ri is extremely r ar e The co mb i
’

. .

n atio n o f qualities requi r ed to make hi m is seldom

fo und in a n ative I shall b est explai n w hat h e should

.

be by describi n g the L a ne A n d fi r st as to his n ame

. .

Lal la mea ns in uppe r I ndia a clerk of the Kayat caste ,

to w hich our frie n d belo nged ; so that though utte r ly

ign oran t of all lette r s save those impri nted o n a sa n dy
ravi n e - ’
bed by a tiger s p a w he w a s n ick n amed the ,

Lane by the people a nd thereupo n his real n ame

,
,

d isappeared for ever ; a n d w he n h e w a s after w ards

,

kille d b y a tiger n o o n e had a ny idea w hat it w a s

, .

H e wa s a little w e e m a n so i n sig nifica nt a nd so dried

, ,

a n d shrivelled up that as he used to say

,
N o tiger ,

w o u ld ever thi nk of eati ng me H is early days had .

”

bee n passed in catchi ng a n d t r ai ni ng falco n s fo r the

n obles of upp er I n dia a nd i n shooti ng bi r ds fo r sale i n
,

the market H e had come do w n to C e ntr al I ndia t o

.

make a b ag of b lue rollers a nd king fi s hers w hose ,

feathe r s are so much valued in the cou ntries to the

east fo r fa ncy wo rk w hen he w a s caugh t n o b ody k n o ws
, ,

h o w by a ge ntlema n w ith a taste for bi d stuffi ng

r -
, ,

fr om w hom h e passed i n to the possessio n of a spo r tsman

w ho put hi m o n tigers a n d eve n t u ally he came to me
,

w ith a littl e experie n ce of the b u si n ess H is early .

trai ni n g had made him exceedi ngly kee n of eyesight ,

a n d i n readi ng th e sig n s of the forest ; w hile i n his

m a ny w an deri ngs he had accumulated a sto r e of lege nds
o f demo n s a nd d evilry a nd a w ild j umble of H i nd u
,
296 T H E HIGHLANDS OF C E N T RAL INDIA .

mythology that never faile d w hen retailed over a

, ,

fire at n ight to a circle o f ga p i n g co w herds a nd villag e

shik a ri s to u n lock every secret o f th e neighbourhoo d
,

in the m atter o f tigers S u ch an oily coze n er o f retice n t

.

G o n d s never existed The n miserable as h e l ooke d

.
, ,

h e coul d w alk about a ll d a y a n d every day fo r a w eek

in a broilin g sun hu nti n g u p tracks w ith nothi ng
, ,

bu t th e thi nn est o f musli n skull — ca p s o n his har d nut o f

a head a n d w oul d fearlessly pe n etrat e i nto th e very
,

lair o f a tiger perfectly u narm e d H e ha d a p articula r

.

beaming look which he al w ays w ore o n his ugly face

“
w he n h e had actually seen o r a s h e said , salaame d ,

to a tiger comfortably dispos ed o f fo r th e d ay a nd in

late years w hen I ha d to l eave a ll the arra n gements to
,

him I hardly recollect ever goi n g o u t w he n he reporte d

,

the fi nd a likely o ne w ithout at l east seei n g the game .

H e could shoot a little say a p ot shot at a bir d o n

,

a bran ch at t w e n ty p aces and ke p t gu n s etc in

, , .
,

beautiful or d er B u t h e s oo n came to utterly despise

.

and contemn everythi n g except tiger - hu n t i ng fo r w hich ,

he ha d I believe really an absorbing p assion E ven

, , .

b iso n- hunting h e looked do w n o n as sport n o t fit for a

gentleman t o p ursue F o r ten months i n the year
.

he moped abou t looki ng ut t erly w retche d and taking ,

no i nterest in a ny thi n g but t he elephan ts and rifles ;

and w oke u p again o n ly o n the first o f A pril— o p posite
w hich d ate Tiger -
shooti ng commences w ill be entered
in the I ndian almanack o f th e future w hen the royal ,

a nimal sh all be p reserve d in the R eserved Forests o f

C e n t r al I n dia t o furn ish s p ort for the n obility o f the
la nd !
Poor o ld La ll a ! H e fell a v ictim in the end to
contempt o f tigers bred o f u ndu e familiarity I w a s
, .

v ery ill w ith fever a n d m editati n g a trip h ome a nd

, ,
2 98 T H E HIGHLANDS OF C E N T RAL I NDIA .

and then I k n e w I w a s near th e sav a ge b r u te We r a n .

i t u p to a d e n s e j a man cover i n the rive r - bed a n d ,

I ha d ba r ely time to get the peopl e o n foot safely

up trees w he n the tigress came at me in the m ost
d eter m i n ed m a nn er S he looked j ust like a huge cat
.

that h ad been hu n ted by dogs — h er f ur a ll be d raggle d

a nd stan d i n g o n en d eyes glari ng w ith fu r y a nd
, ,

e mitti ng the hoarse co u ghi n g roar o f a cha r gi n g tiger

th at n o o n e t o the very close of his tiger -shooti ng h ear s

, ,

w ithout a ce r tai n quickeni n g o f the blood . The firs t

t w o shots hi t fair bu t did n o t stop h er ; an d she
,
’
w a s n o t m ore tha n a fe w ya r ds fr o m the ele p ha n t s
t r u nk w hen the third ball caught her clea n i n th e
m outh k n ocki n g o u t o n e o f her ca n i n e teeth a n d
,

p assi n g do wn the throat i nto th e chest S he could .

d o n o more b ut lay roaring a n d w orrying her o w n

,

pa w s till I p ut an en d to her w ith a n other shot in the

head S he w a s a l ean greyhou n d -
.
,
m ade brute sca r cely
,

bigger than a pan ther Th e L at in w a s ave nge d ; b ut

.

the poor fello w w a s beyond any help that the sight o f

his e n emy might have a fforded him ; a n d n o t wit h
sta ndi ng every care— fo r he w a s the fav ourite o f every
body w ho k n e w him — he san k under th e exhausting
d rai n o f s o many fearful w ounds .

V ery di ffere n t fr om the o l d La ll a is th e u su al p attern

o f tiger shik a ri H e w ill probably be a tall s w aggeri ng
’

Ma ho m e d a n brushi n g o u t his w hisk e rs t o the like n ess

,
’
o f a tiger s a nd
,
to add ferocity o f expressi o n dyeing
, ,

t hem w he n y ou n g a steely bl ue a n d w he n ol d a rusty

red ; clad i n e lab orate j u ngle -c o lou r ed raime n t and ,

h u ng w ith belts a n d p ouches o f s a mbar leather support

in g a pe r fect armou ry o f cu t - throat w eapo n s w hich h e
ha s n o t the fai n tes t idea o f usi ng ; b r aggi n g sky high
o f his o w n a n d his master s doughty exploits ; i n su ffer
’
 T HE T IGER . 2 90

able to th e people a nd la z y as a pampe red lap -do with

,
or
O 7

j ust e n o ugh k n o w ledge o f his wo r k gai n ed i n his e a rly

,

d ays by car r yi n g the w ater - bottle o f some real sp o r ts

m a n to co n coct a plausible but utte r ly ficti t i o us sto r y
,

a t every place h e comes to and co n victed at e ve r y tur n

o f lyi n g steali n g
,
a nd every deadly s i n
, yet possi b ly
t he admiratio n of a gullible maste r o n w hom a po r ti o n
,

of the glory o f his whiske r s a nd tall talk is r eflecte d as he ,

s t r uts a b out h is house in ca nto n me n ts i n full w a r -pai nt ,

s n appi n g the locks o f his b ra nd -n e w sixty -gui n ea r ifles .

H o w the tiger marked do wn in the mo rni n g is to b e

h u n ted a nd kille d at midday whe n all life i n the fo r est
,

is still be n eath the scorchi ng heat o f the s u n a nd the ,

b r ute himself is leas t on his guard a nd most u n willi ng

t o move w ill have bee n see n fr o m previous descripti o n s
, .

To r ead t he hu nti n g of o ne tiger is like that o f every

’
o t her ; b u t a diffe r e n t set of i n cide n ts marks each day s

s p or t i n t he mem o r y o f the h u n te r w ho pictu r es

,

v ividly the deat h of each lo n g aft e r the i n cide nts of

his spo r t w ith e very o t her sort of ga m e h ave faded a way .

The m ai n features are the careful prelimi nary a r r a nge

me nts the se t tli n g the di r ectio n of approach s o as to c u t
,

o ff all roads of escap e to i naccessi ble fast n esses t he ,

p o sti ng o f scouts to n otify the possible r etreat o f

t he tige r a nd the cautious silent app r oach the exci t e
, , ,

m e nt gat he r i n g as t he i nn erm o st r ecess o f the cover ,

w here t he b rute is expected to lie is approached b y the

,

w n o derfully i n tellige n t a n d half-huma n elepha nt .

A stran ge affection spri ngs up b et wee n the hu nter

a n d his w ell — t r ie d ally in the chase of th e tiger a nd a
creature seemi n g to those w ho see him o nly in the
m e n agerie or labou r i ng u nde r a load of baggage but a
, ,

l u mbe r i n g mass o f flesh becomes to him alm o st a seco n d

,

s elf y ieldi ng to his service the pe r fection of physical

,
30 0 T HE HIGHLANDS OF C EN T R AL INDIA .

an d m ental qualities o f w hich a brute is capable and ,

d is p layi ng a n i n telligent interest in his sport o f w hich

no brute could b e thought t o b e possessed N o o n e .

who has not w it nessed it w ould believe the astonishin g

cautio n w ith w hich a w ell -trai n ed el e p hant app r oaches a
tiger removi n g w ith noiseless adroit n ess every obstacle
,

o f fall e n timber etc an d passi n g his huge b ulk ove r

, .
,

rustli ng leaves o r rolli ng sto n es o r qu aki ng b og w it h

, , ,

an absolute a nd m arvellous silence ha ndi ng up sto n es ,

w he n ordered for his master t o fli n g i nto th e cover ;

,

smelli ng out a col d sce n t as a spa n iel roads a pheasan t ;

a n d at last p erhaps p oi n ting dead w ith se n sitive trunk
, ,

at the hidden monster o r sho wi ng w ith short n ervou s

,

raps of that orga n o n the grou n d that he is some where

n ea r though not actually disco vere d to th e se n ses o f the
,

ele p ha n t The n the u ns w ervi n g steadi ness w he n he s ees

.

the e n emy b e n aturally dreads a n d w oul d fle e fro m ,

panic -st r icke n in his n ative hau nts p erhap s chargi n g ,

h eadlo ng at his head trusti n g all t o the skill of his

,

rid er a n d thoughtless o f usi ng his o wn t r eme n dou s

,

stre ngth i n the encou n ter— for a goo d elepha n t n eve r

attempts t o com b at the tiger himself To do so w ould .

ge n erally be fatal to the s p ort a n d p erhap s to th e ,

spor t sma n too ; for n o o n e could stick to a n elepha n t

e n gaged in a perso n al struggle w ith a tiger far less use ,
’
his g u n under such circumsta n ces Th e el eph a nt s .

b usiness is to stand like a rock in every eve n t eve n ,

w he n the tiger is faste n ed o n his head — as ma ny a good

o n e w ill d o a n d has do n e .

I t is n o t o n e elepha n t i n a th ousan d that is s o

thoroughly good in tiger - shooti ng as t his ; a n d such as
are c o mma nd very high prices in the mar ket Fro m .

£ 2 0 0 to £ 4 0 0 is n o w the value o f a tho r oughly fi r s t -

rat e
shooti ng e lepha n t though m uch sport may b e had w ith
,
30 2 T HE HIGHLAND S OF C EN TR AL IND IA .

w ell as o n th e m an agement o f ele p ha n ts w hich w oul d ,

scarce l y i nterest the ge neral reader E leph a n ts differ .

”
as w idely i n their poi n ts as d o horses a nd it is ve r y
di ffi cul t for a n u n edu cated eye to disti nguish these ,

par ticularly in th e fatte n ed - u

p co n diti o n the a nimals

g e n e r ally car r y at th e fair Furth

. erm o re a n d fo r t u ,
’
n a t e l y e n o ugh fo r u s a n ative s id ea of go o d poi n ts in
,

a n elepha n t (as i n a h orse

) differs i n t o t o fr om ou rs .

H e looks n o t at all t o shape o r goo d actio n o r likeli

, ,

hood of sta n di ng hard w ork ; bu t fi rst o f all to the

prese n ce or ab se n ce o f certai n acci d e ntal mar ks — such
as the n u mbe r o f toe - n ails o n t he fo o t w hich may b e ,

five or six but n o t four ; the tail w hich m u st b e perfect

,

a n d w ith a full tuft ; and th e colou r of the palate ,

w hich m ust b e red w ith out spot of black S om e o f th e .

best el epha n ts I h ave k no w n failed i n e a ch a n d all of ‘

these poi n ts The n a femal e or tuskless m al e is o f

.

small valu e to a n ative w ho w an ts b ig w hite tusks

, .

A ro u gh high a ctio n a n d a trunk a n d forehead o f very

,

light col our are greatly in requ est by th e n ative buyer

, ,

w ho looks e n tirely t o s h o w a n d cove r s up eve r y par t

,

o f the a n imal except the face w ith a n e n o rmo u s parti

coloured cloth We o n th e oth er ha n d dislike the h ig h

.
, ,

ro u gh acti o n a n d n ever by a ny cha n ce purchase a

,

tuske r w ho is n early certai n to b e ill -tempe r ed We

,
.

lo o k for a small w ell -b red -looki ng head a n d tru nk and ,

a clea r co nfide n t eye d evoid of piggish express i on fast ,

easy paces straight back and croup w ide loi ns a nd

, , ,

- —
ge e ally w ell developed bo n e a n d muscle a g r eat t est
n r

o f w hich is th e girth o f the forearm w hich should ,

m e a su r e a b o ut three feet eight i n ches i n a n ele p ha n t

n i n e feet h igh A v e r y tall el epha n t is seldo m a good
.

w o rki ng o n e a n d ge n e r ally has sl o w r ough paces ; s o

,

that i n a m a l e n i n e fee t o r a femal e eigh t feet fou r

,
 T HE T IGER .

inches at the shoulde r should n o t b e exceeded A

, .

smaller a n imal tha n eight feet t wo i nches w il l be u nde r

-
sized for tiger shooti n g purposes A femal e m a kes t he .

b est hu nti n g elephan t w he n she is r e a lly s tau nch wi t h

game as her paces a nd temper are ge ne r ally b ette r a nd
,
,

she is n o t su bj ect to the danger of b ecomi ng must ”

and u n co ntrollable as male elepha nts do pe r i o dic a lly

,

after a certai n age Bu t females a r e mo r e u nce r tai n

.

as t o courage tha n males ; a nd it is a risk to b uy the

forme r u n t r ied for shootin g purposes M o st m u kn a s .

( tuskless males ) c an I b elieve

, be relied o n to b
,
ecome
stau n ch w ith tigers w he n properly trained a n d e nte r ed
a nd, for my o wn part if b uyi ng an e ntirely u ntried
,

”
elephan t I w ould al ways select a mukua
, They are .

ge n e r ally more vigorous and better d eveloped tha n

tuskers though n o t usually s o tall A n o t impro b able
,
.

explan atio n o f this wa s give n me by a w ild i nhabitant

o f the fo r ests to the east o f the sources o f the N a r b ad a ,

w he r e w ild elepha n ts the n existed i n la r ge n um b ers .

H e said he had noticed that the you ng t u ske r s afte r ,

their sharp li t tle tusks bega n to p r ick th e mothe r i n the

p rocess o f sucki ng w e r e driven o ff by her a nd allo wed
,

to shift for th emselves while females a nd m u kna s c o n

,

t in u e d to b e nourished by her u ntil she got a n othe r

you n g o ne .

A fter some trouble I bought the t e n elepha nts I

w anted— eight of them m u k na s a nd t wo females Thei r .

avera ge price w a s £ 1 5 0 the dearest bei ng £ 2 0 0 a nd

, ,

the cheapest £ 1 0 0 The highest p r ice I hea r d of bei n g

.

obtai n ed at the fair w a s £ 8 0 0 for a n o b le tuske r bought ,

for a Raj a in the P u nj a b S o far as I k no w n o n e o f

.
,

them had ever see n a tiger ; but they all b ecame ex

c e ll e n t shik a r i s except o ne large muku a i n w h o m I
’

fou n d I had bee n stuck w ith a regular m a n killi ng -

304 T HE HIGHLA NDS OF CEN T R AL INDIA .

brute H e w a s quite quiet a t the fair h avi ng b ee n

.
,

p robably kept drugge d w ith opiu m ; bu t o n th e march

d o w n to C entral I n dia he broke o u t a n d killed a man ,

and after w ards becam e quite u n controllable H e fetche d .

his full price ho wever for a n ative notable ; for he w a s

, ,

a very han d some a nimal a n d a w ealthy nativ e is rather

,

prou d o f havi n g an ele p ha n t that n o one c a n go n ear ,

chained up at his gate w ay for a n or n ament .

A l l elepha n ts inte n de d to b e u sed in hu nti n g tigers

must be very carefully train ed and e ntered t o their
game A good ma ho u t o r driver is very difficult to
.
, ,

obtai n They di ff er as m uch i n their command o v er

.

elephan ts as do riders o f h orses ; an d a plucky driver

w ill generally make a stau n ch elepha n t a nd vi c e t er ed ,
.

The elephan t shoul d fi r st be accustomed to the firi ng

of gu n s from his ba c k and to seeing deer a nd other
,

harmless a n imals shot before hi m in c om p a n y w ith a

stau n ch com p an ion H e m ust n o t b e forced in at a
.

tige r or at a hog o r bear w hich h e detests eve n more

, , ,

u n til he has acquired so me co nfide n ce though in some ,

few c a s es he w ill sta n d to a ny a n imal fro m th e very first .

Whe n they have see n a fe w tigers neatly dis p osed o f ,

most elephants acquire confide n ce in their human allies ,

a n d become sufficie n tly steady i n the fiel d ; but their

ultimate qualities w ill de p end mu ch o n n atural tempera

ment The more n aturally courageous a n el ephant is
.
,

the better cha nce there is o f his remaining stau n c h after

havi n g b ee n actually maule d by a tiger an accident t o ,

be avoided of cours e as l o ng as p ossible I t w ill occur

, , .

sometimes ho weve r in the b est h ands ; a nd then a

, ,
.

n atu r ally timi d animal w ho has o n ly been made staunch

,

by a lo n g cou r se o f immunity from i nj ury w ill probably ,

be S poilt for life w hil e a really plucky elepha nt is oft en

,

re n dere d bolder t han b efore by s u ch an occ u rrence .

30 6 T HE HIGHLANDS OF C E N T RAL INDI A .

we al w ays ha d s everal G overn ment elephants allo w ed

for the carriage o f baggage a n d riding purposes and , ,

as I al w ays kept o n e o f my o w n besides I could ge n erally

,

muster e n ough to drive effectively any tiger groun d in

C e ntral I n dia But I rarely took out m ore than o n e
.

elephan t besides my o wn w he n shooti ng alo n e fin d i ng ,

that quiet hu n ti ng w a s far more successful tha n th e

bustle o f ma ny ele p han ts and the rabble o f m e n that
u sually accompany a tiger hu n t .

I n the end o f A pril a n d May of 1 8 6 2 I bagged six ,

tigers an d o ne panther in the B et u l j u n gles w ou ndi ng ,

t w o more tigers w hich escaped .I w a s u nable regularly

to devote myself t o tiger - shooti n g havi n g m u ch fores t
,

w ork t o do and my shooti ng w a s also much interfered

,

w ith by accide n tal circumstances A sprai n ed te n do n

.

laid me u p fo r fiftee n days o f th e best w eather (t he

hottest ) and there wa s so much cholera about that
,

many o f the best places had t o remai n u n visited .

A nother p arty w ere also shooti n g i n the same district ;

and though they arrived after me in the fiel d contrary
, ,

to the w ell - understood rule in s u c h circumsta n ces pro ,

c ee d e d ahead a nd disturbed the w hol e cou n try by

i n discriminate firing at deer an d peafo wl I t is scarcely .

n ecessary t o say that when after tigers nothi ng els e

should be fire d at The La ll a came o u t stro ng u n d er
.

these unfavourabl e circumstan ces w orking ah ea d an d

,

securi n g by his plausible to ngu e a m o n opoly o f i nforma

tio n i n w hich he wa s w ell seconde d by th e co n d uct o f
,

our rivals in harassi n g the peopl e in the m atter o f

provisions and thrashi ng them a ll rou n d if a tiger w a s
,

not fou n d for them w he n they arrived On o ne occasion

.

I reached their grou n d j u st as their last camel w a s

movi ng o ff to a n ew camp They had stayed here
.

a week try i ng in vain to extort he l p in findi ng a co u p l e

 T HE T IGER . 30 7

of t igers w h ose tracks they had see n The tige r s w ere

.

all the time w ithi n half a mile of their te nt s a nd b efo re

,
’
ten o clock that day I had them b o th p a dde d D u r i ng .

a w hole mo nth I believe they o nly succeeded i n getti ng

o n e tige r a n d that by potti ng it fr om a t r ee at n igh t
, .

I spe nt n early a w eek of this time in th e des t r uc t i o n

of a famous m a n - eater which had comple t ely c losed
,

several r o ads and w a s estimated t o have dev o ured o ver

,

a hu n d r ed huma n bei ngs On e of these r o a d s w a s the

.

mai n outlet fro m the B et u l teak forests t o wa r ds the

rail w ay the n under co n st r uctio n i n th e N arb a d a valley
and t he w ork of the sleeper - co ntractors w a s completely
at a stan dstill o wi ng to the ravages o f this brute H e .

occupied regularly a large t r iangle o f cou nt r y b et wee n

the rive r s M o ran a n d G a nj a l ; occasionally maki ng a
tou r o f d est r uctio n much further to the east a nd w est ;
and striki ng te r ror i nto a breadth o f not less tha n thirty
to forty miles I t w a s the r efore supposed that the
.

devastatio n w a s caused by m ore tha n o n e a nimal ; a n d

w e thought w e had disposed o f o n e of these ea r ly i n
A p ri l w hen w e killed a very cu nni ng old tige r of evil
,

repute after several d ays seve r e hu n ti n g Bu t I am

’
.

n o w certai n that the br u te I dest r oyed su b seque ntly

wa s the real malefactor even there as killi ng agai n

,

comme n ced after w e had left a n d all l o ss to huma n life

,

did n o t cease till the day I fi nally disposed o f him .

H e had n o t been heard of for a w eek o r t wo w hen

I came i nto his cou n try a n d pitched my c a mp i n
,

a sple n did mango grove ne a r th e large village of

L o ka r t a l a e on the M o ran river
,
.H e r e I w a s agai n laid
u p through over - usi ng my sprai ned te nd o n ; but a
better place in w hich to pass the lo ng hot days of
forced i n activity coul d not have been fou n d The bare .

b ro w n cou nt r y outsi d e w a s e n tirely shut out b y the lo ng

308 T HE HIGH L AND S OF C E NTR A L INDIA .

drooping branches of the huge mango trees i n terl aced ,

overhead in a grateful ca nopy a nd loaded w ith the half

,

ripe fruit p endent o n their lo n g te n dril - like stalks ;

w hile beneath them short glimpses w ere seen o f the
bright clear w aters o f the M o ran steali ng o ver their
p ebbly b ed The green m angoes cooked i n a variety
.
,

o f w ays ,
furnished a grateful and cooli ng additio n t o
th e table ; a nd th e whole grove w a s alive w ith a vast
v a r iety of bird a n d i n sect life in the observation o f
,

w hich m any an hour that w oul d other wise have fl ow n

sl o wly by w a s passe d A colo ny o f th e lively chirp i ng
.

little gr ay- striped squirrel lived i n every tree and fro m ,

mor ni n g to n ight p ermeated the w h ole grove with their

in cessa n t gambols My dogs w oul d have d ied o f e nnu i
.
,

I believe but for the u n remitti n g sport they ha d in

,

stalki n g and chasi ng these u n attai nable creatures w hose ,

fashio n o f letti ng them get w ithin t w o i n ches o f them

w hile they calmly sat u p and ate a falle n ma n go an d ,

then w hiski n g up a n d sitti ng j u st half a foot out o f

reach j erki n g their lo n g tails a n d rapping o u t a long
,

chirp o f d efian ce seemed highly to provoke them

, .

C louds o f little gree n ring - necke d paroqu ets fl e w from

t ree to tree clamberi ng over a n d u n der a n d in every
,

directio n through the branches t o get at th e green

ma n goes A great variety o f bright -
. coloure d bulbuls ,

sev e ral species o f woo d pecker a n d the gol d en oriole o r

,

ma n go -bi r d flashed about in th e h igher foliage w hile

, ,

n cessa n t h u m told of the u n see n prese n ce o f multi

’
I
ll l

tudes o f the i nsect w orld .

I w a s much amu se d by the result of my te n t b eing

pitched bet w een t wo trees inhabited res p ectively by
colo n ies o f th e commo n black an d red a nts so plentiful ,

i n all w ooded parts o f t he provi n ce E ach side sent

.

d etachme n ts do w n th e rop es o f the te n t attache d to

31 0 T H E HIGHLANDS OF C E NT RAL IN D IA .

p ost that the m a n- eater ha d again appeared a nd ha d ,

killed a m a n a nd a boy o n the high road ab out ten

m iles from my cam p I coul d sta n d it no longer
, I .

had been douchi n g my leg w ith col d w ater but no w ,

resorted t o stro nger measures givi n g it a coati n g o f

,

James s hors e -
’
blister w hich caused o f course severe
,

p ai n fo r a fe w d ays but at the end o f them resulted

, ,

t o m y great delight in a com p lete a nd perma ne nt cure

,
.

I n t he mean time while I wa s still r a w and s ore I w a s

, ,

regale d w ith stories of the m an - eater— o f his fearful

si z e a nd appearance w ith belly p e n dent to the groun d
, ,

and w hite moo n o n the t o p o f his forehea d ; his pork

butcher - like method o f detai n i ng a p arty of travellers
w hile b e rolled himself in the sa nd a n d at last cam e u p
,

a n d i n spected them a ll rou n d selecting the fattest his

p o w er of tra n sforming himself i nto an i n noce n t-
,

Jooking
w oodcutter a nd calli n g o r w histling through the w oo d s
,

till an u n su specti ng victim approached ho w th e

spirits o f a ll his victims rode w ith hi m on his hea d ,

w a r m ng him o f every danger and guidi n g hi m t o the

,

fatal ambu sh w h ere a traveller w ould shortly pass A ll .

the best shik a ris o f the cou n try - side w ere collecte d in
my cam p ; a n d the landholders and ma ny of the peo p le
besieged my tent morning and eve n i ng The infant o f .

a w oman w ho ha d bee n carried a w ay w hile dra w ing

w ater at a w ell w a s brought and h el d u p before me ;
and every o ffer o f assistance in destroyi ng the m o n ster
wa s m a d e N o useful help wa s ho w ever to be expecte d
.
, ,

from a terror- stricke n populatio n like this They lived in .

barricaded houses an d only stirred o u t w hen necessity

compelled in large bo d ies covered by armed m en and
, ,

beati ng d rums a n d shouting as they p assed alo ng the

roads M a n y v illages ha d been u tterly deserted ; an d
.

the country wa s evidently bei ng slo wly d epopulated by

 T HE T IG ER . 31 1

this si ngle a nimal S o far as I cou l d lear n he had

.

b ee n killi ng alo n e for about a year —a n other tige r who

,

ha d formerly assisted him in his fell occupati o n h avi ng

bee n shot the previous hot w eather B et u l has al w ays .

b ee n u n usually favoured w ith m a n- eaters the caus e ,

a ppare n tly being the great number o f cattle that come

fo r a limi t ed season to gra z e i n that cou n try a n d a ,

s carcity o f other prey at the time w hen they are a b se n t

,

combined w ith the u n usually co nve n ient cover for tigers

e xisti ng alo ngside most o f the roads The m a n - eaters .

of the C e ntral Provinces rarely co nfine themselves

s o le l to human food though some have al m ost done
y ,

so t o my o wn k n o wledge V arious circumstan ces may

.

lead a tiger to prey o n man ; a n ythi n g i n fact that , ,

i ncapacitates him from killi ng other game m ore difficult

t o procure A tiger who has got very fa t a n d heavy o r
.
,

v ery o l d o r w ho has b een disabled by a w ou n d or a

, ,

tigress who has had to bri ng up young cubs w here other

game is scarce — all these take n aturally to m a n who is ,

th e easiest a n imal o f all t o kill as soon as failure w ith

,

other prey bri n gs o n the p angs o f hu nge r ; a nd once a

tiger has fou n d o u t ho w easy it is t o overcome the lord
o f creation a n d ho w good he is to eat he is apt to stick
, ,

t o him a nd if a tigress to bri n g up her proge ny i n the

, , ,

same li n e o f business The greater prevale n ce o f man

.

e aters i n o n e district than in another I co n sider to b e

that I have mentioned G reat grazi n g districts w here

.
,

the cattle come o nly fo r a limited season are al ways the ,

w ors t
. Where the cattle remai n all the year rou nd as ,

in N im a r the t igers rarely take to man -

,
eati ng .

A s soo n as I could ride i n the ho wdah and lo ng ,

before I could do more than hobble o n foot I marched ,

t o a place called Cha r khé r a w here the last kill had been
,

r e p orte d . My usually s t raggli ng follo wi ng wa s n o w

31 2 T HE HIGHLAND S OF C E N T R A L INDIA .

compressed int o a close bo d y p recede d and follo w e d by ,

-
th e baggage ele p han ts and protected by a gu ard o f ,

p olice w ith muskets p eons w ith my s p are guns and a

, ,

w hole p osse o f ma t c hl o c k ed shik a ris T wo d eserted .

villages w ere p asse d o n the road and heaps o f sto n es at ,

i nterval s sho w e d w here a traveller ha d been str u ck

do wn A better hunting -
. ground for a man - eate r
certainly coul d n ot b e Thick scrubby teak j u n gl e
.

close d in the road o n both sides ; a nd alo n gside o f it for

a great part o f th e w a y w oun d a narro w d ee p w ater
course oversha d o w e d by t hic k j a man b ushes and with
, ,

h ere a nd there a small pool o f w ater still left I hunted .

alo n g this n a l a th e w hole w a y a n d fou nd ma ny old

'

. ,

tracks o f a very large male t ig er fi w hich the shik a r i s

f

declare d to be th e m a n- eater There w e r e n one mo r e .

recent ho w ever than several d ays Cha rkhér a wa s also

, ,
.

deserte d o n account o f the tiger an d the r e w a s no shade ,

to speak o f ; but it w a s the m ost central place w ithi n

reach o f the u sual haunts o f the brute s o I encampe d ,

here and sent the baggage -

, elepha nts back to fetc h
provisions I n the eve n i n g I w a s startled by a
.

m esse nger from a place called L é o n the M o ran river , ,

nearly i n th e d irection I had come from who said that ,

o n e o f a party o f p ilgrims w ho had bee n travelli n g u ns u s

ec t in l by a j u n gle road had bee n carrie d o ff by the

p g y
t iger close to that place E arly next morni ng I started o ff
.

w ith t w o el epha n ts a n d arrived at th e s p ot about eight

,
’
o clock The m a n ha d b ee n struck d o w n where a small
.

ravi n e leadi n g do wn to th e M o ra n crosses a lonely p ath

w a y a fe w m iles east o f L é The sh oulder -stick with its .

pe nde n t baskets in w hich th e holy w ater fr om his place

,

A little p actice suffices t o d isti nguish the t acks f tige s

r r o r of

d iffe e n t ages n d sexes The l d m ale h a m uch q r t ack

r a . o a s s u a re r ,
so

t o s p eak tha n the fe m ale w hich leaves a m e o val f t p i n t

, ,
or oo r .
31 4 T HE HIGHLAN DS OF CEN T R AL INDIA .

th e mor n i ng for his track had c over ed that o f th e

,

e lepha n ts as they came I t wa s too late to h ope to fin d

.

hi m that eveni ng ; a n d w e coul d o n ly procee d slo w ly

al o ng o n the track w hich held to the path w ay keepi ng
, ,

a bright look - out The Lana indeed proposed that he

.

should go a little ahead as a bait for the tiger w hile I ,

c overed hi m from the elepha n t w ith a rifle ! But he

w o u nd u p by expressi n g a doubt w hether his ski nny
corporatio n w oul d be a s u fli c ie nt attractio n a nd sug ,

g este d that a p lum p you n g policeman w h o had taken

,

a dva n tage o f o u r protection to m ake his o ffi cial visit t o

t he scen e o f t h e last kill should be s ubstitut ed w hereat

, ,

t here w a s a ge n eral but n o t very h earty gri n The .

subj ect w a s too sore a o n e in that n eighbourhoo d j ust

the n A bout a m ile from th e camp the track turn ed o ff
.

int o th e deep n a l a th at bordered the roa d I t w a s no w .

a lmost dark so w e w e n t o n t o the camp a n d fortified it

, ,

by posti n g th e three el epha n ts o n di ffere nt sides a nd ,

l ighti n g roari n g fires b et w ee n O nce in the n ight an

.

e lepha n t started o u t o f its dee p slee p a n d trumpete d

s hrilly bu t i n th e morning w e could find n o tracks o f

,

the tiger havi ng come n ear u s I w ent o u t early n ext .

m o r n i ng t o b eat u p th e n a l a for a m a n- eater is n o t

like commo n tigers a nd must b e sought fo r morning
, ,

n oo n ,
and night B ut I found n o tracks s ave i n th e
.
,

o n e place w here w e had crossed th e n a l a the evening

before and go n e o ff into thick j u ngle

, .

O n my retur n to camp j ust as I w a s sitti ng do w n t o

,

breakfast some Ba nj a r a s from a place called D ékna

,

about a mile a n d a half from cam p — came ru nn i ng in to

sa
y that o n e o f their com p a n io n s had bee n take n o u t o f
t he middle o f their d rove o f bullocks by the tige r j ust ,
’
a s they w ere starti n g from th eir night s e n campme n t .

Th e elepha nt had not bee n u n har n essed a n d securi ng , ,

 T HE T IGER . 31 5

s ome food a n d a bottle of claret I wa s n o t t w o mi nutes ,

i n getti ng u n der w a y a gai n The e dge of a lo w sava nn a

.
,

c overed w ith lo n g g r ass and i n tersected by a mil d w a s ,

the sce n e o f this last assassi n atio n a nd a b r oad trail of

crushed - do w n g r ass sho w ed w here th e body had b ee n
d r agged do w n to w ards the n a l a N o t r acki n g w a s r e
.

quired ; it w a s horri bly plai n The trail did n o t lead .

uite i n to the n a l a w hich had steep sides bu t tu r n ed

q , ,

a nd w e n t alo n gside o f it i n to some ve r y lo ng grass

reachi n g n ea r ly u p t o the ho w dah H ere S arj u Pa r sh a d .

( a large G over n me n t m ukua I w a s then ri d i n g kicked

)
viole n tly at the grou n d a nd tr u mpeted a n d immediately ,

th e lo n g g r ass b ega n to w ave ah ead We pushed o n at .

full speed steppi ng as w e w e nt over the ghastly half

,

e aten b ody o f the Ba nj a r a B ut th e cover w a s dread

.

fully thick a nd though I caught a glimps e o f a yello w

o bj ect as it j umped do wn i nto the n al a it wa s n o t in ,

time t o fire I t w a s some little time before w e c o uld g e t

.

the elephan t do w n the b a n k a nd follo w the b road plai n

footpri n ts o f the m o n ster no w evide n tly g o i n g at a
,

s wi ngi ng trot H e kept o n in the 11 21121 fo r about a mile

.
,

a nd the n took to the grass agai n ; but it w a s n o t so lo n g

h ere and we could still make o u t the trail from the

,

ho wdah Prese n tly ho w ever it le d i nto rough sto ny

.
, , ,

g r ound ,
a nd th e tracking became more difficult H e .

w a s evide n tly full o f go and w oul d carry u s fa r ; so I

,

se n t back for some more trackers a nd w i t h orders to ,

s e n d a small te n t across to a hamlet o n the ba nks o f the

G a nj a l to w ards w hich he seemed to be maki ng A ll

,
.

that day w e follo wed the trail through a n excee d i ngly

d ifficult country patie n tly w orki n g o u t pri nt by print
, ,

but w ithout b ei ng gratified by a sight o f his b ri n dled

h ide S everal o f the local shik a ri s w ere admirable
’

trackers a n d w e carried the li n e do wn w ithi n a b out a

31 6 T H E HIGHLAND S OF C EN T RA L I NDIA .

mil e o f t he river wh ere a d e n se thorny cover began

, ,

thro u gh w hich n o o n e coul d follo w a tiger .

We slept that n ight at the little village an d early ,

next m or n i n g ma d e a long cast ahea d procee d ing at ,

once to the river w here w e soon hit upo n the tr a ck

,

leading straight do w n its san d y bed There w ere som e .

strong covers reported in th e river - b e d some mile s

ahead near th e large vill a ge o f Bha dii g a o n s o I se n t
’

, ,

back t o order th e tent over there The track w a s cross e d .

in this river by several oth ers but w a s easily distin ,

u is ha bl e from a l l by its su p erior size I t ha d also a

g .

peculiar d rag o f th e t o e o f o n e hi n d - foot w hich t he ,

p eopl e k n e w an d attribut ed to a w ou n d he had received

som e m onths before fr om a shik a ri s m atchlock Ther e ’

w a s thus n o doubt w e w ere behind the man — eater a n d I ,

d etermi n ed to follo w him w hile I could hold out an d w e

could keep the track I t l e d right into a very dens e
.

cover o f j a ma n a n d tamarisk i n the bed a n d o n t he

,

ban ks o f the river a fe w miles above Bha d i i g a o n

,
’
.

H aving bee n har d p ush e d th e p revious day w e h ope d ,

h e might lie u p h ere a n d indeed there w a s no oth e r

, ,

p lace he co u ld w ell go t o for w ater and shade S o w e .

circled rou n d the outsi d e o f th e cover a nd finding n o , ,

track leadi n g o u t co n sidered him fairly ringed We

, .

the n w e n t over to th e v illage fo r breakfast inte n di n g ,

to return i n the heat o f th e day .

There I w a s told by o n e o f th e mahouts a story ,

w hich I afte r w ards hea r d confirmed from the lips o f

o n e o f the p r i ncipal actors regardi n g a n otable e n
,

cou nter w ith tigers in th e very cove r w he r e w e had

ri nged th e m a n - eater I t w a s in 1 8 5 3 that the t wo
.

broth ers N a n d C olo n el G b eat th e cover for a family

. .

o f tigers said to b e in it O n e o f th e brothers w a s

.

posted in a tree w hile G a nd the oth er N he a t throug h

, . .
31 8 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

p osted a pad -el ep han t at th e o nl y poi n t w here h e coul d

eas ily get u p th e high ba nk a nd make o ff ; a n d then
pushe d old S a rj i i slo w ly a n d carefully th r ough th e cover
’
.

Peafo w l rose i n n umbers from eve r y b ush as w e a d

v a nce d and a fe w h ares and other small an imals bolte d
o u t at the e d ges — such t hi c k green covers b ei n g t he

mid d ay resort o f all th e life of t he n eighb o u r h ood in

th e hot w eather A bout th e centre th e j u n gle w a s
.

extremely thick a n d th e bottom w a s cut u p i nto a

,

n umb er o f parallel w ater - chan nels amo n g t he stron g

roots a nd ove r hang i n g bra n ches o f t he tamarisk H er e .

th e elephan t paused a n d b ega n to kick th e ear th a n d ,

utter the l o w tremulous s ou n d by w hich some elepha n ts

de n ote t he close prese n ce of a tiger We peere d a l l
.

about w ith nervous beati n gs o f th e h eart ; an d at last

’
the mahout w ho w a s l o w er do w n o n th e el ephant s
,

n eck , said he s a w him lyi n g beneath a thick j a man

bush We h a d som e sto n es in the h o wdah a n d I ma d e
.
,

th e L a ll a who w a s behi n d me in the back s eat pitch o n e

, ,

i nto the bush I n stantly the tiger started u p w ith a short

.

roar a n d gallope d o ff through the bu shes I gave him .

right a n d left at o n ce w hich told loudly ; but h e w ent

,

till h e s a w th e p a d -
elep ha n t blocki n g the road he mean t
t o esc a pe by and then h e turne d and ch arged back at
,

m e w ith horrible roars I t w a s very difficult t o s e e

.

hi m among th e crashi ng bushes a n d he w a s w ithin

,

t w e nty yar d s w hen I fired again This dr oppe d hi m

.

1 nt o o n e of the cha nn els but he picked himse l f u p an d ,

came o n ag a in as savagely tho u gh m ore slo wly th an

befo r e I w a s n o w in th e a ct of coveri ng him w ith th e
.

l arge shell rifle wh en suddenly th e elepha n t spu n rou n d

, ,

a nd I fou n d myself looki ng the op p osite w a w hile a

y ,

w or r yi n g sou n d behi n d m e a n d the fr a ntic movements

o f th e elepha n t tol d me I ha d a fello w - passenger o n
 T HE T IGER . 31 0

board I might w ell have dispensed with A ll I coul d .

do in th e w a y o f holdi ng o n barely sufficed to p r eve nt

myself a n d gu ns from bei ng pitched out ; a nd it wa s
some time before S arj u fi ndi n g he could n o t kick him
,

o ff paused to thi nk w hat he w ould do n ext

, I sei z ed .

that placid interval to lea n ove r behi nd a nd put the

muzzle o f the rifle to the head of the tige r b lo w i ng it ,

int o fifty pieces w ith the large shell H e dr opped like .

a sack o f potatoes ; a n d then I s a w the dastardly

mahout urgi n g the el epha nt t o r u n o u t of the co v er .

A n application o f my g u n - stock to his head h o w eve r , ,

reversed the e ngi n e and S a rj i i comi ng rou n d w ith the

’

utmost w illi n g ness trumpeted a shrill n ote of defian ce

, ,

and rushi n g upon his prostrate foe comme nced a w a r

da n ce o n his body that made i t little less difficult to
,

stick to him t ha n w hen the tiger wa s bei n g kicked o ff .

I t co nsisted I believe o f kicki ng u p the ca r case w ith a

, ,

hi n d-leg catchi n g it in the hollo w o f the fo r e a nd so

, ,

tossi ng it back wards and for w ards am o n g his feet ,

w i ndi ng up by placi n g his huge fore - foot o n the b ody

and crossi ng the other over it s o as to press it i n to the
,

sa n d w ith his w hole w eight I fou n d afte r w a r ds that

.

the elephan t -boy w hose bu siness it is to sta n d behi n d

,

the ho w dah and if n ecessary keep the elephan t

, , ,

straight i n a charge by a p plyi ng a thick stick ove r his

rump had had a nar ro w escap e in this adve n ture
, ,

havi ng dr o pped o ff i n his frigh t almos t i nto the j a w s

o f the tiger . The tiger made straight for the elephant ,

ho w ever as is almost invariably the case a nd the bo y

, ,

p icked himself u p and fled t o the protectio n o f the othe r

ele p hant .

S a rj i i w a s not a perfect shik a ri ele p ha n t ; but his

'

fault w a s rather too much courage tha n the reverse a n d ,

it wa s only his miserable opium -eati ng villai n o f a

32 0 T HE HIGHLAND S OF C EN T RAL INDIA .

mahout that made him t urn at th e critical m o me nt .

H e w a s m u ch cut a b out the quarters ; but I took him

o u t clos e t o th e te n ts t w o days after a nd killed t w o

more tigers w ithou t his flin ehing i n the least The .

tiger w e had th us killed w a s u n doubtedly th e man

eater H e w a s exactly ten feet long in the p r ime o f ,

—
.

life w ith th e dull yello w coat o f the adult male no t

,

-
in th e least m a n gy o r toothless like the man eater o f
story H e had n o moon o n his head n o r did his belly
.
,

nearly touch the grou nd I afterw ar d s fou n d t hat these

.

c haracteristics are attribute d to all man -eaters by the

c re d ulou s people .

B efo re dismissi n g S arj u from these pages I w ould ,

like t o recor d an anecdote o f his sagacity w hich I thi nk

’
b eats everythi ng I have hear d o f the elephan t s i ntellect .

H e w a s a co nsummate thief and ha d gro wn s o cunni ng

,

that he w ould unfasten any chains o r rope s he wa s

tethered w ith which he often w ould do o f a dark night
,

if not w atch ed a nd procee d to roam about seeki ng w hat

,

h e might devour H is favourite obj ec t o n su ch occasio ns

.

w a s sugar - cane a nd if he got i n to a fiel d o f this w ould

,

tram p l e do wn and damage the greater part o f it .

Man y a lo n g bill have I p aid for such depredations .

H e w ould n ever allo w himself to b e caught again after

such an escap ade w hile his kee p ers p urs u ed him with
sticks a n d threats but surrendered at o nce as soon as
,

they resorted to p ersuasio n and promised no t to beat,

him On e night the people o f the camp w ere sitti ng

.

up late over a small fire an d s a w S a rj ii u nloose his

’

foot - ch ai n and stalk o ff through th e camp P r esen tly .

h e appear ed s niffi n g about th e place w here a g r ain

mercha n t had brought o u t his sacks duri ng the day
to supply the w a nts o f th e cam p A sack o f rice n early
.
,

em p ty lay u nder the head o f a sleepi ng la d a n d S arj u

, ,
32 2 T H E HIGHLANDS OF C E N T R A L IN D IA .

d ecrease d a n d th e ex p erience o f a few years will s ho w

w hether th e tigers again get the up p er han d I t is .

p ractically o n ly the cattle - killing an d man - eating tigers

that are p ro d u ctive o f inj ury those which princi p ally
,

subsist o n game b ei ng p robably m ore useful than

noxious . Poison has som etimes b een s u ccessful in
d estroyi ng a man - eater a famou s tigress that l on g ,

ravage d the w estern p art o f C hi n d w a ra d istrict having

'

.
,

been kille d w ith strychnine j ust a d ay before I arrive d

aft er a force d march o f a hundre d miles t o hunt her .

More co m mo nly h o w ever p oison is o f no a vail wit h

, ,

these cunni n g brutes ; an d as a rule man -,

eaters can ,

o n ly be killed by the E uro p ean s p ortsman w ith the hel p

o f an elephant th e n ative s hika rl s rarely attem p ting t o
’

molest them E le p hants have been ma d e more av a ilabl e

.

than formerly s ome o f t he j ungl e d istricts having a

,

G overnm ent o ne attache d to them b esi d es many ,

p ossesse d by various public d e p artments ; an d man

eaters o f a ha d ty p e n o w rarely survive lo n g I t is .

a great p oint to extinguish thos e brutes at th e outset o f

their career for if n o t kille d w hen h e commences t o

, ,

prey o n hum an beings a tiger b ecomes s o cunni ng that

,

it is afterw ards a m ost d ifficult thing to circu mvent him

”

O n the 2 7 t h o f May I shot my last tiger fo r th a t

s eason in th e fam ous cover o f D a pa r a being s eize d t he ,

next d ay w ith th e p reliminary sym p toms o f w hat turne d

out to be a severe attack o f j ungle fever brought o n by ,

co n stant ex p osure to th e ho t su n by d ay an d the mala

r io u s air o f thes e clos e valleys by n ight ; cholera too , ,

w a s ragi n g a ll around us and so I determined t o return

,

t o the cool heights o f Pu ehmu rr e e which I did by the

,

B ori route in four longish m arches I wa s sick o f the

, .

-
co n stant severe heat o f th e burnt u p p lains belo w a n d ,

parche d w ith the comi n g fever as well an d I think I ,

 T HE T IG ER . 32 3

n ever enj oyed an ythi ng so much as w h e n I bare d my

head to the cool bre ez e that s wept over the Pu ehmu rr e e
plateau a s I topped its edge after climbing up the stiff
,

a scent o f the R ori G h a t .The thermometer in my te nt

belo w had been ran gi ng from 9 8 degrees to 1 1 0 degrees
duri ng the heat o f the d ay a n d had o n ce reached 1 2 0
,

d egrees when I w ent o u t and lay like a tiger u n der

,

s ome j a man b u sh es by the w ater - side I n the verandah .

o f the lodge o n P u ehmu r r e e w hich w a s n o w n early

,

finishe d it stood at 8 6 d egrees w hile the nights which

, , ,

belo w ha d not fo r w eeks been free from hot w inds w ere ,

c ool a n d delicious up here S oon after comi n g up I w a s

.

fairly prostrated w ith fever and remai n ed delirious for

,

about a cou p le o f d ays emergi ng at last thanks to a

, ,

v ery atte n tive n ative doctor w e had much shake n and ,

w eak b ut free fro m th e fever

,
N early all my serva nts
.

a n d the cam p foll o w ers w ho had b e en through the

h o t w eather w ith m e also got fever o n comi n g up to
Pu ehm u r r e e a n d the place presented much the ap p ear
,

an ce o f an exte n sive hos p ital for some w eeks .

The first rai n of the mo n soon fell o n the 1 2 th o f

Jun e a smart sho w er that as if by magic covered the
, , , ,

plateau w ith the greenest o f ti nts The w ild flo we rs .

,

t oo again burst forth o n al l si d es u nder the i nflue n ce

, ,

o f the ge n tle sho w ers th at n o w almost daily v isited the

bill.
I t wa s i n expressibly d elightful t o b e u p here in a ,

p erfec tly E nglish climate w ith cool gray skies a n d

, ,

greenery all about after the terri b le grilli ng w e had

,

suffere d fo r t wo lo n g mo n ths d o w n belo w My Kork u .

frien d s seemed glad t o see me back agai n and I tried to ,

go o u t after th e biso n w ith them bu t I fou n d myself ,

far t o o w eak t o negotiate the formi d able slopes of

D hupg a r h The early part o f the rai ny seaso n w hich
.

wa s n o w a pp roachi ng is the v ery best t ime o f all for

Y 2
32 4 T H E HIGH LAN D S OF C E NT R AL INDIA .

hunting the bison tracks b eing easily follo w e d whil e

, ,

the sky is generally overcast w ith clouds a nd th e ,

w eather cool i n these high regions To w ar d s t he e nd .

o f the month the clou d s b ega n t o ba n k up i n to d ee p

pur p le masses behi n d the higher p eaks a nd at night ,

lightni n g p layed incessant l y roun d the h orizo n By .

g reat exertions w e g o t the house roofed j ust in tim e t o

’
hang a biso n s frontlet over th e door and christen it ,

B ison L o dge b efore the full force o f the m onsoon

,

broke u p on the plateau o n the last d ay o f June I .

must no t n o w tell o f th e many p leasant d ays and j ovial

nights p asse d bet w een those four w alls in after years ,

w hen th e fire b l azing in the arche d grate I had buil d e d

w ith my o wn hands and th e j o r u m o f w hisky to dd y
,

importe d from my n ative hills d elu d e d u s into th e ,

belief that w e w ere far a way from the exile if still a ,

pleasant exile o f the highla n d s o f C e ntral I n d ia S uch

, .

a terrific storm I never s a w a s o n th e night o f the break

ing o f the monsoon crash after crash seeming t o burst
,

w ithi n the rooms w hile a blaze o f green light n ing

,

incessantly lit up th e w hol e features o f the bill I t .

laste d ab out the w h ole night a nd nearly four i n ches o f

,

rain fell along w ith it bu t o n its clearing u p in the

,

morning such is the beautiful d rai n age o f this plateau

,

tha t in less than an hour a horse could have gallope d o v e r

it comfortably in any d irectio n R ai n clouds co ntinu e d
.

t o shrou d the higher pe a ks an d roll rou n d the edges o f

,

th e plateau th e w hole time I remai ned o n the h ill b ut

, ,

w e never ha d another heavy storm and w hat is very , ,

u n usu al at such altitu d es the clouds never i n vade d th e

,

centr e o f the p lateau at all I had repeated returns o f

.

the fever and neither coul d my peo p le shake i t o ff

, .

C onvenie n ces to help recovery w ere also w anti ng an d I ,

left the plateau o n the 2 ot h o f July t o march to J u bb u l

p u r I t wa s a m elancholy p rocession d o w n the hill
.
,
32 6 T H E HIGH L A NDS OF C EN TR A L INDIA .

I shall say much of my long ri d e o f a hun d re d

no t

miles to J u bbu lpri r in th e soaki ng rain thro u gh the stiff

’

black mu d and u nbri d ged streams o f the N arba d a valley .

I t w a s very m iserable with th e chills o f agu e in one s

,
’

bones With t he exception o f a fe w days w hen I had

.
,

the excellent society o f my frien d C a p tain Pearson I ,

H ORNS OF H OG —
DEE R A RK I NG-DEE R MA L E A ND F E MA L E CH I KARA
B A ND

F O UR-H O RN ED A NT E L O P E (S ca le o n -
, , ,

.
,
t ent h )
e .

ha d no t seen a w hite face duri n g these six month s o f

j u ngl e wan d erin g s ; an d though by n o m eans tire d o f
the w ild in d e p en d ent life o f a forester o r of the
, ,

company o f th e hill p eo p le and th e ki ndly littl e ban d o f

d ependants I h ad gathere d about me the society o f a ,

pleasant station like the J u bb u lpur o f those days wa s an

agreeable change .
 CHA PT ER V II I .

TH E H I GH E R A
NA R B D A .

J UBBUL P UR is no w rather an importa n t place bei ng the

,

point o f j unctio n o f the t w o lines of rail w ay w hich

b et w ee n them con n ect the political w ith the commercial

c apital o f I nd ia C alcutta with Bombay a nd over which
, ,

pass all the passe ngers a n d much o f the goods in

, ,

transit bet w een E ngla n d and Up per I ndia A t the

.

time o f w hich I w rite it w a s a small civil a nd mil itary

s tation o f w hich fe w who ha d not bee n there k n e w a ny
,

thing excep t that it wa s situated some where i n the

,

w il d s o f C entral I n d ia. I remember w he n w e first got

o u r orders t o march there from U pper I ndia n o o ne

could give us a route to it I t w a s t r ooped fro m

.

Madras at that time a nd so o f course t he Be ngal

,

auth orities could not b e expected to kno w a nythi ng

a bout it. We found it the pleasa ntest o f I ndia n
stations ; situated in a green hollo w amo n g l o w rocky
granit e hills al w ays covered w ith verdure ; w ith tidy
hard roa d s and plenty o f g r ee n s ward about them ;
w ith commodious bu ngalo ws e mbo w ered in mag nifice n t
c l umps o f bamboo ; remarkable for the delicacy a nd
abu n da nce o f its fruits a nd other garde n products ,

i n cludi ng the p inea p ple which w ill no t gro w a ny where

,

e lse i n C entral I ndia ; a n d w ,

n -
ithal from its la d locked
32 8 T HE HIGHLANDS OF C E N T R AL INDIA .

co n dition forbidding exports a most absurdly cheap sor t

,

o f p lace to live in A ll this is no w ch ange d The steam

. .

h orse has torn his w a y through the parks a nd levelle d ,

the bambo o clum p s that w ere th e glory of the p lace .

H ideous e mbank ments a n d m o n strous hotels an d othe r

, ,

truly B ritish b uildi n gs stare o n e in the face at every

,

turn C ro wds o f rail -

. born e pic t u r es qu er s assa il the ”

Marble R ocks a n d other sights a b out the p lace E v ery .

thi ng has run u p t o th e famine prices indu ced by the

”
rap i d progress o f the l a st ten years A n d progress it
.

is in every proper se n s e o f the w ord The N arbad a

,
.

v alley is n o w a p art o f the great bustling w orl d outside ,

i nstea d o f bei ng a m ere isolated oasis in a d esert o f

j u n gle thi nking and caring only about its o wn petty
,

w a n ts and co n cerns The agriculturist the m erchant

.
, ,

“
a n d all w ho p addle th eir o wn canoe o n the great
ocean of life are all the better fo r it Their gains hav e
,
.

gro wn in m ore th a n p roportio n to their outgoi ngs .

“
O nly such w retches as sail in foreig n bottoms have
t o regret the change ; their fixed i n comes have not

gro w n w ith t he gro w th o f their ex p e n ses The p oo r .

clerk who could barely in th e o ld times keep bo d y and

,

soul togeth er o n his p ittanc e o f t en ru p ees a month ,

gets no m ore n o w that his ex p enses are doubled .

G overnm e nt schools have flooded his market w it h

competitors who preve n t his w ages from risi ng by their
,

importunity for o ffice ; and th e G overnme nt no t having ,

yet discovered the w a y t o raise its o w n i ncome w hen ,

appealed to fo r more buttons u p its pockets a n d p oi n t s

, ,

to th e cro w ds ready and w illi ng to s erve fo r less Th e .

poor cle r k has his reme d y ; he can p ick a n d steal e n o u gh

to m ake u p the deficiency ; and he does so But the .

subaltern o f i nfantry o r th e young civilian bei ng

, ,

incommoded w ith the troublesom e com m odity called

330 T H E HIGH LAN D S OF C E N T R AL INDIA .

into th e N arba d a v a lley co ngregating at that time , ,

w hen th e great mutiny ha d fo r som e years p revente d

their m ol estation in very great nu mb ers
, .

I have marche d u p this v all ey o n my wa y to ex p lore ,

the S a l forests in the eastern p art o f th e p rovince But .

w ant o f time th e n p revente d my li n gering t o shoot .

The year before j oi n ing th e F o rest D e p artment ho w ever , ,

I ha d ma d e an excursion u p this valley d uri ng the hot

s eason ; a n d w hil e cantone d at J u bbu l ur ma d e many
p ,

excursions through the hilly regions s urrounding the

v alley . S everal sort s o f game which have n o t yet been
mu ch me ntione d w er e then m et with in great abun
dance ; and before t aking my rea d ers t o ward s the S a l
forests I w ill devote a little s p a ce to these excursio n s .

I wa s then a good d eal o f a griffin an d w a s

”
,

o blige d to rely much o n the assistance o f nativ e s hik a rl e

'

in fin d ing game The chief o f these about J u bbu lpur

.

w a s an arch - villain w ho hau nted the p urlieus o f t he

c antonment messes a nd ha wke d about his ne w s o f
,

panthers b ears deer etc to the highest bi dd er I

, , , .
, .

d on t think I ever hear d his name H e w a s al ways

’
.

c alle d Ba m a nj ee
“
o r the B rahman for such wa s
,
” “
,

his caste H e kne w inti mately every inch o f th e j u ngl e

.

for t w enty mil e s aroun d an d ha d sons and neph e ws in

,

clos e relatio n s w ith the tigers an d other w ild animals in

a ll d irectio n s H e w a s thoroughly acqu a inte d w ith a ll
.

the di ffere nt sorts o f game a nd their ha b its an d really ,

coul d w hen h e ch ose furnish fi r s t -

,
rate sport to his
,

clie n ts But he w a s by nature a rogu e o f the first

.

w ater generally tak i ng his information all round th e

,

station for offers ; and taking o u t th e highe st bidder to

a hu n t which almost invariably e n de d throu g h som e ,

p erverse acci d ent in the escap e w ithout scathe o f the

,

obj ect o f pursuit w hich h e w oul d very likely bri ng in

,
 TH E H I GH E R NAR B AD A . 331

t he next day himself t o claim the G overnme nt re wa r d .

”
H e had stumbled o n it o f course quite by accide n t ,

a n d i n self-
, ,

defe n ce etc he w a s compelle d to shoot it

, .
,

H is great quarry w a s the panther of w hich he w a s ,

kno w n t o have killed an almost i ncredible n umber i n t he

c ou rse o f his lo n g life H e lived in a little village about
.

four miles o u t o f th e station j ust u n de r o ne of the steep ,

isolate d gra nite hills that rise at i ntervals fro m the

p lain ; and he o n ce sho w e d m e a notched stick o n ,

w hich fift y - t wo cuts recorded the n umber o f pa n thers

h e ha d killed o n this bill alone The n umber o f these .

a nimals in the districts round a b ou t J u bb u l pi i r is very

’

great The l o w rocky hills referred to full o f hollo ws

.
,

and cave r ns a nd overgro wn w ith dense scrub b y cover

, ,

a fford them favourit e retreats ; w hile the n u mbers o f

a ntelo p e a n d b e
g deer goats sh eep pariah
,
d ogs and , , ,

p igs su p ply them w ith abu nda n t foo d A large male

, .

panther w ill kill n o t very heavy cattle ; but a s a rule

t hey co n fi n e themselves to the smaller a nimals m e n
t i o ne d They seldom reside very far from villages
. ,

ro w li n g rou nd them a t night i n search of prey a nd

p ,

retreati n g to their fastnesses before daybreak Unlike .

the tiger they care little for the n eighbourhood o f w ater

,

e ven i n the hot w eather dri nking o n ly at night a nd

, ,

g enerally at a distance from their midday retreat .

There has bee n mu ch co nfusio n amo ng sportsme n a nd

“
w riters as to th e several species o f C at called Pa nthe r ,

“
L eopard and H u n ti n g L eopard Jerdo n in his
,
” “
.
”
,
”
Mammals o f I n dia has at last c orr ectly dis t i nguished
,

them u nder the above names recog nisi ng t wo varieties ,

m arked w ith rosettes (the fulvous grou n d o f the ski n

sho w i ng through the b lack ) instead of plai n black spots , ,

w hich are peculiar to the H unting L eopa r d (F J u ba t a

) . .

H e calls bot h F P a r d u s co nsideri ng them o n ly as

. ,
332 T HE HIGHLANDS OF C EN TR AL INDIA .

varieties not distinct s p ecies I n E nglish h e c a lls t he

,
.

larger the pan ther a nd the smaller the leo p ard an d it ,

w ill be w e l l if s p ortsmen w ill avoid fu ture confu sion b y

a d opting this a pp ro p riat e nomenclature The p oints o f .

d ifference bet ween the t w o varieties o f F P a r d u s h e .

states to be the larger size o f the p a n the r w hic h reache s ,

in fine s p ecimens s even fe et eleven inches in l e ng th

from n ose t o tip o f tail the leo p ard n o t excee d i ng five
,

feet six i n ches the lighter colour and taller and more ,

slen d er fi gure o f the panther and th e rounder more, ,

bull d og- like hea d o f the leopar d .

I n my early s p orting days I fell into the mistak e o f

most sportsme n in sup p osi ng that th e panther might b e
hu nted o n foot w ith l ess caution tha n the tiger O n .

t w o o r three occasions I nearly p aid dearly for the

e r ror and I n o w b elieve that the p anther is really by

far a more da n gerous animal to attack than the tiger .

H e is in the first place far more courageous F o r

, ,
.

th ough h e w ill ge nerally sneak a w ay u n observed as lo n g

as h e c a n if o n ce brou ght to close quarters he w ill
,

r a rely fail to charge w ith the u tmos t ferocity fighting ,

to the very last H e is also m uch more active than the

.

tiger making im me n se spri ngs clear o ff the grou n d

, ,

w hich th e tiger seldom does H e can co n ceal himself

.

in th e m ost w o n derfu l w a y his spott ed hide blending

,

w ith the grou n d an d his lithe loose for m bei n g c o m

,

pressibl e i n to a n inco n ceivably small space Further .

,

h e is s o much less in d e p th a n d stout n ess than the

tiger an d m oves so mu ch quicker that h e is far more
, ,

diffi cul t to hit i n a vital place H e can climb trees .

,

w hich th e tiger cannot do except for a sho r t dista n ce up

a thick slopi ng trunk A fe w years ago a panther thu s
.

took a sportsman o u t of a high perch o n a tree i n the

C hind w a r a distri ct A n d lastly his po wers o f offenc e
.
,
334 T H E HIGHLANDS OF C E N T R A L INDIA .

o ut the village H e wa s a p a n ther o f th e larges t

of .

size an d had b ee n woun d e d by a shik a rf from a tree

, ,

the ball passing through his external ear a nd o ne o f his

p aw s a n d rendering him incapable o f killi ng game I
,
.

w a s a w eek hu n ti ng him as he w a s very careful n o t t o

,

sh o w himself w hen p ursu e d ; an d at last I shot him in

a co whou se into w hich he ha d vent u red a n d killed ,

s everal head o f cattle before the p eo p le h a d c ourage t o

,

shut th e door .

When a panther tak es to man - eati ng he is a fa r ,

m ore terribl e s courge than a tiger I n 1 8 5 8 a man

.

killi n g pa nther devastate d th e n orthern p art o f the

S eo ni d istrict killi n g (i n cre d ibl e as it may seem ) nearly
’

a hu n dred p ersons before h e w a s shot by a shik a ri He '

never at e th e b odies but merely la p ped the bloo d from

,

the throat ; and his plan w a s eith er t o steal i nto a h ous e

at n ight a n d strangle som e slee p er o n his bed stifli n g
, ,

all outc r y w ith his dea d ly grip o r to climb into the high
,

p latform s from w hich w atch er s gu ard their fields from

deer a n d drag out his v icti m from there H e wa s n o t
,
.

to he baulked of his p rey a n d w hen driv e n o ff from o n e

end o f a village w oul d hurry roun d to the opposite si d e
,

a n d secure a n other i n the confusio n A fe w mome n ts

.

completed his deadly w ork and su ch w a s the devilish ,

cu nn i n g he j oi n e d to this extraor d inary b oldness that all

attempts t o fin d and shoot him w ere for many months
unsu ccessful E uro p ean s p ortsmen w ho w ent o u t afte r
.
,

hu n ti n g him in vain all day w oul d fi nd his tracks clos e

,

to th e door o f their t e nt in the morn i n g When a few .

,

years later I passed through the s cene o f his chief

,

d epredatio n s a curiou s myth ha d gro w n rou n d

th e history o f this p an ther A ma n and his w ife w ere
.

travelli n g back to their hom e from a pilgrimage t o

Be n ares when they met o n the road a p an ther The
, .
 TH E HIGH E R NA R BADA . 335

w oman w a s terrified ; but the man said Fear n o t I , ,

p ossess a charm by which I can tra n sfor m myself i nto

an
y sha p e. I w ill no w become a panther a nd remove ,

this obstacle from the road and o n my return you must ,

p lace this po w d er in my mouth w hen I w ill recover my ,

”
proper shap e H e then s wallo w ed his o w n portion o f
.

the magic p o w der a nd assumi n g the like n ess o f the

,

p anther persuaded him to leave the path R eturning

, .

t o th e w oma n he o p ened his mout h t o receive th e

,

tran sp osi ng charm ; but she terrifie d by his dreadfu l ,

a p peara n ce and open j a ws dropped it in the mire a nd , ,

it wa s lost The n in despair he killed the author o f

.
, ,

his mis fortu n e and ever after reve nged himself o n the
,

race w hose for m he coul d never resume .

The S eoni panther is n o t a solitary case s everal

’

other man - eati ng panthers havi ng do n e scarcely less

amount o f mischief in other p arts o f the provi n ce .

Their indi fference to w ater makes it extremely di fficult

to bring th e m to book ; a n d i n deed pa n thers are far , ,

more gene r ally met w ith by accide n t than secure d by

regular hunti ng When hea t ing w ith elepha nts they
.

are very rarely found con sideri ng their n umbers ; b ut ,

they must be frequ ently passed at a short dista n ce ,

u n o b serve d in this ki n d o f hunting I w a s hu nti ng for

,
.

a tigress a nd cubs n ear Kh a p a o n the L aw a river in , ,

B et u l ; their tracks of a fe w days old led i nto a deep

fissure in the rocky banks o f the river above w hich ,

I w e nt leavi ng t he elepha n t b elo w a nd thre w in sto n es

, ,

from the edge S ome w a y up I s a w a large pa nther

.

steal o u t at the head a n d sneak across the plai n H e

,
.

w a s o u t o f shot and I follo w ed o n his tracks w hich w ere

, ,

clear e n ough for a fe w hu ndred yards till at th e cross , ,

ing o f a small rocky n al a they disappeared I could ,

.

not make it o u t an d w a s retur ning to the ele p hant

, ,
336 T HE HIGHLANDS OF C E N T R AL INDIA .

w hen I s a w the driver making sig n als H e had follo w e d .

me u p above and had see n the panth er s n eak back

,

along the little n a l a w hich l ed int o the top o f t he

,

ravine and r e - ,
e nter the latter I then w ent a n d p lace d
.

myself so as t o comman d the top o f the ravi n e an d sent ,

people b elo w to fli ng in sto n es and prese ntly th e ,

p anther broke a gain at the same place this tim e gallo p ,

ing aw ay ope nly across the plai n I missed w ith bot h .

barrels o f my rifle b ut turned him over w ith a lucky

,

shot from a smooth - bore at more than t w o hu n d red

,

yar d s I the n w e n t u p t o him o n the elephant and

.
,

h e m a d e feebl e attempts to rise a n d come at me b ut h e ,

wa s too far go n e t o succee d The pa n ther w ill charge

.

an ele p ha n t w ith the g r eatest ferocity N ear S ambal p u r .

,

a p arty o f u s w ere beati ng a bamboo cover fo r p igs ,

w ith a vie w to th e sticki n g thereof my elepha n t aecom ,

p a nyi ng th e he a t e r s w hen a shout from the latter

,

ann ou n ce d that they had stu mbled o n a p anther They .

took t o trees and I g o t o n the elephant to turn him

,

out ,
w hile th e others exchange d their hog - s p ears for
rifles a n d surrounded th e p lace o n trees S he g o t u p
, .

before me b ou nding a w ay over th e l o w bamboos and I

, ,

stru ck her o n t he rump with a light breech - loadi n g g u n

as she d isap peare d S everal shots from t he trees failed
.

to sto p her a nd she took refuge in a very dense thorny

,

cover o n the ba nks o f a little stream T wice up and .

do w n I passed w ithout seeing the brute but firi ng o n ce ,

into a log o f w ood i n mistake fo r her an d wa s going ,

alo n g the t o p o f the cover fo r the third time w hen th e

elephant pointe d do wn the ba nk w ith h er extende d
trunk We thre w som e stones in but nothing move d ;
.
,

and at last a peon came up w it h a h u ge stone o n his

head w hich h e heave d do wn the bank N ext moment
, .

a yello w streak shot from the bushes an d levelli ng th e , ,

338 TH E HIGHLANDS OF CENT RAL INDIA .

co n sisted of tigers b ears s a mbar a nd spotted d eer

, , ,

a n d I fou n d that all t hes e w ere r eally attai n able i n n o

small n um b ers Th e s a mbar a n d bears lived o n the hill

.

ra nges o n either side o f th e r iver ; w hil e the spotte d

dee r as usual kept to t he ba nks o f the river w h ere a
, , ,

n et w ork of ravi n es covered w ith clumps o f bamboo

, ,

affo r ded the m th e ple n tiful sh a d e a n d a b u n dance of

w ater they d elight i n I n atte n da n ce o n the m w a s th e
.

tige r w ho revelle d i n th e abu n dan ce o f game the n con

,

re a t e d about th e river The herds o f cattle a n d

g g .

bu ffaloes that w ere g r a z i n g in th e valley w ere seldom

tou ched excepti n g i n o ne place w here I found a family
, ,

of tige r s w holly subsisti ng up o n the m b ut n early every

day w e stu mbled o n the remai ns o f spotte d dee r s a mbar , ,

a n d n i lg a i w hich ha d falle n victims to the destroye r

, .

The destroyer himself h o w ev er k ept w ith a good deal , , ,

o f su ccess ou t o f o u r w a y
, I wa s too gree n a hand to
.

hu nt him the n w ith the sile n t persevera nce w hich alo n e

e n sures success a nd coul d ra r ely resist a promisi ng shot
,

at other gam e on th e dista n t ch a n ce o f fi nd i n g a tiger .

No r do I thi n k that Mr Ba m a nj e e m uch d esired to have.

ve r y m a ny i n tervie w s w ith his j u ngle m aj esty S potte d .

deer w ere in immense numbers a n d the bucks w ere e very ,

w here bell o w i n g alo ng th e ba n ks a n d in the bamboo ,

covered ravi n es that radiat e from t he r ive r I t w a s .

v ery e a sy t o shoot th e poor brutes at that time th e best ,

pla n b ei n g to emba r k in a canoe du g o u t o f a si ngle log ,

a n d paddl e slo w ly do w n the reaches a little w a from

y
th e ba n k b et w een daybreak a nd t e n o r eleve n o clock
,
’
.

The air of repose w orn by the w hole scene at that time

i s scarcely b r oke n by th e moveme n t of a nimal life The .

l a z y plu n ge o f a crocodile the eddyi ng rise o f a gr eat ,

fi s h the hove r of a gem -

,
like ki ngfishe r t he easy flight ,

of the dark square - w i nge d buzzar d all add to rather

, , ,
 TH E HIGHER NAR BA D A . 339

I mme nse n u m b ers o f peafo wl live o n the b a nks This .

is the seaso n o f thei r loves a nd almost eve ry b a re k no l l

,

may be seen cove r ed w ith a flock o f them t he he ns ,

sitti ng de murely i n th e ce ntre w hil e the c o cks r u ffle ,

o u t thei r m ag nifice n t plumage a n d sp r ead t hei r g o rge o u s

,

trai n s a n d w alt z rou n d a n d rou n d them in a mos t

,

absurd fashio n The boatme n a r e fo nd o f t ryi ng t o

.

catch the m whe n absor b ed i n this d a nce of love ; a nd ,

though I have n eve r see n o ne actually secu r e d I have ,

see n a n active fello w get so n ear as t o pluck s o me

feathers fr om th e tail of the coll a psed a n d retreati ng
s w ai n No r iotous sou n d s o ffend the e a r i n this pe a ceful
.

valley The Ko el bi r d of the m o r n i ng raises n o w a nd

'

.
, ,

the n his staccato note fr o m s o me overha ngi ng t r ee o r ,

the gian t S a rus cra n e floats his tremul o us c r y alo n g t he

c alm surface of the lak e - like river .

But hark ! F r om a clump o f ta ngled bamboos ove r ,

ha ngi ng the mout h of a little b u r n that j oi n s the rive r ,

ri ngs th e l ou d bello w o f a spotted b uck The b oatm a n .

sticks his lo n g pol e do wn to the bottom a nd a nchors ,

the dug - out w hile the spo r ts m a n w ith cocked r ifle

, , ,

w atches in the b o w Prese ntly a rustle a nd a m o tio n

.

in the fr i nge of b r ight - gree n j a ma n b ushes that e dge t he

river a n d the head a n d shoulders of a n oble b uc k
,

e me r ge o n e fo
,
r e -
foot adv a n ced hesitati ngly to th e st r i p
o f yello w sa n d beside the w ater A n othe r i nsta nt a nd
.

h e sta n ds a statu e o f g race a n d b eauty o n the ope n

, ,

beach No w he has see n the b e at a nd his c a reless mie n

.
,

is chan ged fo r a n attitude o f i nte ns e regard M oti o nless .

,

head thro wn up a n d a n tle r s s w eepi ng his fla nks he

, ,

might b e photographed for the seco n d o r t w o he sta nds

at gaze I n a n i nsta nt mo r e he will w heel rou nd a nd
.

plunge into the thicket u n less s t e pp e d b y th e deadly

,

z 2
34 0 T HE HIGHLANDS OF C E N T R AL INDIA .

bullet . The true s p ortsman w ill often s p are t he

beautiful creature eve n w he n thus at the p oi n t o f his
,

rifle w h en a w eek or t w o o f the easy sport h as satiated

,

his ardour a n d fille d his camp w ith m eat a n d trophies

,

o f graceful antlers I t w a s impossible in those d ays t o

.

w alk half a m ile al ong th e river ba n k w ithout seei n g

deer a n d I have kno w n an indifferent shot kill six
,

bucks here in a m orni n g .

The r e wa s som e exciteme n t in th e chan ce o f stum

bli ng o n a tiger in t he cool thickets o f green cover by
the river o r like th e sportsma n stalki ng th e spotted
, , ,

deer I w a s follo w i n g a w ou n ded bu ck o n ce w hen I

.
,

thus almost trod u pon a tiger doi ng the very same thi ng .

I t w a s in the dusk o f the ev e n i ng w hen I s a w him about ,

t went y paces ahead o f m e r e a d ing u p t he bloody trail

,

like a retriever o n a w i n ge d pheasant H e w a s passi n g .

over a l o w ri d ge bet w ee n t wo ravi n es and I wa s belo w ,

him — a situation a wk w ard for a foot - encounter w ith any

da n gerou s a n imal I therefore w aited till h e d isap p eared
.

o n the other side and t he n r u n nin softly up p eered

, g ,

do w n from behind a clump o f bamboos Prese ntly I .

sa w th e w ou nde d buck a n d t wo does start o u t o f som e

cover b eyon d th e further ravi n e a n d the n a motion o f ,

the tiger w h o had b ee n stan di n g a little belo w them as

, ,

he quickly crou ched o u t o f their sight reveal ed him t o ,

me . I sat do w n and took a steady sh ot at his shoulde r

,

at ab out seventy yards H e rolled ba ck into the n a l a

.
,

above w hich I w a s stan d i n g and after a good deal o f , ,

gro wli ng a nd struggli ng amo ng th e lea ves all wa s still ,

.

I t w oul d h av e b ee n folly to go do wn t o him i n such

u ncertai n light so I retur n ed to the boat goi ng back
, ,

n ext m orni ng w ith a n elephant to see the result I t .

w a s j ust as w ell I had n o t ve n tured do wn in the dark

the night before ; for aft er lyi n g som e time w here h e
,
34 2 TH E HIGHL A NDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

of spotted deer gradu ally collecte d o n a ll th e knoll s

w ithi n sight o n th e i nw ar d side Th ey gre w an d gre w
.

i n n umbers ga z i n g back at th e hea t ers a nd for w ard a t

,

the tree where they h ad often ru n the gau ntlet b efore

, .

Th ey w ere very u n willi ng to come o n bu t the drive wa s ,

st r o ng and n o t to b e eluded I w atched fo r the tiger till

.

m a n y o f the d eer had go n e past ; at fi r st a s t raggli n g

d o e with h er fa w n the n small groups a nd fi nally a g r ea t
, ,

hustli n g m ass o f d app l ed hides and tossi ng a n tlers .

The r e w a s n o tiger evide n tly in th e hea t Th e Th a k u r s .

’

l o n g matchl o ck had al ready b ee n the death o f a buck ,

a n d h e wa s pai n fully r e l oadi n g i t s lo ng tu b e fr om his

primitiv e ch a rgi n g implements I had a coupl e o f rifles.

,

si ngle a n d d o u ble a nd it w a s th e w o r k o f a s ma n y
,

s ec o n ds only to fire the thre e barrels killi ng t wo a nd ,

w ou n d i ng a nothe r There w ere n o b r eech -loaders i n

.

t hose d ays but I had time t o reload the doubl e w hile

the stream o f deer p oured past a nd secure t wo more ,

b u cks before the hea t er s cam e up Th e w ounded buck .

w a s after w ar d s recovered Th ere can n ot have bee n les s

.

th a n a th ousan d spotte d d eer in this hea t a nd I n eve r

before o r since s a w such a sight With a breech - .loade r
t w e n ty o r thirt y bu cks could easily have bee n killed .

O n e o f the bu cks I killed had th e largest horn s I hav e

ever seen measuri ng each thirty -
,
eight i n ches roun d t he
curve .

I had a n other b eat for Whi t ehea d aft er wards nea r ,

the sam e place Th e beaters came o n him in a p atch

.

o f l o n g grass j u n gle from w hich h e obstinately refused

,

t o m ove H e had be e n o n ce w ou n ded in a drive an d

.
,

n ever w ould face the gu n s agai n A t last we set fire t o

.

th e j u ngle w hil e I a waite d him o n a tree at o ne end

, .

The r agi ng fl ames must have p assed completely over

him a nd it w a s n ot till th ey h ad nearly reache d my
,
 TH E HIGHER NAR BAD A . 34 3

p ost ,
a ndthe heat w a s ex p lodi ng th e d ried fr uits of a
Zea el t r oe l n ext to me w ith r e p o r ts like pist o l sh o ts
><
, ,

that I retreated from my p o st I ha d b a r ely re a ched .

the g r ou n d w hen I heard a shout fr o m the hea t e rs w ho ,

w ere all i n the tre es rou n d abou t th e cove r a n d th e ,

tige r b r oke o u t a mo ng them The n e nsued a d ra wi ng .

u
p o f black legs a nd a pe r fect Babel o f a b u se of his
,

remotest a n cesto r s w a s pou r ed o n him fr om the t r ees

a s b e halted belo w a n d l o o ked up at them w i t h a
,

l o ngi ng ga z e I hu r r ied rou nd b ut w a s j ust i n time

.
,

t o see hi m pause fo r a mo m e n t o n the top of a ridge ,

his g r a n d fo r m appeari n g dilated to a n u n natu r al si z e ,

fr om the b r aci ng o f the m uscles lashi ng tail a nd , ,

b ristli ng coat bathed i n the red gl o w o f the setti ng

,

s u n a n d the b l a z i ng j u ngle The n ex t i nsta nt before

.
,

my rifle c o uld he g o t to bear o n him h e plu nged do wn ,

the fa rther side a nd disappeared .

I had o ne piece of really w o n derful lu ck in this trip ,

w hich compe n sated for a good deal of he a vy faggi ng i n

vai n after t he monarch o f the j u ngle I will qu o te t he .

accou nt as w ritten at the time w hich betr a y s a n e n ,

t h u s ia s m I should scarcely be able to call up i n s u c h

a desc r iptio n n o w adays a nd w hich gives the details o f
,

a method o f hu n ti ng tigers w hich i n late r years 1

aba nd o n ed as i nvolvi ng too g r eat a risk o f huma n life ,

n amely drivi ng w i t h b eaters

,
I n such a cou nt r y as the
.

U ppe r N a r b a d a valley ho w ever th e mo r e legitimate

, ,

metho d o f stalki n g w i t h the elepha nt c o uld sc a rcely b e

follo w ed o wi ng to th e exte n t a n d de nsity o f the cover
,

a nd the a b u n da n ce o f w ater .

Three tige r s n amely a tigress a n d he r t wo n e a rl v

, ,

fu ll - gro wn cubs ha d l o ng bee n the plague o f some

,

v illages o n the ba n ks of the rive r Their dep re datio ns .

E g le nz a r nz a los .
34 4 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T R AL INDIA .

exte n de d over about fi ve m iles o f cou ntry w here they ,

fo u n d beef so ple n tiful a nd easily got tha t they seldom

w andered above that dista n ce fr om their usual hau nts ,

w hich lay i n a mesh o f most difficult ravi n es borderi ng

th e N arbad a a nd ru nni ng up to wards the hills The covert
,
.

here w a s o f the d e nsest descriptio n though thi n ner , ,

o f course at this time o f the year than at any other

, .

On my arrival in the ne ighbourhoo d I wa s immediately ,

solicited to go and rid it o f these pests and every ,

assista n ce promise d S o I pitche d my camp at th e

.

village n earest t o their haunts a n d began t o lay p lans ,

fo r the ir destru ctio n There w a s no nee d to tie animals

.

o u t as b aits for th e tigers as is so metimes do n e for here

, ,

th ey killed a c o w o r t w o every other day although food , ,

being so ple n tiful they seldom remained lo n g n ear th e

,

carcases The third eve ni ng aft er I came t wo co ws

.
,

w ere kille d about a mile from cam p I would not allo w .

th em t o b e tou che d trusti ng that havi n g eaten w ell

, ,

d uri n g the n ight the tigers w ould lie up in some p lace

,

clos e at hand t o w hic h we m ight track them next

,

morning a n d beat them o u t i n the heat o f the day

, .

W hen any tracki n g has t o be d one it is o f grea t ,

im p ortance to be at the s p ot very early in the morni ng ,

as the breezes w hich ge n erally ris e shortly after day

,

break are apt t o d estroy th e fi ne edges o f th e impressions

,
’
left a n d by ni ne o clock it is often i mpossible to tell
,

w hether the marks are o l d o r n e w W e accordi ngly .

started fo r the m urrees before daylight and ha d n o ,

difficulty in findi ng the p lace w hich w a s deeply m a rke d ,

by the feet o f b o t h tigers and co ws and a b road trail ,

led o ff in th e dire ctio n th e tigers had d ragged the

carcases Follo wing this up i t le d us shortly i nto a
.
,

ravi n e where w e fou nd th e remains o f both co ws

,

d e p osited in different narro w clefts wh ere the tigers ,

34 6 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

is n o small assista n ce to th e hu n te r at times T he .

exception is that a large male pa nther a nd a you n g

,

male tiger leave marks absolu t ely ide ntical a n d n o t to ,

b e disti n guish ed by th e best n ative trackers .

A fte r follo w i ng the easily - r ead trai l i n the sa n dy

b ot t om of the ravi ne fo r some half- mile o r so the ravi n e ,

b r a n ched off i nto t w o the mai n b r an ch l eadi ng st r aight

d o wn to the rive r a nd t he othe r a n arro w rock -
,
bou n d ,

gully striki ng o ff alm ost at right a n gl es to the left

,
.

Th e stur d y little G o nd w ho w a s the n leadi n g see m ed to

g r o w some what a n xious as w e ap pr oached the j u n ctio n ,

a n d his s w arthy cou n te n a n ce lighted u p w ith a smile

pl easa n t to see w he n he fou n d tha t a l l three tigers had

,

e n tered the gorge to the left .

“
We have them he exclaime d ; they are i n the
”
d e w u r a n d a s good as killed
,
.

D ewa r is th e local name fo r a p l ace whe r e t w o o r

th r ee n a l a s meet a n d form a h ollo w i n w hich w ater
,

remai n s througho u t th e ho t w eather ; if s ufficie n tly

shady a n d cool i t is a favourite hau n t o f t he tiger ; a nd
,

i t really seemed v ery likely that the tige r s havi ng ,

go rged themselves at night had proceed ed to lie u p i n

,

the de w ur as surmised by the G o n d To make all

,
.

s u r e w e d escribed a circle rou nd th e place carefully

, ,

exami ni ng all t he n a l a s tha t le d from i t a nd fi n di ng n o ,

m ar ks to i ndicate their exit return ed t o camp p r etty

, ,

“ ”
co nfide n t o f havi n g ri nge d the family and that ,
’
w e w ould find them asleep about t w elve o clock A .

scorchi ng h ot w i nd w a s blo wi ng fiercely ac r oss the plai n

w he n I l eft my te n t after b r eakfast a n d m ou n ted t he ,

h o wdah I t w a s fearfu lly hot a nd the fli c keri ng ha z e

.
,

t hat plays ove r th e bare g r ou n d at this season like a n ,

e xh a l a tio n o f gas fr om its surfa ce playi ng the stra nges t

,

p ra nks w i t h h ouses trees a nd fig u re s w a s exceedi ngly

, , ,
 T HE HIGHER N A R l IA D A . 34 7

pai nf u l to the eyes N ever mi nd ! a l l t he m o r e ch a nc e

.

o f fi n di ng the tige r s at home a nd w e w e r e s e e n ,

u n der w a y for the de w u r A b o ut a hu nd r ed a n d

.

fifty b eate r s had collecte d fo r t he w h o le w e a l t h o f

, ,

these peo ple lyi ng i n thei r he r ds they w e r e n a tu ,

rally a nxious for the destructio n o f the fa mil y o f

pests .

O n arrivi ng at the sce n e of ope r atio ns th e y w e r e ,

tol d o ff i nto four par ties each pla c ed u nde r ch a rge o f

,

o n e of th e m ore respecta b le i nha b ita n ts ; a n d a ft e r ,

strict i nj u n ctio ns a b out taki ng to t r ees etc w e r e d e s ,

.
,

patched to their seve r al posts The r e w e r e o nly t wo .

p laces w here the tige r s w ere likely to b r eak of w hich ,

o n e led to the river a nd the othe r a d r w ate r course

, y , ,

to w a r ds the neighb ouri n g hills S ome peculiarities i n .

the g r ou n d i nduced me to select the lat t er fo r my o wn

post Whil e I e n trusted the former to the old shik a rf
,

w ith his matchlock I got a n ex c elle nt p o sitio n in a

.

thick cove r t o f j a ma n bushes while a t the same ti me

,

e ffectually comma n di ng the pass .

H alf an h our elapsed as ag r eed o n a nd the n bu rs t

, ,

fo r t h from the he a t er s the mos t te r r ific B a bel of

b arbarou s n oises eve r heard o u t o f P a ndemo nium I .

ha d e n g a ged a ba n d that had c o me from some dis

,

ta n ce t o assist at the marriage of a w ealthy me rch a nt i n

th e v illage a nd w e w ere co nseque n tly po we r ful i n
, , ,

i nstrume n tal m usic Fa n cy d rum s g r ea t a nd sm a ll , ,

-
ear pierci ng fi fe s , r u mt o o l a hs o f d
fo midable i e
r m n i

sio ns (a hideous coppe r w i n d i n s t r ume nt i ndescri b able ,

i n simple E n glish b ut w hich I fa ncy m ust b e ide n t ical

,

w ith the
“
cholera h o rn o f S outhe r n I ndi a ) mi ngled ,

w ith a tempest of w a t c hm e n s rattles (each o f fift y

’

la n drail po w er) a nd a b u n d a ntly suppleme n ted by v o c a l

,

a b use o f the tigers a n ces t o r s to the te n th ge n e ra ti o n

’

,
34 8 T HE HIGHLAND S OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

delivere d in th e lou d es t k ey o f native B illingsgate an d ,

y o u have a faint idea of the ro w

A s they approached it o f course got more an d more

,

exciting a n d soon the various i nhabita nts o f th e d e w u r

,

began t o make their appeara n ce First came a peacock .

a nd t wo hens p atteri n g o ver the falle n leaves

,
S harper .

in eyesight than any other de nizen o f the forest they ,

soon observed me and risi ng i n a pa nic sailed o ff w it h

, , ,

their beautifu lly steady fligh t t o wards the river the ,

gorgeous p lu mage o f th e cock flashi g n i n —

the sun six
feet o f livi ng gol d a n d pur p le
A nother rustle a nd a herd o f S potte d d eer came
,

trotti ng over a little emi n e n ce ahead led by a -w ell ,

a n tlered buck w ith t wo more go od ones bri ngi ng up the

,

rear E n tirely take n up by the noise o f the he a t e r s

.
,

they n ever observe d me and p assi ng w ithi n fift ee n , ,

paces o f my elepha n t d isap p eared i n the j ungle I

, .

could have shot a ny o n e o r perhaps t wo o f th e bu cks

, , ,

but seei n g w hat wa s more i n teresti ng at the time held ,

my ha n d This w a s a troop o f baboo n s —hoary -

. bear d e d
o l d fello w s and m atrons w it h their you n g o n es i n their
,

arms —who were perche d o n the trees ahead a nd had ,

already commenced their angry w arn i ngs t hat the t ig er s

wer e t her e .

Then cam e the glorious m oment o f exci t ement

am p le re war d for days o f b ootless toil The tigress .

came sneaki ng alo ng amongst the bushes that fringed the

na l a a nd
,
halti ng about sixty paces o ff tur n ed rou n d
, ,

her head for a mome n t to w ards th e he a t er s S teady .

no w the bottom o f the n eck is expose d a n d the sight ,

o f th e big rifle bears full upon the proper s p o t B a ng .

and w ith a gu rgli n g roar over sh e rolls i nto the na l a

, .

I s it she ? o r the devil o r w hat ? C ertai nly she fell ;

,

but from the very spot she stood o n bou n ds forth the
, ,
35 0 T HE HIGHLAND S OF CE NT RAL IND IA .

an elevate d pla t eau as bare as my ha nd w hich a , ,

w o u n ded tiger w ould n ever dare to face There w a s n o .

d o u b t the r efore that she had stopped i n this gully a n d

, ,

w ould fight so I proceede d to make arra n geme nts for

,

the attack The first thi n g do n e wa s to se n d men u p

.

th e hill by a circuitous route to post themselves o n

, ,

trees all rou n d the top of the ravi ne as outlooks This , .

do n e I adva n ce d al o ng the n a la till I fou n d the bloo d

,

agai n w hich I follo w e d u p slo w ly kee p i ng a bright

, ,

lo o k -o u t ahea d The ravi ne w a s densely covere d o n

.

b oth ba nks by clumps of bamboo j u n gle a nd I had j ust ,

reached the firs t of these w he n u p j umped the tigr ess

w ith a roar a n d galloped o ff as fresh as ever to war d s
,

the head of the ravi ne ; I had t w o snap shots at he r ,

w hich made her speak still loude r but other w ise had n o ,

e ffect . The pe o pl e above n o w shoute d o u t tha t

she had agai n l a id d o wn higher u p the n al a amo ng
-
some bamboos half wa y up the banks I t w ould .

no t do to approach her in this p ositio n fro m belo w ,

as a charge w o uld probably have resulte d in a

ge n e r al roll t o the b ottom o f the ravi n e ; so w it h ,

co n side r able labou r w e clim b ed u p to th e ta b le -

,
la n d a n d ,

w e n t rou n d till w e w ere r ight above he r H ere ho w .

,

ever the ba nk w a s too stee p to a d mit of a descent ; so

, ,

getti n g a su pply o f sto n es i nto the h o wd ah I com ,

m e n c e d bombardi n g th e bamboo clum p s a n d at the ,

thi r d shot the tigress charge d o u t O n sh e came w ithi n .

t w e nty paces w he n h er heart failed her ; she turn ed

,

s harp off to the l eft a nd I got t w o pretty fair shots at

,

her w hich t old loudly bu t still she w e nt o n as st r o n g

, ,

as ever This time she crosse d quite over t o th e opposite

.

side of the ravi n e and asce nded the ba n k as if w ith th e

, ,

i n te n tio n o f bolti ng across the open grou nd Th e scouts .

kept sh outi ng o u t to me to come round w hich I d i d , ,

 TH E H G I HER NAR R A D A . 35 1

a nd fou nd them in a terrible pa nic fo r th e tig r ess seei n g , ,

th em o n the trees kept walki ng a b o u t a n d eyei ng the m

,

i n a cat - a nd -
mo u se sort o f ma nne r gro wli ng fea r fully ,

a n d lashi n g her tail a b out The first o f them I came t o

.

told me she w a s then lyi ng d o w n at the fo o t o f a t r ee

fu r t he r o n w atchi ng t w o G o nd s i n t he b r a n ches I s o o n
, .

reached the place t he w r etched G o n ds w e r e t o o m u c h

fr ighte n ed t o speak b ut poi n ted to the g r ou n d b el o w
,

the t r ee a n d s a t j a bbe ri ng l i ke mo nkeys as I a pp r o ache d

, .

I n o w made o u t the t a il of the tigress impa t ie ntly s w it c h

i ng u p a n d do w n she herself b ei ng c r ouched i n th e l o n g
grass I could n o t see he r b o d y O n perceivi ng the e le
, .

phan t sh e j u mped u p a nd maki n g a sho r t run for wa r ds

, , ,

c r ouched agai n We steadily adva n ce d a n d fi ndi ng

.
, ,

she could n o t put u s t o flight she to o k to it he r self a nd, ,

sudde n ly b o u nded agai n to wards the r avi ne I had .

a nothe r shot as sh e w a s disappeari ng over the b a nk .

This time it w a s the large rifle a nd sh e ca u ght it u nm is ,

t a k a bl y ; fo r o n comi n g to the place w he r e she had

,

vanished w e could hear h er do wn belo w g r o wli ng a nd

, ,

struggli ng o n t he grou nd The desce n t here w a s m o r e

.

g r adual though the bamboo cover wa s d r eadfully thick

,
.

Th e elepha n t w a s slidi ng do w n o n her hau n ches sto ne s ,

a n d earth rolli ng do w n b efore he r The gro w li ng g r e w .

deepe r as w e desce n ded a nd the n o ise of st r uggli ng

,

cease d as if th e tigress ha d collected he r self fo r a last

,

cha r ge The bamboo stems kept w hippi ng me i n the

.

face as I stood in th e ho wd ah with my dou b le smoo t h

bore r eady for the c o up d c g r dc c M y face w a s so o n .

covered w ith blood a nd my shooti ng- ,

j acket to r n t o
riban ds A r agi ng thirst parched my t hr e a t for I had
. ,

n o w bee n some five hours i n the s u n ; a nd my hat

havi ng bee n s w ept o ff o n fi r st e nteri ng the b am b oos its ,

rays had bee n for some time beati ng full o n my u np r o

35 2 T I LE I
H GHL AN D S OF C E N T R AL I NDIA .

-
t e e t e d s ku ll I fel t m y h ead begi n to s wim a nd th e
.
,

bam b o o s t e ms t o d a nce be fo r e m e i n a n i nd isti nc t m a z e .

l l a d i t l a s t e d mu c h l o nge r I feel cer t a in I m u st have ,

ha d a s u nst r o ke ; bu t th e l a st a c t w a s p l ayi ng out .

C r a s h w e nt th e el eph a n t i nto a d e nse c l um p o f ha m

boos ; a j ag g e d s t e m seized m e by t he n eck ; a nd a s
I ra ised my h a nd to d ise ng a ge i t th e roa r o f the tig r ess ,

b u r s t fo r t h i n m y very face ; a s tripe d fo r m rose i n th e

ce nt r e o f t he c l u m p in the a c t of bo u ndi ng o n t he el e ,

p b a n t s hea d
’
L e a n i ng ove r th e raili n g of the h o wd ah
.
,

I lev e ll e d th e g u n d o u ble -
. shotted i n both ba rr e ls a t
, ,

he r ches t ; a nd t he n ex t m o m e n t w a s s h o u ti ng o u t
F o r G o d s s a ke b ri ng tha t cla re t a n d w ate r will yo u
“ ’

, , ,

a n d co m e d o w n h a lf -a -do z e n o f y o u a nd take u p th is
, ,
”
ca r ca s e !
S o I b a g ged th e w hol e fa mily to t he n o s m a l l
.
,

d eligh t o f t he cattle - keepe r s o f t he p la c e .

A l a rg e pa nt h e r: w a s m a ki ng himse l f v ery tro u ble

s o m e a t that time i n t he n e ig h bo u r ho mJ o f the J u bbu lp ur

a nd Ma n d lft r o a d H e ha d kill e d s e vera l c hil d r e n i n

.

d i ff e r e n t vill a g es a nd p r o mise d u n l e ss s u p j n e s s e d t o
, ,
'

bec o me a regu la r m a n- eate r I e n ca m ped fo r som e d a y s .

in th e n e ig h bo u r li o o d o f h is ha u nt s a nd t he very fi rst
‘

n i g ht the vill a i n ha d t h e im pu d e n ce t o k ill a n d d r a g

a way a g o o d - s i z ed b a
g g a ge
p o ny o u t o f m
y c amp The .

n ight bei ng w a r m I wa s s le e p i ng o u t si d e fo r t he s a ke
, ,

of co o l ne s s a nd wa s a wa ke ne d by t he ri v i ng gu rgli ng
, ,

n oi s e c lo s e t o m y be d It wa s t o o d a rk t o s ee ; s o l
.

pu ll e d o u t t he rev o l v e r th a t i n th o se u ncer t a i n ti m e s ,

a l wa y s la y u n d er m y pil l o w a nd fi red o ff a c o u pl e o f ,

sh o ts to s c a re the i nt r ml e r Get t i ng a li g h t I wa s .
,

r e lieve d to fi nd i t wa s o nly th e po ny i ns t e a d o f a
.
,
.

hum a n bei ng s I ha d h a l f fe a r e d a nd w e p r ocee d ed t o

,
a ,

i nves t ig a t e t he c o nd i t i o n of t he d c e as e d e .
35 4 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

“ ’
Y es said he
,
b ut I did n t mu ch fa ncy it as i t
, ,
’
sti nks abomi n ably a nd b esides I do n t care to hav e
, , ,

m ore to do w ith g hosts tha n I c a n hel p after wha t ,

ha p pened to P a da m S i ngh Tha ki i r o f

’

With m uch p r essi ng I got him to tell m e thi s ,

“
w o n d erful tale w hich w a s much as fo llo w s :
, The
v illage o f P o n hr i about thirty coss fr om here w a s
’

, ,

hau n te d a fe w years ago by a perfect s hi t c m o f a m a n

eati ng tiger H e w a s very o ld and very cu nn i ng
. .

There were t w o gh a ts that l ed from th e village to t he

open cou n try a n d o n the hill bet w ee n thes e h e u sed to
,

live Whe n ever he s a w a ny perso n s leave the village

.
,

h e w ould rush across to the gh a t they s elected a nd ,

w aylay th em th ere ; spri ngi ng ou t w ith a r e a r a n d ,

c a rryi n g o ff o n e o f th e part y like a flash of light n i n g .

O fte n did the peopl e of the village s e e hi m thus stalki n g

some w retched traveller a nd sometimes w ere in time t o
,

w arn him to take t o a tree but still ofte n er the m o n ste r

w a s t o o cun ning for them and approached his victi m i n ,

th e stealthy m an ner only a man -eater c a n H e some .

times left his post for a fe w days an d w a s then sure to ,

b e h eard o f at some o n e of the surrou ndi ng villages at

hi s o ld tricks The road by Po nhr i w a s soon completely
.

b l ocked u p and n o o ne w ould pass that w a y although

, ,

it wa s the high - road to s everal lar ge villages The tige r .

soo n b ecam e straitened for food as hav ing becom e c o n , ,

fi r m ed i n his taste fo r hum an fl esh he could n o w c a t n o ,

oth er ; s o h e t ook to fr eque n ti ng the outskirts o f the

village a n d t w o o r three times stalked the A he ers w ho
, ,

w ere drivi ng hom e their cattle u p t o the very doo r s , .

T he b uffaloes h o w ever which you kno w d o n o t in the

, ,

leas t fea r a tiger w he n in a body al ways d iscovered him ,

a n d d rove hi m o ff before he coul d do a ny mischief .

Thus r epe a tedly ba ffl e d the man - eater conceived the

,
 TH E HIGH E R NAR BA DA . 35 5

bold idea of lyi ng in w ait for o ne of the co w herds i n his

o wn house This he did someho w ma nagi ng to smuggle
.
,

himself i n u n observed ; a nd w hen the w r etched m a n ,

aft e r secu r i ng his charge i n their shed retur n ed blithely ,

h ome to his di nner j u st as h e reached th e door fo r t h

,

spra n g the ter r i ble scou r ge o f the village a nd raci ng o ff , ,

to the hills w ith the A heer in his horrid j a ws disappeared ,

i n a n i n sta nt
I t w a s ab o u t the hou r of s u nset a nd most of th e ,

v illagers retur n ed fr om their w o r k w e r e c o llected by the

image o f M a h a deo u nder the village p ep u l t r ee d iscuss

, ,

i ng th e eve nts of the d a y A mo ngst them w a s a G o n d

.

Th a k u r named P a d a m S i ngh who had killed his tiger

, , ,

a n d w a s co n seque n tly co n sidere d the village authority

o n spo r ti n g matters H e wa s a m a n o f determi n atio n

.
,

as his after - co n duc t w ill sho w a nd at o n ce proposed

,

that they should procee d i n a body a nd rescue th e

remai ns o f their fello w-villager fro m th e m a w o f th e
spoiler A r mi ng themselves as b est they could a n d
.
,

taki n g all the drums a nd other n oisy i nstrume nts i n the

village they sallied forth a nd approached th e spot w he r e
,

the m a n - eate r had retired to devour th e A he er Bold .

a n d u n d a u n ted as the tiger is w he n himself the aggressor ,

m -
the most terrible a n eater w a n ts the courage t o sta n d
the app r oach o f a b ody of m e n like this ; so he retreated
( as
,
i n deed the
,
village r s ve r y w ell k n e w h e w ould ) .

They fo u n d the co r pse half eate n the upper half remai n ,

i ng u n touched . P a d a m S i ngh the possessor o f the o nly

,

matchlock i n the place propose d that the remai ns shoul d

,

be left u ntou ched tha t he might sit up in a t r ee a nd

, , ,

a waiti ng the retur n of the tiger rid the village for ever,
’
o f the pest . T o this the dead ma n s relatio n s yielded an
u n willi ng asse nt a n d P a d a m S i ngh wa s left to the
,

ghas t ly company o f th e corpse perch ed high o n a ,

2 A 2
35 6 T H E HIGHL A NDS OF C EN T R AL INDIA .

neighbouring tree E re lo ng the m a n -

. eater retur n e d ,

and the Th a k u r w atched his approach w ith imme n s e

satisfactio n fr om his lofty positio n The tiger approache d
.

w ithi n eighty yards or s o — thi r ty too far for a sure

aim w ith the rude matchlock The n he paused a n d to
.
,

his h o r ror th e Th a k u r s a w the mutil ated corpse slo wly

raise its right arm a nd poi nt w ith a w ar ni ng gesture a t
,

himself ! On the sig nal the man - , eater i n stan tly

disappeare d in the j u ngle T r a n s fi x e d w ith horror the
.
,

Th a k u r remai ned gl ue d t o the tree S hortly th e tiger .

agai n retur n ed an d again w a s the same mute w ar ni ng

,

give n by th e dea d m a n th e tiger d isappeari n g as b efore

, .

A bright idea n o w struck the Th a k u r who ha d s ome ,

w hat recovered his se n ses a n d cutti ng t wo sh a rp stakes

,

w ith his k nife h e slip pe d d o wn the tree and pegge d

,

both han ds o f the corpse firmly to the ground S carcely .

ha d h e regai n ed his p erch wh en th e man - eater agai n

appeared ; and co n cludi ng from th e abse n ce o f the
,

sig n al that th e d an ger no lo n ger existed procee d e d ,

quietly to resum e his horri d feast H e had buried his .

j aw s in the n eck o f th e cor p se when the matchlock o f

,

the ave nger flash e d forth its cont ents S tru ck fu ll o n .

the shoulder by th e t wo bullets w ith w hich Pa d a m

S i n gh had loade d his wea p o n th e d readed m a n -
,
eater
”
rolled over dead o n t he body o f his last v ictim .

I t is singular ho w w i d ely s p read is this superstition

regarding the malice agai nst their fe llo ws entertai n ed by
the s p irits o f persons killed by w il d beasts A ccord i ng .

t o S ir J L ubbock many other sav a ge races besi d es

.
, ,

those o f I n d ia have entertaine d it ; and it w ill b e seen

,

furth er o n that i t forms the grou nd o f a si ngular

ceremo ny amo n g the wil d By g a s o f th e Ma n dl a district .

T he pa nther o f course never came to the carcas e o f

the p ony I never s a w an animal d o so yet ; but I
.
35 8 T HE HIGHLAN D S OF CEN TR AL INDIA .

to the w il d pack actually hunti ng a n d eve n som etimes ,

killi ng tigers that it is difficult altogether to disc r edit

,

it I d o n o t believe that a n y n um b e r o f the dogs could

.

overcome a tiger in fair figh t ; b ut I thi nk it quite

possible th at they might stick to him a n d w ear him o u t ,

b y keepi ng hi m from his n atural food M a n y sto r ies .

are related o f tigers climbi ng i n to trees (w hich of c o urs e

is quite agai nst their n atu r e ) to escape from the m ; a nd
I o nce s a w the bones o f a tiger lyi ng o n a le dge o f r ock ,

w here m ore tha n o n e p erso n assured m e that they ha d

see n him l y i ng su r rou nded b y a large pack o f the w ild
d ogs .

” '

The wild dog o f this part o f I nd ia is ab out th e si z e r

of a small sette r a n d the c o lour o f the old mustard

,

breed o f terriers I n sh a pe ho w ever he is m ore vulpi ne

.
, ,

than a ny E u r o p ea n breed of dog s w ith a lo ng shar p , ,

face erect b ut n o t very lo ng o r p ointe d ears an d

, ,

slouchi n g tail n ever raise d higher th a n th e li n e o f the

back I n these resp ects h e ve r y mu ch resembles th e
.

re d pa r iahs above m e ntio n e d th e most n oticeable ,

disti n ctio n bei n g that the latter r aise their tails at times
a good d eal higher w i t h somet hi n g o f a c u r ] V ery
,
.

ofte n ho w ever a nd particularly wh e n m ovi n g fast th e

, , ,

pariahs carr y their tails j ust l ike the w ild d o g ; a nd so

close is s om etimes th e resemblance b et we en them that ,

I remember o n o n e o ccasio n n ear Ma nd l a I allo wed , ,

w hat after w ar d s proved to b e really a w ild dog to esca p e

from before my rifl e as h e trotte d across the roa d
,

before m e thi nki n g hi m t o b e o ne o f those red par iahs

,

strayed fr o m som e v illage There is o f course th e

.

conside r able disti n ctio n that the w ild dog ca nn o t b ark

, ,

w hile the tam e o ne can Bu t ho w readily th e voice o f

.

th e latter reverts to the b o wl of the w ild animal mus t

Cu o n
’

r u t z l a ns .
 TH E HIG H E R NAR B AD A . 35 9

have bee n rem a rked by every o ne who has passed by a

village w he n they cam e forth to salute him .

But to ret u r n to o u r muttons I arra nge d w ith th e .

o wn e r s o f some of these red dogs to have a mor n i ng s

'

s a mbar hu nti ng w ith them assisted by t wo capita l ,

hou nds o f my o w n S couts w ere o u t before d ay bre a k

.
,

a n d marked d o w n a herd o f ab out t w e nty s a mbar o n a

spur w hich j utted o u t i nto the p lain from the mai n

ran ge o f hills
,
This s p ur w a s covered w ith m ho w a
.

trees the decid u ous fl o w ers o f w hich hav e a stro n g

,

attractio n fo r al l sorts of deer as w ell as bears a nd ,

G o nds The fo r mer come long dista n ces at night to eat

.

the fl o wers that drop in great profusion as soo n as ripe ,

Brui n if too late fo r the feast h avi ng no o bj ectio n t o

, ,

scram b le u p a n d get some fo r himself The pla n w a s t o .

send a stro ng b ody o f beaters round t o the neck of the

s pur,
w hile w e w ere to post ourselves w ith th e d ogs
w here it e n ded i n the plai n I call it plai n b ut it w a s
.
,

s o o n ly co mparatively speaki ng Broke n and tre a ch erous .

c o tto n-soil it w a s ; i ntersected by numerou s na l a s a nd

”
,

a bout as bad ground to ride over a s could w ell he

w ished .

We w ere w e n di ng o u r wa y do w n a some wha t

r ecipitous path w ay that l ed from the vill age to the
p
sce n e o f operatio n s w hen the G o nd to w hom I w a s
,

talki n g d r opped behi nd o n s o me prete nce o r other a nd ,

shortly after wa r d s we passed o ne o f the primitive altars

they e r ect near almost every path w ay This co nsists o f .

a platfo r m o f har d mud o n wh i h are co nstructed o f

,
c
,

the same m aterial small mo d els o f the necessary im

,

l e m e nt s o f their simpl e life such as a cooki ng -place

p , ,

flat pl a te etc N ear the platform is a stake pla nted in

,
.

the grou n d from w hich proj ect t w o woode n arms drilled

, ,

w ith holes through these a peeled w an d is p asse d th e ,

36 0 T HE HIGHLANDS OF C E N T RAL INDIA .

top of w hich i s d ecorated w ith a streamer o f red cloth .

C lose by is a cair n o f sto n es to which every passer -

,
by
a d ds a n other These altars are ge n erally erected to the
.

manes o f som e o n e o f their race w ho b ore a saintly

re p utatio n d uring life and o ffe r i n gs placed o n them are
,

supp osed t o p ropitiate his spirit On this occasio n th e .

G o nd w ho had drop p ed b ehi nd and who wa s the lea d er,

and concocter o f the p rese n t hunt stopped befo r e t he ,

altar ; a n d after a prostratio n extracted from the folds

, ,

o f his w aistcloth a n d p laced o n the plate co n structed

,

fo r su ch p urposes a p eele d onion ! E a ch o f the ha n d

,

then add ed a sto n e to the h eap m uttering at th e sam e ,

tim e s omethi n g I coul d n o t make o u t an d passe d o n , .

This w a s for luck .

We soon reache d o u r station an d taking up a ,

pro p erly co n ceale d p ositio n a w aite d th e approach o f

,

the game The beaters ha d a long wa y t o go round

.
,

and w e had w aite d about a n hour w hen th eir voices

began to b e h eard as th ey advanced in a lo n g li n e that
,

stretche d completely acros s t he s p u r They w ere still .

ab ou t a q uarter o f a mile o ff when I made o u t tha t

,

som ething u n ex p ecte d h ad occurre d by their shout s ,

su d d enly ceasi n g a n d then breaking o u t into a terrifi c

,

and conce n trated yell ! B y my glass I s a w that som e

of them h ad take n to trees a n d that all w ere looking
,

d o wn t he hill -side to t he left o f the l ine A dva n cing my .

D ollond in that d irection I made o u t som e black obj ects

,

tru n dli ng d o wn the hill a n d a fe w moments aft er w ar d s

, ,

as they emerged o n the p lain I s a w that they w ere a

,

bear a n d t wo cubs they w ere m aki n g for another spur o f

the bill that r a n parallel to t he o n e w e w ere beati n g at a ,

d ista n ce o f about half a mile B et ween th em ran the d ry

.

bed of a n al a formed o f a natural paveme n t o f huge fla g

,

sto n es and stre wn with boulders that ha d been ro lle d

,
36 2 TH E HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

reached w ithin abou t t w o hu ndre d yards o f w here th e

dogs w ere co n cealed w h e n I observe d a d u n hi d e
,

g la n ce bet w een t w o b ushes a n d sho r tly after w ar d s the ,

w hol e herd o f s a mbar filed slo w ly do w n the face o f th e

hill I ndecisi o n still s wayed them a nd feari n g les t
.
, ,

they might y e t b reak back I fired off my rifle ; at the .

same time a rou n d sto n e from th e beaters rolled do w n

th e hill amo n g t hem a nd do w n they galloped st r aigh t
,

fo r th e hou n ds Th e G o nds i n their eager ness slippe d

.
, ,

their dogs too soo n a nd about half the herd b r oke back
,

throu gh t he beaters after a ll ; the res t t ook across th e

plain in the directi o n of the spur the bears had reached .

S houti ng to my m a n t o let loose the greyhou nds as ,

the d eer w ere in fu ll Vie w I started o ff at the bes t pace ,

I could muster over such grou nd H a d it n o t been fo r .

my o w n d ogs the s a mbar w oul d prob ably have reache d

,

th e hills a nd be en safe ; but as it wa s they shot ahea d , ,

of the G o n di pack a n d the s a mbar fi ndi ng they could n o t

, ,

m ake the hills turned o ff to w ards th e river

,
By c u tti ng .

o ff an a n gle here I gaine d a good deal o n the chase a n d ,

could see that my h ounds dog an d bitch w ere w ell u p , ,

.

The d o g is a heavy p o w erfu l R amp u r hou nd w hile th e

, , ,

bitch more lightly made has co n siderably th e s p eed of

, ,

him A s I came u p she m ade a galla n t r u sh at the

.
,

hi n dmost stag a nd spri ngi ng at his hocks d eer a nd

, , ,

d o g rolled over togeth er S he wante d po w er ho w ever

.
,

a nd before the dog w a s u p t o help h er the stag w a s

, ,

u p a n d p eggi ng a w ay as fast as eve r T wo or three o f .

the Go ndi dogs no w j oi ned in at a res p ec t fu l dista nce ,

but goi ng as if they mea nt somethi ng S hortly after .

w ards I came u to a dee p n a l a a nd missi ng t he pass

p ,

by w hich t he d eer a nd d ogs had crosse d lost a deal of ,

d ista n ce in tryi ng to fi n d it o u t E very where else th e .

ba nk w a s a b ou t t w e nty fee t d eep a n d nearly per ,

 TH E HIG H E R NAR BAD A . 30 3

pen dic u la r las t I.fou At

n d th e place a nd crossi ng , ,

over had the satisfaction o f fi ndi ng tha t I wa s utte rly

,

a lo n e dogs a n d dee r h avi n g d is a ppeared

,
.

I k n e w the directio n of t he rive r a nd r o d e fo r th a t , ,

b ut soo n got i nto the la by r i nt h of n a l a s tha t fri nge its

b ed a n d had the greatest difficul t y i n fo r ci ng my n a g
,

th r ough am o ngst t he bam b oos The n al a s themselves .

w e r e a pe r fect p u zz l e ; i n and ou t a n d rou n d abou t t h e y ,

t w isted like the alleys i n fair R osamo n d s bo w e r ; a n d ’

I several times fou nd myself in the place I had j us t

left A t last I got i nto th e bed of o ne of the p r i n cipa l
.

o f them that l ed straight do w n to the N a rba d a ; a n d

, ,

by d i nt of occasio nally putti n g my head u nder my

’
po n y s n eck a nd fo rci ng him th r ough the b am b oos a nd ,

here a n d the r e l eapi ng a fallen tree I soo n eme r ged o n ,

the s hi ngly ba n ks of the river a n d pu l li ng up to liste n

, , ,

I though t I heard a fai nt ye lp fa r far up the st r eam ,

.

A b r o ad b elt of sa n d a n d shi ngle i n terve ned bet w e e n

the j u n gle a nd th e shru nke n rive r alo ng w hic h I ,

g alloped for ab ou t a mile the ha

y gin of,
the dogs
b ecomi ng more a nd m ore disti n ct as I rode A fe w .

mi nu tes afte r I reached t he sce n e of c o nflic t — a shady

,

n ook of the r i v e r a r ched i n by the m assive bo u ghs of

,

t r ees i nte rs persed w it h the featheri ng stems of the

,

b am b oo A gia n t fo r est -
. tree lay felled by the b r i n k
o f th e pool w o r m- eate n a nd w a ter-
,
l o gged as if it had ,

l ai n there fo r ce n tu r ies a n d beyo n d this stood the st a g

,

at b ay chest deep i n the w ater F o u r o f the G o nd i

, .

d ogs a nd my g r eyh o u n d bitc h w e re ha y i ng hi m fr o m

the log ; a nd j ust as I ar r ived a b l ack little G rind spear ,

i n ha n d eme r ged fro m the fores t and j umped o n to th e

,

t r ee T wo or th r ee p r ods he made a t him w ith his

.

w eapon failed to rea c h him ; a nd he w a s j ust a b ou t

t o leap into th e w ater whe n th e gre y hou nd encourage d ,
36 4 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

by o u r arrival m ad e a fierce lea p at the stag falli ng

, ,

short b y about a yard o f her i n tended mark I nstantly .

th e deer bo u n ded for war d a n d w ith his fore -

,
feet stru ck
th e h ou n d u nder w ater ; b ut in s o doi n g h e forgot his
fe n ce a n d exposed his flank w ithi n striki ng distance
,

o f his hu ma n fo e The spear wa s burie d t wice in his

.

side a n d the dark w ater w a s streaked w ith crimso n as

,

the blood p oure d from th e w oun d s The p oor brute

,
.

n o w tries t o struggl e t o th e shore but i n vain ; the ,

dogs are u po n him in a b ody a n d thei r u nited w eigh t

,

bears him do wn ; a fe w m ore spear thrusts a n d t he ,

galla n t stag is bubbli ng o u t his life u n der w ater .

The distance r u n must have been about four miles ,

but I had ridde n probably d ouble that distance T he .

d ogs w ere a good deal do n e u p as the heat w a s by thi s

,

tim e treme n dous ; but a s w im i n th e river a n d half an ,

hour in the cool shade m ade th e m all right again These .

G o nd i dogs must have w o n de r ful noses to follo w deer

by sce n t ov er the b urni ng ground at full speed as they ,

are said to d o They had not mu ch trouble o n this

.

occasio n as th e greyh ou n d bitch ha d n ever lost sight

,

o f the stag to the fi n ish and cut o u t the w ork fo r the

,

others .

A t other times I hav e had excellent s p ort w ith th e

fi n e breed o f dogs possesse d by th e B a nj a r a carriers
referred to i n a former chapter I f the w ild d o g w ere .

avail abl e t o bree d from a still better hound for s a mbar

,

hu n ti ng might probably be obtai n e d With m ore .

regular orga nisation better dogs a n d more s p ortsme n

, , ,

s a mbar - hu n ti n g in this cou n try might give admirable

spo r t The best breed if th e w ild d o g is as is pro
.
, ,

ba b le unavailabl e w ould b e the cross bet w een the

, ,

S cotch deerhou n d and the Ba nj a r a dog th e former ,

being the mother Pu p s o f a Ba nj a r a bitch almo s t

.
 36 6 T HE HIGHLAND S OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

a nd t he ir
'

ro a d
escap e is cut o ff A s a rule in
of .
,

fr eque nted parts they do not co m e o u t o f their midday

,

ret r eats i n caves a nd de n se thickets u ntil nightfall ;

, ,

but i n remoter t r acts they may be met w ith i n the

, ,
.

m iddle o f th e d a y I w a s o n ce charged by four bear s

.

a ll at o n ce w hich I had com e upo n n ear the high -

,
road
bet w ee n J u bbu l pur a nd D amoh feedi ng u n der a m ho w a ,

tree I had t wo gu n s a nd hit three o f them bu t had

.
,

t o bolt fr om the fou r th w ho chased me about a h u n dred ,

y ards a n d the n dive d i nt o a ravi ne

,
R etur ni n g to the .

sce n e o f actio n I fou n d o n e sitti ng at th e foot o f a tree

, ,

b e wa ili n g his fat e i n m ost m ela n ch oly w hi nes a n d ,

fi nished him w ith a ball i n the ear The o t her t w o .

ha d go n e do wn the slope o f a hill a n d I started o ff ,

to head them The grou n d wa s rocky a nd very

.

slippery a nd I had n o t go n e far w h e n I fell my rifle

, ,

slidi ng a w ay do wn the hill to th e co nsi derable d amage ,

o f its stock a nd ba rr els I p ic ke d myself u p ho w ever .

, ,

a n d by di n t o f hard ru n ni n g arrived above a nd parallel ,

t o th e bears and comme n ced a ru nn i ng fight w ith them

, ,

i n w hich my ch a n ces w oul d have b een a good d eal

better had I had a breech i nstead o f a mu zz le -
, loader .

A s it w a s I had to keep o ne barrel u n fi re d in case o f

,

a charge a nd peg a way at lo ng i nter vals w i t h the

,

o ther A t l a st o ne o f them came rou n d up the hill

.
,

at m e risi ng o n his hi nd -legs p ulli ng do wn bra n ches

, , ,

a n d d a n cing a n d splutteri ng i n so l u dic r ous a ma nn er ,

that I could scarcely shoot for laughter Whe n I did .

,

h e got both bar r els through th e chest a n d s u bside d , .

I n e ver got the othe r as i t had su ffi cie n t head way t o ,

escape i nto som e hollo w rocks n ear the river -side A .

w o u n ded bea r wil l ofte n charge w ith great determi na

ti o n H e co mes o n like a g r eat ca nn o n -
. ball ; a nd th e
p o pular idea that he w ill rise o n his hi nd -
,
legs in
 TH E HIGH E R NAR B AD A . 36 7
'

time to give a shot at the ho “

mark o n his r -
se shoe
chest t o pe n etrate w hich is fatal is as a rule a mis
, , , ,

t a ke But a shot w he n he is t e n o r fift ee n yards off

.
, ,

w ill nearly al w a y s tu r n if it d oes n o t kill him

,
The .

m ost successful w a y of getti ng bears is to get u p very

ea r ly a n d go u p t o some com m a nd i ng positio n that
, ,

overlooks t he path w ays taken b y th e a nimals o n thei r

retur n fr om th e l o w g r ou nd w he r e they go nightly to
,

fee d They c a n then either be i ntercepted o r marked

.
,

i nto s ome cover a nd afte r wards beate n o u t I t is a

,
.

sport o f w hich a little is g r eat fu n ; but o n e soo n tires

o f it the a n imals bei n g ge n erally s o easily killed a nd
, ,

fur n ishi n g n either trophy (a n I ndia n bear ski n bei ng a

poor affai r ) n o r food M ost sportsme n er e l o ng come
.

to ag r ee w ith the n atives a n d let the é d a m- z d d alo n e

, ,

except w h e n they tu r n u p b y accide nt .

I t w a s i n these j u ngles that I fi r st s a w the great

r o c k pytho n o f I n dia w hich is th e subj ect o f so ma n y
,

w o n de r ful tales . I w a s follo w i ng the track o f a

w ou n ded deer a n d
,
the day be i ng v ery hot had
, ,

m ou n ted my h orse a chestnut A r ab fr om w hich I

, ,

could shoot carryi ng a rifle The h orse almost t r od

,
.

u p o n him lyi ng o n a n arro w path w ay a nd sta r ted

, ,

b a ck w ith a s n o r t as the great s nake slo w ly t wisted

,

hi mself off the road a n d do wn the slope of the hill

, ,

alo n g w hich it w ou n d A loud rustli ng a nd here a n d

.
,

there the w ave o f a fold in the g ra ss told m e that ,

somethi n g w a s mo vi ng do w n the b a nk a n d I forced ,

the ho r se aft er it v ery u n willi ngly o n his part till

, ,

w ith a loud hiss a n d a s w ish of his fo lds the serpe nt

, ,

gath ered himself i n to a great coil j ust under the ho r se s ,

’

n ose . A very u npleasa n t sou n d like the boili ng o f ,

a big kettle ca me from the gatheri ng pyramid of coils

, ,

a nd I lost no time in l ea ni ng over a nd firi ng bot h

36 8 T HE HIGHLANDS OF C E N T RAL INDIA .

barrels o f the rifl e into the mass at th e same ti me ,

d ra wi ng the horse back to th e path w ay as I d i d not ,

kno w the customer I had t o deal w ith The snake .

m ade o ff do w n the hill a n d my h orse refuse d t o follo w

, ,

so that before I coul d dismou nt a n d get do wn o n foot

, ,

a l l trace o f him w a s lost I wa s taken by surprise o r

.
,

shoul d p erhaps have made a b etter busi n ess o f it My .

im p ression wa s that the creature wa s ab out t w enty - fi ve

feet l o ng o f a lea d en colour an d abou t as thick as a
, ,

large m an s thigh I have seen o ne kille d in th e sam e

’
.

j ungles w hich m easure d sixteen feet in length They

, .

a r e o f a very sluggish d is p osition a nd d o not molest ,

ma n . The stories o f their s wallo wing s p otte d d eer

w hole antl ers a n d all I b elieve to be utter myths
, , .

H ORNS ED D E E R ( o ne—
or S P OT T . S ca l e, tenth .
)
37 0 TH E HIGHLANDS OF C E N T RAL INDIA .

The elevate d cradle o f th e i n fa nt N arba d a thus ,

d esc r ibe d co n tains w ithi n its outer circle o f hills a n

,

area o f not l ess t han square miles ; much o f it o f ,

cou r se Of a broke n a n d u n cultu r able character bu t

, ,

com p risi n g also i n the valleys m uch Of w hat m ay

prope r l y b e calle d vi rgi n s o il o f the fi n est quality The .

S AL F O RE S T S lN T HE H AL O N V A L E Y
L .

Myka t r a n ge and th e radiati n g spurs w hich s eparate

,

t h e plateau are mostly c l othe d w it h forests Of the s ai l

,

t r ee w hich here as else w here almost m o n opolises

, , ,

th e p a rts w here it gro ws The s a j alo n e gro w s i n a ny

.

quan tity alo n g w ith it S o m e Of th e hills a r e covered

.

w ith the ordi n ary species o f forest trees of other parts

th e species o f vegetation appear i ng as I have said ,

befo re t o depe n d m uch o n the geological formatio n

, .
 TH E S AL FORE S T S . 37 1

Th e vall eys themselves are generally o p en and free

from all un d erw oo d d o tte d here an d there by belts and
,

islan d s o f the nobl e s a l tree and altogether p ossess

,

ing m uch o f the character ascribed to the A merican

p rairies I n their l o w est parts th e soil is dee p black
.
, ,

a n d rich covere d w ith a gro w th o f stro n g t a ll grasses

, .

A s th e valleys merge i n to th e hilly ranges th e soils ,

become lighter a n d redder from the lateriti c to p pi ng

,

that here overlies the b a saltic and granitic bases of

th e hills ; the grasse s are less rank a nd coarse ; a n d
i n ma n y p laces spri n gs o f clear cold w ater bubble u p ,

clothi ng th e cou ntry w ith belts o f p er p etual verdure ,

and co nferring o n i t a n as p ect o f freshness very r e~

m arkable i n a cou n try Of suc h com p aratively small
el evatio n in th e ce n tre of I ndia E verything combi n es
.

to d ep r ive this regio n o f the sterile and inhospitable

appearance w orn by eve n m ost uplan d tracts duri ng
th e hot seaso n The s a l tree is almost th e o n ly ever
.

g r ee n forest tre e in I ndia Throughout th e s ummer

.

its glossy d ark -green foli a ge reflects the light i n a

thousa n d vivid ti nts ; ands j us t w he n all oth er veg s
t a t io n is at its w orst a fe w w e eks before the gates
,

o f heave n are ope n ed in the an n ual mons oon the s ai l ,

selects its opportu n ity of bu r sti ng into a fresh gar me nt

o f t he brightest a n d s oftest green The traveller w ho .

has li ngere d till that late p eriod in these w il d s is

charmed by the approach o f a secon d spri ng a n d it ,

requires n o slight effort to beli eve himself still in a

tropical cou n try The atmosphere ha s been kept humi d
.

by the m oisture from the broad sheets o f w ater retained

by the uplan d streams w hich d escen d s nightly in de w s
,

o n the o p e n valleys The Old grasses o f the p rairie

.

h ave been burnt in the a nn u al c o nfla g r a t io ns an d a ,

covering o f young ver d ure has taken their p l ace NOW .

2 B 2
 37 2 T H E HIGHLANDS OF C E N T RAL INDIA .

an d then the familiar note o f the cuck oo (i d entical *

w ith the E uro p ean bird) and th e voices Of m a ny birds

, ,

includi ng th e d ee p m usical coo Of th e grand imperial

pigeo n h e ighten the del usion
, But fo r th e bamb o o
.

thickets o n th e h igh er hills w h os e light feathery foliage

,

beautifully su pp lements th e h eavier masses o f the s a l

that cli n g t o their skirts the sce n e w o uld prese n t
,

nothing p eculiar t o the lan d sca p e o f a tropical country .

The climate Of t hese u p lands is very temperate fo r

this p art o f I n d ia sho w i n g a m ean o f about 7 7 d egrees
,

o f th e thermom eter d uri n g the hot s eason The varia .

tion bet wee n th e tem p erature o f day an d night is ,

ho w ever co n siderabl e ra ngi n g from abou t 5 0 degrees

, ,

t o 1 0 0 degrees as extremes d uri n g the hot season

u n d er canvas .I t w oul d Of course b e m uch more
equable in a h ouse a nd the range is also far l ess o n
,

the higher p lateau x than in the l o w er valleys In .

the cold season (w hich corres p o n d s t o o u r w inter) i t

n n -
generally d esce d s at night t o freezi g p oi nt i n t he
Open a ir risi n g in a t e n t no high er tha n 6 5 d egree s
,

o r 7 0 degrees in the mid d le o f the d ay .

Th e cou n try can scarcely be said t o b e p opulate d

at all exce p t w ithin a short d istance o f Mandl a itself
, ,

w here th e rich soil has been cultivate d by an outlyi ng

colony o f H ind u s from the L o w er N arba d a valley .

Mandl a w a s at o ne time th e seat o f o ne o f the G o n d ~

Raj p u t ruling dynasties and the remains o f th eir forts
,

and other b uil d i ngs still cro w n i n cru mbli n g d ecay the
t o p o f many a forest - covere d m ound .

The G o nds are here a very poor a nd s u b du e d race ,

long si nce w eane d from their wild n otions o f freed om ,

w ith its attendant har d ships and seclusion ; bu t still

u nreached by th e i nfluenc e Of the general a d vancement

Cu c u l u s ca nor u s .
37 4 T HE HIGHLANDS OF C EN T R A L INDIA .

clearing on the mountain - side pitch ing his nea t habi

,

i
ta t o n Of bamboo w icker -w ork like an e a gl e s eyrie o n
,
’

some hill - to p o r ledge o f rock far a b ove the valley s,

p e netrate d by p ath w ays an d ekes o u t the fruits o f the

earth by an u nw earying p ursuit Of game Full o f .

courage an d accu stome d t o de p en d o n each other they

, ,

hesitate not t o attack every animal o f the forest in ,

clu d i ng the tiger himsel f They p ossess a m ost dea d ly

.

p oison w here w ith they t ip their little a rro w s o f reed ;

and th e most p o n d erous beast seldom goes more tha n a
mile a fter bei ng pierced w ith o ne o f these without
, ,

falli ng The poiso n is not a n in d ige n ous o ne b ut is

.
,

brought a n d sol d to them by the t raders who pe netrate

these w ilds t o traffic i n forest p ro d uce I believe it .

to b e an extract Of the root Of A co ni t u m fer ox w hich ,

is u sed for a similar purpose by som e o f the trib es of

the eastern H imal a y a The fl esh is discoloured and
.

s p oilt fo r some dista nce round the w oun d This is cut .

ou t , and the rest Of the carcase is hel d to be w holesome

food Their b o w s are m ad e entirely o f the bambo o
.
,
“ ”
string and all ; they are very neat a nd possess ,

wo nd e r fu l p o w er for th eir si z e A good shot amo ng .

them w ill strike the cro w n o f a hat at fift y yards .

Their arro ws are o f t wo s orts ; those for or d i n ary u s e

bei ng tip p e d w ith a pl ain iron hea d and feathere d ,

from the w i n g o f the p ea fo w l w hile those inte nd ed fo r

,

p oiso n i ng an d d ea d ly w ork have a loose h ead rou n d ,

w hich the poison is w ra p ped an d which remains in t he

,

w ou nd The se p ois oned arro ws are altogether r e mark

.

ably similar to those use d by the B ushmen o f S outh

A fr ica Their axes are als o o f t w o sorts - o ne like t he
.
,

ordi n ary axes Of the G o nds for cutti ng w oo d and t he

, ,

other a much more formidable impleme n t called a

, ,

t o ng i d w ith a lo ng semicirc u lar blade like an ancien t

,
 TH E S AL FOR ES T S . 37 5

battle - axe in mi niature A ll t he iron for th ese w ea p ons

.
,

a nd for their agricultural i n str u me nts is forged from the

,

n ative o r e Of the hills by a class called A u r ia s who

g , ,

see m to be a sectio n o f the G o nds A By g a has been .

k n o wn to attack an d destroy a tiger w it h n o other

w eapon than his axe This little w eapon i s a lso us ed
.

as a p roj ectile a nd the By g a w ill thus knock over hares

, ,

p eafo wl etc w ith asto nishi ng skil l

, .
, .

Though thus seclu d ed in the w ilderness the Man dl a ,

By g a is by n o means extremely shy a nd w ill p l acidly ,

go o n cutti ng his d hy a w hile a trai n Of stra ngers

is passi n g him w hen a w ild G o nd o r Kork u w ould
,

h ave aba n do n ed all a n d fle d to the fores t They are .

truthful and honest almost t o a fault bei ng terribly ,

cheated i n co nsequence i n their deali ngs w i t h the

traders ; a nd they possess the patriarchal for m o f self
gover n ment still so perfectly that n early all their dis ,

p utes are settled by the elders w ithout appeal though ,

these o f course u nder o u r alie n system possess no legal

, , ,

authority S erious crime amo ng them is almost u nhear d

.

of. The strangest thi ng about them is that thoug h ,

other wise certai nly the w ildest o f all these races they ,

have no aborigi n al langu a ge o f their o wn speaki ng a ,

rude d ialect o f which almost every word c a n be traced

to the H i ndi They can also commu nicate with the
.

G o nds in their language though they do n o t use i t ,

amo ng themselves A similar case is that O f the Bheel s

.
,

in the wes t ern co nti nuation o f thes e hills who though , ,

also ext r emely wil d have n o peculiar lang u age o f their

,

o wn and ne v er have had so far as history informs us

, ,
.

There are ma n y poi nts o f resemblan ce bet ween the

Byg a s a n d th e Bhe el s a n d there seems to be n o evi
,

de n ce to con n ect either with the Kol arian or the D ra

v i d ian families Of aborigines F u rther i nquiry may .
37 6 T HE H IGHLANDS OF C E N TRA L INDIA .

sho w them to be remna n ts of a race anterior in point

o f time to both a n d from w hich the H i n d i may have
,

borro w ed its numerous non - S a n scrit vocables We .

k n o w that at an early p e r iod i n H i n d u histo r y Bhe els

, ,

held the cou ntry u p to the river Jam na w hich they d o ,

not n o w a pproach w ithin ma n y hu ndre d mi les .

There is every reaso n to b elieve that thes e By g a s

are if n o t autochtho n ous at least the predecessors Of
, ,

t he Go nds in this par t Of th e hills They co nsider the m .

selves and are allo w e d t o be su perior to the G o n ds

, , ,

w ho may not eat w ith them a n d w ho take their p r iests ,

o f th e m ysteries o r m e d ici n e -
m en from amo ng them
, , .

Theirs it is t o hold co n verse w it h the w o r l d Of spirits ,

w h o are ever y w here prese n t t o a b o r igi n al su p erstition ;

thei rs it is t o cas t ome n s to compel t he rai n to char m
, ,

a way the tiger o r disease The By g a medici ne - . m a n fully

looks h is character H e is tall t hi n a nd cadaverous
.
, , ,

abstraction and m y stery residi n g in his hollo w eyes .

W hen w a nte d he has t o be se n t for t o som e distant

,

h au nt o f g nomes and spirits a nd comes wi t h charms an d ,

s i m pl es slu n g i n th e hollo w o f a bottle - gourd A gr e a t .

n ecklace fashioned w ith m uch carvi ng fro m the ke r n els

,

Of forest fruits m arks his h oly calli ng

,
.

Th e By g a charmer s most d a ngerou s d u ty is that o f

’

lay ing the s p i r i t o f a m a n who has b een killed b y a

tiger . Ma n -eaters have al w a ys been n u mero u s in
Ma n dl a th e prese n ce duri n g a p a rt o f every y ear o f
,

l arge her d s Of cat t l e fo s t e r i ng the bree d while their ,

w ithdra wal at other times to r egions w h ere th e tigers

ca nn ot follo w causes temporary s carcity o f food t o o ,

easily relieve d in the a b u nda n t tall grass cover by

recou r se t o the killi ng of m a n ; t he d e sultory ha b its o f
the wild pe o ple a n d the n u mbe r s o f travellers who t a ke
,

this sho rt r o ute be t w ee n t he N arbad a valley a nd the

37 8 T HE HIGH LANDS OF C E N T R A L INDIA .

th e w aste a nd to Mother E arth who is their tribal go d

, , .

O ne o f their tribal names is B h u mi a m eani ng p eo pl e ,

”
o f the s oil an d it is curious that amo ng every a bo
,

rigi n al tribe o f th ese hills inclu di ng th e Bheels the

, ,

priests o r m e d icine -
m e n are calle d by the sam e nam e .

The rite o f c harmi n g th e souls of d eceased p ersons into

some material obj ect before d escri bed and w hich seems
, ,

p eculiar t o these hills is practis ed also by these By g a s

,
.

A male By g a is easily disti nguishe d from a G o n d

bu t their wom en are scarcely in any res p ect differe nt
perha p s a little blacker but d ressi ng i n a similar ma n ner
, ,

w earing th e sam e ornam e n ts (i n cluding a chignon o f

’
goat s hair) a nd like them also tattooed as to the legs
, , ,
.

Though the By g a s a r e like the Bheels less given t o

, ,

co n gregate together i n large v illages than som e othe r

tribes Often i n deed living in e ntirely d etach e d d welli ngs
, ,

there are a good ma ny villages o f a considerable nu mber

o f houses These are arran ge d w ith m uch neatness in
.

the form o f a squ are and th e whol e p lace is ke p t very

,

c l ea n .

The By g a is th e most terribl e enemy t o th e forest s

w e have any w here in th ese hills Th ousan d s Of square .

miles of s a l forest have been cl ea n d estroye d by them in

the prog r ess Of their d hy a cultivation the grou n d being ,

after wards occupie d by a d ens e scrub o f l o w s a l b u shes

spri ngi ng fro m the stumps I n a dd i t ion t o this the .
,

largest trees h ave every wh ere been girdle d by them to

allo w the g u m resin o f the s a l (the d am mer of commerce )
t o exude .

The dammer resin calle d here dhék is exte nsively

, ,

u sed as a pitch in dockyards a n d fo r coating commercial,

packages I t is extracted by cutti n g a ri ng o f bark o u t

.
.

Of the tree three o r four feet from the gro u nd when the ,

gu m exudes i n large b ubbles S everal half-circles are .

,
 TH E S AL FORE S T S . 37 9

h o wever e q ually effective an d do not d estroy the life Of

, ,

th e tree like the former metho d The ri ngi ng o f s a l

, .

trees has n o w b ee n entirel y prohibite d withi n o u r terri

tories ; but I d o n o t think that a ny more eco n omical
metho d has as yet b een substitute d the vast area o f s a l ,

in native states bei n g su ffi cie nt to supply the prese n t

w a n ts o f the trade . The dammer is collected a nd , ,

together w ith lac d y e is excha nged for salt beads an d

, , ,

arr o w-poison brought by peripatetic traders with pack

,

bullocks w ho a nn u ally visi t their wilds for th e purpose

, .

This may be said to b e the o nly commercial transactio n

o f the By a i n the w ho l e year H e rarely visi t s th e
g .

l o w-country markets like the other tri bes a nd has

, ,

scarcely a kno wledge of coi ne d mo n ey .

For t u n ately -the s a l tree u n like the teak is pos

, ,

s essed Of a m ost i n exti nguishable re p ro d uctive po we r ,

the seeds bei ng shed by e very mature tree in millio ns ,

and ready to germinate at once in a favourable positio n .

The seedli ngs shoot rapidly above th e da nger of j u ng le

fi res an d gro w straight a nd tall before bra nchi ng out
,
.

The timber Of th e s a l if i n ferior t o the teak for some

,

purposes such as ca r pentry an d tra nsverse beams is

, ,

su p erior fo r others such as wheel -

,
w ork a n d uprights ,

its straight firm grai n givi ng it immense po wer O f

,

resistan ce t o crushi ng I t is al most the o nly timber

.

tree o f U pper I n di a w here teak is u nk no wn

,
The .

un limited w ater -po wer o f these rivers w ill supply

the means o f co nverti ng it o n th e spot ; a n d the
N arbad a w ill form a high w ay for floati ng it to the ope n
valley S a l will n o t s wim by itself u ntil seaso ne d for
.
,

several years ; but the hills prod u ce a n u nli mited

quantity Of th e fi nest bamboos a b u n dle Of w hich tied ,

round a log w ill support it a nd w hich are themsel ves of

,

the highest economic value A t p resent these fores t s .

38 0 T H E HIGHLAND S OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

have scarcely been d ra w n o n fo r the su pp ly o f timber ,

bei ng dista n t fr om th e N a r bad a some thirty o r forty

miles w ithout a roa d capable o f co n veyi ng h eavy
,

timber . I have alrea dy remarked o n the a p peara n ce

o f th e s a l tree S i n gly it is a littl e formal in outli ne
.
,

t hough possessi n g a fi n e fi r m aspect fr o m its horizontal

,

b r a n chi ng brigh t evergreen l eaves like broad la n ce

,

heads a nd straight ta p eri n g stem c overe d wit h gray

, ,

a nd d eeply - fissure d bark I t s g r eat cha r m ho w ever

.
, ,

resides in the fr esh cool as p ect o f the masses a n d b elts

,

i n w hich it chie fly gro ws .

Besides the da m mer resi n O f t he s ai l s everal o t her ,

ki n ds o f mi nor forest pro d u ce are collected here as i n ,

other t r acts fo r sal e t o the trade r s Of the plai ns S ome

,
.

o f thes e have already bee n me n tione d A n other is the

.

c -
sti k lac o f commerce which is deposited by a n insect
,

o n the smalle r t w igs o f s everal species o f trees amo n g ,

w hich B u t ett f r o n d o s a S c hlei c he r a t r ij a y a and Z iz yp hu s

, ,

j ju u ba a r e the pri n ci p al The t w igs

. are broken O ff a n d ,

sold as they sta nd looki ng like pieces Of very dark re d

,

coral A bout t we n t y p ou nd s will be procure d a n nually

.

fr om a tre e so l o n g as a ny o f the i n sects are left o n it

,

t o breed But j u st as ofte n as n o t the improvide nt

.

wild man will cu t do w n the w hol e tree to save himself

th e troubl e O f climbi ng Th e i nbor n d estructiveness o f
.

these j u ngle peopl e to tre es is certai nly very extra

o rdi n ary ; even w here i t is clea rly agai nst their o wn
inte r es t they ca nn ot a pparently refr a i n fro m d oi n g
,

w a n to n i nj ury A GOn d o r By g a passi ng alo ng a

.

path wa y will al mos t certai nly a nd a pparently u nco n ,

s c io u s l d r op his a x e fr om th e should e r on a n you ng

y , y
sapli n g tha t may b e gr o wi ng by i t s side a n d almos t ,

eve r y w here y ou ng trees s o situate d w ill b e fo u n d cut

half through i n this m a nner The stick - . lac is manu
38 2 T HE H IGHLAND S OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

t hey a ffor d for cou ntless herds o f cattle annually ,

b rought to them from great d istances in the Open

c ou n try o n both sides duri n g the hot season Fine .

g rass a nd a b u n d ance Of sha d e a n d w ater make this

o n e of t he fi n es t gr a zi n g cou n t r ies in all I n dia a nd ,

the amou n t o f w eal t h w hich t hus actually seems to

depe nd o n its co nt i nua n ce as a w aste is very great .

A t first sight some hesitatio n might be felt at the

r n -
p r ospect of these gr eat g azi g g r ou n ds being reclaimed
fo r cultivatio n w he n it is co sidere d
,
n h o w -
all esse n tial
to the life o f a cou ntry like I n dia is the bree ding O f
l a rge stocks of oxe n H ere th e draught ox takes th e
.

place of the farm -ho r se a nd the steam -e n gine of E ngla n d .

C attle are b r e d n o t as a n article o f food but as afford

, ,

i ng pe r haps th e o nl y descriptio n o f po wer by w hich

t he operatio n s of a griculture could be performed at
a ll .H orses could n o t take their place i n conver t i ng
the h a r d bu r nt - u
p ,
soils u nder the blazi n g sun o f the
,

seaso n w he n ploughi ng a nd s e w ing the autum n crop

,

go es o n n o r so far as w e k n o w the resources o f the

, ,

la nd c o uld ste a m po wer even if otherw ise sui t able

, , ,

fi nd su ffi cie n t fuel at a nythi n g l ike a m oderate cost .

Thus i t m a y n o t have b een w ith out a teachi ng o f far

s eei ng policy th at the H i nd u has been prohibited by

his religi o n fr om co nverti n g th e race o f horne d cattle

t o the purposes Of foo d I t may be tru e that the
.

r igid p r ohi b itio n a gai n st tou chi n g the carcases o f su ch

a nim a ls o r i n a ny w a y t ra ffi cki ng in their death m a y

,
,

hav e excluded the H i n d u cattle -o w n er from much

legitimate p r ofi t in the w a y of leath er horn tallo w , , ,

glue etc ; b ut i t is impossi bl e t o d r a w fi ne shades

,
.

o f disti nctio n i n re ligi o us sa n ctio n s a n d if a s is p r o

, ,

ba b le t he slaughte r O f cattle useful for the plough

,

could not be othe r wise p r e vented then th e s a n c t ifi ca t i o n

,
 TH E S AL FORE S T S . 333

o fthe animal from a ll such u ses w a s p robably a measure

o f the highest policy E v en looked on as a n article
.

o f foo d, it is p robable that th e sacre d n ess of the c o w

has b een produ ctive o f more gai n than loss m ilk an d ,

butter bei ng much m ore w h olesome articles o f diet

th an beef in a ho t climate C ertai nly a ny measure.
,

w hich w ould be likely t o e nd a n ger the existi ng supply

of plo u gh -
cattle w ou ld be highly Obj ectio n able But .

I think that n o ap p rehe n sion o f the sort need be e nter

t a in e d from the probable reclamatio n o f such tracts
a s th e M a n d l a sava nn ahs S ufficie n t forest l a n d m ust
.

a l way s remai n in the h igher regio n s to fur n ish the

r ee n bite at the e n d o f the hot seaso n w hich is all
g ,

t hat is n ecessary to tide the herds over the most t ryi n g

art of the year a n d for th e rest the p eo p l e w ill soon

p , , ,

lear n to do as Othe r cou n t r ies h ave d o n e a n d as other ,

p arts o f I ndia eve n have done n amely devote a par t, ,

o f the cultivated area t o th e raisi n g Of gree n pasture

,

by irr igatio n for t he cattle This fi n e n atural pasture

, .

is n o doubt a great advantage ; but it is not at a ll

i ndisp e n sable even i n I ndia .

The resources o f the country in iro n a nd o t her

m i neral w ealth have n ever bee n fully exa m i n e d tho u gh ,

it is evide n t o n th e su r face tha t th ey are abunda n t .

G old is w ashed o u t of the sands o f more than o n e o f

the streams in small quantit ies h o w ever which barely
, , ,

repay the lab our and it is p r obable that its l odes are
,

bu r ied i n the quar tz o f the p r imitive rocks deep belo w

th e flo w Of volcan ic material that has overlaid them .

I n the m atter o f climate like all u ncleared regions

,

in this latitude at so l o w an el evatio n the tract is ,

subj ect t o m alarious fever duri ng the m onths o f O ctober

to Jan u a ry But ex p erie n ce sho ws that this i nflu e nce
.

l asts only so l o ng as the country continu es uncleared .

38 4 T HE HIGHLANDS OF C E NT RAL I ND IA .

It is p ro b a b le that the L o w er N arba da valley w a s equally

u nhealthy at o n e tim e yet i t is n o w as h ealthy as a ny
,

p a r t O f the cou nt r y S everal statio ns in these provi n ce s

.

have bee n set do wn i n th e middle o f j u ngles w ith as

evil a reputatio n as this a n d alo n g w ith the cleara n ce
,

of the j u ngle th e fever w a s fou nd to disappear The .

W y n a a d A ss a m a n d C achar are als o sta n di ng i nstance s

'

, ,

of the successful occupatio n Of m alariou s countries by

the help o f E uropean e nterprise The malaria excepted
.
,

the climate is highly favou r able t o colo nisation co nsider ,

i ng the situation o f the tract N o regio n o u t o f th e

.

great m ou n tai n ra nges could probably be poi nted to as

possessi ng su c h adva n tages of cool ness and fresh n ess as
a r e here co n fe rr e d by the el evated situ atio n abu n da n ce ,

of moistu r e a nd its atte nda nt evergreen verdure

,
.

A s fo r the Obstacles supposed to b e pres e n ted by th e

ra n k vegetation a n d n oxiou s a n imals they are chiefly ,

im a gi n ar y I mme n se plai ns lie ready for the p lough if

.
,

merely the coa r se natural g r asses w ere cleared a w ay ,

the r e b ei ng no brush woo d o r heavy ti mbe r to speak o f .

The luxurian ce o f these grasses is o nly evi d e n ce Of the

fat ness o f the la n d that lies belo w ; a n d a torch applie d
in the m o n th of M ay w ill over large tracts remove all
, ,

o bstacle to th e imm ediate application o f the pl ough .

The w ild a nimals here as else w here w oul d retire before

, ,

the axe a nd plough o f the sett l er S u ch as are n oxious

.

to human life are n o t really more so here tha n i n many

o ther much mo r e open pa r ts o f th e cou n try I n the .

districts O f D e nt and B e t u l there is certai nly a larger

n um b er o f tige r s in the sam e area tha n in Ma n dl a and ,

the re they have n o t bee n fou n d to co n stitute a ny

se r i o us o b stacl e t o th e steady advancement o f p o p u l a
t io n a n d tillage .

I am n o t o ne o f those w ho b elieve that E uropeans

38 6 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T R AL INDIA .

W y na a d such articles ,
of E uropean demand as coffee ,

tea etc have attracted E uropean e nt erprise a n d where

,
.
, ,

similar w ages have been h eld out a n a b u n da nt supply ,

o f l abou r has bee n fur nished by these fou ntai ns o f

populatio n Wh at appear s to b e n ecessa ry the n t o
.
, ,

effect the rapid reclamatio n of these w ilds is the i ntro ,

d uction O f s ome special i ndustry w hich w ill attract th e

E uropean e n e rgy a nd c a pital w hich al o n e c a n eve r effec t
the moveme n t Of I ndia n labour in large bodies fro m one
part of the cou ntry to a n other That there are s u ch .

i ndustries capab le o f i nt r oductio n there cannot b e a

doubt .

At prese n t cattl e -
breedi ng w o ul d se em to b e th e
most promisi n g o pe n i ng both b ecau se it w ants the
,

fe w est h a nds a nd because th e absence o f roads is o f

,

l ess co nsequ e n ce i n su ch a busi n ess .

Before leavi ng th e subj ec t o f these waste lan d s I ,

should refer to the o n ly attempt ever ma d e to form

a s ettlement i n them u n de r E urope a n supervision and ,

w hich en d ed i n lame n table failure S ome thirty years

.

ago four G erma n missiona r ies attempte d to form a

colo ny amo ng the abo r igi nal tribes o n the Moravian ,

system i n o ne O f these upland valleys They selecte d a

, .

spot j ust u nder the A m a r k a nt a l s plateau n ear a s mall ,

v illage called K a r i nj e a in the mi d dle O f a fi n e plai n

,

o f rich soil a fe w miles south Of the N arba da The

,
.

place had a n elevatio n of about feet a nd wa s ,

w ell situated i n every respect b ut o n e I n a cou ntry .

abou n di ng w ith sh ade an d w ater they pitched o n a bare

,

mou nd w ithout a n eve r g r ee n tree a nd m ore than t w o ,

m iles d ist a n t fro m th e n earest ru nni ng w ater They .

w e n t out i n the hot w eath e r and failed to prepare

,

suffi cie n t sh elte r before t he arrival o f the rai ny seaso n .

Th u s they remai n ed ex p osed to consta n t damp a n d cold

 TH E S AL FOR ES T S . 337

w in d s , an d depen d ent fo r their w ater on a small stag

n a n t pool p olluted by the dr a i n age o f d ecayi ng v eg e

t a t io n The result w a s death fr om ch olera o r som e

.
,

other maligna n t b o w el - com p lai n t o f thre e out of the

,

fou r an d th e retreat Of the o n ly survivor H o wever

, .

w orthy o f pr a ise such a n enterprise ca n not b e looke d

,

o n as a fair experime n t B ut it cast a gloom over the

.

pros p ect o f further a t t empts O f th e same s ort and ha s ,

never agai n b ee n repeated The example o f the

.

missio n s t o the K Ols o f Bengal a n d the Kare n s o f

B u rma w h ere the combi natio n o f p r ofitabl e i n d ustrial
,

enterprise w ith theol ogical teachi ng h as bee n fou n d to

b e si ngularly effective i n the p ropagatio n O f th e G ospel
among aborigi nal races may poi nt to the d esirability
,

o f some such system b ei n g attempted amo n g th e u n

so p histicated savages o f these wilds by those w ho a r e

no w preachi n g i n vain to the semi -H i n d u t r ibes fu rther
rve s t .

S ome time ago a Fre n ch gentlema n took up a con

s id e ra b l e tract of th e fi n est land in o n e of these vall eys .

B ut it soo n appeared that he had n o i ntentio n of real

colo n isatio n a n d had in fact bee n merely s peculati n g o n
, , ,

the valu e of the forest produce o f the la n d This a n d .

-
other symptoms o f la n d j obbing have I b elieve i n duced , ,

some reco nsideratio n O f the rules fo r the sal e o f t he fee

simpl e o f w aste la n ds On e thi n g may b e relied o n
.
,

ho w ever — that what ever title a settler may here Obtain

from th e G over nme n t w ill be a n absolute one e ve r y ,

existing o r poss ible p r iv ate i n terest h aving be en fully

determi ned before the available w astes w ere d eclared by
l a w to be state p rop erty .

I n such a w ell - w atere d sha d y a nd grassy region as

, ,

this Up per N arbad a valley it is i nevitable that w ild

,

a n imals shoul d abou n d The hilly ranges w hich separate

.

2 c 2
388 T H E HIGHLAND S OF C E N T RAL INDIA .

the valleys co ntai n the biso n the s a mbar a n d the , ,

black bear l ike similar tracts in other p arts o f th e

,

provi nce These are a n imals peculiar t o n o part o f

.

I n dia a n d the sam e may b e said of the spotted deer

, ,

w hich a ff ects the de n sely w oo d ed ba nks Of the la r ger

streams Bu t as I have said w e are h ere w ithi n the
.
, ,

limits of the great s a l belt a n d come upon some animals,

which I have n oticed as coi n cidi ng in ra nge there w ith .

C hief in i nterest amo n g thes e is the beautiful t w elve

ti n ed dee r (R u c er c u s D z w a u c cllii) calle d by some the ,

B a r a si ng ha a n am e w hich simply mea n s

-
,
“
t w elve
ti n ed a n d w hich is applied als o to the K a sh mi r st a g
,
”

a s hmi r z e ns i s )
’

( C. C I n si z e it is intermediate bet wee n

.

the s a mbar a nd the spotte d dee r an d almost the same ,

as t he r e d deer o f S cotla n d I n col our it is a reddish .

bro w n duri ng t he cold seaso n passi n g through a bright ,

rufous chest n ut i n spri ng to a rich golden red in s ummer .

The a n tlers are very ha n dsome a nd differe ntly shape d ,

from those o f a ny other deer in the w orl d They have .

b u t o n e basal ti n e over the forehea d n o me dia n tines at ,

all a n d all the other bra n ches arra n ged at th e s ummit

,

of th e beam H ere th ey sh o w a t endency to app r oach

.

the Busi n e type to w hich belo n g th e s a mbar a n d the

,

axis th e beam bei ng first divided into a termi nal fork

, ,

eac h bra n ch o f w hich after wards splits i nto seve r al

p o i nts U sual ly the out war d o r anterior bra n ch bears
.

th r ee such poi nts a n d the in ward o r p oste r ior t wo

, ,

maki n g w ith the bro w-

, a ntler six poi n ts o n each hor n , .

V e r y o l d stags sometimes have mo r e ; b ut as in the ,

'

R u s z nce w hen there are more tha n thre e the extra o n es

,

are a b n o r mal mo n strosities and the a ntlers are usually ,

u nsymmetrical and stu nt ed i n si z e The hor n s are .

g r ay ish in colour a n d o f a s moother surface tha n those

,

Of the s a mb a r They are not nearly s o massive n o r s o

.
,
390 T H E H I GHLAND S OF C E N T R AL INDIA .

are calle d by n atives an d ofte n by E uropean s ) m ay

,

he shot by beati ng the grass w ith elephant s in th e

ma nne r before described D uri n g th e height o f the
.

cold w eather ma ny parts o f this tract c a n hardly b e

traversed exce p t o n an elephant ; a n d in such p laces
shooti ng w ould otherw is e b e impossible o w i n g to th e ,

height a n d thickness Of th e grass j u ngl e I n the course .

o f a day s beati n g of this sort i n the Ma n d l a district

’

a very great variety Of game m ay easi l y be m et

w ith . O n o ne occasio n whe n spe n di n g C hristmas
,

w ith t w o frien d s i n th e l ovely Mati a ri valley a d ay s

’

march east o f the station o f Man dl a w e secured I , ,

think a specimen of n early every kin d o f game t o

,

he fou n d in th e cou n try exce p ti n g the biso n and ,

th e pa n ther O n the 2 6 t h w e marche d fro m a place

.

c a lled Ba r t Ola to G o hri both o n th e Mati a ri— a clear

’

sparkli ng strea m that here runs through a valley fille d ,

w ith lo ng grass cover and b ounded o n either side by

,

chai n s o f l o w hills flat o n the tops a nd clothed with

, ,

l o w tree j u ngle a n d bamboos o n th eir si d es We t ook .

se p arate lines F goi ng by the p ath w ay D alo n g the

, .
,
.

t ops o f the hills on o ne side w hile I beat alo ng th e ,

r iver belo w o n a n eleph ant I h a d n o t go n e far before

.

I p ut u p a large herd of s a mbar in l o ng grass a n d , ,

firi ng right a n d l eft dropped one small stag a nd heavily

, ,

w ou n ded a very la r ge fello w w ith splendid antlers and

as black as a b uffal o I got Off an d tracked th e
.
,

w ounded animal for about three miles by his blood ,

thro u gh th e lo n g de w y grass till I w a s as thoroughly

, ,

w etted through as if I had bee n w adi ng in a tank ,

w he n as the deer had reache d heavy bamboo cover a nd

, ,

seemed to be still stro n g I gave it up a nd again made , ,

for th e river O n the wa y I cam e on a herd o f red deer

.
,

gra z ing ab out in an Ope n i n g in the l o w j ungle w here a ,

 TH E S AL FOR ES T S . 39 1

fi ne spri n g ke p t th e grass beautifu lly green They s a w .

me before I wa s w ithi n shot h o w ever a n d ret r eate d , ,

i nto grass cover Waiti n g a little I got o n the ele p hant

.
, ,

a nd p rocee d ed t o beat the long grass ; a n d after going ,

abou t a qu arter o f a mile started the herd w hich must , ,

have co ntained fully thirty i n dividu als They dive d .

i nto a dee pish hollo w fille d w ith l o w brush w oo d in

, ,

front o f me an d I w aited o n t he edge for their ap p ear

,

ance o n the far side P r esently they cl atter e d u p in

.

si ngle file stags a n d does intermixe d th e last o f all

, ,

bei ng a v ery large dark red stag w ith beautiful antlers ,

that seemed almost t o overpo wer hi m as h e sl o wly

trotted u p the rise I h ad the sight o f th e d oubl e rifle
.

beari ng full o n his broad back a nd w a s j ust tou chi n g ,

the trigger w hen th e m a n behi n d me s eize d and d etaine d

my arm in a vice -like gras p The moment w a s lost .
,

a n d I tur n e d viciously o n the cul p rit w ho h o w ever , , ,

poi n te d si l e n tly to an Obj ect i n a tree close to o u r

hea d s I t wa s a huge colony O f bees — th e terrible
.

B o nkr a w hose s w ar m s ha d a march o r t wo before

, , ,

routed o u r w hole follo wi n g lea v i n g a good -sized baggage ,

po n y dea d u p on the grou nd L ucky it w a s I had not .

fired and I thought little Of th e lost stag in the hurry

,

to get o u t o f s o d a ngerou s a vici n ity A bou t half a .

mile further o n near the river a s p otted d oe leaped o u t

, ,

o f a patch o f grass and s coured across the p lai n

, It .

w a s t o o tempti n g sh e looked so rou n d a nd fat ; a n d a

,

s n ap shot rolled her over sh ot through the lo in s , We .

w ere n o w not far from camp and I w a s b eating through ,

some l o ngish grass w hen a full round cou nte n a n ce wa s

, ,

seen p eering over th e top o f i t at the a d va n ci ng

e le p hant I did n o t mak e it o u t for a w hile an d pre
.
,

s e nt l
y it d isa p peare d the motion o f the grass sho w i n g
,

the p rogress o f a large b ody to war d s the river A littl e

. .
 39 2 T HE HIGHLAND S OF C ENTR AL INDIA .

furth er o n it stop p e d and the rou n d face again glare d

,

at m e over th e gra ss S urely it must be a tiger ? A

.

gl i m pse o f a striped red hide settle d the q u estio n a nd I ,

moved a little do w n t o cu t her o ff from th e river be d .

A l l w a s m otio n less fo r a fe w m i n utes a n d the n again ,

the slo wly w avi n g grass sh o w ed t he stealthy prog r ess

to w ards th e deep gully i n w hich r a n th e river A .

s hallo w ravi n e w a s a little ah ead do w n w hich s he ,

could steal u n observed exce p t in o ne place w h ere a , ,

little j u n gle path w ay crossed it a n d I t ook up a plac e ,

comman d i ng this at ab out sixty yards w aiti n g w ith ,

cocked rifle a n d beati n g h eart No w she is close t o .

the o p e ni ng the grass rustli ng ge n tly above her No w

,
.

she s n eaks rapidly across cra w li ng l o w b ut halts , ,

fo r a m ome n t to look agai n b efore e n tering the further

cover .Fatal pause ! A ball spee d s through her
shoul d er a n d turni ng w ith a roar she gallops back
, , ,

agai n u p th e hollo w I th o u gh t sh e mea n t a charge

.
,

and hastily reloa d ed the discharged barrel o f my breech

loader as I had only o ne g u n o u t bei n g o n a pad Bu t
, , .

she left the n a l a w hen n ea r ly op p osite m e o n th e w rong

, ,

si d e I thi nk sh e must have fo r gotte n fo r she evide n tly

.
,

looked o u t fo r her assailan t j u mpi ng high ab ove t he ,

grass at every bound— a really beautiful sight w ith he r ,

very bright -coloure d ski n hair erect and tail streami ng , ,

behi n d her A bout the thi r d bou n d I caught her w ith

.

anoth er bullet a n d she fell crumple d u p i n mid -

,
air for , ,

all th e w orld j ust like a partri dge struck full by a charg e

of shot S he w a s lying sto n e -d ead w hen I came up
.
,

a n d no w o n der for th e ball had e n tered n ear her tail

, ,

traversed th e w hole l e n gth of her body an d w a s resti ng ,

u n der th e skin Of her forehead The rifle w a s a t welve .

-
bore breech loa d er on my o wn sph erical ball pri n ciple
, ,

the penetratio n Of w hich may b e j u d ge d o f by this

39 4 T H E HIGHLANDS OF C E N T R AL I NDIA .

branchi ng w atercours e crosses th e path w ay sev eral

time s I w a s w alki ng ah ead o f my follo w ers w he n I
, ,

came o n the remai n s o f a p oor w a n derer who ha d ,

evidently not long before b een kille d by a tiger H e .

w a s a religious m e n dica n t ; a n d his l o n g iron to n gs ,

beggi ng- bo wl h ollo w ed fr om a skull a nd cocoa -nu t

,

hooka w ere scattered about in the bottom o f the n a l a ,

w here he had been resti ng o n his w eary marc h together ,

w ith tresses o f his lo n g m atted hair an d a shred o r t w o

of cloth Th e bo n es w e r e all b r oke n to p ieces an d
.
,

many o f t hem w ere m issi ng altogether A Banj a r a

’

drover ha d been taken Off n ear the sam e s p o t ab out a

w eek b efore so that it wa s not without some misgivi n gs
,

that I w a n dered Off the road through the long grass to

lo o k fo r red deer to w ar d s the skirts o f the hills T O .

hu n t for the tiger i n s uch a n ocean o f grass - cover w oul d

ha v e b ee n ho p eless I skirted th e hills to the right o f
.

the road fr o m here to t he cam p ing -grou n d at Man gl i

’

ve r y soo n getti ng dre n ched to th e skin p assi ng through

t he high grass drippi n g w ith the mor ni ng d e w To w ar d s .

the hills the gr ass w a s shorte r and th e p lain m uch cut

,

u
p by deep fissures i n the black h
,
eavy soil I sa w .

several small herds o f d eer w e n di ng th eir w a y to w ards

the clumps o f s a l forest o n the ski r t Of th e hil ls b efore I
fou n d a ny i n a positio n that w oul d admit Of stalki n g .

A t last I marked a small parcel o f bi nd s w ith t wo fair

,

l ooki ng stags disappear over a l o w risi ng grou n d slo wly

, ,

feedi ng thei r w a y to w ards the fores t and maki n g a lo ng

d et o u r to gai n the shelte r of a deep crack w hich led ,

i nto the valley they had e ntere d I stalked almost into

,

the middle of them b efore I w a s a w are My first

.

i n timatio n o f the fact w a s th e sharp bark of a bin d w ho ,

had Observed the top o f my head over th e ban k and the ,

n ext m oment a rush O f feet i n formed m e that t he h er d

 TH E S AL FORE S T S .
39 5

wa s O ff . S te pp i ng o n t o the ba nk I ma d e a clea n miss ,

O f the first ru n ni n g shot ; but taki n g more tim e w it h

,

the seco n d barrel I s a w th e hi n dmost stag reel an d

,

a l most fall over to the shot H e made o ff h o w ever

.
, ,

alo ng w ith the her d ; but presently left them and took ,

-
a li n e o f his o w n to w ar d s the lo g grass cover i n th e
n

middle o f the p lain I soo n hit o n his track w here h e

.

ha d entered th e grass a nd fou n d a little blood ; but a s

,

the grass w a s a long w a y over my head I se n t back for ,

the ele p ha n t w ith w hich to beat him o u t Follo wi ng .

the blood - marks o n the yellow stems for abou t a mile ,

w e st a rted him o u t o f a p atch o f grass near the river ,

a nd I shot him through the back as he r a n a w ay .

The n ext d ay bei n g encamped at To p l a i n the

, ,

centre o f a w ide valley am o n g th e s a l forest I w e n t ,

o u t in the afternoon to w a rds the H a lo n river H ere .

t he cou n t r y w a s open and prairie - like shor t grass ,

pl ai n s dotte d w ith clu m p s o f s a l i nterve n ing bet w een

, ,

the heavier m asses o f forest Th e river wa s very bright

.

and clear ru nn i ng over a pebbly b ed I took o u t

, .

t w o young half- bred hou n d s bet w e e n the R a mpi i r breed ’

a nd the S cotch d eerhou n d in the ho p e o f getti n g the m

,

a run at a w ou n d ed red deer as they w ere as yet ,

guiltless o f bloo d Their m othe r and the bull mastiff

.
,
”
Ti n ker o f w olf re n o w n accompa n ie d t o help them in
, ,

the kill A couple o f lith e blacks a nd nearly n ake d

.
,

Byg a s w ith their w a r -

, axes guide d th e party We
,
.

w a n dere d a good ma n y miles in the early afternoon

w ithou t comi n g o n game bu t I at l east w a s gratifie d
, , ,

by the d elightful park - like sce n ery A bou t four O clock .

’

by th e a d vice o f th e By g a s w e sat do wn o n a littl e

,

e mi n e n ce cro w ned by a clum p Of s a l trees t o w atch ,

fo r deer co m i n g o u t to dri n k o r fee d V ery soon a .

oo d -sized herd su d denly ap p eare d i n t he mi dd le o f

g
39 6 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN TR AL INDIA .

a lo ng flat stretch o f grass -

,
la n d beyo n d the river ;
a nd after stretchi n g themselves and e nj oyi ng a gam e
,

at romps co m me n ced feedi ng pretty quickly do w n

,

t o w a r ds th e ba n k o f th e river We at o n ce retreated
.

over t he ba n k Of o u r knoll ; a nd getti ng i nto a hollo w ,

protected by a fri n ge o f bus hes crept up t o th e ba nks ,

a n d a gai n reco n noit r ed Th ey w ere quite u nsuspicious

.
,

t h e wi n d bei n g highly favo u rabl e ; and th ey seemed

likely to com e and dri nk in our very faces Whe n .

w ithi n a fe w hu n dre d yar d s ho w ever they halted a

, ,

l o n g tim e behi nd a littl e risi n g grou n d I w a s in agony .

l es t th e dogs s h ou l d m ak e us k n o w n as they w er e ,

d r ea dfully excite d by the restrai nt Of the st a lks a nd ,

seemed to k n o w perfectly w ell th at there w a s som ethi ng

to hu n t at ha nd Presently a si ngle hi n d topped the
.

rise a n d for fu ll fi v e m i nutes stoo d s ni ffi ng rou n d

,

i n all di r ectio n s her great ears cocked in aid o f her

,

s e nse o f smell A t last sh e seemed t o be satisfied a n d

.
,

m oved slo w ly for wards n o w p ausi ng to cro p a m outhfu l

,

of grass a nd the n agai n starti n g a n d looking ab out

,

a s if she had heard o r smelt somethi n g A stag n o w .

w alke d up past h er a nd w i t hout th e least preca u tio n

,

ca m e bol d ly o n t o th e water w hich h e e ntere d ,

about a hu n dred yar ds above o u r p ost The res t .

O f the h erd w ere still m o stly hi dd e n by th e rise .

C r eepi n g through th e bushes I p re p ared t o fire a t

t he stag a n d gav e o r ders fo r th e b o u n d s to he slip p ed
,

at o n ce after I sh ould fire I wa s barely i n time t o

.

secure a s h ot before th e stag alarm ed by a yelp from

, ,

o n e of the d o gs tur n ed to fl ee up the ba nk A s i t

, .

w a s I d r opped him o n the p eb b ly ba nk shot through ,

t he sh oulder ; a n d tu r ni ng the rifle o n the hi nd

,

w ho w a s pausi n g star t led at the sh ot th e other bulle t ,

passed through h er thigh i nj uri ng the hip j oint S he

,
.
39 8 T HE HIGHLANDS OF C EN T R AL INDIA .

he had several pretty s evere b ites i n the arms an d

legs before I coul d arrive to his rescu e A s a rul e .

Ti nker w a s a s quiet as a lamb w ith men ; but w hen

roused by blood he w a s a perfect devil a n d as his siz e
a n d w eight w ere imme nse I w a s ofte n rather afrai d
of him mysel f Poor fello w his formidable aspec t
.
,

a n d a fe w outbursts o f this sort w ere th e death o f

him bei ng poiso n ed by a d og boy a fe w mo nths
,

after war d s B ell broke h er neck by chasi ng a n a ntelope

.

do wn a b li n d w ell a fe w march es after the hunt I have

,

related ; th e best o f th e t w o pups wa s carrie d O ff

by a leopard or hy ae na ; and altogether I w a s s o disguste d
w ith the bad luck I had al ways had i n keepi n g large
dogs in I n dia that I gave it up altogether a nd I ca nnot
say that I fou n d very much l e ss accrue to my sport
i n conseque n ce I believe th ey lose more w ounded
.

a n imals by d rivi ng them o u t o f reac h than they

, ,

recover .

O n the w a y back I sh ot a n oth er hi n d who stood too

,

l o ng to ga z e at the u n w o nte d i nt r ude r s and s a w the

,

t r acks o f a w ild elepha n t si nki ng d eep i nto the soft ,

black soil I w a s told aft er wa r ds that this elepha n t

.

w a s o n e w hich had broke n loos e fr om captivity about

t e n y ears previously a n d ha d si n ce i nhabited th e de n se
,

covers ab out th e head o f the H a lo n rive r H e aft er .

w a r ds annoyed th e forest officers n o t a little b y sys t e

m a t ic a lly demolishi ng all th e masonry b ou n da r y pillars
erected b y them rou n d the reserved forest R eally w ild .

elepha n ts do n ot come so far w est as this ; th e cou n try

to the cast of A mar ka n t a k (t he source o f the N a r ba d a ) ,

o r at the m ost the S am n i valley a little n eare r than

,

that place b ei ng thei r m ost w esterly ra nge i n this part

,

o f I n dia F o r merly ho w ever the whole of this cou n t r y

.
, , ,

a n d fa r t o the w est o f it w a s the home of the w ild

,
 TH E S AL FORE S T S . 39 9

elep hant Th e etymology of m any n am es such as th e

.

”
“
elephan t e n closure th e elephant p ool etc w ould
, ,
.
,

suffi ce to i n d icat e this ; but besi d es w e have it dis , ,

“
t inc t ly recor d ed i n that valuabl e work the
,
I n st itute s ,
”
Of A kber that in the sixtee n th century elepha n ts w ere
,

found and capture d i n the N arbad a valley as far w est as

the Bij a g a r h a n d H a ndi a S ir ka r s fi w hich lie partly t o
f

the w est o f the m eridian of the presen t military stations

o f Mho w a n d A s i rgarh This is probably the most ,

w este r ly ra nge o f th e wild elepha n t that has b een

recorded ; and their subse q u e n t disappeara nc e over s o
l a rge a tract o f cou ntry speaks volum es for the a d vance
m ent w hich has taken place in that period .

Th e night I w a s at Topl a t wo tigers roare d lou dly

“

round about the camp We w ere pitched i n a little .

glade in the s e a O f grass a n d the effect i n the clear cold

, ,

night w a s very fi ne The n ight voice Of the tiger has a

.

very im p ressive sound co n veyi ng tho u gh n o t nearly s o

, ,

lou d as the bray o f a j ac k ass the idea o f imme n s e ,

po wer as it rolls and trembles alo n g the earth Four

, .

m o nths l ater w h e n I w a s e n camped n ear M a ti n i n th e

, ,

forests o f the far east I listened o ne nigh t to the most

,

remarkable serena d e o f tigers I eve r h eard A peculiar .

,

l o g ail like the dra

n w ,
w n -
o u t m e w Of a h u ge cat fi r st rose ,

fr om a river course a fe w hun d re d yards belo w my tent .

Prese n tly from a mil e o r s o higher up the river came a

deep treme n dous roar w hich h ad scarcely d ied a way
, ,

ere it wa s ans w ered fr om behi n d the ca mp by another ,

pitched i n a yet deeper tone startli ng us from its

s u dd e nn ess and proximity A ll three w ere rep eate d at .

short i ntervals as the three tigers a pp roache d each

,

other along the bottoms o f the deep d ry w atercourses , ,

betw een an d above which the ca mp ha d b een pitched .

G la d wi n s A ee m A kb y v ol ii p 24 9
’ “
z er ,
”
. . . .
4 00 T HE HIGHLAND S OF C E N T RAL INDIA .

As th ey d r e w together th e noises cease d for about a

quarte r of a n hour a nd I wa s do z i n g off to sleep agai n ,

w he n sudde nly a r ose the most fea r ful d in near to where

th e t ig r ess had first sounded the lov e - note to her rival
l overs a din like the cate r wau l i n g o f mid night cats
,

m ag n ified a hu ndre d fo ld I ntervals Of sile n ce b r oke n

.
,

b y ou tbursts o f this i n fer nal shrieki ng a n d moa ni n g ,

disturbed o u r rest for the n ext h our d y i ng a w ay ,

g r adually as the tigers retired alo n g the b ed o f the

river I n th e mo r n i n g I fou n d all th e i n cide nts o f a
.

three - volume n ovel in feline l ife im p ri nted o n the sand

a nd ma r ks o f blood sho w e d ho w ge n uine th e co mbat

pa r t Of the pe r for ma n ce had bee n For th e assura nce .

o f the timid I may as w ell say that I have n ev er ha d

,

m y camp actually i n vaded b y a tiger though co n sta n tly ,

pitched w ith a sle n der follo wi ng a nd w ithout a ny sort

, ,

o f precautio n i n the m iddle o f their hau n ts

, I t st r ikes .

a st r a nger to j u ngl e ways a little Oddly perhaps to see , ,

a m a n i n the w arm summer n ights calmly take his bed

o u t a hu n dred yards fr om the te n ts lie d o wn u n der th e ,

can opy o f heave n liste n p ip e in m outh fo r h alf a n

, , ,

hour to th e n oises o f w ild a nimals a nd then placidly ,

fall asleep H e soo n learns to d o the same hims elf

. .

A bout t he e n d Of the rai n s in S eptember a n d ,

O ctober the re d d eer collect in large herds o n the tops

,

o f the plateaux and I have been tol d o f assemblages o f

several hundred head at that seaso n They are th e n .

begi nn i ng to ru t and are ve r y easy t o get at the

, ,

G o nds a n d By g a s killi ng great nu mbers w ith th eir axes ,

aided by their stro ng tall d ogs The best hea d s are to

, .

be got from these people ; a nd that figure d o pposite ,

w hich is a very typical one w a s killed either thus or by

,

a tige r I myself n ever got a complete head with more

.

t han ten points though I have secure d some heavier

,
 C H A PT ER X .

AN E XP L OR AT I ON IN TH E FA R E AS T .

TH E H ighla n ds of C e n t r al I ndia m a y perhaps properly

be said to termi n ate w here the ste ep southern face o f
the My ka l range tre n di ng a w ay to the n orth -eas t
, ,

culmi nates i n the high blu ff promo n tory o f A marka n tak .

S ta n di ng he r e o n this p romi n e n t poi n t the very focus

,

and navel of I n dia the eye ra nges over a pa n oram a

,

p erhaps i nfe r i o r in exte nt to n o outlook in the whole

pe ni nsula The rai n that clothes this little p lateau o f a
.

fe w squ are miles w ith the gree n est Of verdure havi n g ,

t he peculia r ity o f seldom ceasi ng for more than a fe w

days at a ny part o f th e year fo r ms th e fi r st begi nni ngs
,

of th r ee great rivers w hose w aters flo w in o pp osite

,

directio n s to the s eas on either side Of I n dia Th e .

i n fa nt N a r ba d a bubbles forth at th e feet O f th e Observe r ,

e nclosed by rel igious care in a w all o f mas o nry a n d ,

surr ou n ded by H i nd u temples a nd the n ce mea n ders o n

,

for some miles through a narr o w gla d e carpeted w ith ,

b eau tiful grass a n d fringed by forests o f s a l ; at fi r st a

,

t i ny bur n but gro w i ng ra p idly by u n ion w it h others

,
,

till some t hree miles from th e fountai n it leaps over

, ,

th e e d ge o f t he p lateau in a clear sh oot of ab out thirty

feet S ev e n hu ndred a n d fifty miles further o n i t rolls
.
,

a mighty riv er i nto th e w aters Of the A rabia n G u lf I n

, .
 AN EX P L O RA T I O N IN T HE F AR E AS T . 4 03

t he local S iv it e Mythology the N arba d a is the maiden

My ka l - Ka ny a d aughter o f th e My ka l Mou ntai n fr om
, ,

w hose bro w sh e spri ngs R esistless in her divi ne .

m ight at her first birth she o v e r flo w ed the earth in a

,

destructive flood till in ans w er to the prayers an d

, ,

sac r ifices o f m e n the G reat G od se n t the V i ndhy a

,

ig
Mountai n and his se ven stal wart s o ns to restra i n her ,

whe n she shra n k i n to her present ch a nn el leavi ng ,

behind her the G a nges an d other rivers as pools are ,

left by the recedi ng ti de H e n ce the san ctity o f the .

N arba d a is su p erior to that o f all other rivers though ,

th e go d s gave the prefere n ce for t h e firs t five thou

s an d years o f th e K a l i —
Y ug to the G a nges T w enty .

e ight years o n ly o f this perio d n o w remain u n expired ,

w he n the local B r ahma n s fu lly expect th e N arbad a t o

surpass as a plac e of pilgrimage all other rivers o f I n d ia .

A s it is the pare n t spring at A marka n tak and many

, ,

p laces alo ng its course are p laces o f great sa n ctity to

,

pilgrims fr o m all par t s Of I n dia ; and the help o f the

rail way w hich is by n o means scor n ed by the d evout
,

H i nd u (who likes to b oil his bids fair to realise

i n some d egree th e p rophecy o f the Pur a na s A little .

to th e n orth o f the source o f t he N arbad a rises the

'

J Ohilla a stream which shortly j oi ns the S one also born

, ,

in these bills a nd fl o w s n orth i n to th e G a n ges ; w hile

, ,

still o nly a fe w steps from these another little stream , ,

the A rp a bubbl es forth and shortly t u mbles over the

, ,

sheer cliff to the south a n d m i ngles w ith the great ,

Mah a nad i w hich d r ai n s the plai ns of Cha t t is g a r h in t o

’ '

the Bay o f B e ngal From t his height o f . feet

t he eye embraces a vie w o f three - fourths o f a circle ,

Then ce the n a m e S at -
p u a app lie d r ,
to these high l and s , S cit p u tr d
m ean i n g lite ally the rS eve n S o ns .

2 D 2
40 4 T HE HIGHLAN D S OF C E NT R AL INDIA .

u n i nt erru p te d by anythi ng but the blue haze o f d istance

w hich limits the v ision Far b elo w t o the s outh .
,

lyi ng like a chessboard is the o p en cultivated plain o f ,

Cha t t is g a r h stretchi ng o u t t o th e uttermost ra nge o f

’

vision T O the east and north

. feet belo w appears , ,

a flat sea o f greenery broken here a n d there by an ,

isolated p eak that a pp ears t o reach th e l evel o f th e

observer I n the fai n t distance beyo n d rises a nother
.

w all o f rock visibl e o nly o n a clear day as a fai n t

,

violet - coloured shade across th e sky Th e gree n p lai n .

is a vast forest o f s al u n broken by t illage an d scarcely

’

, ,

i nhabite d by m an a nd the rocky rampart b eyon d is the

,

buttress o f a n other tabl e - la n d call ed S irguj a the land ,

o f t h e K6 1 aborigi n es a n d beyo n d the limits o f o u r

,

province My mission fo r th e succeedi ng six months

.

w a s to ex p lore this v ast region o f s a l forest lyi n g to ,

the north an d east o f A m arkantak a n d stretching far ,

'

beyond an d to th e south o f the p lai n Of Cha t t is g a r h in ,

the semi - i n d ependent cou n try called the Ga r hj a t S tates .

O ver all this country roams th e w ild bu ffal o and in ,

the forests n orth and east o f A markantak w ere then

found large herds o f wild elephants w hich descen d e d at
the ripe ni ng o f th e cro p s Of C hattis garh t o th e skirts o f
th e forest doi ng imm e n se d amage and formi ng a seriou s
, ,

obstacl e to the cultivation Of the cou n try To pe n etrate .

t o their h au nts ascertai n their n umbers an d pro p ose

, ,

mea n s fo r their d estru ctio n wa s a n other Obj ect Of o u r ,

expeditio n .

I n the en d o f January I d escen d e d the R a j a dha r

pass from the Mandl a d istrict an d m arched across th e ,
’

Cha t t is g a r h plai n w here a n telo p e ducks s nipe etc

, , , ,
.
,

affo r ded perpetu al occupation for the gun to the station ,

o f Ra i p u r w here I met th e C hief C ommissioner s cam p

' ’
,
 AN E X P L OR AT I O N IN T H E F A R E AS T . 40 5

an d my fu ture companio n i n this ex p e d itio n—C ap tai n

B o f H er Maj esty s
.
,
R egiment Thenc e w e pr o ’
.

c e e d e d t o the eastern an d s outhern forests marching ,

rapidly t o get from o ne p ortion Of thes e forests to

a n other w her e d ays an d w eeks w oul d be p asse d i n
,

tram p i ng abo u t the h il ls a nd mak ing notes the great ,

par t o f w hic h w oul d possess n o inte rest fo r the general

re a d er We never allo w e d ours elves t o li nger fo r spor t ;
.

bu t the her d s Of buffaloes are i n som e p arts o f this

cou ntry s o numerous that i t w ould ha v e been al most
im p ossible to avoi d enco u ntering th em .

*
The extre me w ester n ra nge o f th e w il d buffal o in
C en t ral I n dia is al mos t exactly m arke d by th e 8 ot h
meridian o f lo ngitu d e f i n physical feat u res by the ,
o

Wyn - G ang a tri bu tary o f he G od a vari river an d bel o w ,

their j unction al mos t by t he latter river itself I say .

a lm o s t because in a tri p d o w n the G o d a vari river

,

w hich I ma d e d u ri ng the rains I s a w the tracks Of ,

a herd Of buffalo es o n the w este r n side o f that river a t ,

the third b a r rie r r south o f t he sta t ion o f C h a n d a

“ ” ‘

'
,

that is a short d istance t o the w e s t o f the 8 0 t h

,

m eridia n The n a tives h o w ever tol d me there that

.
, ,

they only cross th e ri v er i n the rai ny season an d that ,

they d o not p enetrate very far t o th e w est so tha t ,

s o slight an exce p tion m ay fairly be held to p rove

the ge neral rule S O far the n from the common a d age .
, ,

o f th e sportsma n b ei ng tru e that the w il d buffal o d oes

Bu ba lu s a rm
'

T T hese b a ie s “
rr r a re p i ts
the c o u se Of this r ive r w he e o n in r r

its o the wis e still lak lik e cha acte is b o ken b y s p ac es i n which
r ,
e r r r

the r ive r assu mes m or e the cha acte r Of a m o u ntai n st eam T hey r r

i n te u p t what w o ul d o the wise b e n u n b o ken st retch o f w ate r-

.

rr r wa y a r

i nt o the hea t o f the c o u nt y n d e n o w b ei ng d ea l t w ith b y a

r r ,
a ar

staff o f skilful e ngin ee rs P o b a b ly a he d o f b uffal o es wo ul d fin d it

. r r

e asie t o c o ss at one o f these b a rr ie s than els e w her e

r r r .
 40 6 T HE HIGHL ANDS OF CEN T RAL IN D IA .

no t exte nd s o u th of the N arbad a the t r u th is that th e ,

a nimal is u nk n o wn to the n o r t h of it i n the lo ngitude ,

Of t hat river I t has bee n stated th at the fe r al buffaloes

.

of these pa r ts a r e o nly th e desce n da nts o f tame o n es r u n

w ild a n idea that w ill n o t hold w ater for a second
,
.

They hav e all the habits o f fully w ild animals are ,

extremely n umerous in the parts they i n habit a nd ,

exactly correspo n d in si z e a nd every par ticular with

the aborigi n ally w ild bu ff aloes o f E aster n Be n gal T wo .

varieties are recog nised i n I ndia di ffe r i n g chiefly i n ,

the le ngth a n d shape o f the hor ns They have been .

called b y H odgso n B Ill ac r o cc r o s a n d B Sp ei r o c er o s

,
.
,
.
,

the hor ns o f the former bei n g lo ng straight a n d more , ,

sle nder a n d o f the latter shor t er thicker a n d more

, , , ,

curved A ll the C e nt r al I n dia n species that I h av e

.

seen pe r tai n to the latter race t he average length Of ,

the horn s of a m atu r e b ull b ei n g three -a n d -a -half t o

four feet N o a n imal h as cha n ged so little i n domes
.

t ic a t i o n as the buffalo I n appeara n ce the w il d a n imal

.

is extremely like the tame o n e b ut fu lly a thir d l arger , ,

a n d sho w i ng fi ne plump sleek conditio n i nstead of

, , ,

the slouchi ng scraggy a p peara n ce Of the d omesti c

,
“ ”
buff a n d possessi n g the fr ee actio n a nd air o f a
,

deni z en o f the w ilds I have never heard a n authentic

.

case of their interbreedi ng w ith th e domestic race ,

though i n dividuals o f the latter s ometimes j oin the

w ild herds a n d becom e di ffi cul t to reclaim
, I n height .

I h a ve n ever seen a w ild buffalo exceed sixteen ha n ds ;

b ut though thus l ess in stature tha n the biso n the ,

buffalo s t ands o n mu ch shorter l egs and is altogether ,

-
a heavie b u ilt a nimal so that in bulk and w eight he
r
,

mus t a good deal excee d the wild hu ll of the hills .

They n ever i nte r fere with each other the biso n adheri ng ,

t o hilly t r acts w hile the bu ff alo is esse ntially a lover o f

,
4 08 T H E HIGHLA NDS OF C E N TR AL IND IA .

ha d com p letely taken possession d evastating th e rice , ,

a n d chargi ng in d iscriminately at a l l who ap p roache d .

A Baboo fr om the nearest p olice station ha d com e o u t

a little while before t o ri d the p lace o f the invader b u t ,

co n te nted himself w ith firi n g a w ay all his ammunition

at half a mile s d istance from the to p o f a ho u s e f a n d
’

the bull remaine d m o n arch o f all b e surveyed We ha d .

scarcely e ntere d o n the plains w hen the o wner o f the

rui n e d rice -fi el d s pointed o u t his enemy loomi ng o u t ,

agai n s t the horizon as large as an elephant and we ,

at once made p re p arations fo r the attack The place .

-
w a s a s level and open as a billiar d table s o w e ha d ,

to rely o n o u r rifles alone We w ere b oth heavily .

armed w ith t wo - ou n ce rifles ho w ever an d several , ,

smaller guns in reserve s o w e marche d straight o n

,

the fe e w ith o u r very miscellaneous p ack o f dogs un d er

,

orders to b e l e t go at the first sh ot The h u ll an d .

his harem cam e bol d ly d o wn to meet us an d as w e ,

approach e d comm ence d his usu al d emonstrations to put

u s t o flig ht — p a wi ng th e earth w ith his feet tossi ng his
,

mighty hor ns an d m a ki n g shor t ru n s in o u r d irection

, .

But w e stea d ily a d vance d an d whe n w ithin about ,

eighty yar d s separate d a little s o that o n e shoul d get ,

a flank shot the full front o f the buffalo bei ng p r a c

,

tically p roof agai nst lea d I t wa s my turn for first

.

shot a n d when abou t s ixty y ar d s intervene d I k n elt

,

do w n a n d brought the heavy rifle t o bear o n th e p oi n t

Of his shoulder C rash w ent t wo ounces o f lea d pr o
.
,

elle d by eight drachms o f p o w d er against his to u gh

p ,

hide and h e fell upon his knees B ang w e n t se veral

, .

mo r e o f o u r shots a n d h e stumble d Off dea d la m e a n d

,

very much crestfallen Follo w i ng h im u p w ith the

.

d ogs w ho w ere n o w ha y ing round him w e overhaul ed

, ,

him in an open fiel d an d re p eate d the d os e again a n d

,
 AN EX P L OR AT I O N IN T H E F A R EAS T . 40 9

a gain till h e fell heavily against th e emba n k me nt o f a

- l
rice fi e d a n d,
-
then step p ing u p I put a three ounce
, ,

sh ell behi n d his sh oul d er and with a quiver o f the

,

limbs he gave it u p H e wa s a fine a n imal in the

.
,

p rime Of life an d w e w ere amazed at th e b ulk a n d

,

strength exhibite d by his massive form The horn s .

w ere each three feet ten inches lo n g w hich i s n early ,

*
the extre me le ngth they ever attai n here H e had .

sixteen bullets i n him b efore he d ied s everal o f l a r ge ,

calibre a nd at close qu arters

,
We w ere ho w ev r .
,
e ,

s h ooti n g w ith bullets o f p lai n l ea d an d I found that ,

m y first t w o - ounce ball pro p elled by eigh t drachms O f

,

po wder had fl attened o u t o n his shoulder pulverisi ng

, ,

the b o n es ho w ever a n d compl etely lami n g him A ft er

, ,
.

this we shot with harde n e d p roj ectiles .

N ext d ay w e embarke d i n a l o ng canoe hollo w e d ,

from th e stem Of a mighty s a l tree o n the bosom of the ,

Mah a nad i a nd sailed d o wn to S ambalp u r i n t wo d ay s

,

and a n ight I t wa s mighty exciti n g w ork the stream

.
,

p assi n g at intervals over lo ng rapids w here the w ater , ,

brok en into many channels rushe d bet w een n arro w ,

banks overh u ng w ith b ushes the b oatme n steeri ng the,

can oe with lo ng poles in the m os t d exterous manner ,

n o w w ardi n g her bo w s fro m a rock o n w hich the stre a m

b roke in a sheet o f foam th e n p rostrating themselves at

,

th e bottom Of the boa t to avoid the s w ee p o f the

bra nch es w hile the cano e shot through some n arro w
,

p assage and presently emerging after a final shave

, ,

agai n st a su n ken rock into a dee p an d silent p ool

, ,

w here th e p lash o f huge fish a nd the eye - knobs and ,

s e rrate d backs o f crocodiles saili n g ab out sho w e d that ,

w e ha d entere d o n e o f the l o ng silent reaches that ,

F o ssil h o n s o f m uch l a ger si z e have b ee n f o u nd

r r in the
Na rb a d a g r ave l s al o ng w ith b on es o f the hi pp o p o ta mus et c
, ,
.
410 TH E HIGHLANDS OF CEN TR AL INDIA .

break at i ntervals the t or r e n t of these mou n tai n rivers .

My compa nion had got a seve r e attack o f feve r w hic h ,

ma r r ed w hat w o u l d other wise h ave bee n a su ffi cie n tly

j olly t rip A fter res t i ng a while at this most secluded O f
.

statio ns (they get their sup p lies fr om C alc u tta sev e r al ,

’
h u n d r eds O f miles a w ay o n me n s h ea d s a n d a co n voy
, ,

had j ust bee n t r ampled up by w ild elepha nts b e fore w e

a r rived ) w e star t ed agai n for the G a r hj a t S t ates w here
, ,

the n ext mo nth w a s spe n t i n u nr emi t ti n g toil am o n g

their rugged hills H ere w e w e r e amo n g the K hé nd
.

a b o r i ini e s
g famou ,
s for the Meri a sac r ifices Of hu ma n

bei ngs to the d r ead goddess K a l i H o w th ey c a n have .

b ee n co n fou n de d w i t h o u r C e nt r al I n d ia n G o n ds I can
n o t imagi n e T he y are much blacker a n d more n egro
.

like i n their physiqu e a n d speak a w holly different ,

language a fe w w ords o nly O f w hich app r oximate lik e

, ,

GOn d f to the T a mil o f the south

,
Their cou n try is .

w holly beyo n d the limits o f the ce n tral highla nd s an d

it w ould b e o u t o f place t o e n ter he r e i nto a d etailed
desc r ipti o n o f the tribe eve n did the fe w w eeks I p assed
,

amo ng them j ustify such a n u n dertaki ng IVe retur ne d .

fr om this trip w ith m os t o f o u r follo wi n g s ev erely ill o f

feve r co ntracted i n thes e clos e j u n gl es w he r e w ater is
, ,

so sca r ce a n d bad at this tim e O f y ear (A p r il ) that w e

rose like river go d s from o u r daily bath hu ng w i t h t he
, ,

g r ee n slime O f the feti d pools from which our su p plies

w e r e d r a wn A s w e marche d n orth ward agai n w e
.

e nte r ed the valley Of the J o nk river a tributary o f ,

the Ma ha nad i a n d here we fell in agai n wi t h great

,

herds o f buffaloes a n d halted fo r a day o r t wo to recrui t

,

o u r follo w e r s a n d sh oot O u r camp w a s pi t ched belo w

.

a g r e a t sp r eadi ng t r ee at t he deserte d si t e o f the vill a ge o f

Jil d a E ate n u p by the bu ff aloes the people ha d m oved
.
,

Off to a less ope n space A round u s w a s a sea of lo n g ,

41 2 T H E HIGHLAND S OF C E N TR AL INDIA .

when a tremendous boun d o f my little nag nearly

unseate d m e a n d w e j u st escap e d the long p ointe d
,

hor n s Of a lean brute Of a c o w that shot past my q uarter ,

a n d then p ulle d u p b eyo n d me shaki n g her h ea d an d ,

l ooki ng v ery w icked indee d I sheered o ff a n d l e t her.

,

procee d to rej oi n th e herd givi n g her a broadsi d e o f t w o

,

barrels as sh e p assed w hich w a s foll o we d by another

,

en d -o n charge for s everal hun d re d yards E ventually .

she w e n t Off a gain to war d s th e retreati n g h er d ; but ,

though the ground had n o w becom e very ha d c u t u p in ,

all d irectio n s by d ee p rift s in the black soi l and p itted by

the Ol d footmarks o f the b uffalo es I wa s not going to ,

decli n e the challe nge Of this fighti n g c o w S o after .

reloadi ng m y breech - loa d er w hich w a s a very light ,

snip e gun pressed into ball service an d w holly u nfit ,

for this sort o f w o r k I ca ntere d aft er her and w hen

, , ,

within d istance ma d e a rush p ast i nten d i ng t o fire into

, ,

her at close q u arters B ut she wa s t o o q uick for me

.
,

a n d w e almost met my gun going O ff I b elieve harm

, ,

lessly in h er face I ha d another narro w shave as sh e

, .

again charge d me the li t tl e hors e stu mbling heavily

,

s everal t imes in the frightful groun d A gai n she .

sheere d Off a n d o nce agai n I ro d e up thou g h n o t so

, ,

clos e as befo r e a n d gav e her b oth barrels hol d ing th e

, ,

gun o u t like a pistol S he fel t th ese an d though

.
, ,

shaki n g h er hea d in a threatening ma n ner d i d n o t ,

charge again S he n o w hel d o n slo wly behin d the

.

herd ; a nd as I fel t I coul d n o t kill her wit h this

w eapo n I w aite d behin d ho p ing she w oul d lie d o w n
, ,

and th e h eavy rifles come u p Presently she slacke n ed .

h er pace t o a w alk an d I w atche d h er from behin d a

,

bus h Peeri ng cautiously a ll roun d she w e n t o n a little

.
,

further an d the n after sta nd i ng ab out five minutes

, ,

w atchi ng lay d o w n in the lo n g grass

, I marke d the .
 AN E X P L O RAT I O N IN T H E F A R E AS T . 41 3

s p ot carefully as I thought by a bu sh an d then ro d e

, , ,

back full s p lit for a heavy rifle A bou t a mile behin d .

I met B w ith the ri fl es an d d ogs an d w e p rocee d e d

.
,

together to fi nish o ff the c o w My large rifle ha d got

.

bulge d in o n e barrel some time before bei n g unable t o ,

bear the p roper ch arges for buffalo -shooti ng s o I ha d ,

o n ly o ne barrel to depen d o n We w al ke d u p through

.

th e grass clos e t o th e spo t I h a d m arked but she ,

wa s n o t th ere I soo n los t the b ear i ngs there bei n g

.
,

fifty bushes j ust like the o n e I had mark e d h er by ,

an d w e w andere d about a littl e a p art l ooki ng fo r her

, , .

I had stood u p o n an ant - hill to get a better look w hen ,

j ust belo w me u p starte d her savage - l ook in g hea d and

long h or n s a nd she plu nge d tow ards m e in th e grass
, .

A ball from th e heavy rifle in the neck turned her an d ,

sh e p asse d b et w een B a nd m e preve n ti n g both o f u s

.
,

from further fi ri n g Th e dogs n o w tackle d her

.
,
”
“
Ti nker in p articular (w h os e deeds o f valour in th e
w olf line have already b ee n rec orded ) striving to seize
her by the nose as she tore alo n g A couple Of h u ndre d .

yar d s furth er o n she sto pp ed in an other patch o f grass ,

the d ogs ha y ing round h er a n d Ti n ker exhauste d, ,

by th e great h eat lyi n g d o w n in th e shade Of a bush

, ,

but flyi n g at her th e moment sh e trie d t o m ove We .

marched u p at a shor t i n terval from each other and

, , ,

arrivi n g first on her blind side I s a w her glance at B , .

,

shake o ff th e dogs a nd cree p ing for ward in a stealthy

,

m a n ner like a tiger w atch fo r him w ith horns laid back

, , ,

behin d the s creen o f grass and bushes th at intervened .

Before h e arri ve d h o w ever I took a stea d y shot at her

, ,

neck w ith the littl e double fourteen - gauge rifle d ro pp i ng ,

her stone dead We found sh e ha d a n Ol d bullet w ound

.

in the flank w hich wa s full o f m aggots accounting fo r

, ,

her e xtr e mely p oor con d ition an d unusual s avageness .

414 T HE HIGHLAND S OF CEN T RAL I NDIA .

The s m all -bore r i fle O f o u r p r edecessor in t hese hunti ng

g r ou n ds w a s p r ob ably the cause H e r horns w ere o f
.

full c o w l e n gth th e pair measuri ng eight feet four i n ches

,

rou nd th e curve a nd across the s ku l l .

The h erd w a s n e w cle a n go n e of cours e i n th e , ,

m ea ntime a n d w e tur n ed to w a r ds camp

,
O n the w a y .

B shot a c o w a n d I w ou n ded a bull a nd lost hi m i n

.
, ,

th e lo n g grass While smoki n g our pipes a fter break

.

fas t o n e o f the m en w ho had remai n ed to look afte r

,

t he w ou n ded bull cam e in to say that h e had bee n

fou n d ly in g d o wn in a n ope n plai n abou t a m ile a w ay , ,

looking ve r y savage We sallied forth immediately to

.

e n cou n ter him a n d fou n d him lyi ng c l ose t o a little

,

r i d ge that h a d been th e emba n kme n t of a rice field

w h e n the cou n t r y w a s cul t ivate d a n d w a s n o w ove r
,

gro w n w ith tall grass H e ha d take n u p a positio n

.

w hich comma n ded all approaches a n d as there w a s no , ,

cover there w a s nothi ng for it but to march up o n foot

,
.

I Vhe n w ithi n ab ou t sixty yards I took a shot w ith a

small rifle o n t he accuracy Of w hich I could rely at his
, ,

broad fo reh ead recli ning o n th e ba n k But th e a ngle .

w a s w ro ng a n d t h e ball gla nced Off w ith out i nj ury to

,

t he b ull w ho spra n g o n his feet and retreate d to th e

,

m iddle o f the field Th e dogs w ere n o w loosed a n d

.
,

bayed round him till h e b ega n to chas e th em all rou n d

the field ; b u t as s oo n as o u r heads ap p eared over t he
fri nge o f g rass h e left th em a nd ch a rged do w n at o u r
,

selves There w a s n o sor t O f shelter a n d every o n e had

.
,

to look out for hi mself I stoo d till h e w a s w ith in about

.

- -
half do z en paces a n d then j umped o u t of his course i n
a ,

the grass n o t a m o ment t o o soo n my rifle bei n g whirled

, ,

o u t of my ha n ds a n d its ramrod broken R ecoveri ng it .

,

I fi r ed the u ndisc h arged barrel i nto th e back of his

s hould er and at th e sam e time the re p ort o f B s rifle in
’
, .
41 6 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL IND IA .

a n d p resently the elepha n t d isappeared in som e l o w

j u ngl e a n d th e herd bega n agai n to gra z e Th ey fe el
,
.

do w n to w ards me and w hen abou t seventy yards Off I

,

fi red at t h e leader w ho w a s sta nd i n g en d o n to me a n d

, ,

w a s raked fore a n d aft b y th e h eavy hard ball falli n g , ,

pro n e toes u p w ar ds o n the ground I nstead of retreat

, , .

i ng th e herd n o w gathered about their comrade a n d

, ,

trotted round s n u ffi ng the blood and looki ng ab out fo r

, ,

their conceale d e n emy The w reathing s moke o f my .

rifle betrayed o u r position a n d it w a s not without some ,

alarm that I s a w the m draw u p in a s emicircle O f

'

pa w ing h oofs a nd s n o r ti n g n ostrils surmou nted by forty ,

-
pairs o f mo nst r ous h orn s My gun bearer Peer K ha n .
, ,

a n d I thought d iscretio n the better part o f valour unde r

su ch circumstan ces a n d es p yi ng som e wa y to o u r right

, , ,

the p olla r ded tru nk o f a s aj tree w e retreated snak e , ,

fashio n through the grass an d clambered u p it G etti ng

, , .

t o the top I sat o n its s mooth summit w hil e Peer Kh a n

, ,

roosted cro w - like o n a branch the only o ne a foot o r , ,

t wo lo w er do w n I no w ope n ed fire o n the h er d th e

.
,

first sh ot fr o m the large rifle alm ost knocki n g me Off my

perch with the heavy recoil I believe Peer Kh a n who ,

had reloaded it had put in a d ouble charge o f p o wd er

, .

I the n fire d t wo rounds from th e fourteen - bore the herd ,

pausi n g irresolute and fi nally breaki ng i n to a panic

,

stricke n flight The balls had k n ocked the d ried mu d

.

i n cl ou d s from th eir hides a n d o ne remai n ed sta n d i ng ,

o n the grou n d w hile another lagged very lame b ehi n d

, , ,

the ret r eati ng herd I w ent u p a nd finishe d the first

.
,

a n d then tracked u p the oth er a lo n g w a till it w en t

y ,

w ith the herd i nto a heavy s w amp w hen I retur n ed to ,

camp I did n o t see in th e confusio n w hat became of

.
, ,

the nilga i ; bu t h e w a s no t w ith the herd when it

retreated .
 AN EX P L O RA T I O N IN T HE F AR EAS T . 417

O ur experie n ce Of the wil d buffalo thus d ifferent wa s

from that o f some w ho have reported it t o be a timid
, ,

in o ffe ns 1 v e animal A s is the case w it h most w ild

.

beasts it all depen d s I believe o n w hether y o u press

, , ,

t hem hard o r not ; an d p robably many might b e

sl aughte re d at lo ng ra nges w ithout even eliciting a
c harge I f follo we d u p o n foot I believe the buffalo
.
,

to b e a much more d angerous opponent than the biso n ,

being l ess timid a n d also found in country w here there

,

is u sually no protection to be derive d from trees or

rocks I n Be n gal they are scarcely ever shot in a ny
.

w a y but fr om ele p ha n ts a nd then have been kno w n to

prostrate a n elepha n t in their charge The prime sport .

w ith buffaloes is o n horseback ; but i t is rare that

grou n d is fou n d fit to ride them o n with any degree o f
safety and I n ever heard o f its havi ng been aecom
,

l is he d excepting o n the occasion above relate d I am

p .

sure tho u gh that w it h a hors e clever over roug h

, ,

grou n d a n d a light breech -

, loadi n g carbin e capital ru n s
, ,

a t buffaloes might ofte n be secured by w atchi n g them

i nto favourable grou n d To kill the m with the spear .

w oul d I co n ceive be utterly out o f the question

, , We .

c u t open o n e bull do wn the chest w ith an axe to see ,

what stopped o u r balls s o stra ngely in fr o n t shots a nd ,

fou n d that a bullet fired into th e chest has t o pass

through more than t wo feet o f hi d e bone a nd g risti ea gz , ,
z

b efore reachi n g the cavity Of the lu ngs N or is the .

brai n m ore accessible the a n imal holdi ng its hea d either

,

el evated till th e n ose is level w i t h the eyes o r if , ,

c hargi n g do wn b et ween its fore -

, legs a n d quite pro ,

t e c t e d from a shot A plai n leaden bullet o f a n ou n ce

.

w eight with three drachms o f p o wd er w ill clea

,
g o n ,

through the skull if hit perpe n dicularly w hich ho w , ,

e ver i t is n early impossi ble to d o

, Th e best places to.

2 E
41 8 T HE HIGHLAND S OF C E N T R AL INDIA .

fire both at bison a n d buffalo are through the p oint o f

, ,

t he shoulder if th e rifle be po w erful e n ough o r if n o t

, , , ,

the n behi n d a n d a little above the elb o w The centre Of .

th e n eck is also v ery deadly if the a i m be true natives

,

almost al ways fire there w ith their matchlocks The .

skull a n d horns Of a bull buffal o are so large a nd heavy

as to form a co n si d erabl e encu mbran ce as a tro p hy t o
the sportsman marchi ng fast w ith a l ight camp I ts .

valu e is completely spoilt ho w ever by sawi ng o ff t he

, ,

hor n s a nd thro w i ng aw ay th e skull as is Often d one , .

Th e better w a y is to boi l a way the flesh an d w ait a fe w ,

d ays till the h orn - sheaths loosen o n th e b ony cores ,

w he n they can b e taken O ff an d the cores sa w n do wn

, ,

leavi ng o n ly a fe w inches to give the set o f the horn s .

I n doi ng this the w onderfu l p rovision fo r giving requi

,

site st r e ngth to the structure w ithout u n d u e w eight by

, ,
.

co n stru cti n g the bo ny cores like h ollo w cells cro ss e d by ,

stays in every directio n w ill n o t fail t o b e p erceived

, .

We marche d o n d o wn the valley of the J Onk through

tracts o f s a l m ostly devastate d by dhy a cultivation t o
, ,

the Mah a nadi a n d then alo ng it and its tributary the

, ,

A rp a to th e littl e civi l s tation o f B i l a sp u r w here we

, ,

arrived o n the 2 8 t h o f A pril and b egan to make ar

,

ra ngeme n ts for an expedi t ion to the elephant hau n ts i n

the gr eat s a l fo rest t o the north Of that station I t w a s .

repo r ted t o b e scarcely i nhabited exce p t by a fe w utterly

sav a ge Bhumia s ; a n d it w a s certai n that no su pp lies
of a n sort w ould be p rocurable O first busi n es
y u r . s

w a s th e r efore to hire a large h erd o f B anj a r a bullocks

, , ,

w ith their drivers and load them u p w ith grai n a n d such

,

wa s th e n th e land -locked condition o f this fertile country

that w e purchase d as much w heat gram a nd rice as we, ,

requi r ed at the rate o f about 1 0 0 lbs for a shilling ! .

O n th e 3rd o f May we ro d e o u t t o R ata n p u r t he ,

4 20 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL I NDIA .

L y i ng a l o w hollo w bet ween surroun d i n g emi

in
n ences the
, foul w ater -
ta nks feti d w ith the slime o f
,

ce nturies breed amo ng the peopl e O f R atanp u r every

,

s ort o f loathsome disease ; and every where th e hideous

leper and su fferer from elepha ntiasis a r e seen stalki ng
, ,

gloomily abou t i n the shado w s o f these decayi ng groves .

I w a s myself d esti n ed to share in the pestile n ce that is

rapidly d epopul ati n g the place C omi n g i n heated fro m.

o u r ride and the t e n ts n o t h a ving a r rive d I w a s foolish

, ,

enough to thro w myself do wn o n a st ring bedstead I

found u nder a tree a n d go to sleep an d in the eve n i ng ,

found m y self overtake n by a sensatio n w hich I did no t

recog nise I t w a s feve r but n o t that O f the malaria I had
.
,

become accustomed to N ext m orn i ng I m arche d

.
,

tho u gh very ill ten miles to th e nex t halti ng -

,
place a nd
the day after b ei ng much w orse wa s carried o n six
, ,

miles fu rther A fter tossi n g about all n ight I suddenly

.

felt relieved from t he burning fever and became aw are ,

Of a fine crop o f small -pox pustules o n my feet This .

promised to be the en d of my ex p lorations ; bu t as I ,

ha d b een duly vaccinated I ho p ed th e attack might b e

,

a light o ne an d determi n ed not to return to the station

,

while a hope remained o f accom p lishing my desire to

see the ele p ha nt - cou ntry I t w a s very ho t w here w e
.

n o w w ere ; but abou t seven miles further o n rose a hig h

co nical hill cro wn e d by an o l d fortress called L a a fa g a r h

, , ,

w hich seemed to possess an elevation o f at least

feet ; and as on i nquiri ng abou t it I fou n d there w a s
, ,

shade and w ater o n the top I d etermined to get myself ,

c a rried up there to a cooler temperature and fight ,

th r ough it w ith the help o f th e worthy though not very

skilful native apothecary attache d t o o u r camp while B , .

w e nt off to do as mu ch o f th e ex p loration as p ossible in

th e meantime N ext morning I wa s carried up to a

.
 AN E X P L O RA T I O N IN T HE F AR EAS T . 42 1

small village half- w a y u p t he hill a n d w hich th e aneroid ,

s ho w ed to b e ab out feet above the sea H ere I .

w a s m e t by th e Tha krr r o f L a a fa the la n do w ner o f a

’

co n siderabl e hilly tract round about L a a fa g a r h w ho , ,

w ith the utm ost civility l ed th e w a y to a commo d ious ,

hut he had prepa r ed fo r my accommodatio n o f l eafy ,

boughs from the forest u nder the shade o f a l ar ge ba n ,

a n tree w hile my te n t w a s bei n g m ade com fo rta b le i n

y ,

the Old fort o n the top of t he hill A gan g o f w ild .

Bhum ia s from the T ha krr r s hil l vill ages had been col
' ’

l ec t e d to carry up my thi n gs ; a n d throughout t he d a y

I w a s i ntervie w ed by little k n ots Of th em who w ould ,

steal t o th e door o f th e hut squat d o wn o n thei r hams , ,

w ith th eir axes hitched o ver thei r arms a n d their f u nn y

little leaf pipes stuck b ehi n d their ea r s a nd remai n ,

p e r fectly co n te n ted as lo ng as w e let them dri nki ng in ,

the stra nge appeara nce a n d su r rou ndi ngs o f the sahibs .

Without his form ida b le battle -axe (to ng ia) a n d his leaf
p ip e (cho n g ee) y o u w ill rarely see the Bhri mia of these
easter n regio n s The pipe is t w isted i n a fe w seco nds
.

ou t of th e l eaf o f th e pal a s tree a p eculia r t wist maki ng

*
,

th e b o w l a n d its n a rr o w neck i n the most perfect

m a n n er I t looks si mple but I n ever could acquire
.
,

th e k n a ck o f it a n d my pipes al ways came to pieces

,

b efore they w ere w ell lit The Bht rm ia s smok e the m .

’

o n ce o r t wice a nd the n m ake a nother,

They .

spok e capital H i n di a n d w e r e n o t at all shy i n ,

co nversati o n th ough w ilde r i n appeara nce eve n

,

tha n those of their race w ho live i n th e M a ndl a

district H ere th e t r i be is k no w n o nly by the n ame
.

o f Bhrr m ia the t er m By g a which i s thei r commoner

’

, ,

tribal n ame in Man dl a b ei ng rest r icted t o their p riests ,

B a l ea fr o nd osa ,
afte r w hich the w h le d ist ict
o r of Bil a s prrr
'
is
n a me d .
42 2 T HE HIGHLAND S OF CEN T RAL I NDIA .

a nd medicine -men in these more eastern regions I t .

w a s queer to s ee w h at t ri fles suffice d t o bri ng a gri n

o f delight o n their black a n d u n han d s om e b ut g ood
humoured counte n a nces Their broadest gri n s were .

elicited by my three lemon and - - white spa n iels w he n ,

th ey sat u p in line t o beg — Wah K o o k u r ! Koo -O O “

Koo - ra exclaime d a m o n g them testifying their ,

delight ; a n d w he n th e visitors w ho h ad b ee n i nitiated

t o this a w ful mystery w ere exclude d from the hut to
let me have a sleep I s a w them through the l eafy , ,

w all form a de p utation fro m the w hole p opulatio n

,

o f th e place to solicit my d o g -
, boy t o give o ne more
exhibitio n by th e a id o f a bone o f th e w on d erfu l
, ,

“
p erformi n g ko oku r s F o r days after wards fresh
arties o f these simpl e savages use d to come u t o my
p p
tent o n the hill an d sit do w n over against me in the
,

hope o f seei ng th e w on d erfu l s p ectacle th e ne ws Of ,

w hich w a s carried I believe t o the uttermost en d s

, ,

o f this w il d erness When o u r elephants arrive d from

.

belo w w ith my tent an d th i ngs (there w a s a path w ay

as far as the village ) all th e Bhrrmia s salute d the m
’

by p l aci ng a h a n d o n their broa d foot p ri nts an d then

touching their forehea d s Th e w ild elephants w ere .

t ruly a s they sai d th e r aj a s a nd d emons o f their

, ,

country at t hat time w anderi ng whither they liste d , ,

and dev a stati ng their fields o f hill rice at w ill S O as .

,

u sual w ith the offensive p o wers of n ature among these

tribes they w ere ranked and p ropitiate d as an ex p ression
,

Of th e D eity The n ext morni ng I wa s carried u p t o

.

t he to p Of the hill w here my tent had been p itched

,

under a shady tree by the ba n ks o f a small tank w hich ,

in olden d ays had b een excavate d fo r a su pp ly o f w ater

to the fort The w a y u p wa s a stee p zigzag o f 7 30
.

feet . N ear the to p a clear scarp o f light gray roc k

 424 T H E HIGHLANDS OF C E NTR AL INDIA .

m id d le -
aged m a n , claimi ng t o b e a p ure Raj p u t , an d
a descendant o f th e ancient dy n asty o f Ra t a nprrr w hose ’

stro ngh old for m a ny fy ea r s wa s the fort of L a a fa g a r h H e '

bro u ght m e nu merous d elicacies p roduced by his w ilds ,

amo ng w hich t wo w ere particularly acceptable namely , ,

a fi n e pure arro w root (Tikur ) made from the roots Of

,

th e w ild Cu r c u ma a u g u s ttf o lz a a nd a beautiful small

' '

grain calle d S iker w hich is n othi ng but th e produce Of

’

old pla nts o f th e grai n called [g a la (p a ni c u m) ge n e ,

rally cultivated by th ose hill t r ibes i n their dhy a

cleari ngs A fter a clearing has bee n aba n do n ed the
.
,

p la n ts o f K u tk i ra p idly dege n erate a n d in their third ,

a n d fourth y e ar th e grai n has becom e this S iké r I t is .

m u ch smaller t ha n the fully cultivated grai n but als o ,

mu ch s w e ete r a nd w ith a nutty fl avour abou t it w hich

, ,

is particularly delicious V ery little o f it is gathered

.
,

the labour being grea t for a small resu l t ; bu t it is

so m u ch a p preciat ed as to b e generally ke p t for the
P u r s lt a ol o r sacrificial foo d o f the gods
, I t m a d e t he .

b est porridge I ever taste d The T ha krrr ha d been a

.
’

mighty hunter i n th e d ays o f his yout h a n d wa s fu l l o f ,

yar n s o f his s p ort I rem ember fe w o f th em a nd w a s

.
,

too listless at that time to n o te th em d o wn H e sho w ed .

me a scar receive d from a man - eati n g tiger w hich h e ,

a n d a n other had done to d eath w ith thei r b o w s a n d

arro ws H e tol d me mu ch ab out the w ild el e p hants

.
,

w hich w a n dere d all over his o wn a n d th e neighbouri n g

chieftai n cies their h ead -
, q uarters bei ng in M a t i n a n d
Upr o r a about t we nty -
,
fi v e m iles t o the n orth H e o n ly .

k n e w of o n e Of thes e a n imals havi n g ever b een killed by

a native H e wa s a very o l d male w ith a broke n tusk
.
, ,

a n d w a s sh ot in th e tru n k w ith a bis a r o r p oiso ned

”
,

arro w from a tree by th e Bhrr mia w hose rice -

’

, fi e ld he
,

w a s d evastating belo w H e w a n dered long in th e

.
 AN E X P L O R AT I O N IN T HE F AR EAS T . 4 25

n eighb ouri ng j u ngle gro w i ng thi n an d w eak and at last

, ,

sa nk d o w n helpless in a w ater -pool w here h e ha d go n e ,

to b ath e his m iserabl e body Then a neighb ouri n g .

T ha krr r came a n d fired all day i nto hi m fr om his match

’

lock t wo bu shels o f bullets bei ng take n from his carcase

,

after h e expired .

“
H e had a n other story of a loath l y w orm that ,

—
h au nts t he forests Of the U pr o r a cou n t y slimy a n d
r

h orrid lik e a great cate r pillar a cu b it a n d a half in ,

thick n ess a n d dull gray i n co l our w ith a scarlet h ea d

, , ,

t o look upo n w hich w a s deat h M a n y had see n it but .

,

n o n e ha d lived to tell th e t ale O n pressi n g him as to .

the so u rce Of th e accurate po r t r ait o f th e m onster h e

had dra w n for m e si n ce all w ho had see n it ha d died
,

h e w a s at n o loss for a reply The T ha krrr o f Up r o r a

'

w a s travelli ng w ith a n atte n dant b ehi n d him w hen a t

, ,

the crossi n g o f a stre am the latter called o u t What is ,

“

that g r eat slimy cate r pillar - like m o nster w ith a scarlet

”
h ea d etc 7 o n w hich his ma s ter w arned hi m n ot t o
,
.

l ook at it a n d did n o t do so himself H e w a s too late

, .
,

h o w ever for the servant wa s dead i n a fe w m ome n ts

,
.

E v e ni ng after eve ni ng I sat o n th e highest poi nt o f

th e hill liste n i ng t o t he i n cessan t music o f the m yriad “

”
crickets that seemed to p erm eate every nook a n d
c r an n y o f the hill a n d its coveri n g o f trees a n d gazi ng ,

o ver the vast forest p rospe ct s p read b elo w T o th e .

'

s outh the Ope n p l ai n Of Cha t t is g a r h fr om w hich we

had come t o the n or t h th e great g r ee n w il d e r n ess o f the
,

el e pha n t co u ntry dotted here and there w ith isolat ed

,

hills A lo n g valley led u p i nto this r egio n from the

.

foot o f L a a fa g a r h in w hich a fe w specks of village

,

cl eari ngs coul d b e see n E very w here else w a s utter

.

w aste . Far t o the w est a pi nk promo nto r y glo w e d

hazily in th e setting s u n Tha t w a s A marka ntak t he .
,
4 26 T HE HIGHLAND S OF C E NT RAL INDIA .

source o f the N arbad a to w hich I took the re a d er at the

,

o p e ni ng o f this chapter .

Ma ny wild a n imals had their haunts in the w oo d e d

slopi ng skirts o f the hill Th e harsh grati ng roar o f the
.
,

p anther w a s h eard nearly every night s a mbar deer w ere

sometimes seen picki ng their w a y up th e hill from the
plains in th e ea rly morni ng ; an d once I s a w a black bear
hurryi ng u p the rocks to his caver n l o ng after the su n
ha d risen G a ngs Of H a num a n m onkeys stalke d ab ou t
.

th e rui n ed ram p arts an d th e precipice they cro wne d .

On th e t o p w ere m a n y h a res peafo wl a nd p ai n ted , ,

partri d ges ; a nd my dogs ha d e n dless chas es after th e

yello w w il d c a t f an d th e tree c a t I w hich w ere bot h
’f
,

more numerous o n this b ill th an a ny w here els e I h av e

seen them O n ce w h e n strolli ng rou n d the cam p in th e
.

dusk looki ng for a sho t at the gree n p igeons w hic h

, ,

every n ight came to fee d o n the w ild fruits I s a w ,

a p air o f gleaming eyes looki ng do wn o n m e from t he

d ark shado w o f an overhangi ng b a nya n tree ; an d a
charge Of N O 4 brought do w n among the dogs a fine re d
.

ly n x 1 w hich they soo n despatche d in his w ou n d e d con

,

d ition I t takes hard fighti n g fo r the best o f dogs

.

to kill an u n wou n de d lynx as my p ack kne w t o thei r ,

cost .

I p ine d sadly over my im p risonment o n the t o p o f

this b ill The climat e w a s milder by man y degrees
.

than it ha d been b elo w w ith n o ho t w i nd eve n a t t his

, ,

height o f the summer seaso n ; and it w a s in par t icular

d elightfu l ly cool at night But there w ere o n ly a fe w
.

w eeks remai n i ng o f the d r y seaso n ; a n d w e had t o

march nearly t wo hu ndred m iles aft er l eavi n g the
e le p hant cou n try to get i n to J u bb u l rrr
p so as soon as I ’

F . clra u s .
f P a r a d oxu s mu sa ng a .

1 F . Ca r a ca l .
428 TH E HIGHLANDS OF C EN T RAL INDIA .

th eir to p branches Th e li mit o f their p o w ers in over

.

th r o w i ng trees a p pe a red ho w ever t o be co nfi ne d t o

, ,

those o f n o t more tha n ab ou t eight i n ch es i n diameter ,

a n d my experie nce w ith trai n ed tame eleph a n ts leads t o »

a similar co ncl u sio n E v e n th ese are n o t torn u p by

.

the roots but m erely bor ne d o wn by the application o f

,

th eir full w eight by mea n s o f th e foreh ead a n d o ne foot

, ,

or as the n atives here assured m e o f th e ster n T he

, ,
.

tal es o f some A fric a n travellers o f elepha n ts employi ng

l arge t r ees as proj ectiles (o ne d eclares h e s a w t wo tree s
o f eightee n i nch es diameter t orn u p a n d h urled t e n o r

t w el v e yards ) m ust b e utter myths A broad trac k .

th r ough t he j u ngl e like a high - , roa d le d Off in t he ,

di r ectio n tak e n by the h erd ; a nd w here they had ,

crossed the d ry sa ndy b e d Of the M a ti n rive r thei r ,

tracks o f e v ery size rangi ng from that Of th e tuske r

,

’
o f a foot a n d a hal f d iameter t o the you ng ster s t he
si z e of a teacup sho w ed that the herd mus t have n u m
,

be r ed some fift y o r six ty i n divid u als I w a s of cou rse

.

q u ite unabl e to fo ll o w them i n my p rese n t co n ditio n .

I n th e aft er n oo n w hen I w a s aslee p s ome o f t h e

, ,

Bhrr mia s cam e i n w i t h n e w s of a solitary tusker bei n g

’

w ithi n half a mil e Of the camp 111 as I w a s I coul d

.

n o t sta n d this so getti n g o n my p o ny i n sl ee p i ng

, ,

d ra w ers a nd slippers j us t as I w a s I w e n t o u t at ,

leas t to se e him H e w a s sta ndi n g i n the sa n dy b e d

.

of the Ma ti n river w h e r e h e had dug o u t a grea t

,

h ole do w n to the m oisture bel o w th e su r face and ,

plas t ered himself all over w ith th e w e t s a nd to kee p

o ff the flies . H e w a s a very l arge tusker resembli ng ,

th e N ep a l b r eed i n shape The o n ly striki ng di ffere n c e

.

I noticed bet w ee n hi m a n d domesticate d ele p ha n ts

w a s the mu ch greater fl es lr ines s o f his neck a nd fore
quarters a ci rcu mstance also to he remarked in t he
,
 AN EX P L OR A T I O N IN T H E F A R EAS T . 429

w il d buffalo bull as com p are d w i t h th e tame s p ecies

, .

H e stood lea ni n g o n his tusks agai ns t the ba nk gently ,

s w aying his tail about an d s eemingly half asleep

, .

Ther e wa s no w a y o f getting nearer hi m than about

a hun d re d an d fift y yards —much too far to shoot at an

e lephant ; a nd I sat lo n g w atching hi m i n the h ope

that he w oul d move but he didn t ,

Then I w e n t
’
.

a n d fou n d th e roa d h e ha d taken d o w n the steep bank

O f the river an d poste d myself behi n d it se ndi ng a

, ,

Bh11 mia rou n d a lo ng w a y to give him his w i n d It

’

wa s interesti n g t o see the ele p hant w hen h e caught

the first whi ff o f t he savage H e still stoo d l ea ni n g
.

o n his tusks b ut his tail ceased to s w ay an d the p oint

, ,

O f his trunk w a s curl e d rou n d b elo w his c a r in the

direction o f th e scent w hile his ears stoo d c o oke d t o
,

c atch the fai n test sou n d L o ng he stood thus perfectly

.
,

Th e Bhrr mra soon g o t more d irectly to

’

motio n less .

w i n d w ar d though s t ill u n s een by the elepha n t a n d g o t

, ,

u
p a tree . Those w il d creatures ha d a w holes om e drea d
o f this j u ngle deity o f theirs i t seeme d
, Then the .

elepha n t ge ntly w alke d ou t Of his hole an d n ever a ,

look did h e take to wards the foe ; slo wly a nd heav ily
making for a noth er pass u p the bank a coupl e o f
hun d re d yar d s fro m where I wa s I stole along through
.

the grass as near this p oint as I could w ithout comi ng

in to his vie w an d agai n sat d o w n by an elephant path
,

u p which I hoped he w oul d come A nd I w a s n o t

.

mistake n for after a breathless pause Of a mi n ute o r

,

so,
his great solemn forehead and gleami n g tusks a p
ea red w avi n g to a n d fro as h e move d and w ithin
p , ,

e ight
y o r n i n ety paces o f my post I fel t s u re o f hi m
.

w ith my big rifle if he cam e along the path an d ,

d etermine d not to fire till he wa s q uite close A bout .

forty y ar d s o n ly n o w intervene d bet ween us an d I ,

4 30 T HE HIGHLANDS OF C E N T R AL INDIA .

wa s lifting the rifle t o my eye w hen a short co u gh

,

behind caused m e to l ook roun d and th ere o h horror !

, ,

wa s a tall figure clad in a yello w coat a nd brigh t

,

red turba n sta nd i ng o n an a n t -

,
hill a nd strivi ng t o
get up a tree ! I nstantly I turne d agai n to the elepha n t ;
b u t all I s a w w a s his vast round stern i n full retreat
through the trees I t wa s a little p rovoking and I did
.
,

no t bless very mu ch the o wner o f that yello w garme n t

a s I sped alo ng fra ntically after the va n ishi n g tusker I .

rememb er n o m ore than this till I foun d mysel f being

,

supporte d o n my po ny back to cam p Th ey sai d I

.

had fallen senseless i n the grass aft er runni n g abo u t a

hu n dred yards . Th e culprit w a s a relative o f th e
Th a k u r o f M a ti n w ho had stolen o u t after m e and
, , ,

comi n g up u nperceived in t he grass ha d lain still ,

enough till th e formi d able as p ect o f t he man - killer

had overcome his Opium - shaken n erves H e looked s o
.

utterly w retched and asham e d o f himse l f that I coul d

not tell him a ll that I thought o f him There w a s also
.

rather a panic abroa d j ust at the time as n o t l o n g ,

befo r e a y ou ng son o f the T ha kt rr o f Upr o r a ha d b ee n

'

take n o u t after som e elepha n ts w hich had come d o wn

ne a r the p lai ns by som e sportsme n fro m Bila sprrr ; a nd
’

a large tusker chargi ng d o wn o n them aft er h avi ng ,

been follo w ed an d shot at fo r half a day wa s trampled ,

u p before h e c oul d get clear I t w a s a terrible d is

.

appointment a n d neither B nor I ever had a n other

,
.

chance at a n eleph a nt w hich we migh t shoot I ma d e .

a n u mber o f little excursio n s from M a ti n t o the p ri ncipal

elepha n t hau nts o f the n eighbourhood A ll about there
.

w ere g r eat qua n tities of game o f other sorts spotte d ,

dee r alo ng the n a l a s an d red deer in nearly every

,

glad e o f the s a l forests Bears w ere numerous a nd

.
,

I sa w a fe w p ro w ling ab ou t in the early mor ning but , ,

4 32 T HE HIGHLAND S OF CEN T R A L INDIA .

O n th e 2 6 t h , B rej oi ne d me havi ng covere d a grea t

.
,

exte n t of cou nt r y by dint of hard marchi ng a nd ex ,

l r e d the easter n por t io n O f t he s a l forest and elephan t

p o

c ou ntry which b elo ngs to the T ha krr r o f Upr o r a H e

'

had seen little ga m e and had never staye d to shoot

, .

From M a ti n w e p r oceeded agai n together due n orth to , ,

exami ne the cou ntry b et w een this and A marka nt ak ;

and till t he end o f th e month w e travelle d o n through
a n u nbroke n fores t Of the s a l tree T his wild is very
.

s ca n tily p eo p le d by a fe w utte r ly primitive Bhrr mia s

'

a sight o f w hom coul d only b e s ecure d by sendi n g

o n an embassy o f some Of their o w n tribesme n w ho m ,

w e to ok w ith u s fr o m M a t i n O ne o n e occasion I
.

had w a n dere d Off th e elephant track that s erved for

a roa d in these parts i nto the thick s a l forest w ith
, ,

ou t a guide trusti n g t o regai n i t after a sh or t d et o u r

, .

B ut the count r y is here so l e vel an d the prospec t s o

,

circumsc r ibed by the n ever-e n ding array o f great gray

stems of the s a l that I soon fou n d I had e n tirely lost
,

my w a y while the midday s u n ha ngi n g like a globe

, ,

o f glo wing silver right overhea d thre w o n ly ver t ical

,

shado ws w hich afforde d n o guide to th e poi nts o f th e

,

compass I wa s ridi ng o n a n ele p hant a n d we wa n dere d

.
,

o n fo r so m e h ours through gla d e after glade a n d clum p

after clump o f the s a l trees each exactly like the o n e

,

before i t till at l ast w e emerged into a little ope n s p ace

, ,

w here a fe w tal l n ake d stems o f s a l trees killed by ri n g

in g stood u p fr om amo n g a thick co p se Of bushes spru n g
fr om the roots o f the cleared forest I n th e middle wa s .

a small Bhrr mia hamlet o f a fe w huts o f bamboo basket

’

w ork surrou n d ed by a fe n ce o f the same material

, We .

marched u p t o the l ittl e wicket - gate o f this enclosure ,

a n d the barking o f a d og brought o u t the t wo o r three

i nhabitants To stare wil d ly like startl e d deer a t the

.
 AN EX P LO R AT I O N IN T HE F A R EAS T . 4 33

a m azi n g sight o f an elepha n t ridde n by a white m a n ,

fl y o ver the fence w ith a shriek an d p lunge into the ,

thick copse -w ood o f th e little cleari ng wa s the w ork o f ,

a mome nt But I could n o t do w ithout a gui d e t o

.

r egai n th e roa d a n d pushe d i n th e elephan t after th em

,
.

I t w a s j ust for a ll the w orld like beating hog - deer o u t o f

thick bush - cover the n ake d black savages lyi n g close in
,

t he thickets till t he elephant p ut her foot almost o n the

t o p o f them w hen they b olted o u t an d ran crouching
,

a cross to another patch I though t w e w ould never

.

catch o n e u n til the ma n behind m e sli pp e d do w n the

,

’
ele p han t s tail a n d ran round int ercepting a lad in the ,

act o f leavi ng the last o f the u n d er w oo d fo r th e open

forest Whe n lai d hol d o f he struggled a little bu t
.
,

s oo n resig n ed himself trembling in every limb t o his

, ,

fate I t w a s ma n y mi n utes before we could get him to

.

s p eak at all a blank shake o f the hea d m eeti n g every

,

q u estion b efore he could have hear d i t A t last after .

,

m uch reass u ri n g a nd comforting w ith presents Of ,

tobacco a n d the almighty rupee a nd the w ithdraw al o f ,

the ele p han t t o a dista n ce he found a to n g u e a nd that

, ,

i n good broad H i nd u but o n ly to declare that he kne w

,

n othi n g Of the roa d ; a n d i n dee d as w e w ere m aki ng

, ,

fo r n othi n g m ore defi n ite than a w ater -hole in the forest

r ej oici n g in th e n am e o f Bo o g loog ee I dare say the ,

poor yo u th s p oke th e truth We i n sisted o n his tryi ng

.
,

h o wever a nd at last he starte d taki n g the w a y back to

, ,

the huts and peeri ng about amo ng the bushes as if h e

,

h ad lost something Presently h e put his ha nd to his

.

m outh and gave a su ccessio n o f p iercing yells th e last ,

o f w hich w a s a n s w ere d from the co p se - w ood and i n a ,

w hile a ve r y o l d w rinkl e d little man crept o u t h ol d i ng ,

his han ds across his shrivelle d stomach t o deprecate the

w rath o f the riders o n the el ephantine go d s Of the forest .

2 F
4 34 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

M ore tobacco a nd
another bright ru p ee a n d th e sight of ,

the youth safe and soun d after his a w ful adventure ,

bro u ght a grin over th e highly simia n counte na n ce o f

this ancie n t ; a nd th e pair Of them first divi n g i n to a ,

b u t for their p ipes a n d axes stalked a w ay befo re u s ,

through th e trees S oo n they got quite chatty gabbli n g

.
,

an d grinni ng t o th emselves about the elephant a n d its

riders o n w hom ho w ever they ke p t a sharp look -
, , , out
over their sh o u l d ers O n ce o r t w ice I made the ele
.

phan t take short runs close u p behi n d the m t o try thei r

nerves ; a n d th e alacrity w ith w hich they skip p ed
behi n d the n earest trees an d chu ckle d and gri nn ed
,

from their secure p ositio n s w a s w orth seei n g Th ey

,
.

took u s straight across cou n try t o Bo o g l o o g e e w ithout

a mistake and w hen w e g o t there an d set them do wn ,

amo n g their tribesmen t o fill themselves with veniso n ,

an d wheat - fl o u r fro m o u r store they w ere p erfectly ,

happy .

The Bhrr mia s o f t hese p arts are m uch wilder than

’

those o f th e Man d l a district cultivating not at all a nd

, ,

subsisti ng solely by their bo w s and arro ws an d th e ,

roots a n d fruits o f th e j u n gle a n d collecting th e damm er

,

resi n o f the s a l tree to barter for t he fe w necessaries Of

life not produ ced by th eir w ilds w ith the traders w ho
resi d e at th e hea d - quarters of th eir T ha krr rs They
'

have scarcely an idea o f the use Of coi n ed m oney the ,

rare ru p ees that reach them being pierce d an d w orn as

or naments by th e w ome n They are said t o have .
,

besi d es their little hamlets i n the forest a retrea t in ,

some still more secluded w il d k n o w n o n ly to the family

,

it belo ngs to in w hich all their w orl dly s ubstance

,
’
beyond a fe w days supply is kept an d to which th ey ,

are ready to fly at a mom ent s n otice The s a l forest ’

.

ha s thus here esca p ed much o f the devastatio n it has

4 36 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN TR AL INDI A .

C onsideri ng that their coss is derive d fro m so in d efinite

a b asis as the dista ce at hich a yell from a hill top
n w -
ca n b e hear d it is little surprisi ng if th e coss itself
,

sh ould b e u n certai n This is their table o f long

.

m easu re :
2 yel l s 1 d ab ( b itto ck a or

2 b itt cks
“
1 o c oss ,

1 2 c ss I d a y s m a ch
’
o r

w hich seems to be about thirty m iles .

I n the j u ngles of K end a a nd P e ndr a w hich for m ,

the most easte r ly sectio n Of this forest a n d lie right ,

u n der th e ra nge of the My ka l hills great n u mbers o f ,

w ild buffaloes w ere reported to u s ; b ut w e had n o t time

at this seaso n to stop to look after them D oubtless i t .

is chi efly to these regio ns that they retire fr om th e

Ma ndl a u pla n ds w h e n the latter are i n vaded by the
grazi ng of d omest ic cattle .

S o fa r as w e could learn an area o f about ,

square miles w a s occu pied by herds o f w il d elepha nts ,

w hose n u mber w e estimate d fro m all accou nts to ra nge

, ,

from t w o hu n d r e d to th r ee hu nd red They u n dou b tedly .

did very seriou s dam a ge to th e cro p s in th e n eighbour

hO O d °

and for many years th e a nn ual trib ute o f the

Th aku r s w hose p ossess io n s they disturbed had b ee n
remi t ted o n this accou n t The people w ere totally
.

u na b l e to d efe n d th emselves fr om such po w erful foes ,

a n d m ost o f the v illa es l met w ith o n t he borders Of

g
the j u n gle are fu r nished w ith platfo r ms in high t r ees to ,

w hich the people w ere accustome d to retreat o n the

occu rr e n ce of a n i n vasio n S hooti n g at w ild elephan ts
.

o n ly i n c r eases the damage th ey occasio n by breaki ng ,

u
p the herds a n d sprea d i n g th eir rav a ges over a larger
a r ea a nd besides to shoot an elepha n t is like ha n gi ng
, ,

a m a n th e w orst use that can be m ad e o f him A fter a

, .
 AN E X P LO RA T I O N IN T H E F A R E AS T . 4 37

good d eal o f reporti ng a n d corres p o nd e n ce the G overn ,

m e n t Of I n dia w a s i n duced to send do w n o n e o f its

regularly orga n ise d elepha nt - catchi ng establishme nts to
these w ilds w hich attacked the herds d uri ng the years
,

1 8 6 5 to 1 8 6 7 The s y stem pursu e d in this cou ntry wa s

.

some w hat peculiar a nd has been thus describe d by an

,

eye - wit n ess

S everal m odes o f capture w ere tried here but the ,

m ost successfu l w a s a simple stockade erected hurriedly

in o ne Of th e ru n s n ear the spo t w h ere the elephan ts
w e r e tracked To make this process successful a very
.
,

large establishme nt is require d for all necessary arra n ge ,

me n ts t o be o f a ny use must be ma d e at once A rough .

ri n g-fe n ce o f bamboos is thro wn roun d a l a rge area ,

traversi ng i n ci r cumfere n ce some t wo o r three miles ,

w ithi n w hich the elepha n ts have lots o f movi n g room .

This e n closure must co n t a i n w ater a nd fodder o r the ,

elepha nts are certai n t o break through A t every fe w .

p aces there are t w o coolies who re l ieve o n e a n other and ,

by striki n g the fe n ce w ith a stick kee p u p a conti nual ,

clatter The n at every hun d red yards o r s o there is a

.
,

matchlock - ma n su p plied with blank ammu n itio n N ear .

this fe n ce th e j u ngle is cleared s o that at a ny p oi nt the,

elephants make for they are at o n ce v isible an d w hen

, ,

they are s een approachi ng a rush o f me n occurs to th e,

threate n ed locality w ith an imme n se shouti n g a nd firi n g

o f m atchlocks This has the effect o f drivi ng the herd
.

back a nd as it is at night that these efforts are chiefly

,

necessary they entail m u ch w atchfulness and la b our

, .

I n fact at night the whole circl e is as it w ere a blaze

, , , ,

for each party has lighted a gra n d p ile o f w oo d These .

fires surround the ele p hants in a ri ng Of light which ,

R e p o t n the S ettle me nt f the

r o o Bila sp ri r d ist ict
r of the C entral
P r ov i n ces b y J W C hish o l m Esq
,
. .
,
.
4 38 T HE HIGHLAN D S OF CEN T RAL I NDIA .

th ey b elieve the m selves po w e r less to br e ak through ,

especially as th ey are assailed w ith all the d in o f ba t tle

if th ey appr o ach too n ea r so that it is a sh eer case o f
,

desper a tio n or gross carel ess ness o r a w eak establish

, ,

me n t if they su cceed i n get t i ng out From a n eigh

,
.

ho u r ing camp th e sce n e is e x ci t i ng e n ough for the hill ,

s i d e resou n ds w i t h sh outi n g a n d th e disch a r ge o f bla n k

,

ammu niti o n se ems i ncessa n t pa r tly fr o m n ecessity a nd

, ,

par t ly from the i n here nt aff ectio n a n A siatic has for

n oise .A ll t his t ime th e stocka d e i s p r og r essi ng made ,

o f imm e n se piles o f w ood capable o f s t a n ding a ny

,

cha r ge a n d e n closi ng a fe w hu ndred square yards Of

,

g r ou nd The eleph a n t ru ns a r e clearly marked -

. out

tracks to w hi c h they u su a lly ke ep Th e stocka d e is o n

, .

o n e of them wi t h a n ope n gate at o n e extremity fr om

, ,

w hich a n i m me n se arm o f pile d logs stretches o n either

side so that the rush may b e o n ce the arms are e n te r ed
, , ,

i nto the si ngl e o pe n ing that has bee n l eft The fi rs t .

d a y afte r th e sto cka d e i s fi n ished th e drivi n g comme n ces .

I f fortu n e sm i les o n ce the h erd is started by shouti ng

,

a n d firi n g i n their re a r th ey make a rush for t he

,

stockade r u n and are e ncl osed w ithout further trouble ;

if n o t t hey require to be d r ive n s everal t imes — a
,

service Ofte n o f difficul t y a n d da nger Whe n e nclosed .

,

the dec o y eleph a nts wi t h trai n ed m e n are empl o y ed fo r

”
noosi n g a n d t y i ng them .

A n e no rmous area Of th e t r act w e travelled o ver i n ,

th e n eighb ourhood o f th e H a s drr river a nd its t ri butaries

’

w a s f u n d to be full o f c oal measu r es w hich h ave si n ce

o
,

b e e n professio nally exami ne d a n d rep or t ed to f ur n rs h

,

m i ne r al o f a highly valu a ble char a c t er Bu t t he .

e xtre m e re m ote ness o f th e se regio n s fr om a n Of t h e

y
g r e a t ce n t res of c o nrmer c e o r t r a ns p o rt puts o u t o f
t he qu e stio n a n i m mediate utilisation e i t he r o f t lr
y
440 T HE HIGHLANDS OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

thought that before w e reached J u bbu lprrr o n the 1 6 t h

’

o f J u ly I should have had to sit d o w n decently and

,

give u p the ghost I ha d marche d clos e o n a thous and

.

miles in cha nges o f cam p alone si n ce I left the station i n

the p rece d i n g Jan u ary H o w m uch m ore should b e .

added for o u r ex p lorations it w oul d not b e easy t o

say .

The monsoon burst a d ay o r t wo after ; a nd in the

comfor t Of the beautiful little station and its pleasan t ,

society I soo n g o t over my tro u bles I w a s v ery muc h

,
.

broken in health ho we ver by constant ex p osure to t he

, ,

malaria Of the j u ngles at all seaso ns o f the year ,

.

I h ad never lost the remains Of the fever I ha d c o n

tracte d t he previous year ; a nd I may a dd never did , ,

s o till I had a trip to E nglan d .

I have no i n tention o f attempting a treatise o n

I n d ian forestry fo r which in d eed there are as yet fe w
, , ,

available materials ; b ut a few remarks o n the presen t

aspect o f the question m ay n o t b e o u t o f p lace befor e
conclu d in g m y w ork .

The G overnme n t o f I ndia has been fully a w ake n e d

t o the necessity o f w atching o ver the im p ortant part o f
their trust w hich resides in the forest regions E ven .

no w it is d oubtful w heth er th e cleara n ces already

effecte d have no t seriou sly d eteriorate d the rai n
fall o f the cou ntry as they certainly hav e m u ch ,

impaire d the supply o f useful timber ; an d the

example o f many countries a n cient and m o d ernfi f
,

is a w arni n g agai nst rash interference w ith the life

givi ng forests o f hilly regions w here rivers a r e born .

The scientific forester must n o w take the place o f

A p am p hlet a d mi a b le f l ea ni ng n d esea ch o n this
,
r or r a r r ,

su bject b y D D l il C o n se vat o o f F o ests in B m b ay exhaust

, r . a z e ,
r r r o ,
s

the su bject .
 AN E X P L O RA T I O N I N T HE FAR E AS T . 44 1

t he ex p lorer ; a n d the G overnment have taken t he

p ro p er course in seei ng that a ll ne wly - appoi n te d forest
Officers shall in fu t u re go through a course o f i n struction
i n the a d va n ce d schools o f forestry i n G erma n y and
Fra n ce The d an ger is lest a too purely p rofessional
.

vie w o f forest questions b e allo w e d t o excl u d e co n si d era

t ions beari ng p o w erfully o n the gen eral economy o f t he
masses o f the peo p le a nd particularly o f th e hill tribes
,

a nd lest cut - an d -
drie d theories based on th e example of
,

moist tem p erate regions be a p plied w ithout s ufficie n t

,

cau tion t o the very d ifferent conditions o f tropical

forests Fo r exam p le o ne Of the p ractices o f C onti
.
,

n e n t a l forestry the w orki n g o f forests in blocks by

,

rotation though p robably quite i n a p plicable to a hot

,

c ou n try w here stripping the soil o f a ll t he trees

,

at once converts it into a n arid desert is still ai me d a t ,

i n o u r I n d ian forests a nd is the cau se o f mu ch a n d

, ,

I believe wastefu l expenditure o f mo n ey Ma n y

,
.

im p orta nt matters can even n o w be d ealt w ith only in a

t entative manner a nd the wisdom o f th e a d ministrato r
m ust a l w ays be j oine d t o the technical skill o f t he
forester to secure the best results .

My narrative is no w d one having carrie d th e rea d e r

,

over every portion Of these C entral H ighla n ds a n d even ,

t aken a step with him b elo w their eastern termination .

I n th e course Of o u r rambles he has made the acqu a int

ance o f every w ild animal he is likely t o meet w it h
in the forests ; an d it o nly remains fo r me to offer
a fe w hints t o the traveller o r s orts ma n w ho may c o n
p
template an excursion in these re g ions Fe w men woul d .

p robably com e t o I ndia merely t o s he e t over this central

w il d er n ess Bu t as a field for ge n eral tr a v el a nd even a s
.
,

a sporting gro u n d I n d ia is ra p idly comi n g i nto favou r

,

a mong the wa n d ering s ection Of E ngli s h m en I n ee d .

4 42 T HE HIGHLAND S OF CEN T RAL INDIA .

not dilate o n the ge n eral i ntere s t of the co u ntry I t .

may b e hoped that m ost E nglish men will be n efit as

much fr o m a to ur throug h this gr eatest O f o u r d e
pe n de ncies as I ndia h erself w ill assu r edly b en efi t from
,

h avi ng the b u ll s -eye o f o utside Observatio n t urned

’

o n to her obs curi t y I w il l here speak o n ly Of the

.

glorious field that the cou n tr y O ff ers to t he sp ortsma n

i n comparably th e fi n est i n the w orld A s a fiel d
.

fo r s po r ts me n A frica may b e though t to be better

, ,

b ut it is n o t s o if I ndia he l ooke d at as a w hole .

Perhaps more a n im a ls i n n u mbe r or i n size m ay

b e slaughtered i n C entral A fr ica ; but that d oes
n o t s urely imply sup erior s o r t
p I n rea d i n g accou n t s
.

o f A frica n sh ooti ng ,
I have Oft e n w o n dered ho w m e n
could conti nu e to w ade t hro u gh th e sicke n i ng d etai l s
f -
of daily m assacre o h a lf tame a nim als offeri ng them selves
to the rifle o n i t s va s t op en plai ns I n I ndia fe wer a n imal s
.

w ill perhaps be bagged all will have t o b e w ork ed for ,

a n d some perhaps fought for The sport w ill b e far

.

superi or ; a n d t h e s p o r tsman w ill return from I ndia

w i t h a collectio n o f tr o phies w hich A fr ica ca nn ot m atch .

A fr ica a nd I ndi a bo t h have thei r elepha nts We ca nn ot

.

o ffer a hippopota m us ; b u t we h ave a rhi n oceros superior

i n a s po r t i ng p oi n t o f vie w to his A frican relative We .

h av e a w ild bu ffalo as s a vage a n d w ith fa r s up e r io r

hor ns to the C ape species ; a n d we ha v e fo u r other
species O f wild bovi n es b esides to which there is no t hi n g
,

comp a r able i n A fr ica I n feli n es besides a l io n a

.
, ,

n ,
n -
pa her and a h u ti n g l eopar d almost ide n tical w it h
t ,

those of A fr ica w e h a ve the tiger a nd o n e if n o t t wo

, , , ,

othe r s pecies of leopar d O u r bl ack a n tel o pe is u n

.

s urpassed b y a ny O f the ma ny a ntel opes of A frica ; an d

b esides him w e have fo u r teen sp ecies o f a ntelopes a n d
wild goats a nd sheep i n ou r b i lls a n d plains affor d i ng ,
4 44 T HE HIGHLAND S OF C E N T R AL INDIA .

th e fin est stalki ng in th e w orld to com p are with t he ,

other a n telopes Of A frica A frica has no d eer pro p erly

.

sp eaki n g at all except the Barbary stag w hich is o u t

, ,

o f the regular beat o f sportsm e n I n dia o n th e othe r .

,

ha n d ha s n i n e species o f a n tlered deer We have t hre e

, .

bears ; A fr ica ha s n o n e at all Th ere is no cou ntry .

i n the w orl d that c a n sho w su ch a list Of large game as

w e can i n I n dia A nd for mi n or sport w hat can compare
.
,

w ith o u r e n dl ess array Of phea s a n ts partridges a nd , ,

W ildfo w l ?

A ll this t o o is n o w so easy o f access

, ,
The traveller .

m a y step ashore i n B ombay w ith n othi ng m ore tha n a

, ,

carpet - bag if h e pleases and at o n ce fit himself o u t

,
’
for a year s tour through the count r y I f he j oins a .

“ ”
regular cam p i n the plai ns h e will fi nd the mos t ,

p e r fect system o f open - air life that has any where bee n
devised Though a n I n d ia n camp may not as accor d
.
, ,

in g t o Mark Tw ai n di d that o f th e Y a n kee pilgrims

,
,

i n Palestine contain ,
a thousa n d boot - j acks h e w il l ,
”

fi n d p retty n ea r ly everythi n g t hat civilised m a n c a n

want ready t o move ab out with him at th e rate o f fr o m
,

t w elve t o t wenty miles a d a y B y the h el p o f rail ways

.
,

h e m a y see almost the w hole cou ntry south o f t he

H imalayas a nd shoot specime n s o f all its game d uri n g
, ,

the pleasant cold mo n ths from O ctober to M arch ; an d

by th e time that A p r il ushers in the hot blasts o f sum m er ,

h e may fi nd himself if h e pleas es stalki n g the ibe x

, ,

amo n g the sno w s o f K a sh m i r .

F o r mere sport E ngland nee d n o t b e left earlier

than D ecember ; but should th e traveller as is probable , ,

h av e other Obj ects in v ie w h e should take a n extra ,

m o n th or t w o to see th e lions o f th e civilised p arts at

th ei r best which he may combi ne w ith some small gam e
shooti ng and pig -
,

sticki ng if he likes i n N ovember a nd ,

 AN E X P L O RAT I O N IN T HE F A R E A S T . 44 5

D ecember S houl d these ce ntral regions be selecte d by

.

t he sportsma n the shooti ng camp sh ould be orga nised if

, ,

possi b le beforehand at some station o n the G r eat

, ,

I nd ia n Pe ni nsu l ar R ail way the exact spot dependi ng ,

m uch o n w hether the sportsman ha s a ny friends o n the

s po t w ho w ould assist him The help o f the local civil
.

a uthorities is of cours e o f the greatest valu e a n d I may

say that it is al w ays fr e ely r e ndered to ge n tlemen proj ect

i ng a tour through their cha r ges S ome previous acquai nt .

a n ce w ith the la n g u age a n d the ge n eral requireme n ts o n

,

s uch a trip o n the pa r t o f at least one of the p arty is ,

almost esse ntial to ensu r e success I n the absence Of i n .

d u c e m en t s to take a n other li n e of cou n try I w ould r e c o m ,

m e n d t he t r aveller to leave the rai lw ay at th e large city

o f Bu r b a n rrr i n the district o f N im a r a n d commence his
’

p , ,

hu nti n g in the cou ntry rou n d the head - waters o f the

M o na tributary Of the Ta pt i rive r Biso n s a mbar a n d .
, ,

b ears are as n um erous a n d easy to get at the r e as i n a ny

part o f th e cou n try I k n o w Pai nted p artri dges j u ngle
.
,

fo wl a nd other small gam e w ould also dive r sify t he

, ,

s port a n d supply the pot

,
The n ce he should cross o v er
.

t o th e Bét ul district n orth of the Ta pt i w here tige r s are

, ,

p le ntiful a nd d evote the mo nth of M arch to their pur

,

s uit. S potted deer antelop e ni lg a i a n d other game are

, , , ,

a lso abu ndan t i n this tract a n d the e n d o f March migh t

,

s ee the sportsman stalki n g the bison o n the P u e hm u r r ee

hills I f he mea ns to devote the hot w eather als o to

.

these regio ns the district o f Mandl a a nd the sou r ces of

,

the N ar b ad a should be selected w here plenty O f tigers ,

w ill be fou n d a nd the s a mba r red deer an d wild bu ffalo

, , , ,

w ill add to the variety Of the sport .

The cost o f s uch a n expe d ition nee d not b e very

r eat M ost o f the outfit required w oul d be r e - sold at
g .

th e conclusion at no very great loss O ne hill - te nt t e n .

,
4 46 T HE H IGHLAND S OF CEN T RAL INDI A .

feet square a n d a small p a l w oul d b e su ffi cie n t fo r

,
“
,
”

t w o sportsmen ; a n d w ou ld cost at t he J u bbu lpur

S chool of I ndustry (whe n ce th ey sh oul d be or d ered
b eforeha n d and se n t t o the rail w ay statio n) about £ 30 .

A stro n g rough po ny is th e best a nimal to ride u n les s ,

hu nti ng o n h orseback is co n template d w hen a good ,

A rab s houl d b e bought i n th e Bombay stables The .

former are not al w ays t o be picke d u p o n th e spot but ,

c a n generally b e boug h t in Bombay at a cost o f abou t

£2 0 . A goo d A r a b fit to hu n t u n der eleven stone w i l l

, ,

cost £ 8 0 o r £ 1 0 0 A rra ngem ents should be m a d e t o

.

get the loa n Of or purch as e a stau n ch shooti ng -el epha n t

and h o w dah ; for though mu ch good spor t c a n be got
,

w ithout o n e a far h eavier b ag w ill b e realised w ith the

,

h elp o f a n elephant They are d i ffi cult to Obtai n

.
,

h o w ever at a ny time ; a n d a really goo d o n e will not

,

be bought for less th an £ 2 0 0 to £ 30 0 D ecent shik a r i s .

can ge n erally b e obtai n ed o n th e s p ot th ou gh they w ill ,

n o t o f course come u p t o m e n wh o have been brough t

u
p by th e sportsman himself t o th e w ork Th e curre n t .

ex p enses after the outfit h as been bought will com e

, ,

to abou t £30 p er m en s em for each s p ortsman O f .

course a m a n accustomed t o rough i t could get o n ,

a n d Obtain the b est o f s p ort at a much l ess expens e

than this w hich is laid do wn for a party w ishing to

,

enj oy all the comforts of th e I ndian style o f travelli n g

in cam p S uch a n adve nturous sportsman n eed o n ly
.

get for himself a small p a l t ent and a few necessary

implements o f travel a n d hire a came ] t o carry them
, ,

buy a rough p ony for £ 5 o r £ 1 0 hire a cou p le Of ,

servants and p lu nge w ith his rifle into th e wilderness

, .

I f capable o f speaki n g th e H ind i la n guage a n d con ,

c il ia t or to w ards the w il d men h e w ould soon hav e

y ,

about him a knot Of real j u ngle hu nters who woul d take

44 8 T H E HIGHLANDS OF C E N T R A L INDIA .

a m atter of som e di ffi culty I have fou n d that ge nerally

.

a deer struck by th e E xp r ess bullet even in the lu n gs , ,

w ill r u n fr o m fifty to a hu n dred ya r ds before falli ng .

I t is then ge nerally stone dea d havi ng bled i n tern ally

,
.

But v ery often th ere w il l n o t b e t he sl ightest mar k

of blood o n the track The v ery first t wo sh ots
.

I ever fire d w ith an E x p ress w ere remarkable illustra

tio n s o f this The fi r st w a s at a lovely s p otted bu ck
.
,

w ho suddenly stood before m e like an ap p aritio n

d ri n ki ng at the m argin o f the mirror -
,

like lake of
L ach o r a as I rou n ded the p oi nt o f o ne Of its bays
,
’
on my w a y back tire d a n d muddy from an eveni n g s
, ,

s nipe - shooti n g I t w a s over t w o hu n dre d yards across

.

the arm o f the lake from w h ere I w a s I had take n .

out a si ngle E xpress by H e n r y t o rais e th e fl ocks o f

, ,

w ild fo w l that sat i n safety in the centre o f the lake ,

a nd this m u n-
b oy n o w thr u st u nloaded i nto my
y g
han d . The bu c k ha d tu r n ed a nd w a s p icking his
,

w a y l eisurely u p the ba n k before I had the cart r idge

,

in ; a n d his g r acefu l for m and lo ng ta p eri ng antlers

stoo d o u t clear agai n st the sky - li n e as I fire d point
bla n k at his shoulder With a sta r tled toss o f the
.

hea d a n d a desperate b ou n d over the t o p o f the ban k

, ,

h e w a s Off i nto the thick cover that h ere surrou n ds

t he lake . We tracked his footpri nts in the gravelly
soil fo r n ear a hu n dr ed ya r ds w he n light faili ng u s
, ,

altogether w e had t o give it up

, N ex t m orni ng I
.

retu r ned and a solitary cro w ca w i n g on a bra n ch

, ,

poi nte d o u t th e buck lyi n g d ead a nd sti ff w ithin a

fe w paces o f w h ere w e had left the trail The next .

cha n ce I had w ith this rifle wa s equally u n expecte d .

Walki ng alo n g n ear m idday in the P u n a s a fores t by a ,

little -t r avell ed path w ay the ri dge o f a great bl ack back

,

appeared through th e trees slo wly p assi ng b ehi n d a

,
 AN E X P L O RAT I O N IN T HE F A R EAS T . 4 49

littl e em in e n ce I t w a s a s ple ndi d stag s a mbar w ho

.
,

had v ery u n usually v enture d do w n to tha t sile n t valley

, ,

i n the midday h eat t o dri n k at a l ittle stream He .

seemed to b e dazed b y the su nlight as h e came o u t

o n the path w ay a n d failed to n otice a c o r t ég e o f three
,

o r fou r horses w ith their riders a n ele pha n t a n d t e n o r , ,

a do z e n m e n o n foot I fi r e d at about a hundred a n d

.

s eve n ty yards a n d heard the li t tle b ullet strike agai n st

,

his b r a wny shoulder Bu t he gall o ped a way up a little

.

gl ade leavi n g n o b lood a n d I felt i n cli n e d to thro w

, ,

do w n the little rifle in disgust L ess th a n a hu nd r ed .

yards from th e path w ay ho w eve r the g r eat s tag lay , ,

perfectly d ead shot through th e middle o f the shoul d er

,
.

I aft e r wards acqui r e d complete co nfide n ce i n th is w eapo n ,

a n d killed a far la r ger pe r ce n tage o f th e a n imals I fired

at than I h ad e ve r accomplished w ith a ny other On .

o n e occasio n I shot three o u t o f a her d o f fi ve C hik a r a

a ntelopes ru nni ng across m e th e neares t bei ng over a ,

hu n dred yards This littl e creature offers a n ext r emely

.

small mark to fi r e at a n d th ese w ere fairly st r uck in

,

th e sh oulder I could not have do n e such w ork as this

.

w ith a ny other rifle o f my acquai n tance .

These small b ores ho wever h ave n o t bee n fou nd s o

, ,

effective fo r destroyi ng the larger a n imals su ch as tige r s , ,

bu ffaloes biso n etc the small fr ag m e n ts i nto w hich the

, , .
,

bullets are b r oke n up n o t p ossessi ng sufficient pe n etrative

po w e r to reach the v itals I t is a great obj ect too w ith
.
, ,

these large a nd da ngerous a nimals to break the large

bo n es so as to cripple the m at o n ce a nd p r eve n t acci
,

de nts ; a n d this th e small E xpress w ith its ve r y hollo w ,

bullet is quite u n abl e to effect The bo n e -

,
breaki ng a nd.

p e n etrative po wer o f these b ulle t s c a n ho wever be , ,

m uch i n creased by diminishi ng o r altogether omitti ng , ,

the hollo w in the point A goo d many ele p hants have

.

2 G
45 0 T HE HIGH L AND S OF CEN T R AL INDIA .

b ee n kille d d ead by t he d ea d shot w ith th e smaller

, ,

gau ge usi ng solid har d ened proj ectiles ; an d th e l arger

,

rifle w ith a sh or t hollo w has bee n eff ectively used

‘

, ,

agai nst tigers and bears Much o f the shock to th e

.

system cause d by the spreadi ng o f th e hollo w b ullet is

, ,

o f course lost if a s olid ball be employed .

The n ext a d vantage o f the E xpress system w here ,

it is suitabl e as regar d s killi ng p o w er is the very flat ,

t r aj ectory at sporti ng ranges obtai ned by the u se o f

a light bal l a n d h eavy cha r ge o f po w der T wo si z es .

o f t he small E xp r ess are n o w m ade the smaller 4 5 0 ‘

, ,

o f a n i n ch havi ng a charge o f nearly four d rachms

, ,

a nd the larger 5 0 0 shooti n g five drachm s o f po w der

°

.
, ,

Th e first gives a p erfectly point - blank range o f a

hundred and sixty yar d s w ith an extreme effective ,

ran ge of t wo hu nd re d an d fift y ; the latter a p oint

blank o f rather m ore than t wo hu ndred a nd an ex ,

treme o f four hu n dre d They both shoot w ith extreme.

accuracy at these ra n ges The smaller w eighs se ven.

a n d a half p ou n ds and the larger eight a nd a q uarter

,

as a mi nimu m ; tho u gh the addition o f half a p ou n d

t o the w eight o f each gives more stea d iness an d regular
shooting .

Th e very great im p rovement thus effecte d in the

shooting o f a ny o ne w ho uses an E x p ress rifle goes ,

a lo n g w a y to w ards com p e nsati ng fo r any loss of smash

i ng po wer in comparison with the o l d w ide - bore d rifles .

I u n hesitatingly theref ore recommen d the ado p tion o f

the 4 5 0 o r 5 0 0 E x p ress fo r a ll o r dina r y p urposes I f
' ‘

its greater w eight b e not obj ecte d t o the larger is ,

certai nly preferable in every other res p ect ; but very

good w o r k can b e done w ith the smaller bore an d the ,

savi ng o f weight is a great a d vantage fo r w ork in the

hills .
 A PPE NDI CE S .

SELEC T I O N AND T R EA TM EN T OF EL E P HAN T S .

T HE RE su bj ects n which s o little is ge n e al ly k no w n as

a re fe w o r

that f the d iseases nd u n s u n d n esses n d t h ge ne al m anage m e n t

o a o ,
a e r

o f ta m e ele p ha n ts A lth ugh the e e m an y ele p han ts u n d e t h

. o r ar r e

ch a ge o f ffice s f d iffe en t p u b lic d e p a tm e nts i n I n d ia as w ell as

r o r o r r ,

a g d n u mb e w hich b el n g t o p ivate p e s ns it al w ays see m s t o

oo r o r r o ,

b e assu m e d that t o attai n t ny acquai n tan ce w ith the n atu e f the o a r o

an i mal nd its vete in a y t eat me n t is a h o p eless task The c use

a r r r . o

q n e is that thei m ah uts

ue c n ative kee p e s tha n w h m a m o e
r o ,
or r ,
o r

ign an t or ca eless cl ass d es n t exist

or r c mm o nly all o w e d t d o o ,
a re o o o

w ith the m w hat they ch se ve y o fte n t o t hei se i us d et i m e n t oo ,

r r r o r ,

a n d s o m eti m es c m p lete d isa b le m e n t They p o fess t p ssess m an y

o . r o o

sec et s p ecifics m st f w hich

r
,
useless nd o nly i n te n d e d t
o o a re ,
a o

e xt act m n ey f o m thei m aste s n the p ete n ce f p u ch asi ng

r o r r r o r o r

d ugs ; nd m an y f the m f u nd e d n the g ssest su p e stiti n Fo

r a o o o ro r o . r

i nstan ce it is c mm n am on g the m t give the ele p ha n t a p iece o f

,
o o o

a tige s live t m ake him c u age us ! nd in o d e t m ake h im

r
’
r o o r o a ,
r r o

see w ell at n ight t t h ust d w n his th o at the g eat yell w eyes o f

,
o r o r r o

the b w n h n e d w l t o n f esh f m the livin g b i d

ro or o r r ro r

H avin g h d m uch t o d w ith ele p han ts b th i n my p ivate

a o ,
o r

p ssessi n n d in the fo est esta b lish men t I m i nd uce d t o p ut o n

o o a r ,
a

r ec d w hat I k n w f thei m an age ment n t w ith the i d ea f

or o o r ,
o o

fu nishi n g a c m p lete gui d e t thei t eat men t b ut in the h p e that

r o o r r ,
o

it m y g o s m e w y t w a d s b viatin g s m e f the m ism an age m e n t

a o a o r o o o

t hey n o w o ge n e ally su bj ecte d t

a re s n d als b e o f assistan ce t o
r o, a o

p e s n s e ngage d in p u chasi ng ele phants I n a o gh c u n t y l i ke

r o r . r u o r

the f est t acts f C e n t al I n d ia ele phan ts w hen p p e ly l ke d

or r o r , ,
ro r oo

a fte the m st seful f an i mals w hethe f i d i n g p p ses

r, a re o u o ,
r or r ur o or

f orca y i n g b aggage a nd o the heavy w k Whe n n egl ecte d h w

rr r or .
,
o

eve theyr, su bject t o n u m e o us s mal l ail m ents w hich have le d

a re r ,

s me p e s n s t
o ej ect the m f such se vices
r o o r or r .

O n l ki n g o ve n ele p ha n t the m st i n ex p e ie n ce d eye w o u ld

oo r a ,
o r

at o n ce d etect the p esen ce o f the d ise se calle d b y n atives Z é b d

r a r a
’

The e a e t wo va ieties f it calle d A l a nd S dkhci The f o m e is a

‘

r r r o ,
s . r r
45 4 A PPE NDIX .

d p sical affecti i which the eck chest d st mach fil l u p t

ro on, n n , ,
an o o

a n e m us si z e I t ccu s m st f eque tly i e w ly-

no r o .caught a i mals o r o r n n n n ,

a n d is p b a b ly att i b uta b le t a su dd e cha ge f f d

ro I ce ha d
r o n n o oo . on

an ele p ha t attacke d w ith it i mm e d iately afte cha gi g f m w heat

n r n n ro

t o ice r e t e i g a d ist ict whe e the f me w

, on n r n t p cu a b le r r or r as no ro r .

G e e ally
n r ele pha t that has b ee t w
,
an th e yea s i ca p tivity n n o or r e r n
is c si d e e d p etty safe f m it S ikh i Z é b d is usually d evel p e d
on r r ro . z c r a
'

ou t f the othe b ut s meti m es c m eso at ce I t is a s t f

r, o o on on . or o

ge e al at phy falli g a w ay
n r ro d is cha acte ise d b y a sh ivelle d
,
or n an r r r ,

c acky ski m uch e m aciati

r n, d w eak ess I t is a p t t b ec m e on, an n . o o

c m p licate d w ith t u b les me s es i va i us p a ts f the b d y I

o ro o or n r o r o o . n
p u chasi g ele p ha t it is t likely that the actual p ese ce f
r n an n no r n o

Z é ba d w ul d b e ve l ke d ; b ut w ith ut ca e it is easy t b uy
r o o r oo o r o an

a i m al
n ece tly caught as t b e still l i kely t d evel p it S uch
so r n o o o .

an a i mal sh ul d b e g t f m uch less m ey tha

n o l ge o or on n one on r

d mesticate d Th state f t ai i g the a i m al has eache d will

o . e o r n n n r

ge e ally i d icate the p e i d f his cap tu e I f th ughly b e d ie t

n r n r o o r . oro o n
t its d ive
o lyi g d w p atie tly t let y exam i e its feet t
r r, n o n n o ou n ,
e c .
,

it w ill p b ab ly have b ee sufficie tly l g i ha d t b e p etty safe

ro n n on n n o r

T his b i gs m t u s u d feet—the m st c mm fai l i g i n

.

r n e o n o n o o on n n a
ele pha t I t is f t w ki d s calle d b y atives K a d i d S aj ha
n . o o n ,
n n
'
an n .

The f me is a s t f ca ke that b egi s

or r the s le d g a d ually
or o n r, n on o an r

eats d ee p i t the st uctu e f the f t u til at l e gth it b eaks t

n o r r o oo n n r ou

a b ve the t -ails I its ea lie stages it is easily c ceale d b y

,

o oe n . n r r on

p luggi g the h les ; d m a y f the ele pha ts b ght t the g eat

n o an n o n r ou o r

fai s like that f S p i

r ,
i fact affecte d w ith K a d i th gh t
o on i r , a re n n
’

,
ou o

o ut w a d a pp ea a ce p e fectly s u d I t
r ge e ally b e d isc ve e d
r n r o n . ca n n r o r

b y maki g the e l e ph a t l ie d w d a d mi iste i g a e ies f s ha p

n n o n, a n n r n s r o r

r a p s w ith a stick ll ve the s les f the feet w he if K a d i b e a o r o o ,

n, n
’

p ese t the a i mal w ill b e su e t sh w it b y sh i ki g

r n ,
n r o o r n n .

S ajha is w hat w u ld b e ca ll e d c acke d heels i a h se I t

n o
“
r n or . s

d ee p c acks d ischa gi g m atte situate d ab ut the j u cti f t h

r ,
r n r, o n on o e

h o rny s le w ith the skio ha d ly b e p asse d ve i a b a d case n, ca n r o r n ,

th ugh a slight
o m y esca p e b se vati I t is a se i u m
o ne a o r on . r o s u

s u d ess b ei g ge e ally c stituti al d fte e d e i g useles

o n n ,
n n r on on ,
an o n r n r n s

d u i g eve y ai y seas ele p ha ts that su bj ct t it

r n r r n on n a re e o .

T he eyes f the ele p ha t ext e m ely d elicate d pp ea t

o n a re r ,
an a r o

p ssess i
o u usual d eg ee a sy m p athetic c ecti w ith the
n a n n r o nn on

d igestive ga s N ea ly eve y i d is p siti f the a i mal is aec m

or n . r r n o on o n o

p i d b y a cl u d i g f the eyes F w ele p ha ts that

’

an e fl i o n or su u s on o . e n
h ave b ee l g caught es p ecially if i the ha d s f atives hav
n on ,
n n o n ,
e

p e fect eyes H eati g f d u d ue ex p su e t b ight

r . is fte
n oo ,
or n o r o r s u n, o n
f ll w e d b y the a pp ea a ce f a fil m ve
o o b th eyes w hich r n o o r one or o , ,

if t atte d e d t
no d its cause e m i s i
n p e ati i c eases til l
o, a n r a n n o r o n, n r
the c ea b ec mes quite p aque
o rn d the a i m al l ses its sight
o o ,
an n o .

T he l aves f the p ee p ul fig-t ee w hich f m exce l le t f dd e t h

e o
o
r ,
or n o r in e

c ld seas
o al m st su e t p d uce this a ffecti if gi e f
on, a r e o y r o ro on v n or a n
 15 6 A PP ENDI X .

sofatten e d u p w ith a tificial fee d i ng that it is ha d t o tell what ny r ,

r a

f the m w ul d l k like if st i pp e d t the b nes Then the “ ”

on e o o oo r o o .

S p ace is c n fi ne d n d the c w d g eat that ve y little t tti ng “

so o ,
a ro so r ,
r ro

o t u i p
”
bl sthat alt gethe b uyi ng ele p hants at h fai s is
oss1 e so o r su c r

a nythi ng b ut p lai n saili ng .

The sual f d o f ele pha nts in U p p e nd C e n t al I nd ia c n sists

u oo r a r o

o f cakes f W heate n fl u o b ake d W t h t leaven t a w eight f o r, 1 ou ,

o o

a b ut 2 l b s each nd give n w ith a slight s p ea d ing f cla ifie d

o ,
a r o r

b utte I n the S uth n d E ast w he e wheat is sca ce plai n n

r . o a ,
r r ,
u

c ke d ice is give n i n stea d T h d aily ati n f a full-si z e d an i m al

oo r . e r o o

o f say 8
, % feet hi g h is 2 4 l b s f fl u o 3 2 l b s o f ice ,
Whe n n . o o r, r . r . o e

o f these s ts f f d is su b stitute d f r t h the it sho ul d b e d n e

or o oo o e o r, o

g a d ually nd whe n ice is fi st give n a p a t f it sh ul d b e b ile d

r a r r r o o o

f or s me w eeks The a b o ve ati n s e f n an i m al i n ha d w k

o . r o a r or a r or .

I n the G ve n m e n t C mm issa iat D e p a t m e n t w he e g eat n u m b e s

o r o r r ,
r r r

o f ele p ha n ts ke p t al m st in i d le ness f a g eat p a t f the yea

a re o or r r o r,

l w e ati n s
o r r give n But the t eat men t o f these ele p han ts is b y
o a re . r

n o m ea n s a m d el f i m itati n I n a state o f n atu e the a n i m al

o or o . r

takes n i mme n se d eal f exe cise H e e they get n w o k t s p eak

a o r . r o r o

o f b et w ee n the cl se f n m a chi n g seas n (Ma ch ) o n d the o o e r o r a

b eginn i n g o f the n ext (N ve mb e ) They p ass quite o t f n o r . u o co

d iti n d u i ng this ti me ; n d m an y e l st f m c mp lai n ts gen e

o r a ar o ro o

r ate d b y these su dd e n alte n ati n s f w k n d i d le n ess I n th e r o o or a .

text I have u ge d the e mp l y m e n t f these ele phan ts d u i n g this

r o o r

seas n in the o ga n ise d d est ucti n f w il d b easts Of c u se the

o r r o o . o r

a m u n t o f the ati n w ill va y s m e what w ith the si z e f the a n i m al

o r o r o o ,

a n d ele p ha n ts like h ses have thei i d i syn c asies in the m atte f

,
or ,
r o r r o

fee d i ng A sha p l o k- t equi es t b e ke p t o ve the m ah uts at

. r o ou r r o r o

fee d i ng -ti m e the wise g eat p a t f h all w an ce w ill p b a b ly g

,
o r r r o t e o ro o

t o M o u l a Bux w ife s m all fa m ily n d the seve al fathe s b

, ,
the s ,
a r r ,
ro r ,

a n d c usi n s w h o usually a im at getti ng half a see o f fl u a p iece

o r o r

f thei g eat m ilch c o w—m aste s ele p ha n t

,

o t u o r r A b ut half a r
’
. o

p u n d f cla ifie d b utte n d the sam e a m u n t f salt sh ul d b e

o o r r, a o o o

all w e d d aily w ith t h f d ; n d s p ice-b alls sh ul d b e a d mi niste e d

o e oo a o r

ab o ut n ce a w eek Besi d es these ati ns n ele phan t d ev u s a n

o . r o a o r

e n m us m u n t f f dd e The p i n ci p al su b stan ces give n him e

or o a o o o r . r ar

the b a n ches f va i us t ees f the fi g t i b e b any a n p ee p ul n d

r o r o r o r , , ,
a

g olo The leaves f the p ee p ul e eate n b ut sh l d b e av o i d e d

ar . o a r ,
ou

i n the h o t seas n f eas n s b ef e m e n ti n e d Of the o the s the

o or r o or o . r

i nn e b a k f the l a ge b a n ches nd the w h le su b sta n ce f s m alle

r r o r r r ,
a o o r

t w igs al n e eate n I t is ast n ishi ng t b se ve t h a d it n e s

o a re . o o o r e ro s

w ith w hich the ele p ha n t p eels ff the d elicate i n n e b a k i n l n g o r r o

st ip s nd ej ects all the est This fasti d i us n ess n ecessitates n

r , a r r . o a

i mm e nse s p p ly f b an ch s eve y d y ; nd t he ele pha n t al w ays g es

u o r e r a a o

ou t w ith his kee p e t b i n g i n as m uch as he n ca r y at a ti m e The

o r ca rr .

b a m b is als eaten b ut W ll n t b e acce p te d ve y l ng at a ti me

oo o ,
l o r o .

O the t ees re als eate n in the j u ngle b ut as they

r a r o sel d om ,
a re
 A P P ENDIX . 45 7

accessi bl e t o tam e ele phan ts they nee d n t b e r efe re d t o A l n g , o r . o

p ecies f g ass (T yp ha lep ha nt n ) which g w s i n m any tanks n d

’

s o r e z a ,
ro a

ive s d u i ng the a i n y seas n f ms excelle nt f dd e f ele p ha n ts

r r r r o ,
or o r or ,

who ve y f n d o f it ; nd w he n they have b ee n m uch p u l le d

a re r o a

d wn b y a seas n s ha d w k they sh ul d if p ssi ble b e se n t t p ick

o o
’
r or ,
o ,
o ,
o

u p agai n whe e this f dd e is p le n t i ful I n the a b se n ce f t h a b ve

r o r . o e o

d esc i p ti n s f f dd e the stalks f m illet calle d

r o o oKu b e eve n
r, o ,
“
r s, or

d y g ass m y b e give n b t it w ill n t satisfy the m l ng w ith ut a

r r , a ,
u o o o

m ixtu e o f g een f o d
r S uga -can e is a g eat t eat nd in m d e ate
r o . r r r ,
a o r

quan tities is ve y g d fo the m p a ticula ly if in p c n d iti n

r oo r ,
r r oor o o .

E le p ha nts sh o ul d b e p ickete d n d y g u n d sta nd i ng i n d a m p o r ro ,

b ei ng a g eat cause f d isease d feet They d n t equi e ny p

r o . o o r r a ro

t t i n f m the w eathe b ut the sha d e

ec o ro f a t ee nd a J h l r o r ,
a oo or

N md (cl th f st i n g o felt ) th w n ve the m i n c l d n ights

u a o o r r ro o r o .

T hey sh ul d b e b athe d as ften as p ssib le in ta nks nd ive s n d

o o o a r r a

a sm all qua n tity f cla ifie d b utte sh ul d afte w a d s b e u b b e d ve

o r r o r r r o r

thei f ehea d s ea s chests nd such p a ts as

r or
,
liab le t c ack
r , , a r a re o r ,
or

s uff e f m the u b b i ng f the

r ro t n nt f m the n T h ey
r o a cc o u r e i e s or ro su .

s h ul d b e all w e d t
o d i n k as m uch w ate as they like
o T hey e
o r r . ar

o fte n ve y n ice a b ut it r nd ej ect it w he n m u dd y o r stag na nt The

o ,
a r .

p a d sh o ul d b e f full si z e nd w ell-stuffe d w ith g ass T h felt cl th

o a r . e o

that g es u n d e t he p a d (G d él ) sh o ul d al w ays b e in p p e e p ai
o r a a ro r r r,

ora s o e b ack is the ce tai n c o n sequen ce B th these a ticles equi e

r r . o r r r

t o b e e n e w e d a b o ut n ce a yea if a w h le seas o n s w o k h b ee n ’
r o r, o r a s

d ne o The s m alle felte d cl th n which the d ive sits sh o ul d b e

. r o o r r

m a d e la ge e n o ugh t p ject a little in f n t o f the ele p han t s f e

r o ro ro
’
or

hea d n d p tect hi m f m a ve tical n I t is n o t the n atu e f

,
a ro ro r su . r o

the an i m al t e m ai n o u t i n the p e n in the heat o f the d ay nd I

o r o a

a m su e that he suffe s f m it if m a d e t d o o n p o tecte d

r r If n t ro o s u r . o

a ll w e d a t ee t stan d u nd e in the heat o f t he d ay n ele p ha nt

o r o r ,
a

al ways hea p s all the leafy b an ches he n get o n his h ea d n d b ack r ca a .

A fte much ma chin g n st ny g un d the feet a a p t t get

r r o o ro ,
re o

te nd e f m un d ue w ea i ng a w ay f the h n y s l es This is t b e
r ro r o or o . o

r em e d ie d b y the p cess calle d Chobing w hich c o n sists i n the ro

“
,
”

a p p licati n t o the feet f a b ili ng h t m ixtu e o f a go d m any

o o o o r o

i ng e d ien ts ge n e ally ese mb li n g c al t

r ,
I ts p i n ci p al c mp n en t
r r o ar . r o o

i the g m esi n o f the S i l t ee b ut eve y m ah o ut p fesses t o have

s u r a r r ro

a m ixtu e o f his w n w hich he k ee p s a p f u n d sec et n d w hich it

r o ,
ro o r ,
a

is as w el l t let hi m use o l ng as the d esi e d esult e nsues n d it

o , s o r r ,
a

d es n o t c st m e tha n a b ut five shilli n gs

o o The e is n d u b t
or o . r o o

that the p cess is b e n eficial the m st f o t-s e ele phant getti n g

ro ,
o o or

rou n d u n d e it in a b o ut a w eek I t equi es t o b e d n e a b o ut t wice

r . r r o

a yea if the an i mal is egula ly w ke d n ha d g u n d

r, r r or o r ro .

I n d p sical Z é bdd the f o d m ust b e e d uce d t a m i n i m u m

ro r o r o ,

a b ut 4 l b s f wheat 6 l b s f ice nd if the latte b e the d iet it

o . o or . o r a r

s h o ul d b e give n b ile d N g ee n f dd e sh l d b e all o w e d n ly

o . o r o r ou ,
o

d y g r ass o
r K b A p u gative sh ul d als o b e give n ; a nd t h
r
“
ur ee .
”
r o e
45 8 A PP ENDIX .

f o ll o w i ng eci p e w hich I r , g ot f ro m a v ery ex p e i en ce d e l e p han t r

d o ct is as g d as ny
or , oo a

ma d e i nt o a b al l w ith ice fl o u a n d g o o (c u d e suga ) M o st r r

“
r r r .

ele phan ts take physic w ith o ut a ny t o u b le I n a b a d case the r .

s w ellin gs w ill have t o b e ta pp e d Man y mah o uts k n ow h o w t . o

p e fo m this O p e atio n The ski n sh o ul d b e p ie ce d ab o ut the m i dd l

r r r . r e

o f the a bd me n w he e the g eatest qua n tity o f liqui d is usually c l

o r r o

l t d
ec e nd a fl ,
m f
a i n ch b la d e w ill b e equi e d T he flui d
ea o r r .

w hich c o m es o t is sai d t o b e i n fecti o us t o o the e l e p ha n ts if they a

u r re

all w e d t stan d n ea it The o t o f the M d r pl an t (Ca lo t oz n

o o r . ro u a r
'

g ig a nt ) is o fte n give n b y the m ah o uts i n this d isease in d o ses o f

ea

o n e d ach m t w ice a d ay a pp a e n tly w ith g o o d effect

r This is als o ,
r .

thei g eat e me d y i n the m e a d van ce d stage o f the d isease calle d

r r r or

S ikha Z
z b d I t sh ul d b e acc o mp an ie d h we er b y a b u n d a nce
er
’

a
’

. o ,
o v ,

o f f d i n clu d i n g g ee n f o dd e
oo ,
n d suga - can e p le nty o f b athing
r r a r , ,

a nd egula exe cise

r r r .

F K ind i in the f o t the h o n y s o le must b e p a e d d o wn til ]

or c o ,
r r .

the si nuses n b e g o t at n d w ell washe d o t w ith w a m w ate

ca ,
a u r r .

The h o les sh o ul d the n b e fille d w ith n i ng e d ien t c o mp se d o f a r o

T a r 1 pa t r .

L av f t h Ni m t (M l i A i d i ht )
e es o e 1 p t re e e a, z ra c a a r .

G m f th S ll i t u
(B w l l i t h if )
o e e e 2 p t re e os e a ur er a a r s .

A p iece o f st o ut l eathe sh ul d then b e faste n e d o ve the o p en p a t s r o r r

w ith s m all tacks d ive n i n t o the a dj i n i n g h o n y s o le o tie d o n if

r o r ,
r

the e is n p lace fo the tacks

r o r .

d ha n o c acke d heels cann o t b e e m e d ie d u nl ess the feet e

,
r r ,
r ar

ke p t d y This al o n e w ill suff ce t o cu e m o d e ate cases T he

r . i r r .

f ll w i ng l o ti o n w
o o ec mm en d e d m b y the ex p e ie n ce d f ie n d
a s r o e r r

a b o ve allu d e d t o ; b ut I n eve ha d o ccasi o n t o use it myself Tak e r .

} l b o f d y t o b acc
7 . n d b o il it d o w n i n a qua t
r f w ate r till it
o a r o

b ec o mes a p i n t Then mi w ith it 2 l b s o f quickli m e w ith 4 o un ces

. x .
,

o f b luest n e a nd a pp ly at i n te vals t o the c acks

o ,
r r ,

F o d i mn ess i n the c nea o f the eye cause d b y heati ng f o o d

r or ,

change the d iet p a ticula ly av o i d ing p ee p ul leaves G ive t he

,
r r .

ele p han t g ass if i n seas n I n the ea lie stage f the d isease this
r o . r r o

t eat me n t nd b athi ng the eye w ith a w eak s o luti n o f n it ate o f

r ,
a o r

silve (5 g ai n t o the u n ce o f w ate ) w ill usually effect a cu e I f

r r s o r ,
r .

a fi l m has b ee n f o me d it m y ge ne ally b e e m o ve d b y b l w i ng a
r a r r o

p i nch o f ve y fi n ely p w d e e d glass i nto the eye o n ce o t w ice a d ay

r o r r .

S e b acks a the m st t u b les o me o f all ele pha n t affecti n s t

or re o ro o o

cu e e ff ectually T hey must n t o n ny acc o u n t b e all w e d t o heal

r . o a o

u
p su p e r ficially a n d sh o ul d si n uses o r a sac h ave f o m e d they m us t r ,
4 60 A PP ENDIX .

Occasi o n l i nj u ies n d c om plai n ts wil l gi e a n o pp o tu n ity fo

a r a v r r

the d is p lay f i nge nuity i n the a pp licati n f em e d ies On e f the

o o o r . o

m o st si n gula p e ati n s f d entist y I eve hea d o f w s the e m o v l

r o r o o r r r a r a

o f a la ge exc esce n ce
r n the b ack t o o th
r f n ele p ha n t w hich ha d
o o a ,

w n i n t the p b ute s cheek n d al mo st p even te d his fee d i ng ’

g ro o o or r ,
a r .

O n o f the b est m ah o uts I eve k n e w v lu n tee e d t

e e m ve it H e r o r o r o .

g o t a g d thick l
oo g of w d n d m a d e a h le t ho gh it l a ge oo ,
a o ro u r

e n ugh f his a m t o p ass Outsi d e he c o ve e d it all ve w ith n ails

o or r . r o r ,

leavin g a b o ut a qua te f a n i n ch o f each stickin g t f the w d

r r o ou o oo .

The ele p han t w m a d e t o lie d w n nd faste n e d w ith h bbles w hile

a s o a o ,

the l g thus p e p a e d w p lace d in his m uth l i ke a b it nd b o u n d

o r r as o , a

w ith p es ac o ss his n eck T w e nty o thi ty p e s on s no w sat u p n

ro r . r r r o

his hea d n d t u n k (if these b e ke p t d o w n n ele p han t cann t ise

a r a o r

f om his si d e ) nd the p e at i n t o d uce d his m th ugh the h le

r ,
a o r or r a r ro o

a n d b ega n t w ff the p tu b e a n ce
o sa H e t k seve al h u s t
o ro r . oo r o r o

e ffect it the ele p han t afte a while lyin g p e fectly still w ith the
, r r ,

e x p essi o n f a m a ty in his p tu n e d eye T he p iece sa wn ff w s

r o r r u r . o a

as la ge as o n e s fist ; a nd the an i mal g t p e fectl y w ell ve y s o o n

r
’
o r r

afte wa d s r r .
 A PP E NDIX . 46 1

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46 8 A PP E N D I X
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C
V O A BU L AR Y O F A F E W U S E F U L T E R MS I N T H E LO CA L H I ND I ,

G O ND , A N D K O R K O O L A N G U A GE S .

E NG LISH . H I ND I . GO N D . K O R KO O .

An t e l o p e H im H irn (H )
four horne d Ch o n s i n g h a Bun-Bher (H )
A x e common
,
K u l ha l i Maro
b attle ( yg )
B a s T o nn
gy a P h a r c hia
Bam b oo Bans Bans (H )
Bear R eech Y e dj a l .

Bison Bun -Bo d a Bu n- Bhainsa ( )

H
Bloo d L ooh Na t t u r
Buffalo (W i l d ) A rna-Bhainsa
Ca m p D ehra Bu ngla (H )
D eer b arking
,
K akur Bh erk i
hog . Bher-S amur Bher-S am u r (H ) .

re d Bara N w er a r ee

or S l-S am r
a a .

s é mb a r . S am u r

s p o tt e d . Chee tul B u ck ,

ank
J
K u tt a .

H a thi
Bokhar 0 T u p 1

Angar .

K hana .

J u ng a l .

Mo o rgh ee .

L om
C hika a r

A gwa
G on d
Ba r o o d
K argosh
D ongur
 A PPE N D I X .

E NG LISH . I DI
H N . GO N D . K OR K OO .

N u mer a l s .

O o n di
B an d
Mo o n d
N al u
S aighan
S arung
Y d u ng o

Yermu d
N H
( ) a u

D aha (H )
D I RE CTI ONS P R E S E R V AT I O N O F TH E
AS TO TH E
S K I N S A N D O T H E R T R O P HI E S O F A N I MA L S O N
TH E F I E L D .

Co ntr i bu t ed by E d wi n W a r d , F Z S . . .

G E NE R A L —1 13 111 11 8 1} a l w ays b e b orne in min d t ha t t he v al ue of a ny

o bj ec t secure d an d p reserve d d e p en d s on t h e co m p le t eness w ith w hich
a ll i t s nat ura l fea t ures are save d as w e ll as the co n d ition in w hich ,

they are ke pt T his is t rue in d egree for wh at e ver p ur p ose the

.
,

o bj ec t is d esigne d ; b u t i t is an a b so l u t e essen t ia l in regar d t o

s p ecime n s for t h i ll us t rat ion of natura l his t ory
e

L A R GE GA ME —T hose met w i t h in the Centra l I n d ia d is t ric t w i ll

.

mos t general ly b e t he F l d mos t im p ortant of w hich is the T iger ;

,
e z
'

ae,

many sma ll er C ni m of horne d b easts t he gigan t ic go u r

a r vo ,

Bos S y lh t n s — commonly cal le d t he I n d ian b ison ; b uffa l o

e a u

s am b ar chee t al an d o t her d eer There is a l so the e l e p han t l argest

,

.
, , ,

of al l an d o t her p achy d erms

, .

W hen t he grea t game is secure d fi rs t t urn t h anima l on i t s ,

e

b ack an d s t re t ching a p ar t t he fore an d hin d l egs p rocee d t o remove

, ,

t he skin I n a ll cases w here t he skin is w an t e d n t ire t his is b est

. e ,

d one b y making incision from one corner of the m outh t hrou g h the
me d ia l l ine of b e ll y to the e x tremity of t ail N e xt m ake l a t era l .

incisions in or d er t o s t ri p the lim b s ; for the fore -l egs from t he e d ge ,

of cen t ral incision t hro gh t h arm p it a l o n g t h i nner si d e of the

u e e

l im b t he l ine of incision inc l ining sligh t ly to t he ou t er p ort ion in

, ,

or d er t ha t t he seam may b e less p erce p ti ble when t he p erfec t s p ecimen

is moun t e d A li ke p rocess through t he groin is n ecessary for t he
.

hin d -l egs T he incisions thus m a d e l eave the skin in form of

.

t o ngue p ieces over t he b reas t F irs t a pp ly t he knife t o these p oin t s

.

an d d e t ach t he skin roun d to the S p ine I n d oing t his i t is necessary .

t o clear the l im b s an d great care mus t b e taken t o l eave in t c t t h

,
a e

na t u a l featur s of t he foo t T he l as t m e t acarp a l an d m e t a t arsa l

r e .

b ones mus t b e l eft in the skin w hether in t he case of F li a or , e

'
ce

Cer vid a e N o w t urn over t he carcase an d d ra w b ack th e w ho l e skin

.

o v er t he hea d e x ercising p ar tic u l ar care in se p ara t i ng t he ears an d

,

t he eyes from t he skul l S imi l ar care mus t b e t ak en as t o t he l i p s

. .

F o r if t h e i m of t he eye l i d s b e severe d b y t he sca lp e l t he inj ury

r

s p rea d s in a remarkabl e manner often so b a d ly as to re n d er t he ,

d amage serio u sl y cons p icuous A s t o the ears they shou ld b e .

,

se pa rate d from t he sku ll c l ose t o t h e b one or the l o w er s t r c t u re wi ll ,

u

p res en t t oo l arge an a p ert u re The l i p s m u s t b e cu t off c l ose t o t he

.
 4 74 A PPE N D I X .

g u ms H aving t h u s t aken ff t he skin i t mus t b e c l eane d of a ll

. o ,

s u p er fl u ous fa t an d fl esh T he cart i l age of t he ear m u s t b e t urne d

.

t hro ugh T he l i p mus t b e t reat e d t hus P ass t he knife b e t w een t he

.

mucous li ning an d t he o u t er ski n a ll roun d t he mou t h so as t o a d mi t

of t he p reser v a t i v e p ene t ra t ing t his t hick p or t ion of t he s p ecimen
com pl e t e l y T he eye l i d s an d fee t must each b e t rea t e d in a simi l ar
.

m a nner for t he same reason N o w p eg t he skin ou t w i t h t he f u r .

d o w n w ar d s for d rying an d anoin t i t t horoughly w i th arsenical soa p

,

if p referre d ; b u t a t the same t ime s e free l y a su ffi cien t qu an t i ty of u

p o wd ere d a l um es p eciall y on t he l i p s eye l i d s ears feet an d al l other

, , , ,

fl eshy p ar ts I n regar d t o t he em p loy ment of arsenica l soa p as a

.

p reser v at ive agains t insec t ravages i t is no t i n my O p inion a l ways ,

com pl e t e l y efli c c io u s I t herefore recommen d t ha t s p iri ts of t ur

a .

p en t ine sho ul d at t he same t ime b e freel y p oure d over b o t h si d es of

t he skin W hen t he skin is fli ient l y d rie d i t can b e fo l d e d an d
. su c

p acke d .

A lt hough t he p rocess j u s t d escri b e d is a v ery goo d one I shou ld ,

myse l f a d o pt t he fo ll o w i n g w hich w ou ld b e much more sim pl e ,

,

an d is t horough l y successful T he skin havin g b een remo v e d from :

t he carcase an d c l eane d ins t ea d of b eing p egge d o u t for d rying

, ,

sho u ld b e thick l y covere d over t he fl esh si d e w ith p o w d ere d a l um ,

t hen fo ld e d in con v enien t form an d thus immerse d in a b arre l of ,

b rin w ha t w e t echnicall y call l iquor a dd p ar t s of a l um an d

e,
“ ”

common sa lt in t he p ro p or t io n of si x p oun d s of a l u m nd t w p oun d s a o

of sa lt t o a gall on A num b er of skins ma y b e pl ace d in t he sa me

.

b arrel w hich is t hus rea d y ei t her for storing or t ransi t They are
,
.

q u i t e e x em pt from t he ra v ages of i nsec t s native d ress i ng w i t h l ime

an d o t her d e l e t erio u s mat eria l is a v oi d e d T hey w i ll kee p safe l y for .

a l ong p erio d an d t he p rocess is a t once ine xp ensi v e an d a saving of

,

t ime I n t he case of horne d b eas t s w here t he hea d only is fre quen tly
.

p reser v e d I have no hesi t a t ion i n recommen d in g t his sys t em as t he

,

b es t O f course in such case t he skull an d horns are c l eane d an d

.

p acke d se p ara t el y I n cu tt ing off b ison an d s t ag s hea d s b e s u re t o

.
’

l eave a l ong neck t hey are t oo fre quen tl y cu t c l ose t o the j a ws an d ,

t his consi d erabl y mars the e ffec t w hen mo un t e d .

I t is im p or t an t for t he p ro p er p reser v a t ion of t he sku ll s of F eli d ce

t ha t they sho u ld b e p ro t ecte d from inj ury t o or l oss of the t ee th .

T his is b es t d one as fo ll o w s W hen t he sk u l l has b een b oi l e d an d :

cl eane d i t shou ld b e t ie d u p in a cal ico b ag an d pl ace d in a se p ara t e

,

com p ar t men t of t he p acking-case d esigne d for i t S t uffi ng sho u ld .

moreo v er b e p u t in t o each com p art men t t o p re v en t t he sku ll from

inj ury from b eing shaken
S MALL MA MMAL I A E r a —I n t he case of t he smal l mamma l s t he sk u ll
.

a n d b ones of t he l egs are t o b e l ef t in t he skins T he anima l b eing .

p lace d on i t s b ack incision is ma d e from t he s t ern u m (b reas t b one ) t o

,

roo t of the t ai l T he skin is t hen se p ara t e d from t he carcase s far as

. a

can b e c on v enien tl y reache d an d t he l im b s are se v ere d from t he b o d y

,
 THE HIGHLANDS OF CENTRAL I NDIA .

N o z es Me T r z éer , N a t u r a l [ fisz o ry
'
’
a nd I/Vz l a
'

‘
on F or es ts ‘
a nd Sp a r k .

B y CA P T A I N J . F O R S Y T H ,

Beng a l S t a j Co rp s
'

di t i n i th M I ll t t i n
.

New E o , w a p a nd u s ra o s . D e my 8 vo .

S O M E O P INIO NS O F T H E PR E S S .

A PH I C F RO M
“
T HE GR .

T S v o lu me ha s t he b y n o me a ns c o mm o n m eri t of b eing p recise l y w h at s u ch a

HI
b oo k o u g h t to b e Ca p ta i n Fo rsy t h w for m any ye a rs A ct i g Co n erv ato r o f a s n s

F o res t s C en t ral P m of I n d i a a n d a ft er wa r d s D e pu t y C mm w o f N im a r
.

ro v c es o iss ne r
H w r i t es l ike a s cho l a r a n at u r al i s t a n d a s p o r t sm a n a n d W i th a very fa ir s ha re o f
, , .

e
l i t er a ry sk il l ; a n d co n t r i ves i n a n e a sy u n affec t e d fa s h i o n to g i ve u s a w o n d erfu l
, , ,

a m o u n t of nfo rm at i o n c o nce r n i ng th e ha r d l y kn o wn reg i o n w h i c h w a s th e scene of

I

h i s d u t i es A S i / i of very h ig h p r e t ens i o ns h e u n do ub t e d l y w a s bu t a s w e
z e sa r

ha ve s a i d a n a r d en t n at u ra li s t a s w ll a n d h e seems t o ha ve ta ken at l e a s t a s m u ch
.
, ,

e
pl e a s u re in s t ud ying th e d en i ens o f h il l a n d fores t i n s laying th em T ho u g h
,

z a s

Cap ta in F o rsy th co ns i d e r s t i ger h u n t i ng a s a m ere e ffo r t of sk i ll fa r i nfe r i o r to th e re al

.

b l u e r ibb o n o f s p o r t s mans h i p s ta l k i ng th e I n d i a n bi s o n he co n fesses that i t m u s t

'

al wa ys h a ve attra c t i o ns of i t s w a n d w e h e art i l y co m m en d th e cha p t er w h i ch

, ,

o n,
c o n ta ins h is ad ven t u res i n th e pu rs ui t of th e k i ng of th e j ungl e W have n ot s p ace e

fo r e t ra c t s s o w e m u s t c o n t en t o u rsel ves b y s aying that a p le a sa n t er v ol u me i n i t s

.

o w n w a y w e h ave seldo m h ad th e g ood fo r t u ne to mee t W i t h

,

FR O M T H E AT H E NAE UM .

W h a ve in Ca p ta i F o rsy th s p o s th u m o u s w or k a w e ll- w ri tt en a n d p l ea sing n a rr

'

E n a

t ive co n ta i ning m u c h v a lu abl e i nfo r m a t i o n res p ec t i ng th e W i ld h i ll - tr ib es s o me

ad mir ab l e d escr i p t i o ns of scene r y a n i n t eres ti ng a cc o u n t of th e fo res t s d t h
, ,

a n e
sys t em of co nserv a ncy a n d very full d-e ta i l s o f s p o r t i ng c ap ab i l i t ies of th e C en t r al ,

i n t ers p erse d W i th m any w e ll to l d a n d m g i nc i d en t s of a S p o r t s m a n s

,

m
'
P ro v ce s , e xc n
l i fe ; fo r Ja mes F o rsy t h w a s a t r u e h u n t er a n d tal ks o f p oa c h i ng p r o c li v i t ies a n d ‘ ’

u ns p o r t sm a n l ike co n d u c t a s a m o ng th e d e adl y sins Ca pt a i Fo rsy th w a s a

,
‘ '
n
keen o b server a n d his p a ges a re ful l of s u g ges t i ve rem arks o n th e n at u r al p e c ul i a ri t ies
.

of th e reg i o n w hic h w a s th e scene of h i s lab o u rs A p er u s al of th is pl e a s a n t n a rra

,

t ive W i ll fu rn i s h th e re ad er w i th a co m p l e t e a cc o u n t of th e h ig h l a n d s of I n d i a of th eir
.

fo res t s of th e i r w i ld in hab i ta n t s a n d of ll th e g a m e t h at i s me t w i t h in th e i r re c esses

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FR O M T H E S AT UR D AY R E V I E W .

I N t he v ol u me n o w b e fo re u s t he l i gh t er a n d m o re p i c t u res qu e a s p ct s of t he e

co u n tr y fo rm th e s u bj ec t of a p o pul a r a n d a gree a b l e n a r rat i ve fr o m t he p en of Ca p ta in

Fo rsy th A r a p i d ye t c l e a r ske t ch of th e p h ys cal ge ogr a p h y of th e d i s t ric t w i th i

a n o u tl i ne of t he e t h olo gy of th e m g l ly m ar ke d t r ibes that in habi t t W i ll b e

.
,

n s u a r i

fo u n d in Ca p ta i n Fo rsy th s in t r od uctor y c ha p t er '

Ca p ta i n Fo rsy th d u t ies
,
’

s
call e d u p o n h im to e p lor e t he d i s t ric t a n d to w h i c h h e h a s d ev ot e d r are p o w ers of
.

o b servat i o n a n d gre at ins i g ht in t o c h ara c t er W har d l y kn o w w h ich to s p ea k o f

,

e
m o re hig hl y h is a cc o u n t s o f th e p h ys i c al fe at u res th e scenery a n d th e n at u ral
.

res o u rc es of th e co u t ry o r w hat h e ha s to t e l l u s of t he t r ib al d i s t i nc t i o ns t he
,

n
, ,

rel ig i o u s a n d s o c i al u s ages a n d oth er s t r o ng l y m arke d c haract er i s t ic s of th e pe o p l e

, ,

I n th e v ol u me at la rge h e ha s b equ e a t h e d to th e publ i c a n in t eres t ing rec o r d

, .

of a ca reer too e a rl y c u t s ho r t bu t al re ad y m ad e mem o r a bl e b y d u t ies fa i thfu ll y a n d

ab l y d is cha rge d a s w e ll a s b y a d egree of p r o mise w h i c h ren d ers i t s p rem at u re clo s
,

t he m o re ac u t e l y fe lt
, e
"
.

FRO M T H E S P E CTAT O R .

W h a ve l e ft o u rse l ves n s p ac e fo r a ny of th e s p o r t i ng ad ve t u res of w h i c h th ere

E o n
a re m a ny in t he v ol u me d escr i b e d w i t h m u c h S p i r i t I n d ee d t he w h ol e b oo k is
,

e t reme l y w e ll w r i tt en t erse l e a r a n d p i ct u res que a n d i t affo rd s an oth er ins ta n c e

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.

x c

of th e kin d a n d d eg r ee o f c ul t u re a n d b i l t y that ha s b een ha pp i l y in t r d u c e d i nto th e

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a o
g vernmen t a n d re g u lat i o n of Bri t is h I n d i a
o .