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TENTH EDITION
Ron Larson
Bruce Edwards
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Chapter 2: Differentiation 82
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Surround it with thin slices of ham, rectangles of bacon, and some poached
Frankfort or Strasburg sausages.
R C (C R )
C V P (S C )
2100—BRAISED CABBAGE
Quarter the cabbage; parboil and cool it.
Defoliate the quarters; suppress the outside leaves and the midribs of the
remaining leaves; season with salt and pepper, and put the cabbage in a
saucepan garnished with slices of bacon, and containing one quartered
carrot, one onion stuck with a garlic clove, one faggot, two-thirds pint of
consommé, and three tablespoonfuls of stock fat per two lbs. of cabbage.
Cover with slices of bacon; boil, and then braise gently for two hours.
2101—CHOU A L’ANGLAISE
Plainly boil or steam the cabbage. Press all the water out of it, between two
plates, and cut it into lozenges or squares.
2102—CHOU FARCI
Take a medium-sized round-headed or Savoy cabbage; parboil it; cool it,
and suppress its stump. Slightly open out its leaves, and insert between
them raw or cooked mince-meat, combined with chopped onion and
parsley, and highly seasoned. Reconstruct the cabbage, pressing it closely
together; wrap it in slices of bacon; string it, and braise it gently for three
hours with stock and stock fat.
When about to serve, drain the cabbage; remove the string and the slices of
bacon; set it on a dish, and cover it with a few tablespoonfuls of the
braising-liquor, cleared of all grease, reduced, and thickened with some
half-glaze sauce.
Send what remains of the braising-liquor separately.
N.B.—The preparation is improved if the mince-meat with which the
cabbage is stuffed be combined with a quarter of its bulk of pilaff rice and
the same quantity of foie-gras fat.
2103—SOU-FASSUM PROVENÇAL
Parboil and cool the cabbage as above; remove the outer large leaves, and
set them on a net.
Upon this litter of cabbage leaves lay the following products, mixed:—
The inside leaves of the cabbage, chopped up and seasoned; one-half lb. of
ciseled and blanched white of a leek; one and three-quarter lbs. of sausage-
meat; six oz. of lean bacon, cut into dice and frizzled; one chopped onion,
fried in butter; two chopped tomatoes; a crushed clove of garlic; three oz. of
blanched rice and four oz. of fresh, young peas.
Gather up the ends of the net, and close it in such a way as to reconstruct
the cabbage.
Cook it in mutton broth or in ordinary stock for three and one-half or four
hours.
Serve the sou-fassum plain, on a round dish.
2109—CHOU-FLEUR A LA CRÈME
Cut the cauliflowers into bunches; remove the small leaves which are
attached, and cook the cauliflower in salted water.
Thoroughly drain; set the bunches in a timbale, reconstructing the
cauliflower in so doing, or on a dish covered with a folded napkin, and
serve a cream sauce separately.
2110—CHOU-FLEUR AU GRATIN
Having well drained the cauliflower, dry it in butter for a few minutes;
mould it in a bowl, and pour a few tablespoonfuls of Mornay sauce into it.
Coat the bottom of a dish with the same sauce, and turn out the cauliflower
on the dish; completely cover with Mornay sauce; sprinkle with grated
cheese mixed with raspings; bedew with melted butter, and set the gratin to
form.
2111—CHOU-FLEUR A LA MILANAISE
Set the cauliflower on a buttered dish sprinkled with grated cheese. Also
sprinkle the cauliflower with cheese; add a few pieces of butter, and set the
gratin to form.
On taking the dish out of the oven, sprinkle the cauliflower with nut-brown
butter, and serve immediately.
2112—CHOU-FLEUR A LA POLONAISE
Thoroughly drain the cauliflower, and set it on a buttered dish.
Sprinkle it with chopped, hard-boiled egg-yolks and chopped parsley,
mixed. When about to serve, bedew with nut-brown butter, in which one-
half oz. of fine bread-crumbs (per three oz. of butter) should have been
fried.
B S (C B )
2122—CONCOMBRES A LA CRÈME
Peel, and cut the cucumber to shapes resembling olives; parboil and drain
these pieces. This done, three-parts cook them in butter; moisten with
boiling cream, and finish the cooking in reducing the cream. At the very last
moment add a little Béchamel sauce with the view of slightly thickening the
preparation, and dish in a timbale.
2123—CONCOMBRES GLACÉS
After having shaped them like large garlic cloves, quickly parboil them.
This done, treat them as directed under “Carottes glacées,” and roll them
sufficiently in their cooking-liquor, reduced to the consistence of a thick
syrup, to thoroughly coat them with it.
2124—CONCOMBRES FARCIS.—A
Cut the cucumbers into two-inch lengths; peel, parboil, and drain them.
Then hollow them out to form small, round cases; set them side by side in a
sautépan, and cook them in butter. When they are three-parts cooked, fill
them with a raw, chicken forcemeat, effecting this operation by means of a
piping-bag. The forcemeat should be slightly moulded in the cucumber
cases.
Complete the cooking of the cucumber, gently, while poaching the
forcemeat.
2125—CONCOMBRES FARCIS.—B
Peel the cucumbers; split them open lengthwise, and empty them by means
of a root-spoon. This done, parboil and drain without cooling them.
Garnish each half-cucumber, level with the edges, with a chicken
forcemeat, prepared with frangipan, and combined with a third of its weight
of Duxelles. Reconstruct the cucumbers by placing the halves one against
the other; wrap them each in a slice of bacon, and then in a piece of muslin,
and finally string them. This done, braise them in the usual way. When they
are cooked, remove their wrappings, and cut them into roundels the
thickness of which is determined by the size of the piece of which they are
the adjuncts.
2126—STACHYS (Crosnes du Japon)
Whatever be their mode of preparation, stachys must be cleaned, parboiled,
and kept firm, and cooked in butter without colouration.
2127—CROSNES A LA CRÈME
After having parboiled the stachys and three-parts cooked them in butter,
moisten with boiling cream, and complete their cooking while reducing the
cream. Add a little thin, fresh cream at the last moment, and dish in a
timbale.
2129—CROSNES AU VELOUTÉ
Completely cook the stachys in salted water. Drain them, and cohere them
with the required quantity of Velouté flavoured with mushroom essence.
2130—CROQUETTES DE CROSNES
Having cooked the stachys in salted water, and kept them somewhat firm,
thoroughly drain them and mix them with a very reduced Allemande sauce,
in the proportion of one-fifth pint per lb. of stachys. Spread this preparation
on a buttered dish, and cool. Now cut this preparation into portions
weighing about two oz.; shape these portions like balls, pears, quoits, or
otherwise, dip them in beaten eggs, and roll them in very fine bread-
crumbs.
Plunge these croquettes into very hot fat five or six minutes before serving;
drain them on a piece of linen; salt moderately, and dish on a napkin with
very green, fried parsley.
2131—PURÉE DE CROSNES
Cook the stachys in salted water, keeping them somewhat firm, and add
thereto four oz. of quartered potatoes per lb. of stachys.
As soon as they are cooked, drain the stachys and the potatoes; rub them
through a sieve, and dry the purée over a very fierce fire. Add the necessary
quantity of milk to bring the purée to its proper consistence; heat; add butter
away from the fire, and dish in a timbale.
2132—SPINACH (Épinards)
Spinach should only be prepared at the last moment, if possible.
After having parboiled it in plenty of boiling salted water, cool it, press out
all its contained water, and, according to circumstances, either chop it up or
rub it through a sieve.
If it has to be served with the leaves left whole, merely drain it on a sieve,
without either pressing or cooling it.
2133—ÉPINARDS A L’ANGLAISE
Cook it after having carefully shredded it; drain it well, and dish in a
timbale without cooling.
2134—ÉPINARDS A LA CRÈME
Having chopped up or rubbed the spinach through a sieve, put it into a
sautépan with two oz. of butter per lb., and dry it over a fierce fire.
Now add the quarter of its bulk of cream sauce to it, and simmer gently for
ten minutes.
Dish in a timbale when about to serve, and sprinkle the surface with fresh
cream.
2135—ÉPINARDS AU GRATIN
Dry the spinach as above in three oz. of butter per lb., and then, in the same
proportion, add two and one-half oz. of grated cheese.
Set on a buttered gratin-dish; sprinkle copiously with grated cheese and
melted butter, and set the gratin to form in a fierce oven.
2136—ÉPINARDS A LA VIROFLAY
Spread some large leaves of blanched spinach on a napkin, and in the
middle of each lay a subric, the substance of which should have been
combined with very small croûtons of bread-crumb fried in butter. Wrap the
subrics in the spinach leaves; cover with Mornay sauce; sprinkle with
grated cheese and melted butter, and set to glaze in a fierce oven.
2137—SUBRICS D’ÉPINARDS
Dry the spinach in butter as described above, and add to it per lb. of spinach
(away from the fire) one-sixth pint of very reduced Béchamel sauce; two
tablespoonfuls of thick cream; one egg and the yolks of three, well beaten;
salt, pepper, and nutmeg.
Make a sufficient quantity of clarified butter very hot in an omelet-pan.
Take up some of the preparation of spinach by means of a spoon, and let the
contents of the latter drop (propelled by the finger) into the butter. Proceed
thus in the making of the subrics, and take care that they do not touch.
When a minute has elapsed, turn them over with a spatula or a fork, that
their other sides may colour.
Set on a dish or in a timbale, and serve a cream sauce separately.
2144—FÈVES AU BEURRE
Having well-drained and peeled the broad beans, toss them over a fierce fire
to dry them, and then finish them, away from the fire, with three oz. of
butter per lb. of beans.
2145—FÈVES A LA CRÈME
After having dried and peeled the broad beans, cohere them (per lb.) with
three tablespoonfuls of thick, fresh cream.
2146—PURÉE DE FÈVES
Proceed exactly as for purée of peas. This purée constitutes a very delicate
garnish, which is particularly well suited to ham.
2147—GOMBOS
This vegetable—so common in America and the East—is only very rarely
used in England, where, however, it is now beginning to be better known.
There are two kinds of Gombos: the long and the round kind. The latter is
also called Bamia or Bamiès. Both kinds are prepared after the same
recipes.
2148—GOMBOS A LA CRÈME
After having trimmed them, parboil them in salted water and drain them.
Then cook them in butter, and, just before serving them, cohere them with a
cream sauce.
H -B (H B )
2158—HARICOTS PANACHÉS
This consists of French beans and flageolets, in equal quantities, cohered
with butter.
L (L )
2162—LAITUES FARCIES
Parboil, cool, and press the lettuces.
This done, open them in the middle without touching their stems, and
garnish them with good forcemeat, combined with half its bulk of dry
Duxelles (No. 223). Reconstruct the lettuces; string them; braise them, and
dish them as directed under No. 2160.
2164—LAITUES A LA CRÈME
Proceed as directed under No. 2089.
2165—SOUFFLÉ DE LAITUES
Proceed as directed under No. 2139.
L (L )
2166—LENTILLES AU BEURRE
Carefully drain the lentils; dry them by tossing them over the fire, and
cohere them with butter in the proportion of two oz. of the latter per lb. of
lentils.
Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with a little chopped parsley.
2167—PURÉE DE LENTILLES
Proceed as for the purée of haricot-beans.
2168—VÉRONIQUE (Laver)
As this vegetable is sold already cooked at English markets, it is only
necessary to add enough good Espagnole sauce to it, when heating it, to
make a properly consistent purée.
2169—MAIZE (Maïs)
Take the maize when it is quite fresh and still milky, and cook it either in
steam or salted water; taking care to retain the leaves on the ears. When
cooked, the leaves are drawn back so as to represent stalks, and the ears are
bared if they be served whole. This done, set the ears on a napkin, and send
a hors-d’œuvre dish of fresh butter to the table with them.
If the maize has to be grilled, put the ears on a grill in the oven, and, when
they have swollen and are of a golden colour, withdraw the grains and set
the latter on a napkin. Sometimes, too, the ears are served whole.
When maize is served as an accompaniment, the grains are separated from
the stalk and cohered with butter or cream, exactly like peas.
Failing fresh maize, excellent preserved kinds are to be found on the
market.
2172—CHESTNUTS (Marrons)
Slightly split open the shell on the convex sides of the nuts, and put them in
the oven for from seven to eight minutes, on a tray containing a little water,
that they may be shelled with ease.
Or, split them open in the same way; put them in small quantities at a time
in a frying-basket, and plunge them into very hot fat. Peel them while they
are still quite hot.
2173—STEWED CHESTNUTS
As soon as they are peeled, cook them in enough consommé to just cover
them, and add half a stick of celery per lb. of chestnuts.
If they are intended for the stuffing of a goose or a turkey, keep them
somewhat firm.
2176—TURNIPS (Navets)
Whether served as vegetables or as a garnish, turnips are prepared like
carrots. They may, therefore, either be served glazed, or “à la Crème,” &c.
They may also be served stuffed, after the following recipes:—
2177—STUFFED TURNIPS.—A
Take some round, medium-sized turnips, fairly equal in size. Peel them,
and, in so doing, shape them nicely; then, by means of a round fancy-cutter,
cut them deeply at their base, pressing the instrument into the pulp.
This done, thoroughly parboil and empty them.
With the withdrawn pulp, prepare a purée, to which add an equal quantity of
mashed potatoes. Garnish the turnips with this purée, and shape the visible
portion of the latter dome-fashion.
Set the stuffed turnips in a sautépan, and complete their cooking in butter,
taking care to baste them frequently.
2178—STUFFED TURNIPS.—B
Prepare the turnips as above; but stuff them with a preparation of semolina
cooked in consommé and combined with grated Parmesan.
Complete the cooking as directed in the preceding recipe.
N.B.—Proceeding in the same way, turnips may be stuffed with spinach,
chicory, and even with farinaceous vegetables or rice, kept very creamy. All
these garnishes are at once sightly and excellent.
2179—PURÉE DE NAVETS (Turnip Purée)
Slice the turnips and cook them in a little butter, salt, sugar, and the
necessary amount of water. Rub through tammy, and thicken the resulting
purée with only just the required quantity of very good mashed potatoes.
2180—TURNIP-TOPS
Young turnip-tops are very much liked in England as a luncheon vegetable.
They should be prepared like “Choux verts cooked à l’anglaise.”
O (O )
2181—STUFFED ONIONS
Take some medium-sized, mild, Spanish onions; cut them at a point one-
quarter of their height from the top, and parboil them thoroughly.
Empty them, leaving only a wall one-third in. thick; chop up the withdrawn
parts, and mix them with an equal quantity of Duxelles (No. 225).
Garnish the emptied onions with this preparation; complete their cooking
by braising them, and glaze them at the last moment, simultaneously with
the formation of the gratin.
N.B.—Proceed in the same way for onions stuffed with spinach, Rizotto, or
semolina, &c., as suggested under Nos. 2177 and 2178.
Onions may also be garnished with a soufflé preparation of spinach,
tomatoes, chicory, &c. Herein lies scope for a great variety of excellent and
uncommon garnishes.
2182—FRIED ONIONS
Cut them into roundels one-fifth in. thick; separate the rings; season them
with salt and pepper; dredge them and fry them in very hot oil.
Drain on a piece of linen and salt slightly.
Onions prepared in this way are used particularly as an accompaniment.