STYLE CARD

Style Number: 20-90-W-S Date: Dec 9/2022

Style Name: Women’s bustier top Season: Summer 2024
S�tch Guide

1-Needle

Double-pull metal zipper

Fold line

Topstitching

Fabric Guide

S Self
100% Acetate

L Lining
100% Acetate
(also made of self)

No�on Guide

Double-pull metal zipper

10mm plastic boning

Cotton boning casing

 STYLE CARD
Style Number: 20-90-W-S Date: Dec 9/2022
Style Name: Women’s bustier top Season: Summer 2024
S�tch Guide

1-Needle
Straps are also made of self
Double-pull metal zipper
fabric and are folded over

Fold line

Topstitching

Fabric Guide

S Self S L
100% Acetate

L S
Lining
100% Acetate
(also made of self)

Layer 1 2 3 4

Bustier is made of 4 layers of

100% acetate lining. 2 layers are
No�on Guide are inside the bustier to keep
the boning from showing on the
Double-pull metal zipper
outside as well as add stabiliza-
tion to the garment
10mm plastic boning

Cotton boning casing

 STYLE CARD
Style Number: 20-90-W-S Date: Dec 9/2022
Style Name: Women’s bustier top Season: Summer 2024
S�tch Guide

1-Needle

Double-pull metal zipper

Fold line

Topstitching

0.5cm topstitching

Fabric Guide

S Self
100% Acetate

L Lining
100% Acetate
(also made of self)

1cm boning placed

throughout bustier. 10
Pieces total of varying
lengths attatched at the
No�on Guide lining facing toward the
body.
Double-pull metal zipper

Bustier outer lining is the exact same

10mm plastic boning
fabric and pattern as the front
good-side. However, it contains plastic
boning on the interior that is then cov-
Cotton boning casing
ered with 2 layers of lining to prevent it
from showing to the front
1

Bustier Project
December 9, 2022
Victoria Chew
2

Table of Contents
Research – Reference Images

#1 Versace Corset Top…………………………………………………………………………pg.3

#2 Dynamite Corset Top……………………………………………………………………..pg.3-4

#3 Cider Corset Top…………………………………………………………………………....pg.4

#4 ALICE+OLVIA Bustier Crop Top…………………………………………………………pg.5

#5 SKIMS Glam Bustier……………………………………………………………………..pg.5-6

#6 HUNKEMÖLLER Seductress Underwire Faux Leather Bustier…………………………..pg.6

Bustier process……………………………………………………………………………...pg.7-14
References…….……………………………………………………………………………....pg.15
3

Research – Reference Images

#1 Versace Corset Top

The primary inspiration for the final design of the bustier is this Versace corset top. The
inspiration being the silhouette and general parameters of the garment, ending at the waist and
cinching the wearer in with a zipper. This style of corset top contains a v-shaped boning design
and is made of an acetate and viscose blend- much more matte compared to the acetate lining
used in the final bustier. (https://www.versace.com/international/en/women/clothing/blouses-
tops/medusa-corset-top-1b000/1006669-1A00540_1B000.html)

#2 Dynamite Corset Top

Aside from fitting the general style of the final bustier, this corset top inspired the boning
patterns throughout the garment. Generally keeping boning below the bust before going around
4

the perimeter of the garment. Unlike the final product, this and the Versace top both have
adjustable straps. This one is also made of polyester and spandex, giving a softer look and fit
which somewhat hampers the purpose of having boning in such a garment.
(https://www.dynamiteclothing.com/ca/p/satin-corset-
top/0749191.html?srsltid=AYJSbAfCIikee-xli93jemWRvU2RBhwihK2wN-XVTfqQMoU-
B8ewzSrgYkQ)

#3 Cider Corset Top

An interesting take on the style of corset top, it is made of cotton jersey, allowing it to stretch
and move around. There is no boning, and it is made so that the serging and finishing seams are
seen on the outside. The aesthetic is desirable on it which is why the final garment has design
lines inspired by this design.
(https://www.shopcider.com/product/detail?pid=1014987&style_id=114403&currency=CAD&s
ku_id=97819&utm_source=google_shopping&srsltid=AYJSbAetMDi9rAoh37sB6NodFzwtc5il
nQVpnmbW5DDNB5QoM3MN9NC1aB4)
5

#4 ALICE+OLVIA Bustier Crop Top

This emerald-green bustier is quite striking for its colour and boning showing through. However,
the most appealing aspect of it incorporated into the final product is the separated cups of the top.
Boned and topstitched showing how and what seams conforms to the body. It is quite beautiful
especially with the large green straps. This bustier inspired the construction of the top, having
more pieces that conforms to the body to create a feeling of very detailed and dedicated work.
(https://www.nordstrom.com/s/jeanna-bustier-crop-top/7232262?origin=keywordsearch-
personalizedsort&breadcrumb=Home%2FAll%20Results&color=300)

#5 SKIMS Glam Bustier

Elegant for its minimalistic style and front separating zipper, this top was a good contender in
6

terms of style and is machine washable and dryer friendly. It contains no boning and is a form of
shapewear for women created by Kim Kardashian West. It would have been an “inspired”
garment except for the fact that it would defeat the purpose of being a bustier. (It can technically
be counted as a bra or form of underwear though). (https://www.nordstrom.com/s/glam-bustier-
regular-plus-size/7101666?origin=keywordsearch-
personalizedsort&breadcrumb=Home%2FAll%20Results&color=003)

#6 HUNKEMÖLLER Seductress Underwire Faux Leather Bustier

More akin to something belonging to a female BDSM master, this edgy, faux-leather bustier is
boned and quite strappy. The design itself is quite unique except for the choice of material that
leads it into more unscrupulous territory for a school project. The only part of the final garment
inspired by this is the sharper look and seam lines to it.
(https://www.nordstrom.com/s/seductress-underwire-faux-leather-
bustier/7261591?origin=keywordsearch-
personalizedsort&breadcrumb=Home%2FAll%20Results&color=001)

(As for why the research photos are from the internet, it is difficult to find bustiers in stores right
now for the fall season. **)
 7

Bustier Process
Fig 3. Pattern pieces are finished and
then placed on to the self-fabric before
cutting. There are 4 layers of acetate
lining in total for the body of the bustier,
2 of which are of the drafted pattern to
keep the design lines on the bustier.

Fig 1. Sample Bustier is completed and drawn on.

Fig 2. Pattern is cut out and traced on to drafting paper.

The pictures here showcase how the

pattern was made. The size 8 KPU bustier
was a perfect fit, and it was then drawn
and labelled with design lines and
notches. After that, it was cut into pieces
and traced on drafting paper before a
1cm seam allowance was added on all
pattern pieces.
8

After the bustier pieces were cut out,

they were pinned and sewn together
separately, before being pressed with
an iron. It should be noted that the
iron had to be briefly pressed against
the fabric as to not melt it due to its
synthetic nature. The best-looking
piece would become the outside of the
bustier, where as the worst looking
one became the innermost lining
facing toward the body.

In this image, the inner layer lining pieces

were cut out and sewn together. To save
time, the pieces that were used were
that of the original bodice block because
the original shape was unaltered. The
two innermost lining pieces were sewn
together to act as reinforcement to the
bustier as well as hide the interior
boning.
9

Fig 4. Failed first strap.

For the straps of the bustier, the length of
them were measured by wearing the bustier
and using a tape measure to measure where
the straps would stop and end. It was then
used to make a 1.5cm long strap before
being turned inside-out with a safety pin.
This however, caused the strap to burst
open, leaving large holes and tears behind.
Instead, new straps were made by cutting
out a 6cm wide strip of the self fabric before
it was folded into quarters then topstitched.

Fig 5. Final good strap. It should be noted

here that it is partially melted from being
left under the iron too long.
10

Fig 6. Bustier inner most lining Fig 7. Attaching the fabric cups.
pieces. (Yes, the centre most one
is on backwards).

The bustier assembly process was quite simple, repeating

the same steps to produce multiple layers of pieces. 2 layers
of the bustier were basted together then had the straps
attached prematurely to them. Since it was too early to
attach the straps, the bustier was thicker to sew when that
area went under the presser foot.

Fig 8. Attaching the straps prematurely.

11

Fig 9. Boning is cut then trimmed

1cm smaller on both ends before
being sewn 1cm away from bustier
edges as to not get in the way. The
plastic boning was trimmed with a
nail clipper to create a rounded edge
and then filed down to make it
smoother and not as prone to
stabbing the wearer.

Initially, boning was not going to be attached due

to time constraints. It was also ordered a month
ago and not expected to arrive when the bustier
was due. However, because of its presence, and
otherwise lacking and low-effort bustier work, it
was decided to be added last minute before
finishing. Boning was added around the perimeter
of the bustier except for the seam lines that
would otherwise directly stab the bust. It was also
not added where the strap was connected, as the
strap was elongated to help prevent scrunching.
(It also added as a softer boning).
12

Fig 10. Boning on the bustier

and it being pushed down to
allow for the outer shell to
be attached.

The zipper was the most

difficult part of assembling
the bustier. It was trimmed
because the tails were
slightly longer than the
bustier itself before being
sewn down with a zipper
foot then flipped and
burrito’d on to the opposite
lining. Where the zipper is
attached is where the most
fraying and unsightly areas
are. This is because of the
choice of fabric and its
tendency to fray into wispy
yarns or tearing when being
seam-ripped. This, combined
with the longer zipper length
led to problems with
finishing, making the back of
the bustier more unsightly.
13

Fig 11. Bustier as an accordion.

Fig 12. Fixing and stitching any holes closed.

The final finishing process for the bustier was topstitching, (made harder because of first attaching
the zipper), flipping the bustier inside out without it rupturing, and ladder stitching any parts that
were open. This process was done by first by stitching-in-the-ditch with a zipper foot before
switching to a regular foot for topstitching. The bottom edges of the bustier were then pinned
together and sewn with a 1cm seam allowance, stopping near the middle of the bustier and
repeating for the other side. This created an opening that the bustier was flipped through/ birthed
through. Afterwards, checking for any holes and periodically flipping the bustier inside and outside
allowed for repairs to be made. For repairs that required more attention, they were ladder-stitched
by hand on the outside. The same was done for the opening where the bustier was flipped,
enclosing it for finishing.
 14

Fig 13. Flat bustier front and back

The final bustier could have turned out better if a different fabric was used. This one was too troublesome
by fraying so much. A different zipper could have also been used if one of an appropriate style and size
could be found at the current point in time. Also, it should be noted that one of the straps is flipped,
preventing it from lying flat on one’s shoulder. If this project were to be done again, a different fabric would
have been selected and a proper zipper would have been used to make construction easier. Strap adjusters
would also be added, and perhaps the top half of the bustier would be changed entirely. Removing the
straps altogether in favour for something like a partial collar.

Fig 14. Bustier front and back on dress form

 References

Bustier process photo collection. (2022). photograph.

Cider. (n.d.). Solid stitch corset tank top. Cider. Retrieved December 9, 2022, from

https://www.shopcider.com/product/detail?pid=1014987&style_id=114403¤cy=CAD&sk

u_id=97819&utm_source=google_shopping&srsltid=AYJSbAetMDi9rAoh37sB6NodFz

wtc5ilnQVpnmbW5DDNB5QoM3MN9NC1aB4

Glam Bustier. Nordstrom.com. (n.d.). Retrieved December 9, 2022, from

https://www.nordstrom.com/s/glam-bustier-regular-plus-

size/7101666?origin=keywordsearch-

personalizedsort&breadcrumb=Home%2FAll+Results&color=003

Jeanna Bustier Crop Top. Nordstrom.com. (n.d.). Retrieved December 9, 2022, from

https://www.nordstrom.com/s/jeanna-bustier-crop-top/7232262?origin=keywordsearch-

personalizedsort&breadcrumb=Home%2FAll+Results&color=300

Satin Corset Top. Dynamite. (n.d.). Retrieved December 9, 2022, from

https://www.dynamiteclothing.com/ca/p/satin-corset-

top/0749191.html?srsltid=AYJSbAfCIikee-xli93jemWRvU2RBhwihK2wN-

XVTfqQMoU-B8ewzSrgYkQ

Seductress Underwire Faux Leather Bustier. Nordstrom.com. (n.d.). Retrieved December 9,

2022, from https://www.nordstrom.com/s/seductress-underwire-faux-leather-

bustier/7261591?origin=keywordsearch-

personalizedsort&breadcrumb=Home%2FAll+Results&color=001
Versace women's Medusa corset top in black: Versace. Versace. (n.d.). Retrieved December 9,

2022, from https://www.versace.com/international/en/women/clothing/blouses-

tops/medusa-corset-top-1b000/1006669-1A00540_1B000.html