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8/21/23, 2:36 PM A Short Guide To Bukhara | Uzbekistan's Holiest City - The Sandy Feet

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A SHORT GUIDE TO BUKHARA |


UZBEKISTAN’S HOLIEST CITY

Along Uzbekistan’s silk road, Bukhara is another key character rising from the rolling
saffron sands of the Kyzylkum Desert.
Set between the slightly chaotic scenes of Samarkand and the labyrinthine alleyways of
Khiva, Bukhara is a happy medium. An ocean of mosques and minarets, ornate
craftsmanship and intricate tilework, turquoise domes and leafy plazas peppered between
the modern sprawl of the city.

It’s a place that despite being heavily restored still feels very much lived in, and where the
heaving tourist trade does not overwhelm the city streets. After the sometimes frenetic
buzz that sweeps across elsewhere in Uzbekistan, Bukhara was a breath of fresh air and
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should be an essential stop on your Uzbekistan itinerary.

You can easily spend at least two days soaking up the city’s many sights and streets and
these are our picks of the best things to do in Bukhara.

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TOP THINGS TO DO IN BUKHARA


CHILL OUT AT LYABI HAUS
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This leafy oasis in the heart of old Bukhara is a place of people watching and relaxation.

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The pool which makes a central meeting place in town is rimmed by quaint cafes that
back onto mosaic-adorned madrassas and monuments. You’ll most likely pass through
here a number of times during your visit so make the time to sit, wait and watch the world
go by.

WANDER THROUGH THE COVERED BAZAARS

When we visited in October, this curious network of markets was surprisingly empty, but it
wasn’t hard to imagine the atmospheric clamour that must have filled these halls over the
centuries.

Unfortunately these days it is only souvenir stalls that spill over every surface, but if
you’re looking for some mementoes to take back with you, this is a good place to start.
The domed roofed bazaars are also a wonderfully cool place to escape to if you’re visiting
in the sweltering heat of summer.

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READ NEXT: THE BEST THINGS TO DO IN KHIVA | OUR FAVOURITE UZBEK TOWN!

GET LOST BETWEEN THE DELICATE ARCHWAYS AND SOARING MINARET


OF THE POI KALYAN COMPLEX

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Kalon Minaret | If there’s something old-world Uzbekistan was exceptionally good at, it
was designing minarets. Unlike many others which are dressed in bright colours, the
sepia walls of Kalon Minaret are embellished with intricate brick patterns making it

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something incredibly unique. The structure has stood here for nine centuries, its beauty
even causing it to be spared by Genghis Khan.

Kalon Mosque | This enormous space is one of few places along Uzbekistan’s silk road
route not infiltrated by souvenir stalls, and the difference is stark. Still used as a house of
prayer, peace and tranquillity bleed into every corner of the open courtyard and network of
simple white archways that encircle the lonesome tree that stands in its centre. Away
from the bustle found in other parts of the city, this quickly became our favourite place to
visit in Bukhara.

Entrance Fee | 7,000 som ($0.90) valid for 2 days. Only charged when there is an
attendant on duty.

Mir-I-Arab Madrassa | The startling blue dome atop the Mir-I-Arab Madrassa is one of
Bukhara’s most impressive sights. Unfortunately, tourists can only venture as far as the
foyer from where you can gaze through the latticed window onto the central courtyard.

EXPERIENCE THE REAL BUKHARA IN BLACK AND WHITE

Tucked away in a small tree-shaded plaza off Jubar Street, this intriguing black and white
photo gallery is free and well worth a visit in Bukhara. The striking imagery by local
photographer Shavkat Boltaev gives a glimpse at the authentic side of Bukhara away from
the tourist hoards and dressed up monuments, amidst a raging sandstorm or beneath a
blanket of snow. A surprising stop that will leave you mesmerised and curious to explore
the city even deeper.

Prints and postcards are sold inside and are a great way to support the gallery.

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STOP BY PRETTY LITTLE CHAR MINAR 󰊐

Nestled amongst the rambling suburbs of Bukhara and away from the main historical
complex lies charming little Char Minar, the four-domed temple that adorns the current

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cover of the region’s Lonely Planet. Inside is a crowded souvenir stand, but for a small fee
you can climb to the upper level for decent views over the city.

ESSENTIAL READING: THE ULTIMATE PACKING GUIDE FOR CENTRAL ASIA!

VISIT THE ARK, BUKHARA'S ANCIENT FORTRESS

This enormous white washed military fortress that housed many of the ancient kingdom’s
royals is Bukhara’s oldest structure and home to several museums. Admittedly much of
the site was closed during our visit, though we found the undulating protective falls the
most interesting part.

Just across the road, the wooden pillars and intricate ceiling of Bolo-Hauz
Mosque present some interesting frescoes and is a worthwhile stop.

Entrance fee | 15,000 som ($1.90) entry plus 5,000 som ($0.60) camera fee.

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WHERE TO EAT IN BUKHARA 󰊐

Cafe Wishbone | Kind of a tourist trap. Yes. Delicious and exactly what we wanted.
Absolutely!

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After months in Central Asia, what a delightful surprise it was to find a touch of traditional
Germany in the heart of Bukhara. Sure, one serving is about the same as you’d pay for an
entire meal elsewhere, but a slice of delicious apple strudel and hot chocolate on a cold
autumn day was exactly what we needed. Rumour has it they serve a decent cup of
coffee as well. Choose a seat on the lovely shaded terrace to enjoy the goings on around
town.

Address | Ulitsa Khakikat, in the open walkway between the covered bazaar and Poi-
Kalyan Complex.

Website | TripAdvisor

Chashmai Mirob | This charming restaurant boasts a warm welcome and decent food,
but the real reason to wander into this hidden haunt is the wonderful views overlooking
the Poi-Kalyum Complex. Prices are unsurprisingly a little higher here than elsewhere in
the city, but the fresh salads and speciality pumpkin manti were a welcome change after
months of plov. Though this place was completely empty when we rocked up in October,
it’s a popular spot for large groups in the high season. Stop by for lunch or a sunset drink.

Address | Hoja Nurabad, in a small side street and up the stairs

Or check the latest reviews on TripAdvisor.

Chinar | This large restaurant serves up all the Uzbek staples including a wide range of
salads and perfectly grilled shashlyk at a very reasonable price. It’s popular with tourists
and locals alike and we enjoyed it so much that we returned for both evenings in Bukhara.
The eggplant salad, one of our favourite dishes in Uzbekistan, is particularly good. Salads
start at around 10,000 som ($1.30) and shashlyk at 8,000 som ($1).

Address | Bakhowuddin Nakshabandi east of Lyabi Haus

Or check the latest reviews on TripAdvisor.


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DON’T MISS: THE BEST THINGS TO DO IN SAMARKAND!


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WHERE TO STAY IN BUKHARA


Rumi | A great budget-friendly option in Bukhara, this large family-run guesthouse is
where we stayed and includes a delicious breakfast and is well located within a 5-minute
walk of Lyabi Haus. There is also ample parking space for cyclists and those on a road
trip across the region. Dormitory and private rooms are available.

Search for rates and availability here.

Serrafon B&B | This clean and cosy bed and breakfast makes an excellent base for
exploring Bukhara. Set in a traditional house with authentic decor sprinkled throughout
the property, a delicious breakfast and a great location, it’s no surprise Serafshon gets
rave reviews from its guests!

Search for rates and availability here.

Lyabi Haus Hotel | Set right on the Lyabi Haus plaza in the heart of Bukhara’s historic
centre, this beautiful hotel is a longtime favourite for visitors. Some rooms are a little time
worn, but the exceptional breakfast and beautiful outdoor settings more than make up for
it.

Search for rates and availability here.

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HOW TO GET TO BUKHARA


Despite being one of the main places to visit in Uzbekistan, Bukhara is not as well
connected as you might expect.

From Samarkand and Tashkent | Trains run several times daily between Tashkent and
Bukhara via Samarkand taking just under 4 hours on the fast train and slightly longer on
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the old Soviet trains. Prices start at 59,000 som ($7.50) for a seat in third class on a slow
train and go upwards from there.

You can now search train tickets and timetables on the Uzbek Railway website. By
entering your start and end destinations in English, the relevant station will appear in

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Cyrillic so be sure to choose correctly.

Uzbekistan Airways also travels between Bukhara and Tashkent most days with prices
starting at $32 for the 1-hour flight. Search for the best flight deals here.

From Khiva | Getting between Khiva and Bukhara by train is possible but involves a
rather inconvenient late night connection in Navoi and switching to a taxi in Urgench for
the final leg to Khiva. Instead, we’d recommend taking a taxi between the two cities. A
shared taxi of 4 people generally costs around 100,000 som ($12.50) per person and
takes around 6 hours depending on the craziness of your driver.

Your guesthouse should be able to organise this for you and put you with fellow travellers
going the same route. In high season, there should be no shortage of other travellers
zipping between these cities, but in the dead of winter it may be a different story.

Another option is to head to Karvon Bazaar about 5 km from the centre of Bukhara and
find a shared taxi to Urgench here. Prices work out about the same.

PIN IT!

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OUR COMPLETE CENTRAL ASIA ITINERARY

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2 COMMENTS

DEEPESH JAIN
 September 27, 2019 at 8:23 pm

We are also planning to visit Uzbekistan end of OCT, early November. Do you think it’s a good
time to go. Would it be too empty ?

Thanks

 Reply

FREYA
 October 6, 2019 at 11:06 am

I think that’s a great time to go, just be prepared for some slightly chilly
temperatures! Honestly, I’d prefer it to be too empty rather than too busy but I’m
sure at that time of year there will still be people about. Have a great trip 🙂

 Reply 󰊐

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