THE PURPOSE OF AN FDS

FDS IS SHORT FOR FABRIC DATASHEET. And, it’s crazy to me that this
document is not more accessible to startup founders. It’s fashion
industry basics 101 – even interns know what an FDS is and how to use
one.

Yea, fashion is fun. But, it’s also a science. What a lot of people don’t
understand is that going to school for fabric is actually a textile
engineering degree.

An FDS is a document for a single fabric that contains all of the

technical sciency data, in a way that makes sense to everyone. This info
is crucial to doing your sourcing and product development correctly.
It’s basically the cheat sheet to a textile engineering degree.

An FDS will help you with everything from fabric selection, to how
your garment pattern is graded and cut, to the care instructions on
your tags, to your timelines, prices, and even profits.

This quick little document is what you need to make your sourcing and
product development process not only just quicker, but cheaper.

Happy Sourcing!
Melanie - Founder, virtue + vice

AND, FOR MORE FREE RESOURCES, CLICK ON OVER TO THE BLOG

 FABRIC DATA SHEET
TECHNICAL FABRIC DETAILS

QUALITY NUMBER:

CONTENT:

YARNS:

DENISITY:

WEIGHT:

CONSTRUCTION:

WIDTH/ CUTTABLE:

SHRINKAGE:

SAMPLING

MOQ:

PRICE:

VALIDITY DATE:

LEAD TIME:

EXTRA CHARGES:

PRODUCTION

MOQ:

PRICE:

VALIDITY DATE:

LEAD TIME:

EXTRA CHARGES: hello@reallygreatsite.com | www.reallygreatsite.com

 WHAT IT ALL MEANS
1. QUALITY NUMBER

You can think of a fabric quality number like its name. It is usually a long series of numbers
and letters that the supplier gives the fabric. When you order sample yardage or bulk
production, this is the reference number you will use on your PO (purchase order).

While you can internally rename fabrics however you want so, they are easier to remember
and reference; always make sure to use the supplier-given quality number when talking to
your supply chain partners.

2. FIBER CONTENT

You've probably seen this on the care labels in the clothes in your closet – something like
100% cotton, or 95% polyester/5% cotton.

This is a percent value that represents the fiber quantities in a fabric.

Now here is where a lot of newbie brands go wrong. They become obsessed with getting
the exact fiber blend their competitor has. And this is a rookie mistake that will delay
sourcing and sampling.

The truth is, the fiber content is only a small piece of the puzzle when getting a fabric just
right.

It is not only possible but common for two fabrics with the exact same fiber content to feel
and look totally different. This is because things like knit or weave structure, weight, and
finishing affect the final fabric.

We will get more into all of that in just a minute. For now, know that while it is important to
know and understand fiber content, it is not the full picture.

3. FABRIC WEAVE OR KNIT TYPE

There are only three categories of fabric. They are

knits (think t-shirts or swimwear)

woven (think jeans)
and non-wovens (special textiles, like the stuff pandemic face masks are made of)

All three categories of fabric have very different properties.

For example. Knits tend to be much more stretchy, but shrink more in the wash. While
wovens are more stable (read less shrinkage) but have little to no stretch (unless you add in
spandex).
There are also subcategories to think about.

With knits, there are jerseys, ribs, interlock, and more. And with wovens, there are plain,
twill, satin, dobby, and jacquard weaves.

And, each of the above-listed constructions have different properties.

For example, twill weaves are the strongest, satin weaves produce the shinest most
luxurious fabric, and plain weaves tend to be the cheapest.

I know what you're thinking... How am I supposed to know what kind of fabric I should
use?

To determine what type of fabric construction is best for you, first, you need to know your
final product. The strength of a twill weave is perfect for everyday hard-wearing denim, but
would not give the movement needed for an evening gown that a satin weave can give.

New brands often reach out to fabric suppliers before they have finalized their designs.
And, while it might seem logical to reach out to fabric suppliers first because you need
fabrics to make clothing. It is actually the opposite of what you should be doing.

4. YARN SIZE

Yarn size represents the thickness of the yarn. This is important because it affects the
overall appearance of a fabric.

Thinner yarn sizes tend to produce higher quality, more drapey fabrics.

Thinner yarn sizes are also more expensive.

That is because thinner yarns are harder to produce, and they tend to be higher quality,
creating garments that last longer.

Fun fact. Each fiber has its own yarn numbering system that describes the yarn thickness.
Cotton yarns use the cotton count, while polyester uses a unit of measure called the denier.

When you are you speaking to a supplier about yarns, always make sure you are using
the right unit of measuring system.

5. FABRIC DENSITY

Fabric density is how many yarns are in a fabric per inch. It is represented in both the warp
(horizontal) and weft (verticle) directions. A fabric density number might look something
like this 110x90. Meaning, there are 110 yarns in 1-inch horizontally, and 90 yarns per inch
vertically.
Fabric density affects opacity, shrinkage, and even price.

The lower the fabric density, generally the more sheer a fabric will be, the more it will
shrink, and the cheaper it is.

As you increase the yarn density, the price increases, and fabric shrinkage tends to
decrease.

6. WIDTH + CUTTABLE WIDTH

There is a difference between width and cuttable width.

The width of a fabric is measured from side to side. But, here is the thing, fabrics get kind
of wonky toward the edges (also called selvage). So, you can’t always use the complete
width.

An example of this would be if a fabric is 42” wide, but the cuttable width is only 38”.

This means that when the garment pattern is laid down on the fabric to cut, it must not be
placed within 2” on either side of the edge. If it goes all the way to the very edge, it could
cause, warping and uneven shrinkage.

It is important to know the cuttable width because it will affect your pattern
consumption. Changing the width of a fabric by just 1” can increase the fabric
consumption by up to 1 meter, depending on how the pattern is placed.

7. WARP AND WEFT SHRINKAGE

All fabric shrinks. Yes, even pre-shrunk fabric shink a little bit.

And, if you are working with a fabric that has high shrinkage, you need to take this into
account because it can affect not just your final product but your bank account.

If your garment requires 1 meter of fabric and you want to make 100 garments, you might
think you need to order 100 meters. But, if the fabric shrinks 5% that means that after you
have it pre-shrunk, you will only have 95 meters, meaning you can only make 95 shirts…
even though you paid for enough fabric to technically make 100 pieces.

So, when you are budgeting, always make sure to keep in mind shrinkage. Again, knits
tend to have very high shrinkage compared to wovens.

8. FINISHES

Finishes can be mechanical or chemical. And they are applied at the very end of the fabric
supply chain.

Mechanical finishes are things like brushing fabric to make fleece or even cutting fabric.
Did you know that French terry cloth and velvet actually start out as the same fabric?
The only difference is that velvet has its loops cut.

Chemical finishes are things like waterproofing, stain resistance, or anti-wrinkle finishes.
They are chemicals that are applied to fabrics to change how they behave.

Chemical finishes can often (not always) be toxic. So make sure to do your research.

In the finishes section, dye and print capabilities are also usually included.

9. TESTING

There are hundreds of different fabric tests that you can request. From color resistance to
UV rays or chlorine to the strength of a fabric. Or, even how many microfibers are
released.

These tests are scientific and done in a lab. And they tend to cost a ton of money.

Most startup brands do not invest in testing. But, if there is a quality promise that is
integral to your brand's image, you might want to consider investing in the proper testing.

10. SAMPLE MOQ

An MOQ is a minimum order quantity. This is the minimum amount of fabric that must be
ordered.

A sample MOQ is exactly what it sounds like, the minimum sample order allowed.
Sample MOQs can range from one to hundreds of yards, depending on the supplier

11. SAMPLE LEAD TIME

The sample lead time is how long it takes for the supplier to get you your yardage
once you order.

If the fabric is available in their warehouse, it could take a few days. If it is custom, it could
take months. Yes, you read that correctly, months.

12. SAMPLE PRICE

The sample price will always be more than the bulk price. It is uslaly on averabe about 2x.
So a fabric that is $10 per yard for your bulk order, will usually be about $20 for your
sampling.
13. PRODUCTION MOQ

Same as the sample MOQ, but this time for production.

Production MOQs tend to start around 300 yards or more.

14. PRODUCTION LEAD TIME

This is how long it will take to get your production fabric order.

Note that, unlike sample fabric that is sometimes available in a warehouse, production
usually needs to be custom-made. The industry average for a custom production fabric
run is three months from the time of order.

It is important to know this lead time because it will help you to set your seasonal timelines,
and manage your customer expectations.

15. PRODUCTION PRICE

As I mentioned above the production price will usually be about ½ the sampling price. But,
every fabric supplier works differently.

16. VALIDITY DATE

This is the date for how long the pricing and other info is good for.

When you get pricing from a mill, it is not good forever, especially in these times with rapid
inflation. So, there will be a validity date that the document is good until. Once that date
passes, you will need to request for the FDS to be updated.

Make sure to keep your FDS up to date so you can accurately cost your garments and
not be hit with surprise cost increases.