Global Textile Congress, Bangkok, 13-15 Feb 2015

Upcycling of Textile Materials

M. D. Teli1, Sanket Valia1, Kavita Kadu1 and Monali Dahale1.
1
Fibres and Textile Processing Department, Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai
< kavita17april@gmail.com, monalidahale@gmail.com >

Abstract: The process where waste products are converted into new materials of better quality and a higher
environmental value is UPCYCLING i.e. remaking of textile materials to something new of greater value.
Upcycling is necessary as a substitute for producing new things to meet the increasing demands being a greener
way of recycling. Moreover, by making use of already existing materials the consumption of new raw materials
for new products is reduced which can result in a reduction of energy usage, air pollution, water pollution and
CO2 emissions hence making it an incremental step towards achieving zero waste. Upcycling projects involve
creative ways of using old products and materials by using pre-consumer or post-consumer waste or a
combination of the two. Upcycling brings hope and a possible solution to environmental dilemmas as reimaging
and reusing have minimal after effects. This paper investigated the upcycling of various textile materials from
the waste and unused fabrics by revamping and creating new products. Twelve different products were upcycled
from waste and unused materials by giving various treatments to them like washing, stripping, bleaching,
dyeing, printing etc converting them into fashionable products. Upcycling of textile waste truly is the next
frontier in environmentally responsible clothing and many other products.

Keywords: Upcycling, CO2 emissions, recycling, zero waste.

1. Introduction
Upcycling is a process where waste or useless products are converted into new materials or products of equal or
better quality or a higher environmental value [1]. The goal of upcycling is to prevent the wasting of potentially
useful materials by making use of the existing ones. Supporters of the environmentally friendly practice of
upcycling claim that developing countries have been upcycling for years, re-using packaging and old clothing in
new ways, although more concerned about their own need than the environment. Now upcycling is taking off in
developed countries as well, reflecting an increase in interest for eco-friendly products.
Recycling requires energy and resources to gather, sort and process the waste only to make something less out
of it [2]. Hence, upcycling is an even greener way of recycling, and better environmentally. Moreover, by
making use of already existing materials the consumption of new raw materials for new products is reduced
which can result in a reduction of energy usage, air pollution, water pollution and CO2 emissions. Zero waste is
a philosophy that encourages the re- use of materials where any trash sent to landfills is minimal. It is seen as an
ultimate goal, and it means an end to recycling. Upcycling is an incremental step towards achieving zero waste.
Today, products are designed with “built-in obsolescence” to only last for a short time. The purpose of this is to
allow or even to encourage the customer to get rid of it as soon as possible and buy a new item. This is common
in the fashion industry. People choosing to deal with upcycling instead join the implementation of strategy of
change, towards the concept cradle to cradle [3]. A key step in the cradle to cradle practice is consequently
upcycling where a closed-loop cycle arises from the theoretical possibility of producing an unlimited number of
products from the same resources.
Upcycling brand uses textile waste as a resource to create new products, green jobs and good growth. As it is a
profit-driven enterprise there is naturally money to be made by selling the products on to their customers. Cost
reductions and marketing benefits are other advantages that can be attained when selling upcycled products. The
vendors also promote sustainable innovation and education within the company and to customers. These
elements help the vendor to build brand value through differentiation and sustainability orientation.

2. Method
Twelve different textile materials were upcycled by giving them various treatments:-

2.1 Washing
All the fabrics to be upcycled were given a thorough alkaline soap wash. The garments were washed in garment
dyeing machine @ 60 0C for 1 hour. After washing the garments were dried.

Upcycling of textile materials

M. D. Teli, Sanket Valia, Kavita Kadu and Monali Dahale
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 Global Textile Congress, Bangkok, 13-15 Feb 2015
2.2 Stripping
 Required amount of water is taken into the machine, garment is loaded and run for 5-10 mins at room
temperature.
 Caustic was added at room temperature for 5 mins and run for 10 mins.
 Temperature is increased to 110 oC and run for 40 mins.
 Cool at 800C and inject hydrose for 5 mins.
 Temperature is increased to 110 0C and run for 10 mins.
 Run for 30 mins and cool at 800C.
 Rinse for sometime, then give a cold wash and then dry.

2.3 Bleaching
H2O2 bleaching:
 Weigh the samples.
 Take the required amount of Na-silicate (1.5 GPL) and Na-hydroxide (1GPL).
 Add samples in the above solution and keep it in the water bath till the required temperature is attained.
 After the required temperature (80-85ºC) is attained, add the measured quantity of hydrogen peroxide
bleach to the water bath.
 Keep the above solution in the water bath for about 1 hour at the constant temperature of 80-85ºC.
 After an hour, take out the samples and wash them thoroughly and Dry the samples.
2.4 Dyeing
Dyeing was carried out using various dyes such as direct dyes, reactive dyes, vat dyes and natural dyes [4].
2.5 Printing
Types of printing used were block printing and screen printing [5].

3. Results

Sr. Initial Final Method Before After

No. Material Product
1. Waste pieces of Carpet Long rope made from pieces
fabrics. and then pleated & stitched.

2. Faded Dupatta. Scarf Stripped duppatta was tie

and dyed using natural dyes
– turmeric & sapanwood.

3 Waste Garment Bag Waste Garment converted to

bag by stitching and then
reactive printing.

Upcycling of textile materials

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 Global Textile Congress, Bangkok, 13-15 Feb 2015

Sr. Initial Final Method Before After

No. Material Product
4 Waste faded Handbag Jeans were upcycled
Jeans to a handbag by
stiching it.

5 Waste Cotton Printed Screen Printing with

Fabric Handkerchief Reactive dye.

6 Waste Duppatta Scarf Waste Dupatta was

Indigo dyed and was
cut into scarf.

7 Cotton Fabric Table cloth Cotton fabric tie and

died with direct dyes
and printed with
Reactive dyes

8 Faded Jeans Upcycled Overdyed with

Jeans Indigo Vat dye

9 Off white Tshirt Dyed T-shirt Off white T-shirt was

madder dyed.

Upcycling of textile materials

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 Global Textile Congress, Bangkok, 13-15 Feb 2015

Sr. Initial Final Method Before After

No. Material Product
10 Waste Tshirt Upcycled T- T-shirt was bleached.
shirt

11 Waste Tshirt Upcycled T-shirt was printed

Tshirt with Reactive dyes.

12 Waste Cotton Waste cotton fabric

Fabric Handkerchief bleached and the
printed with Reactive
dye.

4. Conclusion
It’s tough to say if upcycling textile waste will be the next frontier. It’s definitely a necessary step in closing the
loop on textile manufacturing. The concept of taking waste and reimagining, reusing and reinventing it is a new-
fangled idea as the materials are free and in frightening abundance, the aftereffects on the environment are
minimal or none and consumers gain the satisfaction of buying and using something potentially wasteful in a
new and thrilling context – again and again .So if it takes turning all of this excess material into cool, hip and
fashionable products to get people to wake up to these facts, then yes, textile waste truly is the next frontier in
environmentally responsible clothing and many other products!

5. References
[1] Upcycling: The New Wave of Sustainable Fashion: http://www.triplepundit.com/2014/05/upcycling-new-wave-
sustainable-fashion/.
[2] Recycling & Upcycling - Textiles Environment Designwww.tedresearch.net/media/files/Recycling. Upcycling.pdf
[3] Kate Goldsworthy. RESURFACED: Using Laser Technology To Create Innovative Surface Finishes For Recyclable,
Synthetic Textiles.www.cuttingedgesymposium.com/pdf/kate-goldsworthy-paper.pdf
[4] Natural Dyes http://www.dyes-pigments.com/natural-dyes.html
[5] O ECOTEXTILES-Printing https://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/2012/01/13/printing-part-2

Upcycling of textile materials

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