BELTED SALWAR

MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED
Salwar length – 100cm
Hip round – 90 cm
Bottom round – 38cm
FORMULAE :
BELT WIDTH = 1/6th Hip Round + 2.5cm (ease) = 90/6 + 2.5 = 17.5cm
CROTCH DEPTH = 1/3rd Hip Round + 5cm (ease) = 90/3 + 5 = 35cm
CONSTRUCTION STEPS (SALWAR):
(0-1) = Salwar length – Belt width = 100 - 17.5 = 82.5cm
(0-2) = ½ of Hip Round = 90/2 = 45cm
(2-3) = Crotch Depth – Belt Width = 35 – 17.5 = 17.5cm
(1-4) = ½ of Bottom Round = 38/2 = 19cm
(2-5) = (3-6) = 4 cm (for crotch shaping)
Join (5-6) with a straight line
Join (5-3) with a smooth curve for crotch shaping
Join (4-6) with straight line
Draw a curve from 3 into (4-6) line
(1-a) = 5cm
(a-b)=(1-4) + 1cm=20cm and Join (4-b)
CUTTING POINTS :
SALWAR : (0-5-3-4-b-a) ON-FOLD:(0-a) CUT : 2 pieces

CONSTRUCTION STEPS : (BELT) :

(0-1) = Belt width = 17.5cm
(0-2) = ½ of Hip Round + 5cm (ease) = 90/2 + 5 = 50cm
Square across from 1 and square down from 2 and mark ‘3’
(0-a) = (2-b) = 5cm (For casing) Join (a-b)

CUTTING POINTS :
BELT : (a-b-3-1) CUT : 1 Piece
 BELTED CHUDIDAR
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED
Chudidar length -100cm Knee to calf length – 12-14cm
Hip round – 90 cm Calf round – 34cm
Knee round – 36cm Ankle round – 24cm
FORMULAE :
BELT WIDTH = 1/6th Hip Round + 2.5cm (ease) = 90/6 + 2.5 = 17.5cm
CROTCH DEPTH = 1/3rd Hip Round + 2.5cm (ease) = 90/3 + 2.5 = 32.5cm
CONSTRUCTION STEPS :
(0-1) = Chudidar length – Belt width = 100 - 17.5 = 82.5cm
(1-2) = 20cm (for gathers)
(0-3) = 1/4th of Hip Round + (5cm to 7cm) for gathers = 90/4 + 7 = 29.5cm
(0-4) = (3-5) = Crotch Depth – Belt Width = 32.5 – 17.5 = 15cm
(5-6) = 5 cm (for crotch shaping)
Join (3-6) with a curve for crotch shaping
‘7’ is the mid-point of (1-4)
(7-8) = ½ of Knee Round = 36/2 = 18cm
(7-9) = Knee to calf length = 14cm
(9-10) = ½ of Calf round = 34/2 = 17cm
(2-11) = ½ of Ankle round = 24/2 = 12cm
Join (6-8) with curve and (8-10-11) with a straight line
(2-a) = (11-b) = 3cm and Join (a-b)
CUTTING POINTS :
CHUDIDAR : (0-3-6-8-10-11-b-a) On-fold:(0-2) Cut : 2 pieces

CONSTRUCTION STEPS : (BELT) :

(0-1) = Belt width = 17.5cm
(0-2) = ½ of Hip Round + 5cm (ease) = 90/2 + 5 = 50cm
Square across from 1 and square down from 2 and mark ‘3’
(0-a) = (2-b) = 5cm (For casing) and Join (a-b)
CUTTING POINTS :
BELT : (a-b-3-1) ON-FOLD:(0-1) CUT : 1 Piece
 PLAIN CHUDIDAR
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED
Chudidar length – 100cm Knee to calf length – 12-14cm
Hip round – 90 cm Calf round – 34cm
Knee round – 36cm Ankle round – 24cm

FORMULE :
CROTCH DEPTH = 1/3rd Hip Round + 2.5cm (ease) = 90/3 + 2.5 = 32.5cm

CONSTRUCTION STEPS : (PLAIN CHUDIDAR) :

(0-1) = Chudidar length = 100cm
(1-2) = 20cm (for gathers)
(0-3) = 1/4th of Hip Round + (5cm to 7cm) for gathers = 90/4 + 7 = 29.5cm
(0-4) = (3-5) = Crotch Depth = 32.5cm
(5-6) = 5 cm (for crotch shaping)
Join (3-6) with a smooth curve for crotch shaping
‘7’ is the midpoint of (1-4)
(7-8) = ½ of Knee Round = 36/2 = 18cm
(7-9) = Knee to calf length = 14cm
(9-10) = ½ of Calf round = 34/2 = 17cm
(2-11) = ½ OF Ankle round = 24/2 = 12cm
Join (6-8) with a smooth curve and (8-10-11) with a straight line
(0-a) = (3-b) = 5cm and Join (a-b)
(2-c) = (11-d) = 3cm and Join (c-d)

CUTTING POINTS :
CHUDIDAR : (a-b-6-8-10-11-d-c) ON-FOLD:(0-2) CUT : 2 pieces
 SIX GORED SAREE PETTICOAT
MEASUREMENT REQUIRED:

Belt Width -3cm

Full length -95cm(Waist to ankle)

Hip Round -90cm

CONSTRUCTION STEPS :
(0-1) =(Full length–belt width) + 6cm (Bottom fold) =(95 -3) + 6=98cm.
(0-2)=1/2 of Hip round =100/2=50cm.
Square across from ‘1’ and square down from ‘2’ and mark ‘3’.
(2-4)=(3-5)=6cm (On fold Belt width) +2cm (seam allowance) =8cm
Join (4-5) with straight line
(0-6)= 1/12th of Hip Round= 90/12 + 1cm(Seam allowance)=8.5cm.
(5-7)= 1/6th of Hip Round + 2cm(Seam allowance)= 90/6=15cm.
Join (6-7) with straight line.
(6-a)=(7-b)=1.5cm.
Shape hemline from ‘a’ and ‘b’ with smooth curves.
CUTTING POINTS:
CENTER PANEL:(0-6-b-1);ON-FOLD:(0-1);CUT:2PC’S
SIDE PANEL:(5-7-a-2);CUT:4PC’S
BELT:(2-4-3-5);CUT:1PC
 INDIAN KAMEEZ
MEASUREMENTS

Kameez length -90cm Waist length -38cm

Waist to hip -20cm Shoulder -34cm
Bust Round -84cm Hip Round -92cm
Waist Round -68cm Front neck depth -15cm
Back neck depth -8cm
CONSTRUCTION STEPS :
FRONT DRAFT :
(0-1) = Kameez length = 90cm
(0-2) = ½ of Shoulder = 34/2 = 17cm
(0-3) = 1/6th of Bust round + 1.5 cm (ease) = 84/6 + 1 = 15.5cm
(3-4) = 1/4th of Bust round + 2.5cm (ease) = 84/4 + 2.5 = 23.5cm
Square down from 2 onto (3-4) line and mark 5
(0-6) = Waist length = 38cm
(6-7) = 1/4th of Waist round + 1.5 cm (ease) = 68/4 + 1.5 = 18.5cm
Join (4-7) with a straight line
(6-8) = Waist to hip = 20cm
(8-9) = 1/4th of Hip round + 2cm (ease) = 92/4 + 2 = 25cm
Join (7-9) with a smooth curve for waist to hip curve
Square across from 1 and square down from 9 and mark 10
(9-9a) = 5cm (for slits marking)
Join (9a-10) with a straight line
(0-11) = Front neck width = 1/12th of Bust round + 1 cm (ease) = 84/12 + 1 = 8cm
(0-12) = Front neck depth = 15cm
Join (11-12) with a smooth curve for front neck line
(2-13) = Shoulder slope = 1.5 cm
Join (11-13) with a straight line
(5-14) = 1cm
Join (13-14) with a dotted line
(14-x) = 2cm
Join (13-x-4) with a smooth curve for front armhole curve
(10-15)=10cm(flare)
From 15 join gradually to waist to hip curve with a straight line.
(15-15a)=2.5cm
From 15a shape hem line.
CUTTING POINTS :
KAMEEZ WITH SLITS:
FRONT DRAFT : (12-11-13-x-4-7-9a-10-1) ON-FOLD:(0-1) CUT : 1Pc
A-LINE KAMEEZ:
FRONT DRAFT : (12-11-13-x-4-7-15a-1) ON-FOLD:(0-1) CUT : 1Pc

BACK DRAFT :
(0-1) = Kameez length = 90cm
(0-2) = ½ of Shoulder = 34/2 = 17cm
(0-3) = 1/6th of Bust round + 1.5 cm (ease) = 84/6 + 1.5 = 15.5cm
(3-4) = 1/4th of Bust round + 2.5cm (ease) = 84/4 + 2.5 = 23.5cm
Square down from 2 onto (3-4) line and mark 5
(0-6) = Waist length = 38cm
(6-7) = 1/4th of Waist round + 1.5 cm (ease) = 68/4 + 1.5 = 18.5cm
Join (4-7) with a straight line
(6-8) = Waist to hip = 20cm
(8-9) = 1/4th of Hip round + 2 cm (ease) = 92/4 + 2 = 25cm
Join (7-9) with a smooth curve for waist to hip curve
Square across from 1 and square down from 9 and mark 10
(9-9a) = 5cm (for slits marking)
Join (9a-10) with a straight line
(0-11) = Back neck width = 1/12th of Bust round + 1 cm (ease) = 84/12 + 1 = 8cm
(0-12) = Back neck depth = 8cm
Join (11-12) with a smooth curve for back neck line
(2-13) = Shoulder slope = 1.5cm
Join (11-13) with a straight line
14 is the midpoint of (5-13)
(5-x) = 2.5cm
Join (13-14-x-4) with a smooth curve for back armhole curve
(10-15)=10cm(flare)
From 15 join gradually to waist to hip curve with a straight line.
(15-15a)=2.5cm
From 15a shape hem line.
CUTTING POINTS :
KAMEEZ WITH SLITS:
BACK DRAFT : (12-11-13-14-x-4-7-9a-10-1) ON-FOLD:(0-1) CUT : 1Pc
A-LINE KAMEEZ:
BACK DRAFT : (12-11-13-14-x-4-7-15a-1) ON-FOLD:(0-1) CUT : 1Pc
 BELTED SAREE BLOUSE
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED:

Blouse Length -33cm Apex Level -22cm

Shoulder -34cm Front Neck Depth -15cm

Bust Round -84cm Back Neck Depth -24cm

Empire Round -68cm

Sleeve Length -15cm Sleeve Round -32cm

CONSTRUCTION STEPS:

BACK DRAFT:
(0-1) = Full Length =33cm

(0-2)= ½ Shoulder-4cm=34/2 – 4= 13cm

(0-3) = 1/6 Bust Round =84/6=14cm

(3-4)=1/4th Bust Round=84/4=21cm

(1-5) =1/4th Empire Round +2.5cm (dart)=68/4 + 2.5=19.5cms

Join ‘4’ and ‘5’ with a straight line.

Square down from ‘2’ to ‘6’

(0-7) = 1/12th Bust Round + 1cm=8cm

(0-8) =Back Neck depth=24cm or as desired and shape neckline curve

(2-9) = Shoulder Slope=0.5cms

10 is mid-point of 9 and 6

(6-11)=2.5cm and Shape armhole curve

(1-12)= 1/12th Bust Round + 1cm=8cm

(12-13)= 8 to 10cms

(12-a)=(12-b)=1.25cm and Join (13-a) and (13-b)

CUTTING POINTS :
BACK DRAFT:(8-7-9-10-11-4-5-1) ON-FOLD:(0-1) CUT :1pc
FRONT DRAFT:
(0-1) = Full Length+2cm =35cm

(0-2) = ½ Shoulder-4cm=34/2 – 4 = 13cm

(0-3) = 1/6 Bust Round=84/6 =14cm

(3-4)=1/4th Bust Round+1cm(ease) = 84/4 +1=22cm

(1-5)=1/4th Empire Round + 4cm(dart)=68/4 + 4=21cm

Join ‘4’ and ‘5’ .

Square down from ‘2’ to ‘6’.

(0-7)= 1/12th Bust Round +1cm=84/12 +1=8cm

(0-8)=Back Neck depth=15cm or as desired and shape neckline curve.

(2-9)= Shoulder Slope=0.5cm

(6-10)=1cm and Join 2 to 10 with a straight line.

(10-11)=2cm and join (9-11-4) with a curve

Belt width=(1-12) =1/12th Bust Round= 7cm

(5-13) = 1 to 12 minus 1.5cm= 7cm-1.5cm=5.5cms and join 12 and 13 using a curve.

(1-14) = 1/4th Empire Round=17cms and Square up from 14 to 15.

(0-16) = Apex Level=22cm

(16-17)=1/12 Bust Round+1cm=8cm

11 is deepest point of armhole, join (11-17) with a dotted line

(17-18)=3cm

(11-a),(11-b)=0.5cm, Join 18-a, 18-b

(17-19)= 2cm. Square down from 19 to 20

(20-c)=(20-d)=2cms. Draw the dart.

(17-21)=2cms

(16-e),(16-f)=1cm.Draw the dart.

Join (21-e), (21-f)

(4-22)= 10cm

Join (17-22) with a dotted line

(17-23)=3cm

22-g,22-h=1cm.Draw the dart.

CUTTING POINTS :
FRONT DRAFT: (8-7-9-4-13-12-8) CUT: 2pcs

BELT/YOKE: (1-12-15-14-1) CUT:4pcs

CONSTRUCTION STEPS:

SLEEVE DRAFT:
(0-1) = Sleeve Length= 15cms

(0-2) = 1/5th Bust Round+1.5cm =84/5 + 1.5=18.3cm

(2-3) =1/12th Bust round+1 cm=84/12 + 1= 8cm

(1-4)=1/2 sleeve round =16cm

Join 3-4 with a straight line

Divide 0 to 3 into 4 equal parts and mark it as ‘5’,’6’ and ‘7’ respectively.

Mark (5-a) =1.5cm, (6-b) =1.25cm, (7-c) ,(7-c’) =0.5cm

Join 0-a-b-c-3 with a smooth curve for back sleeve cap and 0-6-c’-3 with a smooth curve
for front sleeve cap

(1-x) =2cm for hem fold.

(x-y)=(1-4) + 1.5cm=17.5cm

CUTTING POINTS:

SLEEVE: (0-a-b-c-3-4-y-x) ON-FOLD:(0-1) CUT:2Pc’s

 PRINCESS CUT BLOUSE
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED:

Blouse Length -33cm Apex Level -22cm

Shoulder -34cm Front Neck Depth -15cm

Bust Round -84cm Back Neck Depth -24cm

Empire Round -68cm

Sleeve Length -15cm Sleeve Round -32cm

FRONT DRAFT:
(0-1)= Full Length + 2cm=35cms
(0-2)= ½ Shoulder-4cms = 34/2 -4=13cm
(0-3)= 1/6 Bust Round =84/6=14cm
(3-4)=1/4th Bust Round+ 1cm =84/4 + 1=22cm
(1-5)=1/4th Empire round + 5cm (dart)=68/4 + 4=22cm

Join 4 and 5
Square down from 2 to 6

(0-7)= 1/12th Bust Round +1cm=84/12 + 1=8cms

(0-8)=Front Neck depth=15cm and Shape neckline curve
(2-9)= Shoulder Slope=0.5cms
(6-10)=1cm and Join 2 to 10 with a straight line
(10-11)=2cms and Join (9-11-4) with a smooth curve .
(1-12) = 2cm, join (1-12) with a smooth curve
(0-13) = Apex level= 22cm
(13-14) = 1/12th of Bust+1cm=84/12 + 1= 8cm
Square down from 14 and mark 15 on to (12-5) curve
(15-a) =(15-b) = 2.5cm Join (a-14-b)

Join (11-14) with a smooth curve

(11-16) = 7cm on (11-14) line
(11-c) = → (11-d) = 0.5cm
Join (c-16) with smooth curve (center panel style line)

Join (d-16) with smooth curve (Side panel style line)

CUTTING POINTS:

CENTER FRONT PANEL: (8-7-9-c-16-14-a-12) ON-FOLD :(8-12) CUT:1pc

SIDE PANEL: (d-16-14-b-5-4-d) CUT:2pc’s

NOTE: BACK DRAFT AND SLEEVE DRAFT IS SAME AS BELTED

SAREE BLOUSE
 TAILORED SKIRT BLOCK
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED:

Skirt length -58cm

Waist to hip -20.3cm

Waist Round -64cm

Hip Round -90cm

Waist band -3cm

CONSTRUCTION STEPS:
SKIRT:
Square down and square across from 1
(1-2)= skirt length – Belt Width = 58-3 = 55cm
(1-3)= ½ Hip Round +1.5cm ease= 90/2+1.5cm = 46.5cm
Square down from 3 and square across from 2, mark ‘4’
(1-5) = Waist to hip – Belt width= 20.3cm-3cm = 17.3cm
Square across from 5 to 6
(5-7) = 1/4th Hip Round+1.5cm = 90/4+1.5cm = 24cm
Square down from 7 to 8
(1-9) = ¼ Waist + 4cm(darts) +0.25cm(ease) =20.25cms
(9-10)= 1cm; join 10 to 1 with a slight curve.

Divide line (1-10) into 3 equal parts. Marks 11 and 12

Using line (1-10) square down from 11 and 12 with a dotted line.
(11-13)= 13cm and 12-14 = 12cm
(11-a)= (11-b) = 1cm and (12-c) = (12-d)= 1cm
Join (10-7) with a straight dotted line.
Shape waistline with a slight curve and side seam curving outwards 0.5cm
(3-15)= ¼ waist + 2cm for darts +0.25cm (ease)=18.25cm
(15-16) = 1cm; join 3-16 with a slight curve
(16-17) = 1/3 of (3-16)
Using line (3-16) square down from 17 with a dotted line.
(17-18) = 10cm
(17-e)=(17-f ) = 1cm, join e and f to 18
Shape waistline curve and side seam curving outwards 0.5cm

CUTTING POINTS:
BACK: (1-10-7-8-2) ; ON-FOLD:(1-2); CUT :1PC
FRONT: (3-16-8-4) ; ON FOLD:(3-4); CUT :1PC

WAIST BAND:
(0-1) = Band width = 3cm
(0-2) = ½ Waist Round +0.5cm = 64/2 +0.5cm = 32.5cm
(2-a) = (3-b) = 3cm for buttons
CUTTING POINTS:
WAIST BAND: (0-a-B-1) ; ON-FOLD:(1-2); CUT :2PC
 SKIRT VARIATIONS
A-LINE SKIRT:
CONSTRUCTION STEPS:

BACK:

Trace tailored skirt block back draft.

Label waist line as 1a,2a and hem line as 3a,4a.

(4a - 5a)=5cm.

Divide (1a – 2a) line into three equal parts and label ‘a’ and ‘b’.

Reduce 2cm waist dart into 1cm darts at ‘a’ and ‘b’.

Draw vertical lines to hem line from the base of the darts at ‘a’ and ‘b’.

‘c’ is the midpoint of ‘a’ and ‘b’ and draw a new dart of width 2cm at point ‘c’ of length
12cm.

Cut out the pattern and cut up vertical lines at ‘a’ and ‘b’ and close the darts.

Trace the pattern with equal flare at hemline.

CUTTING POINTS

BACK DRAFT :(1a-2a-5a-3a); ON-FOLD: (1a-3a); CUT:1 Piece

CONSTRUCTION STEPS:

FRONT:

Trace tailored skirt block front draft.

Label waist line as 1,2 and hem line as 3,4.

(4-5)=5cm.

Divide (1 – 2) line into three equal parts and label ‘a’ and ‘b’.

Reduce the 2cm waist dart into 1cm dart at ‘b’.

Construct a new dart of 1cm at ‘a’.

Draw vertical lines to hem line from the base of the darts at ‘a’ and ‘b’.
Cut out the pattern and cut up vertical lines and close the darts.

Trace the pattern with equal flare at hemline.

CUTTING POINTS

FRONT DRAFT :(1-2-5-3); ON-FOLD: (1-3);CUT:1 Piece

A-LINE GORED SKIRT

CONSTRUCTION STEPS:

BACK:

Trace A-Line skirt back pattern. Draw in hipline and original side seam.

Number it as (1a-2a) waistline, (3a-4a) hipline, (5a-6a) hemline.

(1a-7a)= 1/3rd of (1a-2a);

(3a-8a)= 1/3rd of (3a-4a);

(5a-9a)= 1/3rd of (5a-6a)

Join 7a,8a and 9a

Shift the back dart on to point ‘7a’.

Cut the panel line along with dart.

CONSTRUCTION STEPS:

FRONT:

Trace A-Line skirt front pattern. Draw in hipline and original side seam.

Number it as (1-2) waistline, (3-4) hipline, (5-6) hemline.

(1-7)= 1/3rd of (1-2);

(3-8)= 1/3rd of (3-4);

(5-9)→= 1/3rd of (5-6)

Join (7,8,9) with a straight line.

Cut the panel line along with dart

TULIP SKIRT
CONSTRUCTION STEPS:
FRONT:

Trace tailored skirt block front in open draft.

Number (0-1) as center line

(0-2)=3/4th of (0-1) = 41.25cm

(0-3)= 8-10cm

Join new marked points 3,2,4 with hemline to get a tulip shape. Remaining portion gets
discarded. Shade it.

Cut two pieces of draft

Trace tailored skirt block for back draft

YOKE SKIRT
Trace tailored skirt block front.

Number (0-1) as center line.

(0-2)=10cm

Square across from ‘2’ on either sides.

(2-3)← = 10cm for gathers (as desired)

Square down from ‘3’ , square across from ‘1’ mark ‘4’.

Label ‘5’, ‘6’ and ‘7’ as shown along the side seams

Trace tailored skirt block for back draft

CIRCULAR SKIRT
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED:

Waist round=64cm

Skirt Length=55cm

CONSTRUCTION STEPS:

Skirt radius = W.R/6.28 = 64/6.28 = 10cm

(0-1)=(0-2)=Skirt radius – waist band width = 10-3 = 7cm

Join (1-2) with a smooth curve

(1-3)=(2-4)=Skirt length – Waist band width = 58-3 = 55cm

Square down from 4 and square across from 3 and mark ‘5’

Take the mid points of (3-5) and (4-5) and join it to ‘0’

Join (0-5) with a dotted line

Join (3-4) with a smooth curve for hem line

CUTTING POINTS:

SKIRT:(1-2-4-3); ONFOLD:(2-4);(1-3); CUT : 1 Pc

 CLOSE FITTED BODICE BLOCK
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED:

Bust round : 84cm

Shoulder :12cm
Armscye depth : 20.6cm
Nape to waist : 40.6cm
Waist to hip : 20.3cm
Back width : 33.4cm
Chest : 31.2cm
Dart width : 6.4cm
Neck size : 36cm

CONSTRUCTION STEPS:
BACK
(0-1)= 1.5cm
(1-2)= Armscye depth + 0.5cm = 20.6 + 0.5 = 21.1cm
(2-3)= ½ of Bust Round + 4cm (ease) = 84/2 + 4 = 46cm
Square across from ‘0’ and square up from ‘3’ and mark ‘4’
(1-5)= Nape to waist = 40.6cm
Square across from ‘5’ and square down from ‘3’ and mark ‘6’.
(5-7) = Waist to hip = 20.3cm
Square across from ‘7’ and square down from ‘6’ and mark ‘8’.
(0-9)= 1/5th Neck size – 0.2cm= 7.2 - 0.2 = 7cm
Join (1-9) with a smooth curve for back neck line
(1-10) = Shoulder slope= 1/5th Armscye depth - 0.7cm= 4.12 – 0.7 = 3.4cm
Square across from ‘10’ with a dotted line
(9-11)= Shoulder + 1cm (dart)= 12 + 1 = 13cm
12 is the midpoint of (9-11)
(12-13)= 5cm
(13-13a)= 1cm
Mark 0.5cm on either sides of ‘12’
Draw mid shoulder dart at ‘12’
(2-14)= ½ of Back Width + 0.5cm = 33.4/2 + 0.5cm = 17.2cm
Square up from 14 to 15
16 is the midpoint of (14-15)
17 is the midpoint of (2-14) and square down from 17 and mark 18 and 19 respectively.
FRONT
(4-20)= 1/5th of Neck size – 0.7cm= 36/5 – 0.7 = 6.5cm
(4-21)= 1/5th Neck size – 0.2cm= 36/5 - 0.2cm = 7cm
Join (20-21) with a smooth curve for front neck line
(3-22)= ½ of Chest + ½ of Dart Width = 31.2/2 + 6.4/2 = 18.8cm
23 is the midpoint of (3-22)
Square down from 23 and mark 24 and 25 respectively.
(23-26)= 2.5cm
(20-27)= Dart Width = 6.4cm
(11-28)= 1 to 1.5cm
(28-29)= 10cm (dotted line)
(27-30)= Shoulder = 12 cm
(22-31)= 1/3rd of (3-21) Measurement = 14.1/3 = 4.5cm
32 is the midpoint of (14-22)
Square down from 32 and mark 33 and 34 respectively.
(14-x)= 2.5cm
(22-y)= 2cm
Join (11-16-x-32-y-31-30) with a smooth curve for front and back armhole curves
CUTTING POINTS :
 FRONT DRAFT : (1-9-11-16-x-32-33-34-7);(1-7)=On-fold ; Cut:1 Pc
 BACK DRAFT : (21-20-27-30-31-y-32-33-34-8); (21-8)=On-fold ; Cut:1 Pc
 SLEEVELESS WAIST BLOCK
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED:

Waist Round=68cm

CONSTRUCTION STEPS:
Label all the numbers from bodice block as it is.

(11-11a)=(30-30a)=1cm

(16-16a)=(31-31a)=0.5cm

(32-32a)=1cm

Join 11a,16a,32a,31a,30a for sleeveless armhole shaping

(6-6a)=1cm

Join (6a-5) with a straight line

(17-17a)=2.5cm

Mark a dart of 2.5cm at 18 i.e, (18-a)=(18-b)=1.25cm

(26-26a)=2.5cm

Mark a dart of 3.5cm at 24 i.e, (24-c)=(24-d)=1.75cm

Waist shaping at back=(5-5b)=W.R/4 + 2.5cm + 1cm = 68/4 + 2.5cm + 1cm=20.5cm

Waist shaping at back=(6a-6b)=W.R/4+3.5cm + 1cm = 68/4 + 2.5cm + 1cm=21.5cm

(0-0a)=(5-5a)=5cm

CUTTING POINTS:-

 BACK:(0a-1-10-11a-16a-32a-5b-5a-0a);CUT:2PC’S

 FRONT:(21-20-27-30a-31a-32a-6b-6a);ON-FOLD:(21-6a);CUT:1PC
 DRESS BLOCK
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED(SIZE:10)
Dress length - 90cm or as desired
Waist Round - 68cm
Hip round - 90cm
CONSTRUCTION STEPS
BACK
Trace back draft of close fitted bodice block
Label as (0,0a,1,2,3,3a,4,5)
Label point ‘6’ on back Dart guide line and Mark (6-6a)=2.5cm
Label point ‘7’ on waist line and Mark (7-7a)=(7-7b) =1.25cm (Dart intake)
(7-8) =13cm; Join (6a-7a-8-7b-6a)
Waist shaping=(4-4a)=1/4thwaist round+2.5cm(dart)+1cm(ease)=68/4+3.5=20.5cm

Hip Shaping=(5-5a)=1/4th hip round + 1.5cm(ease)=90/4+1.5=24cm

(0-9)=Dress block length=90cm or length as desired
Square down from 5a and across from ‘9’, mark ‘9a’

CUTTING POINTS:
BACK DRAFT: (0a-1-2-3a-4a-5a-9a-9);
ON-FOLD: (0-9); CUT:1 piece
FRONT
Trace front draft of close fitted bodice block

label as shown in figure(0,0a,1,1a,2,3,3a,4,5)

Label point ‘6’on dart guide line and Mark (6-6a)=2.5cm
Label point ‘7’on waist line and mark (7-7a)=(7-7b) =1.75cm (Dart intake)
(7-8) =13cm; Join (6a-7a-8-7b-6a)
Waist shaping=(4-4a)←=1/4th waist round + 3.5cm dart + 1cm=68/4+4.5cm=21.5cm
Hip Shaping=(5-5a)←=1/4th hip round + 1.5cm(ease)=24cm
(0-9)↓=Dress block length=90cm or as desired
Square down from 5a and across from ‘9’, mark ‘9a’
CUTTING POINTS:
FRONT DRAFT: (0a-1-1a-2-3a-4a-5a-9a-9);
ON-FOLD: (0-6); CUT:1piece

FITTED DRESS ADAPTATION

CONSTRUCTION STEPS
BACK
Trace one piece dress block back draft, label
(2-2a) = 1cm
Eliminate shoulder dart and reshape armhole curve
(5a-10)=5 – 8cm(For side slits) and Join (9a-10) with a straight line.
Note: Back neck curve could be changed as desired.
CUTTING POINTS:
BACK:(0a-1-2a-3a-4a-10-9a-9);
ON-FOLD:(0-9);CUT:1pc
FRONT
Trace one piece dress block front draft, label.
(3a-10) = 6 to 8cm and join (6-10) for dart manipulation.
(5a-11)=5cm
Slash side dart along (10-6) line and close bust dart (1a - 1).
New dart is formed at side seam as shown.
Mark the new dart 2.5cm away from apex point.
Note: Front neck curve could be changed as desired.
CUTTING POINTS:
FRONT:(0a-1-1a-2-3a-4a-11-9a);
ON-FOLD:(0-9); CUT:1pc
 SHOULDER STYLELINE KURTI
CONSTRUCTION STEPS
BACK
Trace one piece dress block back draft, label
Mark the back shoulder dart as ‘10’ and join to point ‘6a’.
Drop panel lines from ‘8’ and mark ‘11’.
(9a-12)→=5-7cm(flare) and join to mid of waist to hip curve
(12-12a)↑=2.5cm and join (12a-9) with smooth curve.
Cut along the style line and add 3.5cm flare
CUTTING POINTS:
CENTRE PANEL:(0a-1-1a-6a-7a-8-11-9); ON-FOLD:(0-9); CUT: 1 PC
SIDE PANEL:(2a-6a-7b-8-11-12a-4a-3a-2-2a); CUT: 2 Pieces
FRONT
Trace one piece dress block front draft
Mark midpoint of shoulder as ‘10’ and join to point ‘6’.
Drop panel lines from ‘8’ and mark ‘11’.
(9a-12)←=5cm(flare) and join to mid of waist to hip curve
(12-12a)↑=2.5cm and join (12a-9) with smooth curve.
Cut along the style line and add 3.5cm flare
CUTTING POINTS:
CENTRE PANEL:(0a-1-1a-10-6-7b-8-11-9); ON-FOLD:(0-9); CUT: 1 PC
SIDE PANEL:(10-6-7a-8-11-12a-4a-3a-2-10); CUT: 2 Pieces

SHOULDER STYLELINE KURTI

CONSTRUCTION STEPS
BACK
Trace one piece dress block back draft,
(2-2a) = 1cm Eliminate shoulder dart and reshape armhole curve
Mark midpoint of armhole as ‘10’ and draw armhole princess style line from (10-6a)
Drop panel lines from ‘8’ and mark ‘11’.
(9a-12)=5-7cm(for flare) and join to mid of waist to hip curve.
(12-12a)=2.5cm and join (12a-9) with smooth curve.
Cut along the style line and add 3.5cm flare
CUTTING POINTS:
CENTRE PANEL:(0a-1-2a-10-6a-7a-8-11-9);ON-FOLD:(0-8); CUT:1 Piece
SIDE PANEL:(10-6a-7b-8-11-12a-4a-3-10);CUT:2 Piece’s

FRONT
Trace one piece dress block front draft
Mark midpoint of armhole as ‘10’ and draw armhole princess style line from (10-6).
Drop panel lines from ‘8’ and mark ‘11’.
(8a-12)=5-7cm(for flare) and join to mid of waist to hip curve.
(12-12a)=2.5cm and join (12a-8) with smooth curve.
Put the scissors symbol as shown.
Cut along the style line and add 3.5cm flare
CUTTING POINTS:
CENTRE PANEL:(0a-1-1a-2-10-6-7b-8-11-9);ON-FOLD:(0-8); CUT:1 Piece
SIDE PANEL:(10-6-7a-8-11-12a-4a-3-10);CUT:2 Pieces
 BASIC SLEEVE
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED:

Sleeve length=58cm

Sleeve round=22cm

Armhole round=40cm

Bust round=84cm

CONSTRUCTION STEPS:

(0-1)=sleeve length=58cm

(0-2)=1/2 of armhole round-2cm=18cm

(2-3)=1/12th of bust round + 1cm(ease)=84/12 + 1= 8cm.

(1-4)=1/2 of sleeve round =22/2=11cm

Join (0-3) and (3-4) with straight lines.

Divide (0-3) into four equal divisions.

Label 5,6,7

(5-a) =1.5cm;(6-b)=1.25cm;(7-c) =0.5cm;(7-c’) =0.5cm

Join (0-a-b-c-3) for back armhole curve; join (0-6-c’-3) for front armhole curve.

CUTTING POINTS:

SLEEVE:(0-a-b-c-3-4-1); ON-FOLD:(0-1); CUT:2PC’s

SLEEVE LENGTHS
CONSTRUCTION STEPS:

Trace one piece sleeve block in open draft.

Mark points ‘A’ and ‘B’ for biceps line

Label centre on-fold line as ‘0’ and ‘1’.

‘2’ is the mid point of (0-1) and square across on either sides.

(0-3) =short sleeves length=18cm

Square across from ‘3’ on either sides.

‘4’ is the mid point of (1-2) and square across on either sides

SHORT SLEEVE
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED:

Sleeve length=18cm

CONSTRUCTION STEPS

Trace one-piece sleeve block in open draft .

Label centre on-fold line as ‘0’ and ‘1’.

(0-2)=Short sleeve length=18cm

Square across from ‘2’ on either sides and label ‘3’ and ‘4’.

(3-5)=(4-6)=2cm

Join (A-5) and (B-6) with straight lines.

CUTTING POINTS:

SHORT SLEEVE:(A-0-B-6-5-A); CUT:2PC’s

CAP SLEEVE
Trace short sleeves draft.

Label centre on-fold as ‘0’ and ‘1’.

(0-2)=3/4th of (0-1) measurement=3/4*18=13.5cm

(0-3)=(0-4=5cm(on either sides)

Label hemline as ‘5’ and ‘6’.

Join (4-2-6) with smooth curve.

Join (3-2-6) with smooth curve.

CUTTING POINTS:-

BACK:- (A-0-4-2-5-A); CUT:2PC’S

FRONT:- (3-0-B-6-2-3) ; CUT:2PC’S

 PUFF SLEEVE
CONSTRUCTION STEPS

Trace short sleeves in on-fold.

Label on-fold line as ‘0’ and ‘1’ and side seam as ‘A’ and ‘B’.

(0-2) =(1-3)=8cm(for gathers)

Join (2-3) with a straight line.

(2-4)=(3-5)=1.5cm

Join(A-4) and (B-5) with smooth curves for armhole shaping and hem line shaping.

CUTTING POINTS:-

PUFF SLEEVES :-(4-A-B-5); ON-FOLD:(4-5); CUT:2PC’S

FLARED SLEEVE
CONSTRUCTION STEPS
Trace 3/4th sleeve in open draft.
Divide the biceps line into 6 equal parts, label as 1,2,3,4 and 5.
Square up and down from 1,2,3,4 and 5.
Slash along the lines and spread by giving 4cm gap
 COLLARS
CHINESE COLLAR
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED:

Collar width-3cm

Neck size-36cm

CONSTRUCTION STEPS:

(0-1) =Collar width=3cm.

(0-2)=1/2 of neck size=18cm.Square down from 2 and across from 1 i.e, point 3.

(3-4)=1cm.

(2-5)=1.5cm.

(5-6)=1cm.

7 is the midpoint of (0-2) and 8 is the midpoint of (1-3).

Join 7 and 6 with a slight curve.

Join 6 and 4 with a straight line.

Join 8 and 4 with a slight curve.

CUTTING POINTS:-

(0-7-6-4-8-1); ON-FOLD:(0-1); CUT:2PC’S

CONVERTIBLE COLLAR
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED:

Collar width-7cm

Neck size-36cm

CONSTRUCTION STEPS:

(0-1)=Collar width=7cm.

(0-2)=1/2 of neck size=18cm.Square down from 2 and across from 1 i.e, point 3.
(3-4)=0.5cm.

(1-5)=3/4th of (1-3)=13.5cm.

(2-6)=1.5cm

(0-7)=3/4th of(0-2)=13.5cm.

(6-8)=1cm.

Join 7 and 8 with a slight curve.

Join 8 and 4 with a straight line.

Join 5 and 4 with a slight curve.

CUTTING POINTS:-

(0-7-8-4-5-1); ON-FOLD:(0-1); CUT:2PC’S

PETER-PAN COLLAR
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED:

Collar width-5cm

CONSTRUCTION STEPS:-
Trace close fitted bodice till waist lin.

Shift front bust dart to side dart and trace front bodice block.

Place back draft on front bodice matching at shoulder neck point and with overlap of
1.5cm at lowest shoulder point and label

(0-4)=(1-5)=(2-6)=Collar width=5cm.

Join 4,5,6 with a smooth curve.

(4-7)= 4cm

(4-8)=2.5cm. Join (0-8-7) with a smooth curve.

CUTTING POINTS:-
(2-1-0-8-7-5-6); ON-FOLD:(2-6); CUT:2PC’S
 CHILD BODICE BLOCK (GIRLS)
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED(AGE:4-5 YEARS):

Chest – 59 cm

Across back – 24.4 cm

Neck Size – 28 cm

Shoulder – 8.2 cm

Armscye Depth – 14.4 cm

Back neck to waist – 26.6 cm

CONSTRUCTION STEPS:

(0-1)= Neck to waist = 26.6 cm

(0-2)= 1/2 of Chest + 3.5 cm (Ease) = 59cm /2 + 3.5 cm = 33 cm. Square across from 1 and
down from 2, label 3.

Sizes 104 – 116cm Height plus 4.5cm; 122-152 cm Height plus 5 cm

(0-4)=1.25cm

(0-5)= Armscye depth + 0.5cm to 1 cm = 14.4 cm + 0.5 cm = 14.9 cm; square across from
5, mark 6.

(4-7)= ½ measurement of (4-5) = 13.6 cm/2 = 6.8 cm.(4-8)↓=1/4thArmscye depth - 2 cm

=14.4 cm/4 – 2 cm = 1.6 cm.

(0-9)= 1/5th Neck size - 0.3 cm = 28cm/5 + 0.3 cm = 5.9 cm

(5-10)=1/2 of Across back + 0.5 cm = 24.4cm/2 +0.5 cm = 12.7cm.

Square up and mark point 11.

(9-12)=Shoulder=8.2 cm

(2-13)= 1/5th of Neck size = 28cm/5 = 5.6 cm

(2-14) = 1/5th of Neck size = 28cm/5 = 5.6 cm

Join (13-14) with curve shape

(12-15)↓= 0.5 cm

(Sizes 104 – 116 cm Height 0.5 cm; 122-152 cm Height 0.6 cm)
Extend horizontally with a dotted line till front neck

(13-16)= Shoulder= 8.2 cm;

(6-17)= The measurement of (5-10) minus 0.5 cm = 12.7cm – 0.5 cm =12.2 cm

(17-18)= 1/4th measurement of (4-5)= 13.6 cm/4 = 3.4cm

(17-19)= ½ of measurement of (10-17) plus 0.5 cm = 4.1 cm + 0.5cm= 4.6 cm

Square down from 19 , mark 20

(10-21)= 2 cm

(Sizes 104 – 116 cm Height 2 cm;122-152 cm Height 2.25 cm)

(17-22)= 1.75 cm

(Sizes 104 – 116 cm Height 1.75cm;122-152 cm Height 2 cm)

Draw in the armscye shape to touch points 12, 11, 21, 19, 22, 18 and 16 with a neat
curve for armscye shape

(3-23)= 1 cm

(Sizes 104 – 116 cm Height 1cm;122-152 cm Height 0.5 cm)

Join (1-23) with a straight line.

Cutting points :

BACK DRAFT: (4-9-12-11-21-19-20-1); ON-FOLD:(0-1); CUT:1PC

FRONT DRAFT:(14-13-16-18-22-19-20-23); ON-FOLD:(2-23);CUT:1PC

A-LINE CUT FROCK

MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED:
Frock length=50cm or as desired

BACK DRAFT

Trace Child’s bodice block back draft.

(0a-4a)↓=50cm(length of the frock)

Square across from ‘4a’ and square down from ‘3a’ and mark point ‘5a’.
(5a-6a)→= 8 -10 cm (for flare).

Join (3a-6a) with a straight line.

(6a-7a)↑= 2 cm.

Join (4a-7a) with a smooth curve for hem line.

CUTTING POINTS:

BACK DRAFT:(1-1a-2a-3a-7a-4a);ON-FOLD:(0a-4a); CUT:1Pc

FRONT DRAFT

Trace Child’s bodice block front draft.

(0-4)=50cm(length of the frock)

Square across from ‘4’ and square down from ‘3’ and mark point ‘5’.

(5-6)= 8 -10 cm (for flare).

Join (3-6) with a straight line.

(6-7)= 2 cm.

Join (4-7) with a smooth curve for hem line.

CUTTING POINTS:

BACK DRAFT:(1-1a-2a-3a-7a-4a);ON-FOLD:(0a-4a); CUT:1Pc

STRAIGHT CUT YOKE FROCK

MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED:
Frock length=50cm or as desired

FRONT DRAFT

Trace A-Line frock front draft.

Number it as shown

Mark the chest line as 3 and 3a.

(3a-8)↑= 2.5cm.
Square across from ‘8’ to the armhole and mark it as ‘9’.

(8-10)→=(4-11)→=10 cm for gathers(or as desired)

Join 10 and 11 with a straight line.

CUTTING POINTS:

YOKE:(0a-1-2-9-8);on-fold:(0-8);cut:2pc’s

Front draft:(10-8-9-3-7-4-11); On-fold:(10-11);cut:1pc

BACK DRAFT: Trace A-line frock back draft

 WOMEN’S SHIRT BLOCK
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED:-
Shirt length -65cm Waist round -64cm
Armsyce depth -20.6cm Hip round -90cm
Nape to waist -40.6cm Back width -33.4cm
Waist to hip -20.3cm Chest -31.2
Shoulder -12cm Neck Size -36cm
Bust Round -84cm Sleeve Length -58cm
CONSTRUCTIONS STEPS:-

Draw a perpendicular line and mark it as 0.

(0-1)=Armscye depth + 1cm(1-1.5 cm as ease desired)=21.6cm
(0-3)=Shirt Length=65cm
(0-2)=Neck to waist/nape to waist, square across
(1-4)=1/2 of bust round + 6cm(6-7 cm as ease desired)=48cm.
Square down from 4 and across from 3 i.e, point 5
(0-6)=3.5cm (Back neck depth)
Square across from 6 and above from 4 i.e, point 7
(6-8)=1/5th of neck size + 0.2cm=7.4cm,square down to 9
(0-10)=1/3rdof(0-9)=2.46cm.Shape the neck using French curve.
(6-11)=1/5th of armscye depth-0.5cm=3.62cm.
(0-12)=1/5th of (0-1) + 1.5cm=5.32,Square across half way the block.
(1-13)=1/2 back width + 1cm(ease)=17.7cm.Square upto 14 and 15.
(15-16)=1cm.Join 8 and 16
(14-17) =1/2(12-14) minus 1.5cm.
(14-18)=0.5cm.Join 17-18 with a curve
(7-19)=5cm.Square across
(19-20)=1/5thof neck size-0.6cm=6.6cm.
(19-21) =1/5th of neck size – 1.6cm=5.6cm.shape neck 20-21 with a smooth curve and
(19-22)=(6-11)
(20-23) =same as (8-16) .Draw a line from 20 to touch the line from 22 i.e, shoulder.
(21-24)=1/2 of (4-21)+1cm,square across from 24.
(4-25)=(1-13) .Square up from 25 to 26.
27 is the midpoint of 13 & 25.
Square down from 27 to the points 28 & 29.
(13-a)=2.75cm
(25-b)=2.25cm
Draw armscye (16-14-18-a-27-b-26-23)
(21-30)=1.5cm(for button stand).Square down from 31 and across from 5.
(30 – 31)=3.5cm(for facing).Square down from 31 and across from 5 and also shape
neckline.
Mark dart at front and back for fitting and shape the waist as desired (i.e, ¼ waist round
+ ease)

SLEEVE:
CONSTRUCTION STEPS:
Square down from 0.
(0-1)=1/4thArmscye measurement=11.5cm. Square Across.
(0-2)=Sleeve length–cuff depth(3cm)+2cm(ease) = 57cm. Square across.
3 is the midpoint of (1-2).Square across.
(0-4) =1/2 armscye measurement. Square down from 4 to 5.
(0-6)=1/2 armscye measurement. Square down from 6 to 7.
Divide the line (0-4) into four sections, mark points 8,9,10.
Divide the line (0-6) into four sections, mark points 11,12,13.
(9-x)=1cm;(10-y)=1.75cm; Shape armscye curve - (4-8-x-y-0).
(11-z) =1cm;(13-z’)=1cm;Shape armscye curve – (0-z-12-z’-6).
(5-14)=7cm.Join 4-14 with a straight line.
(7-15)=7cm.Join 6-15 with a straight line.
Mark points 16 and 17 on the line at 3.
(14-18)=1cm;(15-19)=1cm; Join (16-18) and(17-18) with a curve.
20 is the midpoint of (2-18).Square up to 21.
(20-22)=13cm

COLLAR:
(0-1)=Collar depth =6cm. Square across from 0 and 1
(1-2)= Band width = 3cm; square across
(0-3)=1/2 of neck measurement=18cm.
Square down from 3 and label ‘4’ and ‘5’.
(4-6), (5-7)=2.5cm to 3cm.
Join 6 and 7 with a straight line
(7-8)= 0.5cm
(5-9)= 5cm; (9-10)= 0.5cm;
Join 8 to 10 smooth curve and blend into ‘2’ line
(6-11) = 0.5cm; (11-12)=0.25cm
(4-13)= 0.5cm.
Join (8 -12) with a straight line.
Join (12 -13) with a smooth curve and from 13 draw smooth upward curve that blends
into ‘4’ line.
(3-14) →= 1.5cm to 2cm; Join 13 and 14 with straight line.
(14-15) = 2.5cm
Draw smooth inward curve from ‘12’ that blends into ‘0’ line.
Cutting Points:
Band: (1-13-12-8-5-10-2);(1-2) is on fold
Collar: (0-15-14-4-1);(0-1) is on fold

CUFF:
(0-1) =Cuff depth=7cm.

(0-2)=(1-3)=Cuff length + 2cm=20cm.

Mark button and button hole.

Draw curves at lower edge.

 TROUSER BLOCK
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED:
Waist -68cm
Hips -90cm
Waist to hip -20.6cm
Body rise -27.3cm
Waist to floor -103cm
Trouser bottom width -18cm
Waist band -3cm
CONSTRUCTION STEPS:

FRONT DRAFT:

(0-1)= body rise-waist band=27.3 – 3=24.3cm; square across

(0-2)= waist to hip – waist band=20.6 – 3=17.6cm; square across
(0-3)= waist to floor- waist band=103-3=100cm; square across
(1-4) =1/2(1-3)-5cm= 32.35cm,square across.

(1-5) =1/12th hip measurement+0.5cm=90/12 + 0.5=8cm; square up to 6 and 7

(6-8) = 1/4th hip measurement = 90/4=22.5cm

(5-9)= 1/16th Hip measurement =5.6cm

(7-10) =1.5cm

Mark guide point from 5 diagonally

(Sizes 6-14 3cm from point (5-a)

Sizes 16-24 3.25cm from point (5-a))

Join 10-6; join 6-9 with a curve touching a guide point from 5

(10-11) = 1/4th waist+2.25cm = 17 + 2.25 = 19.25cm

Construct a dart on the line from point 0 of length 7cm, width 2cm.

(3-12) =1/2 of trouser bottom width-0.5cm = 8.5cm

(4-13) = The measurement of (3-12)+1.5cm=10cm

(Sizes 16-20 add 1.7cm, sizes 22-24 add 2cm)

Draw inside leg seam 9,15,14; curve 9-15 inwards 0.75cm

CUTTING POINTS:

FRONT:(9-6-10-11-8-13-12-14-15-9); CUT:2Pc’s

BACK DRAFT:

(5-16) = 1/4th of (1-5)=2cm;

Square up to 17 on the hipline, 18 on the waistline

(16-19) = ½ of (16-18) +0.5cm

(18-20) = 1.5 to 2cm

(20-21) = 1.5 to 2cm

(21-22) = 1/4th waist+4.25cm=21.25cm; join 21-22 to touch the horizontal line from 0.

(9-23) = ½ of (5-9)-0.5cm=2.3cm

(23-24) = 0.5cm

Join 21-19 and 19-24 with a curve touching a guide point from 16

(Sizes 6 to 14 4.5cm from 16-b

Sizes 16 to 24 4.75cm from 16-b)

(17-25) = 1/4th Hip measurement+1.5cm =90/4 + 1.5=24cm

(12-26)=1cm

(13-27)=1.5cm

Draw inside seam through points 22,25,27,26; curve hipline 0.5cm outwards

Curve (25-27) 0.5cm inwards

(14-28) = 1cm

(15-29) = 1.5cm

Draw inside leg seam 24, 29, 28, curve 24-29 inwards 1cm

Divide the line 21-22 into three parts. Mark points 30 and 31.

Using the line 21-22 square down from 30 and 31.

Construct darts on these lines 2cm wide, length 10cm from point 30 and 8cm from point
31.

CUTTING POINTS:

BACK:(24-b-19-20-21-22-25-27-26-28-29-24);CUT:2PC’S

PALAZZO
CONSTRUCTION STEPS :

FRONT DRAFT:

Trace trouser front draft of trouser, label.

(12-12a)=15 to 20 cm (for flare)

(13-13a)=8 to 10cm

(14-14a)=15 to 20cm (for flare)

(15-15a)=8 to 10cm

Join (10-6-a-9) with a smooth curve for crotch shaping.

Join (9-15a-14a) for inside leg seam i.e,Join (9a-15a) curve by taking 0.5cm,inwards and
(15a-14a) is a straight line.

Join (8- 13a-12b) for side seam i.e. Join (8-13a) curve by taking 0.5cm inwards and (13a-
12a) with a straight line.

(12b-x)=2cm

Join (3-x) with a smooth curve for hemline shaping.

(14a-y)=2cm

Join (y-3) with a smooth curve for hem line shaping

CUTTING POINTS:

FRONT :(10-11-8-13a-x-3-y-15a-9-a-6-10); CUT:2 Pieces

BACK DRAFT:

Trace back draft of trouser, label.

(26-26a)=15 to 20 cm (for flare)

(27-27a)=6 to 8cm
(28-28a)=15 to 20cm (for flare)

(29-29a)=6cm to 8cm

Join (24-29a-28a) for inside leg seam i.e, Join (24a-29a) curve by taking 0.5cm inwards
and (29a-28a) is a straight line.

Join (25-27a-26a) for side seam i.e, Join (25-27a) curve by taking 0.5cm inwards and
(27a-26a) is a straight line.

(26a-x)=2cm.

Join (x-3) with a smooth curve for hemline shaping.

(28a-y)=2cm

Join (y-3) with a smooth curve for hem line shaping

CUTTING POINTS:

BACK: (21-22-25-27a-x-3-y-29a-24-y); CUT: 2 Pieces

 COST SHEET
1) MATERIAL COST :

FABRIC TYPE FABRIC QUANTITY RATE (per COST

WIDTH meter) (inRs.)

TOTAL FABRIC COST ₹

2) TRIMMINGS COST :

TRIMMERS QUANTITY RATE (per meter) COST (in Rs.)

TOTAL TRIMMINGS COST ₹

3) LABOUR CHARGES:

LABOUR CHARGES CMT (per piece) COST (in Rs.)

TOTAL LABOUR CHARGES ₹

4) MISCELLANEOUS:

MISCELLANEOUS EXPENSES (over heads, power, transport, etc.) COST (in Rs.)

TOTAL COST INCURRED (all the ₹ added together)=₹

SELLING PRICE=TOTAL COST + PROFIT %=