Dollytime

White Rabbit in Wonderland

I hope you will enjoy knitting my version of Wonderland’s White Rabbit. He

measures 18cm (7in) which is just the right size to fit into a rabbit hole! As I couldn’t
decide which colours to choose for him (country shades or brighter cartoon style
colours) I have given both in the pattern. The brighter shades are shown in brackets
and the two different rabbits are pictured on the last page.

All knitting is done with double knitting yarn (DK yarn). The tension of your knitting
is not important but the knitted fabric should not be too loose otherwise the knitting
will stretch and the filler will show through the stitches. If you know your knitting
tends to be very loose then I suggest using needles one size smaller than specified. If
on the other hand you are a very tight knitter you should consider using needles one
size larger than specified.
If you would like an Alice doll as a companion for your White Rabbit you will find a
pattern for her in my Etsy shop (see below)
Happy knitting

Wendy
http://flutterbypatch.blogspot.com http://dollytime.etsy.com
© 2011 Wendy Phillips. This is a copyrighted design. All rights reserved. No part of this pattern
(illustrations or text) may be copied, reproduced or transmitted. Items knitted from this pattern can be
used for charity fund raising purposes but not for commercial gain.
Materials – bright cartoon style colours shown in brackets
Pair of 3.25mm needles (US 3)
Double knitting yarn (referred to as DK yarn) in following colours
White - rabbit
Brown (royal blue) - trousers
Mustard (yellow) - waistcoat
Olive green (red) - jacket
Blue (black) - bow tie
Mid brown - eyes
Mid brown embroidery floss - nose and mouth
Yarn sewing needle (tapestry needle)
Toy filler
Beads for waistcoat buttons (optional)
Button and silver thread (or chain) for watch

Abbreviations
K - knit
P - purl
St - stitch
St-st - stocking stitch
K2tog - knit two stitches together to make one
K3tog – knit three stitches together to make one
* * - repeat the pattern within asterisks
Kfb - knit in front and back to create a new stitch. For a kfb increase you make a knit stitch
but don't slide the old stitch off the left-hand needle. To finish the increase knit into the back
of the old stitch on the left-hand needle and slide it onto the right needle. You have made 2
stitches out of one.

Let’s get started

This pattern is for the rabbit wearing the traditional country colours. If you prefer brighter
shades you will find those colours in brackets.

Head
Cast on 6 stitches in white
1. purl
2. kfb across row (12st)
3. purl
4. kfb across row (24st)
5 - 15. st-st
16. *k3, k2tog* (twice), k4, *k2tog, k3* (twice) (20st)
17. purl
18. *k2, k2tog* (twice), k4, *k2tog, k2* (twice) (16st)
19. purl
20. *k4, k2tog* (twice), k4, (14st)
21. purl
22. k2tog across row (7st)

Cut the yarn leaving a long tail and using a tapestry needle take the 7 stitches from the
knitting needle onto this tail. This gathered end will be the rabbit’s nose so gather
tightly to avoid a hole appearing once the head is stuffed.

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Stitch the seam from the nose stopping just before the centre. Now gather the 6 cast
on stitches at the back of the head and stitch the seam stopping just before the centre
thus leaving a hole large enough to stuff the head.

Stuff the head firmly making sure enough filler goes into the nose to create a pleasing
shape. When you are happy with the head shape, close the seam. This seam will be at
the base of the head.

Eyes and nose

I like to place round headed pins on the face to represent eyes and nose before I start
stitching. This way I can check that they are positioned centrally.

I’ve used a medium brown embroidery floss to stitch the nose. Make a ‘V’ shape with
the base of the ‘V’ positioned over the centre of the gathered nose stitches. Now stitch
a vertical line below to turn the ‘V’ into a ‘Y’. Finally, place a tiny stitch on either
side at the base of the ‘Y’ to create a mouth.

The white rabbit in the Alice in Wonderland story had pink eyes but after
experimenting I decided to use a mid brown yarn. Eyes are often done by
embroidering French knots but the following method is one I use a lot as it produces
two identical eyes. If you don’t like the position of the eyes you can easily pull them
out and start again which I find very useful!

You need to cut a 20cm (8in) length of brown DK yarn for each eye. Tie a knot in the
centre of the yarn (illustration left) pull firmly. Then tie another knot exactly over the
first and pull firmly. Finally tie a third knot in the same way (illustration right). You
now have three knots one over the other and these will form the eye. If your yarn is
fairly fine you might want to make a fourth knot or alternatively use two strands of
yarn.

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Thread one of the yarn ends onto a needle and pass it through the position of the pin
and out at the base of the head (where it won’t be seen when the head is attached to
the body). Don’t fasten off.

Thread the second yarn end onto the needle and pass it through the stitch which is
next to the first one. Bring the yarn end through to the base of the head as before. Pull
the two ends until the eye is in the correct position but don’t fasten off yet. Repeat this
process for the second eye. Now you can make sure that both eyes are well spaced
and just where you want them. If not simply take hold of the knots and pull them out
of the head and then insert them again in a better position. Pull the yarn ends just
enough to create a small eye socket for each eye (not too deep). When you are
satisfied that the eyes are positioned correctly tie each pair of yarn ends together
firmly so that the eyes cannot be moved.

Ears – you will need 2 pieces for each ear

Cast on 7 stitches in white leaving a 20cm (8in) tail of yarn for stitching ears to head.
1 - 11. st-st starting with a purl row
12. k2tog, k3, k2tog (5st)
13. purl
14. k2tog, k1, k2tog (3st)
15. purl
16. k3tog

Cut the yarn leaving a short tail and using a tapestry needle take the 3 stitches from
the knitting needle onto this tail. Gather the three stitches and fasten off. Knit a
second piece.

Place two ear pieces together with right sides facing. Leave the bottom cast on edge
open and over sew or back stitch round the outside of the ear (stitch close to the edge).

Turn the ear so the right sides are facing out. Push a blunt pencil up inside the ear to
ensure the pointed end is fully turned.

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With the cast on yarn tail make a line of running stitches up the centre of the ear to the
top and back again (see picture below). Fold the cast on edge in half and over sew to
secure the two halves together and hold the ear in shape. Make second ear.

Position the ears on the back of the head and stitch firmly in place. Fasten off at the
base of the head (in the centre where it won’t be visible when head stitched to body).

Body
Cast on 15 stitches in brown (royal blue) and work in st-st
1. purl
2. kfb across row (30st)
3. purl
4. *k1, kfb* repeat across row (45st)
5. purl
6 – 17. st-st
18. k4, k2tog, k5, k2tog, k19, k2tog, k5, k2tog, k4 (41st)
Break off brown (royal blue) and join mustard (yellow)
19. purl
20. k4, k2tog, k5, k2tog, k15, k2tog, k5, k2tog, k4 (37st)
21 – 25. st-st
26. k4, k2tog, k5, k2tog, k11, k2tog, k5, k2tog, k4 (33st)
27 – 29. st-st
30. *k1, k2tog* repeat across row (22st)
31. purl
32. k2tog across row (11st)
33. purl
34. k2tog across row to last stitch, k1 (6st)

Cut the yarn leaving a 20cm (8in) tail and using a tapestry needle take the 6 stitches
from the knitting needle onto this tail.

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Gather the top of the body and stitch only 2.5cm (1in) seam. Now gather the cast on
edge at the base and stitch 2.5cm (1in) seam. You should now have a hole just large
enough to stuff the body. Stuff the body very firmly making sure it is slightly plumper
at the bottom than the top (see below). Close the seam using mattress stitch.

Jacket
Cast on 20 stitches in green (red) and work in garter stitch throughout (knit every
row).
1 – 12. knit and then place these stitches on a stitch holder
Cast on 20 stitches in green (red)
1 – 13. knit all rows and then place the stitches on the stitch holder onto your empty
needle and continue knitting so that you have a total 40 stitches on one knitting
needle.
Continue working on these 40 stitches
14 – 20. knit
21. k5,*k2tog, k4* (twice), k2tog, k2, k2tog,*k4, k2tog * (twice), k5 (34st)
22. knit
23. k4, *k2tog, k3 * (twice), k2tog, k2, k2tog,* k3, k2tog* (twice), k4 (28st)
24. knit
25. k3, * k2tog, k2* (5 times), k2tog, k3 (22st)
26. knit
27. k2,* k2tog, k1* (twice), k2tog, k2, k2tog, * k1, k2tog* (twice), k2 (16st)
28. knit
29. k1, k2tog to last stitch, k1 (9st)

Cut the yarn leaving a 15cm (6in) tail and using a tapestry needle take the 9 stitches
from the knitting needle onto this tail. Gather the top and fasten off.

If you look at the decrease stitches you will see they look neater on one side than the
other. Decide which side you prefer and use this as the outside of the jacket. Weave in
loose yarn ends on the wrong side. Place jacket on body and stitch down firmly at the
top where stitches will be hidden when head is in place.

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Pin the rabbit’s head to the body and view it from the front and sides to make sure it’s
in the correct position. Stitch firmly in place.

A note about using pipe cleaners (chenille stems)

I wanted the White Rabbit’s arms to bend so that he could hold his pocket watch so I
decided to use pipe cleaners (chenille stems) inside his sleeves. If you are making the
rabbit as a toy for a very young child then you will obviously omit these.

Sleeve
Cast on 5 stitches in green (red)
1. knit
2. kfb, k3, kfb (7st)
3. knit
4. kfb, k5, kfb (9st)
5 – 20. knit every row
Break off green (red) and join white
21 – 24. st-st starting with a knit row
25. k2tog across row to last stitch, k1 (5st)
Cut the yarn leaving a 15cm (6in) tail and using a tapestry needle take the 5 stitches
from the knitting needle onto this tail. Gather the end of the paw and stitch the seam
to the junction with the sleeve. Stitch the sleeve seam to row 4 where shaping begins.
If not using pipe cleaners then push small amounts of stuffing into the paw and
sleeve and stitch arm to the rabbit’s shoulders working all round the top opening.
If using pipe cleaners in arms then work as follows
Fold a single pipe cleaner in half and twist the two halves together. The folded end
makes a loop and this will be attached to the rabbit’s shoulders. The pointed ends will
go inside the paw and must be bent over so that the sharp points don’t pierce the
knitted fabric. The twisted pipe cleaner should be the same length as the sleeve and
paw (see below).

Push a tiny piece of stuffing down into the paw and then insert the pipe cleaner. The
arm doesn’t require more stuffing or it becomes too plump.

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Pin the arms to the rabbit’s shoulders. The knitted fabric should be slightly stretched.
If the pipe cleaner is too long then adjust the bottom ‘paw’ end.

Remove the sleeves so that you can and stitch the pipe cleaners firmly to the
shoulders. Pass your needle through from left shoulder to right and back again several
times.

With seams at the bottom replace the sleeves onto the pipe cleaners and stitch all
round the open top opening to create a realistic looking sleeve. The arms can now be
bent with ease.

Feet - you will need 2 pieces for each foot

Cast on 4 stitches in white
1. purl
2. kfb, k2, kfb (6st)
3 – 17. st-st
18. k2tog, k2, k2tog (4st)
19. purl
Cast off

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Place two foot pieces together with right sides facing. Leaving a short length of seam
open at one side for turning, over sew (or back stitch) round the outside of the foot
keeping close to the edge to avoid a bulky seam.

Turn the foot so the right sides are facing out. Fill with a very tiny amount of stuffing
so that the feet have shape but remain flat. Close the seam.
Pin the feet to the base of the rabbit so that the toes point outwards. Stitch to the body
through the centre of each foot. (see below).

Tail
The tail is made from a woolly pom-pom and here is my easy method of making one.
You’ll need a piece of stiff card measuring 3cm (1.25in) wide and 6cm (2.5in) long.
Cut a slit 4cm (1.5in) long down the centre of the card as shown below left (the slit
should be wide enough for your tapestry needle to pass through).

Wrap white yarn 40 times around the card leaving a tiny part of the slit peeking out at
both ends (see below right)

Thread your tapestry needle with 40cm (16in) of white yarn and knot ends together.

Push the needle through the hole formed by the slit (below left) and then through the
loop made by the yarn (centre left). With the yarn tucked into the open end of the slit,
pull to tighten the yarn round the pop-pom (centre right). Repeat this process to
ensure the pom-pom is secure. Pull it off the card (below right).

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Push the needle back and forth through the pom-pom pulling hard each time (below)

Leave the needle attached to the pom-pom ready for stitching to the rabbit. Cut all the
loops and trim to make a nicely rounded fluffy rabbit tail.

Stitch the tail to the rabbit

Waistcoat pocket.
Cast on 6 stitches in mustard (yellow)
1 – 4. st-st starting with a knit row
Cast off

Place three pins on the front of the waistcoat to represent buttons. These will be added
later. Pin pocket to waistcoat and stitch in place (tiny stitches round three sides
leaving top open).

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Bow tie
Cast on 42 stitches in blue (black)
1. knit
Cast off

Pull to straighten and then wrap round the rabbit’s neck and tie once at the front as
you would a scarf (left). Fold each end to the centre to create a bow and stitch in place
(right).

Watch and chain

No White Rabbit should travel to Wonderland without his pocket watch and so I’ve
tried to find a way of creating one that all knitters should be able to do. I’ve added
pictures of a pocket watch which you can print and cut out (see bottom of next page).
It is up to you which size you choose to use.

For the chain I made a thin twisted cord from fine silver coloured thread. You could
use a real chain if you have one to spare.

Making the watch

1. You need a small button that will fit inside the pocket. It will look best if large
enough to protrude slightly so use the largest button possible (not button with shank).

2. Cut out a watch face of the same size as the button or fractionally smaller (see
sample watches on last page).

3. Using the flat side of the button as the front, wrap a tiny piece of kitchen foil over
the back of the button and glue to the front.

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4. Glue the knotted end of the twisted cord to the flat side of the button so that the
knot sits just above the button.

Glue the watch face to the button so that it covers the end of the twisted cord.

Remove pins and stitch beads to waistcoat to represent buttons. Attach the end of the
cord under the centre bead. As an alternative to beads you can represent buttons by
making three small stitches (one over the other) in a contrasting shade.

Below are pocket watch faces in three sizes that you might want to print and cut out.
One should be the correct size. I used the one in the centre and removed the winding
knob. If you don’t have a suitable button then use a piece of thick card cut to the
correct size and cover with foil using the method shown above.

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