Development of Okra ( Abelmoschus esculentus) Mucilage as Hair and Scalp Conditioner

CHAPTER II
Review of Related Literature and Studies
This chapter includes the studies and literatures that helped the researchers support their
study. In essence, the review of the related literature and studies review identifies, evaluates and
synthesizes the relevance of these literature and studies to their study.

History and Origin of Okra ( Abelmoschus esculentus) Plant

Okra originated from the Abyssinian center, an area that includes Ethiopia, a portion of
Eritrea, and the eastern, higher part of the Anglo-Egyptian Sudan. The crop was probably taken
into Egypt by Moslems from the East who conquered Egypt in the seventh century. It was then
taken from Ethiopia to Arabia across the narrow Red Sea or the narrower strait at its southern end.
From Arabia okra spread over North Africa, completely around the Mediterranean, and eastward.
Okra is currently grown around the world, especially in the United States and in the humid climates
in Africa as well as in Sri Lanka in Asia. In Africa, the crop is cultivated in Kenya, Nigeria, Sudan,
Gabon, Cote d’Ivoire, Mali, Mauritania, Senegal, Cape Verde, and Chad. It is also grown in the
Southern Africa region such as in Angola, DR Congo, Malawi, Tanzania, and Zambia but often
not on a very large scale ( Muimba-Kankolongo,2018).
In South-east Asia, The genus Abelmoschus Medikus originated in South-East Asia. A.
esculentus, however, is a cultigen of uncertain origin. It is now widely cultivated in tropical and
subtropical regions, but is particularly popular in India, West Africa and Brazil. Okra is common
in the Philippines, Malaysia, Thailand and Vietnam, but of little importance in Indonesia and Papua
New Guinea. World okra production is estimated to be 5-6 million t/year, which is about 1.5% of
total world production of vegetables. No production statistics are available from South-East Asian
countries. Some fresh or frozen okra is exported from Thailand and the Philippines to Japan, and
okra in brine is a potential export item to the Middle East( Siemonsma, 2015).
Uses and Health Benefits of Okra
Okra is mainly grown for its young immature fruits, which are consumed as a vegetable,
raw, cooked or fried. It is a common ingredient of soups and sauces. The fruits can be conserved
by drying or pickling. The leaves are sometimes used as spinach or cattle feed, the fibres from the
stem for cord, the plant mucilages for medical and industrial purposes, and the seeds as a substitute
for coffee. Okra seeds contain a considerable amount of good quality oil and protein ( Siemonsma,
2015).
According to Das, et al.,(2015) on their study, Nutritional Quality and Health Benefits of
Okra (Abelmoschus esculentus): A review, Okra is a multipurpose crop due to its various uses of
the fresh leaves, buds, flowers, pods, stems and seeds. Okra immature fruits, which are consumed
as vegetables, can be used in salads, soups and stews, fresh or dried, fried or boiled. It offers
mucilaginous consistency after cooking. Often the extract obtained from the fruit is added to
different recipes like stews and sauces to increase the consistency. Okra mucilage has medicinal
applications when used as a plasma replacement or blood volume expander. The mucilage of okra
binds cholesterol and bile acid carrying toxins dumped into it by the liver. Okra seeds are a
potential source of oil, with concentrations varying from 20% to 40%, which consists of linoleic
acid up to 47.4%. Okra seed oil is also a rich source of linoleic acid, a polyunsaturated fatty acid
essential for human nutrition.
Chemical Composition of Okra
Okra bast, a multicellular fiber was analyzed and the estimated average chemical
compositions of OBF (Abelmoschus esculentus variety) are 67.5 % a-cellulose, 15.4%
hemicelluloses, 7.1 % lignin, 3.4 % pectic matter, 3.9 % fatty and waxy matter and 2.7 % aqueous
extract. It is clear that the main constituents of OBF are a-cellulose, hemicelluloses and lignin and
the rest are very minor in proportion, so render a little influence to the structure of OBF. Therefore,
the structure of acellulose, hemicelluloses and lignin and the mode of combinations that exist in
between themselves are dominating the structure of OBF. Okra Raw Nutrition Value per 100g
Energy 33kcal carbohydrates 7.45 g (140 kj) -sugars 1.48 g –Dietary fibers 3.2 g fat 0.19g protein
2g water 90.19g Vitamin A 36µg (7%) Thiamine (B1) 0.2 mg (17%) Riboflavin (B2) 0.06mg (5%)
Niacin (B3) 1mg (7%0 Vitamin C 23mg (28%) Vitamin E 0.27 mg (2%) Vitamin K 31.3 µg (30%)
calcium 82mg (8%) iron 0.62 mg (5%) magnesium 57 mg (16%) potassium 299mg (6%) zinc 0.58
mg (6%) Percentages are related to US recommendations to for adults. (Source: USFDA Database)
Okra is a popular health food due to its high fiber, Vitamin C, and folate content. Okra is also
known for being high in antioxidants. Okra is also a good source of calcium and potassium (
Kumar, 2013). As cited from the goodhairdiaries.com (2011) in their article Okra for Your Hair,
“ The protein and oil contained in the seeds of okra serves as the source of first-rate vegetable
protein. It is enriched with amino acids on the likes of tryptophan, cystine and other sulfur amino
acids.” All of these nutrients work together to create a hair cure-all that covers a range of concerns.
It is usually used as a hair gel since it offers great definition to curls and can offer lasting hold
without crunchiness.
Importance of Hair Care Products
Hair care products are designed to strengthen the hair follicles, revitalize the scalp, and
nourish the roots. They help seal hair color, repair damage, prevent split ends, and give hair a soft
and silky finish. Well, this may be a bitter pill to swallow, but a lot of hair care products on the
market today contain chemicals that may damage your hair and even your health. Synthetic hair
care products contain ingredients that are also used in there products such as plastics, motor
lubricants, refrigerants, insect repellants, Fuel gas, paint, and furniture finishers. These ingredients
are absorbed into your scalp and then, they are transported in your bloodstream. The toxins
contained in these ingredients can cause hair and skin dryness, hair thinning, and hair loss. But,
they can also cause more serious problems like allergic reactions, eczema, skin damage, eye
irritation, lung damage, kidney damage, and asphyxiation ( CliShea, 2017).
In addition, from study published in 2015, entitled “Shampoo and Conditioners: What a
Dermatologist Should Know?” written by Paschal D’Souza and Sanjay K Rathi, It is said that
Dermatologists many a times encounter questions from patients and even colleagues asking about
how to keep their hair looking clean, healthy and beautiful. Therefore, familiarity and a basic
knowledge of the available hair care products will help them to guide their patients properly. Hair
conditioners are designed to improve hair manageability, decrease hair static electricity and add
luster. They are used in several ways depending upon the state of hair and requirement of the
individual. This article attempts to put forward the basic and practical aspects regarding use of
these products.
Furthermore, It is said that, Conditioning agents can be defined as additives which enhance
feel, appearance, fullness, lubricity, reflectance, and general manageability of hair. The need for
hair conditioner arose following technological developments in shampoo formulation which lead
to efficient removal of sebum along with dirt and other undesirable residues from the hair and
scalp. Sebum being the ideal hair conditioner had to be replenished. Therefore, the need was felt
for a synthetic sebum like substance or a conditioner which was able to minimize static electricity,
increase hair shine, volume and improve hair manageability and also to maintain hair styling. They
are also used to recondition the hair following chemical treatments, such as waving, straightening,
and coloring, and following physical trauma induced by hair drying, brushing, and styling.
According to researchers at the National Institute of Health, Hair Care products just like
shampoos and conditioner contain an ingredient known as ‘methylisothiazoline (MIT)’ that can
contribute to cancer, liver disorders, and neurological damage. If this is true, how and in what ways
can this ‘methylisothiazoline’ harm you? Does the Abelmoschus esculentus have this ingredient
as well?

Benefits of Organic Hair Care Products

As a society, are becoming more aware of health and environmental issues, a large number
of people are choosing to buy organic and natural products, especially when it comes to the world
of health and beauty. But even though organic products are now widely available, many people
still have some doubts about using them or simply have a hard time switching from their favorite
products. According to Douglas (2019), there are some amazing benefits that will convince you to
make the transition:
First, They’re free from harsh chemicals. Mainstream hair care products are usually made
with strong, harsh and oftentimes toxic ingredients that might irritate your scalp, or even cause
irreversible damage to your hair and skin. Instead of simply washing and cleaning your hair, these
chemically infused products tend to foam up and strip your scalp from its natural oils and moisture,
leaving your hair dry and prone to breakage. But when you buy organic hair care products, you
can rest assured than no damaging chemicals are coming into contact with your hair and scalp.
Made with natural ingredients, such as vitamins, proteins, essential oils and plant extracts, organic
hair products are much gentler and safer for use, and they moisturise and enrich your scalp to
reveal healthier and more voluminous hair.
 Second, They’re safer for your skin. Apart from drying out and damaging your scalp, the
synthetic ingredients found in traditional hair care products might also be harmful to the rest of
your skin. As the water drips down your body while you’re using these products, your skin might
absorb those harsh chemicals, causing inflammation, irritation and allergic reactions. However, by
opting for organic shampoos and conditioners, you can prevent irritants from touching your skin,
and even eliminate the unnecessary and damaging intake of chemicals that can be seriously
harmful to your health, as organic products use only mild and gentle natural ingredients that are
perfectly safe for your skin, even during particularly sensitive times, such as pregnancy.
Third, They protect your scalp and hair. The strong, alkaline chemicals that can be found
in most traditional hair care products can be especially damaging to people who suffer from
dandruff and a dry and itchy scalp, as these products tend to strip the scalp of its protective layer,
drying it out even further and worsening this uncomfortable and unfavourable condition. However,
if you choose a great organic anti-dandruff shampoo, you can easily replenish the lost hydration,
provide your scalp with the nourishment it needs to balance out, reverse the damage that was done
by harsh ingredients, and ensure long-term scalp health. What’s more, these shampoos can also be
a great option for your hair, as they help to nourish and strengthen it, while giving it a beautiful
healthy shine.
Fourth, They’re gentler on the environment .When you’re in the shower, the excess
products that aren’t absorbed by your hair and scalp tend to be washed down the drain, where they
can negatively impact the environment, contaminating both the water and the soil in the process.
However, if you choose organic hair care products, which are made from harmless natural
ingredients that break down more easily, you can make sure that no toxic chemicals are harming
the environment. Manufacturing the synthetic ingredients that can be found in mainstream hair
care products can also create a large amount of waste and pollution, which has a detrimental effect
on nature, unlike eco-friendly and sustainably sourced organic ingredients.
Lastly, You get better product value. Although organic hair products can often be more
expensive than their chemically enhanced counterparts, the difference in price is not actually that
significant. And when you take into account all of the advantages of using natural products like
the Shea Butter Coconut Hair Cream, you’ll soon realize that you’ll often get much more value for
the money you’ve spent. As organic products are gentler, more efficient and highly beneficial to
both the health and the overall appearance of your scalp and hair, you won’t need to waste or use
a large amount of product in order to maintain smooth, glossy and lustrous hair. If you want
healthier, shinier and stronger hair, it’s high time to change your hair care routine and explore the
world of organic hair products – you’ll be doing both yourself and the environment a great favor.

Sebum in Scalp
According to Eske, (2020), The sebum is a coat of oil that is produced in the sebaceous glands. A
lipid is a fat molecule that protects the skin’s surface. These lipids help hydrate the skin and protect
it from potentially harmful pathogens, such as bacteria and fungi.
Sebaceous glands are glands that produce a sticky, oily substance that is produced on the skin.
Sweat helps moisturize and protect the skin. The compound contains several types of fat molecule.
Human sebum consists of 57.5% triglycerides and fatty acids, 26% wax esters, and 12% squalene,
a lipid.
The scalp is one of the parts where the highest concentrations of sebaceous glands locate. Each
area of skin may have up to 900 sebaceous glands per square centimeter. Sebaceous glands produce
a greasy substance called sebum through a process of programmed cell death. Specialized cells
called sebocytes release sebum into the sebaceous glands. The sebum travels through a small duct
that connects the sebaceous gland to the hair follicle. The hair that grows on the skin pulls the
sebum off the skin’s surface. The production of sebum fluctuates in response to changing hormone
levels. Traditionally considered male sex hormones, especially testosterone, plays an important
role in regulating the activity of sebaceous glands. The production of sebum, a natural oil that
lubricates the skin, peaks shortly after birth and decreases within the first week of life. During
puberty, testosterone floods the body, triggering another spike in the production of sebum.
Testosterone and sebum levels naturally decline with age.
Sebum contributes 90% of the lipids on the skin’s surface. Lipids act as a moisture barrier,
protecting the skin from damage. Secretions from the skin also transport an important source of
antioxidants, vitamin E, to the skin’s surface. This procedure may help prevent oxidative skin
damage. Sebum can contribute to the following:
Hydration: Sebum helps keep moisture inside the skin, which promotes skin hydration and
flexibility.
Antioxidant transport: Sebum transports fat-soluble antioxidants to the surface of the skin.
Antioxidants are natural compounds that protect against the damaging effects of free radicals.
Protection against microbes: Sebum is slightly acidic, with a pH of between 4.5 and 6.0Trusted
Source. As a result, it helps prevent harmful pathogens, such as bacteria and viruses, from
penetrating the skin.
The sebaceous glands produce an oily substance called sebum, which contributes the vast majority
of lipids — fat molecules — to the skin’s surface. These surface lipids keep the skin hydrated and
healthy. Too much or too little sebum can cause skin problems. Sebum production can either cause
the skin to be oily, or it can lead to a dry, itchy, or flaky skin. Many over-the-counter skin care
products and home care strategies can help rebalance sebum levels. If these techniques are not
effective, a person might want to contact a doctor.
Sebum in scalp often removed after shampooing, that’s why it is important to use conditioners to
retain and restore the washed sebum in scalp.
Okra as Hair Care Product
According to the published article from hairstylecamp.com entitled “ Okra Benefits for
Hair”, This vegetable contains good quantities of vitamin A, for which it can be used to powerfully
moisturize and humidify one’s hair, restoring even the most damaged and dry ones – especially
when using or doing treatments with chemicals, or frequently blow-drying and flat-ironing the
hair. The results are better shine and softness since this vegetable acts as a hair conditioner. Being
rich in vitamin A, vitamin B complex, vitamin C, vitamin E and vitamin K, as well as minerals
such as calcium, iron, magnesium, zinc and potassium, and high quantities of mucilaginous fibers,
directly applying okra “slime” on hair can fight against and prevent all damages caused by the
agents mentioned above, making hair shinier and softer. That is the reason many cosmetic
industries are investing in okra to create new lines and hair treatment products which contain this
powerful main active ingredient. Okra moisturizer is super potent and shows surprising results to
users from the very first moment. That’s why it is recommended for hair that needs intense and
powerful moisturizing, such as curly, kinky, wavy and afro hair which tend to be naturally very
dry.
In addition, Schimitz (2019), claims that Okra can be used as a leave-in-conditioner and
promise you that user will fall in love with the slip which is what we always look out for when
they purchase their leave-in-conditioners. She added, ‘I prefer okra to all the leave-in-conditioners
in the market because of its many benefits’. Okra is cheap and the leave-in-conditioner is very easy
to prepare. Furthermore, Okra is beneficial on hair in a way, It adds moisture to our kinks. For
someone like me who have a high porosity hair, Okra makes your kinks soft and easy to comb and
more manageable. Okra makes the natural hair easy to style and it is also a great detangler. Okra
makes the hair very healthy. Okra creates amazing curl definition even better than most curl
defining products. With Okra gel, you shouldn’t be afraid of build up or flaking. Okra gel can be
used to achieve a beautiful 2 strand twist hairstyle. Okra gel can be used as a leave in conditioner.
In the absence of a gel, you can use it to lay down your edges.
From the Related literature and studies cited above, Okra ( Abelmoschus esculentus) has a
great potential to be formulated as Alternative hair conditioner.