Fall Cragging, Mixed Climbing + Belay Coats

Henry Barber

s
Legend
Sasha DiGiulian Crack Climber
Tells Her Story º DIDIER
BERTHOD
Returns from
the Monastery

THE GUNKS
The Best Eastern
Fall Destination

Get Strong for

Winter Climbing
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Embrace the
Zealot in you.
When you’ve got work by nine but you’re sending
cruxes by five, reach for the all-new Zealot 30. Dual
compartments keep your everyday carry and climbing
gear separate. Around-town flexibility helps blend
your passion with your lifestyle.

AVA I L A B L E AT O S P R E Y R E TA I L E R S
A N D O S P R E Y.C O M
 contents

October/November 2023
Sean Cassar on Tufa Tirtoghod 5.12c (7b+), Garden of Eden Sector, Malta
Photo Massimo Cappuccio

Features
20 How Henry Barber Shaped ’70s Climbing by David Smart
26 Didier Berthod Returns from the Monastery by Dave Barnes
32 Celebrating Ice Climbing Festivals by Tim Banfield

Departments
04 Editorial 38 Area Profile
You Can’t Beat Fall Cragging 38 Malta and Gozo by Massimo Cappuccio
06 Booty 42 The Gunks
08 10 Questions Sasha DiGiulian 49 The Rack
10 The Basics 50 Fall Crag Days
Tips to Mixed Climb Better by Gord McArthur 54 The Mixed Climber
58 Burly Belay Coats
12 Off the Wall
Going from Sport to Trad by Joe Thomas 60 News
14 The Route 62 Northern Exposures
La Pomme d’Or, Big Quebec Ice Classic 64 Notes from the Top
16 Native Stones Reconnecting With An Old Friend
Watchtower Creek, Jasper in Yosemite by Chris Van Leuven

Cover: Sasha DiGiulian on Exasperator 5.10c, Squamish Photo Tim Banfield

gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023

03
3
editorial
You Can’t Beat
Fall Cragging
There’s no better time of year to be a crag climber than now. As
the days get shorter and the conditions crisper, you can finally put your
summer of climbing hard and projecting to the test. Whether it’s fric-
tion slab or steep jugs, cooler temperatures give you that tacky advan-
tage that you didn’t have midsummer. Not to mention the wildfire
smoke has dissipated and the crowds have returned to their routines
away from the rock.
When heading out for some fall cragging, be sure to pack the essen-
tials, such as the puffy jacket, a toque and maybe some mitts. The
mornings will be cool, so be prepared to strip off layers throughout the
day, especially on those steep approaches. You probably won’t have to
worry about mosquitoes or a scorching sun, so leave the bug spray and
sunscreen lotion at home.
One of my favourite ways to crag in October and November is by
arriving just after noon with a big bag packed with cozy layers, a ther-
mos of tea and snacks to munch on until home time, just before the sun
dips. If you’re lucky enough to be in an area with a variety of leafy trees,
then maybe bring an extra rope so you can fix a line to take some photos.
And if you’re hoping to get some photos of the fall colours, bring some
bright layers so you pop against the darker rock.
By late fall, when the leaves have all dropped and the ground begins
Editor Brandon Pullan brandon@gripped.com
Publisher Sam Cohen sam@gripped.com
Editorial Director David Smart dave@gripped.com
Photo Editor Matt Stetson matt.stetson@gripped.com
News Editor Andre Cheuk andre@gripped.com
Assistant Online Editor Aaron Pardy aaron@gripped.com
Copy Editor Amy Stupavsky
Art Director Warren Wheeler layout@gripped.com [roseandermain.com]
Advertising and Sales Andre Cheuk andre@gripped.com
Account Manager Joel Vosburg joel@gripped.com
Account Manager Lorena Jones lorena@gripped.com
Circulation Sam Cohen sam@gripped.com
Production Artist Warren Hardy
Social Media Nikita van Dijk nikita@gripped.com
Digital Operations Dmitry Beniaminov
04 gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023
to freeze in the morning, many climbers will opt to hit the gym instead
of the crag. But from years of experience, this is when you’ll have some
of your best days. Those just-above-freezing temperatures can create
some of the best conditions for climbing hard slab and vertical lines.
I often wear a baggy puffy coat between burns, one big enough that I
can put my shoes close to my chest. That way, your toes will stay warm
when you go to lace up again.
And don’t be afraid to head out just because the snow has started to
fall. Find a crag with routes steep enough that it doesn’t accumulate
snow. Because it’s too chilly to thaw anything, the rock will be free of
seepage until spring. You might want to bring a rope that’s rated for
damp or wet weather, as the midday heating will melt any snow or frost
at the base of the wall.
By this time of year, your mental games should be at their best all
rock season. Just remember there’s a balance of trying hard while not
wanting it too much. Keeping the desire to climb the rock into the fall
is important so you can put down those summer projects. Keep the
stoke up, put in the extra effort—and “grrr” down a little bit harder as
this rock season winds down, you’ll be happy that you did. Enjoy your
fall cragging!
Brandon Pullan
Manuscripts, photographs and other correspondence welcome. Please contact
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Warning: The activities described in this magazine carry a significant risk to the participants of injury or
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inherently dangerous. The publishers, owners, shareholders and management of Gripped recommend that
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Copyright: 2023 Gripped: The contents of this magazine may not be reproduced in whole or in part without
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booty

Arc’teryx Bird Head Toque Petzl Micro Traxion

$50 $95
This iconic toque has gone through The released-for-summer-2023 Micro
several updates over the years, Traxion builds on previous models and
but it’s still one of the best head continues to be one of the best mid-sized
warmers out there. It’s snug, fits progress-capture pulleys. Designed for
nice, not too tight and maintains its hauling, this compact device is a must-have
Rab Men’s Banff Force Hoody appearance after months of use for all big wall climbers.—Gripped
$70 and washing.
This limited edition long-sleeve is Rab’s Force
Hoody with a print of Lake Louise (on the
back). It’s the perfect layer for fall climbing
and training. It’s lightweight, breathable,
and durable. The Banff festival takes place
Oct. 28 to Nov. 5.

The North Face Men’s ThermoBall Traction Booties

$52
Fall is bootie season, so if you don’t already have a pair, then be sure
to pick some up. The Traction Booties are stylish, easy to slip on and
make for great between-burn attempts on your fall project.

Black Diamond Method S

$180
Black Diamond has come a long way in the world of climbing shoes
over the past few years, with the newer Method S being one of the
brand’s best-ever soft shoes. It’s ideal for climbers looking for a
sensitive shoe for hard boulders. It was designed by legendary Greek
re-soler George Vlahandreas.

06 gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023

 Athlete: Amity Warme. Photographer: JP Melville

GENERATOR MID
CHARGE UP.
Over two years of study and research have led to
the creation of the GENERATOR MID, the ultimate
shoe for Trad Climbing. Designed for climbers who
prioritize support, comfort and protection with laser
precision. From granite big walls to desert cracks
the GENERATOR MID offers top performance on
the most serious of traditional climbs. SCARPA.COM
10 questions

On Her Book Take the Lead

Sasha DiGiulian is one of the world’s leading climbers. For Did writing the book take away from
nearly two decades, she’s been at the forefront of hard single and your climbing?
multi-pitch climbing. After making the podium at the 2011 World For part of the writing, I was laid up with my
Championships, she made quick work of the famous Pure Imagination broken pelvic bone. Then, when I recovered, I
5.14c at Red River Gorge. She’s a three-time national champion, who had to find the time to balance getting back to
made the first free ascent of the 15-pitch Misty Wall in Yosemite with my sport, with launching my Send Bars com-
Jon Cardwell in 2017. In 2022, she made the second ascent of Rayu, a pany and embarked on the lengthy endeavour
15-pitch 5.14-, with Brette Harrington and Matilda Soderlund. of writing a book. But at the same time, I
DiGiulian has completed her first book, Take the Lead, for fall 2023. evolved a lot through writing my book. I found
that in the process of writing it, I learned a lot
What motivated you to write a book? about myself, about people I love, and got to
I’ve wanted to write a book for a while. Writing is something I turn revisit memories that I hadn’t thought about
to to for a multitude of things, including to process my emotions and or processed. I learned about the foundational
feelings, and to resolve conflicts in my mind. I’ve always turned to writ- patterns of what makes me who I am and
ing during tough times, like losing my dad, being on big climbing trips, sifted through past decisions and actions that
going through changes in life—and it is what I majored in at Columbia I have made.
University: creative non-fiction writing. I never felt like it was the right
time, though. Then, in March 2020, I was diagnosed with hip display- You also started the company Send
sia and was looking down the barrel of five surgeries that would put me Bars. What’s been the most exciting
out from climbing for nine months. The uncertainty of this thing called part of running your own business?
“covid” along with a couple other life events, and I felt this inflection Having a team that inspires me pushes me, and that I deeply respect.
point in my life—like, I was heading towards a new chapter change. Climbing is, for the most part, an individual sport. Being the founder
and the CEO of Send Bars and getting to work with a team in which
What do you focus on in Take the Lead? we are all rooting for the same thing is such a refreshing break from
I focus on the first chapter of my life (to this point). Take the Lead is a the intrinsic insular nature of hard climbing. I’ve always appreciated
coming-of-age memoir—in which I finally get to share, in my own voice, having multiple dimensions, and things outside of climbing going on.
with extreme vulnerability—my life’s narrative from my experiences Send Bars started as just a passionate alternative to eating the crap that
growing my career within climbing to more holistically, life’s challenges, was on the market, and it has now become this incredibly new exciting
how I have faced them, how I have overcome them, and what lessons I venture that took off—and continues to seem to find its wings in new
have learned. The book includes my experience paying my own way at avenues—while also being this fascinating challenge that has taught
Columbia University from my budding professional career as a climber— me so much more about business than I thought I knew.
sacrifices, mistakes, and decisions that I have made, going through loss,
and finding my voice. What was it like getting back on Squamish
granite this summer?
What’s one route that stands out to you from your I had blown my LCL finishing out the multi-pitch route that Lynn
climbing experiences? Hill and I had been developing over the last year and was coming off
I would say Bellavista (5.14b at the time—is it 5.14a now? Everything eight weeks out from climbing with a finger injury prior to that—so
I do gets downgraded it seems) in the Dolomites since it was my first just getting to be back climbing was such a treat. But getting to be on
big wall experience. Squamish granite was so much better than I could have anticipated. I

08 gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023

 had been to Squamish back when I was 12 or something Anything else you’d like to add about your new
on a quick bouldering trip so to be able to return and book or what’s coming up in the next year?
climb The Chief, explore the different facets of climbing I’m excited to get to share my story, uninterrupted, and
that Squamish has and to see a bunch of friends while just hopefully inspire some people. I wrote it for climbers and
being outside with great energy was fun. non-climbers alike, which is why I chose to include a glos-
sary of climbing terms (which I had Lynn Hill and Conrad
You’ve climbed all around the world, but where’s Anker proof for me as well) at the front, to create a welcom-
one place you’d love to visit that you haven’t? ing space. The rest of the year—I actually just got married!
I’d really like to visit Turkey as well as Croatia. And, I hope to send Queen Line, the route that Lynn Hill
and I have spent a long time bolting and developing in the
Take the Lead is a perfect title for the book. How Flatirons, as well as spend most of November in Yosemite on
did you come up with it? El Cap.—Gripped
It was my working title for a long time. I put it as a place-
holder and thought that it might be cheesy. But the more
I wrote and sat with it, and used the term both on days
Photo Tim Banfield

out climbing, and in business meetings at my company—I

realized how universal the saying is, yet also how much it
Top: Sasha DiGiulian
ties to climbing, which undoubtedly is a large component on Exasperator 5.10c,
of my book. So, I stuck with it. Squamish

09
gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023
Tips to
Mixed Climb Better
Being Prepared for the Season Will Help You Send

Story by Gord McArthur

Veteran mixed and ice climber Gord McArthur has spent over 20 years pushing his limits
Photos Tim Banfield

on steep terrain. He’s established some of the world’s most difficult drytool pitches and has
competed for Canada at world cups in a dozen countries. His experience and skills make him
a great instructor and coach. Based in B.C., he shares some thoughts on how to prepare for the
upcoming season on the tools.

10 gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023

 the basics

Strong Base Hang from the Tools

To be active in any sport, giving your body a I hang from my tools all the time. Whether
good base level of strength is important. Your on a route somewhere in the mountains, in my
core, upper body, lower back, legs and shoul- training gym or from the moulding of a door-
ders need to be on a solid foundation. Pullups, way at my hotel. Be comfortable with the idea
squats, dead lifts, shoulder presses, push-ups, of hanging from your tools for as long as you
dips, triceps extensions—these exercises will can. Increasing your ability to hang from tools
give you the foundation to move into sport- for longer periods takes time. Do 5 x 5 repeat-
specific strength training. ers (10 seconds on, 10 seconds off, x 5 sets
x 5 rounds—25 hangs). Once you can do that
Be Mobile comfortably, drop down to doing it with one
Your ability to move from A to B needs to be arm. And once that seems good, add weight. I
smooth, using the least amount of energy as do this hanging straight up and down, as well
possible. You don’t need to be able to do the as in the figure-4 and -9 positions.
splits, but less time relying on upper body will
save you energy for when it’s needed. Get your Time on the Terrain
body loose, grease your hips and flow. You can have the best beach bod out there, but
it will do you no good if you don’t know how
Specific Power to move on the terrain. Your bustling biceps
Lock-off power is very much needed on mixed may look good on the ground, but they’ll do
and drytool routes. To be clear, a one-arm you no good if you’re gassin’ out or freakin’
pullup is not a necessity, but lock-off power is out halfway up a route. Get out there, climb
certainly helpful when reaching for big moves on terrain that will push you physically and
upwards or laterally. Take a series of hard mentally. Get upside down and work on tech-
training moves (8 to 10 moves) that push you nically hard moves. Swing around aggressively
to your absolute limit. You are performing at from your tools in a hanging position. Be
100 per cent through these few moves. What ready to make decisions with confidence, so
you’re doing is recruiting your ultimate level of that when it’s go time, your head and body are
power, which then gives you more endurance ready for action.
on longer routes.
Your Gear Matters
Training Plan There are different brands and every one of
One of the most important things for winter them offers something slightly different to
climbing is a solid training plan. It can take the other. I’ve spent a lot of time trying differ-
years of practice to refine and define what ent equipment (tools, boots, gloves, harnesses,
works best for you, but without specific direc- helmets) but there is no real answer to what’s
tion, you can find yourself going in circles. I the best, only that what fits you the best and
like to break up my plan into three cycles: how you perform on that specific piece of gear.
Opposite: Gord McArthur on Fire
strength, power endurance, and then sport- When it comes to ice axes, be sure to try a Roasted M10+, Upper Haffner Creek,
specific technical movement. With these three few styles. Budgets come into play as tools are Kootenay National Park
cycles, I usually take 8 to 12 weeks, depending expensive. Can you only afford one set? Pick
Opposite: McArthur warms up at
on your timelines before the season. What’s the best tool that adapts to multiple terrains. Upper Haffner Creek
important within your training plan is to Be confident in your kit, know the functional-
change things up. Your body can hit a plateau ity of everything you use. Always have a back-
if you do the same things over and over. It up, like extra picks, extra gloves, extra front
needs change. Listen to your body and adapt points and so on.
to what it needs. Gord McArthur is a climbing coach based in B.C.

gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023

11
 Left: Trad climbing for Bottom: The author
the views topping out tries to make sense of
on Upper Scout Crag, his second-ever time

Going Lake District with a trad rack

From Trust your gear

Sport It’s fine knowing what a good placement looks

like, but can you trust that it will hold you
in a fall? It became clear to me that I didn’t

to Trad when talking to another climber about not

being near my technical limit on trad gear.
He replied, “Well how many falls have you

Climbing taken on gear?” My answer was two. Clearly, I

didn’t trust my gear placements enough. This
is one of the hardest parts of going from sport
The Lessons to trad. Every time I led a climb my mind
switched into “solo mode” where falling was
I Learned not an option at all. This led to worse deci-
sions and poor climbing technique. I would
second guess moves that were straightforward
and overgrip holds. This was absolutely a more
dangerous way of climbing and led to some
sketchy situations.
To be clear here, I’m not advising that you
should go out and take whips on gear you don’t
trust. Have a buddy set up a toprope and find a
steep crack with plenty of gear. Climb it, plac-
ing gear as you go but bounce test each piece.
You should find quickly which pieces you can
trust and what a good placement looks and
Story by Joe Thomas feels like. Then the next time you go to lead a
climb you’ll hopefully be a bit more confident
Making the jump from sport to trad climbing is a tough step. Climbs require a new set of in placements.
techniques and a steep learning curve. Going from predominantly sport climbing in Canada and
then moving back to the U.K., I struggled adapting to the style of trad climbing. Getting it right
means you’re open to a new world of adventurous climbs that can take you (almost) anywhere. Be super safe on the belay
Trad anchors aren’t two shiny bolts that you
can perfectly equalize. Learning to trad climb
Essential Lessons in the U.K., where bolts are virtually non-exis-
tent, I quickly had to adapt to building safe
Know your gear trad anchors. For my first trad anchor, I was
Being good at trad climbing means know- unsure what was considered safe, so I opted to
ing your gear and how to use it well. There’s walk the rope around a huge boulder 10 metres
already a lot of great articles and videos about from the top of the crag. After bringing my
beginner trad racks and how to place gear, so impatient second up they then proceeded to
I’ll leave the exact details out. It’s important show me some very convenient cam place-
that no matter what rack you buy, you learn ments from next to where I had topped out.
how to place every piece in a variety of orien-
tations and situations. Spend a lot of time on Building trad anchors is a skill and
the ground at the crag working wires and cams takes constant practice
into cracks. Look at how well each placement There are plenty of videos and guides online
will work. Find a system of racking your gear showing you how to build safe, efficient
so when you need a piece, you know where it anchors, start there. Build anchors on the
Photos Joe Thomas, Ceri Thomas

is. This will all feel clunky at first but soon ground and have other climbers check them.
becomes as natural as clipping a draw. Only when you’re certain you can build
anchors in a variety of situations, use them
when they matter. Fortunately, a lot of begin-
ner trad areas, like the Back of the Lake, have
bolted belays and lower offs which can make
learning easier.

12 gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023

 off the wall

Technique Lessons
Outside of technical aspects, the skillset of technique for trad
climbing is slightly different to sport. Changing from sustained
sequences of powerful moves to slow, methodical climbing takes
discipline. When starting out on trad climbs, the grades will likely
feel weird and a bit stiff. These next few tips should help with an
adjustment to the style.

Learn how to jam

It’s difficult to trad climb without using cracks. Unless you’re plan-
ning on climbing solely on bold slabs, learning to comfortably jam
cracks of different sizes is an essential technique. Learning how to
be secure jamming finger up to fist-sized cracks will unlock a lot
more routes. Finding balanced positions where a good hand jam
feels as solid as a jug makes placing gear and relaxing mid-route
much easier. The WideBoyz crack school series on YouTube pro-
vides a very good guide and introduction but isn’t a substitute to just
getting some outside practice.

Trust your feet

Seriously. It’s an overused phrase in climbing but perfecting your
balance and precision on foot placements is essential. It will help
you stay calm whilst working in a tricky bit of gear. For me, going
from standing on sharp limestone edges to trusting slopey gritstone
smears was a major challenge. Trusting that my feet weren’t just
going to magically slip off took getting used to. There’s no hard
and fast way of learning this. Every time you climb a route focus a
lot more on your balance; take it slowly and precisely. Try and find
no-hands rests and areas you can stand comfortably. It’s more than
likely on easier routes, where there should be plenty.

Mileage is worth more than training (at least to start)

Hopefully, what’s clear from these technique tips is that they come
with experience. Being able to pull hard on small edges has its
benefits, especially to harder trad climbs, but when just starting out
mileage is key. Doing this safely either on a top rope or very well
protected line will help reinforce the muscle movements, precision
and trust you need for trad climbing. Once confident, pick some
climbs toward the edge of your comfort zone and gradually push
harder. You’ll find a massive confidence boost.

Find a mentor or guide

All the opinions I’ve given here are my own and not professional
advice. One of the best ways to learn how to go from sport to trad
climbing safely is through a course with a guide. They’ll give you the
latest professional advice and show you what systems are safe. Seek
the opinions of other more experienced climbers, too. Most climb-
ers are more than happy to help teach you new skills.

Trad climbing ultimately forces new skills, techniques, and focus.

It can feel like a significant challenge but may just be the boost you
need to improve your climbing.
Joe Thomas is a U.K. climber who started sport climbing in the
Canadian Rockies before returning home to learn about trad.
 La Pomme d’Or
Quebec’s Classic Big Ice Line

Tucked away in Quebec’s La Malbaie is one of the world’s most

famous tall ice lines. La Pomme d’Or is on Mont de l’Equerre in
Hautes-gorges de la rivière Malbaie. It offers big exposure, hard ice,
steep climbing and a true adventure. The 360 metres is divided into
six pitches with climbing up to WI6 in lean conditions and WI5 in
fat years. The first ascent was by Kurt Winkler and Jim Tierney in
March 1980.
In 1985, famous Italian climber Renato Casarotto, along with part-
ners Guido Ghigi and Gian Carlo Grassi, made one of the first repeats.
Casarotto went on to become one of the boldest alpinists of all time.
Then, in 1989, the late Guy Lacelle became the first climber to solo La
Pomme d’Or, which made the climb on of the most famous in Canada
to date.
After some scrappy mixed pitches, you come into the initial WI4
sections that lead to steeper and steeper ice. It’s found 30 kilometres
from the road and takes more than a day to complete car to car. No
snowmobiles are allowed, so climbers must use skis or snowshoes.
There’s no cell service, so bring an alternative communication device.
It’s located arout 2.5 hours east of Quebec City, with the nearest town
being Malbaie. All climbers must have an access permit to climb the
route, which takes about a week to get.
Despite being so remote, this climb sees a lot of traffic once it’s
formed. More than one climber has had an epic on this huge piece of
ice. Check Quebec’s ice climbing forums to stay up to date on condi-
tions. Once this classic is formed, be sure to have a plan in place for how
Photo John Price

you’re going to get there.

14 gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023

 the route

La Pomme d’Or Opposite: Sarah Amazing Quebec Ice Climbs

WI5/6, 360 metres Hueniken on Le Gringalet WI4, 3 pitches
La Pomme d’Or
Pitch 1: Up right on a slab to a ledge. Some rock pro might be helpful Baltique WI4/5
if there’s no ice (M3 30 m). Above: La Pomme Les Diablerets WI4
d’Or (at right)
Pitch 2: Traverse left toward the fatter ice and pitons for belay (M3 40 m). Devil’s Tooth WI5
Pitch 3: Start up thin ice and head into the steeps (WI5 60 m). Topaze WI4, 3 pitches
Pitch 4: Continue up steep and beautiful ice (WI5 60 m). Voyage Imaginaire WI3, 3 pitches
Pitch 5: This is often the steepest crux (WI5/6 30 m). Pilier Simon-Proulx WI5, 3 pitches
Pitch 6: Continue to the top (WI5/6 30 m).

Details
Winter camping: Prepare for cold weather and lots of snow. Pay a
camping fee before you head in. No fires allowed, so bring a stove.
Protection: Bring a lot of ice screws, and a small rack of rock gear for
the approach pitches during thin years.
Photo Matt Brooks

Descent: Rappel off V-threads.—Gripped

gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023

15
Watchtower
Creek
Perfect Fall Cragging in a Jasper Canyon

16 gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023

 Opposite: Mich Balto
native stones
on Summer Rain 5.10c

Below: Hot Carl 5.10b

Bottom: Elk next to

Medicine Lake

Jasper National Park is known for its towering peaks, classic ridges
and long slab routes, but few crags stand out as being up there with the
best in the Rockies. While Lost Boys, a quartzite crag on the old high-
way ranked among the best in the park, offers steep and often run-out
routes on solid quartzite, it’s the vertical walls of Watchtower Creek
that deliver one of the best vertical modern crags in the area.
The crag was mostly developed in the 2000s by a handful of climbers,
such as Greg Tos, Sean Elliot, Dana Ruddy and others. The climbs
range from 20 to 30 metres, with the upper 5.12 lines following over-
hanging terrain. The climbs are divided into six walls, though there is
Photos Brandon Pullan

room for much more development. There are around 40 routes, with a
nice spread between moderate, 5.10s and 5.11s, and hard up to 5.13.
The approach to Watchtower Creek isn’t difficult, and only takes
around 30 minutes, which is likely why it’s become such a popular loca-
tion over the past few years. From Jasper, you take the scenic Maligne

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18 gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023
 native stones
Area Details
Guidebook: Rock Climbing Wildlife: This is bear country, so
Jasper National Park by Francois bring bear spray. When in season,
Laplante. It’s available at Gravity expect mosquitoes and wasps.
Gear in Jasper. Medicine Lake: If you have a
Getting There: Drive south on paddleboard or canoe, then you
Maligne Lake Road until Medicine should follow up your climbing
Lake, park on the right. Follow a with a cruise on the lake. It’s fun to
faint trail on the east shoreline until paddle to the obvious large boul-
you can hike up the first canyon. der on the peninsula across from
Gear: 60 metre rope, the parking. There are three prob-
Opposite: Mich Balto
boulders at Medicine 12 quickdraws, helmet. lems: Voice of Reason V4, Great
Lake on the way to Season: Late spring until the Than V3 and Or Equal To V3.
Watchtower snow flies in late fall. Camping and food: Jasper
Left: Watchtower Excelsior Fire: In 2015, a fire has several campgrounds, it’s also
Creek fossil burned along the lake and up easy to find a place to park your
Right: Seamstress
Watchtower Cree, but it did not van for free. Check out the Whistle
5.11a damage the rock or bolts. Stop Pub for great local food
Top Five Hard Routes: Purple post-climb.
Lake Road south until you see the Rainy Day Slabs on your left. These Hazing 5.13a, To Infinity and Jasper National Park: You’ll
slabs have been the focus of local climbers for 60 years, and one 11-pitch Beyond 5.13a, Footprints from need to purchase a park pass to
bolted 5.7 called Freediver has become an area classic. After the slabs, Canmore 5.12d, Kazathon 5.12c, enter this area.
you reach Medicine Lake, where you park in an obvious lot on the right. Mojo 5.12a Other Climbing Areas: Rainy
From there, you hike along Medicine Lake until you reach the canyon, Top Five Moderate Routes: Day Slab and Medicine Slab offer
at which point you turn east and head in. Moose is Loose 5.9, Hot Carl classic slab climbs, such as Cadot
The hike along the shoreline takes you next to some amazing dolo- 5.10b, Summer Rain 5.10c, Crack. Lost Boys south of Jasper
mite boulders that offer V0 problems to V3. The small shrubs and Seamstress 5.11a, Schooner 5.11b is a must-visit crag.
sparse trees leave the lake in full view. Everything changes once you
encounter Watchtower Creek, a fast-flowing river that cascades down
through the mountains. The water might be too high to cross in spring,
but it brings to life the many wildflowers (wood lilies, red paintbrushes,
pink heathers and more), as well as sages and trees that burst with life
until fall. As you follow the trail, you’ll pass under some perfect-for-
climbing walls that are yet to be developed. At the trail’s end, you’ll
encounter a fork where you can go left to the Upper Tier, straight to
the Voodoo Lounge or right to the Kiss the Sky Wall—the three walls
described below. The other three walls that each have one route are
Azlan Land, Lower Tier and Finnito Land.
Upper Tier is where you want to go for fun 5.10 and 5.11 routes. Like
most routes in the Jasper area, the climbs in Watchtower are slightly
sandbagged—just slightly. To reach the crag, hike up and left past
downed trees and along logs until you’re under a 5.10a called Married
with Children. The next route, Hot Carl, is one of the best 5.10b climbs
around and a must-do. All of the climbs here are musts, but Hot Carl,
Moose is Loose 5.9 and Seamstress 5.11a are the most popular.
At the Voodoo Lounge, you’ll find some steep routes up solid rock.
There’s often less chalk visible on these, but Sweet Voodoo 5.11b is fan-
tastic. It climbs a technical wall to a steep arête and easier groove. The
other lines are Airway to Heaven 5.12a and Day Bed 5.12b.
Kiss the Sky Wall has some of the most amazing steep limestone
climbing in Jasper National Park. It climbs above a ledge that steeply
angles up and right, while the river rages beneath—communication is
always a little tricky between the belayer and climber. It’s a good idea to
bring a stick clip, as the starts are a little burly. The best climb to warm
up on is Summer Rain, a 14-metre, five-bolt 5.10c. It climbs a layback
Photos Brandon Pullan

crack into some big moves before ending below a roof. To Infinity is a
five-star 5.12a that climbs a blue streak on good holds and hard moves.
Purple Hazing is a 27-metre, 10-bolt 5.13a many climbers consider the
best at the grade in Jasper. It follows mid-5.12 moves up pumpy sections
to the top of the wall.—Gripped

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 Henry
Barber
The Climber Whose Principles
and Relentless Energy
Shaped ’70s Climbing

Story by David Smart

Changing Corners
of The Nose, 1.5-day
ascent in 1973

T
welve-year-old Henry Barber loved baseball so much that
he would pedal his single-speed bike 16 kilometres rather than
miss a little league team practice. He wasn’t a star player, but
he had been bullied at school and craved an atmosphere where
Sloth at rules and skill, rather than cheating and brute force, were the
the Roches
Staffordshire, order of the day. Predictably, the discovery that some kids were given
U.K., in 1973 better positions in the team simply because their parents complained
to the coaches soured his view of the game. Less predictably, instead
of conforming to the sordid ways of the world, Henry concluded that
without rules, any game, even baseball, was meaningless, and he quit
and held out for a more worthy pursuit.
Barber, born in 1953 in Boston, was the son of a banker who taught
him that right and wrong were a matter of survival as well as morals.
“The drawer will balance or it won’t,” recalls Barber. “If it’s off by a penny,
that’s wrong. In a bank that does a billion dollars worth of business,
that can represent a lot of money. It’s kind of the same when you’re
doing a cutting-edge route.Morally and ethically, if you start cheating,
something that seems quite innocuous could be dangerous.” Although
now Barber can joke about his obsession with style and climbing ethics,
he also says, that when it came down to it, back in his heyday in the
1970s, “I never really wavered.”
Photos Henry C. Barber/Mountain Ventures Collection

A natural hard-worker, as a schoolboy, Barber delivered papers, took

odd jobs. He was also a part-time school janitor and collected and
sold berries. When he started climbing, he worked part time at the
Wellesley Mountain Shop. The taste for hard work carried through to
his first years of international travel, which is how he managed to visit
so many climbing areas.
Coming down from backpacking trips at 14, the sight of climbers
near Cannon Mountain in New Hampshire sparked his curiosity. In
1968, he went to the Ashcrofters, an Aspen backpacking and mountain-
eering school where Walter Bonatti and Hermann Buhl were nightly
campfire reading. It was tough, and some kids hated it, but Henry
didn’t mind silly survival rituals, like bathing in frigid streams, and fell

20
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 feature
in love with climbing with the conviction that this was the thing had
had been waiting for, the thing he would be good at. He returned as an
instructor, at Skyline Ranch and their subsequent location, the Skyline
Mountaineering School in Telluride, Colo., even though he was so
young that he was arrested as a runaway in the Boulder bus station. His
attempt to deflect the cops’ attention to the love-in a neighbouring park
at Canyon and Broadway though was to no avail.
Back home, a climbing day with the Appalachian Mountain Club
in April 1969 only fanned the flames. “I didn’t mind learning from a
bunch of old fuddy-duddies from the Appalachian Mountain Club,”
Barber said, “I liked hanging with older people.” He began to frequent
the traprock cliffs of Connecticut, the Quincy Quarry near Boston,
the granite of New Hampshire and also the Shawangunks, the centre
of east coast hard climbing. Climbing with the Appalachian Mountain
Club, Barber recalls, “was very restrictive, very safety conscious, so “it
took me a long time to climb my first 5.10,” an unexpected send of Final
Exam on Castle Rock in Boulder Canyon, (now graded 5.11) Colorado.
In 1972, Barber made his first trip to Yosemite and climbed New
Dimensions 5.11. Barber thought that the climb was more like an east
coast 5.10 and that many valley 5.10s seemed like east coast 5.9s. Valley
regulars Jim Bridwell and Mark Klemens looked after the 18-year-old
New Englander and suggested that he tie directly into his swami belt
instead of using a carabiner, but they were wary that he may possibly
have been over-confident.
By 1972 and ’73, Barber was spending most of his climbing time in
the Shawangunks with John Stannard, the current hardest climber of
the area. “We knocked off one free ascent after another,” he says. “I took FFA of The
over three hundred falls in a one-year period.” He also roped up with Reaper in 1975 at
insatiable and talented young climbers Jim Donini, John Bragg and Mount Arapiles
Steve Wunsch. Even this legendary crew, however, couldn’t keep up with
Barber on all the climbing he craved, so he started soloing. He would solo
in the morning, meet his friends for a day of hard routes and then solo
more when they were exhausted. If it rained, he soloed anyway.
Barber’s concept of soloing went beyond the mere fact of being un-
roped. “Soloing,” says Barber, “is solitary climbing.” One day, a hiker
watched him solo Double Clutch 5.10. Afterward, he was discussing
soloing M.F. 5.9 with Steve Wunsch, they heard the hiker, who had
decided to do some of his own soloing, fall to his death. “He was in a
pool of blood,” Barber says, “choking on his tongue. I pulled it out and
held his jaw open without lifting his head. He had some convulsions,
then he died. He was stupid, but I thought, soloing is solo, it’s alone,
don’t do it around people.”
In 1973, he made his second visit to Yosemite. On May 25, he climbed
Nabisco Wall 5.11, New Dimensions 5.11, and onsight free-soloed
Midterm 5.10. On May 27, he free-soloed the flaring, smooth offwidth
of Ahab 5.10. These link ups and on-sight free solos were preparation
for his boldest stroke yet. On May 29, he made history with the first
free solo ascent on-sight of the 1,500-foot crack line of the Steck-
Salathe 5.10b in just 2.5 hours. He brought only his chalk bag clipped to
his swami belt. Steve Wunsch was the only climber who knew he was
up there. It was the first time anyone had free-soloed a Valley big wall.
Attitudes toward what was possible shifted.
On May 31, Barber made the onsight, no falls, first free ascent of
Butterballs 5.11c. Four days later, with Australian climber Keith Bell,
he climbed the Nose of El Capitan in a day and a half. It was a remark-
able week in Yosemite, by any measure, and especially for an outsider.
Barber’s relationship to the Valley regulars changed afterward that, in
his words, because “either they were jealous, or I was an asshole.”
In September 1973, Barber visited England, hungry to sample the rock FFA of Squeakea
in a place where tradition was deeply rooted. He loved the difficult climb- sy
at Mount Arapile
s
ing made even harder by a lack of protection and staunch ethics, from
Wales to Midlands Gritstone. He would return many times, making

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21
feature
es, 1975: my girlfriend and still clos
“Camp in Arapiles called The Pin that logged all the epic air time trying to follow;
n
Kim; shirtless guy is Ray Lassma e friend. This was Easter weekend and they all
red hat guy Norm Booth, still
took great pleasure in hiding my
a clos
Easter egg up 40 feet in one of
the trees.”
hard first free ascents of notable Welsh routes like Left-hand Red Wall
at Gogarth E3 5c and later Déjà Vu E4 5c or 6a in The Great Zawn at
Bosigran on all nuts, although the route was later equipped with pitons.
He returned to the U.S. with the nickname Hot Henry, bestowed upon
him by the editor of Mountain magazine, Ken Wilson.
At 19, Barber was a big deal in the Gunks, one of America’s great
rock-climbing areas. While soloing became an increasingly private
affair, roped climbing had become an intensely social pursuit. “We
were yo-yoing the hell out of stuff in the Gunks,” says Barber of their
method of lowering off from their highpoint to the belay or the ground,
but leaving the rope clipped in to the last piece of gear, “but we didn’t
hang around and try the moves…when you’re with friends, one person
tries harder, using a higher hold, puts gear in, making incremental
progress.” His hardest route of the time was the first free ascent of
Yellow Crack, a steep 5.11c R that’s still a formidable tick. There was
almost unlimited potential. On a single day, he and Stannard made first
free ascents of three different routes.
In September 1973, he dropped out of Babson Business College, but
returned in January 1975. When he shared his frustration with the lax
rules about smoking in class and qualifying for courses, a dean told him
he should quit, and in February, he dropped out. His father told him
that he now had to pay his own way through college and asked him
what he was going to do next.
“I told him I’m going to start my own company, [Mountain
Ventures, which he still runs] and in three weeks, I’m going on a
climbing trip to Australia.”
In the 41 out of his 42 days in Australia Barber climbed, he did
100 routes, including 67 first or first free ascents and he pushed the level
of free climbing from 21 (5.11c) to almost 25 (5.12b). He also attracted more
attention than he ever had before. After an early morning solo of Eurydice
at Arapiles, he went back to his camp and heard climbers gossiping about
the climb outside his tent. Crowds gathered to watch him climb.
He resolved that merely yoyoing a route wouldn’t withstand this scru-
tiny. His style had to be perfect. “I completely changed my style because
people weren’t able to follow the routes,” says Barber, who wanted to
show that, for him, climbing was about enjoying and protecting nature
with the smallest possible number of technological aids. He started
pulling down the rope after each attempt that ended in a fall or taking
tension, basically inventing what became known as redpoint climbing.
22 gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023
He started pulling
down the rope
after each attempt
that ended in a fall,
basically inventing
e friend today
what became known
as redpoint climbing.
“People were pointing me at ridiculous routes, and although I failed
on a couple, I accomplished most of them,” Barber said. There were
epics that made Barber a legend. On the first free ascent of Kama
Sutra, he had to undo the belay after his second fell. Barber then down
climbed with his second Ray Lassman hanging a full rope length below
from his swami until two climbers made a human pyramid at the
bottom of the route to intercept and untie the free hanging climber.
Because of the Kama Sutra epic no one would follow him on the first
free ascent of Thunder Crack, so he kicked out his first gear place-
ment and soloed it. He eliminated the aid to the last bolt on Manic
Depressive at Bundaleer, 5.12b a route so difficult that there is now a
bar stool permanently bolted in place to make the first moves easier.
In 1975, at the age of 22, Barber, who had already travelled the world
climbing by hitchhiking and flying, bought his first car and started rep-
ping for Chouinard Equipment, which became Patagonia, a position
he maintained for 18 years, later becoming director of North American
wholesale. That year in Yosemite, Barber made the first ascent of Fish
Crack, a coveted Yosemite project. On his first try, Henry grabbed the
final chicken head hold, slipped and fell 30 feet. It was a misty day, and
the rock was damp. Valley climbers tried it the next day and couldn’t
get to Barber’s last piece. He came back the day after their attempt and
sent the route, the Valley’s first 5.12.
A few days later, Valley local Ron Kauk stopped his car borrowed
from Mike Graham when he saw Barber and Wunsch on The Cookie.
Unknown to Barber, Kauk had his eye on the project. “Kauk jumped
out,” says Barber, “but he didn’t have the car in park and it rolled down-
hill until the passenger door pronged on a rock. He was pissed and
Photos Henry C. Barber/Mountain Ventures Collection
shouted, ‘You come down here right now, that’s my route!’ Wunsch
giggled and told him to come up and get us. So Kauk came up, and the
three of us did the first ascent of Hardd,”[pronounced “hearth,” Welsh
for “beautiful”].
The secret to Barber’s travel schedule was that he invested money
in U.S. treasury bills, and twice a year, the interest provided him with
enough money for a plane ticket, which he promptly used to travel to
new areas.
In 1976 alone, he climbed on Ben Nevis in Scotland, the Calanques
and Saint-Jeannet in the south of France and the Dolomites. His
partner in the Dolomites told him the legend of Austrian soloist and
climbing philosopher Paul Preuss, who eschewed pitons on his solo
 first ascents of some of the Alps’ hardest climbs in the early years of the
20th century. Barber was deeply affected by the purity of his approach,
which he would later employ in the high mountains of the USSR. FSOS of The
A life-changing visit to the sandstone towers of the Elbsandsteingebirge Strand when
filmed for
along the Elbe River, in what was then East Germany, followed. Barber ABC-TV 1976
prided himself for his simple approach to climbing, but “when I got to the
Elbsandsteingebirge,” he recalls, “it was more than I could ever imagine.”
Protection was only knotted slings, and, as Barber observed, “You can’t
just tie knots in ahead of time. Some were needed loose for threads or
to tie in a different-sized knot. Most of the hard climbs had been done
barefoot. When I went back in 1979,” he recalls, “they disallowed chalk.”
Local Bernd Arnold had established most of hardest routes, deploying
wild gymnastic movements practised on his bouldering wall, and an
aggressive, bold approach that left Barber shaking his head.
Some climbers may have been intimidated, but Barber loved it.
Locals, in turn, were impressed by his ascent of the Westpfeiler 5.11c
on the Torstein, and an onsight solo in a light rain of Zehn 5.10d, on
the Muererturm. His goal was to scope out the runouts on Lineal,
where Bernd Arnold had taken a 70-foot fall while working on the
first ascent, the biggest in a career of massive whippers. Barber’s second
ascent of Lineal was the high point of his trip. Photos of Barber and
Elbesandsteingebirge hotshot Bernd Arnold climbing smooth cracks
and corners in bare feet with only slings for protection caught the
attention of Western-centric climbers on the other side of the Iron
Curtain. Barber revelled in the fact that few had suspected that the
game was being played at such a rarified level in an area most western
climbers had ever even heard of.
After East Germany, Barber spent 10 days back in the U.S. before
debuting on network television with an ABC sports program in 1976
about his adventures on U.K. sea cliffs, along with British climbers Pete
Livesey and Al Harris. Livesey’s voiceover as he and Barber attempt the
first free ascent of The Dream/Liberator at Bosigran, reveals that, even
in the U.K., Barber was the climber to beat. “I’m not going to tell him
where the protection is,” says Livesey. “We’d like him to have difficulty on
it,” and if he frees the route, “he’s beaten me.” Barber admits that Livesey
was “probably bummed out,” when he seconded the crux free. By contrast, Free-s
o
in a voiceover as he solos the classic moderate route A Dream of White Torre D loing
Vajolet elago,
Horses, Barber speaks of climbing as a more beautiful form of walking in a pe Towers,
with an ease and joy matched by his fluidity and light footwork. When he storm nding
in 1976
says it’s all about the flow, it looks like he knows what he’s talking about.
There’s a playfulness in his effortless climbing.
Another reminder of the hazards of company while free soloing
came during the filming of Barber’s solo of the vertical crack line
of The Strand for the ABC Sports show. The steep, 49-metre crack
Photo Edgar Boyles, Steve Wunsch, Henry C. Barber/Mountain Ventures Collection

had only been climbed a few times and loose rock remained in place,
partly because it was seldom climbed. Harris and other locals trusted
Henry’s ability, but were noticeably silent on the morning of the climb.
His Australian girlfriend watched from the base. Henry was climbing
smoothly and concentrating deeply when, partway up, a cameraman
asked him to repeat a move. The request, said Barber, completely
changed the psychological atmosphere. “The state of physical harmony,”
he said, “gave way to a mind-battle.” It was a moment he recalled when
he watched Alex Honnold climbing in front of the camera in Free Solo.
On another trip Barber realized that the company of other competent
climbers could be enjoyable while free soloing, but it could also be dan-
gerous. At Tremadog in Wales, while soloing with Al Harris and Paul
Trower, he was alarmed to notice nearby vines tearing off the cliff at high
speed. Trower had fallen and grabbed the vines to break his fall. Barber
looked down to see Harris, who took a drag on his cigarette and com-
mented, as if it happened every day, “Henry, can you come down? Paul’s The Westpfeiler
on the Torstein,
just gone a long way.” Trower was miraculously alive upside down in Dresden
amongst the boulders after falling over 70 feet and had to be hospitalized.

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23
 Outer
Limits,
Yosemite
1977

ter
Deep wa
in
soloing , 2018
e r mu d a
B

In August 1977, Barber got back to the

…he made history with the first free-solo
ascent of the 1,500-foot crack line of the
Steck-Salathe in just 2.5 hours. He brought
only his chalk bag clipped to his swami belt.
States, and launched a frenetic, multi-day,
cross-country odyssey. He started with the
first free ascent of Dean’s Day Off, a 5.12b
R near Aspen, barefoot. It was the finest
of a number of 5.12s he climbed in the area,
and according to Barber, “the culmination of
everything I had learned as a rock climber.”
“Then,” he said, “I went crazy.”
On an 11-day trip, he soloed the North Face
of Capital Peak in 1.25 hours then hiked out,

Photos Ruedi Homberger, Grant Farquhar, Henry C. Barber/Mountain Ventures Collection

drove to Colorado National Monument for a
first ascent of Summerhill. The next day, he
dropped in on Little Cottonwood Canyon in
Utah. They drove up to City of Rocks where he
soloed another 5.10 first ascent. In the Tetons,
his partner took a rest day while Barber soloed
Symmetry Spire Jensen Ridge Direct on sight,
before heading to the Bighorns, where he
did a couple of new routes, including a route
now called Vagabondage 5.10+ R/X, on gear,
although it now sports 10 bolts. At Devil’s
Tower, he made the first free ascent of Mr.
Clean 5.11a and afterwards free-soloed on sight
Hollywood and Vine 5.10c. He almost made
the first free ascent of Southeast Direct at 5.12,
but “should have stopped and belayed, as all the
nson, with
“At our first bivouac on Mount Joh e, 1979”
belays are hanging and I wanted to stretch the
rd, not a pleasant plac pitch out.” At the Needles in South Dakota,
Yvon Chouina
he made the first ascent of Super Pin 5.10 X,

24 gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023

 feature
and a handful of new routes, including Quartz Jester 5.10+ R/X, then
drove all night to climb at Devil’s Lake, Wisc.
Barber’s rock-climbing career would have been enough to ensure his
place in climbing history, but he simultaneously pursued an almost
equally meteoric career as an ice climber and alpinist. When Barber
took up ice climbing, which was in its early days in New England,
where the hardest eastern ice routes were climbed with 70-cm wooden-
shafted axes and alpine hammers with curved picks. To keep the
challenge high, even on the shorter routes of the east, Barber eschewed
wrist-loops on the second winter ascent of Repentance and the first
ascents of the Barber-Cilley on Mount Katahdin and the Twenty
Below Zero Gully on Lake Willoughby. They were impressive climbs
for a climber who said he “didn’t transcend” on ice, and that the best
thing he got out of winter climbing was increased grip strength for
crack climbing.
In 1974, Barber and Chip Lee made the second ascent of Bridalveil
Falls in Colorado climbing without wrist loops and using a frozen
goldline rope. He repeated it several years later without wrist loops
with Jeff Lowe and Mike Weiss for another segment on ABC-TV
American Sportsman.
Also in 1975, Barber attempted the unclimbed East Face of Mount
Johnson in Alaska’s Ruth Gorge with a team Jim McCarthy organized.
He returned with Yvon Chouinard in 1979, climbing 32 pitches but the
face remains unclimbed, even after attempts by, Doug Chabot, alpine
ace Mugs Stump and others.
In 1976, Barber travelled to the USSR to climb in the Alay, Tien Shan
and Caucasus ranges on an exchange between American and Russian
climbers. It was the height of the Cold War, and athletic rivalry and Wadi Rum,
suspicions on display during the Montreal Olympics were at a high Jordan, 2019
point, but the climbers overcame their suspicions and Barber even
started a relationship with a Russian woman. Inspired by the example
of the pioneer light-and-fast alpine climber Paul Preuss, he proposed
to solo the first ascent of a 3,000-foot-long ice route on Korea Peak. a real progression. The gear is all better, and on super-light
He planned to make the ascent in about four hours. His hosts, who alpine routes people are taking less.”
thought the route would take four days, were incredulous. Climbing Barber set a frenetic pace for himself over seven years,
mostly in the little circle of light of his headlamp, in which, as Barber he believes that energy begets energy. You are kind of self-
put it, “the void below didn’t exist,” armed with an alpine hammer and fuelling when you are motivated to always pursue some-
a straight-shafted ice axe, Barber made the climb in his predicted time. thing new. Climbing many different techniques and types
In 1977, Barber teamed up with fellow New Englander Rob Taylor of rock from sandstone and limestone pockets to granite
to make the first ascent of the 300-metre waterfall of Vettifossen in slabs and cracks was one way he was able to climb 350 days
Norway, one of the longest waterfall climbs in the world at the time. a year and not be injured. Bold climbing and soloing made
In 1978, the pair made the second ascent of the Diamond Couloir on him more thoughtful and creative about placing gear and
Mount Kenya, just 48 hours after getting off the plane in Nairobi. They finding places to rest. Bottom line you have to have convic-
set a speed record on the route. “We were really stupid,” says Barber, tion in yourself that can’t be accomplished by only follow-
“and had to bivouac on the back side of Nelion. We had massive head- ing the trends and what the herd is doing.
aches and were dangerously close to developing edema.” “I was anchored in my style, not someone else’s style,”
On the Breach Wall on Kilimanjaro in 1978, Taylor fell on the first says Barber. “My purpose wasn’t to be dangerous, but to
pitch of the crux icefall high on the route and severely injured his leg. do lines I liked using all that I had learned from history
Barber rescued him off the wall and circumnavigated the mountain to and climbing on many kinds of stone employing all my
the park gate, where, after 30 hours of continuous effort, he discovered skills and mind control learned soloing and climbing every
he had trench foot. He recruited Norwegian climbers who organized different kind of technique. I basically believe that anybody
local porters to go back and rescue Taylor from the moraine. can do anything. That’s why I was able to flourish. I built
In 1979, Barber visited Frankenjura, Germany where he made a film on my style and followed my path as far as I could. It’s not
with Kurt Albert about redpointing, a technique he had already been what I did, it’s how I did it.” And his style was to use as
practising since his visit to Australia in 1975, and the crags of Provence, little technology as he could, carefully observing the rock
which weren’t yet hot beds of global climbing. and preserving the natural setting. “It was never just about
Photo Todd & Donette Swain

When sport climbing came into being in the late ’70s and early ’80s,
Barber was critical, but he has since moderated his opinion. “I didn’t
like the ’80s,” he says, “pinkpointing, rap bolting and so on. He believed
in going ground up in one go, using head, tenacity, creativity and expe-
rience to push through on sight. But what’s come out of it is climbers
doing incredible trad routes and routes on huge walls and mountains,
climbing fast,” says Barber, “but about the environment,
how far I could go with minimal gear. Ultimately, simpler
climbing meant more freedom and creativity. The most
important thing, where you learn the most, was to climb in
the style of the area and learn from the climbers who came
before you.”—DS

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25
 Photo Courtesy Didier Berthod

26 gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023


Returns from the Monastery
Story by Dave Barnes
D idier Berthod is a climber that sits outside the box—both
in his life story and style of climbing. Being an ordained Catholic
priest and a crack climber of the highest order, I was honoured when
he accepted my invitation to share his story. Some background: I have
walked a similar path to Berthod. I have had an interrupted climbing
journey, spending several years in religious life. I smile looking back
at myself heading to 6 a.m. Mass, sleepy-eyed and mumbling out the
Benedictus in morning prayer. When it came time for spiritual reading,
I would sneak a climbing guide out of my pocket and dream of verti-
cal places other than heaven. Mea culpa. Sharing conversation with
Berthod, he was a more serious squirrel than me—he was a solid monk.
Berthod was born and raised in Switzerland. An enthusiastic kid,
he was popular with his peers and gifted, finding little difficulty in
anything he was presented with at school, in sport, or at work. He
did suffer melancholy, which baffled him, but adding to his teenage
angst he had a mind that strived to explore philosophical questions
that would largely baffle his acquaintances. Deep-thinker Berthod was
often alone in his thoughts. Saying that, he was the one who would
laugh the loudest at home.
Berthod’s vertical journey began as a 13-year-old, when he and his lit-
tle brother attended an alpinism camp in the mountains near his home.
The camp was alpinism-oriented, but rock climbing was a principal
learning. Young Berthod was hooked and after the camp he worked in
a mountain hut for two weeks. Capitalizing on his earnings he bought
a rope and a handful of quickdraws. With crags near his family’s home,
Berthod was spoilt in his first climbing forays and fell in love with rock
climbing rather than alpinism. The song that cliffs resonate in the con-
templative mind of Berthod is not so different to either yours or mine.
“One thing I really love about climbing is the fact that you’re playing
outside on very amazing walls located in wild places,” says Berthod.
“It’s so different from soccer, or most other sports, where you’re sweating
your activity in flat, empirical structured areas. Climbing is different;
feature
the field is what nature presents and no rock is the same. Moving over
stone in the vertical world remains for me something special.”
Berthod has a buzz about him. He could never quite work out how
to contain it and had difficulty expressing himself at times. Climbing
provided a place to direct and exert that energy. Climbing became like
a best friend and offered him a space to define himself. His own words
say this best:
“As a young man through climbing, I was able to give the best of
myself, and living in the deepness I always wanted to live in. A world of
loyalty, trueness, boldness, heroism. To live an experience, I was kind
of like looking for it unconsciously.”
In these adolescent years, Berthod developed his style at places like
Ceus in France, Siurana in Spain, and he spent quality time at Ticino,
in Switzerland. He was seeking hard challenges vicariously. A sign of
these times is a route he established in 2002, a now-iconic Swiss climb
near his home, la Cabane au Canada 5.14c. It could be said that the
reference to Canada was destiny (Berthod now lives there). The reality
is that he named it as the area looks like Canada, with its lakes, forests
and mountains. The route’s name was also in memory of his grandma
who passed away at this time. She used to sing a song called Ma Cabane
au Canada.
Berthod also embarked to plunder the treasures of the United States
setting his compass for the splitter cracks of Indian Creek (his favou-
rite American area) and the big wall awe of El Capitan. He tried unsuc-
cessfully to free the Salathe in 2002 and in his words, “I got my ass
kicked!” He was just stoked to top out on El Capitan. That said, he did
climb numerous classic single-pitch cracks, such as Separate Reality
5.12a, Tales of Power 5.12b, Phoenix 5.13a and Cosmic Debris 5.13b.
Berthod returned to Europe and immersed himself in climbing:
the clean granite at Petit Clocher du Portalet, in the Swiss Alps. The
place has a strong resonance for Berthod as he opened numerous new
routes. One being the 5.13a first pitch of Histoire sans Fin with Francois
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27
feature

Mathey. The length of the eight-pitch climb

wasn’t freed until Sebastien Berth and Siebe
Vanhee completed it in 2021. That Berthod
was working climbs like this years earlier show
his eye for a line. The climb has been described
as, “the best granite multipitch of the grade in
Europe,” a big claim that has not been refuted.
I reached out to Fred Moix who climbed regu-
larly with Berthod in those days.
“Berthod was, and is, a passionate and
strong-willed climber when we are together.
More importantly he is a loyal and sincere
friend of more than 20 years. I can guarantee
he is a beautiful soul that tries to spread good-
ness around him,” said Moix.
Berthod was ninja-like learning to move his
body over ever-increasing difficult terrain, and
the lure of clean cracks cleansed his soul. Places
like Valle dell’Orco in in the north of Italy,
were magical for Berthod. Here, in 2003, at 23
years old, Berthod sent the first free ascent of
Greenspit 5.13d. The ascent brought him imme-
diate attention. Originally the climb had bolts,
but Berthod sought a pure style and chopped
them off on the first day, pinkpointing with gear
in place. He returned two years later and led it
again placing the gear. Respect for him blos-
somed on both sides of the Atlantic.
Berthod found North America compelling
with its amazing crack lines and the free-
style culture of the community. He returned

“I LITERALLY
COLLAPSED. I
FELT SO UNABLE,
SO YOUNG AND
FRAGILE, SO LOST”
in 2004, spending a month in Yosemite
then following the call of those splitters at
Indian Creek, returning again in 2005, with
visits to Zion and Squamish. Through each
trip, his followers grew—Berthod, the Jesus
of jamming. Big wall climber Pete Zabrok
Photos Courtesy Didier Berthod

recalls seeing him on the big stone from an

adjacent climb.
Zabrok said, “I remember looking down and
watching Berthod on the Monster Offwidth

28 gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023

on Freerider 5.13a. He was looking casual and doing it easy. Every now
and then he would lock his calves into the crack, lean out and chalk
up, then get back in the crack and continue cruising with no apparent
effort. It was amazing to watch.”
And people were watching.
In 2005 in Squamish, Berthod focused on Cobra Crack, and this
climb was to seal Berthod as a rock god. Cobra Crack takes its name
from a spine of rock that looks like a raring snake, the climb itself is
20 metres of overhanging cheese-grating granite with a crack so steep
and delicate it will strike you down at any sign of weakness. Berthod was
feeling control. He had just met his girlfriend and the Cobra crusade was
progressing. Peter Mortimer had heard of Berthod’s siege of the line and
came to film it for his First Ascent project. Zabrok gave me a hilarious
anecdote of how that film has impacted his own climbing life.
He said, “I remember being wrapped up in his climb, even disrupt-
ing the filming by yelling encouragement to him from behind the lens.
To this day people I don’t know recognize my voice at the gym and
scream at me to “gas it,” as I’m plodding up some easy climb. Berthod
has always been one of the smoothest, most inspiring crack climbers
I’ve seen.”
It was going to impact Berthod’s life, too.
Mortimer captured Berthod doing a one finger mono, on a thin steep
crack. To the viewer, it looks like he is giving it the bird, but little did
he know that soon the Cobra and life at large was about to strike. At
the time of filming Berthod did not pull off the ascent. His idea was to
come back the next year to finish it but in February 2006, he learnt that
his girlfriend was pregnant. He was penniless, young, and confused.
“I literally collapsed. I felt so unable, so young and fragile, so lost,” said
Berthod. “It was hard enough surviving on my own means. Adding a
new being I was supposed to raise seemed beyond me. I was also feeling
shame. I was a good Catholic; I had broken the tenants of my Church of

sex before marriage. I had burdened another.”

The film took on added purpose. Berthod
figured that the film would raise his profile
and attract sponsors, so he could support
his girlfriend. He invested everything he had
into Cobra Crack. In June he returned to
finish the film with Zabrok and that’s when
he injured his knee (ligament damage) in the
campground. He was torn emotionally and
physically. Something else happened. He had
a personal encounter with his god, Berthod
calls it a mystical experience.
“Both events happened on the same day, first
my knee and an hour later the mystical experi-
ence,” Berthod shared with me. “It was in the
evening. I had a broadening of consciousness
and answers to my deepest questions. It hap-
pened in a second, but it changed everything.”
Berthod was convinced he was being called
by god, but for his girlfriend, she was dev-
astated. He left Squamish and headed to a
Catholic monastery in Switzerland. She was
left holding the baby.
Leaving the world and living a consecrated

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29
BERTHOD IS STILL WORKING HIMSELF
OUT, IT’S A BIG SHIFT FROM BEING A
HOLY MONK TO WHERE HE IS TODAY

Photos Courtesy Didier Berthod

30
gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023
 feature

religious life of poverty, chastity and obedi-

ence gave Berthod stable ground. This was
filled with community prayer three times a day,
study, service to society and ordination as a
priest. Berthod found peace in this immersive
13-year experience. Did he think of climbing
in this time?
“I had no desire at all. Climbing was my past,
and Christ was my present.”
Toward the end of his 13 years in religious
life, Berthod felt a shift in his theology moving
from a fundamentalist faith to a more pro-
gressive Christianity. It was a gradual process.
First, he left the monastery in 2019, continuing
as a priest in French and Swiss parishes. His
key goal was reunifying his life.
“When I entered the monastery I left behind
everything and everybody, especially my preg-
nant girlfriend. As soon as I left the monastery,
I wanted to reunify as much as it was pos-
sible. I contacted my ex-girlfriend, sharing my
shame of abandoning her and that I’d be grate-
ful to see her again and talk. I also told her that
I’d love to see my daughter, but of course only
if she wanted to see me. The answer came only
two years later. I also returned to my family,
and my friends. I started climbing again.”
In 2021 his studies of Christian origins
led him to believe that Jesus probably never
existed, hence his faith was not aligned with
the Church. Berthod left the priesthood. Most
importantly, he had the chance to move to
Canada to see his daughter for the first time.
Against all odds he reconciled with his girl-
friend. He shared, “We fell back in love and
decided to give it another go. I moved here in
2022.” He is now building a relationship with
his daughter.
In July 2023, Berthod secured his comeback
with the first ascent of Crack of Destiny 5.14b
in Squamish making it one of the most dif-
ficult cracks in North America. He spent
39 days over two seasons sieging the route He now knows that he doesn’t seek to master the location is beautiful. But there are so many
and was appreciative of the friends and com- a climb but to learn wisdom from it. He does things I’d like to climb, and not only cracks.
munity that have supported him. The name not overlook people; he welcomes them and I’ve no idea what my future will be.”
of the climb has layered meaning. Reading the enjoys listening to their stories and stoke. He Berthod is still working himself out, it’s a
passage of his climbing life in this profile you also has goals. big shift from being a holy monk to where he is
can see why. He said to me, “There is a lot of “Oh, I’d love to keep climbing hard splitter today. We do know this. Berthod has climbed
meaning in this name but one of them is to crack. I want to check Mason Earl’s Stranger lines that have shaped his inner life and outer
stress my relationship with crack climbing. In Than Fiction 5.14- in Moab.” I shared that athleticism, but on both sides of that line,
a way it was like, she was waiting for me.” He with Mason who was quick to reply, “I think Berthod has found the greatest of all: that is
emphasised to me that it is his most significant he would love it!” to walk the line of humility and gratitude and
achievement: “No hesitation.” Berthod continued, “I’d be pleased to get being thankful for the people he shares this
Today you will find a happy man when meet- back on El Cap and Salathe plus Cobra journey with.
ing Berthod. He is a contemplative climber in Crack of course. There’s also Indian Creek, the David Barnes is a writer and
action and has gained some welcome insights. climbing community is so special there, and climber based in Australia.

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31
feature

CELEBRATING
ICE CLIMBING
FESTIVALS

32 gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023

Opposite: Final
competition at
Festiglace
Right: Stas Beskin
on Hivenator,
Festiglace, 2023
DON’T MISS
THESE THREE
EVENTS THIS
S E AS O N
Story and photos by Tim Banfield
For any fervent ice climber, the rhyth-
mic sounds of axes digging into frozen
waterfalls and the soft crunch of crampons
on cold ice are sounds synonymous with
adventure. As the ice climbing community
grows, so does the myriad of festivals cel-
ebrating this chilly and challenging sport.
For the 2023/2024 season, three festivals,
in particular, stand out above the rest:
Festiglace in Pont-Rouge, Que.; the Ouray
Icefest in Ouray, Colo.; and the Michigan
Ice Climbing Festival in Munising, Mich.
Here’s why these events should be at the top
of every ice climber’s list.
Festiglace,
P O N T R O U G E , Q U E B EC
The Canadian Charm
Nestled on the outskirts of historic Quebec City, Festiglace is more than just an ice climbing
festival; it’s a fusion of French-Canadian culture and climbing prowess. Quebec’s winter won-
derland provides an enchanting backdrop with its cobblestone streets, classic French bakeries
and an air tinged with the anticipation of adventurers.
The Climbing
With routes ranging from beginner-friendly ice flows to overhanging mixed climbs, Festiglace
offers a playground for climbers of all levels. The mixed climbing and steep pillars of ice are
what set Pont Rouge apart from many other locations. The community of the event is one of the
best, and the climbing competition is one of the more unique. On Saturday, there is the enduro
competition, where competitors try to climb as much as possible in a set time. Sunday is the
difficulty competition where route developers create a mind-blowing line of horizontal roofs
through frozen daggers that will impress the competitors and spectators alike.
Events to Look Out For
The vendor village located amongst the climbing at the base of the routes is one of the main
draws to the festival. Here you can see and demo new equipment from many festival sponsors.
The climbing clinics, led by seasoned pros, are an excellent opportunity for participants to hone
their skills or venture into mixed climbing. With some of the best ice and mixed climbers in
the world as your instructors, you are bound to leave the festival with new skills you can apply
in the real world.
gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023
33
feature

Right: Logan Tyler,

Ouray 2023

Below: Ouray, Colo.

Opposite top: Lindsay

Hastings, Ouray 2023

Opposite bottom:
Ouray crowds

Opposite far right:

Micah Stephens
on No Doubt Stout,
Ouray Ice Park

Ouray Ice Festival,

C O LO R A D O
A High-Altitude Adventure
The Ouray Ice Festival, held in the eponymous Ouray Ice Park, sits at an altitude that guaran-
tees consistent ice conditions. Surrounded by the San Juan Mountains, this picturesque small
town transforms into the world’s ice-climbing capital during the festival.

The Climbing
With over 200 named ice and mixed climbs, Ouray offers one of the most expansive climbing
parks globally. It’s a place where climbers can find themselves suspended over the Uncompahgre
Gorge’s dramatic drop or delicately navigating a mixed route’s rocky start. There are climbs for
every level, and Ice Park is beginner-friendly, with numerous options to set up a top rope. A
short walk from town, the Ice Park offers unprecedented ease of access to go ice climbing.

Events to Look Out For

The gear expo is a highlight, with the latest ice climbing gadgets on display and ready for trial.
Almost every brand that makes gear for ice climbing shows up to the Ouray Ice Fest. The park
also hosts elite climber demonstrations, illuminating attendees with techniques and tricks of
the trade. Don’t miss the climbing competitions. The difficulty competition is always entertain-
ing, with competitors climbing a natural mixed line that leads into a wooden structure craned
into location every year strictly for the event. World-class local climbers often create the final
route. In 2024 you can expect a few changes to the competition that will pique spectator’s inter-
est, along with some speakers that have not presented at the festival before.

34 gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023

gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023
35
Munising
Ice Climbing Festival,
MICHIGAN
The Great Lakes Showcase
Positioned on Lake Superior’s shores, Munising provides a unique
blend of lake-effect snow and ice. The raw, untamed beauty of the
Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore provides a spectacular canvas for
climbers to etch their tales on. Ice climbing above Lake Superior is one
of the most unique ice climbing experiences.

The Climbing
The fest is renowned for its accessibility to beginner climbers. There are
numerous options for setting up a top rope climb. For the more adven-
turous, you can find unique ice routes rising above the lake shaped
by the wind into wild medusas of ice. From ice curtains draping over
sandstone cliffs to challenging routes like HMR rising out of the lake,
Munising is a testament to the diversity of ice formations.

Events to Look Out For

The festival is one of the best for the beginner ice climber with many
intros to ice climbing possibilities. The community at the festival is
outstanding, with several large American cities just within driving
distance. The festival prides itself on welcoming everyone and inspiring
new winter ice experiences to be remembered. The sense of community
is palpable in Munising, with post-climb activities, story-sharing and a
spirit of camaraderie permeating every event.

36 gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023

 feature

W H Y T H E S E T H R E E?
Diversity in Terrain
Together, these festivals showcase the diversity of North America’s ice-climbing landscapes.
From the river valleys of Quebec, the high-altitude canyons of Colorado, to the lake shores of
Michigan, climbers can get a taste of the varying ice climbing possibilities across North America.

Cultural Experiences
Beyond the climbs, each festival is a cultural immersion. Quebec’s European allure, Ouray’s
high-mountain town charm, and Munising’s Great Lakes spirit provide unique experiences that
enrich every climber’s journey.

Community and Education

All three festivals emphasize community building and education. They’re not just gather-
ings of individuals with shared interests but hubs of knowledge exchange, camaraderie and
collective growth.

As the cold months of the coming winter beckon, ice climbers worldwide should consider these
festivals as prime destinations. Whether you’re a seasoned pro, an amateur looking to refine
your skills, or a spectator drawn to the beauty and drama of ice climbing, Festiglace, Ouray and
Munising promise adventures and memories that will last a lifetime.
Tim Banfield is a regular contributor of stories and photos to Gripped.

Opposite left: Quentin Right: The Ouray

Roberts on Lion comp wall
Queen, Michigan
Below: Ouray
Above: HMR Area Ice Festival
speakers
Opposite bottom:
Roberts on Dry Hose,
Michigan

gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023

37
 Story and photos by Massimo Cappuccio
Malta A climbing trip to Europe’s most-southern islands always promises adventures, especially
if your destination is Malta and Gozo, in the heart of the Mediterranean. This is one of the best

and Gozo exotic locations to visit for a winter getaway.

The Maltese archipelago is south of Sicily in the Mare Nostrum, a series of rocky islands with
spectacular formations. There are dozens of crags on Malta and Gozo, with over 1,500 routes
Climbing in a listed in the guidebooks. The split is around 30 per cent of climbs on Gozo and the rest are on
Malta. There are steep, short single-pitch climbs, and long multi-pitch routes. Gozo has a good
Mediterranean selection of boulders, while both islands have several deep-water soloing locations. The climbs
are found in caves, above the sea, along ridges and on random cliffs. Despite being so popular,
Paradise few routes are polished, and most are well-protected. Thanks to their location, the climate is
near-perfect in December and January.
Nearly half a million people live on Malta and Gozo, which has led to the boom of urban

38 gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023

 area profile

Stephen Farrugia Miura Hawkin on

on Tufa Taghna Lkoll El Espolon Pol 7a+,
7b+, Garden of Eden Red Wall, Malta
Sector, Malta

areas, but the smaller islands of Cominotto

and Comino have few people living on them,
which makes them perfect for rest-day vis-
its. The port of Valletta, where you arrive,
gives impressive views of old fortifications and
Baroque churches. Malta has been a cross-
roads of cultures throughout history, with
each generation leaving traces of their time
there. When not climbing, you can go kayak-
ing along the coast on crystal clear water or try
the developed mountain biking trails.
Climbing started in Gozo and Malta back
in the 1960s by the British Royal Air Force,

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39
 GRADE
CONVERSIONS
Yosemite
Decimal French
System Grades
3–4 1
5
5.1 2
5.2
5.3 3
5.4 4a
5.5 4b
5.6 4c
5.7 5a

5.8 5b
5.9 5c
5.10a 6a
5.10b 6a+
5.10c 6b
5.10d 6b+
5.11a 6c
6c+
5.11b
5.11c
5.11d 7a
5.12a 7a+
5.12b 7b
5.12c 7b+
5.12d 7c
5.13a 7c+
5.13b 8a
5.13c 8a+
5.13d 8b
5.14a 8b+
5.14b 8c
5.14c 8c+
5.14d 9a
5.15a 9a+
5.15b 9b
5.15c 9b+

which led to several bold trad routes. In the 1980s, climbers from
France and Spain began to visit, which led to world-class sport climbs
being established. Because of the blend of both styles, the islands offer
a mix of trad and sport climbing on solid limestone. Island climbers
have agreed that trad crags will remain bolt free, while sport crags will
be fully bolted. It’s the best of both worlds if you enjoy plugging gear
and clipping quickdraws.
Today, the community of local climbers, which includes the popular
Malta Climbing Club, takes care of crag maintenance and the develop-
ment of new areas. If you’re looking for somewhere that guarantees
nice weather, great climbing and fun tourist attractions, then be sure
to check out Malta and Gozo.
Massimo Cappuccio is a photographer and guidebook
author based in Europe.

40 gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023

 area profile
Malta Gozo Island
Blieqa Sector Garden of Eden Sector Tower of Power
(35°49'03.6" N 14°28'01.3" E) (35°49'15.15 " N 14°27'40.16" E) (36°3'16.64" N 14°18'35.50" E)
Located on the southern coast of Malta, Blieqa has cliffs Another fun crag on the south coast This area has a lot of untouched wilderness,
that overlook the sea, has big sea caves and deep inlets. It’s of Malta. It’s a wide cave below a with tall spires, large boulders and vertical
not far from the famous Blue Grotto. The wall is compact plateau on a tall cliff. It gives stun- walls. The cliffs rise above the seas. The impos-
and vertical with short protruding sections, furrowed by ning views of the sea and is the ing spire of Tower of Power rises from mostly
a few short cracks. It has small holds, resulting in techni- best place to visit at sunset. The flat terrain, making it an eye-cathing feature.
cal climbs, which require good finger strength and good climbs are overhanging and have The climbs are vertical and technical, with the
footwork. The sector is divided into a main wall with solid stalactites. The climbing is very hardest found on a yellow face. Routes listed
eight routes and another with four. Due to the difficulty three-dimensional and require good from right edge to left.
of the routes, this area is not suitable for beginners, and endurance. It’s ideal in December
given the exposure, it’s recommended to come only during and January. Routes are listed from 1. Hippo Tosser 6a+ 30 m
the winter months. The base is comfortable, but you need left to right. 2. Rhino Chaser 6c+ 30 m
to be careful when descending the trail. Routes listed left 3. Sopu Crack 6a+ 30 m
to right with one to eight located on the main wall, and 1. Little Squirt 5c 6 m 4. A Tale of Two Budgies 7a 30 m
routes 9 to 12 on the wall farther west. 2. A Tukka bit further 5c 16 m 5. A Tale of Two Budgies 6a+ 30 m
3. Dragster 5c 18 m 6. Pegasus 7a+ 26 m
1. Fit Lizard 7a+ 15 m 4. Tufa fis-sod 6b 18 m 7. Poseidon 8a 26 m
2. Fat Lizard 6c 16 m 5. Hug the ufa 6a+ 15 m 8. Medusa 7b+ 26 m
3. Seven Scars 7c 20 m 6. Tufa Baroque 6c 16 m 9. Perseus 7a 26 m
4. Project 22 m 7. Tufa Baroque direct 7a 12 m 10. Fire 7c 26 m
5. Sand Castels 7b 22 m 8. Tufa Taghna Lkoll 7b+ 12 m 11. Wind 7b 26 m
6. Sanperreo 7b+ / c 24 m 9. Tufa Tirtoghod 7b+ 12 m 12. Earth 8a 26 m
7. Kenshino 7a+ 24 m 10. Skyhooked Simon 7a 12 m 13. Lembuba 4+ 28 m
8. North Star 6b 21 m
9. Lock Down 6c+ 14 m
10. Kamaleonte 6c+ 14 m Opposite top left: Opposite top right: Opposite bottom: Below: Miriam on
Steve Montebello on Miura Hawkins on Miura Hawkins on North Star 6b+ Blieqa
11. Hatun Machay 6c+ 14 m Tower of Power, Gozo Sopu Tower, Gozo Outer zone 6a+, Wied Sector, Malta
12. Faint Call 7c 14 m Mielah, Gozo

CLIMBING ASSOCIATIONS
Malta Climbing Club: In operation since 2010, the club
has hundreds of members. It’s a member of the International
Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) and a
founding member of the European Union of Associations
of Mountaineering (EUMA). They offer courses and intern-
ships, and maintain sports routes, retrofitting with titanium
hardware. Find them at maltaclimbingclub.org.
Malta Rock Climbing Club: This club is Malta’s longest
running, with members who’ve been with it for decades.
They organize events and establish crags. Find them at
climbmalta.com.

GUIDEBOOK
Sport Climbing in Malta & Gozo is an updated edition by
Simon Alden, president of Malta Climbing Club, Stevie
Haston and Jeffrey Camilleri. The guide is detailed, offers
a rich overview of the climbing areas and will help you find
hidden cliffs.

CLIMBING GYMS
There are two in Malta: Gebla Climbing and Sliema Scouts
Climbing Wall.

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41
 The
Gunks
One of America’s Best
Trad Areas

42 gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023

 area profile

Opposite: Jonathan Siegrist on Below: Kathy Karlo on the huge roof of pitch three of
Photos by Chris Vultaggio Brozone 5.14b on the Ozone Buttress Erect Direction 5.10c, belayed by Justin Seweryn

Around 150 kilometres from New York

City is one of the best, most-revered trad
climbing areas in America. The routes are
steep, the grades are sandbagged and the gear
is run-out. Countless climbers have cut their
teeth on classic climbs like Modern Times
5.8+ and Le Teton 5.9+, where the “+” indi-
cates a solid sandbag. The jugs will pump you
out, the traverses will confuse you and the
roofs will intimidate you, but there’s no better
place to enjoy some time plugging gear on the
sharp end.
The Gunks are found near New Paltz, N.Y.,
and the rock is composed of quartz conglom-
erate. It features long horizontal cracks with
vertical ones. October is one of the best times
of the year to climb in The Gunks, as the tem-
perature cools and the leaves turn. Climbers
started ascending the cliffs back in the 1930s,
and some of the original hardware can still be
found. The Shawangunk ridge extends west
along the Hudson River toward Virginia.
The hills in this region have been inhabited
for thousands of years. The Hudson River area
was home to the Lenape Native Americans, a
group that first encountered Dutch colonists
in the 1600s. The result was the Esopus Wars,
two conflicts between the new Netherlanders
and the Indigenous People of the area. The
hundreds of years of known history is worth
learning more about before visiting.
Much of the rock in The Gunks are on
the Mohonk Preserve, which is a land trust
aimed to protect and preserve the northern
Shawangunk Ridge. Climbers must purchase
a day or annual pass to enter the area. The
main climbing areas are The Near Trapps
and The Trapps, long crags that range from
10 metres to nearly 100 metres. There are
trails that weave through the forests below the
routes, but the area is easy to navigate.
Other popular areas include Millbrook,
which is more remote but offers some classic
lines in an adventurous setting. The Nears
have climbs up to 70 metres, with the best
climbs found at the north end. Sky Top is
another great crag, but you must be a cli-
ent of Alpine Endeavors guiding service to
use it. Peterskill has fun one-pitch climbs
in Minnewaska State Park, you just need to
purchase a different day pass to enter. Other
fun walls include Bonticou and Lost City, two
places fewer climbers visit.
The routes range from one to three pitches,
and from easy to as hard as trad climbing can
get. The moderates will keep you entertained,

gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023

43
 with climbs like High Exposure 5.5 and
Something Interesting 5.7+. The former is
likely the most-climbed route at The Gunks. It
was first climbed in 1941 by Fritz Wiessner and
Hans Kraus and the name is more than fitting.
The first pitch climbs a stem corner to a fun
traverse that ends at a perfect ledge. It’s a full
rope length 5.4, so manage your ropes. The
second pitch is around 30 metres but is one of
the best in the U.S. at the grade. Start up and
head right to where you pull an exposed move
through a roof, it’s always exciting. The top
continues up past fun jugs to a piton anchor.
This wasn’t Wiessner’s first climb, as that was
back in 1935 with Peggy and John Navas. They
climbed Old Route 5.5 for the first established
climb in the crag.
For nearly a century, The Gunks have been
home to epic trad climbs that make lasting
memories. Each route has its own unforget-
table crux or roof to pull. If you’re looking to
plug some cams in solid horizontal cracks with
Dustin Portzline on big exposure then be sure to visit these ancient
Cosmic Boogie 5.12c cliffs in New York.

Local IFMGA guide Silas Rossi of Alpine Logic

on the upper crux of The Winter 5.10d

44
gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023
 area profile

Tatiana Santisi on
the crux of Yellow
Wall 5.11c

Tatiana Santisi on
Evelyn (5.10+)

Left: Matt Santisi on

Forbidden Zone 5.11R

More Hisory
After Wiessner began to open the first climbs, others quickly arrived
looking for first ascent. At the time, most climbers went by the man-
tra “the leader must not fall” to ensure a safe day out. Protection and
harnesses weren’t designed to keep the climber comfortable, just to
keep them from dying. In he mid-20th century, two groups rose to
prominence in The Gunks: the Vulgarians and the Appies—named
for the Appalachian Mountain Club. The Vulgarians were the Warren
Harding of The Gunks and the Appies, with their by-the-book tech-
niques and early belay tests, were the Royal Robbins.
The Vulgarians were bold climbers living a counter-culture lifestyle.
They pushed the limits, climbed nude and partied—a lot. Led by
Dick Williams, other top climbers included Richard Goldstone, who
opened Coexistence 5.10d in 1968. Goldstone made the first no-piton
all-stopper ascent of a climb with Double Crack 5.8. John Stannard
ran with the idea and joined Yvon Chouinard in leading a hammerless
revolution, climbing clean without pounding iron. In the 1980s, a bolt-
ing war led to the Mohonk Preserve declaring a moratorium that put a
stop to adding fixed protection.

45
gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023
area profile
Amanda Milhet on
Birdcage 5.10b
In the 1980s, Lynn Hill arrived and made an onsight first ascent
of Yellow Crack 5.12c and Vandals 5.13a. Vandals, first freed by Jeff
Gruenberg, was the most difficult route on the East Coast at the time
and the area’s first climb of its grade. Her lead of Yellow Crack was
dangerous, and left fellow Gunks climber Russ Ruffa, who worked for
Patagonia at the time, saying, “It was one of the boldest leads I’ve ever
seen. I had tried leading it. I knew you had to totally commit to doing
the moves, otherwise the chance of surviving would be minimal. Those
are the moments that really stand out—when you see someone totally
on the edge.” Not long after, Hill made the first free ascent of Running
Man 5.13d at the Gunks.
Fast forward to 2023 when William Moss, 18, made the first ascent
of Best Things in Life Are Free 5.14dR in the Trapps. The route is the
direct line to Friend Zone 5.14c, which Moss made the first ascent of
two years ago. It took Moss two seasons of projecting. He said it’s his
proudest route to date, noting, “It is the original aid line that was called
Best Things in Life Aren’t Free. It was always the obvious and hardest
project on the Buttress, but it had been too hard and too scary in the
past for me to send. It is by far my proudest ascent to date. The R is
the safety rating. I gave it that because at the crux I am runout about
20 feet above my last piece of protection and the sequence requires
climbing upside down which leads to the potential of hitting my head
or back in a big fall. This made it scary to climb and was the reason I
wore a helmet.”—BP
46 gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023
Area Details
Where to Stay: Several great places can be booked ahead of time
such as the New Paltz Hostel, Mohonk Mountain House, The American
Alpine Club Gunks Campground, The Minnewaska Lodge and Yogi Bear’s
Jellystone Park: Lazy River.
Guidebooks: There are several, but the best resource is the Gunks App.
Printed books include The Climber’s Guide to the Shawangunks: The Near
Trapps and Millbrook, written by Dick Williams. A Rock Climber’s Guide to
the Peter’s Kill Climbing Area, written by Mike Rawdon and Mary Molitoris.
Shawangunk Rock Climbs: Sky Top, written by Dick Williams.
Gear: A standard rack in The Gunks includes micronuts (RPs and HB off-
sets), wired nuts, tricams, Aliens, Camalots, runners, and helmets. Double
ropes are handy. Two-way radios are recommended.
Must-Climb Routes
Horseman 5.5
High Exposure 5.6, 2 pitches
Frog’s Head 5.6, 2 pitches
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope 5.8, 3 pitches
Bonnie’s Roof 5.9, 2 pitches
The Dangler 5.10a
Nosedive 5.10b
Coexistence 5.10d
The Sting 5.11d
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Gold-standard carabiners for ideal clippability and longevity.
Continuously adjustable lanyards for fast and easy anchoring.
THESE ARE THE PETZL DIFFERENCES WORTH JUSTIFYING.

© 2022-PETZL DISTRIBUTION-Marc Daviet

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 the rack

The Rack
50 Fall Crag Days
54 The Mixed Climber
58 Burly Belay Coats
Photo Matt Stetson

49
gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023
the rack

Fall Crag
Days
This is often the best time of the year
to redpoint those summer-long projects,
so be sure you’re prepared for those fall
temps next time you head up to the crag.
Petzl
Sitta $280
If your favourite fall pastime is heading to the crag to get in some fun
laps, then having a light harness is a great option. The Sitta has a high
price tag, but you get what you pay for, which is quality and durabil-
ity. The minimalist design allows for smooth movements. The thin leg
loops and waist belt are comfortable, and it has four big gear loops. It’s
extremely compact, can carry a lot of gear and is one of our favourite
harnesses on the market.

Rab
Microlight Alpine Down Jacket $390
This must-have classic lightweight down jacket was recently updated
with a fresh look. Rab is also making it with 100 per cent recycled
fabric. It’s warm, comfortable, the perfect fit for cool weather climbing
and packs down. It has several styles of baffles to keep your cool areas
toasty, while leaving active joints free to move. While it’s perfect for fall
cragging, this will act as your go-to layer for ice climbing once winter
rolls around.

The North Face

Men’s ThermoBall Eco Vest 2.0 $230
Shoulder season is the best time of the year to wear a vest to and/or at
the crag. It can keep your body warm without making you too hot. It’s
packable, made with 100 per cent recycled fabrics and is lightweight.
The quilted insulation is plush enough to keep you warm in chilly
temps. It’s the perfect vest for those who don’t like bulk. A nice fit at
the crag or for heading out for dinner.

Arc’teryx
Rethel Jacket $180
This amazing new jacket, which can work as a mid layer, is perfect for
shoulder season cragging. The trim fit is formed from a durable fabric,
unlike some other more delicate Arc’teryx fabrics like the Kyanite.
Thanks to smartly designed articulated patters, the level of stretch will
allow you to move with flow up steep pitches. It breathes well but keep
you warm.

50 gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023

Camp
Megasonic Trek Pole $100
Camp makes some of the best vertical winter
equipment available, which includes trekking
poles. They have a wide range of cutting-edge
poles, with the new Megasonic being our
choice for fall cragging and ice climbing this
winter. It’s a robust, foldable option that uses
probe-style construction which allows it to
break down and fit in your larger pack. They
have ergonomic foam grips that don’t strain
your hands after hours of use, and hard metal
tips that bite into steep crud and snow.

gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023

51
the rack

Grivel Black Diamond

Mega K6N $20 Vapor $190
Every crag climber needs at least one locking carabiner in case you The original Vapor helmet set new standards for low weight, ventila-
need to lower or build and anchor, and the K6N is a solid option. The tion, and protection, and now you can get last season’s version for a
durable aluminum 86-gram carabiner is also perfect for belaying with staggeringly good price. The helmet achieves its unique blend of low
any style device. The locker is easy to operate in cold weather, and the weight and protection by combining a sheet of Kevlar with a series
gate opens wide, so you don’t have to struggle with the rope. One of the of carbon rods. These components are moulded inside the EPS foam,
best locking carabiners on the market. which is covered with a thin polycarbonate shell. The result is a hel-
met that delivers all-around impact protection without the bulk often
found in helmets with more conventional construction. A low-profile
ratcheting adjustment system easily accommodates a variety of head
shapes, and the replaceable headlamp clips provide a secure headlamp
attachment point.

Edelrid
Heron Eco Dry 9.8 $299
From one of the world’s great rope manufacturers comes this top-of-
the-line all-round robust rope that can take the thrashing that comes
with long crag days during the shoulder season. It’s water repellent,
easy to handle and quick to clip. Some of the rope’s specs are: number
of falls: 10; impact force: 9.3 kN; dynamic elongation: 34 per cent; and
weight per metre: 63 grams. This is our favourite rope for fall cragging.

Metolius
Superclip $36
Thankfully, stick clips have become more and more common at crags.
The Superclip is one of the original designs, it works with any non-
locking carabiner. It works with broom handles and painter’s poles, and
only weighs 50 grams. Once you learn how it works, you’ll never switch
to another brand.—Gripped

52 gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023

the rack

The
Mixed
Climber

Drytooling season will quickly turn from pure tool-on-rock

days to transitioning from stone to ice, so sharpen those picks
and dust off those screws.

Petzl
Dijnn Access Quickdraw $20
The Djinn carabiner is a heavy-duty workhorse Petzl has positioned
as a more durable version of their slightly lighter Spirit draw. Extra
material at rope contact points gives it superior longevity and avoids
wear. The bent back spine of the biner makes it fit well in the hand for
clipping. The gates on the carabiners gates on carabiners are snappy
but easily manipulated. The polyester draw makes a solid handhold.
Although Petzl markets these as beginner draws, they will also appeal
to experienced climbers seeking a featured draw that clips easily and
can put up with the abuse of long trad leads and redpointing.
La Sportiva
Mega Ice Evo $800
Updated for 2023, this specialized boot is a supremely built piece of
equipment that will help you climb better. The new model has some
aesthetic improvements, but also some other updates, such as a new
abrasion resistant upper fabric, and their environmentally friendly
Friction Eco rubber that uses leftover rubber from other designs. The
front points are set up like ice climbing crampons, so they’ll engage
once you move from rock to ice. These are built to help you feel solid
on steep drytool and mixed routes.

54 gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023

Black Diamond
Women’s Alpine Start Hoody $230
Just in time for fall and winter, this newly
redesigned Schoeller stretch-woven jacket is a
must-have for all your cold weather climbing.
It has a great range of motion without shifting
on demanding moves. We loved the hem seals
and elastic banding in the hood. From cold
and chilly crag days to sending in blustery
conditions, you’ll be happy that you brought
the Alpine Start with you.

Grivel
Dark Machine X $420
This aggressive tool excels on overhanging ter-
rain, like bolted limestone caves. The handle
drops at such a steep angle that its close to
horizontal when on cave roofs. These perform
best on rock but can handle short drips of ice
between bolts or below the anchor. Match
these with the total dry pick from Grivel for
the best performance.
Camp
Nano 22 Rack Pack carabiners $50
Six wire gate carabiners for racking on your
next multi-pitch mixed rig. The Nano 22 have
a high strength-to-weight ratio, are light and
have deep baskets. They’re stiffer than some
wire gates, but easy enough to open with thin
gloves on. Each carabiner weighs less than
25 grams. A must-have set of reliable clips for
winter climbing.
Rab
Men’s Ascendor Light Pant $170
These new softshell pants allow you to
move freely on complicated terrain while
staying protected from the elements. The
Ascendor Light has slim fit that let you
focus on accurate foot placements on com-
plex mixed climbs. The double-weave fab-
ric isn’t built for winter weather but is
perfect for shoulder season sending. The
articulated knees combine with the four-
way stretch fabric to give one of the most
mobile pants on the market.

gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023

55
the rack

The North Face

Women’s Summit Series Casaval Hoodie $400
This updated model is one of the best insulated layers for fall mixed
cragging. The synthetic insulation is evenly distributed throughout
the body, sleeves, and hood. It’s lightweight and highly breathable. The
chest pocket has an internal mesh pouch, and the stretch-woven cuffs
are made with flexible dissolvable yarns. There are no shoulder seams,
so hot points shouldn’t develop with a pack on.

Scarpa
Rebel Ice $380
If you’re looking for a high-end mixed climbing boot than look no fur-
ther. The Rebel Ice is like having a comfortable and precise rock shoe
combined with Scarpa’s sturdy crampon points. It has a rigid carbon
fibre sole with a quick-to-tighten Boa closure system. This is a snug
boot with a synthetic leather upper. A must-have for climbers looking
to push the M grades.

Petzl
Ergonomic $520
The Ergonomic raised the standard for ice tool design when it was
released a few years ago, and it remains one of the most loved on the
market. It bridged the gap between the Nomic and its predecessor, the
Ergo, offering more utility than as a specialist tool. It excels on every-
thing from steep ice to overhanging dry tooling and mixed climbs. It
took the head and shaft of the Nomic and added a much beefier, more
aggressive handle design for steeper climbing, pick stability and more
relaxed hang time.

Arc’teryx
Alpha FL 40 pack $320
Arc’teryx’s packs have become some of the most trusted for long days in
the mountains. The FL 40 is an alpine-specific design which excels on
fast-and-light ice climb missions in the winter. Its narrow design makes
it ideal for long routes. The fabric is durable and the accessories are
minimal which makes it great for alpine ice and mixed lines.—Gripped

56 gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023

 ɶ

RONNIE BLACK
ɶ
CONFIRMATION (5.13B)
NEW RIVER GORGE, WV
ɶ
IMAGE BY KAREN LANE
the rack

Burly
Belay
Coats
It was a hot summer, but the Farmer’s
Almanac said that we’ll have a quick
“return of the BRRR” this winter. Be pre-
pared for those long days out by having
the best and warmest layer possible.

Mountain Hardwear
Nilas Jacket

Valandre Rab Men’s

Immelman G2 Axion Pro

58 gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023

Mountain Hardwear
Nilas Jacket $800
This designed-for-altitude down coat is the
perfect choice for cold belays this winter.
Whether you’re being slammed by spindrift
or fighting freezing wind, you’ll be happy and
cozy in this monster layer. No matter what the
conditions are, flip the hood up and you’ll be
warm and dry. The zipper and fabric are dura-
ble, with the zipper easy to use with gloves on.
One of the best big down coats on the market.
Valandre
Immelman G2 $700
In the world of big and warm puffy coats, few
compare to this beast. With 57 individual
baffles and an articulated design that gives a
wide range of motion, the Immelman G2 is
one of the best down jackets ever made. Built
for technical climbing, you can be sure that
the 350 grams of down is enough to keep you
cozy at the belay or while on the move. From
the pockets to the hood, everything about this
jacket is fantastic.
Arc’teryx
Nuclei SV Parka
Rab
Men’s Axion Pro Down Jacket $420
Rab makes some of the best apparel for cold
weather, so it’s no surprise this layer works
spectacularly at keeping you warm during the
coldest months. Even in drastically fluctuating
temps, this trim coat will provide protection
without overheating you. It fits a little boxy,
so you can toss it on over a trimmer insulated
layer. It’s good to climb steep ice pitches in, but
it’s great for long belays at the mixed crag.
Arc’teryx
Nuclei SV Parka $450
This is one of Arc’teryx’s warmest synthetic
jackets ever, and it’s perfectly equipped for the
coldest days on the ice. It will keep you warm
in the harshest weather thanks to the amazing
warmth-to-weight ration. Despite the thin
outer fabric, it’s extremely wind resistance so
you don’t have to worry about gusts of wind
giving you the chills. It fits well over other lay-
ers. It has good storage, smooth zippers, and
a comfy hood. An all-round great jacket for
this winter.
Patagonia
Fitz Roy Down Hoody
Patagonia
Fitz Roy Down Hoody $499
This revamped version of one of Patagonia’s
best-every down jackets makes it a great choice
for this frigid winter. It’s impressively pack-
able and light and made with Patagonia’s most
advanced fabrics. The finish is soft and subtle,
and the jacket overall is a minimalist build
with few features. It uses certified goose down
and can pack into its own pocket. Great for
belaying, but also climbing steep ice pitches
in the cold.
The North Face
Men’s Summit Series
Breithorn Hoodie $510
This incredible jacket has a flawless zipper,
has a great fit and allows you to move and
has a nearly perfect amount of insulation.
Improvements from the previous model
include more functional cuffs and a better
breast pocket. It feels softer than before, but
it’s much stronger and more durable. There are
four big drop pockets and some of the logos
have reflective. The Breithorn is one of The
North Face’s best big puffy coats.—Gripped
The North Face
Men’s Summit Series
Breithorn Hoodie
gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023
59
news

Left: Trango Tower

with Cowboy Direct
on the far left

News Flash
³ Trango Tower
Jesse Huey, Matt Segal and Jordan Cannon
repeated Cowboy Direct 5.13a on Trango
Tower. It was first climbed in 1995 and went
without a second ascent until this summer.

´ Off to Olympics
Six climbers secured a spot to compete
at the 2024 Olympics at this summer’s
World Championships: Janja Garnbret,
Jessica Pilz, Ai Mori for the women, and
Jakob Schubert, Colin Duffy and Tomoa
Narasaki for the men.
New 5.12c on The Chief ´ Amity Warme Sends 5.13d R
Zorro’s Poem is a new nine-pitch 5.12c up the Zodiac Wall on The Chief in Squamish. It has Top American crack climber Amity Warme
vertical to overhanging pitches with splitter cracks and technical bolted sections. It includes visited Squamish this summer and repeated
a few pitches of Polaris and the Raven, but otherwise it’s an independent line. The route was Tainted Love 5.13d R.
established and cleaned by Colin Moorhead, who worked on it for over 20 days. He made the
first free ascent with Robbie Thibault, noting the route is a “steep odyssey sure to deliver a beat- ´ North Pillar
ing even to seasoned crack rats.” Find the topo at squamishrockguides.com. The 1,000-metre North Pillar 5.11 on Mount
MacDonald in Rogers Pass saw a few
ascents this summer, including by Zach
New 5.13 on Habrich Colbran, Rory O’Donnell, and by Ripley
A new 300-metre 5.13a trad climb was added to Mount Habrich’s north face above the Howe Boulianne and Boris Granche.
Sound in B.C. called Blood Moon. It was completed by Jacob Cook and Drew Marshall, a duo
who’ve established some of the area’s hardest multi-pitch routes over the past few years. Cook ´ Laura Rogora Onsights 5.14b
said the route is characterised by steep and burly crack climbing through five pitches followed by Italian climber Laura Rogora joined the
moderate climbing to the top. The pitches break down to 5.12b, 5.13a, 5.12a, 5.9R, 5.12d and lots of 5.14b onsight club on a visit to Cicera, Spain,
5.7. Cook said the crux is a laser-cut crack with a crux that’s protected by small offset cams. The where she made an onsight of Ajo Crudo.
route was completed at the time of print, but we’ll have a feature on the climb in the next issue. She also onsighted 5.14a with Los Lunnis.

´ New 5.12 on Eiger North Face

New 5.11 on Castle Swiss climbers Peter von Känel and Silvan
On Castle Mountain in Banff National Park, Merrick Montemurro and Kevin Sevalrud Schüpbach made the first ascent of Eiger
climbed a new 150-metre 5.11b called Shaolin Shadowboxin’. The route is complsed of Eldon Renaissance, a 30-pitch 1,220-metre 5.12 up
Dolomite, which is one of the most solid rocks found in the Canadian Rockies. Pitch four is a the north face of the Eiger in Switzerland.
50-metre 5.11b that’s described as a “real Rockies splitter.” They climbed the route from Aug. 19 to 24
without placing bolts and only leaving eight
pitons behind.
5.13d on Stanley Headwall
This wall is one of the most famous winter climbing areas in the world, but it now has an amaz- ´ New Ontario Multi-Pitch
ing crag and several multi-pitch lines. Gery’s Wall is a well established sport crag with routes up Epiphany is a four-pitch 5.11b up Mount
to 5.13, and the area around the Nemesis waterfall has at least five bolted/mixed multi-pitches. Olympus by Patrick Martel and Aric
Photo Syed Ali

The newest hardest climb is a 45-metre 18-bolt 5.13d called Tombstone, first climbed by Mason Fishman. You need 15 quickdraws and a
Tessier. And the newest multi-pitch is Wolverine Petting Zoo, a seven-pitch 5.12- by Craig single 60-metre rope.—Gripped
McGee and Lyndsay Anderson.

60 gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023

We are the
Mountain
People
Crafted by conditions, sharpened by every
step. Our mountain gear gives you absolute
protection, comfort and mobility, when you
really need it.

WWW .R AB .E QU I PM ENT
northern exposures

Aaron Peterson on Animal Cracker 5.10a in City of Rocks, Idaho. Photo Fallon Rowe

62 gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023

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notes from the top
Reconnecting
With An Old
Friend in
Above: Rob Miller
on Gravity Ceiling Yosemite
Story by Chris Van Leuven
Rob “Platinum” Miller, a legendary figure in the Yosemite big wall
free-climbing scene, first ascensionist, personal trainer, and mentor to
countless climbers—including me—just unveiled his comprehensive
Training Guide for Climbers: Platinum Principles for Success. Now avail-
able on Amazon and Book Baby for $28.95, the guide covers 21 chapters,
brimming with wisdom amassed over decades as a professional athlete
and coach.
Miller’s book is for climbers eager to craft their training regimen
and boost their route climbing and bouldering performance. With eas-
ily understandable illustrations, sample training schedules, and concise
instructions, this guide is touted as an “easy-to-use resource” by profes-
sional climber Katie Lambert.
The project, akin to Miller’s groundbreaking first ascents in Yosemite,
including Quantum Mechanic V 5.13 on Washington Column, High
Life V 5.12 on Higher Cathedral Spire, The PreMuir VI 5.13c and the
Direct Line VI 5.13d on El Capitan, symbolizes a monumental achieve-
ment in Miller’s career.
In a candid chat this June, Miller shared the challenges of coordinat-
ing with illustrators, designers, photographers, and subcontractors to
bring the book to life. “It was a lot of work,” he said, as I sat outside
Yosemite with his autographed copy, reminiscing about when we first
met two decades ago. The inscription read: “Look forward to climbing
with you again soon!”
Miller’s influence began shaping my climbing journey when we
64 gripped.com V25.05 10/11 2023
partnered for the daunting free climb of the Westie Face on Leaning
Tower, a steep grade V route with most pitches clocking in at 5.12 or
5.13. I followed his lead up the intimidating wall, my terror replaced by
awe as he deftly navigated the route, falling only a few times, each of
which he shook off before continuing. His minimalist approach to gear,
food, and water allowed us to complete the climb by 11 am that morning.
By the time we reached the top of the route, my fingers were bleeding,
gobies were all over my body. And my mind was blown.
Despite the physical toll it took on my muscles (I was totally
wrecked), we returned to Leaning Tower a couple of days later, where
Rob redpointed the line to mark the route’s second ascent while I man-
aged a 95 percent top-rope free ascent. Once at the top, he encouraged
me to take the lead next time and said he would support me from bot-
tom to top as I led every pitch. This route marked the start of my big
wall mentorship under Miller. (I’ll never forget the total meltdown I
had when I tried to lead every pitch of Westie Face, which resulted in
him taking over two pitches from the top, but that’s a different story.
Ultimately, it took many attempts, but I was finally successful.)
I got stronger, more confident and we partnered up for years. And
we always climbed ground-up, which included 5.13 on El Cap (Zodiac;
many attempts, freeing to halfway), Higher Cathedral Rock (Gravity
Ceiling; I flashed it following his lead as he shouted beta), 5,13s in
Tuolumne Meadows and 5.13s in the Virgin River Gorge, Arizona.
Miller later teamed up with 5.14 veteran and coach Justen Sjong to
establish the Pre Muir on El Cap VI 5.13d. After establishing this route,
one of El Cap’s hardest free lines, Miller embarked on his ambitious first
ascent project parallel to the Nose, The Direct Line VI 5.13d, which took
him seven years to complete. The route was so demanding that by the
end of his final two-week push on the wall, he’d lost 18 pounds.
I documented Miller’s journey in my debut story for Outside Inc.,
titled The Agony and Ecstasy of Free Climbing El Capitan.
“Miller viewed the Direct Line as a chance ‘to push beyond where I’ve
ever gone before,” I wrote in Outside. “‘Your senses need to be tuned in,
unattached to the outcome. That’s when you experience sublime ath-
letic performance.’” Rob’s commitment to the Direct Line and resource-
rich training guide, Training Guide for Climbers, show his unwavering
dedication to top-tier climbing.
I owe my climbing prowess to Miller’s teachings, many of which find
their way into his book. The invaluable training insights Miller shared
over the years, everything required to level up my climbing game, are
all within these pages.
The book’s creation involved “endless hours of writing, rewriting, and
reading,” he confessed, adding that the biggest challenge was that he’s
not a writer. “My goal was to provide a framework of understanding
so that the reader could identify and implement other sound training
methodologies, not just the ones outlined in this book. I think I’ve suc-
ceeded,” he shares.
In Training Guide for Climbers, Miller distills his years of experience
as a driven climber and strength coach, including a decade and a half
of coaching climbers and youth teams. The guide cuts through the
myths and misconceptions prevalent in today’s climbing culture, set-
ting climbers on a targeted, calculated training path for improvement.
“Your performance as a climber is the sum of two significant aspects
of the sport: climbing technique and the capacity of your physical body,”
he writes. “Training is about trying to drive adaptation in a purposeful
Photo Andrew McGarry
way. This book outlines the strategies and methods for thinking about
training in these terms and how it changes as we become more adapted
to climbing. So, let’s begin.”
Chris Van Leuven is a regular contributor to Gripped.
He’s based in Yosemite.
Paul Mcsorley
Climbing in the granite wonderland
at Los Arenales, Argentina arcteryx.com