LECTURE-02
10/10/2023 7:57 PM
MENS GARMENTS IN MUGHAL EMPIRE
1. JAMA
• Jama means "garments" in Persian language.
• The Yaktahi Jama (an unlined Jama) was first worn over a pai-jama to create
the “Bast Agag” ensemble in Iran and Central Asia. It was worn both long and
short. The word “Jama” in Persian denotes a dress, robe, or coat. The Mughal
Jama is a side-fastening frock coat with a fitted bodice, cinched waist, and a
flaring skirt that falls to the knees.
2. CHOGHA
• This was worn on top of garments.
• Coat type
• The word Chogha in Mughal times referred to a long sleeved coat, open down
the front, usually down to hip length or knee length. suggest that dhotis were
ever worn in combination with the coats.
3. PATKA
• Worn like a sash
• Also sometimes used to store sword
• HAND WOVEN
• Finest fabric with complex designs and sometimes block printing
• Men's sashes, called patkas, were wrapped two or three times around the
wearer's waist and tied with their ends hanging down in the front. Worn over
jamas, the long robes typical of the time, they allowed Mughal men to display
their wealth by tucking daggers, pencases, and other precious objects into the
fabric.
4. BAGAL BANDI
• It is called Waist coat in today fashion
• The Mughals were the most prominent wearers of this style of clothing and
was worn by the rulers as well as the noblemen of the court. As part of India's
indigenous history though, the Angrakha (the most common and popular form
of bagalbandi style clothing) was worn by the people from the state of
Rajasthan.
5. DHOTI & PAIJAMA
• Langot/dhoti
• Men always wore pants with their jamas (coats in this context), and there is no
artistic evidence to imply that dhotis were ever worn with the jackets during
the Akbari period.
• Rajpal wore trousers in public even if he may have dressed in a dhoti at home.
Artwork from the era show that the paijamas were flowing and loose up to the
knee, when they tightened up till the ankle. Often, the cloth on the lower legs
is wrinkled, indicating that the paijamas were pushed up, like the sleeves of the
jama, in a show of ostentatious consumerism because they were longer than
the leg itself.
6. PAIJAMA
• Men traditionally wore long over-lapping coat known as Jama with patka sash
tied around on the waist and " "Paijama" style pants were worn (leg coverings
that gave the English word pajama) under the Jama. A "pagri" (turban) was
worn on the head to complete the outfit.
WOMENS GARMENTS IN MUGHAL EMPIRE
1. PESHWAZ
• Loose (jama-like) robe
• Choli blouse worn under the peshwaz
• Peshwaj (peshwaz, paswaj, tilluck, dress) was a ladies outfit similar to a gown or jama coat
with front open, tied around the waist, having full sleeves, and the length was full neck to
heels. Peshwaj was one of the magnificent costumes of the mughal court ladies.
2. YALEK
• A Loose under tunic (long) reacing to the floor
• Yalek was an underslip, a ladies garment older than 500 years of the Indian subcontinent.
Yalek was a long vest type undergarment, sticking to the body, and the length was down to
ankles. The ladies wore Yalek underneath the gowns and other costumes.
3. PAIJAMA
• a kind of loose-fitting trouser held at the waist by a drawstring. The name is a composite of
two Persian words: pae, meaning “leg” or “foot,” and jama, meaning “covering.”
• There are several variants of the paijama, which differ in length, girth and tightness, including
the sharai paijama, the Punjabi ghuttana and the farshi paijama.
4. CHURIDAR
• Longer than the leg so that it can gather around the leg like bangels
• Churidars are tightly fitting trousers worn by both men and women in the Mughal era. The
excess length falls into folds and appears like a set of bangles resting on the ankle and hence
the name churidar (meaning bangle like). In Mughal times, they were usually paired with a
peshwas or a kurta.
5. SHALWAR
• Part of the national dress of Pakistan, and commonly worn throughout the Indian
subcontinent, the shalwar is a garment every Pakistani is familiar with. But a lesser-known
fact is that we actually inherited the garment from the Mughals. The shalwar was actually a
commonly worn garment worn by women in the Mughal court.
6. DHILJA
• A dhilja was a pajama made of silk with a wide cut and straight in shape.
• The Dhilja was a garment of the Mughal clothing of ladies in the Indian subcontinent in the
late 17th to early 19th centuries.
7. GHARARA
• Gharara is a traditional Pakistani dress that originates from the Mughal era. This dress was
considered a part of the royal wardrobe and a sign of nobility. Gharara dress was usually
worn by royal women casually and formally on different occasions
8. FARSHI
• A unique style of dressing up the farshi pyjama that incorporated in the Mughal era. The
freely fall back flares was gracefully held by a keneez and the wearer hold it in her left hand,
the right sides leave free. The lengths were draped so long that it falls free to the ground.
9. DUPATTA
• Dupatta or odhni were used to cover the head by Mughal 'ladies and veil fall down on both
sides up to the thighs. The fabric of the dupatta was made up of pure gold and silver threads.
These dupattas were embellished with gold work still were very fine to carry on.