STARTING A Fthe

ashion
file

CLOTHING
LINE
By:
The
Fashion File

CHECKLISTS:

MUST-HAVE TOOLS
 FIRST THINGS FIRST...
WHY DOES THIS EVEN MATTER?

you should never expect

a vendor or contractor
to provide you with any tools.
(just don’t)

99% of workshops do not keep extras for their clients.

Their tools are for their employees, and they are most
likely being utilized. They’ll kindly help on occasion,
but never make it a habit. Interrupting their workflow
www.apparelsynergy.com costs them money. Be mindful of everyone’s time.
 OK. BUT...
HOW OFTEN WILL YOU REALLY NEED THEM?

always remember...
time = money
(always, always, always)

Some daily, some not as often. However, not having the

right tool when the need arises, costs you $$$ on added
TIME either finding it, taking longer than it should to
complete the task, or doing it not up to standard. Again,
always stay mindful of everyone’s time. Especially yours!
LAST BUT NOT LEAST...
WHY BE SO SPECIFIC?

ALL TOOLS
ARE NOT CREATED EQUAL
(yes, really!)

The wrong type, size or quality of a tool not only is a waste of

your money on an item you will eventually end up having to
replace with the better option, (and time and efficiency
meanwhile), but can cause major issues such as damaging
goods, or providing innacurate data (measurements).
 before we get to it...

Budget is always to be kept in check, especially as a start-up.

The following list is our tried-and-true best values for the buck
options, for each tool. After 25+ years of putting them through
the test, we assure you that some of them can last you a lifetime.

The links to the Amazon products we are offering are the best
prices we’ve found on the qualities we know will perform best, as
of January of 2020. Be sure to double check before making your
purchase, as Amazon vendors do sometime lower prices to
increase reviews. If you find a better deal, we’d love to know. Do
stick to the brand we have listed, or similar as closely as you can.
You’ll thank us later.
F
pro
the
ashion
file

tips
TOP 1 4
MUST-HAVE
TOOLS
OUR TRIED-AND-TRUE... AND THE ONES TO SKIP
 GETTING (AND STAYING) ORGANIZED
#1 • TAG GUN #3 • HEAVY DUTY GARMENT RACK
#5 • HANGERS

#2 • #4 •
PATTERN RACK
DIVIDERS
HOOKS
 #1 • TAG GUN
Always without fail tag your samples and fabrics. Tags/labels
should include at the very least your company name and the
date. Not only this will come in handy when keeping track of
your items, but most importantly, should you drop or
innadvertedly leave something behind at a contractor.

Organize yourself in a way where as you grow and work with

more people, everything is easily ID’d and tracked.

Why this one brand in particular? You’ll see this gun at most places because it’s durable,
and can handle heavy materials such as raw denim, and it leaves a minimal mark
behind. Check their competitor’s reviews and you’ll find quality complaints on most.

carry pre-made tags or labels with your logo and info

 #2 • PATTERN HOOKS
Occasionally, Pattern Makers might hand you work hanging on a string or
fabric scrap tie. Have back up pattern hooks to ensure your patterns can be
handled in the safest way to avoid rips, wrinkles and pattern pieces lost.

This is not something that speaks of a low skill level or lack of

professionalism on the pattern maker’s end, but a common thing they do, if
they are out of hooks. And, as a fashion professional, you are
expected to have pattern hooks as part of your toolbox.

You can also slide a folded garment through the string loop, thus keeping pattern and
sew-by sample together. When it comes to these hooks, they are pretty similar in
quality across the board, so we chose purely based on price vs. quantity.

tie a color string to spot your work easily

 #3 • HEAVY DUTY GARMENT RACK
With so many more aesthetically sides do not extend
sides extend
pleasing options, it is easy to get
carried away by looks!…
However, as samples and patterns
increase in quantity, what you need is
a rack that can handle the load with- stable unstable
out falling apart, is easy to roll around
and won’t get threads
tangled up inside the wheels
(those with wheel covers are easy to swivel covered
impossible to clean). heavy duty wheels
wheels small wheels

KEEP THE PULL-OUT extension ENDS FREE TO USE AS NEEDED

 #4 • RACK DIVIDERS
not
Tagging your samples is the first step you should never tall visible
skip, and keeping them organized and easily accessible to top edge
everyone working with you, a close second.
It is a major time saver. As you progress through
development, samples pile up quickly. It is key that you
assign sections on your racks so that they are easy to find.
Ideally, by season first, then by category, and in the pro-
gression of the fittings (latest fit sample in the front). not
visible
Having a designated spot for samples. also makes them
more visible, minimizing the risk of it ‘mysteriously’
dissapearing. Unfortunately, a common ocurrence.

at the top, instead of marker use color paper and clear tape
 #5 • HANGERS
easy to too
swivel too flimsy
top 2 strap / bulky
hanger loop
hooks

Not the best looking, but by far the best size, features (loose swivel top and two types of
strap hooks) and most durable for the job! (A word of caution: even within this design,
always check that the pastic does not easily break). For bottoms, purchase matching
ones with clips. Wood hangers are more pleasing to the eye, however the hook does not
turn easily and they are too bulky. Velvet ones are too flimsy and thin.

ONLY USE WOOD HANGERS FOR VERY HEAVY GARMENTS

 DAILY MUST-HAVES
#6 MEASURING TAPE

#7 RULER (18”x2”)
#8 RULER(6”x1”)
#10
TRIMMING
SCISSORS #14
TAILOR’S CHALK
#13
#9 #12 #11 SEAM
FABRIC SCISSORS SAFETY FINE RIPPER
(10”) PINS PINS
 #6 • MEASURING TAPE (60”)
sturdy constant pulling
material might
cause stretching
large slow
easy to see and easy
numbers too thin, to break
numbers too small feature
This one is THE item that’s always MIA when you need it. Load up on a pack of 5.
This is something even some fashion professionals don’t know, but overtime,
measuring tapes can stretch. This could cause mejor problems, especially when going
back and forth about sample specs with your factory.
Also, 60” is the most versatile length. Unless your product requires 120”, it is just too
long to handle, and will get tangled easily.

carefull remove the metal tip for most accurate measuring

 #7 • RULER (18”x 2”)
depth no grid
not too short grid (2”)
or long (18”)

can’t use depth too short (12”)

for measuring

Beyond the obvious uses for a ruler, this one is long enough for establishing your High
Point Shoulder level when measuring garments (women’s sample size shoulders are at
about 15.5” wide) . A transparent ruler with a grid, also saves time when measuring certain
points of measure on a sample, such as a neck drop. Why does this ruler take the top spot?
Zero centering scale, and it is calibrated in 16ths to the inch. You do want a ruler that is
sold with profesionals in mind. You’d be surprised at how much a 1/16’ can make!

do not leave this ruler near heat! it will distort/bend.

 #8 • RULER (6”x 1”)

In addition to the 18” grid ruler, we highly recomment keeping a 6” x 1”

version at your desk. It is perfect for measuring narrow trims such as ribbons,
elastics, etc. Great to measure small buttons, should you not have a ligne
chart (which is the proper way to measure buttons)

And also very easy to carry around in your bag when sourcing trims at
jobbers where more often than not, they don’t properly label their stock.

KEEP THE PULL-OUT extension ENDS FREE TO USE AS NEEDED

 #9 • FABRIC SCISSORS (10”)
Yes, you need a separate pair of professional fabric scissors.

Never use them for anything but fabric. No paper, etc.

ONLY fabric! And always ask if the scissors are “fabric or
paper’ before taking someone else‘s. It is important to do
this to preserve the smooth edge and so that they don’t 8”
10”
become dull. If you care for them properly, they will last
you a lifetime, which is a great return on your investment.

The most versatile size is 10’ for both cutting fabric, and
samples during fittings. Anything smaller, or less sharp is
for home sewing projects or crafts.

always pass the scissors with a firm grip on the blade side.
 #10 • TRIMMING SCISSORS
Trimming scissors don’t need to be fancy. grip close to blade
They need to be sharp, precise and able to handle
cutting through thick and tight seams.

Unless you aren’t comfortabe handling our choice

for safety reasons, these little and unpretentious
trimming scissors work great, fast, are inexpensive less
and will last you a long time. strength

The key feature is its shape. It allows you to put

pressure close to the blade, much needed when
cutting through tight and thick seams.

tie a ribbon or string to them to make them easy to spot

 #11 • FINE (SATIN/SILK) PINS
Yes, any pin will usually do. 1 3/8”
1”
However, fine point pins are always our first choice, as
they leave the smallest mark after the pins are removed.

Our top pick is 1” long to avoid bending, and has a plain

top. Glass/plastic heads can easily get tangled with
threads or ties, and come off. They might be easier to
spot, however in this case, this benefit does not override
the risk of the pin coming off the garment while being
handled.

do use ball top pins to stabilize a garment to be measured

 #12 • SAFETY PINS (2”)

lighter metal poor quality poor quality

heavy duty home sewing colors look cheap plastic
industry standard standard amateur pieces
When buying pins for fittings, size and quality play an important role. We prefer heavy
duty industry standard. Because they usually come in large quantity boxes, the most
versatile size is 2”. Anything larger will not work as well and leave holes, and 1.5” ones are
too small to pin heavier fabrics (and take more time to cover the same area as the 2” ones)

use but terfly clips instead of pins on leather / vinyl

 #13 • SEAM RIPPER

There are newer retractable, folding and ergo-

nomic options for seam rippers. However, they
do tend to get passed around and lost easily. So
stick with the basics. They get the job done and
they are inexpensive.

Avoid short handle ones. You do want to have a

good grip on it as you work, or you might
accidentally put a hole in the garment.

do ask a professional seamstress to teach you how to use it

 #14 • TAILOR’S CHALK

wax

Always stick to basic chalk! It is easy to break into pieces as needed, and to remove mark-
ings on garments. ‘Fancier’ options such as chalk pencils and wheels do not offer features
that justify spending extra. With the wax kind (glossy ones), if your fabric happens to be
a wool blend and it is pressed, it will be permanently stained! If leaving marks is not an
issue, just go with Sharpies or pens as they are easier to handle and much clearer.

KEEP THE PULL-OUT extension ENDS FREE TO USE AS NEEDED

 WORST ROOKIE PURCHASES

home
sewing machine
adjustable
dress
forms
steamer
random
display
forms small desk

shop at industry supply stores and ask for recommendations

 WORST ROOKIE
worst rookie PURCHASES
purchases to avoid

Adjustable Dress Forms:

These forms are for home sewing projects. They are too innacurate and flimsy to handle the
workflow of an apparel brand. Maniquin specs are key to your fit and should be consistent.

display Dress Forms:

These are for display purposes and anatomically incorrect. Unless you already have a show-
room, there is absolutely no need to spend your budget on these.

expensive steamer: If you keep your samples on hangers, you shouldn’t have much of a need
for it. Otherwise, invest in a good steam iron that can press and steam instead, which is
what most workshops use.

set up your work area so that it can grow with your brand
 WORST ROOKIE PURCHASES
home sewing machine:
They are just too slow. If you are considering setting up a workshop or having a sewing machine
in your design room, buy an industrial one. You can buy a used Juki single needle to start. They
will last you a lifetime and should you end up not having to use it, they have great resale value, as
they are the top choice in factories due to their quality. (Consew is not as good)

small desk:
When choosing your work desk, do keep in mind that you will be reviewing fabrics, fabric and
trim cards and even full garments, so the larger the surface the better.
Do not get carried away with looks, but stay with functionality. If space allows, a cutting table sec-
tion is a fantastic option. It’s tall enough to function as a stand-up desk, and also provides plenty
of space underneath for storage.

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 F the
ashion
file

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