AUTHOR: MARI-LIIS LILLE

THIS IS AN ORIGINAL DESIGN BY LILLELIIS.

YOU ARE ALLOWED TO SELL THE FINISHED PRODUCT HANDMADE BY YOU
IF THE ITEM DESCRIPTION STATES IT`S BASED ON LILLELIIS PATTERN
(PATTERN BY MARI-LIIS LILLE, WWW.LILLELIIS.COM).
--------------------------
YOU MAY NOT SELL THE PATTERN. IT IS ALSO PROHIBITED TO ALTER THE INSTRUCTIONS,
MAKE TRANSLATIONS AND DISTRIBUTE IT ON PAPER OR ELECTRONICALLY.

Finished size - about 27 cm (10.5 inches) if using similar yarn

Skill level: intermediate

Supplies
1. Yarn – the example of the cat is crocheted using DK / 8 ply weight Drops Cotton Light (50 %
cotton, 50 % polyester; 50 g / 105 m)
Color A – white
Color B – purple
 Color C – green
Color D – gray
Color E – pink
2. Crochet hook 3 mm (or according to the yarn you use)
3. 2 stitch markers
4. Polyester fiberfill
5. Safety eyes (Ø 6 mm)
8. 3 tiny buttons to embellish the dress
9. Cotton thread for stitching the nose and pockets
10. Darning and embroidery needle

Abbreviations
sl st - slip stitch ch - chain sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet dc - double crochet tr - treble crochet
st(s) - stitch(es) rep - repeat

About the pattern

Work in continuous rounds. Do not join or turn unless otherwise instructed.
In amigurumi most of the pieces begin with a magic ring. If you don`t want to use that, you
can easily start by chaining 2 and working the stitches of the first round (mostly 6 sc) in the
second stitch from hook. After that continue to round 2.
Use a stitch marker and place it in the first stitch of the round to mark the beginning of it.
Move the marker up to the first stitch of the next round after finishing the previous one.
If you need to change color, do it always at the end of the previous round. Start the last
2
stitch of the round with the current color in use. Change to the new color right before you
draw through all loops on the hook to complete the last stitch.
I advise using the invisible sc decrease to achieve a smoother surface. In the place where
you need to decrease insert your hook in the front loop of the stitch (do not yarn over),
insert the hook in the front loop of the next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and
draw through all (2) loops on hook.
When finishing an amigurumi piece there is a difference between the height of the
beginning and the end of the last round. That makes sewing the pieces together more
difficult. To smooth this out, crochet an extra slip stitch, then ch 1 and after cutting the yarn
pull the yarn tail out of the next stitch.
You can easily sew the toy together by leaving a long tail of yarn on each piece.

Stitch explanation
Decrease (sc2tog) - Insert hook into st and draw up a loop. Insert hook into next st and draw up a
loop. Yarn over, draw through all 3 loops on hook.
Treble crochet (tr) - Yarn over hook twice and insert your hook in the next stitch, yarn over hook
and pull through the stitch (you have 4 loops on hook). (Yarn over hook and pull through two loops
on hook) rep 3 times until there`s only 1 loop on hook.
Backstitch – Bring the threaded needle up from the back of the crochet fabric. Make a single,
straight stitch. *Bring the needle out one stitch ahead and insert it back down into the same hole
at the end of the stitch previously made.* Repeat from * to * as many times as necessary.

Copyright © 2018 Pattern by Mari-Liis Lille

 Find my amigurumi tips and tutorials at my homepage
www.lilleliis.com

PATTERN
HEAD AND BODY
Crocheted in one piece from top to bottom.
1: Color A. Start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
2: Work 2 sc in each st around [12]
3: (Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [18]
4: (Sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [24]
5: (Sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [30]
6: (Sc in each of next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [36]
7-9: Sc in each st around
Mark the first stitch of round 9 with a stitch marker, so you can position the safety eyes more
easily later on.
10: (Sc in each of next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [42]
11-14: Sc in each st around
15: (Sc in each of next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [48]
16-17: Sc in each st around

Insert the safety eyes between rounds 9 and 10. Count 3 stitches from the beginning of the round
3
marked and insert the safety eye in the next stitch space. Attach the second eye 4 stitches further.
Close the washers on the inside of the work.

18: Color B. Sc in each st around

19: Color C. Working in the back loops only, sc in each st around

Copyright © 2018 Pattern by Mari-Liis Lille

20-21: Sc in each st around
22: (Sc in each of next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [54]
23-36 (14 rounds): Sc in each st around

4
37: Working in the front loops only, (sc in next st, work 4 dc in next st, skip next st) rep 18 times.

Copyright © 2018 Pattern by Mari-Liis Lille

Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing. Pull the yarn tail through the last stitch.

Stuff the piece. Flatten the body so that the yarn tail remains in the right corner.

5
Close the opening using the back loops of the previous round that were left unworked. Make sure
you have enough stuffing in both corners of the dress.

Copyright © 2018 Pattern by Mari-Liis Lille

EAR (make 2)
1: Color A. Start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
2: (Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) rep 3 times [9]
3: (Sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 3 times [12]
4: Sc in each st around
5: (Sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 3 times [15]
6: Sc in each st around

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The ears do not need to be stuffed.
Flatten the ears and sew them to the head skipping about 2-3 rounds on either side of the starting
point at the top of the head.

LEG (make 2)
Make the first leg in color B. Make the second leg in color D, working rounds 9-10 and 13-14 in 6
color B.
1: Start 7 sc in a magic ring [7]
2: Work 2 sc in each st around [14]
3-30 (28 rounds): Sc in each st around

Start filling the leg after working a few rounds. Continue adding stuffing as the work progresses.
Fill the upper part slightly softer.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Flatten the legs and sew them closed with a few stitches.

Copyright © 2018 Pattern by Mari-Liis Lille

Sew the legs to the body. Thread the yarn tail through the needle and pull it through the leg using
the stitches above the seam you just made, then pull it vertically through the stitches of the closing
seam of the dress. Repeat. Finish the seam with a secure knot.

BOW
Color B. Start with a magic ring. *Ch 3, work 4 tr into the ring.

Copyright © 2018 Pattern by Mari-Liis Lille

Ch 3, sl st in the ring.

Rep once more starting from *.

Pull the ring tightly together. Leave a long yarn tail and cut the yarn. Wrap it a couple of times
around the center of the bow and fix with a knot on the back side.

Attach the bow at the color change on the dress.

ARM (make 2)
1: Color A. Start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]
2: Work 2 sc in each st around [10]
3-20 (18 rounds): Sc in each st around

After working a few rounds fill the tip of the arm. Continue adding stuffing as the work
progresses. Fill the upper part of the arm slightly softer.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Flatten the arms and sew them closed with a few stitches.

Copyright © 2018 Pattern by Mari-Liis Lille

Sew the arms to the body between rounds 18 and 19 where the color change. Attach the right arm
behind the bow. Use the same technique for attaching as for the legs, only now you will move
horizontally from one stitch space to the other on the body. Finish the seam with a secure knot.

Stitch a triangle nose at round 11. Then embroider a small curved mouth.

Copyright © 2018 Pattern by Mari-Liis Lille

CHEEK (make 2)
1: Color E. Work 9 hdc in a magic ring, pull the yarn through the last stitch.
Thread the yarn tail and pull from front to back through the first hdc.

10
Then pull it from back to front through the last hdc of the round.

Sew the cheeks onto the face.

Copyright © 2018 Pattern by Mari-Liis Lille

Add 3 tiny buttons to the dress.

Embroider the pockets on either side of the dress using backstitch. Use the twisting method to 11
make the embroidered lines bolder and smoother. Go back where you started the pocket and start
twisting the thread around the stitches made. Move smoothly from stitch to stitch to integrate
them into one longer line.

And your Rag doll cat is finished!

TIP! It`s easier to do
twisting with a blunt
end needle.

Copyright © 2018 Pattern by Mari-Liis Lille

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:
If you have any trouble with this pattern, you find errors or want to give feedback, please feel free
to contact me at lilleliis@gmail.com.
If you want to improve your technical skills please take the time to check my Amigurumi Tips and
Tutorials: http://www.lilleliis.com/tips-and-tutorials/
I would be more than happy if you`d share the photo of your finished item with me. You can do it
either in Instagram by adding a hashtag #lilleliispattern, in our Flickr group called
WeHeartLilleliisPatterns (https://www.flickr.com/groups/we_heart_lilleliis_patterns), via email or 12
Facebook message.
Help me fight against the misuse of my copyright. If you find this pattern being shared anywhere
else other than my official shops at lilleliis.com, etsy.com or amigurumipatterns.net, please contact
me immediately at lilleliis@gmail.com.

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Copyright © 2018 Pattern by Mari-Liis Lille