BMW 3 E46 door lock 51217011241

Door lock actuators for BMW E46.

Sedan, Wagon (Touring) up to 09/2000
51217011305 Front Driver's Side (Left)
51217011306 Front Driver's Side (Right - RHD)
51217011307 Front Passenger Side (Left - RHD)
51217011308 Front Passenger Side (Right)
51227011309 Rear Left
51227011310 Rear Right

Sedan, Wagon (Touring) from 09/2000, Swivel handle

51217011241 Front Driver's Side (Left)
51217011242 Front Driver's Side (Right - RHD)
51217011243 Front Passenger Side (Left - RHD)
51217011244 Front Passenger Side (Right)
51227011245 Rear Left
51227011246 Rear Right

Coupe & Convertible up to 09/2000

51218208711 Driver's Side (Left)
51218208712 Driver's Side (Right - RHD)
51218208715 Passenger Side (Left - RHD)
51218208716 Passenger Side (Right)

Coupe & Convertible from 09/2000, Swivel handle

51217011247 Driver's Side (Left)
51217011248 Driver's Side (Right - RHD)
51217011249 Passenger Side (Left - RHD)
51217011250 Passenger Side (Right)

Remember the US is LHD-Left Hand Drive. Australia, Japan, U.K. are RHD.

www.getbmwparts.com seem to have the best price on actuators. Last time I

checked they were $132.90. ECSTuning.com had them for $138.06
and Pelican parts has them for $170.50.

I've known the actuator on my 99 323i was going out for a long time. I finally
got around to doing the replacement and starter a web page on how to do it.
It's not done, but, here is the start of it. E46 Door Lock Actuator
Replacement Sorry it's not done so skip to the bottom of this page for DIYs
that I've found on the various BMW forums.
Once that is done you can remove the actuator module. It may be necessary to unbolt one 10mm bolt to
loosen the bottom of the window track so it can be swung out of the way to allow the actuator to pass it
and come out of the hole.

Once the actuator is out you need to remove the only 3 phillips screws from the exterior of it. Then pry
the two halves of the plastic case apart by unclipping the clips around it one by one while prying the
case apart all the way around. You will also need to use a razor blade to cut along the seam where some
foam rubber is on the exterior of the door latch mechanism so the two halves will be able to separate.
Then you slide the latch mechanism (metal latch part) out of the actuator housing (plastic part).

BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN SEPARATING THE TWO HALVES OF THE PLASTIC CASE!

There are a few levers, gears, and springs inside that can just pop out if you aren't careful and then you
have to spend an hour trying to figure out how they were in there like I had to do on the rear cargo door
actuator which is a little different than the driver's door actuator which I did first.

Once it's apart it will look like this:

Agora você precisa remover o motor. Só levanta fora juntamente com o equipamento anexado a dela
eixo. Existem dois contatos de metal pequeno que fica na parte inferior do motor, que é como as coisas
se poder. Só levantá-la do seu lugar e será desconectado desses conectores. Agora, você pode deslizar a
engrenagem do eixo do motor.

Você pode estar pensando que você só pode comprar um novo motor da Toyota mas liguei e eles não
vendem o motor pequeno, apenas um módulo novo atuador inteira. Também chamado de um lugar de
eletrônicos e eles foram incapazes de ajudar com um motor de substituição. Os números do motor são
bastante inúteis para o motor de cruzadas e encontrar um substituto. Não tem problema, você pode
apenas conserte gratuitamente em para que o tempo que demora para ir para o revendedor e voltar de
qualquer forma.

Here's the motor taken apart:

Para chegar a este ponto, você precisa tirar duas pequenas abas metálicas que fazem parte do motor
caso que são dobrados em para segurar a tampa de plástico na extremidade do motor. Tive que apertar
suavemente o motor em um torno de bancada e então eu usei uma pequena chave de fenda plana
laminada para dobrar as abas para fora. Uma vez que eles são ambos para fora, a vontade de cap
deslizou e as três partes vão desmoronar. Você deve ter cuidado quando deslizamento final que vai para
a tampa de plástico para fora como existem contatos elétricos chamado pincéis lá dentro que são
delicadas.
Você pode ver abaixo as escovas. Eles são os blocos na extremidade dos braços de mola de metal que
pressioná-los contra os contatos de cobre sobre o comutador (eixo do motor). Como eu disse
anteriormente, você pode limpar estas com um q-TIP para obter qualquer corrosão ou poeira do rosto
deles que toca os contatos de cobre do motor.
Here's a shot of the copper contacts after they have been cleaned. I didn't get a shot of them when they
were dirty but just picture them black and covered in corrosion. Nasty.
I took off the little, tiny washer on the copper contact side of the shaft in order to clean the contacts
easier but if you choose to take it off, be careful not to lose it.
Now that you've just fixed the root of the problem of your door locks not working, you can put it all back
together. I didn't take photos of this process and won't do a step by step on the assembly because if you
were mechanically inclined enough to successfully get this far, you will have no problem putting things
back the way you found them. Just reverse the order of all of the above. I will mention though that I had
to use a screw driver and a hammer to bend the tabs back in on the metal casing of the motor to hold it
all together again.

I hope this is useful to some of you as a free alternative to replacing the entire actuator. It would have
been easier to replace the actuator but at $317 each, I opted for the extra few steps it took to fix the
motor since I had two actuators out.
I finally got the think cracked open. Let me tell you, it wasn't easy.

One of the motors is for the double lock and one is for the single lock. I
haven't figured out which is which yet. The connections from the connector to
the motors is molded into the plastic. The motors pop right off two metal
terminals sticking up out of the plastic. I looked all over for the hall effect
sensors that detect the lock cylinder position, but, sold not find them. I think
they are molded into the plastic.
Actuator Pinout
Pin Signal Function
1 MVRFT Motor, Lock
2 MZS Motor, Secure Lock
3 --- Not Used
4 Ground Ground
5 MER Motor, Unlock (Common)
6 ERFT Signal from key position sensor - Unlock
7 VRFT Signal from key position sensor - Lock
8 TKFT Signal from door open sensor
There is a DIY for replacing the front actuator on a coupe here
on M3Forum.net thread 242785

Another for replacing the

actuator http://www.e46toronto.ca/forums/showthread.php?8893

And another for replacing the

actuator http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=600213
Here is a DIY for replacing the lock
cylinderhttp://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=736988

Solution - remove two nuts on top and bottom of window track and take E8
socket (T-30 torx female socket) and loosen the rear window mount - this bolt
is reverse thread (turn clockwise to loosen). This allows the bottom of the
window track to be pushed forward allowing just enough space to remove and
reinstall new lock mechanism - can be done!
Before closing the door with the new actuator you need to perform the
adjustment for the release handle and test the mechanism.