Complete CBLM

COMPETENCY-BASED
LEARNING MATERIAL
Sector:
GARMENTS
Qualification:
DRESSMAKING NC II
Unit of Competency:
DRAFT AND CUT PATTERN FOR
CASUAL APPAREL
Tarlac Center for Learning and Skills Success
TCLASS
DRESSMAKING NC II
Date Developed: Issued by:
January 2023 TCLASS
COMPETENCY BASED
LEARNING MATERIAL Develop By:
Page 1 of 183
Alicia A. Pangan
HOW TO USE THIS MODULE
This learning material is designed to you in learning at

your own pace. To start with, talk with your trainer and
agree on how you will both organize the training for this module. Most probably
your trainer will also be your supervisor or manager. He/she is there to support you
and guide you the correct way to do things. From time to time you will be required to
practice and demonstrate the skills that you’ve learn
In this module you will be requiring some assistance from your trainer (as
instructed in the learning materials.
To proceed with the learning session you just have guide go through the Learning
Activity Sheet where in you will follow series of learning instructions towards
attaining the learning outcome.
This module covers the knowledge, skills and attitudes required in drafting
and cutting basic/block patterns for ladies casual apparel.
The lesson deals with the client’s job requirements in accordance with standard
operating procedure such as the preparation of garment design. It also includes
selection of designs and fabrics and incorporation of special needs of clients in the
design based on procedure, take clients body measurements. Drafting and cutting
pattern for casual apparel .
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Dressmaking
COMPETENCY-BASED LEARNING MATERIALS
List of Competencies
No. Unit of Competency Module Title Code
Drafting and cutting

Draft and cut pattern of GRM743301
1. pattern of casual
casual apparel
apparel
Preparing and cut

Prepare and cut materials GRM743302
2. materials of casual
of casual apparel
apparel
Sew casual apparel GRM743303
3. Sewing casual apparel
Apply finishing touches Apply finishing touches GRM743304

4.
on casual apparel on casual apparel
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MODULE CONTENT
UNIT OF COMPETENCY: Draft and Cut Pattern of Casual Apparel
MODULE TITLE : Drafting And Cutting Pattern of Casual apparel
MODULE DESCRIPTOR
This unit covers the outcomes required in drafting cutting basic/block patterns
for casual apparel. It included the requirements for Planning garment designs, taking
body measurement, drafting basic/block pattern cutting final pattern.
NOMINAL DURATION: 80 Hrs.
LEARNING OUTCOMES:
At the end of this module you MUST be able to:
1. Plan garments design

2. Take Clients Body Measurements
3. Draft and Cut Pattern
4. Manipulate Cut Pattern
5. Cut Final pattern
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
1. Customer’s job requirements are determined in accordance with

company’s practice.
2. Garment design is prepared in accordance with the client’s
requirements
3. Design and fabric are discussed and selected according to client’s
specifications.
4. Special needs of the client are incorporated into the design based on
procedures.
5. Measuring tools are prepared are accordance with the job
requirements.
6. Body measurements are taken based on procedures.
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7. Body measurements of clients is taken in sequence according to
job requirements and standards of body measurements
8. Body measurements is recorded in line in the company
9. Drafting pattern tools are selected in accordance
with job requirements
10. Basic/Block pattern is drafted using appropriate tools and
customer’s .
specifications
11. Drafted basic/block is checked for accuracy against
customer’s specifications
12. Block pattern is laid out in accordance with company
procedures.
13. Block pattern is manipulated in accordance with customer’s
specifications.
14. Final pattern is labeled, filed and secured as per standard
operating procedure
15. Tools for cutting patterns are selected in accordance with job
requirements.
16. .Pattern is cut in accordance with customer’s specifications.
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LEARNING OUTCOME NO. 3
Draft basic /block pattern
Contents:
● Selection of Pattern Tools
● Procedures in Drafting Block Pattern
Assessment Criteria
1. Drafting pattern tools are selected in accordance with job requirements

2. Basic/Block pattern is drafted using appropriate tools and customer’s
specifications.
3. Drafted basic/block is checked for accuracy against customer’s
specifications .
Conditions
The participants will have access to:
● Pencil
● Tailor’s Chalk
● Pattern Paper
● Pencil
● Triangle
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● Hip Curve
● Ruler with Grid
● French Curve
● Procedure Manual
Assessment Method:
1. Demonstration
2. Interview
3. Written
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Learning Experiences
Learning Outcome 1
Draft and Cut Pattern for casual apparel
Learning Activities Special Instructions

Read information sheet
3.1-1 on Types of Drafting tools Read and comprehend the information sheet.
Check yourself by answering the self-check
Answer Self check 1.3-1 on Types of
Drafting tools
Compare answers with the answer key
Read information sheet 3.1-2

Read and comprehend the information sheet.
On Procedure in Drafting basic/block Check yourself by answering the self-check
pattern
Answer Self Check 3.1-2
On Drafting basic/block pattern
Compare answers with the answer key
Do Task Sheet 3.1-2 on Procedure in

Drafting basic/block pattern
Compare Performance to Performance

checklists
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Information Sheet 1.3-1
Types OF Drafting Tools
Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
.
1. Drafting pattern tools are selected in accordance with job
requirements.
2. Basic/Block pattern is drafted using appropriate tools and
customer’s
Specifications.
3.Drafted basic/block is checked for accuracy against customer’s
specifications .
The lesson deals with the drafting tools, drafting basic/block pattern
and checking of pattern in accordance with the job requirements and
customer’s specification.
Basic pattern is the “starting point” for Flat-Pattern Designing. It is a
simple pattern that fits the body with just enough ease for freedom of
movement. The basic pattern has five pieces: bodice front, bodice back, skirt
front, skirt back and sleeve. The basic pattern is sometimes called a
master or foundation pattern. The drafted pattern is referred to
as the block.
Words to Study
Draft – a pattern sketch made by following the body measurements

Pattern – are devices used by dressmakers as guide when cutting an
article or garment
IMC – stands for Individual Measurement Chart
Drafting – an engineering type method based on a set of body
measurement
Measurement –foundation of pattern drafting
Perpendicular line –composed of two lines meeting in a right angle
Drafted pattern – made to order using individual’s measurement
Commercial pattern – made using standard measurement of average
women
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A perfect fit requires perfect measurements of the body, pattern and
fabric. Accurate measuring tools are essential for accurate pattern drafting. Do
you still remember your tools in dressmaking? This lesson will refresh your
knowledge on the use of measuring devices. The skillful use of these devices
will help take body measurements and drafting of patterns with accuracy and
speed.
Types of Drafting Tools
A. L-Square
Divides the garment into the desired measurement It perfects
squares and is useful in making straight lines and numbers. It
can also function like a tape measure. It has two arms
connected perpendicularly.
1. The longer arm is twenty-four (24) inches long.
2. The shorter arm is fourteen (14) inches long
Characteristic of the Longer Arm L-Square
1. In front of the longer arm, there are six (6) different columns. The
numbers found in every column are equal.
2. The six (6) column parts are:
a. 1/24
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b. 1/12
c. 1/6
d. 1/3
e. 2/3
f. By inch or the 24 inches column
3. At the back are numbers made from 1 to 24 inches. At the corner
of the L-Square is an aluminum that holds the two arms in a 90
degree angle. Both ends of the L-Square are secured with metal
sheets.
Characteristics of the Shorter Arm
1. Starting from the corner of the short one we can observe the
following:
a. 1/32
b. 1/16
c. 1/8
d. 1/4
In other L-Square the shorter arm has 16th, 8th, 4th, ½ and by the
inches.
2. The back part of the arm contains a four-inch measurement.
The two arms are secured with a curved metal sheet on the
inner portion
B. The Hip Curve

This is used in connecting or shaping curve points. The
front part of the curve has a measure of inches. At the
back part is a measure of centimeters. It is marked
every five centimeters.
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Uses. This tool is used in connecting and shaping curve
points.
Characteristics. The front part of the curve has a measure
of inches. At the back is a measure of centimetres. It is marked
every five centimetres.
C. French Curve
This is used to shape the depth of the neck hole and arm
hole of the pattern
a. Uses. This is used to shape the depth of the neckhole and

armhole of the pattern.
b. Characteristics. There are two types of French curve:
i. Complex French Curve
ii. Standard French Curve
D. Ruler
Ruler aids in connecting lines. They are graduated in inches and
centimeter
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which are commonly made of either wood or plastic.
Uses. It is used for general marking. It aids in connecting lines.

Characteristics. The most useful sizes are 12” or 18” (30.5 cm
or 46 cm) long. They are graduated in inches and centimetre
which are commonly made of wood.
E.Yardstick
This is used for general marking and for measuring
fabric grainline when laying out the pattern. It should
be made of smooth, shellacked hardwood or metal.
c. Uses. It is used for general marking and for measuring fabric

grainline when laying out the pattern.
b .Characteristics. It is made of smooth, shellacked hardwood
metal.
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\\
E. Tape Measure
It has the flexibility required to take body
measurements. Select a 60” (150 cm) long tape with
metal tips, made of a material that will not stretch. It
should be reversible, with numbers and markings
printed on both sides.
Uses. It is used in
taking body
measurements.
Fiberglass tape is
commonly used by
professional
dressmakers.
Characteristics.
The front has the
measurement of
150 centimeters and 60”
on the other side.
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● Skirt marker
a. Uses. This is a useful tool for measuring hems heights accurately. It
provides much quicker method of marking hems than when a
yardstick is used.
b. Characteristics. It comes in various types – pin markers, chalk
markers, and combination pin-chalk markers. The pin marker gives
more accurate marking. Chalk marks tend to be thick and do not
come out of some fabrics.
F. See-Through T-Square
Is used to locate cross grains, alter patterns and
square off straight edges.
Uses. It is specially designed to locate cross grains, alter
patterns and square off straight edges.
Characteristics. It is usually made of wood
Seam gauge
c. Uses. This measuring tool helps make quick, accurate
measurements for hems, buttonholes, scallops and pleats.
d. Characteristics. It is a small, 6” (15 cm) metal or plastic ruler
with a sliding marker.
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Drafting Materials/ Marking Tools
1. Pattern Paper- Is an indispensable material used

for drafting
Patterns and marking or
transferring lines to
Fabrics.
2. Tailor’s chalk- Used to transfer the marks from
pattern to
Fabrics. A more expensive brand
functions better because it
stronger and works properly.
3. Pencil with eraser_ is helpful in marking pattern in
fabrics with
With light colors.
4. Sharpener - A tool used to sharpened pencil,
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Self -check
Multiple choice : Choose the letter of the correct answer and write it in your quiz
notebook.
1. Which devices are used to accurately draft patterns?

a. cutting tools
b. measuring/drafting tools
c. pressing tools
d. sewing tools
2. Which tool is best in shaping slight curves of the pattern?
a. French curve
b. hip curve
c. L- square
d. T –square
3. Which device used accurate measurement of hem, buttonholes,
scallops and pleats
a. Tape measure
b. Ruler
c. Hip curve
d. Seam gauge
4. Which tool is specially designed to locate cross grains, alter patterns
and square off straight edges.
a. Skirt marker
b. Seam gauge
c. Transparent ruler
d. Complex French curve
5. Which tool used in taking body measurements. Fiberglass tape is
commonly used by
professional dressmakers.
a. Tape measure
b. L- square
c. Hip curve
d. French curve
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Information sheet 1.3-1
Answer key
1.b
2.a
3.d
4.a
5.a
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Procedure in Drafting Basic/Block Pattern
.
1. Followed Salient Measure in drafting pattern
2. Prepared Individual Measurements Chart.
3 .Drafted basic/block is checked for accuracy against customer’s
specifications .
Salient Measures to Observe in Drafting Patterns
1. Be sure to have an accurate division of the measurement. Use L-

square.
2. Use the aid of a hip curve if necessary.
3. Always use the L-square or ruler in making lines.
4. French curve is necessary in shaping the neckline as well as that of the
armhole to produce a perfect curve.
5. Use weights or dressmaker’s pins so that the pattern will be moved.
Kinds of Pattern
1. Block Pattern – made by drafting from the measurements which have

been carefully taken from an individual or from a model.
2. Construction pattern – the intervening step between the block and the
final pattern. Designs are complicated, construction patterns are
sectioned.
3. Final pattern – provided with the necessary symbols that will guide
the cutter on how to lay out the pattern on the cloth. Symbols for darts,
seam allowances, grainline, center fold, and notches and other markers
are used
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Drafting the Basic Pattern
A. Drafting Tools:
● Tape measure
● L-square
LET US REMEMBER
A perfect fit requires perfect measurement of body, pattern and

fabric. Accurate measuring tools are essential for accurate sewing so be
sure you have the ones you need.
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Self -check
Multiple choice : Choose the letter of the correct answer and write it in your quiz
notebook.
5. Which devices are used to accurately draft patterns?

a. cutting tools
b. measuring/drafting tools
c. pressing tools
d. sewing tools
6. Which tool is best in shaping slight curves of the pattern?
a. French curve
b. hip curve
c. L- square
d. T –square
7. Which device used accurate measurement of hem, buttonholes,
scallops and pleats
a. Tape measure
b. Ruler
c. Hip curve
d. Seam gauge
8. Which tool is specially designed to locate cross grains, alter patterns
and square off straight edges.
a. Skirt marker
b. Seam gauge
c. Transparent ruler
d. Complex French curve
5. Which tool used in taking body measurements. Fiberglass tape is
commonly used by
professional dressmakers.
e. Tape measure
f. L- square
g. Hip curve
h. French curve
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Answer key
1.b
2.a
3.d
4.a
5.a
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Procedure in Drafting Basic/Block Pattern
.
1. Followed Salient Measure in drafting pattern
2. Prepared Individual Measurements Chart.
3 .Drafted basic/block is checked for accuracy against customer’s
specifications .
Salient Measures to Observe in Drafting Patterns
6. Be sure to have an accurate division of the measurement. Use L-

square.
7. Use the aid of a hip curve if necessary.
8. Always use the L-square or ruler in making lines.
9. French curve is necessary in shaping the neckline as well as that of the
armhole to produce a perfect curve.
10. Use weights or dressmaker’s pins so that the pattern will be moved.
Kinds of Pattern
4. Block Pattern – made by drafting from the measurements which have

been carefully taken from an individual or from a model.
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5. Construction pattern – the intervening step between the block and the
final pattern. Designs are complicated, construction patterns are
sectioned.
6. Final pattern – provided with the necessary symbols that will guide
the cutter on how to lay out the pattern on the cloth. Symbols for darts,
seam allowances, grainline, center fold, and notches and other markers
are used
Drafting the Basic Pattern
B. Drafting Tools:
● Tape measure
● L-square
● Hip curve
● French curve
● Transparent ruler
● Pencil
● Eraser
● Scissor
● sharpener
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C. Body Measurement Needed
Individual Measurement Chart
Name: Date:
Actual Body Measur Computed

Body Parts Measurement ement Measureme
Needed nt Needed
Inches Centimetres (divisor) Inches
Centimetres
Girth measurements
(Horizontal measurements)
● Shoulder 15 38.1 2 7.5 19.0

6½ 16.51 2 3.25 5
● Bust point width 34 86.36 4 8.5 8.22
25 63.5 4 6.25 5
● Bust 30 76.2 4 7.5 21.5
34 86.36 4 8.5 9
● Waist
15 38.1 2 7.5 15.8
● First hip 10 ½ 26.67 2 5.25 75
19.0
● Second hip 5
21.5
● Armhole 15 38.1 1 15 9
15 ½ 39.37 1 15 ½ 19.0
● Arm girth
8½ 21.59 2 4.25 5
8 20.32 1 8 13.3
Length measurements 22 55.88 1 22 35
(Vertical measurements)
● Back figure
● Front figure 38.1

39.3
● Bust point height
7
● Length of sleeve 10.7
95
● Length of skirt 20.3
2
55.8
8
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D. Drafting the Back and Front Basic Pattern
Get one-half sheet of pattern

paper. Construct a back and front
bodice pattern.
Draw perpendicular line T

● 1-2 =3/4 inch (2cm) down
● 1-3 = 4 inches (10 cm)
● 1-4 = 5 ½ inches (14 cm)
● 2-5 = bust point height

measure
● 1-6 = back figure
● 2-7 = front figure
● 8 is the middle of 2 and 7
● Square out 2, 4, 8, 5 and 7 to the right
● Square out 4, 8, and 6 to the left.
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9B 19 8B 1
2
10B 22
21
3
20
4
11B
13B 8
12B
18B 5
15B 17B 16B 6
14B
7
Back Bodice
● 1-8B ½ back neck or 2 ½ inches (6.5 cm) to 2.9 inches (7.5 cm).
Connect 8B to 2 with a French curve
● 1-9B = ½ shoulder + 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Square down 9B
● 9B – 10B – 1 3/8 inches (3.5 cm). Connect 8B to 10B
● 4-11B = ½ shoulder minus 5/8 inch (1.5 cm)
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● 8-12B = ¼ bust + 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect 10B, 11B and 12B
with a French curve
● 8-13B = ½ bust point width
● 6-14B = ½ bust point width. Connect 13B to 14B
● 6-15B = ¼ waist + 1 1/8 inches (3 cm). connect 12B to 15B
● 14B – 16B = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect 16B-18B and 17B-18B.
● 14B - 17B = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect 16B-18B and 17B-18B.
● 13B - 18B = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect 16B-18B and 17B-18B.
● 19 = is the middle of 8B and 10B. Square down 19
● 20 = 3 inches (7.5 cm). 21-19, 22-19 = ¼ inch (0.5 cm). Connect

22 to 20 and 21 to 20.
● Fold 16B over 17B
● Connect 6 to 15B
● Fold 22 over 21
● Connect 8B to 10B
● Measure 12B and 15B (side length)
● Side length of back and front bodice should be equal.
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Front Bodice
9B 19 8B
1
2 8F 9F
10B 22
21
10F
20 3
11B 4 11F
13B 8 12F
12B 13F
18B
B 5 22F
18F 19F
21F
20F
17B 16B 6
15B
16F 17F
15F
14B 7
45
14F
● 2-8F = ½ back neck or 6.5 to 7.5 cm
● 2-9F = ½ shoulder. Square down 9F
● 9F – 10F = 4.5 cm. connect 8F to 10F
● 4-11F = ½ shoulder minus ¾ inch (2 cm).
● 8 – 12F = ¼ bust + 1 inch (2.5 cm). Connect 10F, 11F, and 12F
with a French curve
● 5-13F = ½ bust point width
● 7-14F = ½ bust point width. Connect 13F to 14F
● 7-15F = ¼ waist + 4cm. Connect 12F to 15F with dotted line.
● 14F – 16F = ¾
14F – 17F = ¾ inch (2cm).
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● 13F – 18F =5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect 16F-18F, 17F to 18F
● 12F – 19F = 3 1/5 inches (8 cm).
● 19 F – 20F = difference of 6 and 7
● 21 – middle of 19F and 20 F. Connect 21F and 13F
● 13F – 22F = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect 19F to 20F to 22F (side
dart)
● Fold 20F over 19F
● Connect 12F and 15F with a straight line
● Fold 16F over 17F
● Connect 7F to 15F
● 12F – 15F with a dart closed = 12B – 15B of back bodice (side
length)
E. Drafting the Back and Front Skirt Basic

Pattern
Get one-half sheet of pattern paper.
Construct a back skirt basic pattern.
Draw perpendicular line T.
● 1-2 = 3/8 inch (1 cm).
● 1-3 = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm).
● 1-4 = 7 inches (18 cm) to 8 ¾ inches

(22 cm).
● 1-5 = skirt length
● 1-6 = middle of 1 and 4
● Square out 3, 6, 4, and 5 to the right
● Square out 2, 6, 4, and 5 to the left
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13 10 12
7B 1
B B
1
2
3
6
11B
8B 4
9B 5
Back Skirt
● 1-7B = ¼ waist + 1.2 inches (3 cm)
● 4-8B = ¼ second hip + 3/8 inch (1 cm)
● 5-9B = ¼ second hip + 3/8 inch (1cm)
● 1-10B = ½ bust point width. Square down 10B
● 10B-11B = 5 ½ inches (14 cm) to 6 inches (15 cm)
● 10B-12B = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm).
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● 10B-13B = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect 12B and 13B to 11B
● Fold 12B over 13B and connect 2 to 7B with a hip curve.
● Connect 7B to 8B with a hip curve
● Connect 8B to 9 B with a straight line
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9B 5 9F
14
● Front Skirt Square down 10B
● 1-7F = ¼ waist + 1 ½ inches (4 cm).
● 4-8F = ¼ second hip + 5/8 inch (1.5 cm).
● 5-9F = ¼ second hip + 5/8 inch (1.5 cm).
● 1-10F = ½ bust point width. Square down 10F.
● 10F-11F =5 ¼ inches (13 cm) to 5 ½ inches (14cm).
● 10F-12F= ¾ inch (2 cm).
● 11F –13F = ¾ inch (2 cm). Connect 12F and 13F to 11F
● Fold 12F over 13F and connect 3 to 7F with a hip curve
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3
● Connect 7F to 8F with a hip curve 6

● Connect
2 8F to 9 F with a straight line
● 5 to 14 = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect 14 to 9F with a hip curve
F.
Drafting the sleeve basic pattern

Get one-fourth sheet of pattern paper. Construct a sleeve. Place the
centerline on a folded pattern paper.
● 1-2 = sleeve length 7 ½ inches (19 cm) to 7 ¾ inches (20cm)
● 1-3 = 4 ½ inches (12 cm)
● Square points 3 and 2 to the right
● 1-4 = 3/8 inch (1 cm)
● 4-5 = ½ armhole measure
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● 2-6 = ½ lower arm girth + 3/8 inch (1 cm)
● Connect 5 to 6 and 4 to 5
● Divide line 4-5 into 4 equal parts and mark 7, 8, 9
● 7-10 raise 5/8 inch (1.5 cm)
● 9-11 lower 5/8 inch (1.5 cm)
● Connect 4, 10, 8 with a French curve
● Connect 5, 12, 8 with a French curve (for front sleeve cap)
● 8-12 =1/4 inch (0.5 cm).
● 13 – center of 11 and 9
● Connect 10, 12, 13, and 5 for back sleeve cap line with a dotted
line
● Cut off in the dotted line for back sleeve pattern
● Cut off 12 to 5 and 6 to 5
● Open the sleeve and cut 5, 11, 8 to 10 for front sleeve pattern
Back Front
Sleeve Sleeve
After drafting the basic pattern check it correctly and accurately,

especially the: (1) Measurement and (2) Parts of pattern pieces; and then,
cut the basic pattern following the cutting lines smoothly.
DRESSMAKING NC II
January 2023 TCLASS
COMPETENCY BASED
Page 36 of 183
Alicia A. Pangan
LET US REMEMBER
The foundation pattern is a perfectly plain one piece dress

or waist fitted to the figure as dictated by the current style.
It is based in the measurement of one individual.
A foundation pattern is a guide or basis in the
construction and manipulation of flat pattern designing.
Pattern drafting can be done well if you use the proper
DRESSMAKING NC II
January 2023 TCLASS
COMPETENCY BASED
Page 37 of 183
Alicia A. Pangan
Self –check 1.3-2
Multiple choice : Choose the letter of the correct answer and write it in your
quiz notebook.
1. Kinds of pattern made by drafting from the measurements which have been
carefully taken from an individual or from a model.
a. Block Pattern
b. Final Pattern
c. Commercial Pattern
d. All of the above
2. Kinds of pattern the intervening step between the block and the final pattern.
Design are complicated, construction patterns are sectioned.
a. Block Pattern
b. Final Pattern
c. Commercial pattern
d. Pattern Paper
3. In drafting foundation line of basic bodice 2- 5 measurement is?
a. Bust height
b. Bust
c. Bust point width
d. waist
4. In drafting foundation line of basic bodice the 2-7 measurement is?
a. Bust point height
b. Bust
c. Bust point width
d. Hips
5.In drafting the foundation line of basic skirt 1-2 is what measurement?
a. 1 cm
b. 2 cm
c. 3 cm
d. 4 cm
DRESSMAKING NC II
January 2023 TCLASS
COMPETENCY BASED
Page 38 of 183
Alicia A. Pangan
Answer Key
1.a
2.c
3.a
4.c
5.a
DRESSMAKING NC II
January 2023 TCLASS
COMPETENCY BASED
Page 39 of 183
Alicia A. Pangan
TASK SHEET 1.3-2
Title:
Drafting Basic/ Block Pattern
Performance Objective: Given the tools materials and devices, you should be able to
draft basic /block pattern(with your individual measurements)
draft them following safety standards and procedure.
Supplies/Materials: Tape measure, L-square, Ruler, French curve, pencil

Pattern paper, note pad .scissor. sharpener, eraser
Equipment :
Steps/Procedure:
1. Take body measurement accurately.
2. Prepare tools and materials in drafting Foundation Line of Pattern Drafting
3. Draft pattern based on the given measurements
4. Follow step by step procedure in drafting Foundation Line of pattern drafting
5. Connect lines by using the drafting tools.
6. Check lines and measurements of Foundation Line .
7. Check parts of pattern following the lines carefully.
Assessment Method:
Demonstration with oral questioning
DRESSMAKING NC II
January 2023 TCLASS
COMPETENCY BASED
Page 40 of 183
Alicia A. Pangan
Performance Criteria Checklist 1.3-2
CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you….
1. Observe OHS before and during and after drafting

Personal
Workplace
Devices
2. Obtain devices of measuring, drafting and cutting tools.
3. Follow correct position and sequence in taking
measurement
4. Select tools and materials in drafting basic/block
pattern.
5. Follow the correct procedure in drafting basic pattern.
6. Manipulate cut final pattern.
7. Cut final pattern with/without seam allowance.
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DRESSMAKING NC Date Developed:

II April 28,2014 Issued by:
Date Revised:
March 10, 2020
PGT TCLASS
Developed by: Page 41 of 183
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PANGAN
Revision # 01
Sector:
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GARMENTS
Qualification:
DRESSMAKING NC II
Unit of Competency:
PREPARE AND CUT MATERIALS FOR
CASUAL APPAREL
TCLASS

Date Revised:
March 10, 2020
PGT TCLASS
ALICIA A.
PANGAN
Revision # 01
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COMPETENCY BASED LEARNING MATERIAL

Date Revised:
March 10, 2020
PGT TCLASS
ALICIA A.
PANGAN
Revision # 01
Prepare And Cut
Alicia Pangan

Date Revised:
March 10, 2020
PGT TCLASS
ALICIA A.
PANGAN
Revision # 01
This learning material is designed to you in learning at your own pace.

To start with, talk with your trainer and agree on how you will both organize
the training for this module. Most probably your trainer will also be your supervisor or
manager. He/she is there to support you and guide you the correct way to do things. From
time to time you will be required to practice and demonstrate the skills that you’ve learn
In this module you will be requiring some assistance from your trainer (as instructed in
the learning materials.
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Activity Sheet where in you will follow series of learning instructions towards attaining the
learning outcome.
This module covers the knowledge, skills and attitudes required in preparing and cut
materials for ladies casual apparel.
The lesson deals with the client’s job requirements in accordance with standard operating
procedure such as the preparation of fabric before cutting. It also includes lay outing and
marking fabrics ,procedure in pressing and incorporation of special needs of clients in the
design based on procedure

Date Revised:
March 10, 2020
PGT TCLASS
ALICIA A.
PANGAN
Revision # 01
Dressmaking
No. Unit of Competency Module Title

Code
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Draft and cut pattern of Drafting and cutting pattern GRM743301
1.
casual apparel of casual apparel
Prepare and cut materials Preparing and cut GRM743302

2.
of casual apparel materials of casual apparel
Sew casual apparel

GRM743303
Apply finishing touches on Apply finishing touches on GRM743304

4.
casual apparel casual apparel

Date Revised:
March 10, 2020
PGT TCLASS
ALICIA A.
PANGAN
Revision # 01
UNIT OF COMPETENCY : PREPARE AND CUT
FOR CASUAL APPAREL
MODULE TITLE : Preparing and Cutting

Materials for Casual Apparel
MODULE DESCRIPTION : This module covers the

knowledge, skills and attitudes
required in preparing and cutting
materials and accessories of casual
apparel. It includes the requirements
for preparing materials, lay-outing
and marking pattern on materials and
cutting materials.
NOMINAL DURATION : 40 Hours
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CERTIFICATE LEVEL
PREREQUISITE
:
:
NC II
LEARNING OUTCOMES:
Upon completion of this module the trainees/students must be able to:
LO 1. Prepare materials (fabric)
LO 2. Lay-out and mark pattern on material
LO 3. Cut materials

Date Revised:
March 10, 2020
PGT TCLASS
ALICIA A.
PANGAN
Revision # 01
LO 3. Cut materials
1. Garment style or design is interpreted in accordance with

customer’s specification.
2. Fabric is cut to meet design requirements and measurements
of the pattern.
3. Garment parts are checked for completeness in accordance
with specified garment design or styles.
CONTENTS:
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● Preparation of the fabric before cutting
● Fabric manufacturing and design
● Pattern lay-out and marking
● Procedure in cutting materials
CONDITIONS : Students/Trainees must be provided with the following:
● Cutting table
● Procedure Manual
● Pins
● Pattern Paper
● Tailor’s chalk

Date Revised:
March 10, 2020
PGT TCLASS
ALICIA A.
PANGAN
Revision # 01
● Cut block/final pattern
● Basin
● Fabric
● Tape measure
● Marking tools
● Cutting toos
METHODOLOGY :
● Self-paced/Modular
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● Group Discussion
ASSESSMENT METHOD :
● Demonstration
● Interview
● Written

Date Revised:
March 10, 2020
PGT TCLASS
ALICIA A.
PANGAN
Revision # 01
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Learning Outcome 3
PATTERN LAY OUT , PINNING AND MARKING ON THE MATERIALS

Date Revised:
March 10, 2020
PGT TCLASS
ALICIA A.
PANGAN
Revision # 01
This Learning outcome in pattern lay out

Read information sheet pinning, marking and cutting materials
2.3-1 on preparing fabrics before cutting your be able to perform .Provide this
Answer self check 2.3.1 complete Tools and materials
Compare answer with answer key CBLM
Fabric
Cutting equipment
Read information sheet 2.3-2 on preparation of fa
fabric before cutting
Cutting tools
Answer self check 2.3-2
Compare answer with answer key Follow Step and Procedure in pattern lay
out ,pinning ,marking and cutting
Read information
Sheet 2.3-2 on pattern lay out and marking
Complete your task as per Standard
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operation procedure (SOPs) and
company timeframe
Compare answer with answer key
Trainers evaluate your output as per
Perform task sheet 2.3-2 required CBT Standards is attained.
Check performance using performance

criteria
Read information sheet 2.3-3 procedure in
pressing
Perform task sheet 3.3-3Garment pressing
Evaluate performance using performance

criteria
Preparation of the fabric before cutting

Date Revised:
March 10, 2020
PGT TCLASS
ALICIA A.
PANGAN
Revision # 01
Learning Objectives After reading this INFORMATION SHEET,
YOU MUST be able to:
.
Collected and checked fabrics width and quality, faults selvedges are checked
according to instructions and appropriate actions are taken in accordance with work
requirements.
Fabric is checked for quality, width, , dye lot and marking requirement according to
workplace procedures.
Fabric is soaked/drip dried and pressed in accordance with standard fabric care.
prepared in accordance with job requirements.
Equipment and tools are prepared according to procedures.
Fabric is the basic material in making garments. In order to produce quality

products, there is a need to check it for faults. Use the checklist to help you
examine your fabric.
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Common Faults Found in Fabrics
✔ Yarn flaws - broken, missing, uneven, uncut wales
✔ Color changes - spotting, shading, rubbing off
✔ Misprinted pattern - off-grain, off-center
✔ Grease or oil spots
✔ Tears or cuts
✔ Sheds wrinkles - crush a corner to check for

wrinkling
✔ Over finished - brittle, stiff
✔ Oversized - white powder appears

when fabric is rubbed
✔ “Set” of grain - grain with permanent press
cannot be changed; avoid it off-square 1” or
more across width
Choosing Fabric

Date Revised:
March 10, 2020
PGT TCLASS
ALICIA A.
PANGAN
Revision # 01
A wide selection of fabrics in various textures and colors is available
today. When selecting a fabric for your project, it is important to take the
fabric’s fiber content, its texture (or “hand”), drape, color, and in some
instances and the size of its print, or its horizontal stretch, into account.
Once a piece of fabric is cut, it cannot be returned, and mistakes can be
costly.
The table below gives an information on the description, content and
commercial names of the fabrics available in the market.
Fabrics Fiber Content Commercial Names

Woven Fabrics Cotton
● Calico
Generally, medium- ● Chino
weight, woven fabrics
are easy to handle and ● Cotton Batiste
are the best choice for
beginners. Stiff and ● Cotton
bulky or fine fabrics Broadcloth
are more difficult to
● Cotton Corduroy
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sew with.
● Cotton Lawn
● Cotton Poplin
● Denim
● Gingham
● Linen
Microfiber Fabrics Silk

● Crepe de Chine
These are chemically ● Dupioni silk
produced filaments
from nylon and ● Habotai Silk
polyester. It is ( China Silk)
washable but they
tend to be heat ● Silk Organza
sensitive so care
should be taken when
pressing them.
Wool
● Camel Hair

Date Revised:
March 10, 2020
PGT TCLASS
ALICIA A.
PANGAN
Revision # 01
● Cashmere
● Wool Tartan
● Worsted Wool
● Woven Wool
Knitted Fabrics
● Natural wool ● Double Knit
It is constructed with ● Cotton ● Interlock knit
loops rather than warp
and weft threads being ● Various blends ● Spandex
woven together.
● Sweatsuit Fabric
● Tricot
Special Fabrics
● Wool ● Boucle
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Special occasion wear. ● Silk ● Chiffon
Makes use of the most
luxurious and ● Taffeta
expensive fabrics
constructed in a ● Velvet
variety of ways. ● Threads of silk,
cotton or ● Lace
synthetic fiber
● Satin
● Nylon
● Tulle
Chemical Fabric Finishes on the Label
Sanforized - a special mechanical process / treatment

so as to prevent shrinkage
Colorfast - retaining color of dye in faded when fabric
is subjected to the action of water
Crease- resistant- this process is permanent and renders fabric resistant to
crease
Permanent Press - this finish is permanent and endures
through many washing

Date Revised:
March 10, 2020
PGT TCLASS
ALICIA A.
PANGAN
Revision # 01
Handling Fabrics Before Cutting
The importance of fabric preparation is to preserve the fit of the finished

garment after washing.
Alicia Pangan

Date Revised:
March 10, 2020
PGT TCLASS
ALICIA A.
PANGAN
Revision # 01
Techniques in Preparing the Fabrics for Cutting:
A. Shrinking and soaking the fabric by laundering and drying
Washable fabrics can be pre-shrunk by laundering and drying. Pre –

shrunk washable fabric to prevent shrinkage later.
Procedure in Shrinking Washable Fabric
1. Fold the fabric lengthwise.

2. Immerse and soak the fabric in cold water (in large basin).
3. Let it stand for 30 to 60 minutes.
4. Remove it from the water. Do not wring nor dry the fabrics on the
clothesline.
5. Press the cloth when completely dry.
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B.Straightening the end of fabrics
This process is to draw the thread or grain of the material of the uneven
crosswise or lengthwise edges to make it straight.
How to Straighten the Ends of the Fabric
1. Clip the selvage on the shortest edge of the fabric.

2. Pick-up a loose crosswise threads and pull it out slowly.
3. Pull the thread all the way across the selvage.
4. Cut along a pulled thread.

Date Revised:
March 10, 2020
PGT TCLASS
ALICIA A.
PANGAN
Revision # 01
Alicia Pangan
C. Stretching the grains of fabrics
The process of pulling the cloth diagonally from one corner to the opposite
corner thus making the lengthwise to be right angle.
How to Stretch the Grain of Fabrics
1. Grasp opposite diagonal corners and pull.

2. Check to see if the fabric has been straightened.
3. Keep on pulling until the selvage comes together.
4. Smooth the material on the table and check if the fabric ends lie
even.

Date Revised:
March 10, 2020
PGT TCLASS
ALICIA A.
PANGAN
Revision # 01
4. Pressing
The process of removing wrinkles and creases in fabric by using the flat
iron. The general rule is to press on the wrong side of the cloth in the
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lengthwise grain. Pressing may enlarge or shrink the fabrics.
Fabric is stronger, long lasting and drapes well when cut in lengthwise fold. It
should be grain perfect before cutting, shrinking and pressing to come up with a
perfect cut and fit.

Date Revised:
March 10, 2020
PGT TCLASS
ALICIA A.
PANGAN
Revision # 01
Self- Check 2.3-1
Enumerate the following;
1-5 Example.of fabric faults

6-10 Give at least 5 knds of woven fabric
11-14 Techn[que in Preparing for cutting Fabric.
Alicia Pangan

Date Revised:
March 10, 2020
PGT TCLASS
ALICIA A.
PANGAN
Revision # 01
ANSWER KEY 3.3-1
1–5 Example.of fabric faults
● . Yarn flaws - broken, missing, uneven, uncut wales
● Color changes - spotting, shading, rubbing off
● Misprinted pattern - off-grain, off-center
● Sheds wrinkles - crush a corner to check for wrinkling
● Over finished - brittle, stiff
5 – 10 Woven Fabrics
● Calico
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● Chino
● Cotton
● Denim
● Linen
11 – 14 Technique in Preparing for cutting Fabric.
● Shrinking and soaking the fabric by laundering and drying
● Straightening the end of fabrics
● Stretching the grains of fabrics
● Pressing

Date Revised:
March 10, 2020
PGT TCLASS
ALICIA A.
PANGAN
Revision # 01
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able
deals with the laying out of patterns, pinning and marking seam allowances,
darts and pocket locations in accordance with the fabric guidelines and
specified garment style
Determine the right and wrong sides of the fabric
Before laying out the patterns be sure that you fold the fabric on its wrong
side.
Below are tips to identify the right or wrong side of fabric.
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1. Prints are more visible and bright on the right side.
2. Right side has smooth and finished appearance.
3. Right side selvage is smoother than the wrong side.
4. Wrong side has loose thread ends.
5. Whole, silk and most nylons are folded or rolled with their right side in.
● Fabric Folds
There are four kinds of fabric folds:
1. Lengthwise centerfold
The fabric is folded lengthwise at the center with the selvage together.

Date Revised:
March 10, 2020
PGT TCLASS
ALICIA A.
PANGAN
Revision # 01
2. Crosswise centerfold
The fabric is folded crosswise with the raw edges together
Off-center lengthwise fold

The fabric is folded lengthwise with the selvage meeting at the center.
3. Off-center crosswise fold

The fabric is folded crosswise with the raw edge meeting at the center
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The hints in folding are the following:

Date Revised:
March 10, 2020
PGT TCLASS
ALICIA A.
PANGAN
Revision # 01
1. Where selvages meet, they should match exactly. Shifting of slippery or
soft fabric can be prevented by pinning selvages together every few
inches.
2. If the material was folded at the time of the purchase, make sure the
fold line is accurate and press it again if necessary.
3. When no fold is indicated, lay fabric right side up.
● Pattern Layout
It is the placement and arrangement of pattern pieces on the materials

for marking and cutting.
Procedure in Laying Out Pattern on the Cloth:
1. Patterns must be checked well before laying them on the cloth.

2. Examine all the necessary pattern symbols before laying them on the
cloth.
3. Choose the longest cutting table to prevent the fabric from hanging
over the edge of table.
4. When laying each pattern piece, check the following :
lengthwise grain position
a.
b. the center fold
c. if it is to be duplicated
d. if it is to be sectioned to be cut singly, or not through two
layers
5. Fold the material on the right side with selvage folded together.
6. Lay out the largest pattern piece first on the wrong side of the
material.
7. Pin pattern piece in all the way around the edge.
8. Insert pins along the lengthwise grain.
9. Lay the small pattern pieces and pin them in vacant places.
10. Let the seam allowances touch each other whenever possible.
Mark the stitching lines before cutting.
Date Developed:
April 28,2014 Issued by:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC II March 10, 2020
PGT TCLASS Page 63 of 183
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
PANGAN Revision # 01
Pattern lay out and marking
● Pinning
Pins used in dressmaking are made of steel or brass with a tin
coating.
The types of pins used in dressmaking:
Dressmaker’s pin is of medium size and has 1 inches long.

1. 1/16
Glass-headed pins are easy to handle.

2.
Lace pins or silk pins
3.
It is 1 inch long, finest size with sharp points and used for lightweight fabrics.
T- pins stay in position in an open woven fabrics.

4.
Safety pins
5.
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
● Pinning Pattern to the Cloth:
1. Be sure the pattern piece is placed on the straight grain by measuring the
grain from the fabric’s edge.
2. After measuring the grain line, smooth the tissue and place pins
diagonally towards the corners of the pattern.
3. Then place pins where necessary to keep the pattern pieces flat for
cutting.
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
● Marking
In doing this marking details, we have to learn the various marking tolls
needed.
What to mark? All details should be marked; however, these are not
shown by notches or clips when long straight edges are left unmarked
stitching guide is used to keep seams even.
Construction details to be marked:
▪ Seam lines
▪ Center lines along closing
▪ Fold lines
▪ Position for ease or gathers
▪ Position for pockets
▪ Buttonholes and buttons
▪ Slash line
▪ Point where stitching line should stop
Marking tools are required for transferring pattern markings to garment

fabric pieces and for making alterations on garments.
There are various types of marking tools:
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
1. Tailor’s chalk
This is essential as a marker for use on materials. Tailor’s chalk is available
in a range of colors and is removed by brushing.
2. Wax chalk
This is available in black or white
and is used for woolen fabrics. Wax can be
removed by pressing.
3. Dressmaker’s pencil
This is available in white or pastel
shades. This chalk pencil is used to make
fine lines on fabric. It has an erasing
brush at one end.
4. Tracing wheel
It is a saw- tooth with a sharp
point. This tool is used to transfer
pattern markings to the wrong side of the fabric. This is used with the
dressmaker’s carbon paper.
5. Dressmaker’s
carbon paper
This type of tracing
paper is available in a
number of colors including white, red,and blue. It is used in marking all types
of fabric in combination with a tracing wheel. This work is best on plane, flat-
surfaced fabrics.
6. Liquid Marking Pen
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
This is felt-tip liquid marking pen. Marks may disappear after 48 hours,
and the other washes out.
The marking tips:
Marking is done on the wrong side of the fabric.

1.
Pattern symbols are transferred on the wrong side of the fabric
2.
after cutting and before the patterns are removed.
Construction symbols and marks for placement of details should

3.
be transferred.
How to Transfer Pattern Markings
Place the garment and the pattern piece on top of the tracing
1.
paper.
Mark straight lines using the tracing wheel. Get over lines only
2.
once.
The tip of darts should be indicated with a short line.

3.
Remove the pattern piece then place the pins back.
4.
Work on the other side of the fabric, re-trace over previous lines to
5.
transfer the other half of the garment.
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
Marking darts and pocket location
●
For a good fitting, darts may be used in ladies blouse and skirts. Dart is a fold
in the fabric stitch wider at one end and tapering to the other end. It is used to
give fullness or shape to the garments.
Pocket is a small piece of cloth attached to the garment, which serves as a
holder of items such as money, wallet and handkerchief. It also serves as
decoration on the garments. Accuracy in tracing the marks of the location of
darts and pockets is necessary.
Marking dart location:
Mark the stitching lines and the line through the center
1.
known as fold line.
Mark a line at right angle to the point of the dart. Mark the
2.
centerline before marking the two side lines to prevent the pattern
from shifting.
How to mark
pocket location:
Mark
1.
pocket
location on
the wrong
side of the
fabric.
Transfer the markings to the right side by basting along the line
2.
by hand or machine.
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
This marking must be shown at the right side of the fabric where
3.
the pocket is to be attached.
Self- Check 2.3-2

Read and understand the
following questions below.
Write yes or no on the blank.
_____1. Did I arrange the patterns according to their order of

construction?
_____2. Did I fold the fabrics with the right sides together?
_____3. Did I lay my pattern on the right side of the fabric?
_____4. Did I lay out my pattern pieces along the grain line?
_____5. Did I lay out my small pieces first and the small pieces last?
_____6. Did I make full use of the fabric by piecing small pieces on the
pattern?
_____7. Did I pin the pattern to the fabric correctly?
_____8. Did I transfer all needed pattern markings?
_____9. Did I put pins four inches apart?
____10. Did I trace all marking lines and retrace them to the other half
before the pattern is removed?
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
ANSWER KEY 2.3-2
1. YES
2. YES
3. N0
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
4. YES
5. NO
6. YES
7. YES
8. YES
9. YES
YES
10.
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
CUT MATERIALS
Learning Objectives After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
determine and study the different cutting tools, proper ways of using them
and following the set of standards for the accurate cutting of fabrics and
check the garment parts after cutting.
Cutting is a crucial step in dressmaking. It should be done with haste.

Cutting needs complete concentration. For best result, assemble everything
you need, including threaded needles for basting, plenty of pins, marking
tools and sharp cutting tools before you start cutting.
Cutting tools are instruments that serve well if properly maintained. The
best quality cutting tools are hot-forge, high-grade steel honed to a fine
cutting edge. Blades should be joined with an adjustable screw to ensure
even pressure along the length of the blade.
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
Sharp cutting tools make clean cuts and well-defined notches. Furthermore,
and they do not damage fabric. On the other hand, dull tools slow the
cutting process, and make your hand and wrist tire easily. Sewing cutting
tools should not be used for other household task. Cutting tools must be
sharpened regularly and the joints are oiled occasionally for better use.
Types of cutting tools and their uses:
1. Bent-handled
dressmaker’s shears
These are made of quality steel and hold a sharp cutting edge. The blades
move easily and cut smoothly along the entire length and the points should
come together. Shears have the length of 7- 12 inches and are satisfactory
for most apparel fabrics.
a. All steels, chrome-plated shears are for heavy duty cutting

b. Stainless steel blades and plastic handles are fine for lightweight
fabrics
c. A serrated edge shears, give maximum cutting control and is used
for synthetic fibers and slippery knits
2. Cutting scissors
a. Trimming scissor
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
It is 3-4 inches long. It is used for trimmings, clipping threads and snipping
slashes.
b. Embroidery scissor
It has 4-5 inches finely tapered
blades. Both points are sharp for
use in working with fine details in
delicate fabrics and in embroidery
work.
c. Buttonhole scissor
This is intended for making buttonholes.
.Seam ripper
Hook quickly rips seams, opens
buttonholes and removes stitches. This
should be used carefully to avoid
piercing the fabric.
3. Thread clipper
It has spring action blades
which are used for snipping
threads.
4. Rotary cutter
It is an adaptation of the giant rotary
cutter used by the garment industry. It
works like a pizza cutter and can be
used by left or right-handed sewers.
The rotary cutter is available in
different sizes with different blades.
When using a rotary cutter, work on a
cutting mat to protect the blade and
the cutting surface.
5. Pinking shears /
scalloping
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
shears
This is popular in zigzagging or
scalloped edge or for seam
finishes. This is used to finish
seams and raw edges or many
types of fabric. It cuts a ravel-
resistant edge. This is not
satisfactory for straight cutting.
6. Leather shears
These are used for cutting leather and suede. It has heavy serrated edge.
7. Stitch ripper
This is smaller than seam ripper, and it can cut stitches close to the fabric.
8. Electric shear
This is available in one- or-two-speed models. Some are battery
operated, while the others maybe plugged into an electric outlet for
operation.
CUTTING
Cutting with precision makes construction easier and more accurate. It
also contributes to the final success of the garment. To avoid mistakes cut all
pieces in one work session.
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Be sure to have an exclusive table for cutting in a suitable place. Get
everything organized and do all the cutting at once.
Observe the precautionary measures while cutting:
1. Work with clean hands.

2. Be careful and never play with your cutting tools.
Steps in Cutting Out the Fabrics
1. Have everything handy. Gather all the equipment needed for the
cutting process.
2. Use a pair of sharp cutting shears with long even strokes.
3. Place one hand on the pattern close to the cutting line and hold before
cutting the fabric.
4. To cut out the piece, rest the cutting shear on the table so that the
fabric is slightly raised.
5. Cut first the large pieces, then the small ones.
6. Cut notches away from seam allowance. Notches help to match
sections during construction.
7. As you cut, walk around the table instead of pulling the materials.
8. Do not allow any parts of fabric to hang over the edge of a cutting
table. This is especially important in knitted fabrics.
9. Cut the entire garment at one time.
10.After cutting each part, put it aside. Do not remove the pins and
pattern, for you will need them in marking the fabric.
11.Collect and tie all scraps of cloth together for future use.
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Notes: When cutting, always start at the lower end of cloth or at your left
hand side . Doing this will avoid much remnants.
Regarding the sleeves, the ways may vary, depending on the style. You may
add more allowance on top sleeves, and other kinds of sleeves.
SELF CHECK
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Read and understand the items being described below. Choose the letter of
the correct answer and write it in your quiz notebook.
1. When cutting the material, this is how notches should be cut from the
seam allowance.
a. downward
b. outward
c. sideward
d. upward
2. This is used when cutting the cloth in order to get clean and evenly cut
edges.
a. blade
b. cutting shears
c. embroidery scissors
d. pinking shears
3. It is a grain of fabric that runs along the selvage.
a. bias
b. crosswise
c. lengthwise
d. twirls
4. It is a cutting tool that gives an attractive zigzag edge to fabrics that do
not ravel.
a. baguio cut
b. pinking shears
c. shears
d. scissors
5. This is a characteristics of a lengthwise grain.
a. it has less stretch
b. it is stronger
c. the selvage is there
d. all of these
6. This type of scissors is only useful in working with fine details of delicate
fabrics.
a. buttonhole
b. embroidery
c. pinking
d. trimming
7. This is a term used in arranging the pattern pieces on the fabric.
a. to cut
b. to lay out
c. to mark
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d. to trace
8. It is the direction in which the thread of a fabric runs.
a. facing
b. grain
c. hem
d. interlining
9. This is how pattern pieces are arranged economically during lay out.
a. along the centerfold
b. along the selvage
c. apart
d. close to each other
10. It is used in cutting fabrics.

a. rotary cutter
b. ripper
c. a pair of scissors
d. a pair of shears
11. It is the dressmaker’s guide in cutting a fabric.
a. pattern
b. pins
c. shears
d. tailor’s chalk
12. It is used to transfer the marks of the pattern to the fabric.

a. ball pen
b. crayon
c. tailor’s chalk
d. tracing wheel
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ANSWER KEY
1 B
2 B
3 C
4 B
5 D
6 D
7 B
8 D
9 B
10 D
11 D
12 D
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COMPETENCY-BASED
LEARNING MATERIAL
Sector:
GARMENTS
Qualification:
TAILORING NC II
Unit of Competency:
DRAFT AND CUT PATTERN

TCLASS
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HOW TO USE THIS COMPETENCY BASED LEARNING MATERIALS
WELCOME:
The unit of competency, “SEW CASUAL APPAREL”, is one of the competencies of

DRESSMAKING NC II, course.
Which comprises the knowledge, skills and attitudes required for a TVET?
trainer to possess.
The module, SEW CASUAL APPAREL, contains training materials and activities
related to identifying learners requirements, preparing session plan preparing section basic
instructional materials and organizing learning and teaching activities for you to complete.
In this module, you are required to go through a series of learning activities in order to
complete each learning outcome. In each learning outcome are Information sheet, Self-
checks, Task sheet and Job sheet. Follow and perform the activities on your own. If you
have questions, do not hesitate to ask for assistance from your trainers.
REMEMBER TO:
● Read information sheet and complete the self-check. Suggested references are
included to supplement the materials provided in this module.
● Perform the Task sheets, Job sheets until you are confident that your output
conforms to the Performance Criteria Checklist that follow the sheets.
● Submit outputs of the Task Sheet and Job Sheet to your trainer for evaluation
and recording in the ACCOMPLISHMENT CHART. Outputs shall serve as your
portfolio during the Institutional Competency Evaluation. When you feel
confident that you have sufficient practice, ask you trainer to evaluate you. The
results of your assessment will be recorded in your Progress Chart and
Accomplishment Chart.
You must pass the Institutional Competency Evaluation for this Competency before
moving to another competency.
A Certificate of Achievement will be awarded to you after passing

the evaluation.
You need to complete this module before you can perform the module on SEW
CASUAL APPAREL
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DRESSMAKING NC-II
No. Unit of Competency Module Title Code
Draft And Cut Pattern Drafting and cutting GRM743301

1.
For Casual Apparel pattern for casual apparel
Prepare and Cut Preparing and cutting GRM743302

2. materials for casual materials for casual
apparel apparel
GRM743303
3. Sew Casual apparel Sewing casual apparel
Apply finishing touches Applying finishing touches GRM743304

4.
on casual apparel on casual apparel
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MODULE CONTENT
UNIT OF COMPETENCY : Sew Casual Apparel
MODULE TITLE : Sewing casual apparel
MODULE DESCRIPTOR: This module covers the knowledge, skills and

attitude. It includes the requirements for preparing cut parts, preparing sewing
machine, for operation and sewing garments.
NOMINAL DURATION: 80 HRS
LEARNING OUTCOMES:
At the end of this module you MUST be able to:

1. Prepare cut parts
2. Prepare sewing machine for operation
3. Sew and assemble cut parts
4. Alter complete garment
1. Actual Performance
2. Oral questioning
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LEARNING OUTCOME NO. 3
Sew and Assemble Garment
Contents:
1. Procedure in assembling garments Such us blouse, skirts and blouse

2. Complete finishing touches
3. Procedure in pressing
Assessment Criteria
1. Garments parts are assembled in accordance with garment assembly

instruction and pattern specifications.
2. Garments are sewn in accordance with sewing standard procedures and company’s
time frames
3. Sleeves, collars and pockets are identified and prepared for assembling in terms of
customer’s specification
4. The neckline and corners are sewn evenly and sharp according to sewing procedures
5. Pocket flaps and pieces had clean corners with no raw edges
6. Zipper is sewn without puckered according to sewing instructions
7. Seams, edges are finished in accordance with the job requirements
8. Waistband width are evenly sewn from end-to-end according to standard operating
procedure
Conditions
The participants will have access to:
1. Training Centers,
2. Tools, Accessories and Supplies
Sewing Equipment
Assessment Method:
4. Demonstration with Oral Questioning

5. Actual Performance
6. Group Discussion
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7. Trainers Evaluation
Sew and Assemble Garment Parts
This Learning outcome in sew and

Read information assemble garment with information
Sheet 3.3-1 on procedure in assembling
garments such as blouse, skirt and dress On Procedure in preparing
garments ,accessories and finishing
touches your be able to perform .Provide
Answer self check 3.3.1 this complete Tools and materials
Compare answer with answer key CBLM
Fabric
Perform Task Sheet 3.3-1 on sew assemble Sewing equipment

garment parts
Sewing tools
Check performance using performance Sewing materials
criteria
Accessories and accent
Read information
Sheet 3.3-2 on completing
Finishing touches. Follow Step and Procedure in
assembling garments and complete
Answer self check 3.3.2 accessories and accents
Perform task sheet 3.3-2 Complete you task as per Standard

operation procedure (SOPs) and
Check performance using performance
company timeframe
criteria
Read information sheet 3.3-3 procedure in Trainers evaluate your output as per
pressing required CBT Standards is attained.
Compare answer to answer key
Perform task sheet 3.3-3Garment pressing
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criteria
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Procedure in Assembling Garments
1. Identify garment parts

2. Sew and assemble blouse and skirt
Introduction
This part of the course introduces the students to the skills. Required for converting
fabrics into a sewn garment. It is a very important skill that gives hands-on experience in
garment assembly.
Garment making is an introduction to the basic skill of sewing which is essential to

convert the design on paper into a garment. Garment making is one of the basic content of
fashion designing. Proficiency in the art of sewing is an essential pre-requisite in garment
making. Therefore, it is necessary to know the techniques of sewing for producing attractive
garments with good fit. Garment making is thus a technical accomplishment that requires
knowledge of fabrics, principles of clothing construction and skills involved in it. This
depends on the ability to select the correct fabric, color, Design and accessories to suit an
individual occasion. A garment that is made will be attractive if it fits well and proper attention
is paid to its fines details.
Sewing is a creative and interesting skill. The knowledge of sewing give a confident
feeling when it is applied to the construction ofgarments. The earlier method of
sewing by hand is not applicable for allstages of garment making. Therefore,
considerable emphasis is given to machine sewing. There are several machines in
the market today, eachwith its own desirable features and advantages. Sewing
machines rangefrom most basic having only simple lock stitch to the electronic
machinesthat use advanced computer technology having various functions
forexample piping, binding, ruffling, pleating, darning, hemming and evenmaking
buttonholes and attaching fasteners.
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The neckline is the top edge of a garment that surrounds the neck.
Collar (clothing), the part of a garment that fastens around or frames the neck.
Some basic collar styles are:

Shirt: A traditional collar found on most men’s dress shirts
Button-down: Has points that button to the shirt
Turtleneck: A high collar that usually folds over and covers the neck
Crewneck: A thin band around the base of the neck, as in a traditional t-shirt
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• Set-in sleeve styles
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Some basic skirt styles are:
Pleated: Have structured folds of cloth

Gathered: Have the fullness of the fabric pulled together at the waist without
structured folds.
A-line: have extra width at the hem on each side.
Wrap: Wrap around the body and overlap at the side-back or side-front.
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Self- Check 3.3-1
Enumerate the following;
1-4 Types of Garment parts.

5-9 Give at least 4 types neckline.
10-12 Basic collar style.
13-15 Basic skirt style.
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ANSWER KEY 3.3-1
1–4
● Collar
● Sleeve
● Skirt
● Neckline.
5–9
● Round
● Square
● v shape
● off shoulder
10 – 12
● buttons down
● turtle neck
● crew neck
13 – 15
● pleated
● a line
● wrap
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SEW ASSEMBLE GARMENTS PART
This module deals with the advantages of the unit method of construction, sewing and
assembling garment parts of blouse and skirt, as well as the types and steps in sewing seam
finishes, collars, sleeves, zippers and pockets.
WE HAVE TO CONSIDER THE FOLLOWING;
All stitches straight and even, seam edges finished to prevent raveling, the fabric cut with the
grain, plaids, stripes, and large designs matched at the seams, points of strain reinforced,
interfacings used for proper shape, buttonholes appear sturdy and free of raveling.
The buttons and accessories suitable for garment are properly selected. The seam
allowances and hems wide enough for future adjustments. The hemming stitches
inconspicuous on the right side of the garments.
If you need help making these shapes, I recommend using a T-shirt you like
and adjusting the measurements to match the drawings below.
Tips to Easy Sewing
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It is always good to find ways and means in which we can do things easier and faster.
Remember, time is a very precious resource and it should be used fully and creatively. If you follow
these easy sewing techniques, you will not only finish your sewing projects on time, but you also
become more systematic and more organized. So, let’s get started. Go over these techniques and
make sure you apply them when you sew your blouse and skirt.
Sewing a Straight Seam
When sewing the vertical seams, start from the bottom to the top, sewing with the grain of
the fabric and using finger pinning. It’s a faster and a more economical method. Just follow the
procedure.
1. Match the seam edges together. Position the fabric under the presser foot and lock stitch
(sew 2 or 3 stitches with the stitch length set at 0). Start sewing from bottom to top.
2. Match the raw edges at the top end of the seam; hold the fabric together with your right
hand and pull the fabric taut. At the center of the seam, pinch the raw edges together with
your left hand and transfer to your right hand without letting go of the ends you already
pinched. From the center of the seam to the bottom (placed under the presser foot), match
raw edges and pinch together at 6-8” intervals always transferring the fabric to your right
hand.
Steps in Sewing a Blouse
A. Sewing a blouse
1. Sew the front blouse unit.
a. Stay-stitch neckline, shoulder, armhole and the sides of the
blouse.
b. Sew the darts.
c. Press the blouse.
2. Sew the back blouse unit.
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a. Stay-stitch neckline, shoulder, armhole and sides of the
blouse.
b. Sew darts.
c. Press back blouse.
3. Sew shoulder seams. Finish and press seams open.
4. Prepare collar.
5. Attach collar and press.
6. Sew side seams. Finish seams and press open.
7. Prepare the sleeves.
a. Make the shirrings on the top portion of the sleeves.
b. Sew the seams of sleeves. Finish seams and press it open.
8. Set in the sleeves. Finish sleeves and press.
9. Make marked buttonholes and attach buttons.
10. Hem blouse.
B. Sewing a Skirt
1. Sew side seams and finish them. Press open.
2. Make pleats. Sew pleats in place and press.
3. Attach the zipper.
4. Attach pocket. Press.
5. Prepare the waistband. Press.
6. Attach waistband to the skirt and press.
7. Attach hook-and-eye on the waistband.
8. Hem skirt.
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9. Press skirt.
Construction Processes in Sewing a Blouse
There are seven main processes in the construction of a blouse. These are:
● Stay-stitching
● Sewing of darts
● Joining the seams
● Attaching the collar
● Setting in sleeves
● Making the worked buttonholes and attaching buttons
● Hemming the blouse
When sewing the blouse, follow in detail the directions in the unit method of construction
and study the different construction processes described in this module to serve as your guide.
1. Stay-stitching
Edges that are curved, like the neckline and the armholes, should not be stretched because
they might get out of shape.
Directions for Stay-Stitching
Stitch with the grain, using average length of stitch 1 centimeter from the edge of
the blouse. These are done on necklines, shoulder lines, waist, armholes, hipline and the
sides.
2. Directional Stitching
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Seams that are joined together should follow the correct directional stitching. These are
done following the grain of the cloth so that the fabric will not stretch and ravel.
3. Darts
Darts are the stitched folds on the material; they taper at one end. They are used for
controlling fullness in order to fit the curved areas of the body. These darts are ordinarily used at the
side seams and waistline to control fullness of the bust, and at the waistline to control fullness over
the hips. Darts should be sewn before seams are joined together.
Sewing the Darts
In sewing V-shaped darts:
a. Mark a line across the point of the darts so that these will be of the same length.
b. Fold the fabric on the wrong side, on the center line of the dart. Mark stitching line
with pins.
c. Stitch darts, starting from the wide portion up to the pointed end. Tie or back stitch
to secure the threads.
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d. Detach the pins and press. Underarm darts should be pressed downwards, the waist
and shoulder darts towards the center.
4. Seams
Seams are used to attach two separate parts of the garment. The edges of the seams should
not be finished so that they will not ravel. Seams should be strong, flat, and inconspicuous. They
should have uniform width. They are usually made on the wrong side of the dress.
Seam edges are finished by using one of the following seam finishes:
a. Pinked finish . Use pinking shears on the seam’s edges. This gives a neat finish but it
should be used only on firm, closely woven fabrics which are not transparent.
b. Overcast finish. This is used on fabrics that ravel easily and where a flat finish is needed.
When making an overcast edge, trim the edges neatly and beautifully and make
overcastting stitches from right to left. Make slanting stitches on the edge of the seam 1
cm apart and 1 cm deep.
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c. Edge turned and stitched seam. This is a heavier finish than overcastting and pinking
seam finishes. This finish is suitable for lightweight fabrics. To make this finish, trim the
seams and turn under raw edges. Machine stitch or make running stitches on the edges.
d. Blanket stitch finish. This can be used instead of overcastting. The blanket stitch finish is
more attractive and more suitable to loosely woven fabrics.
5. Joining the Shoulder Seams
In pinning the shoulder seams together, sometimes the back seam is bigger than the front
seam. This is necessary so that the extra width would fit over the curve of the shoulder. The neck
and armhole edges should be matched at the seam line. After pinning the edges, ease the back seam
to the front seam. Put pins on the center portion of the seam. Sew on the seamline and finish edge
with the appropriate seam finish.
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6. Interfacing
Interfacing is used on cuffs, collars, facings, and others in order to add body to these
portions. It makes collars stand up beautifully. Interfacing placed on the openings, strengthens
buttonholes. These interfacings are pinned on the wrong side of the garment and basted in place
near the seamline.
a. Interfacing for front facing extension – The interfacing is cut exactly like the front facing
extension. Cut the seam allowances of the interfacing and baste it on the extension.
Fold the seam allowances of the shoulder and the long raw edges of the front facing
extension under and stitch close to the fold.
b. Interfacing for collars – Interfacing is placed on collars to give them body. Use the collar
pattern in making it. Place the interfacing on the wrong side of the under collar and
baste. Trim the seam allowances of the interfacing. Cut the corners of the interfacing of
pointed collars in order to lessen bulk. Stitch the facing to the under collar.
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7. Preparing the Collar
Kinds of Collars
The four basic collar styles from which all others are adapted are peter pan,
mandarin, convertible, and shawl collars. The techniques used to attach collars vary with the
style and the weight of the fabric. Most collars are completed before being attached to the
garment. An exception to this is the shawl collar.
Characteristics of a well-made collar:
o Points, curves, and notches are exactly alike on both left and right sides of the garment.
o The ends of the collar do not extend beyond the center front or back unless specified
otherwise by the pattern.
o The collar lies smoothly with none of the under collar showing on the right side.
To make the collar:
a. Attach interfacing as directed.

b. Pin the upper collar to the under collar, right
sides together and stitch on the seam line
around the outer edge. Trim the under collar
seam allowance to 3/16 inch, the upper collar
seam allowance to ¼ inch, and the
interfacing to the seam line. Seam
allowances are cut diagonally at the corners
(Fig.1).
Figure 1
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c. To keep the under collar from showing on the finished garment, spread the collar open and
under stitch the under collar to the seam allowances as close to the seam line as possible. If
the outside edge of the collar is curved, the under stitching may be done the entire length of
the seam. If the collar has sharp points, under stitching cannot be continued all the way to
the corners.
d. If the collar has points, work them out to the tip by taking a small hand stitch in the point
and gently pulling both ends of the thread. Lift the corner into position (Figure 2). Pull the
seam slightly to the underside and press.
Note: On some fabrics the seam allowance around the outer edge of the curved collar may need to
be notched to avoid overlapping. This technique requires skill.
Figure 2
Peter Pan Collar
This collar may be joined to the neck edge with a bias facing. The collar will conceal the stitching on
the bias facing (Figure 3).
Figure 3
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To attach the Peter Pan collar:
a. Pin the completed collar to the right side of the garment, matching the center front, center
back, shoulder markings, and notches. The ends of the collar should follow the center line
above and below the neck seam line (Figure. 4)
Figure 4
b. Baste the collar to the garment neckline.

c. Turn the garment facing over the collar, right sides together.
d. Place a strip of bias over the collar, extending the bias about 1 inch beyond the facing edge
(Figure 5).
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Figure 5
e. Stitch on the seam line from the fold edge of one front facing around the neck to the
corresponding fold edge of the other facing.
f. Grade or trim the seam allowances to ¼ inch. Trim corners diagonally and clip the neckline
seam allowances. Trim out excess thickness at the shoulder seams.
g. Turn under the seam allowance on the outer edge of the bias. Turn the facing to the wrong
side of the bodice and press flat against the bodice.
h. Hem the bias facing edge to the bodice by hand or by machine.
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Mandarin Collar
The mandarin collar (Figure 6) is attached to the neck edge with a fitted facing so that no
stitching will show around the neck edge. The collar may be straight and have a fold at the top edge,
or it may be curved with a seam at the top edge. A slightly curved collar will fit more closely
around the neck than the straight collar.
Figure 6
To attach the mandarin collar:
a. Make the collar as directed.

b. Turn the collar right side out, work the seam and corners to the edge (following the
instructions for Peter Pan collar), and press.
c. Place the collar on the garment with right sides together, matching centers, shoulders, and
notches. Baste the collar to the garment neckline.
d. Make a fitted facing and attach to the garment front or back facing.
e. Place the facing over the collar, matching notches, seams, and centers.
f. Stitch on the seam line from the fold edge of one facing around the neckline to the
corresponding fold edge of the other facing.
g. Trim seam allowances to ¼ inch or grade to 3/16 and ¼inch. Clip seam allowances to the
seam line, so that they will spread and lie flat inside the garment. Trim out excess bulk at
corners and intersected seams.
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h. Turn the facing to the wrong side of the garment; work the seams and points to the edge,
and press.
i. Secure the fitted facing to the garment at the shoulder seams.
j.
Convertible Collar
The convertible or rolled collar (Figure 7) is versatile in that it may be worn open or closed.
In either position, the collar rolls up against the neck; therefore, no stitching should show on the
right side
Figure 7
To attach the convertible collar:
a. Make the collar as directed.

b. Finish the outer edge of the bodice facing.
c. Pin the under collar and interfacing to the right side of the garment neckline, matching
notches, seam markings, center back, and center front.
d. If necessary, clip the neck seam allowance of the garment to make it easier to fit the collar.
e. Stitch the under collar and interfacing to the bodice across the back neckline from shoulder
seam to shoulder seam (Figure 8).
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Figure 8
f. Pin the upper collar in place, with the ends of the collar following the center line marking
above and below the neckline seam. The ends of the collar from the point to the neckline
seam should be exactly the same length.
g. Fold the facing over the collar and garment, right sides together, and pin a place (Figure 9).
Figure 9
h. With the garment right side up, machine stitch on the seam line from the fold edge of the
front to the shoulder seam. Fasten threads. Repeat on the right bodice front.
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i. Trim and grade the front neckline seam allowances to ¼ inch and clip to the stay line. Trim
excess bulk from corners and seams in the front neckline.
j. Turn the front facing right side out. Work the tip of the front opening to the seam line and
press.
k. Clip the seam allowances to the seam line at the shoulder seam. Turn the seam allowances
into the collar across the back neckline (Figure 10).
Figure 10
l. Turn upper collar seam allowance under across the back of the neck. To keep the under
collar from showing, the seam allowance of the upper collar have to be decreased before
stitching it in place. Attach the facing to the garment along the shoulder seam.
Tie Collar
The tie collar (Figure 11) is made of a strip of bias or straight grain fabric long enough to tie
in a bow of the desired size.
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Figure 11
To attach the tie collar:
a. Turn the front facing back over the bodice, right sides together and machine stitch from the
front fold to the point indicated on the pattern, usually ¾to 1 inch from the center front (A in
Figure 12). Fasten threads securely.
b. Grade the seam allowances or trim to ¼ inch and clip to the seam line as needed. Cut
diagonally across the corner.
c. Slash the seam allowances to the stitching in a line even with the end of the collar (B in
Figure 12).
d. Turn the facing right side out, work the seam slightly to the underside, and press (C in Figure
12).
Figure 12
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e. Cut and attach the collar, following the pattern instructional sheet.
f. To make a tie collar without a pattern, cut a strip of garment fabric twice the desired width
plus two seam allowances (usually 3½ to 4 inches wide) and a length suitable for the collar
and bow.
g. Fit the unfolded collar to the bodice neckline, right sides together, matching center back. Pin
around the neck edge along the seam line.
h. Machine stitch the collar to the bodice and fasten threads securely.
i. Fold the collar and ties with right sides together. Stitch across the end and along the side of
each tie to the point where it meets the neckline seam. Secure the stitching at both ends
(Figure 13).
Figure 13
j. Clip the corners diagonally. Trim and grade the seam allowances of the ties and neckline
seams. Clip the neck seam allowances from the edge to the stay stitching so that they will
spread as needed.
k. Turn the ties right side out and work the seam to the edge. Press.
l. Turn the neck seam allowances into the tie collar. Turn under the collar seam allowance and
stitch in place so that none of the stitches show on the right side.
Shawl Collar
The shawl collar (Figure 14) differs from attached collars because it is an extension of the
garment front and not a separate piece. The garment fronts extend around the back of the neck and
become the underside of the finished collar. The facings become the upper side of the collar.
Interfacing may be attached to either the garment front or the facing.
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Figure 14
To make and attach the shawl collar:
a. Mark the angle where the collar and the front shoulder seams meet. Using 20 to 25 stitches
per inch, stitch on this seam line (a in Figure 15).
b. With right sides together, stitch the center back seam of the under collar (b in Figure 15)
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Figure 15
c. Press the seam open and trim to ¼ inch.

d. Lap the center back seam of the interfacing sections and double stitch as directed in the
section Interfacings. Trim seam allowances to the double stitching. Pin and baste interfacing
to the wrong side of the garment front and collar, matching center back collar seam,
notches, and seam edges.
e. Join the back and front shoulder seams (c in Figure 15). Machine stitch on the seam line,
stopping at the exact point of the reinforced corner. Tie threads securely.
f. Clip the seam allowance diagonally to the corner of the reinforced seam line (Figure 16).
Press the shoulder seam open.
g.
Figure 16
h. With right sides together, stitch the neck edge of the collar to the bodice back neck, starting
and ending exactly at the reinforced corner. Tie threads securely.
i. Reinforce the angle on the facing in the same manner as the garment.
j. Place the garment facings right sides together and machine stitch the center back seam.
Press open and trim to ⅜ inch.
k. Finish the outer edge of the facing up to the shoulder seam (a in Figure 17), using a finish
suitable for the garment and fabric.
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l. With the right sides together, join the facing to the garment, matching the center back,
notches, and seam edges. Machine stitch the entire length from the lower front edge of one
side to the lower front edge of the other side (b in Figure 17).
Figure 17
m. Trim interfacing close to the seam line. Press seam open. Trim and grade seam allowances.
n. Understitch the outer edge of the under collar across the back (a in Figure 18). Understitch
the facing to the seam allowances, starting slightly below the top button marking (b in Figure
18).
o. Turn the facing to the wrong side of the garment, working the seam slightly to the
underside. At the point where the facing becomes the upper collar, the seam should be on
the edge (c in Figure 18).
p. Press.
q. Clip the facing diagonally at the angle formed by the neck edge and the shoulder. Turn under
the seam allowance along the shoulder seam and neck edge (d in Figure 17). Stitch the
facing to the garment, making certain that the stitches do not show on the right side.
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Figure 18
Joining the Side Seams
a. Pin the side or underarm seams together. Be sure to match seam allowances of the front
and back blouses. Check to see that the front and back blouses are joined together and not
the two front or two back parts.
b. Stitch the seams. Press open and finish the seams with the appropriate seam finish.
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Setting in the Sleeves
Set-In Sleeves
In a set-in sleeve, the cap fullness is eased into the armhole of the garment. The sleeve may
be long, short, or three-quarter length and finished with or without a cuff.
Preparing the Sleeves
The sleeves should be carefully fitted to check the location of the elbow darts and the sleeve
length. After the sleeves are fitted, they should be completely finished before they are permanently
stitched into the armhole.
To make the sleeve:
a. Using an ease stitch, sew on the seam line around the cap of the sleeve between the
notches. The weight of the fabric will determine the number of stitches per inch. A second
row of stitches may be helpful to those who are inexperienced in fabric manipulation or if
the fabric is difficult to control. If a second row of stitches is needed, it is placed in the seam
allowance about ⅛ inch from the seam line.
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Stitching sleeve cap to ease fullness
b. Stitch the underarm sleeve seam

and finish the seam edges, if
necessary. Press the seam open.
c. Complete the lower edge of the sleeve
according to pattern instructions or
with one of the following finishes:
● Hem for lightweight fabric. Turn
and press the hem on the
marked line. Turn under the raw
edge about ⅛ inch and hem.
● Hem for heavy fabric. Turn and
press the hem on the marked line. Trim the sleeve seam allowance to ⅜ inch
between the fold line an hem edge. If the fabric ravels, overcast the edge or finish
with ribbon seam binding. Complete the hem with an appropriate hemming stitch.
● Facing. If the sleeve is finished with a facing, refer to directions for fitted and bias
neckline facings.
● Cuffs. Cuffs are generally made and attached by using methods similar to those used
for collars. The pattern instruction sheet usually provides a satisfactory method for
attaching the cuffs.
Stitching Sleeve into Armhole
To set the sleeve into the armhole:
a. Pull up the ease threads from both sides to shape the sleeve cap. Hold the sleeve cap over
the fingers and note its shape and the position of the grain. Adjust the ease so that it is
distributed evenly and smoothly and the grain is in the correct position.
Note: Sleeves of heavier fabrics will fit into the armholes more smoothly if the excess
fullness is shrunk out of the seam allowances. To shrink out fullness, place the sleeve
cap over a pressing cushion. With a steam iron or with a damp cloth and dry iron,
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steam the seam allowance. Continue steaming until the fabric shrinks to the desired
shape. Do not shrink the sleeve cap itself, only the seam allowance.
b. Make necessary alterations in the length of the shoulder seam or the size of the armhole
before the sleeve is stitched into the armhole.
c. With right sides together, fit the sleeve into the armhole.
● Match the top of the sleeve to the shoulder line and the sleeve seam to the garment
seam. Pin.
● Match the notches and marks between notches and shoulder, and pin. There is ease
all around the sleeve, including the underarm area. Accurate matching of the notches
keeps this ease where it belongs. (Caution: Do not allow underarm ease to go up into
the sleeve cap area.)
● Curve the armhole seam over the hands with the fingers against the blouse and the
sleeve seam up. Use the thumbs to distribute the ease and smooth out puckers.
Fitting sleeve into armhole
d. Baste the sleeve in place.

e. With the garment on, check the position of the armhole seam and the grain of the sleeve.
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f. Stitch the armhole seam. Starting at one to the notches, stitch under the arm and around
the cap to the starting place. To strengthen the seam, continue stitching to make a double
row of stitches under the arm between the notches.
g. If necessary for comfort, the armhole seam allowance may be trimmed to ¼ inch between
the notches at the underarm.
h. If the fabric ravels, overcast the armhole seam edges together.
i. Turn the seam allowances into the sleeve, but do not press. If shoulder pads are to be used,
fasten them in place at this time.
Hemstitching the Blouse
The blouse is usually hemmed by slip stitching. Slip stitches made on the hemline should not
be seen on the right side of the dress. Neat and invisible slip stitches on a dress add to the nice and
neat appearance of the garment.
In hemming the blouse, turn up the hem on the hemline mark, pin a press the folded edge.
Mark the hem width and cut the extra material. Finish the hem by turning the raw edge under ¼ inch
and stitch on the fold.
Make slip stitches by taking a small stitch on the blouse. Then take another stitch on the fold
opposite where the thread comes out of the garment. Repeat the procedure until the hemline of the
blouse is finished.
Construction Processes in Sewing a Skirt
Joining the Side Seams
The side seams of the skirt are joined together by following the steps described below:
a. Put the right sides of the material together. Pin the edges and sew on the seam line.
b. Finish the seams with appropriate finish. You can use one of the following methods.
1) Use pinking shears on the edges.
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2) Sew on the edge of the seam and pink the edges.
3) Turn the raw edges and machine stitch ½ cm from the edge.
4) Overcast the edges.
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Zipper
Types
of Zipper:
a. Conventional zipper
This is closed at one end and is sewn into a seam that is stitched to the zipper
placket (the space into which the zipper is fitted).
b. Separating zipper
This is open at both ends and is sewn into a seam that will open completely.
c. Invisible zipper
This is constructed in such a way that it disappears into a seam; like conventional zipper,
an invisible zipper has one closed end.
All the zippers consist of either a chain of metal or plastic teeth or a synthetic filament
formed into ladder or coil sewn to fabric tapes. Since metal and nylon zippers are about equal in
strength and performance, the choice is largely a matter or personal preference.
Nylon zippers are lighter in weight and usually more flexible than metal zippers and are
available in more colors.
Metal zippers come in heavy-duty forms which are suitable for jeans and work clothes.
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Zippers are opened and closed by means of slider with a handle like tab that moves it up and
down. Top and bottom stops keep the slider from running off the zipper.
The Open Seam Method of Attaching the Zipper
Zippers are usually used on the side, front and back plackets of skirts, dresses, shorts, or
pants. The placket is usually one cm longer than the zipper.
Zippers are very good fasteners. They may be bought in different colors and length. Zippers
from clothes which are to be discarded can be removed and used again.
The open seam method is used in attaching the zipper. Here, the zipper is hidden inside the
skirt placket and only a single row of machine stitching is seen on the garment.
In the open-seam method, the zipper is attached by doing the following procedure:
a. Press the skirt placket. Make ½ cm fold on the left side of the placket.
b. Turn the skirt on the wrong side and hand baste the zipper to the placket. Use a zipper foot
in machine stitching the edge of the placket. Sew as close to the zipper’s teeth as possible.
c. Turn the skirt on the right side. Pin or baste the right portion of the zipper placket. Sew the
zipper starting ½ cm at the end of the zipper. Continue stitching up the waistline. Make the
end stitches by double stitching at the waistline.
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d. Remove baste stitches or pins on the placket.
Pockets
Pockets usually are part of the garment design and may be both functional and decorative. It
is a piece of cloth stitched to a garment that serves as a small pouch or bag for carrying small items.
It can be patched, inserted into a well or finished as per a bound buttonhole or welt. Since in-seam
pockets do not show from the outside of the garment, they may be added to a skirt or a dress
without affecting the design of the garment. They are not suitable for sheer fabrics or straight skirts
where bulk will be noticeable. The addition of patch pockets will affect the design and must be
planned very carefully.
In-Seam Pockets
The in-seam pocket may be made of two pieces of garment or lining fabric, or it may be cut
as an extension of the skirt sections.
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To make in-seam pockets:
a. Mark the desired location for the pocket opening on both the front and back sections of the
garment. An opening of 6 inches or more is needed.
b. For each pocket, cut 2 pieces of lining or garment fabric 3 or 4 inches longer than the desired
opening and 6 to 8 inches wide. Cut on the lengthwise grain, or follow the garment grainline.
With right sides together, cut the pocket in a modified oval.
c. With right sides together, pin or baste one pocket section to the garment seam. Machine
stitch ½ inch from the cut edge.
Joining pocket section to garment section at side seam
d. Repeat step 3 on the other pocket sections.

e. Understitch the pocket front to the skirt front seam allowances.
Understitching front pocket section to skirt front seam allowances
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f. Pre
ss the seam on
the back
garment
section toward the
pocket.
g. Match and pin the
pocket sections
and skirt
seams.
h. Machine
stitch the seams
from the bottom
of the garment to
the lower end of the pocket opening. With the machine needle in the fabric, raise the
presser foot and turn the garment. Lower the presser foot and continue stitching around the
pocket.
Joining front and back skirt and pocket sections
i. To press the skirt seam open below the pocket, clip the back seam allowance to the seam
line at point
Clipping seam allowance to press skirt seam open
j. When the pocket is cut as an extension of the skirt, follow the above procedure, beginning
with step 7.
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Attaching the Waistband
The waistband is usually cut when the fabric for the skirt is cut. Use the same pattern in
cutting the interfacing. The length of the band should be equal to the waist measurement plus the
allowance for the overlap and for the seam allowance. After attaching the zipper, the waistband
should now be attached to the skirt.
To attach the waistband to the skirt, follow these steps:
a. Attach the interfacing on the wrong side of the band.

b. Fold the waistband horizontally so that the right sides are stronger. Sew the seams at
both ends.
c.
Match and pin the right side of the skirt to the right side of the waistband.
d. Hand baste the waistband and then check if it fits. Stitch on the seamline.
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e. Turn the seam allowance inside the waistband and baste in place.
f. Slip stitch the folded edge and machine stitch around the waistband.
Attaching the Hook-and-Eye
Hook-and-eyes are usually attached on portions of clothes where there is much strain, such
as in collars, waistbands, pants, belts, and cuffs of sleeves. There are two kinds of metal eyes used in
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openings. The straight eyes are used on edges that overlap, as on waistbands; while the round eyes
are used where edges are just meet, as on the back opening of collars.
Start sewing at the end of one ring of the straight eye. Use buttonhole stitches that are close
to each other around the ring. Sew on the other ring. The rings of the hook are sewn in the same
way as the rings of the eye.
The end of the hook is fastened to the garment with several overhand stitches.
Hemming the Skirt
A hem is made by folding the edge of the garment once or twice on the wrong side and
fastening it to the garment by hand hemming. Hems may be finished with blanket stitch, slip stitch,
or catch stitch. Hand hemming allows a garment to fall in softer lines. It is invisible, smooth and the
garment can be remodeled without leaving too many marks on the fabric.
Before hemming the skirt, put it on first. Close the zipper and get a partner to help you in
determining the length of the skirt. Proceed in making hem stitches on the skirt.
Steps in Hemming a Skirt
a. Put on the skirt. Let your partner help you in putting pins on the skirt. Stand up straight on a
table while your partner marks the hem of your skirt.
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b. Remove the skirt and see if the marks are straight. Fold the skirt on the marks and put pins
perpendicular to the edge of the folded skirt edge.
c. Baste skirt 1 centimeter (3/8 inch) from the folded edge. Mark the width of the hem.
d. Cut the excess portion of the hem.
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e. Turn the edge and stitch near the edge.
f. Hem skirt using catch stitch, slipstitch or blanket stitch.
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TASK SHEET 3.3-1
Title: assembling garments parts
Performance Objective: Given this information, materials and equipment, you

should be able to perform the following assembling
garments.
Supplies/Materials :cut parts,threads,tailors chalk
Equipment : sewing machine,scissors,
Steps/Procedure:
1. Gather all materials needed.

2. Prepare the garments parts and equipment.
3. Cut parts are prepare accordance with the specified garment design/style.
4. Cut parts are press in accordance with fabric specifications.
5.Cut parts are pin together in accordance with garment design or style
6 Sew and assemble garment accordance with clients specification
7.Slevee,collar, and zipper are sewn in accordance with clients specification
8. Accessories and accents are prepared in accordance with garment design or
style.
Assessment Method: demonstration, oral questioning,
performance evaluation
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CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you….
1. Determined the equipment needed
2. Prepared all the fabric according to their specification
3. Pressed the fabric according to their specification
4. Pinned the cut parts fabric according to the garments
designed and style.
parts are pin together in accordance with garment design or style
w and assemble garment accordance with clients specification
vee,collar, and zipper are sewn in accordance with clients specification
8. Prepared accessories and accent in garments designed.
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Procedure in applying accessories and accents
BUTTONS
Buttons should be selected carefully to suit both the weight andcolor of the fabric.
The advantages of using buttons as closures arenumerous. They are both functional and
decorative. They should be sewnsecurely by a strong matching thread in such a way that it
allows thebuttonholes to close under the button without puckering the fabric. The fabric on
which the button is attached should be reinforced to preventtearing or pulling under strain.
There are two types of buttons: Buttons with holes and shanktype buttons. The
latter are attached to the garment from the under side.Buttons may be made of fabric, bone,
glass, metal, plastic etc. On dressesbuttons covered with self-fabric may be used. If you
provide scraps offabric to well establish tailors, they get the buttons covered by a special
machine. Covering may be done by hand also.Buttons are placed centrally on the centre
front and centre backlines of the garment except in unusual cases. Sufficient buttons should
be spaced equally to ensure that the opening is neat without gaping between buttons. The
width of spacing varies according to the positionof opening, fabric weight and size of button.
Very few or many buttonscan spoil the appearance of the finished garment. On a shirt or
blousethe buttons must be placed to avoid gaping across the bust and on a waisted garment
a button must always be used at the waist, because thisis the stress point of the garment.
a. Sewing buttons with holesSew this type of button using double thread bringing the
needleup and down through the holes in the buttons with a pin kept over thebutton. After
working enough stitches, remove the pin, lift the buttons.
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FASTENERSsix times. Now fasten the thread on the wrong side. Buttons with fourholes may
be sewn in the shape of a cross, two parallel lines, a square oran arrow head (Fig. 8.3a).
b. Sewing fancy or shank buttons:Bring needle through fabric and shank and then back
throughfabric. Stitch through fabric and shank until button is secure Fastenthread on
underside (Fig. 8.3b).
Fig. 8.3 Sewing buttons with (a) holes and (b) shank
C. Sewing Press Buttons or Snaps

Press buttons or Snaps are a kind of small fasteners having lessholding power than hooks
and eyes (Fig 8.3c). It is best to use themwhere there is not much strain on the opening.
Each press button hastwo parts - a ball and a socket. General purpose press buttons range
insize from fine to heavy.
Fig. 8.3c Sewing press buttonsand form a shank by winding the thread tightly around the
strands about
Fig. 8.3c Sewing press buttons
Worked Buttonholes
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Ladies’ blouses are usually buttoned from right to left so the buttonholes should be made on
the right side of the blouse. Holes through which buttons pass through are called buttonholes. If a
blouse is buttoned down at the front, the buttonholes may be placed horizontally or vertically.
Horizontal buttonholes are made ½ cm outside the centerline while the vertical buttonholes are
made on the center line. The mark of the exact length of buttonholes should be ¼ cm to ½ cm longer
than the diameter of the button. Buttonholes should be cut crosswise or lengthwise, following the
thread of the material. Use pointed and sharp scissors when cutting the buttonholes.
Worked buttonholes are more beautiful than machine buttonholes. Machine made
buttonholes are easy to make and do not need patience and skill in making them. Practice is
required in making worked buttonhole. Worked buttonholes are not hard to make on strong and
closely woven materials. Horizontal buttonholes are squared with buttonhole stitches at both ends.
Vertical Buttonholes Horizontal Buttonholes
Worked buttonholes should be:
● spaced evenly;
● cut following the threads of the fabric;
● made correctly according to the size of the buttons;
● cut correctly and accurately; and
● made strong and even.
Steps in Making the Worked Buttonholes
The following are the steps in making worked buttonholes:
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a. Mark the buttonholes.
b. Make the machine stitching around the mark.
c. Cut the holes with a pair of sharp scissors.
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d. Make the buttonholes from right to left. Start at the side nearest you. Make a circle with
the thread at the point where the next buttonhole stitch is to be made. Hold the lower
edge of the circle with the thumb. Insert the needle under the cloth and pull the needle
upwards. Make several buttonhole stitches up to the end.
e. When the other edge is reached, start making the fan. Make about 5-7 stitches to make
the rays of the fan.
f. Continue making the buttonhole stitches up to the other end. Finish end of the
buttonhole by making two bar threads directly across the end. Work blanket stitches
closely over them. Fasten threads at the back.
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Attaching Fasteners
Buttons
Buttons are those with shank and those with 2 or 4 holes. They are used as fasteners or as
decorations. They should be attached well.
When attaching flat buttons with holes, follow the steps below:
a. Fasten thread on wrong side. Make a small stitch where the button is to be sewn.
b. Place a pin on top of the button and sew over it. A stem is placed so that there will be space
for fabric under the button when the garment is buttoned. Bring needle up through the
button, then to the other hole back to the fabric. Make several stitches.
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c. Remove pin. Insert needle in between the thread and fabric. Wind thread around to make a
stem or shank. Draw thread to the wrong side and fasten.
A button with a shank can be attached like a flat button, except that the needle is inserted
under the hole on the other side of the button. These buttons should not be sewn too closely to the
garment if these are to be used as fasteners.
Snaps
Snaps
are used
on places
where
a flat and invisible closing is needed. It is also used where there is little strain on the opening.
Marking the Location of the Snaps
Place the ball part of the snap on the wrong side of the right portion of the blouse and mark
position with a pin. Sew the ball parts and place tailor’s chalk mark on the balls. Lap and put together
the two edges and press together so that the tailor’s chalk marks will be transferred to the other
side.
Sewing on Snaps
When attaching snaps, study and do the following procedure:
a. Fasten thread by making two or three stitches on the mark.
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b. Make overhand or buttonhole stitches on each hole.
c. Continue making the stitches on the four holes. Fasten thread on the wrong side.
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SELF-CHECK 3.3-2
Multiple choice: Choose the letter of the best answer. Write the letter of the choice of your
answer sheet.
1. What is a kind of small fasteners having less holding power than hook &eye?
A. buttons with hole
B. buttons
C. press buttons or snaps
D. buttonholer
2. What are the two types of buttons?

A. holes and shank
B. buttons hole
C. snaps
D. none of the above
3. What are the decorative than worked buttonholes?

A. finished button holes
B. bound button holes
C. button hole
D. button snaps
4. What are the various types of commonly use buttons?

A. link button
B. flat buttons with two or four holes
C. covered buttons
D. snaps
5. What are the steps in working a button hole.

A. marking the position for vertical and horizontal buttonholes.
B. sew button to the fabric
C. making button holing
D. all of the above
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ANSWER KEY 3-1.1b
1. C
2. A
3. B
4. B
5. A
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TASK SHEET 3. 3-2
Title: Complete finishing touches
Performance Objective: Given this information sheet on Step and Procedure in

complete finshing touches), ,you should be able to apply
the accessories and accent following. Standard operation
and techniques in applying accessories and accent
Supplies/Materials :Finish garment, threads, zipper , Hook and eye, button, lace,
threads
Equipment : scissor ,needles
Steps/Procedure:
1. Finishing touches are checked in accordance with garments
Alicia Pangan
design/style specifications
2. Accessories and accents position are marked and attached in
accordance with garment design/style specification
3. Accessories and accents are sewn by hand or machine in
accordance to garment design/style specifications
4. Finishing operations are performed in accordance with customer’s
specifications and company’s procedures.
Assessment Method:
Demonstration
Performance evaluation
Date Developed:
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DRESSMAKING NC
March 10, 2020
II PGT TCLASS Page 150 of 183
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CRITERIA YES NO
Did you….
1. Checked the finishing touches are in
accordance with garments design/style
specifications
2. Marked and attach accessories and

accents attached in accordance with
garment design/style specification
3. Accessories and accents are sewn by

hand or machine in accordance to
garment design/style specifications
Alicia Pangan
4. Finishing operations are performed in
accordance with customer’s
specifications and company’s procedures
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC
March 10, 2020
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
Alicia Pangan
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DRESSMAKING NC
March 10, 2020
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
INFORMATION SHEET 3.3-3
PROCEDURE IN PRESSING
Learning objectives
After reading this information sheet, you must be able to:

1. Determine equipments or materials in pressing
2. Procedure techniques in pressing
INTRODUCTION
A variety of tools and equipment are used for performing various
functions in pressing, etc. Knowledge about these tools will help us to choose
the right tool to complete a particular task in the process of garment
construction.
Alicia Pangan
PRESSING TOOLS
Iron:
This keep an automatic iron handy for pressing fabric beforecutting, during
construction and after the garment is completed.
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Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC
March 10, 2020
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
Steam Iron:
It has an adjustable temperature control, and is equipped with athumb press

for automatic steam. Distilled water is heated, and theresulting steam can be
released with the thumb press while pressing.
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Ironing Board:
It is used for hand pressing which is padded and of convenientheight. One
may use an ordinary table covered with sheet and blanketfor this purpose.
Sleeve Board:
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC
March 10, 2020
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
This is a well-padded miniature of a full-sized ironing boardand is used to
press sleeves and hard-to-reach small details (Fig. 2k).
It has a tapered end on one side and a round end on the other side.
Fig.2k sleeve board
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Pressing collar machine
This machine is use for pressing collar it makes pressing collar more easy and
made the appearance of the pointed edge of the collar is in exact shape
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC
March 10, 2020
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
Press cloth:
Fabric used for press cloth should be colorfast and should be washed or boiled
to remove all sizing.
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This 2 types of pressing machine mostly used in garments industry.
That might develop a shine.
• Pressing rules:
• use proper setting for fabric type to prevent scorching or melting
• test on underside if not certain of proper temperature
• iron along the lengthwise grain of fabric to keep from stretching
garment out of shape
• use a pressing cloth on wool, velvet or any other fabric that might
develop a shine
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC
March 10, 2020
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
SELF CHECK 3.3-3
MULTIPLE CHOICE:
Choose the letter of the best answer. White the letter of your choice on your answer
sheet.
1. This is the automatic handy in pressing fabric.
a. sleeve board
b.ironing board
c.iron
d.steam iron
2. This tools has an adjustable temperature control.
a.steam iron
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b.iron
c.ironing board
d.pressing
3. This is used for hand pressing which is padded and convenient height.
a. iron
b.ironing board
c.pressing
d.steam iron
4. This is well padded miniature pressing.
a. sleeve board
b.ironing board
c.pressing
d.iron
5. This machine use for pressing collar
a. sleeve board
b.ironing board
c.pressing collar machine
d.iron
6. This types of machine mostly used in garments industry.

a. pressing
b.steam iron
c.iron
d.sleeve board
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC
March 10, 2020
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
ANSWER KEY 3.3-3
1. C
2. A
3. B
4. A
5. C
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6. A
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC
March 10, 2020
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
TASK SHEET 3.3-3
Title: techniques in pressing
Performance Objective: Given this information ,materials and equipment, you

should be able to perform the following techniques in
pressing.
Supplies/Materials : fabric
Equipment : iron, ironing board, steam iron, sleeve board
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Steps/Procedure:
3. Gather all materials needed.

4. Prepare the fabric type and equipment.
5. test on underside if not certain of proper temperature
6. iron along the lengthwise grain of fabric to keep from stretching garment out of
shape
7. Use a pressing cloth on wool, velvet or any other fabric that might develop a
shine.
Assessment Method: demonstration. group discussion
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC
March 10, 2020
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you….
1. Determined the equipment needed
2. Enumerated pressing tools and equipment
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3. Understand the procedure in pressing
4. Analyzed the exact temperature in different fabric

in pressing.
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC
March 10, 2020
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
Alicia Pangan
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC
March 10, 2020
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
Sector:
GARMENTS
Qualification:
DRESSMAKING NC II
Unit of Competency:
DRAFT AND CUT PATTERN FOR
CASUAL APPAREL
TCLASS
Alicia Pangan
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC
March 10, 2020
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
This learning material is designed to you in learning at your own pace. To start
with, talk with your trainer and agree on how you will both organize the training for
this module. Most probably your trainer will also be your supervisor or manager.
He/she is there to support you and guide you the correct way to do things. From time
to time you will be required to practice and demonstrate the skills that you’ve learn
In this module you will be requiring some assistance from your trainer (as
instructed in the learning materials.
Activity Sheet where in you will follow series of learning instructions towards
attaining the learning outcome.
This module covers the knowledge, skills and attitudes required in drafting
and cutting basic/block patterns for ladies casual apparel.
The lesson deals with the client’s job requirements in accordance with standard
operating procedure such as the preparation of garment design. It also includes
selection of designs and fabrics and incorporation of special needs of clients in the
design based on procedure. Applying finishing touches for casual apparel .
Alicia Pangan
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC
March 10, 2020
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
Dressmaking
Alicia Pangan
No. Unit of Competency Module Title
Code
Draft and cut pattern of Drafting and cutting pattern GRM743301

1.
Prepare and cut materials of Preparing and cut materials GRM743302

2.
Sew casual apparel GRM743303

Apply finishing touches on Apply finishing touches on GRM743304

4.
casual apparel casual apparel
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC
March 10, 2020
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
UNIT OF COMPETENCY : APPLY FINISHING
TOUCHES ON CASUAL
APPAREL
MODULE TITLE : Applying Finishing Touches

on
Casual Apparel
MODULE DESCRIPTION : This module covers the

knowledge, skills and
attitude on applying finishing
touches, trimming excess
threads, pressing finished
garment and packaging the
finished garment.
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NOMINAL DURATION : 40 Hours
CERTIFICATE LEVEL : NC II
PREREQUISITE :
LEARNING OUTCOMES :
Upon completion of this module the trainees/students must be

able to:
LO 1. Apply finishing touches
LO 2. Trim excess threads
LO 3. Press finished garment
LO 4. Package the finished garment
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC
March 10, 2020
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
LO 1. Apply finishing touches
1. Finishing touches are checked in accordance with garments
design/style specifications
2. Accessories and accents position are marked and attached in
accordance with garment design/style specification
3. Garment is checked for loose threads, missing buttons and
attachments
4. Bodice hems allowances and sleeves are folded and pinned in
accordance with customer’s specifications
5. Hemline allowances are sewn in accordance with the given
stitch/seam specifications
6. Accessories and accents are sewn by hand or machine in
accordance to garment design/style specifications
7. Finishing operations are performed in accordance with customer’s
specifications and company’s procedures.
CONTENT:
● Types and functions of finishing touches
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● Procedure in pressing
CONDITIONS:
● Needles
● Cut fabrics
● Pins
● Testing fabrics
● Threads
● Cutting table
● Tailors chalk/pencil
● Cutting tool
● Tape measure
● Steam Iron
● Cutting shears
● Ironing board
● Specification sheet
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC
March 10, 2020
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
● Model/dress form
● Seam ripper
● Sleeve board/ham
● Testing fabric
● Garment sample
METHODOLOGY :
● Self-paced/Modular
● Group Discussion
ASSESSMENT METHOD:
● Written Test
● Actual performance
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Learning Outcome
This Learning outcome in sew

Read information sheet and assemble garment with
4.1-1 on apply finishing touches information
Answer self check 4.1.1 On Procedure in preparing
Compare answer with answer key garments ,accessories and
finishing touches your be able to
perform .Provide this complete
Tools and materials
Read information sheet 4.1-2 on preparation of fa
fabric before cutting CBLM
Fabric
Pressing equipment
Read information Sewing tools

Sheet 4.1-3 on completing
Finishing touches. Sewing materials
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC
March 10, 2020
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
Accessories and accent

Follow Step and Procedure in
Perform task sheet 4.1-1 assembling garments and
complete accessories and
Check performance using performance accents
criteria
Read information sheet .4.1-3 procedure in
pressing
Complete you task as per
Standard operation procedure
(SOPs) and company timeframe
Perform task sheet 4.1-2procedure in
pressing Trainers evaluate your output as
per required CBT Standards is
attained.
criteria
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Kinds of Fastener
There are four types of fastener which are commonly used. They are
buttons, snaps, zippers and hook-and-eyes.
Buttons
Buttons are the most common fastener used in different types of

garments. Buttons are those with shank and with 2 or four holes. they are
used as fastener or decorations.
Ways of attaching Buttons
1. Square
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC
March 10, 2020
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
2. Parallel
3. Cross
4. Arrow head
5. Common way
When attaching buttons with holes, follow the steps below:
1. Fasten thread on wrong side. Make a

small stitch under the button to be
sewn.
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2. Place a pin on a top of the button and
sew over it. A stem is placed so that
there will be space for the fabric under
the button when the garment is
buttoned. Bring needle up through the
button then to the other hole back to
the fabric. Make several stitches.
3. Remove pin. Insert needle in between

the thread and the fabric. Wind thread
around to make a stem or shrank.
Draw thread on wrong side and fasten.
4. A button with shank can be attached

like a flat button, except when the
needle is inserted under the hole in
the other side of the button. This
button should not be sewn too closely
to the garment if it is to be with
fasteners.
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC
March 10, 2020
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
Snaps
Snaps are used on flat surface where

there is a little stain. These are commonly
used for baby dresses.
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Steps to Follow in Attaching Snap Fastener
. Make overhand or buttonhole stitch on each hole.
1. Fasten thread by making two or three

stitches on the mark.
2 holes. Fasten on the wrong side.
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC
March 10, 2020
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
3. Continue making stitches on the four
Worked Buttonholes
Ladies blouses are usually buttoned from right to left so the

buttonholes should be made on the right of the blouse. Holes through which
buttons pass through are called “buttonholes”. If the blouse is buttoned
down at the front, the buttonholes maybe placed horizontally or vertically.
Horizontal buttonholes are made ½ centimeter outside the centreline. While
the vertical buttonholes are made on the center line. The mark of the exact
length of buttonholes should be ¼ centimeter to ½ centimeter longer than
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the diameter of the button. Buttonholes should be cut crosswise or
lengthwise following are thread of the material. Use sharp and pointed
scissors when cutting the buttonholes. Horizontal buttonholes are made by
making a fan at one end and a bar at the other end while vertical
buttonholes are squared with buttonholes stitches at both ends.
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC
March 10, 2020
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
Worked buttonholes should be:
● spared evenly
● cut following the thread of the fabric
● made correctly according to the size of the buttons
● cut correctly and accurately
● made strong and even
Making Worked Buttonholes
The following are the steps in making worked buttonholes:
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a. Mark the buttonholes.
b. Make machine stitching around the

mark.
c. Cut the holes with a pair of sharp

scissors.
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC
March 10, 2020
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
d. Make buttonholes from right to left.
Start at the side nearest you. Make a
circle with the thread at the point
where next buttonholes stitch is to be
made. Hold the lower edge of the circle
with the thumb. Insert the needle
under the cloth and pull the needle
upwards. Make several buttonholes
stitches up to the end.
e. When the other end is reached, start

making the fan make about 5-7
stitches to make the rays of the fan.
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f. Continue making the buttonhole
stitches up to the other end. Finish end
of the buttonhole by making 2 bar
threads directly across the end. Work
blanket stitches closely over them.
Fasten thread at t
Hook-and-Eye
Hook-and-eye is used to
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC
March 10, 2020
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
Self Check
I. Multiple Choice: Read and understand the items below. Choose the best
answer that will identify the item being described. Write
the letter of your answer in your quiz notebook.
Alicia Pangan
1. There are four types of fastener. Which of the following is the most
commonly used?
a. button
b. hook-and-eye
c. snap
d. zipper
2. This is a way of attaching button with two holes.
a. arrow head
b. common way
c. cross
d. parallel
3. Horizontal buttonholes are made by making what?
a. a fan with one end and bar at the other hand
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC
March 10, 2020
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
b. bars on both ends
c. fans on both ends
d. square on both edges
4. Which is not a characteristic of a well-made buttonhole?
a. buttonholes are overcast
b. cut correctly and accurately
c. cut following the thread of the fabric
d. spared evenly
ANSWERS KEY
1.
2.
3.
4.
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a
b
a
a
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC
March 10, 2020
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
Alicia Pangan
Information Sheet 4.1
PRESSING
Pressing is a application of heat , moisture ,and pressure to shape

●
mold ,or crease fabric ,garments or garments part into the geometric
form
Pressing maybe done

●
During assembly or facilitate other operations and improve quality
●
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC
March 10, 2020
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
Final finishing process
●
The purpose of pressing is to make the fabric smooth or to give it a
●
form,such as turnup or form
Types of pressing equipment and their uses:
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Date Developed:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC
March 10, 2020
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
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Date Developed:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC
March 10, 2020
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
General Pressing Techniques
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● Regulate the iron temperature as directed on the permanent
care label, or on the dial setting for the fabric. If you are unsure
about the fiber content, begin by testing it with low temperature
setting.
● If you are working on the thin fabrics or doing slow work, as in
shrinking or pressing gathers, keep the iron temperature
slightly lower than for heavier fabrics.
● Line and cotton require considerable moisture or eliminating
wrinkle and should be pressed until dry for smooth finish.
● Wool requires moisture in pressing to prevent damage to the
fibers – dry heat maker them brittle.
● Thick materials need more pressure.
● Thermoplastic, man made-fibers are heat sensitive for they tend

to melt and glaze. These fabrics often press better dry.
● Use the tips or edge of the iron on seams, hold the iron above
the fabric and apply it light by easily damaged texture.
● Press with grain.
● Avoid pressing over basting or pins.
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC
March 10, 2020
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
● Press embroidery, brand buttons, and such rough textures from
the wrong side over the soft pad.
● Press collars, lapels, cuff, belts, and pocket first on the wrong
side. Then finish them on the right side very lightly over a press
cloth.
● Avoid lengthwise creases in sleeves or lapels.
● Remove any stains or soil before pressing, as heat would

probably set the stain.
Procedure in Pressing Finished Garments
1. Press interior parts, such as pocket facings, seams, linings, and

shoulder pads.
2. Press dangling parts, such as sleeves and sashes.
3. Press ruffles and gathers before the other parts.
4. Press yoke and shoulder seams before the lower blouse.
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5. Press the top parts of long garment before the lower part, blouse
before skirt, skirt top before lower part of the skirt.
6. Collar is usually the last because its position next to the face is
so important.
7. Hang the garment on a well padded hanger to dry completely,
without crowding.
Characteristics of Well Pressed Garments
Pressing can be added to a garment’s attractiveness. How will

you know if you have pressed carefully? There are some signs
that indicate a well-done job.
● The garment is free of wrinkles.
● The original texture has been preserved.

The original shape of the garment has been maintaine
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC
March 10, 2020
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
Alicia Pangan
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC
March 10, 2020
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
Templates for Inventory of Training Resources
Resources for presenting instruction
As per TR As per Remarks

● Print Resources
Inventory
CBLM 25 pcs. 25 pcs. Met TR Req.
Magazine 10 pcs. 10pcs. Met TR Req.
Pamphlet 25 pcs. 25 pcs. Met TR Req.

● Non Print Resources
Inventory
Slides 10 pcs. 10 pcs. Met TR Req.
Interactive e- Learning materials 5 pcs. 5 pcs.25 pcs. Met TR Req.
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Photographs 25 pcs. Met TR Req.
Resources for Skills practice of Competency #1 ______________________________

● Supplies and Materials
Inventory
Pencil 25 pcs 25 pcs. Met TR Req.
Pattern paper 25 rolls 25 rolls Met TR Req.
Tailor’s chalk 25 pcs 25 pcs Met TR Req.
Dress marker and tracing 25pcs 25 pcs Met TR Req.

wheel
Thread assorted 25 pcs 25 pcs. Met TR Req.
Buttons 2 gross 2 gross Met TR Req.
Zipper’8 25 pcs 25 pcs. Met TR Req.
Record book 25 pcs 25 pcs. Met TR Req.
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC
March 10, 2020
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
● Tools
Inventory
Tape measure 25 pcs 25 pcs. Met TR Req.
Hip curve 25 pcs 25 pcs. Met TR Req.
French curve 25 pcs 25 pcs. Met TR Req.
Meter sticks 25 pcs. 25 pcs. Met TR Req.
L- square 25 pcs 25 pcs. Met TR Req.
Cutting shears 25 pcs 25 pcs. Met TR Req.
Scissors 5 pcs 5 pcs. Met TR Req.
Transparent grid ruler 24’ 25 pcs 25 pcs. Met TR Req.
Sewing box 25 pcs 25 pcs. Met TR Req.
Basin pail 10 pcs 10 pcs. Met TR Req.
Alicia Pangan
● Equipment
Inventory
Single needle Lockstitch sewing 25 units 25 pcs. Met TR Req.

machine
High speed sewing machine 10 units 10 units Met TR Req.
Flat Iron 5 units 5 units Met TR Req.
Ironing board 5 units 5 units Met TR Req.
Cutting tables 10 pcs. 10 pcs. Met TR Req.
Stools 25 pcs. 25 pcs. Met TR Req.
Body forms/model 10 units 10 units Met TR Req.
Button Holler 1 pcs 1 pc. Met TR Req.
Note: In the remarks section, remarks may include for repair, for replenishment, for
reproduction, for maintenance etc.
Date Developed:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC
March 10, 2020
Developed by:
ALICIA A.

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COMPETENCY-BASED

Tarlac Center for Learning and Skills Success

This learning material is designed to you in learning at

COMPETENCY-BASED LEARNING MATERIALS

No. Unit of Competency Module Title Code

Drafting and cutting

Preparing and cut

Apply finishing touches Apply finishing touches GRM743304

UNIT OF COMPETENCY: Draft and Cut Pattern of Casual Apparel

MODULE TITLE : Drafting And Cutting Pattern of Casual apparel

NOMINAL DURATION: 80 Hrs.

1. Plan garments design

1. Customer’s job requirements are determined in accordance with

● Selection of Pattern Tools

● Procedures in Drafting Block Pattern

1. Drafting pattern tools are selected in accordance with job requirements

The participants will have access to:

● Ruler with Grid

Learning Activities Special Instructions

Read information sheet 3.1-2

Do Task Sheet 3.1-2 on Procedure in

Compare Performance to Performance

Types OF Drafting Tools

Draft – a pattern sketch made by following the body measurements

Types of Drafting Tools

Characteristic of the Longer Arm L-Square

Characteristics of the Shorter Arm

B. The Hip Curve

a. Uses. This is used to shape the depth of the neckhole and

Uses. It is used for general marking. It aids in connecting lines.

c. Uses. It is used for general marking and for measuring fabric

1. Pattern Paper- Is an indispensable material used

1. Which devices are used to accurately draft patterns?

Procedure in Drafting Basic/Block Pattern

Salient Measures to Observe in Drafting Patterns

1. Be sure to have an accurate division of the measurement. Use L-

1. Block Pattern – made by drafting from the measurements which have

A perfect fit requires perfect measurement of body, pattern and

5. Which devices are used to accurately draft patterns?

Procedure in Drafting Basic/Block Pattern

Salient Measures to Observe in Drafting Patterns

6. Be sure to have an accurate division of the measurement. Use L-

4. Block Pattern – made by drafting from the measurements which have

Drafting the Basic Pattern

Individual Measurement Chart

Actual Body Measur Computed

● Shoulder 15 38.1 2 7.5 19.0

● Front figure 38.1

Get one-half sheet of pattern

Draw perpendicular line T

● 1-3 = 4 inches (10 cm)

● 1-4 = 5 ½ inches (14 cm)

● 2-5 = bust point height

● 2-7 = front figure

● 8 is the middle of 2 and 7

● Square out 2, 4, 8, 5 and 7 to the right

● Square out 4, 8, and 6 to the left.

15B 17B 16B 6

● 9B – 10B – 1 3/8 inches (3.5 cm). Connect 8B to 10B

● 4-11B = ½ shoulder minus 5/8 inch (1.5 cm)

● 6-14B = ½ bust point width. Connect 13B to 14B

● 6-15B = ¼ waist + 1 1/8 inches (3 cm). connect 12B to 15B

● 19 = is the middle of 8B and 10B. Square down 19