www.liqui-moly.

com

Ausgabe 6/2022

Ausgabe 4/2023
Ausgabe 4/2023

One brand, all solutions

As a world-renowned manufacturer of the highest-quality motor oils, additives, vehicle
care products, chemical repair aids as well as service products, adhesives and sealants,
we offer you the full range for the technical and visual preservation of vehicle value.
A unique variety of products that you can only find at LIQUI MOLY.

With us, you get everything from a single source. This saves you a lot of time and money.
A strong argument for retailers, workshops and consumers alike. Benefit from this added value,
and take advantage of our product range and product expertise!
 Editorial
Martyn Knowles, Editor
Email martyn.knowles@kelsey.co.uk
Follow us on Facebook @ Car Mechanics
Order back issues here: shop.kelsey.co.uk/
single-issue/car-mechanics-magazine

Astra aircon
 I bought the ex-project Vauxhall
Astra J from the magazine when the
time. Fortunately, I was able to use the
local garage’s ramp (thanks Vasstechnik)
Incorrect
acronym printed
 You may have spotted in my
last Editorial my clumsy acronym
mistake. I wanted to say Transport
time came to sell it. I didn’t have a buyer on a Saturday morning to tackle the for London but muddled that up
and the Astra needed to be sold asap. condenser job. The front bumper came with Department of London (which
Of course, I priced the car myself and off relatively easy – a lower threaded doesn’t exist), then went on to
I thought it was a good deal. With a new bolt had corroded and was cut-off abbreviate the department as DfT.
clutch kit just fitted and a new aircon instead of trying to make it undo – this Of course, throughout my raging at
pump a few months earlier, those big bolt holds on the bottom of the bumper the current London ULEZ, I meant
(expensive) jobs had been done. to a rusty (bendy) bracket. We didn’t to reference TfL, not DfT. Sorry
I did, though, have a use for this Astra want that to break. The crash bar (beam) about that – writing this column
– a local lady (Julie) borrows it from me doesn’t need to be disturbed – you lift at the last minute didn’t help. If
occasionally – it’s cheap, really cheap for the old condenser up slightly, and then you read the digital edition, the
her – and the rental fee includes road down behind the bar. above won’t make any sense at all,
tax, the annual MOT and a maintenance The new Nissens part fitted perfectly. as I managed to change my error(s)
package. Many that know about this With a fresh refill of R134a, the aircon for the November digital edition.
arrangement think I’m barmy, but in my was once again blowing extra cold.
mind, I know that most problems can be
sorted by me and if not, the local garage I was able to use the local garage ramp for swapping over the aircon condenser.
are there to help. She handles insurance. Much easier (quicker) to remove the front bumper and drop the wheelarch
Julie was about to exchange my liners out (both sides). Plus the aircon needed degassing anyway before work
2005 MINI for the 2011 Astra J. The MINI could commence. The garage have the facilities to do that and regas afterwards.
rental didn’t exactly go to plan as that
required a new exhaust within a few
months of her driving it, front tyres –
and then the Getrag gearbox started to
whine. That involved bundles of cash
being sent in all directions to get it
fixed. Some you win, some you...
Back to the Astra and I needed to
deal with a couple of jobs before Julie
took delivery. The 1.6 petrol hesitated
at 4000rpm and above. It would jolt
and lack power. Diagnostics said it was
a misfire on cylinder number 4 and
that pointed to a coil pack issue. As you
probably know, the coil pack is one
unit, not individual coils – that cost me
nearly £100 at Autovaux. When fitting,
I noticed the wired plastic connection
to the coil pack was half-broken. On
reassembly I used a cable tie to keep
the socket connection mated together.
Rob Hawkins noticed the aircon
condenser was leaking when the
clutch was renewed, so I ordered one
of those from Autovaux at the same

SUBSCRIBE
 Enjoy your favourite magazine each month by taking out a subscription. Not
only will you save money on the cover price but you will receive the printed
magazine delivered to your door on (or just before) the third Friday of each
month – or a digital copy sent to your Apple or PC device. For further information
on our great deals, please see page 97 or visit us at:

shop.kelsey.co.uk/CME2023
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME December 2023 Car Mechanics 3
 SUBSCRIBE
Contents We are sorry, but apart from material sent to Help! or
exclusive xmas offer
Diagnostics Doctor, not all correspondence can be replied the perfect gift for
to personally, though everything is read carefully. Emails
will be treated in the same way as ordinary mail – the the car mechanic!
editor is not normally available to provide instant replies.
SEE
PAGE
FEATURES 92 97
6 Making Mods
You can modify your car, but there are BUYING ADVICE
rules to follow. We offer you advice in 50 Buying, Owning:
various categories, while keeping you Tesla Model 3
alert to official legislation.

56 Pothole Problem REGULARS

Steve Rothwell looks at why there are WORKSHOP
so many potholes and what you can do 5 Peter Simpson column
if you’re unfortunate to damage your 20 Tales from the Workshop 54 Dealer’s Diary
vehicle while driving into a pothole. Real-life workshop problems, and how
they were fixed. Peter Simpson brings us motoring sales
news – is MG going through a rebirth?
86 CM ex-project cars 40 Clutch Clinic:
We look back at the 40+ cars that we’ve 68 Help!
covered in Car Mechanics over the past
Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCi Your motoring problems answered.
two decades and find out if they’re still 62 Service Bay: 78 Diagnostics Doctor
around today. Part 1, Part 2 next month. Citroën C3 1.2 Your diagnostics-related problems sorted.

82 Electronic Diagnostics: 92 Our Cars

PROJECT CARS Alan Anderson’s son buys a replacement
Jaguar F-PACE 3.0D for his Land Rover Discovery 3 – a 2007
28 Lexus IS 250
Audi A6 Avant Le Mans Quattro, while
Part FIVE: Alloy wheel 34 Peter Clayton continues to fix problem
refurbishment, new tyres and dent
removal – it’s all go... areas on his 2006 BMW 130i.
98 In My Humble Opinion
34 Range Rover 4.4 V8 Mike Humble has bought a couple of
Part SEVEN: Another coolant leak cars from the Editor over the past few
is testing Sam’s patience. This time it’s a years – here Mike updates us on his
major leak from the ‘V’ of the V8 engine. motoring fleet.

CONTACT US
ADVERTISING SALES & PRODUCTION Already a subscriber?
Talk Media Sales Manage your subscription online:

KELSEYmedia Account Manager Natalie Excell shop.kelsey.co.uk/site/loginForm

Tel: 01732 445674
email natalie@talk-media.uk MANAGEMENT
www.kelsey.co.uk Ad Production Nick Bond Managing Director Phil Weeden
Car Mechanics, Kelsey Media, The Granary, email nick@talk-media.uk Subscription Marketing Director Gill Lambert
Downs Court, Yalding Hill, Yalding, Kent ME18 6AL. Tel: 01959 541444 Retail Director Steve Brown
Print Production Manager Georgina Harris
Email: cm.ed@kelsey.co.uk
Car Mechanics is published 12 times a year, on the
SUBSCRIPTIONS Print Production Controllers Kelly Orriss
12 issues of CAR MECHANICS are published per annum and Hayley Brown
3rd Friday of each month, by Kelsey Publishing Ltd.
UK subscription and back issue orderline Subs Marketing Exec Dave Sage
and Claire Aspinall
EDITORIAL 0845 241 5159
Editor Martyn Knowles Overseas subscription orderline Affiliate Marketing Kate Chamberlain
email martyn.knowles@kelsey.co.uk 0044 (0) 1959 543747
Toll free USA subscription orderline DISTRIBUTION
Technical Editor Steve Rothwell Distribution in Great Britain
1-888-777-0275
email cm.questions@kelsey.co.uk Seymour Distribution Limited,
UK customer service team: 01959 543747
For customer service support, please visit 2 East Poultry Avenue, London EC1A 9PT
CONTRIBUTORS Tel: 020 7429 4000
https://help.kelsey.co.uk
Alan Anderson Jake Belder Peter Clayton www.seymour.co.uk
Customer service and subscription postal address
Ian Cushway Andrew Everett Richard Gunn Car Mechanics Customer Service Team, Distribution in Northern Ireland
Rob Hawkins Mike Humble Rob Marshall Kelsey Media, The Granary, Downs Court, and the Republic Of Ireland
Andrew Rolland Peter Simpson James Stanbury Yalding Hill, Yalding, Kent ME18 6AL Newspread, Tel: +353 23 886 3850
Kelsey Media 2023 © all rights reserved. Kelsey Media is a trading name of Kelsey Publishing Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part is forbidden except with permission in writing from the publishers.
Note to contributors: articles submitted for consideration by the editor must be the original work of the author and not previously published. Where photographs are included, which are not the
property of the contributor, permission to reproduce them must have been obtained from the owner of the copyright. The editor cannot guarantee a personal response to all letters and emails
received. The views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the Editor or the Publisher. Kelsey Publishing Ltd accepts no liability for products and services offered by third parties.
Kelsey Media takes your personal data very seriously. For more information of our privacy policy, please visit www.kelsey.co.uk/privacy-policy.
If at any point you have any queries regarding Kelsey’s data policy you can email our Data Protection Officer at dpo@kelsey.co.uk

4 Car Mechanics December 2023 shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME

 The
Peter Simpson
Peter Simpson looks in to the changing contents
of car enthusiast’s car boots over the years.
 How much stuff do you carry with you in your car’s boot?
And how much of it do you actually need?
Once upon a time, I carried a complete toolkit; a full five-
tray cantilevered box which contained, basically, all my hand
tools. On top of that there would be boxes-full of ‘essential’
emergency spares; fanbelt, bulbs, spark plugs, oil and water
plus, because we’re talking about 20-25 years ago at least, a
dizzy cap, coil, rotor arm and a set of contact-breaker points.
Oh, and the most essential item of all, a can of damp-start or
similar. And jump leads. And a petrol can. And a tow-rope. I’m
sure you can see where this is going.
Even that, though, wasn’t always going to be it. There was
a time when pretty-much anything I had that was car-related,
including my trolley jack, went into the boot ‘just in case’. It
was very much a case of ‘if in doubt, put it in.’
All of which impacted on luggage space and, I’m sure,
economy. So much so, that when I was about to go on holiday
or similar, some of the emergency stuff had to come out.
In other words, it had to stay behind at exactly the time it
was most likely to be needed. There was also the issue that
because older car boots were rarely 100% watertight, stuff left
in there long-term might not be fit for purpose when needed.
Nowadays, I don’t really feel the need to carry quite so much
stuff. In part this is because the cars I drive daily nowadays
tend to be more reliable; a combination of car-reliability
generally being better, and the cars I use regularly being
younger. With widespread mobile phone ownership, it’s far
easier to summon help if it is needed.
That, though, doesn’t mean the boots are empty. My daily
driver boot always contains a proper warm reflective jacket, and
I still carry a spare auxiliary belt, plus a set of bulbs and fuses.
Oh, and a couple of pairs of surgical gloves and, as much for old
times’ sake as anything else, a can of WD40 plus a small bottle
of anti-freeze. There’s also an official recommendation to carry
a blanket when travelling in winter. If you do that, put it under
a seat or somewhere else in the passenger compartment rather
than in the boot. That way it’s accessible and hopefully still clean
enough for people to be willing to wrap themselves in.
None of this takes up much space, and even if I never need
any of it, knowing that I have it is reassuring.
But when it comes to the older cars, I still carry a few useful
spares, on the basis that while breakdown assistance may now
be only a mobile phone-call away, the chances of the AA, RAC,
StartRescue or whoever being able to locate spares for a 1990
A couple of weeks ago, when the family Kia Sorento’s radiator
suddenly sprung a leak, we had to use my 31-year-old Rover 827 Coupe
for a family trip to South Wales. The boot swallowed all our luggage –
just – along with the spare expansion tank.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME
COLUMN
Volvo 240 or 1992 Rover 827 Coupe, let alone a 1958 Hillman
Minx or 1970 Rover P6, are slight.
Accordingly, all four have with them a shoebox-sized box full
of parts containing plugs, points, a rotor arm and distributor
cap, radiator hoses, bulbs and fuses, plus straight-blade and
crosshead screwdrivers, an adjustable spanner and a pair of
pliers. Plus, of course, the most useful item of all – a coil of
wire. If you have a means to cut it, wire can be used to secure
temporarily pretty-much anything that’s started to fall off.
There are also a couple of vehicle-specific additions. In the
Volvo 240s glovebox, there’s a spare fuel pump relay, and
the Rover 827 boot also contains a spare cooling system
expansion tank. Both these are known weak spots on these
cars which can be fitted at the roadside if necessary.
Driving abroad
Stuff like this in a box of this size might well strike a chord
with those of you whose families were among the first wave
of Brits to go continental. Back in the sixties and seventies, the
AA offered a continental touring kit of parts. The complete kit
came in a brown box and comprised stuff like that described
above. I’m not 100% sure how it worked, but I think the system
was that you paid the retail price of all the parts at the start
and then, when you got back, were credited, less a hire/
handling charge for anything you hadn’t used.
I’m not sure when this service ceased, but I do remember,
in the early 1980s, the Cambridge-Oxford Owners Club being
offered the remaining stock at a massive discount, though
I’m not sure whether this was because the service was being
discontinued or lack of demand for that particular kit with the
cars in question now all being over ten years old.
There is, though, one thing that I now carry which I didn’t
back in the day because they weren’t available. I’m talking
about a lithium-based jump-starter. Twenty years ago, the very
thought of something small enough to go in a car glovebox
and holding sufficient power to start a car several times would
have been unthinkable. Now, though, they are readily available
from around £60, though mine is the larger version, said to be
suitable for petrol cars up to 3-litre – which costs around £90.
Not only can one of these start your engine in an emergency;
it can also provide backup power for mobile phones and,
assuming your car has a suitable socket, you can even recharge
it while on the move. Worth every penny in my opinion…
Back in the mid-noughties when Editor Martyn ran this Audi 100 Avant,
the large boot area was usually full – there’s also a hidden boot beneath
the main boot. Huge toolkit, bucket, cleaning clothes and a 12V battery
pack (heavy). Plus, still used today – a Draper Screwdriver and Socket Set.
December 2023 Car Mechanics 5
INSTANT EXPERT
Follow Rob
on Twitter:
#CarTechJourno

your
CAR
The scope of vehicle
modifications is
almost limitless,
leading Rob Marshall
and Peter Clayton to
provide an overview
Personalising your car to meet your tastes and needs can be controversial. Whatever
of road-legal changes you decide, ensure that the modifications are executed well and do not make your
that you can consider. car unroadworthy – unless you are not intending to use it on the highway.

E
ven when motorcars were
the sole privilege of the very
wealthy, owners sought to
enhance and customise their
pride and joys. Consequently, a vast
aftermarket industry was spawned,
offering virtually everything from
performance upgrades to economy
improvements. Some of these were very
effective; others less so. Yet, one would
have imagined that, with fewer owners
being willing to get their hands dirty
these days and modern cars being so
capable, modification businesses would
have been killed off years ago. This is far
from the case.
Why modify your car?
While today’s motorcars are cleaner,
more reliable and even faster than their
equivalent forebears of fifty years ago,
they remain compromised. If anything,
manufacturers are even more restricted
than before and have to make decisions
on the specifications, including engine
output and suspension characteristics,
while being bound by not just legislation,
such as those laws involving exhaust
emissions, but also higher customer
expectations. These include issues that
one might not imagine, such as clutch
pedal weight. Then, they have to do all
this within budget.
While some carmakers have had a
decent try at letting drivers customise
everything from interior lighting
ambience to the automatic gearshift
speeds, they cannot satisfy everyone. It
is also worth considering that, despite
our earlier praise, modern cars remain
imperfect. As they age, virtually every
make and model has weaknesses.
Therefore, modifications need not mean
simply customisation – the definition can
extend to resolving a weak spot that tends
to wear relatively quickly in everyday use.

Modifications can subject components to

conditions beyond their operating limits,
which can have disastrous consequences.

Come replacement time, you can upgrade

either the battery capacity, or technology.
Never downgrade to save money, an example
of which would be fitting a conventional
flooded battery to a car that requires an
Enhanced Flooded Battery (EFB).

6 Car Mechanics December 2023 shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME

 MODIFICATIONS

UPRATED PARTS
 Every car possesses parts that wear out faster than others. When quality aftermarket
suppliers detect high demand for specific parts, some of them upgrade these weak
spots. They may use superior materials than those used originally, or even redesign the
component. These parts may be worth considering if your car covers especially high mileages.
Take First Line, for instance. The firm has redesigned over sixty anti-roll bar links in its ‘HD’
offerings, not only by increasing the ball and seat diameters but it has also upgraded the
material. The HD range covers models as diverse as the Peugeot 206 and Audi A4 to Mercedes
and Vauxhall/Renault/Nissan vans. Meyle is another company that offers a heavy-duty range.
As the larger ball pin on a typical Meyle-HD balljoint distributes forces over a wider area, the result
is increased service life. The company also has paid attention to enhancing the weatherproofing
of certain balljoints, a major reason for premature failure. Meyle-HD bushings are also enhanced,
by redesigning the OE bushes at the points where the rubber starts to tear. Hybrid Core technology
defines MOOG’s control arms, balljoints, track rod ends and droplinks, which boast an induction-
hardened ball pin, combined with a carbon-fibre reinforced housing (as pictured).
While it could be argued that these are modified parts, they increase neither the vehicle’s
performance, nor desirability. Therefore, they tend not to be declarable to an insurance company –
but it is always worth checking.

Pre-prep
When deciding whether to modify
your car, or not, think first about
what you wish to achieve. Is it better
performance? Superior economy? More
dynamic handling? How about longer
mechanical life and lower repair costs?
All of these are made possible by quality
aftermarket offerings. After deciding
your aims, do not underestimate the
importance of researching not just if your
goal is achievable but also how you can do
it. Talk to fellow owners, either through
online groups, or independent clubs.
Liaise with professional model specialists
and repairers, too. Be prepared to accept
that many modifications cannot be
made in isolation, particularly those that
increase engine output. One reason for
this is that many associated components
are not designed to handle considerably
greater amounts of power beyond the
standard specification. This is not just
due to the car manufacturers being
keen to suppress costs but consider that
they are under intense pressure to keep
vehicle weight down as much as possible
for optimum carbon dioxide figures.
Therefore, having an engine modified to
produce significantly greater amounts of
torque can shorten the working lives of
the clutch, dual-mass flywheel, or even
the transmission, unless those other
parts are considered and upgraded, where
necessary. This is one reason why you
should not skimp on your research.
Parts supplies
Generally, CM recommends that you
buy parts that meet Original Equipment
quality. This means that they comply
with the same standards as those parts
fitted to the car at the factory. Obviously,
it is very difficult (if not impossible) to
claim that modified parts are OE quality.
While it is true that they can be superior
to those fitted by the manufacturer,
there is an even greater risk of fitting
substandard components. Prioritise not
getting caught out. The motor trade, in
particular, realises that the majority of
counterfeit, or substandard, parts are
supplied through online marketplaces.
We are not suggesting that you should
avoid online purchases completely but be
extra vigilant, should you do so. Buy only
from recognised online shops, or traders.
They might not always be the cheapest
but this is for good reason. Be confident
that the vendor has decent knowledge
about the parts being sold and is not a
‘fly-by-nighter’. A very good indicator
of this is a company with a contactable
UK-based technical helpline.
Can modifying make
my car unroadworthy?
This is a difficult but vital question
to consider. All we can do is provide
background advice with the proviso that
you seek independent legal advice, if
you have specific concerns. While the
MOT Test checks for vehicle condition,
it does not examine every aspect. The
test conditions are also limited, because

There may be engine modifications that

you can make to rectify a reliability flaw.
An example would be converting an
engine to accept a conventional timing
chain, rather than a Belt-In-Oil timing belt.

While various aftermarket suppliers

can satisfy your needs, do not forget
specialist breakers are also viable options,
especially if you are on a tight budget.

shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME December 2023 Car Mechanics 7

MODIFICATIONS
We do not recommend that you repair a safety,
or emissions-control, system by disabling
it. Original Tyre Pressure Monitoring Safety
valves are not cheap to replace, although some
aftermarket suppliers provide alternatives
that work just as well but at a cost saving. You
can install aftermarket TPMS kits that measure
not just tyre pressure but also temperature.
You can modify the properties of engine oil, by
dosing a suitable additive into the sump.
no dismantling is permitted. Therefore,
if your car passes an MOT Test with a
modification fitted, do not presume
that this is an automatic legal sanction.
Generally, the MOT Test also
does not enforce Whole Vehicle
Type Approval. This is an official
confirmation that the car complies
with the necessary standards to be
sold new in the UK. These standards
are based upon UN regulations, dating
back to an international agreement
from 1958. Unsurprisingly, Type
Approval specifications are complex
and detailed but, if you modify the
car so it cannot comply with these
standards any longer, you are making it
unroadworthy. Generally, the driver is
the one responsible legally for driving an
unroadworthy car.
The Department for Transport and
the Driver & Vehicle Licensing Agency
(DVSA) advises that it is an offence in
UK law to alter a vehicle in such a way
that its use on a road would be unlawful
(Road Traffic Act 1988, section 75).
Interestingly the person altering the
vehicle (if they knew or believed that
the vehicle would be used on the road)
8 Car Mechanics December 2023
ROB’S TOP TIP
A car modification
is a change from the
 Many customisation options are manufacturer’s specification.
available for bodywork. However, nothing
must protrude in a way that could injure a
pedestrian and any changes must be fixed
securely. Some addenda are not permitted for
road use, such as excessively tinted windows.
 Road-legal exterior lighting
upgrades are very limited. You cannot
fit HID (as pictured), or LED conversion
bulbs into post-1986 cars; you would
need to replace the whole lamp.
Long-life, or high-output e-marked
halogen bulbs are acceptable.
 Generally, we do not recommend
deviating from manufacturer tyre
specifications. If you do, consider other
aspects, such as speedometer accuracy.
On some high-performance cars, model-
specific tyres may be specified, so do not
choose downgraded replacements. Unless
fitting different rims, avoid deviating from
the standard tyre size and never fit tyres
with lower load and speed ratings than
those recommended by the manufacturer.
Stretching a tyre to fit a wide rim can be
dangerous and you risk an MOT failure. Yet,
you can still choose different tyre brands and
specifications, the most obvious of which are
cold-weather (‘winter’) tyres to improve grip.
These display the snowflake, three-peak and
M&S (mud and snow) symbols.
could also be found guilty of an offence. and e-marking. In the UK, only certain
Fortunately, the UK is one of the more replacement parts must be e-marked. The
relaxed countries within Western Europe main ones are exterior bulbs, safety belts,
for car modifications but do not presume glazing and some exhaust components.
that the authorities adopt an ‘anything- The following stages give an overview
goes’ approach. Currently, road traffic of what you can consider. Yet, should
officers are prioritising modifications you feel that you would like more
that prejudice safety, raise pollutant information about a particular area
emissions and those that are anti-social. and wish us to conduct more detailed
While complete cars must meet Whole research for a future feature, e-mail
Vehicle Type Approval, not every spare your suggestion to Editor Martyn at
part has to go through costly testing martyn.knowles@kelsey.co.uk
INSURANCE IMPLICATIONS
 Insurance companies like to know about any modification that increases
risk. This includes not just performance factors but also those that increase
the likelihood of the car being either stolen, or broken into. Even if you make
a modification that appears to decrease risk, such as upgrading the brake
pads and discs, you should still inform your insurer. If you are unsure about
whether, or not, you should disclose a modification, tell your insurer anyway
and do not presume that your premium will always be increased.
Should an insurer accept your modification, this is not an automatic
sanction that it is road legal. Insurers are not law enforcers – they are neither
the DVSA, nor road traffic officers. We have heard instances of insurers
accepting non-road legal changes but do not presume that this protects you,
should you be stopped at the roadside.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME
 MODIFICATIONS

ENGINE INDUCTION
 Perhaps the easiest
A1 first stage of enhancing performance is
to replace the stock paper filter with a freer-
flowing sports alternative that fits within the
standard housing. Alternatively, dedicated
units can be secured with additional bracketry.
Longer filter life and slight power gains tend to
be the main advantages – as well as increased
intake ‘roar’ under acceleration, should that
be your desire. Due to their very long lives,
sports air filters require maintenance instead
of renewal, such as routine cleaning and/or
oiling. In some cases, a freer-flowing filter Should you seek significant power
may cause the MIL (engine Malfunction
A2 gains from the engine, especially
Indicator Lamp) to illuminate, although the those that involve fitting larger fuel injectors
cause might not be the modification itself. and turbochargers, you may have to redesign
Modern vehicles can enrich the fuel-air and reinforce your air inlet system. Naturally,
mixture automatically to compensate for modifications this extreme dictate that you
increased airflow but carburettor vehicles source the appropriate sports air filter, so you
may need either re-jetting, or retuning for can maximise engine output and efficiency,
optimal high-engine speed operation. without over fuelling.

Intercoolers reduce incoming air temperatures, making it

A3 denser, so more oxygen is available to burn with the fuel.
This advantage is enhanced with water injection. Split boost hoses
and punctured intercoolers cause performance reduction and very
rapid particulate filter filling on diesel models. Upgraded, or larger,
intercoolers are worth considering, although you will need to establish
if the car’s fuelling and turbocharger(s) need upgrading to take full
advantage, otherwise, you may increase turbo lag at the very least.
You can use aftermarket silicone hoses to either replace plastic/
A4 rubber parts that are either very expensive to replace, or
unavailable. Thankfully, these hoses have a variety of uses. Yet, due to
the differing formulations, be certain that the hose you buy is suitable
for the application, especially if it has to handle hot oil, petrol, or
is needed for negative pressure (vacuum) purposes. A good quality
supplier should be able to advise you.

An advantage of using good-quality
A5 silicone hose is that the smooth
internal surface reduces incoming air
turbulence. It also can increase intake noise,
slightly. Should you prefer a more subtle
engine bay look, a greater variety of silicone
hose colour choices is available.
CM does it!
Car Mechanics Contributor, Peter Clayton, has modified cars for over 20 years. One of his
latest projects is a 2001 Volkswagen Lupo GTI, which he has altered extensively for occasional
track use. Changes made to the induction system start with a bolt-on performance manifold
that improves airflow into the cylinder-head. Peter advises that aftermarket air filters can
fit within dedicated canisters, should you prefer not to have the element exposed and the
original air box is unsuitable. There is a choice of different sizes. As you can see, the air filter
has been well integrated into the engine compartment and is mounted securely. He reckons
that the less restricted induction breathing adds between 10 and 15 horsepower.

shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME December 2023 Car Mechanics 9

MODIFICATIONS ROB’S
TOP TIP
With modifying,
have a goal of what

FUELLING you wish to achieve.

Higher capacity fuel injectors are simply bolt-on modifications but should be considered
B2 only with other changes. This includes engine management remapping and physical
changes to the air intake and exhaust systems for superior engine breathing. Fitting different
injectors alone can cause over-fuelling, risking damaging either the engine, or other systems,
such as three-way catalytic converters, which can melt.

 In fast road and

B3 even racing situations,
swirl pots help to avoid fuel
Upgrading the fuel is as easy as dosing starvation that may result
B1 it into your tank. Yet, it is possible that under heavy cornering
higher octane and reduced ethanol petrol, or and/or hard acceleration.
higher cetane diesel, may not deliver higher Effectively, it acts as a fuel
engine outputs, especially with normally- accumulator to ensure that
aspirated engines. Even so, they can deliver the engine is supplied with
smoother running and fewer post-combustion petrol even when fuel is not
deposits. Superior economy can result, present at the pump inlet.
although the savings tend not to offset the Speaking generally, they
higher pump prices. Fuel additives are available tend to be fitted only to
but follow their dosing instructions carefully. highly modified cars.

EXHAUST

There is far more to upgraded exhaust system design

C1 Ifsoyou upgrade the intake system, it is logical that you enhance the exhaust,
the gases can vacate as quickly as possible. Carmakers design exhaust
systems to strike a balance between emissions, noise and engine performance.
This impressive manifolding works in conjunction with bespoke front, centre and
tail sections, along with a freer-flowing sports catalytic converter.
C2 than big bore tailpipes. A common misconception is
that back pressure is entirely undesirable. Some amateur
modifiers have found this to their cost, when an inexpensive
big-bore exhaust has resulted in a power drop. This is
because some back pressure helps the engine to run.

Exhaust system components are one of

C3 the few replacement car parts that must
be Type Approved and wear an e-mark (circled).
Dependent on the car’s age, the UK requires
catalytic converters and diesel particulate
filters to be Type Approved on most modern Fortunately, these requirements have not killed off road-legal sports exhaust systems
vehicles. Yet, EU countries require the silencer
C4 completely and some enterprising specialists are offering complete Type Approved
and pipes to be Type Approved too, because systems. These should be accompanied by the appropriate certificate. Some businesses are also Continued
offering non-Type Approved ‘cat back’ exhausts. These may comply with UK requirements but on page
inferior replacement exhaust systems can
raise emissions and even cause an MOT failure. not those of EU countries, so be wary of this, should you intend to travel on the continent. 12

10 Car Mechanics December 2023 shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME

Specialists in Garage, Bodyshop
and Motor Trade Insurance
Kingfisher Motor Trade is a new name in insurance for motor
traders of all types – from service and repair to MOT stations,
bodyshops to vehicle sales – but we are an established team of
motor trade insurance specialists who between us have over 100
years of experience in the sector.

We offer:
Visits from our friendly, expert team to businesses requesting
a quote
Access to a brand new product for today’s motor traders
Help to get the cover you need to sleep easy at night

0330 174 4703

kingfisherinsurance.com/motortrade
Kingfisher Motor Trade is a trading name of Kingfisher Insurance Services Limited, registered in England No 01469545. Kingfisher Insurance
Services Limited is authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority (FCA) No 310218. Registered office: 768 Hagley Road West,
Oldbury, West Midlands B68 0PJ
DOCIDM272
MODIFICATIONS
EXHAUST CONTINUED
While legal to install, some modified
C5 exhaust systems, especially those with
non-resonator silencers, may cause you to
fall foul of regulations that do not permit a
replacement exhaust system to be louder
than that fitted when the vehicle model was
Type Approved. On most modern cars, the
V5C Registration Document displays this
information openly.
The authorities have been taking
C6 more of an interest in noisy exhausts
in recent years. Traffic officers are being
issued with audio analysers to detect if
a typical exhaust is no louder than 80dB.
UK acoustic camera trials during 2022 and
2023 also earned public support, with the
RAC reporting almost 60% being in favour.
Therefore, when considering a sports exhaust
system, be increasingly vigilant about
increasing hostility about noise.
12 Car Mechanics December 2023
ROB’S TOP TIP
If in doubt, inform your
insurance company of
any changes you make.
CM does it!
 This custom exhaust
has been fitted to
Peter Clayton’s 2006
BMW 130i M-Sport, by
Stainless Creations of
Falkirk. To suppress
noise and avoid
unwanted attention,
our resident modifier
specified a medium-
sized resonator in the
centre box to remove
drone, in addition to
a small silencer that
enhances exhaust tone
but without being
excessively rorty. The
new sections were
sleeved to the original
BMW stainless system.
 Having established that
the original Volkswagen Lupo
GTI manifold and front pipe
were excessively restrictive,
Peter bought an aftermarket
stainless-steel replacement
that incorporated wider ports
with an improved design.
Note that the oxygen/lambda
sensor thread is positioned on
the main pipe, not just on one
manifold branch. This is why
some cheaper systems promote
inaccurate lambda readings,
which affect both emissions,
engine fuelling and, of course,
MOT emissions results. Note
that this manifold is pictured
wrapped partially in a glass
fibre cloth. When complete,
this will reduce engine bay
temperatures, cut catalytic
converter warm-up times and
promote the hotter exhaust
gases to flow quicker through
the system. Peter figures that
this modification alone will add
10 horsepower to the standard
engine’s output.
 The obsession with
C7 passenger car emissions is
one reason why the UK authorities
insist that catalytic converters and
DPFs are Type Approved. Thankfully,
you can buy road-legal ‘sports cats’,
which boast superior flow (of around
30% improvement) but without
prejudicing emissions. Be wary of
unscrupulous manufacturers cutting
costs, by reducing the precious
metal content necessary to treat
toxic fumes, before they enter the
atmosphere (as pictured left). This
is also why you cannot modify your
car to save repair costs, by removing/ As it is illegal to modify a vehicle so
gutting a troublesome catalytic C8 it cannot meet the (Type Approved)
converter, or DPF. While the MOT emissions legislation set when it was new, you
performs a visual check only, the cannot remove other anti-pollution equipment
DVSA is looking at more stringent in favour of repairing, or replacing. This includes
tests that could include ECU checks mapping-out AdBlue systems, venting crankcase
to identify mapped-out emissions fumes into the atmosphere, or disabling and
control equipment. blanking off EGR valves, as pictured.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME
 MODIFICATIONS

BRAKES

Counterfeit brake pads are entering the market. So, if you feel
D1 your brakes need improving, look for OE (Original Equipment)
quality parts and shun the cheapies. Upgraded brake pads are available
through aftermarket suppliers but, as with all modifications, match the
pad specifications with what you are trying to achieve. For instance, As brakes convert motion to heat, fitting larger diameter discs
superior braking at high pad temperatures may come with slight D2 is one modification that can be beneficial for fast road, or
compromises in other situations, such as noise, pedal pressures, or even occasional track use to reduce fade. Aside from performance driving,
cold-temperature performance. Pictured inset is a brake pad for electric this modification may also be useful, if you tow heavy weights, or
cars, designed to prioritise quietness and low-temperature operation. travel down steep inclines regularly.

You may also consider converting
D3 your discs from solid to floating types,
where the centre hub is separate from the
main friction surface. Floating discs tend
to possess superior heat management and
are more resistant to warping from uneven
temperature spread. They can also be lighter,
which reduces unsprung weight, that is
beneficial for handling.
Brakes also must shed heat. If fitting
D4 bigger brakes is not possible for your
car, you can have the discs drilled, which
allows for superior heat energy dissipation.
Ensure that you consult a reputable firm,
so the disc itself is not weakened. Buying Should you decide to upgrade
standard-sized slotted/grooved and dimpled D5 your brake calipers, consider that
brake discs may also be possible from the multi-piston designs provide more even
likes of EBC Brakes, for instance. and higher clamping pressures to the pads.

 The main benefit of replacing nylon-

D6 reinforced rubber brake hoses with
Teflon-reinforced stainless-steel braided flexible
types is reduced swelling, especially under heavy
braking. This results in a firmer brake pedal and
more pressure being applied to the friction linings –
although few non-competitive drivers will notice the
difference. The braid also protects the hydraulic pipe
from physical damage. Yet, consider that rubber
flexible pipes are easier to inspect for defects.

 Racing-specification brake fluid is a

D7 pour-in modification, as you flush the
fluid through as part of your routine maintenance
programme. It possesses a higher boiling point
than conventional DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 fluids, reducing
high-temperature brake failure risk. Unlike
conventional brake fluids, DOT 5 (silicone) does
not absorb moisture but it requires the whole system to be dismantled and seals replaced, before
being used. Some debate rages about whether its slight compressibility creates issues for modern
ESP/ABS systems, which is why some professionals advise against its use.

shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME December 2023 Car Mechanics 13

MODIFICATIONS ROB’S TOP TIP
Buy parts from specialists
with technical expertise,
who can advise you.
DRIVETRAIN

Consider that standard clutches

E2
E1 Ifmodern
you increase engine output, the drivetrain will be placed under extra stress. Many
petrol and diesel engines are equipped with dual-mass flywheels, the
are also compromised and may
lack sufficiently strong clamp pressures to
component parts of which are pictured. They can suffer premature failure on tuned engines. You transmit extra engine power. The resultant
can fit solid flywheel conversions, although this can introduce extra vibration into the cabin and slipping will vapourise the linings rapidly, or
transmission that can induce tiredness and premature mechanical wear/failure. cause more impressive destruction.

 Uprated clutches are

E3 worth considering, which
will exert higher clamp pressures
on the flywheel and will be able
to transmit more torque from the
engine to the transmission. Yet,
the higher pedal pressures can put
a strain on the release mechanism.
Consider also that racing clutches
can have more abrupt bite points,
so ask your supplier for advice,
should this be unacceptable.

 Peter also recommends short shift

CM does it! kits that reduce manual transmission
lever throw, by replacing the lever with
one possessing an altered pivot point.
While you will have to exert more
effort at the lever to compensate, the
shift will be quicker and feel more
positive. Peter fitted his Lupo with a kit
from Coolerworx, which replaces the
original lever with a shifter possessing
a longer arm that sites it closer to the
steering wheel. They are DIY-friendly
to install, because major underfloor
surgery is usually unnecessary,
because the dedicated kit utilises the
original transmission cables.

 While solid-mass
flywheel conversions
can reduce transmission
bearing life, Peter
decided to break into
Peter performed extensive modifications to his Lupo’s gearbox to
his Lupo GTI’s transmission. The replacement replace the stock ‘open’
flywheel is not only solid but also lightened, differential with a
which he reports has had a dramatic effect on limited-slip aftermarket
engine response. As it is several kilogrammes alternative. The aim is to
lighter than standard, there is less mass prevent wheel spin from
for the engine to overcome, making it causing a lack of drive.
freer-revving, even the tachometer needle While some traction-
struggles to keep up. While the modification control systems prevent
has resulted in smoother and faster gear this by applying the brake
changes, he warns about overdoing things. on the affected wheel
A flywheel that is too light increases the hub, this Lupo lacks such a system, dictating another means of limiting the torque applied to
engine stalling tendency and less up-hill the spinning wheel. Limited Slip Differentials are available from respected businesses, such as
performance at lower engine speeds may Quaife and Wavetrac, for a variety of models. While more effective but harsher, Peter did not
result, due to the reduction in inertia that a choose a LSD with a wet clutch pack, preferring instead a Quaife ATB helical LSD, which uses
heavier flywheel provides. Volkswagen’s stock oil specifications and requires no extra maintenance.

14 Car Mechanics December 2023 shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME

 MODIFICATIONS

SUSPENSION

Lowered suspension benefits include less body roll, caused by

F2 the reduced centre of gravity. Select how low you need to go to
achieve your aims and choose the parts from a reputable manufacturer
that are designed and tested for the vehicle you are lowering. Follow
any fitting instructions carefully.

Most suspension modifications centre on replacing the springs

F1 and dampers to create more precise handling and a firmer ride.
The phrase ‘coil over’ relates to spring over damper arrangements.
While a Macpherson Strut, for instance, is a type of coil over, the term
in the modification industry tends to describe height-adjustable
dampers. This is performed, by adjusting the spring seats on the
threaded portion on the damper body.
Cutting springs is, potentially, very dangerous, as is excessive
F3 lowering. Apart from risking sump, driveshafts and steering
joint damage, reducing the ride height too much can induce coil binding,
impact damage to the dampers and extreme suspension geometry
alteration. Should a newer vehicle be lowered excessively, it may not be
possible to calibrate the Advanced Driver Assistance Systems (ADAS).

 Quality ‘polybushes,’ which upgrade

F4 original rubber, create sharper handling
and have a longer service life but only if you
buy quality parts and choose the hardness
rating carefully. Too stiff a bush can promote
creaking and vibration. It can even cause
the metal component, to which it is fitted, to
fracture. Be wary if the original bushes on your
car are designed to assist cross-wind stability,
or create passive steering effects.

 Your supplier should be able to guide

F5 you on the appropriate bush hardness rating for your car that will allow you to meet
your aims. Very generally, 50, 60 and 70 Shore bushes are suitable for subframe and damper
mounts, plus installations where low noise/vibration is desirable. 80-88 Shore tends to be used
for wishbones, or non-coil over damper bushes. 90 Shore is more for leaf spring eyes, or heavy-
duty wishbones and radius arms. Highly loaded coil over damper and trunnion bushes tend to
benefit from 90 Shore bushes. If replacement bushes are unavailable, or have become obsolete,
specialists develop alternative replacements, such as that pictured.

Strut-braces connect to each side

F7 of the suspension mounting points,
to stiffen the bodyshell. Advantages of
this include sharper cornering and slightly
Air suspension failures can be uneconomical to repair on older, low-value cars. Some reduced body roll. Their main disadvantage is
F6 enterprising companies have developed conventional suspension conversion kits, which that they restrict access, especially if installed
are ideal for situations when self-levelling is not an important feature. within the luggage compartment.

shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME December 2023 Car Mechanics 15

MODIFICATIONS THANKS TO:
Spax www.spaxperformance.com
Chris Witor www.superflex.co.uk
TURBOCHARGER

Like ECU remapping, physical turbocharger modifications tend to
G1 be beyond most DIYers. Naturally, the aim is to supply the engine
with the oxygen it needs to burn more fuel than its manufacturer intended.
Modifications include stronger and larger billet wheels to uprated
bearings and ceramic coatings. Again, consult a credible and experienced
company, which can match the product with your aims and budget.
Turbo timers are useful
G2 additions even for standard
cars. They are wired into the ignition, to
keep the engine running for a pre-set period, even when the ignition
‘key’ is removed. This allows the turbocharger vanes to slow and cool,
while the bearings are receiving lubrication.

INTERIOR

Extra information is always useful for the upgraded motorcar

H1 and especially for the mechanically-minded driver. With so This instrumentation example is, perhaps, a little extreme for
many modern cars lacking even a coolant temperature gauge, fitting
H2 road use but shows what is possible. Note the short-shift gear
extra instrumentation tends to be a good idea. lever, installed on this Mitsubishi.

 Racing seats and harnesses might be

H4 appealing but removing safety features,
such as original seat-belt pre-tensioners, will
cause an MOT failure. The same situation would
occur if you fit a racing steering wheel without an
airbag, where one was installed originally. Should
you wish to upgrade these items but keep your
car road-legal, consult the vendor for advice.

Installing aftermarket In-Car-

H3 Entertainment is a good way to keep
an older car up-to-date. However, as many
automotive CAN bus problems are caused by While LED conversion bulbs (arrowed)
careless fitting of such equipment, ensure H5 are illegal to use on exterior lamps of
that you (or your contractor) are sensitive to cars built from 1986, you can still use them to
the car’s communication network. upgrade your interior lighting.

 Security may seem to be a

H6 most boring upgrade – until
your car gets stolen. With keyless car
thefts, especially, being on the rise,
consider aftermarket security options
that keep your car safe. Ideally, they
should be Thatcham-approved.

 Upgrading your cabin/

H7 pollen filter is one of the most
cost-effective and easiest upgrades,
especially if any occupants suffer
from respiratory conditions.

16 Car Mechanics December 2023 shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME

 VIEW THE RANGE

w w w . s e a l e y. c o . u k

EXPERIENCE SUPERIOR QUALITY

WITH SUPERLINE PRO®
DURABILITY, MOBILITY, STRENGTH, SECURITY AND STYLE COMBINED!
@sealeytools
 CM Insider
Martyn Knowles brings you another month of
news and reviews from the automotive industry
Average quoted car insurance premiums soar
 The average quoted price of car insurance rose by 61% in
the year to August – the highest annual increase on record, the
latest Consumer Intelligence Car Insurance Price Index shows.
Average quoted car insurance premiums have also seen a
record 22% rise in the three months from May to August – the
biggest quarterly increase for the index, since tracking began
in October 2013.
Telematics providers are becoming less competitive
accounting for just 17% of the top five quotes compared with
21% just three months ago.
That has particularly hit younger drivers and telematics
providers now account for just 41% of the most competitive
quotes for under-25s compared with 53% three months ago.
Under-25s are seeing rises in quoted premiums of 66.7%.
“Motorists of all ages have seen new business quotes soar
over the last year and many will likely be feeling the pinch
in their household budgets against a backdrop of other
rising costs of living,” says Max Thompson, Insurance Insight
Manager at Consumer Intelligence.
NEW BOOKS
Austin Rover:
Maestro and
Montego
Sam Skelton
 We all know Sam – he's
writing about his 2002 Range
Rover V8 project on page 34.
But did you know Sam has
written this book on the
Maestro and Montego?
Launched in the early 1980s,
the Maestro and Montego
£15.99 RRP
had a shared platform and
www.amberley-books.com
were designed to make
BL competitive in the lower-medium and upper-medium car
sectors. They replaced BL models such as the Austin Maxi,
Morris ITAL and Austin Allegro as part of a renewal strategy by
then BL boss Michael Edwardes. This fascinating book follows
the development of both models as British Leyland strove to
remain competitive in the volume car market.
Launched in 1984, the Austin Montego came with a new
S series engine and class-leading features such as self-levelling
suspension and rear-facing child seats in the estate version,
winning it a Design Council Award. It was also praised for its
good driving position and steering. Like the Maestro, however,
it was compromised by build-quality issues. In the fleet
market, the Montego struggled to compete against rivals such
as the Ford Sierra and Vauxhall Cavalier, largely because both
Ford and General Motors were better placed to offer deep
discounts than BL. By the time the
Countryman estate was introduced ISBN: 9781398102156
Size: 234 x 165mm
with its Perkins 2.0-litre turbodiesel
Paperback 96 pages
engine, the Montego had evolved
150 illustrations
into a highly desirable car.
18 Car Mechanics December 2023
“Competition from telematics has reduced for a second
consecutive quarter. This drop-back in telematics delivering
competitive quotes has likely triggered the sharper increases
in competitive premiums seen this quarter, as telematics
quotes are usually significantly cheaper than traditional
quotes,” adds Thompson.
Average overall quoted premiums have more than doubled
by 102.9% since October 2013 when Consumer Intelligence
first started collecting data. Quoted premiums are at their
highest levels since Consumer Intelligence records began with
66.2% of the increase happening since December 2022.
The over-50s have seen the smallest increases in quoted
premiums in the past 12 months at 56.3% compared with 61%
for those aged 25 to 49 and 66.7% for the under-25s.
Average quoted premiums have risen the most for drivers in
London, the West Midlands and the South East with increases
of 69.5%, 64.4% and 64.2% respectively.
Drivers in the North West are experiencing the lowest rises
in quoted premiums but even they face rises of 55%.
Silverstone's
First Grand
Prix – 1948
Anthony Meredith &
Gordon Blackwell
 It was madness: Grand Prix
drivers racing flat-out from
opposite ends of one long
runway, only to turn away from
each other at the last moment
at corners improvised with hay
bales. But such was the major
part of the first Grand Prix
course ever to be devised £16.99 RRP
at Silverstone. Fortunately
www.amberley-books.com
there were no head-on
collisions, and the next year the organisers hit on a more
sensible arrangement. But none of the many subsequent
Grand Prix at Silverstone, for all the ever-increasing glamour
and hype, have quite engendered the same excitement as
that very first one in 1948, even though it was held on a
long-disused airfield bereft of modern amenities.
Silverstone’s First Grand Prix is a vivid recreation of that
important day for British motor sport. But it is more than just
the description of one historic race. Follow the various leading
participants, both drivers and organisers, as fate draws them
inexorably to Silverstone from different parts of the world and
from very varied experiences, not least in the recent war. And
after that one glorious day in early October is over and the RAC’s
International Grand Prix of 1948 has become part of motor
racing history, we learn what fate had further in store for them.
For a chance to WIN a copy of this
ISBN: 9781398120662
book, please email the Editor at: Size: 234 x 165mm
martyn.knowles@kelsey.co.uk Paperback 128 pages
with Grand Prix in the subject line. 180 illustrations
Have a new product to market? Send details to cm.ed@kelsey.co.uk CM Insider

News in Brief HELLA warning on starter motor problem cause

LKQ Euro Car Parts
introduces numberplate
printing
 Garages and bodyshops
can now order new
numberplates from 200+
LKQ Euro Car Parts
branches, as the aftermarket
specialist bolsters its
position as a one-stop-shop
for workshops’ needs. The
rollout of new printing
machines will allow trade,
bodyshop and key account
customers to order high-
quality plates in-branch
and over the phone, which
can be printed in just two
minutes. The machines print
on Oralite reflective with an
acrylic overlay, delivering
an ultra-high quality and
durable finish. The garage’s
details are also printed at the
bottom of each plate, which
are 100% UK road legal.
 With the cooler months ahead set to place more stress
on starter motors, HELLA is reminding technicians of the
need to diagnose faults carefully.
The risks of jumping to the wrong conclusions
are illustrated by frequent starter motor failures for
2008-onwards Renault Masters fitted with 2.0 dCi M9T
or M9R engines. The same problem has also afflicted the
Renault Traffic, Nissan Primastar and even the Qashqai.
“The vehicle will present in the workshop with a failed
starter motor,” said Ian Mattacola, Product and Brand
Manager at HELLA. “Unfortunately, if you simply fit a
replacement without properly investigating and looking out for some tell-tale signs, then you
can soon be faced with the headache of the new part failing quickly as well.”
HELLA’s technical team says starter motors for these vehicles often fail due to excess load
because the ignition switch ‘sticks’ leaving the starter motor engaged for too long. This ‘sticking’
can be caused by ageing electrical switch mechanisms being slower to disengage or more
often by a broken or weakened mechanical spring failing to return the ignition switch back to
the initial position as it should.
When the starter motor remains engaged like this whilst the engine is running, for even short
periods of time, the load and resulting heat can quickly burn-out the motor. Careful assessment
of the failed unit is essential; look out for blue discolouration around the armature shaft –
caused by excess heat, or signs of a milled pinion – resulting from high-speed rotation.
If such damage is found, then the ignition switch is the likely culprit. However, it’s important
to be aware that extended starter motor running may also be caused by poor engine starting.
Also, even if the failed starter motor does not obviously show these signs, technicians should
still check electrical connections for any corrosion as well as the ring gear on the engine
flywheel for signs of damage.
Further information on the HELLA’s range of starters and alternators visit https://www.hella.
com/techworld/uk/Car-parts/Auto-electrics/Starters-and-alternators-47468/

NEW FROM SEALEY

COMPETITION
1L Premium Pressure WINNERS
Solvent Sprayers & IMPACT WRENCHES
Colour-Coded Caps H SMITH
C BRADWELL
Combo SCSGCOMBO
£149.94 RRP
C MUTLOW
CHEMICAL SAFE Q What is the maximum
www.sealey.co.uk torque of the CCIW160
Suitable for use with impact wrench in Newton
most brake cleaners, detergents, traffic film Metres?
removers, penetrating oils and weedkillers. A 160
VITON® SEALS Can be used with a wide
range of semi volatile chemicals that would TROLLEY JACK &
deteriorate standard seals. FOOT PUMP SET
PREMIUM QUALITY Robust composite S ROGERS
construction with a 1L capacity container. R INMAN
Q The length of the Clarke
MULTI-COLOUR Different coloured caps can Aluminium Trolley Jack is?
be used to identify different chemicals. A 520mm
CONTENTS 3 x SCSG04 1L Premium Pressure
Solvent Sprayers with Viton® Seals + SCSGC
5pc Pressure Sprayer Colour-Coded Caps.

Transmission Oil Filler Adaptor – VS70098

£29.94 RRP
VAG 7-Speed & 8-Speed DSG www.sealey.co.uk

DSG OIL FILLING ADAPTOR FOR 7-SPEED & 8-SPEED TRANSMISSION

Compatible with 1.2 TFSI, 1.4 TFSI, 1.8 TFSI, 1.5 MPi, 1.6 TDI engines.
OEM TOOL ASE40910100000
Allows simple filling of the gearbox.
Also suitable for PORSCHE – 8-speed ZF 8DT transmissions.
For use in conjunction with Sealey VS7009 –
Transmission oil filling system.

shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME December 2023 Car Mechanics 19

 Tales from
the workshop
Fixing advice from our garage proprietor Steve Rothwell

SEAT TOLEDO The failed leak-off pipes were the source of the

Smelly engine
escaping diesel fuel causing the pungent odour.

 The smell of diesel fuel is not one of my

favourite scents, and when this is being
evaporated into the air from a hot engine it
causes a most unpleasant odour. The owner
of this 2000 SEAT Toledo 1.9 TDI agreed that
the smell coming from under the bonnet
was not pleasant and he asked me to have a
look at resolving the issue.
Lifting the bonnet, it did not take long
to spot the area of the problem, and the
leak-off pipes could be seen to be weeping
diesel. The solution was thankfully going
to be quite simple, and a new set of leak-
off pipes once fitted would be all that was
required to prevent the leaking of diesel
fuel over the hot engine.
As is often the case, the removal of the
old pipes was more difficult than the fitting of the new ones, and when pulling the pipes free from the injectors, they
suddenly became very attached and were determined to leave some of the pipe behind.
Once the remnants of the old pipes were fully removed, the new pipes were soon pushed into place, and after cleaning off
the remaining diesel residue from the block, the engine was started up and it was confirmed that no leaks were now present.

VOLKSWAGEN POLO VAUXHALL ASTRA

Steering troubles Coolant leak

 The steering on this 2010 VW Polo 1.4 had suddenly become
very difficult to turn. The owner had thought that the steering
was getting a little harder to turn but had not noticed the
extent of the problem until attempting to park at the side
of the kerb. At this point the steering light also appeared
confirming that a problem was present, and so the motor was
brought along to me for a diagnosis.
The code P0635 was read off indicating a power steering
control – circuit malfunction. Further investigation proved
that the hydro-electric motor
control unit was the source of
the problem.
Searching around for a
more realist price than that
offered by VW, I found a
factor unit for £350. Still quite
a sting for the owner who
then with the labour and the
new fluid had a bill of just
over £500 but he was pleased
with the lighter feel of the
steering and commented that
he thought it may have been
going for a while.
The electro-hydraulic power steering pump and control unit hidden up
under the nearside front of the vehicle were the source of the problems.
 Having to top up the coolant header tank at regular intervals
the owner of this 2010 Vauxhall Astra 1.6 knew that the coolant
was leaking out somewhere. He had carefully inspected the
radiator on the hoses but could see no sign of the leaking fluid.
He had also had a good sniff inside the vehicle to see if he could
detect any signs that the coolant was leaking out through the
heater matrix, but to date could not solve the mystery. His
next step was to ask me to perform a pressure test, with his
concern being that the head gasket may be the problem.
Putting the cooling system under pressure I was able to see
that the pressure did drop, the next stage was for me to find
where it was going. One clue that I spotted that the owner
had not seen was a slight pink staining on the sump near the
crankshaft pulley.
After spotting this I decided
to remove the auxiliary drive
belt to get a better look at the
water pump. Removing the
water pump drive pulley to
expose the body of the pump
I could see that this was
covered with the light pink
staining which was the tell-tail
sign that this was the problem.
The pink dusty marks on the water pump were a good
indication of where the leaking coolant was escaping.

20 Car Mechanics December 2023 shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME

 Tales from the Workshop

MERCEDESBENZ ML
Follow Steve

Slack drive on Twitter:

www.twitter.
com/cmtips

chain VOLKSWAGEN GOLF

 The owner of this 2005
Mercedes ML350 could hear a
strange clicking noise from the
drivetrain. After a little research
Failed catch
they discovered that this could be  The secondary bonnet
a drive chain issue and so came catch is often referred to
along to ask my advice. as the safety catch, and
Sure enough the problem did for anyone who has had a
turn out to be the drive chain bonnet open at speed, they
in the transfer case that was will know just how much this
slapping about and giving the second catch adds to the
unwanted clicking sound. This safety of the driver.
is a pretty hefty chain and at The play in the drive chain was easy to spot once the cover was As a part of our service
only 130,000 miles I would not stripped off and could have been a serious problem if not addressed. regime the secondary
normally expect this to be in such catch is always checked to
ensure that it is free to move
a poor condition.
and will spring back into
Once the propshaft and the
position after opening. The
transfer case cover were removed,
importance of this catch
the problem was confirmed and
operating correctly cannot
the play in the chain was easily
be over emphasised and if
seen. This was a just in time repair,
after opening the bonnet,
as I have heard of these chains
it has not been closed fully,
breaking free and causing havoc
once the vehicle gets up
– and so thankfully with no other
to speed and the air gets
damage the chain was renewed,
under the bonnet, without
and the transfer case cover
this small catch the bonnet
refitted and filled with the half a
will quickly fly up, covering
litre of ATF 3353 as specified.
the screen and blinding the
The drive of this ML was now a
driver’s line of vision.
little smoother with no unwanted
This 2007 VW Golf was
clicking or clattering. in for a routine oil change,
and when the bonnet was
opened, I did as I always
FORD Ka The Lambda reading was not do, and checked this small
catch to ensure that it was
MOT issues
related to a sensor issue, but
the air entering via the failed operating freely. This one
exhaust flexi section. A new was not, but it only took a
 This 2010 Ford Ka had just failed its pipe cured the problem. small amount of time and
MOT with a Lambda reading outside a little oil, to get the catch
parameters. The owner had taken the springing back into place
motor to another MOT centre as he had freely after each operation.
a voucher deal, and now presented I could now be confident
with the failure asked me to replace that even if the owner failed
the Lambda sensor causing the issue. to fully close the bonnet,
I first explained to him that the the safety mechanism back
Lambda reading being outside the up would at least operate as
parameters was not indicating a intended.
failed Lambda (or O2) sensor, but
was showing that the reading was
indicating that the fuel to air ratio
mixture was incorrect.
Whilst this may have been due to the
reading given from the O2 sensor to the engine control unit, this is not always the case.
After inspecting this Ka, I could confirm that the problem was actually that the Lambda
reading was high at 1.09 – the accepted levels are 0.97-1.03 with the ideal reading as being
1.0, the reading of 1.0 would indicate the perfect mixture of 14.7 grams of air to one gram
of fuel. The high reading on this Ka was indicating a weak mixture being measured at the
exhaust, but this was not due to fuelling issues, but something much simpler. The exhaust
had a small leak that was allowing air to enter it, so when the mixture was measured at the The small secondary bonnet catch
tailpipe, this was giving the weak mixture due to the extra air. is an important safety mechanism
The solution to this was a new exhaust pipe, which after being fitted allowed the to ensure that the bonnet will not
almost perfect Lambda reading of 0.99. fly up in the event of the main
catch not being secured.

shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME December 2023 Car Mechanics 21

Tales from the Workshop

SUBARU LEGACY

Timing belt
time
 This 2005 Subaru Legacy
had now covered 84,000
miles – the present owner
had imported it in 2016 and
was hoping to keep it in the
immaculate condition it was
in, for some time yet.
Unlike the vast majority
of engines, if the timing belt
on this one fails, damage is
unlikely to occur, but that
doesn’t mean that it would
not be inconvenient to
suddenly break down due to
the cambelt failure.
With a book time of only
1.4 hours, there is little The timing belt is
nice and accessible
reason to put this job off
and an easy task to
longer than necessary and complete on this
as the replacement interval flat-four engine.
is set at 60,000 miles or five
years, the owner was happy to be cautious and have the belt replaced a little earlier than the recommended interval.
This is a nice straightforward job, and the procedure is not too complex. The owner was happy for the full kit consisting
of the timing belt, tensioners and the water pump to be fitted, ensuring a few years of worry-free motoring.

GENERAL BMW 3SERIES

Clip release ABS issues

 I often receive enquires or get asked about how to release
the clips on fuel pipes and injector connections. These are
normally quite simple, but it certainly doesn’t hurt to ensure
that the release procedure is documented. The connectors
– both the electrical injector plugs and the fuel pipe
connections can become tight, and when this occurs, doubt
sets in as to if the correct procedure is being observed.
So just to confirm, both the connectors shown in the
pictures require the clip indicated to be press inwards toward
the main body of the connector. I have seen in the past where
a tight connector has caused frustration and, in an effort to
remove the connector, the securing clip has been levered out.
This will only leave you with a possibly useless connector
that will then not reconnect and clip into place. If after
pressing the release mechanism in fully. The connector does
not appear to be releasing, the next step is to give a little
wiggle or a slight twist to the body of the connector.
Hopefully then it will release without resorting to the
demolition of the unit.
 When the ABS light appeared on this 2011 BMW 318d the
owner was concerned that she would not be able to continue
her journey. She called me and asked if the car was still safe
to drive. The fact is that the ABS light being on is indicating
that the anti-lock braking system is not operating, and in the
event of emergency braking action, the wheels may lock up.
The brakes will still work and if the driver knows that extra
caution needs to be taken, then the vehicle is safe to drive to
complete a journey.
The problem is often a failed sensor, or a corroded reluctor
ring, but on this BMW the fault was a combination of both
issues. The reluctor ring had corroded and expanded, and then
worn into the wheel speed sensor. A new reluctor ring and
sensor was needed and the driveshaft removed and cleaned
up to accommodate the new reluctor ring.
Once all back together and the system cleared of the fault
codes, the Beemer was given a quick drive to ensure that all
was now well, and the ABS was operating correctly again.

Pushing the fixings in the direction

of the arrows will release the clip, but
the connectors can still be sticky and The corroded ABS reluctor ring had
need a little persuasion to move. worn into the wheel speed sensor.

22 Car Mechanics December 2023 shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME

 Tales from the Workshop

The bearing had collapsed damaging the clutch MINI ONE

Brakes
cover and the guide tube needed replacing as well.

and bearing
 There had been what had
been described as a whirring
type of noise from the rear
of this 2013 MINI ONE 1.6,
for a little while now, but
this had now developed
and the owner was feeling
a vibration from the rear
when braking.
Jacking the back up and
spinning the wheels the
bearing noise was quite
evident, and once stripped
down, it could also be
CITROËN BERLINGO felt to have a little play in

Clattering clutch the bearing. This was not

excessive but was certainly
enough to have allowed the
 Hearing a slight scraping type noise when the brake disc to wear unevenly
clutch was depressed, the owner of this 2009 and when checked with a
Citroën Berlingo III 1.6 HDi, decided that this could micrometre, the variation
wait a couple of weeks before it would need attending to. The next day, after depressing the in the thickness of the
clutch, the scraping sound was far worse and after that point every time the driver depressed brake disc was outside the
the clutch, he also became depressed. tolerance of 0.010mm.
The job to replace the clutch on this van is given a 6.1-hour book time and given the scraping The answer was a new
noise the owner was now hearing, he was hoping that the cost of the job was not going to be hub bearing along with a
escalated due to his procrastinating about getting the work done. new set of rear brake discs
With the Citroën in the workshop and the gearbox removed, I saw the expected sight of the and pads. The bearing on
release bearing having collapsed and damage to the guide tube it runs on. Thankfully for the this MINI comes complete
owner, there was no other damage and once the new clutch, release bearing and guide tube with a new flange, and the
were replaced, the Citroën was back on the road with a quiet and efficient clutch. replacement job is quick
and easy given a book time
of 0.75 hours. With the new
FORD FOCUS With the front of the Focus stripped off there is a flange and the new disc,
I was confident that the run

Coolant
lot more access and the job is easier to carry out.
out was going to be very
low, and this was confirmed

loss
with the DTi before bolting
everything up.
The road test confirmed all
 Occasionally spotting was now well and the MINI
a little trace of what returned to the owner.
looked to be smoke
coming from the front
of his 2014 Ford Focus
1.6 SCTi EcoBoost, the
owner decided to check
the levels just to ensure
everything was OK.
Lifting the bonnet, he
then noticed that the
coolant header tank was low, and so phoned me up asking if I could have a look.
With the motor up on the ramp, and the coolant pressure tester in place and pumped
up, I could see the coolant running from the base of the radiator. Closer inspection
confirmed that it was the radiator at fault, and this would need renewing.
Sitting tightly at the front of the motor the job time on this one is 1.7 hours, and whilst that
is doable, it doesn’t really take account of the time to then refill the system and bleed it out.
The manual gives the instructions that the radiator should drop down from underneath
once the supporting bracket has been removed, but due to sticking hoses and corroded
fixings it can often be easier and quicker to remove the front of the vehicle to give clear
access to the radiator pipes and fixings. The new Blue Print bearing
With this done the radiator could be replaced and it is much easier to locate the top comes complete with the flange
fixings when they can be seen. and so has a nice clean face for
the new disc to sit on.

shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME December 2023 Car Mechanics 23

 COMPETITION

DEVIL 700
worth

£143 .98

1
to be
WON!
DEVIL 700
Variable output
30,000-50,000 BTU/hr
Dimensions (LWH)
425 x 215 x 340mm
Weight 5.3kg

These propane space

heaters are ideal for small
workshops or home garages.
The Devil 700 has electric-
controlled ignition, making it
easy to start. Supplied complete
with handle, regulator and gas hose.
Despite the heater’s small size, the
Little Devil II heater emits an exceptional
35,000 Btu per hour/10kW heat output, easily
enough to warm small areas up to a comfortable
temperature quickly and efficiently. It comes
complete with a regulator and
heavy-duty gas hose.

LITTLE LITTLE
DEVIL II DEVIL II
Fixed max output

£113
worth
35,000 BTU/hr
Dimensions (LWH)
.99 465 x 210 x 325mm

2
to be
HOW TO ENTER: Entry is free. ONLY ONE ENTRY PER HOUSEHOLD PLEASE. Follow the
instructions below. No correspondence can be entered. One winner will receive a Devil 700
WON! and two winners will each receive the Little Devil II. Closing date for entries is January 3,
2024. Results will be published in the FEBRUARY 2024 issue – due out January 19, 2024.

To enter this competition simply go to the website below and input your details
Please visit our website
https://bit.ly/3SkamN2
and follow the instructions on the page to enter the Clarke competition
Type the above into a browser address line and NOT a search engine
Car Mechanics magazine will only use the data you supply on your entry to contact you if you are the winner. The winner’s details will be passed on to Clarke International Ltd for
the sole purpose of organising the delivery of your prize. All competition entries will be held securely until the prize draw has been made and then securely disposed of within seven
days of the winners being chosen. The winners’ details will be held for a period of one month until the prize has been dispatched and received, then they will be securely disposed of.
34012

• Sturdy lower shelf

• Durable powder
coated finish
ENGINEERS HEAVY
DUTY STEEL
WORKBENCHES 65 BEST
5 DRAWER
WORKBENCH
£
PRICE CUT
329
DOUBLE.00
SELLER
exc.VAT
FROM ONLY £394.80 inc.VAT
SUPERSTORES DOUBLE
289
£ DOUBLE.98
DOUBLE
exc.VAT
NATIONWIDE
WAS £406.80 inc.VAT
£347.98 FOOTER
inc.VAT 1700mm WORK TOP
EXTRA LONG
Shown fitted with
optional 3 drawer
unit ONLY £188.39
INC VAT INCLUDES
* WAS £370.80 inc.VAT SINGLE
# WAS £406.80 inc.VAT LOCKABLE
DRAWER
Dims.

Britain’s Tools & Machinery Specialist

Model LxWxH (mm) exc.VAT inc.VAT
CWB1500D 1500x650x985 £289.98 £347.98
CWB2001P* 2000x650x865 £299.00 £358.80
CWB2000D# 2000x650x978 £329.00 £394.80 CWB1700P

MODULAR GARAGE
STORAGE SYSTEMS
SAVE
FROM ONLY UP TO
£
1198
DOUBLE .00
exc.VAT
£286 Customer Pictures
compared to
DOUBLE FOOTER
£1437.60 inc.VAT individual
prices

✔ CREATE THE PERFECT FITTED GARAGE / WORKSHOP

10 PACKAGES ✔ HEAVY DUTY, PROFESSIONAL PACKAGES
A choice of stainless steel
IN THE RANGE Corner units in stock
or wooden worktops ✔ ALL UNITS ALSO AVAILABLE SINGLY FOR CUSTOM BUILD

1 NEW
PRICE CUT
154exc.VAT
£ DOUBLE.99
HEAVY DUTY &
£185.99 inc.VAT
DOUBLE
WAS £191.98 inc.VAT
PROFESSIONAL CHESTS/ 1 169
£ FROM ONLY
.98
DOUBLEEXC.VAT
259.00 FOOTER
£203.98 inc.VAT
THE ULTIMATE CABINETS
IN TOOL
STORAGE!
• Extra heavy gauge Combines premium quality
double wall steel with fiercely competitive
construction pricing & super smooth ball
bearing roller drawers
FULL DETAILS - 30KG
SEE IN-STORE OR SEE WEBSITE FOR MAX
DRAWER
VISIT WEBSITE PACKAGE DEALS LOAD

2 32 PIECE WITH TOOLS

Rubber
£
PRICE CUT
279exc.VAT
DOUBLE.00
SET
EXTRA
grip side
handles
£334.80 inc.VAT
DOUBLE
WAS £346.80 inc.VAT HUGE CHOICE OF
SAVE
UP TO
£12
LARGE
HAND TOOLS inc.VAT BOTTOM
exc. WAS NOW PRICE CUT DRAWERS
Model Desc. LxWxH (mm) VAT inc.VAT inc.VAT 56exc.VAT
£DOUBLE.99 PRICE CUT
CBB203C
CBB205C
3 Dr step up
5 Dr chest
667x310x249 £86.99
710x315x420 £149.98
£107.98
£191.98
£104.39 £68.39 inc.VAT
DOUBLE
£179.98 PRO378 WAS £71.98 inc.VAT Model Desc. LxWxH (mm)
WAS NOW
exc.VAT inc.VAT inc.VAT 2
£
259
DOUBLE.00
exc.VAT
£310.80 inc.VAT
1 CBB209C 9 Dr Chest 661x305x418 £154.99 £191.98 £185.99 PROFESSIONAL CLB600 6 Dr chest 660x305x365 £135.99 £163.19 WAS £322.80 inc.VAT
CBB210C 10 Dr Chest 710x315x475 £169.98 £209.99 £203.98 1 CLB900C 9 Dr chest 685x305x474 £169.98 £203.98
NB Overall length CBB215C 5 Dr Cabinet 758x468x815 £259.00 £322.80 £310.80 1/2" DRIVE CLB1005 5 Dr cabinet 685x465x795 £239.00 £286.80
includes handles 2 CBB217C 7 Dr Cabinet 676x461x958 £279.00 £346.80 £334.80 SOCKET SET 2 CLB1007C 7 Dr cabinet 740x465x955 £259.00 £322.80 £310.80
1 89
£FROM ONLY
.98
DOUBLE
exc.VAT
DOUBLE
FOOTER
£107.98 inc.VAT

TOOL SETS 109

£ FROM ONLY
.98
DOUBLEexc.VAT
DOUBLE
£131.98 FOOTER
inc.VAT NEW
FULL EXTENSION
ROLLER
PRO396 222 PIECE DIY & PROFESSIONAL RUNNERS
TOOL SET WITH MECHANICS/ FOR SMOOTH
3 74
£FROM ONLY
.99
DOUBLE
exc.VAT
DOUBLE PROFESSIONAL OPENING ACTION
7 DRAWER TOOL FOOTER
£89.99 inc.VAT
CABINET TOOL CHESTS/ •forSuperb quality & value
DIY & Professional
CABINETS workshops
NOW
Model Desc. LxWxH (mm) exc.VAT inc.VAT
MECHANICS RANGE
PRO394 1 CTC600C
CTC900C
6 Dr chest
9 Dr chest
600x260x340 £89.98
597x257x380 £89.98
£107.98
£107.98
PROFESSIONAL 90 CTC500C 5 Dr cabinet 675x335x770 £149.98 £179.98
PIECE TOOL KIT CTC800C 8 Dr chest/cab set 610x330x1070 £149.98
2 CTC700C 7 Dr cabinet 616x330x880 £169.98
£179.98
£203.98
WITH CANTILEVER PROFESSIONAL RANGE
3 CTC103C 3 Dr step up chest 691x310x256 £74.99 £89.99
TOOLBOX CTC109 9 Dr chest 662x305x421 £139.98 £167.98
4 239
£ FROM ONLY
.98 4 CTC105 5 Dr cabinet 685x465x790 £239.98 £287.98 2
DOUBLEexc.VAT CTC107C 7 Dr cabinet 739x461x953 £259.00 £310.80 169
£ FROM ONLY
.98
649
£ FROM ONLY
.00
DOUBLEexc.VAT
DOUBLE
CHT634 DOUBLE
£287.98 FOOTER
inc.VAT DOUBLEexc.VAT
DOUBLE
£203.98 FOOTER
inc.VAT
£778.80 FOOTER
inc.VAT MECHANICS TOOL BOLTLESS WORKBENCH
CHT859 300 PIECE CHEST AND TOOLS SHELVING / WITH PEGBOARD
Easy to assemble,
AF/METRIC HOME PACKAGE BENCHES providing valuable
GARAGE REPAIR working space and
plenty of additional
KIT CHOICE OF 5 COLOURS storage capacity.
• Dimensions
Simple fast (LxWxH)
RED, BLUE, GREY, assembly in minutes
SILVER & GALVANISED using only a hammer - 1150 x 560
STEEL x 1440 mm
• Pegboard back
wall with 30
Strong Strong hooks
150 9mm
fibreboard
KG
350 KG
12 mm
fibreboard
supplied
shelves shelves
PER SHELF PER SHELF

FROM ONLY
Dims exc. inc. Available
Model WxDxH(mm) VAT VAT in Red or
189
£ FROM ONLY
.98
DOUBLEexc.VAT
DOUBLE
279
£ FROM ONLY
.00
DOUBLEexc.VAT 42
£ DOUBLE
.99
DOUBLE
EXC.VAT
FOOTER
£51.59 inc.VAT
150kg 800x300x1500 £42.99 £51.59
350kg 900x400x1800 £59.98 £71.98
Galvanised
Finish
£227.98 FOOTER
inc.VAT DOUBLE
£334.80 FOOTER
inc.VAT CWB-R1B
34355LH

£
FROM ONLY
119DOUBLE.98
TURBO AIR
COMPRESSORS
exc.VAT
Superb range ideal
for DIY, hobby &
65 DRILL
PRESSES
CDP102B

Range of precision
DOUBLE
£143.98 FOOTER
inc.VAT semi-professional use SUPERSTORES bench & floor presses
NATIONWIDE for enthusiast, FROM ONLY
engineering
& industrial 99inc.VAT
£ DOUBLE
DOUBLE
.95
exc.VAT
£119.94 FOOTER
applications
B = Bench mounted F = Floor standing
Motor (W) WAS
model Speeds exc.VAT inc.VAT inc.VAT
CDP5EB 350 / 5 £99.95 £119.94
CDP5RB 350 / 5 £99.95 £119.94
CDP102B 350 / 5 £115.95 £139.14
CDP152B 450 / 12 £209.00 £250.80

Britain’s Tools & Machinery Specialist CDP452B 550 / 16 £299.00 £406.80 £358.80
CDP352F 550 / 16 £339.00 £406.80
CDP502F 1100 / 12 £699.00 £934.80 £838.80

TURBO DUAL DIESEL/PARAFFIN FAN HEATERS ELECTRIC HEATERS

FAN GAS VOLTAGE HEATERS 2.8kW
FROM ONLY
8/260 230& 69
£ DOUBLE
.98
HEATERS Ideal for fast efficient heating DOUBLE
EXC.VAT
BEST
Offering low cost,
110 Extra-long run fuel tanks – up 2850 FOOTER
£83.98 inc.VAT
SELLER
Model Motor HP CFM Tank ltr exc.VAT exc.VAT efficient heating
VOLT
IN STOCK FROM
to 53 litres
Variable heat output with
NEW
8/260 2 7.5 24 £119.98 £143.98 £226.80 inc.VAT
thermostat control
2.8kW
11/260 2.5 9.5 24 £129.98 £155.98
8/550 2 7.5 50 £159.98 £191.98
11/550 2.5 9.5 50 £179.98 £215.98
16/550 3 14.5 50 £249.00 £298.80
16/1050 3 14.5 100 £309.00 £370.80
DEVIL DEVIL
INDUSTRIAL AIR FROM ONLY 6003 7003
COMPRESSORS XEV16/100
94
£ DOUBLE.99
DOUBLE
exc.VAT Propane Heat
Top quality belt driven FOOTER FROM ONLY FROM ONLY
£113.99 inc.VAT gas fired Model Voltage Output exc.VAT inc.VAT
air compressors
Max. Output
XR80 229exc.VAT
£ DOUBLE.00
DOUBLE FOOTER
29
£ DOUBLE
.98
DOUBLE
EXC.VAT
FOOTER 2800PTC-B
Devil 6003 230V 1.5-3kW £69.98 £83.98
for industrial & £274.80 inc.VAT £35.98 inc.VAT Devil 7003* 230V 3kW £76.99 £92.39
commercial users inc; Model kW exc.VAT inc.VAT model MAX output exc.VAT inc.VAT Devil 7005# 400V 5kW £98.99 £118.79
garages, factories, Little Devil II 10.3 £94.99 £113.99 XR60 14.7kW £229.00 £274.80 Max. Devil 6009 400V 4.5-9kW £124.99 £149.99
workshops and farms. Devil 700 15 £119.98 £143.98 XR80 20.5kW £279.00 £334.80 Model Output exc.VAT inc.VAT Devil 7009 400V 9kW £152.99 £183.59
10 bar/150psi max Devil 900 24.9 £159.98 £191.98 XR110 29.3kW £329.00 £394.80 DEVIL 2000PTC-B 2kW £29.98 £35.98 Devil 6015 400V 5-10-15kW £189.98 £227.98
working pressure Devil 1600 36.6 £189.98 £227.98 XR160 46.9kW £399.00 £478.80 Devil 2850 2.8kW £42.99 £51.59 Devil 7015 400V 15kW £229.98 £275.98
Devil 2100 49.8 £269.00 £322.80 XR210 61.5kW £459.00 £550.80 Devil 2800PTC-B 2.8kW £49.98 £59.98
FROM ONLY
HEADER Devil 4000 131 £479.00 £574.80 * WAS £83.98 inc.VAT # WAS £117.59 inc.VAT
£
589 .00
exc.VAT
£706.80 inc.VAT AIR.
†V-Twin *230V
BATTERY CHARGERS FROM ONLY JUMP STARTS
DISP MOTOR AIR /ENGINE STARTERS FROM ONLY Provides essential home, garage
MODEL CFM (HP) RCVR EXC.VAT INC.VAT 39
£ DOUBLE
DOUBLE
.98
exc.VAT and roadside assistance Integral
XEV16/100 (OL)†* 14 3 100ltr £589.00 £706.80 Ammeter
PRICE CUT
NOW FROM FOOTER
£47.98 inc.VAT 96inc.VAT
£ DOUBLE
.99
DOUBLE
exc.VAT
£116.39 FOOTER work light 910 includes air
Multi-
XEV16/150 (OL)†*
XEV16/200(OL)†*
14
14
3
3
150ltr
200ltr
£659.00 £790.80
£719.00 £862.80 position
£
89exc.VAT
.98 compressor Long life battery
£107.98 inc.VAT
DOUBLE IBC20 Starting Peak
XEV16/150(400V)† 14 3 150ltr £699.00 £838.80 charge WAS £112.79 inc.VAT
regulator Model Boost Amps exc.VAT inc.VAT
XE18/200 (OL)†* 18 4 200ltr £759.00 £910.80 910 400 900 £96.99 £116.39
XE36C200† 30 7.5HP 200Ltr £1199.00 £1438.80 Overload
XE29/270†* 28 2X3HP 270Ltr £1399.00 £1678.80 protection JS1100C 500 1100 £96.99 £116.39
EXTRA STARTS 700 1500 £164.99 £197.99
XE37/270 (OL)†* 36 2x 4 270ltr £1479.00 £1774.80 on charging LONG 1m VEHICLES BEST 4000 1000 2000 £179.98 £215.98
SE46C270† 40 10HP 270Ltr £2129.00 £2554.80 cycle LEADS UP TO 6L SELLER JS12/24

BC210C FROM ONLY

HEADER
CTC150LI
INTELLIGENT
AXLE STANDS Max Amps WAS BATTERY CHARGER/
£
112 .99
exc.VAT
£135.59 inc.VAT
10 TONNE
Ratchet action Charge/ inc. MAINTAINERS BODY 12V TYRE
for quick height Model Boost exc.VAT VAT inc.VAT REPAIR INFLATORS
Max. exc. WAS
adjustment BC125 20/120 £89.98 £112.79 £107.98 KIT 49
£FROM ONLY
DOUBLE
.98
exc.VAT 12V
Sold in pairs BC190 38/180 £104.99 £135.59 £125.99 Model Volts Charge VAT inc.VAT inc.VAT DOUBLE
FOOTER
£59.98 inc.VAT
BC210C 25/200 £149.98 £179.98 IBC7 12/24V 7A £39.98 £47.98 FAST SNAP
FROM ONLY WBC180 35/180 £159.98 £191.98 IBC15 12V 15A £49.98 £59.98 CONNECTOR
17
£ DOUBLE
DOUBLE
.99
exc.VAT
FOOTER
£21.59 inc.VAT
WBC240
WBC400
45/240
60/350
£184.99 £227.98 £221.99 IBC20 12/24V 20A £66.99 £83.98 £80.39
£219.00 £262.80 IBC25 12/24V 25A £84.99 £107.98 £101.99
BC520P 50/510 £259.00 £310.80 IBC40 12/24V 40A £104.99 £131.98 £125.99 CORDLESS
FROM ONLY
26
£FROM ONLY
.99
DOUBLE
exc.VAT
DOUBLE
FOOTER
WHEEL DOLLY (PAIR) 36
£ DOUBLE
DOUBLE
.99
exc.VAT
PADDED SEAT
£32.39 inc.VAT
WORKSHOP AWD1 MICRO FOOTER
£44.39 inc.VAT MECHANICS
AIR TOOLS BEST JUMP UTILITY
*Aluminium SELLER STARTS SEAT
Max Min/Max ◆ WAS £63.59 inc.VAT BALL
Model Tons Height exc.VAT inc.VAT Start Peak BEARING
CAX2TFB 2 235-360mm £17.99 £21.59 LOAD RATING: Model Boost Boost exc.VAT inc.VAT DRAWERS
CAX3TPB 3 325-490mm £31.99 £38.39 CAT131 SWIVEL, NON JSM180 180A 360A £36.99 £44.39
500KG PER PRICE CUT
CAX-3TBC
CAX-6TBC
3
6
300-430mm
400-615mm
£29.98
£48.99
£35.98
£58.79 69
£FROM ONLY
.98
DOUBLE
63
£FROM ONLY
.99
exc.VAT
DOUBLE DOLLY MARKING
CASTORS
JSM200 ◆ 200A 400A £49.98 £59.98 79exc.VAT
£DOUBLE.98
SWIVEL CMUS3
exc.VAT
DOUBLE PGF14 £76.79 inc.VAT JSM300 300A 500A £69.98 £83.98 £95.98 inc.VAT
DOUBLE CASTORS
CAX3TAB* 3 295-395mm £59.98 £71.98 FOOTER
£83.98 inc.VAT PER PAIR 603x370x150mm JSM400 400A 800A £99.98 £119.98 WAS £101.99 inc.VAT

GARAGES/WORKSHOPS ANGLE GRINDERS 145 Bar

HOT
PRICE CUT FROM ONLY SANDBLASTERS 2100 psi WASHERS PARTS
249exc.VAT
£ DOUBLE.00
29
£ DOUBLE
.98
DOUBLE
exc.VAT WASHERS
£298.80 inc.VAT
DOUBLE
WAS £310.80 inc.VAT
FOOTER
£35.98 inc.VAT Heavy duty steel
construction
599
£ FROM ONLY.00
DOUBLEexc.VAT
DOUBLE
£718.80 FOOTER
inc.VAT FROM ONLY
* WAS £45.59 inc.VAT sandblasters for the quick
# WAS £87.59 inc.VAT removal of surface rust, 59
£ DOUBLE
.98
DOUBLE
exc.VAT
FOOTER
£71.98 inc.VAT
paint, dirt/grease etc.
Model Disc (mm) Motor exc.VAT inc.VAT PRICE CUT
CAG800B 115 800W £29.98 £35.98 NOW FROM
CON1150* 115 1150W £36.99 £44.39
CAG2350C# 230 2350W £69.98 £83.98
£
169.00
exc.VAT
£202.80 inc.VAT
Ideal for use as a garage/workshop Extra tough WAS £214.80 inc.VAT
triple layer cover Heavy duty powder coated steel CTJ2GLS HEAVY
tubing Ratchet tight tensioning FROM ONLY
HEADER DUTY INCLUDES
SANDBLASTING GUN, CW1D
WAS
Model size (LxWxH) exc.VAT inc.VAT inc.VAT
£
269 .00
exc.VAT LONG DELIVERY HOSE, 4 AMAZING
CIG81212 3.6x3.6x2.5m £249.00 £310.80 £298.80
£322.80 inc.VAT REACH CERAMIC NOZZLES LOW PRICE!
CIG81015 4.5x3x2.4m £279.00 £334.80 JACKS AND SAFETY HOOD CW2D
CIG81216 4.9x3.7x2.5m £329.00 £394.80 Tank
CIG81020 6.1x3x2.4m £349.00 £418.80 Tank Flow Rate Model Cap. Type exc.VAT inc.VAT
Model Tonnes exc.VAT inc.VAT Model Volume Req. exc.VAT inc.VAT INC. CONTAINER FOR DETERGENT
CIG81220 6.1x3.7x2.5m £399.00 £478.80 *WAS £562.80 CTJ2GLS 2 £269.00 £322.80 CW2D 10Ltrs Bench £59.98 £71.98
CIG81224 7.3x3.7x2.5m £499.00 £598.80 inc.VAT CTJ3GLS 3 £349.00 £418.80 CPSB100B* 32 litre 6-25 cfm £169.00 £202.80 Model BAR Press. VOLT exc.VAT inc.VAT CW1D 45Ltrs Floor £149.98 £179.98
CIG1432 9.7x4.3x3.65m £1099.00 £1318.80 #WAS £766.80 CTJ5GLS 5 £459.00 £550.80 CPSB200B# 63 litre 6-25 cfm £209.00 £250.80 Harry 2 145 2100psi 230 £599.00 £718.80 CWM20 22.5Ltrs Floor £189.00 £226.80
CIG1640 12x4.9x4.3m £2599.00 £3478.80 £3118.80 inc.VAT CTJ10GLS# 10 £609.00 £730.80 * WAS £214.80 inc.VAT # WAS £274.80 inc.VAT KING 200 150 2175psi 230 £1198.00 £1437.60 CW40 75Ltrs Floor £229.98 £275.98

ALUMINIUM PRO SANDER/ 2 & 3 TONNE

RACING JACKS POLISHERS TROLLEY JACKS £FROM ONLY
18V ½"
Quick lift Non-marking 150mm 69
£FROM ONLY
.98
DOUBLE
exc.VAT
DOUBLE
CFC100 DOUBLE
.99
44DOUBLE
exc.VAT
FOOTER
£53.99 inc.VAT IMPACT
CP150
nylon wheels Rubber PAD DIA. FOOTER
£83.98 inc.VAT
219
£ FROM ONLY
.98
DOUBLEexc.VAT
WRENCHES
contact pad - helps protect DOUBLE
£263.98 FOOTER
inc.VAT CTJ2250LP 3 forward and
vehicle undersides reverse gears
1 TONNE PRICE CUT
CTJ1250AB Dual action combines
rotary & orbital motions
FOLDING 109exc.VAT
£ DOUBLE.98

to produce an excellent WORKSHOP £131.98 inc.VAT

DOUBLE
WAS £119.98 inc.VAT
polished finish CRANE BRUSHLESS
PRICE CUT Folding and fixed 450NM
JACKS ALSO IN
74exc.VAT
£DOUBLE.99 frames available
STOCK UP TO 5 TONNE
£
109
FROM ONLY
DOUBLE
DOUBLE
.98
exc.VAT
£131.98 FOOTER
inc.VAT
£89.99 inc.VAT
DOUBLE
WAS £95.98 inc.VAT
Inc. hook & loop
Robust, rugged
construction
Overload safety
Model
CTJ2L
Type
Long
Tonne exc.VAT inc.VAT
2 £44.99 £53.99
2 2AHX

† WAS £215.98 inc.VAT backing pad and valve CTJ2000LPB DIY Low Profile 2 £46.99 £56.39 * WAS £131.98 inc.VAT CIR18LIC
wool polishing CTJ2250LP* Low Profile 2.25 £52.99 £63.59 • WAS £147.59 inc.VAT
Model Lifting Cap. exc.VAT inc.VAT
CTJ1500QL 1.5T £109.98 £131.98 bonnet CTJ3000GB Pro Garage 3 £109.98 £131.98 Model Desc Batteries exc.VAT inc.VAT
CTJ1250AC 1.25T £134.99 £161.99 CP185 CTJ3000QLB Quick Lift 3 £119.98 £143.98 CCIW160* Cordless 2X 2AH £99.98 £119.98
BEST CTJ2QLP Low Quick Lift 2 £159.98 £191.98 LI-ION
CTJ2500QLGB† 2.5T £169.98 £203.98 180mm Fully tested
CTJ1800AB 1.8T £199.98 £239.98 to proof load SELLER * CTJ2250LP has a 2.25 tonne capacity, has a CIR18LIC• Cordless, 2X 2AH £119.95 £143.94
PAD DIA. low entry of only 80mm and includes 2 sockets Brushless LI-ION
34355RH

PAY Monthly
EASY TO USE WEBSITE 492
FREE PAGE

Spread the cost over 12,

NOW
OVER 21,000 CATALOGUE
24, 36, 48 or 60 months PRODUCTS ONLINE! OUT NOW!
Any mix of products For 15,000 • IN-STORE
over £300 hard to find • ONLINE
5 MIN items vist the
17.9% APR APPLICATION! section on: • PHONE
machinemart.co.uk 0844 880 1265
HYDRAULIC
PRESSES FROM ONLY
STRUT
1 TONNE BRITAIN’S NO. 1 FOR WELDING
£
169
DOUBLE.98
exc.VAT
SPRING
CSA4B DOUBLE
£203.98 FOOTER
inc.VAT
PROFESSIONAL COMPRESSOR MIG GAS/NO GAS WELDERS
QUALITY
Hydraulically 135TE Professional
Built for tough “Excellent machine and exactly
daily use in
automotive/
powered, foot
control operated
as described. Easy to set up
£
289
DOUBLE.98
exc.VAT
239.00 FOOTER
type torches
Easy to set
industrial device Adjustable and comes with everything you £347.98 inc.VAT up & use
workshops spring retainers need to start welding straight
Springs up to out of the box”
400mm diameter & See www.machinemart.co.uk
520mm in length BEST
SELLER
* Available with/without
7 pce pin, bracket & pressing plate kit BEST 189
£ FROM ONLY
.98
SELLER DOUBLEexc.VAT
safety screen # Economy model DOUBLE
£227.98 FOOTER
inc.VAT
Model Tonne exc.VAT inc.VAT 35/135
CSA4B# 4 £169.98 £203.98 AMPS
CSA10BB* 10 £289.00 £346.80 MIG145
CSA12F# 12 £379.00 £454.80 SSC1000G
CSA20FBT 20 £499.00 £598.80 239
£ FROM ONLY
.00
DOUBLEexc.VAT
DOUBLE
£286.80 FOOTER
inc.VAT

ENGINE STANDS HEAVY DUTY

PETROL POWER
FROM ONLY PLS265B
WASHERS Min/Max exc.
Model Amps VAT inc.VAT
72
£ DOUBLE
.99
DOUBLE
exc.VAT
FOOTER
£87.59 inc.VAT Honda & Diesel MIG106 40/100 £179.98 £215.98
engine models MIG145 35/135 £239.00 £286.80
Rotates PRO90 24-90 £249.00 £298.80
in stock MIG196 40/180 £279.00 £334.80
through 360˚ 135TE 135TE Turbo* 30-130 £289.98 £347.98
CAN DRAW 151EN 30-150 £259.00 £310.80
OWN WATER 130AMPS
* WAS £356.39 inc.VAT MIG240 50/240 £489.00 £586.80
FROM ONLY
CES680F 279exc.VAT
£ DOUBLE.00
DOUBLE
£334.80 FOOTER
inc.VAT
Fully tested to
*Folds for storage
proof load Model
Pressure Engine
Bar/PSI HP exc.VAT inc.VAT
AT165 MMA & ARC/TIG
INVERTER
139
£ FROM ONLY
DOUBLE
.98
DOUBLEexc.VAT
£167.98 FOOTER
inc.VAT
exc. WAS
Tiger1800B
Tiger2600B
110/1595 3
180/2610 4
£279.00 £334.80
£379.00 £454.80
219
£ FROM ONLY
DOUBLE
.98
DOUBLEexc.VAT
£263.98 FOOTER
inc.VAT
WELDERS
Model Capacity VAT inc.VAT inc.VAT Tiger3000B 200/2900 6.5 £399.00 £478.80 • Compact & lightweight
CES340 340kg £72.99 £87.59 PLS195B 182/2640 5.5 £499.00 £598.80 • Efficient inverter
CES450 450kg £82.99 £101.99 £99.59 PLS220 230/3335 9 £679.00 £814.80 technology
CES560 560kg £104.99 £125.99 PLS265B 225/3263 13 £769.00 £922.80 • Variable output
CES680F 680kg £139.98 £167.98 PLS360 248/3600 13 £998.00 £1197.60
MMA200A
CAR RAMPS
PETROL GENERATORS • Lift cars safely INC. ELECTRODE
and quickly HOLDER, EARTH
• Tough CLAMP, &
angled BRUSH/HAMMER
steel Min/Max Electrode
construction Output Dia.
FROM ONLY Model Current (mm) exc.VAT inc.VAT
Model Capacity exc.VAT inc.VAT 39
£ DOUBLE
DOUBLE
.98
exc.VAT
PER
MMA140A 20A-140A 1.6-3.2 £104.99 £125.99
£47.98 inc.VAT MMA200A 20A-200A 1.6-3.2 £139.98 £167.98
CR2 2000kg £39.98 £47.98 PER PAIR AT165 10A-160A 2.5/3.2/4.0 £219.98 £263.98
CRW25 2500kg £47.99 £57.59

PG3800A ELECTRIC
ACCESSORIES HUGE RANGE ARC WELDER FROM ONLY
Honda engine For home user, BEST 96 exc.VAT
£ DOUBLE
.99

CHECK FRAME TYPE models PRESSURE GWH7 automotive DOUBLE

£116.39 FOOTER
inc.VAT
available WASHERS AUTO and industrial
SELLER
WHEN ORDERING DARKENING LEATHER GAS applications.
Makes easy work
WAS for washing WELDING GAUNTLETS
Model KVA HP exc.VAT inc.VAT inc.VAT vehicles, patios, HEADSHIELDS
PG2500A 2.2 5.6 £219.00 £270.00 £262.80 stonework, etc. FROM ONLY
PG3800A 3 5.6 £269.00 £346.80 £322.80 JET7500, JET8500
PG3800ADV 3 5.6 £299.00 £370.80 £358.80 & JET9500B include 7 FROM ONLY 13
£ DOUBLE
DOUBLE
FOOTER
.49
exc.VAT
£16.19 inc.VAT
PG6500ADVES 5.5 9.7 £539.00 £646.80 hose reel 180 Bar MODELS 36
£ DOUBLE
DOUBLE
FOOTER
.99
exc.VAT
2610 PSI IN THE £44.39 inc.VAT
PRICE CUT
FROM ONLY RANGE
DIAGNOSTICS £
59exc.VAT
.98
PRICE CUT £71.98 inc.VAT
DOUBLE
NOW ONLY WAS £77.99 inc.VAT JET8500 FROM ONLY
£
79exc.VAT
.98
Motor Max. exc. WAS WIRE 7
DOUBLE
£ .99
DOUBLE
exc.VAT
£95.98.19
DOUBLEinc.VAT FOOTER
£9.59 inc.VAT
WAS £103.19 inc.VAT Model W Press. VAT inc.VAT inc.VAT
JS1850 1400 1523psi £59.98 £77.99 £71.98 0.6, 0.8 FROM ONLY SEE THE FULL RANGE
JS1950 1600 2030psi £96.99 £119.98 £116.39
Jet7500 1600 2030psi £154.99 £191.98 £185.99
& 0.9mm
SIZES IN
5
DOUBLE
£ .99
DOUBLE
exc.VAT
FOOTER
OF WELDING ACCESSORIES 115N
30-110
£7.19 inc.VAT
Jet8500 2100 2610psi £192.99 £239.98 £231.59
STOCK ONLINE & IN-STORE Turbo fan cooled Amps
JET9500B 2400 2900psi £229.98 £287.98 £275.98

VISIT YOUR LOCAL SUPERSTORE Open Mon-Fri 8.30-6.00, Sat 8.30-5.30, Sun 10.00-4.00 5 EASY WAYS
BARNSLEY Pontefract Rd, Barnsley, S71 1EZ 01226 732297 EXETER 16 Trusham Rd. EX2 8QG 01392 256 744 NORWICH 282a Heigham St. NR2 4LZ 01603 766402
B’HAM GREAT BARR 4 Birmingham Rd.
B’HAM HAY MILLS 1152 Coventry Rd, Hay Mills
0121 358 7977
0121 7713433
GATESHEAD 50 Lobley Hill Rd. NE8 4YJ
GLASGOW 280 Gt Western Rd. G4 9EJ
0191 493 2520
0141 332 9231
NORTHAMPTON Beckett Retail Park, St James’ Mill Rd 01604 267840 TO BUY...
NOTTINGHAM 211 Lower Parliament St. 0115 956 1811
BOLTON 1 Thynne St. BL3 6BD 01204 365799 GLOUCESTER 221A Barton St. GL1 4HY 01452 417 948 PETERBOROUGH 417 Lincoln Rd. Millfield 01733 311770
BRADFORD 105-107 Manningham Lane. BD1 3BN 01274 390962 GRIMSBY ELLIS WAY, DN32 9BD 01472 354435 PLYMOUTH 58-64 Embankment Rd. PL4 9HY 01752 254050 SUPERSTORES
BRIGHTON 123 Lewes Rd, BN2 3QB 01273 915999 HULL 8-10 Holderness Rd. HU9 1EG 01482 223161
BRISTOL 1-3 Church Rd, Lawrence Hill. BS5 9JJ 0117 935 1060 ILFORD 746-748 Eastern Ave. IG2 7HU 0208 518 4286
POOLE 137-139 Bournemouth Rd. Parkstone
PORTSMOUTH 277-283 Copnor Rd. Copnor
01202 717913
023 9265 4777
SUPERSTORES NATIONWIDE
BURTON UPON TRENT 12a Lichfield St. DE14 3QZ 01283 564 708 IPSWICH Unit 1 Ipswich Trade Centre, Commercial Road 01473 221253 PRESTON 53 Blackpool Rd. PR2 6BU 01772 703263
CAMBRIDGE 181-183 Histon Road, Cambridge. CB4 3HL 01223 322675 LEEDS 227-229 Kirkstall Rd. LS4 2AS 0113 231 0400 SHEFFIELD 453 London Rd. Heeley. S2 4HJ 0114 258 0831 ONLINE
CARDIFF 44-46 City Rd. CF24 3DN
CARLISLE 85 London Rd. CA1 2LG
029 2046 5424
01228 591666
LEICESTER 69 Melton Rd. LE4 6PN
LINCOLN Unit 5. The Pelham Centre. LN5 8HG
0116 261 0688
01522 543 036
SIDCUP 13 Blackfen Parade, Blackfen Rd
SOUTHAMPTON 516-518 Portswood Rd.
0208 3042069
023 8055 7788
www.machinemart.co.uk
CHELTENHAM 84 Fairview Road. GL52 2EH 01242 514 402 LIVERPOOL 80-88 London Rd. L3 5NF 0151 709 4484
CHESTER 43-45 St. James Street. CH1 3EY 01244 311258 LONDON CATFORD 289/291 Southend Lane SE6 3RS 0208 695 5684
SOUTHEND 1139-1141 London Rd. Leigh on Sea 01702 483 742
STOKE-ON-TRENT 382-396 Waterloo Rd. Hanley 01782 287321
TELESALES
COLCHESTER 4 North Station Rd. CO1 1RE
COVENTRY Bishop St. CV1 1HT
01206 762831
024 7622 4227
LONDON 6 Kendal Parade, Edmonton N18
LONDON 503-507 Lea Bridge Rd. Leyton, E10
020 8803 0861
020 8558 8284
SUNDERLAND 13-15 Ryhope Rd. Grangetown 0191 510 8773 0115 956 5555
SWANSEA 7 Samlet Rd. Llansamlet. SA7 9AG 01792 792969
CROYDON 423-427 Brighton Rd, Sth Croydon
DARLINGTON 214 Northgate. DL1 1RB
020 8763 0640
01325 380 841
LUTON Unit 1, 326 Dunstable Rd, Luton LU4 8JS 01582 728 063
MAIDSTONE 57 Upper Stone St. ME15 6HE 01622 769 572
SWINDON 21 Victoria Rd. SN1 3AW 01793 491717 CLICK & COLLECT
TWICKENHAM 83-85 Heath Rd.TW1 4AW 020 8892 9117
DEAL (KENT) 182-186 High St. CT14 6BQ 01304 373 434 MANCHESTER ALTRINCHAM 71 Manchester Rd. Altrincham 0161 9412 666
WARRINGTON Unit 3, Hawley’s Trade Pk. 01925 630 937
OVER 10,500 LOCATIONS
DERBY Derwent St. DE1 2ED 01332 290 931 MANCHESTER CENTRAL 209 Bury New Road M8 8DU 0161 241 1851
DONCASTER Wheatley Hall Road 01302 245 999 MANCHESTER OPENSHAW Unit 5, Tower Mill, Ashton Old Rd 0161 223 8376 WIGAN 2 Harrison Street, WN5 9AU
WOLVERHAMPTON Parkfield Rd. Bilston
01942 323 785
01902 494186
CALL & COLLECT
DUNDEE 24-26 Trades Lane. DD1 3ET 01382 225 140 MANSFIELD 169 Chesterfield Rd. South 01623 622160
EDINBURGH 163-171 Piersfield Terrace 0131 659 5919 MIDDLESBROUGH Mandale Triangle, Thornaby 01642 677881 WORCESTER 48a Upper Tything. WR1 1JZ 01905 723451 AT STORES TODAY
Calls to the catalogue request number above (0844 880 1265) cost 7p per minute plus your telephone company’s network access charge. For security reasons, calls may be monitored. All prices correct
*
at time of going to press. We reserve the right to change products and prices at any time. Check online for latest prices. All offers subject to availability, E&OE. Terms & conditions apply see machinemart.co.uk/finance for more details
 t Lexus IS 250
Projec
Alloy wheel
refresh
PART FIVE: Martyn Knowles lifts the IS 250
on the driveway to remove the alloys for
refurbishment. Plus watches on as dents vanish.
D
amaged alloy wheels make
for a tatty appearance, so
this month I decided to give a
refurbisher of alloy wheels a
chance to make them look like new.
I hadn't used BE Automotive in
Tunbridge Wells before, but did visit them
a few years back when I was in the area.
They have over 20 years experience in
detailing wheels and my request for them
to take images of the refurbishment
progress was met with enthusiasm. I'd
like to thank them for the images of the
wheel restoration during the various
stages, which takes them two to three
days to complete a full set of alloys.
I decided to take off the wheels from the
IS and deliver them to BE Automotive's
Kent location (Tel: 01233 556114). To
do that I had to raise the vehicle on four
axle stands. Word of warning – don't
attempt this if you are unsure. With over
40 years of messing around with cars,
it took me 1.5hrs to get the IS safely on
stands with the wheels removed.
28 Car Mechanics December 2023
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
JOBS LIST
✓ FULL ENGINE Part 2
MAINTENANCE SERVICE SEPT23
✓ FIT NEW BRAKES Part 3
FRONT & REAR OCT23
✓ CHECK REAR Part 3
BRAKE SHOES OCT23
✓ SERVICE AUTOBOX Part 4
AND REAR DIFF NOV23
✓ RENEW FRONT Part 4
WINDSCREEN NOV23
✓ REFURBISH ALLOY Part 5
WHEELS, FIT NEW TYRES DEC23
✖ RENEW REAR DAMPERS
✖ CUT & POLISH ENTIRE BODYWORK
First I decided to raise each front
wheel enough to slide my plastic ramps
underneath. This raised height allowed
the positioning of each front axle stand
to be done with a little more lifting
via the trolley jack. The plastic ramps
could slide out first, then the jack slowly
dropped to meet the stand(s). The rear
was then lifted high enough for a fully
raised axle stand to be slipped under each
rear crossmember bush. Taking your time
is important and your safety paramount.
low decibel output. Yokohama produce
a 67dB tyre but the matching axle pairs
Fresh rubber set they make are 71dB. As you can see,
The part-worn Rapid P609 tyres that I opted for the Uniroyal RainSport 5
came with the IS on purchase were brand mainly because the wheel
renewed at the same time. I decided refurbishers recommended them. They
these budget-branded tyres made the could order those in and fit to the freshly
ride (and noise levels) un-Lexus-like so painted alloys, which made sense.
went hunting for new decent rubber. With the IS still sat on axle stands, a
With 225/45/17 on the front axle Paintless Dent Repair (PDR) operator
and 245/45/17 on the rear, it's not so arrived. Watching Jon's skillful work
straightforward to find a matching set. making dents vanish is amazing – with 22
Ideally I wanted a tyre that produced a years' experience, he makes it look easy.
More than 22,000 OE-matching parts
partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME
 CM project 2010 Lexus IS 250

ALLOY WHEELS REMOVAL

First, all 20 wheel nuts were loosened slightly prior to raising the
1 Lexus. Then the nearside front wheel was lifted enough to place
a plastic ramp under the wheel. A piece of wood spread the load on
the jack. Then the jack was lowered and dragged around to the offside
front wheel and that raised to fit the other plastic ramp. With the front
raised off the ground, the jack was used again to lift the car higher
so that the orange stand could be put into position – before slowly
lowering the jack, so the car sat on the stand. Repeat the other side.
There's not much room at the back of the car to fit a block of
2 wood and trolley jack, so much checking was done before it was
raised. Once the road wheel was just off the ground, I then undid the
wheel nuts to remove the wheel. With a set of Draper stands for the
rear, they had to be positioned under the subframe bushes (more jack
lifting necessary) which meant they were at full height to keep the
Lexus near-enough level. Repeat on other side. All done with caution,
but in the end the Lexus was floating on axle stands.

Each alloy had damage, but no real
3 gouges. Lacquer isn't that strong on
Japanese cars – it tends not to last any longer
than a decade in the UK – it disintegrates,
leaving them looking tatty. Our's aren't
that bad in that department, but the wheel
refurbishers can repair this damage and
make them look new again.
I wanted to clean the wheelarches
4 while the wheels were off. And with
Storm Ciarán approaching I decided to cover
each brake caliper with a plastic bag and
bungee cord. With 70mph winds due I didn't
want them heading off down the street. The
bags would also protect the area while the
pressure washer was used to clean the arches.
I decided to douse the first wheelarch
5 I tackled with snow foam. I'm not sure
it did anything, so didn't use it on the other
three arches. I had noticed when working
on the brakes that the back arches and
suspension components had a thick layer
of dried mud attached to them. Hence why
I wanted the pressure washer to get to work.

 A dedicated
7 pressure washer
attachment (inset pic) made
it easier to get under the
arch. The carpet-like arch
liner helps keep noise levels
down when driving in rain,
but does attract debris to
cling to it and the pressure
washer didn't really shift all
of it. The arch liner doesn't
fit exactly to the edge of
the bodywork lip – dirt gets
trapped here, so I used a
A 10mm screw was undone at the garden hose and fingers to
6 bottom corner of the arch liner to gain really push the mud out of
access to this mud build-up. the top of the arch lip area.

Search more than 62,000 different articles.

partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/register

shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME December 2023 Car Mechanics 29

CM project 2010 Lexus IS 250

ALLOY WHEEL REFURBISHMENT

 My 20-year-old
1 Skoda Octavia TDI has
a huge boot and the rear
seats fold flat, so it was used
to transport the four Lexus
alloy wheels and tyres to
BE Automotive. Within 15
minutes of arriving, the Rapid
P609 tyres were removed
and back in the Skoda. I was
hunting for new tyres, but
wanted to keep the Rapid
tyres as they weren't ready
for recycling just yet. During my visit, I noticed these Fiesta
2 XR2 wheels in for repair and repaint.
Behind those is an Escort RS wheel – and on
my return to collect our Lexus alloys, the RS
wheel was ready. It looks spot-on.

First, any damage is rectified, with the

3 alloys straightened if they are out-of-
shape. Our Lexus alloys are going through a
four-stage process at the refurbishers. To start,
they are painted in a powder primer (left).
Then baked at 200°C. Once cooked, they are
sprayed with a powder silver and baked again
(below left). BE Automotive tell me that silver
alloys are the hardest to match, so they can
offer us a chrome wet paint finish that makes
the alloys look 'factory' fresh (below). Finally, a
lacquer is baked on. BE Automotive charge £70
+ VAT per wheel for refurbishing 17in to 19in
wheels in a powder-coated silver (including
refitting and balancing any tyres). If you
want the wet chrome paint it is an extra £10
per wheel and if your alloys require diamond
cutting, add another tenner per wheel.

Our sponsors, febi bilstein, can supply

4 us with new wheel nuts and a locking
wheel nut set to enhance the 'fresh new' look.
Ordering part number 26587 will get you 20
M12 x 1.5 wheel nuts with captive washer. These
are tightened with a 21mm socket, however
the locking set requires a 19mm socket.

More than 48,000 different spare

parts in OE matching quality

30 Car Mechanics December 2023 shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME

 CM project 2010 Lexus IS 250

 The new wheel setup

6 looks fab. The Uniroyals
at the front cost below £80
each (not a bad price), while
the slightly bigger 245/45/17
rears were nearly double
that for some reason. The
exterior noise produced by
these tyres is 72dB – not
quite the 67/68 I was after.
But these are known as 'The
Rain Tyre' so I'm hoping the
rear-wheel-drive Lexus will be
happy with them during the
wetter months. Finally, all that
needed to finish off was polish
To fit the new wheel nuts, I used these the original Lexus centre caps,
5 dedicated Clarke PRO184 wheel sockets push them into place, before
that have a Polymer outer sleeve to protect cleaning off any tyre lube
the alloy. Each nut is tightened to 103Nm. around the rim of the tyre.

FIXING DENTS

Jon Taylor is a mobile Paintless Dent Repairs (PDR) operator in ... then hammers
1 the East Sussex area. He visited my home while the Lexus was on 2 at a punch to
axle stands and got to work. Jon was due to arrive in the afternoon, so reduce any high points.
I planned to clean the wheelarches then wash the bodywork before his Experience tells him
arrival. However, he called before midday to say he was not far away, where to hammer and
so I quickly went over the bodywork to make it a bit cleaner. Here Jon when to stop – and when
finds a shallow, but long, dent in the driver's door. First he feeds a rod to keep pushing with the
down from the top to push out the dent... rod inside the door skin.

Jon's battery-operated lamp sticks to any surface. It's used to The boot is opened and a couple of plastic trim clips levered out
3 highlight dents in bodywork. We can just make out this dent on 4 of position to enable us to move the boot side trim aside, enough
the offside rear wing which is located above the lamp cluster. to get a dedicated rod up to the dent.

Searching becomes finding!

Register for free...partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com

shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME December 2023 Car Mechanics 31

CM project 2010 Lexus IS 250 NEXT MONTH PROJECT COSTS
New rear shock
absorbers and PARTS
final assessment. COSTS
FIXING DENTS CONTINUED

Engine oil (7 x 1 litre febi 5W-30) £67.06

Engine oil filter (Blue Print ADT32118) £5.95
Air Filter (Blue Print ADT32290) £10.59
Coolant (febi G12+ Concentrate 5 litre) £36.95
Wiper blade offside
(Blue Print 22in AD22HY550) £16.20
Wiper blade nearside
(Blue Print 20in AD20HY500) £15.34
Auxiliary drive belt
(Blue Print AD07R1550) £22.58
After the rod work, the punch finds the There's also a small dent on top of Cabin filter (Blue Print ADT32522) £9.95
5 high points. This dent didn't take that 6 the boot lid. This requires more work NGK Iridium spark plugs x 6 £104.40
long to disappear, probably 20mins work. because access is hindered. Front discs (Blue Print ADT343208) £60.72
Front pads (Blue Print ADT342163) £27.27
Rear discs (Blue Print ADT343203) £66.91
Rear pads (Blue Print ADT342156) £23.53
Rear pad fitting kit £30.00
Transmission filter set
(Blue Print ADBP210145) £20.42
ATF x 4 litres (febi 29934) £58.40
 Jon removes Axle drive oil x 2 litres (febi 48785) £43.90
7 six plastic clips Windscreen moulding clips £5.33
for the cover under Windscreen scuttle panel
the boot lid. Once and side mouldings (second-hand) £180.00
removed, this gives Windscreen supply and fit £240.00
him a way in to get at Engine bay cover clips £3.85
that small dent. Alloy wheel refurbishment x 4 £384.00
UniRoyal RainSport 5 225/45/17 x 2 £156.00
UniRoyal RainSport 5 245/45/17 x 2 £276.00
Dent removal x 4 £240.00
Locking wheel nuts
x 16 (febi 46663) £68.00
Locking wheel nut set (febi 27057) £18.17
TOTAL £2151.52
 Jon finds
8 one more dent
on the nearside back USEFUL CONTACTS
wing, near the rear Blue Print partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com
lamp. To gain access to
the back of the dent, BE Automotive www.beautos.co.uk
the lamp unit was
temporarily removed. Paintless Dent Repairs (East Sussex) 07745 203705

ENGINE COVERS REFIT

After the engine service in the September

issue, I said I would order new plastic
clips for the four engine bay covers and
shields. Some clips were damaged upon
removal and one was missing – although
This rod has a soft tip and is fed in
9 behind the removed lamp. As before
I found two sitting in the bottom of the
air filter housing. These 20 clips cost £3.85
Jon slowly forces the dent out – and with 20 delivered from eBay and fitted perfectly.
minutes adjustment, it has disappeared.

More than 22,000 OE-matching parts

partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com

32 Car Mechanics December 2023 shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME


IMPROVE your MOTORING
 Over the last five years, Cataclean has
become a big player within UK motor sport,
the fuel additive’s colours seen on race-
winning British Touring Cars for example.
Driver Dan Rowbottom (right) knows how
good Cataclean is. When he isn’t behind
the wheel of his race-winning Ford Focus,
Rowbo runs a vehicle engineering business
and uses Cataclean in customers’ cars. “It’s
a really good product,” he says, “because
it has so many benefits to motorists. For a
start, it cleans before, during and post-
combustion so it has so much more to
offer than anything else on the market.
“Cataclean removes carbon, resin and
gum build-up from fuel and exhaust
systems, but its two-stage cleaning
process means that it can address catalytic
converter issues, EGR valve problems and
catalyst codes.”
The carbon build-up has two instant
detrimental effects for motorists, the
first being that their car is robbed of
performance and the second is that fuel
consumption is affected, the vehicle being
less efficient. With a bottle of Cataclean in
the tank, the results are rapid. The liquid
removes deposits as it passes over fuel
injectors and upon combustion, Cataclean
creates an acidic vapour of carboxylic
acids which will clean the exhaust system
including the catalytic converter.
“And,” says Rowbottom, “there is a third
benefit which is that Cataclean helps cars
to get through their MOT. It’s inevitable
that an older car will have a greater build-
up of carbon deposits but used regularly,
Cataclean can help remove them and hence
a car will fly through its emissions test.”
In 2020, a staggering 1.3 million
vehicles failed their MOTs due to high
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME
ADVERTORIAL
emissions, but Cataclean can help them
succeed at a second test. For example,
in July to September 2020, 1.9 million
vehicles failed an MOT but over 551,000
passed after remedial work. Cataclean is
urging motorists to use the product more
regularly to avoid any fear of failure.
Best practice
Cataclean works best when the fuel
tank is quarter full and 500ml of the
liquid should be run for around 15 to 20
minutes before refuelling. “The benefits
are amazing,” reckons Rowbottom.
“I wouldn’t be using it in customers’
cars if it didn’t work. Whether it is a
performance car or an older vehicle
running cleaner, Cataclean works. The
beauty is that you don’t need gallons of
it for it to work its magic. Just one bottle
every three months or so, depending
upon your mileage, works wonders.”
The recent shift to E10 fuel has been
another area that motorists can benefit
from Cataclean as Rowbottom explains:
“In certain vehicles, the ethanol in E10 can
create damage in fuel tanks and damage
parts such as rubber seals and other
components. Cataclean, therefore, doesn’t
just reduce emissions and help MPG but
protects a vehicle’s engine against the
corrosion caused by ethanol in E10 fuel.
In that regard, it is keeping cars on the
road for longer and helping to reduce a
motorist’s long-term costs.
“There is a misunderstanding about
Cataclean,” he says. “Most people use
Cataclean as a ‘rescue-me’ product but,
once you have used it and passed that
MOT, we find motorists see the benefits,
of using it regularly not just in passing the
MOT but through better fuel economy,
better performance and better emissions.
Cataclean began in 1995 and has sold
over 20 million treatments and yet not
once has it received a single warranty
claim against its product. That’s the
ultimate endorsement,” says Rowbottom.
And it’s not just in petrol engines
that Cataclean works as there is a diesel
equivalent, especially important given
that in May 2018, stricter emissions
tests came into force which in turn have
added to a huge rise in MOT failures due
to emissions. Diesel cars are particularly
affected with a surge of diesel MOT
failures at a staggering rise of 240%!
Whether it’s improved performance,
a hassle-free MOT or to improve fuel
consumption, Cataclean is the answer.
Easy and improved motoring comes in a
500ml bottle!
December 2023 Car Mechanics 33
 ange Rover 4.4 V8
Project R

Hot under
the collar
JOBS LIST
✓ REPLACE Part 2
COOLANT HOSE JULY 23
✓ REPLACE REAR Part 2
WIPER MOTOR JULY 23
✓ ADJUST OR REPAIR Part 2
STEERING COLUMN JULY 23
PART SEVEN: Yet more cooling woes – Sam ✓ RESEARCH AND FIT Part 3/4
Skelton’s Range Rover is in dock once more. ✓
UPDATED HEAD UNIT
INVESTIGATE POTENTIAL
AUG/SEPT 23
Part 5
LPG LEAK OCT 23
✓ DIAGNOSE AND REPAIR Part 5
CV ISSUE OCT 23
✓ CURE REAR Part 5
FOG ERROR OCT 23
✓ RENEW BRAKE DISCS/PADS Part 6
& CALIPER NOV 23
✓ VALLEY PAN Part 7
GASKET CHANGE DEC 23
✖ REPLACE FRONT SEATS
✖ REPAIR RUST IN DOGLEGS
✖ REPLACE REAR LIGHT LENSES
✖ REPLACE LOCK SET
✖ REPAIR DENTED REAR WING

and this panel that had let go, and it is

apparently a known failure point for BMW
V8 engines – so if you have an unexplained
coolant leak in your BMW E38 or E39
this is a sensible place to look. The
downside is that it requires the stripping
down of the top half of the engine, and is

T
he Range Rover’s incontinence
has become a recurring theme
in this project, and this
instalment is no different.
When I left you last time, I had a large
coolant leak develop on my way home
from Avenger 4x4’s work on my brakes.
And it was properly big. The thirty-four-
mile journey back to Avenger 4x4 from
my house was one I perhaps foolishly
chose to attempt to do without the aid
of a low-loader. It took 35 litres of water
even with the expansion cap off, most of
which was coming out almost before it
went in. I’m hopeful it hasn’t led to any
lasting damage, but we will have to see...
When it let go this time I was at a loss
as to why, with members of Facebook
groups advising that my water pump had
had it (no obvious leak), that various
coolant hoses were to blame, and that –
in one case – it could be the valley pan
gasket. The frequency of the water pump
suggestion meant I ordered one anyway
– while I doubted it, I have been known
to be fallible before and it’s an easily
accessed part to check. Unfortunately,
we had to try again. Avenger 4x4’s Dave
Day had initially thought that it was one
of the metal coolant pipes that sit in the
V, as these have been known to corrode
and spray water before. However, one
person from the forums got it right in
the end – it was found that the valley
pan gasket was the culprit.
BMW’s V8s have coolant channels in the
V cast into the block, with a sealing panel
bolted to the top which contains castings
to guide the water around the top of the
block. It is the gasket between the block
therefore a long and costly process.
Overtime
Initially, the time booked was only
sufficient for a water pump change, and it
was clear that there would be much more
stripping down required. This was set to
be such a large job that Avenger asked if
they could do it over the course of a few
days, in part because when the stripdown
began none of us knew exactly what we
were going to find. So, in terms of the
majority of the images, this time I leave
you in Dave’s excellent hands, and I have
pieced together the jobs carried out based
upon what is depicted in the images and
a verbal description of the process. I hope
that I haven’t missed any crucial steps, but
if there are any errors please contact the
magazine and we will print a correction.

34 Car Mechanics December 2023 shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME

 CM project 2002 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8

VALLEY PAN GASKET DIAGNOSIS & CHANGE

Preparations for the 34-mile journey to Avenger 4x4 might
1 look drastic but it was needed given the rate of coolant loss.
On average I was using one of these bottles every five miles or so –
that’s a litre of water used every hour. The last couple of miles were
tense as it was getting warmer and warmer in traffic.
Through the broken LCD display you can just make out “CHECK
2 COOLANT LEVEL” – fortunately I didn’t encounter this message
during the journey, but once I’d reached Avenger and what little water
left was on the floor, it was quick to flash up. I took it across the day
before to ensure a cool engine for the job.

People on various Facebook groups seemed adamant that the
3 cause of my issues was the water pump – and with their warnings
in mind I ordered one from Rimmer Bros ready to fit. I ordered the OEM
spec variant, at £97.20 inclusive of VAT. Rimmer Bros also offer cheaper
aftermarket water pumps if that is your preference.
Once in the workshop we could start to assess what was wrong.
4 However, due to time constraints on the day, if the water pump
turned out not to be the culprit, I would have to leave the Range Rover
at Avenger 4x4 and they would have to schedule my repairs around
other pre-booked work over the next few weeks.

Dave unhooked the bonnet struts to get
5 the bonnet higher – when looking for
signs of a leak you need all the light and access
you can get. It’s an easy job, just pop the strut
off its balljoint at the wing end on each side,
and lift the bonnet upwards. Don’t do this
outside as wind could damage it.
Dave’s first job was to try to pressurise
6 the system using a pressure tester at the
header tank, in the hope that it would force a
system leak to show itself. It did, but with the
engine bay fully assembled it wasn’t possible
to trace the source of the problem with any
accuracy. All we got was a wet workshop floor.
Removal of the inlet hose only showed
7 that the water pump – our first suspect –
was as dry as a bone. Rather than send the part
back to Rimmer Bros, we decided to replace it
anyway once we’d found the problem, as water
pumps are another known failure point on these
cars. It’s now time to hand you over to Dave...

shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME December 2023 Car Mechanics 35

CM project 2002 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8

VALLEY PAN GASKET CONTINUED

Arriving at Avenger 4x4 with a large
8 coolant leak – the engine bay had been
steam cleaned in the process. So, while we had
a fairly clean engine, we were unsure what was
wrong. The natural first job is to strip to where
water was seen to try to trace the problem.
Dave’s first job was to unbolt the access
9 panel at the back of the bulkhead in
order to allow more space to work. This is
secured at either end by a 13mm nut – for
ease Dave is using a ratchet spanner, but a
socket is equally viable.
The engine cover is held in place by
10 four turn bolts with 5mm Allen heads.
These are easily removed – turn by 90° and
the entire engine cover should lift away from
the top of the engine to offer both greater
visibility and access.

The inlet pipe was then removed to improve access – as well

11 as a jubilee clip at each end, there is a vacuum hose toward The LPG system is now visible on top of the engine, but with no
the centre of the car that will need to be unclipped before it can be
12 further clues as to what’s causing the leak, there will need to be
released. Don’t forget to reconnect this upon reassembly. further dismantling before we have an idea.

Remove the electrical supply to the

Next job is to lift the coil covers.
13 Underneath these caps are 10mm bolts,
which hold the coil covers to the heads. There
are two per side – usually all four are covered
but on my car two of the caps are missing.
14 coils by lifting this retainer clip. The
electrical system runs down the inlet manifold,
which will need to be removed in order to
access the top of the block. At the same time,
remember to disconnect the earthing point
for the coil system using a 10mm socket.
You’ll also need to remove the wiring
15 for the injectors – in this case the LPG
injectors. Note that each has been marked to
ensure that it can be correctly reassembled
once the repairs have been carried out.

36 Car Mechanics December 2023 shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME

 IN ASSOCIATION WITH

There are ten studs

16 attaching the inlet manifold
to the block – these should be
capped with 11mm nuts. Remove
these and lift the manifold free,
having disconnected the vacuum
hose for the brake servo first.

 Rimmer Bros offer us aftermarket,

OEM and genuine radiators for the
Range Rover L322. Aftermarket radiator
for 4.4 V8 M62 petrol = £162.00 inc VAT.
OEM = £228.00 inc VAT.
Genuine = £426.43 inc VAT.
See the other range of vehicles Rimmer
Bros covers at: www.rimmerbros.com

 As this image
18 shows, this was
certainly the right
ballpark – but closer
inspection revealed that
the valley pan gasket
was in fact to blame.
The steam visible in this
image is emanating from
underneath the valley
pan – clearly not from
the coolant pipes. Picture
17 shows the valley
pan underneath the
two central pipes – the
gasket comes attached
to the lid as a complete
replacement item.

In the middle of this image are two alloy coolant rails. Initially,
17 Dave suspected that one of these had corroded through and
Avenger 4x4 actually ordered one in, ready to swap it out. However,
that wasn’t the case. The holes visible in the bulkhead are for fresh air The engine fully stripped down and awaiting the valley pan
inlet purposes, and are usually closed off from the engine bay by the 19 gasket. As you see there is a large waterway under the pan lid,
bulkhead panel. and the lid contains cast channels to guide coolant through the block.

shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME December 2023 Car Mechanics 37

CM project 2002 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 PROJECT COSTS
PARTS & LABOUR COSTS
VALLEY PAN GASKET CONTINUED
USEFUL CONTACTS
Rimmer Bros Ltd 01522 568000
rimmerbros.com
Avenger 4x4 01733 266690
www.avenger4x4.com Parcel shelf £89.96
PixelsFixed 07762 725041
Epsom Green paint £20.23
www.pixelsfixed.co.uk
Kurust £10.12
20  Sadly, we don’t have any images of
the reassembly work to show you, but we
Coolant hose PCH001140P £19.80
should note that the heat under the bonnet en Recovery cost (29 miles) £175.00
route had thinned the oil slightly, leading to slight Labour costs £408.00
noise at the top end. An oil and filter change was
therefore performed, which helped considerably. Wiper motor £60.00
Autoglym Leather Cleaner £7.00
DASH BINNACLE Autoglym Leather Balm £9.53
Front cupholder £40.00
Front cupholder bracket £9.20
Replacement cigarette lighter £14.90
Replacement cigarette
lighter inserts £19.98
Replacement rear ashtray £12.99
XTrons IQ7039B (ex-demo) £249.00
Foundry Grey aerosol £25.49
iBus app
(basic free, paid upgrade) £19.14
iBus adaptor £59.99
1 This image shows the state of my dash
binnacle upon purchase. As with so 2 Boyd offered a repair service locally
at Avenger 4x4, but found that my
DAB adaptor £29.99
many L322s, the pixels have dropped from car needed further work. Most jobs can DAB aerial splitter £12.49
the display making it almost unreadable. be completed locally, or you can post your
BMW microphone (used) £14.24
I contacted Boyd Beattie at PixelsFixed in binnacle to him. He therefore took my
order to have the unit refurbished for £100. binnacle away with him, posting it back Voice control module (used) £29.99
This is also a service Boyd can perform on about a week later once the repairs had been
Bottles of beer with which
late 1990s/early 2000s BMW models, as the completed. See Part 4 for instructions on
to thank/bribe Simon Heap £13.00
technology is the same. stripping your dash.
1hr @ CG Gas £75.00
Driveshaft (Rimmer Bros) £195.00
Time at Avenger 4x4 (2.5 hours) £255.00
Brake discs x 2 £87.60
Brake pads £27.00
Replacement used caliper £30.00
Time at Avenger 4x4 (2.5 hours) £255.00
Replacement water pump £97.20
Misc small parts £10.56

3 As you can see, this is a distinct improvement – all displays are readable and there are only
one or two lines of pixels that are fainter than they were when new. My only real complaint
Inlet manifold gasket x 4 £40.36
is that the temperature needle is now lopsided, which on a car with cooling issues may mean they Spark plugs x 8 £25.52
aren’t noticed until it’s too late. There was also a blown bulb – but this is a twenty-year-old car. Valley pan gasket £76.52
Oil filter £4.86
NEXT MONTH Engine oil, 8.5L £52.28
 It’s very nearly MOT time – and guess
what? The Range Rover is losing coolant Time at Avenger 4x4 (8 hours) £816.00
again. Is this the final straw for our man PixelsFixed dash repair £100.00
Skelton? Can it be fixed, and will it make
it to the test? Find out next time. TOTAL £3594.94

38 Car Mechanics December 2023 shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME

 THE COMPLETE
FUEL AND EXHAUST
SYSTEM CLEANER.
FUEL TANK
INJECTORS
CATALYTIC CONVERTER
OXYGEN SENSORS
EGR VALVES
DPF/PPF
COMBUSTION CHAMBER
INTAKE VALVES
REDUCE EMISSIONS • RESTORE PERFORMANCE • IMPROVE FUEL ECONOMY
Results may vary subject to vehicle/fuel type, driving style/cycle and climate conditions.

T: 01706 620082
E: info@cjautosheywood.co.uk
C J Autos Heywood Ltd,
Mission Street, Heywood, OL10 1HY

CT02 AUTOVIP CT04 NBN CHASSIS CT01 BASIC CAR ROLLER CL01 TILTING CAR LIFT CL01 2 TON

CM22 ADJUSTABLE MECHANICAL

CR01 HYDRAULIC CAR RAMPS CR06XHD HYDRAULIC CAR RAMPS CL22 MINI SIDE CAR LIFT CM02 HYDRAULIC WHEEL SKATES SKATES

CM02R RATCHET WHEEL CM23 ADJUSTABLE CM05A STANDARD MOBILE CM05B HEAVY DUTY MOBILE CM04 DOLLIES WITH STEEL DOLLIES WITH NYLON
SKATES HYDRAULIC SKATE AXLE STANDS AXLE STANDS WHEELS WHEELS

SEE WEBSITE FOR ALL PRICES WWW.CJAUTOSHEYWOOD.CO.UK

 Clutch Clinic
FORD
MONDEO
Mk4
2.0 TDCi
Rob Hawkins visits AES
near York to follow them
replacing the clutch and
dual mass flywheel on
our ex-CM Mk4 Mondeo.

R
eplacing the clutch and dual
mass flywheel on the 2.0-litre TORQUE
diesel-engined Mk4 Mondeo is
quite an involved job, requiring
SETTINGS
the front subframe assembly to be Road wheels
removed – there’s not enough space to M12 140Nm The dual mass flywheel on the
extract the gearbox with it in situ. It’s (110Nm for security nut with conical Mondeo’s diesel engine can have roughly
a job that hopefully only needs to be washer, or 140Nm without washer) 10-15mm of rotational movement, but
M14 170Nm
completed once in the lifetime of a vehicle as we found on the vehicle shown here,
that’s been regularly maintained but is Front hub bolt 45Nm + 80° there was a lot more.
nevertheless an undertaking that should Clutch cover/ Set aside a long day to replace the
ideally be conducted using a two-post pressure plate 29Nm clutch on a Mondeo, and anticipate
ramp to sufficiently raise the vehicle, DMF 20Nm, then 66Nm problems along the way, such as corroded
and a couple of transmission jacks to nuts and bolts that may refuse to undo.
help support the engine and gearbox.
Typical of a front-wheel-drive vehicle,
the job begins with removing several Ford Mondeo 1997cc turbodiesel
components in the engine bay to access
the top of the gearbox. Then the underside
needs to be dismantled to extract the
driveshafts and eventually remove the  Remove the
subframe, by which time there’s little 1 engine undertray,
left to do to remove the gearbox. which is secured with
eight 10mm bolts.
These will probably
TOOLBOX be corroded, so spray
over them first with
 Angle grinder and cutting disc penetrating fluid and
 Balljoint splitter clean their heads with
 Cable ties a wire brush.
 Clutch alignment tool
 Copper drift
 Gear oil squeezy bottle or pump
 Hammer  Hex bits: 8mm
 Hose clamp  Penetrating fluid
 Pick  Pry bar  Screwdrivers
 Self-locking pliers
 Remove the smaller
 Sockets/spanners: 8-22mm 2 plastic bumper undertray,
 Torque wrench which is secured with a mixture of
 Torx bits: T40, T50 8mm and 10mm bolts and several
 Transmission jacks (two) plastic trim plugs. A trim tool is
 Trim tool remover useful for extracting the trim plugs,
 Two-post ramp  Wire brush although it may be easier to start
with a small flat blade screwdriver.

40 Car Mechanics December 2023 shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME

 CLUTCH CLINIC Ford Mondeo Mk4 2.0 TDCi

3 Detach the induction hose between
the air filter housing on the nearside of
the engine bay and the throttle body. Also,
detach the electrical plug connected nearby
to the MAF sensor.
Carefully lift the entire air filter
4 housing out of the engine bay. It sits
on locating pegs, so needs to be wiggled a
little, but make sure the feed pipe doesn’t get
caught and breaks, like the one shown here,
which has been repaired with adhesive tape.
Remove any plastic covers on top of the
5 vehicle battery, then undo any clamps
that secure it in position. Detach the positive
and negative terminals by undoing their
10mm nuts (detach the negative terminal
first), then lift the battery out.

 Undo three 8mm bolts

6 that secure the battery
tray/box inside the engine
bay. These can be corroded
and can easily seize, so apply
penetrating fluid first.
 With the battery and
7 its tray removed, the
gear linkage on the top of the
gearbox can now be accessed
and detached by pushing in the
attachment to release it. Find
the reverse sensor fitted to
the gearbox and disconnect it.
Move any wiring out of the way
(note if any plugs are detached).

 Locate the hydraulic

8 pipe connection for the
gearbox’s slave cylinder. Use
a pick to release a small metal
clip, which will detach the pipe
from where it’s connected to
the gearbox. Don’t detach it
yet, but instead…
 …fit a hose clamp
9 around the hose that’s
connected to this pipe to save
on fluid loss, then extract it
from where it’s attached at
the gearbox and suspend it
out of the way by undoing any
mounting clips.

The starter motor doesn’t require removal,

10 The gear linkage that was disconnected in step 7 is still attached to the top of
the gearbox with a mounting bracket, so undo three 10mm bolts and suspend
the entire assembly out of the way.
11
but its three 13mm bolts need to be undone to
enable the gearbox to be removed. These are accessed
from above the engine, at the front of the engine bay.

shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME December 2023 Car Mechanics 41

CLUTCH CLINIC Ford Mondeo Mk4 2.0 TDCi

Ford Mondeo 1997cc turbodiesel CONTINUED

The gearbox’s upper mount can be

A couple of 13mm bellhousing bolts can
12 now be undone from around the top
of the gearbox. There should be several more
bolts holding the gearbox to the engine.
13 partially undone at this stage, leaving
one 21mm nut to fully undo later when the
‘box is ready to be removed. First, undo the
three 10mm bolts shown here, which are
threaded into the top of the gearbox.
Next, undo four 18mm nuts, which
14 secure the mount for the battery tray/
box onto the gearbox mount. Remove this
mount and place it aside with those 18mm nuts.

 Finally, slacken the

15 21mm centre nut for
the upper gearbox mount,
but do not fully undo it. This
nut will only be fully undone
when the gearbox is ready
to be removed.

 Remove the front

16 road wheels, then
undo the 13mm bolt that
secures each driveshaft to
the wheel hub. This should
have been tightened to
45Nm + 80°.

 Undo the 21mm

17 nut that secures
each track rod end to the
steering arm on the hub.
Use a balljoint splitter to
separate the track rod end
from the steering arm.

 Using a 21mm
18 spanner, undo the
nut for each front lower
suspension outer balljoint.
If the thread of the balljoint
spins with the nut, place a
jack underneath the balljoint
to apply some resistance.

 Separate each
19 lower suspension
arm’s balljoint from the hub
using a balljoint splitter, or
a lever and a hammer (as
shown here).

 Drain the gearbox

20 oil to avoid it spilling
out when removing the
gearbox, so undo an 8mm
Hex bolt. There should be
almost two litres of gearbox Continued
oil to collect. Refit and on page
tighten the drain plug. 44

42 Car Mechanics December 2023 shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME

 KIT & CLASSIC CAR PARTS SPECIALIST

ISSUE 36
OUT NOW!
ORDER YOUR COPY FROM
OUR WEBSITE
www.carbuilder.com

Contains
Wiring Diagrams
Hints & Tips
Installation Guides
Specification Charts
IVA Approved Products

7500+ PRODUCTS
AVAILABLE FOR NEXT
DAY DELIVERY

Contact Information:
01580 891309
info@carbuilder.com
Redlands, TN12 0JJ, UK 98% Positive Feedback from our great customers
CLUTCH CLINIC Ford Mondeo Mk4 2.0 TDCi

Ford Mondeo 1997cc turbodiesel CONTINUED

The offside driveshaft cannot be If the offside driveshaft cannot be

21 Extract the nearside driveshaft by
carefully detaching it with a pry bar from
the gearbox whilst holding the opposite end.
Place the driveshaft aside for refitting later.
22 extracted until a clamp for its centre 23 released through the wheel hub, use a
bearing is released. This is secured with three soft metal copper drift to tap it through with
13mm nuts (two nuts are fitted on one of the a hammer. Use a pry bar to release it at the
studs to hold a mounting bracket). gearbox end.

 A boost pipe is
24 routed underneath
the engine and gearbox, so
it needs to be removed. It’s
secured with a hose clip and
a 10mm nut and bolt.

 Remove the
25 nearside front
wheelarch liner, which is
secured with an assortment
of 10mm plastic nuts, 8mm
screws and several plastic
trim plugs.

 Both front anti-roll

26 bar droplinks need
to be detached to remove
the subframe, so try to undo
their 15mm nuts, using self-
locking pliers if their studs
spin. In our case, we had to
cut through them with an
angle grinder and cutting
disc, then renew them.
 There’s a large
27 exhaust mount
connected between the DPF
and flexi-section, which is
secured to the subframe
with a couple of 10mm bolts
– undo both of them.

 The rear lower

28 gearbox mount
between the subframe
and gearbox needs to be
detached, so undo a 15mm
bolt at this stage. More parts
will need to be removed later.

 A metal brace
29 is fitted across the
back of the front subframe
(below the cat and DPF),
with brackets at each corner
that are secured to the
underside of the body with
13mm bolts – undo them.

44 Car Mechanics December 2023 shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME

 CLUTCH CLINIC Ford Mondeo Mk4 2.0 TDCi

The steering rack will remain on
30 the underside of the vehicle after
removing the subframe, so undo two 18mm
bolts from underneath, then use cable ties or
wire to help suspend it.
31 Position a transmission jack
underneath the subframe, then
slacken the two 21mm bolts at the front
underside, but do not fully remove them yet.
Move to the back of the front subframe
32 and undo the 22mm bolts, which not
only secure the subframe to the underside
of the vehicle, but also those brackets
mentioned in step 29.

 The subframe is now

33 ready to be removed, so
extract all of the bolts mentioned
in the last two steps, then gently
lower it on the transmission
jack. Check the steering rack
remains suspended and isn’t
fouled by the anti-roll bar.
 The rusty-looking
34 mount for the catalytic
converter shown here needs to
be removed as it’s also secured
to the gearbox, so undo three
13mm nuts and one 15mm nut.
It can be awkward to remove
and may need levering off.

 Position a
35 transmission jack
underneath the gearbox and
another under the engine
sump, then look for a plastic
inspection cover next to
where the offside driveshaft
was attached to the gearbox.
Undo the two 13mm bolts that
secure it in place and remove.
 Undo the 21mm nut
36 for the upper gearbox
mount (see step 15), then return
to the underside of the gearbox
and engine to undo the final
13mm bellhousing bolts. There
should be three remaining.

 Wiggle the gearbox to

37 see if it can be released
from the engine. Make sure it
remains fully supported on the
transmission jack. If necessary,
use a pry bar to carefully
release it. If it won’t separate,
check all the bellhousing bolts
have been undone.

 Once the gearbox has

38 been released from the
engine, slowly lower it on the
transmission jack. Make sure
the engine remains supported
underneath the sump.

shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME December 2023 Car Mechanics 45

CLUTCH CLINIC Ford Mondeo Mk4 2.0 TDCi WITH THANKS TO
AES York 01904 780149
autoelectricsyork.co.uk

Ford Mondeo 1997cc turbodiesel CONTINUED Autovaux 01924 376003

autovaux.co.uk
 Undo six Torx T40
39 bolts that secure the
clutch cover to the flywheel.
Remove the cover and the
friction plate behind it.

 The dual mass

40 flywheel is secured to
the crankshaft with six Torx
T50 bolts. Undo all of them
and support the weight of
the DMF (it’s heavy). It sits on
a locating dowel, but may fall
off once the last mounting
bolt is undone. However, it
may need levering off.

 Clean the
41 end of the
crankshaft where
the DMF is fitted and
look for corrosion.
Check the new clutch
cover, friction plate
and DMF are the same
dimensions as the old ones.

 Fit the new DMF

42 (it sits on a locating
dowel) and progressively
tighten the six Torx T50
bolts, then use a torque
wrench to tighten them to
20Nm, followed by 66Nm.

 Use a clutch
43 alignment tool to
fit the new friction plate
and clutch cover onto the
DMF. Fit the six Torx T40
bolts and tighten them to
29Nm. Remove the clutch
alignment tool.

 From inside the

44 gearbox bellhousing,
remove the old clutch
release bearing, secured
with three 8mm bolts. On
the outside, detach a metal
clip for the slave cylinder.

Fit the new release bearing inside
45 the bellhousing, securing it with its
three 8mm bolts. Refit the connection on
the outside for the slave cylinder, ensuring
it clicks in position and can swivel around
where the hydraulic pipe will be reattached.
46 Refit the gearbox back onto the engine,
supporting it with a transmission
jack. Once in position, refit the lower 13mm
bellhousing bolts, followed by the remaining
ones and refit all remaining parts.
Refill the gearbox with 1.8 litres of 75W
47 FE synthetic gear oil via the filler plug
on the side, which can be accessed through
the nearside front wheelarch. Bleed the clutch
via the bleed nipple on the gearbox, where
the hydraulic pipe is attached.

46 Car Mechanics December 2023 shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME

 Rev up your style or spoil a fellow petrolhead this Christmas with our
range of branded merchandise, guides, specials and more.

GIFTS
FROM
JUST
£2

THREE EASY WAYS TO ORDER

1. VISIT SHOP.KELSEY.CO.UK/MOTOR-XMAS23
2. SCAN THE QR CODE
3. CALL 01959 543 747
Scan me
Lines are open Mon-Fri 8.30am to 5.30pm. Calls are charged at your standard network rate. Prices correct at time of print and subject to change.
For full terms and conditions visit shop.kelsey.co.uk/terms. To see how we use your data view our privacy policy here shop.kelsey.co.uk/privacy-policy.
 THAT LASTS ALL YEAR!

GIFTS
FROM JUST
£15.99

OVER 60 TITLES TO CHOOSE FROM

VISIT SHOP.KELSEY.CO.UK/XMAS23M
OR CALL 01959 543 747 AND QUOTE ‘XMAS23M’
Lines are open Mon-Fri 8.30am to 5.30pm. Calls are charged at your standard network rate. Offers available for UK customers only. Savings are based on the standard cover prices.
Offer ends 24/12/2023. The subscription will start with the first available issue after Christmas 2023. Prices correct at time of print and subject to change.
For full terms and conditions visit shop.kelsey.co.uk/terms. To see how we use your data view our privacy policy here shop.kelsey.co.uk/privacy-policy.
 No Ordinary
Dimmer
wheel
allows you
to precisely

Reading Light
adjust the
light output.

Ergonomically designed on the outside,

inside it’s one of the most advanced
reading lights in the world.
Offering crystal clear clarity and incredible
colour rendition, a Serious Light is perfect
for anyone who struggles to read small First and only
print for any length of time or who needs light to make a
to see fine detail.
real difference.
It will transform your Mr White | Warwickshire
visual experience.
Standby Using Daylight Wavelength Technology™,
switch and inside every Serious Light are the latest
ergonomic special purpose purple LEDs, patented
handle phosphors and bespoke electronics. The end
helps you
result is a powerful light beam that closely
direct light
matches natural daylight, something our eyes
beam
precisely find most comfortable to read and work by.
where you When combined with the ability to adjust
need it. the beam width, dimming facility and fully
flexible arm, a Serious Light enables you to
enjoy reading again in complete comfort
and see colours like never before.

HD Table Light HD Floor Light

Height 27” (68cm) Height 60” (152cm)
Weight 5lbs (2.2kg) Weight 13lbs (6kg)
RRP £349.99 RRP £399.99
Light engine £249.99 £299.99
simulated
high definition SAVE £100 when buying any
natural light. HD Light. Quote offer code
Guaranteed 8749 at checkout or when
for 5 years. calling. While stocks last.

Models shown: HD Floor & Table

Beam angle
adjustment wheel For Advice. For a Brochure. To Order:
intuitive beam
adjustment offers 0800 085 1088
beam personalisation. seriousreaders.com/8749
 Buying, Owning
& Improving
Is now the time to buy the first affordable Tesla?
T
esla has been dangling the
‘green’ carrot for well over a
decade now with its range of
sleek, performance-oriented
EVs, starting with the 2009 Roadster,
followed by the Model S in 2012 and
the Model X SUV in 2015. With their
futuristic styling and astonishingly
quick acceleration times, they ticked all
the right boxes for the car enthusiast
– the only rub being their hopelessly
extravagant pricetags which put them
beyond reach of the average motorist.
That all changed with the more
affordable Model 3 which glided in, almost
silently, in 2017. We say that, but in fact it
made quite a big noise among the pundits,
who loved the fact it resembled an Audi
A4 in terms of practicality but with
sports car performance and the allure
NOTHING COMPARES TO THE ORIGINAL
OE REPLACEMENT FROM GERMANY’S PREMIUM OEM
50 Car Mechanics December 2023
of zero emissions. No wonder then
that by 2018, it had become the world’s
best-selling plug-in EV.
The good news is that the popularity
of the Model 3 has trickled down to the
used market which means you’ll find
plenty for sale in the classifieds, with
prices now kicking off at under the
magic £20,000 mark.
The Model 3 was offered to UK
buyers in three different guises; the
single-motor 53kWh Standard and two
all-wheel-drive twin-motor options, the
78kWh Long Range and Performance,
the latter sacrificing battery range in
order to achieve a frankly ridiculous 3.1
second 0-62mph time.
Improvements made in 2021 upped
power of the Performance model to
82kWh and generally improved battery
Ian Cushway
searches out
new and used
parts prices
range across the line-up.
Regarding build quality, there’s a few
question marks. In short, while it offers
a similar amount of family space as an
A4, don’t expect it to measure up to
the Audi when it comes to how well it’s
screwed together with panel fit and the
quality of materials used inside coming
under scrutiny.
As for regular maintenance, well, there
isn’t any. Not in the traditional sense, at
least. Parts can be had from Tesla centres
around the country or via the aftermarket.
Powertrain
We’re not talking blue smoke on the
overrun or the longevity of a turbo or
DPF here, rather how long that battery
is likely to last. And while it’s an issue
Powertrain component prices
CABIN FILTER
Main dealer £15.00
Independent from £11.67 (for two)
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME
 Buying/Owning/Improving Tesla Model 3

Orders are now being

taken for the sleeker,
more sophisticated
2023 Highland model.

that’s usually open to ambiguity and
debate with EVs, the picture looks rosy
with the affordable Tesla. Indeed, it’s
reported that only 5% of battery capacity
is lost in the first 50,000 miles. More
encouraging still, the rate of capacity
loss is thought to be a lot less after that.
For the sceptics out there worried
about being faced with having to
install a new £15,000 battery pack,
the manufacturer’s warranty adds
reassurance; Tesla promised to replace
or refurbish failed batteries up to eight
years old or 100,000 miles on the single-
motor standard car, with the ability
to retain at least 70% of its original
capacity being the benchmark. That
said, with the oldest cars now six years
old, that only gives batteries in these
cars another two years cover. A bit like a
phone then, when viewing a car for sale
it’s important to check the recharge rate
by connecting to a Supercharger so make
sure there’s a functioning one nearby.
Needless to say, there’s various ways
to help ensure a battery lasts as long
as possible with limiting the charge to
80% being a generally accepted tip as the
battery doesn’t like being at zero or 100%
charge, apparently. Also, it’s been said
that plugging into Supercharger points
should be kept to a minimum as their fast
charge rate can accelerate degradation.
Other than that, scheduled replacement
of the cabin air filter (£15 from Tesla)
and brake fluid is advised. Oh, and if the
charging port becomes worn, you’ll have
trouble plugging in the charging cable.
Steering/suspension
For such an innovative car, the
suspension on the Model 3 will look
reassuringly familiar with coil springs
and double wishbones at the front and a
multi-link arrangement at the rear with
all models offering a good mix of agility,
poise and grip. Incidentally, despite the
Performance model running on slightly
stiffer springs and 20in rims, it still feels
reasonably comfortable.
The Model 3 is sensitive to suspension/
steering geometry so if you spot uneven
tyre wear, suspect something’s excessively
worn or out of kilter somewhere.
A popular upgrade is to fit mild lowering
springs – there’s various options available
from aftermarket parts suppliers.

Suspension components
FRONT LOWER LINK INCL.
Which model?
 As you might expect, even the base model
BUSH KIT POWERFLEX
Independent from £353.94 was well equipped with heated front seats and
steering wheel (from 2021), climate, Bluetooth
and that mesmerisingly high-tech centrally-
located 15in control panel all coming as standard.
Generally speaking, the Model 3 got progressively
better over time, though there’s been question
marks over further diminishing build quality. And
the newest ones are still quite dear, anyway.

BILSTEIN B3
Replacement spring range to OE spec

shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME December 2023 Car Mechanics 51

 Buying, Owning Brake component prices

& Improving CONTINUED

FRONT BRAKE DISCS PAIR
Independent from £113.14
FRONT BRAKE PADS
Independent from £100.99

Brakes
Tesla stopping power is good, although
the brakes are underutilised because
the regenerative braking system tends
to do much of the braking. The positive
upshot of this is that component wear
is minimal; the less good aspect is that
components can seize so check the
brakes engage when in Park and release
promptly in Drive.
Most owners will set the regenerative
braking to ‘max’ but it’s worthwhile
dialing it down via the in-car menu every
so often to exercise the calipers.
If you want to upgrade you can; Forge
Motorsport offer a big brake kit which
includes replacement calipers, grooved
discs, pads and braided hoses for £2718.
A word of warning when jacking the
Tesla up; it’s a heavy car and should only
be jacked up at the under sill jacking
points using a rubber puck to prevent
damage. The large flat area under the
car is the base of the battery pack and
should not be used to jack or support the
vehicle in any way.
What to pay
 We’ve witnessed Model 3 prices
tumble from £50k when new to
£30,000 a year or so ago, to as
little as £20,000 today. However,
now orders are being taken for the
latest Highland with its improved
aerodynamics and promise of even
greater range as a result, along with
improved sound insulation and
suspension (as well as an additional
screen in the rear), older Model 3
values are likely to take a further hit.

Performance model had 18in rims and a

slightly stiffer suspension setup but ride
comfort wasn’t compromised.

Tesla opened its first Supercharger charging

point at Edinburgh Airport in 2014.

BILSTEIN B4
Comfort for over 60 years

52 Car Mechanics December 2023 shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME

Huge central screen provides all the information
you’ll need but is quite a distraction for drivers.

Other component prices

HEADLAMP
Secondhand from £175
USEFUL CONTACTS
Running costs Bilstein www.bilstein.com
Forge Motorsport 014452 380999
 Forget MPG because battery range is the thing to be aware of here, although
www. forgemotorsport.co.uk
given the recent rise in energy prices electric cars aren’t as cheap as they used
to be to charge. For the ‘Standard’ model expect somewhere in the region of 254 EV Accessories Ltd
miles and 348 miles for the Long Range. The Performance could take you 329 www.evaccessories.co.uk
miles. After the 2021 revamp, these extended to 305, 374 and 340 respectively, Tesla www.tesla.com
although the subject is never an exact science.
It goes without saying that servicing costs are virtually non-existent and Tesla Owners UK teslaowners.org.uk
there’s zero VED to pay. The biggest expense is likely to be insurance, as even Tessories www. tessories.uk
the Standard car is classed as Insurance Group 50.

Other issues
Aluminium was used for the bonnet,
boot, doors and roof on the Model 3
with the remaining panels made from
steel. While rust shouldn’t be an issue,
rubbish panel fit is – the tailgate on a car
we saw didn’t seem to be closed properly
until reassured by the owner that it
was – so don’t jump to the conclusion
that uneven panel gaps is due to badly
repaired accident damage.
Meanwhile, sunroofs have been
known to stick and the double-glazed
windows to develop cracks, with most
being sorted by Tesla under warranty.
Head and tail light condensation, wind
noise and damp carpets from cabin
leaks are all often mentioned gripes
with owners as are door lock and climate
control failures. The latter has been
blamed on faulty valves in the heating’s
heat pump, but diagnosis should
pinpoint it more precisely.
Verdict
 Minimalistic design, great range
and some exciting and innovative
technical features make the Tesla
stand out against other more
mundane EVs. And with prices now
so affordable, this could be a good
time to buy. You’ll need to be willing
to happily overlook its shortcomings,
though, and savour its many plus
points and awesome performance.

Tesla Model 3 2017-on

Headlamp seals can be breached,
causing condensation inside the
lens. Secondhand lamps can be
Standard LR Performance found online from £175.
Battery (kWh) 53 78 82
Power (bhp) 241 346 449
0-60mph (sec) 5.8 4.2 3.1
Top Speed (mph) 140 145 162
Consumption (miles/kWh) 4.4 4.2 3.8

BILSTEIN B6
Performance OE replacements

shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME December 2023 Car Mechanics 53

 Peter Simpson provides us with an insight into
the automotive sales trading world – and beyond.
Naughty!
 Overall, I think the used car trade has improved significantly
in the 40+ years that I’ve been involved. In part this is down
to tighter regulation, but another major factor is that by and
large, today’s cars are better-made and more durable than
those that were around 20 years ago. I’d also like to think that
most of today’s traders are a bit more professional than was
the norm back then.
Sometimes, however, one hears of a ‘rotten apple’ who really
should not be involved in our industry at all, and Car Dealer
magazine recently reported on one such who ended up with
a criminal conviction and paying out over £6800 in fines, costs
and compensation.
The Essex-based dealer sold a 2006/56 Nissan Pathfinder via
Gumtree to a family in Dorset and, apparently, described it as
a “Good, solid vehicle.”
However, when the buyers took it to their local garage for a
post-purchase inspection, the garage apparently found that
there was severe corrosion to the suspension, the handbrake
didn’t work and the exhaust was leaking. So, they asked to
return the car for a refund. But instead of taking the complaint
seriously, the dealer claimed that it was a ‘trade sale’ – which
it plainly wasn’t – and had been ‘sold as seen’ which a trader
cannot do unless the sale is genuinely trade-to-trade.
The customer then contacted Dorset Council’s Trading
Standards. They inspected the Pathfinder and then
commissioned an independent report which, unsurprisingly,
agreed with the unsafe vehicle verdict.
The next stage was, sadly, inevitable. Trading Standards
charged the guy with not one but two criminal offences. The
first, unsurprisingly, was selling an unroadworthy vehicle.
Additionally, because he’d tried to evade his responsibilities
by alleging a trade as seen sale, he was also charged with
attempting to restrict the customer’s rights, a specific
offence under the Consumer Protection from Unfair Trading
Regulations Act. He pleaded guilty to both and was fined
£1000 for the two offences and ordered to pay compensation
of £3740 (presumably the price paid for the vehicle plus a few
expenses) and the council’s prosecution costs of £2124.25.
So, a big bill plus a criminal record. I think, though, that the
guy got off quite lightly. His only penalty was a financial one.
There have been cases where similar offences have resulted in
community service or even a suspended prison sentence.
A “Good, solid vehicle?” Not really!
54 Car Mechanics December 2023
2006/56 Nissan Pathfinder was not fit for purpose when sold retail,
and following a Trading Standards prosecution, selling it, and
attempting to evade a dealer’s legal responsibilities, ended up costing
the dealer concerned nearly £7000 in fines, compensation and costs.
A criminal record, however, still has significant implications, not
least that many insurance companies charge extra or refuse cover
at all. Especially if, as here, an element of dishonesty is involved.
I suspect that this guy will find it hard to obtain any personal
or public liability insurance for the next few years at least.
In this case, and looking at the photos, it’s patently obvious
that the Nissan wasn’t fit for purpose and should never have been
retailed. But even so, I can’t help but think that the main issue
here was the way in which the guy dealt with the issue. Being
charitable, if one is retailing a lot of cars, it’s possible (though
certainly not right) for one or two to slip through the net and not
be checked as thoroughly as they should be. Even though chassis
corrosion is probably the number one issue on these vehicles.
There’s also always the possibility of missing something.
We’re all human, and human beings make mistakes. This issue,
though, is how one deals with such things. The evidence was
overwhelming, and had he taken the car back – possibly after
seeing photographic evidence of the issues – I’m sure that
would have been the end of it. But instead, he tried to bully/
bluff his way out of it.
It’s also worth bearing in mind that while some trading
standards departments are currently so short-staffed as to be
barely functioning, others are not, and some tend to be very
expert at dealing with the motor trade. And in clear-cut cases
like this, where full recovery of costs is likely, they can and
will prosecute.
More chassis rot. As this is
a known issue on Nissan
Pathfinders, it is rather
surprising that this one
was sold retail by a trader
in this condition.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME
 Dealer’s Diary

Rover gone
 I’ve sold the Rover 75 that’s been
mentioned here over the past couple
of months, and despite having had to
spend the auction hammer price again
on having the alternator changed,
I came out on the right-side profit-wise,
though for a while I did wonder…
It was a difficult car to value in many
ways. To describe it in the worst way
possible it was a diesel 75 estate with
one key, little history, a falling-down
headlining and a very badly sprayed
roof. But on the other hand, it was also a
top-spec Connoisseur SE diesel 130bhp
auto with an exceptionally straight,
solid and rot-free body, including the
usual problem-spot at the back of the
sills. It was also a sensible-miler that ran
and drove very nicely, came with a new
no-advisory MOT and, of course, the
new alternator. In other words, it was
a perfectly viable and useable car as it
was, but genuinely had potential for
worthwhile improvement.
Anyway, average to good 75 estates
seem to sell for £1500-2000, though
rough low-spec ones are cheaper.
Enthusiast interest is, however,
definitely on the rise – a top-spec
diesel auto estate is probably the most
desirable model of all, and the best
cars are still making £3-£3.5k. This one
genuinely had the potential to be up
there with the best.
Initially I advertised it on eBay. This
resulted in lots of ‘watchers’ – 77 by the
end of week one – but only two enquiries.
One was from a chap who for some
strange reason felt a need to tell me
that he had read my advertisement but
was going to carry on looking because
in his opinion the car needed “a fortune
spending on it.” The other was from an
85-year-old living in the Cotswolds who
wanted “a bit of luxury” to ride around in
but needed me to deliver the car and/or
take his Toyota Yaris in part-exchange.
Under normal circumstances this is
something I would have considered,
but I just couldn’t see this particular car
suiting his needs without a bit of work
which he clearly wasn’t going to do. So,
I politely declined; some may call that
‘unconscious bias’, I prefer to think of it
as acting professionally.
After a week, I listed the car on
Facebook Marketplace. This has the
advantage of being 100% free, but the
big downside is that it is the natural
habitat of dodgy sellers, dodgy buyers,
and some decidedly dodgy cars! You can,
though, sometimes advertise a car within
a make or model-specific group, though
the inevitable self-appointed armchair
experts that inhabit these can sometimes
make an extremely thick skin necessary.
My buyer came from one of the
Rover groups, and Adam was the ideal
buyer for this car. But by that I don’t
mean he was naïve, gullible and didn’t
know what he was doing. No, he was
the exact opposite, had owned Rover
75s before, and knew them well. This
meant that, like me, he could see past
the paint and headlining, and see the
genuine potential of this one. He paid
the full £1995 asking price without
quibbling at all. He then took the car
there and then, messaging later to
confirm he had got home safely and
without incident – a distance of around
140 miles – and the car was “great.”
A good outcome all round I think...

The rebirth of MG
 MG has, it would be fair to say, improved somewhat since the early days of
the marque’s relaunch in the UK under SAIC Chinese ownership. Today, the
marque is at the forefront of (relatively) affordable EV technology and offering a
fine range of vehicles which appeal to a broad range of buyers.
It’s all been a massive commercial success too – MG sold over 30,000 cars in
2022 and have just announced turnover in 2022 more than doubled compared
to 2021, and profits surged from £4.2million in 2021 to £54million in 2022. That
apparently is an increase of 1188%.
This is all a far cry from May 2011 when the MG6 was their first all-new car to
launch in the UK. Designed in the UK and assembled in the then-remaining part of the once-massive Longbridge plant. Sales were,
though, poor – in 2012 MG sold just 782 cars in the UK – and despite having its good points, the MG6 soon established a reputation
for unreliability and poor parts availability, though in the best BL tradition of Longbridge-made cars, the MG6 did improve with time.
Anyway, one rather sad consequence of this sea-change at MG is that the dealer network is also changing. When it launched,
MG tended to attract smaller, family-owned local dealerships; the big boys weren’t interested. One or two classic MG specialists
also took on the new MG. By and large these firms did an excellent job. They also had to put up with parts issues and a few cases
where the product wasn’t really perfect for the UK; for example, not all pre-2016 petrol MGs are OK on E10 fuel.
Now, though, the big multi-make dealer groups are keen to sell MGs; Arnold Clark’s portfolio now includes seven MG retail
sites, and other firms to have taken MG franchises in the past year or two include Norton Way, Glyn Hopkin and Stoneacre
Group. MG don’t deny that they are changing the face of their dealer network. Writing in the annual report, director Hao Wang
said: “Whilst the total number of dealerships remained at 153 there were a number of exits and entries which continued to
improve the profile of dealers, replacing loss-making dealerships with secure regional groups who have capability to invest
more heavily in people, processes and local marketing.”
Many of us have, though, seen all this before. Once upon a time, air-cooled Volkswagens were sold through family-run, and
often slightly quirky, small dealerships. Then it was Citroën, then Datsun/Nissan, and then Skoda. Probably the most recent
marque to move into the UK mainstream was Kia. Now, Chinese-owned MG looks set to go the same way.

shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME December 2023 Car Mechanics 55

Pothole investigation
POTHOLE
PROBLEM
Steve Rothwell looks into problem potholes.
S
tart a conversation with any
driver about the state of the
roads and the first words will be
potholes. I have heard it said that
the phrase pothole dates back to the
Roman days when potters stole clay
from the roman roads to use in the
manufacturing of Roman pots. I’m not sure
if that is true or not, and I was under the
belief that roman roads were constructed
mainly of gravel, but I’m sure that Roman
roads were probably in better condition
than the tarmac ones we now use!
The continuing growing population
of potholes which are appearing at a
faster rate than they can be repaired
is a constant bane of the road user
whether they have two, three four or
more wheels. Every road I drive on now
has become an obstacle course with the
need to weave in and out of the potholes
that continue to appear with no sign of
a repair in sight. The RAC reported that
in years 2022/23, the total number of
potholes filled in was 1.4 million, this
was down from 1.7 million the previous
year but still equivalent to one pothole
being repaired every 22 seconds in
England (including London) and Wales.
In the USA a national pothole day
exists (January 15th), so the problem is
not restricted to the British Isles which
is a small conciliation.
Using a credit card when photographing
the pothole as evidence of its size will
help give a good indication of the depth.
56 Car Mechanics December 2023
The total cost of filling in the UK’s
potholes was estimated at £93.7 million,
down 13% from the £107.4 million
reported in the previous year.
Another £200,000,000 was added to the
maintenance and pothole repair funding
budget in March 2023. The largest
amount of £9,390,800 going to Devon.
The potholes are, though, not just a
nuisance or an inconvenience, they are
a serious hazard to all motorists, and
a hazard that can cause quite serious
damage. I should point out at this stage
that to be a pothole the indentation in the
road needs to be at least 40mm in depth.
At the very least running over a shallow
pothole will give the suspension a good
shake up, but more serious damage to
alloy wheels and steering joints is very real
and very common. I have seen a multitude
of alloy wheels that have been irreparably
damaged due to driving into a pothole.
So, what should you do if you become
a statistic and join the ranks of the
many motorists who find themselves
with expensive damage due to an
unseen pothole.
The first point to make is that even
if you do not suffer from any vehicle
damage, reporting the pothole will at
least get it in the system. This can be done
simply by going to www.gov.uk/report-
pothole this will then direct you to your
Although looking rough this
poorly maintained road is not
considered as having potholes.
local council’s website where the pothole
can be reported. You can also report
potholes at www.fillthathole.org.uk or
www.fixmystreet.com
If you have suffered damage – and it is
safe to do so – then the first action you
should take is to photograph the pothole
and the damage to your vehicle, and if
you have a ruler handy to give aspect
to the image, this will help. Doing this
will then give you a good basis to make
the claim for damage received. Ensure
the picture is date stamped and if any
other motorists or pedestrians are in
the area and can act as a witness to the
incident get their details. The authority
will require the precise location of the
incident, so if the location using an
OS Grid ref, the GPS co-ordinates, or
the what3words location. If you don’t
have the what3sords app this is worth
downloading, as it gives a precise
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME
 Pothole investigation
location within a 3-metre square. The It can often be the case
claim form will also ask the condition of that adjacent potholes
the road, so make a note was it dry, wet will not be repaired, as
or icy, and the form will then ask the they are not marked.
visibility, ensure you have all these facts.
When checking the damage to your
vehicle be careful not to miss any points,
so ensure that the lower arms or anti-roll
bar links have not been compromised
by the collision. I would recommend not
starting any action until the vehicle has
been checked. It would be counteractive
to send off a claim for an alloy wheel, only
to then find that a spring or suspension
component has also been damaged.
Make sure that there are no new
vibrations or knocking noises and that
the feel of the steering has not altered.
Local authorities in particular are
short of money these days, and while
once upon a time claims often wouldn’t
be investigated and could be ‘inflated’
without anyone noticing, nowadays
they are a lot more careful. If you try
to deliberately claim for something
that’s fraudulent – for example for
suspension damage that doesn’t exist –
then you stand a higher chance of being
prosecuted for fraud. Overall, claim what
you are entitled to, not what you think
you can get away with...

Who do you make

the claim against?
Well, the responsibility for the
maintenance of the roads normally
falls on the local authority who are
accountable for maintaining the roads in
their area – this will be the council you
are directed to from the gov.uk website.
The local authority is then obligated
to respond to complaints within thirty
days. If they don’t, contact them again
via their complaints department. They
will then normally either accept the
claim and cover the repair as detailed by
your submitted estimate, or they may
offer a partial settlement. It will then be
up to you if you decide it worth accepting
the payment or starting the fight for the
full amount. The other possible scenario
is that they reject the claim altogether.
But if you are on a Motorway or
A-road that spans more than one
county, the responsibility falls to
National Highways England, in England,
NI Direct in Northern Ireland and
Transport Scotland in Scotland. On the
nationalhighways.co.uk website go
to the help centre, and you will find a
section labelled claim compensation.
From here you will see a tab at the base
of the page showing ‘red claims’ – the
page will offer a list of examples where
they are not liable, but once you click
through the claims process, details will
be as follows:
Serious tyre and wheel damage can occur as a result of hitting a pothole and avoidance when
possible is the best policy.
1 Claim is identified.
2 National highways determine liability.
3 If National highways are to settle the
claim, go to step 8. If they are not going
to settle, go to step 4.
4 Send denial letter to the claimant (if you
receive a denial letter you can escalate
the claim and send further evidence,
this will then be reviewed).
5 If additional evidence is received, review
the documents. If claim is to be settled,
go to step 8. If no additional evidence is
provided, go to step 7.
6 Decision is upheld. Close claim on
all systems (this decision can still be
opposed and if any further evidence is
Even a light brush with a pothole can result
available this should be submitted). in tyre damage which may not at the time be
7 If no additional evidence is provided, noticed, but worth checking after any incident.
close claim on all systems (at this point
you may seek legal assistance, this can 11 Issue payment to the claimant.
be expensive). 12 Close claim on all systems.
8 Is litigation now required? If yes, go to National Highways also point out that
step 9. If no, go to step 11. damage occurring due to debris on
9 National Highways will instruct the road is not the responsibility of the
solicitors to act on their behalf. authorities, and this should be covered
10 Complete litigation activity with our by your car insurance, but is not the
litigation partner. responsibility of National Highways.

shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME December 2023 Car Mechanics 57

 BOOKAZINE SERIES!
The publishers of Car Mechanics magazine have produced these quarterly ‘yellow’ bookazine series
titles, providing top-level advice to anyone interested in vehicle maintenance. Professional top tips on
engine work, transmission rebuilds, working on bodywork and electronic diagnostics, Car Mechanics
Expert aims to provide detailed hints and tips to enable enthusiasts to keep their cars on the road for
longer and for less money. The series is also intended as a useful introduction for anyone considering
entering the motor trade and is sure to be a highly useful reference guide for many years to come.

Solving common problems on

Demystifying
VEHICLE MODERN
EXPERT DIAGNOSTICS
PROFESSIONAL ADVICE FOR
DIY MECHANICS
EXPERT ENGINES
PROFESSIONAL ADVICE FOR

CAR MECHANICS EXPERT

TH
DIY MECHANICS
MADE EASY  DIY DIAGNOSTICS INDEP  UNDERSTANDING ENGINE
 ELECTRONIC DIAGNOSTICS S
OIL  OVERHAULING CRANKSHAFT
 MULTIMETER MASTERCLAS  CHANGING TIMING BELTS S
CAR MECHANICS EXPERT

 TRACING FAULTS ACCUR ATELY & CHAINS  REBUILDING STARTER MOTO

INED
 AUTOMOTIVE WIRING EXPLA
 TROUBLESHOOTING ECUs
 INTERPRETING FAULT CODES
RS
 USING OSCILLOSCOPES  EXPLORING VARIABLE VALVE
TIMING  LOOKING AFTER FUEL INJECT
ORS
 WORKING WITH SCAN TOOLS  FRONTEND AUXILIARY DRIVE
CARE
SYSTEMS  REMOVING STUCK INJECT
ORS
 ESSENTIAL 12V BATTERY  RECONDITIONING ALTERNATOR
S  DECOKING CLOGGED ENGIN
ES

SERIES  SOLVING COMMO

LEARN
NEW
SERIES  DEMYSTIFYING

SKILLS
N PROBLE
VEHICL

MS ON MODERN ENGINES
E DIAGNOSTICS

LEARN
NEW
SKILLS RENE WING TIMING
BELTS & CHAINS
CHOOSE
THE
CORRECT
OIL FOR
YOUR
ENGINE

ALTERNATOR REPAIRS
USING MULTIMETERS VITAL BATTERY CARE FUEL INJEC TION FIXES
ENGINE ECU REPAIRS
1.indd 1
11/06/2021 12:34

Working on
Exterior & interior EMISSION
EXPERT CAR CARE
PROFESSIONAL ADVICE FOR
DIY MECHANICS
EXPERT SYSTEMS
PROFESSIONAL ADVICE FOR
DIY MECHANICS
 STOP RUST FROM TAKIN FIX ERTER
GA HOLD  UNDERBODY RUSTPROOF  2.7 TDV6 CATALYTIC CONV
 STUDYING THE ART OF WELD ING  EMISSIONS EDUCATION
 EGR VALVE INVESTIGATION
CAR MECHANICS EXPERT

ING  DEALING WITH DENTS TECH

 MAKE PATCHES & REPAI  DEMYSTIFYING STOPSTART
R PANELS  ALLOY WHEEL REFURBISHM  FLUSHING & BEYOND
 REAR SILL & WHEELARCH ENT  FIXING EXHAUST SYSTEMS
REPAIRS  UPHOLSTERY MADE GOOD SYSTEMS  FUEL & OIL ADDITIVES
 AFFORDABLE DIY PAINT  WET DPF & SCR EMISSIONS E FUELS
ING OPTIONS  DETAILING: INSIDE & OUT & DPF REPAIRS  EXPLORING ALTERNATIV
 CATALYTIC CONVERTER
STOPSTART
TECHNOLOGY
EXPERT SERIES

ALLOY
WHEEL
SERIES

REFURB
EXTERIOR & INTERIOR CAR

WORKING ON EMISSION SYSTEM

CARE

LEARN LEARN
S

NEW NEW
SKILLS SKILLS

PROTECT FROM RUST DIY PAINT RENOVATION EXHAUST FIXING £8.99

UPHOLSTERY FIXES EGR VALVE STUDY WET DPF SYSTEMS
£8.99
1.indd 1 13/06/2022 13:21

58 Car Mechanics December 2023 shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME

 CLUTCHES & LEARN
EXPERT
DUAL MASS
FLYWHEELS NEW EXPERT RUSTPROOFING
and
CURING SURFACE LEARN
SKILLS RU ST
NEW
Overhauling Get to grips with SKILLS

TRANSMISSIONS BODYWORK

CAR MECHANICS
DIY MECHANICS
PROFESSIONAL ADVICE FOR PROFESSIONAL AD
VICE FOR DIY ME
 FULLY AUTOMATIC GEARB
OXES
 A GUIDE TO RUS CHANICS
 BECOME A GEARBOX GURU TPR

EXPERT SERIES 
OOFING
HES & DMFs  REPAIRING PLA
 UNDERSTANDING CLUTC  PAINT CORREC STIC BUMPERS
 SINGLE & TWIN CLUTCH STIFIED
TION & PROTEC TION
AUTOMATED MANUALS DEMY  OVERHAULING DRIVESHAFT
S
 BUDGET PAIN
 SORTING PAN
EL DENTS
T JOBS
GEARB OXES  RESTORING CHIP
 REPAIRING DIREC T SHIFT  ALLWHEELDRIVE SYSTE
MS  DIY SILL & PAIN S & SCR ATCHES
DSG & MECHATRONIC UNITS T REFURBISHMENT
 BUYING SALVAG
E VEHICLES

GET TO GRIPS WITH

N & REBUILD TACKLE BUDGET
MANUAL GEARBOX INSPECTIO PAINT JOBS
OVERHAULING TRANSMISSIONS

PLASTIC BUMPER
REPAIRS

AUTOMATED MANUALS

BODY WORK
JAGUAR XF ‘CAT
S’ REPAIR DIY SILL REFURBIS
HMENT
DSG MECHATRONICS

FULLY AUTOMATIC
£8.99 £8.99
12/09/2022 12:36

Making repairs to
1.indd 1

STEERING & ELECTRONIC DIAGNOSTICS

EXPERT SUS
REPRINTS
PENSION
PROFESSIONAL ADVICE FOR
DIY MECHANICS
Volumes 1 and 2
 UNDERSTANDING VEHICLE
SUSPENSION  STEERING BOX STRIP & REBUI
LD
Vol. 1 contains 17 models from BMW E90 to Volvo S40
 STEERING SYSTEM FAULT
S
 DIY SPRING & DAMPER REPLA
CEMENT
 WORKING ON AIR SUSPENSION Vol. 2 contains 18 models from Audi A4 to VW Golf MkV
 RUBBERTOMETAL BUSH
 FAULTFINDING PAS SYSTE RENEWAL
MS  TOP STRUT MOUNTS  VW
 STEERING RACK REPAIRS BEETLE
 JAGUAR AIR SUSPENSION
PUMP SWAP
Learn new skills
ELECTRONIC
STEERING SYSTEM FAULTS VOLUME
LEARN
ELECTRONIC2
EXPERT DIAGNOSTICS
NEW
EXPERT DIAG
SKILLS
A compilation of VOLUME NOSTICS
A compilation of ENG INE
ENGINE
MANAGEME NT 1 GUIDES from Car Mech
MANAGE MENT
anics magazine
CAR MECHANICS EXPERT

CAR MECHANICS EXPERT SERIES

GUIDES from  AUDI A4 2.0 TDI

Car Mechanics  BMW 1SERIES 2.0D

magazine  CITROËN C4 PICASSO 1.6

HDi
 FIAT 500L 1.6 MULTIJET
 BMW 318i E90
 FORD FIESTA 1.0 ECOBOO
 CITROËN C3 1.6 ST
 CITROËN C5 2.2 HDi  FORD GRAND C-MAX 2.0
TDCi
SERIES  ELECTRONIC DIAGNOSTI

 HONDA ACCORD 2.0 i-VTEC  FORD TRANSIT 2.2 TDCi

 MAZDA2 1.5
 ELECTRONIC DIAGNOSTIC

 HONDA CRV 2.2 i-CTDi

CDi
 MERCEDESBENZ ML280  HONDA JAZZ 1.4 i-DSI
 NISSAN MICRA C+C 1.6  JAGUAR STYPE 3.0
 PEUGEOT 407 1.6 HDi
 NISSAN QASHQAI 1.5 dCi
 RENAULT CLIO 1.2 16v
 PEUGEOT 206 1.9D
 SKODA OCTAVIA 1.9 TDI PD
 PORSCHE BOXSTER 2.7
 smart fortwo 599cc
 RENAULT MEGANE II 1.4 ISSUE 8
 TOYOTA COROLLA 1.6
S VOLUME 2
CS VOLUME 1

 VAUXHALL TIGRA B 1.4  SEAT IBIZA 1.4

 VOLKSWAGEN EOS 1.4 TSI  SKODA OCTAVIA 2.0 TDI

ISSUE 9  VOLKSWAGEN FOX 1.2  VAUXHALL ASTRA H 1.6

Turbo
FSI
 VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT 2.0 £8.99  VOLKSWAGEN GOLF 1.6
FSI
 VOLVO S40 2.0 BIFUEL £9.99

RUBBER BUSHES AIR SUSPENSION TOP STRUT MOUNTS

£9.99
001.indd 1
1.indd 1

Buy a Print SINGLE ISSUE at £9.99 each

12/03/2023 21:03

or a Digital SINGLE ISSUE at £8.99 each

Or purchase a subsciption at £35.96 per annum (4 x bookazines)
Shop today:
visit: shop.kelsey.co.uk/single-issue/car-mechanics-expert-magazine
Or call: 01959 543747
Lines open Monday-Friday 8.30am-5.30pm. Calls are charged at your standard network rate
Full terms and conditions can be found at shop.kelsey.co.uk/terms Offer of £9.99 applies to UK. Overseas prices also available.

shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME December 2023 Car Mechanics 59

 ADVERTISING
DOESN’T COST,
IT PAYS!
TO ADVERTISE,
5% Discount off List Price
CALL NAT ON:
on Presentation of this Advert
01732 445674
OR EMAIL:
NATALIE@TALK-MEDIA.UK

NEXT MONTH ON
TEST

DIESEL PARTICULATE
FILTER CLEANING
 How to keep your DPF healthy
JANUARY 2024
issue out Bluetooth
engine FCRs
DECEMBER 15
without raising a finger
 Why DPFs block and what you can
do to prevent it
● ELECTRONIC DIAGNOSTICS on a
 What to do when regeneration fails VW GOLF 1.6 TDI
● BMW 335d X-DRIVE SERVICE
 How to clean your DPF from home
without damaging it ● BUYING + OWNING: KIA STINGER
● DRIVING THE TOYOTA GR86
 On-car professional DPF methods
described
 How to save money on mail-order
off-car DPF cleaning

To ensure you receive every issue of Car Mechanics, place an order with your local newsagent. Once setup,
your copy will be held for you to collect, saving you the time and the frustration of having to search the
newsstand. Some newsagents may even offer a home delivery service, making it even easier to obtain your
copy. So don’t miss an issue, simply complete the form below and take to your local newsagent today.
NEWSAGENT ORDER FORM *delete as appropriate
❒

VAG HALDEX GEN4

Please reserve/deliver* a copy of CAR MECHANICS on a regular basis, commencing with the ................................................ issue for
Mr/Mrs/Ms............................... First name ......................................................................... Surname .....................................................................................

OIL/FILTER CHANGE
Address .............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
Postcode ...................................................................................... Daytime Tel No ................................................................................................................
 Service Bay

Overall
difficulty
rating

2015 Citroën C3 THANKS TO

AES York Ltd 01904 780149

3-cylinder
autoelectricsyork.co.uk

T
he compact family-sized Citroën potentially swell and break up may not
C3 that was manufactured be everyone’s idea of reliable motoring.

service between 2010 and 2016

Rob Hawkins follows the
service of a three-cylinder
non-turbo petrol engine
C3, which is equipped
with a wet timing belt.
includes a seemingly wheezy
82bhp 1199cc three-cylinder petrol
engine that’s not turbocharged (there is a
turbocharged version which has 110bhp).
In return for a 0-60mph time of almost
14 seconds, you get over 60mpg and road
tax of only £20 per year. Also, you get
what we think is a straightforward engine
to service, although having a timing belt
that runs through the engine oil and can
The following steps were photographed
at AES near York, where proprietor Mark
Shipman has serviced and repaired many
a C3. He says that the recommended
service interval for the timing belt may
be different on some models and he has
seen belt failure on cars with as little as
40,000 miles. We also discovered some
peculiarities, such as the spark plugs,
which usually require a 14mm socket,
but on this occasion, needed a 16mm.

Underbonnet FUSEBOX
EQUIPMENT REQUIRED
layout BRAKE FLUID
RESERVOIR
› jack › axle stands (or ramp) › oil drain bowl
› 8-10mm sockets/spanners › 8mm Hex tool/
bit › 16mm spark plug socket with extension
AIR FILTER HOUSING 12V BATTERY bars › screwdrivers › pry bar › battery tester or
multimeter › spray grease › tyre pump/gauge
› torch › torque wrench › clean measuring jug
IGNITION COILS & › brake pad thickness gauge › Vernier calipers
SPARK PLUGS x 3 or digital Verniers › soft brush › antifreeze
SCREENWASH hydrometer › oil filter wrench/pliers

ENGINE OIL
Rob says
DIPSTICK  The service warning
message on the
dashboard can be cleared
and reset by switching on
the ignition and holding
down the tripmeter
reset button. Watch
ENGINE OIL the instrument readout for an indication
FILLER CAP that the service warning message is being
reset – it will count down a reset procedure.
COOLANT Afterwards, switch off the ignition, then
EXPANSION switch it on again to see whether the service
TANK warning has been cleared.

Concerned about E10 petrol?

The E10 Additive mitigates the problems

62 Car Mechanics December 2023 shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME


UNDERBONNET CHECKS
1 REFILL SCREENWASH
Top up the screenwash reservoir in the offside
of the engine bay. Operate the windscreen
wipers and washers to check their spray
pattern and to look for blocked washer jets.
Inspect all wiper blades for splits in the rubber.
4 CHECK BATTERY
The 12V vehicle battery is on the nearside
of the engine bay and concealed by a cover
and connector block. There’s a plastic flap to
unclip to reveal the positive terminal, and a
larger hinged cover to reveal more positive
connectors. Make sure all these are clean and
free of corrosion.
7 SQUEEZE HOSES
Providing the engine is cold, squeeze any
coolant hoses to look for perishing of the
rubber and possible leaks. Make sure all of
these hoses are securely fitted.
Seized injectors, glow or spark plugs? Injector
and Glow Plug Dismanting Aid is the answer
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME
Service Bay 2015 CITROËN C3 1.2
2 CHECK COOLANT
The coolant expansion tank is a translucent tank,
so the level can be checked by looking at the
side of it and comparing it with the MIN and MAX
markers. If it needs topping up, ensure the engine
is cold. Test the cooling and freezing capacity of
the coolant with an antifreeze hydrometer.
TOP TIP 3 CHECK BRAKE FLUID
The brake fluid reservoir is on the nearside
The coolant
of the engine bulkhead. Shine a torch on the
system contains
side to check the level against a MAX marker.
5 litres of diluted
Freecor DSC If you can’t see the level, wipe around the cap
before undoing it and looking inside.
6 CHECK AUX BELTS
The two auxiliary drive belts can be inspected
from above and below the offside of the
5 INSPECT FUSES engine bay. Look for cracks across the ribs
A small fusebox is located on the nearside of and frayed edges – evidence of such damage
the engine bay. Release its plastic lid to look means the belt must be replaced. These belts
inside and check for water ingress, corrosion should be replaced after 10 years or 112,500
and blown fuses. miles, then every six years or 62,500 miles.
8 MEASURE TIMING BELT
The timing belt runs through the engine oil, so it can swell
and will need to be renewed if it has – the recommended
interval for this car is every 10 years or 112,500 miles, then every six years or 62,500 miles. A
measuring tool can be used to check its width, inserting it via the oil filler neck. Sealey’s tool
(part number VSE5094) costs around £25 or less. A similar tool is available from Laser and Dayco.
December 2023 Car Mechanics 63
Service Bay 2015 CITROËN C3 1.2
AIR & CABIN FILTERS
9 UNDO HOUSING
The air filter is contained inside a vertically-
mounted plastic housing between the engine
and vehicle battery. Ideally, it needs to be
removed to change the air filter inside, so
undo one 10mm mounting bolt, detach a
breather pipe and undo a hose clip.
12 FIND THE CABIN FILTERS
The two cabin filters are located underneath
the scuttle trim panel on the offside rear of
the engine bay. First, look for a small plastic
access panel, which is clipped to the front
edge of the scuttle trim panel. Release the
top edge of it to open and remove it.
SPARK PLUGS
15 REMOVE COIL PACKS
There are three spark plugs, each with their
own coil pack which must be removed to
access them. Detach the plug connector for
each coil pack, then undo an 8mm bolt before
carefully pulling the coil pack up and out of
the top of the engine.
Restore the original performance and efficiency
of the engine with Injection Cleaner
64 Car Mechanics December 2023
10 REMOVE HOUSING
Detach the feed pipe to the bottom of the air
filter housing (it may be easier to remove the
feed pipe which is routed to the front of the
engine bay), disconnect the hose at the top of
the housing whose hose clip was undone in
the last step, then carefully try to lift the air
filter housing out of the engine bay. Detach
anything that obstructs its removal.
13 EXTRACT CABIN FILTERS
Look through the hole where the panel was
removed in the last step (shine a torch inside
to help) to see two cabin filters sat side by
side. The larger filter should be on the left
(offside), with the smaller one on the right.
They may have been incorrectly fitted and
not sitting flat. Extract both cabin filters.
16 EXTRACT SPARK PLUGS
Use a 14mm or 16mm spark plug socket (sizes
vary) and extension bars to undo and remove
the three old spark plugs. Each plug is fitted
deep inside the top of the engine, so if the
plug drops out of the end of the socket, try
extracting it with a magnetic pick-up tool.
11 OPEN HOUSING
Place the air filter housing on a workbench
and use a crosshead screwdriver to undo six
screws to separate the two halves of it. Extract
the old air filter, clean inside the housing, then
fit a new air filter and refit all of the screws.
Lower the air filter housing into the engine
bay, remembering to secure the hose clip,
breather pipe and 10mm mounting bolt.
14 FIT CABIN FILTERS
Fit the smallest cabin filter first, making sure
any airflow arrows are pointing downwards.
This filter must sit flat inside its housing with
room to the left of it to fit the larger filter.
Now fit the second filter, ensuring the filter
sits flat inside its housing. Refit the panel
that was removed in step 12.
17 CHECK NEW SPARK PLUGS
Make sure the new spark plugs are the same
size and have the same length of thread
as the old ones. NGK LZKR6AI-10G spark
plugs with an electrode gap of 1mm are
recommended in this case.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME
 Service Bay 2015 CITROËN C3 1.2
ENGINE OIL & FILTER

18 TIGHTEN TO 22Nm 19 DRAIN ENGINE OIL 20 UNSCREW OIL FILTER

Fit each new spark plug, tightening each one
to 22Nm, which Mark at AES says is important.
He has discovered the engine can misfire if
the plugs are not correctly tightened, and
he has also discovered that removing and
refitting old plugs can lead to misfires.
Position a drain bowl or container below
the sump, then undo the drain plug using
an 8mm Hex bit. This is a messy job and oil
will probably run down your hand and arm,
so either wear gloves or wash your hands
immediately afterwards.
Whilst the engine oil is draining, use a filter
wrench or pliers to undo the spin-on oil filter
next to the sump (accessed from underneath
the vehicle). Oil will also drain out once it
has been undone, so leave it for a couple of
minutes before fully undoing and removing it.

21 FIT A NEW FILTER

Add a smear of fresh engine oil to the seal on
the new oil filter, then fit it onto the housing
on the engine, tightening it by hand. The oil
filter should be tightened to 14Nm, but if you
have no means of doing this with a torque
wrench, only tighten it by hand.
22 RENEW DRAIN PLUG WASHER
The 8mm Hex drain plug can be reused if it’s in
good condition, but it’s worthwhile replacing
its copper washer because the old one will
have been crushed. Once the oil has finished
draining, refit the plug and tighten it to 42Nm.
23 MEASURE 3.3 LITRES
Pour 3.3 litres of 0W-30, 5W-30 or 40 fully-
synthetic engine oil (grades vary depending
on climate) into the engine via the filler cap.
After a few minutes, check the level on the
dipstick, topping up if necessary.

UNDERSIDE CHECKS

24 RUN & LEAK CHECK

After refilling the engine oil and checking the
drain plug and filter housing are correctly
tightened, start the engine and make sure
no oil pressure or low-level warning lights
remain displayed. Switch off, look around
for oil leaks, then recheck the level on the
dipstick, topping up if necessary.
25 CHECK COIL SPRINGS
The front suspension coil springs can be visually inspected over the tops of the tyres, whereas the
rears can be checked from underneath the back of the vehicle. Look for corrosion and fractured
coils. Use a small soft brush to carefully remove any dirt around the base of each spring but keep
your fingers out of the way. Look around the dampers for signs of leaks (misting).

Which oil is the right one? Check out

the online oil guide at www.liqui-moly.com

shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME December 2023 Car Mechanics 65

Service Bay 2015 CITROËN C3 1.2
UNDERSIDE CHECKS CONTINUED
26 INSPECT EXHAUST
Mark at AES says the exhaust mounts are
known to corrode and fracture and we had
to repair one of them on this vehicle. Most
of the mounts are welded onto the exhaust
system and are often difficult to repair.
29 INSPECT BEAM AXLE BUSHES
The rear suspension consists of a beam axle.
Check its large frontmost mounting bush for
signs of perishing, which if worn, may result
in handling issues and uneven tyre wear.
These bushes can be replaced with either
standard rubber bushes or polyurethane.
SERVICE SCHEDULE
EVERY 12,500 MILES or 12 MONTHS
 Change engine oil & oil filter
 Check coolant level & test concentration
 Check tyre condition, pressure & tread
 Top-up screenwash fluid
 Check battery
 Check wiper blades & washer jets
 Check all underbonnet components
& hoses for fluid leaks
 Inspect brakes
 Check steering & suspension
components
 Check auxiliary drive belt
 Inspect exhaust system & mountings
 Check operation of all electrical systems
 Lubricate all locks & hinges
 Check brake fluid for moisture content
Sticky manual transmission?
Gear Oil Additive can help
66 Car Mechanics December 2023
27 SQUEEZE BOOTS
The corrugated rubber gaiters around the
ends of the driveshafts can be inspected from
underneath. Squeeze these boots to look
for cracks in the rubber, which could allow
grease to escape and water to get in, leading
to premature wear. Make sure each boot is
securely fitted with suitable clips. Check the
small dust covers on the track rod ends.
30 WIGGLE DROPLINKS
Shake the droplinks on the ends of the front
anti-roll bar to check for excessive play. Try
to visually inspect the rubber mounts for the
ARB, looking for perishing. New droplinks
cost around £12 each and a set of D-bushes
for the ARB around £20.
EVERY 24 MONTHS
 Change brake fluid
EVERY 48 MONTHS, THEN EVERY
24 MONTHS
 Change cabin filter
EVERY 37,500 MILES
 Replace air filter
 Replace spark plugs
EVERY 112,500 MILES or
120 MONTHS, THEN EVERY
62,500 MILES or 72 MONTHS
 Replace timing belt and auxiliary drive
belts (two) – recommended intervals
vary, so check for your specific make
and model
28 LEVER FRONT LOWER ARMS
Check all the mounting bushes and the outer
balljoint for each front lower suspension arm.
An outer balljoint costs under £30, whereas
a complete arm with a new balljoint can be a
little over £70.
31 INSPECT BRAKES
There’s room to measure the thickness of the
discs (minimum disc thickness is 7mm for
non-vented and either 20mm for 266mm-
diameter vented discs or 24mm for 283mm-
diameter) and the thickness of the pads’
friction material. The rear brakes are drums,
so there’s no means of checking them without
removal of each drum.
Don’t forget to also
 CHECK TYRE
TREAD and
remove any
lodged stones.
 LUBRICATE
LOCKS and
hinges with
spray grease.
 TIGHTEN WHEEL BOLTS to 100Nm.
 INSPECT FUEL FILLER CAP SEAL
for perishing.
 CHECK BOOT for water ingress.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME
Your trade
Our tech

#MyLamp
Introducing new,
brighter colours for
our inspection lamps
The RIL6100 MAGflex Rechargeable
Mini LED Inspection Lamp has proved a
popular lamp for technicians due to its
bright 250 lumens, multi-angle functionality
and magnetic base.
We’ve now added two new colour options
to choose from, blue and yellow, so they
are distinctive and easily noticeable in a
workshop environment.

Find out more at:

www.ringautomotive.com
/ringautomotive RIL6100 RIL6100B RIL6100Y
 Help!
GENERAL
Taps & dies
Q
I set out to change my neighbours
front coil spring on her V40 the
other day only to be defeated by a
seized solid lower balljoint pinch bolt which
caused the head to completely round off,
aided I suspect by the somewhat small
diameter of the head (15mm), an alloy hub
with a steel bolt causing electrolysis, and
possibly being a Volvo (big on safety) a lot
of thread lock. The only option now is to
drill out the threaded section of the bolt
and retap the thread, although I have just
thought about the possibility of just putting
a longer bolt with a nut in, assuming the
hub is nice and flat so the nut will bolt
down squarely – I’ll have to check that, be
great if I can just do that.
As I don’t own a terribly comprehensive
tap & die set, I’m just wondering what to
look for when buying. Are split dies better
than solid? Taps seem to come in all sorts of
variants, fine, medium and course, starter,
taper and plug.
Do I need a set that includes all of these,
and do all sets advise on the size of drill bit
to use as I think you usually need odd size
bits. I’ve seen a Sealey one but no idea if this
would cover a home mechanic’s needs, so
feel free to recommend any others that you
CHEVROLET ORLANDO
Underpowered
Q
I would like some advice about
a problem with my sons 2011
Orlando 1.8 petrol. I advised him as
the car had done 75,000 miles to have the
timing belt and water pump changed. This
he did using a local garage, however on
return the car was underpowered and the
engine management light came on.
The code displayed that the exhaust
camshaft sensor was faulty. However the
garage stated that it was the Vanos unit.
I replaced the sensor with a new quality
aftermarket unit and also the exhaust
camshaft solenoid which controls the Vanos
unit. I also replaced the oil and filter, but all
this has made no difference.
On returning to the garage that had carried
out the original belt replacement I asked
them to check the timing was correct and
68 Car Mechanics December 2023
Your non-diagnostic
vehicle-related problems
solved by Steve Rothwell
think may be better.
Also do you think the titanium-coated
HSS drill bits are vastly better than those
that aren’t? I think they’re supposed to stay
sharper for longer, but I don’t know if this
the reality. I’ve seen a Bosch non-titanium
and an Erbauer titanium, both 25-piece
both ranging up to 13mm. I actually bought
the cobalt version of the Erbauer earlier in
the year for £29 and the first time I used
one of them a chunk broke of the edge so
I’m a bit suspicious of the quality of Erbauer.
Pretty sure it’s Chinese stuff. £29 for a
25pc 5% cobalt set is probably too good to
be true though.
Anthony Pattinson
A
Hopefully the fitting will be able to
accommodate a nut and a bolt, as
this would be a good option and
save you quite a bit of work. But if you do
need to drill and tap the hole then there
are a few steps that will make things easier.
The first step is to ensure that the
centre of the old bolt is drilled accurately
using a pilot drill, ensuring that this pilot
drill goes through the very centre of the
old bolt is the recipe for success. Using a
centre punch and taking your time over
this step will pay dividends.
The quality of the drill is important,
but I never ask the drill bit to bite off
more than it may be able to chew, and
so starting with a 1.5mm pilot drill and
the exhaust camshaft wasn’t a tooth out.
They said it was correct and asked an auto
electrician to check out the fault and he said
it was the exhaust camshaft sensor at fault.
I find this strange as the sensor was
replaced. I checked the wiring to the sensor,
and all seemed OK with a healthy voltage
to the unit.
This all started after the timing belt was
changed but the garage insists the timing
is correct. Is there any way to check the
correct position of both cams without
involving a stripdown. The engine seems to
be the same unit fitted to Vauxhall Vectra’s.
Dave John
A
The instructions on the cambelt
replacement include the
warning...
Engines with variable valve timing:
Mark camshafts, camshaft sprockets,
camshaft adjusters and related camshaft
drive system components (as applicable)
with chalk or paint prior to removal
or dismantling to assist alignment on
installation. This is because even with
the locking plates in place the cam
timing can alter if not correctly set.
moving up slowly to the desired size, will
ensure that the drill bit is not overloaded
or overheated and will enable an easier
drilling. It should also be remembered
that the larger the drill the slower the
drill speed. This will help to prevent the
conditions that would cause chipping of
the drill bit. I will also emphasise again
that the first hole is important, and
care taken to ensure the first drilling is
straight and correctly placed, will ensure
the accuracy of the finished job.
With regard to Taps & Dies, a
professional tap set would have three
taps of each size, and the first would
be heavily tapered, the second slightly
tapered and the third would be straight
enabling the thread to be tapped to the
base of a blind hole.
If you are tapping through an open hole,
the first tap would be the only one needed,
followed through possibly by the second.
The split taps do also offer a little more
flexibility allowing the first cut to be
slightly lighter before tightening the tap
holder on the next cut.
I am not sure if any tap & die sets come
with the drill size chart, but the general
rule is that for a standard thread the drill
should be 85% of the tap diameter. You
can also calculate this by subtracting the
pitch of the thread from the diameter,
so an M10x1.5 bolt size would require a
8.5mm hole drilled to tap (10-1.5 = 8.5).
Knowing the exact code set would
help as many of the camshaft codes do
refer to correlation as opposed to sensor
failure, and if this is the case then I would
agree that the problem experienced
since the replacement of the timing belt
is due to an incorrect setting up of the
camshafts when the belt was replaced.
The engine in your sons Orlando is the
2HO/Z18XER engine and this is the Opel
engine which was installed in the Astra,
Zafira, Vectra and Insignia. The checking
of the timing can be done with the front
covers stripped off and the insertion of
the timing tool EN-6340.
The camshafts position can also be
checked by removing the cam cover and
using tool EN-66-A to lock the camshafts
at the rear. It would be possible to check
by eye if the two half circular indents in
the rear of the camshaft appeared to be
equally set with the engine on TDC, but
this of course would not be as accurate as
locking the camshafts using the tool.
I would agree though that the
symptoms of power loss immediately after
the timing belt change do suggest that the
camshaft timing has not been correctly set.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME
 Help!
terminals A35 and A36 on the ECU.
CHRYSLER DELTA If checking the terminals and the
resistance in the circuit does not highlight

Stop-Start function any issues, then there is a possibility that

the ECU has an internal fault, and it would
be worth sending this to be checked.
Q
Does my 2012 Chrysler Delta SE turbo 1.4 petrol
(29,000 miles) have a Stop-Start function (clutch)?
Also, can the timing belt be fitted with engine in situ?
Mervin Bickerstaff

A
If your Delta is equipped with the Stop-Start
system this will be indicated with a button below
The Stop-Start button JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE
the media centre between the foglight and ASR
Jammed
fitted on the vehicles with
buttons. Not all vehicles did have the Stop-Start system. the Stop-Start system.
If your vehicle is fitted with the Stop-Start system but
this is not working, it must be remembered that the Stop-Start system will only work
subject the criteria being fulfilled, so the engine must be up to running temperature
with no demand on the heating and ventilation system, and the battery must be
ignition switch
Q
I have a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee
fully charged to meet the demands when required to re-start the engine. 2.7 diesel automatic with 110,000
Very often using the vehicle for short journeys, the driver will not experience miles. The ignition key will only
the Stop-Start system from operating due to the criteria not being met. move between ignition and one click back,
Also, on the Delta the Stop-Start system will be inoperative after the battery so I can’t remove the key from the barrel.
has been disconnected or drained until the vehicle has been parked for at least Fortunately, I have been able to extract the
four hours and the starter motor has been operated in normal use at least once. key and barrel as a complete piece from
The Stop-Start is very dependent on a full voltage being available and even a the steering column, but even out of the
battery that appears to be up to voltage may not have sufficient capacity to allow car the key still refused to turn any further.
the system to operate. After being held in my hand for a while, it
The timing belt on your Chrysler which requires replacing every 72,000 miles or eventually turned and released the key.
five years (four under adverse conditions) can be replaced with the engine in the I cleaned the lock barrel with carb cleaner
vehicle and the job has a book time of 2.45 hours. When replacing the timing belt it and lubricated it with graphite powder.
would also be prudent to replace the water pump and tensioners at the same time. The key now works smoothly and
releases every time. However, once the key
given though, and it’s not something my and barrel are placed back into the column,
CHEVROLET CRUZE I am back to square one. I can start, stop
Autel Diaglink seems able to do. However, is

Repeated this process something you recognise? And and drive car with no problems. The spare
can advise on how to perform? key is just the same.
I removed the front piece of the centre
P228C error
Ian Geary
console and ran the shifter through all its

A
As you mention the LUD/A17D positions. The release button on the shifter

Q
Our 2013 Chevrolet Cruze 1.7 VCDi
runs well, but will from time to time
shudders and go into limp-mode.
Diagnosing with my Autel Diaglink OBD2
tool gives error code P228C-00 - fuel pressure
regulator control - low performance.
At the start of the year, the car went
engine fitted in your Chevrolet is
used in the Astra J, Zafira B and
Meriva models.
The description I have for the code
P228C is: Fuel pressure regulator 1,
control limit exceeded - fuel pressure
low. This does indicate that the problem
seems to be working and releasing OK
and I can see the tiny piston underneath
the console working when the button is
pressed. Prior to getting stuck, the key and
ignition had no problems.
Gareth Baker

into limp-mode with error P000F-00 - fuel
system overpressure – which I diagnosed/
guessed as the suction control valve (SCV),
located on the rear of the high-pressure
fuel pump. With this changed, error P000F
has not reappeared. However shortly after
replacing the SCV, error P228C started
to occur, which will reoccur somewhere
between fortnightly and monthly.
I replaced the fuel filter (which was due
anyway), and the fuel pressure sensor,
neither of which have had an effect.
Although I can reset error codes and return
the car to normal performance, this is not a
fix, and hitting limp-mode is not particularly
pleasant on the motorway. I would
therefore appreciate any thoughts on how
to diagnose this intermittent error, rather
than keep guessing (the high-pressure fuel
pump would be the next guess).
Also, although online support for this car
is quite limited (despite being an Astra J
underneath) I did hear a reference to a
learning routine that should be carried
out for a replacement SVC. No details were
would be with the fuel pressure sensor,
but as you have replaced this, then
the fault must be in another area. The
code is triggered when the engine
control module senses a low voltage
signal from the pressure sensor, which
it then translates as low pressure. But
It is possible that the problem is due
to a reduced voltage because of a poor
connection or a high resistance within
the wiring, and so for this reason I would
carefully check the multiplugs at the
sensor and the engine control module.
I would also ensure that there is no
resistance through the loom, and this
would be worth checking with a meter,
possibly manoeuvring the loom as the
check is carried out to ensure that flexing
the loom does not increase the resistance.
I do not have a wiring diagram for the
Chevrolet, but I do have one that covers
the Astra J, and if the wiring loom colours
follow the Vauxhall, then the wires
between the sensor and ECU will be Yellow
and Violet/Black, and should connect to
A
There is a release mechanism that
runs from the gear lever to the
ignition switch to prevent the key
being removed unless the gear lever is in
the ‘Park’ position. This mechanism takes
the form of a cable running from the
lever to the ignition switch. There is also
a solenoid that prevents the gear lever
release button from being depressed
unless your foot is on the brake pedal.
One common problem is that the cap
from the solenoid can become detached
and slide down the gear lever, jamming
the mechanism and preventing the cable
from fully sitting in the position required
to release the ignition. However, as you
can see the solenoid operating, this
may not be the case with your vehicle.
Another possibility is that the cable
has become detached at one end or the
other, but given that the key releases
from the barrel when the key and barrel
are removed from the steering column,
I would examine the cable mechanism
between the gear lever and steering lock.

shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME December 2023 Car Mechanics 69

Help!
HYUNDAI i30
Noise from
turbocharger
Q
I have noticed a noise coming
from turbo when accelerating
hard in my 2011 Hyundai i30 1.6
CRDi, usually when the revs are between
1500-2000rpm. It sounds like turbo has
been put under excessive load and I can
hear booming coming from engine bay.
Previously I had noticed a similar sound
when the revs were below 1500rpm, but
the dealer told me this was normal for this
engine. Does the turbo need a rebuild?
Pawel Zubrzak
A
One of the most common causes
of turbo-related noise is a failed
or failing intercooler hose, so
I would first check the hoses between
the induction system and the intercooler.
Any sign of oil contamination on either
of the hoses may well indicate a problem,
so you should check for any small splits
or weak spots. If oil is seeping out then
air may also be escaping under pressure,
which will give a very pronounced noise
such as you describe.
If there are no problems with the
intercooler hoses, I would check that
the turbo actuator rod is free to move. If
possible, use a section of hose attached
to the actuator input and suck on it to
confirm the actuator rod is moving. If it
isn’t, attempt to move it manually. If it
does move freely by hand, but not when
using the pipe, it may indicate that the
diaphragm has failed. If the rod will not
move at all, the turbo has failed and
should be replaced.
HYUNDAI i10
Clutch
clearance
Q
What is the correct clearance/free
play on the clutch pedal of my
2009 i10.1.2? I believe the clutch
cable is adjustable.
Dennis Carben
A
The clutch cable is adjustable,
and the measurements I have are
as follows:
 From the floor to the front of the
clutch pedal should be 178.1mm, and
the free play in the pedal measured at
the end should be 10-15mm.
 The adjustment nut is at the bulkhead
end of the clutch cable and the free
play in this should be 2-3mm.
70 Car Mechanics December 2023
HYUNDAI COUPÉ
Airbag sensors
Q
I have a 2008 Hyundai Coupé. A small front impact has blown both the driver
and passenger airbags and I will obviously have to replace the dashboard, but
I am wondering whether I need to replace the two sensors on the front of the
vehicle. In other words, must they be replaced once they have ‘sensed’ an impact?
Phillip Claridge
A
From the data I have on
your Hyundai the airbag
deployment is controlled by
an accelerometer in the SRS Control
Module. The Hyundai manual
states that once the airbags have
been deployed the SRS Control
Module which contains a back-up
power source for deployment when
the battery power is low must be
replaced and cannot be reused.
HYUNDAI i30
Auto-stop
function
Q
I have a couple of problems with
my 2016 Hyundai i30 1.6 diesel
with 14,000 miles.
Since I bought it, the auto-stop function
has never worked. I understand that engine
operating conditions have to be perfect
for it to operate, but even after a run from
Kent to Dorset and back it still doesn’t work.
The vehicle has been back to the dealer
under warranty, but all they reported was
that the battery was a bit low on charge. As
they had the car overnight, they recharged
it and told me the auto-stop was now
operating perfectly. Next morning when
I drove it, nothing and it has not worked
since. I suspect the battery is weak, but what
is your experience with auto-stop systems?
The other problem is throttle-related.
When pulling away, you press the throttle
pedal down and, when your foot stops, the
engine speeds up a bit more, as if there is a
lag. Also, in traffic at 1100-1200rpm, the car
sometimes starts kangarooing. If you give
it some welly, the car goes like a train, but
that’s not my style of driving.
The dealer’s fitters that have driven the
car could find no fault with it. All they could
suggest was to book a drive with one their
fitters and for me to demonstrate the fault.
Alan Bartlett
A
A weak battery would certainly
upset the operation of the Stop-
Start system – or, as Hyundai
call it, the Idle Stop & Go (ISG). Although
your battery is not particularly old, it is
difficult to know what type of service it
has had to perform in the past. With a
relatively low mileage, the vehicle may
have been subjected to long periods
of standing and this may have calcified
The SRS module contains
the accelerometer which
is used to sense impact.
the battery. To return the battery to a
serviceable state would require more
than a long run. If this is the case, a long
slow recharge would be needed.
The throttle hesitation problem may
also be related to this and is something
that the main dealer can check. If you feel
the dealer is not taking your complaint
seriously, and as this problem has been
present since you first bought the vehicle,
I would contact Hyundai customer
services on 0800 981 981. You could try
taking your vehicle to a different Hyundai
workshop, who may be able to deal with
your problem in a more effective way.
HYUNDAI iX20
Radio code
Q
I recently purchased a 2011 Hyundai
iX20. Unfortunately, although well
maintained, the car came with
no documents. I have jobs to do which
necessitate the disconnection of the battery.
My problem is that I do not know if the
radio requires a code once I reconnect the
battery. It is not mentioned in the owner’s
handbook, but I am loathed to try, just in
case I lose the use of the radio. Help please?
Phillip Claridge
A
The data from the iX20 workshop
manual states that when the
battery is disconnected the radio
stations will become initialised and will
need to be reset. It makes no mention of
entering a code and for this reason (and
because the radio is built into the dash)
I believe there is no code on your radio.
Hyundai did have a simple system of
radio codes and this was to add 1212
to the last four digits of the audio unit
serial number – so if the serial number
was S0833211, taking the last four digits
3211 and adding 1212, the radio code
would be 4423.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME

As the fuel is injected into the cylinder
in a diesel vehicle, leaks in the induction
system should not result in a weak
mixture. In fact, in a turbocharged engine,
KIA CEE’D the opposite may be found, as any leak
Help!
does not mean that they will. Both issues
though do refer to earlier versions of the
Sportage and both were rectified before
the build date of your 2019 model.
The two points they list are that a

Holding back
would prevent a full charge of air from misfire may be felt due to a problem with
being forced into the cylinder. As you do the design of the dual mass flywheel
have a turbo noise, the fault may be due to (DMF). This was later altered and was

Q
When accelerating with almost
full throttle, my 2007 Kia cee’d
1.6 CRDi seems to hang back a
little then, as I lift off to change up, there is
extra acceleration as the throttle closes. I’m
guessing that this is due to weak fuelling, but
I’ve checked for air leaks and can’t find any.
For a while, the turbo has had an audible
whine that I hear mainly in stop/start traffic.
Could this be related? I’ve removed the inlet
pipe and there’s little perceptible play in the
turbo. I’ve also considered that the EGR might
need cleaning. Fuel consumption is good.
Les Lumb
poor turbo performance. You have checked
for excess play, but I would also ensure that
the rotor spins freely as this would have an
impact on the vehicle’s performance.
Finally, Autodata says that there were
problems with automatic models, due to
an engine control module (ECM) software
fault. The remedy required an upgrade of
the software by the main dealer.
KIA SPORTAGE
Any issues?
modified in March 2018 and so should
not be applicable to your 2019 model.
The second is a vehicle hesitation, and
this was due to an engine control module
(ECM)/transmission control module (TCM)
software fault – again this issue was
rectified in February 2017. So, the good
news is there are no reported problems
arising with your intended purchase.
The Gasoline Direct Injection (GDI)
engine is a step forward in petrol
vehicle design and it does boast a
better efficiency than the normal petrol
injection vehicles, with some of the GDI
engine producing very impressive results.

A Q
You have not mentioned the
mileage of your cee’d, but there
is a possibility that the EGR valve
is clogged. The EGR valve on your cee’d
should operate via a separate vacuum
control solenoid and you should check the
hoses and the operation of the solenoid;
the location of the solenoid is at the rear
of the engine, towards the nearside. It
I am about to take delivery soon
of a 2019 Kia Sportage 1.6 petrol
T-GDi 174bhp DCT AWD – are there
any general issues with the engine or is
vehicle generally reliable? This is my first
ever Kia car but have driven the Hyundai
Tuscon equivalent engine.
Gary Forrest
The downside of this engine is carbon
build-up. Both BMW and Kia have
issued technical service bulletins which
recommend the use of ethanol-free fuel,
and also the use of fuel with detergents
(premium fuels). They also recommend a
fuel system cleaner be used occasionally
to prevent the carbon build-up.
A feature on GDI engines was

could also be the case that the intake air
flap is sticking, so it would be worth using
a cleaning spray in the induction system
to help free any carbon deposits.
A
Autodata list a couple of issues
that can occur with the Sportage.
I would say that although these
problems can occur on the Sportage this
published in the August 2019 edition of
CM and this does cover all the points with
regard to the issues with the engine.

KIA CEE'D
KIA NIRO
Oil choice
Battery charging
Q
I have been asked to service a
friend’s car and again I’m faced

Q
I have recently bought a Kia Niro self-charging hybrid. I do a very low mileage and
have found that if the battery gets too low I must take it to a dealer for charging. with too much choice regarding
This is not very convenient. Is it possible to obtain a charge lead and relevant engine oil specs and grade when trying to
info to be able to charge from home? Any advice would be very much appreciated. purchase online from major retailer. The car
Hywel Thomas is 2012 Kia cee’d 1.6 diesel, manual.
David Wilson

A
The standard 12-volt battery

A
can be charged at home using a Even Autodata gives me a wide
battery smart charger such as the choice dependant on the ambient
CTEK MXS 5.0 UK which is designed to be temperature in which the vehicle
used on hybrid vehicles. This is, though, is operated and the choices are as follows:
The CTEK MXS 5.0 UK which is suitable Up to 30°C a 0W-30 or 0W-40, from -20°C
for the standard 12-volt battery.
for charging hybrid vehicles. to 40°C a 5W-30 oil is recommended and
The hybrid battery is a separate unit
and this I suspect is the one that Kia are referring to. As your Kia is not a plug-in from -15°C to 40°C. For a temperature
hybrid, then no home lead exists as the vehicle is not designed to need charging. range -10°C and above a 15W-40 should
I would imagine it would take a long period of inactivity to depreciate the be used, the oil should be a low ash and
hybrid battery sufficiently for It to need recharging, and as the Kia does have a comply to API/ACEA CH/B4 DPF=C2, C3.
very good guarantee of seven years which states that: With this in mind, and considering the
The Lithium-Ion Polymer Battery warranty covers a minimum capacity for UK climate I would go for the 5W-30
a period is 84 months or 100,000 miles from the date of first registration, option and an oil such as the Shell Helix
whichever comes first. This warranty covers repairs needed to return the battery Ultra Professional AG 5W-30 Pure Plus
capacity to at least 70% (65% for cars shipped after 01 August 2019) of the Fully-Synthetic Engine Oil Dexos2 –
original battery capacity. Where possible, the original EV battery components will or the Comma X-Flow Type Z 5W-30
be repaired and will be returned to the vehicle. If unrepairable, the EV Battery will Fully-Synthetic Car Engine Oil would
be replaced with either a new or remanufactured Lithium-Ion Polymer Battery. be perfectly suited. My own personal
There does not appear to be a clause in this warranty which would prevent choice would be the Castrol GTX 5W-30
a claim due to lack of use and so I would be happy that provided the vehicle is RN17 Fully Synthetic Car Engine Oil.
serviced as specified by Kia that the hybrid systems battery would not require The capacity of the sump is 5.3 litres
attention for the warranty period. and the torque settings are oil filter =
35Nm ±3, sump drain bolt = 39Nm ±5.

shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME December 2023 Car Mechanics 71

Help!
Another possible problem may be
that the battery has insufficient power
to crank the engine at a satisfactory
speed to allow combustion. If the engine
SSANYONG KYRON cranking appears slow or if the battery is
soon depleted when attempting to start,
suggests incomplete combustion. This
may be due to a mixture problem or an
engine or injection timing fault. Given
the two types of smoke, one possibility
is a failing high-pressure fuel pump.
This would result in lower pressure and

Starting I would fit a new battery. would possibly allow engine oil to breach
the seals into the system, although this

problem SSANGYONG KYRON would be unusual due to the low mileage.

Finally, the problem may be due to

Q
I have a 2008 SsangYong Kyron 2.0
LD that has a starting problem. Cold
Poor starting a faulty engine temperature sensor. If
this is giving incorrect information to
the ECU, the timing and fuel mixture will

starting is impossible without using
Easy Start, and when it’s up to working
temperature, you have to crank two or
three times before it starts. Sometimes you
have to use Easy Start when it’s warm. Once
it is running it is fine, with no loss of power
and the engine running smoothly.
The car is due for it’s 110,000km service
and there are no visible leaks in the fuel
lines. I have driven this workhorse for eight
years and have it regularly serviced.
Q
My 2011 SsangYong Kyron has
covered 47,000 kilometres. Every be incorrect for a cold engine. Checking
morning I have starting problems the output of the sensor using a scanner
and have to crank the engine around 10 would be a good first move.
times. After the engine does get started, it
produces lots of blue and black smoke. I have SSANYONG ACTYON
replaced the glow plugs and fuel filter, and
even changed the fuel injectors, to no avail.
Kencho Dekar
Starting
problems
A
Although you mention you have

Q
Hans De Wet replaced the glow plugs, along I have a 2012 Ssangyong Actyon
with the fuel filter and fuel Sports A200 Xdi XVT (104kW). It had

A
The most likely cause of the poor
starting is failure of the heater/
glow plugs. I would start by
testing the heater plugs and the heater
plug timer. The timer can be checked
with a test lamp to ensure when the
ignition is turned on that the heater
plugs are being fed with a 12V supply.
If this is the case, the next move would
be to disconnect the heater plugs and,
using an ohmmeter, place one probe on
the cylinder-head and the other on the
heater plug electrode. The ohmmeter
injectors, I would recommend checking
the glow plugs are operating correctly.
As the glow plugs are new, ensuring they
have a live feed when the ignition is first
turned on will confirm they are operating.
If they are not operating, you may have a
problem with the timer unit or circuit.
Given the relatively low mileage of your
vehicle, I would hope you could discount
the possibility of poor compression and
worn bores, allowing engine oil to creep
past the piston oil control rings and into
the combustion chamber.
been going fine for a long time, then
one morning I couldn’t start it and had to
keep the starter running for it to start. After
it started, it was idling, but if I pressed on
the diesel pedal it picked up revs very slowly
and wouldn’t go past 3000rpm. Sometimes
when I press on the clutch it goes to
3800rpm. I have checked the injectors and
glow plug light stays on forever. I tried
diagnostics, but it throws up a linking error
and the engine light won’t go off.
Nardus VanStaden

should read below 6 ohms, the readings
should all be roughly the same – a high
resistance or an open circuit will indicate
a failed heater plug.
SSANGYONG RODIUS
Poor cold starting
The two colours of smoke you are
seeing normally denote different
problems. Blue smoke will generally
indicate burning oil, while black smoke
A
You have not mentioned the
mileage or service history of the
vehicle, but I would start with
the basics. Ensure the fuel filter has been
replaced and that no contamination is
present in the fuel system. Another factor
which will help diagnose the problem is
whether copious amounts of smoke were
present when it did start and, if so, what
was the colour of the smoke. The fact that

Q
I have a 2009 Ssangyong Rodius 2.7 the code reader will not communicate
diesel with 89,000 miles. I have to use with the vehicle may also indicate an ECU
Bradex Easy Start when starting up in problem. I would check the connections
the morning, after which it will run fine until on the diagnostic plug to ensure that a
the next morning, when it will need Easy Start feed and earth are present.
again. What would you advise? When you mention that the revs won’t
Yassin Elhlange go past 3000, is this while stationary?
It is common for manufacturers to limit
the speed of diesel engines when not
A
The Rodius 2.7 has a five-cylinder engine with common-rail injection and
hydraulic valve followers. As you do not mention any excess smoke when under load – this is a feature, not a fault,
starting, the problem may be that the glow plugs have failed. and is intended to prevent damage to
I would first check the feed to the glow plug circuit to ensure that the glow plugs the engine. If the limit of 3000rpm is
are being fed when first starting up. If there is no feed, the problem may be with while driving I would try temporarily
the glow plug relay. If there is a feed, then the next step would be to check the glow disconnecting the MAF sensor. If this
plugs themselves. This can be done without removing the glow plugs by using an momentarily improves performance and
ohmmeter to check the resistance of each plug. The feed wire to each plug will need starting, it is very likely faulty. Cleaning it
to be removed and then the readings can be taken by placing one probe of the meter may help, but if not it requires replacing.
on the cylinder-head and the other to the glow plug connector. A high resistance The MAF can be cleaned by using an
or open circuit will indicate a failure, as will a variation in the readings given. isopropyl alcohol on a cotton bud or by
If there are no problems with the glow plugs or glow plug circuit, then I would using a dedicated MAF or spray electric
check for either a fuel seepage from the return pipes or if fuel is flowing back cleaner. Be very gentle with the sensor
overnight and draining from the filter. wire and ensure that it has dried before
reconnecting and starting the engine.

72 Car Mechanics December 2023 shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME

 Help!

HONDA CIVIC

HONDA JAZZ Inefficient handbrake

Q
I have a 2005 Honda Civic 1.6 hatchback. I’ve recently purchased it knowing
Creaking some work will be needed, the ineffective handbrake was one of the issues.
I live on a hill, the handbrake won’t hold it on its own. The rear brakes are discs

Q
Not a question more an answer
I hope for others! Annoying
creaking from left front on a
Honda Jazz. I hit a bag of something which
fell from a delivery vehicle and it caused
the loss of the exhaust and a brake line.
Narrow squeak in more ways than one! But
could not source the creak, despite a new
droplink and track rod end bushes.
The Honda chat sites showed dealers
with the handbrake operated by a cable pulling a lever on the brake caliper.
I’ve replaced both the brake cables as one was sticking and both looked tatty.
I’ve also replaced the offside rear brake caliper as when I adjusted the handbrake
(as Mr Haynes said) the offside wheel wouldn’t lock-up as well as the nearside one.
Both of these replacements have improved matters but the brake still isn’t great. So,
two questions, is a poor handbrake on a Civic normal? And is it worth replacing the
nearside caliper and both discs and both sets of pads?
Or have I missed something obvious?
Mark Winder

spending time and effort like myself
looking for the problem.
However, fortunate as I am to have a pit,
I found deep below the front subframe at
the back, can be seen a bush below the
scuttle fascia – this seems to have been
the culprit moved by the blow from below
from the escaping van bag.
Guess what? My old friend WD40,
although it needed a couple of applications
creaking has gone!
Tom Law
A
Obtaining an efficient handbrake
on vehicles with disc brakes is
always more difficult due to the
lower surface area the brake pads normally
have over a version with brake shoes
operating within a brake drum. The Civic rear brake caliper.
The correct method to adjust and check
the brakes is to slacken the brake cable off and first ensure that both handbrake
levers on the brake calipers return fully to the off position freely. I then normally
stamp on the brake pedal to ensure the pads are correctly positioned. Then adjust
up the handbrake as per the specifications. For your Honda this is 8-9 notches.
Recheck to ensure that the levers on the calipers are fully back to the stop with
the handbrake off. The handbrake should now hopefully work to its full efficiency.

A
Many thanks for sharing this tip.
Creaks and light knocks can be
the most annoying sounds on a
vehicle, and it can be a nightmare trying
to track them down, hopefully if any
of our readers are faced with a similar
problem they can try this remedy.
I would also add that silicone lubricant
spray is also a good option when
spraying rubber bushes such as this. It
gives lasting lubrication and does not
damage the rubber bush in any way.
There is sometimes a mindset which thinks the handbrake should have limited
travel and this can impair the operation of it – the full 8-9 notches is required.
If all the above criteria is fulfilled, then it must be considered that the calipers
may be causing the lack of effort required to operate the brake efficiently.
Whilst new brake discs and pads may improve efficiency, the should only need
replacing when worn.
As you did provide your registration number I checked on the GOV.UK website and
found that your Honda has previously failed the MOT on the handbrake efficiency
and this had no doubt been rectified to MOT standards. Unfortunately this didn’t
give me the balance reading which may have pinpointed if the efficiency of the
nearside was lower, this may indicate that the cable or caliper would need replacing.

HONDA CIVIC maybe it is linkage/bushings or gearbox oil
related, however I don’t know much about
Gear selection gearboxes and selector mechanisms. I like
to diagnose as much as possible before
problem is identified as foreign objects
and/or debris in gear selection mechanism.
As you mention that pumping the clutch
does little to help ease the gearchange,

Q
My 2010 Honda Civic 1.8 EX GT,
with the six-speed gearbox has an
intermittently reluctant second
gear – when slowing down for give way
junctions, roundabouts, etc., it sometimes
refuses to let me change down into second
to enable me to keep rolling and pull away.
This usually means I have to either stop and
engage first or find third and creep away
really slowly (oh how I miss a turbodiesel’s
torque), both of which can be a pain in
heavy traffic.
There is no noise from the gearbox (at any
time), no crunching of gears, just a gear stick
that refuses to move into the second location.
Pumping the clutch doesn’t help. There also
doesn’t seem to be any correlation with the
taking it to the garage for exploratory
probing via my wallet – so am just
guessing/hoping for a relatively cheap fix!
It had a full Honda service history when
I bought it in 2019 (Swindon factory
services then Bristol Honda main dealer
after) although I am now doing my own oil
and filters and using my local garage for
anything I don’t want to do.
Apart from the lack of torque, compared
to my previous 2001 Octavia TDI, and the
bone jarring ride (why, oh why, did I pick
one with 17in wheels?), I really like the car
so would like to smooth out a little bit of
the driving experience.
David Boyd
then I would suspect the problem to be
more of an external fault such as this, as
opposed to a synchro hub, which would
have eased by pumping the clutch.
The gearbox oil should be changed at
75,000 miles or 8 years and if this has not
been done then it would be advisable to
do so now. The oil used is Honda MTF-II
and the capacity is 1.6 litres. Although
this may not be the source of the problem,
it would be good to eliminate the oil
quality as a contributing factor. It would
also be a good opportunity to check the
old oil for any signs of silvering or debris
which may indicate worn synchro hubs.
As Autodata do mention that external
gear selector problems are quite likely,

car being hot or cold. Otherwise, the gear
changes seem OK and no better or worse
than any other cars I have driven. Any ideas?
My initial thought was it was some sort
of overspeed protection, but it does it at
even slow speeds. Now my thoughts are
A
Autodata do mention one
common problem on your vehicle
with regard to gear selection –
this is not specifically second gear but
mentions gears difficult to engage, and
poor gear selection. The source of the
I would start by checking the area around
the gearbox selector and then check the
internal selector mechanism under the
gear lever. It may be the case that this is
a relatively minor problem and can be
resolved without major overhaul.

shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME December 2023 Car Mechanics 73

Help!
As you are encountering the problem would be much appreciated.
on a regular basis, I would raise the Robin Boon
matter with your dealer as it may be

A
MAZDA MX5 more than just a sticking pad and it Your Mazda2 and the Ford Fiesta
would be wise to get any inherent fault are built on the same platform

Sticking rectified before it develops. and the wiring is similar but

there may be slight differences. As

handbrake
the central locking works to unlock
MAZDA2 the vehicle, this confirms that the

Central locking
transmitter is working, but this may

Q
I have encountered a problem only be the unlock button. A device is
with my 2018 Mazda MX-5 RF available to check the signal from the

2.0. Whenever I leave the vehicle
overnight and the weather is damp, the
handbrake sticks and doesn’t release until
I drive away. It then releases with a thud.
I've had cars with rear disc brakes before
and not encountered this problem. Do you
think there is anything I can do – I assume
it’s the pads rusting to the disc?
James Robbins
Q
I hope you can help me out with
this one please. I have a 2002
Mazda2 with the 1.25-litre engine.
The central locking works to unlock the car
remotely from the key fob but does not
work to lock it. I changed the fob battery
just as a precaution.
Locking/unlocking using the key in
the driver’s door is fine. When unlocking
you only have to turn the key a tiny bit
remote and this may be worth testing.
The Sealey VS921 is available for around
£30, or a local garage/auto locksmith
may be able to do this for you.
As the central locking is working via
the key this confirms that the system
is operating. Providing the remote is
sending out a signal on both lock and
unlock, the first area I would check is the
wiring between the door and the vehicle

A
It can be a characteristic of certain
brake pads that if the handbrake
is applied whilst the brakes are
hot that the resins in the pads can cause
them to stick to the discs meaning that
there will be a thud as the pads release.
This was something which was more
common on vehicles with brake shoes as
the larger surface area meant there was
more to adhere.
MAZDA MX5
clockwise beyond the 12 o’clock position
and it unlocks. I put this down to wear. You
have to turn it a lot farther anti-clockwise
to lock it. I don’t have a wiring diagram
to check if there is power to the solenoid
when remote locking is deployed.
Would it be similar to the same age Ford
Fiesta on which the car is based? I do have
the Haynes manual diagram for this model.
This one has me baffled. Your advice
body. A break in the circuit at this point is
quite common and may cause the signal
to not be sent from the central module.
If the wiring does appear to be in
good order I would first try to reset the
central locking system. Unfortunately,
I have conflicting information on this, as
Autodata states that it is only possible
using diagnostic equipment. I have
however found two different methods
which should reset the remote.
The first method is as follows:
 With the vehicle unlocked close the

ABS problem driver’s door and then open the

driver’s door. Within ten seconds insert
the key into the ignition and turn the

Q
We have a problem with the ABS light on our 2002 Mazda MX-5 1.6 NB. This
ignition on and off twice (do not go
started a few months ago – switch off and back on and almost every time it
to the start position), leave the key in
would go out. It has come on when driving but very rarely.
the ignition and push the driver’s side
I plugged in my tester and got no fault codes registered. I then went to my local garage,
interior light switch (on the B-pillar)
not a Mazda dealership. They got the same no fault codes message. I check around
three times. The door locks should
visually and found a broken earth lead near the rear axle, but this did not fix things.
operate to confirm that you are in
After a while things started to work normally, until recently and the same problem
program mode.
has arisen. I have checked the resistance of the wheel sensors and they are even but
 Then press and hold any button on
different front and back. I think this is OK?
the remote, and the door locks should
There is an ABS control unit under the driver’s side dash – not very good to get at and
operate to confirm the programming
more than one unit up there. Do you think this could be the problem?
has been completed. Release the
William Atkiknson
remote button, and repeat the process
for any other remote fob.

A
I would normally expect that all four sensors
would give the same readings, but from the The second method I have is as follows:
details I have on your Mazda this would not  Ensure all doors are closed and the
be the case as the rear sensors detect from a magnetic key is not in the ignition. Open the
pick up in the hub bearing, whilst the front ABS sensors driver’s door and within 24 seconds
take the reading from a metal reluctor ring. turn the ignition on and off three
It is these reluctor rings at the front, which are most times (do not go to the start position).
likely to be the source of the problem. Any fault within Close and open the driver’s door three
the ABS control unit, would be more likely to throw out The ABS reluctor ring may have times; the locks should then operate,
corroded causing the problems. locking and unlocking.
a code which would remain in place.
As the ABS light was easily extinguished by turning off and on again, effectively  Press either button on the remote fob
resetting the system, and as the problem has got progressively worse, I suspect twice; doors should lock and unlock.
that the problem is with corrosion on one or both of the front reluctor rings. This Then press either button on the
can effectively distort the pulse at the sensor and will trigger the ABS light. When second fob twice; again doors should
the system is turned off and reset then until the speed of the vehicle reaches the lock and unlock.
point where the signal becomes distorted, the ABS light will remain off. As you can see both processes are quite
The remedy may be to simply clean the reluctor rings and remove any excess similar, as opening and closing the door
rust which may have built up blocking the castellation of the rings. In extreme will operate the interior light. I would
circumstances new rings may be needed and these are available to purchase from also recommend ensuring the driver’s
companies such as this one https://bit.ly/CMffRrs window is open as a safety measure
before carrying out the procedures.

74 Car Mechanics December 2023 shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME


NISSAN NOTE
Rattles and
vibration
Q
My wife has a problem with her
2014 Nissan Note. It is a lovely
motor, but she seems to have a
problem with rattles and vibration from the
dashboard. I would be grateful if you could
help in anyway? The problem appears to
be more noticeable on the driver’s side and
some days this is worse than others.
It has been suggested to take the pollen
filter out and then turn the fan on to blow
the leaves out, but the noise sounds more
like a cable under the dashboard. Apart
from this we are very happy with it.
J Lawley
A
I would first say that I would
doubt that the pollen filter
would be full of leaves, but if
the filter hasn’t been changed then it
would probably be due for replacement
anyway, and so no harm would be
done by changing it. The cabin filter is
accessed from the passenger footwell
and is located in the heater unit below
the centre of the dash.
Rattles from below the dash are
awkward to locate as there are so
many parts and components that can
move against each other. The reason I
believe the noise is worse on some days,
than on others, is probably due to the
temperature, as this does have an effect. It
is only by methodically checking each area
that you may expose the source of the
problem. One cause that can sometimes
be easier to alleviate are the squeaks
that can arise from below the dash.
Using a silicone spray lubricant when
refitting the sections can sometimes
allow the rubbing parts to glide across
each other and sit into position better.
Not relevant to your case as the noise
is coming from under the dash, but
Autodata inform me that the E12 Nissan
Note did have a noise problem due to
the anti-roll bar bushes – these were
modified to part number 54613 3WC0B.
NISSAN ALMERA
Lazy starter
Q
My 2004 Nissan Almera 1.5 petrol
is lazy to start. It will turn over very,
very briefly – like a car with a tired
battery – make no sound for a few seconds,
then suddenly power into life. I stalled it
the other day and it was reluctant to start
afterwards. My first thought was battery or
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME
NISSAN PULSAR
Displayed fault
Q
I own 2016 Nissan Pulsar 1.5 dCi and getting an intermittent fault showing on
the display. I know what the fault is but because of the cost of a diagnostic check
I am reluctant to do this. I have cleaned all four cameras to no avail. They are
blind spot and lane departure symbols. I could take the easy route and just turn them off.
What do you think? I enclose a snapshot of the display. Hope you can help, thanks.
George Clark
A
The first check when the lane
departure system has a problem is
to do as you have done and clean
the cameras. This is the most common cause
of the problem. When, as in your case, this
does not rectify the problem, the next
step is to have the system recalibrated and
checked. As you mention this is not a cheap
process but there is little else that can be
done to determine the source.
starter motor, however the seller told me the
starter is only a year old, from when he tried
to resolve the same problem but couldn’t.
My next target was the battery – it is a 40Ah,
340CCA battery and those figures check out
against batteries listed for the car. I’ve had it
on a meter and it shows 12.55V at rest. I’ve
also load-tested it and that checks out.
Is there anything else that could be
causing this problem? My only thought
now is that there’s a bad connection
somewhere, although I would thought this
would cause intermittent non-starts, etc.
Chris Button
A
Having already ensured the
battery is not failing and can
supply the necessary sustained
amperage for starting, the next check
I would make is that the starter is not
drawing too much current. Even though
it appears to be good, it’s worth testing it.
Having eliminated the two main
components – battery and starter –
I would inspect the earth connections
between the battery and body and the
body and engine. Fitting another earth
lead if required from the engine to the
body may help. I would also check the
main lead to the starter, to ensure it has
no resistance and is not preventing a
good flow of current to the starter.
If no problems can be found with the
operating mechanics for the starter, then
the problem may be due to the ignition
timing, which may be too far advanced.
This produces a spark before the piston
reaches TDC, so instead of firing the engine
to life, acts against the starter. This may
be due to a faulty knock sensor or even
a failed camshaft or crankshaft sender.
Your Nissan uses a timing chain to
drive the camshafts and, as this seems
to be a long-term problem that the
previous owner could not rectify, it may
be worth ensuring that the valve timing
has not jumped.
Help!
The readers photo showing the displayed fault.
NISSAN XTRAIL
Wheel fitment
Q
I have been given a 2006 Nissan
X-Trail with 17in wheels. The
trouble is that the Nissan looks
so old-fashioned. I live in a rural area
and would prefer a tougher look. Is
the stud pattern the same as any other
manufacturers – would other Nissan wheels
fit? Do you think the 16in wheels would be
sensible with off road tyres?
If you could tell me what vehicles have
the same wheel nut spacing.
L Halton
A
The 2006 Nissan X-Trail had
a few variation on wheel and
tyre sizes and whilst some had
the 215/60-17 tyres fitted to a 6.5 or 7J
x17in rims other had 215/65-16 tyres
fitted to a 6.5J 16in rim.
Both of these rims had a PDC (bolt
pattern) of 5 x 114.3 and both had a rim
offset of ET40. These are the important
factors you will need to check for when
changing the wheels. The PDC has to be 5
x 114.3 and the rim offset should ideally
be as close to ET40 as possible, a slight
variation is acceptable. The centre bore
of the wheel also needs to be correct and
this is 66.1mm on your Nissan.
The other point to consider is that
changing the wheels will alter the ratios
and the speedometer may then be out. The
change from 215/60-17 tyres to 216/65-16
tyres would only make a very slight
difference and would be within tolerances.
The list of vehicle that use the PCD 5
x 114.3 is too extensive to fully list with
60 Nissan vehicles, 50 Honda vehicles, 49
Mitsubishi vehicles and the list goes on.
From the listings it does appear that
most Nissan X-Trail vehicles from 2001-
2017 have the same size as yours and so
should be compatible.
December 2023 Car Mechanics 75
Help!
MR2 is 10.4 litres. It also has the cooling
pipes running from the engine to the
radiator which is still positioned in the
front, and the interior heater matrix.
TOYOTA MR2 You should find that under the bonnet
you will have both a drain tap on the
Cooling system radiator, and a bleed screw, and also the
heater system should be fitted with a
bleeding bleed screw above the heater pipes.
Once the old coolant has been drained
then the heater system, should ensure
that the system is fully bled through.
After tightening up the two bleed screws
at the front, the heater should be set to
maximum, and with the filler cap still off
the engine should be run up until it begins
to warm and then the engine speed
should be increased to around 1500rpm.
Holding the engine at this speed until
the heater warms up, should ensure

Q
Could you assist with how to
change the coolant on my 2005
facelift Toyota MR2 1.8, as being
mid-engine, I think it’s probably different to
a front engine car?
James Robbins
down, the bleed screws should be
released before securing the drain plug
in the radiator, and this should allow the
last of the old coolant to escape.
If the coolant being used is a
concentrate. It does help to pre-mix it
before refilling the system. The slightly
that any air left in the system has been
purged. Allowing the engine to idle again
after around ten minutes, then switching
off, the coolant level should be checked
before replacing the pressure cap.
I have seen videos recommending that
the rear of the vehicle be jacked up to

A
One of the main differences
between your MR2 and a vehicle
with the engine in the front is the
cooling system capacity which on your
diluted coolant will flow more easily assist in the bleeding process, but as the
around the system. Filling the coolant air should exit from the bleed points at
slowly and allowing the air to escape the front, as well as from the rear, I have
from the bleed screw on the radiator never found this necessary.

TOYOTA PRIUS

Prius problems
Q
I have now replaced my 2006 Prius for a 2015 ‘Prius 10’ anniversary model from a Toyota dealership. There was a Toyota two-
year interest-free offer at the time and the low mileage and two years warranty deal was too good to miss, so I have no regrets
about not going for a cheaper import.
I was informed by the salesman that this anniversary model was owned by the dealership manager prior to a local female purchaser
covering only a little more than 15,000 miles and surprisingly is fitted with run-flat tyres – even though there is a jack and spare wheel.
Perhaps the lady purchaser may have had them fitted due to her fear of not being able to fit the spare in case of a puncture or perhaps
it was simply a preference of the manager himself as I have never seen any other Prius with run-flat tyres. Consequently, the ride is
significantly firmer than my last Prius and I will be changing the tyres back to normal – would I be allowed to change the front two only
as they will wear out first or must I change all four?
There are a couple of cosmetic issues. Firstly, the rear door foot protectors are now looking ugly (see pictures) and I would appreciate
your advice on how best to remove the adhesive plastic pieces without risking damage to the paintwork. I am thinking of waiting for
a hot day and blowing some hot air from a hair dryer on the plastic and using a plastic scraper to take them off. Do you know of any
other method or solvent I could use?
The other issue is the wheel centre discs with ‘PRIUS 10’ printed on. The dealer was unable to supply a replacement for a missing
centre cap as they are not now available from Toyota, so they ordered a non-matching chrome effect one (see attachment).
I am planning to obtain the later ones with a black background as they will blend well with the black painted 17in wheels. I am
hoping that the black background centre caps from the latest Prius model or the Auris will fit as they appear to use the 17in wheels.
Despite having a roof-mounted aerial there appears to be another one within the rear offside quarter light glass. You may just be
able to see it in the attached photo and can you confirm if this is another aerial?
Alan Forshaw

A
As long as the two tyres per axle match, then you can change
just the front tyres and leave the rear tyres until they are due
for replacement. The run-flat tyres do give a firmer ride and
are also a heavier tyre. With a spare wheel in the vehicle there would
be no need to retain the run-flat tyres.
Removing the plastic paint protection film is best done with the
assistance of heat, and a hot day will make things easier. The two
tools of choice in removal are either a hair dryer or a steamer. Do not
try a hot air gun as these do get too hot and would scorch the paint. The readers photos
Working from the lower edge which is normally easier to access, the showing the centre
caps, the protective
film should be warmed and pulled gently continuing to warm as you
film and the aerial in
go to ensure it comes away in one piece. If the film should tear during the side window.
removal the task will be much harder.
A solvent can be used to soften the adhesive but once the film is
removed the residue should polish away with a light compound.
Once the film has been removed you will of course lose the stone
chip protection and may wish to consider fitting a new film to the
bodywork. This is not as easily fitted as removed though and may
need professionally fitting.
The black centre cap should be part number 52170 A550 and from
the details I have this will fit the 16in, 17in and 18in wheels.
The aerial you can see in the side window is the DAB aerial. Although some DAB aerials are built into the roof unit, not all
were and a separate aerial in the side window, as on yours were used.

76 Car Mechanics December 2023 shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME

 Help!

TOYOTA PRIUS Have a

problem vehicle?
CAT guard GET IN TOUCH...
Q
I’m a regular subscriber to the mag which I enjoy each month. I’ve just got a
2006 T3 Prius with 144,000 miles and FSH by Toyota – a new hybrid battery If you have a problem vehicle,
cost £1238 plus £830 labour (139k) fitted by Toyota dealer, so that was the Car Mechanics has the answer in
big attraction, plus a fuel saver. Even new, it has only one years guarantee but should the shape of our technical editor
STEVE ROTHWELL. Contact Steve,
be good for another 100k plus. Is that a fair number in mileage to expect 100k with as detailed below, for FREE advice
regular use by my other half? on all car-related problems. Please
I live in rural area and occasionally must park on main road overnight. My mate help Steve to help you by giving as
suggested to fit a cat guard as soon as possible and the recent article by Editor much information on the symptoms
confirms this is a big issue. I’ve looked on eBay but unsure as to what type is really as you can – including the VEHICLE
required. Obviously start with 3mm steel and prices vary a lot. All advice is welcomed REGISTRATION NUMBER.
and imagine access to a ramp is best and safest method of fitting. As Help! is a free service, some
Look forward to a reply. complex questions may require more
time and resources than we can
Ant reasonably allow – when this is the
case we will let you know.

A
Access to a ramp is certainly Steve will reply to all queries as
The CATLOC
the best method to fitting quickly as possible, but please allow
catalytic converter
the CAT guard, even though protection system. up to 28 days for a reply. Difficult/
those who steal them can carry out complex questions or those requiring
the work in minutes (around four research may take a little longer –
apparently) with a single trolley jack. please be patient.
Toyota do offer free catalytic Neither Kelsey Publishing nor Steve
converter marking but to be fair I am Rothwell can accept any liability for
loss, damage or injury resulting from
not sure this would prevent the theft. replies to readers’ queries.
There are a few variants, and
To access the listed web addresses
the main task is to ensure that the starting with http://bit.ly just type
cat cannot be quickly and easily these into your browser address line,
removed, some use wire cables to entwine the unit, and others are literally a rather than the search engine and they
large shield, to prevent easy access. The problem with the shield is that the should work as intended.
catalytic convertor does get hot and should really have a good airflow to prevent
overheating. This may be impaired by a poorly designed shield, and so the
cheaper versions may not be the best option.
 E-MAIL:
carmechanicshelp@yahoo.co.uk
It should also be noted that if the advert says easily fitted, then it may also be Please include your postal address
easily removed, and so shear bolts or locking bolts are essential.
The CATLOC 1049 is a product which attaches to the catalytic convertor and is
then connected to the body via a heavy chain connection. This is available from
 WRITE (enclosing a SAE):
HELP! QUERIES, CAR MECHANICS
your Toyota dealer part number GBNGA-CATLO-C7 and comes complete with a
KELSEY MEDIA, THE GRANARY,
registration kit and window warning stickers.
DOWNS COURT, YALDING HILL,
I suspect that widow stickers may be enough deterrent, but if the car is in an
YALDING, KENT ME18 6AL
isolated position, it would be a good idea to ensure that the removal of the cat is
made as difficult as possible.

Mercedes brake reset

TOYOTA RAV4
Turbo boost
Q
I have been having problems
with my 2004 Toyota RAV4 2.0
diesel with the P1251 fault code.
I was advised to change the turbo boost
solenoid which didn’t work, then the turbo,
which didn’t cure the over-boost problem
either and wondered if you had published
a diagnostics article in your magazine
sometime in the past?
The symptoms are, when you rev more
than 2200rpm it goes into limp-mode due
to over boost? Any ideas?
Graham Mileham
A
We did cover the RAV4 diesel
in a servicing feature in the
November 2017 issue (p68-72),
but have not done a diagnostic feature
on it. The code P1251 does as you have
mentioned indicate an over-boost
situation. The first check should be the
boost pressure sensor, as if this is giving
an incorrect reading, then this will put
the engine into limp-mode, and may be
causing the issue.
Having already replaced the turbo
along with the solenoid, this should
confirm that the issue of sticky veins in
the turbo is not the source of the problem.
If the sensor is reading correctly and
the over boost reading is correct, then this
can be caused by a blockage in either the
intercooler hoses or the exhaust system.
It is also possible that the situation can be
caused by a leak in the induction system,
as the translation indicates: engine boost
condition – limit exceeded, and whilst
this is often due to an over-boost, it can
show that the boost limit is reached due
to an escape of boost pressure.
One other point that is worth checking
is to ensure that the engine wiring loom
is in good order – a frayed or chaffed wire
could also be the source of the problem.
 In the last issue, under Help! Mercedes-
Benz C-Class (p91), Steve said: The method of
resetting should be the same procedure as
the previous version but the steering wheel
controls have now changed. Unfortunately,
at the moment the details have not been
updated for the new steering wheel.
Hopefully these details will update soon.
These details are now available:
This guidance is based on a RHD car.
1) Get in car and close the door
2) Without touching the brake pedal, press
the ignition button once to get the car
in Accessory position (not twice as that
turns the ignition on).
3) Ensure that the dash is showing the
mileage, if not using controls on steering
wheel to get to the correct screen.
4) Using the controls on the right of the
steering wheel, press the right most
button (the Back button, not Home
button) and hold it for a couple of
seconds and the various app options
will show above the mileage. While still
holding the Back button, press the black
OK button next to it and you will be
presented with the Workshop menu.

shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME December 2023 Car Mechanics 77

 Diagnostics Doctor
Steve Rothwell answering your ENGINE MANAGEMENT queries

FORD SMAX The MAF sensor may be at

the heart of the problem.

Bogging down
Q
My friend has a 2010 Ford S-MAX 2.0 diesel bought a couple of years ago. When
he first got the vehicle, it had a loud turbo whistle which I quickly Identified as a
bad intercooler (it had a hole in it). Now fixed.
Now on occasions it seems to bog down when under hard acceleration and then when
he changes down a big puff of black smoke is emitted, then off it goes again all fine.
Once whilst on holiday it left him stranded as wouldn’t gain any power, wouldn’t even rev
properly at standstill.
I have looked at the entire intake system from filter to turbo then to intercooler and
inlet manifold, etc., the only fault I found was where the air pipe attaches to the turbo the two bolts were NOT tight and there was a little
oil around the area. However, it did improve the problem for a while.
My question is – is the turbo seal perished and would that cause this issue. It’s a nightmare to do as one bolt is hidden and getting a
tool on it is a pain but if I need to do it I will.
Karl Funnell

A
The black smoke is normally an indication of a mixture imbalance, and this could be due to a number of factors. The lack
of power or bogging down at the same time does sound as though they are connected to the problem. The two main
areas that should be checked are the MAF sensor and the EGR valve.
Starting with the MAF sensor this may have become contaminated from the earlier issue with the intercooler failure, and it
could be the case that oil has worked its way around the induction system and ended up coating the hot wire sensor. This will
prevent the MAF sensor from reading correctly and could give the symptoms your friend has on their S-MAX.
Cleaning the sensor using an isopropyl alcohol or dedicated MAF cleaning spray may help with the issue. It is important to
not make contact with the hot wire sensor with anything other than the cleaning fluid, and to ensure that the cleaning fluid has
completely dried before refitting the unit and starting the engine.
If this does not help in remedying the issue, then it may be that the EGR valve is not responding quickly enough and upsetting
the air induction during the acceleration. Again, this may be remedied by cleaning using a suitable cleaner.
As you have not mentioned the presence of an engine management light, then I would presume that no codes are present, but
if the EML has appeared, then it would be good to get the codes read as this may assist with the location of the problem.
The black smoke may also be due to an injector issue, and if after carrying out the previous actions no resolution is found,
then a leak-off test on the injectors may help to identify a dribbling or faulty injector that may be contributing to the problem.
As this is black smoke then it would be a mixture related issue, and not the turbo seals which would give a blue smoke as a
result of the burning oil. It would also normally be the case that if the turbo seals had failed then the oil loss and smoke would
normally occur across the range.

The EGR valve on

MERCEDESBENZ CCLASS the Mercedes C160.

EGR flow low

Q
The vehicle in question is a 2017 Mercedes-Benz C160 with 54,000 miles
belonging to a friend. The car is displaying the EML and my diagnostics kit
reports that the EGR flow is low.
The receipts in the glovebox indicate that this car had this same fault three years
ago and the Mercedes dealer diagnosed a blocked EGR filter screen. The labour
element was relatively light, suggesting easy access, but I don’t
know the exact location of this filter screen. To keep the cost
down, I want to check this first before contacting the dealer.
Do you have a diagram of the EGR circuit you could share
with me? Many thanks in anticipation.
Tim Baker

A
The OM626 engine in your Mercedes is part of
the R Type family of four-cylinder turbocharged
diesel engines developed in conjunction with
Nissan and Renault. The EGR valve is electrically-operated
and despite all my checks I cannot find a filter screen on the
EGR system. I have looked at the EGR valve used, and this is a
bolt-on unit with the valve electrically-operated.
I would hope that removing the EGR valve would reveal any such screen, but I can find nothing matching this description in the
manual I have. I would as a first step remove and clean the EGR valve.

78 Car Mechanics December 2023 shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME

 Diagnostics Doctor

HYUNDAI ix20 The Foxwell NT680 Lite owned by

the reader to scan his Hyundai.

EML light
Q A
I own a 2014 Hyundai ix20 1.6 automatic
with 37,000 miles on the clock. I bought
the car approximately a year and a half ago
and all was fine until the EML light came on. I have
a Foxwell NT680 Lite.
The code P0707 showed up – apparently its
transmission range sensor circuit has low voltage
input. I went on numerous forums and all I tried
was unplugging the connector on top of the gearbox
which I think was the selector mechanism and sprayed
electrical cleaner into the electrical connector. This
seemed to fix it but after about two months it’s reared
its ugly head again.
I didn’t mention before that after about six months
of ownership the same code would keep appearing, so
I just kept clearing it. I’m now getting fed up with it and
would like to know if you can suggest anything to cure this?
There was an issue with the throttle position sensor which I got
fixed by the local garage – they said I needed a new accelerator
pedal which was OE at only £480! Fixed now. One more issue is it
has a sticking fuel tank sender unit – anything more than 25 litres
put in on an empty tank and it freezes. I did read a suggestion that
hitting the floor above the sender will dislodge it which I do with a
rubber mallet when I know the petrol level is low – that works but
I’d rather have it work properly.
I’ve looked on YouTube how to get the sender out. Is it a very
hard job in your estimation and where would be the best place to
purchase a new one please.
I’ve been a reader of this magazine for many years and never
asked for help here before. You do seem to have a lot of knowledge
and experience so here’s hoping you can help.
Jim Cooke
The code P0707 is, as you have
discovered, related to a Transmission
range sensor and is indicating it has a
low input. One of the most likely reasons for
this is that the wiring to the sensor or internally
in the sensor has a short to earth. As this fault
has been rectified temporarily, when the plug
has been disturbed, it may be the case that the
wiring loom at some point is the issue, and the
disturbance of the loom is sufficient to rectify the
issue in the short term.
With this in mind I would carefully check the wiring
loom and ensure that no section has been chaffed and
if no outward signs are visible, then I would consider
carrying out a continuity test using an ohm meter.
Any resistance in the circuit would be indicating a
possible fracture that could be the source of the issue.
The problem may also be as mentioned the range sensor
itself, which is used to determine the transmission speed to
allow the control unit to correctly calculate the required gear,
but I would not expect this to be cured by the disconnecting
and reconnecting process, and so for this reason I do suspect
that the issue will be with the loom.
The fuel tank sender is a relatively easy job and the time
given for removing and refitting is 0.5 hours, so not a bad task.
It may be worth removing and checking the old one before
purchasing a replacement as if the sticking is remedied by a
good thump, it may be the case that a slight adjustment to the
float position may fix the issue. A quick search has revealed
that at this time none of the factors appear to stock the sender
unit, and this is possibly due to the reliability of the parts, and
so this would need to be obtained from a Hyundai dealer.

NISSAN NOTE

MOT failure
Q
Our 2016 Nissan Note 1.2 has failed the MOT on exhaust Lambda reading.
First reading was 1.461, second 2.049. It passed the CO and HC side of the
test. This is our first petrol car in years, so not sure where to start.
Apparently, our Nissan has two sensors. Is it a matter of buying a fault code reader,
and changing both sensors if the relevant codes are flagged up – or is it more involved?
Also, are the sensors a DIY at home job? Lastly, should the car not be driven till fixed in case
of further damage? Thanks again for your advice.
Roger Kretzschmar The EVAP purge valve may the
source of the unwanted added air.

A
The Lambda reading is giving the analysis of the exiting exhaust gasses, and the ideal
reading should be 1 – this would indicate a perfect mixture of air and fuel at a ratio of 14.7:1, which then allows the
best possible burn rate of the mixture in the cylinder.
The Lambda reading is taken from the tailpipe during the MOT and a high reading indicates a weak mixture, a low reading
would indicate a rich mixture, so the high reading you have is indicating an excess of air in the system. As the HC and CO
readings have passed the test, this would have no relation to a problem with the actual Lambda sensor (O2) fitted in the
exhaust either side of the catalytic convertor, and this can often be confusing. The HC (hydrocarbons) show any unburnt gasses
and the CO (Carbon Monoxide) is a by-product of an incomplete combustion.
The most likely reason for the high reading you have is either a leak of air into the exhaust system or into the inlet manifold area.
The vehicle should not be driven now it has failed the MOT as it is considered unroadworthy. Given that the second reading
was even higher than the first I would suspect that this is a leak in the exhaust system at some point. This should be checked
and you may be surprised at the effect a seemingly small leak will have on the Lambda reading.
If you can be 100% confident that the exhaust is leak free, then the next step would be to check the induction system for
any leaks. One area that is worth checking is the EVAP purge valve – this is located at the rear centre of the engine bay on the
bulkhead, and if stuck open will allow unmetered air into the system, weakening the mixture which can result in the high
Lambda reading you have.
As you do not have a EML illuminated, I would not suspect any codes will be in the system and so a basic code reader would
give you little information on the problem.

shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME December 2023 Car Mechanics 79

 Diagnostics Doctor
Diagnostics Doctor

CONTINUED Diagnostics Doctor

Diagnostics Doctor is a FREE helpline
service for CM readers – including
SEAT ALTEA trade readers – who are struggling
with diagnostic/engine management

Cutting out related faults. Steve Rothwell will

answer all your queries. He will need
as much detail as possible: MAKE,

Q
My 2011 SEAT Altea 1.6 TDI
suddenly cut out with no warning. MODEL, YEAR, ENGINE CODE and
It would just turn over and not fire up. NUMBERPLATE of your vehicle – and
After getting it recovered home have found out that the type of management system
installed. Obviously, Steve will not be
there is no 12-volt supply to the in-tank fuel pump.
able to assess the vehicle up close, so
Despite looking high and low and checking all fuses
his answer will be on the basis solely of
and relays I can’t find where the pump gets its power – so in
The fault may be a your description. This is a FREE service
desperation, I have run a feed from the auxiliary socket to the defective fuel pump and it may take some time to respond
pump positive. This means at least I can use the car to get to relay and this would be to certain problems. If you would like
the shops as I unplug the supply when stopped. Any ideas worth checking first. to receive a personal response via post,
how to find out where the problem is? please enclose an SAE.
Steve Tasker e-mail:
cmdiagnostics@yahoo.co.uk

A
The most likely scenario is that the fuel pump relay, which is located Write to:
within the interior relay box, located to the right of the steering wheel DIAGNOSTICS DOCTOR
behind the dash, has failed. This relay is marked as number 4 and is the CAR MECHANICS,
centre relay of the lower three. KELSEY MEDIA
If the relay itself is operating, then fuse number 33 in the underbonnet fusebox THE GRANARY,
should be checked along with fuse number 4 in the interior fusebox. DOWNS COURT
If the fuses and relays are in good order, then the next consideration would be YALDING HILL,
to check the wiring from the pump forward, although the most likely scenario YALDING, KENT
given the conditions of the failure would be the relay. ME18 6AL

VAUXHALL ASTRA Common abbreviations

Racing when cold ATS Air Temperature Sensor

AFM Air-Flow Meter – not a MAF type
(see below). It could be, for example,

Q
My 2005 Astra 1.4 has a weird issue that has my garage stumped. a vane type
Basically on start-up it starts revving like mad with the needle on the rev counter CAS Crank Angle Sensor
dancing all over the place without my foot being anywhere near the accelerator CPS Crank Position Sensor
pedal – then it almost chokes before settling down and being totally normal.
CTS Coolant Temperature Sensor
But if you put your foot on the brake (automatic car) you can feel that the brake pedal is
ECT Engine Coolant Temperature
solid with no give during the time it is revving, and if you put the car in gear with your foot
ECM Electronic Control Module
on the brake the car starts moving even with the brake on.
It only goes a couple of feet before the brake kicks in, but it is very odd. There’s also a ECU Electronic Control Unit
big petrol smell for the brief period that the revving goes on. After around 90 seconds all is EGR Exhaust Gas Recirculation – meters
exhaust gas back to the intake manifold
normal and the car runs and drives fine. All very weird.
EML Engine Management Light
Matt Cole
EMS Engine Management System
EPC Electronic Power Control

A
My first thought on the matter given that the brake pedal feels hard during
the high revving and poor running, is that this issue relates to an induction FCR Fault Code Reader
leak, and this is allowing unmetered air to enter the induction system. When HT High Tension – ignition output to the
spark plugs
this occurs the O2 sensor will read a very weak mixture and the result of this will be an
IAV Idle Air Valve
enrichment of the fuel to compensate. This may be giving the petrol smell that can be
detected during the problem. ISCV Idle Speed Control Valve –
usually operated by a motor controlled
With this in mind the first point to check would be the EVAP valve. This is located by the ECU
on the bulkhead at the rear of the engine bay, and by simply blocking this off for test LOS Limited Operating Strategy – if the
purposes, this can then be confirmed or eliminated. If this is not the issue, then the ECU detects a malfunction, it runs a
programme to allow the car to still go,
EGR valve would be the next most likely reason for the problem. This is located at the but at reduced efficiency
end of the cylinder-head above the gearbox, and again this could be disconnected
MAF Mass Air-Flow meter
and blocked off for test purposes.
MAP Manifold Air Pressure
As the vehicle has been to a garage, I am presuming they have used diagnostic
MIL Malfunction Indicator Lamp
equipment to check the live data to eliminate the possible failure of the coolant or air
intake sensor, and providing this has been done, the one other possible source of the PCV Positive Crankcase Ventilation – takes
crankcase gases and recycles back to
issue may be that the MAF sensor has failed. It is quite common for a failed MAF sensor the inlet system
to not flag up a fault code. This can be tested by simply disconnecting the feed plug to TBPS Turbo Boost Pressure Sensor – used by
the MAF sensor, whilst this will flag up a fault code due to the open circuit, it will allow the ECU to regulate turbo output
the ECU to run from a pre-set level of parameters, and if the MAF is at fault then the TPS Throttle Position Sensor
engine should run smoothly at start-up and not display the fast-running issues. VSS Vehicle Speed Sensor
But given the hard brake feel, I do suspect one of the previous suggestions will be WOT Wide Open Throttle
the issue.

80 Car Mechanics December 2023 shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME

 Electronic JAGUAR
F-PACE
Diagnostics 3.0
TDV6
Tracing and fixing faults in electronic engine management systems
Rob Hawkins visits Tasker & Lacy of
Leeds to discover the common issues
that can arise on Jaguar’s
3.0-litre diesel engine F-PACE.

W
e last looked at the 2993cc TDV6
engine in Electronic Diagnostics in
the April 2023 issue of CM when we
examined the Land Rover Discovery 4.
That same engine is installed in the Jaguar F-PACE
seen here and the XF. This time, we’ve
consulted independent Jaguar specialist
Tasker & Lacy of Leeds to discover the
common problems that can arise on the
F-PACE that relate to engine diagnostics
and how to find the main components.
Some of the common issues are similar
to those on the Disco 4, but there are more,
such as a sticking compressor shut-off valve
(CSOV) and issues concerning overfilling
the AdBlue.

2993cc 6-cylinder turbodiesel

CYLINDERHEAD FUEL PRESSURE
FUSEBOX VACUUM TEMPERATURE SENSOR REGULATOR
SOLENOID
TURBO BOOST
PRESSURE SENSOR

VACUUM
SOLENOID

MAF INTAKE AIR MAF

SENSOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR

82 Car Mechanics December 2023 shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME

 IN ASSOCIATION
WITH TOPDON

TECH SPECS
Engine 2993cc V6 TORQUE SETTINGS
turbocharged diesel Sump drain bolt N/A
Engine oil 5W-30 Oil filter 27Nm
Oil capacity (with filter) 7 litres Road wheels 4Nm, 70Nm, then 133Nm

Typical JAGUAR F-PACE COMPONENTS Rev up your ride with

Thermal Imaging
Diagnostics!
 Experience the cutting-edge
technology of thermal imaging with
TOPDON's TCView series! Our TCView
product line offers a versatile selection
of options, including handheld imagers
(TC003), smartphone-compatible
devices (TC001/TC002), and traditional
 The diagnostics wand-style cameras (TC004/TC005),
1 OBDII port is all tailored to meet diverse diagnostic
located underneath requirements. Whether you need
the driver’s side of the to inspect electronic components,
dashboard, close to the enhance security, or monitor crops, our
centre tunnel. TCView series provides comprehensive
thermal imaging solutions for a wide
 If you intend range of applications.
2 to connect a jump With the TCView, you can harness the
pack or battery charger to power of thermal imaging to diagnose
the vehicle to reduce the your vehicle's electronic components.
risk of voltage drops and Identify abnormal heat signatures
anomalies, then there’s related to potential issues, such as
a live connection on the parasitic power drains, engine hotspots,
offside of the engine bay, and brake disc overheating with ease.
next to the fusebox. This innovative tool simplifies the
process of diagnosing problems that
can impact your vehicle's electronic
systems, ensuring optimal performance
at all times. Trust the TCView line
to keep your vehicle's electronic
components running smoothly.

Check the condition of the earth There are two mass airflow (MAF) There’s an intake air temperature (IAT)
3 connections that are next to the 4 sensors, one for each air filter housing. 5 sensor in the middle of the engine
fusebox. Make sure they are secure and Each air filter housing is located in the front bay, which is secured to the induction
free of dirt and corrosion. corners of the engine bay. pipework that’s routed to a throttle body.

shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME December 2023 Car Mechanics 83

Electronic Diagnostics 2018 JAGUAR F-PACE 3.0D Thanks to
Tasker & Lacy
0113 274 3362
Typical JAGUAR F-PACE COMPONENTS taskerandlacy.com

On the nearside of the engine bay,

6 close to the coolant expansion tank,
there’s a fuel pressure regulator. Below it,
there’s an EGR temperature sensor with one This cylinder-head temperature sensor A turbo boost pressure sensor is
of two EGR valves underneath. 7 is on the nearside of the throttle body. 8 found to the rear of the throttle body.

There are a couple of vacuum solenoids to note in the engine

9 bay. One of them is next to the cylinder-head temperature The other vacuum solenoid is next to the fusebox, which is in
sensor mentioned in step 7. It controls vacuum for the turbo actuator. 10 the offside area of the engine bay.

 Tucked down the

11 side of the engine on
the offside, an EGR valve can
be seen. There are two and the
other one is on the opposite
side of the engine (see step 6).

 Viewed from below

12 the front of the engine
(remove the engine undertray
which is secured with 21
10mm bolts), there’s a CSOV.
It balances the operation of
the two turbos. The primary
turbo is used for most of
the engine work, but above
2500rpm, the secondary
turbo comes into use and
requires the CSOV to equalise
the pressure between them.

84 Car Mechanics December 2023 shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME

 Electronic Diagnostics 2018 JAGUAR F-PACE 3.0D

Typical JAGUAR F-PACE FAULTS FAULT

1

STICKING THROTTLE BODY

 Results in overboost faults, which may switch the engine into
restricted performance. A build-up of carbon and oily deposits inside the throttle body can cause it to stick and potentially fail. In some cases,
it can be cleaned, but otherwise we have found used ones for £120-£250 and a new genuine throttle body for around £500. Overboost faults
can be caused by other problems, so read on.

SEIZED CSOV OVERFILLED ADBLUE

 Located at the front of the engine and accessed FAULT  The maximum capacity for the AdBlue tank is FAULT
from below (remove the undertray), if the
compressor shut-off valve (CSOV) sticks this can
result in an overboost fault, which may cause the
2 either eight or 16 litres and whilst the dashboard
will tell the driver when it’s running low, diagnostic
equipment can also be used to check the level. Add too
3
engine to switch to much, however, and this can result in the EML and fault
restricted performance. codes relating to the diesel exhaust fluid (DEF), which is AdBlue.
The quickest way to The AdBlue is injected into the centre of the exhaust system to help
identify this problem treat/clean the waste gases.
is to move the vacuum
capsule rod shown here
(with the engine off). If
it moves, then it hasn’t
seized. If it’s seized, the
rod may have corroded,
which is a common issue.
A smoke test will help to
confirm this problem. A
repair kit is available from
Jaguar to replace the arm
that originally has a nut
connecting it to its pivot.

DILUTED OIL OUTOFDATE PCM SOFTWARE

 If the dilution of the engine oil exceeds 7%, FAULT  Installing the latest software for the powertrain FAULT
T&L recommends replacing it (the engine oil and
filter should be changed every year or every 16,000
miles, whichever is sooner). Diagnostic equipment
4 control module (PCM) will help to iron out any
bugs and potentially irritating anomalies. This can
be completed by a Jaguar dealer or independent
5
can measure the dilution of the oil and too many short specialist that has access to
journeys can accelerate this problem. Incomplete regens of the software updates. T&L, for
diesel particulate filter (DPF) may dump excess fuel into the engine instance, charges £85+VAT
oil, which will further dilute it. (£102) per hour to run through
diagnostics and software updates,
and they estimate that this
usually takes around two hours.

ENGINE FAILURE
 There are mixed opinions on engine failure for FAULT
the TDV6, but a snapped crankshaft appears to be
the most common problem. Yet there’s no definite
pattern and some engines appear to survive with
6
over 300k on the clock, whereas some low-mileage
motors can fail without warning.

shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME December 2023 Car Mechanics 85

 CM ex-project cars update
PART
ONE
2005 RENAULT LAGUNA II
1.9 dCi SPORT TOURER
November 2012-March 2013
 My first ever CM project car. I expressed
grave doubts about getting one of
these as they had such a terrible
reputation, but we went ahead and
bought this one from British Car
Auctions (BCA) at Brighouse for £1600
and 78,130 miles. I collected Editor
Martyn from a nearby train station
where we found the metallic red Estate
complete with the offside front wheel
and destroyed tyre in the boot – the full-
sized steel spare was fitted. A shiny new
offside front road spring told the story.
The battery was flat, so we jumped
it from a BCA booster pack. It sounded
good and after filling the tank and
checking the tyre pressures at a nearby
garage, we set off back to my Sheffield
base. Well, in the end the Laguna turned
out to be so reliable that there was little
to do. I renewed the cambelt (easy), both
front window regulators (amazingly
easy), changed the gearbox oil, fitted
some tyres and a DIY wheel refurb.
I liked the Laguna a lot apart from those
hateful flat keycards. It was super comfy,
solidly built and it rode and handled
very well. I was sad to see it go.
EDITOR’S COMMENT: I bought the
Laguna afterwards. I ‘hired’ it to
my brother-in-law. The hire fee
included a maintenance package,
but as the car was about 60 miles
from me, I had to find a French
car repairer in that area to keep
on top of servicing and repairs.
I don’t think I made much, if any
money out of ‘renting’. After about
86 Car Mechanics December 2023
PREVIOUS
PROJECT CARS
Andrew Everett and Rob Hawkins have
managed over 40 project cars for CM, but
where are they now? We bring you an update.
ANDREW EVERETT
three years, I discovered that my
brother-in-law had stopped insuring
the said Laguna – I was wild. So, I
contacted a local scrapyard I’d used
before and had it lifted to end the
Laguna’s life at nearly 120,000 miles.
2002 BMW E46 3-SERIES
320d TOURING bought a new wing for the other side
May-November 2013 and had both painted and undersealed,
leaving the other bits to be done last
 The day I collected this one, it was
cold and trying to snow. I gathered up
of all. Brake pipes, dampers, discs,
handbrake shoes, ABS sensor, steering
all the Laguna handbooks, gave it a last
column stalk – this car was a two-owner
sweep out and set off. Editor Martyn
neglected wreck but once we were done,
had bought the 320d from his local
it was quite a nice car. Though it never
auction for £1300 – and it sounded
really went as well as a 320d should.
like a bit of a shed. We met up at the
EDITOR’S COMMENT: Sold afterwards
services near the M69 at Leicester and it
to a CM reader. Last MOT in March
was snowing a bit more now. The 320d
2018 showed 191,924 miles. Believed
was, to put it bluntly, shagged. One
to be scrapped.
front wing was rusty, the other dinged,
both rear arches festering and the turbo
whistled like a steam train. I set off and 2004 VAUXHALL ZAFIRA A
by the time I was passing Nottingham
the snow was really coming down –
March-August 2014
 This time I drove all the way down
I had doubts that it would make it back.
from Sheffield to Eastbourne to swap
The turbo was so worn it had very
the 320d for this Zafira at Editor
little boost and I just about got the
Martyn’s place. I never did crack 50mpg
car back and into the workshop. This
with the 320d, even with the cruise set
BMW needed everything. The first
at an indicated 75. Oh well.
replacement turbo ingested some
Bought from BCA Paddock Wood,
debris and had to be replaced along
Kent, the Zafira Elegance was quite a
with a new intercooler – schoolboy
clean car inside and out. It cost us £1310
error! The swirl flaps had already been
and had 96,134 miles on the clock. It did
removed as part of a previous engine
surprise me with how well it was built for
rebuild when one got sucked in and
a cheaply produced car. The 1.8 petrol
the poor car hadn’t had an oil change
was slow though and would just about
in over 17,000 miles. I repaired one wing,
get out of its own way. I pulled over,
disconnected the MAF and suddenly it
went a LOT better even if the EML was
glowing. Fitting a new MAF was the first
job and came with the first batch of
parts we used from Autovaux. The jobs
to do included finding out why the
passenger rear door would not lock,
and it was of course broken wires
in the door loom, easily repaired. I
also renewed the standard original
springs with a set of Eibach uprated
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME

lowing springs and GM’s intelligent
methods of attaching struts to a car
made it very easy. With new Boge gas
dampers it handled better, and actually
drove very well. We did the cambelt
and water pump on the 16v Ecotec unit
and a few other bits but overall, it was a
decent and useful car.
EDITOR’S COMMENT: I sold the Zafira
1.8 to a guy in the publisher’s office
(Peterborough). They had trouble
with coolant leaking soon afterwards.
The Zafira was scrapped in 2019
with the last MOT in October 2018
showing 133,284 miles.
2003 MERCEDES-BENZ
C180 KOMPRESSOR
SPORTS COUPE
October 2014-March 2015
 The first CM project car that I collected
from the publishers Peterborough
offices. The C180 hatchback (Coupe) in
silver with anthracite cloth and a manual
6-speed ’box. It had a blowing exhaust;
ran like a pig with audible timing chain
noise and had the inevitable EML
glowing. Bodily it was quite good being
the first of the galvanised models that
didn’t rot like a pear, although the rear
arch lips needed a tickle with a wire
brush in the grinder and touching up.
The first job was to fix the exhaust
blow – just a loose joint if I remember
correctly, and then replace the timing
chain. I did this without removing the
head or sump, just loosening the sump
bolts and dropping it a fraction. It wasn’t
a bad job but although the car ran
fine, we just could not get the EML to
stay off. I replaced the steering column
multi-stalk, replaced a damaged driver’s
door lock and replaced a host of engine
sensors to try and tame the EML. That
apart, it had the usual host of discs, pads
and servicing but very little else of note.
On my last day with it, I took it back
to Peterborough and five miles from
my destination, the EML pinged up
again. It was a good car though and
I liked driving it, but the EML would
haunt the next users.
EDITOR’S COMMENT: I took the Merc
to my local garage – they performed
an engine ‘smoke’ test, running
heated baby oil through the induction
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME
CM ex-project cars update
system. A leak from the EGR valve was
noticed. Tightening the union cured
the leak – and if I remember correctly
the EML didn’t appear again. We sold
the Merc to a friend of Dealer’s Diary
Steven Ward. Last MOT’d in 2022
with no advisories at 131,387 miles,
it would appear that the Merc is now
scrapped (or crashed).
2007 FORD Ka 1.3
May-November 2015
 Another one collected from
Peterborough one sunny afternoon. At
eight years old, this Ka had the usual
rust around the filler cap but that apart,
it wasn’t bad at all. I had a Ka new in
1999 and remembered how good they
were, although the later 1.3 OHC (as
fitted to this one) was a little better
than the old OHV unit – both are
perfectly fine for the job.
The Ka didn’t need much if I recall
– the usual brakes, a set of tyres,
a heater control valve (a common
problem on Kas with air-conditioning
and an auxiliary belt that required
headlight removal. I taught my then
wife to drive in it, basic car control
around the massive Tesco overspill
car park on early Sunday mornings.
It was nicknamed ‘The Alien’ due to
its odd appearance. The bodywork job
was quite comprehensive – we took it
to a professional bodyshop in Sheffield
who cut out the rusty fuel filler cap area
before bonding in a new inner ‘pot’ and
spot welding a new outer skin on – they
also painted both sides of the car and
the bonnet. I blasted a gallon of black
Waxoyl into all areas and it seems to
have survived with minimal work.
EDITOR’S COMMENT: Andrew wrote
the above before we heard in the last
issue that Robin (who bought the Ka
from us) has had to scrap the Ka due
to more corrosion issues.
2007 VOLVO S60 2.4D
December 2015-May 2016
 Hot on the heels of the Ka came this
high-mileage (157k) black Volvo S60. It
came from BCA Nottingham. With an
impressive dent in the offside rear wing,
as well as a split bumper, the S60 also
had a noisy power steering pump – but
it was only £1500 – the good old days
when cars could be bought cheaply.
The noisy pump was cured by adding
some oil and later on by replacing the
leaking reservoir. The bodyshop that did
our Ka repaired the rear wing which was
very involved and required sections cut
from a scrap S60, plus a bumper fix. The
intermittent EML (ENGINE SERVICE) was
done to a broken rod on the swirl flap
actuator, a known weak point on these
five-pot diesels. The cambelt was a nice
easy one and I also replaced the springs
with Eibachs to lower it and soften the
ride – the ride on this Sport model was
diabolical. The Volvo was OK but best
as a motorway cruiser. Around town,
the huge turning circle and appalling
‘Spaceball’ gearchange didn’t endear
it much to me but it did have superb
seats. It was much better than the next
car though...
EDITOR’S COMMENT: Steven Ward
collected this from me in Leeds to sell
on to someone he knew. He didn’t really
like the driving experience on his way
back north. The S60 is still on the road
today – MOT tested in late September
at 174,972 miles. Looks like the last
owner stopped being the owner in
early September as the tax status says
it is now in the trade environment.
2006 RENAULT MEGANE
SCENIC II 1.6 VVT
July-December 2016
 I hated this thing! So much so that
I actively avoided driving it apart from
when its admittedly large loading area
would be useful – taking an old kitchen
to the dump for example. It wasn’t a
bad car but it had the bad points of the
Laguna – that keycard – but without
anything being really good about it. Jobs
included replacing the tired out clutch
and the cambelt with a dephaser pulley.
The keycard really is a dealbreaker for
me on these Renaults – it’s too fragile,
too unreliable and too easy to lose. The
fact that I don’t recall a single journey
in it anywhere tells you all you need to
know. Worthy but dull sums it up.
EDITOR’S COMMENT: I could see
that Andrew hadn’t liked our Scenic
– he had only put about 300 miles
on the clock after I’d delivered it – in
six months! We paid £1100 for the
76,000-miler 1.6 VVT (which did lack
any real pulling power). Road tax
back in 2016 was £230, today £320.
I sold the Scenic to my postman…
December 2023 Car Mechanics 87
CM ex-project cars update
They kept it some time. Today, though,
although the Scenic is taxed, someone
has forgotten to get it MOT’d in late
September. At the 2022 MOT, the
mileage had reached 122,815.
2006 BMW 118d ES
February-July 2017
 This was a tremendous thing. This
red base-model ES had done 204,834
miles and was bought blind. It could
have been a disaster, but it was a gem. It
was delivered direct to Parkside Garage
in Worksop who have done so much
CM mechanical work. With a sticky rear
caliper replaced, it went through an
MOT and was pressed into service.
Over the next six months and quite
a lot of miles, we replaced all four
dampers, replaced the discs and pads,
crankcase breather and fixed an aircon
fault – a failed electric fan meant the
system was overheating and shutting
down, but a £25 used fan and a regas
fixed that. Even at that mileage, the
diff was still quiet, so I used the noisy
100,000-mile diff from my own 2007
320i to show how to rebuild one. An
excellent car. Of course, my next car had
to be French, didn’t it?
1986 Toyota MR2 Mk1
August 2003-January 2004
 One of the best two-seater mid-
engine sports cars I’ve driven. The
punchy 1.6-litre Toyota 4AGE engine
with its variable induction system may
have only had around 120bhp at the
flywheel, but it was a blast to drive and
could be thrashed all day long around a
race circuit and would still make it home
afterwards. After having serviced the
engine, including replacing the timing
belt, renewing the brake discs and pads,
88 Car Mechanics December 2023
EDITOR’S COMMENT:
With auction fees, this one
cost us £1760. For a 10-year-
old BMW it was cheap but of
course the mileage was high.
Bought from BCA Brighouse
unseen, it turned out to be
a great car. I sold it to a CM
reader who drove it many
miles thereafter. It was MOT’d in
August this year at 274,417 miles
– and has never had any corrosion
comments from the MOT testers.
2007 PEUGEOT 207 CC
September 2017-February 2018
 After the 118d, you can’t expect
much from a Peugeot 207 but I really,
really, REALLY hated this one with a
passion. I can never get comfortable
driving anything PSA and I found this
car awkward and unpleasant to drive.
It was also unreliable and expensive to
fix, plus rust was getting its teeth into it.
I don’t think I did many miles, and
I certainly didn’t put the roof down.
The main reliability dramas
surrounded the timing chain setup
that had stretched by 4mm after a
whopping 66,000 miles. After that it
needed the inlet ports decoking (it’s a
direct-injection lump) but it was never
up to much – weak performance and
uninspiring handling. The first actual
breakdown was when the £800 high-
pressure fuel pump failed and luckily,
we were able to find a very good
Peugeot specialist in Sheffield who
ROB HAWKINS
welding a patch down the offside A-post
and adding some engine modifications,
the MR2 was stolen and almost wrecked
in a police chase. Determined to return
it to the road, I replaced some of the
bodywork and straightened out the rest,
but the engine failed, and the car was
scrapped. I soon bought another one.
EDITOR’S COMMENT: I wasn’t Editor
at the time but was involved with the
page layout of CM. It was a shame this
MR2 came to abrupt end. Have you
seen the prices of them these days!
1971 MGB GT
May 2004-June 2005
 Bought as an abandoned, dismantled
restoration project, the chrome bumper
MGB GT needed 14 episodes in CM to
cover all the work required to return it
to the road. Everything from welding
repairs and panel fitment to a full
respray was followed, along with the
meticulous reassembly. The completed
car cost over £10k to restore, and it only
sold for £6500. Its current MOT history
supplied and fitted a new ‘shop soiled’
pump for around £300. On the day I was
due to meet Martyn at BCA Nottingham,
the clutch exploded with no prior
warning. I was certainly glad to see the
back of that one!
EDITOR’S COMMENT: Well, I like
French cars. I hadn’t intended to
buy this one… but the publishing
company wanted it sold asap as the
end of tax year was approaching.
I didn’t have a buyer, so… I bought it.
We drove the CC to Looe, Cornwall in
2019, roof down as it was 30°C outside
on the way down, it rained most of the
week there, then roof down for 31°C
return journey. Earlier this year the
Peugeot went for scrap! I noticed rust
in the front suspension turret, offside
worse than nearside. A bit of poking
with a screwdriver and the hole got
big. But the MOT tester might have
missed it due to the coolant reservoir
cover in their way. The turbocharged
1.6 never did run well at low rpm – I
had it remapped from 150bhp to 190
to try to cure the running issue, but
that didn’t help. The scrapman drove it
away from here – then I found out the
207 CC was MOT’d in March this year –
and is supposedly still roadworthy!
shows it’s still on the road and thankfully
hasn’t been made MOT exempt.
EDITOR’S COMMENT: Peter Simpson
and I went to view the MGB over in
Essex and decided to buy it (some of
the car came in boxes). We then hired
a car transporter and a LDV Pilot – one
to collect the bodyshell, the other to
pick-up the rest of the car – including
interior. A MGB specialist in Hull was
our destination (from Essex). On the
way back, to save the publishing
company a few pence (in a bridge toll
and diesel), we put the Pilot on the
back of the car transporter. Bit dicey
going over the windy Humber bridge.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME

1983 VOLKSWAGEN GOLF
GTI Mk1
July 2005-January 2006
 Bought locally for £650 without a
current MOT certificate, the Mk1 GTI made
it to the testing station, only for a coolant
hose to blow because it was the wrong
type (it was a breather hose). Powered
by a 1.8-litre SOHC petrol engine and
mated to a five-speed manual gearbox,
this GTI had the right components for a
hot hatchback from the Eighties. Overall,
it was a reasonable car with average
paintwork, so we serviced the engine
and brakes, replaced the suspension for
Spax springs and dampers and bought
new seat covers and a carpet set from
Newton Commercial. With so much
ongoing work, I never got the chance
to take the GTI for a long drive until
I headed down the A1 to Peterborough
to deliver it to Peter Simpson. Only then
did I discover it jumped out of fifth gear!
The car returned at a later date for some
welding repairs and was then bought by
someone in West Yorkshire.
EDITOR’S COMMENT: The Golf
GTI Mk1 project was infamously
remembered for having 21 owners in
22 years! Currently VNT 280Y is taxed.
A change of owner happened very
recently (October). Off the road since
2008, it is now 40 years old so doesn’t
legally require a test. The bodywork
has changed from red to white!
1992 MITSUBISHI PAJERO
SHOGUN
February-August 2006
 Imported to the UK in 1997, but
having been manufactured and
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME
CM ex-project cars update
registered in 1992, this seven-seater
long-wheelbase Pajero was powered
by a 2.5-litre diesel engine and came
with an automatic gearbox. Fuel
consumption at first was a painful
15-20mpg, which after various fuel
treatments and a thorough service
was raised to the low twenties. It was
driven as often as possible to ensure
all problems were fixed, such as a
cold-start issue, and after servicing all
aspects of it, the Pajero was returned to
CM HQ and eventually sold.
EDITOR’S COMMENT: I remember
driving the Pajero – a heavy lump with
seven seats. The autobox would kick-
down when asked, but the engine was
unrefined over 3000rpm. Can’t exactly
remember where the Pajero went
afterwards – it was scrapped in 2008.
1999 VAUXHALL TIGRA 1.4
July 2006-January 2007
 Belonging to one of the members of
staff at Kelsey, this was one of the more
straightforward projects to manage and
one of the newest at a mere seven-
years-old at the time. Consequently, the
majority of the project series was spent
meticulously servicing the vehicle and
fixing problems, including replacing
the timing belt, renewing the brakes,
changing a wheel bearing and fitting
a new exhaust and coolant radiator.
Everything ran smoothly and the Tigra
was returned to its owner.
EDITOR’S COMMENT: The Tigra was
kept by the lady owner for a number of
years after the magazine appearance.
However, it was scrapped in 2013/14
after hitting 100,000 miles.
2003 VAUXHALL ASTRA G
1.7 DTi
February-July 2011
 The fourth-generation of the Astra,
this 2003 model cost £1695 to buy when
it was approaching eight-years-old in
early 2011. It soon became the Hawkins’
family transport, so lots of servicing was
completed, and a few problems were
fixed concerning failed suspension
components, dented bodywork and
scuffed alloy wheels, but on the whole,
the Isuzu engine diesel estate was a
reliable runner and got as far as the
Netherlands, fully-loaded with bikes, kids
and a roof box. It was eventually sold at
the end of 2012 for £995.
EDITOR’S COMMENT: Rob’s Astra
survived to 2017 when it was scrapped.
It had covered over 170,000 miles.
1999 ALFA ROMEO 156
1.8 TWINSPARK
August 2011-January 2012
 Independent Italian car specialist Alfa
Tecnico had a courtesy car that we talked
them into servicing and addressing any
common problems, such as corroded
floors. They obliged and in return, we
covered everything from an engine
service and timing belt replacement,
to replacing brake and suspension
components and welding up those
rusty floors. Unfortunately, the car didn’t
survive for much longer and it was last
on the road towards the end of 2013.
EDITOR’S COMMENT: Most 156 Alfas
were fitted with the 2.0 twin-spark.
However, the 1.8 TS was lively enough
– I know as I was driving this car to get
our front cover image.
December 2023 Car Mechanics 89
CM ex-project cars update
2004 LEXUS IS200 SE
February-July 2012
 Bought as a Cat D, crash-damaged car
that needed repairing and returning to
the road, this eight-year-old rear-wheel-
drive Lexus cost £1500, but needed
several replacement panels, including
a front bumper, OSF wing, front grille
and possibly a bonnet and rear bumper.
We found a few colour-matched panels,
but also needed a few paint repairs.
After servicing the engine and brakes,
the Lexus passed the MOT test and was
returned to the road.
EDITOR’S COMMENT: Sold to a CM
reader. I believe it was then put on
a private plate as I lost track of it via
online checks. Now though I can see
the MOT history under the original
plate of MP53 RTX. The IS200 was
tested in 2017 at 111,050 miles, then
wasn’t tested again until April 2020
(Covid times). The mileage had crept
up to 137,766 miles, so had been used
without an MOT. Unless it went onto
another private plate. During the 2020
MOT, it was noted by the tester, under
advisories – bonnet held in place by
pins, front bumper held in place by
cable ties, nearside wing has a hole
covered by tape – and also holding
the wing repeater! Looks like it had
crashed again! Currently on SORN.
90 Car Mechanics December 2023
2004 SMART FORTWO
September 2012-February 2013
 Smart-TECNIC of Birmingham had
this 2004 model (698cc) in their yard
that was firing on two cylinders (it only
had three to start with), was almost
drinking oil, had broken suspension
springs and a rumbling wheel bearing,
so it was the ideal candidate for a
modern car restoration project. They
had bought it for a mere £800, so we
followed them complete all the work,
including an engine rebuild and fixing
all the aforementioned problems. I’m a
huge fan of these town cars, having first
driven them back in the late Nineties
for CM when they were only available as
LHD imports. This one is still MOT’d.
EDITOR’S COMMENT: Untaxed since
February, the MOT is out at the end
of November. At the last MOT it had
covered 109,024 miles.
1998 MAZDA MX-5 Mk2 1.8
March-September 2013
 Bought from my local garage, MJ
Motors, for £1000 after the previous
owner had abandoned it, I still own this
and it’s now having its rear wheelarches
repaired. Just about everything has
been changed on this Mk2, from the
brakes and suspension to the interior
and paintwork (it’s now Porsche Viper
Green). In my opinion, it’s the best two-
seater sports car I’ve ever driven, and I
love the handling and feedback through
the chassis, suspension and steering.
EDITOR’S COMMENT: Rob likes his
rear-wheel-drive motors and he has
owned and fixed this MX-5 for 10
years. I’ve ridden as a passenger and
I can see how enjoyable it is to drive.
2002 FORD FOCUS Mk1
1.8 TDCi
January-June 2014
 Bought for £1182 at auction with large
amounts of rust along the bottom edge
of the nearside doors, a pool of water in
the front passenger footwell, but with a
Ghia specification that included a heated
windscreen, climate control, traction
control, a six-stack CD player and an
on-board computer. I’d already covered
almost 30,000 miles in the Astra G, and
decided to sell it to replace it with the
Focus that offered a superior ride quality
and a punchier engine. Over six issues of
CM, the rusty doors were replaced, the
water leak was fixed and everything was
serviced. It remained the family transport
until three days before Christmas 2015
when the engine died on the M1 and
never ran again. Despite trying to fix it,
the car was eventually scrapped in 2016
for eighty quid.
EDITOR’S COMMENT: This was the first
car I bought from my local car auction.
Rusty door bottoms are common on
the Mk1, as well as lower front wings
and front and rear edges of the sills.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME
 Classic Car Insurance
the Goodwood Way

I T ’ S A PA S S I O N W E S H A R E

From the moment we fall in love with the joy of motoring,

to owning the models we dreamt of as children, our relationship
with cars shifts gear as life unfolds. No matter where you are on
the journey, you can rely on Goodwood Classic Solutions to
take care of quotes and policies, leaving you to enjoy the ride.
Because Goodwood understands that insuring a classic car is about 01243 913333
more than just cover; it’s about protecting your lifelong passion. goodwood.com/insurance

Goodwood Classic Solutions is a trading name of Herts Insurance Consultants Ltd. Herts Insurance Consultants Ltd are authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority under registration 309073
 Our Cars
Alan
Anderson
Special Contributor

A6 Avant
Le Mans

W
e have the driver of a once
beautiful BMW to thank
for owning this Audi. Not
that my eldest son, Bradley,
had any intentions of replacing his
restored 56-plate Land Rover Discovery 3
until this Beemer travelling in the
opposite direction decided otherwise,
hitting the Land Rover’s offside with
such ferocity that only a telegraph pole
prevented the off-roader from rolling
onto the kerb. It takes a lot to write off
a Discovery so it’s no surprise that the
once Ultimate Driving Machine was no celebrate Audi’s dominance of the Le and front bumper at some point in the
more – and was collected up in a vacuum Mans 24 Hours endurance race (winning past, although it can still do with a bit
bag. Thankfully and miraculously, there 13 times from 15 starts), the special of all-round TLC. It’s a seven-owner car
were no serious injuries. edition Le Mans spec added extra kit with well over 230,000 miles to its credit
In fact, what hurt the most was the such as an uprated interior with a special but crucially, as with our late lamented
insurance pay out that amounted to half three-spoke S line sports steering wheel Discovery, has had a fair bit of money
of what Bradley had spent on making and Audi’s Multi-Media Interface (MMI) spent on maintenance so it still drives
his Landie desirable and trustworthy setup, featuring a 10-speaker audio/CD. really well. Not a bad buy for £1700 all
– perhaps a sobering lesson about Plus, ours came with a television which told considering that when new this A6
lavishing money on a vehicle that you’ll still works! Mechanically, Le Mans retailed at £35,845.
likely to never recuperate when it, benefitted from the lowered S line
literally, comes to the crunch? suspension and an uprated braking
With depleted funds, picking a system, which we’ll touch upon later. Putting a brake on things
suitable replacement ‘all-weather’ Only 1000 Le Mans saloons and Avant Packing over 220bhp with a mighty
workhorse was proving pretty difficult estates were allocated to the UK so they 330lbft of torque, the 3.0-litre TDI is
and certainly another Discovery was could well become a future classic. still a very quick car – which is why good
out of the question for what was in the ND07 DAA is in fairly good nick quality brakes are imperative and what
kitty. What we did find however, was displaying no real body or interior mighty affairs the fronts are, being
an Audi A6 Avant 3.0 TDI Quattro Le damage to speak of, having been 357mm in diameter. However, first job
Mans – and if it sounds rather grand subjected to a respraying of the flanks to tick off the ‘to do list’ was to cure
then that’s because it is. Marketed to

It takes a lot to write off a Land Rover
Discovery, but a BMW and a telegraph pole
had little trouble! The insurance pay-out fell
well short of what was actually spent on the
Land Rover – a lesson to learn?
Interior remains in pretty good shape,
including the load bay. Le Mans spec means
added kit and all the toys work as they
should, including the television, although the
sat-nav is now a bit primitive.
The A6’s appearance was spoiled by its
heavily mangled alloys which we had
refurbished by pricey diamond cutting – well
worth it though but keep away from kerbs!
Tyres are quality Yokohamas.

Fix your car with Quality Components | www.blue-print.com

92 Car Mechanics December 2023 shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME

 IN ASSOCIATION WITH

New recruit A6 Avant Le Mans Splitting the caliper is done in the normal
represents a heck of a lot of manner but have a bungee ready to tie this
prestige performance car for the hefty bit of kit out of the way. Strangely new
With car supported on axle stands and
money as well as a likely future hub locating screws were fitted so came out
wheels removed, at first glance the discs
classic – ours cost just £1700 easily leading us to wonder if the discs were
didn’t appear that badly worn to account
but then again, it’s not ULEZ replaced not that long ago new or the wheel
for such excessive brake judder. Refacing
compliant. Due to earlier repairs, bearings were disturbed at some point.
was initially considered but deemed false
the bodywork is in good shape
economy. The Audi’s rear discs were replaced
apart from roof’s original finish
just before purchase incidentally.
which has gone notably ‘flat’

their shuddering ways. Periodic disc

replacement seems to have become a part
of modern car maintenance and for parts
there’s only one place to go: partsfinder.
bilsteingroup.com which stocks more
than 48,000 different references.
Apart from their not inconsiderable
weight, there’s nothing out of the ordinary
replacing this Audi’s front discs, of which
here we can assume that it’s probably their While the brake pads were probably only Comparing old against new and you didn’t
third change. However before carrying around 40% worn, the nearside set displayed need a vernier gauge to establish their
a lot of ‘chatter’ marks and also the start of a difference in thickness, with the rear face
out the job, I did, partly out of curiosity, quite pronounced ridge forming on the rear on the nearside disc taking a lot of beating.
enquire about the cost having the discs pad where the disc face was scored. While it We checked the caliper’s operation, and it
simply refaced while still on the car, as may be tempting, it’s bad procedure to reuse was OK but cleaned the pistons with brake
at first glance they didn’t appear terribly old pads on new discs. cleaner and a rag.
worn. There’s quite a number of garages
– as well as mobile mechanics – offering
this service using dedicated equipment,
however, I was pretty dismayed about
the quotes I received because they either
matched or exceeded the cost of new
aftermarket discs.
To be fair garages that provide this
service concede that it is more suited to
high-end prestige and sports cars and,
of course, if you are not DIY inclined,
there’s no fitting charges to bump up the
bill. It’s said that a normal worn disc can
be skimmed at least once, but it seems
daft not to fit replacements for a similar
price and have done with it because if Before fitting the new febi discs, thoroughly Reassembly is reverse of dismantling,
nothing else new febi ones in particular, clean off the layer of protective film with remembering to remove reservoir cap first to
come with a reassuring three-year brake cleaner. Also, to prevent any likelihood allow excess fluid to escape before ensuring
of future disc run out problems, scrupulously the caliper pistons are fully pushed back
guarantee. The pic strip shows what we clean off any rust or detritus from the hub’s to accept new pads. Otherwise, caliper will
found wrong with our old discs and how mating surfaces – and wire brush the carrier prove tough to mate up and cause excessive
we made this A6’s brakes A1 again. before fitting the new pads. binding. Finally, bed brakes in for 100 miles.

Online Cataloge | partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com

shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME December 2023 Car Mechanics 93

 Our Cars
Peter
Clayton
Special Contributor
Lights,
arms,
action!
F
or the fusspots among us,
nothing quite ruins driving
engagement like having a wonky
steering wheel. My 2006 BMW
130i M-Sport was not only munching
through front tyres, but the steering
wheel was offset at the 11 o’clock
position and had a nasty vibration when
driving just below the national speed
limit. After a tyre replacement I’d have to
get the tracking sorted sooner than later
to save my sanity!
The sticker in the driver’s door shut
indicated that front tyres should be of the
205/45/18 profile while the rears get the
wider 225/40/18. A nice set of Michelin
Pilot Sports would put a reasonable dent
in my budget, especially for the fronts as
they aren’t a common size and warrant
an extra 26% on the price tag! A trick
used by 130i owners is to use a ‘square’
setup, which I decided to try, that meant
all four corners get the more common
Both condensation and a broken mounting
bracket meant a replacement second-hand
headlamp unit was the easiest option.
94 Car Mechanics December 2023
Only simple tools are usually
required for this job – just have
patience for stubborn bolts.
225/40/18 profile, with no issues in
drivability as the rolling circumference
change is less than five millimetres.
My local garage, Stainless Creations
in Falkirk, were happy to re-shoe my
Bavarian stallion and with a good wheel
balance later that bothersome vibration
was now a thing of history! After the
work was complete the alignment would
still have to be sorted out to ensure
that the new rubber would not be
worn prematurely. I was advised that
while the front tracking (toe) could be
adjusted, the rear toe arms could not be
moved without damaging them due to
ageing rubber and corrosion. For that
reason, the steering wheel would have to
continue pointing to the left to counter
There is a rusty clip holding the bumper edge
to the wing – past its best this was renewed.
The base of the first replacement lamp I received
had a poor plastic weld that split open at a
bracket mounting point. I sent it back.
More than 48,000 different spare
parts in OE matching quality
a misalignment at the rear until those
elderly control arms were completely
replaced. While the 130i was in my
garage getting a headlamp replacement
(as you’ll see below) I decided to renew
the arms myself in preparation for a
home-brew wheel alignment.
Headlamp replacement
With the offside front headlamp’s
securing bracket broken (picked up
in an old MOT advisory) and it also
allowing condensation to form on the
inside (my pet hate), I decided to scour
eBay for a replacement unit. This being
a bog-standard halogen lamp meant it
was around three times cheaper than a
‘Xenon’ version, and the choices were
endless being such a common part! My
first purchase came in at under £40
delivered, however there was a broken
plastic weld on the casing that secured
an important bracket so had to be
sent back (free of charge). My second
attempt was more fruitful after carefully
examining the photos online.
With the front bumper cover removed,
extracting the old headlamp was
reasonably straightforward. A long Torx
screwdriver took care of the majority
of fixings and with careful wiggling
eventually came away from its plastic
carrier. On refitting the replacement
lamp, I tightened all bracket screws just
enough so that the lamp would still
move around as it’s better to adjust the
position of the lamp when the bumper
cover is refitted to get an even panel gap
around the lamp, tightening each bracket
in turn. It’s also worth connecting just the
electrical cable to test the lights actually
work before going to the effort of getting
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME
 Our Cars Peter Clayton IN ASSOCIATION WITH

everything back together perfectly! When

refitting the bumper cover, I also did my
future-self a big favour and refreshed all
clips which were past their best. My BMW
dealer, Douglas Park in Stirling, was able
to supply zinc-coated clips with screws
for 75p each – actually cheaper and
better quality than going online where
£3 is a common figure!
To finish things off, I freshened up all
the front bulbs with some Osram long-
life H7 units for the dipped and main
beams. I also treated the indicators to a
silver-coated Philips bulb for a bit of a
visual improvement. The silver coating
helps conceal the amber colour when the
lamp isn’t illuminated, avoiding a ‘fried
egg’ appearance.
Continuing the refresh theme, I also
picked up some genuine side repeaters
that are housed within the wings. The old
ones were beyond saving; seals dried up
Making reference marks on the old eccentric
bolts and replicating on the new ones
allows the suspension setup to be roughly
copied to the new arms before making finer
adjustments later.
The old eccentric adjustment nut and bolt
which seized within the toe arm bush pin.
Old side repeater vs new with silver coated amber bulbs.
and plastics being yellowed and cloudy.
Carefully pushing the casing forward
against the internal spring and lifting out
with the help of a plastic trim tool and
microfibre cloth was all it took. While it
was out, I replaced the 501 (W5W) bulbs
with silver coated amber units supplied
by Auto Bulbs Direct. I always buy bulbs
from well-respected outlets as they can
guarantee quality type-approved bulbs
suitable for road use (and will stipulate if
any are strictly for off-road only).
Regaining control
Jacking up the rear end and removing
the road wheels was all that was needed
to access the two main bolts securing the
rear control arms (for adjusting toe). One
was attached to the hub assembly and the
other was on the subframe attached by
the main eccentric adjustment bolt. The
design is quite interesting as the flange
sits in a recess on the subframe which has
an elongated passage to allow a side-to-
side movement when the bolt is turned.
The bolt also has grooves running down
its flanks which act as a key into a thick
eccentric washer that sits on the other
side of the subframe also in a recess. A
nut then keeps everything together.
The problem with having grooves
running down the eccentric bolt is that
it facilitates corrosion along the shank.
Even with a douse of deblock oil and my
‘big Bertha’ breaker bar, the securing
nut refused to budge, and the end of
the bolt snapped instead! It was then a
case of running the adjustment side of
the bolt up and down several times to
loosen it out with help of a pry bar on
the flange. For the other side I used a
mini-induction heater on the nut to get
it near red-hot before it came off.
With febi able to supply OE quality
rear arms that are a millimetre-perfect
match to the originals, a set of two were
ordered up using their online parts
finder partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com.
Depending on the make and model febi
often supply arms as a ‘kit’, which include
the correct grade zinc-coated nuts and
bolts, which is a very economical option.
Fitting, needless to say, was much
easier than removal! The rear hubs were
supported by a jack to compress the
components to normal ride-height before
torquing up the bolts. The nut for the
eccentric bolt was done up hand-tight
so that I could then perform a four-
wheel alignment at home. But that’s for
another CM article…
The innermost bolt adjusts
toe when doing alignment.
Torque up fixings with arms
positioned at ride height to
preserve the bushes.

Mini induction heaters are getting cheaper

and can be worth the investment if you deal
with older cars frequently!

Searching becomes finding!

Register for free...partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com

shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME December 2023 Car Mechanics 95

 BACK ISSUES
ORDER DIRECT via shop.kelsey.co.uk/single-issue/car-mechanics-magazine

NOVEMBER 2023
Kit out your Workshop Supplement •
Vehicle Networking • Project Lexus IS
250, Pt4 • Project Range Rover L322 4.4
V8, Pt6 • Saving a BMW Z3 • Buying
+ Owning: Nissan GT-R 2009-2022 •
Service Bay: Volvo C70 D3 • History of
UK Registration Numbers • Electronic
Diagnostics: Mercedes-Benz C320 CDi.
OCTOBER 2023
DIY Servicing • Project Lexus IS 250, Pt3
• Project Range Rover L322 4.4 V8, Pt5
• Buying + Owning: Vauxhall Insignia
2008-2017 • Product Test: Cordless
Vacuum Cleaners • 30 Car Accessories
and Practices from long ago • Service
Bay: Suzuki SX4 S-Cross 1.6 • Electronic
Diagnostics: Audi A3 8P 2.0 TDI.
SEPTEMBER 2023
A Guide to Aircon • Project Lexus IS 250,
Pt2 • Project Range Rover L322 4.4 V8,
Pt4 • CM Visit: Burton Power • Buying
+ Owning: VW Beetle 2012-2018 •
BMW Front Lower Suspension Arms •
Clutch Clinic: Vauxhall Astra J • Service
Bay: Skoda Citigo 1.0 • Electronic
Diagnostics: MINI Cooper S D F55.
AUGUST 2023
An introduction to ECUs • Project Lexus
IS 250, Pt1 • Project Range Rover L322
4.4 V8, Pt3 • Summer Fun! • Buying +
Owning: Toyota GT86 2012-2021 • Timing
Belt Clinic: Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCi • Service
Bay: Vauxhall Astra J 1.6 • Electronic
Diagnostics: VW Golf 1.4 TSI DSG •
Diagnostics Case Study: BMW 7-series.
JULY 2023
30 Used Cars for under £10k • Fixing Hard
Tops • Project Range Rover L322 4.4 V8,
Pt2 • Project Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCi, Pt6
• Hybrid Faults & Fixes, Pt2 • Buying +
Owning: Fiat 124 Spider 2016-2019 •
Service Bay: Toyota Avensis 2.2D • Product
Test: Ratchet Spanners • Electronic
Diagnostics: Peugeot 208 1.2 non-turbo.
JUNE 2023
Tackling Smart Repairs • Project
Range Rover L322 4.4 V8, Pt1 •
Project Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCi, Pt5 •
Hybrid Faults & Fixes, Pt1 • Buying
+ Owning: BMW i3 2013-on • DIY
Garage Makeover • Service Bay:
VW Tiguan 2.0 TDI • Electronic
Diagnostics: Honda CR-V 2.2 i-DTEC.

MAY 2023
Understanding AdBlue & SCR Systems
• Project Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCi, Pt4
• Skoda Fabia 1.4 TDI Oil Pump Chain
Failure • Swapping Front Control Arms
• Buying + Owning: Porsche Cayenne
2011-2018 • Service Bay: Jaguar XKR
5.0 • Electronic Diagnostics: Citroën
DS3 1.6 THP.
APRIL 2023
Getting to grips with Grease • Project
Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCi, Pt3 • Project
Fiat Panda 100HP, Pt6 • Ford Bonnet
Lock Fix • Buying + Owning: VW Golf
Mk6 2009-2016 • Product Test: 21 Car
Shampoos • Service Bay: Jeep Wrangler
JK 3.8 V6 • Electronic Diagnostics: Land
Rover Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6.
MARCH 2023
Glow Plugs • Project Ford Mondeo 2.0
TDCi, Pt2 • Project Fiat Panda 100HP,
Pt5 • Ford Bonnet Lock Fix • Buying
+ Owning: BMW Z4 2003-2008 &
2009-2017 • Residential Garage
Damp-Proofing • Service Bay: MINI F54
Clubman Cooper S 2.0 petrol • Electronic
Diagnostics: Kia Sportage 2.0 CRDi AWD.
FEBRUARY 2023
Cooling Systems • Project Ford Mondeo
2.0 TDCi, Pt1 • Project Fiat Panda
100HP, Pt4 • Buying + Owning: Volvo
XC60 2008-2017 & 2017-on • Past
Innovations • Service Bay: Kia Sportage
2.0 CRDi AWD • Electronic Diagnostics:
Citroën C4 1.6 HDi • Our Cars: 2013
BMW 5-series & 2007 Skoda Fabia TDI.
JANUARY 2023
Lighting – keep your vehicle street
legal • Project Fiat Panda 100HP,
Pt3 • Project Kia Sportage, Pt6 •
Buying + Owning: Mercedes-Benz
A-Class 2013-on • Love a Lock-up? •
Service Bay: Land Rover Freelander 2 •
Electronic Diagnostics: Jaguar XE 2.0D
• Xmas Fun!
DECEMBER 2022
Additives – should you use them?
• Project Fiat Panda 100HP, Pt2 •
Project Kia Sportage, Pt5 • Buying
+ Owning: MINI Clubman 2015-on •
MINI R50 Getrag 5sp Gearbox Repair
(Pt2) • Nine Screwdriver Sets on Test
• Service Bay: MG6 1.9D • Electronic
Diagnostics: Citroën C6 2.7 V6 HDi.
10 pages of your car problems solved by our experts
JAGUAR AJV8
TIMING
CHAIN
RENEW
MERC SLK PROJECT
DISCS
& PADS
Brembo replacements
SAVING YOU MONEY SINCE 1958

BMW5SERIES
ROAD SAVE MONEY on your
SPRING MOTORING 8

50
PAGE SPECIAL

COST
VAUXHALL
ASTRA 1.6
SAVERS
BRAKE TOP TIPS
HOSE ✓DRIVING
■
TECHNIQUES
✓MAINTENANCE
■
✓BUYING
■
& SELLING
✓5 FALSE
■
ECONOMIES

WIN June 2022 £4.70

KELSEYmedia

Parts BUYING USED TECHNOLOGY SERVICING

Washers
3 prizes Peugeot OTA Audi
worth over

£541 RCZ updates RS3 2.5

SEE PAGE 24 2010-2015 models Over-the-air mods 5-cylinder tasks

NOVEMBER 2022
Dream Workshop (32 extra pages) •
Project Fiat Panda 100HP, Pt1 • Project
Kia Sportage, Pt4 • MINI R50 Getrag
5sp Gearbox Repair (Pt1) • Service Bay:
VW Polo 1.2 TSI • Buying + Owning:
Nissan X-Trail 2014-2021 • Electronic
Diagnostics: Ford Focus 1.0 EcoBoost •
Readers' Motors: Jaguar X-TYPE.
OCTOBER 2022
Diagnostics for Beginners • Project Kia
Sportage, Pt3 • Project Mercedes-Benz
SLK 350, Pt6 • Timing Belt Clinic:
Jaguar XF 2.2D • Buying + Owning:
Vauxhall Mokka/X 2012-2019 •
Spotlight: Shock/Contact Alarm •
Service Bay: Porsche Cayman • Our
Cars: Vauxhall Meriva and BMW 5-series.
SEPTEMBER 2022
Maximsing your Brakes • Project Kia
Sportage, Pt2 • Project Mercedes-Benz
SLK 350, Pt5 • 10 Inspection Cameras
on Test • Buying + Owning: Ford
Mondeo 2014-2022 • Spotlight: Shock/
Contact Alarm • Service Bay: Land
Rover Defender 2.5 • Summer Fun •
Our Cars: Ford Focus Mk1 and PT Cruiser.
AUGUST 2022
Air Suspension • Project Kia Sportage,
Pt1 • Project Mercedes-Benz SLK 350,
Pt4 • Made in 1962 • Buying +
Owning: Jaguar F-PACE 2016-on •
Vauxhall Zafira B Central Locking Fix •
Service Bay: Skoda Yeti 2.0 TDI 4x4 •
Our Cars: BMW 730i and 318i Compact
and Ford Focus Mk1.
JULY 2022
Electric & Hybrid Vehicle Supplement •
Buying Salvage • Project Mercedes-Benz
SLK 350, Pt3 • Project Vauxhall Astra J,
Pt6 • Product Test: 15 Oil & Fluid Drains
Aids • Buying + Owning: Chrysler 300C
2005-2010 • Living with a Bentley or
Rolls-Royce • Our Cars: BMW 5-Series
F10 and a rescued Citroën Xsara.
JUNE 2022
50 Cost Savers • Project Mercedes-Benz
SLK 350, Pt2 • Project Vauxhall Astra J,
Pt5 • Over-the-Air Updates • Timing
Chain Clinic: Jaguar AJ-V8 • BMW 5-Series
Front Coil Spring Replacement • Buying
+ Owning: Peugeot RCZ 2010-2015 •
Service Bay: Audi RS3 2.5 • Our Cars:
Chrysler PT Cruiser and Skoda Fabia TDI.

BINDERS

MAY 2022
Bargain Buys for under £10k • Oil Analysis
• Product Test: Battery Chargers • Project
Mercedes-Benz SLK 350, Pt1 • Project
Vauxhall Astra J, Pt4 • Tailgate Strut
Mount Repair • Driving Towards 2030:
Synthetic Fuel • Buying + Owning: Saab
9-5 2010-2012 • Service Bay: Renault
Megane 2.0 Sport RS.
APRIL 2022
Get your Car Back on the Road • Project
Vauxhall Astra J, Pt3 • Project Citroën DS3,
Pt6 • Nissan Qashqai Mk1 Boot Handle
Repair • MINI R50/R52/R53 Strut Top
Mounts • Driving Towards 2030: Hyundai
BAYON on Test • Buying + Owning: Honda
Jazz Mk2 • VAG W12 Engine Profile •
Service Bay: 2004 Rover 45 2.0 TD.
MARCH 2022
Towing – the basics • Project Vauxhall
Astra J, Pt2 • Project Citroën DS3, Pt5
• A Guide to Rustproofing • Buying +
Owning: Audi TT Mk2 • Product Test:
27 Glass Cleaners • Service Bay: 2002
Suzuki Jimny 1.3 • 10 pages of Q&As •
Our Cars – BMW 5-Series F10 and VW
Touareg V6 TDI.
FEBRUARY 2022
DSG 7-speed Clutch Replacment • Project
Vauxhall Astra J, Pt1 • Project Citroën DS3,
Pt4 • Top 10 ULEZ Compliant Cars • Timing
Belt Clinic: Fiat Punto 1.4 • Buying +
Owning: Lexus CT 200h • BMW 4-Cylinder
Thermostat Swap • Service Bay: 2016
Mercedes-AMG C63 V8 • Spotlight: Revive
Turbo Cleaner • Readers' Motors: Jaguar XF.
JANUARY 2022 £10.95 (UK)
Rubber Bushes • TPMS • Project Citroën plus postage
DS3, Pt3 • Project Jaguar XF 3.0D, Pt6 • higher rates for overseas
Clutch Clinic: Toyota Corolla Verso 1.8 • holds 12 issues
Buying + Owning: Jeep Renegade Mk1 •
Bumper Trouble – fixing common problems Visit: shop.kelsey.
• Guide to Fasteners – nuts, bolts, screws & co.uk/product/
washers • Service Bay: 2010 Fiat 500 1.2 • car-mechanics-binder
Driving Towards 2030: Mazda MX-30.
 E XCLUSIV E CH RISTM AS SU B SCRI PTIO N O FFER

1
The UK’s only magazine with
essential advice on maintaining
and repairing cars
2
Get each issue delivered directly
to your door in 100% plastic-free
packaging

3
Save 52% on an annual *

subscription

4
Never miss an issue of your
must-have magazine

5
Buy for someone special
or treat yourself!

12 ISSUES
6
PLUS, RECEIVE A FREE MEGUIAR’S

JUST
CAR CLEANING KIT WORTH £99

£42.99*
SUBSCRIBING IS EASY!
VISIT SHOP.KELSEY.CO.UK/XMAS23CME
SCAN THE QR CODE AND GO DIRECTLY
CALL 01959 543 747 AND QUOTE ‘XMAS23CME’
Terms & Conditions: *UK Direct debit offer only. Offer ends 24th December 2023. Your subscription will start with the next available issue and you will receive 12 issues in a year. Prices correct at time of print and subject to change. For full terms and conditions, visit shop.kelsey.co.uk/
terms. If you decide to cancel your subscription we will put a stop to any further payments being taken and will send the remaining issues that you have already paid for. Gift is for UK only and subject to availability. Gifts will not be despatched until payment has successfully been taken.
Images for illustrative purposes; substitutes may be supplied. Please allow 28 days for delivery of gift.
 In my
Humble Opinion
Despite a promising start, the former project Saab 9-3 has been disposed of.
You win some,
you lose some
 Since passing my driving test in 1989, I promise you that
I’m not kidding when I say I have owned well over a hundred
cars – and that excludes company cars. From Austin to Triumph
and even Communist Soviet clunkers including a pair of old
Ladas – there’s a good chance I have either owned it or had
a steer. There is a knack to running and buying these things
and it’s called risk assessment. I strongly recommend that if
your mechanical acumen is even slightly lacking, buying and
running older motors is perhaps not ideal. Readers who know
my rambles probably know by now that I do like an old Rover
or Saab. The numbers are incredible, but I have held the keys
to probably more than fifty BL to MG Rover vehicles and eight
Saab’s. Unless you are driving exotic or proper classic cars,
you don’t constantly swap vehicles to make a living (unless
trading is your gig), what I mean is they will always cost you
money. Any second-hand car is, in essence, an open wound
that bleeds you of the folding stuff rather than claret.
Editor Martyn and myself have known each other a
good number of years now, and two of the CM project cars
have ended up passing over to my stewardship. On many
occasions I have often been known to steer clear of buying
or selling cars to friends or family, sometimes it really isn’t
worth the hassle. It’s far too easy for pals to become enemies
or members of the family to fall out – sometimes over the
most trivial things. I once ended up selling to a close friend
of a relative a tidy Vauxhall Vectra for barely more than what
it owed me due to my Uncle’s pressure to do so. Not only
did I make next to nothing but after a short while, the Vectra
became more unreliable than a local politician and with more
peer pressure almost made me offer some kind of unlimited
cover warranty… with breakdown cover thrown in too. So,
like I have just said, friends and family members may well
seem like a bet, but boy can it turn round and bite you on the
behind – despite your transparency or honesty.
PAS explosion
Ed and myself are big and wise enough to fully understand the
risks, so the first project car I took on, as many will remember,
was the Copperleaf Red Rover 75 Connoisseur SE 2.0 V6.
Overall, that one was a joy to own – although it wasn’t all plain
sailing to start with. There were a couple of water leaks to fix
including one that kept the SRS warning light on owing to two
inches of water sloshing around under the carpet, and latterly,
the power steering pump quite literally exploded showering
the engine bay, the whole nearside front suspension and my
driveway with PAS fluid. Apart from those hiccups mentioned,
the car never missed a beat and was a sheer joy to effortlessly
trundle around thanks to its creamy smooth quad-cam free-
revving V6 engine. To be truthful, I got a little bored of it in
the end and after advertising it for sale, it was snapped up in
a heartbeat by a local Rover enthusiast who knows more than
your usual average punter about Rovers ‘last chance’ saloon.
Then came the Saab 9-3 Aero TTiD Sportwagon. At the
start Martyn didn’t want to sell it to me and looking back
98 Car Mechanics December 2023
now, I can totally see why. Despite a huge catalogue of work,
modifications and parts put on during its spell as a CM project
car, it still refused to behave properly. I was convinced that my
little black book of dodgy contacts could work some magic,
perhaps spotting or discovering something other mechanics
had missed or not thought of. Despite the horrendous smoking
when the DPF was regenerating, there really wasn’t much
awry with the way the Saab ran. It was fast and commendable
in terms of fuel economy. I still regard the Sportwagon shape
of the Saab 9-3 to be one of the nicest looking estate cars
produced in the last twenty years. Sadly, though in the GM era,
as Saabs got prettier, the quality and reliability declined.
I called upon the services of not one but three Saab
specialists, two of which did a chunk of work for mates’ rates
and two of which I would trust with my life. On every occasion
the outcome was only temporary, and, in the end, I had to draw
the line after sinking the best part of a grand over six months
in desperately trying to get the bugger running right. No
matter what was done, what was swapped, what was smacked
with a hammer, she just kept misbehaving. No matter how
much I loved the car, of which I did and to some extent still
do, there comes a point when you have to let go. Think of it
like being married to the most good looking, kindest, funniest
and caring partner in the world only for them to have a nasty
habit of punching you in the face every now and then as you
slept – eventually you’d pack your bags and leave. Advertised
on Facebook Marketplace, it was snapped up by two Romanian
lads looking to strip it down and send the parts out east.
Back to friends and family again. My mother-in-law decided
to pack in driving after a minor health scare. We both went
over and beyond keeping an eye on her after she came home
from hospital. Despite offering her money for it, she insisted
on giving us her 2003 VW Passat 1.8T SE which so far hasn’t
missed a beat or cost a coin beyond petrol. Not exactly the
usual car for an elderly lady knocking on eighty but we’ll
formally introduce it in the mag soon.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME
PERFORMANCE
IS OUR DRIVE.

BILSTEIN B12 BILSTEIN EVO R

BILSTEIN B14 BILSTEIN EVO T1
BILSTEIN EVO S BILSTEIN B16

BILSTEIN PERFORMANCE
BILSTEIN performance suspension systems put you at the forefront of
driving pleasure. We combine the best technologies, components and parts
for you, your style and your demands. The same ones that we develop and
test for our customers like Porsche, BMW or Mercedes-Benz and refine them
to perfection in our BILSTEIN road tests under motor sports conditions.

performance.bilstein.com
 We sell everything but . . .

WWW.CAARPARTS.CO.UK

WITH OVER 350,000 PARTS & ACCESSORIES CLICK & COLLECT

FROM OVER 300 INDEPENDENT MEMBER STORES

Not all member stores currently offer buy online / collect in store but all stores offer a telephone ordering service.