(Curtesy of the PenskeGuy)

Thin wall and solid cube calibration:

First thing is to get the software calibrated to the hardware. Leave models on Thingiverse for
another day, as they most often have their own problems. Keep It Simple.

• Make a nice test piece (something like a squat

rectangle is good, maybe 15x15x5mm). The
Cube should be solid (not modeled walls). This
will be your calibration cube used in two tests.
• In the Material tab:
o Enter the exact filament stock diameter in
the Material tab (it often isn't exactly
3mm) even cheap calipers are very
helpful for this step.
o Extrusion Width = Nozzle Diameter.
o Set the Flow Tweak to 1.0
• In the Printer > Hardware tab:
o Make sure you have correct Firmware
chosen
o I turn off Fan can do PWM for RPM
percentages set in the Material
o Set the Loop / Solid Infill Overlap to 0.5
• Print what is known as a "Thin Wall Calibration".
o Set the Style to: Loops = 1, Skin
Thickness = 0, Infill = Hollow
o Measure the printed wall thickness and
compare it to your Extrusion Width
o Adjust Flow Tweak to make these equal.

• Print what is known as a "Solid Cube Calibration"

o Set the Style to: Loop = 1, Skin Thickness
= Extrusion Width, Infill = 100%
o Based on the interior of the part (not near
the loops), adjust the Flow Tweak to

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 minimize gaps between the rows, ridging
or bulging of the top and sides.
o Based on the loops/solid interface, adjust
the Loop / Solid Infill Overlap to obtain
good contact between the Perimeter and
the Infill.

You will possibly see that the Flow Tweak for one is optimal in one direction, while the Flow
Tweak for the other is opposite; but they shouldn't be very far apart from each other. This
should be done for each material, as the diameters and melting points change.

These tests set the baseline, upon which KS makes its calculations for paths, feeds and flows.
After that, more complex prints can be tried and other adjustments can be made in order to
refine a print.

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