PATTERN MAKING

AND FASHION
DESIGN

PRACTICAL MANUAL

INSTITUTE OF HOME ECONOMICS

UNIVERSITY OF DELHI
 INDEX

S.N0. Assignments Signature

1 Seams
Plain Seam
Lapped Seam
French Seam
Run & Fell Seam
2
Finishing of Raw Edges

Pink and Stitch

Turn and Stitch
Edge Machining

3 Gathers with Belt

4 Pleats
Knife Pleats
Box Pleats
5 Plackets
Even hem placket
Wrap and projection placket

6 Bias Binding

7 Bias Facing

8
Dart Manipulation
Single Dart Series
Double Dart Series

9 Basic Bodice Block – Self

10 Basic Plain Sleeve Block - Self

Sleeve Variations - Cap Sleeve
Puffed Sleeve

11 Collars- One piece stand and fall collar

Mandarin Collar
Peterpan Collar

1
 Basic Shirt collar

12
Basic Slim Skirt Block - Self
Skirt Variations - A-line Skirt
Flared Skirt

13 Article- Skirt
Kurta
Date
Signature

2
 SEAMS
A seam is a basic structural element of any garment. It is a means of joining two fabric pieces
together. It converts a flat two-dimensional fabric to a shaped three-dimensional garment, The
types of seams may differ from garment to garment. These may be straight or shaped. Suitability
of a seam to a garment is determineq by:

• Fabric type (firmness, weight and texture)

• The position or shape of the seam on the garment
• The age of fhe probable wearer

TYPES OF SEAMS

Seams can be classified into different categories such as:

• Plain seam
• Enclosed seam- ridge and flat

• Decorative seam

I. PLAIN SEAM: Plain seam is the most common seam observed in garments, This is the
method of joining two pieces of fabric. It can be used for straight or curved seams and
on all materials. This is often the first step in working on more elaborate sear-H
treatments. The exposed raw edges in a plain seam can be finished in a number of ways
to make a seam look neater. It also enhances its durability and prevents the seam
allowance from fraying. However, the finish selected will depend on the garment's
fabrig, its style, its expected price and the durability expected.
II. ENCLOSED SEAM: Enclosed seam is the one in which all seam allowances are hidden
within the seam and hence a separate seam finish is not required. These are most
appropriate for garments/fabrics where seams show e.g. unlined jackets and sheer
fabrics. They are also ideally suited to garments that receive rugged treatment e.g. jeans.
Proper trimming and pressing are important if the resulting seam is to be sharp and flat
rather than lumpy and uneven. Enclosed seams can be of two types- ridge and flat.
(a) Ridge seams: Ridge shams are the ones which stand away from the garment and enclose the
raw edges within its construction process. It looks like a plain seam from the right side but
appears like a tuck from the back side of the garment. It is constructed in such a manner so
that a narrow seam is contained within a larger one, producing a very-neat interior and
exterior for sheer fabrics. These can be seen in children's outer wear, lingerie and in inside
pockets for high priced men's wear. French seam is an example of ridge seam. It is done
only on straight seam, or those with very slight curves. For greater curves this seam 'turns
out to be too bulky. It is

to fray badly.

3
(b) Flat seams: Flat seams lie flat on the garment', hence do not rub against the wearer's body.
These seams are very sturdy. Run and fell seam is an example of flat seam. It is used for
sports clothing, denims, reversible clothing and children's inner wear. It encloses the seam
allowances by a second row of stitching that hides all the raw edges. Two rows of stitching
can be seen on one side of the seam. This seam can be used on •all fabric weights, except
for very heavy weight or thick fabrics.

DECORATIVE SEAMS: Decorative seams emphasize the construction lines and are often
used as strong design feature. Sometimes in decorative seams a stitching line is made very
prominent by highlighting it in contrasting color. Slot seam and Lapped seam are examples of
decorative seams. Lapped seam is constructed by lapping one fabric layer over another before
creating a seam. It is most useful for the fabrics that do not ravel. This seam can be seen in
pockets of shirts or on yoke's in the garments. The lapped seam joins three thicknesses or fabric
layers from the face of the garment. Since it is done on the face of the garment, it is a fast
construction technique. In designs involving points and corners, the lapped application can be
very economical in cost and time. A lapped seam can also be made with piping for decorative
purpose. Here a bias strip of contrasting color is placed between the two fabric layers. This
shows as piping on the right side.

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 PLAIN SEAM

AIM: - To learn and make samples of plain seam and its finishing.

MATERIAL REQUIRED: 14 samples of poplin fabric cut in 15 cm x 10 cm, matching color

thread, needlés (7/8 number), common pins, scissors, pinking shears, scale, eraser and sewing
machine.

PROCEDURE:
l . Take two sample pieces measuring 15 cm x 10 cm. Place the samples on top of each other. 2.
Mark a seam line at an allowance of 2.5 cm-from the raw edge parallel to the grain line.
Pin/ tack along this line. Place the pins with their heads pointing outwards (Figure 4.1 A). This
will help in easy removal of pins as machining is done along the marked seam line.

Pinning two fabric layers together Plain seam sample

Plain seam

3. Machine stitch along the marked sewing line, removing the pins in the process. Reinforce the
seam at beginning and end of stitching.
Prepare six more samples of plain seam as explained above and finish the seam allowances as
per the procedure given belovv;.

5
 FINISHING OF PLAIN SEAM

(i) Pinking: Pinking the raw edge is the simplest and the quickest way to finish a seam. By
using pinking shears the raw edge of seam allowance can be trimmed to get a zigzag finish
which prevents raveling.

Procedure
l . Take the first plain seam sample and cut both seam allowances together with pinking shears.

Finishing plain seam by pinking

wrong side (WS)

2. Iron the sample lightly from front and back side to smoothen the seam.

6
(ii) Stitched and pinked: This seam finish further reinforces seam allowances and prevents its
raveling.

Procedure

l . Take the second plain seam sample. Working from the wrong side, press the seam. open.
2. Place a line of stitching 0.5 CPI. from the edge of the seam allowance, then pink edge. Repeat
the same for the other side also.

Stitched and Pinked seam finish

7
(iii) Turned and Stitched: It is also called clean finish. This is a neat finish for light weight to
medium weight fabrics and is suitable for unlined jackets and seats of formal trousers.

Procedure

I . Take the third plain seam sample. Working from the wrong side, press the seam open.
2. Turn the seam allowance towards the underside by 0.5 cm and press. Stitch along the edge of
the fold, Repeat the same for the other side also.

Turned and-stitched seam finish

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(iv) Edge stitched:' Another way to finish raw edges is to edge stitch. Such a method will lock
the yarns in its place and will prevent the taw edges from raveling. It also gives a neat finish to
the seam allowance. This seam finish is quite often used in finishing seam allowance of sleeve
attached to arm hole. However, it should not be used on very light weight fabrics,

Procedure
I, Take the fourth plain seam sample. Work from the wrong side.

Edge stitched finish

2. Hold both the layers of seam allowance together and stitch close to the raw edges.

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(v) Overcast finish: Overcast seam finish can be done either with hand or with zig-zag machine
stitch. Row of diagonal stitches formed by over-casting prevents raw edges from raveling.

Procedure
l . Take the fifth plain seam sample, Working from the wrong side, press the seam open.
2. Using single thread, overcast at edge of each seam allowance such that the stitches are 0.5
cm. long and 0.5 cm away from each other.

Overcast finish

10
(vi) Overlockcd finishing: Overlocking is also a quick way to trim raw edges and give a neat
finish to the seam allowances. In the industry normally edges are finished by overlocking as
machine automatically cuts the raw ends and neatens the edge simultaneously.

Procedure
I Take the sixth sample of plain seam. Working from the wrong side, press the seam open.
2. Using an over lock machine, stitch the raw .edge of seam allowance of each of the two sides
separately. Iron from the right side to smoothen the seam.

Overlocked finish
12
,

13
ENCLOSED SEAM
MATERIAL REQUIRED: 4 samples of poplin fabric cut in 12 cm x 10 cm, pins, scissors,
pinking shears, matching color thread, needles

PROCEDURE:
(a) Ridge seam: (French seam)

Procedure:

l . Take two sample pieces measuring 15 cm x 9 cm. Identify and 'mark grain lines on both
pieces. Place the Wrong sides of samples facing each other such that the grain lines are parallel
and raw edges match. Make a plain seam with a seam allowance of 0.5 cm and reinforce at
beginning and end.

Plain seam at 1 cm
R.S. ,• Right-side
W.S.,• Wrong-side

Trimming seam allowance Stitching seam at 0.75cm

French seam

3. Turn the seam to opposite side so that now the right sides of the fabric face each other
and the seam is visible at the edge. Iron the sample again.
4. Draw a straight stitch line again, I cm away from the edge of earlier seam which is
visible at the edge. Tack on this line and then machine stitch. This final seam will enclose•all
the raw edges. Press the seam to one side, towards the•back.

14
(b) Flat seam: (Run and fell seam)
Procedure:

l . Take two sample pieces measuring 15 cm x 9 gm. Identify and mark grain lines on both
pieces. Place the right sides' of gainples facing each other so that grain lines are parallel and
Inaw edges match. Make a plain seam with a seam allowance of 1.5 cm and reinforce at
beginning and end.

Seam line at 1 cm

2. Press the seam open, so that two seam allowances lie flat. Trim one of the seam allowances
to 0.5cm.

First seam

Trimming of one seam allowance to half width

3. Fold the seam allowance that has not been trimmed to half width (0.5 cm). Place it over the
trimmed allowance. Iron from right side so as to eliminate any excessive fabric getting stitched
along. Pin all the layers together. Edge stitch the fold so as to sew all fabric layers together.

First seam

Second seam

Wrong side Right Side

Wrong and Right Side of Run and fell seam

15
 LAPPED SEAM

MATERIAL REQUIRED: 2 samples of poplin fabric cut in I .5cm x 0.5, matching/

contrasting color thread, needles (7/8 number), common pins, scissors, pinking shears; scale,
eraser and sewing machine.

PROCEDURE:
1. Take two samples A and B measuring 15 cm x 7 cm. Mark I cm allowance towards the
length on both the samples. Mark the grain line also on both the samples. Take sample A
and fold the marked seam allowance inside.

Samples for lapped seam Seam allowance folded of sample A

2. Place the folded edge of sample A on the seam line marked on sample B so that the folded
edge and the seam line coincide.

Seam allowances overlapped Stitching on the folded edge

3. Now stitch along the edge of a fold so as to make a straight seam line.
POINTS TO REMEMBER

• Seam should be smooth with no pulls or puckers

• Keep correct seam allowance
• Once stitched, press the seams both from wrong and right sides
• The seam finish selected should prevent the fabric from raveling, rolling, or stretching
• The sean-l finish should not 'add bulk to the seam
• In case of over casting, try to keep the stitches regular and close together
• Always press before enclosing the seam with another row of stitching
• Do not use french seam for heavy fabrics; otherwise the seam will be bulky
• Seam should be made with matching thread; except for lapped seam where for decorative
purpose contrast colour thread may be used.

16
 DISPOSAL OF FULLNESS

In a well fitted garment, fullness of materials is an important style feature as well as necessity
for ease of movement. Darts, tucks, pleats and gathers are some of the techniques used for
introducing fullness in a garment. Fullness is added to a garment, for a better fit'& good
shape, for ease in body movements, to provide comfort and to make a garment„aesthetically
appealing.

Methods of Disposal of Fullness

Darts are construction details that shape fabric to the curves of the body. Darts can be straight
(for an easy fit) or curved (for a closer-to-the-body fit). Darts are typically found in the bust,
waist and hip areas, where the body is the most contoured.

Darts
PROCEDURE

l. Trace the dart (dart point, centre leg, side legs) on a 15 cm x 15 cm piece of fabric.
2. Fold the fabric on the centre leg of the dart, coinciding the other two legs.
3. Baste the dart from wider end, and tapering to the dart point
4. Machine stitch the dart leaving extra threads at the dart base end and also,at the dart
point for finishing.
S. Secure both ends of the dart with knot.

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 Gathers with Belt

Gathering is the process of drawing a given amount of fabric into predetermined, smaller area,
to create soft, even folds. Gathering most often occurs in a garment at waistline, cuffs or yoke,
or as ruffles. It is done after construction seams have been stitched, seam-finished and pressed.

PROCEDURE

Note: For adding gathers to a fabric, you need to take the fabric,at least twice the
required measurements.(For 15 x 15 cm ready sample, fabric size L- 15cm &W-30

1. Mark 1 5 x 30 cm on the piece of fabric and cut.

2. Mark the seam line at 1.5 cm from the top edge.
3. Make two rows of loose machine stitch. One at I cm and another at 2 cm. (Make sure
not to lock the stitching line on both the ends)
4. Pull together bobbin threads of both the stitching lines, spreading gathers evenly.
(finished size— 15 x 15 cm)

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 Pleats

Pleats are folds in fabric that provide controlled fullness. Pleating may occur as a single
pleat, as a cluster, or around an entire garment section. Basically, each pleat is folded along a
specific line, generally called the fold line, and the fold aligned with another line, the
placement line. Most pleats are formed by continuous piece of fabric onto itself.
Pleats can be folded in several different styles; the most common ones are:

• Knife pleat

• Box pleat

• Inverted pleat

Types of pleats

1. Knife pleats: Have edge line, one fold-line and one placement line; all the folds are
towards the same direction. Some gannents may have one cluster facing one way and
other facing the opposite

Procedure
1. Mark a rectangle of 1 5 x 45 cm on the fabric and cut
2. Mark 15 lines at the regular interval of 3 cm. (width - wise)
3. Fold the fabric
 2. Box pleats: Have two fold lines and two placements lines; the two folds of each pleat
are turned away one another. The back folds in box pleats are facing and may or may
not meet- it is not necessary.

PROCEDURE
Mark a rectangle of 15 cm x 42 cm on the fabric and cut.
2. Along the width, mark points at regular interval of 3 cm
3. Fold the fabric as shown in the diagram.
4. Make a straight seam along the width to secure the pleats.

Box Pleat
Inverted pleats: Have two fold lines and a common placement line. The two folds of each
pleat are turned toward each other and in this case they must meet. The back folds face
away from each other.

Procedure
1. Mark a rectangle of 15 cm x 27 cm on the fabric and cut.
2. Along with the width, mark the centre and make 3 parallel rows at a regular
interval of 3 cm, on the both sides of the centre.
3. Fold the fabric
4. Make a straight seam along the width to secure the pleats.
 PLACKETS
Plackets are the opening of a garment that facilitates putting it on and taking it off. These are
required in. garments which cannot be slipped into without an opening. It can be seen in skirts,
trousers, dresses, blouses etc.
Some commonly seen plackets are:
• Even hem placket
• Wrap over projection placket
• Continuous wrap placket

Even Hem Placket

This is one of the simplest forms of plackets and is usually made on those easy fit, upier
garments such as one piece dress, night suit uppers, tops, blouses etc. This placket can be
created either on the front or the back of the garment. The placket width is same on both the
pieces. Fasteners used on this placket can be button and button hole, fancy buttons and snap
fasteners.

PROCEDURE:
• To make a ready sample of 15cm x 15 cm, cut two pieces of fabric, with
length= 15cm by width=12 cm (7.5+ 1.5+ 3) as shown in the diagram.
• Mark grain line on both the pieces.
• Fold on the fold line, which is 3 cm from the selvage, as shown in the diagram
and iron it.
• Mark the notches on C.F. line at the upper and lower ends, and place the right
side over the left so that C.F. falls on C.F. (match the notches).
• Pin the placket together.
3_
Wrap over Projection Placket
This placket has two pieces, wrap and the projection. Wrap piece falls over the under placket
i.e the projection piece. This. is also called as wrap and strap plackets. Such a packet is made
in fitted garments such as saree blouse, bustier etc. Fasteners used are not visible on the right
ide. Hook and eye is one example of fastener that is used on this placket.

PROCEDURE:
l . To make a ready sample of 15cm x 15 cm, cut two pieces of fabric, with length—
1 5cm by 8.5 cm (7.5+ l ) as shown in the diagram.
2. Mark grain line on both pieces.
3. Cut placket pieces:-
i) Wrap: length 15 cm, width -= 4cm (2+ 1+ l ) ii)
Projection: length = 15 cm, width = 6 cm (4+ 1+ l)
4. For wrap, using plain seam, attach placket piece of wrap part with right sides facing
each other. Press the allowance and facing together to the left side, Fold inside and
hem.
5. For projection, using plain seam attach the placket piece of projection part with right
sides facing each other. Press the allowance and facing together to the right side. At 2
cm width fold in placket piece. Again fold the seam allowance and machine in groove.
Continuous Wrap Placket
This placket is usually done on the garment where only a small opening is desired. Generally
it is made on petticoats, baby frocks, at the waistline of the skirt portion which is to be joined
to the bodice. It is also made on the sleeve cuffs and skirt slits.

PROCEDURE:
l . To make a ready sample of 15cm x 15 cm, cut one piece of fabric with length= 15cm by
width=15 cm.
2. Mark grain line on this piece and also mark its centre line.
3. On the centre line mark a slit of 7 cm from the upper edge of fabric piece.
4. For placket piece, cut a fabric with length 17 cm (15+ 1+ l) and width = 6cm (1+

5. Start attaching placket piece with right sides facing each other, from ond end passing
through the tip and continued to the other end of the slit (this is why it is called as
continuous wrap).
6. Press the allowance and placket piece together, to one side. Fold inside and hem.
 FINISHING OF THE RAW EDGES
The two common ways to the finish the raw edges are:
Facing
Binding

FACING- It is a strip of fabr-ic used to finish a raw edge. It is turned fully inside of the
garment and is not visible on the right side of the garment. Facings can be of 2 type i.e. bias
facing and shaped facing.

BINDING — It is a strip of fabric used to finish a raw edge by turning half the width of the
fabric strip inside and the remaining half is seen on the right side of the garment.

Bias Strip

25
 BIAS FACING
Material Required: 15 cm*15 cm sample, a strip of true bias of 2.5 cm width
PROCEDURE:
I. Make a round neckline on the sample with 0.5 seam allowance.
2. Cut the curve and do stay stitching near the edge.
3. Tack the bias strip on the curve at 0.5 cm right sides facing each other
4. Stitch on this line and remove tacking.
5. Slash the seam allowance to permit spreading of seam allowance.
6. Turn the facing to wrong side and top stitch facing strip with seam allowance without
including the curved edge so that top searn is not visible on the right•side.
7. Hem or slip stitch the folded edge of the facing with the sample.

Bias Facing

26
 BIAS BINDING
Material Required: 15 cm x 1 5cm sample a bias strip of 2.5 cm
PROCEDURE
1. Make a round neckline on the sample.
2. Cut the curve and do stay stitching near the edge.
3. Take the bias strip on the curve at 0.5 cm right sides facing each other,
4. Stitch on the line and remove tacking.
5. Slash the seam gllowance to permit spreading of seam allowance.
6. Fold the other edge of the strip and place it on the stitching line so that some part of the
strip is visible on the right side also.
7. Ensure that seam allowance is completely hidden inside the binding.
8. Hem the binding through the stitching line.

27
 DART MANIPULATION

A Dart may be transferred to any location around the pattern's outline from a designated pivotal
point without affecting the size or fit of the garment.

The Dart excess can be in the form of gathers, pleats, tucks, darts, style lines, cowls, ease in
ann hole or flare.

Dart manipulation introduces the slash-spread and Pivotal-transf% pattern making techniques
in transferring the dart excess from one location to another for design variations. It is the
beginning of the pattern manipulating process for generating design patterns.

A series of guidelines are drawn on the given diagram of basic bodice front pattern. The
guidelines establish common areas for dart relocation and for generating designs.

Dart Locations

There are two methods of flat pattern making:

a) Slash and Spread Method
b) Pivotal-Transfer Method

28
Slash Spread Method
In this unit we Will be only discussing slash-spread technique with single dart, the pattern be
slashed* cut, and manipulated to generate new pattern A traced copy of the original working
pattern is used, the original is never altered. After the pattem is slashed and spread, it is placed
on another pieqe of marking paper.

We can shift waist dart to Centre front waist dart, centre front neck dart, mid shoulder dart,
French dart.

Centre Front Waist

Trace the charted pattern cross mark centre front waist dart. Label dart legs A and B Draw
slash line from centre front waist to bust point.

29
Slash pattern frÖm centre front waist to, not through, bust point.

• Close dart legs A and B. Tape.

• Place pattern on paper and retrace.
• Centre dart point should be h inch from bust point
• Draw dart legs to dart point.

30
 Double Dart Series
Waist and shoulder control sloper

31
 Double Dart Series
Waist and Armhole partial control sloper

32
 Double Dart Series
Center front and shoulder partial control sloper

33
 Double Dart Series
Side Seam and waistline partial control sloper
 BASIC BODICE BLOCK

Measurements:
Age:

Round waist (R. W):

Bodice length:

Pivot point:
Size of the paper: L x W

Length: For Front: bodice length + 2 cm

For Back: bodice length
Width: 1/2 R.B + 2.5 cm ease

Procedure:
Make a block ABCD, where AC=BD=1/2 R.B + 2.5 cm and length. Ensure
that all intersections are at right angle.
2. Divide AC and BD into 1/2 and mark EF.
3. Label ABFE block as Back and CDFE as Front bodice.
4, Go 2 cm down from F and D and mark F' and D'. Then join F' D'.
5. Divide Back width into 3 equal parts and label as GH and IJ.
6, Divide Front width into 3 equal parts and label as KL and MN.
7. Divide the length AB and CD into half and mark OP.
8. Divide AO and CP into half and mark QR. Further, divide AQ and CR into half and mark
ST. Divide AS and CT into half and mark UV.
9. On intersection of EF and OP, mark a point X.
10. Side seam
From X, go 1 cm towards Back and mark X' : Make a straight line from X' till X" on BD. Go
2.5 cm away from X" towards B and mark as Z. Go 2.5 cm away from F' towards D' and
mark as Z'. Now join X' Z and X' Z' to make side seam.
1 1. Front shoulder line
From M, go I cm away towards C and mark M'. Make a straight line from M', crossing the
intersection of KL and VU and extend it by 2.5 cm. Mark the end point as V'.
12. Back shoulder line
From G, go I cm away towards A and mark G'. Make a straight line from G', crossing the
intersection of IJ and UV and extend it by 2.5 cm. Mark the end point as U'.
13. Front neckline
Join M' with R, using a French curve.
14. Back neckline
Join G' with U, using a French curve.
1 5. Front armsyce (armhole)
At intersection of KL and RQ, go 0.75 cm towards Q and mark R'. Join V', R' and X' using
a French curve.
1 6
. E.æls-æus.y.gg-I.æubQ.l.É)

At intersection of IJ and QR, go 1.5 cm towards R and mark Q'. Join U',Q' and X' using a
French curve.

a) From A, mark a point I equal to the lerwth of the pivot point. Similarly, frolh C, mark
a point Il equal to the length of the pivot point.
 b) Join and Il in a straight dotted line.
c) On intersection of MN and I Il, mark point l . From 1, go 1 cm away towards the side
seam on the pivot line i.e. I Il and mark a point Y. Now, Y is our pivot point from where
the dart radiates.
18. Darts
a) Front armhole dart

From Y, make a straight line falling on the deepest curve of front armhole. Make sure
the centre line of the dart is perpendicular: to the armhole. Make 2 dart legs of 0.75
cm each, ending 2.5 cm away from Y on point a.
b) Front side seam dart

On X' Z' , go 10 cm down and mark a poipt 3.Now join 3 with Y by making a straight
line. Make 2 dart legs of I cm each, ending 2.5 cm away from Y on point b.
c) Waist line darts
Back On intersection of GH and I Il, mark a point 2. Now make 2 dart legs of required
width (Note- for dart calculations, use formula- paper width h R. W). Back

dart will have narrower width as compared to the Front.

Front — From N, go I cm towards front side seam and mark a point 5. Now join Y and
5 in a straight line. Go I cm down towards 5 on line Y5 and mark point C. From C,
Inake 2 dart legs of required width ending on F' D'.
19. Mark the grain line on both Front and Back, 'write down all the measurements and do the
labeling as shown in the figure.
38
 BASIC PLAIN SLEEVE BLOCK

Measurements:
Age:
•Length (L) of the sleeve: LSP to the required length (AC=BD)
Width(W) of the sleeve: 1/2 Round bust — 5.5 cm (AB=CD)
Bodice length:
Size of the paper: L x W

Procedure:
l. Make a block ABCD, where AB= CD—width of the sleeve and AC=BD=length of the sleeve.
2. Divide AB and CD into h and mark EF.
3. For cap height (AG=BH), take % of the bodice length.
4. Join EG and EH and mark ACFE as Front and BDFE as Back.
5. For Front armsyce (armhole)-
a) Divide EG into 4 equal parts and mark them as 1,2,3.
b) Go I cni down at land 1 cm up at 3.
c) Starting from G, make a smooth 'S' curve, joining I ' , 2, 3' and E.
6. For Back armsyce (armhole)-
a) Divide EH into 4 equal parts and mark them as 4,5,6.

39
 b) Go 0.5 cm down at 4 and 1.25 cm up at 6.
c) Starting from E, make a smooth 'S' curve, joining 6',5'(1.5 cm away from S), 4' and
H.
7. Take 2.5 cm inwards from C and D and mark C 5 and D'. Now join C' with E and D' with
H to make underarm seam.
8. Mark the grain line on both Front and Back, write down all the measurements and do the
labeling as shown in the figure.

(Note: LSP — Lower shoulder point.)

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 CAP SLEEVE

Procedure:
Fold the adult's plain sleeve from the centre and trace its Front and Back on fold of a brown
paper.
2. From point A, on the underarm go 2 cm down and mark a point B.
3. From B, go in by I cm and mark a point C.
4. From C, make a straight line finishing at the fold of the paper at point D.

5. From E i.e. on the sleeve cap go I cm down and mark a point F.

6. From F, redraw Front and Back armsyce or armhole.

41
7. From D, go up by 3 cm and mark a point G.
8. Join G and C in a smooth curve.
9. Cut the pattem with back armsyce while still on fold.
10. Open the fold and now cut the front armsyce.
1 1 . Mark the grain line in the.centre and write down all the relevant information as shown in
the figure.

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 PUFFED SLEEVE

Procedure:
Take Adult's sleeve block and divide Front biscep line in two equal parts so that AB=AC. 2.
Fold a brown paper and the sleeve block.
3. Place the folded sleeve away from the brown paper fold in such a manner that

4. From D, go up by 5 cm and mark a point I, Similarly, From G, go down by 3 cm and mark

a point J,
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5. On underarm seam BK, go 2 ctrl up from K and mark a point L.
6. Join I and B in a smooth curve.

7. Join J and L in a smooth curve.

8. Cut the pattern with back armsyce while still on fold.
9. Open the fold and now cut the front armsyce.
10. Mark the grain line in the centre and write down all the relevant informatidn as shown in
the figure.
TWO PIECE STAND AND FALL COLLAR

45
MÄNDARIN COLLAR
 PETERPAN COLLAR

BASIC SHORT COLLOR

47
BASIC SLIM SKIRT BLOCK
Measurements:

Round hip (R.H):

Round waist (R. W):
Hip length (H.L) or hip level:
Skirt length (S. L):
Procedure:
49
 Make a block ABCD, where AB=1/2 (R.H + 5 cm ease). Make AB=CD and
AC=BD=length.
2. From A go down towards C and mark E so that AE—Hip length, Make BF—AE, Now join
E and F.
3. Divide AB into half and mark G. Similarly, divide CD into half and mark H. Now join GH.
Here, Label AGCH as back and BGDH as front.
4. From G, go 3 cm away towards B and mark a point I, Similarly, from G, go 3 cm away
towards A and mark a point J.
5. From A, go -l cm down towards E and mark a point A'. Similarly, from B, go I cm down
towards F and mark a point B'.
6. Join A 'J and B' I using inward curve of hip curve (a wooden device to make waist and hip
curves in pattern making). From outward curve of hip curve, join J with O and I with O to
make the hip curve.
7, Divide A' J into three equal parts and mark points I and 2. Similarly, divide B' I into three
equal parts mark points 3 and 4.
8. On front and back, make dart centre perpendi€ular to the waist (because the dart centre is
perpendicular , darts might not be parallel to each other)

Dart centre on front

a) From 3, go 10 cm down by maintaining the right angle.
b) From 4, go 12 cm down by maintaining the right angle.
Dart centre on back
a) From l , gQ 14 cm down by maintaining the right angle.
b) From 2, go 12 cm down by maintaining the right angle.

9. Dart calculation
For example — If h (Round hip + 5 cm) is h (85+5 cm)=45 cm i.e. paper width. Front and
back width would be 22.5 cm, i.e. AG=GB=22.5 cm. After reducing the width to 3 cm, (i.e.
after taking in GI and GJ) both front and back become 22.5-3 cm= 19.5 cm. Now, 1/4
of the round waist calculation will be used to calculate dart intake of front or. back. Let's
suppose 1/4 round waist is-64/4=16 cm. So, 19.5-16=3.5 cm. Make centre front or centre
back dart 2 cm wide and side seam dart .5 cm wide in each back and front as shown in the'
figure,
10. Mark the grain line on both Front and Back, write down all the measurements and do the
labeling as shown in the figure.
SKIRT VARIATIONS

A-line Skirt

51
Flared Skirt

52
Skirt

53
Kurta

54