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NISTRYOFEDUCATI
ON,HERI
TAGE&ARTS
CURRI
CULUM DEVELOPMENTUNI
T
The Ministry of Education owns the copyright to this Year 5 Textbook. Schools may reproduce this in part or in full for classroom
purposes only. Acknowledgement of the CDU Section of the Ministry of Education copyright must be included on any
reproductions. Any other use of this textbook must be referred to the Permanent Secretary for Education through the Director
Curriculum Advisory Services.
The Ministry of Education, Fiji wishes to acknowledge the contribution made by Mrs. Komera Tuicakau
in the completion of this text.
Steps in shading 23
Types of shading 34
- Hatching
- Contour hatching
- Cross Hatching
- Scumbling
- Stipling
- Activities
BIBLIOGRAPHY 45
APPENDIX 46
Revisit the topics you are not familiar with as they are all related, understanding one further enhances
your understanding of the others. It is our intention to cover all the Art Elements by the end of your
primary school years.
ART ELEMENTS
As mentioned earlier. The central focus for Year 5 is VALUE. Here, our attention will be on 2D figures
and shading them to give the 3D illusion. Therefore, our focus will be on drawing and you will need
good art pencils to use throughout the year.
You are introduced to different art pencils under the sub – heading, shading with pencils. Your learning
will be further enhanced if you have access to the right materials.
FORM
Whereas Value/Tone refers to the darkness or lightness of a picture. When value /tone is applied in
drawing, it re-emphasize the 3D aspect of the item drawn. In other words value is added to a 2D drawn
object to emphasize its 3D image.
VALUE
Value creates depth within a picture making an object look three dimensional
with highlights and cast shadows, or in a landscape where it gets lighter in
value as it recedes to the background giving the illusion of depth.
ARTICULATES
FORM AND
VOLUME
DESIGNATES
DEFINRS
ASPACE VALUE SURFACE
QUALITY AND
TEXTURE
POTRAYS A
MOOD
The use of value is the main tool for drawing of three-dimensional figures. It enhances the form
and the volume of the object drawn.
It is also important to observe value from nature to enhance the students’ perception on
quality and texture.
In regards to mood, value is usually referred to as a dark area expressing a sad or depressed
feeling and vice versa.
Normally, value in space is limited to forms as being associated with dark and spaces associated
with light. This however limits the creative possibilities and should not be regarded as a
convention or a basic thumb rule.
Make your value scale. Values are the lights and darks of your drawing. A value scale will help
you determine the different depths of your shaded drawing. A complete value scale will range
from white all the way to black with many shades of gray in between. However, most objects
only use 5 adjacent values on the value scale.
To create a value scale, you should start by drawing a long rectangle. You can do this on the
corner of your drawing. Or, if you prefer, draw it on a separate piece of paper.
Break the rectangle up into 5 squares, numbering them 1 through 5. You can do more than 5 as
you grow in your shading skills, but 5 shades in the scale gives you a place to start.
Intensify the darkness for each number: 1 should be completely white, 2 should be lightly
shaded, 3 should represent moderate shading, 4 should be dark, and 5 should be as dark as
you can get it.
You should not have both white and black on your shading scale, unless your subject is under a
very strong, direct light source. Otherwise you should be working with shades of gray only.
(ii) GREY
(iii) BLUE
(iv)
Tint is adding white to a colour (hue) to create lighter values such as light blue
or pink.
Shade is adding black to a colour(hue) to create dark values such as dark blue
or dark red.
- Colour + White
- Colour + Black
TINT
SHADE
3. In groups, enlarge the diagrams on a white chart and do the same activity.
Display on the classroom walls.
Fill a sheet of scrap paper with broad marks made with the side of the lead until you’re
comfortable working with a pencil held this way.
Without colours we can shade with Grey Pencils. This is easier as pencils come in
range from the lightest to the darkest.
Artist pencils come in a range of hardness and softness. This is marked on the pencil by a "B" or
"H". The mark "B" refers to soft graphite, and is typically available in 8B, 6B, 4B, and 2B with
8B being the softest. "H" refers to a hard pencil, with "8H" being the hardest and "2H" being the
softest.
For the best shading, use the softest pencil you have available. This will allow you to blend the
pencil easily, while a hard pencil will be very difficult to shade with.
Typical school pencils are HB, which is a middle ground of hardness/softness. You can use an
HB pencil if it is all you have available, but softer pencils will be easier to work with.
Paper that is too smooth (printer paper) or too rough (construction paper) will be very difficult to
shade. If you can, use a good drawing paper.
Pencil Ranges
Light/Dar Rang
k e
2H
H
Lightest …….Darkest
F
HB
2B
3B
4B
5B
6B
7B
8B
2H is the lightest and 8B being the darkest. They are available at all bookshops. It is
advisable that you have at least 4 range of Pencils, preferably H, B, 3B, and 5B or
H,2B, 4B and 6B.
1. With your 4 range of Pencils shade in the boxes below, the first box will be
white and the last will be black. In between you are to shade in your range of
Pencils.( when shading use short strokes)
white H black
3. Shadow Drawing
On a Sunny day, take a clear white paper(A4), and a Pencil and do the
following.
i. Place the paper below a leaf/flower. The shadow will fall on the paper.
What colour is the shadow? ______________________________.
ii. Use a fine leaf/grass/flower, place your paper underneath and quickly
sketch the outline of the shadow. Using the darkest range of Pencil that
1. Highlight
2. Transitional light (middle values)
3. Core of the shadow
4. Reflected light
5. Cast shadow
They go according to the different shades with highlight being white and cast shadow
having the darkest shade.
The first thing you need to determine is the source of light, once you determine the
light, directly opposite will be the cast shadow, your highlight will be on the same side as
the light, and in between the cast shadow and highlight is where you will place the
transitional light, core of the shadow and the reflected light.
Also important will be your value scale, this will be your guide in the shades that you are
going to use.
1.
Source: wikihow
1
Choose the right supplies. Although drawing can be done with a (HB) regular school pencil
and printer paper, for complex shading it is necessary to use specialized artist pencils. You can
find inexpensive artist graphite pencils at most bookshops. If you are able, find sturdy drawing
paper with a fine grain to help absorb the shading you will be doing.
2
Create a line drawing of your subject. Use an object in real life or take a photograph of your
subject, and print a physical copy of it. Make sure that your subject is still, and that you have
plenty of time to get a good outline of it.
Look around your home for ideas. Household objects like flowers, plants, kitchen utensils, or
clocks make good subjects. .
Refer to the negative space to create a more accurate line drawing. Negative space is the
space and forms around your subject. For example, if you are drawing a chair, this is the space
between the rungs and chair legs.
If you use a photograph to draw from, consider converting it to gray scale before printing it. This
will help you to get more accurate shadings, because your object will already be in black and
white.
3
Make your value scale. Values are the lights and darks of your drawing. A value scale will help
you determine the different depths of your shaded drawing. A complete value scale will range
from white all the way to black with many shades of gray in between. However, most objects
only use 5 adjacent values on the value scale.
To create a value scale, you should start by drawing a long rectangle. You can do this on the
corner of your drawing. Or, if you prefer, draw it on a separate piece of paper.
Break the rectangle up into 5 squares, numbering them 1 through 5. You can do more than 5 as
you grow in your shading skills, but 5 shades in the scale gives you a place to start.
Intensify the darkness for each number: 1 should be completely white, 2 should be lightly
shaded, 3 should represent moderate shading, 4 should be dark, and 5 should be as dark as
you can get it.
You should not have both white and black on your shading scale, unless your subject is under a
very strong, direct light source. Otherwise you should be working with shades of gray only.
4
Locate your light source. You will be shading away from your light source; the brightest
(lightest) areas will be those closest to the light, and the darkest areas will be the furthest away.
Pay special attention to any glares or reflections, as those tend to be the brightest areas of your
subject. Indicate these areas on your drawing.
Your light source will create shadows which you will need to fill in. The shadows are what create
a realistic drawing, so don't forget to shade these as well as the bright areas.
5
Choose a shading method. Depending on your subject, your light source, and your desired
texture for the drawing, you can choose from several different shading methods. The most
common include hatching, cross hatching, and circular shading (scumbling). However, there
are other shading methods too that can be used.
Hatching is the process of drawing many parallel lines that are close together to create a shade.
This is best for objects that lack texture or have a natural grain (such as hair).
Cross hatching is a shading method by which you draw crossing lines which form many little 'X'
shapes on your drawing. This is a great way to add darkness quickly and easily while
simultaneously adding texture.
Circular shading(scumbling) is done by creating small overlapping circles. You can create a lot
of texture by spacing the circles far apart and using heavy lines, or create a smooth blend by
keeping the circles tight and close together.
6
Create a preliminary shading of your drawing. Because you are still in the "edit" mode of
your drawing, do not use the full darkness of your pencil so that you can erase or move
shadows and light spots. This means press lightly, and only barely fill in areas that need
shading.
Leave the very brightest parts of your drawing white. Or, use your eraser to remove the pencil
and make a highlight or reflection.
Refer back to your subject frequently to compare it with your drawing. Make sure you get the
main shadows and reflections in the right places.
7
Add more layers of shading. Darken gradually, each time laying a thin layer of shade. The
contrast between light areas and dark areas should become more clear and distinct.
Use your value scale as a guide. This will help you remain consistent throughout your drawing.
Take your time. "The process is much like a black & white photo slowly developing in the tray in
the darkroom. Patience is key at this phase."
As you deepen your shading, the outline of your drawing should slowly disappear. In real life
most things don't have solid outlines - simply a change in value. The same should hold true for
your drawing; don't darken the outline, darken the shadows.
8
Blend shaded areas. For the smoothest blend, use a blending stump. This smooths out any
rough edges and makes the shading more gradual and realistic. Hold the blending stump just
like a pencil. Press lightly at first, until you determine how much blending you want to do. You
can always go over it again.
You can also use your fingertips for blending if you do not have any blending stumps available.
Use an eraser to brighten up spots that might have been accidentally blended. This could be
around the outline of shapes or in areas where there is direct light
Just remember that most people, even fine/famous artists, were not as good as they are now
when they were just starting out.
b.
c.
(a)
(b)
(a)
(b)
The basic drawing techniques for creating value when drawing with pencil involves exactly the same
strokes as when using a pen. The basic strokes include hatching, cross-hatching, contour-hatching,
scumbling, and stippling, as shown in the examples below.
1 HATCHING A
2 SCUMBLING B
3 CROSS HATCHING C
4 STIPLING D
5 CONTOUR HATCHING E
ANSWER;
1 2 3 4 5
1 Contour Hatching
2 Stipling
3 Cross Hatching
4 Scumbling
5 Hatching
STIPLING
CROSS HATCHING
SCUMBLING
HATCHING
In your drawing book shade the following. Identify your light source
The overhand grip is a good one for drawing quickly but it is not precise. You can see
that the ball and shadow are not perfect, and yours do not have to be either for this
shading exercise to work. Just lightly draw a circle and try to get the shadow in about
the same position as in the photo.
Using the same overhand grip, but lowering the angle of the pencil so that the full side of
the lead is on the paper, very lightly shade the entire ball.
Use short, back and forth hatching motions, all in the same direction, with a very light
pressure on the pencil.
The hatches should be between 1/2 to 3/4 inches long, so you will need to make three or
four passes across the ball to fill it completely.
Define the main highlight, near the top left of the ball, by shading the area around it to a
slightly darker value.
The highlight’s edge is fuzzy and indistinct, so make the hatching surrounding it uneven
and the edges will look “soft”.
Take time to look at the most obvious shadow on the ball and notice that its crescent
shaped. It starts at the right top of the ball, above the cast shadow, and it ends at the
bottom of the ball, near the left edge of the cast shadow. Shape the shadow as you shade
it in by making several passes over the area until it darkens.
To make sure the shading is not getting too dark, squint your eyes at your drawing and
compare it to the photo.
Darken the right side of the ball into a slightly lighter value than the shadow you just
shaded, being careful to leave the small reflected highlight at the bottom of the ball.
To make the shading look more realistic, you’ll need to add the more subtle shadows.
Squint your eyes at both the photo and the drawing again. Since this shading method
creates a rough texture, squinting your eyes will help you see it as smoother and more
unified.
To refine the shading over the entire ball, keep your eyes on the photo and only take
quick glances at the shading on your drawing as you work. You can compare the two
more easily this way. Use several light layers to gradually darken the shading until it
matches the photo.
To add the cast shadow, first take the time to observe that the shadow is darker than the
ball at the bottom and is lighter than the ball near the top. Tip the pencil up on its point
so you can hatch in the small area of the shadow under the ball, and then lower its angle
again to gradate that value into the rest of the shadow.
To finish, tip the pencil to its point and darken the right edge of the ball slightly, just
under the center point. Gradate that line into the body of the ball so that it will look
“sharper” on the shadow side and “softer” on the ball side. Draw a sharp dark line
underneath the ball’s bottom edge in the same way, but blend this line into the shadow.