Extension Gardener Class 7:

Caring for Landscapes

Today’s Class

• Understanding the
soil test report
• Fertilization
• Plant Establishment
• Watering
• Mulch
• Pruning
 Final Classes
May 13/14 May 20/21
• Diagnosing plant • Managing pests,
problems including ticks, deer and
• Insects weeds!
• Diseases • Cultural methods
• Environmental and • Encouraging beneficials
man-made problems • Pesticides: natural and
synthetic
 The Soil Test Report
http://www.ncagr.gov/agronomi/pals/

• Enter last name that the samples were submitted under

• This will generate a list - select your name and click on Search
• Click on New Report in the PDF File column
 Soil Test Report

• Sample ID – what you entered

• Crop 1 – what you plan to grow
 Lime Recommendation

• pH level – Actual number and shows where your pH is in

comparison to target range (based on soil type and what you
intend to grow)
• Lime recommendation – for dolomitic or agricultural/garden
lime, pounds per 1000 square feet
 5.5 – 6.5 ideal for most plants

Why pH is important
• Changes in pH affect nutrient
availability

• Can limit root growth under

extremely acidic conditions

• Most native Piedmont soils

are acidic, below 6.0
Should You Alter pH?
• Lime raises pH – only add lime if
recommended; add agricultural
or dolomitic lime
– Till lime into the soil before
planting or surface apply in fall
• Sulfur lowers pH – consider
adding if pH over 7.0 and plants
show micronutrient deficiency
symptoms Contains elemental
sulfur and gypsum
(Calcium Sulfate)
 Micronutrient Deficiency

Zinc Magnesium Iron

Epsom Salts = Magnesium sulfate, lowers pH and provides Mg
and S, two nutrients that are often deficient at higher pH –
apply 2-3 times a season
 Fertilizer Recommendation

• Phosphorous (P-I) and Potassium Index (K-I) – between 50 and

70 is ideal, less than 50 fertilizer recommended; over 50 no
economic benefit of adding more
• Fertilizer Recommendation – in pounds per 1000 square feet –
Notice, there is no Nitrogen (N) index
 1000 square feet
To determine area (sq. ft.) of a rectangular area,
multiply length x width
50 feet

20 50 x 20 = 1000
ft sq. ft.

If your area is less than 1000 sq. ft., divide rate:

• If only 500 sq. ft., divide by 2
• If only 333 sq. ft., divide by 3
• If only 100 sq. ft., divide by 10
 Can’t Find The Recommended
Analysis?
1. Find something with similar ratio,
for example, 5-10-5 is a 1:2:1
fertilizer and adjust rate accordingly
2. Use a complete fertilizer but always
base application rate on Nitrogen –
eg., if you have 5-3-3 (Plant-tone),
apply 20 lbs/ 1000 sq. ft.
• Add additional nutrients with
specialized fertilizers if needed
To determine lbs of actual nutrients supplied,
multiply rate (lbs) by % nutrient
20 lbs of 5-3-3 provides:
• N = 20 x .05 = 1 lb of nitrogen
• P = 20 x .03 = 0.6 lbs of phosphorus
• K = 20 x .03 = 0.6 lb of potassium

20 lbs 5-10-5 provides:

• N = 20 x .05 = 1 lb of nitrogen
• P = 20 x .10 = 2 lbs of phosphorus
• K = 20 x .05 = 1 lb of potassium

Need more phosphorus!

 Adding Phosphorus: Bone Meal
• 0-10-0
• 10 lbs of phosphorus for
every 100 lbs of fertilizer =
10% or 0.10
• We need additional 1.4 lbs
per 1000 sq. ft.
• Divide 10 into 140 (or 0.1
into 1.4)
• 140/10 = 14 lbs bone meal
to provide additional 1.4 lbs
of phosphorus
 Mixing Your Own Fertilizer
• You can “custom blend” your own fertilizer
with individual nutrients

Dried Blood is 12%

nitrogen, 12-0-0
To determine how much
is needed per 1000 sq. ft.
to supply 1 lb of nitrogen,
divide 12 into 100:
100/12 = 8.3 lbs
• Triple Super
Phosphate is 45% P,
0-45-0
• How much is needed
per 1000 sq ft to
supply 2 lbs of P?
• Divide 45 into 200
• 200/45 = 4.4 lbs
• Muriate of Potash
is 60% P, 0-0-60
• How much is
needed per 1000 sq
ft to supply 1 lbs of
K?
• Divide 60 into 100
• 100/60 = 1.67 lbs
 Equivalent to 20 lbs of 5-10-5
• 8.3 lbs of blood meal (12-0-0)
• 4.4 lbs of triple super phosphate (0-45-0)
• 1.67 lbs of muriate of potash (0-0-60)
Or Keep It Simple . . .
• Many people opt to use a
complete fertilizer and base
rate on Nitrogen only
• Eg: Osmocote, 14-14-14
• To apply 1 lb of N,
100/14 = 7 lbs per 1000 sq ft
• Only get ½ phosphorus
needed but will build that up Check label for
with future applications application rates per
individual plant
 If Need Nitrogen Only
• Find a product that contains only Nitrogen
• Analysis will be # - 0 – 0
• Target application rate is 1.0 lb Nitrogen

Blood Meal is 12% nitrogen,

12-0-0
To determine how much is
needed per 1000 sq. ft. to
supply 1 lb of nitrogen,
divide 12 into 100:
100/12 = 8.3 lbs
 Additional Information:
HM%

• HM% - humic matter

• Measure of chemically active fraction NOT
total organic matter
• Used to determine lime recommendation
 Additional Information:
W/V

W/V = Weight/Volume
• over 1.5 = very sandy soil (sand is heavy)
• Under 0.5 = lots of organic matter
• Clay typically in between
 Cation Exchange Capacity
• CEC
– Measure of soil’s capacity to
hold nutrients
– Increases as organic matter,
pH, and clay content increase
– Sandy soils lower, eg. 2.0
– Organic/Clay soils higher, eg.
25

Organic matter
increases CEC
 Additional Information:
Mn, Zn, Cu, S

Manganese, Zinc, Copper indices

(Mn-I, Zn-I, Cu-I)
• Ideal range 25-50; if pH over 6.0 less available to
plants; If pH under 5.0 may become toxic to plants
Sulfur (S-I) – ideal 25-50 at pH 6.0 or lower; Sulfur
lowers pH
 Fertilizing – When?
• Apply in early spring
(March) if needed
• Use slow release fertilizer
– Natural or synthetic time
release
• Miracle-Gro (and other
liquid fertilizers) are not a
good way to fertilizer trees,
shrubs, and perennials
Liquid fertilizers and spikes are
not an effective way to feed
trees and shrubs!
 Where to Fertilize

In the root zone: Majority of roots are within 2-3’ of

dripline (edge of canopy) = broadcast fertilizer here!
Exception
• Newly planted trees
and shrubs
– Avoid nitrogen
application during first
year
• Mix phosphorus,
potassium and lime in
when preparing the
soil
Planting Trees and Shrubs
• Fall is best time!
– Optimum root growth
in fall and early spring
(soil temps 40-70)
– Lower temperatures,
shorter days favor root
growth over shoot
growth
– Fall planting = more
established roots for
summer
Roots are the most important part!
Prepare Beds,
Not Holes!
• Better to plant in
prepared beds rather Bed
than single plants
• If planting a single
specimen plant,
prepare an area at
least 5’ x 5’

Single Plant
 Tree Roots
• Grow out, not deep: Extend 3x or more the
width of the canopy
• Feeder roots are in top 6”-12” of the soil
– So are grass roots: extremely competitive

Canopy
The roots of this
tree are competing
with grass for
nutrients and
water – this
competition can
reduce growth rate
by ½.

The trunk is also exposed to trimmers and

mowers that can cause fatal injuries!
Ring Barking
 Planting Hole Within Bed

• 2-3 times width of root ball

• Never deeper than root ball
• Usually want root ball a few inches high
 Planting Woody Plants
• Always check for
circling roots!
• Cut through circling
roots and break up
the root system of
root bound plants
• If not cut, circling
roots will continue to
circle and may
eventually girdle trees

Root Bound!
Circling roots Healthy root system
Easy to Fix!
Too Deep:
How Can You Tell?
• It is easy to dig too deep
• Measure root ball before
planting
• Gauge level before filling
hole
TOO DEEP! - add soil to bottom of
hole
 Final Grade

• Never deeper than root ball

• At soil level or a few inches high –
especially in heavy clay
 Care After Planting
• Do NOT prune at planting –
this can actually do more harm
than good
• Trunk wraps are not
necessary!
• Watering is most important
thing you can do to help newly
planted trees establish!

Trunk Wrap
 Are larger trees
better?
• Smaller trees (less than 2”
diameter) take less time and
water to establish
• Growth rate of small trees is
significantly greater than when
the same species is planted at a
larger size
• Unless plenty of water can be
supplied, it is better to plant
smaller trees
 Watering Newly Planted Trees and
Shrubs
• Water 1-2/week for first
few weeks if it does not rain
• No need to water through
winter
• For first growing season,
water once a week if no
Tree Gator – slowly
rainfall, April – Oct.
releases water to the root
zone over several hours
Water Appropriately
• Water slowly to
allow water to
soak in
– Soaker hoses
– Bucket with
holes in bottom
Soaker Hose
 Irrigation
• Irrigation typically not
needed for
established trees,
shrubs, perennials
• Drip irrigation – great
for landscape beds
– Uses 30% - 50% less
– Does not wet foliage
• Irrigation systems
supplement rainfall,
not replace it!
Harvest Cistern

Rainwater
Can add pump or rely
on gravity

Rain Barrels
 Mulch!
BENEFITS:
• Conserves soil moisture
• Keeps soil cool
• Prevents annual weeds
• Slowly adds organic matter to
the soil (if organic mulch)
• Keeps mowers and weed
trimmers (and grass) away
from tree trunks!!
 Mulching Basics
• Apply 2” – 4” out to dripline
(canopy edge)
• Over 4” can become hydrophobic
= repel water
• Remove excess mulch when over
4”
• Can be done anytime
• Don’t pile around base of woody
plants
Volcano Mulching
Mulch
against trunk
can
encourage
diseases
and insects
as well as
suffocate
tree roots
and repel
water.
 Mulch Materials:
Pine Straw
• Easy to transport bales
• Tricky to spread around
annuals and small plants
• Looses color quickly
• Stays in place fairly well
• Only minor effect on soil
pH over time
• Highly flammable!
 Mulch Materials:
Pine Bark
• Loose mulch – allows more water
to evaporate from soil
• Floats – not good for areas that
flood
• Available in multiple size
chips/nuggets
• Ground pine bark = good for
annuals and as soil amendment
• Minor effect on soil pH over time
Mulch Materials:
Hardwood Bark
• Triple Shredded
• Dyed Mulches: Iron based dyes
• Knits together tightly – holds
more moisture in soil than pine
bark
• Stays in place better than pine
bark
• Releases Calcium – can raise pH
over time
• Nuisance fungi can be a problem
 Nuisance Fungi
on Mulch

Stink
Horns
Slime Mold, aka Dog Vomit
More common in hardwood mulch –
no treatment, do not cause damage.
Water mulch well when first apply –
only use aged material, never fresh chips
or sawdust
 Mulch Materials:
Inorganic
• Stone, crushed brick, recycled
tires
• Do not add organic matter to
soil
• Difficult to remove – stays in
place!
• Landscape fabrics help to keep
soil separate
• Debris builds up in over time
• Main attraction: do not have
to continually reapply
Pruning
 Pruning Perennials
• Deadhead
– Remove spent
flowers, including
stem
• Tip – cut or pinch
back top 2”-3” to
promote
bushiness
Pruning Perennials
Cut Back
• Early summer for
tall perennials to
reduce height, also
delays flowering a
little
• At end of season
after frost – or
leave for winter
interest
• Cut back as low as
possible
 Pruning Trees and Shrubs: Why?
• Keep plants healthy
– Remove
diseased/dead/broken wood
– Increase air flow
– Remove crossing branches
• Increase flowering
– Increase light penetration
– Stimulate flowering wood
• Aesthetics
– Enhance natural form of
plants Why were these dwarf
• Keep plants in bounds? yaupon pruned?
 Prune Less:
Choose Plants That Fit!

Know mature height and width for the cultivar

 If you’re pruning more than 4 times
per year, consider replacement!

Eleagnus is
a large,
vigorous
shrub that is
almost
impossible
to keep
pruned as a
formal
hedge!
 Work with the
Natural Shape of Plants

Forsythia is a LARGE
arching shrub
 Growth Habits of Woody Plants
Prostrate

Mounding or Spreading Irregular

Vase Shaped

Columnar Pyramidal Rounded Oval

Pruning Tools
• Hand tools
– Hand pruners
– Loppers
– Hand saw
– Allow more control
• Power tools
– Hedge trimmers
– For shearing
 Shearing
 Formal
appearance – High
maintenance
 Can be done
anytime of year
 ALWAYS prune
wider at base,
narrower at top
 Other Options:
Pruning Cuts:
• Heading = thickens
• Thinning = opens
• Use combination of cuts to
open plants up and
encourage growth
throughout the shrub while
working with the natural
shape of the shrub!
 Heading Cuts
• Cut all stems back A
A
• Promotes dense
growth and branching
• Head back at multiple
B
heights for fullness B
throughout the shrub

A) All shoots headed back to same point

B) B) Shoots headed back at different heights
Thinning Cuts
• Completely remove
branches to side branch,
trunk or at ground level
• Opens up plants, improves
air circulation and light
penetration
• Controls size yet maintains
natural shape
 Pruning – When?
• Flowering shrubs
– Spring blooming = after flowering
– Summer blooming = late winter
• Evergreens
– Most require little pruning
– Can trim as needed, avoid late
summer
• All shrubs
– Remove dead, broken, crossing or
diseased branches anytime
‘Oakleaf’ Holly
requires little pruning
Spring Bloomers:
Prune after flowering
Forsythia

Others: Quince,
Weigela, Itea, Kerria,
Reeves, Bridalwreath
and Vanhoutte Spirea,
Camellia japonica, etc.
Azalea

Indian Hawthorn
 Hydrangeas
Mophead
Hydrangea

Lacecap
Hydrangea
Oakleaf Hydrangea

Bigleaf (H. macrophylla), both mophead and lacecap varieties, and Oakleaf
(H. quercifolia) bloom on old wood – prune after flowering
New everblooming hydrangeas can be pruned before or after flowering!
Eg. ‘Endless Summer’
 Summer
Bloomers
Japanese Spirea
Abelia

Others:
Butterflybush,
Beautyberry, Clethra,
Roses, Tea Olive,
Vitex, Rose of Sharon,
Nandina, Crape
Myrtle
 Hydrangea paniculata,
Peegee Hydrangea,
blooms on new wood

Gardenias bloom on old

and new wood – prune
early spring
Conifers
• Require very little pruning
• Never cut back to bare
wood (no leaves) – cannot
produce new buds on old
wood
– Exceptions: Podocarpus, Yew
• Pruning generally confined
to light tipping, can be
done anytime of the year
(avoid late summer/fall) New growth will not
arise from old wood
Conifers
• Select varieties
and place in the
landscape
thoughtfully
• Once too large,
most cannot be
cut back

Chamaecyparis ‘Golden Mop’ – grows 6’x6’

C. ‘Filifera Aurea’ grows 20’ x 10’!
 Pruning Trees
• Improperly pruned trees
are much more likely to fail
during high winds
• Improper pruning results in
wounds that cannot seal
over
• Allows insects and decay
into the tree
• CONKS (mushrooms on
trunk) are a serious sign of
decay!
WRONG! This is called
topping and is extremely
detrimental to tree
health! It promotes weak
structure and encourages
decay.
Pruning Shade Trees
• Develop central leader –
especially in trees maturing
over 30’
• Space and balance branches –
encourage strong (wide)
angles
• Remove crossing branches
• Remove lower, less
productive branches as the
tree ages
 Pruning Small Trees
• Remove all diseased,
dead and damaged
branches
• Remove crossing or
rubbing branches
• Remove inwardly
growing branches to
improve light
penetration and air
circulation
Where to cut – look for the
branch collar
The branch collar is
an area of active
growth, where trees
can seal off wounds.

Cutting into the

branch collar leads
to poor wound
‘healing’ and decay.
When properly pruned, trees seal over wounds with callus
growth, which often forms a donut-like ring that eventually
covers the entire wound
Where cut should
have been made

Cutting too far out leaves a

stub the cambium will not
be able to grow over –
creating a channel for decay
to enter the plant
Some species can sprout from stubs, producing weak
branches that are unsightly.
 Bad cut- called a flush cut

Wound wood can not

develop evenly.
Flush cuts lead to
decay!
Pruning large branches :
The three cut method

A) Undercut B) Overcut C) Final Cut at Branch Collar

For branches over 1 ½” in diameter
Tear caused by
not using the 3
cut method – tree
cannot seal over –
opening for decay
and insects
What about wound dressing?

Not beneficial! Can actually increase decay problems

 Hiring an Arborist
• When pruning trees that you
want to keep healthy, hire a
certified arborist
• Certification through the
International Society of
Arboriculture
• Can search for certified arborists
from their website:
http://www.isa-arbor.com/
– Under Certification Tab, click on
‘Verify an ISA Certification’ on the
left, then search by zip code
 Not ISA
Certified!
 Next Week:
Diagnosing Plant Problems
Morning
• Wednesday, 5/13
• 9:30-noon
Evening
• Thursday, 5/14
• 6:00 – 8:30