Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Instruction Manual
MODEL: RINGFEDER and LORD COUPLING
INSTALLATIONS FOR QSX15, C15,
C16, C18, QSK19, C27 & C32 ENGINES
Atlas Copco Drilling Solutions, LLC
2100 North First Street
Garland, Texas, 75040
(972)496-7400
INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-1
GENERAL INFORMATION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-1
TERMINOLOGY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-2
STANDARD TORQUE VALUES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3
General Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3
Head Markings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3
Recommended Torque in Foot Pounds (ft./lbs.). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-4
Recommended Torque in Nm. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-5
RINGFEDER COUPLING REFERENCE NUMBERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-6
LORD COUPLING REFERENCE NUMBERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-6
REQUIRED TOOLS / SPECIAL EQUIPMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-6
Compressor Weights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-6
RINGFEDER COUPLING (57782203 or 57782229) Specs for C15/16/18, QSK19 or C27 Engines 1-7
RINGFEDER COUPLING (57381766) Specs for C32 Engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-9
THIN LORD COUPLING (35834795) Specs for QSX15, C15/16/18 Engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-11
THICK LORD COUPLING (57903494) Specs for QSX15, C15/16/18 Engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-13
Power Pack Base Types for Mounting Compressors (2 basic styles). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-15
DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE (Ringfeder Coupling) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-16
ASSEMBLY PROCEDURE (Ringfeder Coupling) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-17
RINGFEDER COUPLING (57782203 or 57782229) INSTALL on C15/16/18 or QSK19 Engines . . 1-17
Align Ringfeder Coupling Rubber Element . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-20
Air End Compressor Shimming for C15/16/18 or QSK19 Engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-29
RINGFEDER COUPLING (57782203) INSTALL on a QSK19 Engine with an IN/OUT BOX. . . . . . 1-31
Align Ringfeder Coupling Rubber Element . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-34
Air End Compressor Shimming on a QSK19 Engine with an In/Out Box (2657742124). . . . . . . . . . 1-41
RINGFEDER COUPLING (57782203) INSTALL on C27 Engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-43
Align Ringfeder Coupling Rubber Element . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-46
RINGFEDER COUPLING (57381766) INSTALL on C32 Engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-53
Align Ringfeder Coupling Rubber Element . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-60
DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE (Lord Coupling) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-64
ASSEMBLY PROCEDURE (Lord Coupling) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-65
THIN LORD COUPLING (35834795) INSTALL on QSX15, C15/16/18 Engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-65
Align the Lord Coupling on the Compressor Shaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-68
Air End Compressor Shimming for QSX15, C15/16/18 Engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-79
THICK LORD COUPLING (57903494) INSTALL on QSX15, C15/16/18 Engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-81
Align the Lord Coupling on the Compressor Shaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-83
Air End Compressor Shimming for QSX15, C15/16/18 Engines. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-93
INTRODUCTION
GENERAL INFORMATION
The purpose of this manual is to provide all necessary information required by site
maintenance personnel for the proper assembly / disassembly of the Ringfeder or Lord
Couplings, as well as the proper installation / shimming of Air End compressors.
If any part of this manual cannot be understood, contact your supervisor or local Atlas
Copco Distributor.
NOTICE
The use of repair parts other than those included within the Atlas Copco
approved parts list may create hazardous conditions over which Atlas
Copco has no control. Therefore Atlas Copco cannot be held responsible
for equipment in which non-approved repair parts are installed.
When the life of the tool has expired, it is recommended that the tool be
disassembled, degreased, and parts be separated by materials so that
they can be recycled.
NOTICE
SAFETY ALWAYS is the primary concern, for the protection of both
personnel and the equipment during assembly / disassembly. All
personnel must thoroughly understand all safety precautions and
procedures before doing any maintenance work on Ringfeder Couplings,
Lord Couplings, or Air End Compressors. Safety is an integral part of
every individual’s job responsibility, therefore all work must be
performed only by qualified personnel.
TERMINOLOGY
Throughout the manual, Danger, Caution, Warning, Notice and Note are used to provide
the reader with special noteworthy information.
! DANGER
Danger is used to indicate the presence of a hazard which will cause
severe personal injury, death, or substantial property damage if the
warning is ignored.
! WARNING
Warning is used to indicate the presence of a hazard which can cause
severe personal injury, death, or substantial property damage if the
warning is ignored.
! CAUTION
Caution is used to indicate the presence of a hazard which can or will
cause minor personal injury or property damage if the warning is ignored.
NOTICE
Notice is used to notify people of installation, operation, or maintenance
information which is important but not hazard related. Hazard warnings
should never be included under the Notice signal word.
General Information
! CAUTION
Use only the proper tools (inch or metric) on hardware. Other tools may
not fit properly. They may slip and cause injury.
Head Markings
Fasteners should be replaced with the same grade or a higher grade. If higher grade fasteners
are used, these should only be tightened to the strength of the original grade fastener.
Do not use these values if a different torque value or tightening procedure is listed for a specific
application. Torque values listed are for general use only. All values are suggested maximum
with dry plated hardware.
Make sure fastener threads are clean and you properly start thread engagement. This will
prevent them from falling when tightening.
The following pages list the recommended tightening torques for the various size bolts used
by Atlas Copco Drilling Solutions. Proper torque specifications should be used at all times.
The head of grade five (5) is marked with three (3) short lines. The head of a grade eight (8)
is marked with six (6) short lines.
In the following tables, DRY means “clean dry” threads and LUBE means a “light film” of oil.
Excess oil in a threaded dead end hole can create a hydraulic lock giving a false torque
reading.
Recommended Torque in Nm
This page lists the recommended tightening torques, in newton-meters (Nm), for the various
size bolts and nuts that are used. Proper torque specifications should be used at all times.
Table 2: Recommended Torque in Nm
Compressor Weights
XL900, XL1050, 226MM - (1,350 lbs);
HR2, HR2.5 - (2,140 lbs);
XL1600, XL1900, 285MM - (2,910 lbs);
XL2600, 350MM - (4,900 lbs).
SAFETY/ PRECAUTIONS
! CAUTION
The following safety, cleanliness and maintenance guidelines are to be
used throughout the assembly / disassembly process for the coupling:
C. Handle parts carefully. Hardened parts may chip or break if they are
dropped on a hard surface.
E. Check all new parts for damage that may have occurred in shipment and
replace all unserviceable parts.
H. Parts should fit together easily. If force is required, a part is either out of
tolerance or alignment, and must be corrected to prevent binding and
possible damage.
STEP 2
Insert the half-key into the keyway. Apply pressure to the half-key with a c-clamp (be sure to
wipe off any excess that is squeezed out). Allow approximately 10 to 20 minutes settling time.
Place the coupling on its back. Note the outer-ring of 12 capscrews are accessible here. If they
are not, remove and flip the rubber element over and then re-insert it as shown.
STEP 3
Place coupler assembly on flywheel and align bolt holes.
Insert two capscrews with washers removed during disassembly -- place one at the top and
another at the bottom and lightly tighten them to temporarily hold assembly in place.
STEP 4
Use an impact wrench to lightly tighten or “snug up” the 12 capscrews using a circular pattern.
Using a torque wrench with a 14 MM Allen wrench/socket on it, move in a circular pattern and
torque all capscrews to 155 ft-lbs. Repeat the tightening pattern until the bolts don’t move
when 155 ft-lbs of torque is applied.
STEP 5
As a matter of good work practice, it is advisable to mark the capscrews as you torque them
so that you do not inadvertently miss any.
Remove the two capscrews holding the coupling assembly on the flywheel and remove it.
STEP 6
Slip the aluminum flange off the rubber element and carefully set it aside.
Thoroughly clean the machined hub area of the rubber element.
STEP 7
Thoroughly clean the crankshaft and then use 220 grit Emory Paper to completely remove any
burrs from the compressor crankshaft.
As a final check, use your fingers to feel the entire crankshaft area to ensure it is perfectly
smooth before installing rubber element, any burrs will score the hub.
STEP 9
Use your hands to make the back side of the flange flush with the rubber element, starting at
the top and working your way all the way down.
When you get to the bottom work your way back to the top to verify the back side of the flange
and rubber element are perfectly even all the way around. Note the aluminum flange will
extend towards you leaving the rubber element slightly recessed from the front view (the
flange is almost an inch wider than the rubber element).
STEP 10
Visually verify the rubber element is evenly recessed within the flange from the front side.
Pull the side inspection covers off and visually confirm the aluminum flange and the rubber
element cogs are uniformly flush from the back.
STEP 11
Lay your straight edge across the back of the engine bell housing. Next place the tri-square
up against the straight edge as shown. Loosen the set screw and push the tri-square blade
forward until it contacts the engine flywheel near the bolt holes that the coupling flange bolts to.
With the tr-square blade resting against the flywheel, tighten the set screw.
STEP 12
The rubber element needs to run centered in the flange when engine and compressor are
joined together. Measure the amount of recess of the rubber element relative to the flange
(which you caused in an earlier step when you made the backside of the flange and the rubber
element flush to one another). Here (below) we measure an offset of 7/16” of an inch. We need
to center this.
When tightened, the hub will move towards you 1/16” so subtract 1/16” from the 7/16” you
measured to compensate (leaving 6/16”). Next take half of the remaining 6/16” to get 3/16”.
Loosen the tri-square set screw and push the blade forward 3/16” and retighten set screw.
STEP 13
Place the straight edge against the face of the aluminum flange (be careful to keep the
backside of the rubber element flush with the flange). Then place the tri-square up against the
straight edge.
Carefully move the entire assembly as a single unit, in or out, until the tip of the blade of the
tri-square just touches the compressor next to its mounting bolt holes, as shown below.
STEP 14
Use a small air ratchet and a 8 MM Allen wrench/socket to lightly tighten or “snug up” the 10
inner capscrews using a circular tightening pattern (be care to not move the hub).
Remove aluminum flange from the rubber element and carefully set it aside.
STEP 15
Place a small hammer as shown to prevent the rubber element from turning while it is being
torqued (or insert a small chain through the inspection port in the compressor housing and loop
it around a cog on the rubber element to keep the rubber element from turning).
Moving in a circular pattern, use a torque wrench to torque the 10 inner capscrews to a final
torque of 51 ft-lbs. Note: It may require up to four repeated tightening sequences of the
capscrews to achieve a steady final torque of 51 ft-lbs.
STEP 16
Place flange on back of flywheel and align bolt holes.
Insert capscrews with washers removed during disassembly.
STEP 17
Lightly tighten all the capscrews with an impact wrench.
Use a torque wrench to torque the capscrews to 90 ft-lbs.
STEP 18
Set the cross-member in the powerpack frame with the notch in the cross-member facing
towards the engine.
STEP 19
! WARNING
HR2/2.5 compressors weigh 2,140 lbs. XL1600, XL1900 and 285MM
Compressors weigh 2,910 lbs. You must use both a chain and a hoist (or
lift straps) with lift ratings in excess of the weight of the compressor
assembly. (For the HR 2.5 compressor use the bracket to lift it as shown.)
STEP 20
Lift compressor and place just above mounting holes in cross-member, do not fully set
compressor down on cross-member.
STEP 21
Insert the four bolts (with lock washers) removed during disassembly into compressor.
At this time, do not tighten them, only thread them part way in.
STEP 22
! WARNING
Do not attempt to rotate the rubber element to align it with your fingers.
Keep your fingers CLEAR to avoid possible severe injury. Keep your
hand on TOP of the compressor as you guide it.
With the compressor pressed up against the engine, use a small pry bar (through the side
access port) to rotate the rubber element and guide it into the aluminum flange.
STEP 23
Insert capscrews in compressor housing removed during disassembly.
Torque capscrews to 30 ft-lbs.
STEP 24
With the compressor properly torqued, the rubber element should be fully seated with the
rubber element cogs recessed approximately 3/16” into the aluminum flange as shown.
Torque the four cross-member to air compressor capscrews to 250 ft-lbs.
NOTE: If the cross member was un-bolted from the powerpack base and
the shims fell out; or if a different (new or rebuilt) compressor is
being installed which might having different mounting
characteristics, shimming might be required.
STEP 1
With the compressor bolted up to the engine, and the cross-member firmly bolted to the
compressor, the ends of the cross-member should lie flat on the power pack base. If there is
a gap on one or both sides (as shown below), shims will have to be added.
The shims come in a variety of thicknesses. It would be advisable to have at least three packs
of shim sets (p/n 50518083) available to complete this task.
STEP 2
Try different combinations of shims until you have a tight fit in the gap.
Once you have determined the right combination of different shims required, add one 0.30”
shim to the combination.
STEP 3
With a small pry bar lever the cross-member up so that the shims can be slid into place,
exposing the bolt hole through which the mounting capscrew shall be run up through.
Insert mounting capscrews and associated hardware removed during disassembly and torque
to 150 ft-lbs.
STEP 2
Insert the half-key into the keyway. Apply pressure with a c-clamp (wipe off any excess). Allow
approximately 10 to 20 minutes settling time.
Place the coupling on its back. Note the inner-ring of 10 capscrews is accessible here (the
outer ring 12 capscrews are accessible from the back). Remove the aluminum outer flange
from the rubber inner element (it will just slip off).
STEP 3
Place the aluminum flange in the in/out box and align bolt holes (note the usage here of the
outside holes of the three-hole groups as well as the single “stand alone” holes.
Insert 12 capscrews with 12 washers removed during disassembly.
STEP 4
Use an impact wrench to lightly tighten or “snug up” all the capscrews.
Tightening capscrews in a criss-cross pattern, torque the capscrews to 90 ft-lbs each. Repeat
the tightening pattern until the bolts don’t move when 90 ft-lbs of torque is applied.
STEP 5
Temporarily insert the rubber element into the aluminum flange.
The outer-ring of 12 capscrews need to be facing outward, as shown, so that they can be
properly torqued to specification.
STEP 6
Use an impact wrench to lightly tighten or “snug up” all capscrews using a circular pattern.
STEP 7
Using a torque wrench and a 14 MM Allen wrench/socket and moving in a circular pattern,
torque the capscrews to 155 ft-lbs. Repeat the tightening pattern until the bolts don’t move
when 155 ft-lbs of torque is applied.
As a matter of good work practice, it is advisable to mark the capscrews you tighten so that
you do not inadvertently miss any.
STEP 9
Place the tri-square (with the depth still set from the previous step) against the face of the
aluminum flange as shown, and draw a line.
Place the straight edge of the tri-square firmly against the in/out box. Allow the bottom edge
of the tri-square to slide down and rest against the aluminum flange. Next place a ruler right
on the line you just drew on the flange and measure the distance from the line to the straight
edge of the tri-square (the gap or difference measurement between the two arrows in this
example is 11/16” of an inch). Write your own difference measurement down, it will be used to
set center of the rubber element you will install onto the compressor shaft.
STEP 10
Use 220 grit Emory Paper to completely remove any burrs from the compressor crankshaft.
Pay special attention to the area of the half-key.
STEP 11
As a final check, use your fingers to feel the entire crankshaft area to ensure it is perfectly
smooth before installing rubber element, any burrs will score the hub.
Install the rubber element onto the crankshaft with the inner ring of 10 capscrews towards the
outside as shown.
STEP 12
The rubber element is two inches wide. The width of the tri-square ruler blade is one inch wide.
Setting the outside edge (A) of the tri-square blade flush with the edge of the rubber element,
places the inside edge (B) right over center of the rubber element. With the tri-square bottom
edge firmly and squarely resting upon the rubber element, move the rubber element in or out
to achieve the gap measured (C) in Step 9 (in this example 11/16”). (This will center the rubber
element in the aluminum flange when the engine and compressor are joined together.)
STEP 13
Insert a small chain through the opening in the compressor housing and loop it around a cog
on the rubber element to keep it from turning while it is being torqued to specification. (Be
careful not to move the coupling.)
Use a small air ratchet and a 8 MM Allen wrench/socket to lightly tighten or “snug up” the hub
capscrews using a circular tightening pattern.
STEP 14
Use a torque wrench to set all capscrews to a final torque of 51 ft-lbs. Note: It may require up
to four repeated tightening sequences of the capscrews to achieve a steady final torque of 51
ft-lbs.
STEP 15
! WARNING
HR 2.5 compressors typically used in this configuration weigh 2,140 lbs.
You must use both a chain and a hoist with lift ratings in excess of the
weight of the compressor assembly. (For the HR 2.5 compressor it is
recommended you use the bracket to lift it as shown.)
STEP 16
Set cross-member on powerpack rail as shown (note that the notch goes towards the front of
the compressor).
Lift compressor and suspend it just above mounting holes in cross-member, do not set it down
all the way on the cross-member.
STEP 17
Insert the four bolts (with lock washers) removed during disassembly.
Use an impact wrench to tighten all four bolts.
STEP 18
! WARNING
Do not attempt to rotate the rubber element to align it with your fingers.
Keep your fingers CLEAR to avoid possible severe injury. Keep your
hand on TOP of the compressor as you guide it.
Do NOT use your fingers to reach in and rotate the rubber element to align it.
Carefully guide the compressor and rubber element into the back of the in/out box.
STEP 19
With the compressor pressed up against the engine, use a small pry bar (through the side
access port) to rotate the rubber element and guide it into the aluminum flange.
Once the rubber element is guiding properly, carefully align the bolt holes and fully seat
compressor. (The rubber element must be fully engaged in the aluminum flange when done.)
STEP 20
Insert capscrews in compressor housing removed during disassembly.
Torque capscrews to 30 ft-lbs.
NOTE: If the cross-member was un-bolted from the powerpack base and
the shims fell out; or if a different (new or rebuilt) compressor is
being installed which might having different mounting
characteristics, shimming might be required.
STEP 1
With the compressor bolted up to the engine, and the cross-member firmly bolted to the
compressor, the ends of the cross-member should lie flat on the power pack base. If there is
a gap on one or both sides (as shown below), shims will have to be added.
The shims come in a variety of thicknesses. It would be advisable to have at least three packs
of shim sets (p/n 50518083) available to complete this task.
STEP 2
Try different combinations of shims until you have a tight fit in the gap.
Once you have determined the right combination of different shims required, add a 0.30” shim
to the combination.
STEP 3
With a small pry bar lever the cross-member up so that the shims can be slid into place,
exposing the bolt hole through which the mounting capscrew shall be run up through.
Insert mounting capscrews and associated hardware and tighten with an impact wrench.
STEP 2
Place the coupling on its back. Note the inner-ring of 10 capscrews is accessible here.
Remove the aluminum outer flange from the rubber inner element (it will just slip off).
STEP 3
Place aluminum flange on flywheel and align bolt holes (note the usage here of the center hole
of the three-hole groups as well as the single “stand alone” holes.
Insert 8 capscrews with 8 washers removed during disassembly.
STEP 4
Use an impact wrench to lightly tighten or “snug up” all the capscrews.
Use a torque wrench to tighten capscrews in a criss-cross pattern. Torque the capscrews to
90 ft-lbs each. Repeat the tightening pattern until the bolts don’t move when 90 ft-lbs of torque
is applied.
STEP 5
Temporarily insert the rubber element into the aluminum flange.
The outer-ring of 12 capscrews need to be facing outward as shown so that they can be
properly torqued to specifications.
STEP 6
Use an impact wrench to lightly tighten or “snug up” all capscrews.
Using a torque wrench and a 14 MM Allen wrench/socket and moving in a circular pattern,
torque all capscrews to 155 ft-lbs. Repeat the tightening pattern until the bolts don’t move
when 155 ft-lbs. of torque is applied.
STEP 7
Set and align the holes of the spacer (57433039).
Insert two capscrews into the top two bolt holes of the spacer (as shown) to temporarily hold
spacer in place.
STEP 9
Place the tri-square (with the depth still set from the previous step) against the face of the
aluminum flange and draw a line as shown.
Place the straight edge of the tri-square firmly against the face of the spacer. Allow the bottom
edge of the tri-square to slide down and rest against the aluminum flange. Next place a ruler
right on the line you just drew on the flange and measure the distance from the line to the
straight edge of the tri-square (the gap or difference measurement between the two arrows in
this example is 11/16” of an inch). Write your own measurement down, it will be used to set
center of the rubber element you will install on the compressor shaft.
STEP 10
Use 220 grit Emory Paper to completely remove any burrs from the compressor crankshaft.
Pay special attention to the area of the half-key.
STEP 11
As a final check, use your fingers to feel the entire crankshaft area to ensure it is perfectly
smooth before installing rubber element, any burrs will score the hub.
Install the rubber element onto the crankshaft with the inner ring of 10 capscrews towards the
outside as shown.
STEP 12
The rubber element is two inches wide. The width of the tri-square ruler blade is one inch wide.
Setting the outside edge (A) of the tri-square blade flush with the edge of the rubber element,
places the inside edge (B) right over center of the rubber element. With the tri-square bottom
edge firmly and squarely resting upon the rubber element, move the rubber element in or out
to achieve the gap measured (C) in Step 9 (in this example 11/16”). (This will center the rubber
element in the aluminum flange when the engine and compressor are joined together.)
STEP 13
Insert a small chain through the opening in the compressor housing and loop it around a cog
on the rubber element to keep it from turning while it is being torqued to specification. (Be
careful not to move coupling.)
Use a small air ratchet and a 8 MM Allen wrench/socket to lightly tighten or “snug up” the hub
capscrews using a circular tightening pattern.
STEP 14
Use a torque wrench to torque capscrews to a final torque of 51 ft-lbs. Note: It may require up
to four repeated tightening sequences of the capscrews to achieve a steady final torque of 51
ft-lbs.
STEP 15
! WARNING
XL1900/285MM compressors, as shown below, weigh 2,910 lbs. You must
use both a lifting strap and a hoist with lift ratings in excess of the weight
of your particular compressor assembly.
STEP 16
If you are installing a new (or rebuilt) compressor, spray paint primer on both bracket mounting
surfaces prior to mounting the brackets (to provide corrosion/rust resistance).
Install and tighten brackets removed from the old compressor.
STEP 17
Using a properly rated lifting strap and hoist, lift the compressor and set it near the engine.
Maintain tension on the lift strap.
Remove the two capscrews that were temporarily holding the spacer on the engine. Place the
spacer onto the compressor and slide the two bolts through the top two holes to keep the
spacer in place when the compressor is installed.
STEP 18
! WARNING
Do not attempt to rotate the rubber element to align it with your fingers.
Keep your fingers CLEAR to avoid possible severe injury. Keep your
hand on TOP of the compressor as you guide it.
Carefully guide the compressor and rubber element into the back of the engine.
STEP 19
With the compressor pressed up against the engine, use a small pry bar (through the side
access port) to rotate the rubber element and guide it into the aluminum flange. Once the
rubber element is guiding properly, carefully align the bolt holes and fully seat compressor.
(The rubber element must be fully engaged in the aluminum flange when done.)
Insert capscrews in compressor housing removed during disassembly.
STEP 20
Torque capscrews to 30 ft-lbs.
Insert bolts removed during disassembly through the frame and compressor mounting
brackets and tighten them with an impact wrench. (No shimming is required.)
STEP 2
Place the key into a vise and cut it just inside the mark you made.
Test fit the key in the keyway of the compressor and verify it doesn’t project beyond the end
of the crankshaft.
STEP 3
Clean the keyway to ensure it is free of oil or other contaminants (use proper caution as the
edges of the channel will be sharp).
Mix up a small amount of JB Weld and pour it into the channel.
STEP 4
Apply pressure with a c-clamp to seat the key and then squeeze out the excess.
Remove clamp and thoroughly wipe away any excess, repeat process to ensure all excess is
removed and key is fully seated in the keyway.
STEP 5
Place the coupling on its back. Note the inner-ring of 10 capscrews is accessible here.
Remove the aluminum outer flange from the rubber inner element (it will just slip off) and place
it on the engine flywheel.
STEP 6
Insert 6 capscrews and washers removed during disassembly. Tighten lightly or “snug up”
capscrews with an impact wrench.
Using a torque wrench, give the capscrews a final torque of 155 ft-lbs.
STEP 7
Temporarily insert the rubber element into the aluminum flange.
The outer-ring of 12 capscrews need to be facing outward as shown so that they can be
properly torqued to specification.
STEP 8
Use an impact wrench to lightly tighten or “snug up” all capscrews.
Using a torque wrench and a 14 MM Allen wrench/socket and moving in a circular pattern,
torque all capscrews to 155 ft-lbs. Repeat the tightening pattern until the bolts don’t move
when 155 ft-lbs of torque is applied.
STEP 9
Remove rubber element from the aluminum flange.
Thoroughly clean the machined surfaces of the hub.
STEP 10
If adapter (57361685) was removed from engine, touch up both sides of the adapter with rust
resistant primer so there are no exposed metal surfaces.
NOTE: Stamped on adapter is the word “UP”, this MUST be placed at the top when it is
attached to the engine. Insert two eyebolts into the flat side of the adapter for use with a lift
strap (adapter weighs 75 lbs.).
STEP 11
Set the adapter (57361685) and align with the bolt holes of the engine bell housing.
Insert two capscrews into the top two bolt holes of the adapter (as shown) to hold adapter in
place. Remove the eyebolts.
STEP 12
Insert capscrews into adapter that were removed during disassembly and lightly tighten with
an impact wrench.
Give a final torque to the capscrews of 130 ft-lbs.
STEP 13
Use 220 grit Emory Paper to completely remove any burrs from the compressor crankshaft.
Pay special attention to the area of the half-key.
STEP 14
As a final check, use your fingers to feel the entire crankshaft area to ensure it is perfectly
smooth before installing rubber element, any burrs will score the hub.
Install the rubber element onto the compressor crankshaft with the inner ring of capscrews
towards the outside as shown.
STEP 16
Place the tri-square against the face of the crankshaft of the compressor, and the straight edge
tip up against the hub (as shown), to set the depth for the rubber element.
Insert a 8 MM Allen wrench/socket and hand tighten the capscrews.
STEP 17
Use a small air wrench and a 8 MM Allen wrench/socket to lightly tighten or “snug up” the hub
capscrews using a circular tightening pattern.
Use a torque wrench to set all capscrews to a final torque of 51 ft-lbs. Note: It may require up
to four repeated tightening sequences of the capscrews to achieve a steady final torque of 51
ft-lbs.
STEP 18
! WARNING
XL2600 compressors weigh 4,900 lbs. You must use both lifting straps
and a hoist with lift ratings in excess of the weight of the compressor
assembly.
STEP 19
NOTE: the clearance between the head of the capscrews used to mount the aluminum
coupling flange and the adapter is extremely close. Be sure and re-use the same capscrews
and lock washers removed during diassembly to mount the compressor to the adapter.
Using a properly rated lifting strap and hoist, lift the compressor and set it near the engine.
Maintain some tension on the lift straps during installation.
STEP 20
! WARNING
When guiding the compressor keep your fingers CLEAR to avoid
possible severe injury.
STEP 21
Visually align the rubber element with the aluminum flange.
Once the rubber element is guiding properly, carefully seat the compressor.
STEP 22
Insert capscrews in compressor housing removed during disassembly.
Hand tighten the compressor into place, then torque capscrews to 75 ft-lbs.
Insert capscrews through cross-member into compressor and tighten them with an air wrench.
SAFETY/ PRECAUTIONS
! CAUTION
The following safety, cleanliness and maintenance guidelines are to be
used throughout the assembly / disassembly process for the spur head:
C. Handle parts carefully. Hardened parts may chip or break if they are
dropped on a hard surface.
E. Check all new parts for damage that may have occurred in shipment and
replace all unserviceable parts. Remove all nicks, burrs or any foreign
matter.
G. Parts should fit together easily. If force is required, a part is either out of
tolerance or alignment, and must be corrected to prevent binding and
possible damage.
STEP 2
Test fit the key to ensure it has a smooth fit within the keyway (if necessary, smooth edges to
remove any rough edges). The key should be a snug fit in the keyway of the crankshaft.
STEP 3
Align the split taper bushing with the key and test fit it onto the compressor crankshaft.
Ensure it seats fully. It must slide smoothly and easily onto the crankshaft. Remove any burrs
that interfere with a smooth fit.
STEP 4
Re-insert the split taper bushing hub firmly into the coupling so that it is fully seated.
Re-insert the 3 capscrews into the taper bushing. Thread the capscrews in only partially, do
not tighten the capscrews at this time. Leave them extending out as shown, by approximately
1/2”.
STEP 5
If you are installing a new (or rebuilt) compressor you’ll need to install the modified flywheel
adapter (57368995) removed from the previous compressor. Set adapter on compressor and
reinsert capscrews removed during disassembly.
Tighten capscrews to 35 ft-lbs.
STEP 6
Align the keyway and place the coupling over the crankshaft of the compressor.
Ensure the coupling has full range of movement/adjustment by seating it all the way onto the
crankshaft.
STEP 8
Place the straight edge against the face of the coupling (where the bolt holes are which are
used for mounting it to the engine flywheel). Place the tri-square (with the depth still set from
the previous step) against the face of the straight edge and move the coupling in or out until
the blade tip of the tri-square just touches the compressor by its coupler mounting bolt holes.
Next move the coupling back (towards compressor and away from you) to give you a gap of
approximately 3/16” (between the red arrows below). The reason for this is that when the taper
bushing is tightened, it’ll be drawn back forwards (towards you). In the end, when the coupling
is properly set, you want a gap that is slightly greater than zero but less than 1/32”.
STEP 9
Being careful not to move the taper bushing, move the outer ring of the coupling backwards
(towards the compressor) so that you can get access to the set screw on the bushing.
Use A 3/16” Allen wrench to tighten the set screw on the bushing to prevent the bushing from
moving while its capscrews are tightened.
STEP 10
With the set screw tightened, firmly pull the outer ring back towards you so that the outer ring
is fully seated on the taper bushing.
Use your fingers to hand tighten the 3 capscrews.
STEP 11
Use a small impact to lightly tighten or “snug up” the capscrews on the taper bushing hub (do
not fully tighten them).
Run a small chain through the access port and attach it to the coupling so that it cannot rotate.
STEP 12
Moving in a circular pattern, tighten all 3 capscrews to 46 ft-lbs. Repeat tightening them until
the capscrews don’t move when 46 ft-lbs of torque is applied.
Place the straight edge against the face of the coupling as before and check the gap to see if
it is greater than zero but under 1/32”. If the gap is too wide (or not wide enough) you’ll need
reset the position of the taper bushing hub, first you’ll have to break it loose.
STEP 13
If it is necessary to move the taper bushing hub because the gap is incorrect, loosen the
capscrews.
Thread two capscrews into the specially threaded push-off holes and tighten them alternately
until the outer ring breaks free.
STEP 14
Push the outer ring backwards to expose the set screw.
Insert the Allen wrench, loosen the taper bushing and move it as necessary to achieve the
proper gap, then re-tighten the set screw. Repeat steps 10 through 12 until the correct gap is
achieved.
STEP 15
! WARNING
Compressors used with the Lord Coupling typically range between 1,349
lbs and 2,910 lbs. You must use lift chains and a hoist with lift ratings in
excess of the weight of the compressor assembly you’ll be lifting.
Thread in the lifting eyebolts and attach a lift chain capable of lifting the compressor.
STEP 16
! WARNING
Keep your fingers CLEAR to avoid possible severe injury. Keep your
hand on TOP of the compressor as you guide it.
Always keep your fingers clear when guiding the compressor into the back of the engine, the
stepped nature of the mating surfaces (combined with the weight of the compressor) are
capable of causing severe injuries.
STEP 17
Insert a few capscrews to ensure the compressor is in alignment with the engine, but don’t fully
tighten them down yet.
Use a punch to align a previously marked bolt hole on the coupling with a previously marked
flywheel threaded bolt hole.
STEP 18
If necessary, use a flashlight to verify proper alignment of the bolt hole in the outer ring of the
coupling with the threaded bolt hole of the flywheel.
Thread in and hand-tighten one of the 3/8” 12-point socket head capscrews removed during
disassembly. This will maintain alignment of the coupling to the flywheel while you insert and
tighten the rest of the adapter capscrews.
STEP 19
Insert the rest of the adapter capscrews. Be sure to replace the ground strap.
Torque capscrews to 35 ft-lbs.
STEP 20
Lightly tighten the first 3/8” 12-point socket head capscrew you inserted.
Give a final torque to the capscrew of 35 ft-lbs.
STEP 21
Remove engine-rotation access port cover.
Place a 1-1/2” socket on a 3/4” drive breaker-bar. Insert the socket into the access port.
(NOTE: The access port for this Cummins engine is located at the left front, the access port
on a Cat engine is located at the left rear and requires engine rotation tool 58252497.)
STEP 22
A rotation of the breaker bar socket of between approximately 40 to 50 degrees should bring
up the next empty bolt hole on the coupling.
STEP 23
Insert the second capscrew and lightly tighten it.
Give the capscrew a final torque of 35 ft-lbs. Repeat Steps 22 & 23 for the last 10 capscrews.
STEP 24
Replace screen cover on compressor when all capscrews have been inserted and torqued.
Remove breaker-bar and replace the access port cover.
STEP 25
Thread bolts removed from the powerpack cross-member into compressor.
Tighten bolts with an impact wrench.
NOTE: If the cross-member was un-bolted from the powerpack base and
the shims fell out; or if a different (new or rebuilt) compressor is
being installed which might having different mounting
characteristics, shimming might be required.
STEP 1
With the compressor bolted up to the engine, and the cross-member firmly bolted to the
compressor, the ends of the cross-member should lie flat on the power pack base. If there is
a gap on one or both sides (as shown below), shims will have to be added.
The shims come in a variety of thicknesses. It would be advisable to have at least three packs
of shim sets (p/n 50518083) available to complete this task.
STEP 2
Try different combinations of shims until you have a tight fit in the gap.
Once you have determined the right combination of different shims required, add one more
0.30” shim to the combination.
STEP 3
With a small pry bar lever the cross-member up so that the shims can be slid into place,
exposing the bolt hole through which the mounting capscrew shall be run up through.
Insert mounting capscrew and associated hardware and tighten with an impact wrench.
STEP 2
Test fit the key to ensure it has a smooth fit within the keyway (if necessary, smooth edges to
remove any rough edges). The key should be a snug fit in the keyway of the crankshaft.
STEP 3
Align the split taper bushing with the key and test fit it onto the compressor crankshaft.
Ensure it seats fully. It must slide smoothly and easily onto the crankshaft. Remove any burrs
on either the crankshaft or interior of the taper bushing that interfere with a smooth fit.
STEP 4
Place the outer hub of the coupling onto the crankshaft, then place taper bushing onto it.
While pushing against the taper bushing, pull the outer hub onto the taper bushing and seat it.
STEP 6
Place the straight edge against the face of the coupling (where the bolt holes are which are
used for mounting it to the engine flywheel). Place the tri-square (with the depth still set from
the previous step) against the face of the straight edge and move the coupling in or out until
the blade tip of the tri-square just touches the compressor by its coupler mounting bolt holes.
Next move the coupling back (towards compressor and away from you) to give you a gap of
approximately 3/16” as shown below). The reason for this is that when the taper bushing is
tightened, it’ll be drawn back forwards (towards you). In the end, when the coupling is properly
set, you want a gap that is slightly greater than zero but less than 1/32”.
STEP 7
Being careful not to move the taper bushing, move the outer ring of the coupling slightly
backwards (towards the compressor) so that you can get access to the set screw on the
bushing.
Use A 3/16” Allen wrench to tighten the set screw on the bushing to prevent the taper bushing
from moving.
STEP 8
With the set screw tightened, firmly pull the outer ring back towards you so that the outer ring
is fully seated on the taper bushing hub. Insert the three capscrews removed earlier.
Lightly tighten the capscrews with an air wrench.
STEP 9
Place the straight edge against the face of the coupling as before and check the gap to see if
it is greater than zero but under 1/32”. The gap here will lessen as you torque it down fully.
Run a capscrew through the coupling bolt hole and use the airend as a stop (as shown below)
so that the coupling cannot rotate when you torque it to specification.
STEP 10
Moving in a circular pattern, tighten all 3 capscrews to 46 ft-lbs. Repeat tightening them until
the capscrews don’t move when 46 ft-lbs of torque is applied.
Place the straight edge against the face of the coupling as before and check the gap to see if
it is slightly greater than zero but under 1/32”. If the gap is too wide (or not wide enough) you’ll
need reset the position of the taper bushing hub, first you’ll have to break it loose.
STEP 11
If it is necessary to move the taper bushing hub because the gap is incorrect, loosen the
capscrews.
Thread two capscrews into the specially threaded push-off holes and tighten them alternately
until the outer ring breaks free.
STEP 12
Push the outer ring backwards slightly to expose the set screw.
Insert the Allen wrench, loosen the taper bushing and move it as necessary to achieve the
proper gap, then re-tighten the set screw. Repeat steps 8 through 10 until the correct gap is
achieved.
STEP 13
Take a yellow paint marker and mark the correct mounting bolt holes on the coupling.
Take a yellow paint marker and mark the correct mounting bolt holes on the engine flywheel.
STEP 14
! WARNING
HR 2.5 compressors weigh 2,140 lbs. You must use both a chain and a
hoist with lift ratings in excess of the weight of the compressor assembly.
(For the HR 2.5 compressor use the bracket to lift it as shown.)
STEP 15
Set cross-member on powerpack rail as shown (note that the notch goes towards the front of
the compressor).
Lift compressor and place just above mounting holes in cross-member, do not fully set
compressor down on cross-member.
STEP 16
Insert the four bolts (with lock washers) removed during disassembly.
Use an impact wrench to tighten all four bolts.
STEP 17
With the cross-member tightened, lift the compressor and guide it to the back of the engine.
Pay attention to the lines you drew on the coupling and the engine flywheel and align them as
much as possible.
STEP 18
! WARNING
Keep your fingers CLEAR to avoid possible severe injury. Keep your
hand on TOP of the compressor as you guide it.
Always keep your fingers clear when guiding the compressor into the back of the engine, the
stepped nature of the mating surfaces (combined with the weight of the compressor) are
capable of causing severe injuries.
STEP 19
Insert the compressor fully into the back of the engine.
Use a punch to align a previously marked bolt hole on the coupling with a previously marked
flywheel threaded bolt hole. Insert a capscrew and hand tighten to maintain alignment.
STEP 20
Insert the capscrews removed during disassembly.
Torque capscrews to 35 ft-lbs.
STEP 21
Loosen the feed line and move it up to give you full access to the engine-rotation port cover
plate (located at the left rear of the engine).
Remove the two capscrews and remove cover plate.
STEP 22
Place the engine rotation spline tool (58252497) on a 1/2” drive ratchet.
Insert the spline tool into the access port.
(NOTE: On this Cat engine this access port is located at the left rear, on a Cummins engine it
is located at the left front and requires a 1-1/2” socket.)
STEP 23
Lightly tighten the first capscrew you inserted with an air wrench.
Torque the capscrew to 46 ft-lbs.
STEP 24
Continue the process of rotating the engine and inserting.the other 11 capscrews and then
torquing each of them to 46 ft-lbs.
As a matter of good work practice, mark the heads of the bolts as you torque them to ensure
you don’t miss any.
NOTE: If the cross-member was un-bolted from the powerpack base and
the shims fell out; or if a different (new or rebuilt) compressor is
being installed which might having different mounting
characteristics, shimming might be required.
STEP 1
With the compressor bolted up to the engine, and the cross-member firmly bolted to the
compressor, the ends of the cross-member should lie flat on the power pack base. If there is
a gap on one or both sides (as shown below), shims will have to be added.
The shims come in a variety of thicknesses. It would be advisable to have at least three packs
of shim sets (p/n 50518083) available to complete this task.
STEP 2
Try different combinations of shims until you have a tight fit in the gap.
Once you have determined the right combination of different shims required, add one more
0.30” shim to the combination.
STEP 3
With a small pry bar lever the cross-member up so that the shims can be slid into place,
exposing the bolt hole through which the mounting capscrew shall be run up through.
Insert mounting capscrews and associated hardware removed during disassembly and tighten
with an impact wrench.
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