Cosmetic and Cosmeceutical

semisolid dosage forms

Seyed Alireza Mor tazavi, Ph.D.
Professor of Pharmaceutics
School of Pharmacy
Shaheed Beheshti University of Medical
Sciences
• Cosmetic products:
• “Articles intended to be rubbed, poured,
sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or
otherwise applied to the human body or any
part there of for cleansing, beautifying and
promoting attractiveness, or altering the
appearance.”
• Cosmeceuticals: Antidandruff shampoos,
toothpastes containing fluoride, anti-acne
products, sunscreens, deodorants with an
antiperspirant effect, moisturizers with
sunscreen effect, make ups with sun-protection
claims
 Popular Semi-solid dosage
forms for topical application
• Creams
• Ointments
• Gels
• Pastes
Bases and Vehicles
Lanolin, Eucerin, Glyceryl monostearate,
Cetyl alcohol, Stearyl alcohol, Spermaceti,
Liquid Paraffin (mineral oil), Hard Paraffin,
White soft Paraffin (Vaseline, Petrolatum),
White and Yellow wax, PEG, Glycerin, etc.

Simple Ointment (Ointment USP)

Wax (white or yellow) 50g
Petrolatum (white or yellow) 950g

PEG Ointment (USP)

PEG 400 600g
PEG 3350 400g
 Hydrophilic Petrolatum
Cholesterol 3g
Stearyl alcohol 3g
White wax 8g
White petrolatum to 100g

(Protective and water absorbent base)

 Hydrophilic ointment
(washable o/w emulsion)
White petrolatum 25 g
Stearyl alcohol 25 g
Sodium lauryl sulphate 1g
Propylene glycol 12 g
Methyl paraben 0.025 g
Propyl paraben 0.015 g
Purified water to 100 g
 Important considerations
• Selection of vehicle and additives
(skin type and place, age, duration of use)
• Interactions and incompatibilities
• Substantivity, texture and viscosity
• Preservation (Preservative and Antioxidant)
• Stability
• Efficacy
• Irritation testing
 Special issues regarding creams
• Cleansing creams and lotions
(avoid excessive use, can remove skin lipids
leaving skin dry)
• The use of non-ionic emulsifiers in formulations
(tweens and spans, stearates, cetyl alcohol)
• Cold cream (w/o, cooling effect)
• Light creams (water washable, o/w)
• Night creams (spread easily, soft, remain in
place, high oil content, w/o emulsion,
reduce TEWL and a hydrating and emollient
effect, addition of anti-aging compounds)
• Moisturizer creams
[keep skin soft and smooth, contain humectants
for hydrating creams, o/w, occlusive creams,
emollient creams and ointments (w/o)]
• Vitamin-containing creams
Vit. A (e.g. Retinol, Retinyl esters and
Retinaldehyde, sebum formation, Photodamage,
anti-wrinkle and anti-aging, used in amounts less
than 1%)
Vit. B3 (e.g. nicotinic acid, nicotinamide,
nicotinate esters, help to reduce TEWL,
nicotinamide helps to produce collagen)
Vit. B5 (Pantothenic acid and Panthenol,
healing effect, skin hydration, Emollient,
increased dermal elasticity, anti-inflammatory
and anti-itching effect)
Vit. C and Vit. E (antioxidant effect, anti-aging)
Vit. D (skin keratinization and skin repair)
Vit. K (reduce darkness around eyes)
• Vanishing creams (disappear rapidly from
skin, form a clear layer on skin, stearic acid,
cetyl alcohol, o/w)
• Skin lighteners
Cream formulation, remove skin stains, freckle,
Hydroquinone 1.5 – 2 % popular and 5% or even
higher
Aloesin, Arbutin, Ellagic acid, Kojic acid 1%,
Azelaic acid 15 – 20%
Vit. C and E, Silymarin, Alpha lipoic acid
 Popular liquid dosage forms
for topical application

• Various Solutions
• Lotions (suspension or emulsion)
• Collodions
 Selection of solvent/co-solvent
1- Complete miscibility
2- Clarity
3- Viscosity
4- Toxicity
5- Compatibility with other components

Ethanol, glycerin, Propylene glycol, PEG 300,

PEG 400, Isopropyl myristate, Liquid paraffin,
Buffers (phosphate buffer) and diluted acids