LEXICON FOR LIP PRODUCTS

Koushik Adhikari, Lauren Dooley, Edgar Chambers IV

Sensory Analysis Center, Department of Human Nutrition, Kansas State University, Manhattan, KS 66506

INTRODUCTION EXPERIMENT-II
TABLE 3.
DESCRIPTIVE ANALYSIS ATTRIBUTES’ ORDER OF EVALUATION AND EVALUATION TECHNIQUES

Order of Evaluation Evaluation Technique

Initial Texture
Color cosmetics are considered by women to be The specific objective of this experiment was to Smoothness Apply a pea sized amount of product (approximately 1/4 diameter) to thumb,
essential beauty items – one of the few remaining develop a lexicon (appearance and texture attributes move forefinger across thumb surface to gauge the degree of smoothness.

affordable, non-invasive beauty treatments. As of only) that could be used for descriptive analysis of lip Spreadability Spread a pea sized amount of product (approximately 1/4 diameter) onto
forearm using product applicator. If a pot/tub, use a plastic knife to scoop out

November 2005, global cosmetic sales were ~$32.7 products, mainly lip glosses, lipsticks and lip balms. designated amount. Apply the product to one spot on skin. Spread back-and-
forth ONCE with index finger about two inches.
billion. Increases in global sales are fueled, in part, by Experimental: Six highly trained panelists were used. Initial Drag Apply ONE stroke of the product in a right to left motion using finger or
applicator- drag linear- on clean skin of forearm (evaluate product to skin drag)
emerging markets such as Eastern Europe, India, Fifteen lip products were selected from various lip Product to Product Leaving finger or applicator in left position move from left to right across the
China and Latin America. Eastern Europe has shown categories: balms, glosses, and lipsticks.
Drag product already on the skin (evaluate product to product drag).

sales growth for five consecutive years for an Tackiness Tap middle finger on product that has been applied to arm; measure the degree
to which the finger adheres to the product.

average annual increase of 10.2% (Horne 2005). As Results: Initial Appearance (New application)

of 2006, lip products were the third largest segment TABLE 2.

Color Intensity
Shininess
of cosmetics (Datamonitor 2006). The lip product LIP PRODUCT SENSORY ATTRIBUTES, DEFINITIONS, REFERENCES
Wet Apply product with ONE forward and backward stroke to designated spot on
Sensory Attribute Definition Reference and Intensity
a b

category is important worldwide with growth in

forearm. Evaluate these 6 attributes (initial appearance) from only that
Glittery application. Do not apply again.
Initial Texture
various segments of the category depending on Morton’s Iodized Salt = 3.0
Pearl-like
Evenness of the sample; absence Waxy Appearance
region (Feller 2005; Horne 2005; Prance 2007). Smoothness
of grains, clumps, lumps, etc.
Arm & Hammer Baking Soda = 6.0
Johnson & Johnson 24-hour Moisturizer = 15.0 Coverage Apply one back-and-forth stroke of the product to beige/flesh-colored PAPER in
designated 2 × 1 ½ area. Measure the intensity according to the amount (i.e.
Few sensory lexicons appropriate for cosmetic Spreadability
The ease in which the product can
be manipulated on the surface of
Vaseline® = 5.0
Chapstick (Classic) = 9.0
proportion) of area covered by the product (NOT a measure of opacity).

products have been published and those have been the forearm. Johnson & Johnson 24-hour Moisturizer =13.0
Opacity Using the application from “coverage”, evaluate the opacity.
After Appearance (Needs to be measured at times in accordance with the study’s objectives and
proposed for skin creams and lotions (Civille and Dus Initial Drag
The amount of pressure required Johnson & Johnson 24-hour Moisturizer = 1.0
for application of product on clean Zinc Oxide = 6.0
products)

1991; ASTM E 1490-92 1997; Wortel and Wiechers skin. Chapstick (Classic) = 12.0 Feathering Observe any feathering.

2000; Lee et al. 2005). Some terms from prior The amount of pressure required After Texture (Time should be specified for a given study depending on the objectives)
Johnson & Johnson 24-hour Moisturizer = 1.0
Product to for application of product onto Tackiness See under “Initial Texture.”
Chapstick (Classic) = 5.0
studies may be appropriate for lip products, but no product drag skin with one layer of product
already applied.
Zinc Oxide = 12.0 Degree of Absorption With blotting paper, blot product on forearm. Determine the amount of product

application of descriptive sensory analysis was found The degree to which fingers
Johnson & Johnson Baby Oil = 0.0
on the paper. The higher the amount of product on paper, the lower the Degree
of Absorption intensity.
Tackiness adhere to the product; amount of
applied to lip products. Several of those lexicons adhesiveness.
Post-it® Note = 7.5 Amount of Residue With blotting paper, blot product on forearm. Determine the amount of product
left on the skin.
included terminology, definitions and references with Initial
Appearancec
intensities for those products. In addition, several Fig. 1
authors have used a limited number of attributes to
EXPERIMENT-III
Intensity of the color of the White (R: 255, G: 255, B: 255) = 0.0
product on the arm (after Light Pink (R: 255, G: 163, B: 163) = 3.0
describe oleogels and emollients used in lip and skin Color Intensityd
application). Fig. 1 can be Mid-Pink (R: 255, G: 75, B: 75) = 7.5

care products (Parente et al. 2008; Almeida et al.

recreated using Microsoft® Word. Burgundy (R: 176, G: 0, B: 0) = 11.0
Black (R: 0, G: 0, B: 0) = 15.0 The specific objective of the third study was to
2008). In those studies several attributes associated Porter Paints #6890-1 Antique White Flat Finish =
confirm whether the lexicon could be used effectively
0.0
with appearance, pickup, rub-out, and aftereffects Porter Paints #6890-1 Antique White Eggshell Finish
to discriminate among a new set of samples.
were used to study the products. The amount of gloss or shine
= 2.0
Porter Paints #6890-1 Antique White Satin Finish =
Shininess perceived on the surface of the
5.0 Experimental: Six highly trained panelists
Although cosmetic companies may have developed product.
Porter Paints #6890-1 Antique White Semi-Gloss
participated in this study. Four new products were
internal lip product lexicons that information is not Finish = 8.0
Porter Paints #6890-1 Antique White Gloss Finish = selected from each category: balms, glosses, and
published. Therefore, the overall objective of this 12.0
lipsticks. Different brands, packaging, applicators,
The appearance of looking wet; Vaseline® (untouched) = 5.0
study was to develop a lexicon (appearance and Wet
opposite of dry. Johnson & Johnson Baby Oil = 14.0
price points, benefits and claims were utilized to
texture) for lip products which could be used for a Sample composed of individual
Fig. 2A = 2
achieve the most representative group.
Fig. 2B = 6
wide range of products. The study was conducted in Glitteryd reflective particles that have a
sparkling effect.
Fig. 2C = 9

three parts: 1) a focus group to understand key Fig. 2D = 14 Results:

Fig. 3A = 0
attributes, 2) development of a lexicon for use by a Pearl-liked
A soft, reflective luster
reminiscent of a pearl or mother-
Fig. 3B = 2.5
Fig. 3C = 10
trained sensory panel, and 3) confirmation of whether
1.5
of-pearl; gives depth.
Fig. 3D = 13 ($0)
B alm

the lexicon could be used effectively for new samples. Waxy Appearance
The degree to which the product Vaseline® (untouched) = 5.0
$0G los s
looks like paraffin. Gulf Wax® Household paraffin wax = 12 W et S hine 1

Fig. 4A = 2 $0S tick

The amount of testing surface Fig. 4B = 5
Coveraged

EXPERIMENT-I
L 'O R E AL E S T E E L AUDE R
covered by the product. Fig. 4C = 10 0.5
T ackAT
Fig. 4D = 15 L ANC O ME T ack
NE UT R O G E NA MAX F AC T O R
The degree of opaqueness of the
P C 2 (30% )

Opacityd Fig. 5 F eatherB O NNE B E L L

product. S mooth D rag2 R es idue C olorInt2
The specific objective of this part of the study was
B L IS T E X G littery 0
After S pread W ax D rag1 P earl C olorInt

to understand the reasons why women purchase and

W axApp O pacity
Appearancee
Abs orp
R E VL O N
wear lip products, and what attributes are desirable The movement of product from
Fig.
Fig.
6A = 2
6B = 4
R IMME L AL MAY C L INIQUE -0.5

Featheringd
and undesirable in those products. lips into the surrounding skin lines. Fig. 6C = 10 C overage
Fig. 6D = 12

Experimental: Female participants (ages 18-60) who S O F T L IP S -1

After Texture e

used at least two types of lip products were selected

for the focus groups. Two, 90-minute focus groups Degree of
COLOR INTENSITY
Degree of absorption of product
Pillsbury Creamy Supreme (Strawberry) Frosting =
2.0 GLITTERY -1.5 -1 -0.5 0 0.5 1 1.5
-1.5

into the forearm after a ten

were conducted by a professionally trained Absorption
minute period.
Chapstick (Classic) = 8.0
Johnson & Johnson 24-hour Moisturizer = 12.0
P C 1 (48% )

moderator. Amount of A measure of the product left on

Johnson & Johnson 24-hour Moisturizer = 2.0

SUMMARY
Chapstick (Classic) = 8.0
Results: Residue the skin after a ten minute period.
Vaseline®= 12.0
a
References were prepared approximately 24 hours prior to testing each day.

• A lip product lexicon was developed.

b
TABLE 1. Intensity ratings are based on a 0-15 scale with 0.5 increments.
c
SOME CHARACTERISTICS OF LIP PRODUCTS ELICITED BY FOCUS GROUP PARTICIPANTS; AND SOME POTENTIAL Measured after application.
d
Attributes in bold indicate an attribute with picture references.
ATTRIBUTES GENERATED BY THE GROUPS FOR THE DESCRIPTIVE PANEL
e
These effects needs to be measured at times in accordance with the study’s objectives and products. • Descriptive testing using the lexicon was conducted
CHARACTERISTICS OF LIP PRODUCTS
Positive Characteristics Negative Characteristics
to check that the lexicon could differentiate among
Color Flavor Crusty Gritty feel products both within and among categories of lip
Glossy Feels comfortable Waxy residue Gooey/gummy products.
Cannot feel it on lips Slipperiness Sticky Dull
Proper thickness No drag/ easy glide Too thin, too thick Color
PEARL-LIKE COVERAGE • Overall, the lexicon worked well in distinguishing
Long-lasting
Applicator- wand, tube,
Stains lips
Messy between lip glosses, lip balms and lipsticks.
bullet
Moisturizing Aroma Drying Feathering • The four lipstick samples were grouped more
Reasonable price Smooth Smell or taste Cracking
similarly, primarily because of their appearance
Not gritty Shimmer Not true to color Bleeding
attributes.
ATTRIBUTES SUGGESTED BY FOCUS GROUPS FOR TRAINED PANEL
• Scoring overlap occurred for the glosses and balms
Appearance Texture After removal
Glossiness Grittiness Staining
possibly because of common ingredients or
Shimmer Waxy Drying applicator type.
Amount of Color Thickness Moisturizing
Sheerness/Opaqueness Stickiness
• This study tested a wide range, but limited number
Viscosity
OPACITY FEATHERING
of samples in the lip product category.