TYPES OF WOOD FRAMMING

1. Light Wood Framing

a). Balloon Frame. This the lightest form of framing,

in which the studding and corner posts are set up in
continuous lengths from first floor line or sill to roof
plate. Boards called ribbons are notched and nailed
into the studs and corner posts at the proper height
to support the second story joists. A joist is brought
against a stud wherever possible. This type of frame is
lacking in rigidity and is liable to sway and tremble in
heavy winds.

c) Platform Frame. A system of framing for a building

of wood construction several stories high, in which
the studs are only one story high; the floor joists for
each story rest on the top plates of the story below or
on the sole plate of the first story. Also called Western
Framing.

b) Combination Frame. A modification of the old

braced frame which was of heavy timbers with every
joint mortised and tenoned. The modification consists
of lighter timbers and less mortising and pinning to
save material and labor.

Girts are framed into the corner posts at the second

story level joists as well as to brace the whole frame.
The girts which support the floor joist are called drop
2. Heavy Wood Framing of Beam Girder Framing
girts; those parallel to the joists are called raised or
flush girts. The studs run from sill to girt and from girt This is the type of framing used in the Philippines in
to roof plate. Diagonal braces run from sill to corner which the floor joists are carried by girders, and the
posts and from the corner posts to the roof plate. This roof trusses or rafters by girts which frame into the
type of construction is more rigid than the balloon posts. Studs rest on floor sills and extend up the girder
frame. or girt in every floor.
JOINT AND SPLICING

1. Plain Joint (Lap Joint). The plain joint is used in very

hasty construction for temporary framing and is made
by lapping one piece over the other and nailing then
together. It is not a very strong joint.

2. Butt or Square Joint (End Joint). The butt joint is

made by placing full thickness of wood directly against
the second piece. The butt end should be squared and
the sides against which it butts smooth so that the
pieces will be perpendicular to each other. The joint is
toe-nailed.
7. Halved Joint. This joint is made by cutting half the
thickness of the wood from each piece at the ends to
be joined so as to bring the sides flush. The purpose of
this type of joint is to maintain a level surface at the
joint.

3. Oblique Joint. This type of joint is made when the 8. Rabbet Joint. This joint is made by cutting a
two pieces do not meet at right angles, e.g. bracings. shoulder or edge from one piece to receive the other
One piece is cut at an angle to fit the other and the piece. It is used in window or door frames, or in shelf
two pieces nailed securely together. and drawer construction.

4. Spliced or Scabbed Joint. (See Splices) 9. Dado Joint. This is similar in shape and purpose to
the rabbet joint. In the dado joint a groove is made in
5. Scarf Joint. A joint by which the ends of two pieces one piece at right angles to the grain of the other
of timber are united to form a continuous piece; the board. If nails are used, they are needed only at the
mating surface may be beveled, chamfered, notched, end piece since the groove will provide the necessary
etc. before bolting, gluing, welding, etc. strength to hold the other piece in place.

6. Mortise and Tenon Joint. This type of joint is used

for building wooden framework where great strength
and rigidity are all important. It is made by cutting a
hole or mortise in one piece and a tenon or tongue in
the second piece to fit the hole in the other. The
tenon may extend fully through the other piece or
only part of the way.
10. Miter Joint. The miter is a joint between two
pieces which come together at a corner. It is a finish
VARIATION OF LAP JOINTS
joint and should not be used where strength is an
important requirement. It is made by cutting the two
ends at angles complementary to each other, usually
45 degree, and then butting them together. The joint
is secured by clamp nails or finishing nails, corrugated
fasteners or dowels, or by gluing.

11. Dovetail Joint. This type of joint, used for cabinet

work and furniture work, is strong and durable. It is
made by cutting a pin in the shape of a dovetail in one
piece to fit a groove similarly shaped in the other
piece.
VARIATIONS OF MORTISE AND TENON JOINTS

12. Coped Joint. The coped joint is used when fitting

one piece of moulding at right angles to the second
piece.

Other types of joints include the shiplapped joint and

the tongue and grooved joint

SPLICES

The function of a splice is to connect two or more

COMMON WOOD JOINTS FOR FURNITURE
pieces of timber in such a way that the joint will be as
strong as a single timber of equivalent size. Splices are
of three types: for compression, tension and bending.

A. Splices for Compression

1. Scabbed or Fished Splice. Two pieces of timber are
squared at their ends and fitted together. Two short
wood pieces called scabs or metal plates called
fishplates are fastened on either side of the pieces to
be joined. The scabs or fishplates serve to keep the
splice straight and to prevent buckling.