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During Covid-19, people once again began to latch onto the benefits of moringa, a tree that's a highly
nutritious food, medicine and magical talisman all rolled into one.
"Look at how fine those leaves are," said Dika Nanta, pointing up to the
waving branches of a spindly tree. "They're so wispy that at first glance
it's hard to imagine why Balinese people sometimes call this tree 'the
broomstick of the gods'."
The moringa tree (Moringa oleifera) we were looking at really was quite
unremarkable – less statuesque than the rambutan tree nearby and far
less imposing than the mango trees on the other side of the road. Yet
moringa (daun kelor in Bahasa Indonesia) was once believed to have
such intense magical properties that a simple sprig of this "broomstick of
the gods" would be used to brush the evil spirits away from the resting
place of a deceased person.
I planted two 6ft cuttings and within a year and a half they were taller
than our two-storey house. Much of our fence line became a living,
edible fence of moringa.
Despite the fact that the plant is freely available almost anywhere on the
island, you'd rarely, if ever, see it as an ingredient in warungs (local
eateries), let alone on a tourist menu. However, a few chefs, perhaps
tempted by a nutritious and flavourful ingredient that is freely available,
are reviving the tradition.
"That's right, we still also mash the leaves to put on cuts," Rasta
interrupted. As a hired driver, he often visits other Indonesian islands.
"The only people I know who don't eat moringa are the West Javanese,"
he recalled. "They believe so strongly in the magical cleansing power of
moringa that they use it to wash dead bodies before burial. They think it's
very strange that we Balinese eat it!"
Both Dewi and Rasta also agreed that witches and sorcerers – aspects
of Balinese belief that, even today, remain very real – can never eat
moringa: "Anyone who's involved in black magic must avoid the tree at
all costs," Dewi said. "It's so pure that just a handful of these tiny leaves
can cancel the effect of black magic."
"There's so much you can do with the leaves, but I've been
experimenting with other parts of the plant too," Hammond said. "Once
the flowers are dried you can even fry them as a delicious alternative to
mushrooms."
In fact, the Balinese use every part of the tree. While the leaves are most
commonly boiled for soup or jamu (a medicinal pick-me-up drink), the
sword-like seed pods can be stir-fried or used in a stew. It's said that the
root is poisonous but that a small section brewed as tea is a remedy for
intestinal worms.
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