WOMAN’

SJACKETFOUNDATI
ON

G.
L.

G.
L.
G.
G.

L.
L.
G.

G.
L.
L.

G.
L.
 WOMAN’
SJACKETFOUNDATI
ON
Tracet
hefrontandbackbodi
ce/dresspat
ter
nswithdart
suntil
thehi
psli
ne+5cm.
Add2,5cm ofeasefort
hefol
lowingpoint
s:bust
,wais
t,hipsand+1c mtos
houl
der
s
andacrossback.Att
hearmholemov edownby1, 5cm.
AttheCFadd2, 5cmfortheoverl
ap.

BACK
AttheCBs tar
ti
ngfrom t
hepointAmar kdown11c m andmov ein2cm att
hewaistand1cm atthe
hem.Joinpoint
swithsli
ghtl
ycurvedline.
From t
hesideli
nemov eintowardtheCB6c m anddr awapar al
l
ell
inef
rom thear
mholetothehem.
Thisi
sas i
depar tt
hatwil
lbetransfer
redtothefront.Atthebackar
mholemar kt
wonotchesmoving
downby10c mfrom t
hes houl
derpoint.DrawaGr ainLine.

FRONT
Reducet hedar tinthewai
stby1c m andtransf
erthedr awnside(6c m)f r
om thebackt
othefront
si
deli
ne.
Atthewai st
linedivi
deinhalft
hemeas ur
ementbet weennewdar tpointandt hesi
deanddraw
ali
nefrom t hearmholetothehem.
Al
ongt hisnewl i
nedrawa3c m dar
tinthewai st
l
ine,mar kup15c m andmar kdown10c m.
Drawal ineof14c mfort
hewel tpocketstart
ing1c m befor
ethedar tpoint.
Drawac ol
lar(fol
lowthebasiccoll
arinst
ructi
on).
Atthefrontar mholemarkonenot chmov i
ngdownby10c mfr
om thes houlderpoi
nt.
DrawaGr ainLine.
Al
lpat
ternsmustberet
raced:f
ront-
2,si
deandback–1.
Di
vi
defrontasshowningraphi
cforthef
aci
ngandli
ning.Addt
oal
lpat
ter
nsGr
ainLi
neandnot
ches.

NG
FACI
DE

NG
G.
G.

G.
SI

NI
L.
L.

L.
LI

Fr
ont
:cutal
ongthepocketl
i
neanddar
tli
neunti
lthedar
tpoint
.Cl
osetheshoul
derdart
.
Fr
om t
hedartpoi
ntmovedownby3cm andredrawthedar
t.AddGrai
nLineandnotches
G.
L.
 CLASSI
CCOLLARFOUNDATI
ON

Thefoundati
onofthi
scoll
ari
sanexampleofconst
ruct
ion
ofot
herdif
ferentc
oll
arpat
ter
nswi
thlapel
.

Add2,
5cmf
ort
hesi
ngl
e-br
eas
tedov
erl
ap.

B-B1=13c m( themeas ureisv ariabl e

anddependsont hedes ireddept hoft henec kl
i
ne)
G-G2=mov et other ight1, 5c m
G2-P=J oinG2wi t
hB1andex tendt hestraight
l
ineuntilitcrossest heov er
lapl ine
(t
herolll
ineoft hel apel )
G2-G3=ex t
endt hes ames traightl i
ne( G2- P)
upwardwi t
hequal bac knec kmeas urement+0, 5cm
G3-G4=Squar eeper pendic ul
arl ine( G3- P)
t
ot heleft3,5c m andj oinwi thG
G4-R=Squar eaper pendi cularl inewi thG4- G
t
owar dther ight7, 5c m
G2-Q =1/ 6ofc hes tcircumf erenc e+1c m
Q-P1=al ongt her olllineoft hel apel markl ower4c m
P1-P2=f rom P1s quar et owar dt her i
ght6- 10c m
(t
hemeas urec anbev ari
ed)andj oinP2wi t
hQ
P2-P3=f rom P2mov et ot hel eft4c m
P3-P4=f rom P3mov et ot her ight4c mk eepingbetween
t
wopoi nts3- 4c m( t
hemeas urec anbev aried)
DrawaGr ai
nLi neandnot chesass hown.

Tracethecol
lartwice.
Theuppercoll
artraceonf ol
danddrawaGrainLi
ne.
From t
heex t
ernalpar t
softheunder
col
l
arcutaway3mm
anddrawbiasgr ainl
ine.
G.

UPPERCOLLAR
L.

BI
AS

UNDE
RCOL
LAR
 SLEEVEFOUNDATI
ON
A-B=½ c hestsemici
rcumf.–1c m
C=½ AB
A-D=1/10c hestsemicir
cumf.
D-E=¼ c hestsemici
rcumf.
E-F=A-B( sl
eevewidth)
A-G =sl
eevelength(sz.42=63c m)
G-H=A- B
C-N=elbowmeas ur
ement( sz.42=35c m)
P=½ B- C
Joi
nFwi t
hP,mov eup2c m andenlarge2cm

UPPERSLEEVE:
Movedown3c mfrom Dpoi ntandt raceas t
raight
l
inetowardtherightof7c m.
D-D1=mov ein2,5c m anddr awt hes l
eevec ap
l
ineass hown.
O-V=3c m andtraceal i
nec onnec ti
ngVwi t
hD1.
Ont hi
sli
ne,attheelbowl evel,mov etotheleft3c m
anddrawas eam l
ine(ass hown).
Drawas li
t,i
fdesir
ed( 14c mlengthand4c m wi dth)
.
Drawas hortli
nemov ingin1c m attheelbowl evel.
Foll
owingthegraphicdrawahem l ine.

UNDERSLEEVE:
From FandHpoi ntsmov etowardthelef
t3cm andtrace
as t
raightli
ne.
Forthes hor ts eam l
ine:att het
opmov edown0,5cm
andmov ein1c m attheel bowlevel.
Forthel ongs eam li
ne:f r
om O mov etowardt
heleft
2c m andatt heelbowl i
nemov et owardt
heri
ght1c m
f
rom thes traightli
neD1- V.
Drawas li
t,ifdes i
red( 14c mlengthand4c m wi
dth)
.
Compl etethear mholef ol
lowingthegraphi
c.
UPPERSLEEVE

Traceunders l
eevewi t
hall
mar ki
ngs,notchesand
GRAI
UNDERSLEEVE

checkifboths eam l
inesmatcheswithupper sl
eeve.
NLI
NE
NLI

NE

AddGr ainLineanddr awnotchesby11c mf r

om
GRAI

t
heCpoi nt(
twof orbackandonef orfront)
.
 SEWI
NG STEPSOFTHEWOMAN’
SJACKET.

Appl
yt hefusi
ngtothefr
ont,f
acing,col
l
arsandcutf
usi
ngst
ri
pesof8cmf
ort
he
hem oftheback,sl
eevesands i
des.

SEWI
NG STEPS.

FABRI C:
Closefrontdart
s ,i
ronshapingt hedartpoint
.
Sewt hefrontwiththeside,ir
onopeningt hes eam esewt
hesi
ngl
ewel
tpocket
(sewinstr
ucti
ons ).
Sewt heCent erBac k(
don’tattachthes i
de).
Sews houldersofthebac kandf r
ontt
ogetherandiron.
Sewt heunder coll
aronbiasandi r
ons eamsopen.

LI
NING:
Prepar
et hefr
ontoftheli
ningandsewitwit
hthefaci
ng.
SewCBpl eat
sandas sembletoget
hershoul
der
softhefr
ontandback.
I
ronallseamstowardones i
de.
Att
achtheuppercoll
ar(GL)andironseamsopen.

ASSEMBLI
NG THEJ
ACKETI
NFABRI
CWI
THTHELI
NING:

Sewtheperimeteroft
hej ack et(nohem) ,t
urnoverandi
ronv er
ywell
.
Fi
xbothcoll
arsbyhands t
it
c hingfrom t
heinsideandsewsideswit
htheback(
fabr
ic
wit
hfabr
ic,l
ini
ngwithli
ning).
I
ronhem ands ewitwit
hl i
ning.
Fi
xhem withhands t
it
ching.

SLEEVES:

Assembl etogetherthel ongers eam ofunder sleeveandupper sl

eev eandpr eparet
hes l
it
.
I
rons eamsopenandi ront hehem.
Opent hehem ands ewt hes horts i
deofthes leevestogether
.
Foll
owingt hes amepr oc esss ewt heli
ning,sewt ogetherhem oftheli
ningwi t
hthefabr
ic.
Fi
xhem wi t
hhands t
itching.
Preparet heeas eatthec aplineands ewthes leevewiththejacket(t
hes l
eeveinfabri
c
wit
hjac ketinf
abr i
candl i
ningwi thli
ning).
Turnov erthejacketfrom t heleftholeatthes hortseam ofthesleeve.Closethishol
eby
handormac hine.