Coats

Sewing Solutions

“The Stitch Types”

Presentation for IGTC

Presented by M. Ismail Firdaus

Sr Technical Development Manager
Coats Indonesia, Jakarta
 Stitch Types & Cons. Ratios

 The elementary basis of sewing is stitch. A series of recurring

stitches of one configuration are defined as stitch type.
 Every stitch type is formed by 5 basic stitch formation.

 Stitch Type Classification:

 ISO number/Class 100 Single Thread Chainstitch.
 ISO number/Class 200 Handstitch.
 ISO number/Class 300 Lockstitch.
 ISO number/Class 400 Multi Thread Chainstitch.
 ISO number/Class 500 Overedge/Overlock Chainstitch.
 ISO number/Class 600 Flat Seam Stitch.
 Stitch Types & Cons. Ratios

Stitch types

Lockstitch Chainstitch

Oscillating shuttle Rotary hook

* Domestic * Industrial

Rotary looper Oscillating looper

* button stitching * 2T - Chain
overlock coverseam
 Class 100 Chainstitch
 Stitch type 101.
 Stitch is formed by one thread introduced from one side
of the material only.
 Single thread chainstitch (101) is often used for
temporary stitching (eg: basting) or blind stitching.
 Particular care is required to prevent runback from the
last stitch.
 Class 100 Chainstitch
 Stitch type 103.
 This type of stitch is formed with one thread and a
curved needle which passes from left to right, entering
and exiting from the same side of the material carrying
a needle thread which is intercepted by a blind looper.
 Particular care is required to prevent runback from the
last stitch.
 The thread interloops with itself on the top surface.
 Class 200 Handstitch
 Stitch type 209.
 Stitch is formed by one thread introduced/passed from
one side of the material in successive needle
penetrations.
 Originating as hand stitches, they are now often formed
by machine, sometimes referred to as Saddle Stitch
(209).
 Class 300 Lockstitch
 Stitch Type 301.
 Stitch is formed by a needle thread introduced from one
side of the material interlacing with an underthread.
 Stitch is formed in the middle of the fabric.

 Advantages:
 Stitch is reversible.
 Uses least amount of thread.
 Tightest stitch and seam construction.
 Ideal for multidirectional sewing.

 Disadvantages:
 Lower productivity.
 More susceptible to thread breaks.
 Class 300 Lockstitch
 Stitch Type 304.
 It is commonly referred to as the Zig-Zag Lockstitch.
 To produce the zig-zag appearance, the needle bar moves laterally
as the material is fed.
 This type of stitch is formed with two threads: one needle thread
(A) and one bobbin thread (B). A loop of thread (A) is passed
through the material and interlaced with thread (B).
 Thread (A) is then pulled back so that the interlacing is midway
between surfaces of the material or materials being sewn.
 Class 400 Chainstitch
 Stitch type 401.
 Needle thread loop is interconnected with two loops of one
underthread. Loops of thread (A) are passed through the material
and interlaced and interlooped with loops of thread (B).
 Stitch is formed in the underside of the material.

 Advantages:
 Greater productivity.

 Greater seam strength.

 Reduces seam pucker.

 Higher seam stretch.

 Disadvantages:
 Seam runback.

 Increased bulk under the seam.

 Class 400 Chainstitch
 Stitch type 404.
 It is commonly referred to as the Zig-Zag Chainstitch. The
formation is similar to 401 stitch.
 To produce the zig-zag appearance, the needle bar moves laterally
as the material is fed.
 Loops of thread (A) are passed through the material and interlaced
and interlooped with loops of thread (B). These interloopings are
drawn up against the underside of the bottom ply of the material
being sewn.
 Class 400 Chainstitch
 Stitch type 406.
 It is commonly referred to as the two/twin needle coverseam.
 This type of stitch is formed with three threads: two needle threads
(A & A1) and one looper thread (B).
 Loops of the needle threads (A & A1) are passed through the
material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of thread (B).
 These interloopings are then drawn against the underside of the
material being sewn.
 Class 400 Chainstitch
 Stitch type 407.
 It is commonly referred to as the three needle coverseam.
 This type of stitch is formed with fourthreads: three needle threads
(A, A1 & A2) and one looper thread (B).
 Loops of the needle threads (A , A1 & A2) are passed through the
material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of thread (B).
 These interloopings are then drawn against the underside of the
material being sewn.
 Class 400 Chainstitch
 Stitch type 408.
 This type of stitch is formed using five threads; two needle threads
(A & A1), two looper threads (B & B1) and one Top covering thread
(C). This stitch is two rows of 401 two thread chainstitch with a top
covering thread laid on the upper surface of the mtl being sewn.
 Loops of the threads (A & A1) are passed through the material and
interlaced and interlooped with loops of threads (B & B1).
 The top covering thread (C) is laid between and around the needle
threads on the surface of the material. The interloopings of the
needle and looper threads are drawn up against the underside of
the bottom ply of the material being sewn.
 Class 500 Overedge stitch
 Stitch type 503.
 This type of stitch is formed with two threads: one needle thread
(A) and one looper thread (B).
 Used to neaten the cut edge of a single ply of fabric or to seam and
neaten the edge of two plies in one operation. This can be used in
conjunction with a chain stitch (401) to obtain a 4 thread overlock
(515).
 Needle thread determines strength.
 Advantages of overedge stitch :
 Greater seam stretch.

 Greater machine productivity

 Disadvantages of overedge stitch:

 Bulky seams.
 Class 500 Overedge stitch
 Stitch type 504.
 This type of stitch is formed with three threads: one needle thread
(A), one lower looper thread (B), and one upper looper thread (C).
 Loops of the needle thread (A) are passed through the material
and interlooped with loops of thread (B) at the point of penetration
on the underside of the material.
 The loops of thread (B) are extended to the edge of the material
and there interlooped with loops of the upper looper thread (C).
Loops of thread (C) are extended from this interlooping point of the
needle penetration of the next stitch and there, they are interlooped
with thread (A). This can be used in conjunction with a chain stitch
(401) to obtain a 5 thread overlock (516).
 Class 500 Overedge stitch
 Stitch type 505.
 This type of stitch is formed with three threads: one needle thread
(A), one lower looper thread (B), and one upper looper thread (C).
 Stitch type 505 is very similar to stitch type 504. The main
difference is that in stitch type 505 the lower looper thread (B) is
tighter and the needle thread (A) is looser than in stitch type 504.
 Stitch type 505 is a three thread version of stitch type 503
 Class 500 Overedge stitch
 Stitch type 512.
 This type of stitch is formed with four threads: two needle threads
(A & A1) a lower looper thread (B) and an upper looper thread (C).
 Loops of the needle threads (A & A1) are passed through the
material and interlooped with loops of thread (B) at the point of
penetration on the underside of the material.
 The loops of thread (B) are extended to the edge of the material
and there interlooped with loops of thread (C). Loops of thread (C)
are extended from this interlooping point of the needle penetration
of the next stitch and there, interlooped with thread (A).
 Class 500 Overedge stitch
 Stitch type 514.
 This type of stitch is formed with four threads: two needle threads
(A & A1) a lower looper thread (B) and an upper looper thread (C).
 Loops of the needle threads (A & a1) are passed through the
material and interlooped with loops of thread (B) at the point of
penetration on the underside of the material.
 The loops of thread (B) are extended to the edge of the material
and there interlooped with loops of thread (C). Loops of thread (C)
are extended from this interlooping point of the needle penetration
of the next stitch and there, interlooped with threads (A1 & A2).
 Class 500 Overedge stitch
 Stitch type 515.
 This type of stitch is formed by simultaneously sewing.
 One row of stitch 401, using threads (A & B), a
specified distance from the edge of the material, and
one row of stitch type 503 using threads (A1 & B1) on
the edge of the material.
 Class 500 Overedge stitch
 Stitch type 516.
 This type of stitch is formed by simultaneously sewing.
 One row of stitch 401, using threads (A & B), a
specified distance from the edge of the material, and
one row of stitch type 504 using threads (A1, B1 & C)
on the edge of the material.
 Class 600 Flatseam
 Utilize between 2 & 4 needle threads, one looper and
one or two cover threads.

 Advantages:
 High seam elasticity.
 Flat, comfortable seams.
 Used as decorative seams.

 Disadvantages:
 High thread consumption.
 Class 600 Flatseam
 Stitch type 602.
 This type of stitch is formed with 4 threads: two needle
threads (A) and (A1) ; one looper thread (B); and one
cover thread (C).
 Loops of thread (A) and (A1) are passed through loops
of thread (C) already cast on the surface of the
material, and then through the material where they shall
be interlooped with loops of thread (B) on the
underside.
 Class 600 Flatseam
 Stitch type 605.
 This type of stitch is formed with 5 threads: three
needle threads (A), (A1) & (A2); one looper thread (B);
and one cover thread (C).
 Loops of thread (A), (A1) and (A2) are passed through
loops of thread (C) already cast on the surface of the
material, and then through the material where they shall
be interlooped with loops of thread (B) on the
underside.
 Class 600 Flatseam
 Stitch type 607.
 This type of stitch is formed with 5 threads: three
needle threads (A), (A1) & (A2); one looper thread (B);
and one cover thread (C).
 Loops of thread (A), (A1) and (A2) are passed through
loops of thread (C) already cast on the surface of the
material, and then through the material where they shall
be interlooped with loops of thread (B) on the
underside.
 Thread Consumption Ratios
Stitch type Consumption ratios Needle to
underthread ratios
2T- Lockstitch: 301 1 cm stitching = 2.5 cm 1:1
thread
1T – Chainstitch: 101 1 : 4.0 -

2T – Chainstitch: 401 1 : 5.5 1:3

2T – Overlock/serging: 503 1 : 12.0 1.2 : 1

3T – Overlock: 504 1 : 14.0 1:5

4T – Safety: 515 1 : 18.0 1 : 1.4

5T – Safetystitch: 516 1 : 20.0 1 : 3.4

5T – Coverseam: 605 1 : 28.0 1 : 3.5

 Needle Applications
Stitch type Needle Scarf type Usage
system
Lockstitch DB x 1 Standard Normal Lockstitch
DB x K5 Standard Larger eye for smaller
holes
DP x 5 Standard Button hole
DP x 17 Standard Normal Lockstitch
Overlock DC x 1 Normal Overlock
DC x 27 Pontoon Reduces skip stitches
Chainstitch DV x1 None Twin needle chainstitch
DV x 43 None 2 - 3 Needle Flatlock
UY128GAS Standard 2 - 3 Needle Flatlock
TQ x 1 Standard Button attaching
TQ x 7 Standard Button attaching
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Sewing Solutions

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