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Sewing Solutions

Stitches and Seams 101 – Single thread

In this module we will look at the application chainstitch
of the sewing thread and specifically stitches
and seams.

Sitch forming devices

The basic principle of all machine sewing The 101 Single thread chainstitch is formed
depends on consistent loop formation. using just one sewing thread introduced by
During sewing the needle descends through the sewing needle. Stitch Type 101 is most
the fabric to the bottom of its stroke and as often used for temporary stitching [or
the needle rises a loop of sewing thread is basting]. Its main disadvantage is its
formed in the scarf of the needle. This loop tendency to run back from the finishing end
of sewing thread is picked up by one of two of the seam.
stitch forming devices namely the hook or
the looper. A third stitch forming device
known as a spreader is used in some stitch
types to carry the sewing thread from one 103 – Single thread
stitch forming device to another. Blindhemming
The sewing machine hook be it rotary or
oscillating shuttle interlocks the needle
thread with the bobbin thread. A looper,
used in chainstitch formations, interloops the
thread that it carries with another thread.

A derivative of stitch type 101 is stitch type

103 known as single thread Blindstitch or
Blindhemming. Again its main disadvantage
5 Steps of stitch formation is seam runback. This stitch is formed by
There are five basic steps to the formation of using a curved needle which enters and
all stitch types. They are: exits the fabric from the same side carrying
1. Penetration – the needle penetrates a needle thread. The needle thread
the fabric carrying the needle thread interloops with a blind looper on the surface
2. Loop formation – a loop of sewing of the material. Typical applications are
thread is formed in the scarf of the hemming and lapel padding operations.
needle as the needle begins to rise
from the bottom of its stroke
3. Conformation – this is where the
threads are arranged above, below
or around the material being sewn
4. Cast off – is where the needle
thread loop is freed from the lower
stitch forming device
5. Stitch setting – when the thread is
drawn onto or into the material

Stitches and Seams

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301 – Lockstitch the 401 chainstitch has higher elongation

than the 301 lockstitch and delivers lower
seam pucker when the cause of the pucker
is structural jamming.
A

Rotary hook
B
Multi needle lockstitch and
chainstitch

The most common stitch type is without

doubt the 301 single needle lockstitch. Its
main advantage is that it looks the same on
the top as it does on the bottom [it is
reversible]. It produces tight, strong, low-
bulk seams but its main disadvantages are
low elongation and low productivity due to
the need to frequently change the under
thread bobbin.
Double Needle Lockstitch Double Needle Chainstitch
Basic stitch type 301 x 2 Basic stitch type 401 x 2
Both 301 lockstitch and 401 chainstitch
machines are available to produce multiple
rows of stitching. The most common is twin
needle but multiple needle chainstitch
machines are readily available.

401 – Chainstitch
Zig Zag Stitch – Stitch types
304 and 404
A

B
Looper

Where there is a requirement for higher

Higher productivity and greater seam
elongation can be achieved by using a 401
single needle chainstitch. The
disadvantages of using this stitch type are
that it isn’t reversible and being a chainstitch
it is prone to seam runback and the seams it
produces tend to be bulkier than those
created by a lockstitch. It is true to say that
seam elongation with either lockstitch or
chainstitch, a zig zag formation may by
used. For example, in corsetry. To produce
either zig zag formation the needle bar
moves laterally as the material is fed. The
main drawback is that the zig zag stitch
formation may not deliver the desired
appearance.

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406 – Coverseam
A
A
1
B
Derivatives of the 401 chainstitch are the
chainstitch coverseam stitch formations. The
most common of these is the 406 twin
needle coverseam. This stitch type is formed
using two needle threads and one looper
thread and its main uses are hemming of
garments made from knitted fabric and
elastic/lace attaching on underwear and
lingerie.
Stitch type 407 coverseam is a three needle
version of this stitch type. A four needle
version is available but it is not in common
use.
503 – Two thread overedge
(serging)
A
B
Overedge stitch formations are all contained
under the 500 classification. 503 two thread
overedge is the stitch type used for single
ply serging and the hemming of tee shirts.
This is sometimes known as welting.
Stitch type 503 is not suitable for seaming
operations as it is designed to collapse and
flatten when a seam is loaded laterally.
Stitches and Seams
504 – Three thread overedge
A
C
For seaming, stitch type 504 three thread
overedge is commonly used. Because the
movements of the sewing machine are short
high machine speeds are achievable
resulting in high productivity. This stitch type
also delivers excellent seam elongation and
high strength.
Four thread overedge
For over edge seams requiring greater seam
security a four thread version of stitch type
504 is used. There are three, four thread
over edge stitch types.
Stitch type 512 is known as
four thread mock safety because the upper
side of the stitch type resembles the upper
side of stitch type 516 which is an overedge
true safety stitch. Stitch type 512 is also
known as four thread overedge, half cover.
The second overedge stitch
type is Stitch type 514. This is known as four
thread overedge, full cover. This is because
the top looper extends its thread to the left
hand sewing needle whereas stitch type 512
only extends its upper looper thread to the
right hand sewing needle.
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The third of these stitch
types is Stitch type 515.
515 – Four thread safety
stitch
A
1
B
B
1 Stitch type 602 is the same as stitch type
This stitch type is formed simultaneously
using one row of stitch type 401 and one
row of 503.
516 – Five Thread full safety
Stitch type 516 is another combination stitch
type. This stitch type combines 401
chainstitch with 504 three thread overedge.
It is known as five thread overedge full
safety stitch. The 401 element bears the
load while the 504 element covers the edge
of the material and provides additional seam
security.
Stitches and Seams
602 – Twin needle coverseam
with top cover
The stitch type classifications known as 600
are basic coverseam stitch types with the
addition of a top covering thread produced
using a top cover or spreader device. This
top cover element provides decoration and
also protection where required to the upper
surface of the seam.
A
A1
C
406 but with the addition of a top covering
thread.
606 – Flatlock
The 606 flatlock is formed
using nine threads. Four needle threads,
four looper threads and one top covering
thread. It is the highest thread consuming
stitch type at around 46 metres of thread per
metre of seam.
607 – Flatseam
A
A1
A2
A3
C
The 606 flatlock has over the years been
replaced to a large extent with stitch type
607 flatseam. This stitch type is produced
using four needles, one looper, and one top
covering thread.
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Whilst thread consumption remains high

with this stitch type it is lower than the 606
flatseam at 32 metres of thread per metre of
seam. The 600 stitch type classifications
have the advantage of delivering flat,
comfortable seams with high seam
elongation.

Stitch type classifications

Here we have a summary of the most commonly used stitch types for apparel manufacturing.
Stitch types are grouped into class 100 to 600. Broadly speaking as the stitch type number
increases so does the thread consumption and the complexity of the stitch.

CLASS DESCRIPTION POPULAR STITCHES COMMENTS

Single thread 101 Single thread chainstitch

100 chainstitch 103 Blindstitch
Use the least amount of thread

209 Single needle imitation

200 Hand stitch
hand stitching

301 Two thread lockstitch Stitch used on 90% of garments,

300 Lockstitch
304 Zigzag 1 to 1 ratio of thread consumption

401 Single needle two thread

Multi-thread chainstitch
400 chainstitch 406 Twin needle coverseam
407 Three needle coverseam

503 Two thread Overedge

(serging, welting)
504 Three thread Overedge
(and serging)
Serging & Safety
500 stitch
512 Four thread (Half cover)
Mock Safety
514 Four thread (Full cover)
515 Four thread Safety
516 Five thread Full Safety

602 Twin needle coverseam

with top cover
Coverstitch or 605 Three needle coverseam
600 Flatseam with top cover
Uses the largest amount of thread
606 Flatlock
607 Flatseam

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Thread consumption guide by stitch type

Shown here is a thread consumption guide by stitch type for the more common stitches used for
apparel manufacturing.

RATIO OF THREAD
STITCH CONSUMPTION PER No. OF NEEDLE TO UNDER
DESCRIPTION
TYPE UNIT OF SEAM NEEDLES THREAD RATIO
LENGTH
Two thread
301 2.5 : 1 1 1:1
lockstitch
Two thread
401 5.5 : 1 1 1:3
chainstitch
Two thread
503 12 : 1 1 1.2 : 1
overedge
Three thread
504 14 : 1 1 1:5
overedge
Four thread
515 17.5 : 1 2 1 : 1.4
overedge
Five thread
516 20 : 1 2 1 : 3.4
overedge

607 Flatseam 32 : 1 4 1 : 3.5

Seaming
The sewing threads work together in the
seam and should be applied at the lightest
possible tension whilst achieving a balanced
stitch to achieve optimum seam strength
and seam elongation. In chain stitch derived
stitch types the looper threads have higher
consumption than the needle threads
consequently it is always the needle thread
that fails first when the seams are
excessively loaded. Adjustment of the
amount of thread in the seam is mainly
determined by the stitch rating and the
thread tensions.
Seams
A seam can be defined as a series of
stitches and stitch types which are used to
join two or more plies of material together.
Seams are load bearing and in order to give
optimum performance should be engineered
to have physical properties, in terms of
strength and elongation, similar to those of
the materials being sewn.

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Lapped seams

The strongest of seam

types is the LSc-3 lapped seam. In this case
two or more plies of fabric are lapped with
the edges overlapped and sewn using one
or more rows of stitches usually 301 or 401.
This produces a strong seam with the fabric
edges prevented from fraying.

Bound seams
Superimposed seams

Sometimes for decorative or

In much the same way that functional purposes the edges of the seam
stitch types have a standard classification may require to be bound. Bound seam types
code so do seam types. These seam type are categorized as BS. There are a variety
classifications are important when of bound seam types. The one shown here
communicating garment construction details is BSc-1.
from one department to another, one factory
to another, or market to another.
Understanding the main seam type
classifications reduces the risk of otherwise
costly mistakes. The most common seam
Flat seams
type is the plain seam type SSa-1. This
seam type comprises two or more plies of
fabric laying on top of each other which are
then sewn using 301, 401 or any of the 500
overedge stitch types.

Flat seams are categorized

as FS. These seams are sometimes referred
to as butt seams. For flat seams the edges
of the materials are brought together and
oversewn usually with coverstitch, flatlock,

Stitches and Seams

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or flatseam stitch types. In some cases 304
zig zag may be used. FSa-1 produces a low
bulk, flat, comfortable seam making it ideal
for underwear, babywear and foundation
type garments.
Ornamental stitchings
Some seam types are
intended to be decorative rather than
functional. Ornamental seam types such as
the one shown here, OSb-1 which includes
the insertion of piping using stitch type 406
deliver a decorative effect to the garment.
Edge finishing stitchings
The neatening of a single
ply of fabric, known as serging rather than
seaming, employs edge finishing seam
types known as EF. Derivatives of edge
finishing include blindstitch hemming.
Seam engineering
Garments are made up using a range of
different stitch and seam types. The
engineering of the seam is more than just a
matter of looking up the specification on a
chart. There are many factors to be
considered if high quality, durable seams
Stitches and Seams
are to be produced. The most important
characteristic of any seam is seam strength.
Seam strength
The main factors that drive seam strength
are the seam type, the stitch type, stitch
density, fabric strength, thread strength, and
the tension at which the thread is applied in
the seam.
A lap felled seam is the strongest of all
seam types because the fabric is lapped
upon itself and the sewing threads
contribution is mainly to hold the lapped
plies in place.
A butt seam may give a flatter seam profile
but in this type of seam the thread bears the
entire load.
The 301 lockstitch is the most common
stitch type in use, but it is easily damaged.
chainstitch and overedge stitch types deliver
higher seam strength and greater
extensibility than a lockstitch.
The number of stitches over a given length
of seam, “the stitch density” has a direct
influence on seam strength. Up to a point
higher stitch ratings create stronger seams.
Although too many stitches result in a
weakening of the material.
The seam should be engineered to deliver a
balance between the stitching and the
strength of the material being sewn. In most
cases it is better for the stitching to fail prior
to the material failing because the stitching
can be repaired.
Generally speaking the stronger the thread
the stronger the seam. Where two different
threads are used in the same seam it is
important to remember that the contribution
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to seam strength is only that made by the For chainstitch, using the same stitch rating
weaker of the two threads in the seam. and the same sewing threads the seam
strength can be calculated to 29.9kg.
Thread tension is critical in delivering
appropriate seam strength and seam 16 X 1100 X 1.7 = 29,900g or 29.9kg
elongation. If the thread is too tight in the
seam it’s natural elongation is withdrawn
allowing the thread to fail prematurely. This
is particularly true when garments are
subjected to after-make laundry processes.

Determining seam strength

In order to illustrate the contribution that
stitch rating and thread strength make to
overall seam strength these equations
illustrate a simple method of estimating
seam strength based on these two
parameters.

For lockstitch, approximate seam strength

can be determined as the number of stitches
per inch multiplied by the single thread
strength multiplied by 1.5

Seam strength = SPI X STS X 1.5

For chainstitch, the approximate seam

strength can be derived from the stitches per
inch multiplied by the single thread strength
multiplied by 1.7

Seam strength = SPI X STS X 1.7

For example, when using a stitch rating of

16 stitches per inch and a thread which has
a breaking strength of 1100 grams.

For lockstitch, the overall seam strength is

26.4kg.
16 X 1100 X 1.5 = 26,400g or 26.4kg

Stitches and Seams