A Green, Sustainable Cotton ala Cotton is indigenous to India and one of the few “Old World” varieties that is still being cultivated on a large scale in India. Farmers in Gujarat can grow mung beans or cotton. If there is less rain in a season, they decide to Puech Ueno ac RI ah aca SCe Un Cac) makes it a sustainable crop. India's rich and diverse textile Regie Se UN ener sen amet items MRE LTe| craftsmanship, with each thread carrying the legacy of Cem ow eaten aca CE keaonec i Sey) unique and indigenous variant that has garnered recognition Pee Recess ace ae Rea Rech nc Ie OTT aie cen sce Poer ome acai eco ec aro) environmentally conscious choice in India's textile landscape. Its journey is one of historical significance, facing challenges in the wake of modernisation, and ultimately emerging as a Ree en ae eT A OMIM Cauaa Reaur elaine eee e (ct Rell te ime Ue Re Rt ee ee Ct Bele cd drought resistance, natural pest resilience, and the ability to MC Cen TSC cure uC MCR etc eee (Tie RRR eel Coca a cele Veen Cy the result of hand spinning and natural dyeing, techniques ee aru ech anne ieeeMe 4 fre unique attributes have made Kala {Cotton an emblem of sustainable agriculture, 2 ¢ evoking a sense of pride among those who _ appreciate the importance of preserving traditional knowledge. The history of Kala Cotton traces back to the time of the Harappan civilization, around 2500-1500 BCE. During this period, it was one of the primary cotton varieties used for weaving textiles, and the cotton was handspuned and dyed using natural pigments. The dark-coloured fabric produced was distinct and earned it the name "Kala," which means black. This historical legacy establishes Kala Cotton as a testament to the enduring traditions of cotton cultivation and handloom weaving in India. Kala cotton is indigenous to Kachchh and by default ‘organic, as the farmers do not use any pesticides or synthetic fertilisers. It is a purely rain-fed crop that has a high tolerance for both disease and pests and requires minimal investment. It is both resilient and resurgent in the face of stressful land conditions. It is one of the few genetically pure cotton species remaining in India and one of the only species of pure and old- AREA world cotton to be cultivated these days. It produces a robust, stretchy, coarse fibre that is frequently used in denim. Over time, its use in mainstream markets has greatly decreased because of its short staple length, which results in fewer twists per inch of yarn, making it difficult to make excellent- quality textiles. Desi cotton strains are indigenous to Asia and Africa and have a short staple length of less than 32mm. Kala cotton is one of 20 strains of desi cotton that were once grown extensively in India. It was the traditional source of fabric yarn in pre-Independence Kutch. However, desi cotton (and with it, kala cotton) was relegated to the bottom of the textile hierarchy during colonisation in India. Cultivated Area Organic) 1764677.15 Ha Cultivated Area(in conversion) 3627115.82 Ha Wild Harvest Collection Area 4780130.56 Ha PRODUCTION* Farm Production(Organic) 2664679.54 MT_ Farm Production(In conversion) 288146.75 MT Wild Harvest Production 19468.21 MT. ORGANIC EXPORT Total Export Quality 312800.51 MT Total Export Value (INR) Rs.5525.18 Crore MT Total Export Value (USS) 708.33 Million USD Source: APEDA, Information provided by the certification bodies accredited under NPOP Note: * The data on production is the commercial output for sale and not the actual production. 4 at y4 IBEP Peon the early years of British rule in India in ethical benefits of Kala Cotton also presented a > ‘the 1600s until independence in 1947, desi significant hurdle. Many consumers remained ) 2 ~cotton was usually exported to Britain, initially unaware of the sustainable and environmentally <__ Wasa cheaper alternative for the masses. Despite conscious aspects of choosing Kala Cotton the decline in the cultivation of desi cotton products over conventional cotton, further during colonisation, a large portion of the total___impeding the demand for this unique textile. land used for cotton contributed to the growth of varieties of desi cotton. This has changed post-independence. However, over the years, the dominance of modern cotton farming techniques and hybrid cotton varieties has posed a significant challenge to Kala Cotton. The allure of higher yields, irrespective of the need for more water and chemical inputs, led farmers to shift away from traditional cotton cultivation practices. This shift threatened the continued existence of Kala Cotton and its associated traditional knowledge. Despite these challenges, the story of Kala Cotton takes a turn toward hope and revival through innovative solutions and efforts by various stakeholders. Several initiatives have been pivotal in the resurgence of Kala Cotton. Efforts to promote traditional and organic farming practices have been undertaken by Non-Governmental Organisations (NGOs) and government agencies. These practices include rain-fed farming, reduced pesticide use, and the utilisation of natural fertilisers. By promoting sustainable agricultural techniques, Kala Cotton's cultivation becomes more ecologically One of the primary challenges Kala Cotton sound and less resource-intensive. encountered was the competition from high- yielding hybrid cotton varieties that dominated The handloom sector has played a crucial role in the Indian cotton landscape. These hybrid the revival of Kala Cotton. Government varieties offered more significant economic initiatives and non-profit organisations have benefits but came at the cost of increased water _ supported traditional weavers, enabling them to consumption and chemical pesticide use. This adapt to modern market demands while competitive disadvantage led to a decline in preserving their age-old handloom traditions. Kala Cotton cultivation as farmers turned to The promotion of handloom weaving has not commercially more viable alternatives, only provided a platform for showcasing Kala jeopardising the survival of this unique cotton Cotton's unique fabric but has also revived variety. traditional craftsmanship. Creating direct market linkages has been another pivotal In addition to competition, Kala Cotton faced strategy. This involves setting up dedicated Kala challenges related to marketing and Cotton outlets, participating in textile distribution. The absence of an established exhibitions, and collaborating with fashion marketing and distribution network specifically designers to promote the fabric. By bridging the tailored for Kala Cotton made it challenging for —_gap between producers and consumers, Kala a traditional cotton growers to access markets Cotton products have gained recognition and x and sell their products. The lack of awareness found a market that appreciates their unique among consumers about the ecological and qualities. lel : > », > wt *Rwareness campaigns have played a significant role in educating consumers about Kala Cotton's ecological and ethical aspects, These campaigns have highlighted the sustainability of Kala Cotton, emphasizing its contribution to preserving indigenous knowledge and supporting local communities. By creating awareness, Kala Cotton has moved from being a hidden gem to an ethical and ecological choice for consumers. ABOUT KALA COTTON INITIATIVE Khamir began this initiative in 2007, by partnering with Satvik, an association of organic farmers in Kachchh, to explore the production possibilities for Kala Cotton. In order to devise a method for turning cotton into yarn, Knamir and Satvik first conferred with several specialists due to the cotton's short staple length, which makes spinning and weaving challenging. Furthermore, it was necessary to convince the local weavers about the advantages of Kala Cotton, which poses a special challenge. It was mainly because weaving requires the modification of the loom's configuration in addition to using different yields and shafts. In 2010, following years of trial and error to develop spinning and weaving methods, Khamir started manufacturing its first Kala Cotton products. These days, the Kala Cotton Initiative promotes cotton textile production that is sustainable and compatible with the environment in the area The project worked with marginalised groups and promoted locally cultivated species to develop a value chain at many levels. Khamir and Satvik established a supply chain with Kala IBER Cotton farmers, ginners, spinners, and weavers to transform raw cotton into hand-woven goods in order to carry out this effort. It is envisaged that in due course, other communities would be able to emulate the Kala Cotton Initiative. ‘About Organic Cotton: Organic is a system that eliminates highly toxic substances from the environment and works holistically for the benefit of people and the planet in the long run Organic farming is in tune with the environment. To develop their crops, farmers make full use of natural cycles and systems, and it all begins with the soil. Farmers may raise robust, healthy crops by taking care of the land beneath our feet. Good soils promote good harvests through methods including crop rotation, composting, and the use of green manures. Additionally, biodiversity is increased, and natural methods of pest control are employed in place of artificial fertilisers and poisonous, harmful pesticides due to their prohibition. Organic cotton has become the most famous sustainable textile in India, the leading producer of organic cotton (51%), with 1.23 million tonnes produced in 2022. By 2028, it predicted that the market size of organic cotton will reach USS 6.73 billion. It is expected to grow at a CAGR of 40.0% in the 2021-28 period. There has been continuous growth in the production of organic cotton in India, which stood at 801,934 Metric Tonnes (MT) in 2020-21 as against 335,712 Metric Tonnes (MT) during 2019-20, and 312,876 Metric Tonnes (MT) during 2018-19.State 2016-17 2017-18 STATE WISE PRODUCTION OF ORGANIC COTTON DURING 2016-2021 (Production Quantity in MT) 2018-19 2019-20 2020-21 Madhya Pradesh 74027.06) 82737.87 91925.51 84701.23| Maharashtra 21455.54| 33447.94 58423.37| 63720.49| Gujarat 22364.55) 55858.71 51020.28| 55898.8| Odisha 23034.4 58545.71 74001.57| 103312.96| 13625.58) 15412.85 34033.27| 23211.39| 20.08 578.86 363.35, 1152.12| 0 1790.42 2369.82 439.26 1316.74 1343.86| 0 1.16) 1.16 154966, 247438) Source: Press Information Bureau SUSTAINABLE COTTON TRENDS IN INDIA Sustainability has become a significant word in the textile industry, and cotton, one of the world's most widely used natural fibres, is at the forefront of this movement. In India, where cotton has deep cultural and economic roots, sustainable cotton trends have gained momentum, representing a significant shift in both farming and fashion practices. This transformation is driven by a growing awareness of the environmental and social impacts of conventional cotton cultivation and a recognition of the need for more responsible alternatives. One of the key sustainable cotton trends in India is the promotion of organic and rain-fed cotton farming. Organic cotton farming eliminates the 312876: 335712| use of synthetic chemicals, opting for natural and eco-friendly alternatives. This approach not only reduces the environmental footprint but also safeguards the health of farmers who come into direct contact with these chemicals. Rain- fed cotton cultivation, another sustainable practice, relies on natural rainfall rather than extensive irrigation. This reduces the pressure on water resources, contributing to water conservation efforts in regions where water scarcity is a pressing issue. By minimising water use and decreasing the ecological impact of cotton farming, these trends have made significant strides toward a more sustainable future. ‘An essential aspect in terms of sustainable cotton trends is the empowerment of cotton farmers and local communities. Such practices related to sustainable farming aim to improve the livelihood of cotton farmers, ensuring they receive fair compensation for their labour while working in safe and healthy conditions. Various initiatives such as Fair Trade and Better Cotton Certification promote ethical practices and social responsibility in the supply chain of cotton. Fair Trade Certification provides assurance that farmers are receiving fair wages and working in better conditions. This helps to enhance the socio-economic status of cotton- producing communities and fosters a sense of pride and dignity among the farmers. It aligns with the idea of sustainability, emphasising the need to protect both the environment and the people who depend on it. i el > y 4,4 whe. Better Cotton Initiative is one of the » 4 S& initiatives which provides responsible cultivation _y methods to farmers to promote sustainable cotton farming practices. It focuses on reducing the use of synthetic chemicals, promoting efficient water management, and ensuring ethical labour practices. It also contributes to the sustainability of cotton farming by empowering farmers with the required knowledge and resources. Sustainable cotton trends extend beyond the fields and into the fashion industry. The textile and fashion sectors have a pivotal role to play in ensuring that cotton, from responsible sources, makes its way into the hands of consumers. Ethical fashion brands are increasingly choosing sustainable cotton for their products, highlighting the importance of responsible sourcing in the industry. One of the growing trends is the use of eco- friendly and energy-efficient manufacturing processes. Ethical fashion brands are continuously adopting sustainable practices in every stage of production, from dyeing and printing to garment manufacturing. This eventually reduces the environmental footprint of textile production and ensures that the end products are not only fashionable but also environmentally responsible. Transparency and traceability have become core values for ethical fashion brands. Consumers are demanding more information about the ori IBEFS and sustainability of the products they purchase. This trend has led to an increased emphasis on supply chain transparency, allowing consumers to make informed choices and support brands that prioritise sustainability. Innovations in textiles and materials are driving sustainability in fashion. From recycled cotton to the development of organic and biodegradable fabrics, the fashion industry is constantly seeking alternative materials that have a lower impact on the environment. These innovations align with the broader goal of reducing waste and promoting circular fashion, where products are designed to be reused or recycled. Though there has been significant progress in sustainable cotton trends in India, some challenges still need to be addressed. The high initial costs associated with transitioning to organic or rain-fed cotton farming can be a barrier for some farmers. It’s essential to get access to education, resources, and infrastructure to overcome these barriers and ensure a broader adoption of sustainable practices. In the fashion industry, the willingness and awareness of consumers to pay a premium for sustainable products also play a crucial role in driving and adopting ethical practices. One of the biggest challenges is to bridge the gap between the demand of consumers and the cost of sustainable production. Some initiatives that promote sustainable fashion, such as eco-, a friendly certifications and labelling, help to gain the confidence of consumers in the choices that. they make. ey os y4 teow AND FUTURE OF SUSTAINABLE > 23 CLOTHING IN INDIA ” There has been a boom for sustainable clothing in India, considering the significant shifts in consumer demands, the rise of ethical fashion brands, and growing awareness of environmental and social impacts. Since the world is facing the ecological consequences of fast fashion and unethical manufacturing processes, India is supporting and embracing sustainability as a cornerstone of its fashion and textile industries. There are several sides to this emerging movement, which reflects a holistic strategy that includes ethical sourcing, responsible manufacturing, and a call for innovation and transparency. One of the prominent factors fueling the trend toward sustainable clothing in India is the evolving mindset of consumers. People are becoming more aware of how their fashion choices affect society and the environment. Consumers are now more likely to support companies that place a high value on morality and sustainability in their supply chains. As customers become more conscious of issues like pollution, water shortages, and unfair labour practices in the fashion industry, they look for clothing compatible with their values. Various Indian fashion businesses and retailers have been compelled to reassess their sourcing and manufacturing procedures owing to the Il IBEE shift in consumer behaviour. Ethical fashion brands have been at the forefront of the sustainable fashion industry in India. Such brands place a strong emphasis on responsible sourcing and production. They prioritise the use of eco-friendly materials such as organic cotton, bamboo, and recycled fabrics. Sustainable manufacturing practices and the use of natural dyes are two ways ethical fashion firms lessen their negative environmental effects. These companies frequently embrace fair trade policies, guaranteeing that their employees are paid fairly and have safe working conditions. Not only does the emphasis on ethical labour practices enhance the lives of individuals ‘employed in the apparel industry, but it also appeals to consumers who wish to make morally conscious fashion decisions. Another essential component of the sustainable clothing movement is transparency in the fashion supply chain. Consumers are becoming more and more insistent on receiving details about the origins and sustainability of the goods they buy. In response, a lot of companies are working to create transparent supply chains that cover everything from raw materials to finished goods. Customers get confidence from this transparency, which also empowers them to choose ethical and sustainable companies with knowledge. Innovations in materials and fabrics are essential to the sustainability of Indian fashion. The industry is always looking for options that have less of an impact on the environment, from the creation of organic and biodegradable fabrics to the utilisation of a recycled resources. These innovations align wit . the broader goal of reducing waste and promoting circular fashion, where products are wi uA YIBEF designed to be reused, recycled, or repurposed, further contributing to sustainable practices. The rise of sustainable clothing in India is also being influenced by laws and government initiatives. The Indian government has implemented incentives and policies in recognition of the significance of sustainable fashion. Initiatives like "Make in India" and "Khadi India" support regionally produced and environmentally friendly textiles. Furthermore, certifications such as ‘Organic’ and 'Handloom' are becoming more and more important since they reassure customers that products meet strict ethical and sustainable requirements. These official approvals and certifications give sustainable apparel credibilit and aid in its commercialization Collaboration between the private sector and Non-Governmental Organisations (NGOs) is driving sustainable fashion forward in India, Various initiatives and projects are aimed at empowering and educating local communities, especially in rural areas, about the benefits of sustainable practices. By providing training and resources, these collaborations enable communities to embrace sustainable livelihoods and contribute to the sustainable clothing movement. Kala Cotton is a testament to the resilience of traditional practices in the face of modernisation and commercialisation. Its revival showcases the co-existence of local communities and sustainable practices in a globalised world. Kala Cotton's significance extends beyond fabric; it embodies the preservation of cultural heritage, the conservation of indigenous knowledge, and the promotion of sustainable and ethical choices in India's textile industry. Sustainable cotton trends in India represent a paradigm shift that transcends the cotton fields and extends to the fashion industry. The environmental imperative to reduce the ecological impact of cotton farming has led to the promotion of organic and rain-fed cotton cultivation. These practices not only reduce the environmental footprint but also safeguard the health and livelihoods of cotton farmers. Empowering farmers through initiatives like Fair Trade and Better Cotton Certification is a crucial step towards sustainability. The fashion industry has also embraced responsible sourcing, ethical fashion brands choosing sustainable cotton and adopting eco-friendly manufacturing processes. Transparency, traceability, and innovations in textiles further contribute to a more sustainable fashion landscape. While challenges exist, the future of sustainable cotton in India looks promising, driven by a growing awareness of environmental and social issues. The shift towards sustainability in India's cotton industry holds the promise of a more responsible and environmentally conscious future. :