ST Petersburg

Eyewitness TRAVEL
st. petersburg
churches • music
palaces • history
restaurants • WALKs
Hermitage • architecture
canals • ballet • hotels
the guides that show you what
others only tell you
St Petersburg
tersburg Area
A by Area
reea
This book divides central St Petersburg into ﬁve areas,
each of which has its own chapter. Often the city’s
waterways create natural area boundaries but some-
times a main road deﬁnes the border. Most sights are
concentrated within this part of town, but there are a
number of places of interest just outside the colour-
coded centre. These are covered in the chapter Further
Afield (see pp124–131). The sights outside the city limits
are described in Beyond St Petersburg (see pp140–165).
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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
ST PETERSBURG
by Toshkolab
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
ST PETERSBURG
MAIN CONTRIBUTORS:
CATHERINE PHILLIPS
CHRISTOPHER AND MELANIE RICE
www.touristas.clan.su
CONTENTS
HOW TO USE
THIS GUIDE 6
PROJECT EDITOR Anna Streiffert

ART EDITOR Marisa Renzullo
EDITOR Ella Milroy
US EDITORS Mary Sutherland, Michael T. Wise
DESIGNERS Gillian Andrews, Carolyn Hewitson,
Paul Jackson, Elly King, Nicola Rodway
VISUALIZER Joy Fitzsimmons
MAP CO-ORDINATORS Emily Green, David Pugh
PICTURE RESEARCH Brigitte Arora
DTP DESIGNERS Samantha Borland, Sarah Martin, Pamela Shiels
Bronze model of ship, a symbol
MAIN CONTRIBUTORS of St Petersburg
Catherine Phillips, Christopher and Melanie Rice
PHOTOGRAPHERS INTRODUCING
Demetrio Carrasco, John Heseltine ST PETERSBURG
ILLUSTRATORS
Stephen Conlin, Maltings Partnership, Chris Orr & Associates, FOUR GREAT DAYS IN
Paul Weston ST PETERSBURG 10
Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore
PUTTING
Printed and bound by South China Printing Co. Ltd., China
ST PETERSBURG
First American Edition, 1998 ON THE MAP 12
04 05 06 07 08 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Published in the United States by THE HISTORY OF
DK Publishing, Inc., 375 Hudson Street, ST PETERSBURG 16
New York, New York 10014
Reprinted with revisions 2000, 2001, 2004, 2007 ST PETERSBURG
Copyright 1998, 2007 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London AT A GLANCE 32
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED UNDER INTERNATIONAL AND PAN
P -AMERICAN
COPYRIGHT CONVENTIONS. NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE ST PETERSBURG
REPRODUCED,-STORED IN A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED IN ANY FORM THROUGH THE YEAR 50
OR-BY ANY MEANS, ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING,
OR OTHERWISE, WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE
COPYRIGHT OWNER.
PUBLISHED IN GREAT BRITAIN BY DORLING KINDERSLEY LTD.
ISSN 1542-1554
ISBN 978-0-7566-2436-1
THROUGHOUT THIS BOOK, FLOORS ARE REFERRED TO IN ACCORDANCE
WITH EUROPEAN USAGE, I.E. THE “FIRST FLOOR” IS ONE FLOOR UP.
Front cover main image: Golden cupolas at Tsarkoe Selo
The information in this

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as Petersburgers enjoying the snow
possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such outside the Admiralty
as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging
arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The
publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising ST PETERSBURG
from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party
websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this AREA BY AREA
book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the
views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: VASILEVSKIY ISLAND
Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides,
Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain. 56
The grand façade of the Hermitage in winter sunlight
GETTING TO
ST PETERSBURG
218
GETTING AROUND
ST PETERSBURG
221
ST PETERSBURG
STREET FINDER
230
Little Stable Bridge crossing the Moyka river
GENERAL INDEX 246
PETROGRADSKAYA TRAVELLERS’
64 NEEDS
PALACE EMBANKMENT WHERE TO STAY
74 168
GOSTINYY DVOR RESTAURANTS AND

96 CAFES 178
SENNAYA PLOSHCHAD SHOPS AND MARKETS

114 194
15th-century icon of St George and
the Dragon, Russian Museum
ENTERTAINMENT IN
ST PETERSBURG
200 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
258
SURVIVAL GUIDE
PHRASE BOOK
PRACTICAL AND
INFORMATION TRANSLITERATION
208 260
Golden statues of the Grand

Cascade at Peterhof
FURTHER AFIELD
124
THREE
GUIDED WALKS
132
BEYOND
ST PETERSBURG
140 St Isaac’s Cathedral, lavishly decorated inside with more than
40 different stones and minerals
6 H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

T his guide will help you to get
the most from your visit to St
Petersburg, providing expert
recommendations as well as detailed
practical information. Introducing St
sights, using maps, photographs and
illustrations. The sights are arranged in
two groups: those in the central districts
and those a little further afield. The
guided walks reveal three characteristics
Petersburg maps the city and sets it in of the city – the canals, the Neva and the
its geographical, historical and cultural islands. Beyond St Petersburgg describes
context, with a quick-reference time- sights requiring one- or two-day excur-
line on the history pages giving the sions. Hotel, restaurant, shopping and
dates of Russia’s rulers and significant entertainment recommendations can
events. St Petersburg at a Glancee is an be found in Travellers’ Needs, while the
overview of the city’s main attractions. Survival Guidee includes tips on every-
St Petersburg Area by Area starts on thing from transport and telephones to
page 54 and describes all the important personal safety.
FINDING YOUR WAY AROUND THE SIGHTSEEING SECTION
Each of the seven sightseeing areas is colour- by-Street map illustrating a particularly interes-
coded for easy reference. Every chapter opens ting part of the area; for sights beyond the city
with an introduction to the area it covers, limits, by a regional map. A simple numbering
describing its history and character. For system relates sights to the maps. Important
central districts, this is followed by a Street- sights are covered by several pages.
1 Introduction to the area

For easy reference, the sights are
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SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
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Historical Buildings and

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Hotels and Cafés

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The golden dome off St Isaac’s Cathedral above elegant façades along the Neva
The area shaded in pink

is shown in greater detail
on the Street-by-Street map.
2This gives a bird’s eye view

Street-by-Street map
of interesting and important

parts of each sightseeing area,
with accurate drawings of all
the buildings within them. The
numbering of the sights ties in
with the preceding area map
and with the fuller descriptions A suggested route for a
on the pages that follow. walk is shown in red.
H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E 7
ST PETERSBURG AREA MAP

The coloured areas shown on
this map (see pp14–15) are the
five main sightseeing areas into
which central St Petersburg has
been divided for this guide. Each
is covered in a full chapter in the
St Petersburg Area by Area section
(pp54–131). They are also shown
on other maps throughout the
book. In St Petersburg at a
Glance (pp32–49), for example,
they help you locate the most
interesting museums and palaces
or where to see the city’s many
delightfully designed bridges.
The maps’ coloured borders
match the coloured thumb tabs
on each page of the section.
Numbers refer to each Practical information lists all the

sight’s position on the information you need to visit every
area map and its place sight, including a map reference to
in the chapter. the Street Finder maps (pp238–45).
3 Detailed information
on each sight
All the important sights are described
ndividually. They are listed to follow
he numbering on the area map at
he start of the section. The key to
he symbols summarizing practical
nformation is on the back flap.
A Visitors’ Checklist provides

the practical information you
will need to plan your visit.
Story boxes highlight unique

aspects or historical connections
of a particular sight.
4 St Petersburg’s major sights

These are given two or more
full pages in the sightseeing area
in which they are found. Buildings
of interesting architecture are
dissected to reveal their interiors;
museums and galleries have
colour-coded floorplans to help Stars indicate the best
you find important exhibits. features or works of art.
ST PETERSBURG
FOUR GREAT DAYS IN

ST PETERSBURG 1011
PUTTING ST PETERSBURG
ON THE MAP 1215
THE HISTORY OF ST PETERSBURG 1631
ST PETERSBURG AT A GLANCE 3249
ST PETERSBURG THROUGH THE YEAR 5053
10 I N T R O D U C I N G S T P E T E R S B U R G
FOUR GREAT
A DAYS IN
ST PETERSBURG
I n just 300 years St Petersburg has

had many faces. Peter the Great’s
folly, built on a swamp and
intended to turn Russia’s face
towards the West, soon became
national pride. TToday it is R
Russia’s cul-
tural capital, with a wonderfully
preserved heritage and an inter-
national arts programme. Taken
together, these four itineraries
a magnificent city reflecting the encompass the city’s sight-seeing
majesty of the Russian Empire. highlights. Individually, they
Then it was the “cradle of the show the influences that shaped
Revolution”, where Lenin came The victory
monument
the city: imperial, Russian and
to power. During the Second Soviet. The price guides include
World War it became a symbol of the cost of travel, food and admission.
RUSSIAN CITY
• Icons and incense

• A traditional lunch
• Shopping for souvenirs
TWO ADULTS allow at least US$180
Morning
This itinerary leads you to the
best traditional RRussian sights
of St Petersburg, a city where
European influences can be
more evident then Russian.
Rastrelli’s masterly main staircase at the Winter Palace Start at the Russian Museum
(see pp104–7), the world’s
Afternoon finest collection of Russian
IMPERIAL CITY Head back along Galernaya art. Marvel at the Church on
ulitsa to Decembrists’ Square Spilled Blood’s (see pp100–1)
• Art and opulence (see p78) – the Bronze Horse- glittering interior, then head to
• Grand squares and views man, a statue of Peter the Kalinka-Malinka (see p187)) for
• Remembering Rasputin Great, rears up at its centre. a traditional R
Russian lunch.
There are fine views across
TWO ADULTS allow at least US$215 the river to Vasilevskiy Island,
lined with rich mansions and
Morning handsome institutions.
The day starts at the centre Turn round, and take in
of the city with the Baroque St Isaac’s Cathedral (see
Winter Palace (see pp92–3), pp80–1), topped by a gilded
once the official residence of dome. It took from 1818 to
the imperial family and now 1858 to construct this colos-
the heart of the Hermitage sal structure, which, since
museum (see pp84–93). the Soviet era, has been
Concentrate on the magnifi- designated a museum.
cent state rooms, where the Under 1 km (half a mile)
Tsars received important west, the Yusupov Palace (see
guests. Do not miss the view p120) has an exhibition on
over vast Palace Square (see Grigoriy Rasputin, the “holy
p83), which incorporates the man” murdered here by
glorious sweep of the General Prince Felix Yusupov. Dine in
Staff Building, formerly home the garden pavilion of the pal-
to the state ministries and now ace at Noble Nest (see p188)
part of the museum. Relax or, for a more modest outlay,
with a leisurely walk along at 1913 (see p186) – the year
the embankment to Krokodil the Romanovs celebrated 300 The Russian Revival-style Church on
(see p186) for a light lunch. years on the throne. Spilled Blood
St Petersburg – View of the Troizkoi Bridge, by 19th-century artist J Schroeder

F O U R G R E A T D AY S I N S T P E T E R S B U R G 11
Afternoon
Inspired by the morning’s
sights, nip across to the
Souvenir Market (see p199),
which sells everything from
icons to fur hats.
Then take the green metro
line from Gostinyy Dvor to
Ploshchad Aleksandra Nev-
skovo to Alexander Nevsky
Monastery (see pp130–1).
Many of Russia’s notables,
including Tchaikovsky and
Dostoevsky, are buried here.
As the afternoon fades, you
may like to attend a magical The still-operational mint at Peter and Paul Fortress
candlelit choral service at the
Church of the Annunciation. cells, displays on the history sounded the 1917 Revolution,
Round off the day with a of the city, Peter the Great’s is moored a short distance
visit to nearby Slavyanskiy rowing boat, and a rampart away. For lunch, Georgian
stil (see p191), a shop selling climb. In summer, the park Salkhino (see p185) is nearby.
wonderful Russian linen. surrounding the fortress has
In the evening, visit the all kinds of family attractions. Afternoon
ballet (see pp202–3) or dine Also in the park is Zver A little further north, the
among folk dancers at St (see p185), a restaurant small Kirov Museum (see
Petersburg (see p188). For surrounded by trees where p72) is devoted to the head
both, book ahead. adults can relax while their of the city’s Communist
children run around. Party, Sergey Kirov, whose
After supper, take the assassination in 1934 promp-
A FAMILY DAY OUT metro to Krestovskiy Ostrov, ted a wave of executions.
then a short walk to the To appreciate the Soviet
• Awesome views western spit of Yelagin Island glorification of the People’s
• Gruesome specimens (see pp136–7), where there achievements, take the metro
• Food in a forest are fine sunsets and an ice to Moskovskaya and the
• Skating or the circus rink in winter. Or, if it is too Victory Monument (see p131),
cold, how about a visit to the whose awesome underground
FAMILY OF 4 allow at least US$130 Circus (see p201) ? Memorial Hall shows life
during the Siege of Leningrad.
Morning Then take the metro back to
The day starts with a stiff SOVIET CITY Tekhnologicheskiy Institute
climb up to the colonnade and ride the red line between
of St Isaac’s Cathedral (see • Revolutionary heritage sites Avtovo and Ploshchad Voss-
p80–1) for panoramic city • Monuments to the People taniya, where each station tells
views. Then cross the Neva • Soviet-themed dining a part of the history of the city
to the Strelka (see pp58–9) of (see p214). Finally, dine at
Vasilevskiy Island to take in TWO ADULTS allow at least US$90 Lenin’s Mating Call (see p188)
one of the museums there or Russian Kitsch (see p184).
(see p60): the Zoological, the Morning
Naval or – if your family likes To indulge a fascination for
pickled freaks and weird Leningrad, “Cradle of the
wonders – the Kunstkammer. Revolution”, start at the city
A pleasant walk across the centre’s edge at the Smolnyy
river takes you to Petrograd- Institute (see p128), home of
skaya (see pp64–73). Head to the Revolution and later of
the inexpensive Pelmeni Bar the Communist Party.
for a filling lunch or, for Opposite, catch bus No. 46
something lighter, try vegetar- or No. 76 and ride past the
ian T
Troitskiy Most (see p193). monument to Dzerzhinsky,
father of the Soviet secret
Afternoon police, past the Field of Mars
The focus of Petrogradskaya (see p94) where the dead of
is the Peter and Paul Fortress the Revolution are buried,
(see pp66–7), with its opulent and across the river to the
cathedral and grim history. Museum of Russian Political
Attractions include the tombs History (see p72). The Cruiser The Avtovo metro station celebrat-
of the Romanovs, prison Aurora (see p73), whose guns ing post-war car production
12 I N T R O D U C B U R G
Putting St Pete bu
burg on the Map
The Russian Federation
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 Orthodox church during the atmospheric White Nights.
I N T R O D U C I N G S T P E T E R S B U R G 17
THE HISTORY OF
ST PETERSBURG
F
ounded in 1703, within ten years St Petersburg had become
capital of the vast Russian empire and quickly gained a reputa-
tion as one of Europe’s most beautiful cities. In the 20th century
it underwent three name changes, three revolutions and a 900-day
siege. For a city less than 300 years old, it has an amazing history.
Some 850 years before St Within 50 years, an army
Petersburg became capital led by Moscow’s Grand
of R
Russia, local Slavic tribes Prince Dmitriy Donskoy
invited the Viking chieftain won a first victory over the
Rurik to rule them. His suc-
R Mongols, and the idea of
cessor founded Kiev, which aRRussian nation was born.
grew into a great prince- During the long reign of
dom. In 988 Grand Prince Ivan III (1462–1505) the
Vladimir adopted Orthodox Mongols were finally van-
Christianity with profound quished and Moscow’s
consequences; Orthodoxy prestige increased. Ivan
was to become a corner- the Terrible (1533–84)
stone of Russian identity. was the first to be called
Paradoxically, Russia only Ivan IV “the Terrible” “Tsar of All the Russias”.
emerged as a united entity Yet his reign, which began
during the 250-year domination of in glory, ended in disaster. Ivan killed
the Muslim Mongols. In 1237 these his only heir, and the so-called Time
fierce tribes conquered all the princi- of T Troubles followed as Russia came
palities except Novgorod. In the 14th under a succession of weak rulers and
century the Mongols chose Moscow’s Polish usurpers invaded Moscow.
power-hungry grand prince, Ivan I
(1325–40), to collect tribute from other THE FIRST ROMANOVS
subjugated To end this strife, in 1613 the leading
principalities. citizens chose Mikhail Romanov to
This sealed be tsar, thus initiating the 300-year
the fate of the Romanov rule. Under Mikhail, Russia
Mongols for, recovered from her upheavals, but
as Moscow his greatest legacy was his son Aleksey.
thrived under Intelligent and pious, Aleksey moder-
their bene- nized the state, encouraging an influx
volence, she of foreign architects, codifying laws
Mongol warriors in a 14th- also became and asserting the power of
century manuscript illustration a real threat. the state over the church.
TIMELINE
862 Rurik establishes Viking 1480 Ivan III stops
stronghold at Novgorod 1147 Moscow paying tribute to
is founded Mongols 1605–13
863 Cyril and Methodius create Time of Boris
early version of Cyrillic 1462–1505 Reign of Ivan III T
Troubles Godunov
800 1000 1200 1400 1600

1108 Town 1223 First 1242 Alexander 1533–84 1613 Mikhail
988 Prince of Vladimir Mongol raid Nevsky defeats the Reign of Ivan Romanov
Vladimir converts is founded Teutonic Knights IV the Terrible becomes first
to Orthodox tsar of the
Christianity 1240 Mongol rule 1598 Boris Godunov claims title of Romanov
established in Rus tsar after 12 years as regent dynasty
Peter the Great instructing his workers during the building of St Petersburg (Alexander von Kotzebue, 1862)
PETER THE GREAT spent drilling toy soldiers as a child

In the transition from a medieval to a developed into a full-scale reform of
more modern state, the future Peter the Russian army. But Peter’s dream
the Great, founder of St Petersburg, was of a R Russian navy. In 1697, he went
was born. After his father Aleksey’s on a European tour to study shipbuild-
death, Peter’s childhood ing and other wondrous
was overshadowed by achievements. To every-
severe rivalry between one’s dismay the young
his mother’s family, the tsar spent more hours
Naryshkins, and that of working at the docks
his father’s first wife, the than socializing at court.
Miloslavskiys. At the age On his return to R
Russia he
of ten Peter ascended the lost no time in enforcing
throne, but the Streltsy westernizing reforms.
Guards, influenced by the
Miloslavskiys, started a A NEW CAPITAL
bloody revolt. As a result It was Peter’s determina-
his sickly half-brother Ivan tion to found a northern
became his co-tsar, and port with an unrestricted
Ivan’s sister Sophia their Peter the Great (1682–1725) passage to the Baltic that
regent. The memory of led to war with Sweden,
seeing his family brutally killed caused at the time one of the strongest count-
his hatred of Moscow and distrust of ries in Europe. By May 1703 Peter had
its conservative, scheming society. secured the Neva river and began to
When Ivan died in 1696, the 24-year- build the Peter and Paul Fortress and
old Peter had grown to a giant of a a shipyard opposite (see pp20–21).
man with a tempestuous combination Only an autocrat with Peter’s drive
of willpower and energy. Long hours could have succeeded in building a
View of St Petersburg in the early 17th century, with the Admiralty shipyard to the left
TIMELINE
1672 Birth of 1689 Peter banishes 1697–8 Peter tours 1698 Peter 1703 St Petersburg is founded
Peter the Great at Sophia to Novodevichy western Europe destroys the
Kolomenskoe Monastery, Moscow Streltsy Guards 1712 Seat of government
Palace, Moscow (see p20). moves to St Petersburg
1680 1690 1700 1710
1682 The Streltsy 1696 Ivan V dies; 1700 Start of Northern 1714 Peter
rebellion. Peter Peter becomes War against Sweden forbids the
becomes co-tsar with sole ruler. use of stone
half-brother Ivan V, 1709 Victory over Charles XII in buildings,
under regency of his of Sweden at Battle of Poltava except in
half-sister Sophia Sophia, regent 1682–9 St Petersburg
T H E H I S T O R Y O F S T P E T E R S B U R G 19
THE PETTICOAT PERIOD

LIFE AT ELIZABETH’S COURT For most of the rest of the 18th century
When Elizabeth was not busy looking Russia was ruled by women, whose
over architectural plans, she would lie taste did much to set the celebrated
around on her bed, gossiping with a
group of ladies whose chief task it was to architectural tone of St Petersburg.
tickle her feet. Her restless nature meant During the brief reigns of Peter’s wife
that her courtiers had to endure endless Catherine I (1725–27) and his grandson
hunts and skating parties, and were re- Peter II (1727–30), the court abandoned
quired to keep her company at all hours. this frontier city for the more com-
Her riotous cross-dressing masquerades
were notorious, as was her vast wardrobe, fortable life in Moscow. But when the
allegedly containing over 15,000 dresses. throne passed to Anna, daughter of
Peter’s co-tsar Ivan, she decided to cre-
ate a recognizably European court in
St Petersburg. Anna was 37 at the time,
and had spent most of her life in
Germany. This was obvious in her
choice of ministers and favourites, of
whom many were German. Fashion
and style, however, were imported
from France and opera from Italy.
Though she herself was serious, plain
Tsarina Elizabeth going for a stroll at Tsarskoe
and somewhat cruel, Anna did much
Selo, surrounded by eager courtiers to put the court on a footing with the
most frivolous in Europe, as well as
encouraging a flowering of civilization.
city on this fetid bogland, where day- Tsarina Elizabeth, daughter of Peter
light and building materials were in the Great, was the ideal successor to
short supply and disastrous floodings this twittering court. Elizabeth was
regular. More than 40,000 attractive, energetic and
Swedish prisoners-of-war cheerful, a combination
and peasants laboured that endeared her to al-
and perished here, their most everyone, especially
bones contributing to the the Guards who helped
city’s foundations. secure her place on the
Whether or not it was throne. She left the affairs
always Peter’s intention to of state to a series of well
make this his new capital, chosen advisors. The only
it only became possible element of seriousness lay
after his decisive victory in Elizabeth’s perhaps
at Poltava in 1709 put an surprising piety, which
end to the Swedish threat. Elizabeth (1741–61)
at times led her to retire
St Petersburg was named temporarily into a con-
capital of R Russia in 1712 and, by Peter’s vent. Her chief legacy is the splendid
death in 1725, there were 40,000 in- Baroque architecture she commission-
habitants in the city and many more in ed, mainly designed by her favourite
the surrounding labour encampments. architect Rastrelli (see p93).
1721 Peace of Nystad ends war with Sweden 1738 Russia’s 1745 Tsarevich 1757
first ballet school Peter marries the St Petersburg
1733 Cathedral of SS Peter and Paul is founded in St future Catherine Academy of
is finished after 12 years’ work Petersburg the Great Arts is founded
1720 1730 1740 1750
1717 Peter travels to 1730–40 1741 Anna’s successor Ivan VI is 1754

Holland and France Reign of deposed; Elizabeth takes power, Rastrelli’s
Anna supported by Guards’ officers Winter
1725 Catherine I is Palace is
empress after death 1727–30 Reign Anna Ivanovna, begun
of Peter the Great of Peter II daughter of Ivan V
A Window on the West

Determined to drag his country out of the medieval
period, and inspired by the few westerners he met in
Moscow, Peter the Great was the first tsar to travel to
Europe. He returned with many ideas for reforms and d
architectural novelties which he put into practice in his
new city. In 1710, when the Swedish threat was over,
the reluctant imperial family andgovernment were
moved to this chilly, damp outland. But Peter was adaa-
mant and soon a rational street plan, stone buildings EXTENT OF THE CITY
and academies made St Petersburg a thriving capital 1712 Today
in which fashions and discoveries from Europe were
tried out before filtering through to therest of Russia.
PLAN OF THE NEW CITY
This map of 1712 shows Peter’s original
plan for his capital, with Vasilevskiy Island
as centre. This was abandoned due to the
hazards of crossing the Neva, and the city
spread out around the Admiralty instead.
The Carpenter Tsar

During his 1697–8 tour of Europe, Peter
(to the left in this picture) spent months
at the Deptford Docks, labouring with his
men to learn the basics of ship building.
Based on Amsterdam, the original city grid

was meant to follow a strict network of
canals but this had to change (see p57).
Menshikov
palace
THE STRELTSY REBELLION

As a result of a malicious rumour
that Peter’s relatives planned the
murder of his half- f brother Ivan, in
1682 the Streltsy Guard regiments
invaded the Kremlin. A horrifying
massacre took place in front of
the 10-year old Peter who saw his
adviser and members of his family
murdered. This traumatic event is
probably what caused Peter’s facial
New Fashions tic and certainly his wish to build
Peter’s desire to westernize another capital city. In 1698 he took
Russia led to a rule forcing a terrible revengeby torturing over Brutal murders in
his courtiers to have their a thousand Streltsy Guards to death. the Kremlin, 1682
bushy beards shaved off.
WHERE TO SEE PETER THE

GREAT’S CITY
Some of the buildings from the early
St Petersburg still exist in the city centre,
including the rustic Peter the Great’s
Cabin (p73), the Summer Palace (p95)
and the Baroque Menshikov Palace
(
(p62) . Much of Peter and Paul Fortress
(pp66–7) also dates from this time. It
is also well worth visiting Monplaisir,
Peter’s first home at Peterhoff (p150).
The Battle of Poltava

e struggle with Sweden for control over
c led to the Great Northern War.
fter the embarassing defeat at
Great’s army reforms bore
a decisive battle over
d thereby Russia’s
opean power.
ter
Peter the Great’s workshop, the Summer Palace
ul
Wine Goblet
t was here
The tsar, who
e 1880s.
could hold his
drink, enjoyed
mmer pressing alcohol
e on his guests until
they passed out. This
elegant crystal goblet
belonged to his close
friend Alexander
Menshikov and is
engraved with
his coat of arms.
Marshy soil and a lack of local
stone made construction difficult.
Thousands of labourers died
during the first stages.
Catherine I
After an unsuccess-
ful first marriage,
Peter was drawn
to a Lithuanian
girl who had
followed the army
back from the wars
in 1704. Her healthy
good looks were brought to
the tsar’s attention by Alexander
Menshikovv (see p62). Although
Mice Bury the Cat only two daughters survived,
Coloured woodcuts, lubki, served as political their marriage was happy and
cartoons in Peter’s day. The tsar was always Catherine succeeded Peter as the
portrayed as a cat on account of his moustache. first woman on Russia’sthrone.
CATHERINE THE GREAT However, the necessities of war sub-

Catherine, a German princess, was sumed everything, and no inroads were
chosen by Elizabeth as wife for her made against the Russian autocracy
successor, the petty-minded Peter III. during Alexander I’s reign.
When Peter ascended the throne in Determined to harness the wave of
1761 Catherine Russian patriotism, Alexander joined
had resided in Britain and marched against Napoleon
Russia for 18 in Austria in 1805. After the crushing
years and was defeat at the battle of Austerlitz, how-
fully fluent in ever, the inexperienced tsar retreated,
Russian. She his army having lost 11,000 men.
had made it her At the Peace of Tilsit, signed in 1807,
duty to steep Napoleon divided Europe into French
herself in the and Russian spheres, lulling Alexander
Russian culture
R into a false sense of security. In 1812
which she later the French emperor invaded Russia,
came to adore. but was defeated by its size and cli-
Six months into mate. The Russian army followed his
Catherine the Great in 1762
Peter’s reign, forces to Paris, taking part in the allied
Catherine and campaign which led Napoleon to abdi-
her allies in the Imperial Guard deposed cate in 1814. In celebration, Alexander
the tsar. He was assassinated within commissioned a series of imposing
days and she was crowned Catherine II. public edifices in a fitting Empire style.
By Catherine’s death at the age of 67.
her reputation as an enlightened leader
(see p24) had been overshadowed by
her illiberal reaction to the news of the
French Revolution in 1789 and by
scandalous rumours concerning her
later love-affairs. However, she left a
country vastly enlarged after successful
campaigns against Turkey and Poland.
WAR AND PEACE

During the Napoleonic Wars, under
Catherine’s grandson Alexander I,
Russia finally took her place alongside
the other great European powers.
Despite his part in the murder of his
father Paul, much was expected of the
handsome new tsar who was infected
by the ideals of enlightened govern-
ment. Russia was by now desperately
in need of reform. Of particular con- Murder of Paul I, 1801. Despite all his precautions,
cern was the plight of the peasantry, Catherine’s unstable, paranoid son was murdered
who were tied to the land in serfdom. in a coup in his own fortified palace (see p101)
TIMELINE
1762 Death of Elizabeth. Peter III 1783 1787–92 1801 Paul I 1805–1807
becomes emperor but is murdered Annexation 2nd Russo- murdered. War with France
after six months. His wife takes of the Turkish Alexander I ends with
the throne as Catherine II Crimea War becomes tsar Treaty of Tilsit
T
1760 1780 1800
1773–5 1782 1796 Death of 1812 Napoleon

1767 Pugachev Falconet’s Catherine II; invades Russia
Catherine II Rebellion statue, the Paul I accedes
publishes Bronze 1816 Alexander I
her Bolshoy 1768–74 1st Horseman, Alexander I clamps down on
Nakaz Russo-Turkish War is completed (1801–25) reforms
A CITY OF RICH AND POOR

For much of the 19th century, a walk
along Nevskiy prospekt offered a
microcosm of an increasingly divided
society. Striding past drunks, beggars
and prostitutes, the city’s courtiers,
cocky young officers and leading citi-
zens headed for shops selling imported
fashionable accessories, or to the dis-
tinguished delicatessen Y Yeliseev’s to
Decembrist rebels defeated by tsarist troops, 1825
buy caviar and champagne. They often
lived above their means, mortgaging
THE DECEMBRIST REBELLION their serfs and lands to keep up with
Officers of the Russian army who had the astronomical costs of their luxuri-
witnessed the freedoms of democratic ous lives. This was also a city in which
Europe were frustrated by Alexander’s the salary of a low ranking government
failure to consider constitutional reform. clerk was never sufficient to feed a fam-
When his stern brother Nicholas was ily. In the countryside, tension was
declared tsar in 1825, these liberals ral- growing among the serfs tied to the
lied their soldiers to support the older large estates of the aristocracy. With
brother Constantine, who had given up such blatant inequality, growing pres-
his rights to the throne, in the hope that sure for political reform was inevitable.
he would be more open-minded. They After the unrelenting autocracy of
made a stand on 14th December on Nicholas I, the “Iron Tsar”, liberals wel-
what is now Decembrists’ Square (see comed the reign of his fair-minded son
p78). Troops loyal to the tsar were Alexander II. In 1861, the tsar passed
instructed to fire on the rebels, killing the Edict of Emancipation, abolishing
hundreds before the leaders surren- serfdom, but requiring peasants to buy
dered. The new tsar, Nicholas I, treated their land at far from advantageous
them with the severity which was to terms. Thus industrialization finally
become the hallmark of his reign. Five took off as peasants flocked to the big
leading figures were hanged, and over cities to work in factories, only to be
a hundred exiled to Siberia. met by even worse living conditions.
THE NAPOLEONIC INVASION

Napoleon’s Grand Army of 600,000 men
reached Moscow in September 1812, after
the victory at Borodino, but was defeated
by the tactics of non-engagement devised
by the great Russian hero General Kutuzov.
Finding himself in a city abandoned by its
rulers and set on fire by its people, and
with the Russian winter ahead, Napoleon
was forced into a retreat over the frozen
countryside. He eventually reached the
border, with only 30,000 men left alive. French army retreating from Moscow 1812
1822 Abolition 1833 Pushkin 1855 Death of Nicholas I; Leo 1865–9

of Masonic and publishes Alexander II succeeds him Tolstoy Tolstoy
secret societies The Bronze writes War
Horseman 1853–6 Crimean War and Peace
1820 1840 1860
1825 The Decembrist 1861 Emancipation

Rebellion. Nicholas I of serfs
becomes tsar
1851 The “Nicholas 1864 Reforms in local
1818 Construction of St Railway” opens between government, law
Isaac’s Cathedral starts Moscow and St Petersburg and education
The Enlightened Empress

Born a minor German princess, Catherine II was a
learned and energetic woman. She recognized the
importance of the great Enlightenment philosophers
Voltaire and Diderot, with whom she corresponded.
She bought impressive collections of European art
for the Hermitage (see pp84–93), libraries for Russia’ss
scholars and talked much about reducing the burden n
on Russia’s serfs. However, a peasant uprising in the
1770s and news of the French Revolution in 1789 put EXTENT OF THE CITY
paid to her liberal notions and, when she died, the 1790 Today
majority of Russians were just as badly off as before.
The Temple alludes to

Catherine’s passion for
Neo-Classical
architecture.
The medal is
presented to
Count Orlov
for his
victory over
the Turks
at Chesma
in 1770.
Royal Guards Swear Allegiance

On 28 June 1762, Catherine usurped the throne
of her unpopular husband Peter III in a palace
coup. The guards regiments flocked to support
her and the tsar was assassinated on 6 July.
CATHERINE THE GREAT

Catherine II “the Great” (1762–96) pursued an
expansionist foreign policy. Russia’s first naval
victory, leading to the annexation of the Crimea,
is commemorated allegorically on this fabric.
Count Alexey Orlov, brother

of Catherine’s one-time lover
Grigoriy, played an important role
in her takeover of the throne.
Pretender Pugachev
The greatest threat to
Catherine’s reign was
caused by the Cossack
Catherine’s Instructions Pugachev who claimed
In 1767 the 36-year-old to be Peter III. He was
Catherine published her arrested, but escaped
22-chapter Great Instruction to lead a widespread
(Bolshoy Nakaz). The book peasant uprising which
is a collection of ideas on broke out in 1773 and
which a reform of Russia’s only ended with his
legal system was to be based. execution in 1775.
WHERE TO SEE THE NEO-

CLASSICAL CITY
Catherine had the Marble Palace
(see p94) and the Tauride
Palace (p128) erected for two
of her lovers, and added the
Small and Large Hermitage and
the theatre (p84) to the Winter
The New Academy of Sciences Palace. Her architect Cameron
Catherine, who founded over 25 major academic designed the Cameron Gallery
institutions in Russia, also commissioned new build- and the Agate Pavilion at
ings for those already existing. Quarenghi built the Tsarskoe Selo (p150) and
Pavlovsk Palace (pp158–61).
Neo-Classical Academy of Sciences in 1783–5.
Catherine is portrayed as Pallas

Athena, goddess of wisdom and
warfare, with her attributes of a
shield and helmet.
Grecian Hall at Pavlovsk, created by

Charles Cameron in 1782–6
Empire-Style Vase (1790)

Porcelain was much prized at
court. In 1744 the first Russian
producer, the Imperial Porcelain
Factory, opened in St Petersburg.
The fabric, used

for a screen, was
made by the
Pernons factory,
Lyons, in 1770.
Mikhail Lomonosov
A philosopher, historian,
linguist and scientist,
Lomonosov (1711–65) Grigoriy Potemkin (1739–91)
personified the intel- Of all her lovers, Catherine respected
lectual enlightenment and admired Prince Potemkin
of 18th-century Russia the most. He was a successful
(see p61). This sculpture of general and an influential
him as a boy by the seashore counsellor. They remained
refers to his fisherman origins. friends until his death.
26
of the 1890s. The unsuc-

cessful war with Japan
(1904–5) was followed by
“Bloody Sunday”. On 9th
January 1905 a peaceful
demonstration carried a
petition to the tsar only to
be met by bullets. News
of the massacre spread
like wildfire and the 1905
Revolution broke out with
strikes all over Russia.
R T
To
avert further disaster,
Alexander II was murdered by a revolutionary group in 1881. Tragically,
Nicholas II promised basic
he is said to have had the plans for a Russian parliament in his pocket civil rights and an elected
Duma (parliament) with
THE DEATH OF TSARIST RUSSIA the right to veto legislation. However,
Pressure for reform had built up such a the tsar simply dissolved the parliament
head of steam that in 1881, when still no whenever it displeased him. This high-
radical changes had taken place, a revo- handed behaviour, along with the royal
lutionary group murdered Alexander II. family’s unpopular intimate friendship
The reign of Alexander III was one of with Rasputin (see p121), further dam-
rabid reaction. The press was under aged the Romanovs’ reputation.
strict censorship and the secret police The outbreak of World War I
more active than ever. But workers brought a surge of patriot-
began to get organized and opposition ism which the tsar
was growing. Nicholas II took over a sought to ride. But,
country on the verge of breakdown, by late 1916, Russia
in spite of the rapid industrialization had lost three and
a half million
WORLD OF ART MOVEMENT men, morale at
The oppressive political the front was low
climate at the turn of the and food supplies Red Army
century did not prevent art at home scarce. badge
from flourishing. A small
group of St Petersburg artists, REVOLUTION AND CIVIL WAR
including Bakst and Benois,
grew into an influential In February 1917 strikes broke
creative movement under the out in the capital, now renamed
inspired leadership of Sergey Petrograd. The tsar was forced to
Diaghilev. Western art was abdicate, his family put under
introduced in their stylish arrest and a Provisional Govern-
World of Artt magazine, while
their stage designs and ment set up. But revolutionaries
costumes for the Ballets returning from exile organized
Costume design by
Russes (see p118) brought themselves and, in October, an
Leon Bakst, 1911
Russian culture to the west. armed revolution overthrew the
government (see pp28–9).
TIMELINE
1881 Alexander II is 1902 Lenin publishes What is to be Done? The Romanov
assassinated by the family in
“People’s Will” group. 1898 Social-Democratic 1913 1913 300th
Alexander III becomes tsar. Workers’ party is founded. anniversary of
Russian museum opens Romanov rule
1880 1900
1881–2 Anti- 1903 Pro-violence 1905 The 1905 Revolution is

semitic pogroms Bolsheviks (under Lenin) followed by the inauguration
1894 Alexander III secede from Social- of the first Duma in 1906
1887 Lenin’s brother dies, Nicholas II Democratic Workers’ party
is hanged for attempt accedes 1914 Outbreak of WWI; St Peters-
on the tsar’s life 1904–5 Russo-Japanese
- War burg changes name to Petrograd
The leading Bolshevik party proved to

be as careless of democracy as the tsar
but, in March 1918, they kept their
promise to take Russia out of the war.
The army was desperately needed at
home to fight the developing civil war.
The Bolsheviks (Reds) found them-
selves threatened by a diverse coalition
of anti-revolutionary groups which
came to be known as the “Whites”, ini-
tially supported by foreign intervention.
It was the threat of the Whites rallying
opposition around the royal family that
led to their execution in July 1918. But
the Whites were a disparate force and, The imperial palaces around St Petersburg were
by November 1920, the last troops had totally destroyed by the Germans in World War II.
abandoned the struggle, leaving a This photo shows Pavlovsk (see pp156–9) in 1944
devastated Soviet Russia to face two
years of appalling famine. To manage, ated on the secret orders of Stalin (see
Lenin had to revise his aggressive “War p72). Blamed on an anti-Stalinist cell,
Communism” nationalization project. the assasination was used as the cata-
His slightly milder New Economic lyst for five years of purges through-
Policy allowed for private enterprise. out the country. By the time they were
over, some 15 million people had been
THE STALIN YEARS arrested, many sent to the Gulag (labour
In the five years after Lenin’s death in camps) and over a million executed.
1924, Joseph Stalin used his position Stalin’s purge of the Red Army boded
as General Secretary of the Communist badly for World War II, for he had got
Party to eliminate all rivals. He then rid of three quarters of his officers.
established his long dictatorship. When the Germans invaded Russia in
The terror began in earnest with the 1941 they cut off Leningrad in less than
collectivization of three months, sub-
agriculture which jecting the city to a
forced the peasants 900-day siege (see
to give up all live- p131) which left
stock, machinery and more than two mil-
land to collective lion people dead,
farms. During this half of them civil-
time, and in the ians. Leningrad came
ensuing famine of Joseph Stalin on a propaganda poster from 1933 to be known as a
1931–2, up to 10 mil- “Hero City”.
lion people are thought to have died. The Germans were eventually defeated,
A first major purge of intellectuals took but the Russian people, who lost 20
place in urban areas in 1928–9. Then, million souls to the war, were subjected
in December 1934, Sergey Kirov, the to a renewed terror by Stalin, which
party leader in Leningrad, was assassin- lasted until his death in March 1953.
1917 The Russian Revolution (see p29) 1929 Collec- 1934 Leningrad 1939 Nazi-Soviet pact
tivization of Party Secretary 1947 The term
1918 Civil War 1924 Lenin dies; private land Kirov is killed; 1941 Nazis attack “Cold War” is
starts. Capital Petrograd is Stalin’s purges Russia; Siege of coined
moves to Moscow named Leningrad intensify Leningrad starts
1920 1940
1921 Lenin 1925 T

Trotsky is 1932 Socialist 1944 The Siege ends
bans all expelled from Realism is the only
opposition the Politburo officially approved 1942 First performance of
after the style in art Shostakovich’s Seventh Symphony
Kronstadt 1922 Stalin becomes General in besieged Leningrad
mutiny Secretary of the Party Sergey Kirov
The Russian Revolution

St Petersburg is known as the cradle of the Russian
Revolution, a central event in the history of the 20th
century. After the 1917 February Revolution which led
to the abdication of Tsar Nicholas II, the Provisional
Government declared a political amnesty. Exiled revo-
lutionaries such as Lenin and Trotsky flooded into
the city. By setting up a network of Workers’ and
Soldiers’ Soviets, representative councils elected by the
people, they established an alternative government. In EXTENT OF THE CITY
October, when soldiers had deserted from the front in 1917 Today
droves, the revolutionary leaders decided on an armed
uprising which brought the Communists to power.
Looting was tempting
for the mob of sailors
The Ex-Tsar and soldiers, especially
Nicholas II, seen Soldier of the
in the palace’s well-
Red Guard stocked wine cellars.
here clearing
snow at Tsarskoe
Selo during his
house arrest in
March 1917, was
later taken with
his family to
Yekaterinburg
where they were
murdered.
STORMING THE WINTER PALACE

Late on the evening of 25 October 1917
the battleship Aurora (see p73) fired some
blank shots at the Winter Palace. The Red
Guard, trained by Trotsky at the Smolnyy
Institute, stormed the palace. Their aim was
the arrest of the Provisional Government,
unsuccessfully defended by 300 Cossacks.
The Cossacks,
who defended
the palace with
some cadets
and members
of the Women’s
Battalion, were
too few to offer
any serious
resistance.
Revolutionary Plate
Various ceramics
with revolutionary
themes, mixed
Lenin, Leader of the People with touches of
A charismatic speaker, as shown Russian folklore,
in this painting by Victor Ivanov, were produced to
Lenin returned from exile in April celebrate every
to lead the Revolution. By 1918, occasion, in this
his Bolshevik faction had shown case the Third
their determination to rule. International.
Propaganda
One hallmark of the
Soviet regime was its
propaganda. Artists
were employed to de-
sign posters spreading
its message through
striking graphics.
War Communism
during the Civil War
(1918–20) was
Leon Trotsky encouraged by posters
The intellectual Trotsky played such as this one,
a leading military role in the extolling the “Workers’
Revolution. In 1927, during and Peasants’
the power struggle after Lenin’s Defence”.
death, he was exiled by Stalin.
In 1940 he was murdered in
Mexico by a Stalinist agent. Avant Garde Art
Even before 1917,
Russia’s artists had
been in a state of
revolution, producing
the world’s first truly
abstract paintings. A
great example of this
new movement is
Supremus No. 56,
painted in 1916 by
Kazimir Malevich.
Ministers of the Provisional Government
tried to keep order but were arrested.
New Values
Traditions were
radically altered by
the Revolution;
instead of church
weddings, couples
exchanged vows
under the red flag.
Loudly trumpeted
sexual equality
meant that women
had to work twice
as hard – at home
and in the factories.
TIMELINE
1917 The March The tsar is October Bolsheviks storm March Bolsheviks sign Brest-Litovsk
February persuaded to abdicate. Winter Palace after signal peace treaty with Germany. Capital
Revolution Provisional Government from Aurora and expel is moved to Moscow
is led by Prince Lvov Provisional Government
1917 1918
July Kerensky becomes 1918 January July Start of Civil War.

Prime Minister of Trotsk y becomes Tsar and family are
Provisional Government Commissar of War murdered in prison
at Yekaterinburg
December Lenin forms the
Cruiser Aurora CHEKA (secret police)
Khrushchev’s decision to put nuclear

missiles on Cuba brought the world to
the brink of nuclear war.
When Leonid Brezhnev took over in
1964, the intellectual climate froze
once more and the persecution of
political dissidents was stepped up.
The first ten years of his regime were
a time of relative plenty. But beneath
the surface a vast black market and net-
work of corruption was growing. The
The Washington Dove of Peace, a Russian
party apparatchiks, who benefited
caricature (1953) from the days of the Cold War most from the corruption, had no inter-
est in rocking the boat. When Brezhnev
THAW AND STAGNATION died in 1982, the politburo was deter-
Three years after Stalin’s death his suc- mined to prevent the accession of a
cessor Nikita Khrushchev denounced younger generation. He was followed
Stalin’s crimes at the Twentieth Party by 68-year-old Yuriy Andropov and,
Congress and the period known as when he died, 72-year-old Chernenko.
“The Thaw” began. Political prisoners
were released, and Solzhenitsyn’s One GLASNOST AND PERESTROIKA
Day In the Life of Ivan Denisovich, When 53-year-old Mikhail Gorbachev
about life in the Gulag, was published. announced his policies of glasnost
In foreign affairs, things were not so (openness) and perestroika (restruc-
liberal. Soviet tanks invaded Hungary turing), when he took over in 1985, he
in 1956 to prevent the country seced- had no idea what
ing from the Warsaw Pact and, in 1962, would follow. By the
end of 1991 the
FIRST IN SPACE Soviet Union
It was und er Krushchev that the Soviet
and its empire
Union achieved her greatest coup were no more.
against the West, launching the first For the first
Sputnik into space in 1957. That same time since
year the dog Laika was the first living 1917 the elec-
creature in space, aboard Sputnik II. tions to the
She never came down again, but
four years later Yuriy Gagarin Congress of
made spectacular history as the first P e o p l e ’ s Mikhail Gorbachev
man in space, returning to a hero’s Deputies in and George Bush
welcome. The Soviets lost the race 1989 contained
to put a man on the moon, but an element of genuine choice,
their space programme worked as
powerful propaganda, backing with rebels such as Boris
up the claims of politicians that Yeltsin and human rights cam-
Russia would soon catch up paigner Andrey Sakharov
Spuknik II and the with and over-take the winning seats. In 1991, local
space dog Laika, 1957 prosperity of the West.
elections brought nationalist
candidates to power in the
TIMELINE
1950–1954 1962 Cuban 1982 Death of Brezhnev;
Korean War 1961 Stalin’s body removed missile crisis replaced by Andropov
from its place alongside 1964 Brezhnev
Lenin in Red Square. Yuriy becomes General 1970 Solzhenitsyn wins
Gagarin is first man in space Secretary Nobel Prize for Literature
1950 1960 1970 1980
1953 Stalin 1957 Sputnik I 1968 Soviet
dies is launched troops enter 1969 Strategic Arms 1979 USSR
Czechoslovakia Limitation Talks invades
1955 Krushchev 1956 Stalin denounced by to suppress (SALT) with USA Afghanistan
comes to power. Krushchev at 20th Party “Prague Spring”
Warsaw Pact is Congress. Hungarian Leonid Brezhnev
established uprising is crushed (1906–82)
others cry out for a

return to Commun-
ism and the albeit
limited social protec-
tion it offered.
The social prob-
lems are still being
resolved, and were
not helped by a
financial crisis in
August 1998. Major
companies have,
however, continued
to invest, and by
Demonstrations on Palace Square during the 1991 coup early 1999 relative
stability had been
republics, and democrats in the major achieved. The elections of December
Russian local councils. Russia and the 1999 dramatically reduced the power
Baltic Republics seceded from the of the Communists, bringing in young
Soviet Union, while the people liberal reformers and confirm-
of Leningrad, always in the van- ing optimism about Russia’s
guard of progressive movement future. Meanwhile, the reli-
and now led by the reformist gious revival continues, and
lecturer in law, Anatoly churches of all denominations
Sobchak, voted to restore the have been restored to their
c i t y ’ s o r i g i n a l n a m e , S t The new Russian original purpose, having been
Petersburg. State Emblem used as warehouses in the
With his great victory in the Soviet era.
election for President of the Russian In March 2000, Vladimir Putin was
Republic, Yeltsin was able to deal the elected President of the Russian
death blow to the Soviet Union. It Federation. Putin is a graduate of the
came after the military coup against St Petersburg State University and was
Gorbachev in August 1991, when Vice-Governor of the city.
Yeltsin’s stand against tanks in
Moscow made him a hero. In St Peters-
burg no tanks were on the street, but
nonetheless Sobchak rallied support-
ers of democracy. By the end of the
year, the Soviet Union no longer existed.
ST PETERSBURG TODAY
The economic reforms which Russia
has undergone since 1991 have
widened the gap between rich and
poor and, while some revel in the new A church wedding, popular again since religion
opportunities for work and travel, has gained new importance among the young
Boris Yeltsin
1991 Yeltsin becomes with Russian
President of Russia. flag in 1991 2004 Beslan Siege; 300
1989 USSR leaves Dissolution of the USSR people killed in a Beslan
Afganistan on 25 December school by Chechen rebels
1990 2000 2010
1984 Andropov is
replaced by Chernenko 1998 Nicholas II is 2000 Putin becomes
reburied with his family in President of Russia
SS Peter and Paul Cathedral
1990 Gorbachev is elected on 17 July
President of the USSR and
awarded the Nobel Peace Prize Vladimir Putin
I N T R O D U C I N G S T P E T E R S B U R G 33
ST PETERSBURG AT A GLANCE
A city built on water, St Petersburg
offers beautiful scenery and a
wide range of sights. The Peter
and Paul Fortress (see pp66–7), the
city’s first building, contrasts with
memorabilia of the Revolution in the
Kshesinskaya Mansion (see p72).
To help you make the most of your
stay, the following 12 pages are a time-
saving guide to the best museums and
Baroque monasteries and Neo-Classical palaces and the most interesting of the
palaces. The city’s short but stormy many bridges and waterways. The cul-
history is reflected in many of its tural figures that made St Petersburg
museums, which display everything a city of importance are also featured.
from Catherine the Great’s fine art Below is a selection of sights that
collection in the Her mitage to should not be missed by any visitor.
ST PETERSBURG’S TOP TEN ATTRACTIONS
Nevskiy Prospekt
See pp46–9
Russian Museum Mariinskiy Theatre

See pp104–7 See p119
Stieglitz Museum
See p127
The Hermitage
See pp84–93
Church on
Spilled Blood
See p100
Cathedral of Our Lady of Kazan

See p111
Cathedral of SS
St Isaac’s Cathedral Peter and Paul Alexander Nevsky Monastery
See pp80–81 See p68 See pp130–31
The Neo-Classical Kazan Cathedral with its impressive semi-circle of granite columns
St Petersburg’s Best: Bridges and Waterways

Like its waterbound sisters, Amster-
dam and Venice, St Petersburg is built
around a network of canals and rivers
which are still the life-blood of the
city. They contribute to its unique
atmosphere by creating eerie mists
which rise from the ice-laden waters
in winter and, in summer, a glittering
mirror of façades during the glowing
sunsets and bright White Nights. W
Bridges, necessary for communica- L
tion between the islands, were also
an excellent means to adorn the city
with decorative sculptures, elaborate
lampposts and wrought-iron work
A walk or a boat trip (see pp13
pp226–7) is the best way to enjo
Lieutenant Shm
Rebuilt in 1936–8
still retains its ori
cast-iron seahorse
designed by Bryul
Lion Bridge
One of the earliest of its kind, this
pedestrian suspension bridge
dates from 1825–6. Its cables are
anchored inside four cast-iron
lions, by sculptor Pavel Sokolov.
Egyptian Bridge
This bridge spanning
the Fontanka was
decorated in the
Egyptian style fashion-
able at the time of its
construction, in 1826. 0 yards 500
35
Trinity Bridge
The ten-arched Trinity Bridge (1897–1903)
is famous for its Style-Moderne lampposts
and railing decorations, the work of the
skilful French engineers Vincent Chabrol
and René Patouillard.
Swan Canal
This tree-lined canal (1711–19)
leading out to the Neva is named
after the swans which were once
drawn to its peaceful waters.
Bridge Passage
Cleverly designed
to span the conflu-
ence of the Moyka
and the Griboedov,
the Theatre and
Small Stable bridges
were constructed
by Traitteur and
Adam in 1829–31.
hkov Bridge
span bridge,
ying Nevskiy
kt across the
a, was built
41. At each
er are Pyotr
’s impressive
ptures of men
ng wild horses.
monosov
Bridge
The distinctive
domed granite
towers, built in
1785–7, originally
contained the Bank Bridge
bridge’s opening Dating from the same time as the Lion
mechanism. The Bridge, and designed by the same team,
bridge was rebuilt this bridge is adorned by four magnificent
in 1912, but the cast-iron griffons. Its name derives from
towers were kept. the nearby former Assignment Bank.
Exploring St Petersburg’s Bridges and Waterways

A boat trip on St Petersburg’s canals and waterways is FINDING THE BRIDGES
one of the highlights of any visit to the city. From the
Map references refer to the
Anichkov Bridge the river boats (see pp 217–8) loop Street Finder on pp238–45.
along the Neva, Fontanka and Moyka rivers, taking in Alexander Nevsky Bridge 8 F3
many impressive bridges and landmarks. Alternatively, Anichkov Bridge 7 A2
you can choose your own route to explore the city’s Bank Bridge 6 E2
rich architectural heritage by taking a water taxi (see Egyptian Bridge 5 B5
p219). A pleasant wander along the embankments of Lantern Bridge 5 C2
the Griboedov Canal leads past imposing 19th-century Lieutenant Shmidt Bridge 5 B1
apartment houses and fancifully decorated bridges. In Lion Bridge 5 C3
Liteynyy Bridge 3 A3
the winter months, one can walk on the frozen Neva. Lomonosov Bridge 6 F3
Palace Bridge 1 C5
RIVERS AND CANALS Peter the Great Bridge 4 F5
Red Bridge 6 D2
Inspired by Amsterdam, Peter St Panteleymon’s Bridge 2 F5
the Great kept the many Singer’s Bridge 2 E5
streams of the delta as canals, Small Stable Bridge 2 F5
which also helped to drain Theatre Bridge 2 F5
the swampy ground. As the Trinity Bridge 2 E4
city grew new ones were dug
to improve the canal network.
The Moyka originally flowed waterway is the Winter Canal,
from a swamp near the Field just to the east of the Winter
of Mars (see p94). In the 19th Palace. Nearby is the delightful
century the aristocracy lined Swan Canal which runs along
its quays with impressive Neo- the Summer Garden (p95).
Classical mansions which are Steady industrial growth in
still their main attraction. Canal the 19th century prompted the
boats and barges ply the 7-km construction of a new canal,
The ice-laden Neva river in front of (4-mile) long Fontanka, widest the Obvodnyy, in 1834, to
the Peter and Paul Fortress and busiest of the waterways, take the increasing number of
which was once the border of heavy cargo barges and supply
the city. These two rivers are water to the city outskirts.
THE NEVA AND ITS linked by the Kryukov Canal,
BRANCHES dug in the 18th century.
The Griboedov Canal, first NEVA BRIDGES
Greatest of St Petersburg’s known as the Catherine Canal
numerous waterways, the in honour of Catherine the The most central of the Neva
Neva flows from Lake Ladoga Great, was designed to move bridges is the Palace Bridge
in the east through the city to cargo from Sennaya Ploshchad. (Dvortsovyy most). The
the Gulf of Finland, a distance Today the atmosphere here present structure, built early
of only 74 km (46 miles) in is more tranquil. The stretch in the 20th century, replaced
total. Vasilevskiy Island, one of of water running south from a seasonal pontoon bridge
more than 100 islands in the the Lion Bridge is particularly which linked the mainland to
Neva Delta, divides the river picturesque. The narrowest Vasilevskiy Island. The other
into two separate branches,
Bolshaya (Great) Neva and
Malaya (Small) Neva.
Icebound for at least four
months of the year, the Neva
usually shows the first signs
of cracking in March. The
official Opening of Navigation
is announced by the port
authority in mid-April. Until
the Revolution the event was
marked with great ceremony.
The Commander of the Peter
and Paul Fortress (see pp66–7),
at the head of a naval flotilla,
would scoop some icy water
into a silver goblet which he
presented to the tsar in the
Winter Palace (see pp92–3). View of the Moyka and its south bank with a water taxi in foreground
S T P E T E R S B U R G A T A G L A N C E 37
Small Stable Bridge (Malo-

Konyushennyy most). The
latter is cunningly designed
to look like two bridges.
Among the more attractive
bridges is Georg von Traitteur’s
pedestrian Bank Bridge
(Bankovskiy most), crossing
the Griboedov. Its cables are
held up by two pairs of gold-
winged griffons. The Lion
Peter the Great Bridge, crossing the Neva near Smolnyy Institute Bridge (Lvinyy most), also by
Traitteur, uses a similar device;
bridge to this island, in this case the suspension
Lieutenant Shmidt Bridge DECORATIVE BRIDGES cables emerge from the open
(Most Leytenanta Shmidta, see jaws of four proud lions.
p63), is named after a naval In the beginning, wooden St Panteleymon’s Bridge
officer who led a rebellion of bridges spanned the canals (Panteleymonovskiy most, see
sailors of the Black Sea Fleet and rivers of St Petersburg. p99) spans the Fontanka near
in 1905. The Trinity Bridge They were usually known by the Summer Gardens. It was
(Troitskiy most, see p73) was their colour – red, blue, Russia’s first chain bridge
built in 1897–1903, in time for green, and so on. The (1823–4). The Empire-
the city’s bicentenary, by the Red Bridge (Krasnyy style decoration has
French Batignolles company. most) which carries survived and includes
At 582 m (1,910 ft), the Trinity Gorokhovaya ulitsa over gilded fasces and double-
Bridge was the Neva’s longest, the Moyka, has pre- headed eagles perched
until the construction of the served its original name. on laurel wreaths. Next to
Alexander Nevsky Bridge Built in 1808–14, this iron the Nevskiy prospekt, the
(Most Aleksandra Nevskovo) bridge is decorated with Anichkov Bridge (Anich-
in the 1960s, which is some picturesque lamps on kov most) is famous for its
900 m (2,950 ft). Between four granite obelisks. four vibrant bronze
these two is the Liteynyy Lamps are also a feature sculptures of wild horses
Bridge (Liteynyy most) built of the Lantern Bridge and their powerful tamers,
in 1874–9. In 1917, the city (Fonarnyy most) which all of them in different
authorities tried to prevent crosses the Moyka river poses. Further down the
rebel workers crossing the near to the Yusupov Fontanka, framed by a
Neva from the Vyborg Side by Palace (see p120). Here handsome Neo-Classical
raising the central bridge span. the gilded lampposts are square by Carlo Rossi, is
The tactic failed since the re- shaped to look like the Lomonosov Bridge
volutionaries decided to cross treble clefs. Singer’s (Most Lomonosova) with
on foot over the frozen ice. Bridge (Pevcheskiy its unusual stone turrets.
Near the Smolnyy Institute is most) at the other end Lamppost, St The Egyptian Bridge
the Peter the Great Bridge of the Moyka takes its Panteleymon’s (Egipetskiy most) spans
(Most PetraVelikovo), also name from the choir Bridge the Fontanka close to
known by its Soviet name of the nearby Glinka the Kryukov Canal. It
Bolsheokhtinskiy most. It has Capella. Its engineer, Yegor is ornamented with bronze
a central drawbridge and Adam, also designed the lace- sphinxes and bridgeheads
distinctive steel twin arches, like patterning of the railings. resembling the entrance to an
erected in 1909–11. At the junction where the Egyptian temple. Originally
From April to November Griboedov meets the Moyka constructed in 1826, the bridge
almost all Neva bridges are is an interesting ensemble, collapsed under the weight of
raised at night to give ships formed by the wide Theatre a passing cavalry squadron
access to the Volga (see p209). Bridge (Teatralnyy most) and but was rebuilt in 1955.
A CITY UNDER WATER

Peter the Great should have known it was a bad idea to
found a city here. The first flood, just three months after he
started the fortress in 1703, swept away his building mater-
ials. The water rises dangerously high on average once a
year, but four floods, in 1777, 1824, 1924 and 1955, wrought
massive damage. In 1824 the whole city went under water
and 462 buildings were totally destroyed. This inspired
Pushkin’s poem The Bronze Horseman (see p78). Markers
showing record waterheights can be found by the Winter
A 19th-century illustration of one of Canal and the Peter and Paul Fortress. In 1989 construction
the many floods in St Petersburg of a dam was begun to prevent future destruction.
St Petersburg’s Best: Palaces and Museums

St Petersburg boasts more than 90 museums, many of them
housed in palaces or other buildings of historical importance.
Some are well known throughout the world, such as the
Hermitage which began as Catherine the Great’s private colle
tion of European art. Others, including the Russian Museum
and the Summer Palace, highlight local art, history and cu
Some of the most evocative museums are those commem
the lives and work of famous artists, writers and music
This selection represents the most interesting in each
The Hermitage
Incorporating the breathtaking state
rooms of the Winter Palace, the world
famous Hermitage holds nearly thr
million exhibits which range from
Arts to archaeological finds.
Menshikov Palace
This grandiose Baroque palac
Vasilevskiy Island is testimony t
the power of Peter the Great’s frie
and advisor, Prince Menshikov.
Kshesinskaya Mansion
Built for a prima ballerina
the Mariinskiy Theatre,
this attractive Style-
ne mansion now
e Museum of
History
Summer Palace
Interiors and furniture,
such as Peter the Great’s
original four-poster bed,
give an idea of the tsar’s
relatively modest lifestyle.
tieglitz Museum
A rich collection
of applied art is
displayed in
Messmacher’s
magnificent
uilding which
as inspired by
palaces of
the Italian
enaissance.
y
he
r an
ection
ranging
val icons to
mporary pain-
s and sculptures.
This semi-abstract
work Blue Crest by
Vasily Kandinsky
dates from 1917.
Pushkin House-Museum
Period furnishings and
personal belongings such as
this inkstand recreate the 0 metres 500
atmosphere of Alexander
Pushkin’s last home. 0 yards 500
Exploring St Petersburg’s Palaces and Museums

The city’s palaces range from imperial excess to the
tasteful homes of the nobility, while art museums cover
the fine and applied arts and folk crafts. The history of St
Petersburg, from its foundation as Peter the Great’s
“window on the West” to its role as the “cradle of the
Revolution”, is covered by a variety of museums while
its culture is documented in the apartments of writers,
composers and artists. More specialist interests, from
railway engines and military paraphernalia to insects and
whales, also find reflection in the wealth of museums.
Summer Palace is nearby
9 and makes a pleasing
(see p95)
contrast. Peter’s friend and
counsellor, Prince Alexander
Menshikov, also built two Bedroom in the Chinese Palace
sumptuous residences, the (1760s), Oranienbaum
Menshikov Palace (see p62) on
Vasilevskiy Island, and his sum- Colombian emeralds and a
mer palace at Oranienbaum vast and dazzling array of Old
(see p146), Lomonosov. Master, Impressionist and Post-
Overlooking the Moyka Impressionist paintings, it is
river is the Yusupov Palace essential to be selective.
(see p120) which is famed as The Russian Museum (see
the murder scene of Rasputin, pp104–107) is a showcase for
the extraordinary peasant who Russian art, including the 20th-
exerted his malign influence century avant-garde and the
over the Russian court. folk crafts which influenced it.
Peter the Great’s Summer Palace For those in search of a Exhibitions from its holdings
overlooking the Fontanka tranquil setting, a pleasant day are also in the Mikhaylovskiy
can be spent exploring the Castle (see p101), Marble
Yelagin Palace (see p126) and Palace (see p94) and
PALACES the island of the same name. Stroganov Palace (see p112).
The Academy of Arts (see
The fabulous wealth of p63) exhibits work by past
imperial St Petersburg is ART MUSEUMS students as well as models of
reflected in the magnificence the city’s notable buildings.
of its palaces. No trip to the One of the world’s greatest There are fascinating displays
city is complete without a visit collections of Western art is of applied arts from around the
to at least one of the specta- housed in the Hermitage (see world in the Stieglitz Museum
cular out-of-f town imperial pp84–93) which owns an (see p127) which includes cera-
summer residences, Peterhof astounding 2.8 million pieces mics, wood carving, ironwork
(see pp148–51), Pavlovsk (see of art. With collections rang- and embroidery. Its interiors
pp158–61) or the Catherine ing from Egyptian mummies and the glass-roofed exhibition
Palace (see pp152–3) at to Scythian gold, Greek vases, hall are equally impressive.
Tsarskoe Selo. These palaces,
built and added to in the last
200 years of Romanov rule,
illustrate the extravagance of
the imperial court and the
wealth of the empire’s natural
resources. An abundance of
gold, lapis lazuli, malachite,
marble and other precious
minerals decorates many of
the rich palace interiors. The
palace parks and grounds are
landscaped and filled with
follies and monuments.
At the centre of the city, the
Winter Palace (see pp92–3) is
home to the Hermitage art
museum and epitomizes the
opulence of the court. Peter
the Great’s more intimate The Cyclistt (1913) by Natalya Goncharova, Russian Museum
HISTORY MUSEUMS
St Petersburg’s dramatic 300-

year history is proudly
recorded in a number of the
city’s museums. The Cabin of
Peter the Great (see p73) was
the earliest building to be
constructed in the city and it
offers an intriguing insight
into the surprisingly humble
lifestyle of this tsar.
A group of historic sights
lies within the Peter and Paul
Fortress. The Cathedral of SS
Peter and Paul (see p68) Office of Leningrad party secretary Sergey Kirov, Kirov Museum
houses the tombs of all but
two of Russia’s tsars since ments and explains the role
Peter the Great. The preserved SPECIAL INTEREST of the Sheremetev family as
cells of the grim Trubetskoy MUSEUMS leading music patrons in 19th-
Bastion (see p69) act as a century St Petersburg.
reminder of the hundreds of Remnants of Peter the Great’s A stunning array of beautiful
political prisoners to be con- legendary “cabinet of curio- stage costumes are on display
fined within the fortress walls. sities” can be found in the alongside photos, set designs
In the Commandant’s House city’s oldest museum, the and other theatrical ephemera
(see p69), the courthouse Kunstkammer (see p60). in the Theatre Museum which
where prisoners were once in- Housed under the same roof is is situated on Ostrovskiy
terrogated, an exhibition looks a Museum of Anthropology Square (see p110).
at medieval settlements in the and Ethnography, displaying a
area, while the Engineer’s large collection of artifacts
House (see p68) focuses on from all over the world. For HOUSE-MUSEUMS
daily life in St Petersburg natural history, the Zoological
before the Revolution. Museum (see p60) encom- A handful of evocative
A wealth of revolutionary passes most known life forms, museums commemorates
memorabilia, including Stalin including a unique collection some of the city’s most famous
era posters and a huge propa- of molluscs and blue corals. residents. The Pushkin House-
ganda stained-glass panel, can The Naval Museum (see Museum (see p113), the
be found in the Museum of p60) fascinates all ages with Nabokov Museum (see p122)
Russian Political History. The its model ships, small boats, and the Dostoevsky House-
museum is located within the figureheads and flags, while Museum (see p130) recapture
Kshesinskaya Mansion (see the Artillery Museum (see something of the life and cha-
p72) which, in 1917, housed p70) covers military hard- racter of their former residents.
the Bolshevik headquarters. ware, from pikes to ballistic The Anna Akhmatova
The Cruiser Aurora (see p73) missiles. Train enthusiasts will Museum in the former service
also played a part find plenty to enjoy in the quarters of the Sheremetev
in the Revolution, having Railway Museum (see p123), Palace (see p129) traces the
fired a warning shot before including an 1835 engine built dramatic life of the poetess
the storming of the Winter for the Tsarskoe Selo railway. who lived here for many years.
Palace in October 1917. The Museum of Musical Life For an insight into the life
For an impression of the in the Sheremetev Palace (see of a powerful Communist
prestigious pre-revolutionary p129) displays period instru- official of the 1930s, visit the
school where poet Alexander Kirov Museum
Pushkin was a student, some (see p72)
7 . The
of the class rooms of the museum is devoted
Lycée at Tsarskoe Selo (see to the popular
p155) have been restored to leader whose
their 19th-century appearance. assassination on
On the southern outskirts of Stalin’s orders
the city, in Victory Square (see initiated the Great
p131), the Monument to the Terror (see p27).
Heroic Defenders of Lenin- Outside the city in
grad poignantly evokes the Repino (see p146),
Siege of Leningrad (1941–4) the house of the
and acts as an important re- painter Ilya Repin
minder of the great hardships is set in beautiful
endured by St Petersburgers 18th-century violin and score in Museum of woodland on the
during World War II. Musical Life, Sheremetev Palace Gulf of Finland.
Celebrated St Petersburgers
As the residence of the Russian imperial family
and court from the early 18th century, St
Petersburg was the focus of patronage and an
almost boundless source of wealth. It was the
perfect seed bed for creativity and the flower-
ing of ideas. Institutions such as the Academy
of Arts, the University, the Kunstkammer and
the Imperial School of Ballet trained generations
of cultural figures and scientists to the highest
standards. So successful were they that, by the
dawn of the 20th century,
St Petersburg had become
one of the most important
cultural centres in Europe.
Nikolai Gogol
A merciless satirist of
St Petersburg society,
Gogol lived on Malaya
Morskaya ulitsa (see p82)
for three years.
Ilya Repin
This outstanding realist painter
is seen here teaching life draw-
ing at the Academy of Artss (see
p63) where he was a professor.
Pyotr Tchaikovsky
Tchaikovsky graduated
from the Conservatory
(see p120) in 1865
and went on to com-
pose his world-famous
- tour
operas and ballets. with the Ballets Russes.
Alexander Pushkin
The great poet, who sketched this
self-
f-portrait on a manuscript,
died in the flat which is now
a house-museum (see p113).
Sergey Diaghilev
Driving force behind the
ets Russes, Diaghilev also
oduced the influential
Art magazine in his
Liteynyy prospekt.
shown here with
Cocteau (left).
Anna Akhmatova
The poetess’ most famous poem, Requiem, m
is a powerful and moving indictment of
the Stalinist regime. Akhmatova, seen
here in a portrait by Nathan Altman,
lived in the service quarters of the
Sheremetev Palacee (see p129).
ostakovich
h’s Seventh
broadcast
dio from the
Philharmonia
gust 1942, while
under siege. Many
ts role in boosting the
of the besieged citizens.
vsky
ostoevsky
r many years
ong the slums of
Sennaya Ploshchad
(see p122) which pro-
vided the setting for his 0 metres 500
greatest work, Crime
and Punishment. 0 yards 500
Remarkable St Petersburgers
The streets of St Petersburg are redolent with literary
and artistic associations. Fascinating art collections, MUSICIANS
house-museums, theatres and concert halls evoke the
memory of famous St Petersburgers. The world of the The first important composer
to emerge from the nationalist
18th-century genius Lomonosov and 19th-century writers movement was Mikhail
Pushkin and Dostoevsky can be imagined. So too, can Glinka (1804–57), the earliest
the spirit of Russian ballet when dancers such as Anna composer of Russian opera.
Pavlova and Vaslaw Nijinsky thrilled the Mariinskiy In 1862, the Conservatoryy (see
audiences. During these early years of the 20th century, p120) was founded by Anton
writers, musicians, dancers and painters flocked to St Rubinstein (1829–94) and
Petersburg, bringing with them a wealth of creativity. this became the focus of
musical life in St Petersburg.
Poetry, which flourished in Nikolai Rimsky-Korsakov
the “Golden Age” of Pushkin, (1844–1908) taught here for
only regained its ascendancy 37 years and together with
over the novel in the “Silver composers such as Modest
Age” during the first decade Mussorgsky (1839–81), and
of the 20th century. Some of Aleksandr Borodin (1834–
the most exciting poets of the 87), he formed “the mighty
period, including Aleksandr handful”. They were a largely
Blok (1880–1921), Andrei self-taught group aiming to
Bely (1880–1934) and Anna develop a musical language
Akhmatova (1889–1966), based on Russian folk music
gathered at The Tower, a flat and Slav traditions. Many of
overlooking the Tauride them wrote operas premiered
Gardens (see p128). Bely later at the Mariinskiyy (see p119).
Symbolist “Silver Age” poet, wrote Petersburg, one of the One of the musical geniuses
Andrei Bely (1880–1934) earliest stream-of-conscious- of the 20th century was Igor
ness novels. Akhmatova is Stravinsky (1882–1971). He
honoured by a museum in spent much time abroad but,
WRITERS the Sheremetev Palace (see as works like The Rite of
p129) while one of her Springg testify, his cultural roots
Considered the father of protégés, Joseph Brodsky were firmly in his homeland.
modern Russian literature, (1940–96) went on to receive The city’s most important
Alexander Pushkin (1799– the Nobel Prize for literature concert venue is the Great Hall
1837) was simultaneously in 1987. Brodsky became the of the Philharmonia (see p202)
intoxicated by St Petersburg’s bête-noire of the Leningrad where Pyotr Tchaikovsky’s
beauty and sensitive to the literary establishment in the (1840–93) Sixth Symphony
underlying climate of political 1960s. The refusal of the was premiered in 1893 and
suspicion and intolerance authorities to publish his poe- Dmitriy Shostakovich’s
which constrained writers in try, which they condemned as (1906–75) Seventh Symphony,
the wake of the Decembrist decadent, finally forced him his most famous work, was
rebellion of 1825 (see p23). to emigrate in 1972. performed in 1942.
Nikolai Gogol (1809–52) res-
ponded to these constraints
by satirising the status quo.
In The Nose, he targeted the
city’s bureaucrats with their
inflated sense of self worth and
mind-numbing conformity.
Another aspect of the city
altogether is revealed by
Fyodor Dostoevsky (1821–
81). His novel Crime and
Punishment, one of more than
30 works set in the city, takes
place against a backdrop of
squalor in the notorious slums
of Sennaya Ploshchad (see
p122). The story of the mur-
der of an old moneylender
was based on a real crime
and the novel’s publication in
1866 was blamed for a series
of subsequent copy-cat killings. Portrait of composer Mikhail Glinka painted by Ilya Repin in 1887
directors, Grigoriy Kozintsev

DANCERS AND (1905–73) and Leonid
CHOREOGRAPHERS Trauberg (1902–90), first
joined forces in 1922 and be-
The skills of Russian dancers gan making short experimental
are legendary and the films. The pair then went on to
performances of the Mariinskiy direct The New Babylon (1929),
(Kirov) Ballet Company con- remarkable for its montage and
tinue to enthral audiences all lighting effects, and The Maxim
over the world. Since 1836 Trilogyy (1935–39). Kozintsev’s
the dancers have been trained versions of Hamlett (1964) and
at the former Imperial Ballet King Learr (1970), with music
School (see p110). In 1869– composed by Shostakovich
1903 the outstanding choreo- for both films, mark the height
grapher at the Mariinskiy was of his success in the West.
Marius Petipa. He inspired a
generation of dancers inclu-
ding Matilda Kshesinskaya SCIENTISTS
The Circus (1919) by avant-garde (see p72), Vaslaw Nijinsky
artist Marc Chagall (1890–1950) and the legendary
Anna Pavlova (1885–1931).
Petipa’s successor, Michel
ARTISTS Fokine (1880–1942), is famous
as the principal choreographer
From the 18th century, the of the Ballets Russes (see p119).
Academy of Arts (see p63) The Mariinskiy tradition was
was the centre of artistic life revived after the Revolution by
in St Petersburg. Dmitriy another graduate of the Ballet
Levitskiy (1735–1822), Orest School, Agrippina Vaganova
Kiprenskiy (1782–1836), (1879–1951). Her ground-
Silvestr Shchedrin (1791– work paved the way for the
1830), and Russia’s first inter- modern generation of dancers
nationally recognised artist, including Rudolf Nureyev
Karl Bryullov (1799–1852), (1938–93) and more recently,
were all trained here. Galina Mezentseva and Emil
In 1863, a group of students Faskhoutdinov.
rebelled against the Academy The great polymath Mikhail
and went on to establish the Lomonosov
Wanderers movement (see FILM DIRECTORS
p106). To some extent the The foundations of modern
Academy and the Wanderers The Lenfilm Studios (see p70) Russian science were laid in
became reconciled when the were founded in 1918 on the the 18th century by Mikhail
most versatile of these artists, site where the first Russian Lomonosov (1711–65) (see
Ilya Repin (1844–1930), was cine film had been shown in p61) who worked for over
appointed professor of painting 1896. In its heyday Lenfilm 20 years in the Kunstkammer
at the Academy in 1893. produced 15 movies a year. (see p60). His treatise, Ele-
Five years later Sergey Its two most remarkable menta Chymiae Mathematica,
Diaghilev (1872–1929) and published in 1741, anticipates
painter Alexandre Benois Dalton’s theory of the atomic
(1870–1960) launched the structure of matter.
World of Artt magazine (see In 1869, Dmitriy Mendeleev
p107), proclaiming “Art for art’s (1834–1907), a professor of
sake”. Another collaborator, chemistry, compiled the
Leon Bakst (1866–1924), de- Periodic Table of Elements.
signed the most famous of Many people believe that
the Ballets Russes costumes. the world’s first radio signal
Bakst also taught Marc was sent by Aleksandr
Chagall (1889–1985) who Popov (1859–1906) from the
later settled in France and had laboratories of St Petersburg
a profound impact on art in University on 24 March 1896.
the West as well as in Russia. In 1904, the world-famous
Other members of the Russian physiologist Ivan Pavlov
avant-garde include Kazimir (1849–1936) won the Nobel
Malevich (1878–1935) and Prize for medicine for his
Pavel Filonov (1883–1941). theory of conditioned reflexes
Works by all of these artists which he demonstrated by
can be seen at the Russian Poster for The Youth of Maxim experimenting on dogs and
Museum (see pp104–107). (1935) directed by Kozintsev their hearing responses.
Nevskiy Prospekt
From the Admiralty to the Griboedov Canal
A pleasant stroll along this first stretch of
St Petersburg’s main artery reveals a wealth of
attractive buildings. A profusion of architectural
styles ranges from the Baroque Stroganov Palace
to the magnificent Neo-Classical Cathedral of Our
Lady of Kazan and the striking Style-Moderne
Singer House. The stately avenue was once
known as the “Street of Tolerance”, referring to
the clutch of churches of different denominations
that were established here in the late 18th and
Literary Café
early o p108.)
Once called the Wolf and Beranger,
this café was known for its fashionable
Adm clientele. Pushkin left from here
(p78 atal duel in 1837 7 (see p83).
at Nos. 8
Admiralty Garden
This garden was laid out in
1872–4. Near the fountain
are busts of composer Mikhail
Glinka, writer Nikolai Gogol 0 metres
and poet Mikhail Lermontov.

0 yards 100
School No. 210

This school carries a sign,
dating from the Siege,
warning, “Citizens!
This side of the street is
more dangerous during
artillery bombardment”.
Aeroflot Building
Marian Peretyatkovich’s severe granite STAR SIGHT
building (1912) is uncharacteristic of the
. Cathedral of Our Lady
city’s architecture. The upper storeys were
inspired by the Palazzo Medici in Florence, of Kazan
the arcades by the Doge’s Palace, Venice.
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Dutch Church Building

The Dutch church was housed behind
the central Neo-Classical portico of Paul
Jacot’s seemingly secular building
(1831–7). The elongated wings are still
occupied by offices, flats and shops.
Stroganov Palace
The façade of this splendid Baroque
palace, one of the oldest buildings
on the street (1753), is embellished
with sculptural ornaments and the
Stroganov coat of armss (see p112).
The Fashion House

Marian Lyalevich designed this
building for Mertens Furriers
12. The impact of the
al arches is
ouse was built

Singer Sewing
ne Company in
–4 by Pavel Syuzor.
building is distin-
hed by a glass globe
a conical tower.
Continued
(pp48–9)
he Griboedov Canal,
commu originally known as the
a swimming pool Catherine Canal, was renamed
Soviet era, it is once again in 1923 after the 19th-century
open as a church (see p112). Russian playwright
Aleksandr Griboedov.
. Cathedral of
Our Lady of Kazan
Ninety-six Corinthian col-
umns, arranged in four rows,
form an arc facing Nevskiy
prospekt. Andrey Voronikhin’s
design was inspired by
Bernini’s colonnade for St
Peter’s in Romee (see p111).
Nevskiy Prospekt
From the Griboedov Canal to the Fontanka
Nevskiy Prospekt has been the main focus for St
Petersburg’s shopping and entertainment since
the mid-18th century. As the prospekt continues towards
the handsome Anichkov Bridge on the Fontanka river,
there are growing numbers of cafés, bars and restaur-
ants as well as three historic shopping arcades, the Silver
Rows, Gostinyy Dvor and Passazh. Bustling with life,
this stretch of the avenue also has many sights of historic
and architectural interest, including the Anichkov Palace.
Church on The Small The Church of Saint Catherine Passazh Arcade
Spilled Blood Hall of the (1762–82), by Vallin de la Mothe, This popular shopping mall
(p100) Philharmonia is a mixture of Baroque and Neo- is covered by a glass canopy
was the city’s Classical styles. It is the oldest
stretching 180 m (590 ft). The
main concert Roman Catholic church in Russia.
arcade opened in 1848 and
VA
hall in the early

19th century. Grand Hotel Russian was reconstructed in 1900.
Europe Museum
(p101) (pp104–107) The Armenian
Church (1771–80)
TSA
is a fine example
of Yuriy Velten’s
ULI
decorative Neo-
YA
Classical style
Q
(see p108).
Ne
(G
Q
Arcade (1784–7)
The Duma Tower was built

in 1804 as a watchtower for fires.
The Duma building was the centre
of local government from 1786–1918.
The R
National Library
houses over 33 million items,
including the earliest surviving
handwritten Russian book (1057).
Portik Rusca Perinnyie Ryadi . Gostinyy Dvor

Now standing alone, the six- This striking arcade
columned portico by Luigi Rusca has been St Petersburg’s
was originally the entrance to a long main bazaar since the
arcade of shops. The portico was mid-18th centuryy (see
dismantled during the construction of p108). It houses more
the metro and rebuilt in 1972. than 300 outlets which
sell everything from
0 metres 100 clothes and cosmetics to
souvenirs and chocolates.
0 yards 100
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. Yeliseev’s
Famous for its beautiful Style-
Moderne decor, this building
houses Yeliseev’s delicatessen on
the ground floorr (see p109).
STAR SIGHTS
Beloselskiy-Belozerskiy Palace
. Yeliseev’s Now a cultural centre and Waxworks Museum, this
sumptuous palace was designed in Neo-Baroque style
. Gostinyy Dvor by Andrey Stakenschneider in 1847–8. The red
façade is decorated with Corinthian pilasters and
atlantes upholding balconies.
Quarenghi’s Stallswere built in Number 66 was occupied by

1803–6 as trading rows. They the music publishers Bessel
were then handed over to the and Co in the 19th century. The Central
imperial chancellor and became Tchaikovsky was one of District Tax
known as the Cabinet. many composers who Office has a
frequented their offices. Neo-Classical
appearance, but
was not built
until the 1940s.
Aleksandrinsk
Theatre
A statue of Moskovskiy
Catherine the railway station
Great stands in
Ostrovskiy Square
(see p110).
Anichkov Bridge
Four dynamic
The Anichkov Palace was
bronze statues of
first built as a present from
Tsarina Elizabeth to her rearing horses and their tamers
lover, Aleksey Razumovskiy. adorn this well-known landmark.
It later became the winter They were designed in the 1840s by
residence of the heir to the Pyotr Klodtt (see p35).
throne (see p109).
ST PETERSBURG THROUGH THE YE

Y AR
different districts, with regattas,
W hatever the weather,

Russians are always
ready to celebrate
and consequently take their
public holidays very seriously.
balloon rides and fireworks at
night, when the torches on the
Rostral Columns (see p60) are lit.
Classical music is the central
Flowers have great symbolic theme of a large number of
significance, from mimosa for festivals each year, attracting talented
International Women’s Day, to performers from all over the world.
lilac to mark the beginning of Lilac, a symbol But even without an official holi-
summer. Every official holiday, as of summer day, R
Russian people love to get out
well as some local festivals such and about, whether to ski or ice-
as City Day, are celebrated both in the skate in the winter months or gather
centre of town and in the many mushrooms in late summer and autumn.
APRIL
SPRING
Musical Spring in St
Spring has set in for good Petersburg (Muzikalnaya
when the first sunbathers Vesna v Sankt-Peterburge),
gather on the beaches outside mid-Apr.
- As warm clothing and
the Peter and Paul Fortress heavy boots are laid aside
(see pp66–7) and when, in after the cold winter months,
early April after the waterways the public flock to concert halls
have thawed, the city’s bridges throughout the city.
open to allow ships through. Cosmonauts’ Day (Den
To warm themselves up Kosmonavtiki), 12 Apr.
after the months of cold, locals Candles lighting up Russian Ortho- Space exploration was one of
celebrate “maslennitsa”, the dox church during Easter service the glories of the Soviet Union
making of pancakes (blini) i and this occasion is celebrated
prior to Lent. They then gather tradition to say s prazdnikom with fireworks at 10pm.
bunches of willow as a sym- (congratulations on the holi-
bol of the approaching Palm day) to everyone. There are MAY
Sunday. On the eve of Lent, even special performances and
“Forgiveness Sunday”, it is concerts and, however sexist Labour Day (International
common practice to ask for- it may seem to non-Russians, Workers’ Solidarity Day (Den
giveness of those you might it is a very popular day. Truda), 1 May. Public holiday.
have offended during the year. From the Avant Garde to the Peterhof Fountains (Fontany
Once the snows have gone, Present (Ot avangarda do v Petergofe), first weekend in
the first trips to the dacha, or nashih dney), mid-Mar. A cele- May. Bands and orchestras
country house, are made to bration of 20th-century art and accompany the switching on
put the gardens in order. music in a city-wide festival. of the famous fountains at
Virtuosi 2000, late Mar/early Peterhoff (see p151). Victory
Apr. Aspiring young musicians Day (Den Pobedy), 9 May.
from all over the world come After a sombre ceremony at
together to perform and com- Piskarevskoe Cemeteryy (see
pete on St Petersburg’s stages. p126), smartly-dressed vet-
Easter Sunday (Paskha). erans fill Nevskiy prospekt
The dates on which Lent and (see pp46–9) and Palace
Easter fall change every Square (see p83) in
year. On Easter Sunday, commemoration of the
St Petersburg churches Nazi surrender in 1945.
are filled with worship- City Day (Den goroda),
pers, the evocative sound last week of May. A great
Early sunbathers on the banks of of ethereal music and variety of events,
the Peter and Paul Fortress chanting and the smell mainly taking place
of incense. Russians around the Peter
MARCH traditionally greet and Paul Fortress
each other with (see pp66–7),
International Women’s Day Khristos voskres mark the founding
(Mezhdunarodnyy zhenskiy (Christ is risen), of the city on 27
den), 8 Mar. Men rush around to which the reply May 1703.
the city buying flowers for is Voistine voskres Proud war veteran
their womenfolk. It is a (He is truly risen). on Victory Day
S T P E T E R S B U R G T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 51
AVERAGE Sunshine Hours

St Petersburg’s climate
Hours can vary dramatically
10 from hot, sunny days
and occasional heavy
8
downpours during the
6
summer months, to
winters with sub-zero
4 temperatures and snow.
From mid-June to mid-
2 July, it never gets dark.
During the winter months
0
the days are extremely
Jan Dec
short, but there can be
days of bright sunshine.
Performances and events for

SUMMER children are held throughout
the city.
A lilac in flower is the real Russia Day (Den Rossii), 12
symbol that warm weather has Jun. The day Russia became
set in and there is an air of “independent” of the Soviet
excitement once the Field of Union is marked with
Mars (see p94) comes into fireworks at 10pm.
bloom. Throughout the warm Trinity Sunday (Troytsa), 50
months, the city is deserted at days after Easter. Believers
weekends when people go off and atheists alike go to tidy
to their dacha, usually situated the graves of their loved ones
around the pine forests in the and raise a glass of vodka for Russian battleships moored on
area northwest of the city. their souls. the Neva, Navy Day
St Petersburg’s main festive The White Nights Swing,
season is during the acclaimed Jazz Festival, mid-June.
- A Festival of Festivals
White Nights in June, when large jam session supported (Festival-festivaley)
f , last week
the sun hardly sets and it by local and visiting in Jun. This is an international
never quite gets dark. Concerts, musicians for anyone with an non-competitive film festival
ballets and other performances interest in jazz. showing the best international
take place all over the city, Stars of the White Nights, films released over the past
which fills with thousands of Classical Music Festival year. The festival attracts film
visitors (see p201). The most (Zvezdy Belykh nochey), late stars from all over the world.
favoured place to be at night- Jun. This is the original White Tsarskoe Selo Carnival
time is on the embankments of Nights festival, with first-class (Tsarskoselskiy karnaval),
the Neva, which are crowded opera, classical music and last weekend in June. Funny
with revellers watching the ballet concerts performed at costumes, music and mayhem
bridges being raised at 2am. all major venues. fill the centre of Tsarskoe
White Nights, Rock Music Selo (see pp152–5).
JUNE Festival (Belye nochi), late
Jun. Numerous outdoor JULY
International Protection rock concerts are held at
of Children Day (Den the Peter and Paul Fortress Sporting Competitions St
Zatschity detey),
t 1 Jun. (see pp66–7). Petersburg has become an
increasingly popular sporting
venue in recent years,
offering everything from
tennis to yachting.
Navy Day (Den Voenno-
morskovo Flota), first Sun after
22 July. The Neva resembles a
shipyard, with submarines
and torpedo boats adorned
with flags and bunting.
AUGUST
With schools on holiday and

temperatures at their highest,
most families escape to their
dacha in the pine forests
Bridge opening in front of the Peter and Paul Fortress on a White Night around the city.
Rain and Snow-

AVERAGE MONTHLY RAIN AND SNOWFALL fall Chart
MM Inches
St Petersburg summers
100 4
are humid and wet, but
the downpours are a
80 welcome relief from the
3
summer heat. In winter
60 frequent snowfalls build
2 up to create metre-high
40
drifts, usually not thawing
20
1 until late March.
0 0
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Rainfall (from axis)
Snowfall (from axis)
Popular hunting spots can be

AUTUMN found to the northwest of the
city around Zelenogorsk and
City life begins to gain pace Repino (see p146). Enthusiastic
as people return from their mushroom-gatherers rise early
dacha and families begin to to hunt for chanterelles, oyster
prepare for the start of school. mushrooms, podberyozoviki
In September, when (brown mushrooms) and
theatres re-open after the podosinovikii (orange-cap
summer break, the city’s bolens). The locals are skilled Children dressed up for the first
cultural life resumes. The in identifying edible day of school
Mariinskiy (Kirov) mushrooms while amateur
returns from pickers should be SEPTEMBER
touring, and aware of the
new plays and dangers of Knowledge Day
operas are poisonous ones. (Den znaniy), 1 Sep. The city
premiered. October An activity with fewer is full of children heading for
marks the start of the potential side-effects their first day back at school,
festival season, with Chanterelle might be a trip on the laden with flowers.
guest musicians and mushrooms hydrofoil to Peterhof
theatre groups from all (see pp148–51) to see OCTOBER
over the world taking part. the magnificent fountains
The crisp autumn weather is before they are switched off Theatre Festival of the
ideal for gathering mushrooms. for the winter. Baltic Countries (Teatralnyy
festival Baltiyskikh stran), Oct.
Actors, clowns and pantomime
artists gather from the Baltic
countries to perform in
theatres and on the streets
with two weeks of mayhem.
NOVEMBER
Day of National Unity,

4 Nov. A reminder that the
Russian Federation is a multi-
national country with various
religions and political parties.
Sound Ways, Modern Music
Festival (Zvukovyye puti),
mid-Nov. A chance to catch
up with some of the most
avant-garde trends in jazz and
contemporary classical music
from Russia and the rest of
Europe. Musicians invited
from abroad abound, and
many of Russia’s most
renowned performers refuse
international engagements in
order to take part in this
Autumn colours in the park at Tsarskoe Selo exciting home-grown festival.
S T P E T E R S B U R G T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 53
Temperature Chart
AVERAGE MONTHLY TEMPERATURE St Petersburg’s climate
is maritime and milder
°C °F
than might be expected.
30 86
Summers are warm and
20 68 often punctuated with hot
10
days as early as May,
50 though during the winter
15 months temperatures
32
0 often fall below freezing.
14 St Petersburg’s average
-10
minimum and maxi-
-20 -4 mum temperatures
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec throughout the year
are shown in this chart.
WINTER
As the ice thickens on the

waters and the snow
deepens, people head for the
outdoors once more. Children’s
sledges are not expensive to
buy, and all other equipment
can be hired. Cross-country
skiing needs no lessons to
make it fun. Tsarskoe Selo (see
pp152–5) and Pavlovsk (see
pp158–61) parks provide ski
and sledge hire at the ski Sledging on the frozen Neva outside the Hermitage (see pp84–93)
bases (lyzhnaya baza). Skates
can be hired for use in the rink celebrate Old New Y Year, which JANUARY
at Moskovskiy Park Pobedy, falls on 14 January. A seasonal
by Park Pobedy metro station delight is the Christmas ballet, Russian Orthodox Christmas
in the southern suburbs, and The Nutcracker, at the (Rozhdestvo), 7 Jan. Christmas
also at the Central Park of Mariinskiy Theatre (see p119). is celebrated in a quieter
Culture and Rest (Krestovskiy fashion than Easter, with a
Ostrov metro station). DECEMBER traditional visit to an evening
The truly hardened members service on Christmas Eve
of the local “walruses” swim- Constitution Day (Den (6th), when the church bells
ming club break the ice by the konstitutsii), 12 Dec. When ring out all over the city.
Peter and Paul Fortress (see Yeltsin’s new constitution re-
Y
pp66–7) every day to take an placed the Brezhnev version, a FEBRUARY
early morning dip. new constitution day replaced
In the midst of winter acti- the old one. Fireworks are set Defenders of the Motherland
vities come New Y Year and off all over town at 10pm. Day (Den zashchitnikov
Christmas. New Y Year is the big Musical Encounters in the rodiny), 23 Feb. The male
holiday, while Christmas itself Northern Palmyra equivalent of Women’s Day.
is celebrated according to the (Muzykalnyye vstrechi v Men are congratulated and
Orthodox calendar, on 7 Severnoy Palmire), Dec–Jan. given flowers and presents.
January. Many people also still This classical music festival is
the last one of the year and is PUBLIC HOLIDAYS
made even more magical by New Year’s Day (1 Jan)
the outside backdrop of snowy Russian Orthodox
streets and frozen waterways. Christmas (7 Jan)
New Year’s Eve (Novyy god),
31 Dec. Still the biggest holi- International Women’s Day
day of the year, New Year’s
Y (8 Mar)
Eve is best celebrated with the Easter Sunday (Mar/Apr)
local “champagne”, Shampan- Labour Day (1 May)
skoye (see p183). This is Victory Day (9 May)
considered to be a family cele-
Independence Day (12 Jun)
bration, with people dressed as
Grandfather Frost (the Russian Day of Reconciliation (7
equivalent of Santa Claus) Nov)
Drilling a hole through the ice for and the Snow Maiden, the Constitution Day (12 Dec)
winter-r time fishing traditional bearers of gifts.
Water taxis ferrying tourists past the grand Stroganov Palace on the Moyka river
AREA BY AREA
VASILEVSKIY ISLAND 5663

PETROGRADSKAYA 6473
PALACE EMBANKMENT 7495
GOSTINYYDVOR 96113
SENNAYA PLOSHCHAD 114123
FURTHER AFIELD 124131
THREE GUIDED WALKS 132139
www.touristas.clan.su
S T P E T E R S B U R G A R E A B Y A R E A 57
VASILEVSKIY ISLAND
I t was Peter the Great’s intention (linii), which run from north to south.
that Vasilevskiy Island (Vasilevskiy The focal point of the island is at the
ostrov), the largest island in the
Neva delta, was to be the administrative
heart of his new capital. However,
east end with the fine ensemble
of public buildings around the spit
or Strelka. The rest of the island
lack of access (the first per- developed with the spread of
manent bridge was not industrialization in the
built until 1850) and the 19th century and it
hazards of floods and became a middle-
stormy crossings led class haven. There
to the abandonment Allegorical sculpture of Neptune on the was also a thriving
of Peter’s project, and façade of the Naval Museum German community
the centre grew up here which is reflect-
across the river around the Admiralty ed in the several Lutheran churches.
(see p78) instead. The island’s original Today much of the island has a sedate
street plan, based on canals that were air, with broad tree-lined avenues, a
never dug (see p20), survives in the clutch of museums and some attractive
numbered streets known as lines 19th-century architecture.
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Museums Churches
Kunstkammer 4 St Andrew’s Cathedral 8
Menshikov Palace 6
Streets and Bridges
Naval Museum 2
Bolshoy Prospekt 7
Zoological Museum 3
Lieutenant Shmid
midt Bridge 0
Historic Buildings
and Monuments
Academy of Arts 9
Rostral Columns 1
Twelve Colleges 5
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4INJEUB See p58–9
0 metres 400
Q Metro
v Tram stop
0 yards 400
One of the two imposing 14th-century BC sphinxes situated in front of the Academy of Arts
58
Street-by-Street: the Strelka

The eastern end of Vasilevskiy Island is known as the
Strelka, or “spit”. Once St Petersburg’s main centre of
commerce, it has become an area of learning. The
Academy of Sciences and St Petersburg University are
situated here, as are various museums, institutes and
libraries, housed in the former warehouses and customs
buildings. The nautical theme is preserved in the Naval
Museum and the two Rostral Columns. In front of these
lighthouses is a lawn, a popular spot for newly married
couples to have their picture taken. From here there
are views across the Neva towards the Peter and Paul The Naval Museum and Rostral
Fortress (see pp66–7) and the Hermitage (see pp84–93). Columns from across the Neva
The Lomonosov Monument

honours Mikhail Lomonosov
(1711–65), who taught at the
Academy of Sciences.
YA
NI
LI
A YA
SK
E EV
D EL
EN
M
Twelve Colleges
Originally erected to
12 ministries of Peter
government, they now
ZD
building of St Petersbu
OE
PR
The
Y
UN
Scien
V
IV
E
1724. T H
ER
RZ
was con BI
SI
Quarengh
TE
TS
KA
Y
. Kunstkam
A
A
N
The Kunstkamm B
ER
the Great’s collec EZ
H
curiosities. Its tower N
A
sundial, is a St Peters Y
A
Y
VY
SO
O RT OST
DV M
Pa
Embankme
Zoological Museum STAR SIGHTS

With over 1.5 million specimens the museum is one of . Naval Museum
the finest of its kind in the world. The exhibits include
a set of stuffed animals that belonged to Peter the Great . Kunstkammer
and a world-famous collection of mammoths 3
VA S I L E V S K I Y I S L A N D 59
Academy of Sciences Library was PETROGRADSKAYA

D
founded in 1714 with Peter the Ma

la y
a Neva
Great’s personal book collec-
tion. It now has over 17
million volumes. VASILEVSKIY ISLAN
AND
Sakharov e va
aN
Monument ay
lsh
Bo
LOCATOR MAP
See Street Finder, map 1
The New
Exchange Bazaar
was designed by
Quarenghi in the
early 19th century.
VA
At the time a busy

market filled its
MAKARO
Neo-Classical
loggias. Today stu-
dents have replaced
the shoppers, as
AYA
the building houses

departments of
ZHN
BI
the university.
RZ
ERE
HE
VO
NAB
Y
PROE Z D
e,
m.
BIRZHEVO
Y
MOST
Paul
ess
. Naval Museum
Among the museum’s
many fine model boats
is the botik, also known
D as the “Grandfather of
A
H CH the Russian Navy”, on
OS
PL which Peter the Great
A YA learnt to sail 2
EV
ZH
BIR
Rostral Columns
Originally lighthouses
guiding ships through
the busy port of St
Petersburg, these
imposing 32-m (105-ft)
high columns are a
distinctive feature of
St Petersburg’s skyline.
They are still lit for
Navy Dayy (see p51)
0 yards 4 and other festivals 1
60 S T P E T E R S B U R G A R E A B Y A R E A
Rostral Columns 1 commerce was traditionally Zoological

Ростральные колонны the lifeblood of this sea-
oriented city.
Museum 3
Rostralnye kolonny Зоологический музей
The exchange
became redundant Zoologicheskiy muzey
Birzhevaya ploshchad. Map 1 C5.
@ 7, 10, 47, K-47, K-128, K-129, after the Revolution Universitetskaya naberezhnaya 1/3.
K-147, K-187, K228, K-252. and in 1940 it was Map 1 C5. Tell 328 0112. @ 7,
 1, 7, 10. turned into a museum. 10, 47, K-47, K-128, K-129, K-147,
Beneath the magnifi- K-187.  1, 7, 10. # 11am–6pm
Situated on the Strelka cent coffered ceiling of Sat–Thu. & (free Thu). - =
before the Naval the spacious trading 8 English.
Museum, the impressive hall is an exhibition
twin russet-coloured on the history of the Housed in a former customs
Rostral Columns were Russian and Soviet warehouse designed by
designed as lighthouses by navy from its origins Giovanni Lucchini in 1826,
Thomas de Thomon in under Peter the Great this museum has one of the
1810. During the 19th to the present day. world’s largest natural history
century the oil lamps were Pride of place belongs collections containing more
replaced by gas torches to the botik, the small than 1.5 million specimens.
which are still lit on masted wood- Some of the stuffed animals
ceremonial occa- en vessel on belonged to Peter the Great’s
sions. Following a which Peter Kunstkammerr collection,
Roman custom, the learned to sail. including the horse he rode at
columns are decorated There is plenty the Battle of Poltava (see p18).
with protruding ships’ of interest be Dioramas recreate natural
prows in celebration Rostral Column sides, from habitats for giant crabs,
of naval victories. The on the Strelka model ships and weasels, polar bears and blue
monumental figures carved prow whales. The museum is
around the base represent four figureheads to uniforms, flags renowned for its collection of
of Russia’s rivers, the Neva, and guided missile submarines. mammoths. One prized carcass
Volga, Dnieper and Volkhov. There is also a superb diorama was exhumed from the frozen
of the storming of the Winter wastes of Siberia in 1902 and
Palace (see pp28–9) on the is almost 44,000 years old.
Naval Museum 2 second-floor landing.
Центральный The photographic displays
Военно-Морской музей around the hall concentrate
Tsentralnyy Voenno-Morskoy on the revolutionary period.
These were redesigned only
muzey in 1995 to present a more
Birzhevaya ploshchad 4. Map 1 C5.
balanced view of events, such
Tell 328 2502. @ 7, 10, 47, K-47,
as the involvement of Western
K-128, K-129, K-147, K-187, K-252.
powers in World War II.
 1, 7, 10 # 11am–
Weasel in the Zoological Museum
6pm Wed–Sun.
& - = 8 English.
www.museum.navy.ru
Kunstkammer 4
The former Stock Кyнсткамера
Exchange (birzha) Kunstkamera
was built in 1805–
10 as the focal Universitetskaya naberezhnaya 3.
point of the Strelka. Map 1 C5. Tell 328 1412. @ 7, 10,
The building was 47, K-47, K-128, K-129, K-147,
designed by the K-187.  1, 7, 10. # 11am–
Swiss architect 5:45pm Tue–Sun. & 8 English.
Thomas de Thomon
and was modelled The delicate, sea green lan-
on one of the tern tower of the Baroque
famous Greek tem- Kunstkammer (“art chamber”)
ples at Paestum in is visible across this part of
Italy. A
Above the col- Vasilevskiy Island. The build-
umned east façade is ing, by Georg Mattarnoviy, was
an allegorical sculpt- constructed in 1718–34 to ex-
ure featuring the hibit Peter the Great’s infamous
sea-god Neptune in Kunstkammerr collection.
a chariot drawn by While touring Holland in 1697
sea horses; a remin Neo-Classical façade of the Naval Museum, Peter attended the lectures of
der that maritime overlooking the Strelka Frederik Ruysch (1638–1731),
The restrained Baroque façade of the Kunstkammer (1718–34), St Petersburg’s first museum
the most celebrated anatomist Twelve Colleges 5 square with an unbroken view
of his day. He was so impres- Двенадцать коллегий across the Strelka. Another
sed with Ruysch’s collection Dvenadtsat kollegiy popular theory is that Prince
of rarities that on a return Menshikov changed the plan
visit in 1717, he purchased the Universitetskaya naberezhnaya 7. in Peter’s absence so that the
entire collection of over 2,000 Map 1 C5. @ 7, 47, K-47, K-128, K- building would not encroach
anatomical preparations. He 129, K-147.  1, 10. ¢ to public. on his grounds. Domenico
transported it to St Petersburg Trezzini won the competition
T
and exhibited it to a wide-eyed This distinguished for the design in 1723, but
public, who were enticed by Baroque building of subsequent bureaucratic
free glasses of vodka. At the red-and-white stuccoed wrangling delayed its
time, Peter’s collection also brick is almost 400 m completion for 20 years.
included bizarre, live exhibits (1,300 ft) in length. The building’s function
of deformed or unusual It was intended for gradually changed
people, including an herma- Peter the Great’s and in 1819 part of
phrodite. This, Russia’s first newly-streamlined it was acquired by
museum, also included a administration of 12 St Petersburg Uni-
library, an anatomical theatre colleges or ministries. versity. A string
and an observatory. The single, uninter- of revolutionaries,
Today the Kuntskammer rupted façade was including Lenin
houses the Museum of Anthro- designed to symbo- in 1891, were
pology and Ethnography, lize the government’s Mikhail Lomonosov educated here.
with the remnants of Peter’s unity of purpose, while (1711–65) Among the
bizarre collection on display the curious alignment, famous Russian
in the central rotunda. In- at right angles to the embank- lecturers to teach here were
cluded are the heart and ment, is explained by Peter’s the chemist Dmitriy Mendeleev
skeleton of Peter’s personal unrealized plan for a large (1834–1907) (see p45) and
servant, “Bourgeois”, a giant the physiologist Ivan Pavlov
at 2.27 m (7.5 ft), and a (1849–1936) (see p45).
cabinet of teeth extracted by Overlooking the Neva, out-
the tsar who was an enthu- side the TTwelve Colleges, is an
siastic amateur dentist. Most engaging bronze statue of the
gruesome of all is the collec- great 18th-century polymath
tion of pickled oddities which Mikhail Lomonosov (unveiled
include Siamese twins and a in 1986). The son of a fisher-
two-headed sheep. man, Lomonosov was the first
The halls surrounding the Russian-born member of the
Kuntskammerr collection con- nearby Academy of Sciences.
tain exhibitions on the peoples A “universal genius”, he wrote
of the world. Unfairly neg- poetry, systematized Russian
lected by most foreign visitors, grammar and was a pioneer
these marvellously old-fash- in mathematics and the physi-
ioned displays present a vast cal sciences. Thanks to his
and informative range of scientific discoveries, the art
artifacts, from an Inuit kayak A section of the west façade of of porcelain, glass and mosaic
to Javanese shadow puppets. Trezzini’s Twelve Colleges production began in Russia.
fashion, including a late 17th-

century portrait of Peter the
Great by the Dutch painter Jan
Weenix. The mirrors were a
novelty at that time and such
displays of vanity were ana-
thema to the Orthodox Church.
The Great Hall, decorated
in gold and stucco, is where
balls and banquets were held.
On one famous occasion, it
was the setting for a “dwarfs’
The southern façade of Prince Menshikov’s 18th-century palace wedding” which Menshikov
arranged for the amusement
Menshikov Palace 6 pied-à-terre. Guests would of his royal master.
Меншиковский дворец cross the Neva by boat and
Menshikovskiy dvorets arrive to the grand welcome
of a liveried orchestra.
Universitetskaya naberezhnaya 15. The palace is now a branch
Map 5 B1. Tell 323 1112. @ 7, 47, of the Hermitage (see pp84–
K-47, K-128, K-129, K-147, K-187. 93) with exhibitions on early
v 1, 10.  1, 11. # 10:30am– 18th-century Russian culture,
4:30pm Tue–Sun. & 8 compulsory revealing the extent to which
(English, French, German available). Peter the Great’s court was
influenced by Western tastes.
The ochre-painted Baroque The conducted tour begins
Menshikov Palace, with on the ground floor; besides
its beautifully carved pilasters, the kitchen there are displays
was one of the earliest stone of Peter’s cabinet-making
buildings in St Petersburg. De- tools, period costumes, sturdy
signed by Giovanni Fontana oak chests and ships’ com-
and Gottfried Schädel for the passes. Adorning the beautiful
infamous Prince Menshikov, vaulted hallway are marble
the palace was completed in statues imported from Italy
1720. The palace estate ori- which include a Roman Apollo
ginally extended as far as the dating to the 2nd century AD.
Malaya Neva river to the north. Upstairs, the secretary’s The fine, Style-Moderne apteka,
Prince Menshikov entertained rooms are decorated with 17th- just off Bolshoy prospekt
here on a lavish scale, often century Dutch engravings of
on behalf of Peter the Great, Leyden, Utrecht and Kraków. Bolshoy Prospekt 7
who adopted the palace as a A series of breathtaking rooms Большой проспект
are lined with hand-painted Bolshoy prospekt
blue and white 18th-century
PRINCE MENSHIKOV Dutch tiles. Tiles were not Map 1 A5. q Vasileostrovskaya.
A leading advisor, com- only fashionable, but also @ 7, 128, 151, 152, K-47, K-124,
rade-in-arms and a very practical means K-128, K-129.  10.
friend of Peter the of deterring flies
Great, Aleksandr and dust. This imposing avenue was
Menshikov In the tiled bed- opened early in the 18th
(1673–1729) room of Varvara century to connect Menshikov’s
rose from hum- (Menshikov’s estate to the Gulf of Finland.
ble origins to sister-in-law and The mix of architectural
his position as confidante) is a styles ranges from the elegant
the first governor German-made Neo-Classicism of St Catherine’s
of St Petersburg. four-poster bed, Lutheran Church (1768–71) at
After Peter’s death with a Turkish No. 1 to the simple Troyekurov
T
in 1725, Menshikov coverlet woven from House (No. 13, 6-ya liniya) in
engineered the ascension cotton, silk and silver 17th-century Petrine Baroque.
of Catherine I (Peter’s wife, thread. Hanging behind it is Other buildings of note in-
and Menshikov’s former an exquisite 17th-century clude the arcaded St Andrew’s
mistress) to the throne, thus Flemish tapestry. food market (1789–90) and
maintaining his power until Menshikov and Peter often two Style-Moderne edifices.
her demise. His notorious received guests in the aptly One of these is the former
extravagance and venality named Walnut Study which pharmacy or apteka (1907–10)
eventually caught up with has Persian walnut panelling around the corner on 7-ya
him. Accused of treason, and commanding views of liniya, and the other is
he died in exile in 1729. the Neva. Paintings hang from Adolph Gaveman’s Lutheran
coloured ribbons, as was the orphanage at No. 55 (1908).
The Academy of Arts (1764–88) on the Neva embankment, an example of early Russian Neo-Classicism
St Andrew’s Situated next door is Giuseppe an art school, it exhibits the

Trezzini’s small Church of the
T work of students past and
Cathedral 8 Three Saints (1740–60) which present, including canvases,
Андреевский собор is dedicated to SS Basil the plaster casts of famous sculp-
Andreevskiy sobor Great, John Chrysostom and tures, architectural drawings
Gregory of Nazianzus. and models of many of the
6-ya liniya 11. Map 5 B1. Tell 323 city’s notable buildings, such
3418. @ 7, 128, K129.  10. 7 as the magnificent Smolnyy
Academy of Arts 7 Convent (see p128).
First built on the initiative of Академия Художеств The splendid Neo-Classical
Peter the Great’s second wife, Akademiya Khudozhestv halls and galleries, though
Catherine I (see p21), who faded, retain something of
donated 3,000 roubles towards Universitetskaya naberezhnaya 17. their original grandeur. Of note
its construction, the original Map 5 B1. Tell 323 3578. @ 7, 47, are the Conference Hall on
wooden church on this site K129, K-147.  10. v 1, 11. the first floor, with its ceiling
was destroyed by fire. # 11am–6pm Wed–Sun. & 8 painting by Vasiliy Shebuev,
The present Baroque church and the adjoining Raphael
with its distinctive steeple-like Founded in 1757 to train and Titian galleries, adorned
bell tower was constructed by home-grown artists in the with copies of Vatican frescoes.
Aleksandr Vist in 1764–80. preferred Western styles and Flanking the river stairs
The most stunning feature of techniques of art, the Academy outside the Academy are two
the interior is the elaborately spawned a galaxy of talent, sphinxes from the 14th century
carved 18th-century icono- including the great painter BC. Discovered among the
stasis which incorporates icons Ilya Repin (see p42) and ruins of Thebes in ancient
from the original church. architects Andrey Zakharov Egypt, they were installed
(1761–1811) and here in 1832. The faces are
Andrey Voronikhin thought to bear a likeness of
(1759–1814). the pharaoh Amenhotep III.
The innate con-
servatism of the Lieutenant Shmidt
Academy tended to
discourage innova- Bridge 0
tion and experiment Мост Лейтенанта Шмидта
and in 1863 a band Most Leytenanta Shmidta
of 14 students
walked out of their Map 5 B2. @ K-62, K-124, K-144,
graduation exams in K-154, K-186, K-222, K-350. v 1, 11.
protest. They went
on to found a realist Originally known as the
art movement and Nicholas Bridge, this was the
became known as first permanent crossing of
the Wanderers or the Neva when it opened in
peredvizhniki 1850. The reconstruction of
(see pp106–7)
p . the bridge which was carried
The imposing out in 1936–8 incorporated
Academy, built be- Aleksandr Bryullov’s original
tween 1764–880 by railings, fancifully decorated
Aleksandr Kokorinov with sea horses and tridents.
and Vallin de la The bridge commemorates
Mothe, is an exam- Lieutenant Pyotr Shmidt, a
ple of the transition sailor on the cruiser Ochakov,
The treasure of St Andrew’s Cathedral, its from Baroque to who led an uprising of the
beautiful Baroque iconostasis Neo-Classicism. Still Black Sea fleet in 1905.
PETROGRADSKAYA
T he city was founded on
the northern banks of the
Neva river in 1703, at the
height of the Great Northern War
(see p18). Building began with the
Petrogradskaya was sparsely
populated until the late 1890s
when the construction of the
Trinity Bridge made the area
accessible from the city centre.
construction of a wooden fortress The bridge caused a housing
and Petrogradskaya, or the boom at the height of a fashion
Petrograd Side, soon became a for Style-Moderne architecture
marshy suburb of wooden cab- which is still in evidence today.
ins occupied by craftsmen work- Detail on bridge The population quadrupled and
ing on Peter the Great’s new city. to Peter and Paul the area became very popular
Nearby, the area around Trinity Fortress with artists and professionals.
Square was originally a small The highlight of the area,
merchants’ quarter centred around which is still largely residential, is the
a now demolished church and St Peter and Paul Fortress with its cathe-
Petersburg’s first stock exchange. dral, museums and grim history.
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Museums Gates
Artillery Museum 7 Neva Gate 5
Cabin of Peter the Great e St Peter’s Gate 1
Commandant’s House 4
Cruiser Aurora w Cathedrals
Engineer’s House 2 Cathedral of SS Peter and Paul 3
Kirov Museum 0 Streets, Squares and Parks

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The Baroque Cathedral of SS Peter and Paul in the Peter and Paul Fortress
Street-by-Street: Peter and Paul Fortress

The founding of the Peter and Paul Fortress on 27 May 1703, on The Archives of
the orders of Peter the Great, is considered to mark the founding the War Ministry
of the city. It was first built in wood and was later replaced, occupy the site of
the “Secret House”, a
section by section, in stone by Domenico Trezzini. Artillery Museum
prison for political
Its history is a gruesome one, since hundreds of 70) criminals in the 18th
forced labourers died while buildin and 19th centuries.
fortress and its bastions were
guard and torture many
including Peter’s ow
The cells where
were once kept
to the public, a
a couple of m
and the magn
cathedral wh
houses the to
of the Roman
Trubetskoy Bastion
From 1872–1921 the
dark, damp, solitary- Th
confinement cells in the foun
bastion served as a grim still pro
prison for enemies of the ceremon
medals and
state. Today, the bastion
is open to visitors 6
The N
Bastion
where the
cannon is fire
tradition began in
1873, stopped after
the revolution and
was resumed in 1957.
The beach is popular in summer and in winter, Ne

when members of the “walruses” swimming club This rivers
break the ice for an invigorating dip. entrance, also known
as “Death Gateway”,
Commandant’s House leads to the Comman-
For 150 years this dant’s pier from which
attractive Baroque house prisoners embarked on
was the scene of interro- their journey to execu-
gations and trials of tion or exile. The Neva
political prisoners. It river’s flood levelss (see
now houses a museum p37) are recorded
of local history 4 under the arch 0
P E T R O G R A D S K AYA 67
. Cathedral of SS
Peter and Paul
Marbled columns, glit-
tering chandeliers and
painted decor combine PETROGRADSKAYA
with Ivan Zarudnyy’s

carved and gilded
va
iconostasis to create a Ne
magnificent setting
for the tombs of the
LOCATOR MAP
Romanov monarchs 3 See Street Finder, map 2
now a ticket
ir shop.
The Grand Ducal burial

vault is the last resting place
several Grand Dukes shot
he Bolsheviks in 1919
Grand Duke Vladimir
in exile in 1992.
St Peter’s Gate
The entrance to the fortress, by
Domenico Trezzini, completed
in 1718, features the Romanov
double eagle with an emblem of
St George and the dragon 1
STAR SIGHT
. SS Peter and Paul
Cathedral
metres 100
ds 100
Ravelin
ket office.
, in the outer
constructed
–40.
novskiy most
oostrovskiy
t, Gorkovskaya
and Trinity Bridge
is b
Chemiakin House
B building, dating from
1748–9, houses temporary
KEY exhibitions of artifacts used in
everyday life in St Petersburg
Suggested route
before the revolution 2
St Peter’s Gate 1 architecture, Trezzini

Петровские ворота produced a Baroque
Petrovskie vorota masterpiece of
singular elegance.
Petropavlovskaya krepost. Map 2 The bell tower was
E3. q Gorkovskaya. @ 46, K-46, completed first to
K-63, K-76. test the foundations
and this served as
The main entrance to the an excellent view-
Peter and Paul Fortress is point from which
through two contrasting arches. Peter could oversee
The plain Neo-Renaissance the construction
Ivan Gate (1730s) leads to the work of his new
more imposing St Peter’s Gate city. The cathedral
(1717–18), an ornate Baroque An accordion and organ surrounded by Style- was completed in
structure with scrolled wings Moderne furniture, Engineer’s House 1733, but was badly
and a rounded-gable pediment. damaged by fire in
Domenico Trezzini redesigned and the museum displays 1756 when the soaring 122-m
the Peter Gate, retaining Karl an excellent collection which (400-ft) spire was struck by
Osner’s expressively carved includes phonographs, gramo- lightning. The gilded needle
bas-relief which allegorizes phones, symphoniums and spire, crowned by a weather-
Peter the Great’s victory over piano accordions of the period. vane angel, remained the
Charles XII of Sweden (see A section on vintage tech- tallest structure in St Peters-
p18). It depicts St Peter nology features Singer sewing burg until the building of the
casting down the winged machines, typewriters, Bakelite TV transmitter in the 1960s.
sorcerer Simon Magus. telephones and box cameras. The interior, with its glitter-
ing chandeliers, pink and
green Corinthian columns and
Cathedral of overarching vaults, is also a
SS Peter and Paul 3 far cry from the traditional
Петропавловский собор Russian Orthodox church.
Petropavlovskiy sobor Even the iconostasis is a
Baroque flight of fancy. This
Petropavlovskaya krepost. Map 2 D4. masterpiece of gilded wood-
Tell 232 9454. q Gorkovskaya. carving was designed by Ivan
# 10am–6pm Thu–Mon; 11am– Zarudnyy and executed in the
5pm Tue. & 8 English. 1720s by Moscow craftsmen.
www.spbmuseum.ru After Peter’s death in 1725,
the cathedral became the last
Domenico Trezzini designed resting place of the tsars. The
this magnificent church sarcophagi are all of a uniform
Peter Gate, entrance to fortress within the fortress in 1712. white Carrara marble, except
Employed by Peter the Great, the tombs of Alexander II and
who wished to turn his back his wife Maria Alexandrovna,
Engineer’s House 2 on traditional Russian church which are carved from Altai
Инженерный дом
Inzhenernyy dom
Petropavlovskaya krepost. Map 2 D3.

Tell 232 9454, 230 0329.
q Gorkovskaya. # 11am–5pm
Thu–Mon; 11am–4pm Tue. &
8 English. www.spbmuseum.ru
The Engineer’s House, built

in 1748–9, has a changing
exhibition which gives a
fascinating glimpse of daily
life in St Petersburg before
the Revolution. Architectural
backdrops and historical paint-
ings give way to an engaging
miscellany of artifacts, ranging
from model boats to duelling
pistols and court costumes.
In 1915 there were more
than 100 outlets selling music-
al instruments in the city Cathedral of SS Peter and Paul, with Dvortsovyy most in foreground
jasper and Ural rhodonite.

Peter the Great’s tomb lies to
the right of the iconostasis.
The only tsars who are not
buried here are Peter II, Ivan
VI and, until recently,
Nicholas II. In 1998 a
controversial decision was
taken to rebury the remains
of the last Romanov tsar, his
wife and children, and the
servants that died together
with them, in a chapel by the
entrance to the cathedral.
The Grand Ducal Mauso-
leum, where relatives of the Neva Gate leading from the river into the Peter and Paul Fortress
tsars are buried, was added to
the northeast of the cathedral 1784–7 and is unornamented a pardon. Instead, he was
at the end of the 19th century. apart from an anchor in the tortured and beaten to death,
pediment. In the archway, almost certainly with Peter’s
brass plaques mark record consent and participation.
Commandant’s flood levels. The catastrophic For the next 100 years pri-
House 4 inundation of November 1824 soners were incarcerated in
Комендантский дом is the one commemorated in the much feared Secret House,
Komendantskiy dom Pushkin’s poem, The Bronze since demolished. In 1872 a
Horseman (see p78). new prison block opened in
Petropavlovskaya krepost. Map 2 D4. the Trubetskoy Bastion which
Tell 232 9454. q Gorkovskaya. has existed as a museum since
# 10am–6pm Thu–Mon; 11am– Trubetskoyy Bastion 6 1924. On the ground floor
5pm Tue. & 8 English. Трубецкой бастион
Т there is a small exhibition of
Trubetskoy bastion period photographs, prison
Dating from the 1740s, the uniforms and a model of the
plain brick, two-storey Petropavlovskaya krepost. Map 2 D4. guardroom. Upstairs are 69
Commandant’s House served Tell 232 9454. q Gorkovskaya. isolation cells, restored to
both as the residence of the # 10am–6pm Thu–Mon; 11am– their original appearance, while
fortress commander and as a 5pm Tue. & 8 English. downstairs there are two un-
courthouse. Over the years, heated, unlit punishment cells
political prisoners, including Peter the Great’s son, the where the recalcitrant were
the Decembrist rebels (see Tsarevich Aleksey, was the locked up for 48 hours at a
p23), were brought here for first political prisoner to be time. Once every two weeks,
interrogation and sentencing. detained in the grim fortress all detainees were taken to
The house is now a museum, prison. Unjustly accused of the Bath House in the exercise
with a ground-floor exhibition treason in 1718 by his over- yard for de-lousing. Here
on medieval settlements in bearing father, Alexis escaped prisoners were also put in
the St Petersburg region, and abroad only to be lured back irons before being carted off
temporary exhibitions upstairs. to Russia with the promise of to penal servitude in Siberia.
Neva Gate 5 POLITICAL PRISONERS

Невскине ворота The fortress’ sinister role as a prison for political activists
Nevskie vorota continued until after the Revolution. Generations of rebels
and anarchists were interrogated and imprisoned here,
Petropavlovskaya krepost. Map 2 E4. including Leon Trotsky in the
q Gorkovskaya. wake of the 1905 Revolution.
Other prominent detainees were
This austere river entrance the leading Decembrists in 1825
to the fortress was once (see p23), Dostoevsky in 1849
known as the “Death Gate”. (see p123) and, in 1874–6, the
Prisoners to be transported anarchist Prince Pyotr Kropotkin.
to the even more notorious In 1917 it was the turn first of
Schlüsselburg Fortress (to the tsar’s ministers, then of
the east of St Petersburg) for members of the Provisional
capital punishment, or to a Government. Then, in the Civil
“living death” in penal servi- Warr (see p27), the Bolsheviks
tude, were led down the held hostage four Romanov
granite steps and taken away Leon Trotsky (1879–1940) in Grand Dukes who were subse-
by boat. The appropriately the Trubetskoy Bastion quently executed in 1919.
dour, grey gateway dates from
house (No. 5) was once occu-

pied by Count Sergey Witte,
a leading industrialist who
negotiated the peace treaty
with Japan in 1905 (see p26).
Situated just off the start of
the avenue is the city’s only
mosque (1910 –14). Designed
by Russian architects, its mina-
rets, majolica tiling and the
rough granite surfaces of the
walls are fully in keeping with
the surrounding Style-Moderne
architecture. The mosque was,
in fact, modelled on the
Mausoleum of Tamerlane in
Rocket launcher in the courtyard of the Artillery Museum Samarkand and involved
Central Asian craftsmen.
Artillery Museum 7 entertained the crowds, while At No. 10 is the tall portico
Музей Артиллерии the more serious-minded were of the Leningrad Film Studios
Muzey Artillerii drawn to the lecture halls, (Lenfilm). It was on this site,
reading galleries and tea in May 1896, that the Lumière
Alexandrovskiy Park 7, Kronverk. rooms. The pièce de résistance brothers showed the first mov-
Map 2 D3. Tell 232 0296. q was the magnificent domed ing picture in Russia. Since its
Gorkovskaya. # 11am–5pm Wed– Opera House (1911), where founding in 1918, some of the
Sun. ¢ last Sun each month. & the legendary bass singer, most innovative Soviet film
Fyodor Chaliapin, sometimes directors such as Leonid Trau
T -
This vast, horseshoe-shaped gave performances. berg and Grigoriy
building in red brick stands on Today the Opera Kozintsevv (see p45)
the site of the Kronverk, the House offers less have worked there.
outer fortifications of the highbrow entertain- At the intersection
Peter and Paul Fortress (see ment, as its change with ulitsa Mira, each
pp66–67). Designed by Pyotr of name to Music Hall house has indivi-
Tamanskiy and constructed in suggests. The adjoin- dually designed
1849 – 60, the building was ing 1930s buildings turrets, spires, reliefs
originally used as the arsenal. include the innovative Griffon, No. 1–3 and iron balconies,
The museum boasts more Baltic House Theatre, Kamennoostrovskiy forming a handsome
than 600 pieces of artillery and the Planetarium and a Style-Moderne
military vehicles, including waxworks museum. ensemble. Other buildings of
tanks and the armoured car in The park still draws crowds interest include No. 24
which Lenin rode in triumph on summer weekends and (1896 –1912), with its red
from Finland Station n (see p126) public holidays, although some brick majolica and terracotta
to Kshesinskaya Mansion (see of the attractions, especially façade; No. 26–28 where
p72) on 3 April 1917. There the zoo, are now rather tawdry. Sergey Kirov lived (see p72);
are uniforms, regimental and on the corner of Bolshoy
flags, muskets and small arms Kamennoostrovskiy prospekt, the “Turreted
T House”
dating back to medieval times, with its Neo-Gothic portal.
as well as several rooms Prospekt 9
devoted to World War II. Каменноостровский проспект
Kamennoostrovskiy prospekt
Aleksandrovskiy Map 2 D2. q Gorkovskaya or Petro-
Park 8 gradskaya. @ 46, K-
K 63, K-
K 76, K-
K 223.
Александровский парк
Aleksandrovskiy park Developed during the con-
struction boom of the late
Kronverkskiy prospekt. Map 2 D3. 1890s, this eye-catching avenue
q Gorkovskaya. 7 is noted for its Style-Moderne
architecture. The first house,
The park’s unique character at No. 1–3 (1899–1904) was
as a centre of popular culture designed by Fyodor Lidval.
and entertainment was The multi-textured façade,
established in the year 1900 windows of contrasting shapes
with the inauguration of the and sizes, ornate iron bal-
Nicholas II People’s House. conies and fanciful carvings
This was where pantomime are the most typical features
artists, wild animal trainers, of this Russian version of Art Turreted House (1913–15),
magicians and circus acts Nouveau. The neighbouring Kamennoostrovskiy prospekt
Style Moderne in St Petersburg

In vogue throughout Europe Dominated by sinuous and
from the 1890s to the 1900s, undulating lines, with a predo-
Art Nouveau marked a break minance of floral and vegetal
with imitation of the past. The elements, even traditional
movement, known as Style forms such as doors and win-
Moderne in R Russia, began in the dows are broken up, distorted
decorative arts and was then Kshesinskaya or given unexpected curves.
reflected in architecture, Mansion railing detail In fin-de-siècle St Petersburg,
where it led to an abundance the Style Moderne flourished
of ornamental elements. Inspired by as the city underwent a building boom,
new industrial techniques, artists and particularly on Petrogradskaya. The city
architects made lavish use of natural became a showcase for the talents of
stone and brick, wrought iron, stucco, leading architects such as Fyodor Lidval
coloured glass and ceramic tiles. and Aleksandr von Gogen.
Kshesinskaya Mansion
reveals von Gogen’s
relatively severe version
of Style Moderne. Asym-
metrical in composition,
it is enlivened with
wrought iron and
glazed tiles (see p72).
Yeliseev’s is evidence of the skill of

Gavriil Baranovskiy, who made ex-
cellent use of industrial techniques
in the creation of large window
spaces. The rich exterior detailing is
matched by elegant shop-fittings
-
and chandeliers inside (see p109).
28 Bolshaya Zelenina ulitsa

is one of the most outstanding
examples of the use of stylized
animal and fish motifs and a
variety of surface decoration
techniques. Fyodor von Postel’s
1904 –5 apartment block is
reminiscent of the work of
his contemporary, the
Catalan architect Gaudí.
Singer House
(1910 –14) reveals
Pavel Syuzor’s use of
an unusually eclectic
mix of architectural
1–3 Kamennoostrovskiy pr styles. Ornate Style-
is the work of St Petersburg’s Moderne wrought-
master of Style Moderne, Fyodor iron balconies and
Lidval. Delicate details such as decorative wooden
floral and animal reliefs stand window frames com-
out against a background of bine with elements of
discreetly elongated proportions Renaissance and
and unusual window shapes. Baroque revivals.
countless buildings named in the balcony facing the square.

his honour. His apartment, The mansion, previously home
preserved as it was in his life- to a museum glorifying the
time, is an example of the October Revolution, now
near cult status awarded Party houses a Museum of Russian
leaders, with documents and Political History. On the first
photographs chronicling his floor the Bolshevik Party
political career, and a secretariat and Lenin’s office
touching array of memorabilia have been faithfully restored.
including his shooting attire Upstairs is a fascinating collec-
and favourite books. tion of memorabilia from the
revolutionary era, including
Communist posters, Nicholas
Kshesinskaya II coronation mugs and even
Mansion q a police file on Rasputin’s
murderr (see p121).
Особняк М. Кшесинской
Portrait of Sergey Kirov (1930s), in The museum keeps up to
the Kirov Museum
Osobnyak M Kshesinskoy date with temporary exhi-
Ulitsa Kuybysheva 4. Map 2 E3.
bitions covering recent
Kirov Museum 0 Tell 233 7052. q Gorkovskaya.
political history, taking in the
М/зей С. М. Кирова # 10am–6pm Fri–Wed. & 8
theory and consequences of
Muzey S M Kirova English.
perestroika and the policies
of contemporary parties.
Kamennoostrovskiy prospekt 26–28, This remarkable example of
4th floor. Map 2 D1. Tell 346 0217, Style-Moderne architecture
346 0289. q Petrogradskaya. # was commissioned for prima
11am–6pm Thu–Tue. & 8 English. ballerina Matilda Kshesinskaya.
www.spbmuseum.ru Designed in 1904 by the court
architect, A von Gogen, the
From 1926–36 this flat was building is almost playfully
home to one of Stalin’s asymmetric with a single,
closest political associates, octagonal tower. Most eye-
Sergey Kirov. As the charis- catching of all are the many
matic first Secretary of the contrasting building materials
Leningrad Communist Party, with bands of pink and grey
Kirov soon gained national granite, cream-coloured bricks,
importance. His increasing delicately ornamented iron
popularity led Stalin to see railings and majolica tiles.
in him a potential rival. On The most impressive interior MATILDA
1 December 1934, Kirov was is the splendid recital hall with
KSHESINSKAYA
gunned down at his office its pillared archway and palms.
at the Smolnyy Institute (see Nearby, the Kshesinskaya One of the finest prima
p128) by Leonid Nikolaev, a memorial room has some of ballerinas ever to grace
party malcontent. Stalin used the dancer’s possessions, inclu- the stage of the Mariinskiy
the assassination as an excuse ding sketches of Nicholas II. Theatre (see p119), Matilda
to launch the Great Purges In March 1917 the mansion Kshesinskaya (1872– 2 1971)
(see p27), although most histo- was commandeered by the graduated from the
rians believe Stalin himself Bolsheviks and became their Imperial Ballet School
was behind Kirov’s murder. headquarters and, on Lenin’s ((see p118) in 1890. She
Kirov acquired the status of return to Russia (see p126), was equally famous for
a martyr after his death, with he addressed the crowds from her celebrated affair with
the tsarevich, later Tsar
Nicholas II, which began
soon after she graduated.
Kshesinskaya emigrated to
Paris in 1920 where she
married the Grand Duke
Andrey Vladimirovich,
another member of the
imperial family and the
fatherof her 11-year old
son. It was in Paris that
she wrote her controver-
sial memoirs, Dancing in
St Petersburg, which tells
the tale of her affair with
the last Russian tsar.
A von Gogen’s elegant recital hall in the Kshesinskaya Mansion
The historic cruiser Aurora (1900), moored in front of the Neo-Baroque Nakhimov Naval Academy (1912)
Cruiser Aurora w the construction of his new derived from the Church of
Крейсер Аврора cityy (see pp20–21). Catherine the Trinity (built in 1710;
the Great, ever keen to glorify demolished 1930s) in Trinity
Kreyser Avrora
Peter, had a protective brick Square, which formed the
Petrogradskaya naberezhnaya 4. shell erected round the cabin. nucleus of the city’s merchant
Map 2 F3. Tell 230 8440. v 6. # There are only two rooms, quarter. Despite having no
10:30am–4pm Tue–Thu, Sat & Sun. both with period furnishings, direct links to the mainland
8 English, German or French, for a and a hallway which doubled until the early 20th century, the
fee. Phone to book. as a bedroom. Among Peter’s area flourished with shops, a
personal possessions are a printing house and the city’s
According to the annals of compass, frock coat and his first stock exchange.
the Revolution, at 9:40pm on rowing boat. In the 1905 Revolution (see
25 October 1917, the cruiser Adorning the steps outside p26) the square witnessed
Aurora signalled the storming are two statues of the Shih Tze one of the worst massacres
of the Winter Palace (see frog-lions, brought from of “Bloody Sunday” when 48
p28), by firing a single blank Manchuria during the Russo- workers were killed by gov-
round from its bow gun. Japanese War (1904–5). ernment troops. During the
The ship entered active Communist era, the square
service in 1903. It was later became known as ploshchad
converted into a training ship Trinity Square r Revolyutsii, commemorating
and at the start of the Siege Тройцкая площадь those who had lost their lives.
of Leningrad (see p27) it was Troitskaya ploshchad From the square, across the
sunk to protect it from German widest point of the Neva, the
forces. The ship was raised in Map 2 E3. q Gorkovskaya. @ 46. Style-Moderne Trinity Bridge
1944, 950 days later, and has v 2, 6, 40. (see p35) stretches nearly
been a museum since 1956. 600 m (1,970 ft). Its construc-
The famous gun, bell and the Throughout the early 18th tion led to a building boom on
crew’s quarters can be viewed, century, the whole of Petro- Petrogradskaya (see p65) and
along with an exhibition on gradskaya was known as its completion in 1903 coinci-
the history of the Aurora. Trinity Island. The name was ded with the city’s bicentenary.
Cabin of Peter the

Great e
Музей-домик Петра І
Muzey-domik Petra I
Petrovskaya naberezhnaya 6. Map

2 F3. Tell 232 4576, 314 0374.
q Gorkovskaya. # 10am–6pm
Wed–Sun, 10am–5pm Mon. ¢ last
Mon of each month. & 7
This pine-log cabin was built

for Peter the Great by his
soldier-carpenters in just three
days in 1703. Peter lived here
for six years while overseeing The ornate Trinity Bridge, crossing the Neva from Trinity Square
PALACE EMBANKMENT
I n terms of sheer scale and gran-
deur, St Petersburg’s magnificent
south waterfront has few equals.
Its formidable granite quays,
stretching over 2 km (1 mile) from
in honour of the Decembrist rebels
who rose up against the tsarist
regime in 1825. In Palace Square,
Rastrelli’s Winter Palace (part of the
Hermitage) evokes the opulence of
the Senate building in the west to Imperial Russia while the Eternal
Peter the Great’s Summer Palace in Flame, flickering in the Field of
the east, and the surrounding area Mars, is a more sombre reminder
of stately aristocratic palaces and of revolutionary sacrifice.
ornamental canal bridges are Dominating St Petersburg’s
Alexander
justly famous worldwide. Column, skyline are the magnificent
Every aspect of the city’s history Palace Square dome of St Isaac’s Cathedral and
is juxtaposed in this rich area. the gilded spire of the Admiralty.
Falconet’s statue of Peter the Great, Some of the best views can be appre-
the Bronze Horseman, is an eloquent ciated by making a boat trip along
testimony to imperial ambition while the waterways (see pp226–7), or by
the square in which it stands is named strolling through the Summer Gardens.
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Palaces and Gardens Streets and Squares
Marble Palace r Decembrists’ Square 2
Summer Garden y Field of Mars t
Summer Palace u Malaya Morskaya Ulitsa 8
Millionaires’ Street e
Museums Palace Square q
The Hermitagee pp84–93 w St Isaac’s Square 6
Historical Buildings and Hotels and Cafés
Monuments Astoria Hotel 7 -FUOJZTBE
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The golden dome of St Isaac’s Cathedral above elegant façades along the Neva
Street-by-Stree
Th
is t
cen
is t
thi
qu
Detail from the frieze on afte
the Admiralty gate tower Pete
this
used as a market place in
is now at the heart of an
and statues of historical
Among them are the Ad
Palace and the Bronze H
The Bronze Horseman

Etienne Falconet’s magnif
of Peter the Great, his hor
ling the serpent of treason
the spirit of the city’s unco
mising and wilful founde
Decembrists’ Square
Dominating the western s
square are Carlo Rossi’s m
mental Senate and Synod
linked by a triumphal arc
. St Isaac’s
Cathedral
The magnificent
golden dome of the
cathedral is visible
all across the city.
100kg (220lb) of
gold leaf were
needed to cover the
dome’s surface 5
PA L A C E E M B A N K M E N T 77
P
PETROG
GRADSKAYA
GR
va
Ne
GOSTINYY
PALA
ACE DVOR
EMBANK
KMENT
LOCATOR MAP
See Street Finder maps 2, 5 & 6
The Admiralty
Sculptures and reliefs,
celebrating the power of
Russia’s navy, decorate the
Admiralty’s façade. The arch-
way of the main entrance is
framed by nymphs carrying
globes on their shoulders 1
rince
Rostovskiy
is now a STAR SIGHT
stitute. The
ront of the . St Isaac’s Cathedral
e by Italian
Paolo Triscorni.
leterre Hotel
elegant ground floor hallway of the Angleterre
ell (see p174) reflects the major refurbishment
ertaken in the early 1990s. Now under new
nagement, the hotel enjoys an enviable
tion in the heart of the city 7
Isaac’s Square
Overlooking the
square is Pyotr
Klodt’s statue of
Tsar Nicholas I.
he reliefs on the
pedestal depict
isodes from his
eign. Tellingly,
o of them show
the suppression
of rebellions 6
The Admiralty 1 exiled to Siberia, thus

Адмиралтейство effectively ending
Admiralteystvo Russia’s first revolution.
R
The imposing Neo-
Admiralteyskaya naberezhnaya 2. Classical buildings that
Map 5 C1 @ 7, 10, K-129, K-147. command the western
 1, 5, 7, 10, 17, 22. side of Decembrists’
Square were intended
Having founded a city and to harmonize with the
built a fortress, Peter the Admiralty. Designed
Great’s next priority was to by Carlo Rossi between
create a Russian navy to gua- 1829–34, they were
rantee access to the sea and the headquarters of two
dominance over Sweden. important institutions
The Admiralty began life as which were originally
a fortified shipyard built on created by Peter the
this site between 1704–11. Two
T Great: the Supreme
years later, some 10,000 men Court, or Senate, and
were employed in building the Holy Synod which
the first battleships of the was responsible for
embryonic Russian navy. the administration of
One of RRussia’s most inspired the Orthodox Church.
architects, Andrey Zakharov, Tower and spire of the Admiralty (1806–23) The two buildings,
began to rebuild the Admiralty which now house
in 1806. The remarkable façade Decembrists’ historical archives, are linked
is 407 m (1,335 ft) in length to each other by a triumphal
and is adorned with an abun- Square 2 arch supported by Corinthian
dance of sculptures and reliefs Площадь Декабристов columns and decorated with
which document the glory of Ploshchad Dekabristov a Neo-Classical frieze and a
the Russian fleet. Zakharov plethora of
retained some of the original Map 5 C1. @ 3, 10, 22, 27. statuary.
features, including the central  5, 22.
gate tower and spire which he The name of this square
recast in Neo-Classical style alludes to the momentous
with columned porticos and event which took place here
pavilions. The heightened spire on 14 December 1825 (see
was gilded and topped with a p23). During the inauguration
model frigate. This has become of Nicholas I, Guards officers
a symbol of the city, just like intent on imposing a constitu-
the trumpet-blowing pair of tional monarchy attempted to
angels on the portals of the stage a coup d’état in the
façade overlooking the Neva. square. After a confused stand-
In the 1840s, shipbuilding off which lasted several hours,
was moved downstream and the rebel forces were routed
the Admiralty was handed over with grapeshot by the new
to the Russian navy. It has tsar and loyalist troops. Five The Bronze Horseman (1766–78)
been occupied by the Naval of the ringleaders were later
Engineering School since 1925. executed and 121 others
The Bronze
THE BRONZE HORSEMAN BY PUSHKIN Horseman 3
Медный Всадник
The famous statue of Peter
Mednyy Vsadnik
the Great is brought to life
in Alexander Pushkin’s
Ploshchad Dekabristov. Map 5 C1.
epic poem The Bronze
@ 3, 10, 22, 27.  5, 22.
Horseman (1833). In this
haunting vision of the The magnificent equestrian
Great Flood of 1824 (see statue of Peter the Great was
p37), the hero is pursued unveiled in Decembrists’
through the mist-shrouded Square in 1782, as a tribute
streets by the terrifying from Catherine the Great. The
bronze statue. Pushkin’s statue is known as the Bronze
1956 stamp of Pushkin and the words evoke the domi- Horseman after Pushkin’s
statue that inspired his poem neering and implacable famous poem. A French sculp-
will for which the tsar was tor, Etienne Falconet, spent
renowned: “How terrible he was in the surrounding gloom! more than 12 years over-
… what strength was in him! And in that steed, what fire!” seeing this ambitious project.
The pedestal alone weighs
1,625 tonnes and was hewn

from a single block of granite,
which was hauled from the
Gulf of Finland. It bears the
simple inscription “To Peter I
from Catherine II” in Latin
and Russian.
R A serpent, symbol-
izing treason, is crushed
beneath the horse’s hooves.
Newlyweds often pose for
photographs under the statue
which is meant to bring luck.
Horseguards’
Manège 4
Конногвардейский манеж
Konnogvardeyskiy manezh St Isaac’s Cathedral, statue of St Nicholas I and the Astoria, St Isaac’s Square
Isaakievskaya ploshchad 1. Map 5 C2. although a few of its earlier Astoria Hotel 7
Tell 312 2243, 571 4157 (ticket buildings date from the 18th Гостиница Астория
office). # variable. @ 3, 22, 27. century. The monument to Gostinitsa Astoriya
 5, 22. & - Nicholas I at its centre was
also designed by Montferrand. Bolshaya Morskaya ulitsa 39. Map 6
The enormous indoor riding Erected in 1859 and sculpted D2. Tell 313 5757. @ 3, 10, 22, 27,
school of the Life Guards’ by Pyotr Klodt, it depicts the K-169, K-180, K-190, K-252, K-289.
Mounted Regiment was built tsar in the uniform of one of  5, 22. See Where to Stay p180.
by Giacomo Quarenghi in Russia’s most prestigious regi-
1804–7 to resemble a Roman ments, the Kavalergardskiy Now one of St Petersburg’s
basilica. Two clues to the guards. The pedestal is em- leading hotels, the seven-
building’s original function are bellished with allegorical storey Astoria was designed
the dynamic frieze of a horse sculptures of his daughters and by Fyodor Lidval in the Style
race beneath the pediment and his wife who represent Faith, Moderne (see p71) in 1910–12.
the statues on either side of the Wisdom, Justice and Might. American writer, John Reed,
portico. The statues of the un- On the western side of the author of the famous eyewit-
clad twin sons of Zeus reining square at No. 9, the Myatlev ness account of the Revolution
in wild horses are copies from House is a Neo-Classical man- Ten Days that Shook the World,
the Quirinale Palace in Rome. sion, dating from the 1760s, was staying here when the
The Holy Synod, scandalized which belonged to one of Bolsheviks seized power.
by this display of nakedness Russia’s most illustrious fami- In 1925, the poet Sergey
so near to St Isaac’s Cathedral, lies. The French encyclopedist, Y Yesenin, husband of Isadora
ordered their removal. The Denis Diderot, stayed here in Duncan, hanged himself in
statues were re-erected in 1954. 1773–4 following an invitation the annexe, after daubing the
Next to the manège, which from Catherine the Great. In walls of his room with a
is now used as an exhibition the 1920s it became the pre- farewell verse in his blood
hall, are two marble pillars mises of the State Institute of “To die is not new – but
surmounted by bronze angels Artistic Culture where some neither is it new to be alive”.
cast in Berlin, which were of Russia’s most influential The hotel’s banqueting hall
sent over as a gift in 1840. avant-garde artists, including was to be the venue for Hitler’s
Kazimir Malevich and Vladimir prematurely planned victory
Tatlin (see p107), worked. celebration, so sure was he that
St Isaac’s Cathedral 5 The forbidding granite-faced he would conquer the city.
building alongside is
See pp80–81. the former German
embassy, designed
in 1911–12 by the
St Isaac’s Square 6 German architect,
Исаакиевская площадь Peter Behrens.
Issakievskaya ploshchad Across the 100-m
(330-ft) wide Siniy
Map 5 C2. @ 3, 10, 22, 27. most (Blue Bridge),
 5, 22. which was the site
of a serf market
Dominated by Auguste de until 1861, the
Montferrand’s majestic Mariinskiy Palace
St Isaac’s Cathedral, this im- (see p77) dominates
pressive square was created the southern end Restored Style-Moderne foyer in the Astoria
during the reign of Nicholas I, of the square. Hotel, on the eastern edge of St Isaac’s Square
St Isaac’s Cathedral 5
Исаакиевский собор
Isaakievskiy sobor
St Isaac’s, one of the world’s largest cathe-

drals, was designed in 1818 by the then
unknown architect Auguste de Montferrand.
The construction of the colossal building
was a major engineering feat. Thousands
of wooden piles were sunk into the marshy
ground to support its weight of 300,000 The Dome
tonnes and 48 huge columns were hauled From the dome there are panoramic views
into place. The cathedral opened in 1858 but over the city which include the Admiralty
was designated a museum of atheism during (see p78) and the Hermitagee (see pp84–
the Soviet era. Officially still a museum 93). Adorning the gilded dome are
today, the church is filled with hundreds angels sculpted by Josef Hermann.
of impressive 19th-century works of art.
The mosaic icons on the

iconostasis are by Bryullov,
Neff and Zhivago.
Angels with Torch

Ivan Vitali created many of the cathe-
dral’s sculptures, including the pairs
of angels supporting gas torches which
crown the four attic corners.
This chapel honours Alexander Nevsky

who defeated the Swedes in 1240 (see p17).
The north
pediment is orna-
mented with a bronze
relief (1842–4) of the
Resurrection designed
by François Lemaire.
Exit
. Iconostasis
Malachite and lapis St Catherine’s Chapel
Three rows of icons surround the lazuli columns frame has an exquisite white
royal doors through which a stained-
d the iconostasis. About marble iconostasis,
glass window (1843) is visible. Above 16,000 kg (35,280 lbs) crowned by a sculpted
the doors is Pyotr Klodt’s gilded of malachite decorate Resurrection (1850–4)
sculpture, Christ in Majesty (1859). the cathedral. by Nikolay Pimenov.
The silver dove VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

(1850) hanging in
the cupola is a Isaakievskaya ploshchad. Map 5
symbol of the C2. Tell 315 9732. q Nevskiy
Holy Spirit. Prospekt, Sadovaya. @ 3, 10, 22,
27, K-169, K-180, K-190, K-252,
K-289.  5, 22. # 10am–8pm
Thu–Tue (Oct–Apr: 11am–7pm).
& 8 =  religious festivals.
. Ceiling Painting
The celestial Virgin in Majesty
by Karl Bryullovv (see p105), dating
to 1847, covers an area of 816 sq m
(8,780 sq ft). It is ringed by exuberant
gilded stucco mouldings and white marble.
Portraits of apostles Statue of

and evangelists St Matthew
The entrance is
through the side
doors on
St Isaac’s
Square.
South Doors
Three great doors
of oak and bronze
(1841–6), weighing
20 tonnes, are
decorated with
carved reliefs by
Ivan Vitali. The
exteriors of the
doors show scenes
from the life of
Christ and saints,
including Alexander
Nevskyy (see p17).
The relief of
St Isaac blessing
the Emperor Theodosius
and his wife Flaccilla is by
Ivan Vitali. On the extreme left,
Montferrand is depicted clutching
a model of his cathedral.
The walls are

adorned with 14 Red granite columns, STAR SIGHTS
coloured marbles each weighing 114
and 43 other tonnes, were . Iconostasis
types of semi- The vast interior transported from
precious stones covers 4,000 sq m Finland by specially . Ceiling Painting
and minerals. (43,000 sq ft). constructed ships.
House of Fabergé 9
Дом Фаберже
Dom Faberzhe
Bolshaya Morskaya ulitsa 24.

Map 6 D1. ¢ to public. @ 3, 22,
27.  5, 22.
The world-famous Fabergé

jeweller’s was established in
Bolshaya Morskaya ulitsa in
1842 by Gustav Fabergé, of
French Huguenot origin. It was
not until the 1880s that his sons
Carl and Agathon abandoned
conventional jewellery-making
for intricate and exquisitely
crafted objets d’artt of a highly
innovative design. Most fam-
ous of all their works are the
imaginatively designed Easter
eggs made for the tsars.
In 1900 Carl moved the
business from No. 16–18 into
purpose-built premises at No.
24, where it remained until
the Revolution. The exterior,
designed by his relative, Karl
Schmidt, has striking triangular
roof gables and multi-textured
Malaya Morskaya ulitsa with No. 13 in the middle stonework. The original show-
room, with its squat red granite
Malaya Morskaya committed suicide, due to pillars, was on the ground
pressure from Conservatory floor. It is still a jeweller’s, but
Ulitsa 8 colleagues wishing to avoid a with no connection to Fabergé.
Малая Морская у лица scandal after Tchaikovsky’s In the workshops above, boy
Malaya Morskaya ulitsa alleged homosexual affair. apprentices were trained by
The house at No. 23 was master craftsmen in the arts
Map 6 D1. @ 3, 10, 22, 27. occupied by the novelist of enamelling, engraving,
 5, 22. Fyodor Dostoevsky (see p123) stone cutting and jewelling.
from 1848–9. It was here that In 1996, the 150th anniver-
Malaya Morskaya Ulitsa is he was arrested and charged sary of Carl Fabergé’s birth was
sometimes still referred to as with political conspiracy for marked by the unveiling of a
ulitsa Gogolya after the great his participation in the memorial plaque at No. 24
prose-writer, Nikolai Gogol socialist Petrashevsky circle and of a monument, designed
(1809–52) who lived (see p123). Today, the street by the sculptor Leonid Aristov
at No. 17 from 1833–6. It was manages to exude a 19th- and others, on the corner of
here that Gogol wrote The century feel despite the many Zanevskiy prospekt and
Diary of a Madman and The busy shops and businesses. prospekt Energetikov.
Nose, two biting satires on the
archetypal Petersburg bureau-
crat “drowned by the trivial, FABERGE EGGS
meaningless labours at which In 1885 Alexander III commissioned the
he spends his useless life”. Fabergé brothers to create an Easter egg for
Gogol’s bitingly humorous, Tsarina Maria Fyodorovna. Inside the shell
fantastical and grotesque of gold and white enamel was a beautifully
tales reveal a nightmarish sculpted golden hen. A tradition was
and deeply pessimistic established and, by the Revolution, there
view of modern urban life. were 54 Fabergé Easter eggs, no two of
The composer, Pyotr which were alike. The pièce de résistance
T
Tchaikovsky (see p42), died is the Siberian Railway Egg, commissioned
in the top floor apartment by Nicholas II in 1900. The Bonbonnière
of No. 13 shortly after the Egg was commissioned by Kelch, a
completion of his Pathétique wealthy industrialist, for his wife Varvara in
symphony in November 1893. 1903. Regrettably, the only eggs on public
Officially he was supposed to The Kelch Bon- display in Russia today are in the State
have died of cholera, but it is bonnière Egg Armoury of the Kremlin in Moscow.
commonly believed that he
The resplendant square is the

DEATH OF A POET work of the inspired architect
In November 1836 Pushkin Carlo Rossi (see
received an anonymous letter p110). Facing the
which awarded him the title Winter Palace on its
of “Grand Master of the Most southern side is Rossi’s
Serene Order of Cuckolds”. magnificent General
It had been sent by Georges Staff Building (1819–
d’Anthès, a ne’er-do-well 29), the headquarters
cavalry officer who for some for the Russian army.
time had been making Rossi demolished an
overtures towards Pushkin’s entire row of houses
wife, the beauty and socialite to make room for it.
Natalya Goncharova. Pushkin A Naumov’s painting of Pushkin, The two graceful,
challenged d’Anthès to a duel fatally wounded after his duel curving wings (the eastern
and, on the afternoon of 27 one now a branch of the
January 1837, he met his opponent in snow-bound woodland Hermitage) are connected by
to the north of the city. D’Anthès fired first and Pushkin was a double arch leading to
mortally wounded. He died two days later, aged 38. D’Anthès Bolshaya Morskaya ulitsa. The
was later reduced to the ranks and banished from Russia. arch is crowned by a sculpture
of Victory in her chariot (1829),
by Stepan Pimenov and Vasiliy
Palace Square q Demut-Malinovskiy. Forming
Дворцовая площадЬ the eastern side of this striking
Dvortsovaya ploshchad architectural ensemble is the
Guards Headquarters, designed
Map 6 D1 @ 7, 10, K-47, K-128, by Aleksandr Bryullov in
K-129, K-147, K-187, K-252. 1837–43. To the west lies the
 1, 7, 10. Admiralty (see p78).
The Alexander Column in
Palace Square has played a the centre of the square is
unique role in Russian dedicated to Tsar Alexander I
history. Before the Revolution for his role in the triumph over
the square was the setting for Napoleon (see pp22–3). On
colourful military parades, the pedestal are inscribed the
often led by the tsar on horse- words “To Alexander I, from
Sign outside the Literary Café back. In January 1905, it was a grateful Russia”. The red
the scene of the massacre of granite pillar is balanced by
Literaryy Café 0 “Bloody Sunday” (see p26) its 600-tonne weight, making it
Литературное кафе when gathered troops fired on the largest free-standing
Literaturnoe kafe thousands of unarmed demon- monument in the world. The
strators. Then, on 7 November column was designed by
Nevskiy prospekt 18. Map 6 E1. 1917, Lenin’s Bolshevik sup- Auguste de Montferrand in
Tell 312 6057. # 11am–11pm. porters secured the Revolution 1829 and it took 2,400 soldiers
q Nevskiy Prospekt. 7 by attacking the Winter Palace and workmen two years to
See Restaurants and Cafés p180. (see pp28–9) from the square, hew and transport the granite.
as well as its west side. It is It was erected in 1830–34.
Also known as the Café Wulf still a favourite venue for poli- The column is topped by a
et Beranger after its original tical meetings and events such bronze angel, and together
owners, this café is famous as rock concerts (see p51). they stand 47 m (154 ft) high.
for its association with
Alexander Pushkin, Russia’s
greatest poet (see p43). It was
here that Pushkin met his
second, Konstantin Danzas,
before setting out for his ill-
fated duel with Baron d’Anthès.
The café was a popular haunt
for St Petersburg writers from
its beginning, frequented by
Fyodor Dostoevsky and the
poet Mikhail Lermontov
(1814–41), among others.
Despite its hallowed literary
importance and elegant setting,
in Vasiliy Stasov’s handsome
building of 1815, the café itself
does not merit the high prices. The Alexander Column and General Staff Building in Palace Square
The Hermitage w
Эрмитаж The New Hermitage
Ermitazh (1839–51) was
designed by Leo von
One of the most famous museums in the world, the Hermitage Klenze to form a
coherent part of the
occupies a grand ensemble of buildings. The most impressive is Large Hermitage. It
the Winter Palace (see pp92–3), to which Catherine the Great is the only purpose-
added the more intimate Small Hermitage. In 1771–87, she built built museum within
the Large Hermitage to house her growing collection of art. The the whole complex.
Theatre was built in 1785–7, the New Hermitage in 1839–51.
The New and Large Hermitages were opened by Nicholas I in
1852 as a public museum. From 1918 to 1939 the Winter Palace Court
was slowly incorporated into the museum ensemble. In the late ministries
1990s the majestic, Neo-Classical General Staff Building was added. were located
Mid and late 19th-century collections are gradually moving there. here until
the 1880s.
Atlantes
Ten 5-m (16-ft) tall
granite Atlantes hold up
what was the public
entrance to the Hermitage
museum from 1852 until
after the Revolution.
A gallery spanning the

The Winter Canal canal connects the Theatre
(see p36) to the Large Hermitage and
forms the theatre foyer.
During Catherine s reign, there Velten to house

were regular performances held in Catherine’s
Quarenghi’s theatre. Today it hosts paintings.
exhibitions and concertss (see p202).
. Raphael Loggias
Catherine was so impressed by engravings
of Raphael’s frescoes in the Vatican that in
1787 she commissioned copies to be made
on canvas. Small alterations were made,
such as replacing the Pope’s coat of arms
with the Romanov two-headed eagle.
T H E H E R M I T A G E 85
Hanging Gardens VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

This unusual raised garden
is decorated with statues Dvortsovaya nab 30–8. Map 2
and fountains. During the D5. Tell 710 9079. @ 7,10,
T128, T129, T228, K-147, K-209.
d (see p27)
Siege of Leningrad
 1, 7, 10. # 10:30am–6pm
Hermitage curators grew Tue– Sat; 10.30am–5pm Sun.
vegetables here. Last adm 1 hr before closing. &
8 English (571 8446 to book).
7=-
Winter Palace Façade

Rastrelli embellished the palace
façades with 400 columns and
The Small Hermitage (1764–75),
16 different window designs.
by Vallin de la Mothe and
Yuriy Velten, served as
Catherine’s retreat from the STAR SIGHTS
bustle of the court.
. Winter Palace State
Palace
Square
Rooms
Main entrance
General
via courtyard . Pavilion Hall
Staff
Building . Raphael Loggias
River Neva
(1754–62) was the

official residence of
the Imperial family
until the Revolution.
. Pavilion Hall (1850–8)

Andrey Stakenschneider’s
striking white marble
and gold hall replaced
Catherine’s original
interior. It houses . Winter Palace State Rooms
Englishman James Cox’s The tsars spared no expense
famous Peacock Clock in decorating rooms such as
(1772), which was once the Hall of St George. These
owned by Catherine’s rooms were not intended for
secret husband, Prince private life, but were used for
Grigory Potemkin. state ceremonies.
The Hermitage Collections The Knights’ Hall (1842–51)

is used for displays of
Catherine the Great purchased some of Western Europe’s best armour and weapons
collections between 1764 and 1774, acquiring over 2,500 paintings, from the former
10,000 carved gems, 10,000 drawings and a vast amount of silver Imperial arsenal.
and porcelain with which to adorn her palaces. None of her Stairs to
successors matched the quantity of her remarkable purchases. ground
floor
After the Revolution, the nationalization of both royal and private
property brought more paintings and works of applied art,
making the Hermitage one of the world’s leading museums.
Skylight Rooms
Raphael Loggias (see p84)
First Floor
The Gallery of Ancient

Painting (1842–51) is
decorated with scenes from
ancient literature. It houses a
superb display of 19th-
century European
sculpture.
The Litta Madonna (c.1491)
One of two works by Leonardo Ground Floor
da Vinci in the museum, this
masterpiece was admired by European Gold
his contemporaries and was Collection m
frequently copied.
STAR EXHIBITS
. Abraham’s Sacrifice
by Rembrandt
. Ea Haere Ia Oe
m
by Gauguin The
=
Hall of
. La Danse by Matisse Twenty =
Columns -
(1842–51) is =
GALLERY GUIDE painted in
Individual visitors enter via m
Etruscan style.
Palace Square, then cross the -
main courtyard; group tours use
other entrances by arrangement.
Start with the interiors of the =
Winter Palace state rooms on the
first floor to get an overview of the
museum. 19th- and 20th-century d
European Art is best reached by d
either of the staircases on the
Palace Square side of the Winter
Palace. Note collections may move.
Main
. Abraham’s Sacrifice (1635) entrance
In the 1630s Rembrandt was
painting religious scenes in a High
Baroque style, using dramatic Entrance for tours
and striking gestures rather than and guided groups
detail to convey his message.
Stairs to
Second first floor
Floor The Numismatic
Collection consists of
more than 900,000
coins and medals.
Only part of it is
on display in
= temporary
exhibitions.
. Ea Haere Ia Oe (1893)
This is one of the first paintings
by Paul Gauguin after he had
left France for Tahiti. His desire
Stairs to to escape convention and
first floor artificiality found expression in
his innovative use of primitive
art as inspiration.
Stairs to
Numismatic
collection
. La Danse (1910)
d
Henri Matisse used strong tones of three
Stairs to colours – blue, green and red – to heighten
second floor, the drama and concentration of the figures,
Numismatic
Collection totally lost in their dance.
only
KEY TO FLOORPLAN
Prehistoric: Rooms 11–24, 26, 33
Classical: 102, 107–117, 121,

127–131
Oriental: 34–47, 55–66, 69, 100,

351–371, 381–397
Russian: 147–153, 155–189, 190-198,

204, 260, 269–271, 282, 304–307
Italian and Spanish: 207–223,

226–242
Flemish, Dutch and German: 243,

245–254, 258–259, 261–268
French and English: 272–281,

Greek and Statue of Voltaire (1781) 283–287, 290–302
Oriental Gold Catherine the Great corres-
collection 19th- and 20th-century European:
ponded with Voltaire for over 314–325, 328–350
15 years. She commissioned
Temporary exhibition space
The Winter Palace state
Jean-Antoine Houdon’s
rooms (see pp92–3) contain marble statue, in which the Non-exhibition space
magnificent Russian and French writer is dressed as a No access

European objets d’art. Greek philosopher.
Exploring the Hermitage Collections 1720, to Roman portrait busts.

The smaller objects, however,
It is impossible to absorb the Hermitage’s vast, encyclo- are the real pride and joy of
pedic collection in one or even two visits. Whether it the Classical department.
be Scythian gold, antique vases and cameos, or Iranian The collection of red-figured
silver, every room has something to capture the eye. The Attic vases of the 6th–4th
centuries BC is unequalled any-
furniture, applied art, portraits and rich clothing of the where in the world. Exquisitely
imperial family went to make up the Russian section, proportioned and with a
which also includes the superb state rooms. The collec- lustrous shine, they are deco-
tion of European paintings was put together largely rated with scenes of libation,
according to the personal taste of the imperial family episodes from the Trojan War,
while most of the 19th- and 20th-century European art, and in one case a famous
notably the Impressionists, Matisse and Picasso, came image of the sighting of the
from private collections after the Revolution. first swallow (c.510 BC).
In the 4th and 3rd centuries
BC, Tanagra was the centre for
the production of small, ele-
gant terracotta figurines. They
were discovered in the 19th
century and became so pop-
ular that fakes were produced
on a grand scale. The Russian
ambassador in Athens, Pyotr
Saburov, put his collection
together in the 1880s before
the copies appeared, making
it unusually valuable.
Catherine the Great’s true
Scythian gold stag dating passion was for carved gems,
from 7th–6th century BC which she bought en masse. In
just ten years, she purchased
Excavations in the Altai, some 10,000 pieces. The largest
PREHISTORIC ART notably at Pazyryk in 1927–49, and most stunning gem in the
uncovered burials nearly 2,500 Classical collection, however,
Prehistoric artifacts found all years old. Many perishable is the Gonzaga Cameo, which
over the former Russian materials were preserved by was presented by Napoleon’s
Empire include pots, arrow the frozen land, including ex-wife Josephine Beauharnais
heads and sculptures from textiles, a burial cart and even to Tsar Alexander I in 1814.
Palaeolithic sites, which date a man’s heavily tattooed skin. The Greek and Oriental Gold
back nearly 24,000 years, and Collection contains some items
rich gold items from the time of 5th-century gold jewellery
of the Scythian nomads living made by Athenian craftsmen.
in the 7th–3rd centuries BC. They used a filigree technique
Peter the Great’s famous for working gold so finely that
Siberian collection of delicate the detail can only be seen
gold work includes Scythian through a magnifying glass.
animal-style brooches, sword
handles and buckles. Objects
continued to be discovered in ORIENTAL ART
Siberia and in 1897 a large
stylized stag, which once deco- This selection of artifacts
rated an iron shield, was found covers a wide range of cul-
at Kostromskaya. This and tures; from ancient Egypt and
other gold pieces are held in Assyria, through Byzantium,
the European Gold Collection India, Iran, China, Japan and
(for which a separate ticket is the marvels of Uzbekistan and
required). Copies are on Gonzaga Cameo (285–246 BC), Tajikistan. The most complete
display in the Scythian rooms. made in Alexandria sections are those where
Greek masters also worked excavations were conducted
for the Scythians, and from by the Hermitage, mainly in
the Dnepr region came a late CLASSICAL ART China and Mongolia before
5th-century comb decorated the Revolution, and in Central
with amazingly naturalistic The large number of Graeco- Asia during the Soviet period.
figures of Scythians fighting, Roman marble sculptures Dating back to the 19th
as well as the late 4th-century range from the famous Tauride century BC, at the time of the
Chertomlyk Vase with scenes Venus of the 3rd century BC, Middle Kingdom, is a seated
depicting animal taming. acquired by Peter the Great in porphyry portrait of Pharaoh
Excavations and expeditions

to Central Asia have produced
carpets, bronzes and wonderful
glazed tiles. Uzbekistan and
Tajikistan revealed marvellous
frescoes in complexes of 8th-
century buildings at Varaksha,
Adjina-Tepe and Pendzhikent.
Rare Mughal jewelled vessels,
Iranian weapons and Chinese
gold objects are displayed
in the Greek and Oriental
Gold Collection.
RUSSIAN ART
Universal sundial (1714–19) from
Although major Russian Peter the Great’s collection
8th-century fresco of a wounded works of art were transferred
warrior from Tajikistan to the Russian Museum (see craftsmen and artists to train
pp104–107) in 1898, every- locals. Peter studied with them
Amenemhet III. The star of thing else that belonged to the and his fascination for practical
the Egyptian collection is an imperial family was national- things is reflected in his large
extremely rare, small, wooden ized after the Revolution. This collection of sundials, instru-
statue of a standing man from included anything from official ments and wood-turning lathes
the 15th century BC. portraits and thrones to looking which includes the universal
From the Far East – Japan, glasses and petticoats. Over sundial by Master John Rowley.
India, Indonesia, China and 300 items of apparel belong- A bust by Bartolomeo Carlo
Mongolia – comes an array of ing to Peter the Great alone Rastrelli (1723–30), however,
objects ranging from Buddhist survive. Later, the department portrays Peter as the mighty
sculptures and fabrics to a dis- also began acquiring medieval and cruel emperor.
play of tiny netsukes (ivory Russian art, including icons Russian artists were soon
toggles). Excavations at the and church utensils. combining traditional art forms
cave temple of the Thousand The tsars from Peter the with European skills to create
Buddhas near Dun Huan in Great onwards invited foreign such intricate marvels as the
western China revealed 6th– openwork walrus ivory vase
10th-century icons, wall paint- by Nikolay Vereshchagin
ings and plaster sculptures, (1798), and the large silver
including the lions that once sarcophagus and memorial
guarded the cave. During the to Alexander Nevsky, truly
13th-century Mongol invasion, Russian in scale (1747–52).
the town of Khara-Khoto was The gunsmiths of Tula (south
destroyed and taken over by of Moscow) perfected their
the surrounding desert. The technique to such an extent
sand preserved many usually that they began producing
perishable objects, from 12th- unique furniture in steel inlaid
century silks to woodcuts. with gilded bronze, such as
From Byzantium come early the decorative, Empire-style
secular items, such as icons, dressing table set (1801).
religious utensils and a 5th- The state interiors (see
century ivory diptych with pp92–3) are the pride of the
scenes from a Roman circus. Russian department, revealing
Iran produced a large num- the work of Russian and
ber of silver and bronze foreign craftsmen from the
vessels, many of which were mid-18th to the early 20th cen-
taken by medieval traders to tury. The discovery of large
Siberia and the Urals where deposits of coloured stones
they were rediscovered by in the Urals inspired Russian
specialists in the 19th century. artists to decorate whole
There is also a large collec- rooms with malachite and
tion of traditional Persian to fill every corner of the
miniatures and a rich Winter Palace with marble
display of 19th-century vases. It was through these
Persian court portraits, rooms that the imperial
which combine traditional family paraded on state
elements with western oil occasions, greeting courtiers
painting, as in the Portrait of Steel dressing table set from Tula and ambassadors en route in
Fatkh-Ali Shah (1813–14). dating from 1801 the Field Marshals’ Hall.
seen, from El Greco with (1430s) by the Master of

ITALIAN AND SPANISH ART The Apostles Peter and Paul Flemalle. He is thought to have
(1587–92), through to Ribera, been the teacher of Rogier van
The display of Italian art Murillo, and Zurbarán with St der Weyden, who is repre-
contains some fine pieces. A Lawrencee (1636). The portrait sented by St Luke Painting
few early works reveal the of a courtier, Count Olivares, the Madonna (c.1435).
rise of the Renaissance in the painted c.1640 by Velázquez, Over 40 works by Rubens
14th and 15th centuries and contrasts with a much earlier include religious subjects
the styles then in vogue. genre scene of a peasant’s (The Descent
e from the Cross,
Simone Martini’s stiff breakfast (1617–18). 1617–18) and scenes from
Madonna (1340–44) contrasts Classical mythology (Perseus
with Fra Angelico’s more and Andromeda, 1620–21), as
humane fresco of the Virgin well as landscapes and an
and Child (1424–30). immensely obese Bacchus
In the late 15th and early (1636–40). His portraits, such
16th century, artists disputed as the Infanta’s Maid d (1625),
the merits of line, as practised reveal the link with his famous
by the Florentine school, and pupil Van Dyck, whose
the merits of colour, virtue of paintings include a series of
the Venetians. The former can formal, full-length portraits and
be seen in the Litta Madonna a dashing and romantic self-
(c.1491) and the Madonna portrait from the late 1620s.
Benoiss (1478) by Leonardo da The Dutch section is rich in
Vinci, a marble Crouching Boy Rembrandts. Within a short
by Michelangelo (c.1530) and period of time he produced the
two early portraits of the Virgin dramatic Abraham’s Sacrifice
by Raphael (1502 and 1506). (1636), the gentle Flora (1634)
Venice is represented by and the brilliant effects of The
Judith by Giorgione (1478– Descent from the Crosss (1634).
1510) and an array of works One of his last works was the
by Titian (c.1490–1576). The Return of the Prodigal Son
Skylight Rooms are packed (1668–9), with an emotional
with vast Baroque canvases, depth unseen before.
including works by Luca Among the many small-genre
Giordano (1634–1704) and paintings is Gerard Terborch’s
Guido Reni (1575–1642), and Venus and Cupidd (1509) by Lucas Glass of Lemonadee from the
even larger 18th-century Cranach the Elder mid-17th century. All the usual
masterpieces by Tiepolo. The elements of a genre scene are
works of the Italian sculptor imbued with psychological
Antonio Canova (1757–1822) FLEMISH, DUTCH AND tension and heavy symbolism.
(Cupid and Psyche, The Three GERMAN ART In the German collection, it
Graces)s stand in the Gallery of is the works of Lucas Cranach
Ancient Painting. The small collection of early the Elder which captivate the
The Spanish collection is paintings from the Nether- viewer. His Venus and Cupid
more modest, but Spain’s lands includes a marvellous, (1509), the stylish Portrait of
greatest painters can all be jewel-like Madonna and Child a Woman in a Hatt (1526) and
the tender Virgin and Child
Beneath an Apple Treee reveal
the varied aspects of his talent.
FRENCH AND ENGLISH

ART
French art was de rigeurr for

collectors in the 18th century.
Major artists of the 17th
century, including Louis Le
Nain and the two brilliant and
contrasting painters Claude
Lorrain and Nicolas Poussin,
are well represented. Antoine
Watteau’s elegant
Embarrassing Proposal
(c.1716), Stolen Kisss (1780s) by
Jean Honoré Fragonard and
François Boucher’s fleshy and
A Young Man Playing a Lute, by Michelangelo Caravaggio (1573–1610) certainly far-from-virtuous
subjects, as in Renoir’s
charming Portrait of the Actress
Jeanne Samaryy (1878) and
Degas’ pastels of women
washing (1880s–90s).
Pissarro’s Boulevard Mon-
tmartre in Pariss (1897) is
typical of his urban scenes.
A change in colour and tech-
nique appeared as artists
investigated new possibilities.
Van Gogh used deeper tones
in his Women of Arless (1888)
and stronger brushstrokes in
Cottagess (1890). Gauguin
turned to a different culture for
inspiration, and his Tahitian
period is represented by
enigmatic works, such as
Ea Haere Ia Oee (1893). In
Still Life with the Attributes of the Arts (1766), by Jean-Baptiste Chardin The Smokerr (c.1890–2) and
Mont Ste-Victoiree (1896–8),
heroines represent the more Cézanne introduced
wicked side of 18th-century 19TH- & 20TH-CENTURY experiments with plane and
taste, but Catherine the Great EUROPEAN ART surface which were to have
preferred didactic or instruc- a strong influence on the
tional works. She bought Still Although the royal family did next generation.
Life with Attributes of the Arts not patronize the new Matisse played both with
(1766) by Chardin and, on the movements in art in the 19th colour and surface, in the
advice of Denis Diderot, Jean- century, there were far-sighted carpet-like effect of The Red
Baptiste Greuze’s moralizing private individuals whose col- Room (1908–9) and the flat-
The Fruits of a Good lections were nationalized ness of the panels La Musique
Education (1763). She and entered the Hermitage and La Dansee (1909–10). His
also patronized sculptors, after the 1917 Revolution. visit to Morocco introduced
purchasing works Thanks to them, the new light effects, as in Arab
by Etienne- Barbizon school Coffeehousee (1913), but it was
Maurice Falconet is represented Picasso who took Cézanne’s
(Winter, carved by works such experiments one stage further.
1771) and Jean- as Camille Corot’s In early works such as Visit
Antoine Houdon The Green Frog Service, charming silvery (1902) from his Blue Period,
(Voltaire, 1781). Wedgwood (1773–4) Landscape with Picasso concentrates on mood,
Catherine also a Lake, French but the surface destruction of
acquired English works, Romanticism by two richly- the Cubist period of 1907–12,
including a portrait of the coloured Moroccan scenes of including L’Homme aux Bras
philosopher John Locke (1697) the 1850s by Delacroix. But Croisés, fills a whole room.
by Sir Godfrey Kneller, who Nicholas I himself did
was also author of a portrait acquire works by the
of Pyotr Potemkin (1682) in German Romantic
Russian 17th-century court painter Caspar David
dress. From Sir Joshua Rey- Friedrich, among
nolds Catherine commissioned them On the Prow of
The Infant Hercules Strangling the Shipp (1818–20).
the Serpentss (1788). Her most Two collectors, Ivan
daring purchase was of works Morozov and Sergey
by the still largely unknown Shchukin, brought the
Joseph Wright of Derby. The Hermitage its superb
Iron Forgee (1773) is a master- array of Impressionist
piece of artificial lighting, but and Post-Impressionist
Firework Display at the Castel paintings. Monet’s art
Sant’Angelo (1774–5) is a truly can be admired both
romantic fiery spectacle. She in his early Woman
provided much work for Eng- in a Garden (1860s)
lish cabinet-makers and carvers and in the later, more
of cameos. She became one of exploratory Waterloo
Josiah Wedgwood’s most pre- Bridge, Effect of Mist s
stigious clients, ordering the (1903). Renoir and
famous Green Frog Service for Degas perpetually L’Homme aux Bras Croisés, painted by
her Chesma Palace (see p130). returned to women as Pablo Picasso in 1909
The Winter Palace The 1812 Gallery

Preceded by three earlier versions on this site, the existing (1826) has portraits of
Winter Palace (1754–62) is a superb example of Russian Russian military heroes
Baroque. Built for Tsarina Elizabeth, this opulent winter of the Napoleonic War,
most by English artist
residence was the finest achievement of Bartolomeo Rastrelli. George Dawe.
Though the exterior has changed little, the interiors were
altered by a number of architects and then largely restored The Armorial Hall
after a fire gutted the palace in 1837. A
After the assassination of (1839), with its vast
Alexander II in 1881, the imperial family rarely lived here. gilded columns,
During World War I a field hospital was set up in the covers over 800 sq m
(8,600 sq ft). Hospital
Nicholas Hall and other state rooms. Then, in July 1917, the beds were set up
Provisional Government took the palace as its headquarters, here during the
which led to its storming by the Bolsheviks (see pp28–9). First World War.
. Small Throne Room

Dedicated in 1833 to the memory
of Peter the Great, this room
houses a silver-
r-gilt English
throne, made
in 1731.
The Field
Marshals’ Hall
(1833) was the
reception room
where the
devasta-
ting fire of
1837 broke out.
The Hall of St
George (1795) has
monolithic columns
and wall facings of
Italian Carrara marble.
The Nicholas Hall, the largest
room in the palace, was always
used for the first ball of the season. North façade
overlooking
the Neva
. Malachite Room
Over two tonnes of
ornamental stone
. Main Staircase were used in this
This vast, sweeping staircase sumptuous room
(1762) was Rastrelli’s master- (1839) which is deco-
piece. It was from here that the rated with malachite
imperial family watched the columns and vases,
Epiphany ceremony of baptism gilded doors and
in the Neva, which celebrated ceiling, and rich
Christ’s baptism in the Jordan. parquet flooring.
BARTOLOMEO RASTRELLI
The Italian architect Rastrelli (1700–
71) came to RRussia with his father in
1716 to work for Peter the Great. His
rich Baroque style became highly
fashionable and he was appointed
Chief Court Architect in 1738.
During Elizabeth’s reign, Rastrelli
designed several buildings, including
the Winter Palace, the Palace of Tsarkoe
Selo (see pp152–7) and Smolnyy Convent (see p128).
Unlike Elizabeth, Catherine the Great preferred Classical sim-
Alexander Hall plicity and Rastrelli retired in 1763, after she came to power.
Architect Aleksandr Bryullov
employed a mixture of Gothic The French Rooms,
vaulting and Neo-Classical designed by Bryullov in
stucco bas-reliefs of military 1839, house a collection
themes in this reception of 18th-century French art.
room of 1837.
The White Hall was deco-
rated for the wedding of the
future Alexander II in 1841.
South façade
on Palace
Square Dark Corridor
The French and Flemish tapes-
tries here include The Marriage
of Emperor Constantine, made
in Paris in the 17th
century to designs
by Rubens.
The Rotunda
(1830) connected
the private apartments in
the west with the state apart-
ments on the palace’s north side.
West wing
The Gothic Library and

other rooms in the northwest
part of the palace were adapted
to suit Nicholas II’s bourgeois life-
style. This wood-panelled library
was created by Meltzer in 1894.
STAR FEATURES The Gold Drawing Room

Created in the 1850s, this
. Small Throne Room room was extravagantly deco-
rated in the 1870s with all-over
. Malachite Room gilding of walls and ceiling.
. Main Staircase It houses a display of Western
European carved gems.
Millionaires’ Street e German collectors Peter and

Миллионная у лица Irene Ludwig. Their collection
Millionnaya ulitsa includes a Picasso, Large Heads
(1969), and work by post-war
Map 2 E5. artists Jean-Michel Basquiat,
Andy Warhol, Ilya Kabakov
Millionaires’ Street takes its and Roy Lichtenstein.
name from the aristocrats and In front of the palace stands
members of the imperial a curious equestrian statue of
family who once inhabited its Alexander III by Prince Pavel
opulent residences. Since the T
Trubetskoy. Unveiled on plosh-
main façades and entrances chad Vosstaniya in 1911, the
overlook the river, some house ridiculed statue was removed
numbers correspond to the from its original site in 1937
embankment side. and its vast pedestal was cut
On the eve of the Revolution, up to create statues of new
No. 26 (on the embankment) heroes, such as Lenin.
was the home of Grand Duke
Vladimir Aleksandrovich who
was responsible for firing on Field of Mars t
peaceful demonstrators on Марсово Поле
Bloody Sunday (see p26). His Gala staircase of the Marble Palace Marsovo Pole
consort, Maria Pavlovna, was
one of RRussia’s leading society Marble Palace r Map 2 F5. @ 46. v 2.
hostesses who gave soirées Мраморный дворец
and balls that eclipsed even Mramornyy dvorets Once a vast marshy expanse,
those of the imperial court. this area was drained during
The building (1867–72), which Millionnaya ulitsa 5 (entrance from the 19th century and utilized
was designed by Aleksandr the Field of Mars). Map 2 E4. Tell 312 for military manoeuvres and
Rezanov in the style of the 9196. @ 46. v 2. # 10am–6pm parades, fairs and other festi-
Florentine Renaissance, is Wed–Sun, 10am–5pm Mon. & vities. It was appropriately
now the House of Scholars. 8 English. named after Mars, the Roman
Putyatin’s house, at No. 12 god of war. Between 1917 and
Millionaires’ Street, witnessed The Marble Palace was built 1923 the area, by then a sandy
the end of the Romanov dy- as a present from Catherine the expanse, was nicknamed the
nasty. It was here that Grand Great to her lover Grigoriy “Petersburg Sahara”. It was
Duke Mikhail Aleksandrovich, Orlov who had been instru- landscaped and transformed
Nicholas II’s brother, signed mental in bringing her to into a war memorial. The gra-
the decree of abdication in power in 1762 (see nite Monument to
March 1917. Next door, No. 10, p22). An early example Revolutionary Fighters
was where French novelist of Neo-Classical archi- (1917–19), by Lev
Honoré de Balzac stayed in tecture, dating from Rudnev, and the
1843, while courting his future 1768–85, the building Eternal Flame (1957)
wife, Countess Eveline Hanska. is considered to be commemorate the
The mid-19th-century house Antonio Rinaldi’s victims of the Revolu-
was designed by Andrey Sta- masterpiece. tions of 1917 and the
kenschneider for his own use. The palace takes its Civil War (see p27).
name from the varied The west of the
marbles used in its square is dominated
construction. Most Eternal Flame, by an imposing Neo-
of the interiors were Field of Mars Classical building
reconstructed in the erected by Vasiliy
1840s by Aleksandr Bryullov, Stasov in 1817–19. This was
although the gala staircase and formerly the barracks of the
the Marble Hall are Rinaldi’s Pavlovskiy Guards which
originals. The latter has were founded by Tsar Paul I
marbled walls of grey, green, in 1796. The military-obsessed
white, yellow, pink and lapis tsar is said to have only
lazuli, and a ceiling painting, recruited guardsmen with
the Triumph of Venuss (1780s) snub noses like his own. The
by Stefano Torelli. Pavlovskiy officers were
The palace, which housed among the first to turn against
a Lenin museum for 55 years, the tsarist government in the
is now a branch of the RussianR 1917 Revolution (see pp28–9).
Museum (see pp104–107). On Today the huge square is a
display are works by foreign popular spot for locals in the
The delicately sculpted façade of artists working in Russia and bright spring evenings, when
No. 10 Millionaires’ Street modern art bequeathed by the it is alive with lilac blossom.
Summer Garden y
Летний сад
Letniy sad
Letniy Sad. Map 2 F4. @ 46. v 3.

# 10am–6pm daily (May–Oct:
10am–10pm). 7 - & May–Oct.
In 1704 Peter the Great com-

missioned this beautiful
garden which was among the
first in the city. Designed by a
Frenchman in the style of
Versailles, the allées were
planted with imported elms
and oaks and adorned with
fountains, pavilions and some
250 Italian statues dating from
the 17th and 18th centuries.
A flood in 1777 destroyed
most of the Summer Garden Ivan Krylov’s statue amidst autumn foliage in the Summer Garden
and the English-style garden
which exists today is largely Summer Palace u On the ground floor, the
the result of Catherine the Летний дворец reception room is hung with
Great’s more sober tastes. A Letniy dvorets portraits of the tsar and his
splendid feature is the fine ministers and contains Peter’s
filigree iron grille (1771–84) Naberezhnaya Kutuzova. Map 2 F4. oak Admiralty Chair. The
along the Neva embankment, Tell 314 0456. # 10 May–1 Oct: tsar’s bedroom has its origi-
created by Y Yuriy Velten and 10am–6pm Wed–Sun, 10am–5pm nal four-poster bed with a
Pyotr Yegorov.
Y Mon. ¢ last Mon of each month. @ coverlet of Chinese silk, and
For a century the Summer 46. v 3. & 8 an 18th-century ceiling pain-
Garden was an exclusive ting showing the triumph of
preserve of the nobility. When Built for Peter the Great, the Morpheus, the god of sleep.
the garden was opened to modest two-storey Summer Next door is the turnery
“respectably dressed members Palace is the oldest stone which contains some origi-
of the public” by Nicholas I, building in the city. It was nal Russian lathes as well as
two Neo-Classical pavilions, designed in the Dutch style an elaborately carved wooden
the Tea House and the Coffee by Domenico T Trezzini and meteorological instrument,
House, were erected over- was completed in 1714. The designed in Dresden in 1714.
looking the Fontanka. These Prussian sculptor Andreas The palace boasted the city’s
are now used for temporary Schlüter created the delightful first plumbing system with
exhibitions of art by modern maritime bas-reliefs (1713) as water piped directly into the
St Petersburg artists. an allegorical commentary on kitchen. The original black
Nearby, the bronze statue Russia’s naval triumphs under
R marble sink can still be seen,
of Ivan Krylov, Russia’s most Peter the Great’s stewardship. along with the beautifully
famous writer of fables, is a Grander than his wooden tiled kitchen stove and an
favourite with Russian child- cabin (see p73), Peter’s sec- array of early 18th-century
ren. It was sculpted by Pyotr ond St Petersburg residence is cooking utensils. The kitchen
Klodt in 1854 with charming still by no means comparable opens onto the exquisite
bas-reliefs on the pedestal de- to the magnificent palaces dining room, imaginatively
picting animals from his fables. built by his successors. refurbished to convey an
atmosphere of domesticity.
It was used only for small
family gatherings since major
banquets were held at the
Menshikov Palace (see p62).
An original staircase leads up
to the first floor and the more
lavish suite of Peter’s second
wife, Catherine. The throne in
the aptly named Throne Room
is ornamented with Nereides
and other sea deities. The glass
cupboards in the Green Room
once displayed Peter’s fascin-
ating collection of curiosa
before it was transferred to
The remarkable stove in the Summer Palace’s tiled kitchen the Kunstkammer (see p60).
GOSTINYY DVOR
T he Great Bazaar, Gostinyy Dvor, haute couture. Increasing commercial
was the commercial heart of St and financial activity created a new
Petersburg at the beginning of middle class of business entrepreneurs.
the 18th century and today it still
hums with activity. A pro-
By the Revolution, banks proliferated
around Nevskiy prospekt, their
fusion of smaller retail imposing new offices
outlets soon appeared introducing diverse
on and around architectural styles
Nevskiy prospekt. to a largely Neo-
Thriving commu- Statues on façade of the Russian Museum Classical setting.
nities of foreign Today the wheels of
T
merchants and businessmen also took capitalism are turning again and
up residence in the neighbourhood. Nevskiy prospekt still attracts a
Until the mid-19th century, shops in wealthy clientèle. In contrast to the
this area catered almost exclusively for bustling commercial atmosphere of
the luxury end of the market, fulfilling much of the area is the calm oasis of
the limitless demand, created by the Arts Square, with the Russian Museum
royal and aristocratic households, for and other institutions which act as a
gold and silverware, jewellery and reminder of the city’s rich cultural life.
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Churches Historic Buildings
Armenian Church 7 Glinka Capella i
Cathedral of Our Lady of Kazan t Imperial Stables p
Church on Spilled Blood p100 1
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Side view of the imposing Mikhaylovskiy Castle (see p101), a branch of the Russian Museum
Street-by-Street: Around Arts Square

The aptly named Arts Square, . Church on
one of Carlo Rossi’s finest Spilled Blood
creations, is surrounded by Colourful mosaics and
buildings revealing the city’s elaborate stone carving
impressive cultural heritage. are the main features of
The grand palace housing the the church’s exterior,
Russian Museum is flanked by which emulates tradi-
theatres and the Philharmonia tional 17th-century
concert hall. Behind it is the Russian style 1
Peter the leafy Mikhaylovskiy Garden, a
Great statue haunt of St Petersburg’s intel- Mikhaylovskiy
lectuals. The gardens stretch Garden
down to the beautiful Moyka river which
together with two other waterways, the NAB
ERE
Griboedov and Fontanka, create a shim- ZHN
AYA
mering frame for this picturesque area. REK
I MOY
KI
MOY
KA
OVA
A
DOV
OED
. Russian Museum
BOE
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Located in Rossi’s Mikhaylovskiy Palace,

GRI
this famous gallery boasts a fabulous

L G
collection of Russian painting, sculpture

ALA
NA
and applied art. The grand staircase

KAN
KA
and White Hall are original features 3

INZ
HEN
NAB
ERN
AY
A ULI
TSA
I T A
L Y A
N S
K A
Y A
ULI
TSA
Statue of
Pushkin (1957)
Nevskiy prospekt
The Great Hall of the

Philharmonia is one of the
Arts Square major concert venues in St
The square’s present Petersburg (see p202).
name derives from the
number of cultural Grand Hotel Europe
institutions situated This famous St Petersburg hotel was
here. On the western constructed by Ludwig Fontana in
side, the Mussorgsky 1873–5. Mighty atlantes adorn its
Theatre of Opera and eclectic façade which stretches all the
Ballet opened in 1833 4 way down to Nevskiy prospekt 5
G O S T I N Y Y D V O R 99
GOSTINYY DVOR
SENNAYA
PLOSHCHAD
LOCATOR MAP
The Panteleymon Bridge was
See Street Finder map 6
rebuilt in 1907–8 to support a
new tramway but it retains its
original Empire-style decor by
Ilyin (see p37).
The bird statue, cast

in 1995 by Rezo
Gabriadze, refers to a
popular rhyme about
vodka drinking.
Statue of
Peter the
NA
Great (1747)
B
RE
Mikhaylovskiy Castle
KI
A
ITS
UL
FO
Originally built for Paul I in 1797–

FO
Y A
VA
NT
O 1801, this castle was acquired by

NT
MK
ZA
AN
the Guards Corps of Engineers in

AN
1823. Today it forms part of the

KA
KA
Russian Museum and displays

historical portraits 2
STAR SIGHTS
SA
. Russian Museum
ULIT
A PLOSCHAD
ITS BELINSKOVO
UL . Church on Spilled
KA
A
AY
RAVA
RN Blood
VAYA
E NE
H
KLEN
INZ
NNAYA ULITSA
OVA
KEY
SADO
YA
Suggested route
ALL
EYA
0 metres 100
A 0 yards 100
Y
NA D
ZH A
A NE SCH
M PLO
Nevskiy
prospekt
The Circus or “tsirk”,
advertised by a colourful neon
Museum of Hygiene, sign, began performing in the
with macabre displays of 19th century when it was
preserved human organs, known as the Ciniselli Circus.
was established in 1919 It still offers traditional per-
to teach the public about formances (see p201) in its
health and hygiene. original venue by the Fontanka.
Church on Spilled Blood 1 VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Храм Спаса-на-Крови
Konyushennaya ploshchad. Map
Khram Spasa-na-Krovi
2 E5. Tell 315 1636. q Gostinyy
The Church on Spilled Blood, also known as the Dvor, Nevskiy Prospekt. # May–
Sep 10am–8pm (Oct–Apr 11am–
Resurrection Church of Our Saviour, was built on the
7pm) Thu–Tue. & ^ 8
spot where on 1 March 1881 Tsar Alexander II was
assassinated (see p26). In 1883 his successor, Alexander
III, launched a competition for a permanent memorial.
The winning design, in the Russian Revival style
favoured by the tsar himself, was by Alfred
Parland and Ignatiy Malyshev. The foundation
stone was laid in October 1883.
A riot of colour, the overall effect of the
church is created by the imaginative juxtapo-
sition of materials. Inside, more than 20 types of
minerals, including jasper, rhodonite, porphyry Mosaic Tympanum
and Italian marble are lavished on the mosaics Mosaic panels showing scenes from the
of the iconostasis, icon cases, canopy and New Testament adorn the exterior. They
floor. The interior reopened in 1998 after were based on designs by artists such as
more than 20 years of restoration. Viktor Vasnetsov and Mikhail Nesterov.
The tent-roofed
steeple is 81 m
(265 ft) high.
Coat of Arms
The 144 mosaic coats
of arms on the bell Intricate Detailing
tower represent the The flamboyant
regions, towns and Russian Revival style
provinces of the of the exterior
Russian empire. provides a dra-
They were intended matic contrast to
to reflect the grief the Neo-Classical
shared by all and Baroque
Russians in architecture
the wake of which dominates
Alexander’s the centre of
assassination. St Petersburg.
Jewellers’ enamel was

used to cover the
1,000 sq m Mosaic portraits
(10,760 sq ft) surface of the saints are
of the five domes. set in tiers of
kokoshnikii gables.
Almost 7,000 sq m
Glazed ceramic (75,300 sq ft) of
tiles enliven mosaics embellish
the façade. the church’s extra-
vagant exterior.
Twenty dark red
plaques of Norwegian
granite are engraved in Window Frames
gilt letters with the most The windows are
outstanding events of flanked by carved
Alexander II’s reign columns of ornate
(1855–81). Among the Estonian marble. The
historic events recorded
are the emancipation of
casings are in the form
the serfs in 1861 and of double and triple
the conquest of Central kokoshniki (tiered
Asia (1860–81). decorative arches).
of Engineers and was Paul Jacot in 1834–9, it started

renamed. The school’s most as a Nobles’ Club where con-
famous graduate was the certs were held. Among the
writer Fyodor Dostoevsky (see works premiered here were
p123). Today the castle serves Beethoven’s Missa Solemnis
as a branch of the nearby in 1824 and Tchaikovsky’s
Russian Museum. It is used (see p42) Pathétiquee in 1893.
for temporary exhibitions. On the square’s western side
The Church of the is the Mussorgsky Opera and
Archangel Michael is accessed Ballet Theatre (see p202),
via the exhibition and is a rebuilt by Albert Kavos in the
good example of Brenna’s mid-19th century. In the centre
Neo-Classical style. of the square is a sculpture of
In front of the castle stands one of Russia’s greatest literary
a bronze statue of Peter the figures, Alexander Pushkin
South façade of Mikhaylovskiy Great on horseback, designed (see p43). The statue was
Castle and statue of Peter the Great by Bartolomeo Carlo Rastrelli executed by leading post-war
and cast in 1747. sculptor, Mikhail Anikushin.
Mikhaylovskiy
Castle 2
Миxайлoвский замок Russian Museum 3
Mikhaylovskiy zamok See pp104–107.
Sadovaya ulitsa 2. Map 2 F5. Tell 313

4173. @ 46, K-46, K-76. v 3.
# 10am–6pm Wed–Sun, 10am–
Arts Square 4
Площадь Искусств
5pm Mon. & 8 book by phone. 7
Ploshchad Iskusstv
The imposing red brick castle Map 6 F1. q Nevskiy Prospekt,
overlooking the Moyka and Gostinyy Dvor.
Fontanka rivers is also known
as the Engineers’ Castle. It was Several of the city’s leading
erected in 1797–1801 by Vasiliy cultural institutions are
Bazhenov and Vincenzo Brenna located on this imposing Neo-
for Tsar Paul I. The tsar’s Classical square, hence its
obsessive fear of being name. The attractive square
assassinated led him to sur- was designed by Carlo Rossi in
round his new residence with the early 19th century to har-
moats and drawbridges, and to monize with the magnificent Grand Hotel Europe’s elegant Style-
build a secret underground Mikhaylovskiy Palace (now Moderne restaurant (see p181)
passage to the barracks on the the Russian Museum) which
Field of Mars (see p94). stands on its northern side. Grand Hotel
Unfortunately, all these On the opposite side of the
precautions proved futile and, square is the Great Hall of the
Europe 5
after living in his fortified castle St Petersburg Philharmonia, Гранд Отель Европа
for just 40 days, Paul fell victim also known as the Shostakovich Grand Otel Evropa
to a military conspiracy which Hall (see p43). This is where
Mikhaylovskaya ulitsa 1/7.
resulted in his murder (see p22). the Philharmonic Orchestra has
T l 329 6000. q
Map 6 F1. Tel
In 1823 the fortress was been based since the 1920s
Nevskiy Prospekt, Gostinyy Dvor.
acquired by the Guards Corps (see p202). Constructed by
7 See Where to Stay p175.
One of Russia’s most famous
hotels, the ornate Grand Hotel
Europe (1873–5) was designed
by Ludwig Fontana. The
building owes much of its
character to alterations made
in the 1910s by Style-Moderne
architect Fyodor Lidval.
Before the Revolution, the
hotel’s magnificent restaurant
was a favourite rendezvous for
members of the diplomatic
corps and secret police. In the
1970s, the hotel café became a
popular meeting place for
Pushkin’s statue in front of the Russian Museum, Arts Square young intellectuals and artists.
The Church on Spilled Blood, a magical reminder of old Russia
Russian Museum 3
The Benois Wing,
named after its main
Русский Музей architect Leontiy
Russkiy Muzey Benois, was added
71
in 1913–19.
The museum is housed in the Mikhaylovskiy Palace,
72
70
one of Carlo Rossi’s finest Neo-Classical creations Stairs to
89
73
which was built in 1819–25 for Grand Duke ground
90
69
floor
Mikhail Pavlovich. Alexander III’s plans to
88
91
74
68
create a public museum were realized by
75
his son, Nicholas II, when the Russian
67
92
Museum opened here in 1898. Today,
76
87
93
10
the museum holds one of the world’s
66
0
77
94
greatest collections of Russian art.
78
99
85
95
86
79
84
98
96
. Princess Olga
80
97
Konstantinovna
83
81
Orlova (1911)
82
By the turn of the
20th century,Valentin
Serov was the most Entrance
successful portrait
10
7
10 8
painter in Russia.
10
8
11
6
10
d
9
Temporary exhibitions
of 20th-century art are m
11
11
7
0
often displayed. 11
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5
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5
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0
10
47
2
48
10
1
50
Stairs to
first floor of
Benois Wing
A Meal in the Monastery (1865–76)
Vasiliy Perov’s canvas exposes the
hypocrisy of the Orthodox clergy, with GALLERY GUIDE
the juxtaposition of good and evil, rich The main entrance on Arts
65
60
Square leads to the ticket office

64
and poor, false piety and true faith.

63
in the basement. The exhibition

61
62
starts on the first floor. It is arranged

chronologically, starting with icons
STAR EXHIBITS in Room 1. It continues on the
ground floor of the main building
. Princess Olga and Rossi Wing, then the first floor
Konstantinovna of the Benois Wing. Exhibitions are
Orlova by Serov changed regularly.
. The Last Day of

Pompeii by Bryullov Folk Art Toy (1930s)
This clay toy from Dykomovo is part
. Barge-Haulers on the of the colourful selection of folk art
Volga by Repin which also includes lacquer boxes,
painted ceramics and textiles.
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Inzhenernaya ulitsa 4. Map 6 F1.
Tell 595 4248. q Nevskiy Pros-
pekt, Gostinyy Dvor. @ 3, 7, 22,
K 128, K-
K- K 169.  1, 5, 7,
K 129, K-
10, 22. v 3. # 10am–5pm
Mon; 10am–6pm Wed–Sun (last
ticket an hour before closing). &
7 phone for details. 8 English
(tel: 314 3448). = - 9
English. www.rusmuseum.ru
. The Last Day of Pompeii (1833)
Karl Bryullov’s Classical subject em-
bodies the aesthetic principles of the
Academy of Arts. This vivid depiction
of the eruption of Vesuvius won him
the Grand Prix at the Paris Salon.
14
Stairs to . Barge-Haulers on
15
ground floor the Volga (1870–73)

12
Ilya Repin was the most famous member

13
16
of the Wanderers, a group of artists

11
17
dedicated to social realism and Russian

themes. His powerful indictment of
10
The White
forced labour imbues the oppressed
9
Hall contains
victims with sullen dignity.
8
original Empire-
1
style furniture
7
by Carlo Ros
Rossi.
2
3
Rossi Wing Start of

5
46
exhibition
4
45
44
43
51
49
42
41
33
Entrance points
52
40
from basement
53
34
32
Phryne at the Festival of Poseidon

39
ticket office
54
in Eleusin (1889)
35
Henryk Siemiradzki’s paintings are fine

36
31
55
56
examples of late European Neo-Classicism.

30
37
57
He is renowned for his academic scenes

29
58
= of life in ancient Greece and Rome.

59
=
28
38
27
=
KEY
26
25
Old Russian art

18
24
19
18th-century art
23
20
Early 19th-century art

22
Late 19th-century art

The portico of
21
eight Corinthian Late 19th-early 20th-century art

columns is the
20th-century art
central feature of The main
Rossi’s façade. entrance is 18th–20th-century sculpture
Behind is a frieze through a small door Folk art
of Classical figures, which leads to the
designed by Rossi Stairs to basement with a ticket Temporary exhibitions
and executed by first floor office, a cloakroom, Non-exhibition space
Demut-Malinovskiy. toilets and a café.
Exploring the Russian Museum

Housing one of the world’s greatest collections of
Russian art, the museum originally comprised officially
approved works from the Academy of Arts (see p63).
When the museum was nationalized after the Revolution,
art was transferred from palaces, churches and private
collections. By the 1930s, Socialist Realism had become
state policy and avant-garde works were stored away, to
re-emerge with the advent of perestroika in the 1980s.
18TH–19TH-CENTURY ART
The first secular portraits

(which owed much to the
static quality of the icons)
appeared in the second half Portrait of E I Nelidova (1773),
of the 17th century. It was, by Dmitriy Levitskiy
however, under Peter the Great
that Russian painting fully Fyodor Matveev (1758–1826).
cast off from its Byzantine Ivan Aivazovskiy’s (1817–1900)
moorings. Peter the Great vast marine paintings, however,
himself was the first patron to have something purely Russian
R
send young artists, often serfs, in their scale and mood.
to study abroad. Secular art Romanticism also influenced
began to gain momentum in history painters such as Karl
1757 with the establishment Bryullov (1799–1852), as in
The Angel with the Golden Hair,r an of the Academy of Arts (see his depiction of The Last Day
icon from the early 12th century p63) which placed a heavy of Pompeii.
emphasis on Classical and In 1863 a group of students,
mythological subjects. led by Ivan Kramskoy (1837–
OLD RUSSIAN ART European influence perme- 87), rebelled against the
ates the work of Russia’s first conservatism of the Academy
The museum’s fine collection important portrait painters, of Arts. Seven years later
begins with icons dating from Ivan Nikitin (1688–1741) and they went on to set up the
the 12th–17th centuries. Andrey Matveev (1701–39). Association of Travelling
T Art
Russian icons derive from the The art of portraiture matured Exhibitions, and came to
Orthodox tradition and thus, with Dmitriy Levitskiy (1735– be better known as the
just like Byzantine icons, tend 1822), amongst whose best Wanderers (Peredvizhniki), or
to be sombre, marked by an known works is a series of the Itinerants. They demanded
absence of movement and a portraits of noble girls from that painting should be more
remote, mystic characterization the Smolnyy Institute. socially relevant, and were
of the saints. A superb example Russian landscape painting fundamentally committed to
is one of the earliest icons, The was stimulated by the Roman- Russian subject matter.
Angel with the Golden Hair, tic movement and in particular The most versatile of the
in which the large, expressive artists who sought inspiration Wanderers was Ilya Repin
eyes and delicate modelling abroad, including Silvestr 3 whose bold canvas
(see p43)
of the Archangel Gabriel’s Shchedrin (1791–1830) and Barge-Haulers on the Volga
face convey a sense
of ethereal grace.
The Novgorod
School (see p165)
encouraged a much
bolder and brighter
style with a greater
sense of drama and
movement. And yet
it is the poetically
expressive and tech-
nically refined work
of Andrey Rublev
(c.1340 – c.1430) that
is considered by
many to mark the
pinnacle of Russian
icon painting. Knight at the Crossroads (1882), by Viktor Vasnetsov
including Benois and Leon

Bakst, designed stage sets and
costumes for Diaghilev’s
Ballets Russes (see p119).
The Russian avant-garde
grew out of these local influ-
ences, plus the art of Cézanne,
Picasso and Matisse. Mikhail
Larionov (1881–1964) and
Natalya Goncharova (1881–
1962) both made brilliant use
of Russian folk art as inspira-
tion for primitivist works such
as Goncharova’s Bleaching
Canvass (1908). They often
altered their style in response
to changing stimuli and later
turned to Futurism’s cult of the
machine, as in Goncharova’s
Cyclistt (1913) (see p40).
The link between innova-
The Six-Winged Seraph (1904), by Mikhail Vrubel tion in painting and the arts in
general at this time is strikingly
combines a visually powerful depicted in Boris Grigorev’s
attack on forced labour with a 20TH-CENTURY ART angular portrait of Meyerhold,
romantic view of the Russian himself renowned for his
people. Meanwhile, A Meal The dark, brooding canvases radical approach to theatre.
in tthe Monasteryy by Vasiliy
V of Symbolist Mikhail Vrubel
V Kazimir Malevich’s (1878–
Perov (1833–82) is a satirical (1856 –1910) combine Russian 1935) fascination with the jux-
and equally effective attack and religious themes with a taposition of simple geometric
on social injustice. more international outlook. shapes inspired the Suprematist
The nationalist element led Vrubel used colour and form
V movement. V Vasily Kandinsky
history painters such as Nikolay to depict emotion and in The (1866–1944), a leading member
Ge (1831–94) and Vasiliy
V Suri- Six-Winged Seraph he of Munich’s Blaue Reiter group,
kov (1848 –1916) to turn to employs a broken, vibrant, was also a key figure in the
Russian history for inspiration, surface to express tension. growth of Russian abstract art.
treating their subjects with a Another major contribution Marc Chagall (1887–1985),
new psychological acuity, as to 20th-century art was the El Lissitskiy (1890–1941) and
in Ge’s canvas of 1871–2, in “World of Art” movement, Alexander Rodchenko (1891–
which Peter the Great interro- founded by Alexandre Benois 1956) are also represented.
gates his sullenly resistant son. and Sergey Diaghilev in the Due to the high demand for
The general Slavic revival 1890s (see p26). It rejected the the loan of avant-garde works
also breathed new life into notion of “socially useful art” abroad, a changing selection
landscape painting, concen- in favour of a new tenet, “art by the major artists is on show.
trating on the beauties of the pure and unfettered”, and
Russian countryside. The also opened up Russian paint-
master of the genre was Isaak ing to Western influences. FOLK ART
Levitan (1860 –1900), whose Many members of the group,
Golden Autumn Village, dated Folk art became a strong
1889, is almost Impressionist in influence on the development
style, a sign perhaps that the of modern Russian art in the
ascendancy of the Wanderers 1860s when the wealthy
was coming to an end. industrialist and patron Savva
V
Viktor Vasnetsov (1848–1926)
V Mamontov established an
turned to Russia’s heroic, and artists’ colony at Abramtsevo,
often legendary, pre-European near Moscow. Vasiliy
V Polenov
past, in realistically painted (1844 –1927), Ilya Repin and
canvases such as the Knight Viktor V Vasnetsov were among
at the Crossroads. A haunting the painters encouraged to
metaphor for R Russia’s uncertain work alongside, and learn
future, the painting reveals from, the serf craftsmen on the
that VVasnetsov was unable to estate. The museum’s collec-
avoid the fin-de-siècle melan- tion of folk art is wonderfully
choly and mysticism which diverse and includes exquis-
was so potently expressed in itely embroidered tapestries,
the work of the next up-and- traditional headdresses, painted
coming generation of artists, Portrait of the Director Vsevolod tiles, porcelain toys, and lac-
notably the Symbolists. Meyerhold d (1916), Boris Grigorev quered spoons and dishes.
Nevskiy Prospekt 6 the avenue navigable in 1721,

Невский проспект fine mansions, such as the
Nevskiy prospekt Stroganov Palace (see p112)
soon started to appear. Shops
Map 6 D1–8 D3. q Nevskiy Prospekt, and bazaars, catering for the
Gostinyy Dvor. See also pp46–9. nobility, and inns for travelling
merchants followed. A magnet
Russia’s most famous street, pulling rich and poor alike, by
Nevskiy prospekt, is also St the mid-18th century the ave-
Petersburg’s main thorough- nue had become the place to
fare and artery. In the 1830s, see and be seen, to meet for
the novelist Nikolai Gogol (see gossip, business and pleasure.
p42) declared with great pride: Today, the street still teems
“There is nothing finer than with people until late into the
Nevskiy Avenue…in
A St Peters- night throughout the year.
burg it is everything…is there Many of the city’s sights are
anything more gay, more brill- close to the stretch between
iant, more resplendent than this the Admiralty and Anichkov
beautiful street of our capital?”. Bridge (see pp46–7). Some of
In this respect very little has the best shops (see pp194–5) Armenian Church portico (1771–9)
actually changed, for Nevskiy can be found around Gostinyy
prospekt’s intrinsic “all-power- dvor and Passazh arcade. Armenian Church 7
ful” value still prevails today. Nevskiy prospekt also offers Армянская церковь
Laid out in the early days of a wealth of cultural interest: Armyanskaya tserkov
the city, it was first known as the Small Philharmonia concert
the Great Perspective Road, hall (see p202), the Russian Nevskiy prospekt 40–42. Map 6 F1.
running 4.5 km (3 miles) from national library, Beloselskiy- Tell 318 4108. q Gostinyy Dvor.
the Admiraltyy (see p78) to the Belozerskiy Palace (see p49) # 9am–9pm.
Alexander Nevsky Monastery and a wide variety of
(see pp130–31). In spite of museums, theatres, churches, Yuriy Velten designed the
Y
roaming wolves and uncon- including the Church of St beautiful blue and white
trollable flooding from the Catherine (see p48), shops, Armenian Church of St Cathe-
Neva (see p37) which made cinemas and eateries. rine, with its Neo-Classical
portico and single cupola. The
church, which opened in 1780,
was financed by a wealthy
Armenian businessman called
Ioakim Lazarev, who acquired
the money from the sale of a
Persian diamond which Count
Grigoriy Orlov purchased for
Catherine the Great (see p22).
Closed in 1930, the building
has now been returned to the
Armenian community and
visitors are welcome to attend
a service.
Gostinyy Dvor 8
Гостиный двор
Gostinyy dvor
Nevskiy pr 35. Map 6 F2. Tell 710

5408. q Gostinyy Dvor. # 10am–
10pm daily.
The term gostinyy dvorr origi-

nally meant a coaching inn,
but as trade developed
around the inns, with travelling
merchants setting up their
stalls, it later came to mean
“trading rows”. The original
wooden structure of this
gostinyy dvorr was destroyed
by fire in 1736. Twenty years
View along the bustle of Nevskiy prospekt, the hub of St Petersburg later, Bartolomeo Rastrelli
G O S T I N N Y D V O R 109
designed a new building but

the project proved too costly
and ambitious. Building recom-
menced in 1761 and continued
until 1785. Vallin de la Mothe
created the striking sequence
of columned arcades and
massive porticos. The promi-
nent yellow building forms an
irregular quadrangle which is
bounded on one side by
Nevskiy prospekt. The com-
bined length of its façades is
nearly 1 km (3,300 ft).
In the 19th century the
gallery became a fashionable
promenade where more than
5,000 people were employed. Style-Moderne stained-glass windows in Yeliseev’s food store
Serious damage during the
Siege of Leningrad (see p27) food store. Housed in the city’s times, according to the tastes
led to major reconstruction, most opulent Style-Moderne of each successive owner.
making it more like a modern building, designed by Gavriil After Razumovskiy’s death,
department store. Even now, Baranovskiy in 1901–3, it is Catherine the Great in turn
with all the changes, it has adorned with bronzes, heroic gave the building to her lover,
retained its layout of “stalls” of sculptures and huge windows. Prince Potemkin (see p25). In
individual trading units. Today The equally impressive interior, the early 19th century, Neo-
it includes branches of foreign with its stained-glass windows, Classical details were added
shops and a wide range of marble counters and crystal by Carlo Rossi.
goods, making it the city’s most chandeliers, steals the attention The palace then became the
important store (see p195). from the delicacies on sale (see traditional winter residence of
p198). A plaque by the main the heir to the throne. When
door honours the grandsons. Alexander III became tsar in
1881, he continued to live here,
however, rather than move to
Anichkov Palace 0 the Winter Palace as was
Аничков дворец customary. After his death,
Anichkov dvorets his widow Maria Fyodorovna
stayed on until the Revolution.
Nevskiy prospekt 39. Map 7 A2. The palace originally had
q Gostinyy Dvor. ¢ to public large gardens to the west but
except for special events. these were curtailed in 1816
when Ostrovskiy Square (see
In the early days, the broad p110) was created and two
Fontanka river was lined by Neo-Classical pavilions were
palaces accessible mainly by added. The elegant colonnaded
boat. One of them was the building overlooking the
Anichkov Palace (1741–50), Fontanka to the east was
Columned arcades, Gostinyy dvor remodelled in Baroque style commissioned by Giacomo
in 1754. The palace was a gift Quarenghi in 1803–5. It was
from Tsarina Elizabeth to her initially built as an arcade
Yeliseev’s 9 lover Aleksey Razumovskiy. where goods from the imperial
Елисеевский гастроном It was named after Lieutenant factories were stored before
Yeliseevskiy gastronom Colonel Mikhail AAnichkov who being allocated to the palaces.
set up camp on this site at the Later it was converted into
Nevskiy prospekt 56. Map 6 F1. time of the founding of the government offices and now
Tell 312 1865. q Gostinyy Dvor. city. Over the years the palace also houses the Cultural Centre
# 10am–9pm Mon–Fri, 11am–9pm was rebuilt and altered many of Children’s Creative Work.
Sat & Sun. ¢ Jan 1.
The successful Yeliseev

Y
dynasty was founded by
Pyotr Y
Yeliseev, an ambitious
peasant who, in 1813, opened
a wine shop on Nevskiy
prospekt. By the turn of the
century his grandsons owned
a chocolate factory, numerous
houses, inns and this famous Quarenghi’s addition to the Anichkov Palace from Nevskiy prospekt
Ulitsa Zodchevo
Rossi w
У лица 3одчего Росси
Ulitsa Zodchevo Rossi
Map 6 F2. q Gostinyy Dvor.

There could be no better
memorial to Carlo Rossi than
the near perfect architectural
ensemble of identical arcades
and colonnades forming
“Architect Rossi Street”. The
22-m (72-ft) high buildings
stand precisely 22 m (72 ft)
apart and are 220 m (720 ft)
Porticoed façade of Alexandriinskiy Theatre (1828–32), Ostrovskiy Square in length. Viewed from plosh-
chad Lomonosova, the
Ostrovskiy Square q The benches behind the perspective hypnotically
Площадь Островского monument are packed during coaxes the eye towards the
Ploshchad Ostrovskovo the summer months with Alexandriinskiy Theatre.
chess players and spectators. At No. 2 is the home of the
Map 6 F2. q Gostinyy Dvor. Russian On the west side of the square, former Imperial School of
National Library Tell 310 2856. opposite the Anichkov Palace Ballet, now named after the
# 9am–9pm. Theatre Museum (see p109) is an elegant colon- teacher Agrippina Vaganova
Tell 571 2195. # 11am–6pm nade decorated with Classical (1879–1951), one of the few
Thu–Mon, 1–7pm Wed. ¢ last Fri of sculptures. This is the exten- dancers not to emigrate after
each month and public hols. & 8 sion of the Russian Library, the Revolution. The school
www.theatremuseum.ru made by Rossi in 1828–34. began in 1738 when Jean-
Founded in 1795, the library Baptiste Landé began training
One of Russia’s most brilliant currently holds more than 28 orphans and palace servants’
architects, Carlo Rossi, created million items. A prized pos- children to take part in court
this early 19th-century square, session is the personal library entertainment. It moved to its
which is now named in of the French philosopher present quarters in 1836 and
honour of the dramatist Alek- Voltaire, which Catherine the has since produced many of
sandr Ostrovskiy (1823–86). Great purchased to show her Russia’s most celebrated dan-
The focal point of the square appreciation of her sometime cers (see p118), including Anna
is the elegant Alexandriinskiy mentor and correspondent. Pavlova and Rudolf Nureyev.
Theatre (see p202), designed in In the southeast corner of
the Neo-Classical style which the square, at No. 6, is the
Rossi favoured. The portico of Theatre Museum which traces
six Corinthian columns is crow- the evolution of the Russian
ned by a chariot of Apollo, stage from its origins in mid-
sculpted by Stepan Pimenov. 18th-century serf and imperial
The building was the new theatres. Amid the eclectic
home to R Russia’s oldest theatre array of playbills, photographs,
company, set up in 1756. Plays costumes, set designs and
premiered here included other artifacts, there are also
Nikolai Gogol’s The Inspector some set designs by one of
Generall (1836) and Anton the great innovators of modern
Chekhov’s The Seagulll (1901). theatre, the director Vsevolod 19th-century photograph of ulitsa
In Soviet times the theatre was Meyerhold (1874–1940). Zodchevo Rossi (1828–34)
renamed the Pushkin Theatre.
In the garden just in front of
ARCHITECT CARLO ROSSI
the theatre is a monument to
Catherine the Great, surpri- Carlo Rossi (1775–1849) was one of the last great
singly the only one to be exponents of Neo-Classicism in St Petersburg.
found in St Petersburg. It He found an ideal client in Alexander I, who
was designed principally shared his belief in the use of architecture to
by Mikhail Mikeshin and express the power of the ruling autocracy.
unveiled in 1873. The By the time of his death, Rossi had created
statue depicts Catherine no fewer than 12 of St Petersburg’s impressive
surrounded by states- streets and 13 of its squares, including Palace
men and other worthies, Square (see p83). Rossi’s status as Alexander I’s
and includes the female favourite architect encouraged rumours that
president (1783–96) of Rossi was the offspring of an affair between
the Academy of Sciences, Tsar Paul I and Rossi’s Italian ballerina mother.
Princess YYekaterina Dashkova.
all the way along Apraksin The cathedral is named after

pereulok, and in a yard (see the miracle-working icon of
p195) behind the arcade, toys, Our Lady of Kazan. The icon
car parts, cigarettes, watches, is now kept in the cathedral.
TV sets, alcohol and leather The interior decoration is
jackets are sold. generally subdued. Its most
impressive features are the
great 80-m (262-ft) high dome
Cathedral of Our and the massive pink Finnish
Lady of Kazan t granite columns with bronze
Собор Казанской capitals and bases. Occupied
in the Communist era by a
Богоматери Museum of Atheism, the
Sobor Kazanskoy Bogomateri building was returned to
Central corpus of Vorontsov Palace exclusive religious use in 1999.
Kazanskaya pl 2. Map 6 E1. Tell 317
Completed in 1811, the
5856. q Nevskiy Prospekt.
Vorontsov Palace e # 9am–7:30pm daily. 8 
cathedral is intimately linked
Воронцовский дворец with the wars against Napoleon
Vorontsovskiy dvorets One of St Petersburg’s most (see p22) fought during the
majestic churches, the same period. In 1813 Field
Sadovaya ulitsa 26. Map 6 F2. Cathedral of Our Lady of Marshal Mikhail Kutuzov
¢ to public. q Gostinyy Dvor, Kazan was commissioned by (1745–1813), mastermind of
Sennaya Ploshchad. Paul I and took over a decade a successful retreat from
to build (1801–11). The Moscow following the
The most exclusive military impressive design by serf invasion of Napoleon’s Grand
school in the Russian empire, architect Andrey Voronikhin Army in 1812, was buried
the Corps des Pages, was inspired by St Peter’s in here with full military
occupied the Vorontsov Palace Rome. Its 111-m (364-ft) long, honours. Kutuzov has been
from 1810–1918. Among those curved colonnade disguises the immortalized in Tolstoy’s
privileged enough to study orientation of the building great novel War and Peace
here were a number of the which runs parallel to Nevskiy (1865–9). His statue and that
Decembrists (see pp22–3) and prospekt, conforming to a of his comrade-in-arms,
Prince Felix Yusupov
Y v (see religious stipulation that the Mikhail Barclay de Tolly
p121). TToday the palace houses main altar face east. In (1761–1818), both by Boris
the Suvorov Military Academy. Voronikhin’s original design Orlovskiy, have stood in
Designed by Bartolomeo he intended to duplicate the Kazanskaya ploshchad out-
Rastrelli (see p93), the hand- colonnade on the south side. side the cathedral since 1837.
some palace, which once stood
in its own extensive grounds,
was built in 1749–57 for Prince
Mikhail Vorontsov, one of
Tsarina Elizabeth’s leading
ministers. Rastrelli’s graceful
wrought-iron railings are
among the earliest examples
of their kind in Russia.
Apraksin Market r
Апраксин двор
Apraksin dvor
Sadovaya ulitsa. Map 6 E2.

q Gostinyy Dvor, Sennaya
Ploshchad. # 9am–5pm.
Founded in the late 18th cen-

tury, the market takes its
name from the Apraksin family
who owned the land it was
built on. When fire destroyed
the original wooden stalls in
1862, the arcade was erected.
By 1900 there were more than
600 outlets selling everything
from food, wine and spices to
furs, furniture and haberdash-
ery. Today, street stalls extend Pink granite columns and mosaic floor in main nave, Kazan Cathedral
Stroganov Palace y 1830s, the church served

Строгановский дворец St Petersburg’s ever-growing
Stroganovskiy dvorets German communityy (see p57).
The prize-winning design by
Nevskiy prospekt 17. Map 6 E1. Aleksandr Bryullov is in an un-
q Nevskiy Prospekt. Tell 717 2360. usual, Neo-Romanesque style.
# 10am–6pm Wed–Sun From 1936 the church was
(10am–5pm Mon). & used as a vegetable store until,
in the late 1950s, it was con-
This Baroque masterpiece verted into a swimming pool.
was designed in 1752–4 by The basin was carved out of
Bartolomeo Rastrelli (see the nave floor, the gallery
p93). Commissioned by the lined with spectator benches
enormously wealthy Count and there was a high diving
Sergey Stroganov, the palace board under the apse. The
was occupied by his descen- building has now been handed
dants until the 1917 Revolution. Neo-Romanesque portal of the back to the German-Lutheran
The vast Stroganov fortune Lutheran Church (1832–8) Church of Russia. Restoration
was amassed mainly through is under way, but the church is
the monopoly the family held were auctioned in the West, open and has regular services.
on salt, which they mined and the rest were transferred
from their territories in the to the Hermitage (see pp84–
north of the Russian empire. 93). The building now belongs
The pink and white palace, to the Russian Museum (see
which overlooks both Nevskiy pp104–107). It is used for
prospekt and the Moyka river, temporary exhibitions. Also on
was one of the city’s most show here is a collection of
impressive private residences. waxworks of historical figures.
The magnificent river façade is
decorated with Doric columns,
cornices, pediments and inven- Lutheran Church u
tive window surrounds. Лютеранская церковь
The Stroganovs were noted Lyuteranskaya tserkov The Academic Capella concert hall
collectors of everything from
Egyptian antiquities and Roman Nevskiy prospekt 22–24. Map 6 E1. Academic Capella i
coins to icons and Old Masters. q Nevskiy Prospekt. Академическая капелла
The palace was nationalized Akademicheskaya kapella
after the Revolution and then Set back a little from Nevskiy
preserved for ten years as a prospekt, the attractive, twin- Naberezhnaya reki Moyki 20. Map 2
museum of the life of the towered Lutheran church is E5. Tell 314 1058. q Nevskiy
decadent aristocracy. When it dedicated to St Peter. Built in Prospekt. # for concerts only. &
was closed, some of the objects its present form during the ^ See Entertainment p194.
Enclosed within a courtyard

off the Moyka river is this
ochre-coloured concert hall
with a façade in the French
Classical style of Louis XV.
The Academic Capella was
designed by Leontiy Benois in
1887–9 as the residence of the
Imperial Court choir. Founded
during the reign of Peter the
Great, the choir is as old as
the city itself. Its former
directors have included the
distinguished Russian com-
posers Mikhail Glinka
(1804–57) and Nikolai
Rimsky-
y Korsakov (1844–1908).
With its excellent acoustics,
the Academic Capella can
claim to be one of the best
concert halls in the world.
Outside is the aptly named
Singers’ Bridge (Pevcheskiy
most), which was designed by
Elaborate west façade of the Stroganov Palace overlooking the Moyka river Y
Yegor Adam in 1837–40.
than 4,500 volumes in a stag-

gering 14 European and
Oriental languages. Among
these are works by the authors
whom Pushkin most admired,
including Shakespeare, Byron,
Heine, Dante and Voltaire.
Imperial Stables p
Конюшенное Ведомство
Konyushennoe Vedomstvo
Konyushennaya ploshchad 1.
Map 2 E5. Church # 10am–7pm
Personal effects in Pushkin’s study, Pushkin House-Museum daily.  ^
Pushkin House- slave in 1706, Hannibal served The long, salmon-coloured

as a general under Peter the building running parallel to
Museum o Great. He was the inspiration the Moyka embankment is the
Музей-квартира for the unfinished novel The former Imperial stables.
А. С. Пушкина Negro of Peter the Greatt on Originally built in the first
Muzey-kvartira AS Pushkina which Pushkin was working part of the 18th century, the
at the time of his death. stables were reconstructed by
Naberezhnaya reki Moyki 12. Map 2 On the wall in front of his Vasiliy Stasov in 1817–23.
E5. Tell 571 3531. # 10am–6pm desk is a Turkish sabre presen- The only part of the building
Wed–Mon. ¢ last Fri of each month ted to Pushkin in the Caucasus, open to the public lies behind
and public hols. & 8 where he had been exiled in the central section of the long
1820 for his radical views. south façade, crowned by a
Every year on the anniversary Ironically it was there that he silver dome and cross. This is
of Alexander Pushkin’s death spent some of his happiest the church where Alexander
(29 January 1837), loyal devo- years. It was there too that he Pushkin’s funeral took place
tees of Russia’s greatest poet began his most famous work, on 1 February 1837. Its Neo-
come to lay floral tributes out- Eugene Onegin, a novel in Classical interior is in the
side his apartment. Pushkin verse written in 1823–30. form of a basilica and is
was born in Moscow in 1799, The most impressive feature decorated with yellow marble
but spent many years of his of the apartment is the poet’s pillars. It is now a fully
life in St Petersburg and the library which contains more functional Orthodox church.
museum is one of several
places in the city with which
the poet is associated.
From the autumn of 1836
until his death, Pushkin lived
in this fairly opulent apart-
ment overlooking the Moyka,
with his wife Natalya, their
four children and Natalya’s
two sisters. It was here on the
couchette in the study that he
bled to death after his fateful
duel with d’Anthès (see p83).
Some half dozen rooms on
the first floor have been re-
furbished in the Empire style
of the period. By far the most
evocative is Pushkin’s study,
which is arranged exactly as
it was when he died. On the
writing table is an ivory paper
knife given to the poet by his
sister, a bronze handbell and a
treasured inkstand (see p39).
Embellished with the figure of
an Ethiopian boy, the inkstand
is a reminder of Pushkin’s great
grandfather, Abram Hannibal.
Bought by the Russian ambas-
sador in Constantinople as a North façade of Imperial Stables (left) and Little Stable Bridge on the Moyka
SENNAYA PLOSHCHAD
T he western part of St Petersburg St Nicholas’ Cathedral, which stands
is an area of contrasts, home to on the site of the naval parade ground.
some of the city’s wealthiest res- Theatre Square has been a hub of enter-
idences and most poverty-stricken tainment since the mid-18th century.
dwellings. The palatial It is dominated by the
architecture along the prestigious Mariinskiy
English Quay is a world Theatre and the Rimsky-
away from the decrepit Korsakov Conservatory,
living quarters around where many of Russia’s
Coat of arms on
bustling Sennaya ploshchad, greatest artists began their
Yusupov Palace
which have changed little since careers. Before 1917, the
Dostoevsky (see p123) described them. streets leading off the square were
In between lies the old maritime quar- home to theatre directors, actors, bal-
ter, once inhabited by Peter the Great’s lerinas, artists and musicians. Today,
shipwrights, many of whom were performing artists are once more
English. This area extended all the way returning to live in this shady backwa-
from the New Holland warehouses to ter, attracted by the peace of the tree-
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Cathedrals Theatres
St Nicholas’ Cathedral 2 Mariinskiy Theatre p119 1
Historic Buildings and Areas Palaces

Main Post Office 8 Y
Yusupov Palace 4
New Holland 6
Conservatory 3 Streets and Squares
The Choral Bolshaya Morskaya Ulitsa 9
Synagogue 5 The English Quay 7
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See pp116–17
q Metro 0 metres 600
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Gilded Baroque interior of the upper church of St Nicholas’ Cathedral

Street-by-Street: Theaa tre Square

Theatre Square was once kn nown as Carousel
Square and was frequently used as the site for fairs
and festivals. During the 199th century when St
Petersburg became the culturral capital of Russia,
R
the Mariinskiy Theatre and Riimsky-Korsakov
Conservatory were establisheed, and the neigh-
bourhood became home to many artists. Today,T
the tradition of entertainmentt is still thriving
and Theatre Square remains a focal point
for theatrical and musical lifee (see p202).
Atlas on Nearby, the tree-lined canaal embank-
prospekt ments and the gardens surrrounding
Rimskovo-
Korsakova
the beautiful St Nicholas’ Cathedral
are enchanting places to sttroll.
The Monument to
Rimsky-Korsakov,
whoo taught at the
Connservatory for 37
yearrs, was designed by
niamin Bogolyubov
Ven
and
d Vladimir Ingal and
ereccted in 1952.
Yusupov Palace
Historic site of the gruesome murder off Rasputin
(see p121), this grand palace belonged to the
wealthy Yusupov family. Its opulent inteeriors
include this Italian marble stair-
case and a tiny Rococo theatre 4
Rimsky-Korsakov Conservatory
Tchaikovsky, Prokofiev and
Shostakovich (see p43) were
among the talents nurtured by
Russia’s first conservatory,
founded in 1862 by pianist and
composer Anton Rubinstein 3
Monument to
Mikhail Glinka
(see p44)
. Mariinskiy Theatre
This theatre has been home to
the world-famous
- Mariinskiy
(Kirov) Opera and Ballet
Company since 1860. Hidden
behind its imposing façade is
the sumptuous auditorium where
many of Russia’s greatest dancers
(see p118) have performed 1
S E N N AYA P L O S H C H A D 117
The Lion Bridge (Lviny Most) is PALACE

one of a number of quaint and Ne
va EMBANKMENTT
curious suspension bridges on GOSTINYY

G
DVOR
the narrow, tree-lined Griboedov
canal (see p36). These bridges
SENNAYA
YA PLOSHCHAD
are well-known meeting places,
notably for romantic trysts.
LOCATOR MAP
See Street Finder, map 5
The House of Michel Fokine at

No. 109 is where the renowned STAR SIGHT
ballet-master and choreographer
lived before the Revolution. . Mariinskiy Theatre
The Benois House belonged

to an artistic dynasty which
included the co-founder of
the World of Art movement,
Alexandre Benois (see p107).
The Belfry, an elegant

four-tiered structure with
a gilded spire, was built to
mark the main entrance to
St Nicholas’ Cathedral.
S Nicholas’ Cathedral
St
A fine example of 18th-
ccentury Russian Baroque,
tthe lofty upper church is
rrichly decorated with icons,
ggilding and this carved
iiconostasis. The lower church,
bbeautifully lit with candles,
iis also open for worship 2
KEY
Suggested route
holas market, characterized

The former Nich
by its long arcaade and steep roof, was con-
structed in 1788–9. In the 19th century it
0 metres 100
became an uno official labour exchange as
many unemplo oyed workers gathered here.
0 yards 100
Ballet in St Petersburg
Admired throughout the world, Following the 1905 Revolution,
Russian ballet traces its origins a reaction against Classicism
back to 1738 when a French led to an increasing num-
dancing master, Jean-Baptiste ber of defections from the
Landé, established a school Imperial theatres to the new
in St Petersburg to train the private companies like Sergey
children of palace employees. Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes. The dis-
The Imperial Ballet School, as it persion of talent increased after
soon became known, flourished Matilda the Bolsheviks seized power in
under a string of distinguished Kshesinskaya’s 1917 and many artists went into
foreign teachers, culminating in ballet shoes exile abroad. Fortunately for
Marius Petipa (1818–1910). Petipa first Soviet Russia, the distinguished prima
joined the school in 1847 as a principal ballerina Agrippina Vaganova remained
dancer and later choreographed over 60 to train the next generation of dancers.
ballets, inspiring such famous dancers St Petersburg’s Russian Ballet Academy
as Matilda Kshesinskaya (see p72). now bears her name (see p110).
Anna Pavlova’s (1885–1931)

most famous role, The Dying
Swan, was created especially
for her by Michel Fokine. In
1912 Pavlova left Russia to
form her own touring company,
spreading her enthusiasm for
ballet throughout Europe.
Vaslaw Nijinsky (1890–1950)

had one of his greatest roles as
the golden slave in Schéhérazade
which took Paris by storm in
1910. A principal of the Ballets
Russes before World War I, he
revolutionized male roles. His
incomparable technical skills
and expressive qualities
influenced future gener-
ations of dancers.
Rudolf Nureyev
(1938–93), seen here
in Sleeping Beauty
at the Mariinskiy,
defected to the West in
1961. As both choreo-
grapher and dancer,
Nureyev continued to
enthral audiences for
over 30 years until
his death in 1993.
The Mariinskiy Ballet, usually known abroad as

the Kirov, is now reviving some of the original
productions of the Ballets Russes, including their
version of Giselle, previously not shown in Russia.
THE BALLETS RUSSES

The legendary touring com-
pany which revolutionized
ballet between 1909 and
1929 was the brainchild
of the impresario and art
critic Sergey Diaghilev
4 .Diaghilev found
(see p43)
a kindred spirit in the cho-
reographer Michel Fokine,
who shared his vision of a
spectacle that would fuse
music, ballet and decor in
a seamless artistic whole.
Diaghilev had the pick of
dancers from the Mariinskiy
and, in 1909, he brought
his Ballets Russes to Paris. One of Russia’s most important cultural institutions, the Mariinskiy Theatre
The company went from
strength to strength with Mariinskiy Theatre 1 atlantes, cherubs and cameo
successful tours worldwide. Мариинский театр medallions has remained un-
Diaghilev’s new com- changed since the theatre’s
Mariinskiy teatr
pany had a remarkable completion, and the imperial
impact on the contempo- Teatralnaya ploshchad. Map 5 B3. eagles have been restored to
rary art world. The ballets Tell 346 4141. @ 3, 22, 27. the royal box. The ceiling
of Fokine, in particular,  5, 22. v 11, K-3, K-22, K-312. painting of dancing girls and
prepared audiences for ¢ for re-construction until late cupids by Italian artist Enrico
greater innovation and 2008. For information on perfor- r Franchioli dates from c.1856,
experiment. Exciting contri- mances, see p202. & - = ^ while the superb stage curtain
butions from costume and www.mariinsky.ru was added during Russian
set designers Léon Bakst ballet’s golden age in 1914.
and Alexandre Benois, the This historic building should Equally remarkable is the
composer Igor Stravinsky re-open after building work in glittering festive foyer,
and the dancers Vaslaw the autumn of 2008. decorated with fluted
Nijinsky, Anna Pavlova Named in honour of pilasters, bas-reliefs of
and Tamara Karsavina all Tsarina Maria Alexan- Russian composers and
played a part in expanding drovna, wife of mirrored doors.
back the artistic frontiers. Alexander II, the Although the
After Diaghilev’s death in theatre is known Mariinskiy is better
1929, the Ballets Russes abroad by its Soviet known abroad for its
fragmented but its ethos title, the Kirov, ballet company, it is
and traditions have been while at home it has also one of the
preserved in many of reverted to its Imperial eagle on country’s leading
today’s leading companies. original name, the the royal box opera houses. Most of
Mariinskiy Theatre. the great 19th-century
The building was erected in Russian operas were premiered
1860 by the architect Albert here, including Mussorgsky’s
Kavos, who designed the Boris Godunovv (1874),
Bolshoy Theatre in Moscow. Tchaikovsky’s Queen of Spades
It stands on the site of an (1890), and Shostakovich’s
earlier theatre which was controversial opera Lady
destroyed by fire. In 1883–96, Macbeth of Mtsenskk (1934).
the Neo-Renaissance
façade was re-
modelled by Viktor
Schröter, who added
most of the orna-
mental detail. The
pale blue and gold
auditorium, where
so many illustrious
dancers have made
their debut, creates a
Early 20th-century programme dazzling impres-
for the Ballets Russes sion. Its archi-
tectural decoration The Mariinskiy’s luxuriant stage curtain,
of twisted columns, designed by Aleksandr Golovin in 1914
St Nicholas’
Cathedral 2
Никольский собор
Nikolskiy sobor
Nikolskaya ploshchad. Map 5 C4.

Tell 714 0862, 714 2175. @ 3, 22.
v 1, 11. # 6am–7:30pm daily.
This stunning Baroque cathe-
dral by Savva Chevakinskiy,
one of Russia’s great 18th-
century architects, was built in
1753–62. Founded for sailors
and Admiralty employees
housed in the neighbourhood,
and named after St Nicholas,
the patron saint of sailors, the
cathedral became known as
the “Sailors’ Church”.
The beautiful exterior is dec-
orated with white Corinthian
pilasters and surmounted by
five gilded cupolas. Nearby, Islamic arches and coffered ceiling in the Moorish Room, Yusupov Palace
within the cathedral’s leafy
grounds and overlooking the The most impressive feature is reminder that the conservato-
intersection of the Kryukov the magnificent gilded icono- ry stands on the original site
and Griboedov canals, is a stasis dating from 1755–60. where Russia’s first opera,
slender four-tiered bell tower r was
Glinka’s A Life for the Tsar,
crowned by a spire. premiered in 1836 in the old
Following the Russian tradi- Rimsky-Korsakov Kamennyy (Stone) Theatre.
tion, there are two churches Conservatory 3
within the cathedral. The lower Консерватория имени
church, intended for daily use, Римского-Корсакова Yusupov Palace 4
is lit by icon lamps, candles Konservatoriya imeni ЮсуповскиC дворец
and chandeliers, creating a Yusupovskiy dvorets
Rimskovo-Korsakova
magical effect. The icons
(1755–7) are the work of the Naberezhnaya reki Moyki 94.
Teatralnaya ploshchad 3. Map 5 B3.
brothers Fedot and Menas Map 5 B3. Tell 314 9883. @ 3, 22,
Tell 312 2519. @ 3, 22, 27.  5,
Kolokolnikov. In total contrast, 27. v 1, 11. # 11am–5pm daily.
22. v 1, 11. # for performances
the upper church, used mainly & English (audio tours only).
only. & 8 by appt (Tel
( l 312 2507).
on Sundays and for weddings,
has a brighter, airy feel and a Russia’s oldest music school, Overlooking the Moyka, this
typically Baroque exuberance, the conservatory was yellow, colonnaded building
with gilt and stucco ornamen- founded in 1862 by the piano (1760s) was designed by
tation and Italianate paintings. virtuoso Anton Rubinstein Vallin de la Mothe. The palace
(1829–94). The present build- was acquired in 1830 by the
ing was designed in 1896 by aristocratic Y
Yusupov family to
Vladimir Nicolas. house their superb collection
Among those to graduate of paintings. Major work was
from the school before the then carried out on the inte-
Revolution were Tchaikovsky rior by Andrey Mikhaylov and
(see p42)) and Sergey Prokofiev. Ippolito Monighetti.
In the Soviet years, the school The interiors, notable among
continued to flourish, and them the exotic Moorish Room,
the greatest musical figure to with its fountain, mosaics and
emerge from this era was com- arches, can be viewed by
poser Dmitriy Shostakovich guided or audio tour only.
(1906–75) (see p43). Separate tickets are needed
In the forecourt outside the for the tour of the cellars,
school are two statues. On the which house an exhibition on
left, a 1952 memorial honours Grigoriy Rasputin, the infamous
the school’s influential teacher, “holy man” who was murdered
Nikolai Rimsky-Korsakov, here by Prince Felix Yusupov.
Y
after whom the conservatory The elegant, Rococo-style
is now named. On the right, family theatre seats just 180,
The pale blue and white Baroque the statue of Mikhail Glinka and attending a concert (see
façade of St Nicholas’ Cathedral (1906) by Robert Bach is a p202)) is an experience in itself.
Moyka which
THE GRIM DEATH creates an
OF RASPUTIN atmospheric
The Russian peasant and entrance to the
mystic Grigoriy Rasputin timber yard. Barges
(1869–1916) exercised an would pass through
extraordinarily powerful the arch and into a
influence over the court turning basin
and government of Russia
R beyond, then return
(see p26). The mysterious loaded with timber
circumstances of his drama- along the canals
tic death on 17 December Vallin de la Mothe’s impressive arch on the towards the
1916 are legendary. Lured Moyka, leading into New Holland Admiralty ship-
to YYusupov’s palace on yards. Today the
the pretext of a party, prayer to survive the repres- overgrown and inaccessible
Rasputin was poisoned, sions of the 1930s. It continued island holds a certain charm
then shot by Prince Felix to function even during the in its isolation.
Yusupov and left for dead.
Y Siege of 1941; the community
Returning to the scene the remaining largely intact whilst
prince found Rasputin still other Jewish communities in The English
g Quay
Q y 7
alive and a struggle ensued Eastern Europe were decim- Английская набережная
before Rasputin disappear- ated. Today, the Synagogue Angliyskaya naberezhnaya
ed into the courtyard. still has an active community.
Pursued by the Map 5 A2. v 11, K-154, K-124, K-186.
conspirators he was
shot another three New Holland 6 English merchants settled
times and brutally Новая Голландия here in the 1730s, and were
battered before Novaya Gollandiya soon followed by craftsmen,
being dumped in architects, artists, innkeepers
the river. When Naberezhnaya reki Moyki and factory owners. By 1800
his corpse was 103. Map 5 B3. @ 3, 22. the area was one of the city’s
found three days v 1, 11, 31, 42. most fashionable addresses.
later, clinging to It still boasts impressive
the supports of Created when the buildings. The Neo-Classical
a bridge, water Kryukov canal was mansion at No. 10 was the fic-
in his lungs constructed between the tional setting for the debutante
indicated death Moyka and Neva rivers ball of Natasha Rostova in
by drowning. in 1719, this triangular Tolstoy’s novel War and Peace.
T
island was originally No. 28 was occupied by the
used for storing ship timber. lover of ballet dancer Matilda
Choral Synagogue 5 The name is in honour of the Kshesinskaya (see p72), and is
Хоральная Синаrоrа Dutch shipbuilders who the former headquarters of the
Khoralnaya Sinagoga inspired Peter the Great’s Socialist-Revolutionary Party.
naval ambitions. On ploshchad T Truda, the
Lermontovskiy prospekt 2. In 1765, the original former palace of Grand Duke
Map 5 B3. @ 3, K-3, 6, 22, K-22, wooden warehouses were Nikolai Nikolaevich (son of
27, K-27, T-169, T-180. rebuilt in red brick by Savva Nicholas I) was given in 1917
Chevakinskiy. At the same to the trades unions. No. 44,
In 1826 T Tsar Nicholas I decreed time Vallin de la Mothe Rumyantsev Palace, is part of
that all Jews, save 29 employed designed the austere but the State Museum of the
on behalf of the Court, be romantic arch facing onto the History of St Petersburg.
exiled from St Petersburg.
Further “purifications” took
place in the 1830s. However,
after Nicholas’ death in 1855
the Jewish population grew
rapidly and in 1879 a site was
approved for a permanent
house of prayer. Designed in
Moorish style by architects
Ivan Shaposhnikov and Viktor
Shreter, the Synagogue opened
in 1893, by which time the
Jewish community had reached
16,500, nearly 2% of the city’s
population. Accommodating
1,200 or more, the Synagogue
was the only Jewish place of Quarenghi’s grand porticoed façade, at No. 32 on the English Quay
Main Post Office 8 delicate iron tracery and a

Главпочтамт beautiful mosaic frieze of
Glavpochtamt pink flowers. This is the work
of Mikhail Geisler and Boris
Pochtamtskaya ulitsa 9. Map 5 C2. Guslistiy, dating from 1901–2.
Tell 312 8302. @ 3, 22.  5, 22. It was in this mansion that the
¢ for restoration. celebrated émigré novelist
Vladimir Nabokov (1899–1977)
The building is closed for grew up, and there is a small
renovation, but the exterior is museum to him on the first
worth a visit. Its main feature floor. Admired for his linguis-
is the arched gallery spanning tic ingenuity in both English
Pochtamtskaya ulitsa. Built as and Russian, Nabokov hit the
an extension to Nikolay Lvov’s headlines across the world
main building, the gallery with the publication of Lolita,
was added by Albert Kavos his succès de scandalee of 1959.
in 1859. Under the Pochtamt Next door at No. 45 is the
(Post Office) sign on the arch Union of Composers, the for-
is a clock showing the time in mer home of socialite Princess
major cities around the world. Gagarina who lived here in
Inside the post office, behind the 1870s. The mansion was
Lvov’s porticoed Neo-Classical reconstructed in the 1840s by
façade of 1782–9, is a splendid A
Auguste- Ricard de Montferrand,
Style-Moderne hall character- and it retains elements of the
ized by decorative ironwork original 18th-century building.
and a glass ceiling over the Montferrand also built the
vast, tiled floor space. The hall former residence of millionaire
was created in the early 20th industrialist Pyotr Demidov at
century when a roof was Stone atlas at No. 43 Bolshaya No. 43. A mass of Renaissance
constructed over what was Morskaya ulitsa (1840) and Baroque elements, with
originally the courtyard stables. atlantes, vases, winged glories
The mansion at No. 61 was and rustication, the façade also
built by Albert Kavos in the has Demidov’s coat of arms.
1840s for the St Petersburg
Stage Coach Company. No. 52,
nearby, was acquired by the Sennaya Ploshchad 0
Russian Union of Architects in Сенная площадь
1932. Built by Aleksandr Pel Sennaya ploshchad
in 1835–6, it was formerly the
residence of the celebrated Map 6 D3. q Sennaya Ploshchad,
patron of the arts Aleksandr Sadovaya.
Polovtsov, who built up the
impressive collection of the This is one of the oldest
Stieglitz Museum (see p127). squares in St Petersburg. The
The striking late 19th-century square’s name, meaning
interiors with mahogany pan- Haymarket, derives from the
elling, tapestries and carved original market where live-
ceilings were designed by stock, fodder and firewood
Maximilian Messmacher and were sold which opened in
Porticoed façade, Main Post Office Nikolay Brullo and can be the 1730s. Although fairly close
admired from the Nikolay to the city centre, the area
restaurant within. around the square was inhab-
Bolshaya Morskaya Just across the street, No. 47 ited by the poor and the
Ulitsa 9 is a particularly fine example market was the cheapest and
Большая Морская улица of Style-Moderne architecture liveliest in the city (the so-called
Bolshaya Morskaya ulitsa with sculpted stone rosettes, “belly of St Petersburg”). The
Map 5 C2. @ 3, 22, 27.
Always one of St Petersburg’s

most fashionable streets,
shady Bolshaya Morskaya ulitsa
is the choice of the artistic
elite to this day. It has some
exceedingly handsome 19th-
century mansions hidden away
between St Isaac’s Square (see
p79) and Pochtamtskiy most. Style-Moderne mosaic frieze at No. 47 Bolshaya Morskaya ulitsa (1901–2)
FYODOR
DOSTOEVSKY
One of Russia’s greatest
writers, Fyodor Dostoevsky
(see pp43–4) was born in
1821 in Moscow but spent
most of his adult life in St
Petersburg, where many of
his novels and short stories
are set. A defining moment
in his life occurred in 1849
when he was arrested and
charged with revolution-
ary conspiracy. After eight The guardhouse on bustling Sennaya ploshchad
months of solitary confine-
ment in the Peter and Paul
Fortress (see pp66–7),
contemptuous hero of the
novel, Raskolnikov, wanders
Railway Museum q
Музей железнодорожного
Dostoevsky and 21 other around the market, he ab-
“conspirators” from the транспорта
sorbs the “heat in the street….
socialist Petrashevsky Circle the airlessness, the bustle and Muzey zheleznodorozhnovo
were subjected to a maca- the plaster, scaffolding, bricks transporta
bre mock execution before and dust…. that special St
Sadovaya ulitsa 50. Map 6 D4.
being exiled to hard labour Petersburg stench…. and the
Tell 315 1476. q Sennaya
in Siberia until 1859. The numerous drunken men”
Ploshchad, Sadovaya. # 11am–5pm
sinister experience is re- which “completed the revol-
Sun–Thu. 8 English.
called in his novel The Idiot ting misery of the picture”.
(1868). He died in 1881. The novel was finished in
1866 while Dostoevsky was More than 6,000 fascinating
living at Alonkin’s House, exhibits illustrate the history
(No. 7 Przhevalskovo ulitsa), of the Russian railway system
to the west of the square. since 1813. The most
During the Soviet era the interesting sections of the
square was given a new image, museum deal with the earliest
stallholders were banished, railways, including Russia’s
trees were planted and it was first from Tsarskoe Selo to
optimistically renamed Peace St Petersburg which began run-
Square (ploshchad Mira). The ning in 1837, and the 650-km
five-storey, yellow and white (404-mile) line from Moscow
apartment blocks that surround to St Petersburg (1851).
the square today were also Exhibits include models of
built then, in Stalin’s version the first Russian steam engine,
of Neo-Classicism. Sadly, in built by the Cherepanovs in
1961, the square’s most attrac- 1834, and of an armoured train
tive monument, the Baroque used by T Trotsky in the defence
oldest building, at the centre Church of the Assumption, of the city during the Civil War
of the square, is the former built in 1765, was pulled down (see p27). An insight into lux-
guardhouse, a single-storey to make way for one of the ury travel in the late tsarist
Neo-Classical building with a city’s earliest period can be gained from the
columned portico, which metro stations. walk-through section of a first-
dates to 1818–20. The guards- class sleeping compartment
men’s duties ranged from with velvet upholstery and
supervising the traders to Style-Moderne decoration.
flogging serfs, mostly for
minor misdemeanours. By
that time the neighbourhood
had become synonymous
with dirt, squalor, crime and
vice. At No. 3 is the site of
“Vyazemskiy’s Monastery”,
the nickname for a notori-
ous tenement overrun with
pubs, gambling dens and
brothels in the 1850s and ‘60s.
This was the squalid world
so vividly evoked in Fyodor
Dostoevsky’s masterpiece
Crime and Punishment. As the Model of 1830s engine for the Tsarskoe Selo railway, Railway Museum
FUR THER AFIELD

W hile the majority
of St Petersburg’s
sights are centrally
located, the outlying areas of
the city have a number of
Southeast of the centre lies the
Alexander Nevsky Monastery
where many of Russia’s cele-
brated artists, architects and
composers are buried.
places of architectural, cultur- The southern suburbs offer
al and historical importance. a strikingly different perspec-
To the east is the Smolnyy tive of the city, with rows of
district, taking its name from pompous 1930s–50s houses,
the tar yard which supplied Ceramic tile from 1770s a reminder that Stalin sought
the city’s embryonic ship- stove, Stieglitz Museum to destroy the city’s historical
building industry in the 18th heart by relocating the centre
century. The highlight of this area is from the old imperial district to the area
Rastrelli’s dazzling Baroque Smolnyy around Moskovskaya ploshchad. The
Convent. Nearby, the Smolnyy Institute south also has the Chesma Church and
is famed for its historic role as the the 1970s Victory Monument, a memo-
Bolshevik headquarters during the rial to the suffering of St Petersburgers
October Revolution (see pp28–9). during the Siege of Leningrad.
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Palaces
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The Baroque Sheremetev Palace on the east bank of the Fontanka river
Isayeva and Robert Taurit. On

the wall behind are verses
composed by Olga Bergholts,
herself a survivor of the Siege.
The funereal music broadcast
over the whole cemetery adds
to the sombre atmosphere.
On either side of the avenue
are 186 grassy mounds, each
with a granite slab marking
the year and indicating, with
East façade of Yelagin Palace with Srednaya Nevka river in foreground a red star or hammer and
sickle, whether those interred
Yelagin Palace 1 In the Soviet period, the whole
of the wooded island became
were soldiers or civilians.
Елагин дворец
Yelagin dvorets the Central Park of Culture and
Rest (see pp136–7). Festivals
Yelagin ostrov 1. Tell 430 1131.
and public entertainments are
q Krestovskiy ostrov.
held here, and there is an
# 10am–5pm Wed–Sun. &
exhibition of decorative art in
7 to ground floor. 8
the palace’s former stables.
One of the northernmost

islands of St Petersburg, Piskarevskoe
Yelagin Island is named after
Y Memorial Cemetery 2
a court official who built a Пискаревское мемориальное
palace here at the end of the кладбище
18th century. Alexander I then Piskarevskoe memorialnoe
bought the island in 1817 for
his mother, Maria Fyodorovna, kladbishche
and commissioned Carlo Rossi
Prospekt Nepokorennykh 74.
to rebuild the palace. The mag-
Tell 247 5716. q Akademicheskaya.
nificent Neo-Classical palace Locomotive 293, Finland Station
@ 123, 178. # 24 hours daily.
(1818–22), enlivened on the
Memorial halls 10am–5pm daily. 8
east façade by a half rotunda Finland Station 3
flanked by Corinthian porti- This vast, bleak cemetery is Финляндский вокзал
coes, is part of an ensemble a memorial to the two million Finlyandskiy vokzal
which includes an orangery, people who died during the
a horseshoe-shaped stable Siege of Leningrad, 1941–4 Ploshchad Lenina 6. Map 3 B3.
block and porticoed kitchens. (see p27). With little food q Ploshchad Lenina.
The palace interior was de- and no electricity, water or See also p221.
stroyed by fire during World heating, the citizens of
War II but is now undergoing Leningrad perished in vast On the night of 3 April
restoration. The Oval Hall is numbers from starvation, cold 1917, the exiled Vladimir
resplendent with statuary and and disease. Thousands of Lenin and his Bolshevik com-
trompe l’oeils while the rooms corpses were dragged on panions arrived at Finland
leading from it are exquisitely sledges to collection points Station after travelling from
decorated with stucco, faux from where they were taken Switzerland on a sealed train.
marbree and painted friezes, for burial to mass cemeteries A triumphant reception await-
executed by a collective of on the outskirts of town. ed their return to Russia and,
gifted artists and craftsmen. Piskarevskoe was the largest, on leaving the station, Lenin
with 490,000 burials. spoke to cheering crowds of
Today the cemetery is a soldiers, sailors and workers.
place of pilgrimage for those A statue erected outside the
who lost relatives and friends station in 1926 depicts Lenin
during those desperate times. delivering his speech.
The memorial complex, de- The modern terminal was
signed by Y Yevgeniy Levinson opened in the 1960s. On plat-
and Aleksandr Vasiliev, opened form 5 there is a huge glass
in 1960, on the 15th anniver- case containing Locomotive
sary of the end of the war. 293 which Lenin rode when
Two memorial halls, one of fleeing the capital for a second
which contains an exhibition time in July 1917. After spend-
on the Siege, flank the stairs ing the summer as a fugitive
down to a 300-m (984-ft) long in Russian Finland, Lenin
avenue, which culminates in returned on the same train
Statue of Mother Russia (1956–60), a towering, heroic bronze and spurred on the October
Piskarevskoe Memorial Cemetery statue of Mother RRussia by Vera Revolution (see pp28–9).
F U R T H E R A F I E L D 127
Stieglitz Museum 4 monuments, such as St Mark’s

Library in Venice, the Raphael
Neo-Gothic cabinet is a
beautiful example. Its finely
Музей Штиглица
Loggias of the Vatican and the inlaid doors, depicting church
Muzey Shtiglitsa
Villa Madama, also in Rome. naves in skilful perspective,
Solyanoy pereulok 13. Map 3 A5. After the Revolution the open to reveal sculpted
Tell 273 3258. @ 46. v 90. school was closed and the biblical scenes.
# Aug–May: 11am–4:30pm museum became a branch of One way to end your visit
Tue–Sat. & 8 the Hermitage (see pp84–93). is with a look at the stunning
Serious damage to the building Grand Exhibition Hall with its
The millionaire industrialist was inflicted during the Siege curving staircase of Italian mar-
Baron Aleksandr Stieglitz of Leningrad (see p27) and ble and magnificent glass roof.
founded the Central School of restoration continues. At the
Industrial Design end of the war
in 1876. His aim the school was Cathedral of the
was to provide revived to train Transfiguration
g 5
a top quality gilders and Спасо-Преображенский
collection of carvers for the собор
original works for huge restoration Spaso-Preobrazhenskiy sobor
the use of Russian programme needed
students of applied to repair the Preobrazhenskaya ploshchad 1. Map
arts and design. damaged city. 3 B5. Tell 272 3662. q Chernyshev-
With a large bud- 19th-century crystal Situated on the skaya. @ 46, K- K 76.  3, 8, 15.
K 15, K-
get and the good vase, Stieglitz Museum ground floor, the v 90. # 8am–8pm daily.
taste of Stieglitz’s exhibition features
son-in-law, Aleksandr opulent displays of glassware, Despite its monumental
Polovtsovv (see p122), the col- ceramics and majolica, as well Neo-Classicism, and the
lection, unusual in covering as porcelain from all the great surrounding fence made of
both Western European and European manufacturers. One guns captured during the
Oriental art, soon outgrew the room, decorated in the style Russo-Turkish wars (see p22),
school and in 1896 a Museum of the medieval Terem Palace Vasiliy Stasov’s church has an
of Applied Arts opened next in the Kremlin, provides a sup- intimate air as it nestles in its
door. This magnificent build- erb backdrop for a collection leafy square. The original
ing, designed by Maximilian of colourfully embroidered church on this site was built
Messmacher, was inspired by dresses and headgear made by Tsarina Elizabeth to honour
Italian Renaissance palaces. by Russian peasant women. the Preobrazhenskiy Guards,
Inside, the halls and galleries Some pieces of decorative but it was rebuilt after a fire
were decorated in an impress- metalwork including locks, in 1825. Today, the church is
ive variety of national and keys and craft tools date back famous for its excellent choir,
period styles, echoing French to the Middle Ages. The work- which is second only to that
and German Baroque and, manship seen on the wooden in the Alexander Nevsky
above all, Italian Renaissance furniture is breathtaking. The Monasteryy (see pp130–31).
Dolls in 17th–19th century Russian folk costumes, in front of the Terem Room, Stieglitz Museum
Tauride Palace 6
Таврический дворец
Tavricheskiy dvorets
Shpalernaya ulitsa 47. Map 4 D4.

q Chernyshevskaya.
@ 46, 136, K-76. ¢ to public.
This finely proportioned

palace by Ivan Starov was
built in 1783–9 as a present
from Catherine the Great to
her influential lover Prince
Grigoriy Potemkin (see p25).
Potemkin had successfully Façade of the Smolnyy Cathedral with adjacent convent buildings
annexed the Crimea ((Tauris) to
Russia in 1783 and was given Smolnyy Convent 7 stopped. It was only in 1835
the title of Prince of Tauris, Смольный монастырь that Nicholas I commissioned
hence the palace’s name. Smolnyy monastyr the Neo-Classical architect
Uncompromising in its lack Vasiliy Stasov to complete the
of external ornamentation, the Ploshchad Rastrelli 3/1. Map 4 F4. cathedral. His austere white
long, yellow building with its Tell 577 1422. @ 46, 136, K-76. interior contrasts dramatically
distinctive six-columned por- # 10am–5pm Tue–Thu. & 7 with the luxuriant exterior.
tico was one of Russia’s first 8 English. Exhibitions are now held
Neo-Classical designs. Sadly, here, as well as regular weekly
the magnificent interiors have The crowning glory of this concerts of church music (see
been badly damaged both architectural ensemble is the p202). There are spectacular
by Catherine’s son, Paul I, stunning cathedral with its views of the city from the
who turned the palace into a dome and four supporting cu- cathedral tower.
barracks, and by the many polas topped by golden orbs.
reconstructions undertaken. As a symbol of her majesty,
The palace has played a vital Tsarina Elizabeth founded the Smolnyy Institute 8
role in 20th-century cultural convent where many young Смольный Институт
and political life. In 1905, the noblewomen were to be Smolnyy Institut
impresario Sergey Diaghilev educated. It was designed in
(see p43) organized the first 1748 by Bartolomeo Rastrelli Ploshchad Proletarskoy Diktatury.
ever exhibition of R Russian 18th- (see p93), who conceived a Map 4 F4. Tell 276 1746, 576 7461.
century portraiture here. The brilliant fusion of Russian and @ 22, 46, 136, K-15, K-129, K-136,
following year the palace host- Western Baroque styles. Work K-147.  5, 7, 15, 16, 49. Smolnyy
ed R Russia’s first parliament, the advanced extremely slowly; Museum # 11am–4pm Mon–Fri by
State Duma. After the February 50,000 wooden piles were appt only. & 7 8 English.
Revolution of 1917 it became used to secure the foundations
the seat of the Provisional in the marshy soil and the Built in 1806–8 to house a
Government, then the Petro- architect’s model alone, now in school for young noblewomen
grad Soviet of Workers’ and the Academy of Arts (see p63), which had outgrown its pre-
Soldiers’ Deputies. Today it is took seven years to build. mises at the Smolnyy Convent,
still a government building. Catherine the Great disliked Giacomo Quarenghi
The lovely gardens, with Rastrelli’s work and had little considered this Neo-Classical
winding streams, bridges and sympathy for the late Elizabeth. building to be his masterpiece.
an artificial lake, are among When she came to power in It was from here, on 25
the city’s most popular parks. 1762, funding for the project October 1917, that Lenin direct-
ed the Bolshevik coup d’état
while the second All-Russian
Congress of Soviets was con-
vening in the Assembly Hall.
The Congress confirmed Lenin
in power and this was his seat
of government until March
1918. With the Germans
advancing and the outbreak
of civil warr (see p27), the gov-
ernment left for Moscow. The
Institute was taken over by the
Leningrad Communist Party.
On 1 December 1934, the First
Secretary of the party, Sergey
Kirovv (see p72), was murdered
View of Tauride Gardens and the Tauride Palace beyond the lake here, an event that was to
The museum’s exhibits include

a variety of period instruments
and a number of scores, some
of which are compositions by
the Sheremetevs themselves.
One of Russia’s greatest
20th-century poets, Anna
Akhmatova, lived in one of the
service blocks of the palace
from 1933 to 1941 and then
again between 1944 and 1954.
Her flat is open to the public as
the Anna Akhmatova Museum
(Muzey Anny Akhmatovoy)
and is reached through the
courtyard of No. 53 Liteynyy
prospekt. By the time she
moved into the palace, it had
been divided into dingy com-
munal apartments. The rooms
Isaak Brodskiy’s 1927 painting of Lenin, Smolnyy Institute Assembly Hall where she lived and worked
display some of her personal
provide cover for the purges of Marshal Boris Sheremetev, until possessions, which trace her
the late 1930s (see p27). the Revolution. The palace is intriguing life. Recordings of
The rooms where Lenin also known as the Fountain the poetess reading her own
lived and worked can be House, or Fontannyy dom, poems can also be heard.
viewed by appointment. The because of the many fountains
rest of the institute is now the that once adorned its grounds.
Mayor’s Office. The imperial The Baroque building dates
eagle has replaced the hammer from the 1750s when it was
and sickle, but the statue of designed by Savva Chevakin-
Lenin has survived. skiy and Fyodor Argunov,
although numerous later
alterations were made.
Sheremetev Palace 9 Field Marshal Sheremetev’s
Шереметевский дворец descendants were fabulously
Sheremetevskiy dvorets wealthy, at one time owning
some 200,000 serfs. They were
Naberezhnaya reki Fontanki 34. Map also among Russia’s leading
7 A1. Anna Akhmatova Museum artistic patrons and the palace
Tell 272 2211. q Mayakovskaya. is now home to the Museum
 3, 8, 15. v 12, 28, 54, 90. of Musical Life, which charts
the family’s contribution to ANNA AKHMATOVA
# 10:30am–6pm Tue–Sun. &
8 English. Museum of Musical the musical life of the city. In By 1914 Anna Akhmatova
Life Tell 272 4441. q Gostinyy Dvor. the 18th and 19th centuries, (1889–1966) was a leading
 3, 8, 15. v 12, 28, 54, 90. serf composers, musicians and light of Russia’s “Silver
# noon–5pm Wed–Sun. ¢ last actors from rural estates owned Age” of poetryy (see p44).
Wed of each month. & 8 by the family performed in Tragedy gave her work a
T
many concerts and plays at the new dimension when first
The Sheremetev family lived palace. Among those to praise her husband was shot by
on this site from 1712, when the fine Sheremetev choir the Bolsheviks, and then,
the palace was built by Field was the composer Franz Liszt. in the 1930s, her son and
her lover were arrested in
Stalin’s purges. Anna her-
self was placed under
police surveillance and
officially silenced for more
than 15 years. Her most
famous poem, Requiem
(1935–61), inspired by her
son’s arrest, was written in
fragments and distributed
amongst friends to memo-
rize. Anna was partially
rehabilitated late in her
life and received honorary
awards abroad in 1965.
Pilastered façade of Sheremetev Palace on the Fontanka embankment
Dostoevsky façade is decorated with

House-Museum 0 thin vertical stripes of
Музей Достоевского white moulding which
direct the eye upwards to
Muzey Dostoevskovo its zig-zagged crown and
Neo-Gothic cupolas.
Kuznechnyy pereulok 5/2. Map 7 B3.
The name commemo-
Tell 571 4031. q Vladimirskaya.
rates the great Russian
 3, 8, 15. v 49. # 11am–6pm
naval victory over the
Tue–Sun. & 8 English.
Turks at Chesma in the
This evocative museum Aegean in 1770. During
was the final home of the the Communist era the
famous RRussian writer, Fyodor church became a museum
Dostoevskyy (see p44), who to the battle, but today
lived here from 1878 until his the building is once
death in 1881. Dostoevsky again used as a church.
was then at the height of his On the opposite side
fame, and it was here that he of ulitsa Lensoveta is
completed his last great novel, the Neo-Gothic Chesma
The Brothers Karamazov, in Palace (1774–77), formerly
1880. Gambling and debts, Kekerekeksinen, or Frog
however, confined him to a Chesma Church (1777–80), a very early Marsh Palace. Also de-
fairly modest lifestyle in this example of Neo-Gothic in Russia signed by Velten, it served
five-roomed apartment. as a staging post for
Although Dostoevsky’s Chesma Church w Catherine the Great en route to
public persona was dour and Чесменская церковь Tsarskoe Selo (see pp152–5).
humourless, he was a devot- Chesmenskaya tserkov Wedgwood’s famous dinner
ed and affectionate husband service with its frog emblem,
and father. The delightful nurs- Ulitsa Lensoveta 12. q Moskovskaya. now in the Hermitage (see
ery contains a rocking horse, @ 16. v 29, 45. # 10am–7pm p91), was designed specially
silhouettes of his children and daily. for the Chesma Palace.
the book of fairy tales which The palace achieved noto-
he read aloud to them. In There is little Russian about riety when Rasputin’s body
Dostoevsky’s study are his the highly unusual Chesma lay in state here after his mur-
writing desk and a reproduc- Church, which was designed der in 1916 (see p121). Now
tion of his favourite painting, by YYuriy Velten in 1777–80. substantially altered, it serves
Raphael’s Sistine Madonna. Its fanciful terracotta-coloured as a home for the elderly.
Alexander Nevsky a stream and into the main statues by Fedot Shubin. This
monastic complex. The oldest leads to the impressive red
Monastery q building is the Church of the agate and white marble icono-
Александро-Невская лавра
Annunciation (1717–22), de- stasis, which features copies
Aleksandro-Nevskaya lavra signed by Domenico Trezzini.
T of works by Van Dyck, Rubens
R
The church, its ground floor and others. To the right of the
Ploshchad Aleksandra Nevskovo.
recently opened to the public, iconostasis is a silver reliquary
Map 8 E4. Tell 274 2635 or 274 1124.
was the burial place for non- that contains the remains of
q Ploshchad Aleksandra Nevskovo.
ruling members of the Russian
R Alexander Nevsky, transferred
@ 8, 27, 46.  1, 14, 16, 22. v 7,
royal family. A series of red
65. Holy Trinity Cathedral # 6am–
and white, mid-18th-century
8pm daily. Church of the Annuncia-
monastic buildings, including
tion Tell 274 2635. # 9:30am–
the Metropolitan’s House
5pm; closes 6pm in summer.
(1755–8), surround the
¢ Mon & Thu. & cemeteries &
courtyard. Among the
Church of the Annunciation. 8
trees in the courtyard
Founded by Peter the lie the graves of atheist
Great in 1710, this Soviet scholars and
monastery is named leading Communists.
after Alexander Dominating the
Nevsky, the prince of essentially Baroque
Novgorod, who complex is the twin-
defeated the Swedes towered and domed
in 1240. Peter himself Dostoevsky’s Neo-Classical Holy
defeated them again in tombstone Trinity Cathedral, con-
T
1709 (see p18). structed by architect
From the entrance, a path Ivan Starov in 1776–90. The
runs between two large, wide nave inside is flanked Reliquary with Alexander Nevsky’s
walled cemeteries, then across by Corinthian columns with remains, Trinity Cathedral
Victory Monument e the Siege (see p27), and its prises 900 dim, orange lamps,
Монумент Защитникам survivors. It was designed by one for each day of the Siege.
Ленинграда Sergey Speranskiy and Valentin On the marble walls are tablets
Kamenskiy and sculpted by inscribed with the names of
Monument Zashchitnikam
Mikhail Anikushin. A 48-m the 650 Heroes of the Soviet
Leningrada (157-ft) high obelisk of red Union who were awarded the
Ploshchad Pobedy. Tell 293 6563. granite is near a vast, circular title after the war; and a
q Moskovskaya. Memorial Hall enclosure which symbolizes mosaic depicts the women of
# 10am–6pm Thu & Sat–Mon, the vice-like grip of the siege. the city greeting their menfolk
10am–5pm Tue & Fri. ¢ last Tue of Sculptures of soldiers, sailors at the end of the conflict.
each month. 8 book by phone. and grieving mothers Around the hall a small
surround the monument. display of artifacts, including
Erected in 1975 to coincide An underpass on Moskovskiy Shostakovich’s violin (see p43),
with the 30th anniversary of prospekt leads to the gloomy, records the contribution of
the end of World War II, this is subterranean Memorial Hall. different sections of the com-
on the site of a temporary Here solemn music gives way munity to the war effort, while
triumphal arch built to greet to the persistent beat of a an illuminated relief map
the returning troops. Named metronome, the wartime radio illustrates the battle lines.
the Monument to the Heroic signal, intended to represent Most disturbing is the tiny
Defenders of Leningrad, it the city’s defiant heartbeat. piece of bread, which was
commemorates the victims of The subdued lighting com- many people’s daily ration.
Heroic partisans facing south towards the enemy during the Siege of Leningrad, detail of Victory Monument
to the previous church on TOMBS OF INTEREST AT TIKHVIN CEMETERY

this site in 1724. Behind the 1 Mikhail Glinka 7 Modest Mussorgsky
reliquary hangs a painting of (Composer, 1804–57) (Composer, 1839–81)
Nevsky, who has been vene- 2 Ivan Krylov Main
8 Nikolai Rimsky-
entrance
rated as a saint in R
Russia since (Poet, 1769–1844) Korsakov
the mid-16th century. 3 Marius Petipa (Composer, 1844–1908)
Many of the nation’s leading (Choreographer, 9 Fyodor Dostoevsky
1818–1910) (Writer, 1821–81)
cultural figures are buried in
4 Pyotr Klodt
the two monastic cemeteries (Sculptor, 1805–67)
near the main entrance. The 5 Ivan Kramskoy 
city’s oldest graveyard, the (Painter, 1837–87)
Lazarus Cemetery, to the east, 6 Pyotr Tchaikovsky
contains the graves of the (Composer, 1840–93)
polymath Mikhail Lomonosov
(see p45) and a number of
prominent architects, including
Andrey Zakharov, Thomas de
Thomon, Giacomo Quarenghi,
Carlo Rossi (see p110) and
Andrey Voronikhin. Clustered
together along the northern
wall of the Tikhvin Cemetery
(to the west) are the tombs of
some of Russia’s most famous
composers. Many of their
tombs are inscribed with musi-
cal motifs. Fyodor Dostoevsky KEY 0 metres 50
(see p44) is also buried here,  Gate church
to the right of the entrance. 0 yards 50
THREE GUIDED W
WA LKS
M any of St Petersburg’s sights
are best appreciated on foot.
The three walks chosen
present different aspects of the
city’s character, though water
The second walk explores Yelagin
and Kamennyy islands, where
Y
Petersburgers traditionally spend

much of their free time. The
islands to the north of the
plays a central part in each. centre were once the preserve of
The first walk follows the Moyka the rich, who spent the hot
river and the Griboedov canal, summers in the cool of their dachas.
which criss-cross the heart of Now locals come to walk and row
the city, and reveals the 19th-century urn on the boats in summer, to ski and
manificent scale of the steps of Yelagin Palace skate in winter, and simply to
buildings erected in the 18th breathe the fresh spring air.
and 19th centuries. It highlights the The third walk follows the river Neva
contrasts between rich palaces and on the Petrograd side, from where there
overcrowded apartment blocks, gilded are awe-inspiring views of the city’s
bridges and the dilapidation of the area grand south waterfront and of the river
around Sennaya ploshchad. An alter- itself. The walk encompasses some
native way to appreciate the glorious significant historic sites including
old buildings set on the canals is to Trinity Square, the Cabin of Peter the
take a boat
oat trip
p (see
(se pp
pp226
pp226–7).
7) Great and
a the
t cruiser Aurora.
South façade of Yelagin Palace
A 90-Minute Walk
Along the
Embankment
(se pp138–9)
(see
A Two-Hour Walk on
Kamennyy and Yelagin
Islands (see pp136–7)
A Two-Hour Walk
Along the City’s
Waterways
(see pp134–5)
KEY
KE
KEYY
Walk route
0 kilometres 1.5
A footbridge acrosss the
e Griboed
Griboedov
G boedov Canal
by Sennaya ploshchad 0 miles 1.5
Peace and tranquillity enjoyed on one of the lakes of Yelagin Island

A Two-Hour Walk Along the City’s Waterways

A stroll along the embankments of the Moyka river TIPS FOR WALKERS
and the Griboedov canal is a chance to appreciate the
history and splendid architecture of this beautiful city. The Starting point: Church on
Spilled Blood.
two waterways present interesting contrasts. The Moyka
Length: 5.8 km (3 miles).
winds past the Imperial Summer and Winter Palaces Getting there: Nevskiy Prospekt WB
and the lavish mansions of the aristocracy, while the /F
metro. Stopping-off points:
Griboedov is lined with 19th-century apartments, once Bistro Layma, nab kanala
home to merchants, civil servants and, towards Sennaya Griboedova 16.
Ploshchad (see p122), the working class. The walk also
includes a short stretch of the majestic Nevskiy prospekt. /"
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T H R E E G U I D E D WA L K S 135
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1&
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The yellow build- Across the

ing on the other Demidov most, on
side of the Moyka Griffons on Bank Bridge the corner of
is the Literary Café (1826), Griboedov canal Kaznacheyskaya
w, renowned as a ulitsa o (No.1),
meeting-place for writers in is the apartment where
Pushkin’s dayy (see p83). Dostoevsky wrote Notes from
the House of the Dead d (1861).
Nevskiy Prospekt Also with literary associations,
Turn left onto St Petersburg’s the former Zverkov House p
main street, where a range of was where the novelist and
architectural styles can be dramatist Nikolai Gogol (see
seen. On the left, the elegant p44) lived in the 1830s.
façade of Paul Jacot’s Dutch The walk ends in Sennaya
Apartment block where Dostoevsky Church building e (see p47) ploshchad (see p122), where
lived o, on the Griboedov canal hides a series of shops. Across there are two metro stations.
A Two-Hour Walk on Kamennyy and Yelagin Islands

An area of rolling parkland, birch and lime groves and the fashionable architect,
fine river views, the northern islands of the Neva delta Vladimir Apyshkov, to build
offer a retreat from city life. The imperial family built this splendid Style-Moderne
palaces on Kamennyy and Yelagin islands at the end of mansion in 1913–14.
the 18th century and were soon joined by wealthy aristo- Continue west, and cross
the canal bridge to reach the
cratic families. Before the Revolution, many government wooden Kamennoostrovskiy
ministers, industrial magnates and celebrities built them- Theatre 6 which took only
selves a dacha here. Today these neglected houses, some 40 days to erect in 1827. Its
intimate, some palatial, in styles ranging from Neo-Gothic Neo-Classical portico, rebuilt
to Neo-Classical and Style Moderne, are being returned by Albert Kavos in 1844, is
to their former glory by the new business elite. still impressive. The banks of
the Krestovka river, with views
across to the boatyards of
Krestovskiy Island, are ideal
for a picnic (admission is
charged at weekends). Return
to the path and cross 1-y
Yelagin most to Yelagin Island.
Yelagin Island
This island is an oasis of calm,
popular with those wishing
to escape the city. A tollgate
marks the entrance to the
grounds of Carlo Rossi’s
Wooden façade of Dolgorukov Mansion 3
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Kamennyy Island, an area of oldest aristocratic
recreation and relaxation. Just families. The two sphinxes
across the main road is the guarding the granite embank-
small red-brick Church of St ment date to 1824. From this
John the Baptist 1, designed point you can see across to
in Neo-Gothic style by Yuriy Aptekarskiy or Apothecary’s
Velten in 1776–8. Nearby a Island, named after the medi-
yellow gateway leads to the cinal herb gardens founded by
grounds of Kamennoostrovskiy Peter the Great. St Petersburg’s
Palace 2 (now a retirement Botanical Gardens are still
home) from where Alexander I located there. Continue along
led the 1812 Russian campaign the path, which turns into
against Napoleon (see p26). naberezhnaya reki Krestovki.
Follow Kamennoostrovskiy Standing in the middle of the
prospekt to the Malaya Nevka path are the remains of Peter
river, then turn right on to the Great’s oak tree 4, said to
naberezhnaya Maloy Nevki have been planted by the tsar
where there is an imposing in 1718. The house on the left,
wooden mansion 3 at No. 11 towards the Malo-krestovskiy
with a white-columned portico. most, is the former home of
The Dolgorukov Mansion was Sergey Chaev 5, the chief
built in 1831–2 by Smaragd engineer of the Trans-Siberian The tower of the Church of
Shustov for the Dolgorukovs, railway. Chaev commissioned St John the Baptist (1776–8) 1
North Kamennyy Island tented tower, was designed

Return to Kamennyy Island by Roman Meltzer in 1904
across 1-y Yelagin most, taking and now belongs to the
the left fork on to Teatralnaya Danish consulate. Yevgeniya
alleya from where you can Gausvald’s dacha 0 dates from
see the former mansion of 1898 and stands as one of the
Aleksandr Polovtsov 8, minis- earliest Style-Moderne build-
ter of foreign affairs under ings in St Petersburg. It was
Nicholas II. This splendid Neo- designed by Vasiliy Schöne
Classical mansion with and Vladimir Chagin.
Style-Moderne Finally, the last
Kamennoostrovskiy Theatre’s touches was built stage of the walk
impressive façade (1827) 6 by Ivan Fomin in leads along the
1911–13. Leave 2-ya Berezovaya
graceful Yelagin Palace 7 (see Teatralnaya alleya alleya, back to the
p126). The western spit of the and cut through starting point at
island is ideal for viewing the the quiet and Ushakovskiy most
spectacular sunsets over the restful park, pass- Early 20th-century and Chernaya
Gulf of Finland, especially during between the Polovtsov Mansion 8 Rechka
ec metro.
ing the White Nights (see p51). ponds and the
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Walk route
Q Metro station
TIPS FOR WALKERS

Starting point: Chernaya
Rechka metro station (see p215).
Length: 6 km (3.5 miles).
Stopping-off points: Café in
former stables of Yelagin Palace
(summer only) and plenty of
places to picnic.
The tree-shrouded grassy banks of the Krestovka river
A 90-Minute Walk Along the Embankment

Muscovites envy St Petersburgers their dramatic and open needle-sharp steeple of the
skyline, and this stroll along the northern banks of the Baroque Cathedral of SS Peter
Neva offers grand views, not only of the magnifi- and Paul 5. The bridge was
cent south waterfront, but also of the Petrograd completed in time for the
city’s bicentenary in 1903 by
Side, as seen from Trinity Bridge where it crosses the French firm Batignol,
the river at its widest point. In winter the Neva which also constructed the
lies frozen, an expanse of unending whiteness. Eiffel Tower.
In warmer months the water pulses hypnotically Return to the shore, and
through the city. The walk encompasses the stroll east along Petrovskaya
best of the city’s Style-Moderne architecture, the Embankment, passing the
Cabin of Peter the Great, the cruiser Aurora, Cabin of Peter the Great 6
whose guns began the 1917 Revolution, and (see p73). The tiny cabin was
built from pine logs in 3 days
Manchurian Lion 7 the train that brought Lenin to Russia.
Kamennoostrovskiy Prospekt Trinity Square

From Gorkovskaya metro Until the fall of the USSR, the
station, head past the kiosks, square was known as Revolu-
cross the road via the under- tion Square in memory of the
pass and walk south along 48 workers who were mown
Konverskiy pros
prospekt, an down here by government
d oveernment
avenue noted for its Style- ttroops. Walk alk onto Style
St -
Moderne architecture.
ectture Almost Moderne
M derne Tri
Trinityy Bridge
idg 4 (see
immediately, the mminarets of pp35)35 , which
35) ch spans thehe Neva at
the city’s only mosque
osq jut ut up itits
ts widest
w po
point and affords
for fine
ahead. Sobornaya M Mosque
osque 1 viewsews of the river and the
he Peter
eter Int
Interior of the tiny
annd Paul Fortress (see
see Cabin rea 6
abi of Peter the Great
re
pp66 . Look
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commissioned in 1906 for the
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Once the Bolshevik Party HQ,

from whose balcony Lenin
addressed the crowds, it now
houses the Museum of Russian
Political History with exhibits
from the Revolutionary era.
Take a right down ulitsa Kuy-
bysheva and then bear left
onto Kamennoostrovskiy pros-
pekt (see p70). To your left is
Trinity Square 3 (see p72), the
heart of the old city’s former
merchant quarter, and site of
the “Bloody Sunday” massacre
during the 1905 Revolution. The cruiser Aurora (1900) moored in front of the Nakhimov Naval Academy 9
View across the frozen River Neva featuring the golden dome of St Isaac’s Cathedral on the south embankment
in May 1703, and Peter lived shots that signalled the storm-
here for 6 years, supervising ing of the Winter Palace. This TIPS FOR WALKERS
the building of his city. The event brought the Bolsheviks Starting point: Sobornaya
brick shell was added later by to power in 1913. The battle- Mosque.
Catherine the Great. On the ship is now partly open and Getting there: Gorkovskaya
steps outside the cabin are contains a museum. metro station (see p223).
the Manchurian Lions 7, Further along the embank- Length: 3.5 km (2 miles).
two odd statues brought ment, the Neo-Baroque Stopping off points: There are
from Manchuria
Mancchu during the building
ild g o on the left is the places selling snacks along the
disastrous (fo
(for Russia) Nakhimov
khimov Naval Academy 9, north embankment, especially
Russo--Jap
Japanese War of builtt in
n 11910–11. around the cruiser Aurora and
1904–5. Now w ccross Sampsonievskiy the Cabin of Peter the Great.
03&/#63(4,":"
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mostt o onto Pirogovskaya nab.

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headquarters of the KGB.
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were passed on an
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citizens of
St Petersburg, who
were then executed
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no
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ŐŃń
HQ and a prison.
K
KEY Finally, walk across
Walk route the end of the walk. Ploshchad Lenina to
Continuing on foot, Finland Station
Metro station the embankment leads Statue of Lenin in w (see p126),
Tram stop down to Arsenalnaya Ploshchad Lenina q, home to the train
nab, past the Military near Finland Station that brought
Train station Medical Academy 0 – Lenin to Russia
built in the time of Tsar Paul I to lead the 1917 October
The Cruiser Aurora in a High-Classical style. Turn Revolution – and to alter the
Follow the embankment to left onto Ploshchad Lenina q. destiny of the largest country
Petrogradskaya nab and the In the centre of the square on earth. From here, it is a
historic old cruiser Aurora 8 stands one of the city’s few short walk to Ploshchad
(see p73), famous for firing the remaining statues of Lenin. Lenina metro station.
ST PETERSBURG
REPINO 146
ORANIENBAUM 146
GATCHINA 147
PETERHOF 148151
TSARSKOE SELO 152157
PAVLOVSK 158161
NOVGOROD 162165
B E Y O N D S T P E T E R S B U R G 143
BEYOND ST PETERSBURG
T
he countryside around St Petersburg is typical of northwest
Russia. Among its flat sweeps of land, pine forests and lakes
there are sights of cultural interest, including the imperial
palaces and the walled medieval city of Novgorod. Venturing away from
St Petersburg allows a richer and deeper insight into this splendid land.
Before St Petersburg was founded accommodate her extravagant balls,
in 1703, the surrounding landscape hence the grand Baroque palace
was a marshy and inhospitable at Tsarskoe Selo. Catherine the
wilderness, inhabited by wolves. Great’s love of intimacy led her
Nevertheless, the area from the to add private apartments to
Gulf of Finland to Lake Ladoga Tsarskoe Selo, and the exquisite
was of strategic importance for Chinese Palace at Oranienbaum.
trading and thus one of the rea- Paul I’s military mania made him
sons for continuous wars between turn Gatchina into a castle, while
Sweden and Russia. At the time his wife Maria Fyodorovna created
the only city of importance here a feminine, elegant residence at
was Novgorod, an independent Pavlovsk. All the palaces except
and quite wealthy principality Oranienbaum suffered devastating
(see p17). It has retained its Muse of love damage during World War II (see
medieval atmosphere, so dif- and poetry,
Pavlovsk
p27). A great deal of effort has
ferent from the imperial palaces been made to restore them pains-
adorning the countryside south of St takingly over the last 50 years.
Petersburg. They each reflect the tastes While the aristocracy indulged in
of their owners. Peter the Great’s fine their extravagances, the middle classes
residence, Peterhof, is dominated by had more modest country houses. The
water; the Gulf and the fountains comfortable dacha of the artist Repin,
mirror his maritime interest. Elizabeth northwest of the city, gives visitors a
wanted vibrant colour and excess to feel of his more bohemian lifestyle.
The Novgorod Kremlin with the Cathedral of St Sophia and its belfry
The gilded maze of the main staircase at Peterhof’s Grand Palace

144 B E Y O N D S T P E T E R S B U R G
Exploring St Peterr
Most St Petersburgers
time at their dacha or co
weekends and holiday
ways of experiencing t CP H 1
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GETTING AROUND JW Z
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It is relatively easy to get to a
imperial palaces, and to Rep
urban train or by taking a guided
by coach (see p208). Drivin
convenient, often taking lon
train, and driving standards
In the summer, the hydrofo
an alternative way to get to Peterhof
(see p229). Each of these sights can
easily be visited in a day. Novgorod is
situated further away, however, and so
it makes sense to spend longer there.
Mainline trains depart from Moscow
railway station (see p229) for Novgorod. Coastal landscape along the Gulf of Finland
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Minor road
Scenic route
Gilded cupolas of the
Main railway
chapel of Catherine
Minor railway Palace at Tsarskoe Selo
Repino 1
Репино
Repino
47 km (29 miles) NW of St Petersburg.

£ from Finland Station. @ 211 from
Chernaya Rechka metro. Penaty,
Primorskoe shosse 411. Tell 231 6828.
# 10:30am–4pm Wed–Sun. &
8 English. 7 ground floor.
Only about an hour’s drive

from St Petersburg on Primor-
skoe shosse, the northern
coastal road, is a region of
lakes, pine-scented forests and Studio of the eminent artist Ilya Repin at his home in Repino
sandy beaches. Among the
green-painted dachass and used dishes, since there were The grandiose plan bankrupted
sanatoria is Repino, a resort no servants. Anyone failing to Menshikov and, when he fell
named after one of Russia’s obey this household rule had from grace in 1727, the estate
greatest artists, Ilya Repin to give an impromptu speech entered the state treasury.
(see p106–7), who lived here from the lectern in the corner. The Baroque appearance of
for over 30 years until his In the garden, two small Oranienbaum’s Great Palace
death in 1930 at the age of 86. wooden follies are hidden has changed little since it was
His extraordinary dacha, with among the trees, and Repin’s constructed in 1710–25. Built
its steeply pitched glass roof grave is marked by a simple by Gottfried Schädel and
and angled windows, was cross on the top of a hillock. Giovanni-Maria Fontana, its
restored after damage in sweeping wings culminate in
World War II and is now open two remarkable pavilions.
as a museum. Oranienbaum 2 Parts of the palace and the
Named Penaty in honor of Ораниенбаум east (Japanese) pavilion are
the Roman household gods, Oranienbaum now open to the public.
penates, the house was re- From 1743 to 1761 the estate
designed by Repin himself to Oranienbaum, 40 km (25 miles) W of became the residence of the
accommodate all that an artist St Petersburg. Tell 422 3753, heir to the throne, the future
might need, including a glass- 423 1627 or 422 8016 (excursions). Peter III, who built himself a
panelled veranda downstairs, £ from Baltic station. Grounds miniature fortress with a small
which was used as a winter # 10am–7pm. Chinese Palace lake for his “navy” and a
studio. On display in the first # May–Sep: 11am–5pm. Palace of parade ground where he was
floor studio are the artist’s St Peter III # Oct–Apr: 11am– 4pm; fond of playing war games
brushes and a number of his May–Sep: 11am– 5pm. Sliding Hill with soldiers. Peter also com-
works, including an unfinished Pavilion ¢ temporarily. & 8 missioned Antonio Rinaldi to
portrait of Pushkin (see p44) build him a modest palace.
and Repin’s last self-f portrait. As the extravagant project of Peter’s wife, Catherine (later
Works by the artist adorn the Peter the Great’s closest friend Catherine the Great), abhorred
dining room, including portraits and main political advisor, her isolated existence here,
of the singer Fyodor Chalyapin Aleksandr Menshikovv (see p62), but after Peter’s murder (see
and writer Maxim Gorky who Oranienbaum was far more p22) she recovered her spirits
were among Repin’s many visi- ambitious in conception than and created what she described
tors. A revolving dining table Peter’s palace at Peterhof as her “personal dacha”. Built
enabled guests to serve them- (see pp148–51), which lies just by Rinaldi in the 1760s and
selves and to store away their 12 km (7 miles) to the west. known as the Chinese Palace,
it is famous for its Rococo
interiors and chinoiserie.
The most unusual building
at Oranienbaum is Rinaldi’s
Sliding Hill Pavilion, built in
1762 on Catherine’s initiative.
Wooden sledging hills were a
common source of amusement
among the Russian nobility.
Catherine’s visitors would climb
the blue and white pavilion
before descending at top
speed by sledge or toboggan
along a roller coaster run. The
track, 500 m (1,640 ft) long,
Façade of Menshikov’s Great Palace (1710–25), Oranienbaum was originally flanked by a
colonnade. Sadly, this structure Bolshevik party had

collapsed in 1813 but there is seized power, the
a model in the pavilion. proclaimed leader
A pleasant few hours can of the Provisional
be spent in the grounds with Government,
their secluded paths, pine Aleksandr Kerensky,
woods, ponds and bridges. fled to Gatchina
Oranienbaum was the only where he made a
local palace to escape German last ditch attempt to
occupation during World War rally his supporters.
II (see p27). In 1948, the estate After a week, he
was renamed Lomonosov after deserted his troops
the famous 18th-century Austere central section of Gatchina palace and slipped away
physicist (see p45) who laid into exile.
many of the foundations of Orlov died, two years later, After World War II, in which
modern Russian science. The Catherine transferred the estate the palace was badly
complex has now reverted to to her son and heir Paul (later damaged, Gatchina was used
its original name, an allusion to Paul I). Paul asked his favourite for many years as a military
the exotic orange trees architect Vincenzo Brenna to academy. The lengthy and
planted here by Menshikov. re-fashion the palace to match thorough restoration process
his pronounced martial is still under way. Of the
tastes. Brenna’s large- restored rooms, the three
scale alterations included most impressive are the
the construction of an Marble Dining Room, Paul I’s
additional storey and a gloomy bedroom at the top
moat with a drawbridge. of one of Brenna’s towers
The next Romanov to and the magnificent White
spend any time here was Ballroom. There is also a
Alexander III who made display of weaponry on the
it his permanent family ground floor.
residence in the late 19th The delightful grounds are
century. The estate pro- the wildest of all the palace
vided a safe and remote parks. Among the attractions
haven from the sporadic are the circular Temple of
social unrest which was Venus (1792–3) on the
threatening the capital secluded Island of Love and
(see p26). The imperial the Birch House (1790s). The
family led a simple and latter appears to be a pile of
secluded existence here. logs, but it actually conceals a
In keeping with the suite of exquisite rooms.
increasingly bourgeois The lake has boats for hire
Chinoiserie decorations in Catherine the tastes of the nobility in and its clean water makes it
Great’s Chinese Palace, Oranienbaum the whole of Europe, an ideal spot for swimming.
they scorned the state
Peterhof 3 rooms, confining themselves
instead to the cosy and more Tsarskoe Selo 5
See pp148–51. intimate servants’ quarters. In
1917, immediately after the See pp152–5.
Gatchina 4
Гатчина
Gatchina
45 km (28 miles) SW of St Petersburg.

£ from Baltic Station. @ K-18, K-100
from Moskovskaya metro station, 431
from pl Pobedy. Tell 8 81371 13492.
# 10am–6pm Tue –Sun. & 8
English (phone to book). -
www.gorod.gatchina.biz
In 1765, Catherine the Great

presented the village of
Gatchina to her lover, Prince
Grigoriy Orlov. He commis-
sioned Antonio Rinaldi to build
a Neo-Classical palace which
was completed in 1781. When Gatchina’s sumptuous White Ballroom with its pseudo-Egyptian statues
Peterhof 3
Петергоф
Petergof
With its commanding views of the Baltic, Peterhof is
a perfect expression of triumphalism. Originally
designed by Jean Baptiste Le Blond, the Great Palace
(1714–21) was transformed during the reign of Tsarina
Elizabeth when Bartolomeo Rastrelli added a third
storey and wings with pavilions at either end. He
tried to preserve Le Blond’s early Baroque exterior,
but redesigned the interiors, indulging his love for
gilded Baroque decoration. Peterhof stands at the View from palace of Grand Cascade
centre of a magnificent landscaped leading down to the Gulf of Finland
park, with both French and Neptune
English gardens. Fountain Oak
Fountain
Mezheumnyy
Fountain
The Upper Gardens are framed by

borders and hedges and punc-
tuated with ornamental ponds.
The Imperial Suite

The imperial suite Cottag
Palace
lies in the palace’s
east wing. Peter’s
Oak Study is one
of the fe w rooms
to have survived
unaltered from
Orangery
Le Blond’s design.
Some of the oak
panel designs are
originals (1718–21) Roman
by Nicholas Pineau. Fountain
. The Grand Cascade

The dazzling cascade Pyramid
(1715–24) is a sequence Fountain
of 37 gilded bronze
Monplaisir
sculptures, 64 fountains
and 142 water jetss (see Adam
p151), descending from Fountain
the terraces of the Great 0 metres 25

Palace to the Marine
Canal and the sea. 0 yards 25
P E T E R H O F 149
PETER THE GREAT’S PALACE
After his victory over the Swedes at Poltava in 1709, Peter the Petrodvorets, 30 km (19 miles) W
Great decided to build a palace “befitting to the very highest of St Petersburg. Tell 420 0073.
of monarchs”. A visit to Versailles in 1717 furthered Peter’s £ from Baltic station (see p220)
ambitions and he employed more than 5,000 labourers, serfs to Novyy Petergof. g Hermitage
and soldiers, supported by architects, water-engineers, land- (May–Oct) (see p220). Great
scape gardeners and sculptors. Work proceeded at a frenetic Palace # 10:30am–5pm
pace from 1714 until Peterhof was officially opened in 1723. Tue–Sun. ¢ last Tue of each
Le Blond’s Great Palace was month. Other pavilions #
completed in 1721 and has May–Sep: 11am– 5pm Tue–Sun;
changed considerably over Oct–Apr: 11am–5pm Sat & Sun.
the decades. Catherine the Fountains # May–early Oct:
Great commissioned Yuriy 10:30am–5pm. & 8 = 0 -
Velten to redecorate some of
Rastrelli’s interiors in the
1770s, including the Throne
Room and the Chesma Room.
Jean Baptiste Le Blond’s original

two-storey Great Palace
. Main Staircase
Caryatids and gilded carvings adorn
Rastrelli’s glittering staircase. The
ceiling fresco depicts Aurora and
Genius chasing away the night.
Golden Hill Cascade
Marly and
Hermitage
Eve
Fountain
STAR FEATURES
. Grand Cascade
. Main Staircase
Hydrofoil
and Gulf of . The State Rooms
Finland
The Marine Canal

enabled the tsars to
sail from the Gulf of
Finland up to the
Great Palace.
. The State Rooms

The highlight of the
State Rooms is the opulent Throne Room,
redesigned by Yuriy Velten in 1770. The
relatively restrained stucco ornament-
ation, red velvet hangings and parquet
floor provide an exquisite setting for
portraits of Russia’s imperial family.
Exploring Peterhof Park

The grounds at Peterhof include the Upper, Lower and
Alexandria parks, covering an area of around 607 hec-
tares (1,500 acres). As well as the numerous palaces
and fountains, there are tree-lined avenues, wooded
paths and the Baltic shore. Le Blond designed the
grounds next to the Great Palace to be laid out in the
formal French style with geometrically arranged flower
beds,sculptures, summerhouses and pergolas. The
trees and shrubs, including limes, elms, maples and
roses, were imported from all over Russia and abroad. Cottage Palace in Alexandria Park
include the Oak and Plane

Tree studies, Peter’s bedroom
T
and the Dining Room. It is set
in its own formal garden with
sculptures, fountains, a large
pond and Niccolò Michetti’s
Golden Hill Cascade, which
was added in 1731–7.
The Hermitage
Standing in splendid isolation
on the shores of the gulf, this
elegant pavilion (1721–5), by
Braunstein, was conceived as
a private dining venue for the
tsar and his friends. To high-
light the need for solitude, the
Monplaisir palace (1714–22), overlooking the Gulf of Finland building was raised on a plinth
and surrounded by a moat that
Monplaisir the Great was staying here in was crossed by a small draw-
This delightfully unpretentious 1762 when her lover, Count bridge. The stuccoed façade
palace was designed in 1714 Orlov, arrived with news of is decorated with Corinthian
by Johann Braunstein. Even the coup which was to bring pilasters, elaborate wrought-
after the Great Palace was built, her to the throne (see p24). iron balconies and enlarged
Peter continued to live and windows. All the servants were
entertain at Monplaisir where Marly Palace confined to the ground floor
his guests were usually sub- Named after Marly-le-Rois, the and a mechanical device took
jected to a punishing regime of king of France’s hunting lodge meals up from the kitchen.
heavy drinking. At breakfast which Peter the Great visited
the coffee cups were filled on a tour of Europe in 1717, Cottage Palace
with brandy and by nightfall this beautifully proportioned The romantic landscaped
guests were often discovered country residence was built grounds of Alexandria Park,
wandering drunk in the park. for the tsar’s guests. The named after Alexandra, wife of
While not as lavish as those rooms open to the public Nicholas I, provide a perfect
of the Great Palace the inter- setting for the Cottage Palace.
iors are still impressive, in The Neo-Gothic house is more
particular the wood-panelled imposing than the term cottage
Ceremonial Hall. A painting suggests. The Scottish architect,
on its vaulted ceiling depicts Adam Menelaws, designed it in
Apollo surrounded by char- 1826–9 for Nicholas I and his
acters from a masque. Russian wife, who wanted a domestic
icon painters skilfully carried environment in keeping with
out the decoration of the ex- their bourgeois tastes.
quisite Lacquered Study in the The Gothic theme is pursued
Chinese style then in vogue. throughout, most effectively in
Peter’s collection of canvases the Great Drawing Room with
by Dutch and Flemish artists the rose window motif in the
hang in the rooms and there carpet and the lace-like tracery
are wonderful views of the gulf of the stuccoed ceiling. The
from the tsar’s Naval Study. exquisite 5,200-piece crystal
Adjoining Monplaisir is the and porcelain dinner service
Catherine Wing, which was in the Dining Room was made
built for Tsarina Elizabeth by Elaborate tiled kitchen in the for the royal couple at the
Rastrelli in 1747–54. Catherine Marly Palace (1720–3) Imperial Porcelain factory.
P E T E R H O F 151
The Fountains at Peterhof

Jean-Baptiste Le Blond submitted his sculpture of Samson rending the jaws
“water plan” to Peter the Great in of a lion. An imaginative variety of
1717, by which time the tsar had begun fountains, mostly concentrated in the
sketching his own ideas. The Lower Park, includes triton
centrepiece is the Grand and lion fountains, dragon
Cascade, fed by the fountains with checker-
underground springs of board steps, and smaller
the Ropsha Hills about fountains with fish-tailed
22 km (14 miles) away. boys blowing sprays of
The cascade is a celebration water through conches. Most
of the triumph of Russia over Detail of the playful are trick fountains such
Sweden (see p19), symbolized Mezheumnyy as the Umbrella which “rains”
by Mikhail Kozlovskiy’s glorious Fountain on those who come too close.
The Adam Fountain,

sculpted by Giovanni
Bonazza, was com-
missioned by Peter in
1718, along with a
similar statue of Eve.
The two fountains
suggest the earthly
paradise the tsar had
recreated at Peterhof.
The Neptune Fountain

predates Peterhof by
more than 50 years. The
Baroque sculpture was
erected in 1658 in
Nuremberg to mark the
end of the Thirty Years
War and was sold to Tsar
Paul I in 1782 because
The Roman Fountains were there was not enough
designed by Ivan Blank and water to make it work.
Ivan Davydov in 1738–9. The
two-tiered marble fountains
were inspired by one in
St Peter’s Square in Rome.
The Pyramid Fountain (1720s) is

one of a number of fountains whose
The Grand Cascade was originally adorned with lead jets create a special shape. Over 500
statues which weathered badly and were recast in bronze jets of water rise in seven tiers to
and gilded after 1799. Shubin, Martos and other noted create an “obelisk” commemorating
sculptors worked to create this stunning cascade. the Russian victory over Sweden.
Tsarskoe Selo 5
Царское Село
Tsarskoe Selo
The lavish imperial palace at Tsarskoe Selo

was designed by Rastrelli (see p93) in 1752
for Tsarina Elizabeth. She named it the
Catherine Palace in honour of her mother,
Catherine I, who originally owned the estate.
The next ruler to leave her mark on the
palace was Catherine the Great, and during
her reign she commissioned the Scotsman
Charles Cameron to redesign the Baroque in-
teriors according to her more Neo-Classical
taste. Cameron also built the ensemble for . The Great Hall
taking traditional Russian cold and warm Light streams into Rastrelli’s glittering hall
baths, containing the Agate illuminating the mirrors, gilded carvings
Rooms, and the Cameron and the vast ceiling painting, The Triumph
T
Gallery. Post-war restoration of Russia (c.1755), by Giuseppe Valeriani.
of the palace continues and
20 state rooms are now open, The Great Staircase (1860),
as well as the beautiful park. by Ippolito Monighetti, ascen
the state rooms on the
Atlantes
Entra
The stunning 300-m (980-ft) long
Baroque façade is adorned with a
profusion of atlantes, columns, pilasters
and ornamented window framin
metres
R
p1
part
impe
and fa
semi-pr
stones fr
the Urals
(Temporar
closed.)
The Camero
Gallery (see p
The tab
gentlemen-in
and white room created by Rastrelli.
T S A R S K O E S E L O 153
The Royal Chapel

is richly decorated
in dark blue and Tsarskoe Selo, 25 km (16 miles) S
gold. Built by of St Petersburg. £ from Vitebsk
Chevakinskiy in the station to Detskoe Selo, then @
1740s, it contains an 371 or 382. Palace Tell 465 2024.
elaborate six-tiered # 10am– 5pm Wed–Mon. ¢
iconostasis. last Mon of month. & 8 = -
. Amber Room Agate Rooms # 10am–
The original amber panels 4:30pm (to 5:30pm in summer)
(1709) by Andreas Schlüte Thu–Mon. ¢ last Wed of
were a gift from Friedrich month. Cameron Gallery #
Wilhelm I of Prussia to Peter th 10am–5pm Wed–Mon. Park
# daily. & mid-May–Sep.
Great. The room has been
recreated from photos, co
with carved reliefs The Blue Drawing
Florentine m Room is characterized
by blue floral motifs
painted on silk.
Among the
royal portraits
hanging here is
a painting of
Peter the Great
y Ivan Nikitin,
dating from
around 1720.
the Lycée
d the Church of
e Sign (see p155)
ture
y displays
ry
vases by Italian,
French, Dutch and
Flemish masters of the
17th and 18th centuries. . Green Dining Room
Cameron’s restrained Neo-Classical
The French-style formal
style contrasts with the Baroque
gardens were laid out in the
1740s. Their formality and
flamboyance of Rastrelli’s work.
symmetry contrasts with the The exquisite stucco bas-reliefs,
naturalistic English-style sculpted by Ivan Martos, were
landscaping of the park (see based on motifs from frescoes
p154), created in 1768. discovered in Pompeii.
Small Enfilade
A varied selection of furniture STAR FEATURES
and objets d’art make up the
exhibition in these unrestored . The Great Hall
rooms. Chinese lacquer furniture
and Oriental rugs were among . Amber Room
the treasures used to furnish the . Green Dining Room
palace in the 19th century.
Exploring Tsarskoe Selo including the pièce de résis-

tance, the Great Pond. From
The magnificent parks and gardens of Tsarskoe Selo Giacomo Quarenghi’s pavilion
(the Tsar’s Village) were created out of dense forest by (1786) on the island, musicians
thousands of soldiers and labourers. Work began on the would serenade Catherine
formal gardens in 1744 but later, in 1768, Catherine the and her courtiers as they
floated by in gilded gondolas.
Great commissioned one of Russia’s first landscaped A naval theme links Vasiliy
parks. The 567 hectares (1,400 acres) of grounds are Neyelov’s Dutch, Neo-Gothic
dotted with captivating pavilions set around the central Admiralty (1773–7) with the
lake. The grounds and the town of Tsarskoe Selo, to 25-m (82-ft) high Chesma
the northeast of the palace, are also a delight to explore. Column which is decorated
with ships’ prows. The col-
umn, designed by Antonio
Rinaldi in 1771, commemor-
ates the Russian victory over
the Turks in the Aegean.
The reflection of the pink
dome and minaret of the
Turkish Bath shimmers in the
placid waters on the far side
of the lake. Nearby is
Neyelov’s colonnaded Marble
Bridge (1770–76). Perched on
a rock overlooking the pond
is the Girl with a Pitcher, a
statue by Pavel Sokolov. The
figure inspired Pushkin to
write his memorable poem,
Fountain at Tsarskoe Selo, in
which he muses on the girl
who has broken her urn and
Formal gardens in front of Catherine Palace, Catherine Park now “sits timelessly sad over
the timeless stream”.
Catherine Park The Neo-Classical Lower and Evidence of the 18th-century
The formal gardens to the Upper Baths were built by craze for chinoiserie can be
southeast of the palace are Ilya Neyelov in 1777–80. The found on the border with the
laid out geometrically with domed Lower Baths were for wilder Alexander Park where
radiating avenues, parterres the use of courtiers while the Cameron built his Chinese
and terraces, decorous ponds, exquisite Upper Baths were Village in 1782–96. Other
hedges, elegant pavilions reserved for members of examples are Yuriy Velten’s
and Classical statuary. the imperial family. Creaking Pavilion, so-called
Nearest to the palace are Construction work on because it was designed to
Cameron’s Agate Rooms Rastrelli’s Grotto began creak when visitors entered,
(1780–87), which are in 1749, but the original and Neyelov’s Great Caprice
currently closed. Their decoration of the in- (1770s), a hump-backed bridge
heavily rusticated terior with more surmounted by a pagoda-like
lower storey than 250,000 shells columned structure.
contrasts with the continued well
upper tier, model- into the 1770s.
led on a Renais- The gardens’ main
sance villa. The avenue leads to
building takes its Girl with a Pitcher by the Hermitage
name from the Pavel Sokolov (1816) (1756), a Baroque
agate, jasper and pavilion built by
malachite covering the interior. Rastrelli, where Elizabeth
The impressive Cameron would entertain small groups
Gallery, built in 1783–7, has a of guests for dinner.
rusticated stone ground floor, The romantic landscaped
surmounted by a Neo-Classical area of the lower park was
peristyle of 44 Ionic columns. begun in 1768 by master
Ranged along the colonnade gardeners such as John Bush,
are bronze busts of ancient who worked under the overall
philosophers, poets and rulers. supervision of the architect,
In 1792–4 Cameron added a Vasiliy Neyelov. A 16-km (10-
long stone ramp to facilitate mile) waterway was built to
access to the gardens for the feed the numerous canals, The Moorish-style Turkish Baths
ageing Catherine the Great. cascades and man-made lakes, (1852) by Ippolito Monighetti
T S A R S K O E S E L O 155
the nobility. In 1998 the town P Lycée Sadovaya 2.

took back its original name. Tell 476 6411. # 10am–5pm Wed–
The attractive Church of the Mon. ¢ last Fri of month. &
Sign (1734) is one of the P Pushkin’s Dacha Pushkinskaya
town’s oldest buildings. In a 2. Tell 476 6990. # 10am–6pm
garden next door a statue by Wed–Mon. ¢ last Fri of month. &
Roman Bach depicts Pushkin P Alexander Palace
dressed in the Lycée uniform. Dvortsovaya 2. Tell 466 6669.
Pushkin and his new bride, # 10am–6pm Wed–Mon.
Natalya, spent the summer of ¢ last Mon of month. & 8
1831 in the delightful wooden www.alexanderpalace.org
house, now named Pushkin’s
Dacha. The writer, Nikolai
Gogol, was amongst the many
friends they entertained here.
Creaking Pavilion (1778–86) On the town’s western edge
is the Alexander Palace,
The Town of Tsarskoe Selo commissioned by Catherine
This town of 80,000 inhabitants for her grandson, the future
was developed in the 19th cen- Alexander I. Designed in
tury as a summer resort for the 1792 by Giacomo Quarenghi,
aristocracy. In 1937, it was re- the austere, Neo-Classical
named after the poet Alexan- building has a colonnaded
der Pushkinn (see p43) who was façade and protruding wings.
educated at the local Lycée in It was the residence of
1811–17. One of Russia’s most Russia’s last tsar, Nicholas II
prestigious schools, it was and his family from 1904 until
founded by Alexander I in their arrest in 1917 (see p28). Alexander Pushkin’s statue (1900),
1811 to educate members of There is an exhibition inside. by Roman Bach
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Imperial standard of the Romanovs flying at the Catherine Palace

Pavlovsk 6
Павловск
Pavlovsk
To celebrate the birth of his heir, Catherine the

Great presented her son, the Grand Duke Paul,
with these lands in 1777. She also “gave” him
her favourite architect, Charles Cameron, to
design both palace and park. Work at Pavlovsk
(from “Pavel” or Paul) began in 1780 and was Cold Baths
continued by Paul’s grieving widow, Maria This austere pavilion was built by
Fyodorovna, long after his death. “English Cameron in 1799 as a summer
gardens” were at the height of fashion and swimming pool, complete
inspired Cameron’s design of a seemingly with elegant vestibule,
natural landscape dotted with pavilions (used paintings, furniture and
for informal parties), romantic ruins and rich wall upholstery.
attractive vistas around the Slavyanka river.
The Apollo Colonnade

Cameron’s colonnade
(1782–83) encircles a copy
of the Apollo Belvedere,
above a romantically
dilapidated cascade.
Three Graces Pavilion
The Centaur Bridge by Voronikhin

(1805) nestles on a bend of the
Slavyanka river. Aviary
Cameron’s
Dairy (1782)
housed both
a milking
shed and a
stylish salon.
. Pavlovsk Palace . Temple of

Cameron’s elegant Palladian mansion Friendship
(1782–6) forms the central block of This Doric temple
today’s palacee (see pp160–1), with (1780) was the
wings added in 1789 by Paul’s first use of Greek
favoured architect, Vincenzo Brenna. forms in Russia.
PAV L O V S K 159
Pavlovsk. Tell 470 2125. c from
Green Woman Vitebsk, Kupchino or Moscovskay
Alley
stations, then bus 370, 383, 383a,
Pavlovsk
493, K-286, K-299 (see p228).
Railway Station
Grounds # daily. & May–Nov
10am–5pm. Palace # 10am–
Visconti Bridge 5pm Sat–Thu. ¢ winter: first
One of the most famous bridges Mon of month. & 0 - =
which cross the winding 8 English. www.pavlovsk.org
Slavyanka, it was
designed by
Andrey
Voronikhin
in 1807.
The Étoile
The Étoile, the earliest
landscaped area in the
park, was laid out by
Cameron in 1780. The
circle of statues represents
the nine Muses, protectresses
of the arts and sciences.
The Beautiful
Valley was the
favourite spot of 0 metres 200
Elizabeth, wife
of Alexander I. 0 yards 200
Paul’s Mausoleum
(1808–9) bears the
inscription
“To my beneficient
The Rose Pavilion
consort”.
was the favourite
haunt of Maria
Fyodorovna STAR FEATURES
from 1812. She
held many . Temple of
concerts and Friendship Pil Tower and Bridge
literary evenings Brenna’s tower (1795–97) contained a
in this cottage. . Great Palace spiral staircase, lounge and library. The
bridge was a later addition made in 1808.
Exploring Pavlovsk Palace

Catherine commissioned Charles
Cameron to build the Great Palace
(1782–86) whilst Paul and his wife
Maria Fyodorovna travelled around
Europe incognito as the Comte
and Comtesse du Nord. They,
meanwhile, bought up everything
they saw including French clocks,
Late 18th-century Sèvres porcelain, tapestries and West façade of the Palladian mansion
clock, Grecian Hall furniture, to fill their new home.
Once back in Russia, they brought in Brenna to add ivory and gilded bronze, made
taller, more elaborate wings to Cameron’s elegant by Maria’s herself. Next door,
the Tapestry Room is named
Palladian mansion, turning it into a true palace. after the Don Quixote tapes-
tries made by Gobelin and
PLAN OF PAVLOVSK PALACE, FIRST FLOOR presented to Paul by Louis XVI.
The mahogany writing table
KEY was actually made for the new
State rooms
Engineers’ Castle (see p101)
but, after Paul’s murder there in
Southern wing 1801 (see p22), Maria moved
much of the specially-designed
furniture to Pavlovsk Palace.
The corner rooms are a Hall
of War for Paul and Maria’s
Stairs to private contrasting Hall of Peace, both
apartments and richly adorned with bas-reliefs
Egyptian Vestibule and heavy gilding. Between
on the ground floor
the two lies the magnificent
Grecian Hall, Cameron’s
1 Italian Hall Neo-Classical masterpiece.
2 Paul’s Study Maria Fyodorovna’s rooms
3 Tapestry Room
commence with a small, com-
4 Hall of War
5 Grecian Hall 8 Boudoir
fortable library. The chair at the
6 Hall of Peace 9 State Bedroom 12 Throne Room desk was designed for her by
7 Maria Fyodorovna’s 10 Dressing Room 13 Hall of Knights Voronikhin; note the pots built
Library 11 Picture Gallery 14 Chapel into the spine for flowers. Her
Boudoir has pilasters painted
feminine tastes which have with motifs copied from the
STATE ROOMS given Pavlovsk a distinct Raphael Loggias in the Vatican,
charm rather than grandeur. and a porphyry fireplace. The
A fire in 1803 necessitated State Bedroom was reputedly
some remodelling of the palace never slept in, but was part of
interiors by Andrey Voronikhin. court ceremony. Opposite the
The entrance hall, or Egyptian
Vestibule, gained its present
appearance after he added the
painted bronze figures and
zodiac medallions. At the top
of the stairs is Brenna’s State
Vestibule, where the bas-reliefs
reflected Paul’s passion for all
things military. It leads onto the
Italian Hall, situated beneath
the central cupola, with lantern
windows and heavy doors of
rosewood and mahogany.
The Italian Hall, originally by The northern row of rooms
Cameron and Brenna, 1789 on this floor were for Paul, the
southern ones for Maria. Paul’s
Nearly all of the palace apart- Study is dominated by Johann
ments at Pavlovsk, including Lampi’s fine portrait of Maria
the official ones, are relatively (1794), who holds a drawing of
modest in scale. They reflect six of their children. Beneath it Maria Fyodorovna’s Boudoir,
Maria Fyodorovna’s intensely is a model temple of amber, designed by Brenna, 1789
PAV L O V S K 161
PRIVATE APARTMENTS
Located on the ground floor

are the private apartments.
The Pilaster Room (1800), with
its golden pilasters, is furnished
with a dark mahogany suite.
The Lantern Study, designed a
few years later by Voronikhin,
is named after its apsed bay
window forming the “lantern”.
Maria Fyodorovna’s Dressing
Room leads into the Bedroom
(1805) she actually used (as
opposed to the State Bedroom
Brenna’s Picture Gallery (1789), with chandeliers by Johann Zeck upstairs). Pieces of the original
silk were saved in the war and
bed is a 64-piece Sèvres toilet stand on plinths, bought direct- used to edge the new curtains.
set, complete with a coffee cup ly from the factory (Paul and The small pink and blue
and an eye bath, which was a Maria spent huge sums on por- Ballroom was for private par-
gift from Marie Antoinette. celain there alone). The ceiling ties and hung with paintings
Another present dominates was painted during restoration by the most fashionable artist
the Dressing Room, a superb after World War II (see p26), of the day, Hubert Robert. The
set of steel furniture including and is taken from an original General Study, used as a family
dressing table, chair, vases design which was never used. sitting room, is decorated with
and ink stand made by the The Knights of St John chose portraits of the family. The
renowned gun-makers of Tula Paul as Grand Master when Raspberry Room, Paul’s pri-
(1789). This was presented to they fled Napoleon’s occupa- vate study, contains paintings
Maria by Catherine the Great. tion of Malta in 1798. This with views of Gatchina Palace,
suited Paul’s military taste and made for the Engineers’ Castle.
he commissioned vast
SOUTHERN WING lamps, thrones and dec-
orative items (now in
From the elegantly curved the Hermitage), as well
picture gallery, built in 1798, as the Hall of Knights,
there are excellent views. Only for ceremonies of the
a few of the paintings, mostly Order. The pale green
purchased during the young room is adorned with
couple’s trip to France, are Classical statues, saved
worthy of special notice, as from the Germans in
their taste was for applied art. World War II by being
The largest room in the buried in the grounds.
palace is the Throne Room, The suite of rooms
designed by Brenna (1797) ends with the Imperial
after Paul became tsar. Despite Chapel of SS Peter
its name it was generally used and Paul, a very un-
for balls and state dinners. The Orthodox church by
tables are now laid with part Brenna (1797–98),
of a 606-piece gilded dinner decorated with copies The Lantern Study, one of Voronikhin’s most
service. Vast blue Sèvres vases of European paintings. successfully designed interiors, 1804
MARIA FYODOROVNA (1759–1828)

Paul’s wife, Maria Fyodorovna, bore 10 children, and Pavlovsk was consid-
ered her 11th child. Paul himself preferred Gatchina (see p147) and in
1788 Maria was given Pavlovsk entirely. She devoted all her energy to
adorning both palace and park, giving
precise directions to designers and
architects, who bemoaned their lack
of independence. Born Sophia of
Württemberg-Stuttgart, Maria had
a practical German upbringing
which she put to good use.
Pieces of her own work, from
furniture to family portraits, are Inkstand (1795) created from initial
throughout the palace. design by Maria Fyodorovna
Novgorod 7
The ancient town of Novgorod (New

Town) was founded in 859 by the
Varangian (Viking) Prince Rurik (see
p17). The city’s proud tradition of self-
government began in the 11th century
and lasted until 1478, when Ivan III
subjugated the city. Favourably sited
Detail of bronze on the River Volkhov with convenient
door on Cathedral of connections from Scandinavia to the
St Sophia Aegean, the city of Novgorod became
a powerful trading community during
this period. In 1570, Ivan the Terrible put Novgorod to
the sword, torturing and massacring thousands of its Bejewelled metal icon cover on
inhabitants when the city plotted against him. It was, display in the Chamber of Facets
however, the rise of St Petersburg which finally set the
seal on Novgorod’s decline. Much of the city’s splendid necessary because of the cold.
cultural heritage, damaged in World War II, is now being On the north wall a section of
restored and can be appreciated in the many medieval whitewash has been removed
churches and picturesque streets of the old town. to reveal the original mosaic
effect of the grey-yellow
The Kremlin stone and brick façade.
Situated on the left bank, or The exquisitely sculpted
Sofiskaya Storona (Sophia and extremely rare bronze
side), of the River Volkhov, doors adorning the west
the formidable red-brick walls side were seized as booty
and cone-topped towers of in 1187 from the Swedish
the oval-shaped Detinets, or town of Sigtuna. In the
Kremlin, date from the 11th to lower left hand corner
the 17th centuries. According there are portraits of the
to the prevailing practice at craftsmen, named in the
the time, the first stone of the Kremlin walls, with the silver dome of St Latin inscription as Riquin
original walls was laid on the Sophia’s Belfry (15th century) and Weissmut. The interior
body of a living child. is divided by piers into
Of the many towers, the At the heart of the fortress is five aisles, three ending in
17th-century Kukui is the most Novgorod’s oldest and largest altar apses. Fragments of early
remarkable, and also the tallest church, the strongly Byzantine frescoes survive, but the icon-
at 32m (105ft). The lower Cathedral of St Sophia ostasis is one of the oldest in
floors once contained a wine (1045–62). It was modelled on Russia and contains icons
cellar and treasury chamber, the cathedral of the same name from the 11th–17th centuries.
while the octagonal room in Kiev, but the tendencies of East of the cathedral is St
beneath the cupola was used, the Novgorod school already Sophia’s Belfry, much altered
according to chronicles, “for appear in the lack of ornament since it was first built in 1439.
surveying the whole town”. and the scarcity of windows, The bells, now displayed
below, were cast in the late
16th and early 17th centuries.
The northwest corner of the
Kremlin is occupied by the
Archbishops’ Court, in its
heyday a powerful body with
its own treasury, police force
and military guard. Beneath the
15th-century clock tower an
attractive staircase leads to the
Library, housing magnificent
medieval religious manuscripts.
Backing onto the cathedral,
the Chamber of Facets is the
most famous part of this en-
semble. A superb star-vaulted
reception hall dates from 1433
and displays treasures from
the cathedral, including gob-
lets, jewelled mitres and icon
The 11th-century Cathedral of St Sophia, the landmark of Novgorod covers in precious metals.
N O V G O R O D 163
Within the Kremlin VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

is the Museum of
History, Architecture 190 km (118 miles) S of St
and Art, which Petersburg. * 240,000. £ from
houses a magnificent Moscow Station. c from Coach
collection of 12th– Station (see p221). n Intourist
17th-century icons of Hotel, ul Dmitrevskaya 16, (81622)
the Novgorod school. 73074. 8 by appt (tel: 73770).
One of the most
remarkable is the
12th-century portable commercial centre, once the
icon of the Virgin of site of the medieval market,
the Sign, whose part of whose wall still stands.
miraculous image is The oldest church on this
said to have saved side of the river, St Nicholas’
Novgorod from the Cathedral (1113–36), was
armies of Prince built by Prince Mstislav. It
Andrey Bogolyubskiy dominates the area and once
of Suzdal in 1169. symbolized the prince’s power.
Scenes from the battle Novgorod’s merchants were
are depicted on a keen to show their recognition
vibrant 15th-century of God’s hand in their prosper-
icon (see p165). ity, and so funded many of the
There are also works city’s churches. St Paraskeva
by leading 18th- and The carved Royal Gates of an iconostasis in the Pyatnitsa, erected in 1207 and
19th-century artists, Museum of History, Architecture and Art then rebuilt in 1345, was dedi-
including Dmitriy cated to the patron saint of
Levitskiy, Karl Bryullov and Yaroslav’s Court commerce. The more decora-
Vasiliy Serovv (see p106). The Across the River Volkhov was tive Church of the Holy
museum has a number of pre- the official seat of the princes, Women and Church of St
cious public documents and known as Yaroslav’s Court. Procopius, both 16th century,
private letters written on birch The palace of Yaroslav the were financed by wealthy
bark, some of which date Wise (1019–54) has since dis- Moscow merchants. The fan-
from the 11th century. These appeared but several churches ciful tastes of the Muscovite
give details of ordinary, every- have survived. The area adja- patrons mark a departure from
day life and are evidence of the cent to the Court is Novgorod’s Novgorod’s austere style.
unusually widespread literacy
among the city’s inhabitants.
In the Kremlin’s central
square, the huge, bell-shaped
Millennium Monument was
sculpted by Mikhail Mikeshin.
The monument was unveiled
in 1862, a thousand years after
Rurik’s arrival in Novgorod.
The figure kneeling before
the Orthodox cross personifies
Mother Russia while, below,
the decorative frieze depicts
Rurik, Ivan III, Mikhail (the first
Romanov tsar), Peter the Great
and many others. The frieze
around the base shows over
100 figures: heroes, statesmen,
artists, composers, princes
and chroniclers.
 Cathedral of St Sophia
Tell (81622)73556.
# 8am–8pm daily.
E Chamber of Facets
Tell (81622) 73608 or 73770.
# 10am–6pm Thu–Tue. & 8
English by appt.
E Museum of History,
Architecture and Art
Tell (81622) 73608 or 73770.
# 10am–6pm Wed–Mon. &
8 English by appt. Millennium Monument, celebrating Novgorod’s 1,000 years of history
Yuriev Monastery walls and bell tower with the silvery domes of the Cathedral of St George in the background
Beyond Yaroslav’s Court frescoes contrast with the three asymmetrical cupolas was
In the 12th century, Novgorod harsher colours found in most restored in the 19th century,
boasted over 200 churches, 14th-century Novgorod fres- and unfortunately most of the
while there are only 30 today. coes. The Annunciation, for interior murals were lost. There
Many of these are hidden away example, combines sensitivity were once 20 monastic build-
in the quiet hinter- and charm with ings in the complex, dating
land of 19th-century religious intensity. mainly from the 19th century.
streets to the east In the woods across the
of Yaroslav’s Court. Further Afield road lies the fascinating open-
On Ilyina ulitsa, the A pleasant stroll 3 air Museum of Wooden
arrangement of km (2 miles) south Architecture, which displays
windows, niches along the river churches and peasant huts
and inset crosses bank leads to the moved from local villages. Of
on the Church of Yuriev Monastery. particular interest are the 17th-
the Saviour of the This is the largest century two-tiered Kuritsko
Transfiguration and most important Church of the Dormition and
façade (1374) is monastery in the the tiny wooden church of St
almost whimsical. area, founded in Nicholas from Tukhel village.
Inside, there are 1030 and built on
original frescoes Fresco inside the orders of Prince  Yuriev Monastery
by one of Russia’s Znamenskiy Cathedral Vsevolod. Its im- Yurevskaya nab. Tell (81622)
greatest medieval posing Cathedral of 73020. # 10am–6pm daily.
artists, Theophanes the Greek St George was built in 1119–30 E Museum of Wooden
(1335–c.1410), who came from by “Master Peter”, the first Architecture (Vitoslavlitsi)
Constantinople and decorated named architect in Russian Yurevo. Tell (81622) 73770. # 24 hrs.
40 Russian churches. Andrey chronicles. This beautifully Exhibitions: 10am–6pm (mid-Oct–
Rublev (1360–1430), Russia’s proportioned church with its mid-Apr: 10am–4pm) daily. & 8
most famous icon painter,
worked under Theophanes at
the beginning of his career.
On the same street, the
five-domed Znamenskiy
Cathedral, or Cathedral of the
Sign (1682–8), has an attractive
gateway and faded frescoes
on the outer walls. The beau-
tiful interior was decorated in
1702 by Ivan Bakhmatov.
The Church of Theodore
Stratilates on Mstinskaya
ulitsa to the north was built in
1360–61 by the widow of a
wealthy Novgorod merchant.
The delicate purple and pink Rebuilt 19th-century peasant hut (izba), Museum of Wooden Architecture
N O V G O R O D 165
Russian Icon Painting

The Russian Orthodox Church The first icons were brought to
uses icons for both worship Russia from Byzantium. Greek
and teaching, but never for masters came too, to train local
mere ornament, and there are painters. The northern schools
strict rules for the creation of which developed during the
each image. Icons were be- 13th–15th centuries were less
lieved to be imbued with the restricted by Byzantine canons
force of the saint depicted, and Early stone icon and have an earthy style linked
were therefore invoked for profound in to Russian peasant life. Novgorod,
Novgorod
tection during wars. Because the never under the Mongol yoke
content was considered more impor- and with a thriving economy, was the
tant than the style, old, revered icons source of many of the finest icons
were often repainted again and again. made for the northern monasteries.
Battle of Novgorod
and Suzdal
This mid-15th-century
work of the Novgorod
School is thought to be
Russia’s earliest histor-
r
ical painting. Icons
could have a political
purpose – in this case to
use Novgorod’s great
past as a justification
for its independence
from Moscow. Note the
multiple touches of
red – a colour central
Virgin of Vladimir to everyday Russian life
The most venerated and typical for icons of
icon in Russia, this the Novgorod School.
12th-century work
was made in Con-
stantinople. Its huge
influence on Russian
icon painting can-
not be overstated.
THE ICONOSTASIS
The iconostasis screens off the sanctuary from the main part of
the church, as if it were a boundary between heaven and earth.
In Russian practice it is covered with icons strictly arranged in
up to six tiers, each with its own dogmatic purpose.
The Festival Tier shows Christ Enthroned

the 12 major church
festivals, such as The Deesis Tier,
the Entry into above the Royal
Jerusalem and Gates, contains
the Crucifixion. Old Testament Trinity
Christ Enthroned,
Such pictorial by Rublev
flanked by the
representation Virgin and St John Andrey Rublev was one
aided the faith interceding on of the greatest artists of
of the illiterate. behalf of mortal the Moscow School. He
sinners. was strongly influenced
The Royal Gates by recent developments
represent the in Byzantine painting,
entrance from the The Local Tier
brought to Russia by
temporal world is for local saints,
to the spiritual, those the church Greek masters in the
between which is dedicated to late 14th century. His
the priests pass and patron saints Trinity icon dates from
during the service. of major donors. the early 15th century.
TRAVELLERS’
NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY 168177

RESTAURANTS AND CAFÉS 178193
SHOPS AND MARKETS 194199
ENTERTAINMENT IN ST PETERSBURG 200205
168 T R AV E L L E R S ’ N E E D S
WHERE TO STAY
C elebrations in 2003 of the 300th centre. These provide reasonable ser-
anniversary of the founding of St
Petersburg did wonders for the
range of hotel accommodation avail-
able. The city has sprouted many
vice and full amenities such as restau-
rants, bars and fitness facilities.
Travelling outside the White Nights
period cuts costs and opens up the
“mini-hotels” (privately run estab- opportunity for booking one of
lishments in or near the centre the many excellent deals avail-
with anything from 4 to 15 rooms), able at more central hotels.
and investors have opened large, Bookings can be made inde-
luxury hotels in outstanding loca- pendently or via an agency. For
tions. The quality of service has the summer months, particularly
also risen dramatically. Many during the White Nights, reser-
tourists visiting in the summer Doorman at vations should be made well in
with a package tour, however, Hotel Europe advance for accommodation at
are still housed in large, somewhat all price levels. There is a selection of
anonymous modern hotels outside the hotels on pp174–7.
PRICE
The most important thing to

remember in St Petersburg is
that prices in big hotels more
than double for the six weeks
or so of the White Nights.
These higher prices are
quoted throughout the hotel
listings (see pp174–7). Normal
prices return during the “mid-
season”, which is usually
April–May and late July–late
September. Outside that
Pribaltiyskaya, a popular hotel for package tours (see p177) period, particularly during the
“White Days” of winter, there
WHERE TO LOOK establishments. Nearly all are frequently excellent deals
hotels can now be booked to be had.
There are few large, inex- online or by fax. The larger Large central hotels, it
pensive hotels in central hotels will require travellers should be noted, nearly all
St Petersburg. Many of those to supply a credit card fall into the luxury category,
listed in this chapter are number, and money will be and offer everything from
scattered around the city. debited if a cancellation is exclusive single rooms to
Visitors on a package tour made less than 24 hours in imperial suites costing several
usually find themselves stay- advance. Some of the smaller thousand dollars a day. By
ing in a former Intourist hotel hotels can be booked through opting for a smaller hotel
such as the Pribaltiyskaya or one of the agencies listed on with fewer facilities or a bed
Pulkovskaya, situated in page 171. All hotels and
modern high-rise areas on agencies recommended can
the city’s outskirts. Mini provide visa support (see
hotels and bed-and-breakfast p210), unless stated otherwise.
establishments, by contrast,
are frequently found in FACILITIES
quiet streets near the centre.
Independent travellers should Rooms in all the hotels listed
consider their priorities from include at least a shower, a
the start: is it location, price television and a telephone.
or facilities? Most have air conditioning.
Large hotels have a luggage
HOW TO BOOK room for storing baggage
after the midday check-out
Hotel reservations for the time. Bars frequently work at
White Nights (see p51) should night, and extensive fitness
be made several months in and sauna facilities are more
advance, and as early as or less standard features in Fitness centre at the Grand Hotel
possible for the more popular bigger establishments. Europe (see p175)
Floating bars on the Moyka river
W H E R E T O S T AY 169
and breakfast (usually a small, SECURITY

basic hotel rather than a family
home), you can be just as Some top-range establishments
central for much less money. have metal detectors and selec-
Be aware that many smaller tive bag searches at entrances.
hotels will have only shower Smaller hotels have a door-
cabins rather than a full bath. man, who may ask to see a
Note that prices are not visitor’s card or identification.
displayed in hotels, and that Since this is simply a precau-
only some small hotels and tion for guests’ protection,
hostels take credit cards. To there is no reason to object.
avoid upset, it is important to Most hotels have safes in the
be prepared to pay in cash. rooms and/or security deposit
boxes at the front desk. Large
sums of money and valuables
should always be left in one Room in the Grand Hotel Europe
of these places. (see p175)
DISABLED TRAVELLERS Those with special require-

ments should contact their
Due to the thick snow in prefered hotel before booking
winter, most buildings in
St Petersburg have steps up CHILDREN
to their entrances, making
access extremely difficult for St Petersburg has never been
disabled visitors. Only a few vaunted as a great children’s
of the élite hotels are fully destination, and few hotels
wheelchair accessible, with cater specifically for families.
staff trained to be of It is, however, possible to
assistance, although other arrange babysitters in all the
Entrance to the luxurious, modern hotels are increasingly adding large hotels, and increasingly
Corinthia Nevskij Palace (see p176) ramps, widening doors and in some of the smaller hotels.
trying to adapt to meet the It is worth checking the
HIDDEN EXTRAS needs of disabled travellers. situation before you book.
Large hotels, which provide

visa support and obligatory
passport registration
n (see p210)
for free, often do not include
local taxes or breakfast in the
prices they quote. Both of
these can be a significant
addition to the final bill. (The
price categories used in the
hotel listings on pages 174–7
include both breakfast and
taxes.) Be warned that the cost
of making international or
even local phone calls from
your room in the large hotels
is likely to be prohibitive. On
the other hand, phones which
use the local network are
relatively cheap and phone-
cards can be purchased to
make international calls from
street booths or fixed phones
(see p216). In smaller hotels,
breakfast tends to be included
in the price, but you should
expect to pay extra for the
initial visa support. Calls from
phones in small hotels and
hostels may be free or very
cheap if they use the local
telephone system. Phonecards
can be used to make interna-
tional calls from such phones. The elegant Winter Garden restaurant in the Astoria Hotel (see p174)
MINI-HOTELS Youth Hostel, with

its attached budget
St Petersburg has a very good travel company,
range of mini-hotels avail- Sindbad, is best
able; far too many to list in known and is often
full. The best, however, are booked up well in
included in this guide’s hotel advance. The
listings (see pp174–7). inexpensive but
Not necessarily a truly clean and com-
budget option – because fortable Nord Hostel,
some are extremely luxurious on the other hand,
– the city’s extensive range of Efficient and helpful Sindbad travel agency at is unmatched for
mini-hotels, with anything the St Petersburg International Youth Hostel location. The
from 4 to 15 or 20 rooms, cheapest option,
offer some of the most In some cases, although the and hugely popular, is Sleep
comfortable and pleasant apartment has been refur- Cheap, run by a local
accommodation available. bished, the communal staircase hostelling enthusiast.
And the personalized service to the building may be a little Be aware that none of these
on offer is often hard to beat. on the grubby side. T This gritti- are “youth” hostels as such,
Many mini-hotels can be ness can be off- f putting at first, although young people do
booked through agencies, but it does offer the feel of tend to dominate in the
notably City Realty and living in the true St Petersburg. summer months. In the off
Eridan Travel
T Company, The best way to cut costs is, season, however, 50 per cent
which include a selection of course, to give up hopes of of hostel guests tend to be in
on their websites. seeing the White Nights, and the over-forty age range.
travel in the off season. Mini-
hotels and short-let apartments STAYING WITH FAMILIES
can be extremely cheap at
this time of year, and even For a really good insight into
the big hotels offer excellent Russian life, staying with a
deals. April can be dry and family can be an interesting
sunny, if still cold, and and cheap option. The system
October can be beautiful, works very much like any
particularly if you catch the bed and breakfast in Europe,
brief northern autumn. with prices including break-
Travelling in February more
T fast but no other meals. Extra
Interior of the renovated Petro or less guarantees the vision meals can usually be
Palace hotel (see p174) of a Russia covered in snow. provided at a small cost.
HOFA (Host Families
BUDGET HOSTELS Association) and Ost-West
ACCOMMODATION have a wide range of families
For the budget traveller on their books and a
Truly cheap accommodation
T seeking comfortable particularly good reputation
is hard to find in St Petersburg. accommodation in a in this area. Your hosts are
If hostels are not for you reasonably central location, likely to be extremely
but your budget is tight, there are now several hospitable and will tend to
choose one of the more centrally located hostels to overfeed you rather than
modest mini-hotels, which choose from. All offer visa otherwise. Many of HOFA F ’s
usually describe themselves support and registration and hosts are academics, well
as “bed and breakfast”. This are extremely friendly. educated and speak several
usually means they offer a St Petersburg International languages. As a general rule,
small number of rooms in a
converted flat in an ordinary
building, with a housekeeper
who makes breakfast in the
tiny kitchen. There may be a
shared toilet rather than
separate facilities.
Accommodation agencies
such as Bednbreakfast and
City Realty also offer short-
term apartment rental, which
can be very cheap for a group
of friends who are sharing.
The apartments are refurbished
and central, with anything
from one to five rooms,
usually with satellite TV. Impressive façade of the Oktyabrskaya Hotel, dating from 1847 (see p176)
hosts will be keen to talk to dachass let them to people travel company that does to
you about their life in Russia they know. None of the firms make a booking. The best
and Western perceptions of specializing in lets to foreigners option for cheaper living with
their country. deal in dachas, and demand modern facilities is to rent a
Many Russian apartments within 100 km (62 miles) of chalet attached to a motel.
are reached through scruffy the city far outstrips proper- Retur Camping offers chalets,
entrance halls or courtyards, ties available. As a result, camp sites, a swimming pool,
but do not let this put you rental costs can be exorbitant sauna, tennis courts and riding.
off, as it gives little indication (about US$5,000 per week).
of the quality of the accom- In order to find anything at EXTENDED STAYS
modation inside. all, book as early as February.
The best range of dachas Those intending to stay in
CAMPING AND (from around US$500 per St Petersburg for a month or
OUTDOOR LIVING week) is available through more will find the cost of
Alexander, but you will need renting apartments much
Russians love getting out of to speak Russian or use a cheaper. While hostels do not
town for walks, swimming offer long-term reductions,
and mushroom gathering. All Bednbreakfast and City Realty
are possible on day trips from have plenty of flats that are
the city, but staying out of available at more modest
town is more complicated. rates than those advertised for
St Petersburg’s cold winter short lets. Be aware, however,
weather does not make it that tourist visas cannot
ideal for camping, though the usually be registered (see
forests along the north side of p210) for more than three
the Gulf of Finland are months, and that a longer
excellent in milder seasons. stay will require a non-tourist
Those thinking of renting a visa aranged through a
dacha or small house in the company that can legally
country will find this difficult. Dacha in pine forest near Repino on register you for the period
Most people with modest the Gulf of Finland (see p146) you will be in the country.
DIRECTORY
ACCOMMODATION HOFA Host Families Hotels on Nevsky Prima Sport Hotel
AGENCIES Association Tell 703 3860. Ul Dobrolyubova 14.
Tavricheskaya ul 5, Faxx 703 3861. Map 1 B3.
Alexander Apartment 25. Map 6 D1. www.hon.ru Tel / Fax
x 324 7077.
Potemkinskaya ul 13. Tel / Fax275
x 1992. www.prima-nomerov.net
www.hofa.ru
Rinaldi Bed &
Map 3 C4. Breakfast St Petersburg
Tell 327 1616. MIR Travel Company Tell 973 5140. International Youth
www.an1.spb.ru Nevskiy pr 11/2. Faxx 325 4189. Hostel
Map 6 D1. Tell 325 7122. www.rinaldi.ru 3-ya Sovetskaya ul 28.
Bednbreakfast Fax
x 315 3001. Map 7 C2.
Tel / Fax
x 325 6536. www.mir-travel.com HOSTELS Tell 329 8018.
Faxx 329 8019.
www.discount-travel- Ost-West Hostel “5 Minutes www.ryh.ru
petersburg.ru Nevskiy pr 105. to the Hermitage” Sleep Cheap
Tell 327 3416. Kazanskaya ul 11.
City Realty Faxx 327 3417. Mokhovaya ul 18,
Map 6 E2. Apartment 32. Map 3 A5.
Bolshaya Morskaya ul 35. www.ostwest.com
Tell 325 6536. Tell 715 1304.
Map 5 B2.
Sindbad Faxx 325 7237. Faxx 273 5709.
Tell 312 7842. 2-ya Sovetskaya ulitsa 12. www.discount-travel- www.sleepcheap.spb.ru
Fax
x 710 6457. Map 7 C2. Tell 332 2020. petersburg.ru
www.cityrealtyrussia.com
Useful Website
Hostel All Seasons www.russia-hostelling.ru
MINI-HOTEL
Eridan Travel Yakovlevskiy per 11.
NETWORKS
Company Tell 327 1070. CAMPING
Anabel Faxx 327 1033.
Ul Artilleriyskaya 1, Retur Camping
Tell 717 0800. www.hostel.ru
Business Centre Europa Bolshaya Kupalnaya str. 28,
Faxx 717 0255.
House, Office 619. Nord Hostel Sestroretsk.
www.mini-hotel.com
Bolshaya Morskaya ul 10. 26 km (16 miles)
Map 3 B5.
Filippov Hotels Map 6 D1. NW of St Petersburg.
Tell 324 23 05. Tell 571 0342.
Tell 274 5363. Tell 434 5022.
Fax
x 322 57 38. Faxx 274 9084. Faxx 312 7302. Faxx 437 7533
www.rus-tours.com www.filippovhotel.ru www.nordhostel.com www.retur.ru
Popular Hotels in St Petersburg

Accommodation in St Petersburg has
improved in recent years, but there is
still really only a handful of hotels from
which to choose. Unfortunately few of
these are conveniently situated for the
city centre and it is important to decid
on your priorities, be it location, price
character, service or amenities. This
selection represents the city’s most
popular hotels.
Prestige Hotel
This hotell (see p174) is tucked
away on a small residential street.
Stay here and feel like a local,
but with all modern comforts.
Rennaisance
St Petersburg Baltic
Central and prestigious,
yet set apart from the
hurly-burly of Nevskiy
prospekt, the Baltic feels
like a small hotel while
offering “big” hotel
servicee (see p175).
Sovetskaya
This 1970s hotell (see p176) offers wond
views of the city centre from its bar. At
sunset or during White Nights the vista is
particularly magical.
Astoria Ho
One of the city
and centrally loca
Astoria (see p174) is
exploring St Petersburg o
The attractive building overloo
St Isaac’s Square and Cathedral.
For additional map symbols see back flap

St Petersburg
The package-holiday tourists who usual-l
ly stay here get a wonderful, sweeping
view across the broad expanse of the
ver Neva, towards Palace Embank-
from the bel-étagee (see p177).
Europe
heart of the city, this historic
5) is one of the finest in
Elegant decor and refined
omplemented by many facilities.
Hotel Dostoevsky
Located just a stone’s
throw from the
tourist heart of
St Petersburg, the
Dostoevskyy (see p176)
combines old and
new, historical and
modern, in both its
design and its service.
Pulkovskaya
able and clean, this
dern hotell (see p176)
any business facilities,
luding an auditorium.
e hotel’s main advantage
its proximity to the airport.
0 kilometres 2
0 miles 2
Choosing a Hotel PRICE CATEGORIES

The following price ranges are for a
double room per night, including taxes
Hotels have been selected across a wide price range for and breakfast, during the high season.
In the low season, prices can halve.
facilities, good value and location. All rooms have a
\ Under $100
shower, TV V and telephone. The chart lists the hotels by \\ $100–$175
area. Within each area, entries are organized alpha- \\\ $175–$250
\\\\ $250–$325
betically within each price category, from the least to \\\\\ over $325
the most expensive. For map references, see pp238–45.
CITY CENTRE
VASILEVSKIY ISLAND Prestige Hotel Престиж отель z \\
3-ya liniya 52, Vasilevskiy ostrov Tell 328 5011 Fax

x 328 4228 Rooms 10 Map 1 A4
This is a modern hotel, set in a restored 19th-century building on a residential street on Vasilevskiy Island, just a short
walk away from the Strelka and the sights, and the shops and bustling atmosphere around Vasileostrovskaya metro
station. There is no lift, but there are few floors. Visa support is included in the price. www.prestige-hotels.com
VASILEVSKIY ISLAND Shelfort Шелфорт z∫ \\
3-ya liniya 26, Vasilevskiy ostrov Tell 328 0555 Fax

x 570 6700 Rooms 15 Map 1 A5
Set on a quiet residential street a short walk from the Strelka, the Shelfort has good, plain interiors with beautifully
restored tiled stoves. Two luxury suites have fireplaces; one also has a balcony. The hotel does not have a lift, but
consists of ground and first floors only (wheelchair users can request a room on the ground floor). www.shelfort.ru
PALACE EMBANKMENT Comfort Комфорт ezå≤ \\
Bolshaya Morskaya ulitsa 25 Tell 570 6700 Fax

x 570 6700 Rooms 14 Map 6 D2
Despite limited facilities, the Comfort offers excellent value for money by virtue of its helpful staff and unbeatable
location at the heart of the historic centre, which is packed with restaurants. Rooms are unfussy and airy. Cots are
available. One suite is adapted for use as an office by those visiting on business. www.comfort-hotel.spb.ru
PALACE EMBANKMENT Prestige Hotel Centre Престиж отель центр z≤ \\
Gorokhovaya ulitsa 5 Tell 312 0405 Fax

x 315 9357 Rooms 12 Map 6 D1
A modest hotel in a plain building, tucked away by the Admiralty Gardens. Rooms are furnished with simple,
inexpensive metal and plastic furniture; most have a shower but not a bath. The friendly concierge can book cars or
guided tours. Additional rooms will be available from late 2006. www.prestige-hotels.com
PALACE EMBANKMENT Casa Leto z \\\
Bolshaya Morskaya ulitsa 34 Tell 600 1069 Fax

x 3146639 Rooms 5 Map 6 D2
Run by an Italian-Russian couple, this tiny establishment is arguably the best of the “mini hotels”. It boasts light-filled
rooms, many complimentary extras and a superb central location. Personal service includes business support, and tour and
ticket booking. The cheapest suite, Trezzini, has a shower only; others also have a bath. www.casaleto.com
PALACE EMBANKMENT Angleterre Отель Англетер e0:÷zå \\\\\
Bolshyaya Morskaya ulitsa 39 Tell 313 5666 Fax

x 313 5118 Rooms 193 Map 6 D2
The Angleterre is the stylishly refurbished, Western-run sister hotel to the slightly superior Astoria next door, whose facilities
it shares. There is a nightclub and a casino, and a rather good lunchtime brasserie. The superb central location on St Isaac’s
Square is within easy walking distance of the Hermitage and Nevskiy prospekt. www.angleterrehotel.com
PALACE EMBANKMENT Astoria Отель Астория e0:÷zå \\\\\
Isaakievskaya ploschad, Bolshaya Morskaya ulitsa 39 Tell 313 5750 Fax

x 313 5059 Rooms 223 Map 6 D2
Fully renovated in 2002, the Astoria’s historic interior none the less has the calm and grace of a hotel with a history.
Rooms at the front offer outstanding views over St Isaac’s Cathedral and Square, and along the river Moyka. Those
who cannot afford, or do not choose to stay here may visit for tea in the downstairs lounge. www.astoria.spb.ru
PALACE EMBANKMENT Eliseev Palace Елисеев палас отель e0:÷zå \\\\\
Naberezhnaya reki Moyki 59 Tell 324 9911 Fax

x 324 9957 Rooms 29 Map 6 D1
Part of the Taleon Club, this is a luxury hotel, restaurant and casino complex with benefits for members. There is a
wide range of inclusive services, a library, and a personal valet for every guest. Events for children are held. Rooms overlook
the river Moyka. The total number of rooms will more than double in 2007. www.eliseevpalacehotel.com
PALACE EMBANKMENT Petro Palace Отель Петро палас e0÷zå \\\\\
Malaya Morskaya ulitsa 14 Tell 571 2880 Fax

x 571 2704 Rooms 193 Map 6 D1
An elegant hotel, opened in 2005, that attracts many wealthy Russians as well as tourists. Its extensive facilities are
unmatched at this price, particularly in the centre, and include a fitness suite, pool and massage services. The renovated
and extended 19th-century building offers good views from the seventh floor. www.petropalacehotel.com
Key to Symbols see back cover flap

PALACE EMBANKMENT Renaissance St Petersburg Baltic e0÷zå \\\\\
Pochtamtskaya ulitsa 4a Tell 380 4000 Fax

x 380 4001 Rooms 102 Map 5 C2
An elegant establishment, decorated on the theme of “historic St Petersburg”, using old-fashioned materials and
modern design. Some rooms offer views over St Isaac’s Square, and the area is very quiet. Despite its luxury status,
with one of the best fitness suites in the city, the hotel feels cosy. www.marriot.com/ledbr
GOSTINYY DVOR Polikoff ¤ \\
Karavannaya 11/64, apt 24–6 Tell 314 7925 Fax

x 3147925 Rooms 15 Map 7 A2
The interior is clean and unadorned – all blond wood and metal – and very light, even though most rooms overlook a
courtyard. Some rooms have air-conditioning. The main drawback is the absence of a lift, as all rooms are on the
second or third floors (known as the third and fourth in Russia). Service is efficient and friendly. www.polikoff.run
GOSTINYY DVOR Pushka Inn e0z \\\

x 312 0913 Rooms 31 Map 2 E5
This historic building, right on the river Moyka and next door to the Pushkin Museum, has been transformed into a
comfortable, modern hotel. Simple furniture and interiors make no false allusions to wealth or grandeur. It is almost
impossible to stay closer to the Hermitage! There are four “apartments” or family suites. www.pushkainn.ru
GOSTINYY DVOR Grand Hotel Europe Гранд отель Европа e0:÷zå \\\\\
Mikhaylovskaya ulitsa 1/7 Tell 329 6000 Fax

x 329 6002 Rooms 301 Map 6 F1
The Europe’s facilities may no longer be unique in St Petersburg, but its location just off Nevskiy prospekt is close
both to the main sights and to daily city life. There are historic interiors, and a wonderful, airy mezzanine café for
coffee and cakes after an exhausting day’s sightseeing. www.grandhoteleurope.com
GOSTINYY DVOR Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 e0:÷zå \\\\\

x 3359190 Rooms 197 Map 2 E5
Pamper yourself here: take a room with a view over the Hermitage, take lunch in the restaurant with views right
across the city, then, maybe, take a Turkish bath to relax after sightseeing, before attending a concert at the Capella
next door. Moika 22 opened in 2005 and just gets better every day. www.kempinski.com
SENNAYA PLOSHCHAD Alexander House Club 0zå \\\
Naberezhnaya Kryukova kanala 27 Tell 259 6877 Fax

x 259 6879 Rooms 14 Map 5 C4
In this family guest house, run as a boutique hotel, each room is named after and decorated in the style of a capital
city. Most have views, and two luxury suites have working fireplaces. Breakfast can be taken in the rooms. Although
there is no lift, rooms on the ground floor are accessible by wheelchair. www.a-house.ru
FURTHER AFIELD
EAST OF THE FONTANKA Neva e0å \
Chaykovskovo ulitsa 17 Tell 578 0500 Fax

x 273 2593 Rooms 129 Map 3 B4
Even renovation has done nothing to spoil the charm of the Neva, which opened in 1913 and functioned throughout
the Soviet period. No visa support is offered, but this is a prime location, a few minutes walk from the Summer
Gardens. Facilities include an excellent sauna with a small pool and massage cabinet. www.nevahotel.spb.ru
EAST OF THE FONTANKA Arbat Nord Арбат Норд e0zå \\\
Artilleriyskaya ulitsa 4 Tell 703 1899 Fax

x 703 1898 Rooms 33 Map 3 B5
The Arbat Nord is located close to the Summer Gardens and Field of Mars, in the residential and business district, and was
built originally, in 2003, for business guests. Today it also caters for tourist groups and individual travellers. Rooms are
modern with dark wood and pale walls; some are reserved for non-smokers. Free parking. www.arbat-nord.ru
EAST OF THE FONTANKA Brothers Karamazov Братья Карамазовы e0zå \\\
Sotsialisticheskaya ulitsa 11a Tell 335 1185 Fax

x 335 1186 Rooms 28 Map 7 A4
At the heart of Dostoyevsky country, close by the apartment (now a museum, see p130) where he wrote The
Brothers Karamazov. Each room is named after a heroine of one of the author’s works. Opened in 2004, the hotel is
airy, decorated mainly in white and cream – no Dostoyevskian tragedy here! www.karamazovhotel.ru
EAST OF THE FONTANKA Fifth Corner Business Hotel Пятый угол 0zå \\\
Zagorodnyy pr 13 Tell 380 8181 Fax

x 380 8181 Rooms 30 Map 7 A3
Specifically marketed as a business hotel, with many Russian clients, Fifth Corner emphasizes business-related
services. The hotel none the less provides visa and all other support for tourists, including excursions. All rooms are
uncluttered and overlook the street, although some only have showers rather than a full bathroom suite. www.5ugol.ru
EAST OF THE FONTANKA Moskva Москва e0÷zå \\\
Aleksandra Nevskogo ploschad 2 Tell 274 0022 Fax

x 274 2130 Rooms 735 Map 8 E3
In this vast, ex-Intourist hotel, service is old-fashioned, Soviet style (a bit slow at times). The Moskva is, however, the
most centrally located of the package-tour establishments, next door to the metro station and bus stops, and
opposite the Alexander Nevsky Monastery. It also has several bars and restaurants. www.hotel-moscow.ru
EAST OF THE FONTANKA Otkiabrskaya Откьябрская e0:÷å \\\
Ligovskiy prospekt 10 Tell 578 1144 Fax

x 3157501 Rooms 484 Map 7 C2
An expensive hotel, if judged on its facilities, but the location is grand. The extension opposite Moscow Station has
been renovated, so all rooms are now of a decent standard. In the main block, there is a glorious rabbit-warren of
corridors, and a sense of faded grandeur. www.oktober-hotel.spb.ru
EAST OF THE FONTANKA Hotel Dostoevskyy Отель Достоевский e0÷zå \\\\
Vladimirskiy prospekt 19 Tell 333 3203 Fax

x 331 3201 Rooms 207 Map 7 A3
Part of the 24-hour Vladimirskiy Passazh shopping mall, but an élite, very modern hotel with its own entrance. Most
rooms overlook courtyards, some offer views over the Vladimir Cathedral. The location is good for sightseeing, being
near Nevskiy prospekt, and for shopping at and around Kuznechnyy Market. www.dostoevsky-hotel.ru
EAST OF THE FONTANKA Corinthia Nevskijj Palace e0:÷zå \\\\\
Nevskiy prospekt 57 Tell 380 2001 Fax

x 380 1938 Rooms 285 Map 7 B2
This was one of the first new, post-Soviet hotels, built in the early 1990s. Bright and modern, it has numerous non-
smoking rooms and five bars and restaurants including the élite Landskrona, the Beerstube and, for tea and cakes,
the Café Vienna. Check out Sunday brunch in the Imperial. www.corinthia.ru
EAST OF THE FONTANKA Grand Hotel Emerald e0÷zå \\\\\
x 740 5006 Rooms 90

Suvorovskiy prospekt 18 Tell 740 5000 Fax Map 8 D2
A post-modern exterior hides a pseudo-historic interior filled with soft piano music and pot plants. There is a superb fitness
centre with a large sauna and Turkish bath. Afternoon tea is served in the atrium café in a glass-roofed courtyard.
The location is not absolutely central, but public transport links are excellent. www.grandhotelemerald.com
EAST OF THE FONTANKA Novotel Новотель e0:÷zå \\\\\
Mayakovskovo ulitsa 3a Tell 335 1188 Fax

x 335 1180 Rooms 233 Map 7 B2
Ultra-modern block tucked away a stone’s throw from Nevskiy prospekt. Executive suites on the ninth floor offer
superb views, and the Côte Jardin restaurant offers a Russian take on Mediterranean cooking. Business facilities are
excellent and, unusually for this city, three rooms have been specially adapted for disabled visitors. www.novotel.spb.ru
EAST OF THE FONTANKA Radisson SAS Royal

y Hotel e0÷zå \\\\\
Nevskiy prospekt 49/2 Tell 322 5000 Fax

x 322 5002 Rooms 164 Map 7 A2
Opened in 2001, the Radisson is a modern hotel set inside a historic building right on the busy Nevskiy prospekt. A
little removed from the central tourist area, its rooms and ground-floor Cannelle Bar and Café offer views of the
main street, bustling with shoppers and promenaders throughout the year. www.radissonsas.com
SOUTH OF THE CENTRE German Club Немецкий клуб

у eå \
Gastello ulitsa 20 Tell 371 5104 Fax

x 371 5690 Rooms 16
One of the city’s first “mini-hotels”, the German Club is modest but cosy, and set in a quiet location a short walk
from Moskovskaya metro station. Staff are very friendly and offer numerous extra, personalized services, from
arranging guided tours and tickets, to simple advice on where to go and what to do. www.hotelgermanclub.com
SOUTH OF THE CENTRE Mir Мир e0 \
Gastello ulitsa 17 Tell 708 5166 Fax

x 708 5165 Rooms 200
Mir is an unassuming 1970s hotel, popular with budget travellers. It is a short walk from Moskovskaya metro station
(providing direct access to the centre) and next to the beautiful Chesme Church. Rooms with shared facilities start at
$55, those with showers and phones at $84. Lots of Russians stay here. No visa support. www.hotelmir.spb.ru
SOUTH OF THE CENTRE Neptun

p Нептун
у e0:÷zå \\
Naberezhnaya Obvodnovo kanala 93a Tell 324 4691 Fax

x 324 4611 Rooms 150 Map 7 A5
A reliable, no-frills Best Western hotel attached to St Petersburg’s first business centre, opened in 1993. Set in a modern
building in a business district, Neptun offers rooms that are smart but without pretension, and efficient service. It is a
15-minute walk from the nearest metro, and has a superb sports and leisure complex. www.neptun.spb.ru
SOUTH OF THE CENTRE Rossiya Россия e0÷å \\
Chernyshevskovo ploschad 11 Tell 329 3909 Fax

x 389 3307 Rooms 409
Set somewhat apart amidst the Stalinist buildings of Moskovskiy prospekt, and refurbished to European standards, the
Rossiya remains unpretentious. It has 10 storeys, and rooms offer sweeping views of the southern part of town. Guests
comprise both Russians and tourists, and there is a lively atmosphere in the restaurant. www.rossiya-hotel.ru
y Советская
SOUTH OF THE CENTRE Sovetskaya e0:zå \\
Lermontovskiy prospekt 43/1 Tell 740 2640 Fax

x 740 2688 Rooms 1,000 Map 5 B5
Way down the Fontanka, this is a complex of three modern blocks a tram or taxi ride from the city centre. The 5-storey
Lermontov has relatively basic rooms. The 18-storey Riga is a little more upmarket and has stunning views along the river.
Renovated in 2004, Fontanka is a quiet block with the best rooms and apartments. www.sovetskaya.com
y Пулковская
SOUTH OF THE CENTRE Pulkovskaya у e0zå \\\
Pobedy ploschad 1 Tell 740 3900 Fax

x 740 3913 Rooms 840
This hotel is close to the airport and conveniently located for trips to the palaces of Tsarskoe Selo, Pavlovsk and
Gatchina. It is popular therefore with package tourists and business guests. In 2004 it was completely transformed
from a Soviet Intourist hotel to an up-to-date and efficient establishment. www.pulkovskaya.ru
Key to Price Guide see p174 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
WEST OF THE CENTRE Matisov Domik Матисов домик e0å \\
Naberezhnaya reki Pryazhki 3/1 Tell 495 1439 Fax

x 3495 2419 Rooms 46 Map 5 A3
Set in a quiet getaway location overlooking a tree-lined waterway, this is a friendly, modern hotel that has grown
from 7 rooms to 46 since it opened in 1994. Despite a lack of public transport nearby – guests must take a taxi or a
very long walk– it attracts many regulars, including a number of well-known Russians. www.matisov.spb.ru
y Прибалтийская
WEST OF THE CENTRE Pribaltiyskaya
y р e0zå \\\
x 356 4496 Rooms 1200

Korablestroiteley ulitsa 14 Tell 329 2626 Fax
The Pribaltiyskaya is a huge, 1980s package-tour hotel, recently revamped, set right on the Gulf of Finland. It boasts
superb views across the water, and a new water-park with pool and sports facilities. It is a long walk to the metro
from here – and in the winter it can be very windy – but buses and taxis are available. www.pribaltiyskaya.ru
NORTH OF THE NEVA Kronverk Кронверк

р р e0zå \\
Blokhina ulitsa 9 Tell 703 3663 Fax

x 449 6701 Rooms 26 Map 1 C3
This hotel is in an unusual and extremely attractive location on Petrogradskaya, right by the Peter and Paul Fortress, a
scenic walk across two bridges from the Hermitage. It is located in a high-tech business centre, and popular therefore
with business people as well as tourists. Apartments are available for longer stays. No visa support. www.kronverk.com
g Санкт-Петербург
NORTH OF THE NEVA St Petersburg р ур e0å \\
Pirogovskaya
g y naberezhnaya
y 5/2 Tell 380 1919 Fax
x 380 1920 Rooms 410 Map 3 A2
A modern package-tour hotel, in a central location, but a little cut off from public transport. Its main attraction lies in the
stunning views that can be had from rooms along the south side and the breakfast room on the bel-étage. In summer,
however, when the sun hardly sets, guests may wish to trade the views for the restful dark. www.hotel-spb.ru
NORTH OF THE NEVA Stonyy Island Hotel e0z \\\
Kamennoostrovskiy prospekt 45 Tell 337 2434 Fax

x 346 1973 Rooms 50 Map 2 D1
The historical building that houses the Stony Island Hotel was reconstructed in 2005 to a minimalist design, with straight
lines and plain colours. It is located on the elegant main street of the Petrograd Side, near Petrogradskaya metro, and is
aimed at regular visitors and those who dislike the busy city centre, rather than tourists. www.stonyisland.ru
EAST OF THE NEVA Okhtinskaya Охтинская e0å \\
Bolsheokhtinskiy prospekt 4 Tell 227 4438 Fax

x 227 2618 Rooms 294 Map 4 F3
Rooms in this hotel overlook the river near the Smolny Cathedral, somewhat compensating for its out-of-town location.
Public transport is widely available, but in summer the bridges are raised at 2am, so guests need to allow plenty of time
to get back after a night out. The building is modern, with airy rooms and public spaces. www.okhtinskaya.com
NOVGOROD Volkhov Волхов e0å \
Predtechenskaya ulitsa 24 Tell (8162) 335505 Fax

x (8162) 335526 Rooms 128
Volkhov has by far the best location of all the Novgorod hotels, in the historical centre by the Detinets or Kremlin.
The building is five storeys tall, with plain interiors. Rooms have showers rather than baths, and facilities are only
modest, though there is a sauna. There is also rather a lot of nylon in the decor. www.novtour.ru/volkhov.html
NOVGOROD Beresta Palace Береста палас отель e0÷å \\
Studencheskaya ulitsa 2a Tell (8162) 186910 Fax

x (8162) 186925 Rooms 211
The best equipped hotel in Novgorod, the Beresta Palace comprises a large, modern complex with huge conference
halls, tennis courts and a rather smart pool. Many rooms have views over the river Volkhov, and even the semi-
luxurious apartments are not very expensive. www.novtour.ru/beresta.html
PUSHKIN Natali Натали √h≤ \
Malaya ulitsa 56a Tell 466 2913 Fax

x 466 0277 Rooms 24
A privately run hotel on a quiet residential street in the leafy town of Pushkin, not far from Tsarskoe Selo palace. The
building is modern, opened in 2003. Although there is no lift, the Natali only has three storeys and some rooms are
on the ground floor. There are “romantic” rooms under the eaves. Visa support is not offered. www.hotelnatali.ru
STRELNA Baltic Star Hotel Отель Балтийская звезда e0÷zå \\\\\
Berezovaya alleya 3 Tell 438 5700 Fax

x 438 5888 Rooms 106 and 20 cottages
Set in the country between St Petersburg and Peterhof, beside the “re-created” presidential Constantine Palace,
which is used for state events and receptions, the Baltic Star is popular with official delegations. The modern building
has historic-style interiors, and 20 “cottages” for guests who prefer greater privacy. www.balticstar-hotel.ru
ZELENOGORSK Gelios Гелиос отель ¤:0:÷å \
Primorskoe shosse 593 Tell 702 2626 Fax

x 702 2622 Rooms 190 and 3 cottages
About 50km north of the city on the shore of the Gulf of Finland, this modern hotel surrounded by trees offers healthy
walks, skiing in winter and a spa centre with mud and mineral water treatments, hydromassage and a gym. Cottages in
the grounds must be booked well in advance. Visa support can be provided, but not registration. www.gelios-otel.ru
RESTAURANTS AND CAFÉS

H uge changes have taken
place on St Petersburg’s
restaurant scene in the
past few years. The big,
established places have been
Ethnic food from the former Soviet
republics and abroad provides a
wide selection of vegetarian
dishes. Small cafés offer a chance
to escape the more garish tourist
joined by numerous eateries traps found near some sights.
large and small. In addition, the And, though getting a plain green
concept of the “business lunch”, salad may still pose a problem,
Sign for
with an inexpensive fixed-price Noble Nest
other fresh salads are offered by
menu, has taken a firm hold – most restaurants and good-quality
a boon to travellers who like to eat cafés. For a list of recommended
well despite a limited budget. restaurants and cafés, see pp184–91.
T Salkhino (see p184) or
Try
Lagidze (see p188) for
Georgian food, Erivan (see
p187) for Armenian cuisine,
and Apsheron (see p188) for
an Azeri experience. Oriental
restaurants are numerous if
generally uninspiring; the
Indonesian Sukawati (see
p187) is a rare exception.
READING THE MENU
Large restaurants and some

cafés have menus in English.
Any restaurant that accepts
credit cards will have English-
Podvorie restaurant, a re-creation of a 17th-century wooden house (see p191) speaking waiters, and, in
those places that do not,
WHERE TO EAT Russian style. Dining trends most waiters try to overcome
include “imperial Russian”, in language difficulties.
Restaurants on Nevskiy a historic interior (The Noble
prospekt tend to be expensive 8 minimalism
Nest, see p188); PAYMENT AND TIPPING
and not very good. A few steps ( quarel, see p184);
(A 4 and
off Nevskiy, however, a variety themed (Lenin’s Mating Call, Many larger restaurants
of eateries line the streets – 8 Top-range
see p188). maintain the practice of pricing
Bolshaya Konyushennaya, restaurants serve a mix of in “y.e.” or “conditional units”,
Karavannaya, Vladimirskiy European and Russian dishes, a euphemism for dollars or
prospekt and ulitsa Vosstaniya
V with some Asian elements. euros. In such cases, it is wise
– offering something to suit The former Soviet republics to check the exact rouble value
most pockets and tastes. Georgia and Armenia have left of one “y.e.”. This information
Venture out a little further, and
V their mark on Russian cuisine. may appear on the menu or
the short ulitsa Belinskovo, for on a sign at the cash desk.
instance, offers at least five Major restaurants accept
highly recommended options. most credit cards, but it is
advisable to check before-
TYPES OF RESTAURANT hand. The listings (see
pp184–91) in the guide give
All large hotels offer good an indication of price ranges
eating opportunities, but hotel in dollars, but restaurants
restaurants are included in the cannot by law accept foreign
guide only if they are out- currencyy (see p215). Guests
standing or found in places must pay with cash roubles
that are short on places to eat. or a credit card.
Style and fashion now Tips are 10–15 per cent
dominate in some restaurants, unless service is already
so the food often suffers and included in the bill. To
prices can be unjustifiably ensure the waiter receives the
high. Other establishments, tip, it is best to give it in cash,
however, manage to combine Outdoor café in the arcade of rather than including it in a
food, decor and service in fine Gostinyy dvor (see p108) credit card payment.
U R A N T S A N D C A F É S 179
OPENING TIMES SMOKING
Most restaurants in St Most restaurants still allow

Petersburg open at smoking, but ever more
noon and stay open places either have non-
until around 11pm or smoking areas or – albeit
midnight. Increasingly, more rarely – ban smoking
the more expensive altogether. A few have a
restaurants, and small, separate room that can
particularly those that be booked in advance for any
are attached to a occasion and declared a “no
casino or nightclub smoking” zone. The disadvant-
(see pp204–5), may age is that such rooms are cut
stay open well into the off from the atmosphere of
early morning hours. the main restaurant.
Cafés close early,
usually around 10pm. DRESS CODE
For those who wish
to eat after an evening Formal dress is de rigueurr only
event, the Magrib café in large and very fashionable
(see p193) serves a restaurants, but guests should
range of food all night The beautifully decorated interior of the always be neatly and cleanly
long. A number of Russian Room in the Demidoff (see p190) dressed. TTrainers and
bars, for example tracksuits are acceptable in
Jili-bili (see p192), offer food their needs. A number of city the less expensive cafés.
into the small hours. In eateries, such as La Strada
addition, if all else fails, the (see p187) and Tres
T Amigos DISABLED ACCESS
lights of many fast-food (see p190) have parties and
outlets, such as Layma (see even nannies at weekends. Only a few restaurants have
p193), are often to be found Fashionable bars such as Che ramps or no stairs at all, but
burning after midnight. (see p204) also arrange waiters and doormen are
Sunday morning entertain- used to intrepid Europeans in
ments for the kids. Some wheelchairs (Russians in
places advertised to foreigners wheelchairs rarely venture
– but none in this guide – outside the home) and are
have “entertainment” that is usually very helpful.
not suitable for children. Cafés and bars prove more
problematic, with stairs and
LIVE MUSIC narrow doors, and certainly
no disabled toilets.
Most restaurants and cafés People with disabilities may
have some kind of music on find themselves confined to
Street sign for Pirosmani (see p191) Fridays or Saturdays – DJs
D hotel dining or the more
spinning disks or live acts. expensive eateries and bars.
MAKING A RESERVATION The listings that follow on
pages 184 to 191 note only
It is always advisable to book those which have live music WEBSITES
ahead, especially during the on other days as well. Most restaurant websites
White Nights (see p51) when are in Russian only, or are
upmarket restaurants may VEGETARIANS poorly maintained.
take bookings weeks in Many places do not run
advance. Your hotel concierge Traditional Russian food is
T independent websites, but
can help. Smaller restaurants meat oriented, but the appear on the St Petersburg
and cafés do not require increasing number of eateries restaurant site, which has an
reservations, but as they rely aimed at a more Westernized English-language version at
on special events such as crowd, such as Krokodil (see www.restoran.ru
weddings and birthdays they p186), include vegetarian There are reviews of many
sometimes close unexpectedly. options, and Georgian and restaurants and cafés in
Armenian cuisines offer a wide Russian and English at
CHILDREN range of vegetable and bean www.eng.peterout.ru/eda
dishes. At the time of writing, For Russian speakers,
Russians are acquiring the there is one lone vegetarian there are now many listings and
habit of taking their children restaurant, Chintamani (see reviews online. Try
out to dine with them. On the p181), and a small number www.menu.ru
whole Russians love children, of vegetarian cafés. or the excellent archive of reviews
few restaurants will refuse For those who eat fish, at the Time Out site,
them entry, and staff will however, there is always www.spb.timeout.ru
often adjust dishes to meet plenty of choice.
The Flavours of St Petersburg

Russia’s culinary reputation centres on warming
stews, full of wintery vegetables such as cabbage,
beetroot and potatoes. Yet St Petersburg was once
the capital of a vast empire stretching from Poland
to the Pacific and this is reflected in the variety of
food on offer there. Aubergine (eggplant) and
tomatoes, from the Caucasus in the south, bring in the
flavours of the Mediterranean, while spices from Ce
Asia lend an exotic touch. On the stalls of the city’s
Kuznechniy Market, caviar and crayfish sit alongside
honey from Siberia and melons and peaches from G
pickles. There is a refreshing stale bread with sugar and a
soup, solianka, in which scattering of fruit. Summer
pickled cucumbers impart a visitors should make a point
delicious salty taste. Pickled of trying the delicious cold
mushrooms in sour cream soup okroshka, which is
make a regular appearance based on kvas.
on restaurant menus, as do a Russia is also a land with
variety of fresh berry juices. hundreds of rivers and lakes,
In a country where food and has a long tradition of
shortages are a fairly recent fish cookery. Dishes range
memory, very little is wasted. from simple soups, such as
Kvas, a popular, mildly ukha, to caviar and sturgeon,
alcoholic drink is frequently and salmon cooked in a
made at home by fermenting bewildering variety of ways.
Pickled mushrooms Spiced feta
Caviar, the roe of sturgeon from Blinis Rye bread
Russia’s warm southern waters Gherkins
RUSSIAN COUNTRYSIDE
Many St Petersburgers have

small country houses within
easy reach of the city, and
spend weekends from spring
to early winter tending their
immaculate vegetable
gardens, or combing the
countryside for wild berries
and mushrooms. Much of
this bountiful harvest is
made into preserves and yp p kuski (cold appertizers)
LOCAL DISHES AND SPECIALITIES

Borschtt (beetroot soup) and blinis
(buttery pancakes) with caviar
are perhaps two of the most
famous Russian dishes – one
a peasant dish which varies
with the availability of
ingredients and the other a
staple for the week leading up
to Lent, when rich food would be eaten
to fatten up before the fast. Much of
Beetroot Russia’s cuisine is designed to make
use of what is readily to hand or is
warming and filling. A popular main course is kulebiaka,
a hearty fish pie, larded with eggs, rice, dill and onion and Borscht Made with meat or
encased in a buttery crust. Another is beef stroganoff with vegetable stock, this beetroot
its creamy mushroom sauce, created in 18th-century soup is usually served with
St Petersburg by the chef of the wealthy Stroganoff family. dill and soured cream.
R E S T A U R A N T S A N D C A F E S 181
culinary traditions based on

the nomadic lifestyles of
Russia’s one-time overlords,
the Mongol or Tartar Hordes.
The meat of fat-tailed sheep,
which thrive in the dry
desert air, is used to make
communal piles of plov
(pilaf) around which guests
sit, eating in the traditional
manner with their hands.
Served in St Petersburg’s
Uzbek restaurants, it shares
the menu with delicious flat
breads, spicy noodle soups,
mantii (tasty dumplings
reminiscent of Chinese
Market vegetable stall in St Petersburg cuisine) and a variety of
melons and grapes, which
THE CAUCASUS Georgians are particularly proliferate in the desert
known for their longevity. oases, and apricots and nuts,
The former Soviet states of grown in the mountains.
the Caucasus – Georgia, CENTRAL ASIA
Azerbaijan and Armenia –
ZAKUSKI
are renowned for their From the Central Asian
legendary banquets, where republics of the old Soviet A traditional Russian meal
the tables are laden with an Union come a range of generally begins with zakuski,
enormous quantity and a selection of cold appetizers.
variety of food and drink. These may include pickled
They still supply Russia’s mushrooms ((gribii), gherkins
cities with a tempting range (ogurtsi),
i salted herrings
of fine subtropical produce. (seliodka), an assortment of
Limes, lemons, oranges, smoked fish, blinis topped
walnuts, figs, pomegranates, with caviar, various vegetable
peaches, beans, salty cheeses pâtés (sometimes known as
and herbs are all shipped in vegetable caviars), stuffed
season to St Petersburg’s eggs ((yaitsa farshirovanniyee),
markets and its many spiced feta cheese (brinza),
Georgian restaurants. The beetroot salad (salat
( iz svyokla)
cuisine of Georgia, with its and small meat pies (pirozhki
( i),
focus on freshly grilled accompanied by rye bread
meats, pulses, vegetables, and washed down with shots
yogurt, herbs and nut sauces of vodka. A bowl of steaming
– including the hallmark soup often follows, before the
walnut sauce, satsivii – is Freshly picked lingonberries from main course reaches the table.
famously healthy and Russia’s bumper autumn harvest
Kulebiaka Rich, buttery puff Pelmeni These meat-stuffed Kissel A mix of red berries is
pastry is wrapped around a dumplings may be served in used to make this soft, fruity
mix of fish, hard-boiled eggs, a clear broth, or with tomato jelly, which is served topped
rice, onion and chopped dill. sauce or soured cream. with a swirl of fresh cream.
What to Drink in St Petersburg

Russian vodka is famous throughout
the world and the Liviz distillery in St
Petersburg is Russia’s second largest
distillery, the largest being in
Moscow. Vodka first appeared in
Russia sometime in the 14th or 15th
Flavoured
vodka
century. Peter the Great (see p18) was
particularly fond of anise- or pepper-
flavoured vodkas and devised modifications to
the distillation process which greatly improved
the quality of the finished drink.
Tea is Russia’s other national drink. Traditionally
made using a samovar and served black, tea has
been popular in Russia since the end of the 18th A 19th-century Russian peasant family
century, when it was first imported from China. drinking vodka and tea
CLEAR VODKA
Vodka is produced from grain, usually wheat,

although some rye is also used in Russia.
Local Liviz vodkas dominate in St Petersburg,
the best of which are Diplomat, Five Star and
Russian Standard. Moscow’s
Kristall company, which
produces Kristall and Gzhelka
vodka, is increasingly popular,
while Flagman distillery proudly
proclaims that it is the official
purveyor of vodka to the
Kremlin. The range of vodkas
available these days is over-
whelming. There is one golden
rule: if it is under $3 or $4 for
half a litre, do not drink it.
Vodka is always served with food, often with a
range of richly flavoured accompaniments called
zakuskii (see p181), particularly black bread,
pickled cucumbers and herring. Vodka is not
Diplomat Russian Standard Five Star always served ice cold, but it should be chilled.
FLAVOURED VODKA
The practice of flavouring vodka has entirely

practical origins. When vodka was first produced
commercially in the Middle Ages, the techniques
and equipment were so primitive that it was
impossible to remove all the
purities. This left unpleasant
omas and flavours, which
ere disguised by adding honey
gether with aromatic oils and
ices. As distillation techniques
proved, flavoured vodkas
came a speciality in their own
ght. Limonnaya, its taste
riving from lemon zest, is
one of the most traditional, as is
Pertsovka, flavoured with red chilli pepper pods.
Klukvennaya (cranberry) and Oblepikha (sea
buckthorn, an orange Siberian berry) are also
favourites. Some of the best flavoured vodkas
are made at home by soaking peach stones or
whole berries in alcohol for months. Limonnaya Klukvennaya Oblepikha
MAJOR WINE REGIONS

Wine growing region Russia
Moldova Georgia
Ukraine Armenia
Azerbaijan
International boundaries
WINE
The Soviet Union was one of the world’s largest producers

of wine (vino), but many of the major wine regions are now
republics in their own right. Several indigenous types of
grape are cultivated in the different regions, along with
many of the more familiar international varieties.
Georgia is considered the best wine-making area. Its wines
include those made from the Rkatsiteli grape, characterized by
a floral aroma and subtle, fruity flavour, and the Gurdzhaani
which gives a unique, slightly bitter touch. Among its best red
wines is the smooth Mukuzani. Moldova produces
white, sparkling wines in the south and central
regions, while the south is also known for its red
wines. Since 1799, Moldova also
W produces a sweet, champagne-like
and red Georgian wine p wine called Shampanskoe.
OTHER ALCOHOLIC DRINKS
Brandy (konyak) was originally a by-product of wine-making and

commercial production only began in Russia in the 19th century.
Armenian brandy is one of the finest with a distinctive vanilla fragrance,
resulting from its ageing in 70–100-year-old oak barrels. Georgia and
Daghestan also produce good brandies. St Petersburg beer
(
(pivo) is amongst the best in Russia. Baltika, Vena and
Stepan Razin make a full range of beers in bottles and on
draught. In addition, Tver beers such as Afanasy are well-
worth trying. Various imported beers are also available. Baltika Armenian
Beer brandy
OTHER DRINKS
Kvas is a lightly fermented drink made from rye and

barley, consumed by adults and children alike. Russia’s
vast range of mineral waters (mineralnaya voda)
includes many with unusually high mineral contents.
Mineral waters from the Caucasus are particularly
prized. Also widely available are fruit juices (sok, mors
or kompot),
t including cranberry (klyukva). Look out for
traditional Russian sbiten, made from honey and herbs.
Mineral water Kvas Cranberry
juice
TEA
THE SAMOVAR
Russian tea is served black with a Made from brass or copper and
slice of lemon and may be drunk heated by coals in the central
from tall glasses or cups. Sweetened chimney, samovars traditionally
with jam instead of sugar, tea (chay) y is provided boiling water for a
an ideal accompaniment to wide variety of domestic
rich cakes and pastries. The purposes and were an
boiling water for tea essential wedding gift.
traditionally comes from a Modern electric ones
samovar. The water is used are made of stainless
to brew a pot of tea, from steel and are used
which a little is mainly for boiling water to
poured into a make tea. The word samovar
cup and is then comes from samo meaning “it-
A glass of tea, with jam diluted with self” and varitt meaning “to boil”.
(varenye) to sweeten it more hot water.
Choosing a Restaurant PRICE CATEGORIES

The following price ranges are for a
three-course meal for one including a
The restaurants in this section have been selected across glass of house wine, all unavoidable
charges and a modest service charge (tip).
a wide price range for their good value and exceptional
\ Under $25
food. Within each area, entries are listed alphabetically \\ $25–$40
within each price category, from the least to the most \\\ $40–$60
\\\\ $60–$80
expensive. For details of Light Meals and Snacks, see \\\\\ over $80
pages 192–3. For map references, see pp238–45.
VASILEVSKIY
S S ISLAND
S
Chintamani ¤:©, \
6-ya liniya 15, Vasilevskiy ostrov Tell 325 2214 Map 1 A5

A no-smoking, vegetarian café-restaurant that does not serve coffee. The emphasis is on fresh vegetables in this rare
establishment; one of the few non-fusion restaurants in the city that serves asparagus and spinach – and knows
what to do with them. Try cheese and spinach salad or tagliatellii with mushroom sauce.
Imperator Император :f©, \
Tamozhennyy pereulok 2 Tell 323 3031 Map 1 C5

The Strelka has a number of restaurants but none of them can match Imperator for price. Tucked away in the
basement of the Academy of Sciences, next to the Kunstkammer, it serves the usual mix of European and Caucasian
cuisine, with the slightly odd addition of Mexican dishes. The small non-smoking room should be booked ahead.
Czardas :f © \\
Naberezhnaya Makarova 22 Tell 323 8588 Map 1 A4

Slightly out of the way perhaps – a place to walk to if you enjoy an amble around the leafy residential lanes of
Vasilevskiy Island – this colourful Hungarian restaurant has remained consistently good since it opened (which is
unusual for the St Petersburg restaurant scene). With river views, it is the ideal spot for a quiet lunch.
Ketino Кетино ¤:f © \\\
8-ya liniya 23, Vasilevskiy ostrov Tell 326 0196 Map 1 A5

Ketino is the sister Georgian restaurant to Salkhino on Petrogradskaya, with a larger, slightly less intimate though none
the less friendly setting. Take their advice on what to order, but not in great quantities: once you have tried one dish,
you may want everything else on the menu. (Llobio with green beans and spices, for example.) Wine can be expensive.
Russian Kitsch Русский китч ¤7:f © \\\\
Universitetskaya naberezhnaya 25 Tell 325 1122 Map 5 B1

A slightly ironic, grand venue with luxurious, if not always tasteful, trappings from the period of Perestroika – painted
ceilings, green marble and gilt. The menu consists of a mix of fusion and sushi rather than pelmenii and cabbage, but
the popular dance floor is very Russian. Glass galleries give views across the Neva. www.concord-catering.ru
New Island : \\\\\
Rumyantsevskiy spusk, Universitetskaya naberezhnaya Tell 320 2100 Map 5 B1

This floating restaurant, much loved by the powerful, has played host to Bush, Putin and Chirac. In winter the boat is
reserved for banquets, but from late spring to autumn it sails four times daily (at 2pm, 4pm, 8pm and 10.30pm). Eat
caviar and blinii as the boat sails past the Winter Palace towards the Smolnyy, where it turns back to its moorings.
Old Customs House Старая таможня :f˚ \\\\\
Tamozhennyy pereulok 1 Tell 327 8980 Map 1 C5

Conveniently located behind the Kunstkammer at the tip of the Strelka, the House is a good, reliable estalishment
with a general air of bonhomie. It has a strongly French orientation in its wines and menu, and serves plenty of meat.
The vaulted interior is of unplastered brick, and there is an open kitchen, a balcony and a private room.
PETROGRADSKAYA
OG S
Demyanova Ukha :f \
Kronverkskiy prospekt 53 Tell 232 8090 Map 1 C3

The city’s first specialist fish restaurant retains its premier position over the competition by dint of hard work and
unpretentious, traditional, hearty cooking. Fittingly, the name Demyanova Ukha (“Demyanov’s Fish Soup”) is a
reference to a Russian tale about an over-zealous host forcing ever more food on his guests.
Key to Symbols see back cover flap

Morkovka Морковка 7:©, \\
Bolshoy prospekt 32, Petrogradskaya Tell 233 9635 Map 1 C2

Morkovka means “carrot”, and the menu here is dominated by fresh fruit and vegetables, healthy, low-fat food and
conceivably the widest range of freshly squeezed juices east of Berlin. The minimalist interior is decorated in green
and red – like peppers and tomatoes. High chairs are available, and this is a great place for health-conscious families.
Salkhino Салхино ¤:© \\
Kronverkskiy prospekt 25 Tell 232 7891 Map 2 D2

Generous home cooking is offered at this sister restaurant to Ketino on Vasilevskiy Island, by two Georgian women who
know how to tempt. Their khachapurii (cheese-filled bread) is arguably the best in town. Try the aubergine (eggplant) stuff-
ed with walnuts. Be wary, however, of allowing the staff to order for you: it is easy to end up with more than you can eat.
Tbiliso Тбилисо :f \\
Sytninskaya ulitsa 10 Tell 232 9391 Map 2 D2

A Georgian eaterie. The waiters wear Georgian dress and suitably impressive moustaches, and the authentic menu includes
such dishes as mamalyga (ground corn with salted cheese), which will turn a true Georgian’s knees weak with joy. Tables
are arranged to create booths for privacy – a “true” Georgian man dines only with his lady love and close friends.
Volna Волна :˚ \\
Petrovskaya naberezhnyaya 4 Tell 322 5383 Map 2 F3

One of the cheaper fusion restaurants in town, with an Asian accent on the menu. The Japanese-style minimalist
interior complements the cuisine. Try the Italian lettuce with salmon tempura or the grilled white salmon with mint
and prawn sauce. Volna is found just behind the Cabin of Peter the Great.
Zver Зверь 7:f \\
Aleksandrovskiy park 5 Tell 232 2062 Map 2 E3

Zver means “wild animal” and every hunter’s catch imaginable is available here, from wild boar to hare. The place
resembles a huge steak house, with long wooden tables and hearty portions, and has a good children’s menu. It is
set deep among trees; avoid the garish pavilions opposite the Fortress, and plunge further into the park to find it.
Austeria Аустерия
у р : \\\
Peter and Paul Fortress Tell 230 0369 Map 2 E3

Location is Austeria’s strong point – right by Peter and Paul Fortress – and those who plan to see all the sights
hereabouts will certainly need refreshment. The interior re-creates Peter the Great’s favourite Dutch style, as does the
Fortress Cathedral, while the menu comprises traditional Russian dishes.
Na zdorovye! На здоровье! 7:f \\\
Bolshoy prospekt 13, Petrogradskaya Tell 232 4039 Map 1 B3

Those who have seen and liked Boris Kustodiev’s colourful pictures of buxom Russian beauties in the Russian Museum
will love the garish interior of Na zdorovye. The name translates as “Your health!”, and guests who practise the toast
here will soon find themselves clinking glasses, in a whirl of Russian hospitality, to the sound of gypsy songs.
Moskva Москва ˚ \\\\
6th floor, City Centre Business Centre, Petrogradskaya naberezhnaya 18 Tell 332 0200 Map 2 F2
This self-styled “panoramic restaurant” offers great views from its upper platform. Tucked away at the top of a business
centre, art rubs shoulders with money here in yet another professionally designed, minimalist interior. Popular for
creative events, product launches and exhibitions, Moskva also hosts big-name performers occasionally at weekends.
Aquarel Акварель
р :˚f \\\\\
Near Birzhevoy Bridge, Petrogradskaya Storona Tell 320 8600 Map 1 C4

The city’s most fashionable, and most expensive, hi-tech fusion restaurant, with modern, luxurious decor. Effectively a
glass box, it sits on a pontoon on the River Neva, and offers great views. On the first floor is Aquarel itself, but one
floor up the prices are nearly halved in the restaurant’s second hall, an Italian bistro called Aquarellissimo.
Terrace Террас
рр : \\\\\
Flying Dutchman, Mytninskaya naberezhnaya, Birzhevoy most Tell 336 3737 Map 1 C4
On board the frigate Flying Dutchman, this modern restaurant boasts a fireplace and broad views across the Neva to
the Winter Palace. European and Latin American dishes are on the menu; there are sushi and salad bars, and a
selection of elegant pastries. A nanny is available, and you can halve your bill by dining in the Zebra Bar.
PALACE EMBANKMENT
Da Albertone 7:, \
Millionnaya ulitsa 23 Tell 315 8673 Map 2 E5

Just behind the Hermitage, this plain Italian restaurant is an oustanding option for those with children. The kids’ menu
offers animal-shaped pizzas, there is a richly equipped children’s room, and a nanny is available every day from noon
until late. For added adult indulgence, there are 40 types of pizza and a variety of pasta dishes. No smoking before 11pm.
Oliva Олива :f©, \
Bolshaya Morskaya ulitsa 31 Tell 314 6563 Map 6 D2

This huge taverna, with five airy rooms and its own bakery, offers a healthy and varied Greek menu, with plenty of
Greek wines and spirits, an extensive salad bar and range of Mediterranean hors d’oeuvres. One room, mainly for
families, is non-smoking. Oliva is perfect for a late dinner, after a walk around town during the White Nights.
Senat Bar Сенат-бар 7:f©, \
Galernaya ulitsa 1 Tell 314 9253 Map 5 C1

Senat is known for its “imperial” interior, with portraits and busts of tsars, and 19th-century antiques, and for its
elegant Russian and European menu. Despite the fact that women are present and there is dancing in the evenings,
the mood is masculine, with lots of business diners – some doing deals, others just relaxing.
1913 7:f˚©, \\
Voznesenskiy prospekt 13 Tell 315 5148 Map 5 C2

Named after the last year of Russian imperial greatness, 1913 prides itself on generous portions and outstanding regional
dishes such as dranikii (potato pancakes) with bacon, and sorrel soup, as well as “fine” dishes such as lobster. A warm
atmosphere and excellent service compensate for a bland interior. A singer and guitarist perform Russian songs from 8pm.
Christopher Columbus Христофор

р ф р Колумб
у :f \\

Not surprisingly, given the name, at Christopher Columbus both food and decor have a strong maritime theme.
Amongst the portholes and ropes, there is even a parrot. There is also a wide choice of fish – try fillet of pike-perch
with jasmine rice, or crab with basil and kumquat sauce – and a great willingness to adapt dishes to clients’ requests.
Gastronom Гастроном :© \\
Marsovo Pole 7 Tell 314 3849 Map 2 F5

With its fashionable mixture of Italian and Japanese cuisine – plus a dash of Russian in its jellied meats with
horseradish and mustard – the menu is aimed at a young crowd. But with a location like this, and tables on the
pavement in summer, Gastronom is always going to be popular with tourists of all ages, even just for a beer.
Krokodil Крокодил
р :©, \\
Galernaya ulitsa 18 Tell 314 9437 Map 5 B2

Krokodil offers easily the best value for money in the St Isaac’s area. Small, dark and intimate, it was one of the first
restaurants to introduce fresh salads, plentiful vegetarian options and a non-smoking room. There is a second branch
at Kazanskaya ulitsa 24, but this is definitely the best.
Spoon :˚© \\

Despite being extremely fashionable, Spoon manages to keep its profile and its prices low. The informed might recognize
some famous local faces settled in the cosy armchairs on almost any night of the week. Light European cuisine is
served in a relaxed café-style atmosphere. A rare combination of style and substance.
Vienna :˙f \\
Malaya Morskaya ulitsa Tell 571 3127 Map 6 D1

Vienna seems to have been around on the restaurant scene for ages – and it has. Founded at the turn of the 19th and
20th centuries, it survived the Soviet era intact and remains much loved by Russians celebrating weddings (and, indeed,
anything else). The menu concentrates on Austrian dishes. Try the trout stuffed with mushrooms and leeks
Canvas :f© \\\
Renaissance Hotel, Pochtamtskaya ulitsa 4 Tell 380 4000 Map 5 C2

The breakfast room in this modern hotel in the quiet area beyond St Isaac’s turns into a restaurant later in the day. In
an area that is rather deprived of quality restaurants – most emphasise historic interiors to the detriment of the
cooking – Canvas concentrates on food and service, and offers fine, traditional European cuisine.
g Эрмитажный
Hermitage р :˚© \\\
Under the arch of the General Staff Building, Palace Square Tell 314 4772 Map 6 D1
On the ground floor of the General Staff Building, a wing of the Hermitage Museum, this eaterie divides customers
into VIPs (who get the tables with views), “general” and tourists. Food is average Euro-Russian fare, though attractively
served, but nobody who loves the museum, and that includes some very famous people, can resist eating here.
Park Парк :f˚ \\\
Naberezhnaya kanala Griboedova 2v Tell 571 7309 Map 2 F5

On the corner of the Mikhaylovskiy Garden, with views across the Moyka to the Field of Mars, this is an ideal White
Nights location; a place for eating late and sipping Italian wine as the sun gently dips, but never sets. The menu is
Italian, with Neapolitan pizza baked in a wood-burning stove. A terrace is open for summer dining al fresco.
Bellevue :f© \\\\\
Moika Hotel, Naberezhnaya reki Moyki 22 Tell 335 9111 Map 2 E5

On the 9th floor, Bellevue offers such superlative views over the city centre, of Palace Square and the Winter Palace,
that diners may be tempted to ignore the food. But the French-dominated menu is good, if not cheap. This place
charges for the food itself, and not for a merely stylish veneer, the way some other St Petersburg restaurants do.
GOSTINYY DVOR
Blinnyy domik 7:f©, \
Kolokolnaya ulitsa 8 Tell 315 9915 Map 7 B2

Full of pine tables and kitsch detail, this modest, bustling pancake house is hugely popular with Russians and non-
Russians alike, even though the English menu is sometimes difficult to comprehend. Try pancakes stuffed with local
forest mushrooms or fish. For the strong-headed, there is medovukha, the Russian equivalent of mead.
Fasol Фасоль : \
Gorokhovaya ulitsa 17 Tell 571 7454 Map 6 D2

Fasoll means haricot bean, but this is not a vegetarian restaurant. It does, however, have plenty of healthy, relatively
low-fat dishes on its restaurant-scale menu. Service is speedy, and the interior is modern, café-style. By virtue of its
superb location on the corner of the Moyka, there is nowhere better for filling up while walking the canals.
La Strada :© \
Bolshaya Konyushennaya 27 Tell 312 4700 Map 6 E1

Pasta and pizza are made in full view of the diners, in an “Italian courtyard” complete with a fake balcony, set beneath
a crystal cupola that comes into its own during White Nights. The food is standard Italian fare, but the management
are genuinely child friendly, providing a nanny at weekends from noon to 10pm, and a children’s room all week.
Literary Café Литературное кафе :f©, \
Nevskiy prospekt 18 Tell 312 6057 Map 6 E1

This is the former Wolff and Beranger Café, from where the idolized Russian poet Alexander Pushkin set off for his fatal
duel. The venue retains its popularity with tourists and lovers of Russian literature, though the experience of eating here is
more exciting historically than gastronomically. Traditional, rather heavy dishes are served, with lots of meat in rich sauces.
Sukawati :f©, \
Kazanskaya ulitsa 8 Tell 312 0540 Map 6 E2

One of the few Asian restaurants in the city that gets both setting and food right. The setting is clean, with blond wood
furniture and white walls. The food is excellent Indonesian with some Japanese, and saté that does not disappoint.
Service is quietly efficient. Sukawati is found just behind Kazan Cathedral, 200 yards from Nevskiy prospekt.
Suliko Сулико ¤:f© \
Kazanskaya ulitsa 6 Tell 314 7373 Map 6 E2

Most central of all the truly Georgian restaurants, tucked away behind the Kazan Cathedral, Suliko is a lot cheaper
than the Kavkaz-Bar and popular with Georgians themselves. More meat- than vegetable-oriented, there is no
pandering to European tastes here. Try Georgian wines: Saperavi for a sharp red, Mukuzani for a cooling white.
Vostochnyy Ugolok Восточный уголок ¤:© \
Gorokhovaya ulitsa 52 Tell 713 5747 Map 6 E3

It is the fact that it is not geared to tourists or rich Russians that makes this chaikhana or Azeri “tea-drinking” house
so charming. A range of Caucasian meals are served. Try dushbara soup with lamb and mint, sitting surrounded by
Oriental carpets in a bustling atmosphere. Lots of Azeris and other nationalities from Central Asia come here.
Kalinka-Malinka Калинка-Малинка :f \\
Italyanskaya ulitsa 5 Tell 314 2681 Map 6 F1

“Kalinka-Malinka” is the Russian folk song that is played whenever a Russian appears in a Hollywood film or on TV.
Kalinka-Malinka the restaurant has a rustic, wooden-hut interior and serves traditional Russian meals, with romantic
songs and folk music most evenings. It attracts lots of tourists and groups, but is none the worse for that.
Ket u Mimino Кэт у Мимино :f, \\
Karavannaya ulitsa 24 Tell 315 3800 Map 7 A1

A small and comfortable basement restaurant, Ket specializes in European and Georgian dishes; the owner prides
himself on being descended from Georgian princes. Rare for the city centre in attracting mainly local customers, and
remarkable for its lack of pretension, this is a good place to mix with “old-style” Russians.
Mama Roma Мама Рома 7:© \\

One of the city’s first authentic Italian restaurants, Mama Roma attracts many middle-class Russians. Like any good
Italian restaurant, the interior is light and airy, and children are welcome. There is a junior menu and toys. The
excellent Vinarium downstairs is a good place to buy wine for a boat trip.
Erivan Еривань :˚© \\\
Naberezhnaya reki Fontanki 51 Tell 703 3820 Map 6 F2

All three rooms are furnished in Armenian style, with rugs and brightly coloured tablecloths and crockery. Ignore the
VIP room and head for the Rural Room. All dishes are traditional, with lots of mutton and veal – which are hard to
find in Europe today – and rarities such as brains in olive oil.
Kavkaz-Bar Кавказ-бар :© \\\

Caucasian (Georgian and Armenian) cuisine, and excellent Georgian wines and brandies are on offer here – at a
price. Kavkaz-Bar has a superb location close to Nevskiy prospekt, and an intimate atmosphere. It also serves the best
vegetarian kebabs in town. A selection of dishes is available in the less formal outer café, overlooking a quiet square.
Caviar Bar and Restaurant 7:f˚ \\\\
Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhaylovskaya ulitsa 1/7 Tell 329 6651 Map 6 F1
Open in the evenings only, this bar-restaurant has the most elegant and varied ways of serving caviar and fish in
town. Try caviar in quail’s egg, salmon marinaded in vodka, or one of the monthly special Russian regional dishes.
The interior is tiny with a small fountain, rather like a grotto in an 18th-century park.
Count Suvoroff Граф

р ф Суворов
у р :˚ \\\\
Ulitsa Lomonosova 6 Tell 315 4328 Map 6 F2

The Count Suvoroff has an imperial theme. Most dishes derive from pre-revolutionary menus, and the elegant interior
is decorated in the style of the early 19th century, with an abundance of candlesticks and polished silver. Across the
corridor, the affiliated café-bar Poruchik (Ensign) Rzhevskiy serves similar food in a more lively, informal setting.
L’Europe Европа
р 7:f˙˚©, \\\\
Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhaylovskaya ulitsa 1/7 Tell 329 6630 Map 6 F1
This cavernous, Art-Nouveau (Style-Moderne) hall with stained-glass ceiling is not a re-creation of St Petersburg’s glorious
past, but the real thing, beautifully restored. The food is first-class European – lobster soup, steak tartare – but there
are regular special events and celebrations of Russian cuisine. Sunday brunch attracts many Russian and ex-pat locals.
Shyolk Шёлк :˚© \\\\
Malaya Konyushennaya ulitsa 4/2 Tell 571 5078 Map 6 E1

The silk of the title is found in the sofas and the ladies’ dresses, shimmering in the light of many candles. This is definitely
a place for a romantic dinner. There is no live music, but DJs turn discs at the weekend. At lunchtime the restaurant
attracts executives from the offices on the quieter streets around. Occasionally there are cigar and wine-tasting evenings.
g Санкт-Петербург
St Petersburg р ур 7:f© \\\\\
Naberezhnaya kanala Griboedova 5 Tell 314 4947 Map 6 E2

The cost of a meal here is high considering the standard Russian fare on offer (albeit served in abundant portions), but it
does include a popular “folk” floor show at 9pm every night except Sunday. Live music begins at 8pm, after which
there are Russian dancers and balalaikas. It may not be authentic, but it is extremely lively and loud, and great fun.
SENNAYA PLOSHCHAD
Apsheron Аперон :f˚©, \
Kazanskaya ulitsa 39 Tell 312 7253 Map 6 D2

The meat-oriented cuisine at Apsheron comes from Azerbaijan in Central Asia, and is cooked by an Azeri chef
brought in from Baku. There are plenty of vegetarian dishes on the menu, too, and even Azeri wine. To suit the Azeris
who flock here, each of the three dining rooms is comfortably warm and colourful. No fashionable minimalism here.
Olimpos Олимпос :© \
Ulitsa Dekabristov 22 Tell 571 4076 Map 5 C3

Located just 10 minutes from St Isaac’s Cathedral and 5 minutes from the Mariinskiy Theatre, Olimpos looks like an
ordinary Russian café, but its extensive Greek menu includes un-Russian quantities of fresh vegetables and salads.
Look out for the house specials – Greek seasonal dishes. Service can be a little too relaxed, but the food never fails.
Caravan Караван
р :© \\
Voznesenskiy prospekt 46 Tell 571 2800 Map 6 D4

Caravan serves an unusual combination of food from the southern republics of Georgia, Azerbaijan and Uzbekistan,
and is famous for its Georgian shashlykk (kebabs) and Uzbek cheburekii (folded pastry pockets stuffed with ground
beef and oozing tasty juices). The staff bake their own bread in a clay oven. Diners include more locals than tourists.
Lenin’s Mating Call Зов Ильича 7:f \\
Kazanskaya ulitsa 34 Tell 571 8641 Map 6 D2

This is a great place for those who are fascinated by Russia’s Soviet past, with its hundreds of busts of Lenin large and
small, and newsreels from the Brezhnev era projected onto screens. It is all good fun, served up with a traditional
Russian menu and spiced with a touch of irony. Lenin and Brezhnev look-alikes might drop in of an evening.
Noble Nest Дворянское гнездо :f ˙˚© \\\\\
Ulitsa Dekabristov 21 Tell 312 3205 Map 5 C3

Those who love the idea of Russian empire-style dining should note that this is one of the few places where you can
truly live the illusion. Housed in the garden pavilion of the Yusupov Palace, it sports columns, chandeliers, portraits of
tsars and an outstanding wine list. The menu mixes dishes from the Yusupov kitchens with modern inventions.
FURTHER AFIELD
EAST OF THE FONTANKA Imbir 7:© \
Zagorodnyy prospekt 15 Tell 713 3215 Map 7 A3

Originally an oriental restaurant (Imbir means “ginger”), this eaterie now offers an eclectic mix of noodles, sushi, lighter
Russian meat and fish dishes (try the poached salmon), and simple but good wines. Its unpretentious, café style attracts
a quiet, relatively young crowd, and it is a good place from which to watch the world go by on the busy street outside.
EAST OF THE FONTANKA Lagidze Лагидзе ¤:© \
Ulitsa Belinskovo 3 Tell 579 1104 Map 7 A1

Excellently located a short walk from the centre, on one of the city’s shortest and best restaurant-lined streets,
Lagidze serves Georgian food and wine in a modest but modern interior, at modest prices. Try the lodka (hot cheese-
filled bread with egg) and the satsivii (chicken in walnut sauce), and finish the meal with Georgian brandy.
EAST OF THE FONTANKA Bufet Буфет 7: \\
Pushkinskaya ulitsa 7 Tell 764 7888 Map 7 B2

Close to Nevskiy prospekt, Bufet’s charming interior is made to look like a good, old-fashioned St Petersburg
apartment. With only 20 place settings, framed photographs and mementos on the walls, it almost feels like one.
The cuisine is Russian and plain, the atmosphere is warm and prices are moderate. A special place.
EAST OF THE FONTANKA NoName : \\
Ulitsa Marata 4 Tell 315 8574 Map 7 B2

Just off Nevskiy prospekt, NoName offers a mixture of European and Japanese food (mainly sushi and some excellent
clear soups). It is aimed, despite its designer interior and fusion menu, at anyone of any age who wants to relax in
understated surroundings. There is sometimes live rock in the evening.
EAST OF THE FONTANKA Palermo 7 \\
Naberezhnaya reki Fontanki 50 Tell 764 3764 Map 7 A2

Pictures of Sicilian landscapes hang in the windows, the walls are painted in sand yellow and olive green, even the
chef comes from Sicily. But there is no need to fear the Mafia here: this is simply a good Italian family restaurant,
offering a classic Sicilian menu with the addition of a few Russian favourites – mainly heavy meat dishes.
EAST OF THE FONTANKA Polyglot Полиглот ¤:, \\
Furshtatskaya ulitsa 20 Tell 972 3552 Map 3 B4

Polyglot seeks to combine St Petersburg’s literary reputation with the crowd from the American Consulate nearby.
Hence the children’s games room at weekends, with a nanny who speaks both English and Russian, and the working
bookshop. Try the warm spinach salad, and try to resist one of the famous desserts.
EAST OF THE FONTANKA Povari Повари :, \\
Bolshoy prospekt 38/40, Petrogradskaya Tell 233 7042 Map 1 C2

Look, no pizza! This Italian restaurant specializes in all kinds of freshly made pasta, such as fettuccinii with mushrooms and
truffle sauce. In winter, tables are tucked away inside the building, but in warmer weather the covered terrace on the
square outside sprouts comfortable wicker chairs. This is the perfect place to watch shoppers on bustling Petrogradskaya.
EAST OF THE FONTANKA Rizhskiy Dvorik Рижский дворик ¤: \\
Baskov pereulok 4 Tell 273 1149 Map 3 B5

This small basement café-restaurant is named for Riga, capital of Latvia and a favourite holiday destination during the
Soviet period. Guests receive plenty of Latvian hospitality and Riga balsam (a herbal liqueur drunk separately or as
part of a cocktail, and supposedly good for one’s health). On a cold winter day, try the dranikii (potato pancakes).
EAST OF THE FONTANKA Sherbet Шербет : \\
Ulitsa Vosstaniya 26 Tell 716 0874 Map 7 C1

Uzbekistan meets 21st-century cool at Sherbet. The ambience is very laid back, with elegant, candlelit tables and
sofas scattered with silk cushions. The menu is not entirely Uzbek (though the plovv or pilau is definitely worth
tasting), but combines the best “Oriental” cooking with some Turkish dishes. Lunchtime discount of 20%.
EAST OF THE FONTANKA Shinok Шинок : \\

This restaurant offers food and folk music from the former Slavic Soviet republic of Ukraine. The elegant minimalism of
St Petersburg’s coolest restaurants is forsaken here in favour of good, stout food with five kinds of salo (salted pork
belly), and Ukrainian vodka to wash it down. There is a Ukrainian folk show every evening at 9pm, and lots of jollity.
EAST OF THE FONTANKA Shury Mury Шуры муры :, \\

Shury muryy means “a little of what you fancy”, and the restaurant advertises itself with a picture of a romantic
couple. Ignore the clichés. This is simply one of the cosiest, least pretentious places in central St Petersburg, with a
plain Russian menu and a consistently welcoming atmosphere. A perfect place to dip into out of the cold.
EAST OF THE FONTANKA Staryy Dom Старый дом ¤© \\
Ulitsa Nekrasova 25 Tell 579 8343 Map 7 B1

Caucasian and Russian food is served in this simple basement café-restaurant furnished with pine benches and
tables. Real home cooking is on offer, including meaty kharcho soup and vegetarian cheburekii filled with herbs and
grasses rather than meat, as well as excellent Georgian wine served in faience jugs. Very popular with Georgians.
EAST OF THE FONTANKA Sunduk Сундук

у у f, \\
Furshtatskaya ulitsa 42 Tell 272 3100 Map 3 C4

Technically an art café, Sunduk is too good a restaurant to be hidden in the Nightlife section of this guide. It boasts
an extensive cocktail list, a filling Russian and European menu, and good live jazz (for which there is a $3 surcharge
after 8:30pm). The back room is the quietest. A clown entertains children every Sunday from noon to 5pm.
EAST OF THE FONTANKA Tres Amigos :f \\
Ulitsa Rubinshteyna 25 Tell 572 2685 Map 7 A3

Mexican, Peruvian, Colombian and Ecuadorian cooking are on offer, together with a bizarre mix of decor inspired by
Aztecs and beer halls. Tres Amigos deserves a mention mainly for its excellent children’s room with slide and swings, its
children’s menu, and the professional nanny it employs at weekends to entertain the kids while adults down tequila.
EAST OF THE FONTANKA Xren \\

Guests choose which of three rooms they want to eat in (each has a different look), order stylishly designed food,
and sit and watch the world bustling by through windows overlooking the “Five Corners” (an intersection not far
from Nevskiy prospekt). The menu includes two-colour gazpacho, duck and couscous. DJs perform every weekend.
EAST OF THE FONTANKA Demidoff Демидов :f \\\
Naberezhnyaya reki Fontanki 14 Tell 272 9181 Map 3 A5

There are two rooms in this touristy but adequate restaurant, one for elegant 19th-century dining, one for dining in a
pseudo “Old Russian” interior (with brightly coloured, painted vaults). However, the pan-Russian menus are the same
and include everything from quail’s eggs to pancakes and caviar. There is Gypsy music every evening from 8pm.
EAST OF THE FONTANKA Kolkhida Колхида :f© \\\
Nevskiy prospekt 176 Tell 274 2514 Map 8 E3

This is the place to get a very cheap business-style lunch, and is perfectly located for those visiting the Alexander
Nevsky Monastery. The menu offers a wide range of Georgian dishes, such as tsatsivii (chicken in walnut sauce), and
wines. There is traditional Georgian singing in the evening. The street is a night-time pick-up spot, so book a taxi.
EAST OF THE FONTANKA Matrosskaya Tishina Матросская тишина : \\\
Ulitsa Marata 54/34 Tell 764 4413 Map 7 B4

The advertisement for this restaurant reads “fish fashion”, and so it is. Inside there is a real trawler cut into pieces,
aquariums stuffed with live lobsters, oysters and crayfish; and tiger prawns and sea scallops, and just the right wines
to wash them down. None of the fish or seafood is frozen – everything is delivered fresh and kept cool on ice.
EAST OF THE FONTANKA Probka © \\\

This elegant Italian wine bar has the same management as more expensive Il Grappolo next door. Minimalist decor
complements minimalist Italian cuisine – with fine sauces rather than the heavy, creamy pastas served in some of the
city’s other Italian restaurants – and no pizza. On warm days, huge windows open to embrace the outdoors.
EAST OF THE FONTANKA Troika Тройка

р 7:f \\\\
Zagorodnyy prospekt 27 Tell 713 5343 Map 6 F3

Troika is not just a restaurant, but a remainder from the good old Soviet days of floorshows, with circus acrobatics
(slender girls doing strange things with hoops), folk songs, Russian dancing, glitz and glamour. There is no erotica,
unlike in some more recently opened locations. The menu is unremarkable, but the show is the star.
EAST OF THE FONTANKA X.O. : \\\\
Ulitsa Zhukovskovo 10 Tell 719 6542 Map 7 B1

Amongst the city’s haute cuisine establishments, X.O. has been doing especially well. It received the Best Chef Award in
2005, has a stylish modern interior and offers a mixture of Italian, European and Asian cuisine, with seafood delicacies, an
extensive wine list, and an unusually good selection of cheeses. Watch out for the slippery metal stairs at the entrance.
WEST OF THE CENTRE Russian Fishing Русская рыбалка :©, \\
Yuzhnaya doroga 11, Krestovskiy ostrov Tell 323 9813

This is a stylized fisherman’s hut with a pond in which guests can catch their own fish – trout, sturgeon, beluga sterlet –
and watch it cooked. The concept is masculine, but the restaurant tends to attract families during the day because of the
playground outside and children’s room inside. The place is more adult at night, and can get rowdy in the early hours.
WEST OF THE CENTRE Karl & Friedrich Карл и Фридрих :f, \\\

A taxi is needed to get to and from this restaurant-brewery on Krestovskiy Island near the Gulf of Finland. The venue
is aimed at families and employs a nanny from 7pm to 10pm during the week, and two nannies and a clown from
2pm to 10pm at weekends. There is a strong meat orientation to the menu, and great beer.
WEST OF THE CENTRE Krestovskiy sad Крестовский сад 7:f, \\\

Another eaterie in the Karl & Friedrich brewery complex, Krestovskiy sad serves roast lamb cooked on an open spit in
the grounds in summer – perfect for the White Nights. Sit at a table outside and watch the sun sink slowly over the
Gulf of Finland, or eat at the smaller, seasonal café on the nearby beach.
NORTH OF THE NEVA 7:40 :f \\
Bolshoy Sampsonievskiy prospekt 108 Tell 492 3444

The only Jewish restaurant in town. Its name (sem-sorok
( k in Russian) refers to the well-known Jewish song and dance that
gets faster and faster until participants are whirling, which is just the kind of exuberant spirit this friendly
establishment aims to emulate. Staff serve a wide range of traditional Jewish dishes in a colourful interior.
NORTH OF THE NEVA Le Mon : \\
Kamennoostrovskiy prospekt 64 Tell 974 4085 Map 2 D1

For those taking a walk along Kamennoostrovskiy prospekt to view the Style-Moderne buildings of the Petrograd
Side, Le Mon is a dream – smart, but much less expensive than it looks. The “French” menu actually delivers a sort of
classy European cuisine, including superb carpaccio for hors d’oeuvress and some very elegant desserts.
NORTH OF THE NEVA Pirosmani Пиросмани

р 7:f© \\
Bolshoy prospekt 14, Petrogradskaya Tell 235 4666 Map 1 B3

This colourful Georgian restaurant is set out like a Georgian hill village, with wattle and daub houses, a stained-glass
window and even real ponds (when booking, ask to sit on a raft). Walls are hung with works by Pirosmani, arguably
the best Georgian painter of the 20th century. Try the lobio – beans in spicy sauce – washed down with Old Tbilisi wine.
NORTH OF THE NEVA Staraya Derevnya Старая деревня :f©, \\
Ulitsa Savushkina 72 Tell 431 0000

One of St Petersburg’s first independent restaurants, Staraya Derevnya is still one of the friendliest places in town. A long
way from the centre, it is nevertheless perfect for those driving back into town from the Gulf of Finland. Service is personal,
the interior informal – like an old-fashioned apartment. Russian, Jewish and Gypsy songs are performed in the evening.
NOVGOROD Detinets :f \
Pokrovskaya Tower, Detinets (Novgorod Kremlin) Tell (8162) 774624

Novgorod’s most famous restaurant is located inside one of the 17th-century towers of the Detinets (Kremlin).
Traditional Russian dishes are served, including medovukha (mead) and sbiten (spiced tea). There is a bar in the
basement (a former women’s prison), and in summer food can be served outside. Quite an experience.
NOVGOROD Pri Dvorye При дворе 7:f, \
Lyudogoshchaya ulitsa 3 Tell (8162) 774343

Superbly located, right by the Detinets or Kremlin, Pri Dvorye is a slightly less popular spot than Detinets restaurant
(see above), but a fine second best. From the authentic rural Russian menu, try clear broth with rasstegayy (fish patties)
or heavy meat sausages, washed down with good Russian beer.
PAVLOVSK Podvorie Подворье

р :f©, \\
Filtrovskoe shossee 16, Pavlovsk Tell 4668544

It is worth making a special trip to this re-creation of a 17th-century wooden house, situated by the grounds of
Pavlovsk Palace, a short walk from Pavlovsk railway station. The restaurant is kitsch and great fun, with folk songs at
lunchtime, and a traditional Russian menu with pelmeni, plenty of meaty soups and vodka. In the snow, it is magical.
PUSHKIN Staraya Bashnya Старая

р башня :˚© \
Akademicheskiy prospekt 14 Tell 466 6698

With its huge menu and wine list, this is something of a find in provincial Pushkin: prices are half what they
would be in St Petersburg itself. The restaurant is near the famous district of Fyodorovskiy gorodok, which was built
in 1913 to mark the 300th anniversary of the Romanovs.
REPINO Chaliapin Шаляпин : \\\
Ulitsa Nagornaya 1 Tell 432 0775

In summer the Gulf is rich in cafés offering shashlykk (kebabs), but year round the best place to eat out here is
Chaliapin. Do not be put off by the unattractive concrete exterior, and the location over a supermarket (though
surrounded by trees), because inside it is charming, with a vast fireplace in winter. In summer, there is a roof terrace.
SHUVALOVKA Sobranie Собрание : \\
Sankt-Peterburgskoe shosse 111, between Strelna and Petrodvorets Tell 331 9999
Set in a stylized Russian tower at the heart of the Shuvalovka Russian Village (a sort of Russian Disneyland on the
road to Peterhof), Sobranie is a good place to try traditional Russian rural dishes and listen to folk songs – even for
those who have not been sliding down snowhills and riding in a troika in the Village.
Light Meals and Snacks PUBS AND BARS
Despite their plastic chairs and metal tables, Russian All bars serve a good range of
and ethnic cafés often serve very tasty food – from food. In addition to the
simple sandwiches to hefty meat dishes. Look out for standard English and Irish
the word кфfe (café) and try one. Cautious travellers pubs, where food is unadven-
can experiment in one of the restaurants listed turous and the clientele is
composed mostly of ex-pats,
opposite, which frequently offer moderately priced there are now a number of
meals between noon and 4pm. A number of bars and Russian “pubs”, such as
“art cafés” with live music (see p205) also have Pivnaya 0.5, that offer a range
excellent kitchens. (In the evening these may be filled of excellent local beers. Argus
with people and noise, but at lunchtime they are and Tinkoff make their own
calmer.) During the summer many cafés add tables beer on the premises.
outside – which is great for people-watching. In colder One of the joys of summer
weather, the ground-floor cafés of the Moika or Radisson is to drink beer sitting on one
of the pontoons that appear
SAS hotels, Jili-bili or Il Patio are almost as good. with the warm weather on
the canals and rivers,
RUSSIAN FAST FOOD, PIZZA AND particularly around Nevskiy
PASTA prospekt. Whilst such places
Traditional Russian dishes such do not usually offer food,
as borshch and dranikii (potato The first Russian fast food was they do allow customers to
pancakes) are widely offered. an open sandwich with cheese linger and watch the sunset
Pelmenii (dumplings filled with or salami, or pirozhkii (small on the water.
meat, potatoes or mushrooms) buns) filled with rice, cabbage
and varenikii (dumplings filled or something sweet like apple. SUSHI
with fruit) are in a class of their The best pirozhkii come from
own. Specialist pelmeni Stolle. A slightly cheaper An enduring craze for sushi
establishments are truly “local”, version is available from the bars – which tend to be
with no flashy decor or tourists. Bulochnaya on Bolshaya quite good – means that there
Try the Pelmeni Bar behind Konyushennaya ulitsa. Always are plenty of good alterna-
the Peter and Paul Fortress. avoid fried pirozhkii with meat. tives for quick, healthy
Russian blinyy and blinchiki Never buy them on the street. lunches in St Petersburg.
(flat pancakes) come in both In addition to the well- Menus are easy to understand
sweet and savoury varieties at known fast-food chains, local because they include pictures
the outstandingly cheap options include the 24-hour of each dish. Try Dve Palochki
Russkie Bliny U Natashi. Layma and U Tyoshi Na or Planet Sushi.
Some places listed are quite Blinakh, where customers
plain, notable mainly for their choose by pointing. Teremok EATING OUT ON DAY
location. Priboy is behind the specializes in pancakes. TRIPS
Hermitage (see pp84–93), Est Green Crest salad bar and the
is next to the Mariinskiy Troitskiy Most chain are good More effort is required when
Theatre, Café de Clie is next vegetarian options. Pizza and seeking a place for a modest
to the Peter and Paul Fortress. pasta houses are popular. (Il lunch outside the city.
The Stroganoff Yard is in the Patio caters for children.) Pavlovsk (see pp158–61) and
(heated) courtyard of the Peterhoff (see pp148–51) have
Stroganov Palace (see p112). PASTRIES AND SWEETS reasonable cafés in the
Near St Isaac’s Square (see p79) palaces, although space is
is Idiot, a vegetarian café Russians are sweet-toothed, limited in summer. Peterhof’s
popular with ex-pats. Luna is and in private homes tea tiny Trapeza is always a
cheap, cheerful and crowded. is never offered without favourite. At Tsarskoe Selo
U Kamina is known for its cosy biscuits or cakes. Ice cream – (see pp152–5), there are
fire and generous portions. best bought from one of the several cafés along and
many street sellers – is around Oranzhereynaya
ETHNIC FOOD enjoyed all year round. ulitsa, leading off the park.
Sladkoezhka sells an amazing Gatchina Palace (see p147)
Georgian and Armenian foods range of fresh cream desserts has cafés in the grounds and
are popular in St Petersburg. and pastries, and is probably even Oranienbaum (see p146)
The Kavkaz-Bar restaurant (see the city’s favourite spot for a has a tiny café, too. In
p188) and Magrib have small hit of sugar. Coffee shops, general, however, the best
café sections, and many other such as Albina and the option is to take a picnic to
small cafés offer Caucasian Idealnaya Chashka chain, also Gatchina or Oranienbaum.
dishes. Filling Uzbek food is offer a variety of cheesecakes (Delicious take-away pies can
on offer at Asia, a tiny, and cakes. At Stirka 40° be bought from Stolle.) In
bustling and cheap café in the customers drink tea while Novgorod (see pp162–5), the
heart of the residential and doing their washing (it Golden Ladle serves many
consulate area. doubles as a launderette). kinds of beer and snacks.
É S 193
DIRECTORY
RUSSIAN Russkie Bliny U Teremok (pancakes) PUBS AND BARS
Natashi (pancakes) Tеремок
Café de Clie Pусские блины у Hаташи Nevskiy prospekt 60. Argus
Kronverkskiy prospekt 27. 5-ya Sovetskaya ulitsa 24. Map 7 A2. Tell 314 2701. Apгyc
Map 2 D2. Map 7 C1. Tell 271 5958. Bolshaya Konyushennaya
Tell 232 3606. Troitskiy Most ulitsa 15.
Soiree Tроицкий мост
Map 6 E1.
Chaynaya Khizhina Суаре Kronverkskiy prospekt 35.
Чaйная xижина Tell 717 0154.
Ulitsa Zhukovskovo 28. Map 2 D2. Tell 326 8221.
Bolshaya Konyushennaya Map 7 B1. Tell 272 3512. 6-ya liniya 27, Pivnaya 0.5
ulitsa 19 (entrance from Vasilevskiy ostrov. Пивнaя 0.5
Volynskiy pereulok). The Stroganoff Map 1 A5. Tell 327 4622. 44/2 Zagorodnyy prospekt.
Map 6 E1. Yard
U Tyoshi Na Blinakh Map 6 E4.
Tell 314 9786. Строгановский лвор
(pancakes) Tell 315 1038.
Nevskiy prospekt 17.
Est Map 6 E1. Tell 315 2315. У тёши на блинах Tinkoff
Естъ Ligovskiy prospekt 29.
U Kameni Tинкофф
Ulitsa Glinki 5. Map 7 C2. Tell 275 9782.
У Камина Kazanskaya ulitsa 7.
Map 5 B3.
Malyy prospekt 68, Map 6 E2.
Tell 315 4962. COFFEE, PASTRIES
Petrogradskaya Storona. Tell 718 5566.
Idiot AND SWEETS
Map 1 C1. Tell 235 0458.
Плиoт Albina SUSHI
Naberezhnaya reki ETHNIC FOOD Aльбинa
Moyki 82. Ulitsa Vosstaniya 10.
Dve Palochki
Map 5 C2. Asia Map 7 B1. Две пaлoчки
Tell 315 1675. Aзия Tell 273 7459. Ulitsa Vosstaniya 15.
Ulitsa Ryleeva 23. Map 7 C1.
Jili-bili Denisov-Nikolaev
Map 3 B5. Tell 272 0168. Tell 449 6464.
Жили-были Confectionery
Nevskiy prospekt 52. Magrib Лениeoв и Hикoлaeв Eurasia
Map 6 F1. Maгpиб Naberezhnaya kanala Eврaзия
Tell 314 6230. Nevskiy prospeckt 84. Griboedova 77. Nevskiy prospekt 3.
Lidval Map 7 B2. Tell 275 7620. Map 6 D3. Map 6 D1.
Лидваль Tell 571 9495. Tell 571 8286.
FAST FOOD, PIZZA
Ulitsa Vosstaniya 15. Idealnaya Chashka Planet Sushi
AND PASTA
Map 7 C1. Идeaльная чaшкa Плaнетa Cуши
Tell 579 1251. Bulochnaya Nevskiy prospekt 112. Nevskiy prospekt 94.
Luna Булoчнaя Map 7 B2. Tell 275 7140. Map 7 B2.
Луна Bolshaya Konyushennaya Vladimirskiy prospekt 1. Tell 273 3558.
Bolshaya Konyushennaya ulitsa 15. Map 2 E5. Map 7 A2. Tell 310 3735.
ulitsa 7. Map 2 E5. Nevskiy prospekt 66. Kamennoostrovskiy DAY TRIPS
Tell 312 4260. Map 7 A2. Tell 314 8559. prospekt 2.
Map 2 E2. Tell 233 4953. Bashnya
Pel I Men (pelmeni) Green Crest Бaшня
Пель и мень Гpин Креcт Lavka Smirdina
Sankt-Peterburgskiy
Ulitsa Mokhovaya 45. Vladimirskiy prospekt 7. Лaвкa Cмирлинa
Nevskiy prospekt 22. prospekt 46, Petrodvorets
Map 7 A1. Map 7 A2. Tell 713 1380.
Map 6 E1. (Peterhof).
Tell 327 1350. Il Patio Tell 315 9017. Tell 427 7878.
Pelmeni Nevskiy prospekt 30.
Sladkoezhka Delvig
Пельмени Map 6 E1. Tell 380 9183.
Слaдoeжкa Дельвиг
Ulitsa Vosstaniya 12 (entry Nevskiy prospekt 182.
Marata ulitsa 2. Oranzhereynaya ulitsa 20,
from ulitsa Zhukovskogo). Map 8 E3. Tell 271 3177.
Map 7 B2. Tsarkoe Selo.
Map 7 B1.
Layma Tell 571 1420. Tell 466 2958.
Tell 272 8302.
Лaимa Sadovaya ulitsa 60.
Pelmeni Bar Naberezhnaya kanala Golden Ladle
Map 5 C4.
Пельмени-бap Griboedova 16. Map 6 E1. Зoлoтoй Кoвш
Tell 310 8144.
Kronverkskiy prospekt 53a Tell 315 5545. Malaya morskaya ulitsa 9. Novo-Luchanskaya ulitsa
(entry from ulitsa Markina). Map 6 D1. 14, Novgorod.
Stolle Tell (8162) 73 05 99.
Map 1 C3. Tell 238 0977. Tell 312 9771.
Штoллe
Priboy Ulitsa Dekabristov 19. Stirka 40° Trapeza
Прибoй Map 5 C3. Стирка 40° Tpaпезa
Naberezhnaya reki Tell 714 2571. Kazanskaya ulitsa 26. Kalininskaya ulitsa 9,
Moyki 19. Map 2 E5. Konyushennyy pereulok 1/6. Map 6 D2. Petrodvorets (Peterhof).
Tell 315 0438. Map 2 E5. Tell 312 1862. Tell 314 5371. Tell 427 9393.
SHOPS AND MARKETS
A trip round St Petersburg’s shops so, Russian linen, the city’s celebrated
and markets provides an
insight into local life. Even
today, shopping in the city requires
flexibility and even a sense of
Krupsksaya chocolates, vodka,
caviar, and R
Russian crafts and toys
all make wonderful gifts. Larger
shops are concentrated around
adventure: you can never depend main streets such as Nevskiy and
on finding what you set out to Bolshoy prospekts, and metro
find, but may confidently expect stations, notably Sennaya Plos-
to end up buying something you chad and V Vasilievskiy Ostrov.
never guessed you needed. In Matryoshka doll However, most buildings are
recent years, imported goods have occupied by shops or restaurants at
pushed out many local products. Even ground level. Do venture in.
(see p214). More- BUYING ART AND
over, many stores ANTIQUES
now accept credit
cards. In some Under Russian law, all objects
shops, customers made before 1956, and all
are forced to objects made from valuable
peer at goods materials such as gold, silver,
stacked behind precious stones and fur, are
the counter. If subject to strict export
you would like a controls. Works of art,
closer look, just including contemporary
Ladies’ fashion at one of the numerous up-scale point to what you watercolours, also fall under
boutiques along Nevskiy prospekt want and say this ruling, likewise books
“mozhno” published before 1946.
OPENING HOURS (“may I?”). To pur- Be aware that,
chase something, although there are
Hours vary, but shops usually pay for it at the now green and
open from 10am until at least cash desk and red channels at
7pm, though “fashionable” then return to the airport
outlets may open later. A few, collect the item customs, and not
mainly cheap food shops, close from the counter. all suitcases are
for lunch. On Sundays depart- Shop assistants x-rayed, there are
ment stores remain open, as do will usually realise random checks.
other large shops. During the if you do not speak In practice,
summer, smaller places may Russian, and will customs officials
reduce their hours and close at write down the prices Second-hand may turn a blind eye
weekends. There are 24-hour for you to hand to the bookshop sign to prints and water-
food shops all over town. cashier. Defective colours without
goods can be returned frames, and unless a book is
HOW TO PAY provided they are accom- extremely rare you are likely
panied by a receipt. to be able to export it without
In some shops, prices may be authorization. In all other
expressed in “y.e.” or “condi- BARGAINING ETIQUETTE cases, strict rules are applied.
tional units”. One y.e. is Permission to export both
usually worth about one US If a set price is displayed at books and art objects can be
dollar or one Euro (check at markets, this indicates no obtained from a department
the shop for their exchange bargaining. In all other cases of the Ministry of Culture.
rate), but the customer must you can usually get some This process is relatively
still pay in roubles. Paying reduction if you speedy. The gallery from
in non-Russian currency haggle, especially which or the artist from
is a criminal offence. The since visitors
only place you might (and prosperous- EXPORT PERMISSIONS
be able to pay in looking Russians)
foreign currency is are likely to be Ministry of Culture
at a tourist market. quoted a higher Министерство культуры
There are numerous, price. Haggling
Ministerstvo kultury
reliable exchange in Russia, however,
offices and automatic is a serious matter, Malaya Morskaya Ulitsa 17.
teller machines so do not bother Map 6 D1. Tell 571 5196.
inside metro stations Russian box- unless you genuinely # Mon–Fri 11am–5pm.
and outside banks camera (1920s) intend to buy.
S H O P S A N D M A R K E T S 195
glitzy goods, however, the open-air market, Vernisazh

narrow passages and layout (see p199), outside the
speak of a different age. Church of St Catherine (see
The newer department p48) on Nevskiy prospekt.
stores such as Vladimirskiy The official Souvenir Market
Passazh (see p199) and (see p199) near the Church on
Grand Palace are more like Spilled Blood (see p100), sells
Western European and the best and cheapest selection
American shopping malls, of matryoshka dolls (see p197).
with up-scale boutiques. You are also likely to find
handmade chess sets, watches,
MARKETS AND BAZAARS fur hats, old cameras, t-shirts
and military paraphernalia.
Food can be bought in one of
the 11 farmers’ markets
(rynoks)s dotted around the
city. The most centrally
located is Kuznechnyy (see
p199), just off Nevskiy
Tertia (see p198) has exportable prospekt, which sells flowers,
antiques to suit all budgets fruit, vegetables, delicious
home-made cream cheese
whom the item is purchased and wonderful natural honey
should always assist with which you can sample. Note
the paperwork. that prices at markets tend to
If you have not obviously be higher than at the super-
tried to cheat customs, any markets, but buyers do have
objects not allowed through the option of haggling.
can simply be handed over These days the yard inside
to someone who is remaining Apraksin Dvor (see p111) is Visitors browse the shelves at the
in St Petersburg. If, however, best known for wholesale and Hermitage Museum Shop
there is any hint of foul play, retail sales of liquor, cigarettes
the item will be placed in and clothes, especially Turkish MUSEUM SHOPS
storage at the airport, for leather jackets. Join the crush
which, if you wish to reclaim at the weekend, even if only The best museum shop is
it later, there will be a charge. to people-watch, but keep found inside the Hermitage
Any objects that remain your valuables well hidden – (see pp84–93)) and sells repro-
unclaimed after a year will be pickpockets are active here. duction prints and objects,
confiscated, as will objects Flea markets are perpetually books on the city and its art,
which have obviously been being moved on, though jewellery and silk scarves, both
hidden to avoid detection. some sellers continue to pop inside the museum and online:
Valuable pieces may be
V up at the city’s main markets. www.hermitagemuseum.org
donated to a museum. The true seeker of unusual The Russian Museum
finds amid the trash will set ((see pp104–7) has several
DEPARTMENT STORES off on a Friday or Saturday outlets, though these are not
morning for Udelnaya metro, run by the museum itself.
Known as “univermag” or where a vast unofficial market The best is in the Stroganov
universal shop, Russian sprawls along the railway line. Palace (see p112).
department stores generally Souvenir watercolours and Of the other shops
evolved from the old trading prints of varying quality are attached to museums, the
rows, which were literally sold throughout the year at the best are found in the Peter
rows of kiosks owned by and Paul Fortress
different traders. Present-day (see pp66–7) and
department stores have in the palaces at
altered a great deal and now Pavlovsk, Peterhof
operate as a complex of and Tsarskoe Selo
boutiques and distinct (see pp148–61).
sections. Even though the These tend to sell
goods on sale do not differ souvenirs (rather
much from those that are than reproductions
available in European shops, of exhibits and
every visitor to St Petersburg other related
should explore Gostinyy Dvor objects): amber
(see p108), the oldest and and semi-precious
largest shopping centre in stone jewellery,
the city, and Passazh (see dolls, lacquered
p48), a smaller and more élite Souvenirs sold at the tourist market opposite boxes and books
department store. Despite the the Church on Spilled Blood on the city.
196
What to Buy in St Petersburg

It is easy to find interesting and beautiful
souvenirs in St Petersburg. They range in
price from small, enamelled badges, which
sell for very little, through to hand-painted
Palekh boxes and samovars which can be very
Decorative box
expensive. T Traditional crafts were encouraged
by the state in the old Soviet Union and many
items, such as lacquered boxes and bowls, matryoshka dolls,
wooden toys and chess sets, are still made by craftsmen and
women using age-old methods. Memorabilia from the Soviet
era also make good souvenirs and Russia is definitely the
best place to buy the national specialities, vodka and caviar.
Samovar
Vodka and Caviar Used to boil water to make tea,
An enormous variety of both clear samovars come in all shapes and
and flavoured vodkas (such as lemon sizes (see p183). A permit is needed
and pepper) is available (see p182). to export a pre-1945 samovar.
They make excellent accompaniments
to black and red caviar (ikra), which
are often served with blini (see
p180).
Malachite Amber
egg ring
Semi-precious Stones
Red Malachite, amber, jasper and
Clear caviar a variety of marbles from the
vodka Ural mountains are used to
Flavoured Black caviar make a wide range of items –
vodka Wooden Toy everything from jewellery and
These crudely carved chess sets to inlaid table tops.
wooden toys often
have moving parts.
They are known
as Bogorodskiye
toys and make
charming gifts.
Matryoshka Dolls
These dolls fit one inside the other and
come in a huge variety of styles. The
traditional dolls are the prettiest, but
those painted as Russian, Soviet and
world leaders are also very popular.
Chess Sets
Attractive chess sets made
from all kinds of beautiful
materials, including
malachite, are widely
available. This wooden chess
set is painted in the same style
as the matryoshka dolls.
S H O P S A N D M A R K E T S 197
LACQUERED ARTIFACTS Palekh Box

Painted wooden or papier-mâché The art of miniature painting
artifacts make popular souvenirs on papier-mâché items origin-
and are sold all over the city. The ated in the late 18th century.
Artists in the four villages of
exquisite hand-painted, lacquered
Palekh, Fedoskino, Mstera
Palekh boxes can be very costly, and Kholui still produce these
but the eggs decorated with icons hand-painted marvels. The
and the typical red, black and images are based on Russian
gold bowls are more affordable. fairytales and legends.
Bowl with Spoon

The brightly painted
bowls and spoons,
usually known as
“Khokhloma”, have a
lacquer coating, forming
a surface which is
Painted durable, but not resistant
wooden egg to boiling liquids. Russian hand-painted tray
Strings
Tuners Russian Scarf
These brilliantly coloured
traditional woollen shawls
are good for keeping out
the cold of a Russian
winter. Mass-produced
polyester versions are
also available, mostly
in big department
stores, but these are
not as warm.
Musical Instruments
Russian folk music uses a wide range of musical
instruments. This gusli is similar to the Western
psaltery and is played by plucking the strings
with both hands. Also available are the brightly
painted balalaika and the bayan (accordion).
Soviet Memorabilia
An eclectic array of
memorabilia from the
Soviet era is on sale. Gzhel Vase
Old banknotes, coins, Ceramics with a distinctive blue and white pattern
pocket watches are produced in Gzhel, an area near Moscow.
and Red Army Ranging from figurines to household crockery,
kits, including they are popular with Russians and visitors alike.
belt buckles,
badges and
other items of
uniform, can be
found along-
side watches
with cartoons
of KGB agents Pocket Badge with Red Army
on their faces. watch Soviet symbols leather belt
Where to Shop in St Petersburg what they have. The Union of

Artists has exhibitions by
The main department stores in the city centre stock traditional local artists. The
everything from souvenirs to vodka and furs, all of Pushkinskaya 10 artists’ colony
a high quality. For some local products, however, stages shows at weekends,
it is best to visit specialist shops, most of which are some with works for sale.
conveniently located in or near the centre. In a city BOOKS, FILM AND MUSIC
which prides itself on its intellectuals, books and
art are appropriately St Petersburg’s other main St Petersburgers perceive their
exports. Soviet memorabilia has also become very city as an intellectual focal
popular in recent years. point, with a great literary
and artistic past. The centre
FOOD AND DRINK Porcelain Factory is much has been taken over by book
prized. The factory makes chains such as Bookvoed, but
Good vodka is to be had everything from gaily painted there are some smaller new
everywhere. A Avoid cheaper rustic cups to reproduction and second-hand bookshops.
brands in “amusing” packaging, revolutionary-era porcelain. The best are still Dom Knigi
they are invariably of poor Apraksin Dvor is a real local (see p47) and the Writers’
quality. Diplomat and Gzhelka market – a must for those who Bookshop. If you need a
are good, standard brands. want to see what locals buy. holiday novel in English, try
Caviar should be bought Anglia, Dom Knigi or
only from a food shop or SOVIET MEMORABILIA Bookvoed. More unusual,
department store. Gostinyy second-hand English books –
Dvor department store, the Artifacts from the Soviet era usually donated by tourists –
Supermarket in Passazh are now produced specifically can sometimes be found in
department store and Yeliseev’s for the tourist market. Be Akademkniga and Na
are the most central, reliable careful when buying on the Liteynom. Severnaya Lira sells
places for both vodka and street: many apparently sheet music – everything from
caviar. The many Liviz outlets genuine articles are modern classical to folk songs – as well
also stock a wide range of reproductions. Original pieces as instruments, CDs and books
alcoholic drinks. All kinds of can be picked up at the on music. Art books can be
food shopping can be done at Souvenir Market, though bought in Dom knigi, or
Kuznechnyy Market, stacked Sekunda and Sobiratel antiques second-hand in Staraya Kniga.
high with Russian specialities. shops are more reliable. Or Very inexpensive DVDs of
V
St Petersburg’s Krupskaya try a small second-hand shop English-language films and
Fabrika chocolate factory has such as the Commission Shop CDs can be purchased in
long been famous across the near Moscow Station. Soviet shops such as Kailas.
Soviet Union. The Chocolate badges are easily transpor-
Museum sells novelties such table. DIY models of Soviet FURS AND FASHION
as famous buildings crafted military hardware are available
in chocolate. All kinds of from the top floor of D.V.K. Clothes and other accessories
sweets are on sale at the are mainly imported. Elegant
much-loved Sever. ANTIQUES AND ART boutiques occupy part of
Gostinyy Dvor and run along
SOUVENIRS AND CRAFTS Although older antiques and streets such as naberezhnaya
many works of art need to be kanala Griboedova and ulitsa
In summer, when traders set cleared with customs, some Zhukovskovo. Some local
up stalls by tourist spots, the pieces, such as small water- designers have their own
city is flooded with matryoshka colours, may be exempt. boutiques; notably Tatyana
dolls, music boxes shaped like Many shops are extortionately Parfyonova, whose garments
a church, painted lacquerware expensive, but Tertia is an have been purchased by the
and chess sets. In winter, it can exception, with readily expor- Russian Museum.
be quiet on the retail front. The table items to suit all pockets, Paloma and the Hat Shop
Souvenir Markett and Vernisazh and the Antique Centre is a offer hats in everything from
market, however, operate all veritable treasure trove. Only straw to fur. Furs are sold in
year, and there are good gifts buy an expensive object if you Lena, Paloma and on the top
to be found in Gostinyy Dvor are sure the relevant paper- floor of Gostinyy Dvor. Russian
R
and Passazh department stores. work and export applications linen is a also a good buy.
Shops in or near museums can be obtained (see p194). Elegant shift dresses and the
also stock souvenirs – notably Antikvariat should be able to traditional kosovorotka (peasant
those in the Stroganov Palace provide the paperwork for shirt) are found in Slavyanskiy
(see p112) and Tsarskoe Selo purchases made in the centre. Stil. Locally made jewellery of
(see pp152–5). The shop inside Paintings all require export semi-precious stones from the
the Hermitage (see pp84–5) licences, but as galleries can Urals and amber from the
sells higher range goods and provide these themselves it is Baltic is available in jewellers
excellent art books. Local worth dropping in to Anna such as Samotsvety; for rarer
porcelain from the Imperial Nova, S.P.A.S. or Borey to see works, visit Ananov.
S A N D M A R K E T S 199
DIRECTORY
DEPARTMENT Sever Ars Magna Kailas
STORES Ceвep Kamennoostrovskiy Кaйлac
Nevskiy prospekt 104. prospekt 26/28, No. 45. Pushkinskaya ulitsa 10.
Gostinyy Dvor Map 7 B2. Tell 273 7436. Map 2 D1. Tell 232 4535. Map 7 B2. Tell 764 2668.
Гостиный двор
Nevskiy prospekt 35. Yeliseev’s Borey Na Liteynom
Map 6 F2. Елисеевский гастроном Борей Hа Литейном
Nevskiy prospekt 56. Liteynyy prospekt 58. (Books and antiques)
Passazh Map 6 F1. Tell 312 1865. Map 7 A1. Tell 273 3693. Liteynyy prospekt 61
Пассаж Map 7 A2. Tell 275 3874.
Nevskiy prospekt 48. SOUVENIRS AND Pushkinskaya 10
Map 6 F1. CRAFTS Пушкинcкaя 10 Severnaya Lira
(Galleries Kino-Fot-703, Северная лира
Vladimirskiy Imperial Porcelain New Academy of Fine Nevskiy prospekt 26.
Passazh Импеpaтoрский Arts, Nonconformists’ Map 6 E1. Tell 312 0796.
Владимирский пассаж фapфopoвый зaвoд Museum)
Vladimirskiy prospekt 19. Staraya Kniga
151 Obukhovskoy Ligovskiy prospekt 53.
Map 7 A3. Старая книга
oborony prospekt. Map 7 B3.
Nevskiy prospekt 3
Map . 8 F4. Tell 560 8544.
MARKETS Rapsodiya Map 6 D1. Tell 312 1620.
Vladimirskiy prospekt 7.
Pапсодия
Map 7 A2. Tell 713 1513. Writers’ Bookshop
Andreevskiy Bolshaya Konyushennaya
Nevskiy prospekt 160. Книжнaя
Market ulitsa 13 (in courtyard).
Map 8 D3. Tell 717 4838. Nevskiy prospekt 66.
Андреевский рынок Map 2 E5. Tell 314 4801.
Map 7 A2. Tell 314 4858.
Bolshoy prospekt 18,
SOVIET Russkaya Starina
Vasilevskiy Island. FURS AND
MEMORABILIA Pусскaя Cтарина
Map 5 A1. FASHION
Nevskiy prospekt 20.
Apraksin Dvor Commission Shop Map 6 E1. Tell 320 6622.
Кoмиccиoнный Ananov
Апраксин двор
1-ya Sovietskaya ulitsa 12 S.P.A.S. Анaнов
Sadovaya ulitsa.
(in courtyard). C. П.A.C. Nevskiy prospekt 31.
Map 6 E2. naberezhnaya reki
Map 7 C2. Tell 717 4932. Map 6 E1. Tell 314 1952.
Kuznechnyy Market Moyki 93.
D.V.K. (Dom Map 5 C2. Tell 571 4260.
Hat Shop
Кузнечный рынок
Voyennoy Knigi) Шляпнвый мaгaзин
Kuznechnyy pereulok 3. Tertia
Д.B. К. (Дом ulitsa Zhukovskovo 11.
Map 7 A3. Tepция
военной книги) Map 7 B1.
Souvenir Market Nevskiy prospekt 20. Italyanskaya ulitsa 5.
Map 6 E1. Tell 710 5568.
Lena
Рынок сувениров Map 6 E1. Tell 312 4936.
Лена
Naberezhnaya kanala Union of Artists
Sekunda Nevskiy prospekt 50.
Griboedova, by Church on Coюз xyдoжникoв
Секунда Map 6 F1. Tell 571 7169.
Spilled Blood. Map 2 E5. (Sovet memorabilia) Bolshaya Morskaya
ulitsa 38. Map 6 D2.
Paloma
Vernisazh Liteynyy prospekt 61
Пaлoмa
Вернисаж (in the yard).
BOOKS, FILM AND Bolshaya Konyushennaya
Nevskiy prospekt 32–4. Map 7 A2. Tell 275 7524.
MUSIC ulitsa 27.
Map 6 E1. Sobiratel Map 6 E1. Tell 314 7262.
Coвбиpaтeль Akademkniga Malaya Morskaya ulitsa 8.
FOOD AND DRINK Sadovaya ulitsa 135. Aкaдeмкнигa Map 6 D1. Tell 315 7912.
Chocolate Museum Map 6 F1. Tell 973 3727. Liteynyy prospekt 57.
Samotsvety
Myзeй шoкoлaдa Map 7 A1. Tell 272 3665.
ANTIQUES AND Самоцветы
Nevskiy prospekt 17. Anglia 7-ya liniya 40, Vasilevskiy Is.
ART
Map 6 E1. Tell 315 1348. Aнглия Map 1 A5.
Krupskaya Fabrika Anna Nova Naberezhnaya reki Tell 327 1956.
Кондитаeрская фабрика ulitsa Zhukovskovo 28. Fontanki 40.
Slavyanskiy Stil
Map 7 B1. Tell 275 9762. Map 7 A2. Tell 579 8284.
им. Н.К. Крупской Cлaвянcкий cтикль
Ulitsa Vosstaniya 15. Antikvariat Bookvoed Pushkinskaya ulitsa 3.
Map 7 C1. Aнтиквариат Бyквоед Map 7 B2.
Tell 346 5532. Malaya Morskaya ulitsa 21. Ligovskiy prospekt 10. Tell 764 5455.
Map 6 D1. Tell 571 2643. Map 7 C2. Tell 346 5327.
Liviz Tatyana Parfyonova
ЛИBИЗ Antique Centre Dom Knigi Татьяна Парфенова
ulitsa Zhukovskovo 27. Цeнтp aнтиквapнoй Дом книги модный дом
Map 7 B1. Tell 282 1969. тopгoвли Nevskiy prospekt 62. Nevskiy prospekt 51.
Liteynyy prospekt 12. 3-ya Sovetskaya ulitsa 36/5. Map 7 A2. Map 7 B2.
Map 3 A4. Tell 273 6755. Map 7 C2. Tell 327 8271. Tell 314 5888. Tell 713 3669.
ENTERTAINMENT IN ST PETERSBURG
S t Petersburg has an impressive in music, theatre and cinema. The St
and varied choice of entertain-
ment. Its ballet, opera, classical
music and theatre are among the
best in the world. In addition
Petersburg Philharmonia and the
Mariinskiy (Kirov) ballet and opera
(see p119) deserve their impressive
international reputations, though
to the high culture, a thriving this does mean that they are
and vibrant nightlife is made often away on tour.
up of numerous rock and jazz St Petersburg’s entertainment
clubs, bars, art cafés, discos, changes with the seasons. In
nightclubs and casinos. winter there are concerts and
Increasingly, international artists Folk dancer other traditional indoor events.
are adding St Petersburg to their Summer starts with the White
tours, and mainstream now exists Nights, followed by a mass of festivals
harmoniously alongside underground and outdoor events.
BUYING TICKETS
Most people buy their tickets

with cash and in person.
Theatre ticket offices and
kiosks can be found all over
town, offering tickets up to a
month in advance. They
display a full programme (in
Russian) of all theatre and
classical music performances
for the next 20 days and are
generally open daily from
10am–1pm and 4–7pm.
The magnificent, gilded interior of the Yusupov Theatre Offices within theatres usually
work from 11am–3pm and
ENTERTAINMENT Tickets can be booked on 4–7pm and sell tickets for all
INFORMATION the Russian-language website advertised concerts. Non-
www.bileter.ru. Russian speakers should not
St Petersburg can be quite A reasonable English- be nervous: most ticket
a difficult city to keep up language ticket site is found cashiers will be helpful and
with, as both official and at www.sbp.kassir.ru. patient while you point to the
unofficial events are Most traditional theatres and date you want. Tickets can
organized at short concert halls close also be booked by your hotel
notice. For example, down for July, concierge. The Mariinskiy
theatre programmes August and part of Theatre has an excellent
are not announced September because English-language website on
more than a couple of their troupes go on tour. which tickets can be bought
months in advance, so it’s Whilst this may deprive (www.mariinsky.ru). Similar
important to keep alert in visitors of local perform- services for other theatres are
order not to miss the fun. ers, some theatres bring offered on www.spb.kassir.ru.
The best (albeit in guest troupes from A few venues, notably the
incomplete) listings Moscow and abroad. Mariinskiy Theatre (see p119),
in English can be Other venues such have price bands, with some
found in the Friday as the Hermitage tickets set aside at a cheaper
edition of The St (see p84) and rate and available only to
Petersburg Times, a Aleksandrinskiyy (see Russian citizens. Non-Russians
twice-weekly news- Mariinskiy p203) theatres launch trying to use these may be
paper, and in the poster pillar summer programmes refused entry or asked to pay
monthly magazine that are aimed at the difference in price.
Pulse (see p217), both free in tourists. It is worth noting Visitors, however, may obtain
hotels, foreign bars and mu-
m that, although they are fun, tickets for sold-out perfor-
seums. A much broader range their opera and ballet shows mances at the Mariinskiy
of information is provided in are sometimes not of the Theatre if they go on the day.
Russian in two bi-weekly list- highest quality. As in most cities, touts sell
ings magazines: Afisha (www. Matinees start at noon and tickets for major events, but
spb.afisha.com) and Time Out most evening performances at beware of possible fakes and
(www.spb.timeout.ru). 7pm. Check tickets carefully. inflated prices.
E N T E R T A I N M E N T I N S T P E T E R S B U R G 201
DIRECTORY
USEFUL ADDRESSES
Central Theatre Ticket
Office
Nevskiy pr 42. Map 6 F1.
Tell 380 8050.
www.bileter.ru (Russian only)
Ticket Kiosks
Hermitage foyer. Map 2 D5.
Pl Ostrovskovo. Map 6 F2.
Gostinyy dvor (corner of ul
Spectacular performance of the famous Sleeping Beauty
y ballet Lomonosova). Map 6 F2.
Gostinyy Dvor metro. Map 6 F1.
LATE-NIGHT TRANSPORT Shuvalovka, a reproduction
Russian village. Located INTERNET GUIDE
The metro closes its doors 30 km (19 miles) out of town, www.bileter.ru
soon after midnight and buses Shuvalovka is open throughout www.mariinsky.ru
run until 12:15 (infrequently the year and includes wooden www.spb.afisha.ru
after 11pm). There is no all- houses in 17th-century Russian www.spb.kassir.ru
night public transport, so style, a skating rink, ice slides, www.spb.timeout.ru
expect to take a taxi late at a working smithy and a
night. Avoid any taxis which museum of peasant life. Take CHILDREN’S
wait outside foreign hotels any minibus to Peterhof from ENTERTAINMENT
and bars as they charge Avtovo metro and ask the
extortionate prices (see p227). driver to stop at Shuvalovka. Circus
Цирк
CHILDREN’S FESTIVALS Tsirk
ENTERTAINMENT Nab reki Fontanki 3. Map 7 A1.
The several White Nights Tell 313 4260.
Many theatres put on plays festivals (see p51) draw some
in Russian especially for of the big names of pop and Dolphinarium
children. See the children’s classical music, and ticket Делфнapнй
section of Afisha or Time prices go up accordingly – as Delfinariy
Out. Unfortnately, few give do accommodation rates – Konstantinovskiy pr 19.
English-language perform- during this time. But there are Tell 235 46
631.
ances except at New Year. plenty of other worthwhile
No language problems occur seasonal festivals. The White Fairytale Puppet Theatre
at the Circus, however, or at Days (taking in Russian Kyкoльный тeapт cкaзки
the Dolphinarium on Christmas on 7 January, when Kukolnyy teatr skazki
Krestovskiy Island. the city is shrouded in snow) Moskovskiy pr 121. Map 6 D3.
Some of the best shows and and Shrovetide festivals place Tell 388 0031.
concerts for children are held the accent on Russian culture.
Large Puppet Theatre
at Zazerkalye, while the Numerous jazz festivals
puppet theatres usually have (look out for SKIF in April), Большой театр кукол
several productions based on the long-standing Early Music Bolshoy teatr kukol
well-known fairytales. Festival (Sep and Oct), along Ul Nekrasova 10. Map 7 B1.
For the “real” Russian winter with feature and documentary Tell 273 6672.
experience, try a troika
a (sleigh) cinema festivals ensure that Marionette Puppet
ride. These are offered at the city entertainment scene Theatre
Pavlosk (see pp158–61) and at thrives all year round. Театр марионеток
Teatr marionetok
THE RUSSIAN CIRCUS Nevskiy pr 52. Map 6 F1.
Circuses first appeared in Russia in the Tell 310 5879.
early 19th century, but it was not until Shuvalovka
1876–7 that Russia’s first permanent
Шyвaлoвкa
circus building was erected for Gaetano
Sankt-Peterburgskoe shosse
Ciniselli’s Italian circus. St Petersburg’s
111.
circus is still based at this historic site,
Tell 331 9999.
which was modernized in 1963, and
www.russian-village.ru/english.
continues to practise the traditional
htm
training, skills and animal acts which
have made the Russian circus famous Zazerkalye
throughout the world. Зазеркалье
Acrobatic performers, St Petersburg’s circus Ul Rubinshteyna 13. Map 7 A2.
The Arts CHURCH MUSIC
For a city renowned worldwide for its rich tradition The music of an Orthodox
of ballet and classical music, it is not surprising that choir is one of the most
St Petersburg has a wide range of cultural events on evocative sounds in Russia.
offer. An evening at the Mariinskiy Theatre is a high- The best are heard on Saturday
evenings and Sunday mornings
light of any visit, but, unfortunately, the venue is at the Holy Trinity Cathedral in
currently being renovated. However, it is well worth Alexander Nevsky Monastery
venturing into the many other theatres, music halls (see p130)) and at the Cathedral
and churches to absorb the city’s cultural diversity. of the Transfiguration (see
Classical music is vastly popular and local orchestras p127). Services in the
are much in demand the world over. In addition, Cathedral of our Lady of Kazan
there are the evocative sounds of church choirs, the (see p111) are also of a high
lively ambience of folk cabarets, and numerous standard. More formal religious
music is performed in the
festivals ((see pp50–53) held to encourage young Smolnyy Cathedral (see p128).
musicians, composers, film-makers and dancers.
FOLK MUSIC
MARIINSKIY THEATRE OPERA
The tourist industry encour-
The Mariinskiy Theatre (see Tchaikovsky’s opera Eugene ages visits to concerts of
p119), the epitome of the Onegin and Mussorgsky’s Russian folk music and danc-
best in Russian ballet and Boris Godunovv remain ing, some of which are very
opera, is being renovated. stalwarts in any repertory. good. The best are found at
Not only is a new stage being Operas are performed Beloselskiy-Belozerskiy and
built next door to the old (usually in their original Nikolaevskiy Palace. Many
building, but the main language) at the Mussorgsky restaurants, such as St
building itself is closing for Opera and Ballet Theatre and Petersburg (see p188), have
repairs for several months. At at the Mariinskiy. Look out a folk cabaret, though these
the time of writing the closing for local stars Anna Netrebko can be kitsch and loud.
and re-opening dates have yet and Olga Borodina, or the Podvorye restaurantt (see p191
1)
to be to determined, but the tenor Vladimir Galuzin. Less in Pavlovsk, however, has an
orchestra, and opera and ballet common works, including excellent, small ensemble.
troupes will continue to 18th-century chamber operas,
perform on other Petersburg are performed by St Peters- STREET MUSIC
stages. Check the website, and burg Opera on their own
keep an eye on the listings. stage, and at the Hermitage Democracy had the unex-
and tiny Yusupov Theatres. pected effect of allowing many
BALLET Look out for sparkling informal activities such as
productions at the children’s busking, which brought some
Some of the best dancers in theatre Zazerkalye (see p201). highly talented musicians onto
the world come from the the streets. Today, as skilled
Mariinskiy (see p119). Tickets CLASSICAL MUSIC players stake their pitches, the
for performances by leading sound of music fills the city’s
ballerinas Ulyana Lopatkina The city’s classical repertoire streets. The two underpasses
and Diana Vishneva are hard is huge. Tchaikovsky, beneath Nevskiy prospekt by
to come by. One of the high- Shostakovich, Mussorgsky and Gostinyy Dvor are busy
lights of the year is the Rimsky-Korsakov lived in busking spots, while other
Christmas performance of St Petersburg and their music metro stations are popular
The NNutcracker, danced by is performed here frequently. sites for old ladies singing
children from the Vaganova
V The Great Hall of the Russian ballads of love.
Ballet School (see p110). Philharmonia (see p98), the
Ballet at the Mussorgsky Small Hall of the Philharmonia THEATRE
Opera and Ballet Theatre and (see p48)) and the Academic
the Conservatory Opera and Capella (see p112)) are historic All performances are in
Ballet Theatre (see p120) are venues for classical concerts. Russian. For non-Russian
of more varied quality but still The former is the home of the speakers, productions of
provide good entertainment. St Petersburg Philharmonic classic plays such as The
In summer, many troupes Orchestra. Other historic Cherry Orchard d may be
perform for tourists in various locations used for concerts interesting to experience, but
theatres, but with inconsistent include the Hermitage (see p84)4, more obscure works can
levels of skill. Boris Eifmann’s and the palaces of Tsarskoe
T prove difficult.
modern ballet company and Selo (see p150)) and Sheremetev Since the days of the Soviet
Valery Mikhaylovskiy’s all-male
V (see p129). Events are adver- Union, the leading light in the
Muzhskoy Ballet are popular tised specially. By contrast, drama world has been the
with locals, and play at venues Dom Kochnevoy y is an intimate Bolshoy Drama Theatre
like the October Concert Hall. space for chamber music. (BDT). The Alexandriinskiy
E N T E R T A I N M E N T I N S T P E T E R S B U R G 203
Theatre (see p110) is the CINEMA A large number of film

oldest in Russia; one of the festivals are held in the city
newest is the Molodyozhnyy Most cinemas now show every year, and these
(Youth) Theatre. In recent Hollywood blockbusters, but frequently include films in
years, Lev Dodin’s direction the majority of foreign films their original language.
of the Malyy Drama Theatre are dubbed into Russian The St Petersburg Times,
(MDT) has brought it inter- rather than subtitled. Mirage Afisha and Time Outt give full
national fame as the “Theatre holds showings of undubbed coverage of all festivals,
of Europe”, even though all films, as do a few Russian including the main Festival of
performances are in Russian. cinemas such as Dom Kino. Festivals (see p51).
DIRECTORY
TICKETS St Petersburg Opera Cathedral of the Bolshoy Drama
Tickets are sold in city Сaнкт-Петepбypг oпepa Transfiguration Theatre (BDT)
kiosks and at individual Sankt-Petersburg opera Спасо-Преображенский Большой
theatres unless stated Galernaya ul 33. собор драматический театр
Map 5 B2. Tell 312 3982. Spaso-Preobrazhenskiy Bolshoy dramaticheskiy
otherwise.
sobor teatr
Yusupov Theatre
BALLET AND Preobrazhenskaya pl 1. Nab reki Fontanki 65.
Юсуповский театр
Map 3 B5. Map 6 F2.
OPERA Yusupovskiy teatr
 10am & 6pm daily. Tell 310 9242.
Yusupov Palace, nab reki
Conservatory Opera Holy Trinity
Moyki 94. Map 5 B3. Malyy Drama
and Ballet Theatre Tell 314 9883, 314 8893. Cathedral
Tеатр oпepы и бaлетa
Theatre (MDT)
Свято-Тройцкий собор
МЛT – Teaтp Eвpoлы
Koнcepвaтopии CLASSICAL MUSIC Svyato-Troitskiy sobor
MDT – Teatr Evropy
Teatr opery baleta Alexander Nevsky
Academic Capella Ul Rubinshteyna 18.
Konservatorii Monastery, pl Aleksandra-
Академическая Капелла Map 7 A2.
Teatralnaya pl 3. Nevskovo.
Akademicheskaya Kapella Tell 713 2078.
Map 5 C3. Tell 312 2519. Map 8 E4.
Nab reki Moyki 20.  10am & 6pm daily. Molodyozhnyy
Hermitage Theatre Map 2 E5.
Эрмитажный театр Smolnyy Cathedral Theatre
Tell 314 1058, 314 1034. Молодёжный театр нa
Ermitazhnyy teatr Смольный собор
Dom Kochnevoy Smolnyy sobor фoнтaнкe
Dvortsovaya nab 34.
Лoм Кoчневoй Ploshchad Rastrelli 3. Molodyozhnyy teatr na
Map 2 E5. Tell 571 5059.
Nab reki Fontanki 41. Map 4 F4. Fontanke
(Tickets from city kiosks and
Map 6 F2. Tell 577 1421. Nab reki Fontanki 114.
hotels only.)
Tell 310 2987. Map 6 D4.
Mariinskiy Theatre FOLK MUSIC Tell 316 6564.
Мариинский театр
Great Hall of the
Philharmonia Beloselskiy- CINEMA
Mariinskiy teatr
Большой зал Belozerskiy Palace
Teatralnaya pl 1.
филармонии Дворец Белосельских- Aurora Cinema
Map 5 B3.
Bolshoy zal Filarmonii Белозерских Аврора
Tell 714 1211, 326 4141.
Mikhaylovskaya ul 2. Dvorets Beloselskikh- Nevskiy pr 60.
¢ intermittently for repair.
Map 6 F1. Belozerskikh Map 7 A2.
www.mariinsky.ru
Tell 710 4257. Nevskiy pr 41. Tell 315 5254.
Mussorgsky Opera Small Hall of the Map 7 A2.
and Ballet Theatre Crystal Palace
Philharmonia Tell 315 5236.
Кристаль–Палас
Театр оперы и балета Малый зал филармонии Nikolaevskiy Palace Kristal-Palace
имени Мусоргского Malyy zal Filarmonii Николаевский дворец Nevskiy pr 72.
Teatr opery i baleta imeni Nevskiy pr 30. Nikolaevskiy dvorets Map 7 A2.
Musorgskovo Map 6 F1. Pl Truda 4. Tell 272 2382.
Pl Iskusstv 1. Tell 571 8333, 312 4582. Map 5 B2.
Map 6 E1. Tell 312 5500. Dom Kino
Tell 595 4284, 571 9025. CHURCH MUSIC Дом Кино
¢ late Jul–Aug. THEATRE Ul Karavannaya 12.
www.mussorgsky.narod.ru Cathedral of Our Map 7 A1.
Lady of Kazan Alexandriinskiy Tell 314 0638.
October Concert Hall Собор Казанский Theatre
Большой концертный Богоматери Александриинский Mirage
эал Октябрьский Sobor Kazanskoy театр Mиpaк
Bolshoy kontsertnyy zal Bogomateri Aleksandriinskiy teatr Bolshoy pr 35,
Oktyabrskiy Kazanskaya ploshchad 2. Ploshchad Ostrovskovo 2. Petrogradskaya.
Ligovskiy pr 6. Map 6 E1. Map 6 F2. Map 1 C2.
Map 7 C1. Tell 275 1273.  9am & 7:30pm daily. Tell 710 4103. Tell 238 0563.
Live Music and Nightlife Club has Latin evenings, but

also plays house and pop,
St Petersburg was at the heart of the underground Soviet and boasts a pool and chill-
rock scene and many of the best R Russian sounds originate out room. Despite its location
here. The nightclub scene offers mostly techno music and in the high-rise suburbs of the
mainstream pop, in vast complexes with strobe lights, and city, Prosvet has a good
concert and D DJ programme.
attracts the well-paid young and nouveaux riches. Some Tribunal has a policy of
smaller clubs featuring an eclectic mix describe them- playing only mainstream
selves as “art” clubs or cafés, and host live music one music, and thus manges to
night and avant-gardee fashion shows or films the next. attract a huge crowd during
Some large clubs and casinos accept credit cards. Where summer months, when young
hours are not given, check programmes before heading tourists stream in.
out. A
Avoid places that admit foreigners or females free. Smaller, more diverse clubs,
such as the underground
Griboedov, are still very much
ART AND CAFE CLUBS JAZZ VENUES of the alternative culture
trend, playing a variety of the
Fish Fabrique is probably the The father of Petersburg jazz latest hits from Europe, and
oldest art café in town, is David Goloshchokin, who hosting fashion shows and
having survived the ups and set up the Jazz Philharmonic other cultural events. Tunnel –
downs of recent Russian Hall. As the name suggests, which tends to come and go,
history, but it is facing strong the jazz played in the hall is but is always good when it is
competition from newcomers mainly very traditional, and, is active – specializes in
such as the intellectual sadly, dancing or talking are techno and electronic dance
Platforma. Che offers a mix prohibited. In recent years, music. Jakata has an excellent
of classical and jazz concerts, JFC has led the way for record, but perhaps some of
with poetry readings and improvisation and innovative the strictest “face control” in
kids’ mornings on Sundays. jazz. Guests here are often town. Be cool, or don’t
GEZ-21 even manages to fit musicians with an interna- bother to come near.
philosophy readings in tional reputation. Jimi
amongst rock concerts. Hendrix Blues Club comes a GAY CLUBS
close second to JFC by virtue
ROCK VENUES of its mixture of blues and For some reason, few gay
rock, and its good food. clubs in St Petersburg manage
Under the Soviet regime, Restaurants such as Sunduk to last more than four or
Leningrad rock was rebellious (see p190) often bring in five years. Greshniki is,
without being overtly good live performers. Street however, an exception,
political. Though there is now Life is a classy restaurant-club remaining popular while
less emphasis on poetical with room for 150 people. other venues come and go;
lyrics that express a spirit of and Cabaret seems to have
freedom from control and BARS WITH MUSIC made a go of it, too. Gay
repression, Russian rock still culture in the city is strongly
owes much to its rebellious Live music is played in many tied into the art world, and
past, while also managing to bars around town, but on the events are advertised at
incorporate the latest in whole a lot of the music in Saturday exhibitions in the
Western music trends. such places is awful. It is best New Academy of Fine Arts
Red Club is the most adven- to stick with the established, at Pushkinskaya ulitsa 10.
turous club, but Pyatnitsa, more reliable clubs. The only dedicated lesbian
with its rowdy punk bands, is Liverpool, for example, club is TriEl.
good for a high. Rockabilly hosts live bands, not all of
gave birth to Money Honey whom play Beatles cover CASINOS
and to the City Club upstairs versions. In addition,
(for older rockers), which in Manhattan sometimes has In an attempt to increase
turn led to an explosion of good jazz acts. The only security for clients, and to get
rockabilly groups in the city. problem with Tsinik is that it away from a past reputation
Big-name, massed audience is often difficult to hear the for sleaziness, all respectable
rock and pop concerts are music above the noise made casinos now form part of
usually held in one of the big by the clientele. large complexes incorporating
concert halls such as the excellent restaurants and bars.
Oktyabrskiy Bolshoy NIGHTCLUBS AND DISCOS Stand-alone casinos and
Kontsertnyy Zal, or the most those further from the centre
prestigious of them all, the Big entertainment complexes of the city tend to be high
Ledovyy Dvorets. When Paul such as Metro (with three risk for punters. Others offer
McCartney came to town, floors) cater mainly to the highly risqué floorshows
however, he performed on a young and upwardly mobile, and attract a less polished
specially erected stage in playing house, techno and clientele. Such establishments
Palace Square. Russian dance music. Havana
R are not listed.
I N M E N T I N S T P E T E R S B U R G 205
DIRECTORY
ART AND CAFE Red Club Tsinik GAY CLUBS
CLUBS Poltavskaya ul 7. Циник
Map 7 C3. Per Antonenko 4. Cabaret (A.K.A.
Che Tell 717 1366. Map 6 D2.
Matrosskaya
Poltavskaya ul 3. www.clubred.ru
Tishina)
Tell 312 9526.
Map 8 D3. Kaбaре
www.cinic.spb.ru
Tell 277 7600.
Yubileynyy Dvorets Nab Obvodnogo kanala
Sporta 181.
# 24 hours. NIGHTCLUBS AND
Двoрец cпopтa Tell 259 9512.
www.cafeclubche.ru DISCOS
фбилейный
Greshniki
Fish Fabrique Pr Dobrolyubova 18. Griboedov Грешники
Ligovskiy pr 53. Map 1 B3. Грибоедов Nab kanala Griboedova 29.
Map 7 B3. Tell 119 5615. Voronezhskaya ul 2A. Map 6 E2.
Tell 764 4857. Map 7 B4. Tell 570 4291.
# 3pm–6am daily. JAZZ VENUES Tell 764 4355. www.greshniki.ru
www.fishfabrique.spb.ru Jazz Philharmonic # 6pm–6am Wed–Mon.
TriEl
Hall www.griboedovclub.ru
GEZ-21 5-ya Sovetskaya ul 45.
ГЕЗ-21 филармоник лжазoвoй Havana Club Map 8 D2.
Ligovskiy pr 53. мyзыкн Moskovskiy pr 21. Tell 710 2016.
Zagorodnyy prospekt 27. Map 6 D5. www.triel.spb.ru
Map 7 B3.
# 8–11pm Tue–Sun. Tell 259 1155.
Tell 764 5263.
# 5pm–6am daily. CASINOS
www.tac.spb.ru JFC
Shpalernaya ulitsa 33. www.havanaclub.ru
Platforma Astoria
Map 3 C4. Jakata Кaзинo-кдyб астория
Плaтфopмa
Tell 272 9850. Ul Bakunina 5. Malaya Morskaya ul 22.
Ul Nekrasova 40.
# 7–11pm daily. Map 8 D2. Map 6 D1.
Map 7 C1. www.jfc.sp.ru Tell 346 7462. Tell 313 5020.
Tell 314 1104. # 24 hours daily.
# 24 hours daily. Jimi Hendrix Blues Metro
www.platformaclub.ru Club Метро Golden Garden
Дкиммн Xeндpикc Ligovskiy pr 174. Vladimirskiy pr 9.
ROCK VENUES бдюз-кдyб Tell 766 0204. Map 7 A2.
Liteynyy prospekt 33. Tell 572 2244.
# 10pm–6am daily.
Arctica Map 3 A5. # 24 hours daily.
www.metroclub.ru
Apктикa Tell 579 8813. Olympia
Ul Beringa 38. # 11am–1am daily. Port
Кaзинo-клуб Олимпия
Tell 715 4838. Concerts 8:30pm. Порт
Liteynyy pr 14.
Per Antonenko 2 (in yard).
Street Life Map 7 A1.
Ledovyy Dvorets Map 6 D2.
2-ya Krasnoarmeyskaya Tell 275 5060.
Педoвый дврец Tell 314 2609.
Ul 6. # 24 hours daily.
Pr Pyatiletok 1. # 3pm–6am daily.
Tell 716 6620. Map 6 D5. Premier
Tell 575 0545. Prosvet Премьер
Money Honey / www.street-life.spb.ru Пpocвет Nevskiy prospekt 47.
City Club Ul Bryantseva 11. Map 7 A2. Tell 703 5370.
Apraksin dvor block 13, BARS WITH MUSIC Tell 594 5000. # 24 hours daily.
Sadovaya ul 28–30.
Datscha Revolution
Map 6 E2. Ul Sadovaya 28/30.
Дaчa
Tell 310 0549. Map 6 E2.
Dumskaya ul 9.
Oktyabrskiy Map 6 E2. Tell 717 5915, 571 2391.
Bolshoy # 6pm–6am daily. # 1pm–6am daily.
Kontsertnyy Zal Liverpool Tribunal
БКЗ Oктябpьcкни Ливерпуль Pl Dekabristov 1.
Ligovskiy prospekt 6. Ul Mayakovskovo 16. Map 5 C1.
Map 7 C1. Map 7 B1. Tell 311 1690.
Tell 275 1300. Tell 279 2054. # noon–6am daily.
Pyatnitsa Manhattan Tunnel

Пятницa Nab reki Fontanki 90. Toннель
Moskovskiy pr 10–12. Map 6 E3. Corner of Zverinskaya ul
Map 6 D3. Tell 713 1945. and Lyubanskiy per.
Tell 310 2317. # noon–5am daily. Map 1 C3.
www.fridayclub.spb.ru www.manhattanclub.ru Tell 233 4015.
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION 208217

GETTING TO ST PETERSBURG 218220
GETTING AROUND ST PETERSBURG 221229
208 S U R V I VA L G U I D E
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
T he street signs and maps of as foreign exchange offices, are often
St Petersburg are not as
difficult to negotiate as it
may first appear when con-
fronted with daunting Cyrillic
concentrated in hotels and other
areas frequented by foreigners.
Once out on the street, things
will seem unfamiliar, but with
letters. Not only do hotels, restau- patience and determination
rants and all service sectors everything is possible, from
attempt to compensate by being Logo off the h Neva making international telephone
helpful to foreigners, but in Travel Company p y calls and exchanging money to
recent times the city has started putting finding emergency medical treatment.
up English signs pointing out major Telecommunications are rapidly gain-
sights and shops. Conventional tourist ing ground and, as quality improves,
offices do not exist in the city and infor- prices come closer to, and occasionally
mation points, along with services such outstrip, Western equivalents.
Novgorod (see pp146–65). OPENING HOURS

Both Cosmos and the Neva
Travel Company offer several Most sights open standard
excellent tours. City-run excur- hours, 10 or 10:30am to 6pm,
sions, which gather tourists on with no break for lunch, and
Palace Square (see p83) and close one day a week. They
by the Portik Rusca on also close one day each
Nevskiy prospekt (see p48), month for cleaning; this date
tend to be in Russian, as do varies, so phone to check. Last
ordinary river cruises (see p226)
6. tickets are sold about one
Grand Hotel Europe concierge On summer weekends there hour before closing. Parks are
are helicopter tours operating usually open from 8am to 8pm,
TOURIST INFORMATION on a turn-up basis from the later during White Nights.
Peter and Paul Fortress (see
Hotels are the main source of pp66–7). Groups of 20 can
tourist information. In the book through Baltic Airlines.
bigger hotels and mini-hotels
the concierge will provide ADMISSION CHARGES
travel and booking services Sign for open (otkryto)
and general assistance. Lesser Many museums and theatres,
hotels have a Service Bureau notably the Hermitage (see
offering similar services, pp84–93), the Russian
but advice can be useum (see pp104–
indifferent. Cosmos, 107) and the Mariinskiy
Neva Travel Company (see p119) charge Sign for closed (zakryto)
and the MIR Travel foreigners more than
Company y run reliable, Russians, although VISITING CHURCHES
tourist information prices are still well
services as well as below European and Attending an Orthodox
booking accommo- American norms. service is a fascinating
dation and enter- Sign advertising the Students and school- experience. Since services
tainment. Also try MIR Travel Company children are entitled tend to run for several hours,
www.petersburgcity.com to discounts. Credit cards are it is generally fine simply to
which is a useful English- only accepted at some sights. drop in. It is polite to make a
language website. The ticket office or kassa is donation and certain dress
English-language news- often far from the entrance, codes must be observed: no
papers (see p217) give up-to- so look for the K KACCA A sign. shorts; men should remove
the-minute useful information. hats; ladies should
cover their shoulders
EXCURSIONS and chest and prefer-
ably wear a hat or
Hotels can book guided headscarf. Women in
group tours and day trips in trousers are accepted
several languages. In addition in town churches, but
to city tours and canal cruises, all monasteries will
there are day trips to the Tour helicopter picking up tourists by the strictly enforce the no
suburban palaces and Peter and Paul Fortress trousers rule. The most
An imposing Rostral Column, with the elegant Cathedral of SS Peter and Paul beyond
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 209
important services are at the airport and the train

on Saturday evening, station may ask for exorbitant
Sunday morning and sums. Do not lose your nerve,
on church holidays. and simply pay what you feel
Most major faiths are is right; a few dollars are
represented in the city. usually quite sufficient.
Churches tend to be
open all day from ADDRESSES
early morning till late.
Church service times Russian addresses are given
are published in in reverse order: index/zip
Friday’s St Petersburg code, city, street name, house
Timess (see p217). Friends greeting with a handshake number, apartment number
and finally name of person.
LANGUAGE Smoking is prohibited in cine- After 1917, when the city
mas, museums, theatres and was renamed Leningrad,
Cyrillic, the alphabet used in on public transport. (Special many streets and sights were
the Russian language, is areas are usually allocated for renamed to avoid imperial
named after the 9th-century smoking.) Drinking beer is connotations or in order to
monks Cyril and Methodius prohibited in the street. commemorate new
who invented it. The Russians take great Soviet heroes. Since
apparent similarity between pleasure in smoking the city resumed its
Cyrillic and roman letters can and drinking and original name after a
be misleading. Some letters frequent toasts are referendum in 1991,
are common to both alpha- required to justify the most streets in the
bets, others look similar but filling and draining of centre have officially
represent totally different glasses. At a private reverted to their pre-
sounds. V Various systems of home, always toast House number and 1917 names. The
transliteration are in usage, the hostess (za Cyrillic street name area surrounding
but they do not differ enough khozyayku) or the the city, however,
to cause serious confusion. host (za khozyayina). is still the Leningrad Region.
Most people who come into Greetings amongst friends Many people happily use
contact with tourists speak involve a handshake both the original and Soviet
some English and passers-by (between men) or a kiss, or names; no offence is caused
on the street will do their best simply saying – “privet”
“ . (Hi). when one is used in
if asked directions. Know- preference to another.
ledge of a few Russian words PAYING AND TIPPING Index/ City Street
(see pp260–4) is appreciated. zip code name
Roubles are the sole valid
ETIQUETTE currency in Russia (see
p215) . Some large shops and
Despite an ever increasing hotels give prices in US
Westernization of manners and dollars or “y.e.” (units), but all
language, the use is still cash payments must be made 193015
3 Санкт
анкт ∏етербypr
yлица Boccтания
strictly in force of the formal in roubles only. Credit cards
д. 34,
3 кв. 522
34
you (vy)y and the informal (ty).y are accepted in some
Мнлане
н ∏рекрасной
∏ ой
й
On public transport, it is restaurants and most hotels,
accepted that young men and larger shops.
should relinquish their seats Tipping is a matter of House Apartment Name of
to children or the elderly. choice, but baggage handlers number number recipient
BRIDGE OPENING TIMES

From early April until mid-November, when navi-
gation is possible on the Neva river, all its
bridges but the new V Vantoviy Most are raised
between approximately 2am and 5am. This
timetable is a guide, but variations do occur.
Dvortsovyy most: 1:35–2:55am & 3:15–4:50am.
Troitskiy most: 1:50–4:50am.
Most Leytenanta Shmidta: 1:40–4:55am.
Liteynyy most: 1:40–4:55am.
Birzhevoy most: 2:10–4:50am.
Tuchkov most: 2:10–3:05am & 3:35–4:55am.
Bolsheokhtinskiy most: 2:00–5:00am.
Dvortsovyy most (leading to Vasilevskiy Island), Most Aleksandra Nevskovo: 1:30–5:05am.
raised to allow ships access along the Neva Volodarskiy most: 2:10–3:45am & 4:15–5:45am.
REGISTRATION
All foreigners must register

with OVIR within three days
of arrival, and obtain a stamp
of registration on their regis-
tration card. Hotels do this for
their guests (as do Cosmos
and MIR), but those staying in
private accommodation must
register at the branch of OVIR
where their invitation was
issued. For an extended visa
an application must be made at
the same branch. Visitors who
forget to register can be fined
and prevented from leaving
Russia until all the necessary
paperwork is in order.
Information office, offering free advice and literature to visitors
EMBASSIES AND
VISAS CUSTOMS AND CONSULATES
IMMIGRATION
Visas are required for all Anyone intending to reside
visitors to Russia. Package Passports and visas are in Russia for longer than
tour companies will organize checked thoroughly at im- three months is advised to
visas for you, but independent migration. All visitors must fill register with their consulate
travellers need to arrange their out an immigration card, or embassy. If visitors are
own. This can be a complex, which is currently only hospitalized, robbed, impris-
time-consuming process. available in Russian. Part of oned or otherwise rendered
Document requirements the completed card is retained helpless, consular officials
change regularly and it is by travellers for presentation will help make arrangements,
essential to check these in on departure. Essentially there find an interpreter, or at least
advance. You will need to are no limitations on the offer advice. They can re-
show proof of either pre- amount of money people are issue passports and in some
booked accommodation or an allowed to bring into Russia; emergency cases provide
invitation (visa support) from however, it is wise to take money to get visitors home.
a tour company, business or care over the amount of Great Britain, USA, Canada
private individual in Russia. currency you exchange and Australia have consulates
Cosmos and the Neva Travel during your visit because in St Petersburg. V Visitors from
Company can fax express Russian money cannot be New Zealand or Ireland, how-
invitations directly. Private exported. Any items of ever, would have to contact
invitations cannot be faxed considerable value, such as their embassies in Moscow.
and the process of issuing diamond jewellery and com-
them takes at least one month puters, should be noted on a DISABLED TRAVELLERS
through OVIR (Visa Registra- customs form on entry. All
tion Dept). The easiest option such valuables must be re- St Petersburg has almost no
is to pay your travel agency exported, or import duty will facilities for the disabled.
to process the visa for you. The be charged. You should be Transport is inaccessible,
alternative is to go along in aware that on arrival and entrances have steps and
person to the Russian
R Embassy also ondeparture, all items narrow doors and there are
where visas are issued. of luggage may be put rarely public lifts. It takes real
The cost of a tourist visa through X-ray machines. determination for disabled
is around £30 for British Departure et around.
nationals, and around $100 for are particul
US citizens. A visa usually when it com TRAVELLERS
takes ten days, but for an dealing with
extra fee can be arranged in a works of ar ational
single day. antiques (se card entitles
Inside R
Russia, visa extensions p194), but er to discounts
can only be granted by the should be n eums, and on
organization which issued the problem at d air travel if it
initial invitation. If you over- with modes oked through
stay, expect to be stopped at quantities o dbad Travel at
the airport and turned back ordinary, e St Petersburg
until you have either obtained everyday nternational
the necessary extension visa consumer Sign for the St Petersburg Youth Hostel
or paid a considerable fine. goods. International Youth Hostel (see p170).
TRAVELLING PUBLIC TOILETS TIME DIFFERENCE

WITH CHILDREN
The situation is St Petersburg follows Moscow
Russians adore improving, but time, which is three hours
children, and some public toilets ahead of Greenwich Mean
travellers in the Men’s toilet sign are quite basic, and Time (GMT), and eight hours
company of under- a few cafés do not ahead of Eastern Standard
tens are likely to have any toilet Time. In line with the rest of
attract a good deal facilities at all. In Europe, Russia puts its clocks
of attention and such cases, go to forward one hour at the end
many compliments. the nearest hotel or, of March and back one hour
Russian babushki if lacking an alter- at the end of October.
(grannies) also think Women’s toilet sign native, use the pay
nothing of telling toilets in depart- CONVERSION TABLE
parents of their failings. ment stores, for example. The
The city has many play parks person who takes the money Imperial to Metric
and during school holidays hands out toilet paper rations. 1 inch = 2.54 centimetres
temporary playgrounds are 1 foot = 30 centimetres
sometimes set up around town. PHOTOGRAPHY 1 mile = 1.6 kilometres
Museums and public trans- 1 ounce = 28 grams
port are free for under-fives. Photographic restrictions have 1 pound = 454 grams
Schoolchildren pay the full more or less disappeared, 1 pint = 0.6 litres
price on transport but pay a except in the metro. In 1 UK gallon = 4.6 litres
reduced price at museums. museums expect to purchase
a ticket for the right to Metric to Imperial
photograph or video. Tripods 1 centimetre = 0.4 inches
and flashes are prohibited. 1 metre = 3 feet, 3 inches
1 kilometre = 0.6 miles
ELECTRICAL APPLIANCES 1 gram = 0.04 ounces
1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds
The electrical current is 1 litre = 1.8 UK pints
220 V. Two-pin plugs are
required, but some of the old
Soviet two-pin sockets do not
take modern European plugs
which have slightly thicker
pins. American appliances
require a 220:110 current
Children playing on temporary adaptor. Adaptors are widely
bouncy castle in Palace Square available in St Petersburg.
DIRECTORY
TOURIST VISA FORMALITIES EMBASSIES AND US
INFORMATION AND IN UK AND US CONSULATES Furshtatskaya ul.15.
GUIDED TOURS Panorama Travel Ltd
Map 3 B4. Tell 331 2600.
Australia Fax
x 531 2852.
156 Fifth Ave, Suite 1019,
Baltic Airlines Moscow, Podkolokolny
New York, NY 10010. DISABLED TRAVEL
Baltiyskie avialinii pereulok 10/A2.
T l (212) 741 0033.
Tel
Nevskiy pr 7/9. Map 6 D1. T l (495) 956 6070.
Tel RADAR
Tell 104 1676. Progressive Tours
www.australianembassy.ru Unit 12, City Forum, 250
www.balticairlines.ru 12 Porchester Place,
City Road, London EC1V
London W2 2BS. Canada
Cosmos 8AF. Tell (020) 7250 3222.
Tell (020) 7262 1676. Malodetskoselskiy pr 32.
Vasilevskiy Island, 2-ya Soc. for Advance-
Map 6 E5. Tell 325 8448.
Liniya 35. Map 1 A5. VISA FORMALITIES ment of Travel for
T l 327 7256.
Tel IN RUSSIA Ireland the Handicapped
www.guide.spb.ru Moscow, Grokholskiy per 5. 347 Fifth Ave, Suite 610,
OVIR
Tell (095) 742 0907. New York, NY 10016.
MIR Travel Company Овир Tell (212) 447 7284.
Nevskiy pr 11. Map 6 D1. (Tsentralnyy district) New Zealand
Tell 325 7122. Foreign department, Moscow, Povorskaya ul 44. STUDENT TRAVEL
www.mirtc.ru Pereulok Krylova 5.
Tell (095) 956 3579.
Map 6 F2. Tell 315 7936. St Petersburg Int.
Neva Travel Company # 10am–6pm Mon–Fri. UK Youth Hostel
Ul Prof Popova 28. (Central) Ul Kirochnaya 4. Pl Proletarskoy Diktatury 5. 3-ya Sovetskaya ul 28.
T l 234 0082.
Tel Map 3 B5. Tell 278 3486. Map 4 E4. Tell 320 3239. Map 7 C2. Tell 329 8018.
www.nevatravel.ru www.visatorussia.com www.britain.spb.ru www.ryh.ru
Personal Security and Health might use violence if they

meet with resistance. As in
Despite lurid media reports worldwide about the any country, it is advisable to
activities of the mafia, St Petersburg is still a relatively hand over belongings that are
safe city. Petty crime should be the only concern for demanded with menace.
tourists, and even this can generally be avoided if the The supposed mafia, an
organization that is largely
usual precautions are taken. Make copies of your overrated by the media,
passport and visa, note traveller’s cheque and credit has no contact with tourists,
card numbers and, for language reasons, keep a card who are generally much
with your Russian address on it. less wealthy than Russian
Medical insurance is essential, as local healthcare businessmen these days.
compares poorly with Western standards, and English- Women on their own are
speaking services or medical evacuation via Finland are unlikely to encounter sexual
very expensive. Many medicines are readily available, harrassment, though they
should ignore kerbcrawlers
but it is best to bring specific medicines needed. and avoid taking a cab alone
at night. Of course, there is
If you have property no such thing as a completely
stolen, report it to the safe place, so always be alert
local police station for and make sure that you take
insurance purposes. They responsibility for your own
are unlikely to have an safety. The main threats on
interpreter, so ask your the streets come from local
hotel for assistance. drivers, who see all pede-
strians as a nuisance, and
PERSONAL SAFETY from manhole covers, which
tend to rock or even collapse
The greatest danger faced under your feet. This can be
by foreigners is that posed hilarious to watch on a movie
by pickpockets and petty screen, but is not so funny if
thieves because there is a it happens to
dange
Traffic policeman checking papers
PROTECTING YOUR New-look police fleet car

PROPERTY
Every visitor to Russia is

seriously advised to take out
travel insurance. Once in St
Petersburg, simple rules
should be observed, such as
not displaying large sums of
money; carrying cash in a
concealed money belt; and
keeping passports, tickets and
all valuables in the hotel safe
whenever possible. Security in
Western-run hotels is very high, Free, state-run ambulance service
but in all hotels it is advisable
to place valuables in the safe.
Traveller’s cheques (see p214)
may have an insurance policy
but are expensive to use and
are easily laundered in Russia.
Avoid the “gypsies” who
A
occasionally group on Nevskiy
prospekt, apparently begging.
If they do approach, do not
stop for them and keep a firm
hold of your possessions. Fire engine
POLICE MEDICAL TREATMENT MOSQUITOES
Several kinds of If you fall ill, seek advice Mosquitoes (komari) are
police operate on at your hotel, which should rife between June and late
St Petersburg’s have its own doctor. Several September. Repellents are
streets. Their companies, notably the available locally but to avoid
uniforms International Clinic and missing any sleep it is best to
change Euromed, specialize in come well equipped. Burning
according to dealing with foreigners. They oils or plugs which heat
the weather, cover everything from dental chemical tablets are recom-
with the very care, X-rays and pre-natal mended for use at night time.
neccessary care to medical evacuation.
addition of fur Their charges are fairly high, DIRECTORY
hats and big but they are used to dealing
overcoats in with foreign insurance poli- EMERGENCY SERVICES
the winter. cies. They all have English- Fire (pozhar)
The street speaking Russian doctors, and Tell 01.
officers or can deal competently with Police (militsiya)
militia minor emergencies.
Tell 02.
(militsya) For those in need of imme-
wear dark diate attention, the casualty Ambulance (skoraya pomoshch)
blue-grey department of the Trauma Tell 03.
combat- Clinic of the Central District is
Militsya policeman style just off Nevskiy prospekt. MEDICAL SERVICES
uniforms English is not spoken here, but
and many carry guns. Their basic care involving stitches or British-American Family
uniform is very similar to that injections can be administered. Practice
worn by the riot police or If you are taken to a local Grafskiy per 7. Map 7 A2.
OMON, the only obvious hospital and require further Tell 327 6030. # 24 hours.
difference being in the badges. treatment, it is best to contact www.british-americanclinic.com
Separate from both these either your consulate or one
are the traffic police, whose of the above medical centres. Clinic Complex
uniforms carry the logo ДПС They can either have you Ao Poliklinicheskiy compleks
(DPS) on the chest and moved or they can oversee Moskovskiy pr 22. Map 6 D5.
shoulder. They have the your treatment in the hospital. Tell 316 6272. # 24 hours.
authority to stop any vehicle A good dentist can be
to check documents. fiendishly expensive in Dental Palace
Both the militia and traffic St Petersburg. The medical Millionnaya ul 10. Map 2 E5.
police supplement their low clinics listed opposite are T l 314 1459 or 325 7500.
Tel
income by fining people for good and are covered by Euromed
minor infringements of the insurance paolicies. Others Suvorovskiy pr 60. Map 4 E4.
law, notably for crossing such as the Dental Palace are
Tell 327 0301. # 24 hours.
Nevskiy prospekt between also good, but costs will not
www.euromed.ru
signals. It is best to pay the be reimbursed.
moderate “fine” imposed – International Clinic
about 100 roubles – but HEALTH PRECAUTIONS Ul Dostoevskovo 19/21.
object if more is demanded. Map 7 A3.
Neither visitors nor residents Tell 336 3333. # 24 hours.
PHARMACIES should drink tap water, which
www.icspb.com
contains heavy metals and
The best pharmacies (apteka), giardia, a parasite causing Trauma Clinic of the
are located along Nevskiy stomach problems. To be safe Central District
prospekt. These sell many drink bottled water only. If Travmpunkt pri poliklinike n. 35
imported medicines, some you do pick up giardia, it can Malaya Konyushennaya ul 2.
with Russian instructions, be treated with metronidazole. Map 6 E1.
others in their original Russian food, on the other Tell 571 4396. # 24 hours.
language. Strong medications hand, is unlikely to do much
can be bought over the harm. AAvoid the meat pies PHARMACIES
counter, so prescriptions are sold on the streets.
not necessary. Every assistant On the rise are syphilis, HIV Nevskiy pr 83.
is a trained pharmacist and and other sexually transmitted Tell 277 6012.
can advise alternative drugs. diseases, so all due caution 24-Hour Pharmacy
If you have specific should be exercised. Nevskiy pr 22.
requirements,
Tell 314 5401 or 314 0859.
particularly insulin,
bring sufficient Zagorodnyy pr 21.
supplies for Tell 315 6112 / 9636 or 713 3541
your stay. Sign for pharmacy or apteka
Banking and Local Currency DIRECTORY

St Petersburg is moving into the credit card age, and BANKS
major European debit and credit cards can now be
used in hotels, as well as in some restaurants and Alfabank
Адьфабанк
shops. In all other places, however, cash remains the
Nab kanala Griboedova 6/2.
norm, and roubles are the only legal currency. The Map 6 E1.
city is well provided with exchange points and cash Tell 329 8064.
dispensers where visitors can turn their currency # 10am–8:30pm Mon–Sat,
(US dollars and euros are still the most popular) into 11am–8:30pm Sun.
roubles. It is wise to do a little personal research or www.alfabank.ru
to visit a few exchange points before exchanging
American Express
money, as commission rates offered do vary. Malaya Morskaya ul 23.
Map 6 D1.
CHANGING MONEY Tell 326 4500.
# 9am–5pm Mon–Fri. F
Roubles cannot be obtained
Citibank
outside Russia, but there are
Nevskiy pr 45/2.
numerous exchange offices g y g
Map 7 B2.
throughout St Petersburg, office (obmen valyuty)
including at the airport. Tell 336 7575.
Some exchange offices BANKS AND EXCHANGE # 10am–8pm Mon–Fri,
are open for 24 hours a day. OFFICES 10am–6pm Sat–Sun.
A passport has to be shown Credit Lyonnaise
when changing money. Any A few of the foreign banks Nevskiy pr 12.
visible defect on foreign bank in St Petersburg offer over- Map 6 D1.
notes, especially vertical tears the-counter services. The Tell 449 1100.
or ink or water stains, makes most reliable Russian bank
# 10am–5pm Mon–Fri.
them extremely difficult to is Sberbank.
exchange. Travellers should Exchange offices are Dresdner Bank
make sure that all the bank plentiful in St Petersburg. Malaya Morskaya 23.
notes they bring into Russia They are often branches of Map 6 D1.
are in good condition, and banks, offering both cash Tell 578 5151 or 718 5151.
that any US dollars were currency exchange, and cash # 9.30am–1:30pm, 3pm–4:30
issued after 1990. advances on credit or debit Mon–Fri.
Because bank rates are so cards. Larger branches also
good in St Petersburg, visitors cash travellers’ cheques. Raiffeisen Bank
should never be tempted to Exchange offices often work Volynskiy per 3A (entrance from
change their money on the long hours. Sberbank nab Kanala Griboedova).
streets, however appealing the exchange rates are not Map 5 A4.
rates on offer from individuals particularly high, but there Tell 331 9199.
appear to be. The unpleasant are branches conveniently # 10am–7pm Mon–Fri.
truth is that street-changers located all over the city.
will try to cheat anyone A fast and safe, but expen- Nab reki Moyki 36.
willing to take the risk. sive, way of transferring Map 6 E1.
cash to Russia is by Western Tell 334 4343 or 334 2700.
Union, available at the Sberbank
American Express office. Сбербанк
Dumskaya ulitsa 3.
CREDIT CARDS Map 6 F2.
Tell 329 8760.
It is possible to obtain both
# 10am–2pm, 3pm–8pm
roubles and US dollars with a
Mon–Sat;
S 11am–5pm Sun.
credit card through the larger
banks and from the automatic www.nwsbrf.ru
cash dispensers that are
springing up all over town.
The local commission is widely recognized. Cash
between 2 and 5 per cent, dispensers at Alfabank and in
plus credit card charges. (This the Hermitage offer more cash
can work out as cheap or per transaction than others.
cheaper than bringing cash to Less commission is charged for
change.) The most accepted cash in roubles.
cards are VISA, MasterCard Lost or stolen credit cards
and Eurocard. Diners Club should be reported immediate-
Automatic cash dispenser and American Express are less ly to the credit card company.
TRAVELLERS’ CHEQUES services in a few large hotels, of roubles are currently

and are acceptable only in US available in banknotes, which
Banks charge at least 3 per dollars and euros. You will all bear images of well-known
cent to cash travellers’ cheques. need to present your passport Russian cities, the lower
However, only large banks, whenever exchanging or pay- denominations in coins. The
such as Alfabank and Sber- ing with travellers’ cheques. kopek, of which there are 100
bank, offer this service. The in a rouble, is issued in coins.
cheapest alternative is Ameri- LOCAL CURRENCY Take note that bank notes
can Express cheques, with a 2 and coins issued before 1997
per cent commission if cashed The Russian currency is the (that is, before the rouble was
at the American Express office. rouble (or ruble), written revalued owing to its stronger
Travellers’ cheques can only be рубль or abbreviated to р or value and lower inflation) are
used as payment for goods or руб. The higher denominations not legal tender.
Banknotes
There are 6 denominations of notes, with
values of 10, 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and
5,000 roubles. They have the same design
as their pre-revaluation equivalents.
When changing money check that the
notes correspond to those shown here.
10 roubles
50 roubles
100 roubles
500 roubles
Coins
The revaluation of the
1,000 roubles
Russian rouble in 1998
led to the revival of the
long-redundant but much-
loved kopek. Traditionally,
the rouble had always
consisted of 100 kopeks.
As well as coins for 1, 2
and 5 roubles, there are
now coins for 1, 5, 10
and 50 kopeks. Any coins 1 rouble 2 roubles 5 roubles
which were issued before
1997, prior to revaluation,
are essentially valueless
and you are perfectly
within your rights to
refuse to accept them if
they are given to you in
your change. 1 kopek 5 kopeks 10 kopeks 50 kopeks
Communications REACHING THE

Telecommunications is one of the RIGHT NUMBER
biggest growth areas in northwest • To phone Russia from
R
Russia. A once-antiquated phone system abroad, dial 007
followed by the local
has rapidly been brought up to date, area code and
with satellite and digital lines, and direct individual number.
dialling worldwide. The same period • To phone St Petersburg,
has seen an explosion of magazines, dial 812 followed by the
newspapers and TV V channels. Unfortu- individual number.
nately, the everyday postal service is • To phone Moscow,
not improving at the same rate, but dial 495 followed by the
International St Petersburg offers many inexpensive individual number.
telephone sign • St Petersburg directory
and efficient alternatives. enquiries, dial 09.
• There is no international
TELEPHONE SERVICES instructions in Russian only. directory enquiries.
Local calls made from • Inter-city call booking,
The local system, Petersburg private phones are free of dial 07.
Telephone Network (PTS or, charge, although this may • International call
in italic Cyrillics, “cnm”)
” is change in the near future. booking, dial 315 0012.
reliable and relatively cheap. International calls are much • To phone the UK, dial 8
PTS phone boxes are green cheaper with a pre-paid card (tone) 1044 followed by
and located on the streets such as the Zebra card; these the number, omitting
and in some metro stations. are available from kiosks and first 0 from area code.
Calls abroad can be made brances of Sberbank and also • To phone Canada or
directly from a card-operated serve as internet pay-as-you- the US, dial 8 (tone) 101
PTS phone. PTS phonecards go cards. followed by the number.
are available from kiosks, Emergency services can be • To phone the Irish
post offices and branches of reached by dialling two-digit Republic, dial 8 (tone)
Sberbank (see p214). Inter-city numbers free of charge: for 10353 followed by the
and international calls are the fire service dial 01, for the number.
cheaper between 10pm and police dial 02 and for the • To phone Australia,
8am and at weekends. Non- ambulance service dial 03. dial 8 (tone) 1061 fol-
card PTS phones have been To find out if a mobile lowed by the number.
almost totally phased out. They phone will work on Russian • To phone New
can be used for local calls networks, check with your Zealand, dial 8 (tone)
only. To use a PTS coin phone, local service provider before 1064 followed by the
check that you have a tone travelling. GSM subscribers number.
before dialling. Drop the 1, 2 should not have any trouble • To phone South Africa,
or 5 rouble coins into the slot using their mobile phones, dial 8 (tone) 1027 fol-
at the top of the phonebox but visitors should be aware lowed by the number.
and then dial the number. that “roaming” in Russia is
Most phoneboxes have very expensive.
USING A PTS CARD-OPERATED PHONE

POSTAL SERVICES
2 Wait until the
display tells you
to insert your card.
3 Insert your card in the
slot, where it should
remain for the duration
The state-run, international
of the call. postal system is generally
4 When
your card
slow and unreliable. Efficient
1 When
using
a PTS card
has been
cleared, dial
and cheap services are run by
Westpost and Post Inter- r
phone, begin the number. national who offer ordinary,
by lifting the PTS phones express, courier and poste
handset. require you restante services. American
to press the
star button Express (see p214) also oper-
when there ates a poste restante service for
is an answer. cardmembers. The Europe and
5 When
you have
finished your
Corinthia Nevskij Palace
call, hang up, hotels (see p176) run cheap
and only re- and remarkably quick postal
move your services, taking three days
card when in- to the UK via Finland, which
structed to by
the display.
costs about $2 per letter.
A PTS Ordinary post offices, such
phonecard as the Main Post Office
Russian National Library, NEWSPAPERS AND

and inside the Hermitage MAGAZINES
museum (see p84).
There are three English-
COURIER SERVICES language newspapers and
magazines available in the city,
St Petersburg is well supplied which are distributed free to all
with courier services. DHL hotels, major restaurants and
and Fedex take three days to most fast-food chains. The St
Westpost on Nevskiy prospekt Europe and four to Petersburg Timess appears twice
Australasia and the US. weekly with international and
(see p122) and those in hotels, A cheaper service is sporting news and coverage of
sell normal and commem- provided by local companies local events. The Friday edition
orative Russian stamps, post- Westpost and Post Inter- provides detailed listings and
cards, envelopes and local national. Westpost also offers reviews. The monthly Pulsee is
phonecards. R Russian postboxes door-to-door next-day leisure oriented, and its listings
are marked Почта (Pochta) delivery to Moscow. Anything section is worth perusal. Neva
and are most plentiful in the other than papers must go Newss has a pull-out map of
city centre. Tourists should use through customs, which can the city and its major sights.
the small pale blue boxes. The add an extra day. Foreign papers can be
yellow ones are used for spe- picked up at highly inflated
cial local services only. TELEVISION AND RADIO prices from the major hotels.
FAX AND E-MAIL Russian-language television

SERVICES is dominated by soap operas
local game shows and
Most of the city’s hotels talkshows. The best news in
offer fax services. (Note there Russian is on NTV, V Rossia an
are plans for the Main Post Channel One (formerly ORT)
Office to stay open round the Most hotels in St Petersbur
clock.) Post International and have satellite television
Westpost offer fax and e-mail and receive many other
services. Internet access is Western programmes.
available at cafés and clubs The best English-language
such as Cafe Max and Quo radio broadcast to the city on
Vadis?, as well as at the shortwave is still the BBC
Information Centre of the World Service.
DIRECTORY
TELEPHONE POSTAL SERVICES INTERNET CAFES COURIER SERVICES
SERVICES
Main Post Office Cafe Max DHL International
Peregovornyy Главпочтамт Kафе Mакс Centre
punkt (Call Centre) Glavpochtamt Nevskiy prospekt 90–92. Nevskiy prospekt 10.
Bolshaya Morskaya ul 28. Pochtamtskaya ul 9.
Map 6 E1. Map 7 B2.
Map 6 D1. Map 5 C2.
Tell 273 6655 or 272 6315. Tell 325 6100.
Tell 571 7011. Tell 312 8302.
# 24 hours daily. Fax
x 325 6116.
# 24 hours. # 9am–9pm Mon–Sun.
¢ public holidays. # 8am–8pm Mon–Fri.
Information Centre
MOBILE PHONE Post International of the Russian DHL International
SERVICES Nevskiy prospekt 34. National Library Centre
Map 6 E1. Информационно- Izmaylovskiy pr 4.
Megafon
Tell 570 4472. Cервисньій Центр Map 5 C5.
Мегафон
# 10am–7pm Mon–Fri, Pоссийская библиотека Tell 326 6400.
Artilleriyskaya ul.1.
11am– 4pm Sat. Sadovaya ul 20. F x 326 6410.
Fax
Map 3 B5.
Westpost Map 5 A5. Tell 310 9676. # 9am–7pm Mon–Fri,
Tell 329 4747.
www.megafon.ru Nevskiy prospekt 86. # 10am–7pm Mon–Sat. 10am– 4pm Sat.
Map 7 B2.
MTS Quo Vadis? Fedex
Tell 275 0784 or 336 6352.
МТС Kво Bадис Per Grivtsova 6.
Faxx 275 0806.
Kazanskaya ul 45. # 9:30am– 8pm Nevskiy prospekt 24. Map 6 D2.
Map 6 D2. Mon–Fri,r noon– 8pm Map 6 E1. Tell 325 8825.
Tell 380 0000. Sat & Sun. T l 571 0071 orr 571 8011.
Tel # 9am–7pm Mon–Fri,
www.mts.ru www. westpost.ru # 24 hours daily. 10am–4pm Sat.
GETTING TO ST PETERSBURG
S t Petersburg is slowly regaining its Independent travel in Russia is difficult

popularity as a tourist destination, as well as costly and for this reason it is
after the severe drop in
numbers during the early
1990s. Now, as the number
worth considering a package
tour. British companies run
a variety of tours with spe-
of businessmen regularly cialist guides, which often
travelling in and out is also incorporate St Petersburg
rising, the number of flights and Moscow. Since overall
and alternative means of trans- Aeroflot plane landing tourist numbers are still fairly
port is on the increase. Flying in St Petersburg limited, package tours are not
remains the most popular way among the cheapest. Shop-
of travelling to St Petersburg, both for ping around can uncover some good
individuals and groups, with the train deals, particularly on flights with stop-
from Moscow or Helsinki a close second. overs in Europe or low-season packages.
foreign exchange office. On

arrival, the longest wait is
likely to be for passport
control. Departures on the
weekend can be hectic and
it is best to arrive at least
90 minutes before a flight in
high season.
Pulkovo 1 is for domestic
flights only. The 1970s building
is cramped and dark, but
those using commercial flights
to and from Moscow have a
separate arrivals and departure
Stalinist architecture at Pulkovo 2, St Petersburg’s international airport lounge. On the first floor, this
has its own entrance which
ARRIVING BY AIR significantly reduced. cannot be reached from inside
Certainly, you should not the main terminal building.
Direct flights from the UK expect to find a direct flight
to St Petersburg run seven from Canada or Australasia. GETTING INTO THE CITY
days a week on British Airways It is worth noting that
and three days on Pulkovo. travelling from Australasia can Both airports are located
There are connecting flights be fairly complicated. The 17 km (11 miles) south of the
on other airlines every day most usual route is to pick up a city centre. The major hotels
and these are often a much European carrier in Singapore, operate cars to pick up
cheaper option. Scott’s Tours with a stopover in Europe. individual tourists for a cost
in London are particularly On landing, passengers are of around $45. The service,
good for budget fares. The sometimes required to confirm which can be charged to
plane journey from London onward flights. You can do
takes around three-and-a-half this through the airline you
hours, or about six hours with are travelling with or the
a stopover in a European city. Central Air Communi-
Direct flights to St Petersburg cation Agency on
from Ireland, US, Canada, Nevskiy prospekt. Limousine transfer service from the
South Africa and Australasia Grand Hotel Europe (see p185)
are either extremely limited or ST PETERSBURG
simply do not exist. The usual AIRPORTS
route from these destinations
is to fly via a European city International flights
(often Helsinki) or via arrive at Pulkovo 2
Moscow from where you can which, although recently
transfer to another flight or modernized, is still small
continue by road or rail. and relatively primitive.
During the winter the Its separate arrival and
number of direct flights to departure buildings each
St Petersburg from all have a small duty-free Ordinary yellow taxi waiting outside
international destinations is shop. Arrivals also has a the domestic airport, Pulkovo 1
G E T T I N G T O S T P E T E R S B U R G 219
or route taxi, travel the same between London and St

route and charge a minimally Petersburg via Central Europe
higher fare (see p227). (Warsaw, Prague, Berlin). It
takes about three days and is
TRAVELLING BY TRAIN generally more costly than
flying. The trains are comfor-
Rail is a relatively cheap table and usually run on time,
way to travel from Finland but unfortunately carriages
Moscow and within Russia can be overcrowded and
in general, although European thefts are not uncommon.
student discount passes Transit visas may also
provide little or no reduction be necessary for countries
No. 13 bus from Pulkovo 2 to in fares. such as Ukraine
Moskovskaya metro station More than 10 and Belarus
trains a day run (Belorussia).
in each direction All visitors to
between Russia need a
Moscow and visa and obtaining
Moscow Station one can be a
and Ladozhskiy Ticket office or kassa at complicated
Minibus or marshrutnoye taksi Station, and Central Train Ticket Office procedure. For
thr etween information on
the hotel bill, should always Helsinki and Ladozhskiy visa acquisition see page 210.
be requested when making a Station. For those with time Trains travelling from
hotel booking. The taxis and some sense of adventure, Eastern Europe arrive and
waiting at the airport only tend it is possible to travel by train depart from Vitebsk Station.
to undercut hotel cars by Tickets for train
about $5 while ordinary yellow journeys from St
cabs, rarely found at the inter- Petersburg should
national airport, are a great be bought from the
deal cheaper, charging around Central Train Ticket
$15–20 in roubles.Alfabank Office or Moscow
Anyone on a more limited Station, or from
budget, and who has already an agent such as
changed money at the airport, Okdail (see p220).
can take the No. 13 bus (from Taxis from train
Pulkovo 2) and No. 39 (from stations can be
Pulkovo 1) to Moskovskaya overpriced, but all
metro station. Minibuses, Finland Station, the departure point for local have efficient trans-
known as marshrutnoye taksi trains to Repino and the Gulf of Finland port connections.
TRAVELLING BETWEEN MOSCOW AND ST PETERSBURG

Many visitors fly in to Moscow and out of St Petersburg, or vice versa. The most popular form of
transport between the two cities is the train, of which there are ten or more a day. Daytime
trains take about five hours, while faster night-time trains take eight and a half hours. Prices
vary according to the class of the train – the Red Arrow being most
expensive – and the choice of seat. All trains have a choice of SV
(two-person compartment), coupéé (four-person), platzkartee (open
seating), or sidyachyyy (open seating). All except sidyachyyy are
sleepers. For daytime travelling
sidyachyyy is more comfortable and
St Petersburg – Moscow cheaper than platzkarte. One-way
sign in train carriage prices range from the equivalent
in roubles of around $70 for SVV to
$11.50 for sidyachyy. Prices do not always include bed linen,
for which there is an additional charge when you purchase
your ticket. On cheaper trains, the provodnik, or carriage
attendant, will issue and charge for bed linen. Food may be
available but it is best to travel with your own supplies.
Regular commercial flights connecting the two cities take
50–90 minutes. These are run by Aeroflot and independent
companies such as Pulkovo and Transaero. Prices are modest,
at around $65 for an economy class one-way ticket, and $122
for business class. Tickets are sold at the airport, or at the
Central Air Communication Agency. In summer, travel by SV compartment on the luxurious
boat to and from Moscow is also possible (see p220). Red Arrow train from Moscow
TRAVELLING BY BOAT Voyages Jules Verne, and in

the US through Panorama
Arriving by boat can be one Travel Ltd. Ships dock at St
of the most exciting and Petersburg’s River Terminal,
novel ways to approach St ten minutes’ walk from
Petersburg. However, ferries Proletarskaya metro. Cruise
and cruises operate irregularly companies run buses to and
and it is best to check with a from the city centre.
One of Finnord’s coaches travel agent for details. Luxury cruise ships from
Ferries from Scandinavia London, the US and elsewhere
TRAVELLING BY COACH usually dock at the Maritime arrive at the city’s cargo port,
Passenger Terminal, on the 5 km (3 miles) southwest of
Comfortable coaches run west side of Vasilevskiy
V Island. the centre. Access to the port
to and from Helsinki in Trolleybus No. 10 and bus No. is restricted, so the ships have
Finland, offering a cheaper al- 7 run from here to the centre their own coaches to carry
ternative to the train. Finnord or, heading in the other direc- tourists into town and back.
runs one daytime coach and tion, to Primorskaya
one overnight in each direc- metro station.
tion; the journey takes around In summer, river
eight hours. Coach companies cruises between
do not always use the city’s in- Moscow and St
convenient coach stations but Petersburg are run
will drop off instead at various along the V Volga and
locations in St Petersburg. across Lake Ladoga.
Finnord’s final stop is by the The trips last about
Pulkovskaya Hotel. Advance two weeks and
booking is advised with this make a very pleasu-
company as many Russians rable way to see
take advantage of these more of Russia. The
coaches to go shopping in cruises are bookable
Lappeenranta, just over the in the UK through Ferry moored at Maritime Passenger Terminal
border, or in Helsinki itself. Noble Caledonia or on western edge of Vasilevskiy Island
DIRECTORY
UK AND US TOUR AIRLINE OFFICES Pulkovo Airlines Moscow Station
COMPANIES Pulkovo-Express, 1-ya Московский вокзал
Austrian Airlines Krasnoarmeyskaya ul 4. Moskovskiy vokzal
Noble Caledonia Nevskiy pr 32. Map 7 B2. Map 6 D5. Tell 303 9268. Pl Vosstaniya. Map 7 C2.
Tell 331 2005.
11 Charles Street, Okdail
Tell 324 3244 (Pulkovo 2). SAS
London W1X 8LE. Nevskiy pr 24. Moscow Station (24 hrs) &
Tell (0207) 409 0376. British Airways Map 6 F2. Tell 326 2600. Central Train Ticket Office.
Malaya konyushennaya Tell 324 3244 (Pulkovo 2). Tell 335 9807, 740 1324.
Panorama Travel Ltd ulitsa 1/3A. Map 6 E1.
156 Fifth Ave, Suite 1019, Tell 380 0206. Transaero Vitebsk Station
New York, NY 10010. Tell 346 8146 (Pulkovo 2). Liteynyy pr 48. Map 7 A1. Витебский вокзал
Tell 279 6463/1974. Vitebskiy vokzal
Tell (212) 741 0033. Central Air Com- Zagorodnyy prospekt 52.
Faxx (212) 645 6276. munication Agency Map 6 E4.
TRAINS
Scott’s Tours Nevskiy pr 7/9. Map 6 D1.
141 Whitfield Street,
Tell 315 0072 (inter). All Train Enquiries COACHES
Tell 571 8093 (dom & CIS). Tell 055.
London W1P 5RY. Finnord
Tell (0207) 383 5353. Delta Airlines Central Train Ticket Italyanskaya ulitsa 37.
Faxx (0207) 383 3709. Bolshaya Morskaya 36. Map 6 F1. Tell 314 8951.
Map 5 C2.
Office
Центральные железно-
Voyages Jules Verne Tell 571 5819. BOATS
дорожные кассы
21 Dorset Square, Tsentralnye zhelezno-
Finnair
London NW1 6QG. Malaya Konyushennaya ul. dorozhnye kassy Maritime Passenger
Tell (0207) 616 1000. 1/3A. Nab kanala Griboedova 24. Terminal
Faxx (0207) 723 8629. Map 6 E1. Tell 303 9898. Map 6 E2. Tell 162 3344. Морской пассажирский
Tell 324 3249 (Pulkovo 2). вокзал (Morskoy
Finland Station passazhirskiy vokzal)
AIRPORT KLM финляндский вокзал Pl Morskoy Slavy.
INFORMATION Zagorodnyy prospekt 5. Finlyandskiy vokzal Tell 322 6052.
Map 7 A3. Tell 572 1108. Pl Lenina 6. Map 3 B3.
Pulkovo 1 River Terminal
Пулково 1 Tell 704 3822. Lufthansa Ladozhskiy Station жечной вокзал
Nevskiy pr. 32. Map 6 F2. Ладoжcкий вокзал Rechnoy vokzal
Pulkovo 2 Tell 320 1000. Ladozskniy vokzal Prospekt Obukhovskoy
Пулково 2 Tell 704 3444. Tell 324 3244 (Pulkovo 2). Zanevskiy pr 73. Oborony 195. Tell 262 0239.
G E T T I N G A R O U N D S T P E T E R S B U R G 221
GETTING AROUND ST PETERSBURG
A lthough public transport in the city Nevskiy prospekt is where many of the
is abundant, efficient and very city’s transport routes and main roads
cheap, the most enjoy-
able way to get around and fully
appreciate St Petersburg is on
meet. Metro lines, tram, bus and
trolleybus routes radiate out
from here, criss-crossing the city
foot. A glance at a map reveals with a network of rail tracks
that some attempt was made to and overhead wires. It is pos-
bestow the city with a rational, sible to travel without too much
organized layout, which makes difficulty to almost anywhere
it considerably easier to nego- Sign indicating
in town from this main avenue.
tiate. When exhaustion sets in, pedestrian crossing Driving is not recommended
however, a boat cruise along due to the combination of poor
the waterways can be a wonderful way road conditions, aggressive Russian
to become acquainted with the city. driving and over-efficient traffic police.
WALKING parks. Locals are very fond of

walking, whether it be prome-
In some areas, particularly nading up and down Nevskiy
around Palace Embankment, prospekt, or ambling around
sights are situated so close the Neva at 2am during the
together that using public White Nights (see p51). The
transport from place to place Summer Gardens (see p95)
is pointless. A few and Mikhaylovskiy
of the more scat- Gardens have long Street signs indicating street
tered sights are at been popular with directions and major shops
some distance (20 Petersburgers. For
mins on foot) from longer walks mixed these are simply recommend-
the nearest trans- Street sign for with some architec- ed crossing sites and drivers
port and walking Nevskiy prospekt tural interest, two are not obliged to stop. Be
the last stretch is good areas to try are warned that if you are caught
often the most practical option. Kamenniy and Yelagin islands crossing a road where there
Apart from the ease, getting (see pp136–7), with their offi- are no marked crossings, you
around on foot can be a most cial residences and dachas, may be fined by a traffic
rewarding way to explore the many dating from the early policeman (see p213).
city, allowing you to soak up years of the 20th century. There are few bicycles on
the atmosphere and appreci- For a romantic stroll around the roads, but cyclists tend to
ate the fascinating architectural the city away from the traffic, ignore traffic lights and signs
and sculptural detail on many walk along the Moyka or of all descriptions, causing an
of St Petersburg’s buildings. Griboedov canals additional hazard
As soon as the sun appears, (see pp134–5). To for the unwary
in winter as well as in summer, the south of Nevskiy pedestrian.
people of all ages emerge prospekt, majestic On the main city
onto the streets and into the buildings gradually streets, dark blue
give way to smaller, sponsored name-
19th-century resi- plates give street
dential blocks, names in Russian
complete with rows Sign showing a and English. Else-
of trees by the pedestrian underpass where, black-on-
waterside and leafy white street names
squares and courtyards. are in Cyrillic only. Many
Drivers have little respect for maps, like the free pull-out in
pedestrians and traffic is the Neva Newss (see p217), give the
main hindrance to walking. main street names in Cyrillic
Cars drive on the right-hand and in transliteration. If you
side, so look left first when get lost, a dual-language map
crossing the road. If there is can be helpful when asking
an underpass, use it and, if passersby for assistance.
not, look for a light-controlled Excellent walking tours in
crossing with red and green English, can be booked
figures indicating pedestrian through Peter’s Tours via the
right of way. Crossings with- International Youth Hostel
Mikhaylovskiy Gardens, behind the out lights are marked by a blue (see p171). For timings, log
Russian Museum (see pp104–107) sign showing a pedestrian, but on to www.peterswalk.com
Travelling by Metro
Since overland transport is the most
efficient means of getting around the
city centre, the metro is used mainly to
get to and from the outskirts of the
city. As a tourist attraction, however,
the metro’s stunning stations, intended
by Stalin to be “palaces for the people”, Steep escalators to platforms
Blue neon metro sign should be high on your itinerary. The
metro is extremely safe and runs a the centre ten minutes after
full service until after midnight. Travelling in the late this. There is no rush hour as
evening will avoid most of the two million people esti- such but the metro tends to
mated to use the metro each day. The main setback is be full at most times of day,
that signs are mostly in Cyrillic but, with just four lines, which makes it very safe.
Platforms are not staffed,
negotiating the network is still fairly straightforward. but there is an attendant in
a booth at the bottom of
The metro now each escalator who can call
has 60 stations, for assistance.
ranging in style Because of the many
and ambience waterways in the city, stations
from the dim light- are buried deep underground
ing and memorial and long escalators lead
atmosphere of down to the platforms.
Ploshchad Muz- Passengers are required to
hestva (Courage stand on the right, leaving the
Square, 1975) left side free for those who
near Piskarovskoe prefer walking.
Memorial Ceme- New stations are still being
teryy (see p126), to added to the St Petersburg
the 1980s vulgarity metro, the latest ones being
Exterior of Ploshchad Vosstaniya metro station of Udelnaya and Krestovskiy Ostrov, Staraya
the cool of Komen- Derevnya and Komendantskiy
THE METRO AS A dantskiy Prospekt (2005). Prospekt on the yellow line.
TOURIST ATTRACTION
THE NETWORK
The Soviet Union’s best archi-
tects were employed to The metro is vital for getting
design St Petersburg’s metro to and from the further afield
stations. Thousands of tonnes hotels and the airport. Directional sign listing all stops
of marble, granite and lime- The four lines run from the on this line in Cyrillic
stone were used to face the outskirts through the centre,
walls, and sculptures, mosaics where they intersect at one of
and chandeliers were com- six main stations.
missioned from leading artists. Trains run every few
The first line opened in 1955, minutes during the day and
its eight stations connecting every five minutes late at Interchange sign listing all
ploshchad Vosstaniya with the night and, although doors stations on the other line
new Stalinist blocks of flats in into stations close at
the southwest and the city’s midnight, the last trains leave FINDING YOUR WAY
largest factory, the Kirov
Factory. This line is one Before setting foot in St
of the most fascinating, Petersburg’s metro, ensure you
being the supreme em- have a network map with the
bodiment of Stalinist Cyrillic and transliterated
style and ideals. The names to hand. Signs inside
station at Kirovskiy the metro are mainly in
Zavod is a fine example, Cyrillic and wall maps have
a vast basilica, a temple become rare in station ticket
to the factory workers. halls and on the trains. Inside
The line’s crowning a station, the name is only
glory has to be Avtovo, written on the far wall of the
incorporating a wealth platform which means that, if
of style and detail, even the train is in the station, or if
down to the moulded Mosaics and unusual glass columns at you are on the train itself, it is
glass columns. richly decorated Avtovo metro station not possible to see the sign.
ST PETERSBURG’S METRO
Пp Пpocвещения Девяткинo
Pr Prosveshcheniya Devyatkino
Koмендaнтекий
Пpoеneкt Озеpки Гpaждaнcкий np
Metro platform sign showing Komendantskiy pr Ozerki Grazhdanskiy Pr
stations and interchanges Cтapaя деpевня
Staraya derevnya Удельнaя Aкaдемичеcкaя
Udelnaya Akademicheskaya
Kpеcтoвcкий ocтpoв
Busy stations in the city centre Krestovskiy ostrov Пиoнеpcкaя Пoлитеxничеcкaя
Pionerskaya Politekhnicheskaya
have a central concourse with
Чкaлoвcкaя
safety doors between this and Chkalovskaya Чеpнaя pечкa Пл Мyжеcтвa
Пpимopcкaя Chernaya Rechka Pl Muzhestva
the trains. When the train Primorskaya Cnopтивнaя Петpoгpaдcкaя
stops, these doors open, and Bacилеocтpoвcкaя
Sportivnaya Petrogradskaya Пеcнaя
only then do the train doors Vasileostrovskaya
Гopкoвcкaя
Lesnaya
open. At these stations, a map Gorkovskaya Bыбopгcкaя
Гocтиный двop Vyborgskaya
of the line you are on is to be Gostinyy Dvor
G
found on the concourse. Other Пл Ленинa
Pl Lenina
stations have platforms and the Пл Boccтaния Чеpнышевcкaя
Pl Vosstaniya Chernyshevskaya
map of the line is on the wall Hевcкий np
on the far side of the tracks. Nevskiy Pr Мaякoвcкaя
Cеннaя nл Caдoвaя Mayakovskaya
Before the train doors close, Sennaya Pl Sadovaya Bлaдимиpcкaя
pc
the driver will announce, Vladimirskaya
ka
“Ostorozhno. Dveri zakryva- Дocтoевcкaя
кa
Пy
Пyшкинcкaя Dostoevskaya
Do kay
yutsya”” (Be careful. The doors Pus
Pushkinskaya
ya Пигoвcкий
o np
are closing). As the train Tеxнoлoгичеcкий инcт Ligovskiy
Li ov Pr
approaches a stop, he will Tekhnologicheskiy Inst Tеxнoлoгичеcкий инcт
Tekhnologicheskiy Inst
say the name of the station Пл Aлекcaндpa Hевcкoгo
and mention if you need to БaлTийcкaя Pl Aleksandra Nevskovo
change here for another line, Baltiyskaya Фpyнзенcкaя
Frunzenskaya Пл Aлекcaндpa Hевcкoгo
followed by the name of the Hapвcкaя Eлизapoвcкaя Pl Aleksandra Nevskovo
Narvskaya Мocк вopoтa Elizarovskaya
next station. It is always best Mosk vorota Hoвoчеpкaccкaя
to keep count of the stops, Kиpoвcкий зaвoд Лoмoнocoвcкaя Novocherkasskaya
Kirovskiy Zavod Электpocилa Lomonosovskaya
in case you do not catch Elektrosila Лaдoжcкaя
Aвтoвo Пpoлеaapcкaя Ladozhskaya
the announcements. Avtovo Пapк Пoбеды Proletarskaya
To change to another line, Park Pobedy Пp бoлшевикoв
Ленинcкий np Обyxoвo Pr Bolshevikov
follow the interchange signs Leninskiy Pr Мocкoвcкaя Obukhovo
Moskovskaya Ул Дыбенкo
for переход (perekhod
( d– Пp Bетеpaнoв Pыбaцкoе Ul Dybenko
crossing). The exception is at Pr Veteranov 3везднaя Rybatskoe
Zvezdnaya
Tekhnologicheskiy Institut,
where the two southbound Kynчинo
Kupchino
lines are on parallel platforms,
as are the two northbound
lines: thus to continue with the magnetic strip Visitors who plan to stay in
in the same direction facing up. If you try the city for a while may find
on another line you to go through a it worthwhile to purchase a
simply cross the machine without personal “smart” card bearing
central concourse. paying, an their photograph, to which
Exits are marked automatic barrier they can transfer credit to
выход (vykhod) d . Some closes in front of you. fund future journeys at any
stations, such as Metro token At the far right an metro station. Such cards are
Moskovskaya (for the attendant checks not inserted into the barrier
airport) and Gostinyy Dvor, passes and allows you to put machines that check tickets
have two or more exits. your token in a machine and tokens, but placed briefly
which does not have automa- onto a sensor marked with a
TICKETS AND tic barriers. Those with mag- white circle. There are no
TRAVEL CARDS netic cards cannot pass further ticket checks once past
through this machine. the barriers, inside the station.
The most common means of Monthly magnetic passes for
paying for the metro is the the metro or for all forms of
token (zheton), purchasable public transport are valid for 70
only from metro stations. metro journeys and an infinite
Magnetic cards, which can be number of journeys on over-
topped up with as many trips ground transport during a cal-
as needed, are also available. endar month. They can only be
Barrier machines are installed purchased from the 10th to
at the top of the escalators; the 20th of the current month,
most take both cards and and are valid until the 15th of Card with magneticstrip, for travel
tokens. Cards must be inserted the next month. on the metro system
Travelling by Tram, Bus and Trolleybus

Overground transport is crowded
during the day, particularly at rush
hour, but it is still the best way to
make short trips around the city or
simply to sightsee. In the centre of
Tram-stop sign, seen
hanging over the rails town, an array of overhead tram and
trolleybus cables crisscross many
roads. Each form of transport has its advantages and
disadvantages. Trolleybuses are frequent and conveniently
routed but overcrowded; trams are less busy but noisy;
buses are usually sporadic. On all forms of public tran- People getting on a tram
sport you are unlikely to get a seat during the day. More
TRAMS
frequent and comfortable, and slightly more expensive,
are the commercial bus and minibus routes. Note that the Trams offer a marvellous way
newer outlying areas are often accessible only by bus, to see St Petersburg and are
and that during rush-hour it is often faster to walk. less crowded than trolleybuses.
Tram stops are marked by red
and white signs suspended on
wires above the tram rails.
Separate islands for people to
embark are found only on
wide roads outside the centre;
elsewhere passengers wait on
the pavement. When the tram
doors open, the oncoming
traffic is obliged to wait and
let passengers cross to and
from the pavement. In
practice, there is always one
car which cannot wait, so
take care before stepping out.
At various crossroads along
the route, the driver may need
to change points on the rails.
Tram at a stop in front of the Mariinskiy Theatre He will open his door or the
front passenger door to do
GENERAL INFORMATION As a stop approaches, people this. Do not attempt to board
near an exit may be asked Vy or exit a tram when it has
Trams, buses and trolleybuses vykhodite?? (“are you getting stopped for this purpose.
start at around 5:30am, and a out?”), which really means
little later along the middle of “could you move aside?”. At
the routes. The services busy times, head for the exit
operate with rather arbitrary well before your stop, or pre-
frequency during the day and pare to do some pushing.
very infrequently after 11pm, Good for sightseeing is the
grinding more or less to a halt No. 10 trolleybus, which runs
around midnight. Only a few from ploshchad Vosstaniya
V
of the city bus routes display through the centre and across
timetables. Each form of over- V
Vasilevskiy Island (see pp56–
ground transport has its own 63) to Primorskaya metro Sign for a bus stop, showing name
separate stops, and distances station. Other scenic routes are of stop and bus numbers
between them can be great. the No. 2 tram from the Field
Queueing is not standard of Mars (see p94) to the Chern- BUSES AND MINIBUSES
practice, so be prepared for aya Rechka metro station, the
an unruly rush to get on first. No. 22 bus from the Smolnyy All services run about every
Trams, buses and trolleybuses Institute (see p128)) via St Isaac’s 20 minutes, sometimes less
can be boarded at the front, Square (see p79) and the often. Bus stops in the city
middle or back. The front eight Mariinskiy Theatre (see p119) centre are marked by white
seats are reserved for the dis- towards the Stalinist architect- and yellow signs with a red
abled, the elderly and people ure in the southwest, and the letter “A” for avtobus, placed
with children, all of whom No. 46 or 76 bus from the Field by the side of the road or
have precedence getting on of Mars up Kamennoostrov- attached to lamp-posts. These
and off at the front. On board, skiy prospekt (see p70) and to are slowly replacing the old-
a conductor collects the fares. Kamenniy Island d (see pp136–7). style yellow signs.
TICKETS AND TRAVEL

CARDS
A flat fare is payable on all

forms of transport, what-ever
Side view of a single section tram the length of the journey.
Tickets are purchased from the
conductor (who wears a blue-
and-yellow jacket) or, on
commercial transport, from
the driver. The ticket must be
bought before the next stop
after you got on, and large
City trolleybus on Nevskiy prospekt items of baggage must be paid
for separately. Fines for non-
payment can be imposed on
the spot by plain-clothes in-
spectors. Check the inspector’s
identity document. Fines
should not come to more than
100 roubles.
The cheapest way to travel
in St Petersburg, if you are
A commercial bus on Vasilevskiy Island staying a few weeks or more,
is to buy a monthly or half- f
Many routes are now by small blue-and-white signs monthly card for all forms of
duplicated by commercial suspended from wires or transport, including the metro
buses, marked with a “k” be- lamp-posts, indicating the (see pp222–3). The magnetic
fore the number, or minibuses. trolleybus numbers. On main monthly card, or yedinyy bilet,
Fares on these buses are roads, stops are also marked is valid from the 16th of the
50% higher than those on by other signs on building current month until the 15th of
non-commercial equivalents, walls. These show the next, and can
and are paid to the driver what seems to be be bought from
when getting on or off – a flat-topped blue the 10th to the
just follow what other passen- “M”, but is in fact 20th of the current
gers do. These buses can be a Cyrillic “T” for month. Half- f
hailed or requested to stop trolleybus, on a monthly yedinyy
anywhere along the route. white background. biletyy run from
The power rods Trolleybus-stop sign on the 1st until the
TROLLEYBUSES on the roofs of the building wall 15th of the month,
trolleybuses are and can be pur-
Trolleybuses still run along known familiarly as “horns” chased from the last day of
the city’s main artery, Nevskiy (roga) or “little whiskers” the current month to the 5th
prospekt – unlike trams. They (usiki). Occasionally these of the next month. Separate
offer convenient routes and become detached from the monthly cards are also sold
stops around the city but are overhead cables and the for each form of transport.
often overcrowded. Ticket trolleybus lurches to a halt. It Travel cards are valid for trips
inspectors are most often on is the driver’s responsibility to to Tsarskoe Selo and Pavlovsk,
patrol on trolleybuses. reattach them, causing a slight but not Peterhof, Gatchina or
Trolleybus stops are marked but generally negligible delay. Oranienbaum (see pp228–9).
Waiting at a trolleybus stop on Nevskiy prospekt, near ploshchad Vosstaniya

Canal and River Cruises

St Petersburg’s numerous natural DIRECTORY
waterways were adapted and added
to, to make it resemble Peter the City Excursion Bureau
of St Petersburg
Great’s beloved Amsterdam (see Sadovaya ul 28–30. Map 6 E2.
pp20–21). Indeed, it would be true Tell 312 0527.
to say the city vies with Amsterdam MIR Travel Company
Sign for water taxi for the title “Venice of the North”. Nevskiy pr 11. Map
p 6 D1.
A wide selection of cruises, for Tell 325 7122/3341
small and large groups, in open and closed boats, depart www.russian-cruises.ru.
from bridges along Nevskiy prospekt. They offer marvel- Russkiye Kruizy
lous opportunities to see more of the city, especially for Nevskiy pr 51. Map 7 B2.
Tell 325 6120.
those unable to walk long distances. Forming part of any
cruise are the broad Fontanka river with its Neo-Classical Taxi Reservations
Tell 700 0000, 068 2651 333.
palaces, the leafy Moyka river with its ironwork bridges,
and the Griboedov canal which twists and turns its way
through southwest St Petersburg. Bring a bottle of NEVA CRUISES
champagne, a picnic and a warm jumper and just relax.
A variety of boats cruise up
Tickets for the next available and down the Neva between
boat should be purchased from the Gulf of Finland and the
the kiosk on the embankment, River Station (Rechnoy
although, if the vokzal) to the
queues are long, southeast. The trips,
tickets may be sold operating hourly
in advance for later between 10am and
cruises on the same 10pm, last an hour.
day. The trip lasts Foreigners pay more
70 minutes and than locals, but the
takes in the Moyka, tickets are not
Griboedov and expensive and can
Fontanka. Weather be bought on the
permitting, the boats landing stage or on
usually go out onto Ticket kiosk for canal the boat. The boats
the Neva, from trip, Anichkov Bridge leave from the land-
where there are ing stage opposite
Canal cruise on the Moyka superb views of the whole city. the Bronze Horseman on
Foreigners pay around $10– Decembrists’ Square, and from
GENERAL INFORMATION 20 in roubles for these trips, the one near the main entrance
slightly more than Russians. of the Hermitage (see p75).
The weather plays a vital role The guided tour is in Russian These boat trips are a pleas-
in determining the exact time only. Large groups are advised ant way of passing the time
of year canal cruises start and to book in advance, through rather than a serious sightsee-
finish. Most boats operate the kiosk or by phone, ing opportunity. Food and
daily from mid-May to late especially during school drink are usually served and,
September. Their routes also holidays. Boat trips providing in the evenings, alcohol is
vary because regular construc- guided tours in English can be available on some of the boats.
tion work, reinforcing the booked through any of the Luxury catered cruises can
granite embankments, some- major hotels. be booked in advance. MIR
times prevents movement During hot weather, it can get and Russkiye Kruizy offer a
along small parts of the canals. very stuffy and confined inside variety of routes along the
The Gulf of Finland is tidal the boats. The visibility through Neva and along a number of
and this affects the Neva and the scratched perspex windows the city’s many canals.
inland waterways. Strong winds can also be less than
can cause the water level to perfect at times. If you
rise significantly and all boat wish to stand outside
trips may then be cancelled. to see more, there is a
platform at the back
GUIDED CANAL TRIPS of the boat for which
there may be an extra
Large, covered cruise boats charge. Take your own
depart every 30 minutes, soft drinks and sand-
between 11:30am and 8pm, wiches, as these are
from the Anichkov Bridge on rarely available on Cruise boat on the Neva with the Hermitage
Nevskiy prospekt (see p49). board these cruises. and Palace Embankment in the background
crosses the Moyka, waterfronts. Most drivers can

or alongside the at least point out major sights
Gostinyy Dvor in English, others can give
metro station on the you a basic guided tour. If
Griboedov canal you ask in advance, it may be
close to Kazanskiy possible to find an English-
most. Larger boats speaking guide. Boats can be
may need to be booked in advance on pay-
negotiated at least a ment of a small deposit, but
couple of hours in are generally plentiful and are
advance to ensure best picked up spontaneously.
their availability. Since the boats are open and
Prices are negoti- it can be cold on the water-
able, but generally ways, particularly at night,
range from about warm clothing is necessary,
Water taxis moored on Griboedov canal near $30 to $50 an hour, even during the summer
Kazanskiy most by Nevskiy prospekt depending on the months. There is usually at
size of the boat and least one blanket on board for
WATER TAXIS the route you decide to anyone who is unequipped.
follow. One hour takes you Pilots allow you to do more
Water taxis are similar to along the inland waterways, or less as you like on board
private motorboats, carrying but an extra half hour the boat as long as it
anything from 4 to 20 people. includes the Neva, is safe, and tend to
During White Nights, boats crossing over to go be undisturbed
run late into the night. round the Peter by the noise of
For a small boat, wait at the and Paul Fortress popping cham-
landing stage on the north side (see pp66–7) and pagne corks or
of Zelenyy most where giving a good Water taxis on the Moyka other sounds
Nevskiy prospektt (see pp46–9) view of all the by Politseyskiy most of merrymaking.
Taxis hand out to hail a taxi, as

likely as not, a private car will
St Petersburg’s official yellow taxis are gradually being stop. Some of the cars are not
replaced by private cabs in a variety of colours. Most overly salubrious, but the
locals use the cheaper alternative of catching a chastnik, driver is likely to be more
effectively hitching a ride in any passing vehicle. willing with baggage than
official taxi drivers. Exercise
in the same direction as reasonable caution by not
you. Taxi fares are getting into any car with more
relatively cheap. than the driver already in it.
Newer cabs are Private cars, and taxis that
fitted with modern have not been pre-booked,
meters, which indicate the are not recommended for
St Petersburg’s bright yellow taxi sum to be paid, but meters in those who are travelling
the older taxis are unreliable alone at night.
OFFICIAL TAXIS or simply switched off. For As with ordinary taxis, name
this reason it is wise to agree your destination and, if the
The city’s distinctive yellow on a price before starting out driver agrees, be sure to settle
official taxi fleet has in recent on the journey to avoid a price before setting off.
years faced tough competition unnecessary confusion. If you
from private taxi firms which feel you have been over-
run imported modern cars. charged however, it is worth
Drivers of private taxis may disputing the matter.
charge a flat fare agreed in In some areas, official taxis
advance. Never get into a taxi are not readily available, and
parked in front of a hotel, you must either book one by
restaurant, airport or sight – phone or hope for a chastnik.
the fare will be extortionate.
Move a short distance away, CHASTNIKI
and hail a cab.
Whatever type of taxi you For many years Russians
choose to take, always name have been used to flagging
your destination before get- down the drivers of private
ting in. Taxis are not obliged cars, which are easier to
to take you, and they may locate and often cheaper to
well refuse, or simply drive use than official taxis. Thus, St Petersburgers flagging down a
away if they do not wish to go as soon as you stick your chastnik,
k or private car
Travelling Beyond St Petersburg

Every weekend during the summer, and even in winter,
many locals leave the city. They head for their dacha or
for the woods, to gather seasonal fruits and vegetables,
go cross-country skiing or visit one of the former
imperial summer residences. Buses and suburban trains
operate frequently throughout the year and are the
usual means of transport to sites out of town. Peterhof
is the unique exception in being accessible by hydro-
foil across the Gulf of Finland. Foreigners tend to take
coach excursions out of town but, with planning, Passengers boarding suburban
travelling independently can be part of the fun. train at Vitebsk Station
GETTING TO PETERHOF
AND ORANIENBAUM
There are suburban trains for

Peterhof (see pp148–51) and
Oranienbaum (see pp146–7)
departing every 20 minutes
from Baltic Station. The trains
that reach Oranienbaum are
those destined for Kalishche,
or Oranienbaum itself.
For Peterhof, get off the train
at Novyy Petergof (40 minutes
from town), from where it is
ten minutes to the palace on
bus 348, 350, 351, 352 or 356.
Interior view of one of St Petersburg’s suburban trains During the summer, take a
hydrofoil from the Hermitage.
SUBURBAN TRAINS GETTING TO TSARSKOE Fares are the equivalent of
SELO AND PAVLOVSK about $15 in roubles.
Train travel is the most At Oranienbaum, turn right
romantic way to visit most of Trains for Tsarskoe Selo out of the station and walk
the outlying sights. Tickets can (Pushkin) (see pp152–5) and about 200 m (650 ft) to the
be bought from the local cash Pavlovsk (see pp159–61) main road. Almost directly
desks (prigorodnyye kassy) at depart every 20 minutes from opposite is the entrance to the
each station, where a timetable Vitebsk Station. The line was park, and from here it is only
is displayed. Return tickets are originally built for the royal a five-minute walk to the
no cheaper than two singles. family to reach their summer Great Palace or into the heart
Note that smoking is prohibited residences and the station is of the park.
and that, between the hours a marvellous example of An efficient minibus service
of 10am and midday, there is Style-Moderne architecture. runs passangers to both
often a break in the timetable. The ticket office is on the Peterhof and Oranienbaum
right of the main building. from Avtovo metro station
All local trains take about in the city.
25 minutes, stopping first at
Tsarskoe Selo (Detskoe Selo), GETTING TO GATCHINA
then Pavlovsk.
At Detskoe Selo station, Trains run approximately
the 382 and 371 buses go to every half hour from Baltic
Tsarskoe Selo, stopping near Station to Gatchina (see
the palace. p147) and the journey takes
At Pavlovsk, the train station an hour.
is opposite the entrance to Opposite Gatchina train
the park, through which it is station is a short road leading
a pleasant half-hour walk to directly to the square in front
the palace. of the palace.
A host of minibuses run to Alternatively, there is a bus
Tsarskoe Selo (Pushkin) and No. 431 as well as regular,
Pavlosk from Moskovskaya fast minibuses running from
metro station in St Petersburg. Moskovskaya metro station.
They provide a reliable and On this particular suburban
Style-Moderne architecture in convenient alternative means route, city bus tickets and
Vitebsk station restaurant of transport to the train. monthly passes are not valid.
GETTING TO REPINO AND DRIVING IN and make no left turns on

THE GULF OF FINLAND ST PETERSBURG main roads unless a road sign
indicates that it is permitted.
For Repino (see p146) and the Car hire is still not widely In winter conditions, driving
Gulf of Finland, trains depart available in Russia. Cars and requires studded tyres as
every 20 minutes or so from minibuses in St Petersburg chains can be damaged on
Finland Station. Tickets can often be hired only with tram lines and vice versa. It is
should be bought at cash company drivers. Hertz and also advisable not to use your
desks within the main buil- Europcar are the exceptions handbrake in cold weather as
ding. Avoid any train marked to this rule, but their prices it has a tendency to freeze.
Beloostrov or Krugovoy. are much higher than in Unleaded petrol is rarely
At Repino, cross the main Europe, and they only accept available and you should use
road, head down the hill payment by credit card. nothing lower than grade 98
towards the Gulf of Finland For the few who do find petrol. There is no charge for
and turn left onto the asphalt themselves at the wheel, parking in most parts of the
road until you reach Penaty. there are a number of things city centre. The Nevskij Palace
Bus No. 211 also runs to to bear in mind. An interna- and Europe hotels (see p176)
Repino and stops right outside tional licence is obligatory, have 24-hour security parking.
Penaty. The bus leaves from as well as international
Chernaya Rechka metro. insurance and documents
proving you have the right
to be driving the car: for
example, registration doc-
uments or a hire agreement Road sign in Russian indicating
bearing your name. Traffic driver must stop
policemen (see p213) have
the right to stop you and DIRECTORY
check your documents. They
may not issue on-the-spot TRAIN AND COACH
fines for minor infringements STATIONS
– such as having a dirty
number plate, not having a All train enquiries
Coach to Novgorod first-aid kit, or more serious Tell 055.
offences such as drink-driv- Baltic Station
GETTING TO NOVGOROD ing. (Drivers are not allowed Балтийский вокзал
to drink any alcohol.) The Baltiyskiy vokzal
Coaches leave for Novgorod proper procedure is to issue a Nab Obvodnovo kanala 120.
(see pp162–5) every two ticket requiring payment
Coach Station
hours from the Coach Station. within a month at the State
Автобусный вокзал
Although it has been known Bank (Sberbank). The traffic
Avtobusnyy vokzal
for these rather old coaches police are active as they use
Nab Obvodnovo kanala 36.
to break down en route, they fines as a means of increasing
Map 7 C5. Tell 766 5777.
are nevertheless more reliable their income.
than trains. The journey takes Local drivers tend to ignore Finland Station
four hours. rules of the road and do more Финляндский вокзал
A simpler alternative is to or less as they like, so be on Finlyandskiy vokzal
book a tourr (see p208). your guard. Drive on the right Pl Lenina 6. Map 3 B3.
Moscow Station
THE HYDROFOIL TO PETERHOF Московский вокзал
The most enjoyable and by Moskovskiy vokzal
far the most scenic way to Pl Vosstaniya. Map 7 C2.
reach the imperial summer Vitebsk Station
palace of Peterhof is the 45- Витебский вокзал
minute trip across the Gulf Vitebskiy vokzal
of Finland by hydrofoil. The Zagorodnyy pr 52. Map 6 E4.
service runs from early June
until early October and sets Warsaw Station
Варшавский вокзал
off from the second landing
Varshavskiy vokzal
stage outside the Hermitage
(see p75) where a weekly Nab Obvodnovo kanala 118.
Hydrofoil arriving at the timetable is posted. Generally CAR HIRE

Hermitage landing stage hydrofoils operate every hour
from 9:30am with the last boat Europcar
returning at 6pm. Buy your return ticket on arrival at Peterhof. Pulkovo 2 Arrivals. Tell 703 5104.
A fee is charged to enter the lower park and this ticket is
Hertz
needed to get back into the park to return by hydrofoil.
Pulkovo 1 Arrivals. Tell 324 3242.
230 S T P E T E R S B U R G S T R E E T F I N D E R
ST PETERSBURG STREET FINDER

T he key map below
shows the areas of St
Petersburg covered by
the Street Finder. The map
references given throughout
maps, such as post offices,
metro stations, ferry stops
and churches. The Street
Finder index lists street
names in transliteration, fol-
the guide for sights, restau- lowed by Cyrillics (on the
rants, hotels, shops or maps, Cyrillics are only
entertainment venues refer given for major roads). This
to the maps in this section. Pausing on the steps guide uses the now reinstat-
All the major sights have of Kazan Cathedral ed old Russian street names,
been clearly marked so they rather than the Soviet ver-
are easy to locate. The key below sions (see p209). Places of interest
shows other features marked on the are listed by their English name name.
" 34 &

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0 kilometres 1
0 miles 1
KEY TO STREET FINDER
Major sight 4 River boat pier N Post office
Place of interest ª Taxi rank = Railway line

Other building a Hospital «45 House number (main street)
£ Train station b Police station
Q Metro station  Orthodox church
SCALE OF MAP PAG
P ES
v Tram stop 5 Church
v Trolleybus terminus u Synagogue 0 metres 300
@ Bus terminus U Mosque 0 yards 300

S T P E T E R S B U R G S T R E E T F I N D E R 231
Street Finder Index ABBREVIATIONS & USEFUL WORDS

1-ya Krasnoarmeyskaya ulitsa ul ulitsa street
1-Я КРАСНОАРМЕЙАКАЯ УЛИЦА 6 D5 pl ploshchad square
1-ya Inzhenernyy most
pr prospekt avenue
1-ЫЙ ИНЖЕРНЕРНЫЙ МОСТ 2 F5 per pereulok lane
1-ya Sovetskaya ulitsa
1-Я СОВЕТСКАЯ УЛИЦА 7 C2
most bridge
sad garden
2-y Luch, ulitsa 2-Й ЛУЧ, УЛИЦА 8 F5
shosse road
2-ya Krasnoarmeyskaya ulitsa
2-Я КРАСНОАРМЕЙСКАЯ УЛИЦА 6 D5
2-ya i 3-ya linii 2-Я И 3-Я ЛИНИИ 1 A4 Aleksandra Nevskovo, most
2-ya Sovetskaya ulitsa АЛЕКСАНДРА НЕВСКОГО, МОСТ 8 F3
2-Я СОВЕТСКАЯ УЛИЦА 7 C2 Aleksandra Nevskovo, ploshchad
3-ya Krasnoarmeyskaya ulitsa АЛЕКСАНДРА НЕВСКОГО, ПЛНЩАДЬ 8 E3
3-Я КРАСНОАРМЕЙСКАЯ УЛИЦА 6 D5 Aleksandra Nevskovo, ulitsa
3-ya Sovetskaya ulitsa АЛЕКСАНДРА НЕВСКОГО, УЛИЦА 8 E3
3-Я СОВЕТСКАЯ УЛИЦА 7 C2 Aleksandrovskiy park
4-ya Krasnoarmeyskaya ulitsa АЛЕКСАНДРОВСКИЙ ПАРК 2 D3
4-Я КРАСНОАРМЕЙСКАЯ УЛИЦА 6 D5 Alexander Nevsky Monastery 8 E4
4-ya i 5-ya linii 4-Я И 5-Я ЛИНИИ 1 A4, 5 A1 Angliyskaya naberezhnaya
4-ya Sovetskaya ulitsa АНГЛИЙСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 5 B2
4-Я СОВЕТСКАЯ УЛИЦА 7 C1 Angliyskiy most АНГЛИЙСКИЙ МОСТ 5 B5
5-ya Krasnoarmeyskaya ulitsa Angliyskiy prospekt
5-Я КРАСНОАРМЕЙСКАЯ УЛИЦА 6 D5 АНГЛИЙСКИЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 5 A3
5-ya Sovetskaya ulitsa Anichkov most АНИЧКИЙ МОСТ 7 A2
5-Я СОВЕТСКАЯ УЛИЦА 7 C1 Anichkov Palace 7 A2
6-ya i 7-ya linii 6-Я И 7-Я ЛИНИИ 1 A5, 5 A1 Antonenko, pereulok
6-ya Sovetskaya ulitsa АНТОНЕНКО, ПЕРЕУЛОК 6 D2
6-Я СОВЕТСКАЯ УЛИЦА 7 C1 Apraksin Market 6 E2
7-ya Sovetskaya ulitsa Apraksin pereulok
7-Я СОВЕТСКАЯ УЛИЦА 7 C1 АПРАКСИН ПЕРЕУЛОК 6 E3
8-ya Krasnoarmeyskaya ulitsa Aptekarskiy pereulok
8-Я КРАСНОАРМЕЙСКАЯ УЛИЦА 5 C5 АПТЕКАРСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2 E5
8-ya Sovetskaya ulitsa Armenian Church 6 F1
8-Я СОВЕТСКАЯ УЛИЦА 8 D1 Arsenalnaya naberezhnaya
9-ya Krasnoarmeyskaya ulitsa АРСЕНАЛЬНАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 3 B3
9-Я КРАСНОАРМЕЙСКАЯ УЛИЦА 5 C5 Arsenalnaya ulitsa
9-ya liniya 9-Я ЛИНИЯ 5 A1 АРСЕНАЛЬНАЯ УЛИЦА 3 C1
9-ya Sovetskaya ulitsa Artilleriyskaya ulitsa
9-Я СОВЕТСКАЯ УЛИЦА 8 D1 АРТИЛЛЕРИЙСКИЙ УЛИЦА 3 B5
10-ya Krasnoarmeyskaya ulitsa Artillery Museum 2 D3
10-Я КРАСНОАРМЕЙСКАЯ УЛИЦА 5 B5 Arts Square 6 F1
10-ya Sovetskaya ulitsa Astoria Hotel 6 D2
10-Я СОВЕТСКАЯ УЛИЦА 8 D1 Atamanskaya ulitsa
11-ya liniya 11-Я ЛИСИЯ 5 A1 АТАМАНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 8 D5
13-ya Krasnoarmeyskaya ulitsa Atamanskiy most АТАМАНСКАЯ МОСТ 8 D5
13-Я КРАСНОАРМЕЙСКАЯ УЛИЦА 5 C5
B
A Bakunina, prospekt
Academy of Arts 5 B1 БАКУНИНА, ПРОСПЕКТ 8 D2
Admirala Lazareva, naberezhnaya Bankovskiy most БАНКОВСКИЙ МОСТ 6 E2
АДМИРАЛА ЛАЗАРЕВA, НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 1 A1 Bankovskiy pereulok
Admiralteyskaya naberezhnaya БАНКОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6 E2
АДМИРАЛТЕЙСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 5 C1 Barmaleeva, ulitsa БАРМАЛЕЕВА, УЛИЦА 1 C1
Admiralteyskiy proezd Barochnaya ulitsa БАРОЧНAЯ УЛИЦА 1 A1
АДМИРАЛТЕЙСКИЙ ПРОЕЗД 6 D1 Baskov pereulok
Admiralteyskovo Kanala, naberezhnaya БАСКОВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3 B5, 7 C1
АДМИРАЛТЕЙСКОВО КАНАЛА, НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 5 B2 Batayskiy pereulok
Admiralteyskiy prospekt БАТАЙСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6 E5
АДМИРАЛТЕЙСКИЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 5 C1 Belinskovo, ulitsa
Admiralty 5 C1 БЕЛИНСКОГО, УЛИЦА 7 A1
Akademika Lebedeva, ulitsa Belinskovo, most БЕЛИНСКОГО, МОСТ 7 A1
АКАДЕМИКА ЛЕБЕДЕВА, УЛИЦА 3 B2 Birzhevaya liniya БИРЖЕВАЯ ЛИННЯ 1 B5
Akademika Sakharova, ploshchad Birzhevaya ploshchad
АКАДЕМИКА САХАРОВА, ПЛОЩАДЬ 1 B5 БИРЖЕВАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 1 C5
Birzhevoy most
Birzhevoy pereulok
БИРЖЕВОЙ МОСТ 1 C4
D
Decembrists’ Square 5 C1
БИРЖЕВОЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 1 B4
Degtyarnaya ulitsa ДЕГТЯРНАЯ УЛИЦА 8 D2
Birzhevoy proezd БИРЖЕВОЙ ПРОЕЗД 1 C5
Degtyarnyy pereulok
Blagoeva, ulitsa БЛАГОЕВА, УЛИЦА 1 C3
ДЕГТЯРНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 4 E5, 8 D1
Blokhina, ulitsa БЛОХИНА, УЛИЦА 1 B3
Dekabristov, ulitsa
Bobruyskaya ulitsa БОБРУИСКАЯ УЛИЦА 3 B1
ДЕКАБРИСТОВ, УЛИЦА 5 A3
Bolshaya Konyushennaya ulitsa
Dekabristov, Proezd
БОЛЬШАЯ КОНЮШЕННАЯ УЛИЦА 6 E1
ДЕКАБРИСТОВ, ПРОЕЗД 5 C1
Bolshaya Monetnaya ulitsa
Derptskiy pereulok
БОЛЬШАЯ МОНЕТНАЯ УЛИЦА 2 D2
ДЕРПТСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5 B5
Bolshaya Morskaya ulitsa
Divenskaya ulitsa ДИВЕНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 2 E2
БОЛЬШАЯ МОРСКАЯ УЛИЦА 5 B2
Dmitrovskiy pereulok
Bolshaya Moskovskaya ulitsa
ДМИТРОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7 B2
БОЛЬШАЯ МОСКОВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 7 A3
Dnepropetrovskaya ulitsa
Bolshaya Podyacheskaya ulitsa
ДНЕПРОПЕТРОВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 7 C5
БОЛЬШАЯ ПОДЬЯЧЕСКАЯ УЛИЦА 5 C4
Dobrolyubova, prospekt
Bolshaya Posadskaya ulitsa
ДОВРОЛЮБОВА, ПРОСПЕКТ 1 B3
БОЛЬШАЯ ПОСАДСКАЯ УЛИЦА 2 E2
Dostoevskovo, ulitsa
Bolshaya Pushkarskaya ulitsa
ДОСТОЕВСКОГО, УЛИЦА 7 A4
БОЛЬШАЯ ПУШКАРСКАЯ УЛИЦА 1 C2
Dostoevsky House-Museum 7 B3
Bolshaya Raznochinnaya ulitsa
Drovyanaya ulitsa ДРОВЯНАЯ УЛИЦА 5 B5
БОЛЬШАЯ РАЗНОЧИННАЯ УЛИЦА 1 A1
Drovyanoy pereulok
Bolshaya Zelenina ulitsa
ДРОВЯНОЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5 A4
БОЛЬШАЯ ЗЕЛЕНИНА УЛИЦА 1 A1
Dumskaya ulitsa ДУМСКАЯ УЛИЦА 6 E2
Bolsheokhtinskiy most
БОЛЬШЕОXТИНСКИЙ МОСТ 4 F5 Dvortsovaya naberezhnaya
ДВОРЦОВАЯ НАБЕРЕЖHАЯ 2 D5
Bolshoy prospekt (Vasilievskiy Island)
БОЛЬШОЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 1 A5, 5 A1 Dvortsovaya ploshchad
ДВОРЦОВАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 6 D1
Bolshoy prospekt (Petrogradskaya)
БОЛЬШОЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 1 B3, 1 C1 Dvortsovyy most ДВОРЦОВЫЙ МОСТ 1 C5
Bolshoy Sampsonievskiy prospekt
БОЛЬШОЙ САМПСОНИЕВСКИЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 3 A1 E
Bonch-Bruevicha, ulitsa Egipetskiy most ЕГИПЕТСКИЙ МОСТ 5 B5
БОНЧ-БРУЕВИЧА, УЛИЦА 4 F5 Egorova, ulitsa ЕГОРОВА, УЛИЦА 6 D5
Borodinskaya ulitsa Engineers’ Castle 2 F5
БОРОДИНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 6 F3 Engineer’s House 2 D3
Borovaya ulitsa БОРОВАЯ УЛИЦА 7 A4 The English Quay 5 B2
Botkinskaya ulitsa Evgenevskaya ulitsa
БОТКИНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 3 A2 ЕВГЕНЬЕВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 8 D2
Boytsova, pereulok
БОЙЦОВА, ПЕРЕУЛОК 6 D4 F
Bronnitskaya ulitsa БРОННИЦКАЯ УЛИЦА 6 E5 Feodosiyskaya ulitsa
Bronze Horseman, The 5 C1 ФЕОДОСИЙСКАЯ УЛИЦА 4 F1
Field of Mars 2 F5
C Finland Station 3 B3
Cabin of Peter the Great 2 F3 Finskiy pereulok
Cathedral of SS Peter and Paul 2 D4 ФИНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3 B2
Cathedral of the Transfiguration 3 B5 Fonarnyy most ФОНАРНЫЙ МОСТ 5 C2
Chapaeva, ulitsa ЧАПАЕВА, УЛИЦА 2 F1 Fonarnyy pereulok
Chekhova, ulitsa ЧЕХОВА, УЛИЦА 7 B1 ФОНАРНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5 C2
Chernomorskiy pereulok Furshtatskaya ulitsa
ЧЕРНОМОРСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5 C1 ФУРШТАТСКАЯ УЛИЦА 3 B4
Chernyakhovskovo, ulitsa
ЧЕРНЯХОВСКОГО, УЛИЦА 7 B5 G
Chernyshevskovo, prospekt Gagarinskaya ulitsa
ЧЕРНЫШЕВСКОГО, ПРОСПЕКТ 3 B4 ГАГАРИНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 3 A4
Chernyshevskovo, sad im Galernaya ulitsa ГАЛЕРНАЯ УЛИЦА 5 A2
ЧЕРНЫШЕВСКОГО, САД ИМ 8 D2 Gatchinskaya ulitsa
Chaykovskovo, ulitsa ГАТЧИНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 1 B1
ЧАЙКОВСКОГО, УЛИЦА 3 A4 Gazovaya ulitsa ГАЗОВАЯ УЛИЦА 1 B1
Chkalovskiy prospekt Gimnazicheskiy pereulok
ЧКАЛОВСКИЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 1 A2 ГИМНАЗИЧЕСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 1 A2
Circus 7 A1 Glinka Capella 2 E5
Commandant’s House 2 D4 Glinki, ulitsa ГЛИНКИ, УЛИЦА 5 B3
Cruiser Aurora 2 F3 Glinyanaya ulitsa ГЛИНЯНАЯ УЛИЦА 8 D5
Glukhaya Zelenina ulitsa Kazanskiy most КАЗАНСКИЙ МОСТ 6 E1

ГЛУХАЯ ЗЕЛЕНИНА УЛИЦА 1 A1 Kazarmennyy pereulok
Glukhoozerskoe shosse КАЗАРМЕННЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2 F1
ГЛУХООЗЕРСКОЕ ШОССЕ 8 D5 Kharkovskaya ulitsa
Goncharnaya ulitsa ГОНЧАРНАЯ УЛИЦА 7 C2 ХАРЬКОВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 8 D3
Gorokhovaya ulitsa ГОРОХОВАЯ УЛИЦА 6 D1 Khersonskaya ulitsa ХЕРСОНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 8 D2
Gorstkin most ГОРСТКИН МОСТ 6 E3 Khersonskiy proezd ХЕРСОНСКЙЙ ПРОЕЗД 8 E3
Gostinyy Dvor 6 F2 Khrustalnaya ulitsa
Grafskiy pereulok ХРУСТАЛЬНАЯ УЛИЦА 8 F5
ГРАФСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7 A2 Kirillovskaya ulitsa
Grand Hotel Europe 6 F1 КИРИЛЛОВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 8 E1
Grazhdanskaya ulitsa Kirov Museum 2 D1
ГРАЖДАНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 6 D3 Kirochnaya ulitsa КИРOЧНАЯ УЛИЦА 3 B5
Grecheskaya ploshchad Kirpichnyy pereulok
ГРЕЧЕСКАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 7 C1 КИРПИЧНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6 D1
Grecheskiy prospekt Klimov pereulok КЛИМОВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5 B5
ГРЕЧЕСКИЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 7 C1
Klinicheskaya ulitsa
Griboedova, naberezhnaya Kanala КЛИНИЧЕСКАЯ УЛИЦА 3 A2
ГРИБОЕДОВА, НАБЕРЕЖПАЯ КАНАЛА 5 A4
Klinskiy prospekt
Grivtsova, pereulok
КЛИНСКИЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 6 E5
ГРИВЦОВА, HЕРЕУЛОК 6 D2
Kolokolnaya ulitsa
Grodnenskiy pereulok
КОЛОКОЛЬНАЯ УЛИЦА 7 A2
ГРОДНЕНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3C5
Kolomenskaya ulitsa
КОЛОМЕНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 7 B3
H Kolpinskaya ulitsa
Hermitage, The 2 D5
КОЛПИНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 1 B2
Horseguards’ Manège 5 C2
Komissara Smirnova, ulitsa
House of Fabergé 6 D1
КОМИССАРА СМИРНОВА, УЛИЦА 3 A1
Komsomola, ulitsa КОМСОМОЛА, УЛИЦА 3 C3
I Kondratevskiy prospekt
Imperial Stables 2 E5 КОНДРАТЬЕВСКИЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 4 D2
Inzhenernaya ulitsa
Konnaya ulitsa КОННАЯ УЛИЦА 8 D2
ИНЖЕНЕРНАЯ УЛИЦА 6 F1
Konnogvardeyskiy bulvar
Inzhenernyy most
КОННОГВАРДЕЙСКИЙ БУЛЬВАР 5 B2
1-ЫЙ ИНЖЕРНЕРНЫЙ МОСТ 2 F5
Konnyy pereulok КОННЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2 E2
Ioannovskiy most
Konstantina Zaslonova, ulitsa
ИОАННОВСКИЙ МОСТ 2 E3
КОНСТАНТИНА ЗАСЛОНОВА, УЛИЦА 7 A4
Isaakievskaya ploshchad
ИСААКИЕВСКАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 5 C2 Konstantinogradskaya ulitsa
КОНСТАНТИНОГРАДСКАЯ УЛИЦА 8 D4
Ispolkomskaya ulitsa
ИСПОЛКОМСКАЯ УЛИЦА 8 D3 Konyushennaya ploshchad
КОНЮШЕННАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 2 E5
Italyanskaya ulitsa
ИТАЛЬЯНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 6 F1 Korolenko, ulitsa КОРОЛЕНКО, УЛИЦА 3 B5
Izhorskaya ulitsa ИЖОРСКАЯ УЛИЦА 1 B2 Korpusnaya ulitsa КОРПУСНАЯ УЛИЦА 1 A1
Izmaylovskiy most Kotovskovo, ulitsa
ИЗМАЙЛОВСКИЙ МОСТ 5 C4 КОТОВСКОГО, УЛИЦА 2 E1
Izmaylovskiy prospekt Kovenskiy pereulok
ИЗМАЙЛОВСКИЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 5 C5 КОВЕНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7 B1
Izmaylovskiy sad Krasnoselskaya ulitsa
ИЗМАЙЛОВCКАИЙ CAД 6 D4 КРАСНОСЕЛЬСКАЯ УЛИЦА 1 B2
Krasnovo Kursanta, ulitsa
K КРАСНОГО КУРСАНТА, УЛИЦА 1 A2
Kaluzhskiy pereulok Krasnovo Tekstilshchika, ulitsa
КАЛУЖСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 4 E4 КРАСНОГО ТЕКСТИЛЬЩИКА, УЛИЦА 4 F5
Kamennoostrovskiy prospekt Krasnoy Svyazi, ulitsa
КАМЕННООСТРОВСКИЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 2 D1 КРАСНОЙ СВЯЗИ, УЛИЦА 3 C5
Kanonerskaya ulitsa Krasnyy most КРАСНЫЙ МОСТ 6 D2
КАНОНЕРСКАЯ УЛИЦА 5 B4 Kremenchugskaya ulitsa
Karavannaya ulitsa КАРАВАННАЯ УЛИЦА 7 A1 КРЕМЕНЧУГСКАЯ УЛИЦА 8 D4
Kavalergardskaya ulitsa Kronverkskaya naberezhnaya
КАВАЛЕРГАРДСКАЯ УЛИЦА 4 E4 КРОНВЕРКСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 2 D3
Kazachiy pereulok Kronverkskaya, ulitsa
КАЗАЧИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6 E4 КРОНВЕРКСКАЯ, УЛИЦА 2 D2
Kazan Cathedral 6 E1 Kronverkskiy prospekt
Kazanskaya ploshchad КРОНВЕРКСКИЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 1 C3
КАЗАНСКАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 6 E2 Kronverkskiy most
Kazanskaya ulitsa КАЗАНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 6 D2 КРОНВЕРКСКИЙ МОСТ 2 D4
Kropotkina, ulitsa Malaya Grebetskaya ulitsa

КРОПОТКИНА, УЛИЦА 1 C2 МАЛАЯ ГРЕБЕЦКАЯ УЛИЦА 1 B2
Krylova, pereulok Malaya Konyushennaya ulitsa
КРЫЛОВА, ПЕРЕУЛОК 6 F2 МАЛАЯ КОНЮШЕННАЯ УЛИЦА 6 E1
Kryukova Kanala, naberezhnaya Malaya Monetnaya ulitsa
КРЮКОВА КАНАЛА, НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 5 B2 МАЛАЯ МОНЕТНАЯ УЛИЦА 2 E1
Kshesinskaya Mansion 2 E3 Malaya Morskaya ulitsa
Kulibina, ploshchad МАЛАЯ МОРСКАЯ УЛИЦА 6 D1
КУЛИБИНА, ПЛОЩАДЬ 5 A4 Malaya Posadskaya ulitsa
Kunstkammer 1 C5 МАЛАЯ ПОСАДСКАЯ УЛИЦА 2 E2
Kurskaya ulitsa КУРСКАЯ УЛИЦА 7 A5 Malaya Pushkarskaya ulitsa
Kutuzova, naberezhnaya МАЛАЯ ПУШКАРСКАЯ УЛИЦА 1 C2
КУТУЗОВА, НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 2 F4, 3 A4 Malaya Raznochinnaya ulitsa
Kuybysheva, ulitsa КУЙБЫШЕВА, УЛИЦА 2 E3 МАЛАЯ РAЗНОЧИННАЯ УЛИЦА 1 B2
Kuznechnyy pereulok Malaya sadovaya ulitsa
КУЗНЕЧНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7 A3 МАЛАЯ САДОВАЯ УЛИЦА 6 F1
Kvarengi, pereulok Malaya Zelenina ulitsa
КВАРЕНГИ, ПЕРЕУЛОК 4 F4 МАЛАЯ ЗЕЛЕНИНА УЛИЦА 1 A1
Malodetskoselskiy prospekt
L МАЛОДЕТСКОСЕЛЬСКИЙ ПРОСПЕКТ
Malookhtinskiy prospekt
6 E5
Labutina, ulitsa ЛАБУТИНА, УЛИЦА 5 B4

МАЛООХТИНСКИЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 8 F2
Ladygina, pereulok ЛАДЫГИНА, ПЕРЕУЛОК 5 B5
Malyy prospekt МAЛЫЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 1 B2
Lakhtinskaya ulitsa ЛАХТИНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 1 B1
Manezhnyy pereulok
Lazaretnyy pereulok
МАНЕЖНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3 B5
ЛАЗАРЕТНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6 E4
Marata, ulitsa МАРАТА, УЛИЦА 6 F4, 7 A4
Lebyazhevo Kanala, naberezhnaya
Marble Palace 2 E4
ЛЕБЯЖЬЕГО КАНАЛА, НАБЕРЕЖHАЯ 2 F5
Mariinskiy proezd
Lenina, ploshchad ЛЕНИНА, ПЛОЩАДЬ 3 B3
МАРИИНСКАЯ ПРОЕЗД 4 D5
Lenina, ulitsa ЛЕНИНА, УЛИЦА 1 B1
Mariinskiy Theatre 5 B3
Lermontovskiy prospekt
Markina, ulitsa МАРКИНА УЛИЦА 1 C2
ЛЕРМОНТОВСКИЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 5 B3
Marsovo pole МАРСОВО ПОЛЕ 2 F5
Leshtukov most ЛЕШТУКОВ МОСТ 6 F3
Masterskaya ulitsa МАСТЕРСКАЯ УЛИЦА 5 A3
Leshtukov pereulok ЛЕШТУКОВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6 F3
Matveeva, pereulok
Lesnoy prospekt ЛЕСНОЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 3 B1
МАТВЕЕВА ПЕРЕУЛОК 5 B3
Letniy sad ЛЕТНИЙ САД 2 F5
Mayakovskovo, ulitsa
Levashovskiy prospekt
МАЯКОВСКОГО УЛИЦА 3 B5, 7 B1
ЛЕВАШОВCКИЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 1 A1
Melnichnaya ulitsa
Leytenanta Shmidta, most
МЕЛЬНИЧНАЯ УЛИЦА 8 F5
ЛЕЙТЕНАНТА ШМИДТА, МОСТ 5 B1
Mendeleevskaya liniya
Leytenanta Shmidta, naberezhnaya
МЕНДЕЛЕЕВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 1 C5
ЛЕЙТЕНАНТА ШМИДТА, НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 5 A1
Menshikov Palace 1 B5, 5 B1
Lieutenant Shmidt Bridge 5 B1
Michurinskaya ulitsa
Ligovskiy prospekt
МИЧУPИНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 2 E2
ЛИГОВСКИЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 7 B4
Mikhaylovskaya ulitsa
Literary Café 6 E1
МИХАЙЛОВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 6 F1
Liteynyy most ЛИТЕЙНЫЙ МОСТ 3 A3
Mikhaylova, ulitsa
Liteynyy prospekt МИХАЙЛОВА УЛИЦА 3 C2
ЛИТЕЙНЫЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 3 A5, 7 A1
Mikhaylovskiy sad
Lizy Chaykinoy, ulitsa МИХАЙЛОВСКИЙ САД 2 F5, 6 F1
ЛИЗЫ ЧАЙКИНОЙ, УЛИЦА 1 C3
Millionnaya ulitsa
Lodeynopolskaya ulitsa МИЛЛИOННАЯ УЛИЦА 2 E5
ЛОДЕЙНОПОЛЬСКАЯ УЛИЦА 1 B1
Mineralnaya ulitsa
Lomonosova, most ЛОМОНОСОВА, МОСТ 6 F3 МИНЕРАЛЬНАЯ УЛИЦА 3 C1
Lomonosova, ploshchad Minskiy pereulok
ЛОМОНОСОВА, ПЛОЩАДЬ 6 F2 МИНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5 B3
Lomonosova, ulitsa Mira, ulitsa МИРА, УЛИЦА 2 D2
ЛОМОНОСОВА, УЛИЦА 6 F2
Mirgorodskaya ulitsa
Lutheran Church 6 E1 МИРГОРОДСКАЯ УЛИЦА 8 D3
Lva Tolstovo, ulitsa Moiseenko, ulitsa
ЛЬВА ТОЛСТОГО, УЛИЦА 2 D1 МОИСЕЕНКО, УЛИЦА 8 D1
Lvinyy most ЛЬВИНЫЙ МОСТ 5 C3 Mokhovaya ulitsa
МОХОВАЯ УЛИЦА 3 A4, 7 A1
M Monastyrki, naberezhnaya Reki
Main Post Office 5 C2 МОНАСТЫРКИ, НАБЕРЕЖHАЯ РЕКИ 8 E5
Makarenko, pereulok Monchegorskaya ulitsa
МАКАРЕНКО, ПЕРЕУЛОК 5 C4 МОНЧЕГОРСКАЯ УЛИЦА 1 B2
Makarova, naberezhnaya Moskatelnyy pereulok
МАКАРОВА, НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 1 A4 МОСКАТЕЛЬНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6 E2
Moskovskiy prospekt Pechatnika Grigoreva, ulitsa

МОСКОВСКИЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 6 D3 ПЕЧАТНИКА ГРИГОРЬЕВА, УЛИЦА 7 A4
Mozhayskaya ulitsa МОЖАЙСКАЯ УЛИЦА 6 E5 Penkovaya ulitsa ПЕНЬКОВАЯ УЛИЦА 2 F3
Muchnoy pereulok МУЧНОЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6 E2 Perekupnoy pereulok
Myasnaya ulitsa МЯСНАЯ УЛИЦА 5 A4 ПЕРЕКУПНОЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8 D3
Mytninskaya naberezhnaya Pestelya, ulitsa ПЕСТЕЛЯ, УЛИЦА 3 A5
МЫТНИНСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 1 C4 Peter Gate 2 E3
Mytninskaya ulitsa Petra Velikovo, most
МЫТНИНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 8 D2 ПЕТРА ВЕЛИКОГО, МОСТ 4 F5
Mytninskiy pereulok Petrogradskaya naberezhnaya
МЫТНИНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 1 C3 ПЕТРОГРАДСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖПАЯ 2 F1
Petrovskaya naberezhnaya
N ПЕТРОВСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖПАЯ 2 E3
Naval Museum 1 C5 Petrozavodskaya ulitsa
ПЕТРОЗАВОДСКАЯ УЛИЦА 1 B1
Neftyanaya doroga НЕФТЯНАЯ ДОРОГА 7 C5
Pevcheskiy most ПЕВЧЕСКИЙ МОСТ 2 E5
Nekrasova, ulitsa НЕКРАСОВА, УЛИЦА 7 B1
Pevcheskiy pereulok
Nesterova, pereulok
ПЕВЧЕСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2 E2
НЕСТЕРОВА, ПЕРЕУЛОК 1 B3
Pinskiy pereulok ПИНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2 F2
Neva Gate 2 E4
Pionerskaya ploshchad
Nevskiy prospekt
ПИОНЕРСКАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 6 F4
НЕВСКИЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 6 D1, 7 A2
Pionerskaya ulitsa ПИОНЕРСКАЯ УЛИЦА 1 A2
New Holland 5 B2
Pirogova, pereulok
Nikolskaya ploshchad
ПИРОГОВА, ПЕРЕУЛОК 5 C2
НИКОЛЬСКАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 5 C4
Pirogovskaya naberezhnaya
Nikolskiy pereulok
ПИРОГОВСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖПАЯ 2 F1, 3 A2
НИКОЛЬСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5 C4
Pisareva, ulitsa ПИСАРЕВА, УЛИЦА 5 A3
Novgorodskaya ulitsa
Plutalova, ulitsa ПЛУТАЛОВА, УЛИЦА 1 C1
НОВГОРОДСКАЯ УЛИЦА 4 E5, 8 E1
Pochtamtskaya ulitsa
Novoadmiralteyskovo Kanala, naberezhnaya
ПОЧТАМТСКАЯ УЛИЦА 5 C2
НОВОАДМИРАЛТЕЙСКОГО КАНАЛА,
НАБЕР;ЕЖНАЯ 5 A2 Pochtamtskiy most
ПОЧТАМТСКИЙ МОСТ 5 C2
Novokamenyy most
НОВОКАМЕННЫЙ МОСТ 7 B5 Pochtamtskiy pereulok
ПОЧТАМТСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5 C2
O Podezdnoy pereulok
ПОДЪЕЗДНОЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6 F4
Obukhovskaya ploshchad
Podkovyrova, ulitsa
ОБУХОВСКАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 6 D4
ПОДКОВЫРОВА, УЛИЦА 1 C1
Obukhovskiy most ОБУХОВСКИЙ МОСТ 6 D4
Podolskaya ulitsa ПОДОЛЬСКАЯ УЛИЦА 6 E5
Obukhovskoy Oborony, prospekt
Podrezova, ulitsa ПОДРЕЗОВА, УЛИЦА 1 C1
ОБУХОВСКОЙ ОБОРОНЫ ПРОСПЕКТ 8 F4
Polozova, ulitsa ПОЛОЗОВА, УЛИЦА 1 C1
Obvodnovo Kanala, naberezhnaya
Poltavskaya ulitsa ПОЛТАВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 7 C3
ОБВОДНОГО КАНАЛА, НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 6 F5, 7 A5
Polyustrovskiy prospekt
Ochakovskaya ulitsa ОЧАКОВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 4 E4
ПОЛЮСТРОВСКИЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 4 F1
Odesskaya ulitsa ОДЕССКАЯ УЛИЦА 4 E4
Potseluev most ПОЦЕЛУЕВ МОСТ 5 B3
Ofitserskiy pereulok
Potemkinskaya ulitsa
ОФИЦЕРСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 1 A3
ПОТЕМКИНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 3 C4
Oranienbaumskaya ulitsa
Povarskoy pereulok
ОРАНИЕНБАУМСКАЯ УЛИЦА 1 B1
ПОВАРСКОЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7 B2
Ordinarnaya ulitsa ОРДИНАРНАЯ УЛИЦА 1 C1
Prachechnyy pereulok
Orenburgskaya ulitsa
ПРАЧЕЧНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5 C2
ОРЕНБУРГСКАЯ УЛИЦА 3 A2
Pravdy, ulitsa ПРАВДЫ, УЛИЦА 7 A3
Orlovskaya ulitsa ОРЛОВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 4 D3
Preobrazhenskaya ploshchad
Orlovskiy pereulok ПРЕОБРАЖЕНСКАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 3 B5
ОРЛОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7 C2
Predtechenskiy most
Ostrovskovo, ploshchad ПРЕДТЕЧЕНСКИЙ МОСТ 7 B5
ОСТРОВСКОГО, ПЛОЩАДЬ 6 F2
Professora Ivashentseva, ulitsa
Ozernyy pereulok ОЗЕРНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7 C1 ПРОФОССОРА ИВАШЕНЦЕВА, УЛИЦА 8 D3
Professora Kachalova, ulitsa
P ПРОФЕССОРА КАЧАЛОВА, УЛИЦА 8 F5
Palace Square 6 D1 Proletarskoy Diktatury, ulitsa
Panteleymonovskiy most ПРОЛЕТАРСКОЙ ДИКТАТУРЫ, УЛИЦА 4 E4
ПАНТЕЛЕЙМОНОВСКИЙ МОСТ 2 F5 Proletarskoy Diktatury, ploshchad
Paradnaya ulitsa ПАРАДНАЯ УЛИЦА 4 D5 ПРОЛЕТАРСКОЙ ДИКТАТУРЫ, ПЛОЩАДЬ 4 E4
Pavlogradskiy pereulok Pryadilnyy pereulok
ПАВЛОГРАДСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7 B5 ПРЯДИЛЬНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5 B5
Pskovskaya ulitsa ПСКОВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 5 A4 Shchepyanoy pereulok

Pudozhskaya ulitsa ПУДОЖСКАЯ УЛИЦА 1 B1 ЩЕПЯНОЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5 C4
Pushkinskaya ulitsa Shcherbakov pereulok
ПУШКИHСКАЯ УЛИЦА 7 B3 ЩЕРБАКОВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7 A2
Pushkarskiy pereulok Sheremetev Palace 7 A1
ПУШКАРСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2 D2 Shevchenko, ploshchad
Pushkin House-Museum 2 E5 ШЕВЧЕНКО, ПЛОЩАДЬ 5 B1
Shpalernaya ulitsa ШПАЛЕРНАЯ УЛИЦА 3 A4
R Shvedskiy pereulok
Radishcheva, ulitsa ШВЕДСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6 E1
РАДИЩЕВА, УЛИЦА 3 C5, 7 C1 Siniy most СИНИЙ МОСТ 6 D2
Railway Museum 6 D4 Sinopskaya naberezhnaya
Rastrelli, ploshchad СИНОПСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖHАЯ 4 F5, 8 E2
РАСТЕЛЛИ ПЛОЩАДЬ 4 E4 Smezhnyy most СМЕЖНHЙ МОСТ 5 C4
Razezzhaya ulitsa РАЗЪЕЗЖАЯ УЛИЦА 7 A3 Smolnaya naberezhnaya
Reki Fontanki, naberezhnaya СМОЛЬНАЯ НАБЕРЕЖHАЯ 4 E2
РЕКИ ФОНТАНКИ, НАБЕРЕЖHАЯ 2 F4, 5 A5, 7 A1 Smolnovo, alleya СМОЛЬНОГО, АЛЛЕЯ 4 F4
Reki Moyki, naberezhnaya Smolnovo, sad СМОЛЬНОГО САД 4 F4
РЕКИ МОЙКИ, НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 2 E5, 5 A3 Smolnovo, ulitsa СМОЛЬНОГО, УЛИЦА 4 F3
Reki Pryazhki, naberezhnaya Smolnyy Convent 4 F4
РЕКИ ПРЯЖКИ, НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 5 A3 Smolnyy Institute 4 F4
Rentgena, ulitsa РЕНТГЕНА, УЛИЦА 2 D1 Smolnyy proezd СМОЛЬНЫЙ ПРОЕЗД 4 F4
Repina, ploshchad РЕПИНА, ПЛОЩАДЬ 5 A4 Smolnyy prospekt
Repina, ulitsa РЕПИНА, УЛИЦА 1 B5 СМОЛЬНЫЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 4 F5
Revelskiy pereulok Solyanoy pereulok
РЕВЕЛСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5 B5 СОЛЯНОЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3 A4
Reznaya ulitsa РЕЗНАЯ УЛИЦА 1 A1 Sotsialisticheskaya ulitsa
Rimskovo-Korsakova, prospekt СОЦИАЛИСТИЧЕСКАЯ УЛИЦА 7 A4
РИМСКОГО-КОРСАКОВА, ПРОСПЕКТ 5 A4 Sovetskiy pereulok
Rimskiy-Korsakov Conservatory 5 B3 СОВЕТСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6 D5
Rizhskiy prospekt Soyuza Pechatnikov, ulitsa
РИЖСКИЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 5 A5 СОЮЗА ПЕЧАТНИКОВ, УЛИЦА 5 A4
Robespera, naberezhnaya Spasskiy pereulok
РОБЕСПЬЕРА, НАБЕРЕЖНАЯ 3 B4 СПAССКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6 D2
Romenskaya ulitsa РОМЕНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 7 B4 Sredniy prospekt СРЕДНИЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 1 A5
Ropshinskaya ulitsa Srednyaya Koltovskaya ulitsa
РОПШИНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 1 B2 СРЕДНЯЯ КОЛТОВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 1 A1
Rostral Columns 1 C5 Srednyaya Podyacheskaya ulitsa
Rubinshteyna, ulitsa СРЕДНЯЯ ПОДЬЯЧЕСКАЯ УЛИЦА 5 C3
РУБИНШТЕЙНА, УЛИЦА 7 A2 SS Peter and Paul Cathedral 2 D4
Russian Museum 6 F1 St Andrew’s Cathedral 1 A5
Ruzovskaya ulitsa РУЗОВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 6 E5 St Isaac’s Cathedral 5 C2
Rybatskaya ulitsa РЫБАЦКАЯ УЛИЦА 1 B2 St Isaac’s Square 5 C2
Ryleeva, ulitsa РЫЛЕЕВА, УЛИЦА 3 B5 St Nicholas’ Cathedral 5 C4
Starorusskaya ulitsa
S СТАРОРУССКАЯ УЛИЦА 8 D2
Sablinskaya ulitsa Stavropolskaya ulitsa
САБЛИНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 1 C2 СТАВРОПОЛЬСКАЯ УЛИЦА 4 E4
Sadovaya ulitsa САДОВАЯ УЛИЦА 2 F5, 5 A5 Stieglitz Museum 3 A5
Sakharnyy pereulok Stolyarnyy pereulok
САХАРНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 3 A1 СTOЛЯРНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6 D3
Sampsonievskiy most Strelninskaya ulitsa
САМПСОНИЕВСКИЙ МОСТ 2 F2 СТРЕЛЬНИНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 1 C2
Sapernyy pereulok Stremyannaya ulitsa СТРЕМЯННАЯ УЛИЦА 7 A2
САПЕРНЫЙ ПЛОЩАДЬ 3 B5 Stroganov Palace 6 E1
Saratovskaya ulitsa Summer Gardens 2 F4
САРАТОВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 3 A2 Summer Palace 2 F4
Semenovskiy most СЕМЕНОВСКАЯ МОСТ 6 E3 Suvorovskaya ploshchad
Sennaya ploshchad СЕННАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 6 D3 СУВОРОВСКАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 2 F4
Serpukhovskaya ulitsa Suvorovskiy prospekt
СЕРПУХОВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 6 E5 СУВОРОВСКИЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 4 D5, 7 C2
Sezdovskaya i 1-ya linii Svechnoy pereulok СВЕЧНОЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7 A3
СЪЕЗДОВСКАЯ И 1-Я ЛИНИИ 1 A4 Sverdlovskaya naberezhnaya
Sezzhinskaya ulitsa СВЕРДЛОВСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖHАЯ 4 D2
СЪЕЗЖИНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 1 B3 Sytninskaya ulitsa
Shamsheva, ulitsa ШАМШЕВА УЛИЦА 1 C2 СЫТНИНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 2 D2
Volynskiy pereulok
T ВОЛЫНСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6 E1
Tambovskaya ulitsa ТАМБОВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 7 B5
Voronezhskaya ulitsa
Tatarskiy pereulok
ВОРОНЕЖСКAЯ УЛИЦА 7 A5
ТАТАРСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 1 C3
Vorontsov Palace 6 F2
Tauride Palace 4 D4
Voskova, ulitsa ВОСКОВА, УЛИЦА 1 C2
Tavricheskaya ulitsa
ТАВРИЧЕСКАЯ УЛИЦА 4 D5 Vosstaniya, ploshchad
ВОССТАНИЯ, ПЛОЩАДЬ 7 C2
Tavricheskiy pereulok
ТАВРИЧЕСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 4 D4 Vosstaniya, ulitsa
Tavricheskiy sad ТАВРИЧЕСКИЙ САД 4 D4 ВОССТАНИЯ, УЛИЦА 3 C5, 7 C1
Teatralnaya ploshchad Voznesenskiy prospekt

ТЕАТРАЛЬНАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 5 B3 ВОЗНЕСЕНСКИЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 5 C4
Teatralnyy most Vvedenskaya ulitsa
ТЕАТРАЛЬНЫЙ МОСТ 2 F5 ВВЕДЕНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 1 C2
Telezhnaya ulitsa ТЕЛЕЖНАЯ УЛИЦА 8 D3 Vvedenskovo kanala, naberezhnaya
Tiflisskaya ulitsa ВВЕДЕНСКОГО КАНАЛА, НАБЕРЕЖHАЯ 6 E4
ТИФЛИССКАЯ УЛИЦА 1 C5 Vvedenskogo kanala ulitsa
Torgovyy pereulok ВBEДEHСКОГО КAHЛA УЛИЦА 6 F5
ТОРГОВЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 6 F3 Vyborgskaya ulitsa
Transportnyy pereulok ВЫБОРГСКАЯ УЛИЦА 3 A1
ТРАНСПОРТНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7 B4
Trinity Bridge 2 E4 W
Trinity Square Winter Palace 2 D5
ТРОИЦКАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 2 E3
Troitskiy most ТРОИЦКИЙ МОСТ 2 E4 Y
Troitskiy prospekt Yablochkova, ulitsa ЯБЛОЧКОВА, УЛИЦА 1 C3
ТРОИЦКИЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 5 C5 Yakobshtadtskiy pereulok
Trubetskoy Bastion 2 D4 ЯКОБШТАДТСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 5 C5
Truda, ploshchad ТРУДА, ПЛОЩАДЬ 5 B2 Yakubovicha, ulitsa
Truda, ulitsa ТРУДА, УЛИЦА 5 B2 ЯКУБОВИЧА, УЛИЦА 5 B2
Tsiolkovskovo, ulitsa Yaroslavskaya ulitsa
ЦИОЛКОВСКОГО, УЛИЦА 5 A5 ЯРОСЛАВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 4 E5
Tuchkov most ТУЧКОВ МОСТ 1 A4 Yefimova, ulitsa ЕФИМОВА, УЛИЦА 6 E3
Tuchkov pereulok ТУЧКОВ ПЕРЕУЛОК 1 A4 Yeliseev’s 6 F1
Tulskaya ulitsa ТУЛЬСКАЯ УЛИЦА 4 E5 Yusupov Palace 5 B3
Turgeneva, ploshchad Yusupovskiy sad ЮСУПОВСКИЙ САД 6 D3
ТУРГЕНЕВА ПЛОЩАДЬ 5 B4
Tverskaya ulitsa ТВЕРСКАЯ УЛИЦА 4 D4
Z
Twelve Colleges 1 C5
Zagorodnyy prospekt
Tyushina, ulitsa ТЮШИНА УЛИЦА 7 A5 ЗАГОРОДНЫЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 6 E4, 7 A3
Zakharevskaya ulitsa
U ЗАХАРЬЕВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 3 B4
Ulyany Gromovoy, pereulok
Zamkovaya ulitsa ЗАМКОВАЯ УЛИЦА 2 F5
УЛЬЯНЫ ГРОМОВОЙ, ПЕРЕУЛОК 7 C1
Zelenyy most ЗEPДEHЫЙ МОСТ 6 E1
Universitetskaya naberezhnaya
Zerkalnyy pereulok
УНИВЕРСИТЕТСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖHАЯ 1 C5, 5 B1
ЗЕРКАЛЬНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 8 F5
V Zhdanovskaya naberezhnaya
ЖДАНОВСКАЯ НАБЕРЕЖHАЯ 1 A2
Vatutina, ulitsa ВАТУТИНА, УЛИЦА 4 D1
Zhdanovskaya ulitsa
Vereyskaya ulitsa ВЕРЕЙСКАЯ УЛИЦА 6 E5
ЖДАНОВСКАЯ УЛИЦА 1 A2
Vitebskaya ulitsa ВИТЕБСКАЯ УЛИЦА 5 A4
Zhukova, ulitsa ЖУКОВА УЛИЦА 4 F1
Vilenskiy pereulok
ВИЛЕHCКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 2 C5 Zhukovskovo, ulitsa
ЖУКОВСКОГО, УЛИЦА 7 B1
Vladimirskaya ploshchad
ВЛАДИМИРСКАЯ ПЛОЩАДЬ 7 A3 Zodchevo Rossi, ulitsa
Vladimirskiy prospekt ЗОДЧЕГО РОССИ, УЛИЦА 6 F2
ВЛАДИМИРСКИЙ ПРОСПЕКТ 7 A2 Zoo 2 D3
Vodoprovodnyy pereulok Zoological Museum 1 C5
ВОДОПРОВОДНЫЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 4 D4 Zvenigorodskaya ulitsa
Volkhovskiy pereulok ЗВЕНИГОРОДСКАЯ УЛИЦА 6 F4, 7 A4
ВОЛХОВСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 1 B4 Zverinskaya ulitsa ЗВЕРИНСКАЯ УЛИЦА 1 B3
Volodi Yermaka, ulitsa
ВОЛОДИ ЕРМАКА, УЛИЦА 5 A4
Volokolamskiy pereulok
ВОЛОКОЛАМСКИЙ ПЕРЕУЛОК 7 A4
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246 G E N E R A L I N D E X
General Index
Page numbers in bold
d type refer to Alexandra, Tsarina (wife of Astoria Casino 205
main entries. Nicholas I) 150 Astoria Hotel 79, 169, 172, 174
Alexandria Park (Peterhof) 150 Aurora seee Cruiserr Aurora
A Alexandriinskiy Theatre 110, 203 Austeria 185
Abamelek-Lazarev, Prince 134 Alfabank 214 Austerlitz, Battle of (1805) 22
Abraham’s Sacrificee (Rembrandt) Altman, Nathan 43 Australian Embassy 211
86 Ambulances 212, 213 Austrian Airlines 220
Academic Capella 112, 203 Amenemhet III, Pharaoh 89 Autumn in St Petersburg 52
Academy of Arts 19, 40, 57, 63 Amenhotep III, Pharaoh 63 Avant-garde 29, 107
A
Academy of Sciences 25 American Express 214 Avtovo metro station 11
A
Street-by-Street map 58 Anabel 171
Academy of Sciences Library Ananov 199 B
Street-by-Street map 59 Andreevskiy Market 199 Bach, Robert
Adam, Yegor Andrey Vladimirovich, Grand Duke statue of Glinka 120
Bridge Passage 35 72 statue of Pushkin 155
Great Stables Bridge 134 Andropov, Yuri 30, 31 Bakhmatov, Ivan 164
Singers’ Bridge 37, 112 The Angel with the Golden Hair Bakst, Léon 26, 45, 107, 119
Adamini, Domenico 134 (icon) 106 Ballet 202, 203
Adamini House 134 Angelico, Fra 90 Ballet in St Petersburg 118
Addresses, writing 209 Angleterre Hotel 174 Ballets Russes 107, 118, 119
Admiralty 78 Street-by-Street map 77 dancers and choreographers 45
Street-by-Street map 77 Anglia 199 Imperial School of Ballet 45, 110
Admiralty (Tsarskoe Selo) 154 Anichkov, Lieutenant Colonel Matilda Kshesinskaya 72
Admiralty Garden 46 Mikhail 109 and “World of Art” movement 26
Admission charges 208 Anichkov Bridge 37 Baltic Airlines 211
Aeroflot Building 46 St Petersburg’s Best: Bridges and Baltic Star Hotel (Strelna) 177
Agate Rooms (Tsarskoe Selo) 154 Waterways 35 Baltic Station 229
Air travel 218–19, 220 statues 49 Balzac, Honoré de 94
travelling between Moscow and Anichkov Palace 49, 109, 110 Bank Bridge 37, 135
St Petersburg 219 Anikushin, Mikhail 101, 131 St Petersburg’s Best: Bridges and
Airports 218, 220 Anna Akhmatova Museum 41, 129 Waterways 35
Aivazovskiy, Ivan 106 Anna Ivanovna, Tsarina 19 Banking 214
Akademkniga 199 Anna Nova 199 Banknotes 215
Akhmatova, Anna 43, 44, 129 d’Anthès, Georges 83, 113 Baranovskiy, Gavriil 71, 109, 137
Anna Akhmatova Museum 41, 129 Antikvariat 199 Barbizon school 91
“The Bivouac of the Comedians” Antique Centre 199 Barclay de Tolly, Mikhail
134 Antiques statue of 111
portrait by Nathan Altman 43 export permissions 194–5 Bargaining 194
Albina 193 shops 198, 199 Barge-Haulers
- on the Volga (Repin)
Alcohol 182–3 Apartments, renting 171 105
Aleksandrovskiy Park 70 Apothecary’s Island 136 Bars 192, 193
Aleksey, Tsar 17 Apraksin family 111 music 204, 205
Aleksey, Tsarevich 66, 69 Apraksin Market 111, 199 opening times 179
Alexander I, Tsar 23 Apsheron 188 Bashnya (Peterhof) 193
Alexander Column 83 Apyshkov, Vladimir 136 Basquiat, Jean-Michel 94
Alexander Palace (Tsarskoe Selo) Aquarel 185 Batignol 138
155 Arakcheev, Count Aleksey 135 Bazaars 195, 199
and Carlo Rossi 110 Arbat Nord Hotel 175 Bazhenov, Vasiliy 101
Gonzaga Cameo 88 Archbishop’s Court (Novgorod) 162 Beauharnais, Josephine 88
Kamennoostrovskiy Palace 136 Architecture Bed and breakfast 170
Lycée (Tsarskoe Selo) 155 Style Moderne 65, 71 Bednbreakfast 171
Napoleonic Wars 22 Archives of the War Ministry Beer 183
Yelagin Island 126 Street-by-Street map 66 Beethoven, Ludwig van 101
Alexander II, Tsar Arctica 205 Behrens, Peter 76, 79
assassination 26, 92, 100, 134 Argunov, Fyodor 129 Bellevue 18
assassination attempt 135 Argus 193 Beloselskiy-Belozerskiy Palace 49,
Church on Spilled Blood 100 Aristov, Leonid 82 203
Edict of Emancipation 23 Armenian Church 48, 108 Bely, Andrei 44
tomb of 68–9 Ars Magna 199 Benois, Alexandre 117
Winter Palace 93 Art Ballets Russes 119
Alexander III, Tsar 26 artists 45 “World of Art” movement 26, 45,
Anichkov Palace 109 export permissions 194–5 107
Church on Spilled Blood 100 Russian icon painting 165 Benois, Leontiy 104, 112
Fabergé Easter eggs 82 shops 198, 199 Benois House
Gatchina 147 see also Museums and galleries Street-by-Street map 117
Russian Museum 104 Art and café clubs 204 Beresta Palace Hotel (Novgorod)
statue of 94 Art Nouveau see Style Moderne 177
Alexander (accommodation Artillery Museum 41, 70 Bergholts, Olga 126
agency) 171 Artists 45 Bernini, Gian Lorenzo 47
Alexander Column 83 Arts Square 101 Bessel and Co 49
Alexander House Club 175 Street-by-Street map 98–9 Bird statue (Gabriadze) 99
Alexander Nevsky Bridge 37 Asia (café) 193 “The Bivouac of the Comedians”
Alexander Nevsky Monastery 11, Assignment Bank 135 134
130–31 Association of Travelling Art Blank, Ivan 151
Alexander Palace (Tsarskoe Selo) 155 Exhibitions 106 Der Blaue Reiter 107
G E N E R A L I N D E X 247
Blinnyy domik 187 Budget hotels 170 Catherine II (the Great) (cont.)
Blok, Aleksandr 44, 134 Bufet 189 Alexander Palace (Tsarskoe Selo)
“Bloody Sunday” (1905) 26, 73, 83, Bulochnaya 193 155
138 Buses 224–5 Anichkov Palace 109
Blue Crestt (Kandinsky) 39 Bush, George 30 Bronze Horseman (Falconet)
Boat House Bush, John 154 78–9
Street-by-Street map 67 Byron, Lord 113 Cabin of Peter the Great 73, 139
Boats Chesma Palace 130
boat trips 36 C The Enlightened Empress 24–5
canal and river cruises 226–7 Cabaret (A
( .K.A. Matrosskaya Gatchina 147
Cruiser Aurora 11, 41, 73, 139 Tishina) 205 Griboedev Canal 36
ferries and cruises 220 Cabin of Peter the Great 41, 73, Hermitage 84–7, 88, 91
hydrofoils 229 138–9 Marble Palace 94
Naval Museum 59, 60 Café de Clie 193 Monplaisir (Peterhof) 150
water taxis 227 Café Max 217 monument to 110
Bogolyubov, Veniamin 116 Cafés Oranienbaum 146
Bogolyubskiy, Prince Andrey 163 internet cafés 217 Pavlovsk 158, 160, 161
Bolshaya Morskaya ulitsa 122 light meals and snacks 192–3 Peterhof 149
Bolshaya Zelinina ulitsa, No. 28 71 opening times 179 Smolnyy Convent 128
Bolsheviks Cameron, Charles statue of 49
Finland Station 126 Chinese Village (Tsarskoe Selo) Summer Garden 95
Kshesinskaya Mansion 72 154 Tauride Palace 128
Russian Revolution 26, 27 Pavlovsk 25, 158–9, 160 Tsarskoe Selo 143, 152, 154
Smolnyy Institute 128 Tsarskoe Selo 152, 153, 154 Voltaire’s library 110
“Bolshoi Dom” 139 Cameron Gallery (Tsarskoe Selo) 154 Catherine Palace seee Tsarskoe Selo
Bolshoy Drama Theatre (BDT) 203 Camping 171 Catherine Park (Tsarskoe Selo) 154
Bolshoy Prospekt (Vasilevskiy Canadian Embassy 211 Caucasian food 181, 193
Island) 62 Canals 34–7 Caviar Bar and Restaurant 188
Bonazza, Giovanni 151 cruises 226–7 Caviar shops 198
Book shops 198, 199 St Petersburg’s Best: Bridges and Celebrated St Petersburgers 42–5
Bookvoed 199 Waterways 34–5 Cemeteries
Borey 199 A Walk along St Petersburg’s Lazarus Cemetery 131
Boris Godunov, Tsar 17 Waterways 134–5 Piskarevskoe Memorial Cemetery
Borodin, Aleksandr 44 Canova, Antonio 90 126
Borodino, Battle of (1812) 23 Canvas 18 Tikhvin Cemetery 131
Botanical Gardens 136 Caravaggio Central Air Communication Agency
Boucher, François 90 A Young Man Playing a Lute 90 220
Brandy 183 Caravan 188 Central Asian food 181
Braunstein, Johann 150 Cars Central District Tax Office 49
Brenna, Vincenzo chastnikii 227 Central Park of Culture and Rest 126
Gatchina 147 driving in St Petersburg 229 Central Theatre Ticket Office 201
Mikhaylovskiy Castle 101 hiring 229 Central Train Ticket Office 220
Pavlovsk 158, 159, 160, 161 Casa Leto 174 Ceramics shops 199
Brest-Litovsk, Treaty of (1917) 29 Cash dispensers 214 Cézanne, Paul 91, 107
Brezhnev, Leonid 30, 53 Casinos 204, 205 Chabrol, Vincent 35
Bridge Passage Castle, Mikhaylovskiy 97, 99, 101 Chaev, Sergey 136
St Petersburg’s Best: Bridges and Cathedrals Chagall, Marc 45, 107
Waterways 35 Cathedral of Our Lady of Kazan The Circuss 45
Bridges 34–7 33, 47, 111, 135, 203 Chagin, Vladimir 137
Lieutenant Shmidt Bridge 34, 63 Cathedral of SS Peter and Paul Chaliapin (Repino) 191
opening times 209 19, 41, 65, 67, 68–9, 138 Chalyapin, Fyodor 70, 146
St Petersburg’s Best: Bridges and Cathedral of St Sophia Chamber of Facets (Novgorod) 162,
Waterways 34–5 (Novgorod) 143, 162, 163 163
British Airways 220 Cathedral of the Transfiguration Chardin, Jean-Baptiste
British-American Family Practice 127, 203 Still Life with the Attributes of the
213 Holy Trinity Cathedral 130, 203 Artss 91
Brodsky, Joseph 44 St Andrew’s Cathedral 63 Charles XII, King of Sweden 18, 21,
Bronze Horseman (Falconet) 10, St Isaac’s Cathedral 10, 11, 23, 75, 68
75, 78–9
8 76, 80–81, 139 Chastnikii 227
Street-by-Street map 76 St Nicholas’ Cathedral 115, 117, Chaynaya Khizhina 193
The Bronze Horseman (Pushkin) 120 Che 205
37, 69, 78 St Nicholas’ Cathedral CHEKAKA 29
Brothers Karamazov Hotel 175 (Novgorod) 163 Chekhov, Anton 110
Brullo, Nikolay 122 Smolnyy Cathedral 203 Chemiakin, Mikhail 67
Bryullov, Aleksandr Smolnyy Convent 128 Cherepanov family 123
Guards Headquarters 83 Znamenskiy Cathedral Chernenko, Konstantin 30, 31
Lieutenant Shmidt Bridge 34, 63 (Novgorod) 164 Chesma Church 130
Lutheran Church 112 see also Churches Chesma Column (Tsarskoe Selo)
Marble Palace 94 Catherine I, Tsarina 19, 21 154
St Isaac’s Cathedral 80 and Prince Menshikov 62 Chesma Palace 130
Winter Palace 93 St Andrew’s Cathedral 63 Chevakinskiy, Savva
Bryullov, Karl 45, 163 Summer Palace 95 New Holland 121
The Last Day of Pompeii 105, 106 Tsarskoe Selo 152 St Nicholas’ Cathedral 120
Virgin in Majestyy 81 Catherine II (the Great) 19, 22, 93, Sheremetev Palace 129
Buddhist Temple 137 108 Tsarskoe Selo 153
Children 211 Commission Shop 199 Defenders of the Motherland Day

entertainment 201 Communications 216–17 53
in hotels 169 Communism Degas, Edgar 91
in restaurants 179 Russian Revolution 28–9 Delacroix, Eugène 91
Chinese Palace (Oranienbaum) 143, Concerts 202, 203 Delta Airlines 220
144, 146 Conservatory Opera and Ballet Delvig (Tsarskoe Selo) 193
Chinese Village (Tsarskoe Selo) Theatre 203 Demertsov, Fyodor 135
154 Constantine, Grand Duke 23 Demidoff 190
Chintamani 184 Constitution Day 53 Demidov, Pyotr 122
Chocolate Museum 199 Consulates 210, 211 Demut-Malinovskiy, Vasiliy 83, 105
Choral Synagogue 121 Convent, Smolnyy 128 Demyanova Ukha 184
Choreographers 45, 118 Conversion table 211 Denisov-Nikolaev Confectionery
Christ in Majestyy (Klodt) 80 Corinthia Nevskij Palace 169, 176 193
Christmas 53 Corot, Camille 91 Dental Palace 213
Christopher Columbus 18 Corps des Pages 111 Department stores 195, 199
Churches (general) Cosmonauts’ Day 50 Detinets (Novgorod) 191
music 202, 203 Cosmos 211 DHL International Centre 217
visiting 208–9 Cossacks 28 Diaghilev, Sergey 43, 45
Churches (individual) Cottage Palace (Peterhof) 150 Ballets Russes 118, 119
Armenian Church 48, 108 Count Suvoroff 188 Tauride Palace 128
Chesma Church 130 Country estates “World of Art” movement 26, 45,
Church of the Annunciation 130 Gatchina 147 107
Church of the Holy Women Oranienbaum 146–7 Dialling codes 216
(Novgorod) 163 Pavlovsk 158–61 Diderot, Denis 24, 79, 91
Church of Saint Catherine 48 Peterhof 148–51 Disabled travellers 210, 211
Church of St John the Baptist 136 Tsarskoe Selo 152–5 in hotels 169
Church of St Procopius Courier services 217 in restaurants 179
(Novgorod) 163 Cox, James 85 Discos 204, 205
Church of the Saviour of the Craft shops 198 Doctors 213
Transfiguration (Novgorod) 164 Cranach, Lucas the Elder Dolgorukov family 136
Church of the Sign (Tsarskoe Venus and Cupid d 90 Dolgorukov Mansion 136
Selo) 155 Creaking Pavilion (Tsarskoe Selo) Dolphinarium 201
Church on Spilled Blood 10, 98, 154 Dom Kino 203
100, 102–3, 134 Credit cards 209, 214 Dom knigi 199
Church of Theodore Stratilates in hotels 168 Dom Kochnevoy 203
(Novgorod) 164 in restaurants 178 Donskoy, Prince Dmitriy 17
Church of the Three Saints 63 in shops 194 Dostoevsky, Fyodor 43, 123
Dutch Church 47, 135 Credit Lyonnaise 214 Crime and Punishmentt 43, 44,
Lutheran Church 47, 112 Crime 212 123
St Paraskeva Pyatnitsa Crimean War (1853–6) 23 Dostoevsky House-Museum 41,
(Novgorod) 163 Cruiser Aurora 11, 73 130
see also Cathedrals Russian Revolution 29, 41, 139 imprisonment 69
Cinema 203 A 90-Minute Walk Along the Kaznachevskaya ulitsa apartment
Festival of Festivals 51 Embankment 138, 139 135
film directors 45 Cruises 220, 226 Literary Café 83
Leningrad Film Studios 45, 70 Crystal Palace (cinema) 203 Malaya Morskaya ulitsa 82
shops 198 Cuban missile crisis (1962) 30 Mikhaylovskiy Castle 101
Ciniselli, Giuseppe 201 Currency 215 tomb of 11, 131
Circus 11, 201 Currency exchange 214 Dostoevsky House-Museum 41,
Street-by-Street map 99 Customs and immigration 210 130
The Circuss (Chagall) 45 The Cyclistt (Goncharova) 40, 107 Dresdner Bank 214
Citibank 214 Cyril, St 17, 209 Drinks 182–3
City Day 50 Cyrillic language 209 Duma Tower 48
City Excursion Bureau of St Czardas 184 Duncan, Isadora 79
Petersburg 226 Dutch Church 47, 135
City Realty 171 D DVD shops 199
Civil War (1918–20) 27, 29 Da Albertone 185 Dve palochki 193
Classical music 202, 203 Dachass 50, 51 D.V.K. (Dom voyennoy knigi) 199
Claude Lorrain 90 renting 171
Climate 50–53 Dance seee Ballet E
Clinic Complex 213 La Dansee (Matisse) 87 E-mail services 217
Clothes Dante Alighieri 113 Ea Haere Ia Oee (Gauguin) 87, 91
in restaurants 179 Danzas, Konstantin 83 Easter Sunday 50, 53
shops 198, 199 Dashkova, Princess Yekaterina 110 Eastern food 193
visiting churches 208 Datscha 205 Edict of Emancipation (1861) 23
Clubs 204, 205 Davydov, Ivan 151 Egyptian Bridge 37
Coach Station 229 Dawe, George 92 St Petersburg’s Best: Bridges and
Coach travel 220 Day of National Unity 52 Waterways 34
Cocteau, Jean 43 “Death Gate” 69 Electrical appliances 211
Coffee 193 Decembrist Rebellion (1825) 23, Eliseev Palace Hotel 174
Coins 215 111 Elizabeth, Tsarina 19
Cold War 27, 30 Commandants’ House 69 Anichkov Palace 49, 109
Comfort Hotel 174 Decembrists’ Square 78 Cathedral of the Transfiguration
Commandant’s House 41, 69 Decembrists’ Square 10, 78 127
Street-by-Street map 66 Street-by-Street map 76 death 22
Elizabeth, Tsarina (cont.) Finland, Gulf of (cont.) Gogol, Nikolai (cont.)

Peterhof 148, 150 hydrofoils 229 Alexandriinskiy Theatre 110
Smolnyy Convent 128 travelling to 229 Malaya Morskaya ulitsa 82
Tsarskoe Selo 143, 152, 154 Finland Station 126, 139, 220, 229 Nevskiy prospekt 108
Winter Palace 92 Finnair 220 Pushkin’s Dacha (Tsarskoe Selo)
Elizabeth, Tsarina (wife of Finnord 220 155
Alexander I) 159 Fire services 212, 213 Zverkov House 135
Embassies 210, 211 Fish Fabrique 205 Golden Garden 205
Emergency services 213 Flats, renting 171 Golden Kovsh (Novgorod) 193
Engineers’ Castle seee Mikhaylovskiy Floods 37, 69 Golovin, Aleksandr 119
Castle The Bronze Horseman (Pushkin) Goncharova, Natalya (painter) 107
Engineer’s House 41, 67, 68 78 The Cyclistt 40, 107
English Quay 121 Fokine, Michel 45 Goncharova, Natalya (Pushkin’s
Enlightenment 24–5 Ballet in St Petersburg 118 wife) 83, 113, 155
Entertainment 200–205 Ballets Russes 119 Gorbachev, Mikhail 30, 31
ballet 202, 203 house on Theatre Square 117 Gorky, Maxim 146
buying tickets 200 Folk music 202, 203 Gostinyy Dvor 15, 48, 97–113
children’s entertainment 201 Follenveider’s mansion 137 area map 97
church music 202, 203 Fomin, Ivan 134, 137 Arts Square 98–9
cinema 203 Fontana, Giovanni-Maria 62, 146 Church on Spilled Blood 100
circus 201 Fontana, Ludwig 98, 101 Gostinyy Dvor 108–9
classical music 202, 203 Fontanka River 36, 125 hotels 175
festivals 50–53 Food and drink restaurants 187–8
folk music 202, 203 The Flavours of St Petersburg Russian Museum 104–7
information 200 180–81 Gostinyy dvor (department store)
late night transport 201 health precautions 213 199
live music and nightlife 204–5 light meals and snacks 192–3 Grand Ducal Mausoleum 69
Mariinskiy Theatre 202, 203 shops 199 Street-by-Street map 67
opera 202, 203 What to Drink in St Petersburg Grand Hotel Emerald 176
street music 202, 203 182–3 Grand Hotel Europe 101, 168-9,
theatre 202–3 see also Restaurants 173, 175
websites 201 Former Ministry of State Property Street-by-Street map 98
White Nights festivals 51, 201 Street-by-Street map 77 Great Caprice (Tsarskoe Selo) 154
Eridan Travel Company 171 Fountains, Peterhof 151 Great Hall of the Philharmonia 43,
Erivan 187 Fragonard, Jean Honoré 90 101, 203
Est 193 Franchioli, Enrico 119 Great Northern War 18, 21, 65
Eternal Flame 94 Friedrich, Caspar David 91 Great Palace (Peterhof) 148–9
Ethnic food 192 Friedrich Wilhelm I, King of Prussia Great Pond (Tsarskoe Selo) 154
Etiquette 209 153 Great Purges 27, 72
Eurasia (sushi bar) 193 Fur shops 198, 199 Great Stables Bridge 134
Euromed 213 Futurism 107 El Greco 90
Europcar 229 Green Bridge 135
L’Europe (restaurant) 188 G Green Crest 193
Excursions 208 Gabriadze, Rezo Greshniki 205
Export permissions Bird statue 99 Greuze, Jean-Baptiste 91
art and antiques 194–5 Gagarin, Yuriy 30 Griboedov, Aleksander 47
Gagarina, Princess 122 Griboedov (nightclub) 205
F Galleries seee Museums and galleries Griboedov Canal 36, 47, 133
Fabergé 82 Gardens seee Parks and gardens A Walk along St Petersburg’s
Fabergé, Agathon 82 Gastronom 18 Waterways 134–5
Fabergé, Carl 82 Gatchina 143, 147 Grigoriev, Boris
Fabergé, Gustav 82 travelling to 228 Portrait of the Director Vsevolod
Fairytale Puppet Theatre 201 Gaudì, Antonio 71 Meyerhold d 107
Falconet, Etienne-Maurice 91 Gauguin, Paul 91 Grotto (Tsarskoe Selo) 154
Bronze Horseman 10, 22, 75, 76, Ea Haere Ia Oee 87, 91 Guided tours 211
78–9 Gausvald, Yevgeniya 137 Guslistiy, Boris 122
Families, staying with 170–71 Gaveman, Adolph 62 Gypsies 212
Fashion House 47, 135 Gay clubs 204, 205
Fashion shops 198, 199 Ge, Nikolay 107 H
Faskhoutdinov, Emil 45 Geisler, Mikhail 122 Hannibal, Abram 113
Fasol 187 Gelios Hotel (Zelenogorsk) 177 Hanska, Countess Eveline 94
Fast food 192, 193 General Staff Building 135 Hat Shop 199
Faxes 217 German Club 176 Havanna 205
Fedex 217 GEZ-21 205 Health care 212, 213
Ferries 220 Giordano, Luca 90 Heine, Heinrich 113
Festival of Festivals 51 Giorgione 90 Hermann, Josef 80
Festivals 50–53 Girl with a Pitcherr (Sokolov) 154 Hermitage 10, 40, 84–93
White Nights festivals 51, 201 Glasnostt (openness) 30 Classical art 88
Field of Mars 11, 94 Glinka, Mikhail 44, 46 Flemish, Dutch and German art
Fifth Corner Business Hotel 175 Academic Capella 112 90
Filippov Hotels 171 portrait by Repin 44 floorplan 86–7
Film seee Cinema statue of 120 French and English art 90–91
Filonov, Pavel 45 tomb of 131 Italian and Spanish art 90
Finland, Gulf of 143, 144 Gogen, Aleksander von 71, 72 19th and 20th century art 91
cruises 226 Gogol, Nikolai 42, 44, 46 Oriental art 88–9
Hermitage (cont.) Internet (cont.) Klodt, Pyotr

prehistoric art 88 internet cafés 217 Anchikov Bridge statues 35, 49
Russian art 89 restaurant websites 179 Christ in Majestyy 80
St Petersburg’s Best: Palaces and Irish Embassy 211 monument to Nicholas I 77, 79
Museums 38 Isaac of Dalmatia, St 76 statue of Ivan Krylov 95
Visitors’ Checklist 85 Isayeva, Vera 126 tomb of 131
Winter Palace 10, 92–3 Ivan I, Tsar 17 Kneller, Sir Godfrey 91
Hermitage (Peterhof) 150 Ivan III, Tsar 17, 162, 163 Knight at the Crossroads
Hermitage (restaurant) 18 Ivan IV the Terrible, Tsar 17, 19, (Vasnetsov) 106, 107
Hermitage (Tsarskoe Selo) 154 162 Knights of St John 161
Hermitage Theatre 34, 203 Ivan V, Tsar 18, 20 Knowledge Day 52
Hertz 229 Ivan VI, Tsar 69 Kokorinov, Aleksandr 63
Hiring cars 229 Ivan Gate 68 Kolkhida 190
History 17–31 Street-by-Street map 67 Kolokolnikov, Fedot 120
Hitler, Adolf 79 Ivanov, Victor Kolokolnikov, Menas 120
HOFAFA Host Families Association 171 Lenin, Leader of the People 28 Korean War (1950–54) 30
Holidays, public 53 Kotzebue, Alexander von
Holy Trinity Cathedral 130, 203 J Peter the Great instructing his
L’Homme aux Bras Croisés Jacot, Paul 47, 101, 135 workers 17
(Picasso) 91 Jakata 205 Kozintsev, Grigoriy 42, 45, 70
Horseguards’ Manège 79 Jazz 51, 204, 205 Kozlovskiy, Mikhail 151
Street-by-Street map 76 Jazz Philharmonic 205 Kramskoy, Ivan 106, 131
Hospitals 213 Jews Kremlin (Novgorod) 143, 162–3
Hostel All Seasons 171 Choral Synagogue 121 Krestovka River 136
Hostel “5 Minutes to the Hermitage” JFC Jazz Club 205 Krestovskiy Island 136, 137
171 Jili-bili 193 Krestovskiy sad 191
Hostels 170, 171 Jimi Hendrix Blues Club 205 Krokodil 10, 18
Hotel Dostoevsky 173, 176 Kronstadt mutiny (1921) 27
Hotels 168–77 K Kronverk Hotel 177
budget hotels 170 Kabakov, Ilya 94 Kropotkin, Prince Pyotr 69
children in 169 Kailas 199 Krupskaya Fabrika 199
disabled travellers 169 Kalinka-Malinka 187 Krylov, Ivan
facilities 168 Kamennoostrovskiy Palace 136 statue of 95
Gostinyy Dvor 175 Kamennoostrovskiy Prospekt 70 tomb of 131
hidden extras 169 A 90-Minute Walk Along the Kryukov Canal 36
hostels 170, 171 Embankment 138 Kshesinskaya, Matilda 45, 72
how to book 168 Style-Moderne architecture 71 ballet shoes 118
mini-hotels 170, 171 Kamennoostrovskiy Theatre 136 The English Quay 121
Palace Embankment 174–5 Kamennyy Island Kshesinskaya Mansion 72, 138
Popular hotels in St Petersburg A Walk around Kamennyy and Kshesinskaya Mansion 71, 72, 138
172–3 Yelagin Islands 136–7 St Petersburg’s Best: Palaces and
prices 168–9 Kamenskiy, Valentin 131 Museums 39
security 169 Kandinsky, Vasily 107 Kunstkammer 11, 41, 60–61
Sennaya Ploshchad 175 Blue Crestt 39 Street-by-Street map 58
Vasilevskiy Island 174 Karl & Friedrich 190 Kutuzov, Field Marshal Mikhail
where to look 168 Karsavina, Tamara 119 defeats Napoleon 23, 111
Hotels on Nevsky 171 Kavkaz-Bar 188 statue of 111
Houdon, Jean-Antoine 91 Kavos, Albert tomb of 111
statue of Voltaire 87 Bolshaya Morskaya ulitsa Kuznechnyy Market 199
House of Fabergé 82 mansion 122 Kvass 183
Hydrofoils 229 Kamennoostrovskiy Theatre 136
Main Post Office 122 L
I Mariinskiy Theatre 119 Labour Day 50, 53
Iconostasis 165 Mussorgsky Theatre of Opera Lacquered artifacts 197
Icons 106 and Ballet 101 Ladoga, Lake 143
Russian icon painting 165 Kazan Cathedral seee Cathedral of Ladozhskiy Station 220
Idealnaya Chashka 193 Our Lady of Kazan Lagidze 189
Idiot 193 Kelch 82 Laika 30
Ilyin, Lev 99 Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 175 Lampi, Johann 160
Imbir 189 Kerensky, Aleksandr 29, 147 Landé, Jean-Baptiste 110, 118
Imperator 184 Ket u Mimino 187 Language 209
Imperial Ballet School 45, 110, 118 Ketino 184 Lantern Bridge 37
Imperial Porcelain Factory 25, 199 Khrushchev, Nikita 30 Large Hermitage 84
Imperial Stables 113, 134 Kiev 17 Large Puppet Theatre 201
Ingal, Vladimir 116 Kiprenskiy, Orest 45 Larionov, Mikhail 107
Insect repellents 213 Kirov, Sergey 70 The Last Day of Pompeiii (Bryullov)
Institute of Russian Literature assassination 27, 41, 72, 128–9 105, 106
Street-by-Street map 59 Kirov Museum 11, 41, 72 Lavka Smirdina 193
Insurance 212 Kirov Ballet seee Mariinskiy Ballet Layma 193
International Clinic 213 Kirov Museum 11, 41, 72 Lazarev, Ioakim 108
International Protection of Children Kirov Stadium 137 Lazarus Cemetery 131
Day 51 Kirov Theatre seee Mariinskiy Le Blond, Jean Baptiste
International Women’s Day 50, 53 Theatre Fountains at Peterhof 151
Internet Klenze, Leo von 84 Great Palace (Peterhof) 148, 149
entertainments websites 201 KLM 220 Peterhof Park 150
Le Nain, Louis 90 Lutheran Church 47, 112 Mariinskiy Palace 79

Ledovyy dvorets 205 Lvov, Nikolay 122 Street-by-Street map 77
Lemaire, François 80 Lvov, Prince 29 Mariinskiy Theatre 119, 202, 203
Lena 199 Lyalevich, Marian 47 Street-by-Street map 116
Lenin, Vladimir 61, 94 Lycée (Tsarskoe Selo) 41, 155 Marionette Puppet Theatre 201
armoured car 70 Maritime Passenger Terminal 220
Finland Station 126, 139 M Maritime Victory Park 137
Kshesinskaya Mansion 72, 138 Mafia 212 Markets 195, 199
New Economic Policy 27 Magazines 217 Apraksin Market 111, 199
portrait of 28 entertainments listings 200 Nicholas Market 117
Russian Revolution 28–9, 83 Magrib 193 Round Market 134
Smolnyy Institute 128, 129 Main Post Office 122, 217 Souvenir Market 11
statue of 126, 129, 139 Malaya Morskaya ulitsa 82 Marly Palace (Peterhof) 150
What is to be Done?? 26 Malevich, Kazimir 45 The Marriage of Emperor
Lenin, Leader of the People (Ivanov) Russian Museum 107 Constantine (Rubens) 93
28 State Institute of Artistic Culture Martini, Simone 90
Leningrad Film Studios (Lenfilm) 79 Martos, Ivan 151, 153
45, 70 Supremus No. 56 6 29 Master of Flemalle 90
Lenin’s Mating Call 11, 188 Malyshev, Ignatiy 100 Matisov Domik Hotel 177
Leonardo da Vinci Mama Roma 187 Matisse, Henri 91, 107
The Litta Madonna 86, 90 Mamontov, Savva 107 La Dansee 87
Lermontov, Mikhail 46, 83 Manchurian Lions 138, 139 Matrosskaya Tishina 190
Levinson, Yevgeniy 126 Manhattan 205 Mattarnoviy, Georg 60
Levitan, Isaak 107 Maps Matveev, Andrey 106
Levitskiy, Dmitriy 45, 163 Arts Square 98–9 Matveev, Fyodor 106
Portrait of E I Nelidova 106 Celebrated St Petersburgers 42–3 MDT Theatre of Europe 203
Libraries Further afield 125 A Meal in the Monasteryy (Perov)
Academy of Sciences Library 59 Gostinyy Dvor 97 104
Pushkin House-Museum 113 metro 223 Medical treatment 212, 213
Russian National Library 48, 110 Nevskiy Prospekt 46–9 Megafon 217
Lichtenstein, Roy 94 Palace Embankment 75 Meltzer, Roman 93, 137
Lidval 193 Peter and Paul Fortress 66–7 Mendeleev, Dmitriy 45, 61
Lidval, Fyodor Peter the Great’s new city 20–21 Menelaws, Adam 150
Astoria Hotel 79 Petrogradskaya 65 Menshikov, Prince Alexander 21, 62
Grand Hotel Europe 101 Popular hotels in St Petersburg Bolshoy Prospekt 62
Kamennoostrovskiy prospekt 172–3 Menshikov Palace 38, 40, 62
house 70, 71 Russian Federation 12–13 Oranienbaum 146, 147
Lieutenant Shmidt Bridge 37, 63 St Isaac’s Square 76–7 Twelve Colleges 61
St Petersburg’s Best: Bridges and St Petersburg 14–15 Menshikov Palace 40, 62
Waterways 34 St Petersburg and environs 13 St Petersburg’s Best: Palaces and
Life Guards’ Mounted Regiment 79 A 90-Minute Walk Along the Museums 38
Lion Bridge 37 Embankment 138–9 Menus 178
St Petersburg’s Best: Bridges and St Petersburg’s Best: Bridges and Messmacher, Maximilian
Waterways 34 Waterways 34–5 Bolshaya Morskaya ulitsa
Street-by-Street map 117 St Petersburg’s Best: Palaces and mansion 122
Lissitskiy, El 107 Museums 38–9 Stieglitz Museum 39, 127
Liszt, Franz 129 St Petersburg’s surroundings 144–5 Methodius, St 17, 209
Literary Café 46, 83, 187 Sennaya Ploshchad 115 Metro 222–3
A Walk along St Petersburg’s Street Finder 230–47 Metro (disco) 205
Waterways 135 Strelka 58–9 Meyerhold, Vsevolod 110, 134
Liteynyy Bridge 37 Theatre Square 116–17 portrait of 107
The Litta Madonna (Leonardo da Tikhvin Cemetery 131 Mezentseva, Galina 45
Vinci) 86 Tsarskoe Selo park 155 Michelangelo 90
Little Stable Bridge 134 Vasilevskiy Island 57 Michetti, Niccolò 150
Liverpool 205 A Walk along St Petersburg’s Mikeshin, Mikhail 110, 163
LIVIZ 199 Waterways 134–5 Mikhail I, Tsar 17, 163
Locke, John 91 A Walk around Kamennyy and Mikhail Aleksandrovich, Grand
Lomonosov seee Oranienbaum Yelagin Islands 136–7 Duke 94
Lomonosov, Mikhail 45 Walks in St Petersburg 133 Mikhail Pavlovich, Grand Duke 104
grave of 131 wine regions 183 Mikhaylov, Andrey 120
Lomonosov Monument 58, 61 Marble Bridge (Tsarskoe Selo) 154 Mikhaylovskiy Castle 40, 97, 101
Oranienbaum 147 Marble Palace 40, 94 Street-by-Street map 99
statues of 25, 61 Maria, Grand Duchess (daughter of Mikhaylovskiy Palace
Lomonosov Bridge 37 Nicholas I) 77 Russian Museum 104
St Petersburg’s Best: Bridges and Maria Alexandrovna, Tsarina 119 St Petersburg’s Best: Palaces and
Waterways 35 Maria Fyodorovna, Tsarina 161 Museums 39
Lomonosov Monument 58, 61 Anichkov Palace 109 Street-by-Street map 98
Louis XV
X I, King of France 160 Fabergé eggs 82 Military Medical Academy 139
Lower and Upper Baths (Tsarskoe Pavlovsk 143, 158, 159, 160, 161 Millennium Monument (Novgorod)
Selo) 154 Yelagin Island 126 163
Lucchini, Giovanni 60 Maria Pavlovna, Grand Duchess 94 Millionaires’ Street 94
Ludwig, Peter and Irene 94 Marie Antoinette, Queen of France Miloslavskiy family 18
Lufthansa 220 161 Mini-hotels 170, 171
Lumière brothers 70 Mariinskiy (Kirov) Ballet Company Minibuses 224–5
Luna 193 45, 118 Ministry of Culture 194
Mint Museums and galleries (individual) Napoleon I, Emperor (cont.)

Street-by-Street map 66 (cont.) invasion of Russia 22, 23
Mir Hotel 176 Mikhaylovskiy Castle 99 Kamennoostrovskiy Palace 136
MIRR Travel Company 171, 226 Museum of Anthropology and Napoleonic Wars 22
Mirage Cinema 203 Ethnography 41, 61 Narodniki 23
Mobile phones 217 Museum of History, Architecture Naryshkin Bastion
Molodyozhnyy Theatre 203 and Art (Novgorod) 163 Street-by-Street map 66
Le Mon 191 Museum of Hygiene 99 Naryshkin family 18
Monasteries Museum of Musical Life 41, 129 Natali Hotel (Pushkin) 177
Alexander Nevsky Monastery 11, Museum of Russian Political Naval Museum 11, 41, 57, 60
130–31 History 11, 39, 41, 72, 138 Street-by-Street map 59
Yuriev Monastery 164 Museum of Wooden Architecture Navy Day 51
Monet, Claude 91 (Novgorod) 164 Neff 80
Money 214–15 Nabokov Museum 41 Nelidova, E I, portrait of 106
Money Honey/City Club 205 Naval Museum 11, 41, 57, 59, 60 Neptun Hotel 176
Mongols 17 Pushkin House-Museum 39, 41, Nesterov, Mikhail 100
Monighetti, Ippolito 120, 152, 154 113, 134 Neva, River 36
Monplaisir (Peterhof) 150 Railway Museum 41, 123 bridges 36–7
Montferrand, Auguste de Repino 41, 146 cruises 226
Alexander Column 83 Russian Museum 40, 94, 97, 98, A 90-Minute Walk Along the
Bolshaya Morskaya ulitsa 104–7 Embankment 138–9
mansions 122 Stieglitz Museum 40, 127 Neva Gate 69
St Isaac’s Cathedral 79, 80 Stroganov Palace 40, 112 Street-by-Street map 66
St Isaac’s Square 79 Summer Palace 95 Neva Hotel 175
Monuments Theatre Museum 41, 110 NEVA
VA Travel Company 211
Monument to the Heroic Trubetskoy Bastion 41, 66, 69 Nevskiy Prospekt 46–9, 108
Defenders of Leningrad 41 Tsarskoe Selo 153 A Walk along St Petersburg’s
Monument to Rimsky-Korsakov Winter Palace 10, 92–3 Waterways 135
116 Zoological Museum 11, 41, 58, Nevsky, Alexander
Victory Monument 11, 131 60 Alexander Nevsky Monastery 130
Morkovka 185 Mushroom gathering 52 defeats Teutonic Knights 17
Morozov, Ivan 91 Music St Isaac’s Cathedral 80, 81
Moscow Academic Capella 112 sarcophagus and memorial 89
travelling between Moscow and ballet 118, 202, 203 tomb of 130–31
St Petersburg 219 church music 202, 203 New Exchange Bazaar
Moscow Station 220, 229 classical music 202, 203 Street-by-Street map 59
Moskva (restaurant) 185 folk music 202, 203 New Hermitage 84, 135
Moskva Hotel 175 live music and nightlife 204–5 New Holland 121
Mosque, Kamennoostrovskiy Museum of Musical Life 41, 129 New Island 184
Prospekt 70, 138 Musical Encounters in the New Year’s Eve 53
Mosquitoes 213 Northern Palmyra 53 New Zealand Embassy 211
Moyka River 36 Musical Spring in St Petersburg Newspapers 217
A Walk along St Petersburg’s 50 Neyelov, Ilya 154
Waterways 134–5 musicians 44 Neyelov, Vasiliy 154
Mstislav, Prince 163 opera 202, 203 Nicholas I, Tsar
MTS 217 in restaurants 179 Choral Synagogue 121
Murillo, Bartolomé Esteban 90 Rimsky-Korsakov Conservatory Cottage Palace (Peterhof) 150
Museums and galleries (general) 116, 120 Decembrist Rebellion 23, 78
38–41 shops 198, 199 Hermitage 84, 91
admission charges 208 Sound Ways Modern Music St Isaac’s Square 79
photography in 211 Festival 52 Smolnyy Convent 128
St Petersburg’s Best: Palaces and Stars of the White Nights statue of 77, 79
Museums 38–9 Classical Music Festival 51 Summer Garden 95
shops in 195 street music 202, 203 Nicholas II, Tsar 69
Museums and galleries (individual) Virtuosi 2000 50 Alexander Palace (Tsarskoe Selo)
Academy of Arts 40, 63 White Nights Rock Music Festival 155
Anna Akhmatova Museum 41, 51 Fabergé Easter eggs 82
129 White Nights Swing Jazz Festival and Matilda Kshesinskaya 72
Artillery Museum 41, 70 51 murder of 29
Cabin of Peter the Great 41, 73, Mussorgsky, Modest 44, 202 reburied in SS Peter and Paul
138–9 Mariinskiy Theatre 119 Cathedral 31, 69
Cathedral of SS Peter and Paul 41 tomb of 131 Russian Museum 104
Commandant’s House 41, 66, 69 Mussorgsky Opera and Ballet Russian Revolution 26, 28
Cruiser Aurora 41, 73, 139 Theatre 101, 203 Winter Palace 93
Dostoevsky House-Museum 41, Street-by-Street map 98 Nicholas market
130 Myatlev House 79 Street-by-Street map 117
Engineer’s House 41, 67, 68 “Nicholas Railway” 23
Hermitage 10, 40, 84–93 N Nicolas, Vladimir 120
Institute of Russian Literature 59 Na Liteynom 199 Nightclubs 204, 205
Kirov Museum 11, 41, 72 Na zdorovye! 185 Nijinsky, Vaslaw 45, 118, 119
Kshesinskaya Mansion 71, 72 Nabokov, Vladimir 122 Nikitin, Ivan 106, 153
Kunstkammer 11, 41, 58, 60–61 Nabokov Museum 41 Nikolaev, Leonid 72
Lycée (Tsarskoe Selo) 41 Nakhimov Naval Academy 138, 139 Nikolaevskiy Palace 203
Marble Palace 40, 94 Napoleon I, Emperor 111, 161 Nikolai Nikolaevich, Grand Duke
Menshikov Palace 38, 40, 62 Alexander Column 83 121
1913 10, 18 Palaces (cont.) Pavlovsk (cont.)

Noble Caledonia 220 Peterhof 148–51 Visitors’ Checklist 159
Noble Nest 10, 188 St Petersburg’s Best: Palaces and World War II 27
NoName 189 Museums 38–9 Pel, Aleksandr 122
Nord Hostel 171 Sheremetev Palace 129 Pel i men 193
Novgorod 143, 162–4 Stroganov Palace 47, 112, 135 Pelmenii 193
eating out on day trips 193 Summer Palace 95 Pelmeni Bar 11, 193
hotels 177 Tauride Palace 128 “People’s Will” group 26, 135
restaurants 191 Tsarskoe Selo 152–5 Peredvizhniki seee Wanderers
travelling to 229 Vorontsov Palace 111 Peregovornyy punkt (Call Centre)
Novgorod School 162, 163 Winter Palace 92–3 217
Russian icon painting 106, 165 Yelagin Palace 126, 133, 137 Perestroika (restructuring) 30
Novotel 176 Yusupov Palace 10, 116, 120 Peretyatkovich, Marian 46
Nureyev, Rudolf 45, 110, 118 Palermo 189 Perov, Vasiliy 107
Nystad, Peace of (1721) 19 Paloma 199 A Meal in the Monastery 104
Pancakes 193 Personal safety 212–13
O Panorama Travel Ltd 211, 220 Peter II, Tsar 19, 69
Obvodnyy 36 Panteleymon Bridge Peter III, Tsar 19
October Concert Hall 203 Street-by-Street map 99 assassination 22
Okdail 220 Park (restaurant) 18 Oranienbaum 146
Okhtinskaya Hotel 177 Parks and gardens (general) Pugachev Pretender 24
Oktyabrskiy Bolshoy kontsertnyy opening hours 208 Peter, Master 164
zal 205 Parks and gardens (individual) Peter and Paul Fortress 11, 18
Old Customs House 184 Admiralty Garden 46 A 90-Minute Walk Along the
Old Testament Trinityy (Rublev) 165 Aleksandrovskiy Park 70 Embankment 138
Olimpos 188 Botanical Gardens 136 Street-by-Street map 66–7
Oliva 186 Catherine Park (Tsarskoe Selo) Peter the Great, Tsar 18–19, 20–21,
Olympia 205 154 106, 107, 163
Opening hours 208 Central Park of Culture and Rest Academy of Sciences Library 59
bridges 209 126 Admiralty 78
restaurants 179 Gatchina 147 Alexander Nevsky Monastery 130
shops 194 Hanging Gardens (Hermitage) 85 Apothecary’s Island 136
Opera 202, 203 Maritime Victory Park 137 Bronze Horseman (Falconet) 10,
Oranienbaum 40, 143, 144, 146–7 Oranienbaum 147 75, 76, 78–9
travelling to 228 Pavlovsk 158 Cabin of Peter the Great 41, 73,
Orlov, Count Alexey 24 Peterhof 148, 150–51 138–9
Orlov, Count Grigoriy 108 Summer Garden 95 canals 36
Gatchina 147 Tauride Palace 128 Cathedral of SS Peter and Paul 68
Marble Palace 94 Tsarskoe Selo 153, 154 Hermitage 88, 89
Monplaisir (Peterhof) 150 Parland, Alfred 100 Kunstkammer 58, 60–61
Orthodox Church see Russian Passazh 199 Marly Palace (Peterhof) 150
Orthodox Church Passazh Arcade 48 Menshikov Palace 62
Osner, Karl 68 Passports 210 Monplaisir (Peterhof) 150
Ost-West 171 Pasta houses 192, 193 navy 60
Ostrovskiy, Aleksandr 110 Pastries and sweets 192, 193 New Holland 121
Ostrovskiy Square 110 Il Patio 193 oak tree 136
Otkiabrskaya Hotel 176 Patouillard, René 35 Peterhof 148–9
OVIRR 211 Paul I, Tsar portrait by Nikitin 153
assassination 22 portrait by Weenix 62
P and Carlo Rossi 110 Preobrazhenskiy Life-Guards 134
Palace Bridge 36 Cathedral of Our Lady of Kazan St Peter’s Gate 68
Palace Embankment 15, 75–95 111 statues of 67, 99, 101
area map 75 Gatchina 143, 147 Streltsy Rebellion 20
Hermitage 84–93 Mausoleum (Pavlovsk) 159 Summer Garden 95
hotels 174–5 Mikhaylovskiy Castle 99, 101 Summer Palace 39, 40, 95
restaurants 185–6 Military Medical Academy 139 tomb of 69
St Isaac’s Cathedral 80–81 Neptune Fountain (Peterhof) 151 Tsarskoe Selo 153
St Isaac’s Square 76–7 Pavlovsk 158, 160, 161 Twelve Colleges 61
A 90-Minute Walk Along the Pavlovskiy Guards 94 Vasilevskiy Island 57
Embankment 138–9 Tauride Palace 128 vodka 182
Palace Square 10, 83 Pavlov, Ivan 45, 61 Winter Palace 92
Palaces 38–40 Pavlova, Anna 42, 45 Peter the Great Bridge 37
Alexander Palace (Tsarskoe Selo) Ballet in St Petersburg 118 Peter the Great instructing his
155 Ballets Russes 119 workerss (Kotzebue) 17
Anichkov Palace 49, 109, 110 Imperial School of Ballet 110 Peterhof 40, 143, 148–51
Beloselskiy-Belozerskiy Palace 49 Pavlovsk 40, 143, 158–61 Cottage Palace 150
Chesma Palace 130 eating out on day trips 192, 193 eating out on day trips 192, 193
Cottage Palace (Peterhof) 150 floorplan 160 fountains 50, 151
Kamennoostrovskiy Palace 136 private apartments 161 The Hermitage 150
Marble Palace 94 restaurants 191 Marly Palace 150
Marly Palace (Peterhof) 150 St Petersburg’s Best: Palaces and Monplaisir 150
Menshikov Palace 62 Museums 38 St Petersburg’s Best: Palaces and
Mikhaylovskiy Palace 39, 98, 104 southern wing 161 Museums 38
Monplaisir (Peterhof) 150 state rooms 160–61 travelling to 228, 229
Oranienbaum 146–7 travelling to 228 Visitors’ Checklist 149
Petipa, Marius 45, 118, 131 Prosvet 205 Rastrelli, Bartolomeo (cont.)
Petrashevsky Circle 123 PTS card-operated phones 216 Vorontsov Palace 111
Petro Palace Hotel 174 Public holidays 53 Winter Palace 10, 85, 92
Petrogradskaya 15, 65–73 Public toilets 211 Rastrelli, Bartolomeo Carlo
area map 65 Pubs 192, 193 bust of Peter the Great 89
Peter and Paul Fortress 66–7 Pugachev Rebellion (1773–5) 22, 24 statue of Peter the Great 101
restaurants 184–5 Pulkovo Airlines 220 Razumovskiy, Aleksey 49, 109
Style Moderne in St Petersburg 71 Pulkovskaya Hotel 173, 176 Red Army 27
Petrol 229 Puppet theatres 201 Red Bridge 37
Pharmacies 213 Pushka Inn 175 Red Club 205
Philharmonia Pushkin Red Guard 28
Great (Shostakovich) Hall 43, hotels 177 Reed, John 79
101, 203 restaurants 191 Registration of foreigners 210
Small (Glinka) Hall 48, 203 Pushkin, Alexander 43, 44 Rembrandt 90
Photography 211 The Bronze Horseman 23, 37, 69, Abraham’s Sacrifice 86
Phryne at the Festival of Poseidon 78 Renaissance St Petersburg Baltic
in Eleusin
l (Siemiradzki) 105 death 83, 113 Hotel 172, 175
Picasso, Pablo 91, 94, 107 Fountain at Tsarskoe Selo 154 Reni, Guido 90
L’Homme aux Bras Croisés 91 Literary Café 46, 83 Renoir, Pierre Auguste 91
Pickpockets 212 Pushkin House-Museum 39, 113, Repin, Ilya 42, 45, 106–7
Pimenov, Nikolay 80 134 Academy of Arts 63
Pimenov, Stepan 83, 110 Repin’s portrait of 146 Barge-Haulers on the Volga 105
Pineau, Nicholas 148 statues of 101, 155 dacha 143
Pirosmani 191 Tsarskoe Selo 41, 155 grave of 146
Piskarevskoe Memorial Cemetery Pushkin, Natalya seee Goncharova, Portrait of Mikhail Glinka 44
126 Natalya Repino 41, 146
Pissarro, Camille 91 Pushkin (town) seee Tsarskoe Selo Repino 41, 146
Pivnaya 0.5 193 Pushkin House-Museum 41, 113, 134 restaurants 191
Pizza houses 192, 193 St Petersburg’s Best: Palaces and travelling to 229
Platforma 205 Museums 39 Restaurants 178–93
Ploshchad Lenina 139 Pushkin’s Dacha (Tsarskoe Selo) 155 children in 179
Podvorie (Pavlovsk) 191 Pushkinskaya 10 199 disabled travellers 179
Polenov, Vasiliy 107 Putin, Vladimir 31 dress code 179
Police 212, 213 Pyatnitsa 205 The Flavours of St Petersburg
Polikoff Hotel 175 180–81
Political prisoners 69 Q Gostinyy Dvor 187–8
Polovtsov, Aleksandr 122, 127, 137 Quarenghi, Giacomo live music 179
Poltava, Battle of (1709) 19, 21 Academy of Sciences 25, 58 Novgorod 191
Polyglot 189 Alexander Palace (Tsarskoe Selo) opening times 179
Popov, Aleksandr 45 155 Palace Embankment 185–6
Porcelain shops 199 Anichkov Palace 109 Pavlovsk 191
Port 205 English Quay buildings 121 payment and tipping 178
Portik Ruska Perinnyie R Ryadi 48 grave of 131 Petrogradskaya 184–5
Portrait of E I Nelidova (Levitskiy) Hermitage 84 Pushkin 191
106 Horseguards’ Manège 76, 79 reading the menu 178
Portrait of the Director Vsevolod New Exchange Bazaar 59 Repino 191
Meyerhold d (Grigoriev) 107 Round Market 134 reservations 179
Post International 217 Smolnyy Institute 128 Sennaya Ploshchad 188
Postal services 216–17 Tsarskoe Selo 154 Shuvalovka 191
Main Post Office 122, 217 Quarenghi’s Stalls 49 smoking in 179
Postel, Fyodor von 71 Quo Vadis? 217 types of restaurant 178
Potemkin, Prince Grigoriy 25 Vasilevskiy Island 184
Anichkov Palace 109 R vegetarian food 179
Peacock Clock 85 RADAR R 211 websites 179
Tauride Palace 128 Radio 217 where to eat 178
Potemkin, Pyotr 91 Radisson SAS Royal Hotel 176 Retur Camping 171
Poussin, Nicolas 90 Raiffeisen Bank 214 Revolution (1905) 26
Povari 189 Railway Museum 41, 123 Palace Square 83
“Prague Spring” 30 Railways seee Trains Trinity Square 73, 138
Premier 205 Rainfall 52 Revolution (1917) 26, 28–9
Preobrazhenskiy Life-Guards 134 Raphael 63, 84, 90, 130 Cruiser Aurora 73, 139
Prestige Hotel 172, 174 Rapsodiya 199 Finland Station 126
Prestige Hotel Centre 174 Rasputin, Grigoriy 26 Kshesinskaya Mansion 72, 138
Pri Dvorye (Novgorod) 191 Chesma Palace 130 Palace Square 83
Pribaltiyskaya Hotel 168, 177 death 40, 72, 121 Smolnyy Institute 128
Priboy 193 Yusupov Palace 10, 120 Revolution (disco) 205
Prima Sport Hotel 171 Rastrelli, Bartolomeo 19, 93 Reynolds, Sir Joshua 91
Prince Lobanov-Rostovskiy Mansion Catherine Palace (Tsarskoe Selo) Rezanov, Aleksandr 94
Street-by-Street map 77 38 Ribera, José de 90
Princess Olga Konstantinovna Gostinyy Dvor 108–9 Rimsky-Korsakov, Nikolai 44, 202
Orlova (Serov) 104 Monplaisir (Peterhof) 150 Academic Capella 112
Prisoners, political 69 Peterhof 148, 149 Monument to Rimsky-Korsakov
Probka 190 Smolnyy Convent 128 116
Progressive Tours 211 Stroganov Palace 112 Rimsky-Korsakov Conservatory
Prokofiev, Sergey 116, 120 Tsarskoe Selo 152, 154 120
Rimsky-Korsakov, Nikolai (cont.) Russian Orthodox Church (cont.) Serov, Vasiliy 163
tomb of 131 history 17 Serov, Valentin
Rimsky-Korsakov Conservatory 120 Iconostasis 165 Princess Olga Konstantinovna
Street-by-Street map 116 music 202, 203 Orlova 104
Rinaldi, Antonio revival of 31 7:40 191
Chesma Column (Tsarskoe Selo) Russian icon painting 165 Sever 199
154 visiting churches 208–9 Severnaya lira 199
Gatchina 147 Russian Revolution see Revolution Shakespeare, William 42, 113
Marble Palace 94 Russkaya Starina 199 Shaposhnikov, Ivan 121
Oranienbaum 146 Russkie bliny u Natashi 193 Shchedrin, Silvestr 45, 106
Rinaldi Bed & Breakfast 171 Russkiye Kruizy 226 Shchukin, Sergey 91
River Terminal 220 Russo-Japanese War (1904–5) 26, Shebuev, Vasiliy 63
Rivers 36 139 Shelfort Hotel 174
cruises 226–7 Russo-Turkish Wars 22 Sherbet 189
A Walk along St Petersburg’s Ruysch, Frederik 60–61 Sheremetev, Field Marshal Boris
Waterways 134–5 129
Rizhskiy Dvorik 189 S Sheremetev family 41, 129
Robert, Hubert 161 Saburov, Pyotr 88 Sheremetev Palace 125, 129
Rock music 51, 204, 205 Safety 212–13 Shinok 189
Rodchenko, Alexander 107 St Andrew’s Cathedral 63 Shmidt, Lieutenant Pyotr
Romanov dynasty 10, 94 St Isaac’s Cathedral 10, 11, 23, 75, Lieutenant Shmidt Bridge 37, 63
beginning of 17 80–81, 139 Shopping 194–9
end of 27, 28 Street-by-Street map 76 art and antiques 194–5, 198, 199
Rossi, Carlo 37, 110 St Isaac’s Square 79 bargaining etiquette 194
Anichkov Palace 109 Street-by-Street map 76–7 books, film and music 198, 199
Arts Square 98, 101 St Nicholas’ Cathedral 115, 120 department stores 195, 199
Decembrists’ Square 78 Belfry 117 furs and fashion 198, 199
General Staff Building 83, 135 Street-by-Street map 117 how to pay 194
grave of 131 St Nicholas Cathedral (Novgorod) markets and bazaars 195, 199
Mikhaylovskiy Palace 39, 98, 104, 163 museum shops 195
105 St Panteleymon’s Bridge 37 opening hours 194
Ostrovskiy Square 110 St Paraskeva Pyatnitsa (Novgorod) souvenirs and crafts 198, 199
Palace Square 83 163 Soviet memorabilia 198
Russian Library 110 SS Peter and Paul Cathedral see vodka and caviar 198
Senate building 76, 78 Cathedral of SS Peter and Paul What to Buy in St Petersburg
Synod building 76, 78 St Peter’s Gate 68 196–7
ulitsa Zodchevo Rossi 110 Street-by-Street map 67 Shostakovich, Dmitriy 43, 44, 202
Yelagin Palace 136–7 St Petersburg (restaurant) 11, 188 film music 45
Rossiya Hotel 176 A 90-Minute Walk Along the Mariinskiy Theatre 119
Rostral Columns 60 Embankment 138–9 Rimsky-Korsakov Conservatory
Street-by-Street map 59 St Petersburg Hotel 173, 177 116, 120
Round Market 134 St Petersburg International Youth Seventh Symphony 27, 43, 44
Rowley, Master John 89 Hostel 171, 211 Victory Monument 131
Rubens, Peter Paul 90, 93, 130 St Petersburg Opera 203 Shreter, Viktor 121
The Marriage of Emperor St Petersburg University Shubin, Fedot 130, 151
Constantine 93 Twelve Colleges 58, 61 Shury Mury 189
Rubinstein, Anton 44, 116, 120 St Sophia’s Belfry (Novgorod) 162 Shustov, Smaragd 136
Rublev, Andrey 106, 164 Sakharov, Andrei 30, 31 Shuvalovka 201
Old Testament Trinityy 165 Salkhino 11, 185 restaurants 191
Rudnev, Lev 94 SALT talks 30 Shyolk 188
Rurik, Prince 17, 162, 163 Samotsvety 199 Siege of Leningrad (1941–4) 27, 43
Rusca, Luigi 48 Samovars 183 Hermitage 85
Russia Day 51 SAS 220 Monument to the Heroic
Russian Federation Sberbank 214 Defenders of Leningrad 41
map 12–13 Schädel, Gottfried 62, 146 Piskarevskoe Memorial Cemetery
Russian Fishing 190 Schlüsselburg Fortress 69 126
Russian food 192, 193 Schlüter, Andreas 95, 153 Victory Monument 131
Russian Kitsch 11, 184 Schmidt, Karl 82 Siemiradzki, Henryk
Russian Museum 40, 97, 104–7 Schöne, Vasiliy 137 Phryne at the Festival of Poseidon
18th–19th-century art 106–7 School No. 210 46 in Eleusin 105
floorplan 104–5 Schröter, Viktor 119 “Silver Age”, poetry 44, 129
folk art 107 Scientists 45 Sindbad 171
icons 106 Scott’s Tours 220 Singer House 47, 71, 135
Marble Palace 94 “Secret House” 66, 69 Singers’ Bridge 37, 112, 135
Old Russian art 106 Security 212–13 The Six-Winged Seraph (Vrubel) 107
St Petersburg’s Best: Palaces and in hotels 169 Skating 53
Museums 39 Sekunda 199 Skiing 53
Street-by-Street map 98 Senat Bar 18 Sladkoezhka 193
20th-century art 107 Sennaya Ploshchad 15, 115–23 Slavs 17
Visitors’ Checklist 105 area map 115 Slavyanskiy stil 11, 199
Russian National Library 48, 110 Ballet in St Petersburg 118 Sledges 53
Information Service Centre 217 hotels 175 Sleep Cheap 171
Russian Orthodox Church restaurants 188 Small Hall of the Philharmonia 48,
Christmas 53 Sennaya Ploshchad 122–3 203
Easter Sunday 50 Theatre Square 116–17 Small Hermitage 84, 85
Small Stable Bridge 35, 37 Stroganov, Count Sergey 112 Thirty Years War 151
Smoking 179, 209 Stroganov Palace 40, 47, 112 Thomon, Thomas de 60, 131
Smolnyy Cathedral 203 A Walk along St Petersburg’s Tickets
Smolnyy Convent 128 Waterways 135 entertainments 200
Smolnyy district 125 Stroganoff Yard 193 kiosks 201
Smolnyy Institute 11, 128–9 Student travellers 210, 211 travel 223, 225
Snow 52 Style Moderne 65, 71 Tiepolo, Giovanni Battista 90
Sobchak, Anatoly 31 Kamennoostrovskiy prospekt 70, Tikhvin Cemetery 131
Sobiratel 199 138 Tilsit, Peace of (1807) 22
Sobornaya Mosque 70, 138 Kshesinskaya Mansion 72 Time of Troubles (1605–13) 17
Sobranie (Shuvalovka) 191 Yeliseev’s 109 Time zones 211
Social-Democratic Workers party 26 Suburban trains 228–9 Tinkoff 193
Socialist Realism 27 Sukawati 187 Tipping 209
Society for the Advancement of Suliko 187 Titian 63, 90
Travel for the Handicapped 211 Summer Garden 95 Toasts 209
Soiree 193 Summer in St Petersburg 51 Toilets 211
Sokolov, Pavel 34 Summer Palace 40, 95 Tolstoy, Leo
Girl with a Pitcherr 154 St Petersburg’s Best: Palaces and War and Peacee 23, 111, 121
Solzhenitsyn, Alexander 30 Museums 39 Torelli, Stefano 94
Sophia, Regent 18 Sunduk 190 Tour companies 220
Sound Ways Modern Music Festival Sunshine 51 Tourist information 208, 211
52 Supermarket 199 Trains 220
Souvenir Market 11, 199 Suprematism 107 Finland Station 126
Souvenir shops 198 Supremus No. 56 6 (Malevich) 29 Railway Museum 41, 123
Sovetskaya Hotel 172, 176 Surikov, Vasiliy 107 suburban trains 228–9
Soviet memorabilia 198 Sushi 192, 193 travelling between Moscow and
Space race 30, 50 Sushi Planet 193 St Petersburg 219
S.P.A.S. 199 Swan Canal 36 travelling to St Petersburg 219
Speranskiy, Sergey 131 St Petersburg’s Best: Bridges and Traitteur, Georg von 35, 37, 135
Sphinx 57 Waterways 35 Trams 224
Spoon 18 Swimming 53 Transaero 220
Sport 51 Symbolists 107 Trapeza (Petrodvorets) 193
Spring in St Petersburg 50 Synagogue, Choral 121 Trauberg, Leonid 45, 70
Sputnik 30 Syuzor, Pavel 47, 71 Trauma Clinic of the Central District
Stakenschneider, Andrei 49, 85, 94 213
Stalin, Joseph 125 T Travel 218–29
assassination of Kirov 41, 72 Tamanskiy, Pyotr 70 air 218–19, 220
dictatorship 27 Tatlin, Vladimir 79 buses and minibuses 224–5
Khrushchev denounces 30 Tatyana Parfyonova modnyy dom canal and river cruises 226–7
metro stations 222 199 cars 229
purges 27, 72, 129 Tauride Palace 128 coaches 220
Staraya Bashnya (Pushkin) 191 Taurit, Robert 126 ferries and cruises 220
Staraya Derevnya 191 Taxis 201, 226, 227 hydrofoils 229
Staraya kniga 199 airport 219 insurance 212
Starov, Ivan 128, 130 Tbiliso 185 late night transport 201
Stars of the White Nights Classical Tchaikovsky, Pyotr 42, 44, 49, 202 Metro 222–3
Music Festival 51 death 82 St Petersburg’s surroundings 144
Staryy Dom 190 Mariinskiy Theatre 119 taxis 201, 226, 227
Stasov, Vasiliy Pathétique symphony 101 trains 219, 220
Cathedral of the Transfiguration Rimsky-Korsakov Conservatory trams 224
127 116, 120 travelling out of St Petersburg
Imperial Stables 113 tomb of 11, 131 228–9
Literary Café 83 Tea 183 trolleybuses 225
Pavlovskiy Guards barracks 94 Telegrams 217 walking 221
Smolnyy Convent 128 Telephones 169, 216 water taxis 227
Stieglitz, Baron Aleksandr 127 Television 217 Travel cards 223, 225
Stieglitz Museum 40, 127 Telex 217 Travellers’ cheques 212, 215
St Petersburg’s Best: Palaces and Temperatures 53 Tres Amigos 190
Museums 39 Terborch, Gerard 90 Trezzini, Domenico
Still Life with the Attributes of the Teremok 193 Cathedral of SS Peter and Paul 68
Artss (Chardin) 91 Terrace 185 Church of the Annunciation 130
Stirka 40E 193 Tertia 199 Peter and Paul Fortress 66
Stolle 193 Teutonic Knights 17 St Peter’s Gate 67, 68
Stone Bridge 135 Theatre 202–3 Summer Palace 95
Stony Island Hotel 177 Kamennoostrovskiy Theatre 136 Twelve Colleges 61
La Strada 187 Mariinskiy Theatre 116, 119, 202, Trezzini, Giuseppe 63
Stravinsky, Igor 44, 119 203 Tribunal 205
Street Life 205 Theatre Festival of the Baltic TriEl 205
Street music 202, 203 Countries 52 Trinity Bridge 37, 65, 73, 138
Strelka 11 Theatre Museum 41, 110 St Petersburg’s Best: Bridges and
Street-by-Street map 58–9 Theatre Bridge 37, 134 Waterways 35
Strelna Theatre Square Trinity Square 73, 138
hotels 177 Street-by-Street map 116–17 Trinity Sunday 51
Streltsy Guards 18, 20 Theft 212 Triscorni, Paolo 77
Streltsy Rebellion (1682) 18, 20 Theophanes the Greek 164 Troika 190
Troitskiy Most 11, 193 Victory Day 50, 53 White Nights Rock Music Festival
Trolleybuses 225 Victory Monument 11, 131 51
Trotsky, Leon 27 Vienna (restaurant) 18 White Nights Swing Jazz Festival 51
Civil War 123 Virgin in Majestyy (Bryullov) 81 White Russians 27
imprisonment 69 Virtuosi 2000 50 Wine 183
murder 29 Visas 210, 211 Winter Canal 36
Russian Revolution 28, 29 rail travel 219 St Petersburg’s Best: Bridges and
Trubetskoy, Prince Pavel 94 Vist, Aleksandr 63 Waterways 34
Trubetskoy Bastion 41, 69 Vitali, Ivan 80, 81 A Walk along St Petersburg’s
Street-by-Street map 66 Vitebsk Station 220, 229 Waterways 134–5
Tsarskoe Selo 40, 139, 143, 152–5 Vladimir, Grand Prince 17 Winter in St Petersburg 53
in Autumn 52 Vladimir Aleksandrovich, Grand Winter Palace 10, 40, 85, 87, 92–3
Catherine Park 154 Duke 94 storming of 28–9
eating out on day trips 193 Vladimir Kirilovich, Grand Duke 67 Witte, Count Sergey 70
map 155 Vladimirskiy Passazh 199 Women, safety 212
St Petersburg’s Best: Palaces and Vodka 182, 198 “World of Art” movement 26, 45,
Museums 38 Volkhov, River 162 107
Town of Tsarskoe Selo 155 Volkhov Hotel (Novgorod) 177 World War I 26–7
travelling to 228 Volna 185 World War II 27
Tsarskoe Selo Park 155 Voltaire 22, 113 Monument to the Heroic
Visitors’ Checklist 153 correspondence with Catherine Defenders of Leningrad 41
Tsarskoe Selo Carnival 51 the Great 24 Victory Day 50
Tsinik 205 library of 110 Victory Monument 131
Tunnel (disco) 205 statue of 87 seee also Siege of Leningrad
Turkish Bath (Tsarskoe Selo) 154 Voronikhin, Andrey Wright of Derby, Joseph 91
“Turreted House” 70 Academy of Arts 63 Writers 44
Twelve Colleges 61 Cathedral of Our Lady of Kazan Writers’ Bookshop 199
Street-by-Street map 58 111
Centaur Bridge (Pavlovsk) 158 X
U grave of 131 X.O. 190
U tyoshi na blinakh 193 Kazan Cathedral 47 Xren 190
UK Embassy 211 Pavlovsk 160, 161
Ulitsa Zodchevo Rossi 110 Visconti Bridge (Pavlovsk) 159 Y
Union of Artists 199 Vorontsov, Prince Mikhail 111 Yaroslav the Wise 163
US Embassy 211 Vorontsov Palace 111
Yaroslav’s Court (Novgorod) 163
Vostochynyy Ugolok 187 Yefimov, Nikolay 77
V Voyages Jules Verne 220 Yegorov, Pyotr 95
Vaganova, Agrippina 45, 110, 118 Vrubel, Mikhail 107 Yelagin Island 11, 133
Valeriani, Giuseppe 152 The Six-Winged Seraph 107 A Walk around Kamennyy and
Vallin de la Mothe, Jean-Baptiste Vsevolod, Prince 164 Yelagin Islands 136–7
Academy of Arts 63 Yelagin Palace 40, 126, 133
Church of St Catherine 48 W A Walk around Kamennyy and
Gostinyy Dvor 109 Walks in St Petersburg 133–9, 221 Yelagin Islands 137
New Holland 121 A 90-Minute Walk Along the Yeliseev, Pyotr 109
Small Hermitage 85 Embankment 138–9 Yeliseev’s 49, 109, 199
Yusupov Palace 120 A Walk along St Petersburg’s Style Moderne in St Petersburg 71
Van Dyck, Anthony 90, 130 Waterways 134–5 Yeltsin, Boris 30, 31, 53
Van Gogh, Vincent 91 A Walk around Kamennyy and Yesenin, Sergey 79
Vasilevskiy Island 14, 57–63 Yelagin Islands 136–7 A Young Man Playing a Lute
area map 57 Wanderers (Peredvizhniki) 45, 63, (Caravaggio) 90
hotels 174 106–7 Yubileynyy dvorets sporta 205
restaurants 184 Warhol, Andy 94 Yuriev Monastery 164
Strelka 58–9 Warsaw Pact 30 Yusupov, Prince Felix 111, 120, 121
Vasiliev, Aleksandr 126 Warsaw Station 229 Yusupov family 116, 120
Vasnetsov, Viktor Water Yusupov Palace 10, 40, 120
Church on Spilled Blood mosaics health precautions 213 Street-by-Street map 11
100 mineral waters 183 Yusupov Theatre 203 6
Knight at the Crossroads 106, 107 Water taxis 227
Vegetarian food 179 Waterways 34–7 Z
Velázquez, Diego de Silva y 90 St Petersburg’s Best: Bridges and Zakharov, Andrey 63, 78, 131
Velten, Yuriy Waterways 34–5 Zakuskii 181
Armenian Church 48, 108 A Walk along St Petersburg’s Zarudnyy, Ivan 67, 68
Chesma Church 130 Waterways 134–5 Zazerkalye 201
Chesma Palace 130 Watteau, Antoine 90 Zeck, Johann 161
Church of St John the Baptist 136 Weather 50–53 Zelenogorsk
Creaking Pavilion (Tsarskoe Selo) Websites hotels 177
154 entertainments 201 Zhivago 80
Hermitage Theatre 34 restaurants 179 Znamenskiy Cathedral (Novgorod)
Large Hermitage 84 Wedgwood, Josiah 91, 130 164
Peterhof 149 Weenix, Jan 62 Zoological Museum 11, 41, 60
Small Hermitage 85 Westpost 217 Street-by-Street map 58
Summer Garden 95 Weyden, Rogier van der 90 Zurbarán, Francisco 90
Venus and Cupid d (Cranach) 90 Wheelchair access see Disabled Zver 11, 185
Vereshchagin, Nikolay 89 travellers Zverkov House 135
Vernisazh 199 White Nights festivals 51, 201
258 A C K N O W L E D G M E N T S
Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank Design and Editorial Assistance
the following people whose contribu- Gillian Allan, Douglas Amrine, Liz
tions and assistance have made the Atherton, Laurence Broers, Lucinda
preparation of this book possible. Cooke, Vivien Crump, Dawn Davies-
Cook, Alexandra Farrell, Claire Folkard,
Main Contributor Freddy Hamilton, Paul Hines, Leanne
Christopher Rice holds a PhD in Russian Hogbin, Vicki Ingle, Kathryn Lane, Sam
history from the University of Birming- Merrell, Fiona Morgan, Jane Oliver,
ham. He and his wife Melanie, also a Marianne Petrou, Amir Reuveni, Ellen
writer, first visited Russia in 1978 and Root, Luke Rozkowski, Alison Stace,
have been returning regularly ever since. Ingrid Vienings, Veronica Wood.
W
Together they have written numerous
travel guides to the city, and to a variety Additional Illustrations
of other destinations, including Prague, Claire Littlejohn, John Woodcock.
W
Berlin and Istanbul, as well as the
Eyewitness Travel Guide to Moscow. Additional Photography
Valentin Baranovsky, Victoria Buyvid,
Catherine Phillips is an art historian who Andy Crawford, Erich Crichton, Neil
arrived in Russia in 1985 and has lived Fletcher, Steve Gorton, Paul Miller, Ian
there ever since, moving to St Petersburg O’Leary, Clive Streeter; KOMMERSANT
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260 P H R A S E B O O K
Phrase Book
In this guide the Russian language has been In particular, the names of Russian rulers,
transliterated into Roman script following a such as Peter the Great, are given in their
consistent system used by the US Board on anglicized forms. Throughout the book, trans-
Geographic Names. All street and place names, literated names can be taken as an accurate
and the names of most people, are transliterated guide to pronunciation. The Phrase Book also
according to this system. For some names, gives a phonetic guide to the pronunciation of
where a well-known English form exists, this words and phrases used in everyday situations,
has been used – hence, Leo (not Lev) Tolstoy. such as when eating out or shopping.
GUIDELINES FOR PRONUNCIATION In Emergency

The Cyrillic alphabet has 33 letters, of which only five (а, к, Help! Помогите! pamageet-ye!
м, о, т) correspond exactly to their counterparts in English. Pomogite!
Russian has two pronunciations (hard and soft) of each of its Stop! Стоп! stop!
vowels, and several consonants without an equivalent. Stop!
The right-hand column of the alphabet, below, demon- Leave me alone! Оставтье меня в astavt’-ye
a myen
nyaa v
strates how Cyrillic letters are pronounced by comparing покое! pakoye!
them to sounds in English words. However, some letters Ostavte menya v
vary in how they are pronounced according to their position pokoe!
in a word. Important exceptions are also noted below. Call a doctor! Позовите врача! pazaveet-ye
On the following pages, the English is given in the left- Pozovite vracha! vracha!
hand column, with the Russian and its transliteration in the
Call an ambulance! Вызовите скорую vizaveet-ye
middle column. The right-hand column provides a literal
помощь! skoru-yu pomash’!
system of pronunciation and indicates the stressed syllable in
Vyzovite skoruyu
bold. The exception is in the Menu Decoderr section, where
pomoshch!
the Russian is given in the left-hand column and the English
Fire! Пожар! pazhar!
translation in the right-hand column, for ease of use.
Pozhar!
Because of the existence of genders in Russian, in a few cases
Call the fire brigade! Вызовите vizaveet-ye
both masculine and feminine forms of a phrase are given.
пожарных! pazharnikh!
Vyzovite
THE CYRILLIC ALPHABET pozharnykh!
Аа a alimony Police! Милиция! meeleetsee-ya!
Бб b bed Militsiya!
Вв v vet Where is the Где ближайший… gdye
Гг g get (see note 1) nearest… Gde blizhayshiy… bleezhaysheey…
a
Дд d debt …telephone? …телефон? …tyelyefo
f n?
Ее e yet (see note 2) …telefon?
Ёё e yonder …hospital? …больница? …bal’neetsa?
Жж zh leisure (but a little …bolnitsa?
harder) …police station? …отделение …atdyelyenye
Зз z zither милиции? meeleetsee-ee?
Ии i see …otdelenie
Йй y boyy (see note 3) militsii?
Кк k king
Лл l loot Communication Essentials
Мм m match
Нн n never Yes Да da
Оо o rob (see note 4) Da
Пп p pea No Нет nyet
Рр r rat (rolling, as in Italian) Net
Сс s stop Please Пожалуйста pazhalsta
Тт t toffee Pozhaluysta
Уу u boot Thank you Спасибо spaseeba
Фф f f
fellow Spasibo
Хх kh kh
h (like loch) You are welcome Пожалуйста pazhalsta
Цц ts lets Pozhaluysta
Чч ch chair Excuse me Извините eezveeneet-ye
Шш sh shove Izvinite
Щщ shch fresh sheet (as above Hello Здравствуйте zdrastvooyt-ye
but with a slight roll) Zdravstvuyte
ъ hard sign (no sound, but Goodbye До свидания da sveedanya
see note 5) Do svidaniya
Ыы y lid Good morning Доброе утро dobra-ye ootra
ь soft sign (no sound, but Dobroe utro
see note 5) Good afternoon/day Добрый день dobree dyen’
Ээ e egg Dobryy den
Юю yu youth Good evening Добрый вечер dobree vye
v chyer
Яя ya yak Dobryy vecher
Good night Спокойной ночи spakoynay nochee
Spokoynoy nochi
Notes Morning утро ootra
utro
1) Г Pronounced as v in endings -ого and -его.
Afternoon день dyen’
2) Е Always pronounced yee at the beginning of a word, but
den
in the middle of a word sometimes less distinctly (more like e).
Evening вечер v chyer
vye
3) Й This letter has no distinct sound of its own. It usually
vecher
lengthens the preceeding vowel.
Yesterday вчера fchyera
4) О When not stressed it is pronounced like a in across.
5) ъ, ь The hard sign (ъ) is rare and indicates a very brief vchera
pause before the next letter. The soft sign (ь, marked in the Today сегодня syevodnya
pronunciation guide as ‘) softens the preceeding consonant sevodnya
and adds a slight y sound: for instance, n’’ would sound like Tomorrow завтра zaftra
a
nyy in ‘canyon’. zavtra
Here здесь zdyes’
zdes
P H R A S E B O O K 261
There там tam down внизу fneezoo

tam vnizu
What? Что? shto? early рано rana
Chto? rano
Where? Где? gdye? late поздно pozdna
Gde? pozdno
Why? Почему? pachyemoo? vacant (unoccupied) свободно svabodna
Pochemu? svobodno
When? Когда? kagda? free (no charge) бесплатно byesplatna
a
Kogda? besplatno
Now сейчас seychas cashier/ticket office касса kasa
seychas kassa
Later позже pozhe avenue проспект praspyekt
pozzhe prospekt
Can I…? можно? mozhna…? bridge мост most
mozhno? most
It is можно mozhna embankment набережная nabyeryezhnaya
a
possible/allowed mozhno naberezhnaya
It is not нельзя nyelzya highway/motorway шоссе shasse
possible/allowed nelzya shosse
lane/passage переулок pyeryeoolak
pereulok
Useful Phrases square площадь ploshat’
ploshchad
How are you? Как Вы Поживаете? kak vee pozhiv
i aete? street улица ooleetsa
Kak vee pozhivaete? ulitsa
Very well, thank Хорошо, спасибо kharasho, spaseeba flat/apartment квартира kvarteera
you Khorosho, spasibo kvartira
Pleased to meet you Очень приятно ochen’ pree-yatna
a floor этаж etash
Ochen priyatno etazh
How do I get to…? Как добраться kak dabrat’sya
a da…? house/block дом dom
до…? dom
Kak dobratsya do…? entrance вход fkhot
Would you tell me Скажите, skazheet-ye, vkhod
when we get пожалуйста, pazhalsta, kagda exit выход vikhot
когда мы mi pree-yedyem vykhod
приедем в…? v…? river река ryeka
To...? Skazhite, reka
pozhaluysta, summer country дача dacha
kogda my
house dacha
priedem v…?
swimming pool бассейн basyeyn
y
Is it very far? Это далеко? eta dalyeko?
basseyn
Eto daleko?
town город gorat
Do you speak Вы говорите vi gavareet-ye
gorod
English? по-английски? po-angleeskee?
toilet туалет tooalye
l t
Vy govorite
tualet
po-angliyski?
I don’t understand Я не понимаю ya nye
Ya ne ponimayu paneema-yoo
Making a Telephone Call
Could you speak Говорите gavareet-ye
Can I call abroad Можно отсюда mozhnaa atsyooda
more slowly? медленнее m dlyenye-ye
mye
from here? позвонить за pazvaneet’ za
Govorite medlennee
Could you say it Повторите, paftareet-ye, границу? graneetsoo?
again please? пожалуйста pazhalsta Mozhno ostyuda
Povtorite, pozvonit za
pozhaluysta granitsu?
I am lost я заблудился ya zabloodeelsya I would like to Позовите, pazaveet-ye,
(заблудилась) (zabloodeelas’) speak to… пожалуйста… pazhalsta…
Ya zabludilsya Pozovite,
(zabludilas) pozhaluysta
How do you say… Как по-русски…? kak pa-rooskee…? Could you leave Вы можете vi mozhet-ye
in Russian? Kak po-russki…? him/her a передать ему/ей? pyeryedat’
a
message? By mozhete peredat yemoo/yay?
emy/ey?
My number is… Мой номер… moy nomyer…
Moy nomer…
Useful Words I’ll ring back later Я позвоню позже ya pazvanyoo
n
Ya pozvonyu pozzhe pozhe
big большой bal’shoy
bolshoy
small маленький malyen’kee
Sightseeing
malenkiy
hot (water, food) горячий garya
r chee castle замок zamak
goryachiy zamok
hot (weather) жарко zharka cathedral собор sabor
zharko sobor
cold холодный khalodnee church церковь tserkaf’
kholodnyy tserkov
good хорошо kharasho circus цирк tseerk
khorosho tsirk
bad плохо plokha closed for cleaning санитарный день saneetarnee dyen’
plokho “cleaning day” sanitarnyy den
okay/fine нормально narmal’na undergoing ремонт remont
normalno restoration remont
near близко bleezka exhibition выставка vistafka
blizko vystavka
far далеко dalyeko fortress крепость kryepost’
daleko krepost
up наверху navyerkhoo gallery галерея galerye
r ya
naverkhu galereya
garden сад sad camera shop фото-товары f to-tavari

fo
sad foto-tovary
island остров ostraf chemist аптека aptye
t ka
ostrov apteka
kremlin/fortified кремль kryeml’ delicatessen гастроном gastranom
stronghold kreml gastronom
library библиотека beeblee-atye
t ka department store универмаг ooneevyermag
biblioteka univermag
monument памятник pamyatneek florist цветы tsvyeti
pamyatnik tsvety
mosque мечеть myechye
h t’ grocer бакалея bakalye
l -ya
bakaleya
mechet
hairdresser парикмахерская pareekmakhyerskaya
museum музей moozyey
parikmakherskaya
muzey
market рынок rinak
palace дворец dvarye
r ts
rynok
dvorets newspaper stand газетный киоск gazyetnee kee-osk
park парк park gazetniy kiosk
park post office почта pochta
parliament дума dooma pochta
duma record shop грампластинки gramplasteenkee
synagogue синагога seenagoga gramplastinki
sinagoga shoe shop обувь oboof’
zoo зоопарк zapark obuv
zoopark travel agent бюро путешествий byooro
byuro puteshestviy pootyeshestvee
bank банк bank
Shopping bank
open открыто atkrita

otkryto Staying in a Hotel
closed закрыто zakrita
zakryto Do you have a У вас есть oo vas yest’
How much does Сколько это стоит? skol’ka eta stoeet? vacant room? свободный номер? svabodnee
this cost? Skolko eto stoit? U vas yest nomyer?
I would like to Я хотел (хотела) бы ya khatye
t l (khatye
t la) svobodnyy nomer?
buy…… купить… bi koopeet’… double room with номер с nomyer s
Ya khotel (khotela) double bed двуспальной dvoospal’noy
by kupit… кроватью kravat’-yoo
a
Do you have……? У вас есть…? oo vas yest’…? nomer s dvuspalnoy
U vas yest….? krovatyu
twin room двухместный dvookhmye
m stnee
Do you take credit Кредитные kryedeetnye
номер nomyer
cards? карточки вы kartachkee vy
dvukhmestnyy
принимаете? preeneemayetye?
a
nomer
Kreditnye kartochki
single room одноместный adnamye
m stnee
vy prinimaete? номер nomyer
What time do you Во сколько вы Va skol’ka vy odnomestnyy nomer
open/close? открываетесь/ atkrivayetyes’/
a bath ванная vana-ya
закрываетесь? zakrivayetyes’?
a vannaya
Vo skolko vy shower душ doosh
otkryvaetes/ dush
zakryvaetes? porter носильщик naseel’sheek
This one этот etat nosilshchik
etot key ключ klyooch
expensive дорого doraga klyuch
dorogo
cheap дёшево d shyeva
dyo
deshevo Eating Out
size размер razmye
m r
razmer A table for two, Стол на двоих, stol na dva-eekh,
white белый byelee please пожалуйста pazhalsta
belyy I would like to Я хочу заказать ya khachoo zakazat’
a
black чёрный chyo
h rnee book a table стол stol
chernyy Ya khochu zakazat
red красный krasnee stol
krasnyy The bill, please Счёт, shyot, pazhalsta
yellow жёлтый zholtee пожалуйста
zheltyy Schet,
green зелёный zyelyo
l nee pozhaluysta
zelenyy I am a vegetarian Я вегетерианец ya vyegyetareeanyets
dark blue синий seenee (вегетерианка) (vyegyetareeanka)
siniy Ya vegeterianets
light blue голубой galooboy (vegeterianka)
goluboy breakfast завтрак zaftrak
a
zavtrak
brown коричневый kareechnyevee
lunch обед abyet
korichnevyy
obed
dinner ужин oozheen
uzhin
Types of Shop waiter! официант! afeetsee-ant!
ofitsiant!
bakery булочная boolachna-ya waitress! официантка! afeetsee-antka!
bulochnaya ofitsiantka!
bookshop книжный магазин kneezhnee magazeen dish of the day фирменное блюдо f rmenoye
fee
knizhnyy magazin firmennoe blyudo blyooda
butcher мясной магазин myasnoyy magazeen appetizers/starters закуски zakooskee
myasnoy magazin zakuski
P H R A S E B O O K 263
main course второе блюдо ftaroye blyooda капуста kapoosta cabbage

vtoroe blyudo kapusta
meat and poultry мясные блюда m sniye blyooda
mya картофель kartofyel’ potato
dishes myasnye blyuda kartofel
fish and seafood рыбные блюда ribniye
i blyooda квас kvas kvas (sweet, mildly
dishes rybnye blyuda kvas alcoholic drink)
vegetable dishes овощные блюда avashshniye
i клубника kloobneeka strawberries
ovoshchnye blyuda blyooda klubnika
dessert десерт dyesyert колбаса kalbasa salami sausage
desert kolbasa
drinks напитки napeetkee кофе kofye coffee
napitki kofe
vegetables овощи ovashshee красное вино krasnoye veeno red wine
ovoshchi krasnoe vino
bread хлеб khlyeb креветки kryevye
v tkee prawns
khleb krevetki
wine list карта вин karta veen курица kooreetsa chicken
karta vin kuritsa
rare (steak) недожаренный nyedazharenee
лук look onion
nedozharennyy
luk
well done (steak) прожаренный prozharenee
малина maleena raspberries
prozharennyy
malina
glass стакан stakan
минеральная вода mineral’naya vada mineral water
stakan
mineralnaya voda
bottle бутылка bootilka
butylka мороженое marozhena-ye ice-cream
knife нож nosh morozhenoee
nozh мясо m sa
mya meat
fork вилка veelka myaso
vilka огурец agoorye
r ts cucumber
spoon ложка loshka ogurets
lozhka осетрина asyetreena sturgeon
plate тарелка tarye
r lka osetrina
tarelka пельмени pyel’mye
m nee meat or fish
napkin салфетка salfye
f tka pelmeni dumplings
salfetka персик pyerseek peach
salt соль sol’ persik
sol печенье pyechye
h n’ye biscuit
pepper перец pyeryets pechene
perets печёнка pyechyo
h nka liver
butter/oil масло masla pechenka
maslo печёный pyechyo
h nee baked
sugar сахар sakhar pechenyy
sakhar пиво peeva beer
pivo
пирог peerok pie
Menu Decoder pirog
пирожки peerashkee small parcels with
абрикос abreekos apricot pirozhki savoury fillings
abrikos помидор pameedor tomato
апельсин apyel’seen orange pomidor
apelsin морепродукты moryeproduktee seafood
апельсиновый сок apyel’seenavee sok orange juice moryeprodukteee
apelsinovyy sokk рыба riba
i fish
арбуз arbooz water melon ryba
arbuz салат salat
a salad
белое вино byelaye veeno white wine salat
beloe vino свинина sveeneena pork
бифштекс beefshtye
t ks steak svinina
bifshteks сельдь sye’ld’ herring
блины bleeni pancakes seld
bliny сосиски saseeskee sausages
борщ borshsh borsch (beetroot sosiski
borshch soup) сыр sir cheese
варенье varye
r n’ye Russian syrup-jam syr
varene
сырой siroy raw
варёный varyo
r nee boiled
syroy
varenyy
утка ootka duck
ветчина vyetcheena ham
utka
vetchina
фасоль fasol’ beans
вода vada water
voda fasol
говядина gavya
v deena beef форель farye
r l’ trout
govyadina forel
грибы greebi mushrooms чай chai tea
griby chay
груша groosha pear чеснок chyesnok garlic
grusha chesnok
гусь goos goose шашлык shashlik kebab
gus shashlyk
джем dzhem jam яйцо yaytso egg
dzhem yaytso
жареный zharyenee roasted/grilled/fried слива sleeva plum
zharenyy sliva
икра eekra black caviar фрукты frookti fruit
ikra frukty
икра красная/кета eekraa krasna-ya/ red caviar яблоко yablaka
a apple
ikra krasnaya/keta k ta
kye yabloko
Transport odinnadtsat
12 двенадцать dvyenatsat’
a
north север syever dvenadtsat
sever 13 тринадцать treenatsat’
a
south юг yook trinadtsat
yug 14 четырнадцать chyetirnatsat’
east восток vastok chetyrnadtsat
vostok 15 пятнадцать pyatnatsat’
a
west запад zapat pyatnadtsat
zapad 16 шестнадцать shestnatsat’
a
airport аэропорт aeraport shestnadtsat
aeroport 17 семнадцать syemnatsat’
a
aeroplane самолёт samalyot semnadtsat
samolet 18 восемнадцать vasyemnatsat’
a
traffic police ДПС day-pay-ess vosemnadtsat
DPS 19 девятнадцать dyevyatnatsat’
a
bus автобус aftoboos devyatnadtsat
avtobus 20 двадцать dvatsat’
a
bus station автобусная aftoboosna-ya dvadtsat
станция stantsee-ya 21 двадцать один dvatsat’
a adeen
avtobusnaya
dvadtsat odin
stantsiya
22 двадцать два dvatsat’
a dva
bus stop остановка автобуса astanofka aftoboosa
dvadtsat dva
ostanovka avtobusa
23 двадцать три dvatsat’
a tree
car машина masheena
dvadtsat tri
mashina
24 двадцать четыре dvatsat’
a chyetir-ye
flight рейс ryeys
dvadtsat chetyre
reys
metro (station) (станция) метро (stantsee-ya) myetro 25 двадцать пять dvatsat’
a pyat’
(stantsiya) metro dvadtsat pyat
no entry нет входа nyet fkhoda 30 тридцать treetsat’
net vkhoda tridtsat
no exit нет выхода nyet vikhada 40 сорок sorak
net vykhoda sorok
parking автостоянка aftostoyanka 50 пятьдесят pyadyesyat’
a
avtostoyanka pyatdesyat
petrol бензин byenzeen 60 шестьдесят shes’dyesyat
a
benzin shestdesyat
railway железная дорога zhelyezna-ya daroga 70 семьдесят syem’dyesyat
zheleznaya doroga semdesyat
railway station вокзал vagzal 80 восемьдесят vosyem’dyesyat
vokzal vosemdesyat
return ticket обратный билет obratnee
a beelye
l t 90 девяносто dyevyanosta
obratniy bilet devyanosto
seat место m sta
mye 100 сто sto
mesto sto
suburban train пригородный поезд preegaradnee 200 двести dvye
v stee
prigorodniy poezdd po-yezd dvesti
straight on прямо prya
r ma 300 триста treesta
pryamo trista
taxi такси taksee 400 четыреста chyetiryesta
taksi chetyresta
ticket билет beelyet 500 пятьсот pyat’sot
bilet pyatsot
token (for a single жетон zheton 1,000 тысяча tisyacha
metro journey) zheton tysyacha
to the left налево nalye
l va 2,000 две тысячи dvye tisyachi
nalevo dve tysyachi
to the right направо naprava
a 5,000 пять тысяч pyat’ tisyach
napravo pyat tysyach
train поезд po-yezd 1,000,000 миллион meelee-on
poezd million
tram трамвай tramvay
tramvay
trolleybus троллейбус tralyeyboos
y
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Time, Days and Dates
one minute одна минута adna meenoota
odna minuta
Numbers one hour час chas
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a o chas
odin/odna/odno half an hour полчаса polchasa
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dva/dve day день dyen’
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tri week неделя nyedye
d l-ya
4 четыре chyetir-ye nedelya
chetyre Monday понедельник panyedye
d l’neek
5 пять pyat’ ponedelnik
pyat Tuesday вторник ftorneek
6 шесть shest’ vtornik
shest Wednesday среда sryeda
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9 девять d vyat’
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devyat Saturday суббота soobota
10 десять d syat’
dye subbota
desyat Sunday воскресенье vaskryesyen’ye
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Eyewitness TRAVEL
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CUTAWA
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A
OF ALL THE MA
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3-D AERIAL
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INTERESTING DISTRICTS
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Eyewitness TRAVEL

PROJECT EDITOR Anna Streiffert

Front cover main image: Golden cupolas at Tsarkoe Selo

The information in this

GOSTINYY DVOR RESTAURANTS AND

SENNAYA PLOSHCHAD SHOPS AND MARKETS

Golden statues of the Grand

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

FINDING YOUR WAY AROUND THE SIGHTSEEING SECTION

1 Introduction to the area

Historical Buildings and

Hotels and Cafés

The area shaded in pink

2This gives a bird’s eye view

of interesting and important

ST PETERSBURG AREA MAP

Numbers refer to each Practical information lists all the

A Visitors’ Checklist provides

Story boxes highlight unique

4 St Petersburg’s major sights

FOUR GREAT DAYS IN

I n just 300 years St Petersburg has

• Icons and incense

TWO ADULTS allow at least US$180

St Petersburg – View of the Troizkoi Bridge, by 19th-century artist J Schroeder

FFor additional map symbols see back flap

3 & ; ) / ": " 3 &

%& :" 4BEPWBZB

( 3*# 0&% " ;)

(see p60) stand on the eastern tip 4"

are bustling in the summer,

former imperial Winter

2USSIAN Palacee (see pp92–3),

dominates this grand

800 1000 1200 1400 1600

PETER THE GREAT spent drilling toy soldiers as a child

1680 1690 1700 1710

THE PETTICOAT PERIOD

1720 1730 1740 1750

1717 Peter travels to 1730–40 1741 Anna’s successor Ivan VI is 1754

A Window on the West

The Carpenter Tsar

Based on Amsterdam, the original city grid

THE STRELTSY REBELLION

WHERE TO SEE PETER THE

The Battle of Poltava

Peter the Great’s workshop, the Summer Palace

CATHERINE THE GREAT However, the necessities of war sub-

WAR AND PEACE

1760 1780 1800

1773–5 1782 1796 Death of 1812 Napoleon

A CITY OF RICH AND POOR

THE NAPOLEONIC INVASION

1822 Abolition 1833 Pushkin 1855 Death of Nicholas I; Leo 1865–9

1820 1840 1860

1825 The Decembrist 1861 Emancipation

The Enlightened Empress

The Temple alludes to

Royal Guards Swear Allegiance

CATHERINE THE GREAT

Count Alexey Orlov, brother

WHERE TO SEE THE NEO-