Traditional

Embroideries
Mirror work
 Introduction...
• It is type of embroidery which attaches a small piece of
mirror.
• Done- throughout Asia.
• Also found in Pakistan, China and Indonesia.
 History.
• Traces- 17th century in Iran
• It was brought in India by
travelers, during the Mughal era.
• It was originally done
by- MICA.
• Which was replaced by
glass later.
“For the peasant women of Gujarat, a needle is her pen
with which she gives expression to her creativity and
reiterates her relationship with religion and nature”
 Sources of Inspiration…
• In the southern parts of Asia began this artwork with pairs of
scissors.
• It was consistently made wet.
• This was done to give any different shapes and trimmed
 Materials used
• Fabric
• Embroidery loop
• Needle
• Mirror
• Embroidery floss
 Process
• Secure ur fabric.
• Place the shisha and secure with cross stitch

• Now duplicate the foundation stitch but

turn- 45 degree
 • Now duplicate the foundation stitch
but turn- 45 degree

• Do a blanket stitch, thread the needle

under your foundation stitches from the
center to the edge
 Present Scenario.

• It is a significant local craft

• Famous for –Chaniya Cholis, torans, accessories, apparels,
bags, etc.
• Deepika Padukon flaunts vibrant mirror work in the movie
Ram Leela.
 Other products

Chaniya choli

Caps for navratri

chapals
 -By Arpita Mehta

Summer
clutch
Soof embroidery
 Introduction
• Done by the Sodha, Rajput
and Megwar communities.
• Counted thread styles
• Single stitch- Soof
• Designs cannot be pre-
drawn.
SOOF EMBROIDERY done by the Sodha community

People of the Sodha community migrated from Sindh to Kutch after the
1971 Indo-Pakistan war and first settled around Jhura village in refugee
camps. Today, their population is over 25,000 people, and they have
spread to 32 villages mostly in the Pachcham region of Kutch. Their
costumes are different from that of other communities living in this area.
The men wear a white dhoti, white kameez and turban wrapped around
the head, with a long tassel hanging on the neck. The women wear a
ghaghra, kurti kanjari (a layered blouse) and odhani with a lot of silver
and gold jewellery. Their clothing resembles the costumes worn in the
desert region of Rajasthan.
The soof embroidery done by the women of the Sodha
community is unique in style and technique. The motifs are
geometric and patterns are formed with tessellated triangular
forms. The embroidery is done from the reverse side.
Patterns are created counting the warp and weft threads that
are used as the base grid. The motifs are not drawn on the
fabric. The embroiderer plans the overall look and
manipulates the motifs as she gets on with the embroidery.
The embroidery is created by filling in areas, as in satin
stitch. They embroider clothes such as blouses, ghaghras,
bukanis worn by men over a turban, and home decorations
like torans to decorate the doorways, and chaklas to
decorate the walls. Sodha women embroider folk games, like
chopat, as part of their trousseau.
 Soof
embroidery
 Origin…
Literally translating to „neat and clean‟, this style of embroidery is characterized by
geometric patterns. Its v-shaped designs called „leher‟ or wave and triangle patterns
are highly stylised. But the designs on the fabric cannot be pre drawn. The detailed
geometrical patterns are left to the discretion of the craftswomen who have a talent
for working out geometrical shapes as they weave. They mentally picture the motifs
and then work the embroidery from the reverse of the fabric. The embroidery is
often mistaken for machine work because it is so neat and perfectly arranged.
These patterns are in high demand on saris, bedsheets, linen and tableware.

Motifs…
 Rhythmic patterns.
 Begins with triangles
 Peacocks, mandals
 Geometric patterns
 Process…
• Fine colored threads are used
• On the face side, the stitches are 1cm along.
• Successive stitches are done on one side fabric, which makes a
dense patterning.
• Small mirrors are added
• Various items like :bedspreads, wall hangings, cushion covers ,
cradle cloth, jackets, atc
Motifs…
counted thread embroidery
done by using darning stitch.
The motifs are inspired by
nature and are geometric in
form
 products

Shawl tunic
Kharek Embroidery…
Kharek with mirror work
 Introduction…
• Done by the Sodha, Rajput
and Megwar communities.
• Artisans outline the geometric
pattern first, then fill it.
• Reminiscent of the tactile
textural quality of date trees
 Origin…
Introduction:
Kharek is a traditionally practiced embroidery by the sodha
community and later by the Harijans to adorn their kanjara / tunic
like top and choli/ blouse. This form of art is influenced by Central
Asia.
The geometric patterns are created with detailed counting of
threads in wrap and weft. Kharek embroidery is beautifully done
with vibrant colors which fill the entire fabric incorporating mirrors
in them.

Black color is used to create the outline of the grid making

the motifs to stand out. Traditionally, satin stitch was also used
along with cross stitch.
• By the Sindh and was brought to the regions of the Banni
by Meghwals and Islamic pastoralist.
Motifs…
Pakko embroidery…
 Introduction…
• Done by the Sodha, Rajput and
Meghwar communities.
• Word “pakko” literally means solid,
referring to the dense stitches.
• Covers the whole base cloth.
• Free hand drawing.
• Square chain stitch
 Motifs…
• Peacock
• Parrots
• Scorpions
• Elephants
• Flowers
• Done in
geometric
Patterns
and are
symmetrical.
 Products
Skirt

Cushion cover
bags
RABARI…
 Introduction…
• Done by Rabari communities of kutch.
• Nomadic communities that rear cattle
• Designs: boldand usually derived from mythology and daily
lives.
 Origin…
• Integral part of their lives.
• Originally from Rajasthan that came into Kutch on a south
west route from Jaisalmer.
• Tradionally : used for dowry.
• Was stopped later
 Motifs…
• Temple motifs : the power of goddess.
• Women with pot on their head.
• Tree motifs: local baval, bushes as food for herds, shade from sun.
• Scorpion motifs – protect against the real threat and symbolically
ensure fertility.
• Peacock
• parrot.
• Camels.
 Products

Kaftan

Rabari Silk
Skirt on
HauteLook
 Potli bag

Cushion
Jats…
 Introduction…
• Sunni Muslims who are thought
to have migrated to Kutch via
Sindh from Iran back in 5th
century
• They are cattleman
• They migrated in search of new
grass
 Origin..
• It relies on their oral tradition and sporadic reference :
migrated from Greece
• Arrived to India, Germany, Italy, Iraq, Iran, Baluchistan and
Sindh.
• They have their distinctive embroidery style
• Whole cloth is embroidered
• Clothes : orange, red, blue and yellow color are used.
• Mirrors are used
• Covering of the space around the mirror is done by chain
stitch and creeper stitch
 Motifs…
• Images of the dolls
• Birds,
• Animals
All these are created in an embossed manner, using interlace
of button hole and chain stitch
Products…
 Introduction…
• Small group of muslim cowherds
• They live in a small cluster of 11 villages
• Migrated from the middMMle east around the 16th
century
• Houses are highly decorated
• It is mainly geometric and floral
Mutwas
Mutwa is a Muslim caste who came from
region of Sindh-Pakistan and settled in desert
region of Kutch “Banni”. One of their sect is
also known as Maldhari.
Mutwa work is embroidered by women of the
Mutwa caste. In old times, women of this
caste were not go out from the house
anywhere unless there was an emergency.
Because of their lifestyle they live at home all
the time. They use their spare time to do
embroidery and make decorative pieces for
house or Wedding dresses for self or their
daughters.
Materials:
Fabric: Any type of fabric can use for the embroidery.
Needle
Tiny Aabhlas or Mirrors
Embroidery Silk Threads (Now days they use all kind of Threads)

Process:
The threads are inserted in the eye of the needle.
Extra threads are cut using scissors.
The threads are interlaced around the round mirror through the needle.
Threads are pulled tightly for the perfection.
Mirror and cloth are looped together using thread to do the mirror work. The
mirrors are interlocked completely with the threads.
Varieties:
Toran, Scarfs, Mutwa shawls, Kapadu or kanchali (backless blouse),
Paheranu (wrapped skirt), A Ghagharo (stitched skirt), Traditional Bridal
dress, Handbags, Bed covers, Camel

Patterns: Many designs are inspired by mythology and desert

habitation. It is an interesting collaboration of three embroiderieat the
Pakko, Soof and Aari along with tiny mirrors. They create such pieces the
people are amazed.