Kasuti Embroidery

Making sense of Handloom

and Handicraft
Introduction
Origin of Kasuti Embroidery

India under Chalukya Dynasty- Old Dharwad in Uttar Karnataka

7 Century C.E
th
.

• The Karnataka Handicrafts Development Corporation

(KHDC) holds a geographical indications (GI) protection
for Kasuti embroidery
• The name Kasuti is derived from the words Kai (meaning
hand) and Suti (meaning cotton), indicating an activity that
is done using cotton and hands.

Practiced by women
History • Kasuti flourished and underwent different experiments in Dharwad,
Vijayapura, Bagalkot and Belgaum districts, which were ruled by the
Chalukyan and Vijayanagar kings.
• Lambani clan left their traditional home of Rajasthan and settled
down in Karnataka and brought the Kasuti craft along with them.
• The women courtiers in the Mysore Kingdom in the 17th century
were expected to be adept in 64 arts, with Kasuti being one of them.
• The Lingayats were thought to be experts in this craft.
• Sarees embroidered with Kasuti were expected to be a part of the
bridal trousseau
• One saree made of black silk with Kasuti embroidery called
Chandrakali saree was of premier importance.
 Nowadays, pattern to be
embroidered is marked with
charcoal or pencil.
They are always
vertical, horizontal
and diagonal.

Needle and thread is

selected.
Two to six threads are
used together to
embroider a unit on
Stitches the fabric.
Embroidery is done without Technique
knots.
Embroidery is started with a
back stitch without knotting
The number of in the thread.
strands determines
the size of the
stitch. It can be done only by
counting the warp and weft
threads.

Gavanti
• Derived from kannada word
“ganoti or gantu” that means
“knot”.
• The most common and
simple stitch
• Contains back stitch or
double running stitch where
the first running stitch is
filled by the second running
stitch on the same line.
• Looks similar in both sides.
• Done in straight line.
Types Of Stitches
Muragi
• Contains a zigzag running
stitch.
• Similar on both sides of the
fabric.
• It is used to fill-up patterns.
Menthi
• Derived from Fenugreek
(methi) seeds.
• Ordinary cross stitch that for
rich effect.
• Appears heavy thus used for
filling purpose.
• Not reversible- cross filling
in front; vertical and
horizontal on back.
• Requires more length of
thread.
• Mainly used in architectural
patterns.
Negi
• Also called Neygi , the word
‘ney’ means weave in
Kannada.
• The overall effect of a woven
design.
• Involve ordinary running and
darning stitches.
• Tend to be mirror images on
either side.
• Mainly used for larger
designs.
 Motifs

Shivling Temple Palanquin Geometric Elephant Flower

Motif Motif Motif Rangoli Motif Motif
• They range from mythological and architectural to the beautiful flora and fauna.
• Also inspired from religious symbols that women could relate to.
• The temple tanks, deepa sthambas, palanquins in which murtis were taken in procession are used as embroidery motifs.
• Geometrical motifs are really popular especially Gopuram (temple tops).
• Chariots, elephants, the sacred tulsi plant,rangoli, sacred animals like peacocks, nandi bull , pigeon are seen near the pallu.
• The motifs were never traced and were purely inspirational.

The domestic animals like the ox
were rewarded for their selfless
service with kasuti embroidered
cloth to cover their backs.
Kasuti embroidered saris were worn
and gifted on special occasions like
weddings and festivals.
It started as a domestic art wherein
women took inspiration from
buildings which men constructed to
keep pace with them.
5 2
Purpose
4 3
The farm women are free from farm
activities by March till June and
utilize this time by doing kasuti to
earn livelihood.
It started as a homecraft as it was
considered a compliment for
individuals and later developed into
a cottage industry.
 • Main Occupation for many rural women.
• Dates to Chalukya Period
• Women in Mysore Kingdom were supposed to be adept in 64 arts.
• This was one of them.
• Design is influenced by everyday surroundings.

Socio-Cultural •
•
Eg: Rangoli Patterns, Gopurams of temples, the lotus, the tuisi katti
Motifs were also derived from Shaivite Philosophy
Context • Frequently used colous: Red, Purple, Green, Orange and Crimson
• Essential Part of the wedding trousseau.
• The trousseau included Kanas and Chandrakali Saree
• Kanas:Saree Blouse
• Chandrakali Saree: Black Silk Saree with red Border and Kasuti Emboirdery
• Also given to pregnant women
• Mother trains their daughters and the art is passed on.
 • Kasuti designs are also made using machines
• Dharwad Kasuti got the Geographical Identification (GI) tag in 2006
• A Kasuti centre was set up in Hubli, Karnataka by the Department of Social Welfare, Government
of Karnataka to encourage the Kasuti culture.
• Traces of this embroidery in salwar suits, dress materials, scarfs, footwear, home decor.
Evolution • The materials are not limited to Cotton anymore. They have started ranging from silk to other
varieties including nylon.
• They have a network of exporters who aid in exporting their products to countries like Australia,
USA, Ireland, Dubai etc.
• Internet is a major factor to get their name out in the international market.
 The key success factors of Indian regional embroidery ‘Kasuti’ include-
• Customer specific designs and products

Evolution • Incorporating Global styles

• Working with exporters
• Participating in International fairs/bazaars
• Online presence and social media marketing
 • Undertaken by IDF (Initiatives for Development Foundation)
• Under the Name Kai Krafts.
• Name stems from the Kannada word for “hand” or “kai” and reflects the mission to promote handmade
products from North Karnataka.

Promotion • Aims to improve the earning potential.

• Fuses traditional crafts with products geared for a contemporary market.
• Ensures that the artisans are paid fair wages and that these crafts endure.
• Involved in training local women so they can generate additional income
• Low income loans to expand business.
 • Ideate relevant contemporary design ideas
• Tie ups with Brands
• Push towards seasonal exclusive collection, E.g.: Diwali
• Connect weavers directly with consumers through “My Handloom”
Business Model • Create an online presence to great a stir in the modern market
• Involve with wedding stylists to increase its presence in the wedding attire
segment
• Connect with Export traders to create demand in the International Market
• Host Handicraft fares in campuses, offices and Buildings
 Product Collection

This collection of table decorations an ode to the time we got during this
pandemic to spend with our family. We got to share so many meals with our
family. We shared laughs and tears while sitting with our family around the meals
prepared by blessed hands. We are fortunate to have food on our table during
these tough times, but many artisans around the country are not so lucky. Through
this collection we hope that we can help them grow their business and spread it all
over the world. We have designed this collection using economical supplies
making it easier for the artisans to make them and will attract many buyers. Thus,
ROI is expected to be good. The materials used are easy to wash and care for, so it
can be used for longer period of time. We have used contrast white and red color
for base along with various colour threads making it festive and fancy. While
many people visit during festival times these products will add aesthetic and
traditional touch to the decoration and gather many praises.
Aman- Placemat
Kareena Kalla- Table Mat

• Fabric Used: Cotton because economical

• Fancier versions- Ikkal Silk Fabric
• Embroidery with black thread
• Geometric Pattern
Sumedha Totla- Coaster

• Coasters are small products, relatively easy to

embroider. Makes the process less tedious.
• Can incorporate a variety of motifs and colours to
create a range.
• The motifs used here are inspired temples and
geometric patterns.
• Murgi, gavanthi and menthi stitches used in the
product.
Varsha Rani- Table Runner

Muragi Stitch

Gavanti Stitch

Lotus Motif

White Cotton Plain

Weave Base

Red Thread for

Embroidery
 Article
Kasuti, a Kannada term, is a conventional type of folk embroidery practiced in Karnataka, India. Kasuti work is exceptionally labor-intensive and includes setting up to 5,000
lines by hand. It is generally made on dresswear like Ilkal sarees, Ravike, and Angi or Kurtas. Traditionally a black saree with a red border from the Ilkal region of Karnataka,
with Kasuti embroidery was given as a gift to the brides and a beautiful saree blouse called ‟Kanas‟ from Ilkal was embroidered with Kasuti embroidery for a pregnant lady It
has been a main occupation and source of income for many rural women from that region. The history of Kasuti dates to the Chalukya period. The name Kasuti is derived
from the words Kai (meaning hand) and Suti (meaning cotton), indicating an activity that is done using cotton and hands. The women courtiers in the Mysore Kingdom in the
17th century was expected to be adept in 64 arts, with Kasuti being one of them. This embroidery is done for reason and not mere adornment of fabric. The Chandrakalli saree
is the only bridal wear in India with blue or black color and is regarded very auspicious. The women of Karnataka turned for design to their own surroundings and chose the
ones that appealed to their religious, artistic, or domestic instincts. The religious motifs are the Gopurams of temples, the chariot and palanquin in which the deity is carried on
ceremonial occasions, the lotus, the tuisi katti which is the enclosure for the sacred tulsi plant. Elephants with howdahs, peacocks with spread plumage, birds of different
kinds, animals and flowers are standard motifs. The motifs are also derived from Shaivite Philosophy. The most frequently used colors are red, purple, green, orange and
crimson. Patterns in only one or two colors are extremely rare and the usual color combinations are orange, green and crimson or purple, green, orange, and red, the brighter
shades of these being preferred. Kasuti stitches are horizontal, vertical, or diagonal. The stitches are done by counting weft and warp thread. The stitches are made without
knotting the thread. Two to six threads are used together to embroider a unit on the fabric. The size of the stitch depends on the number of strands. The embroidery starts with
a back stitch. Different varieties of stitches are combined to obtain a pattern. Four types of stitches are used in Kasuti embroidery-Gavanti, Murgi, Negi and Menthi. Kasuti
has always been a domestic art. Traditionally it was a custom to give gifts if Kasuti embroidered garments to the relatives when a child is born in the family. The mother used
to train her daughter this art from an early age. It is considered a traditional art and passed from generation to generation.
Thank You