Boston 6 Full Book

PD
F
Boston
PDF ebook
Edition 6th Edition
Release Date Nov 2015
Pages 256
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4
How to Use This Book
Top Sights features provide in-depth
coverage of the city’s very best sights.
easy-to-use
sections BOSTON COMMON
Plan Your Trip Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:
Your planning tool kit

Photos, lists and suggestions to
1 SIGHTS 3 ENTERTAINMENT
help you create your perfect trip. 5 EATING 7 SHOPPING
DRINKING & SPORTS &
6 NIGHTLIFE 2 ACTIVITIES
Explore
All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference,
Your complete city guide starting with their most preferred option. Additionally:
Top Sights features, in-depth Sights are arranged in the geographic order that
reviews and local tips. we suggest you visit them and, within this order, by
author preference.
Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price
Understand range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these
ranges, by author preference.
Get more from your trip
Learn about the big picture, so you These symbols and abbreviations give vital
can make sense of the city. information for each listing:
Must-visit recommendation
Survival Guide Sustainable or green recommendation
No payment required
Your at-a-glance reference
Vital practical information to help % Telephone number f Ferry
you have a smooth trip. h Opening hours j Tram
p Parking d Train
Nonsmoking Y Boston T
plus
n
a Air-conditioning apt apartments
i Internet access d double rooms
W Wi-fi access dm dorm beds
Full-color s Swimming pool q quad rooms
map section v Vegetarian selection r rooms
E English-language menu s single rooms
31 4
Key on p313
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42-map-section-bln8.indd 314 23/11/2012

42-map-section-bln8.indd
3:15:32 PM 315 23/11/2012 3:15:32 PM
Plan Your Trip 1
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Boston
“ All you’ve got to do is decide to go
and the hardest part is over.
So go!”
TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PL ANET
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Mara Vorhees
Contents
Plan
PlanYour Trip page 1
YourTrip 4
Welcome to Boston.........4 If You Like…....................18 Eating........................ 30
Boston’s Top 10................6 Month by Month............20 Drinking & Nightlife...33
What’s New.....................13 With Kids........................23 Entertainment........... 35
Need to Know..................14 Like a Local....................25 Shopping....................37
Top Itineraries................16 Walk the Sports & Activities.....39
Freedom Trail................26
Explore Boston 42
Neighborhoods at Downtown & Seaport District &
a Glance.....................44 Waterfront......................79 South Boston..............129
Charlestown...................48 South End Cambridge...................138
& Chinatown...................94
West End & Streetcar Suburbs......155
North End.......................55 Back Bay.......................105
Day Trips
Beacon Hill & Kenmore from Boston.............163
Boston Common............67 Square & Fenway..........117
Sleeping....................178
Understand Boston 189

Boston Today....... .......190 Arts & Architecture.....201 Universities &
Colleges.......................204
History..........................192
Survival Guide 207
Transportation............208 Directory A–Z...............213 Index..............................219
Boston Maps 227

BOSTON GLOBE/GETTY IMAGES ©
PAUL SOUDERS/GETTY IMAGES ©
(left) Zakim Bunker
Hill Bridge p53
RICH GAGNON/GETTY IMAGES ©

(above) Harvard St,
Allston p142
(right) Fenway Park p119

Home of the Boston
Red Sox
Cambridge
p138 Charlestown
p48
West End
& North End
p55
Beacon Hill &
Boston Common p67 Downtown &
Waterfront p79
Back Bay Seaport District &
Kenmore p105
Square & South Boston
Fenway South End p129
p117 & Chinatown
p94
Streetcar
Suburbs
p155
Welcome to
Boston
Boston’s history recalls revolution
and transformation, and it is still
among the country’s most forward-
thinking, barrier-breaking cities.
Art & Music Food

The arts have thrived in Boston ever since A word of advice: when in Boston, eat as
the 19th century, when this cultural capital much seafood as possible. Local special-
was dubbed the Athens of America. Cer- ties include the ‘sacred cod,’ fresh steamed
tainly, the intellectual elite enjoyed their lobster, oysters on the half-shell and thick,
fine paintings and classical music, but they creamy chowder. You can eat seafood
were also dedicated to spreading the cul- around the city, but especially in the fish-
tural wealth, establishing museums, librar- centered Seaport District, where it’s accom-
ies and symphony orchestras. Today, the panied by spectacular harbor views. The
lucky residents of (and visitors to) Boston creatures of the sea are your top priority,
benefit from their largesse. These venerable but don’t miss the chance to devour deli-
institutions play an integral role on Boston’s cious servings of pasta in the North End
cultural stage, which has significantly ex- and to sample spicy Asian dishes in China-
panded to include dynamic contemporary town. Trendy fusion restaurants draw on all
art and music scenes. of these eclectic influences to present con-
temporary cuisine that is uniquely Boston.
Sports
‘Fanatic’ is no idle word here. Boston fans History
are passionate about sports. With the four-
time world-champion Patriots, the long- For all intents and purposes, Boston is the
overdue World Series–winning Red Sox, the oldest city in the USA, and you can hardly
winningest basketball team in history, the walk a step over its cobblestone streets
Celtics, and the highly successful hockey without running into some historic site. The
team, the Bruins, there is a lot to be Freedom Trail winds its way around the
passionate about. Boston’s college teams city, connecting 16 significant Revolution-
also inspire fierce loyalties and staunch ary sites. These are the places where history
rivalries. No less spirited are the country’s unfolded: from the first public school in
oldest and most celebrated running event, America to Boston’s first church building to
the world-famous Boston Marathon, and the sites linked to America’s fight for independ-
world’s largest two-day rowing event, the ence from Britain – Boston is, in effect, one
Head of the Charles Regatta. enormous outdoor history museum.
S GREG PANOSIAN/GETTY IMAGES ©
Why I Love Boston

By Mara Vorhees, Author
Boston is wicked smaaht. I love that Boston is motivated not by money or politics, but by
learning. The academic institutions are a source of innovative art, architecture and ideas
that we all benefit from. The students provide a renewable source of energy and vibrancy
that permeate the city. Yet for all the fancy buildings and big ideas, Boston is still a city
of neighborhoods and local people. The students may or may not be here in four years,
but my neighbors are here for the long haul. They are the cogs that keep the city running,
moving, growing, remembering the past and creating the future.
For more about our author, see p256.
Above: Public Garden (p69)

6
Boston’s
Top 10
7
Freedom Trail (p26) Fenway Park (p119)
1 For a sampler of Boston’s famous
revolutionary sights, follow the red- 2 There might as well be signs on I-90
reading ‘Now entering Red Sox
brick road. It leads 2.5 miles through the Nation.’ The intensity of baseball fans has
center of Boston, from Boston Common only grown since the Boston Red Sox broke
to the Bunker Hill Monument, and traces their agonizing 86-year losing streak and
the events leading up to and following the won the 2004 World Series. The home-
War for Independence. The Freedom Trail town team repeated its feat in 2007 and
is well marked and easy to follow on your again in 2013, which means it continues
own – an ideal strategy if you actually wish to sell out every game. Catch the boys at
to enter some of the historic buildings and Fenway Park, the iconic old-style ball park
museums. Otherwise, there are plenty of that has hosted the Sox for over a century.
tours that follow the trail, including the
2Kenmore Square & Fenway
National Park Service’s free option.
BELOW LEFT: GEORGE WASHINGTON STATUE, PUBLIC
GARDEN (P69)
2Freedom Trail
SEAN PAVONE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
ERDAL BAYHAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
RICK FRIEDMAN/CORBIS © RICHARD CAVALLERI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
8 PL A N YO U R TRI P B O S T O N ’ S T O P 1 0
9
LISI CAI/GETTY IMAGES ©
PL A N YO U R TRI P B O S T O N ’ S T O P 1 0
Harvard Copley Charles River
Square (p142) Square (p110) Esplanade (p110)
3 Harvard Sq is over-
flowing with book- 4 Boston’s most
exquisite architecture 5 When we talk about
the ‘waterfront,’ we’re
stores and boutiques, is clustered around this usually talking about the
coffee shops and record stately Back Bay plaza. Boston Harbor. But there’s
shops, street performers The square’s centerpiece a second, equally appealing
and street dwellers. is Henry Hobson Richard- waterfront along Charles
Many Cantabridgians right- son’s celebrated Roman- River. The Esplanade is a
ly complain that the square esque masterpiece, Trinity long and narrow riverside
has lost its edge – once- Church. It’s lovely in reality park that offers endless
independently-owned and even lovelier as reflect- opportunities for outdoor
shops are continually gob- ed in the mirrored facade of recreation, from play-
bled up by national chains – the modern John Hancock grounds and picnic areas
but Harvard Sq is still a Tower. This assemblage to bike trails and ball parks.
vibrant, exciting place to faces off against the ele- There’s no swimming in the
hang out. The university gant neo-Renaissance river, but there is sunbath-
is the centerpiece of the facade of the Boston Public ing, sailing, kayaking and
square, with ivy-covered Library. The plaza itself is canoeing. The Hatch Me-
architecture and excellent peppered with whimsical morial Shell is a venue for
museums. Harvard Sq is and serious pieces com- (free) outdoor entertain-
also a hotbed of colonial memorating the city’s ment, including the annual
and revolutionary history, biggest sporting event, the July 4 concert by the
from the Cambridge Boston Marathon, for which Boston Pops.
Common to Mt Auburn Copley Sq is the finish line.
2Back Bay
Cemetery. LEFT: TRINITY CHURCH (P107)
1Cambridge 1Back Bay
10
Boston Harbor Islands (p164) Art Museums (p201)
6 If you’re dreaming of an island vaca-
tion, you’ve come to the right place. 7 Boston’s museums are famed for their
collections of Asian, American and
The Boston Harbor Islands consist of 34 European art from days gone by. But this
islands, many of which are open for trail- is the 21st century, and Boston artists and
walking, birdwatching, camping, kayaking curators still have something to say about
and swimming. Explore a 19th-century it – as indicated by the city’s flourishing

fort at Georges Island; walk the trails and contemporary scene. All of Boston’s major
lounge on the beach at Spectacle Island; art institutions have undergone massive
or climb Boston’s iconic oldest lighthouse upgrades in recent years, demonstrating
at Little Brewster. Mostly operated by the that this city is at the forefront of artistic
National Park Service, the Harbor Islands endeavor. The only disappointment is that
offer a unique opportunity for outdoor there is never enough time to see them all.
adventure – and they’re just a quick boat RIGHT: INSTITUTE OF CONTEMPORARY ART (P131)
ride from downtown Boston. BELOW: BOSTON
LIGHT, LITTLE BREWSTER ISLAND (P165) 1Arts & Architecture
2Day Trips from Boston
SHORETIE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
11
TANIA A CHAU/GETTY IMAGES ©
North End (p62)
8
GARY D ERCOLE/GETTY IMAGES ©
What’s so special about

eating in the North End?
For starters, it actually feels
like you’re in Italy. As one of
Boston’s oldest neighbor-
hoods, the narrow streets and
brick buildings exude an Old
World ambience that is only
enhanced by its Italian-
American population. It
sounds like Italy, too, with lo-
cal residents carrying on lively
conversations in the mother
tongue. Most importantly, it
tastes like Italy. Packed with
romantic restaurants, cozy
cafes and aromatic bakeries,
the North End will delight the
senses and the stomach.
5West End & North End
12
Walden Pond (p168)
9
ZACK FRANK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
In 1854, Henry David Thoreau left the
comforts of Concord and built himself
a rustic cabin on the shores of Walden Pond,
where he lived for two years. From this re-
treat, he wrote his famous treatise on
nature, Walden; or, Life in the Woods.

Surrounded by acres of forest, the glacial
pond remains a respite for children and
swimmers who frolic in its cool waters, bird-
watchers and walkers who stroll along the
pleasant footpath, and nature lovers of all
sorts. RIGHT: REPLICA OF HENRY DAVID THOREAU'S CABIN,
WALDEN POND (P168)
2Day Trips from Boston
COLEONG/GETTY IMAGES ©
Beacon Hill (p67)

10 With an intriguing history, distinctive architecture and unparalleled neighbor-
hood charm, Beacon Hill is Boston’s most prestigious address. It’s hard to beat
the utter loveliness of the place: the narrow cobblestone streets lit with gas lanterns; the
distinguished brick town houses decked with purple windowpanes and blooming flower
boxes; and streets such as stately Louisburg Sq that capture the neighborhood’s gran-
deur. The commercial street that traverses the flat of the hill – Charles St – is Boston’s
most enchanting spot for browsing boutiques and haggling over antiques.
7Beacon Hill & Boston Common
13
What’s New
PL A N YO U R TRI P W h at ’ s N e w
Harvard Art Museums Verb Hotel
The university’s expanded and renovated Located behind Fenway Park, Boston’s
art museum – designed by architect Renzo newest spot to sleep is a mid-century mo-
Piano – brings three distinct collections to tel, renovated into a hip tribute to the city’s
coexist under one exquisite roof. (p142) rock-and-roll roots. (p186)
Edward M Kennedy Institute for Frost Ice Bar

the US Senate As if it wasn’t cold enough outside, we’re
Complementing the JFK Presidential now invited to don parkas and perch on ice
Library at Columbia Point, the new EMK blocks, while sipping frozen cocktails and
Institute contains high-tech, interactive admiring Boston-themed ice sculptures.
exhibits exploring the inner workings of (p88)
the US Senate, past and present. (p134)
Stage Nightclub
Design Museum Boston Boston’s nightlife just got more interesting,
Design is all around you, which is why this with the opening of this Vaudevillian
new pop-up museum (www.designmuseum nightclub: acrobats, aerialists, comedians
boston.org) hosts exhibits and events in and clowns perform while folks drink,
public spaces all around town. dance and gawk. (p102)
Boston Public Market Late-night Transportation

The long-awaited market on the Greenway Late-night revelers no longer need to head
is open every day from May to November, home two hours before last call. Now the
showcasing seasonal produce, local meats T runs until 2am on Friday and Saturday
and fresh fish from New England. (p87) nights.
New England Aquarium For more recommendations

The centerpiece Giant Ocean Tank has a and reviews, see lonelyplanet.
brand new coral reef, an expanded stock of com/usa/boston
sea creatures and new windows and
lighting by which to see them. (p81)
Museum of Science
The intriguing and interactive exhibits
in the new Hall of Human Life encourage
visitors to ask and explore how their own
bodies and brains work. (p57)
14
Need to Know
For more information, see Survival Guide (p207)
Currency
US dollar ($) Daily Costs Advance Planning
One month before Reserve a
Language Budget: place to stay. Budget travelers,
English this means you! Buy your tickets
Less than $100
for the Boston Symphony
Visas ¨¨Dorm bed: $50 Orchestra, the Boston Red Sox
Citizens of many countries ¨¨Pizza or dumplings: $5–10 or your favorite Boston band.
are eligible for the Visa Waiver ¨¨Certain museum nights and One week before Make reserva-
Program, which requires prior walking tours: free tions for weekend dinners.
approval via the Electronic
¨¨Ride on the T: $2.10–2.65 One day before Buy tickets for
System for Travel Authorization
(ESTA). tours and museums with timed
Midrange: entrances. Check the weather
Money $100–$250 forecast.
ATMs widely available. Credit ¨¨Double room in a midrange
cards accepted at most hotels, hotel: $100–250 Useful Websites
restaurants and shops.
¨¨Meal at a midrange Lonely Planet (www.lonely
restaurant: $15–25 planet.com/usa/boston)
Cell Phones
¨¨Museum admission: $15–25 Destination information, hotel
Most US cell-phone systems
¨¨Short taxi ride: $15–20 bookings, traveler forum and
are incompatible with the GSM
more.
900/1800 standard used
throughout Europe and Asia. Top End: My Secret Boston (www.
more than $250 mysecretboston.com) Not that
Time secret restaurants, nightlife,
¨¨Double room in a top-end cultural and family events.
Eastern Standard Time (GMT/
hotel: from $250
UTC minus five hours) Blue Mass Group (www.blue-
¨¨Meal at a top-end massgroup.com) Left-leaning
Tourist Information restaurant: from $30
political junkies report on State
Boston Common Information Ki- ¨¨Concerts, events and other House goings-on.
osk (GBCVB Visitors Center; Map activities: from $50
p234; www.bostonusa.com; Universal Hub (www.universal
Boston Common; h8:30am- hub.com) Round-up of local
5pm; YPark St) is a good news, with rich local commen-
starting place. tary.
Greater Boston Convention &
Visitors Bureau (www.boston
usa.com) The official guide to
what to do and where to stay.
15
WHEN TO GO
Boston
°C/°F Temp Rainfall Inches/mm
Peak travel times
30/86 12/300
are autumn and
spring, with lovely 15/59 9/225
weather and many
PL A N YO U R TRI P N eed to K now

6/150
events. Summer 0/32
is humid but also -15/5 3/75

busy.
-30/-22 0
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Arriving in Boston Getting Around Sleeping

Boston Logan International ¨¨T (Subway) The quickest Boston is a relatively expen-
Airport Take the subway (blue and easiest way to get to sive place to stay, due to its
line) or bus (silver line) to most destinations. Runs from busy conference and aca-
central Boston from 5:30am to 5:30am or 6am until 12:30am demic calendars and popu-
12:30am ($2.10 to $2.65); or (Sunday to Thursday) or 2am lar tourist appeal. Book in
catch a taxi for $25 to $30. (Friday and Saturday). advance online for the best
¨¨Hubway Boston’s new bike- prices. Budget travelers,
South Station Located in cen-
share program, with more than especially, will find there
tral Boston on the red line.
a thousand bikes available for is a shortage of affordable
Manchester Airport Catch travelers to borrow. options, so book your beds
the shuttle bus to Logan ($72); as early as possible. A few
should be booked in advance. ¨¨MBTA bus Supplements the
welcoming guesthouses
subway system.
TF Green Airport Take the
and smaller hotels welcome
commuter rail to South Station
midrange travelers, while
($11). For much more on many hotels of all sizes
getting around see cater to high-enders. Prices
p209 increase dramatically dur-
ing peak travel times.
For much more on
arrival see p208
Useful Websites
¨¨Boston Green Tourism
(www.bostongreentourism.
org) Includes up-to-date
listings of ecofriendly hotels.
¨¨Boston Luxury Hotels
(www.bostonluxuryhotels.
com) Individualized service for
upscale travelers.
¨Üniversity Hotels (www.
universityhotels.net) Perfect
GOING GREEN IN BOSTON for finding accommodations
near a particular university.
¨¨Get around town by walking, biking or taking the T. ¨¨Lonely Planet
(lonelyplanet.com/usa/
¨¨Patronize hotels and restaurants that are making efforts
boston/hotels) Scores of
to reduce their environmental impact. Look for the S icon
properties from budget hostels
in the listings.
to luxury apartments.
¨¨Check out the environmental education exhibits at the
Harvard Museum of Natural History, the Museum of Science
For much more on
and the New England Aquarium.
sleeping see p178
16
Top Itineraries
Day One Day Two
Downtown & Waterfront (p79) Back Bay (p105)
M Spend your first day in Boston fol-
lowing the Freedom Trail, which M Spend the morning admiring Bos-
ton’s most architecturally significant
starts on the Boston Common and continues collection of buildings, clustered around
through Downtown. There’s not time to go Copley Sq. Admire the art and books at
inside every museum, but you can admire the Boston Public Library, ogle the mag-
the architecture and learn the history. nificent stained-glass windows at Trinity
Highlights include the Old South Meeting Church and gaze at the clean lines on the
House, the Old State House and Faneuil John Hancock Tower.
Hall.
Lunch Treat yourself to some smart
Lunch Grab a bite from one of the many fine dining at the Courtyard (p112).
outlets in Quincy Market (p86).
Kenmore Square & Fenway (p117)
West End & North End (p55) Your afternoon is reserved for one of
In the afternoon, the Freedom Trail R Boston’s magnificent art museums.
R continues into the North End, where Unfortunately, you’ll have to choose between
you can visit the historic Paul Revere the excellent, encyclopaedic collection at the
House, Old North Church and Copp’s Museum of Fine Arts and the smaller but
Hill Burying Ground. no less extraordinary exhibits at the Isa-
bella Stewart Gardner Museum. Either
Dinner You are perfectly poised for an way, you won’t be disappointed.
Italian feast along Hanover St (p61).
Dinner Eat oysters and drink craft beer
West End & North End (p55) at Island Creek Oyster Bar (p125).
Move on to the exquisite Liberty
N Hotel, former site of the Charles St Kenmore Square & Fenway (p117)
Jail. After admiring the impressive archi- There is music in the air this even-
tectural transformation in the lobby, head N ing. It might be emanating from the
downstairs for a drink in the former drunk acoustically perfect Symphony Hall, where
tank, which now houses the ultracool club you can hear the world-renowned Boston
and cocktail bar, Alibi. Symphony Orchestra (procure tickets in
advance).
For lower-brow entertainment, catch a
baseball game at Fenway Park or go bar-
hopping on Lansdowne St.
17
PL A N YO U R TRI P T o p I tine r a r ies

Day Three Day Four
Cambridge (p138) Downtown & Waterfront (p79)
M Rent a bicycle and spend the morn-
ing cycling along the Charles M Spend the morning on the water. In
the best-case scenario, the weather
River. Feel free to stop for scenic views of is fine and you book yourself on a whale-
scullers and sailboats on the Charles, with watching tour to Stellwagen Bank. Al-
the Boston city skyline as the backdrop. ternatively, get a closer view of the marine
life inside the New England Aquarium.
Lunch Grab a vegetarian bite at Clover Afterwards, stroll along the HarborWalk
Food Lab (p143). and across the Old North Bridge, admiring
the harbor views along the way.
Lunch Dine (with a view) at

Cambridge (p138) Legal Harborside (p133) or Yankee
While away an afternoon in Har- Lobster Co (p133).
R vard Sq, browsing the bookstores
and cruising the cafes. Catch a free campus
tour (try the unofficial Hahvahd Tour). If
Seaport District & South Boston
Dinner Go casual at Night Market
(p129)
(p145) or classy at Alden & Continue along the HarborWalk to
Harlow (p146). R the Institute of Contemporary
Art for an afternoon of provocative con-
you’re in the mood for a museum, the uni-

Dinner Choose from colourful Chinatown
versity offers several excellent options.
(p99) or trendy South End (p96).
Cambridge (p138) temporary art. Don’t miss the amazing

See whatever brilliant or bizarre view from the Founders’ Gallery.
N production is playing at the
American Repertory Theater or at the
company’s second venue, Club Oberon. If South End & Chinatown (p129)
that doesn’t take your fancy, catch a band Get fancied up and go out for a
at Lizard Lounge or Sinclair. N night on the town in the Theater
District. Attend a show at one of the
newly renovated theaters, then dance the
night away at Whisky Saigon or Tunnel,
or sip cocktails with the sophisticates at
Beehive.
18
If You Like…
Patriots’ Day A day of Museum of Fine Arts The Linde
Revolutionary re-enactments and parades Family Wing for Contemporary Art
commemorating the first battles tripled the exhibition space for its
History of the American Revolutionary growing collection. (p120)
War. (p20)
Freedom Trail The 2.5-mile Isabella Stewart Gardner
walking trail includes Boston’s Cambridge Common The city Museum A dynamic artist-in-
most important revolutionary green is where George Washing- residency program ensures a rich
sites. (p26) ton took command of his army in rotation of innovative exhibits and
1775. (p142) performances. (p122)
Lexington & Concord These
towns are the sites of the first SoWa Artists Guild Visit on the
battles in the War for Independ- first Friday of the month, when art-
ence. (p166) Contemporary Art ists open their studios. (p96)
Boston Tea Party Ships & Institute of Contemporary Art Harvard Art Museum Often
Museum Includes replicas of the Boston’s pre-eminent venue for shows off contemporary art from
merchant ships that hosted the contemporary art boasts a dra- its collections in its top-floor
historic tea party. (p132) matic waterside setting. (p131) temporary exhibit space. (p142)
JEFF MORSE/GETTY IMAGES ©
The Lexington Minuteman Statue on Battle Green, Lexington (p167)

19
Harvard Yard Features the best
JFK of all eras, including buildings by For more top Boston
Henry Hobson Richardson, Wal- spots, see the following:
John F Kennedy National ter Gropius and Le Corbusier. ¨Ëating (p30)
Historic Site See where the (p140)
¨¨Drinking & Nightlife (p33)
35th US president was born and
Massachusetts Institute
raised. (p157) ¨Ëntertainment (p35)
PL A N YO U R TRI P I f Y ou L ike …
of Technology The campus
John F Kennedy Library & contains masterful examples of ¨¨Shopping (p37)
Museum Learn about Kennedy’s 20th-century modernism and ¨¨Sports & Activities (p39)
political legacy at the official 21st-century mayhem. (p141)
presidential library. (p134)
Design Museum Boston This
Union Oyster House Request pop-up museum hosts exhibits Old North Church Boston’s
the JFK booth and order the and talks all around town. (p13) oldest church is surrounded by
lobster bisque. (p86) delightfully secluded gardens,
including an 18th-century
Edward Kennedy Institute for garden featuring blooms from
the US Senate Check out the Animals
the days of yore. (p58)
newest Kennedy venue, a tribute New England Aquarium Ex-
to JFK’s brother. (p134) plore the most exotic of nature’s
Rose Kennedy Greenway Pay marine environments. (p81) Free Stuff
your respects to the matriarch New England Aquarium Whale
of the Kennedy clan. (p84) Freedom Trail The National Park
Watch Sightings of whales, dol- Service offers a free walking
phins and other marine life are tour; several sites along the
practically guaranteed. (p91) route do not charge admission.
Literature (p216)
Franklin Park Zoo Visit the
Concord (p167) Tour the homes Serengeti, the Australian outback Black Heritage Trail Another
and visit the gravesites of and the Amazonian rainforest in free NPS walking tour that ex-
Concord’s literary masters; and one afternoon. (p158) plores the history of African
to Walden Pond to experience American settlement in Beacon
Harvard Museum of Natural
Life in the Woods. (p168) Hill. (p70)
History Hundreds of (stuffed)
Longfellow House See where animals peer out of glass show- Free Museum Nights The MFA
the Fireside Poet composed cases, representing all classes (p120) is free on Wednesday
the Song of Hiawatha and Paul and continents. (p142) evenings, while the ICA (p131) is
Revere’s Ride. (p143) free on Thursday evenings.
Public Garden Don’t miss Make
Way for Ducklings, a whimsical Gardens Boston Public Library See
the BPL’s impressive art and
statue based on Robert McClos- Public Garden The Victorian- architecture on daily free guided
key’s children’s book. (p69) era Public Garden is an island tours. (p108)
Boston Athenaeum Since its of loveliness, always awash in
Universities Both MIT (p141)
founding in 1807, this esteemed blooms and breezes. (p69)
and Harvard (p140) offer free
institution has counted many Arnold Arboretum Flowering campus tours.
noteworthy writers and thinkers trees galore, with collections of
among its members. (p73) JFK National Historic Site
bonsai, lilacs, conifers, roses and
See the birthplace of the 35th
Brookline Booksmith (p161) fruit-laden malus. (p157)
president – for free. (p157)
or Harvard Bookstore (p152), Rose Kennedy Greenway The
Boston’s best bookstores host Hatch Memorial Shell The
Fort Point Channel Parks show
regular author talks. Esplanade stage is the place for
gardens by the Massachusetts
free summertime entertain-
Horticultural Society. (p84)
ment. (p114)
Architecture Back Bay Fens At the end of
Samuel Adams Brewery Free
June, the Kelleher Rose Garden
Copley Square Some of Bos- tours of the brewery and free
explodes in fireworks of colors
ton’s most stunning signature samples. (p161)
and scents. (p124)
buildings are clustered around
this plaza. (p110)
20
Month by Month
a re-enactment of the battle

TOP EVENTS
March on Lexington Green and a
commemoration ceremony
Patriots’ Day, April
On March 17 the city at the North Bridge in
Independent Film celebrates Evacuation Concord.
Festival of Boston, April Day, when the British
Independence Day, July pulled out of Boston 2 Boston Marathon
Hub on Wheels, Harbor in 1776. The world’s oldest mara-
September thon (www.bostonmara-
Haunted Happenings,
z St Patrick’s Day thon.org) attracts tens of
The large and vocal thousands of ambitious
October
South Boston Irish com- runners to pound the pave-
munity hosts a parade ment for 26.2 miles. Held
(www.southbostonparade. on Patriots’ Day.
January org) on West Broadway.
After 20 years of conten- 3 Independent Film
January represents the tion, the parade allowed Festival of Boston
deepest, darkest part of participation by gay and During the last week in
winter. Expect snow and lesbian groups for the first April, venues around the
cold – great weather for time in 2015. city host screenings of
sledding and skating. independent films (www.
5 Dine Out Boston iffboston.org).
z Chinese New Year For the first two weeks of
In January or February, March, scores of restau-
Chinatown lights up with a
colorful parade, firecrack-
rants offer prix-fixe menus
(www.dineoutboston.com).
May
ers and lots of food. This is one of Boston’s
most beautiful months.
April Memorial Day, on the last

Monday in May, officially
February Emerging crocuses and kicks off the summer
Still cold, but the days are forsythias signal the season.
getting longer. Tourists arrival of spring; baseball
are few and far between, fans await opening day at 7 Mayfair
so prices are cheap. Fenway Park. When the sun comes out,
so do the good folks in Har-
2 Beanpot z Patriots’ Day vard Sq, for Mayfair (www.
Local college hockey teams On the third Monday in harvardsquare.com). On
face off in the hotly con- April, history buffs com- the first or second Sunday
tested Beanpot Tournament memorate the start of in May, artists, merchants
(www.beanpothockey.com). the American Revolution and restaurants set up
(www.battleroad.org), with booths on the streets.
21
z Lilac Sunday z Harborfest 3 Boston
On the third Sunday in The week-long Independ- Comedy Festival
May, the Arnold Arbore- ence Day festival (www.bos- The second week in Sep-
tum celebrates the arrival tonharborfest.com) starts tember is dedicated to
of spring on Lilac Sunday on the last weekend in funny guys and gals, who
(www.arboretum.harvard. June. It includes Children’s cut up at venues all around
edu), when more than 400 Day and Chowderfest. town as a part of the Bos-
PL A N YO U R TRI P M o n t h b y M o n t h
varieties of fragrant lilac ton Comedy Festival (www.
are in bloom. z Independence Day bostoncomedyfest.com).
On July 4, Boston hosts a
3 Boston Calling line-up of free performanc- 3 Boston
Music lovers take over City es (www.july4th.org) that Film Festival
Hall Plaza for three days of culminates with the Boston For four days in mid-
all-out, rock-out music. The Pops playing Tchaikovsky’s September, all Bostonians
festival (www.bostoncall- 1812 Overture. Half a mil- become film critics at the
ing.com) occurs during the lion people watch it live. Boston Film Festival (www.
last weekend in May, and bostonfilmfestival.org).
again during the first week- August 3 Beantown
end in September.
Summer in the city Jazz Festival
continues; only at the The Berklee College of Mu-
end of the month will you
June begin to feel fall coming.
sic sponsors this free fes-
tival (www.beantownjazz.
June brings temperatures org) in the South End.
ranging from 55°F to 70°F, z Boston Carnival
and lots of rain. Student Boston’s Caribbean com- 2 Hub on Wheels
calendars are packed with munity re-creates Carnival On the third Sunday in
events and graduation (www.bostoncarnival.org), September, the bicycle ride,
ceremonies. with spectacular costumes, Hub on Wheels (www.bos-
sultry music and spicy toncyclingcelebration.com),
z Boston cooking. Includes a Kiddies starts at City Hall Plaza.
Pride Festival Carnival Celebration and
an all-out ‘Trini-style’ Car-
The week-long GLBT festi-
val (www.bostonpride.org)
nival parade.
October
kicks off with the raising
of a rainbow flag on City
z Italian Festivals October is Boston’s best
Throughout July and month. The academic year
Hall Plaza. On the second is rolling, the weather is
August, the North End’s
Saturday the Pride Parade crisp and cool, and the
religious societies sponsor
attracts tens of thousands trees take on shades of
feasts and processions hon-
of participants. red, gold and amber.
oring their patron saints.
Major celebrations include
z Bunker Hill Day the Fisherman’s Feast z Oktoberfest
Charlestown historians (www.fishermansfeast.com) On the first or second Sun-
remember the crucial Bat- and St Anthony’s Feast day in October, Harvard Sq
tle of Bunker Hill. The city (www.stanthonysfeast.com). artisans and entertainers
celebrates with a road race, take to the streets. The
followed by a parade. street fair (www.harvard
September square.com) coincides with
the crazy-fun Honk! parade
July By September the
humidity disappears, the
(www.honkfest.org).
By July the city has students return and the 2 Head of the
emptied out, as the streets are filled with Charles Regatta
students vacate for U-Hauls during the first Spectators line the banks
the summer and week. The first Monday in of the Charles River on a
Bostonians head to their September is Labor Day, weekend in mid-October to
summerhouses. It’s also the official end of the watch the world’s largest
Boston’s hottest month. summer season.
22
(Top) Boston Marathon finish line
rowing event, the Head of (Bottom) Haunted Happenings Halloween festival, Salem
the Charles (www.hocr.org).
z Haunted
Happenings
JIM ROGASH/GETTY IMAGES ©

Salem goes all out for
Halloween at this festival
PL A N YO U R TRI P M o n t h b y M o n t h
(www.hauntedhappenings.
org). The city celebrates for
much of October.
November
In November, you can feel
winter in the air. You may
even see snow flurries.
Thanksgiving Day kicks
off the holiday season.
z America’s
Hometown
Thanksgiving
Celebration
Plymouth is the birthplace
of Thanksgiving (www.
usathanksgiving.com), so
it’s appropriate that the
town celebrates this herit-
age with a parade, concerts,
crafts and food.
December
In early December, the
huge festive Christmas
trees at the Prudential
Center and the Boston
Common are lit.
z Boston Tea
Party Reenactment
On the Sunday prior to

December 16, costumed
actors march from Old
South Meeting House to the
waterfront and toss crates
of tea into the harbor. The
event (www.bostonteapar-
tyship.com) takes place on
Griffin’s Wharf, where the
Tea Party ships are docked .
z First Night
New Year celebrations
(www.firstnight.org) begin
early and continue past
midnight, culminating in
fireworks over the harbor.
23
Kids’ History
USS Constitution & Museum
Aside from exploring the warship, kids can
With
swing in hammocks and experience life as
a sailor. (p50)
Kids
Massachusetts State House
Check out the Kids’ Zone on the website
(www.sec.state.ma.us). It features word
games, trivia quizzes and the priceless
Ladybug Story. (p72)
Old South Meeting House

Scavenger hunts and activity kits direct
children at this historic building. (p85).
Boston is one giant history
museum, the setting for many Old State House
lively and informative field trips. Most of the exhibits are not particularly
Cobblestone streets and costume- kid friendly, but the ‘Hands-on History’
clad tour guides can bring to life exhibition allows children to build with
blocks and peek behind the hidden doors
the events that kids read about of the State House facade. (p82)
in history books, while hands-on
experimentation and interactive Prudential Center Skywalk
exhibits fuse education and Observatory
entertainment. Assuming your kids are not acrophobes,
they will be thrilled to see Boston from
above. An audio tour caters to kids. (p111)
MARY KNOX MERRILL/GETTY IMAGES ©
Kids’ Art
Museum of Fine Arts
The museum offers loads of programs for
kids, including Family Place (Tuesday and
Thursday), which teaches children over age
four to use art, music and poetry to explore
the gallery’s collections. (p120)
Institute of Contemporary Art

ICA (p131) offers innovative programs for
families including Sunday afternoon art
classes and monthly ‘play dates,’ as well as
a supercool program (www.icateens.org)
organized by teens for teens. (p57)
Kids’ Science
Museum of Science
More opportunities to combine fun and
learning than anywhere in the city. The
Discovery Center is specially designed for
Museum of Science (p57)
kids under eight. (p57)
24
New England Aquarium

Kids can see eye-to-eye with thousands of Kids’ Tours
species in the Giant Ocean Tank. (p81) Boston by Foot
Boston Children’s Museum ‘Boston by Little Feet’ is the only Freedom
Hours of fun climbing, constructing and Trail walking tour designed especially for
PL A N YO U R TRI P W i t h K i d s
creating. The museum is especially good children age six to 12. (p212)
for kids aged three to eight years. (p132)
Boston Duck Tours
Franklin Park Zoo Kids are invited to drive the duck on the
In addition to the many animal exhib- raging waters of the Charles River. Bonus:
its, the zoo has a wild and wonderful quacking loudly is encouraged. (p211)
10,000-sq-ft playground. (p158)
Freedom Trail Foundation
Harvard Museum of Natural History Older kids will appreciate the guides in
It’s almost as good as the zoo. Sure, the costume. Download a scavenger hunt or
stuffed animals don’t move, but they let reading list (www.thefreedomtrail.org).
the kids get really close and look them in
the eye. (p142) Urban AdvenTours
This bike tour is great for all ages. Kids’
MIT Museum bikes and helmets are available for rent, as
It’s too complicated for small kids, but are bike trailers for toddlers. (p211)
teenagers will get a kick out of the robots,
holograms and other science stuff. (p141)
Kids’ Entertainment
Quincy Market
Kids’ Outdoor Adventures There are always jugglers, puppeteers,
break-dancers and acrobats performing on
Boston Harbor Islands weekends at Quincy Market. (p86)
Spectacle Island (p165) has family-friendly
facilities (and beach), while Georges Island Boston Symphony Orchestra
(p165) has Fort Warren. Check the website
The BSO has a rich ‘Youth & Family’ pro-
(www.bostonharborislands.org) for lots of
gram, with weekend concerts designed
kid-oriented activities on weekends.
specifically to introduce young people to
classical music. (p127)
Castle Island & Fort Independence
Lots of space and a fort to explore, plus Improv Boston
beaches and a playground, make this an ex-
Improv Boston presents The Family Show
cellent adventurous outing for kids. (p132)
on Saturdays at 6pm. (p151)
New England Aquarium Whale Watch Coolidge Corner Theatre
The boat ride can be a thrill, and whale
Sunday morning movies especially for
sightings are practically guaranteed. (p91)
little people. (p161)
NEED TO KNOW
¨¨ Boston Central (www.bostoncentral.com) is a fantastic resource for families,
with listings for activities, outings, shops and playgrounds that are good for kids.
¨¨ Look for the c icon in listings indicating family-friendly sights, activities and shops.
¨¨ Kids under 11 ride the T for free, while junior-high and high-school students pay
half-price. Most taxi companies can provide a child seat if you reserve in advance.
¨¨ Most upscale hotels offer babysitting services or referrals, or try Boston’s Best
Babysitters (www.bbbabysitters.com) and Nanny Poppins (www.nannypoppins.com).
25
How ah yah?
Boston’s standard friendly greeting.
Wicked
Like a
A modifier meaning ‘extremely.’ So some-
thing might be ‘wicked expensive’ or it
could be ‘wicked cold’ outside. The best
compliment a Bostonian can give is to say
Local
something is ‘wicked pisser’ (usually pro-
nounced ‘wicked pissah’).
Coffee
If you order a ‘regular’ coffee, you’ll get
cream and sugar.
Sweets
A soda is a ‘tonic.’ A milkshake is a ‘frappe.’
For all its worldliness, Boston is A glazed doughnut is ‘honey-dipped.’ And
a city of neighborhoods, home if you want sprinkles on your ice cream,
ask for ‘jimmies.’
to local people doing their local
things. Here are some of the city
dwellers’ favorite places to go and Food & Drink
things to do. Some local specialties (besides seafood):
Food Trucks
Boston’s best weekday lunch comes from
Sights & Activities a truck. Find the good ones on the Rose
Charles River Kennedy Greenway at Dewey Sq, in front
Bostonians love that dirty water (and the of the Science Center at Harvard Sq, on the
Standells even sang about it). You’ll know Boston Common, and elsewhere around
why if you go for a run or ride a bicycle town (p31).
along the Charles River Bike Path (p154)
or just relax and catch some rays on the Pizza
Esplanade (p110). Every Bostonian has a favorite neighbor-
hood pizza joint. It might be Galleria Um-
Boston Public Library berto (p61) in the North End, Picco (p96)
This is a high-minded city, so it should in the South End, Emma’s Pizza (p146) in
come as no surprise that Bostonians Cambridge, or – the ultimate local joint –
patronize their public library. You too can Santarpio’s (p64) in East Boston.
plug in your laptop at the BPL (p108). Or, Dive Bars
here’s a novel concept, read a book there.
The friendliest locals drink at dive bars,
such as Sevens (p76) in Beacon Hill, Biddy
Candlepin Bowling
Early’s Pub (p89) downtown or the Southie
New England’s fast disappearing favorite original Croke Park Whitey’s (p135).
pastime. You can still bowl with the little
balls at Sacco’s Bowl Haven (p154). Markets
Bostonian’s love to buy produce and other
yummies from their neighborhood farmers
markets, but they know to head to Hay-
Language market (p87) for the best bargains on fresh
Aside from the notorious local accent, fruit, veggies and fish.
visitors may need some help deciphering
the local lingo:
26
1. Boston Common
The Freedom Trail kicks off at the Boston
Common (p70), America’s oldest public
Walk the
park and the centerpiece of the city. The
50-acre green is criss-crossed with walking
paths. Don’t miss the powerful monument
to the victims of the Boston Massacre,
Freedom
erected in 1888.
Trail
2. Massachusetts State House
Overlooking the Boston Common from the
northeast corner, the Massachusetts State
House (p72) occupies a proud spot atop the
city’s last remaining hill – land that was
previously part of John Hancock’s cow pas-
Summon your inner Paul Revere ture. Other Sons of Liberty also had their
and follow the red-brick road hands in building the new capitol, literally:
from the Boston Common to the Samuel Adams and Paul Revere laid the
cornerstones on July 4, 1795.
Bunker Hill Monument. This
2.5-mile walking trail is the best
introduction to revolutionary 3. Park Street Church
Boston, tracing the locations of Just south of the State House, the soaring
the events that earned this town spire of Park Street Church (p73) has been
its status as the ‘Cradle of Liberty.’ an unmistakable landmark since 1809. The
church earned the moniker ‘Brimstone
Corner’ both for its usage as a gunpowder
storage place during the War of 1812 and
HOLBOX/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
for its fiery preaching.
4. Granary Burying Ground

Walk north on Tremont St, where you will
pass the Egyptian Revival gates of the
Granary Burying Ground (p73). Steeped
in history, the serene cemetery is the final
resting place of many of the Sons of Lib-
erty, as well as the victims of the Boston
Massacre and other historical figures.
5. King’s Chapel &

Burying Ground
Continue north to School St, where the
Georgian King’s Chapel (p84) overlooks its
adjacent burying ground. It is perhaps an
odd choice for inclusion on the Freedom
Trail, since it was founded as an Anglican
Church in 1688. It does, however, contain
a large bell crafted by Paul Revere, and the
Park Street Church (p73) prestigious Governor’s pew, once occupied
by George Washington.
27
6. Site of the First 11. Faneuil Hall

Public School Nearly every visitor to Boston stops at
Turn east on School St, and take note of Quincy Market to grab a beer or shop for
the bronze statue of Benjamin Franklin souvenirs, but most bypass historic Faneuil
PL A N YO U R TRI P Wa l k t h e F r e e d o m T r a i l
outside Old City Hall (p84). A plaque Hall (p83), the original market and public
commemorates this spot as the site of the meeting place that was built in 1740. Pause
country’s first public school. Enter the to admire the bronze statue of Samuel
courtyard to discover some of the school’s Adams, who sits astride his horse in Dock
distinguished alumni and quirky artwork. Sq. Then ascend to the 2nd-floor hall,
where Adams was one of the many orators
to speak out against British rule.
7. Old Corner Bookstore

Continue down School St to Washington 12. Paul Revere House
St, where the little brick building is known From Faneuil Hall, cross the Rose Kennedy
as the Old Corner Bookstore (p85), a liter- Greenway and head into the heart of the
ary and intellectual hotspot for 75 years. North End. Turn southeast on Richmond
Strangely, it is now an option for lunch if St and you will find yourself in charming
you’re in the mood for Mexican fast food. North Sq, once home to Paul Revere. The
weathered clapboard house here – Paul
Revere House (p60) – is the oldest example
8. Old South Meeting House in Boston, as most other wooden construc-
tion was destroyed by the fires that ravaged
Diagonally opposite across Washington the city. This is likely where Paul Revere
St, the Old South Meeting House (p85) commenced his famous midnight ride.
saw the beginnings of one of the American
Revolution’s most vociferous protests, the
Boston Tea Party. Come off the street and
listen to a reenactment of what went down
13. Old North Church
that day. Back on Hanover St, walk two blocks north
to Paul Revere Mall. Besides a dramatic
statue of the patriot himself, this park
also provides a lovely vantage point to
9. Old State House view your next destination, the Old North
Before the revolution, the seat of the Mas- Church (p58). In addition to playing a cru-
sachusetts government was the Old State cial revolutionary role, the 1723 church is
House (p82), a red-brick colonial building also Boston’s oldest house of worship. Take
that is now surrounded by modern build- a breather in the delightful gardens behind
ings and busy streets. Inside, you can the church.
peruse the historic artifacts and listen to
firsthand accounts of the revolutionary
NEED TO KNOW
events. Outside, gaze up at the balcony,
where the Declaration of Independence ¨¨ Start Boston Common (YPark St)
was first read to Bostonians in 1776. ¨¨ Finish Bunker Hill (YCommunity
College)
10. Boston Massacre Site ¨¨ Distance 2.5 miles

¨¨ Freedom Trail Foundation (www.
In front of the Old State House, the cobble-
thefreedomtrail.org) Includes exten-
stone circle marks the site of the Boston
sive information about all 16 sites.
Massacre (p82), the revolution’s first vio-
lent conflict in 1770. On March 5, an angry ¨¨ Freedom Trail Ticket (adult/child
crowd of protesters was throwing snow- $13/2) covers admission to all paid
balls and rocks at the British soldiers, who sites on the trail.
eventually fired into the crowd,
killing five.
28
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29
TRAIL TIMELINE
JIAWANGKUN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
¨¨ 1635 The Puritans establish the
first public school in the home of the
schoolmaster. Now the Boston Latin
School, it still operates in Fenway.
¨¨ 1688 Amid much wrangling with
the local leadership, King’s Chapel is
founded as an Anglican congregation
in Puritan Boston.
¨¨ March 5, 1770 The Boston Massa-
cre is the first violent conflict leading
up to the War for Independence.
¨¨ December 16, 1773 Angry protest-
ers have a Tea Party, storming out of
the Old South Meeting House, raiding
a merchant ship docked nearby and
dumping crates of tea overboard.
¨¨ April 18, 1775 The sexton hangs
two lanterns in the Old North Church
to signal the Redcoats’ route to Con-
cord. Paul Revere rides from his home
Bunker Hill Monument (p52) on North Sq to warn the patriots of
the Redcoats’ approach.
14. Copp’s Hill ¨¨ June 17, 1775 The Battle of Bunker
Burying Ground Hill inflicts significant damage on British
troops, physically and psychologically.
From the church, head west on Hull St to
Copp’s Hill Burying Ground (p60). This ¨¨ July 18, 1776 The Declaration of
quiet corner contains some of the city’s Independence is read for the first time
oldest gravestones and offers grand views in Boston, from the balcony of the Old
across the river to Charlestown. Look for State House.
the headstone of Daniel Malcolm, which ¨¨ October 21, 1797 The USS Consti-
is littered with bullet holes from British tution is launched from a Boston ship-
troops who apparently took offense at his yard, just in time for victorious battles
epitaph. Incidentally, little is known about in the new nation’s first naval wars.
Malcolm’s actual role in protests or revolu-
tion; historical records only show that he ¨¨ 1798 Symbolic of the new state,
was arrested for failing to pay duty on 60 the new Massachusetts State House
casks of wine. becomes the seat of government for
the Commonwealth.
15. USS Constitution

Continue west on Hull St to its end. Turn
16. Bunker Hill Monument
left on Commercial St and walk across Walk through the winding cobblestone
the Charlestown Bridge. Turning right on streets up to the 220ft granite obelisk that
Constitution Rd brings you to the Charles- is the Bunker Hill Monument (p52). Check
town Navy Yard, home of the world’s oldest out the dioramas in the museum to better
commissioned warship, the USS Constitu- understand what transpired on that fateful
tion (p50). Board the ship for a tour of the day in June 1775, when the Battle of Bunker
upper decks, where you will learn about its Hill took place. Then climb 295 steps to the
exploits in America’s earliest naval battles. top of the monument to enjoy the panorama
of the city, the harbor and the North Shore.
MAREMAGNUM/GETTY IMAGES ©
Café on Newbury St, Back Bay
Eating
The Boston area is the home of the first Thanksgiving and of bountiful
autumnal harvests. It is also America’s seafood capital. And in this era of
creative culinary discovery, more and more Bostonians are reclaiming their
roots in one crucial way: through their appreciation of local, seasonal and
organic products. This thriving ‘locavore’ movement highlights the bounty
of local waters and rich New England farms.
today. Look for it at restaurants specializing
in old-fashioned fare, such as Kitchen (p99),
Beantown Durgin Park (p86) and Union Oyster House
With a nickname like Beantown, you know (p86).
that Boston is into food. Culinary historians
believe that Native American’s cooked beans Seafood
with fatty bear meat and molasses in earth- Thanks to its environment, Boston cuisine
enware pots. Early settlers likely adapted this has always featured plenty of seafood, espe-
recipe by substituting pork for bear meat, cially the ‘sacred cod,’ halibut and various
resulting in the famed Boston baked beans. shellfish. Lobster – once so plentiful that it
Despite the name, you’ll have some trouble was served to prisoners – is now a recognized
finding baked beans on a menu in Boston delicacy that appears on most local menus.
31
The most traditional preparations are
boiled and fried, but nowadays creative NEED TO KNOW
chefs are calling on new techniques and all
kinds of international influences to present Opening Hours
the seafood in even more delicious ways. Breakfast is usually 7am to 10am; lunch
11:30am to 2:30pm or 3pm; and dinner
Italian & International Influences starts around 5pm with last service 9pm
PL A N YO U R TRI P E AT I N G
The international influence on Boston cui- or 10pm. Exceptions are noted in reviews.
sine cannot be underestimated. A tight-knit
immigrant enclave, the North End upholds Price Guide
old-fashioned Italian American cooking, Prices listed are for main courses.
with tomato sauces simmering and pasta $ under $15
boiling on every stove. This neighborhood
$$ $15 to $25
is still packed with ristoranti (restaurants),
enoteche (wine bars) and pasticcerie $$$ more than $25
(bakeries) – making it the city’s best eating
Booking Tables
destination.
In the 20th century, a new wave of im- Reservations are recommended for most
migrants arrived from South America and top-end restaurants, especially on Friday
Asia, bringing the flavors of Brazil, China, and Saturday evenings. Make reservations
India, Korea and Vietnam. at www.opentable.com.
Tipping
Food Trucks
Boston has dozens of food trucks cruising In restaurants with sit-down service,
its streets, serving up cheap, filling fare to customers should leave a 15% tip for ac-
hungry patrons who are short on time and/ ceptable service and a 20% tip for good
or money. There’s a full range of meals on service; tipping at a lower level reflects
offer, from chicken teriyaki, noodles and dissatisfaction with the service.
tacos to burgers, hotdogs, lobster rolls and Food Blogs
vegetarian food. ¨¨ Urban Spoon (www.urbanspoon.com)
In Boston, you’ll find food trucks on
¨¨ Edible Boston (www.edibleboston.net)
the Rose Kennedy Greenway and on the
Boston Common, among other places. In ¨¨ Boston Foodie (thebostonfoodie.
Cambridge, look for trucks on the plaza in blogspot.com)
front of the Harvard Science Center or on ¨¨ Boston Vegetarian Society (www.
Carleton St across from the Kendall Sq T bostonveg.org)
station. Find out more at the Boston Food ¨¨ Boston Burger Blog (www.boston
Truck Blog (www.bostonfoodtruckblog. burgerblog.com)
com) or Hub Food Trucks (www.hubfood-
trucks.com).
eating, overflowing with Asian eateries, trendy
restaurants and neighborhood cafés. (p96)
Eating by Neighborhood
¨¨Back Bay Classy grills and cozy cafés lined up
¨¨Charlestown A small selection of welcoming along Newbury St and Boylston St. (p111)
restaurants on Main St and City Sq. (p53)
¨¨Kenmore Square & Fenway Cheap eats
¨¨West End & North End Harkening back to
and burger joints, with a few excellent upscale
Italy, the North End is Boston’s most authentic options. (p125)
Old World eating destination. (p60)
¨¨Beacon Hill & Boston Common A mix of cute ¨¨Seaport District & South Boston Seafood,
cafés, business lunches and gourmet delis, with seafood and more seafood, with a few arty cafés
no shortage of swanky spots. (p74) and restaurants thrown in. (p133)
¨¨Downtown & Waterfront Sandwich shops and ¨¨Cambridge Coffeehouses, sandwich
lunch spots catering to a workaday world. (p86) shops, noodle houses, taquerias and upscale
¨¨South End & Chinatown Boston’s best restaurants to suit every taste. (p143)
32
Lonely Planet’s Best by Cuisine Best for Kids

Top Choices
Seafood Friendly Toast (p146) No need
Pomodoro (p61) The quintes- Yankee Lobster Co (p133) It for a kids’ menu, because the
sential romantic North End doesn’t get any fresher than this regular menu has everything
hideaway with great Italian food. retail fish market. that kids love.
PL A N YO U R TRI P E AT I N G
El Pelon (p125) Cheap and deli- Row 34 (p133) Eight kinds Flatbread Co (p154) Pizza,
cious tacos galore. of oysters, five kinds of fish, bowling and plenty of love for
seafood galore. the little ones.
Row 34 (p133) A casual but
classy seafood restaurant with a Daily Catch (p62) It’s not fancy, Life Alive (p146) Smoothies
well-stocked raw bar. but it sure is fresh. (and other deceptively healthful
food) – plus a dedicated play
Courtyard (p112) Exquisite, area.
artistic food, served amid the Italian
grandeur of the Boston Public Pomodoro (p61) The most Tasty Burger (p126) Burgers
Library. romantic hole-in-the-wall on on the menu and billiards in the
Hanover St. house.
Alden & Harlow (p146)
Small plates with big taste, Carmen Trattoria (p62) A
with creative drink choices to special-occasion destination Best Late-Night Grub
complement. with only a handful of tables.
Scampo (p61) Italian food, as BarLola (p112) Packed with

Best By Budget done by celeb-chef Lydia Shire. hungry diners until after mid-
night. Muy auténtico.
$ Kaze Shabu Shabu (p100) One
Chinese
El Pelon (p125) Fish tacos. of many late-night options in
Cheap. Delicious. Gourmet Dumpling House Chinatown.
(p99) Often packed, but
Casa Razdora (p86) Fresh, always worth the wait for soup Franklin Café (p97) Delicious
housemade pasta topped with dumplings. full menu every night until
fresh, housemade sauces. Like 1:30am.
your nonna made. Winsor Dim Sum Café (p100)
Dim sum – it’s not just for jm Curley (p87) Irresistible
Clover Food Lab (p143) Origi- breakfast anymore. snacky snacks and hefty sand-
nal, affordable and animal free. wiches round out the late-night
Taiwan Café (p99) Quickly menu.
$$ becoming Chinatown’s hottest
spot for xiao long bao. South Street Diner (p101)
Gourmet Dumpling House Open around the clock for your
(p99) Our favorite Chinatown noshing needs.
haunt.
Best for Vegetarians
Coda (p112) A South End gastro-
Best Brunch
pub that won’t bust your budget. Veggie Galaxy (p146) Your
Lolita Cocina (p112) Modern favorite diner fare – all animal Beehive (p101) Listen to jazz
Mexican fare with a twist. free. and feast on eggs shakshuka.
Sweetgreen (p111) Caters to Paramount (p74) An old-
$$$ every kind of special diet, as fashioned family place where
Ten Tables (p160) Original well as people who enjoy fresh, they still call it breakfast.
preparations of local, seasonal delicious food.
fare. Mike & Patty’s (p100)
Life Alive (p146) Smoothies, Out-of-this-world breakfast
Island Creek Oyster Bar (p125) salads and sandwiches that are sandwiches, every day until
The luscious oysters are only good for body and soul. 2:30pm.
the beginning.
Clover Food Lab (p143) Clover’s West End Johnnies (p65) JC’s
O Ya (p101) You’ve never had chickpea fritter is a thing of corned-beef hash and eggs
sushi like this before. beauty. plus live reggae music equals
happiness.
33
Drinking &
Nightlife
Despite the city’s Puritan roots, modern-day Bostonians like to get their
drink on. While the city has more than its fair share of Irish pubs,
it also has a dynamic craft-beer movement, with a few homegrown
microbreweries; a knowledgeable population of wine drinkers (and
pourers); and a red-hot cocktail scene, thanks to some talented local
bartenders. So pick your poison…and drink up!
Where to Drink
Drinking & Nightlife by
ALCOHOL Neighborhood
Boston’s drinking scene is dominated by four
¨¨Charlestown An eclectic mix of drinking
categories: dive bars, Irish bars, sports bars
and a new breed of truly hip cocktail bars. options, ranging from historic to exotic. (p54)
Any of these types might cater to discerning ¨¨West End & North End Drink beer (West End)
beer drinkers, with local craft brews on tap or Campari (North End) with your sports on the
or a wide selection of imported bottles. Some tube. (p64)
also morph into dance clubs as the night
wears on. Boston also boasts a few sophisti- ¨¨Beacon Hill & Boston Common There are
cated and semi-swanky wine bars, which are only a few local watering holes in the bastion of
delightful for a glass of Pinot Noir (and usu- Brahmins. (p76)
ally accompanying food). ¨¨Downtown & Waterfront Some perennial
favorites are embedded in the streets away from
COFFEE the Freedom Trail. (p88)
Aside from Dunkin’ Donuts on every corner,
there are scores of cute cafés and cool cof- ¨¨South End & Chinatown Gay-friendly and
feehouses, many of which serve dynamite ubertrendy places to drink, plus the city’s hottest
sandwiches and pastries. Many coffee shops clubbing scene. (p101)
also offer wireless internet access (sometimes ¨¨Back Bay Divey student haunts at one end,
free, sometimes for a fee), which is basically trendy yuppy bars at the other, with plenty in
an invitation to stay all day. between. (p113)
Where to Dance ¨¨Kenmore Square & Fenway Overflowing with

There’s really only one neighborhood in drinking joints for students and sports-lovers.
Boston where the dancing goes down: the (p126)
Theater District. Boylston St is the main ¨¨Seaport District & South Boston Salty treats
drag, but there are venues all over this groovy in Seaport for the diligent drinker, but head into
h
̓ ood. There are also clubs in Back Bay, Cam- Southie for a Boston Irish experience. (p135)
bridge and Downtown. Most clubs organize
¨¨Cambridge Students and scholars congregate
thematic dance parties, often centered on a
at creative cafés and beloved dives. (p147)
particular type of music, clientele or DJ. As
such, the atmosphere can vary greatly from ¨¨Streetcar Suburbs Some of Boston’s best pubs
night to night. and clubs are in these outlying areas. (p160)
34
Tip Tap Room (p76) Classy Caffé dello Sport (p65) Here’s
NEED TO KNOW gastropub with 40 kinds of cool how they do sports bars in Italy.
craft beers.
Opening Hours Four’s (p64) The classic
¨¨ Most drinking venues fanatic’s Boston sports bar.
are open until midnight
Best for Cocktails
during the week, and Best Hidden Haunts
PL A N YO U R TRI P D R I N K I N G & N I G H T L I F E
Drink (p135) Let the mixologists

until 1am or 2am on
create something that suits. Café Pamplona (p147) Much-
Friday and Saturday.
Highball Lounge (p88) Gets loved but hard-to-find Harvard
¨¨ Clubs open 10pm to
creative with drinks and games. Sq institution.
2am, but most of the ac-
tion is after midnight. Hawthorne (p126) Custom Lucky’s Lounge (p135) You
¨¨ Remember that the T cocktails served in a sophisti- must be in-the-know to find this
runs until 2am on Friday cated setting. place with no sign.
and Saturday, but only Alley Bar (p89) Down an alley
Ward 8 (p64) West End bar
until about 12:30am from and through an unmarked door.
serving up the namesake cock-
Sunday to Thursday.
tail and many others. Corner Tavern (p113) Back
Tipping Bay local, tucked into a corner
¨¨ Tip your bartender Best Cafés brownstone basement.
15% to 20% of the tab,
or leave a dollar or two Voltage Coffee & Art (p148) Best Dance Scene
per drink if you are pay- Calling all coffee drinkers and
ing as you go. art lovers. Ryles Jazz Club (p150) Non-
stop Latin dance party.
Clubbing Pavement Coffeehouse (p127)
Boho hangout for coffee-drink- Middlesex (p148) Small but
¨¨ Expect to pay a cover
ing students, musicians and sexy Cambridge dance club.
charge of $10 to $20.
other hipsters. Whisky Saigon (p102) The
¨¨ Most clubs enforce a
dress code. Thinking Cup (p88) Delectable hottest spot to shimmy on
coffee and irresistible pastries Boylston St.
– right across from the Boston
Lonely Planet’s Common. Best Gay &
Top Choices Lesbian Scene
Café Pamplona (p147) Quintes- Best Irish Pubs Midway Café (p161) Thursday
sentially Cambridge Euro-style Plough & Stars (p148) Tiny pub night is dyke night, but queers
café. serving cold beer, folk music and are cool at any time.
Bleacher Bar (p126) Sneak a Irish breakfast. Alley Bar (p89) A friendly bear
peek inside Fenway Park at this Brendan Behan Pub (p160) A bar that welcomes all.
sweet sports bar. dark and inviting pub, fit also for Club Café (p114) The fun never
Drink (p135) Sets the standard poets and dogs. stops with dinner, dancing,
for Boston cocktail bars. Mr Dooley’s Boston Tavern karaoke and gay cabaret.
(p88) Downtown classic, with
Best for Beer live music and good craic. Best Views
Publick House (p160) Thirty- Barking Crab (p133) Cold beers

plus drafts, including the good Best Sports Bars and breezy harbor views.
stuff from Belgium. Pier Six (p54) Watch the sun
Bleacher Bar (p126) Big sand-
Bukowski Tavern (p113) Many wiches and Boston beers, with a drop behind the Boston city
kinds of beer, served with sass. view into Fenway Park. skyline.
Cambridge Brewing Co (p149) West End Johnnies (p65) Top of the Hub (p114) See the
Ambers, porters, ales and Upscale sports bar near the TD whole city from the top floor of
stouts, brewed right here in Garden. the Pru.
Cambridge, Mass.
35
Entertainment
Welcome to the Athens of America, a city rich with artistic and cultural
offerings. With the world-class Boston Symphony Orchestra, two opera
companies, a ballet company and several nationally ranked music schools,
Boston is a true musical mecca. The Theater District is packed with venues
showcasing the city’s opera, dance and dramatic prowess, while more
innovative experimental theaters are in Cambridge and the South End.
grounds for many plays that eventually
Music become hits on Broadway. The Theater
CLASSICAL MUSIC
District is also home to two professional
Home to the Boston Symphony Orchestra opera companies and the Boston Ballet. For
and the New England Conservatory of Music, innovative, independent and sometimes
Boston boasts some of the country’s oldest wacky theater, check out the smaller venues
and most prestigious houses for symphonic in Cambridge and the South End.
experiences.
ROCK, HIP-HOP & INDIE Entertainment by Neighborhood
Boston’s modern music scene is centered in
¨¨Charlestown The closest thing to ‘cultcha’ is
the student areas of Cambridge and Allston/
Brighton. To figure out who’s playing where, trivia night at the Warren Tavern. (p54)
take a look at the clubs’ websites or listings in ¨¨West End & North End Big-name concerts at the
the Phoenix or Weekly Dig. Most shows are Garden, and one comedy venue. (p65)
for those aged 21 and over. ¨¨Beacon Hill & Boston Common Shakespeare
JAZZ on the Common, but nothing on the hill. (p77)
Since jazz is the music of intellectuals, it ¨¨Downtown & Waterfront The spillover from
comes as no surprise that Boston has a thriv- the Theater District includes several Downtown
ing scene. It starts with the students and venues. (p89)
faculty of the music institutes, and ends with ¨¨South End & Chinatown The epicenter of
intimate venues that attract big names. Boston’s cultural life; dozens of theaters. (p102)
¨¨Back Bay Home to music venues associated
Comedy with the Berklee College of Music. (p114)
Boston is a funny place, and we mean funny
¨¨Kenmore Square & Fenway Avenue of the Arts
ha-ha. To cite some famous examples, Conan
includes Symphony Hall and other venues. (p127)
O’Brien, Jay Leno and Denis Leary are all
from Boston. The Wilbur Theater is Boston’s ¨¨Seaport District & South Boston Outdoor
largest comedy venue, but there are smaller concert venue; performances at the ICA. (p135)
funny outlets all around town. ¨¨Cambridge Huge selection of innovative music,
theater, dance and comedy. (p149)
Theater ¨¨Streetcar Suburbs Quiet for entertainment,
In the Theater District, several big-ticket but Boston’s best indie music scene is up the
venues consistently book top shows, street in Allston/Brighton. (p161)
produce premieres and serve as testing
36
venue, for diversity of music and Best for Theater
NEED TO KNOW coolness of club.
Club Passim (p149) Legendary American Repertory Theater
Tickets
club that constitutes the folk (p149) Racking up Tony awards
¨¨ Tickets for opera,
scene in Boston. for its artistic interpretations of
theater and dance are classic musicals.
available online or at Comedy Studio (p149) Cutting-
PL A N YO U R TRI P E N T E R TA I N M E N T
individual theater box edge comedy, every night of Huntington Theatre Company
offices. the week. (p128) Winner of the 2013 Re-
¨¨ Most music venues
gional Tony.
offer advance online Best for Indie Rock Boston Center for the Arts
ticket sales. (p102) Home to a slew of
Lizard Lounge (p149) Dark independent theater companies,
Opening Hours including the radical Company
basement club with groovable
Classical music, theater local music. One.
and dance performances
Sinclair (p149) Long overdue in Club Oberon (p150) Fun and
usually start at 7pm or
Harvard Sq, this newish venue funky black box theater, where
8pm, and there may be
books awesome indie bands. the ART lets loose.
weekend matinees. Club
concerts often start at Great Scott (p162) Gritty Opera House (p89) Lavish
9pm or 10pm, though ven- Allston club; one of the city’s venue for musicals on tour after
ues might offer an early best places to hear cool music. Broadway.
show at 7pm or 8pm. Citi Performing Arts Center
Toad (p149) A closet-sized
BosTix Cambridge club with free local (p103) Including the Wang and
music every night. the Shubert Theaters.
BosTix (www.bostix.org)
offers discounted tickets
to theater productions Best for Jazz & Blues Best for Comedy
(up to 25% off for ad-
vance purchases online). Wally’s Café (p102) You won’t Comedy Studio (p149) Nothing
Discounts up to 50% are have the blues for long at this but funny stuff at this Harvard
available for same-day, legendary club. Sq noodle house.
in-person purchase. Red Room @ Cafe 939 (p114) Dick’s Beantown Comedy
Not only jazz, but all kinds of ex-
Internet Resources (p89) Dick Doherty and other
perimental and innovative music. funny guys keep the laughs
¨¨ Boston Music Intel-
ligencer (www.classical- Ryles Jazz Club (p150) Where coming.
scene.com) local jazz artists show their stuff. Great Scott (p162) It’s a Gas on
¨¨ World Music (www. Scullers Jazz Club (p162) A Friday nights.
worldmusic.org) soulless club showcasing soulful Improv Asylum (p65) A new
¨¨ Unscene Comedy music. show every night of the week.
(www.unscenecomedy.
com) Best for
Classical Music Best for Poetry
Lonely Planet’s Boston Symphony Orchestra Lizard Lounge (p149) The
Top Choices (p127) Boston’s world-class phil- Sunday night poetry slam is an
harmonic plays at Symphony unforgettable event melding
Wally’s (p102) Low-down blues Hall. music and minds.
bar with funky live music.
New England Conservatory Grolier Poetry Bookshop
Café 939 (p114) Berklee-stu- (p128) Look for free recitals in (p144) Check the store calendar
dent-run venue with up-and- the impressive Jordan Hall. for poetry readings and other
coming stars in an intimate events.
Longy School of Music (p150)
setting.
Up-and-coming talent is often Cantab Lounge (p151) Poets
Lizard Lounge (p149) The on display at this Cambridge descend on Wednesday nights.
Boston area’s best small music music school.
37
Shopping
Boston is known for its intellect and its arts, so you can bet it’s good for
bookstores, art galleries and music shops. These days, the streets are also
sprinkled with offbeat boutiques – some carrying vintage treasures and
local designers. Besides to-die-for duds, indie shops hawk handmade
jewelry, exotic household decorations and arty, quirky gifts. Fun to browse,
even if you don’t intend to buy.
favorites like maple syrup, artisanal cheeses
Fashion and chocolates, and cranberry anything.
Fashionistas continue to take their cues from (Cardullo’s Gourmet Shop (p152) has a whole
New York, but a few local designers are trying section dedicated to tantalizing local prod-
hard to make Boston à la mode. Recognizing ucts.) Browse North End specialty shops for
Boston’s conservative tastes in clothes, the all things Italian, or explore Chinatown for
styles tend to be relatively down to earth and hard-to-find Asian ingredients and medicinal
decidedly wearable compared to what you herbs. If all else fails, you can always take
might see in Vogue magazine. That Boston’s home a lobster package from Legal Seafoods.
most famous names in the fashion industry
are Bert and John Jacobs (Life is Good) Shopping by Neighborhood
proves the point.
¨¨West End & North End Get some gourmet treats
Recycled Goods from the Italian grocers in the North End. (p65)
Vintage is very hot in Boston. Sure, you can ¨¨Beacon Hill & Boston Common Cutesy
buy ‘vintage-inspired’ clothing, or you can boutiques and scads of antiques. (p77)
go for the real deal at one of Boston’s many
¨¨Downtown & Waterfront One large department
second-hand clothing stores. Other popular
recyclables include books, records, jewelry store and smaller practical retail outlets cater to
and wicked nice furniture. workaday Boston. (p90)
¨¨South End & Chinatown Fast becoming
Locally Made Boston’s best shopping destination, with trendy
Boston’s vibrant art scene makes its pres- boutiques and excellent galleries. (p103)
ence known in local shops, galleries and ¨¨Back Bay The traditional ‘shopping and lunch’
markets that are dedicated to arts and crafts. destination. (p114)
High-quality handmade items run the gamut ¨¨Kenmore Square & Fenway Not much appeal,
from designer clothes and jewelry to colorful unless you’re in the market for used records.
ceramics and housewares. Sometimes quirky (p128)
and clever, sometimes sophisticated and styl-
¨¨Seaport District & South Boston One iconic
ish, these handmade, locally made items are
hard to classify, but easy to appreciate. fashion center and one art gallery. Period. (p135)
¨¨Cambridge Long famous for its used bookstores
Food & Drink and secondhand record shops. (p151)
Some of Boston’s best souvenirs are consuma- ¨¨Streetcar Suburbs Sweet shopping strips with
bles. Stock up on standard New England eclectic collections of interesting shops. (p157)
38
Best for Best Bookstores

NEED TO KNOW Men’s Fashion
Brookline Booksmith (p161)
Opening Hours
Bobby From Boston (p103) The city’s most beloved bookstore.
Stores are generally open Vintage clothing from Boston’s
Monday through Saturday
Harvard Bookstore (p152)
hippest cat. Excellent bookstore with a
from 10am or 11am until
PL A N YO U R TRI P S H O P P I N G
6pm or 7pm. Most are Sault New England (p104) Cool schedule of lectures and talks.
also open on Sunday from clothing and unusual gifts from Brattle Book Shop (p90) Treas-
noon to 5pm. South End style mavens. ure trove of used books, strong
Uniform (p104) Find affordable on local history.
Sales Tax – Not!
duds by the biggest names in
There is no sales tax in men’s fashion. Best for Gifts
Massachusetts on cloth-
ing up to $175 because – Ball & Buck (p115) All-Amer-
Blackstone’s of Beacon Hill
get this – it’s a necessity! ican jeans and plaid for urban
(p77) Tiny shop crammed with
Now, if we could only con- hipsters.
quirky and clever gifts.
vince our frugal partner
of the necessity of those Best for Locally Made On Centre (p161) Jewelry and
designer jeans… other inventive items – much of
SoWa Open Market (p103) or it made by local creatives.
Greenway Open Market (p90) Black Ink (p78) Packed floor to
Lonely Planet’s The city’s biggest and best artist ceiling with stuff you never knew
Top Choices markets. you needed.
Made in Fort Point (p135) Store Fairy Shop (p115) Add a little
Ward Maps (p151) Awesome selling art and handicrafts made
antique and reproduction maps; magic to your life.
by Fort Point artists.
get one printed on a T-shirt.
Cambridge Artists’ Coop- Best for Antiques
Weirdo Records (p153) A tiny erative (p152) Three floors of
shop packed with music you exquisite, hand-crafted pieces. Cambridge Antique Market
never knew you loved.
North Bennet Street School (p152) Old warehouse crowded
Sikara & Co (p114) Exotic (p66) Woodwork, jewelry and with trash and treasures.
jewelry designs inspired by in- journals crafted. SoWa Vintage Market (p104)
ternational locales.
Intriguing indoor flea market,
Salmagundi (p161) Hip hats for Best for Sportswear open on Sundays.
everyone’s heads.
Ibex (p115) Warm, merino Marika’s Antique Shop (p78)
SoWa Open Market (p103) A Beacon Hill classic, hawking
wool outerwear, straight from
weekly outdoor extravaganza of antiques for more than 50 years.
Vermont.
arts and crafts.
New Balance Factory Store Eugene Galleries (p77) Maps,
Best for (p153) A great selection of dis- magazines and other old printed
Women’s Fashion count shoes and sportswear. matter.
Core de Vie (p77) Yoga gear and
Crush Boutique (p77) Base- Best for Jewelry
other casual everyday-wear.
ment boutique packed with
unexpected fashion finds. Sikara & Co (p114) ‘Modern
Best for Kids
Lunarik Fashions (p115) Eclec- fusion jewelry’ from around the
tic selection of handbags, many Red Wagon (p78) Cute clothes world.
by local designers. for kids. Twentieth Century Ltd (p78)
In-Jean-ius (p66) Denim to fit Boing! (p161) Where shopping Boston’s best selection of
every body, plus cute shirts and equals playing. vintage costume jewelry.
sweaters. Ruby Door (p77) Vintage
Eureka Puzzles (p161) Best
Lucy’s League (p90) Fashion- selection of puzzles, games and inspired, locally designed,
able duds for sports fans. other mind-bending fun. beautifully crafted.
MADDIE MEYER/GETTY IMAGES ©
College hockey action in the Beanpot Tournament (p20)
Sports &
Activities
Considering Boston’s large student population and extensive green spaces,
it’s no surprise to see urban outdoorsy people running along the Esplanade
and cycling the Emerald Necklace. For seafaring types, the Charles River
and the Boston Harbor offer opportunities for kayaking, sailing and even
swimming. Meanwhile, the keenest of sports fans are planted in front of
their televisions watching the Red Sox (or the Patriots, or the Bruins).
the new Alumni Stadium every second Satur-
Spectator Sports day from September to November. Staunch
FOOTBALL
Ivy League rivalries bring out alumni and
Super Bowl champions in 2002, 2004 and fans to see the Harvard Crimson (www.
2005, then again in 2015, the New England gocrimson.com) play at Harvard Stadium,
Patriots (www.patriots.com) are considered a across the river from Harvard Sq.
football dynasty. They play in the state-of-the-
art Gillette Stadium, 32 miles south of Boston BASEBALL
in Foxborough. The season runs from late The intensity of baseball fans has only grown
August to late December. since the Boston Red Sox broke their agoniz-
Now part of the competitive Atlantic Coast ing 86-year losing streak and won the 2004
Conference (ACC), the Boston College Eagles World Series. The Red Sox play from April to
football team (www.bceagles.com) plays in September at Fenway Park (p128), the
40
Cycling
NEED TO KNOW Boston is becoming an excellent cycling
city, as each year sees more bicycle lanes,
Tickets more bicycle parking and more bicycle
Tickets for Boston’s professional sports safety awareness. For those not comfortable
teams are hard to come by, although it’s riding on the crowded city streets, there are
sometimes possible to procure them from several scenic off-road cycling trails.
PL A N YO U R TRI P S P O R T S & A C T I V I T I E S
the teams’ websites. Otherwise, online

ticket agents always offer tickets for Water Sports
marked-up prices, as do scalpers hanging
Boston is a city by the sea, and on a river.
out around the venues.
These two waterfronts offer lots of chances
for watery fun, including canoeing, kayak-
nation’s oldest and most storied (and most ing, sailing and swimming. The season is
expensive) ball park. relatively short (April to October; July to
September for swimming) and the water is
BASKETBALL cold (average 68°F in summer), but the air
The Boston Celtics have won more basket- is salty and the breeze is sweet.
ball championships than any other NBA
team, most recently in 2008. From October
to April, they play at TD Garden (p65).
Winter Sports
The Boston College Eagles basketball In Boston, there’s plenty of winter to go
team (www.bceagles.com) is competitive in around. Outdoor ice skating rinks offer
the Atlantic Coast Conference (ACC) and is an easy way to embrace winter in the city,
usually still standing for March Madness. and there are also ski facilities (downhill
The Eagles play at Conte Forum. and cross-country) just a few miles from
the city center, including the Blue Hills
HOCKEY Ski Area (www.ski-bluehills.com) and the
Stanley Cup winners in 2011, the Boston Weston Cross-Country Ski Track (www.
Bruins (www.bostonbruins.com) play ice skiboston.com).
hockey at the TD Garden from mid-October
to mid-April. College hockey is also huge in Sports & Activities
Boston, as Harvard, Boston College and Bos- by Neighborhood
ton University teams earn the devotion of
spirited fans. The local rivalries come out in
¨¨Charlestown Set sail on the harbor. (p54)
full force during the annual Beanpot tour-
nament (www.beanpothockey.com), which ¨¨West End & North End Home of TD Garden,
occurs the first two weeks in February. the venue for the Bruins and the Celtics. (p66)
¨¨Beacon Hill & Boston Common Outdoor fun
Cruises & Whale-Watching on the Common and the Charles River. (p78)
If you’re not up for commandeering your ¨¨Downtown & Waterfront The waterfront
own boat, there are also tours that will al- offers many boating adventures. (p91)
low you to experience Boston from the wa-
¨¨South End & Chinatown Take a tour or take a
ter. Tour boats cruise the Inner Harbor and
the Charles River, as well as journey out to class. (p104)
the Harbor Islands. These tours generally ¨¨Back Bay The Charles River Esplanade is
run from April to October, though the sea- prime for running, cycling, sunning and funning.
son is shorter for the Harbor Islands. (p116)
The most rewarding boat trip from Bos- ¨¨Kenmore Square & Fenway Baseball at
ton is a whale-watching tour, which cruises Fenway Park and loads more opportunities for
out to Stellwagen Bank, a rich feeding fun in the Back Bay Fens. (p128)
ground for marine life. Eagle-eyed passen-
¨¨Seaport District & South Boston Boston’s
gers usually see several species of whales,
best city beaches. (p135)
including humpback, fin and minke, as well
as white-sided dolphins and many kinds of ¨¨Cambridge Easy access to the city’s best
sea birds. There are naturalists on board cycling and kayaking routes. (p153)
to answer questions and help spot. Whale- ¨¨Streetcar Suburbs The Emerald Necklace
watch cruises run from April to October. traverses these leafy suburbs. (p162)
41
Lonely Planet’s Emerald Necklace (p158) Best Boat Rides

Top Choices Frederick Law Olmsted’s rib-
bon of green that cuts across New England Aquarium Whale
New England Aquarium Whale Boston, from the Common to Watch (p91) A boat ride and
Watch (p91) Journey out to Franklin Park. wildlife-watching all in one.
Stellwagen Bank, a feeding Southwest Corridor (p116) An
Little Brewster (p165) Cruise
PL A N YO U R TRI P S P O R T S & A C T I V I T I E S
ground for ample marine life. urban bike route, running five
out to this distant Harbor Island
Urban AdvenTours (p211) The miles from Back Bay to Jamaica
and tour historic Boston Light.
best way to see the city is on Plain.
two wheels. Codzilla (p91) A wild ride on the
Boston Harbor.
Fenway Park (p128) See Best for Swimming
the Red Sox battle it out at Liberty Clipper (p91) Set sail
America’s oldest ball park. Walden Pond (p168) Famous on a schooner for a two-hour
from literature, this scenic kettle scenic adventure.
Frog Pond (p78) Ice skating
pond is a delightful place for a
on the Boston Common is the
cooling dip. Swan Boats (p69) These
quintessential Boston winter
activity. Boston Harbor Islands charming boats on the lagoon in
(p164) Ferry out to the islands the Public Garden are a Boston
to lounge on deserted beaches institution.
Best Sporting Events and swim in frigid water.
Boston Marathon (p20) The Carson Beach (p135) Boston’s Best for
longest-running marathon, best city beach gets crowded on Winter Sports
occurring on Patriots’ Day since weekends.
1897. Frog Pond (p78) The outdoor
Castle Island (p132) The small
rink on the Boston Common
Head of the Charles Regatta swimming beach is only the
gets crowded, but you can’t beat
(p21) The world’s largest two- beginning of the fun.
it for atmosphere.
day rowing regatta, held in
Cambridge. Community Ice Skating @
Best for Sailing &
Kendall Square (p154) Off the
Beanpot Tournament (p20) Kayaking beaten track in Kendall Sq, this
Boston’s rabidly competitive
outdoor rink is a great find.
college hockey tournament. Charles River Canoe & Kayak
Hub on Wheels (p21) A city- Center (p153) With two conveni- Rink at the Charles (p154) Ice
wide bicycle race for cyclists of ent locations, you can paddle on skating and people watching in
all capabilities. the Charles or in the Harbor. Harvard Sq.
Community Boating (p78)
Best for Cycling Experienced sailors can take a
fixed-keel, four-seat sailboat out
Best for Golf
Charles River Bike Path (p154) on the Charles River Basin.
Brookline Golf Club at Putter-
A 17-mile circuit that runs on
Courageous Sailing (p54) ham (p162) A public golf course
both sides of the Charles River
Sailing rental and instruction in Brookline, right next door to
between Boston and Watertown.
available out of Charlestown. the famous country club.
Minuteman Bikeway (p153) A
Jamaica Pond (p162) Rent a Fresh Pond Golf Course (p154)
10-mile rails-to-trails bikeway
sailboat or rowboat to explore Nine holes of golf wrapping
that runs from Cambridge to
ultracalm waters. around an idyllic reservoir.
Bedford, MA.
42
Explore Boston
Neighborhoods at Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . . 88 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
a Glance. . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
Charlestown . . . . . . . . 48 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 135
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Sports & Activities. . . . . . . . . 91 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 135

Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 South End &
Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Chinatown. . . . . . . . . . 94 Sports & Activities. . . . . . . . 135
Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . . 54 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96

Cambridge. . . . . . . . . 138
Sports & Activities. . . . . . . . . 54 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
Top Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 101
West End & Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 102
North End . . . . . . . . . . 55 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 147
Sports & Activities. . . . . . . . 104
Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 149
Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Back Bay . . . . . . . . . . 105 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . . 64 Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Sports & Activities. . . . . . . . 153
Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
Streetcar Suburbs. . . 155
Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
Sports & Activities. . . . . . . . . 66 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 113
Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158
Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 114
Beacon Hill & Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 160
Boston Common. . . . . . 67 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 161
Sports & Activities. . . . . . . . 116
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161
Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 Kenmore Square & Sports & Activities. . . . . . . . 162
Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Fenway. . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . . 76 Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 Day Trips from
Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
Boston. . . . . . . . . . . . . 163
Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
Boston Harbor Islands . . . . 164
Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
Lexington & Concord. . . . . . 166
Sports & Activities. . . . . . . . . 78 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 126
Salem. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 127
Downtown & Sports & Activities. . . . . . . . 128
Plymouth. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171
Waterfront. . . . . . . . . . 79 Provincetown . . . . . . . . . . . . 172
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 Seaport District
Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 & South Boston . . . . . 129 Sleeping. . . . . . . . . . . . 178
Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131
43
BOSTON’S
TOP SIGHTS
Charlestown Navy Yard.... 50

Bunker Hill Monument......52
Museum of Science...........57
Old North Church..............58
Public Garden.....................69
Boston Common...............70
Massachusetts
State House........................72
New England Aquarium.... 81
Old State House.................82
Trinity Church................... 107
Boston Public Library......108
Fenway Park......................119
Museum of Fine Arts.......120
Isabella Stewart
Gardner Museum.............122
Institute of
Contemporary Art............131
Harvard Yard.....................140
Massachusetts
Institute of Technology......141
Neighborhoods at a Glance
44
Neighborhoods
at a Glance
1 Charlestown p48 2 West End & North End p55

The site of the original settlement of the Mas- Although the West End and North End are
sachusetts Bay Colony, Charlestown is the physically adjacent, they are atmospherically
terminus for the Freedom Trail. Many tour- worlds apart. The West End is an institution-
ists tromp across these historic cobblestone al area without much zest. By contrast, the
sidewalks to admire the USS Constitution North End is delightfully spicy, thanks to the
and climb to the top of the Bunker Hill Monu- many Italian ristoranti and salumerie that
ment, which towers above the neighborhood. line the streets.
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3 Beacon Hill & Boston 5 South End &

Common p67 Chinatown p94
Abutted by the Boston Common and topped Chinatown, the Theater District and the
with the gold-domed Massachusetts State Leather District are overlapping areas,
House, Beacon Hill is the neighborhood filled with glitzy theaters and the remnants
most often featured on Boston postcards. of Boston’s shoe and leather industry. Near-
N E I G H BO U RH O O DS AT A G L A N C E
The retail and residential streets on Bea- by, the Victorian manses in the South End
con Hill are quintessentially Boston. have been reclaimed by artists and gays, in
a vibrant restaurant and gallery scene.
4 Downtown &
Waterfront p79 6 Back Bay p105
Much of Boston’s business and tourist ac- Back Bay includes the city’s most fashion-
tivity takes place in this central neighbor- able latte-drinking and people-watching
hood. Downtown is a bustling district area, on Newbury St, as well as its most el-
crammed with modern complexes and co- egant architecture around Copley Sq.
lonial buildings, including Faneuil Hall and
Quincy Market. The Waterfront is home to
the HarborWalk, the Harbor Island ferries 7 Kenmore Square &
and the New England Aquarium. Fenway p117
Kenmore Sq and Fenway attract club-goers
and baseball fans to the streets surround-
ing Fenway Park, as well as art lovers and
culture vultures to the institutions along
wy
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The Seaport District is a section of South
WINTHROP
Boston that is fast developing as an attrac-
Pleasan tive waterside destination, thanks to the
EAST t St
BOSTON dynamic art museum and new dining op-
tions. Travel deeper into Southie for seaside
66
Logan
– International
# breezes, a little history and a lot of beer.
Airport
DEER
ISLAND
9 Cambridge p138
Boston Stretched out along the north shore of the
Inner
6666
Harbor Charles River, Cambridge is a separate city
Boston that boasts two distinguished universities,
Harbor a host of historic sites, and artistic and cul-
Pleasure tural attractions galore.
Bay
66
66
6
Spectacle a Streetcar Suburbs p155
Island
Long
A chain of parks known as the Emerald
Island Necklace leads south to the Streetcar
Thompson Suburbs. Brookline was the birthplace of
Island John F Kennedy, while Jamaica Plain is a
Moon
Island progressive residential community with
Rainsford
Island gracious Victorian architecture and a
Quincy cutting-edge music scene.
Bay
46
TIM BUGBEE/CORBIS ©
47
Top
JOHN F. WENCESLAO, MD/GETTY IMAGES ©

Neighborhoods
at Night
As with all things, Boston’s nightlife is
richer thanks to the huge population of
students who keep it real. In Cambridge,
Allston and Kenmore Square, you’ll
find them – cool and casual – drinking,
dancing, and rocking out to awesome
indie music. The scene goes upscale in
the city center, especially in the Theater
District.
Theater District
Put on your fancy pants before heading
out to the Theater District (p102). This
is where you’ll find the glamorous set
attending a show behind a neon marquee
or getting their groove on at a glitzy
nightclub like Whisky Saigon or Stage.
After hours, drinkers and dancers go to
Chinatown for late-night noshing.
Central Square, Cambridge

1. Boston skyline by night 2. House of Blues (p128), Lansdowne St Gritty Central Square (p148 and p150) is
3. Washington St, Theater District the focal point of the Cambridge music
scene, with the Middle East and other
venues lined up along Mass Ave. Before
or after the show, you can grab a drink at
low-key bars such as Brick & Mortar and
F11PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Green Street Grill.
Lansdowne Street
Three words: beer, music and baseball.
Fenway Park occupies one side of the
street, and the opposite side is lined with
fun-filled nighttime venues (p126) such as
House of Blues, Bill’s Bar and Lansdowne
Pub. No matter where you spend the
evening, there will be a TV showing how
the Sox are faring across the street.
Harvard Ave, Allston

West of downtown Boston, Allston (p162)
is fondly known as the student ghetto, so
it’s no surprise that it’s home to Boston’s
best venues for live indie music. See
what’s on the docket at Great Scott or
Brighton Music Hall.
48
Charlestown
Neighborhood Top Five

1 Counting the 294 steps 2 Sipping an ale at the 4 Watching the sun set
as you climb to the top of same bar that propped up behind the city skyline from
the Bunker Hill Monument the founding fathers in the Pier Six (p54).
(p52), then catching your Warren Tavern (p54).
breath while you admire
5 Taking your kids to the
the 360-degree view of 3 Learning about the long USS Constitution Museum
Boston, Cambridge and and storied history of the (p51) to experience the life
beyond. USS Constitution (p50) of a sailor.
from US Navy sailors.
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For more detail of this area see Map p229 A

49
Lonely Planet’s
Explore Charlestown Top Tip
Spend a day following the Freedom Trail and you will For a unique perspective on
end up in Charlestown, as the final two sites are located Charlestown and Boston,
here. Besides seeing the historic USS Constitution and walk northeast from the
the commemorative Bunker Hill Monument, strolling Navy Yard, following the
inland from the Charlestown waterfront provides an shoreline from pier to pier.
C h a rle s tow n
opportunity to explore the neighborhood’s aged narrow Crowded with boats, this
streets, lined with 19th-century Federal and colonial working waterfront boasts
houses. Afterwards, there are a handful of restaurants one of the best views of the
and cafés surrounding City Sq and lining Main St. Boston Harbor and skyline.
Despite the historic significance, Charlestown retains
the distinctive atmosphere of a local neighborhood, with
real people (known as ‘Townies’) inhabiting the restored Best Places
town houses and working in the granite buildings. Even
5 to Eat
the eateries – however recommended – are places to ¨¨ Navy Yard Bistro & Wine
patronize if you happen to be in the area, not normally Bar (p53)
meriting a special trip. ¨¨ Figs (p53)
Charlestown was incorporated into Boston in 1873;
¨¨ Brewer’s Fork (p53)
but this neighborhood remains apart, both geographi-
cally and atmospherically. On the north shore of the For reviews, see p53 A
Charles River, it is connected to the rest of the city by the
Old Charlestown Bridge. So even though C-town sees its
fair share of tourists trudging along the Freedom Trail, Best Places
the sights and streets will not be as crowded as those in 6 to Drink
downtown Boston. ¨¨ Warren Tavern (p54)
¨¨ Pier Six (p54)
Local Life ¨¨ Zume’s Coffee House

(p54)
¨ Coffee with Kids Townies of all ages love the coffee
For reviews, see p54 A
and doughnuts at Zume’s Coffee House (p54); but it’s
especially popular among the mommy set, who bring
their kids to play with puzzles and eat grilled cheese Best
sandwiches. 1 Boats
¨ Sundowners Little known outside of Charlestown,
Pier Six (p54) attracts the local after-work crowd with ¨¨ USS Constitution (p50)
its informal atmosphere and unbeatable city view. ¨¨ USS Cassin Young (p51)
¨ Historic Hang-out Even though the Warren Tavern ¨¨ Green Turtle (p181)
(p54) is a historic site of sorts, it’s still a favorite place ¨¨ Inner Harbor Ferry (p49)
for Townies to drink beers and eat burgers.
Getting There & Away

¨ Metro The closest T stations are Community College
(orange line) and North Station (junction of orange
and green lines), both a 20-minute walk from the
Charlestown sights.
¨ Boat The MBTA runs the Inner Harbor Ferry (www.
mbta.com; $3.25; h6:30am-8:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6:30pm
Sat & Sun; YAquarium) every 15 to 30 minutes between
Charlestown Navy Yard and Long Wharf on the Boston
waterfront.
CHARLESTOWN NAVY YARD

No longer operational, the Charlestown Navy Yard DON’T MISS
stands as an architectural and historical monument to
the US Navy and its vessels. The oldest commissioned ¨¨ Guided tour of the
US Navy ship, the USS Constitution, has been moored USS Constitution
here since 1897. Another formidable warship, the USS ¨¨ Exhibit on the Bar-
Cassin Young, also docks here, inviting visitors to bary War and birth
learn about its feats during WWII. There is an excellent of the US Navy at
museum dedicated to the USS Constitution and more the USS Constitution
general naval history, while the rest of the shipyard Museum
remembers the history of the shipbuilding industry. ¨¨ Model Shipwright
Guild workshop
USS Constitution
‘Her sides are made of iron!’ So cried a crewman as he
watched a shot bounce off the thick oak hull of the USS
PRACTICALITIES
Constitution during the War of 1812. This earned the leg- ¨¨ www.nps.gov/bost
endary ship her nickname, ‘Old Ironsides.’ Indeed, she won ¨¨ h visitor center 9am-
no fewer than three battles during that war, and she never 6pm Jul-Sep, to 5pm
went down in a battle. On her last mission in 1853 she Oct-Jun
seized an American slave ship off the coast of Africa.
¨¨ g 93 from Haymar-
The USS Constitution (www.oldironsides.com; Charlestown
ket, fInner Harbor
Navy Yard; h2-6pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun; c; g93 from
Ferry from Long Wharf,
Haymarket, fInner Harbor Ferry from Long Wharf, YNorth Station)
Y North Station
F is still the oldest commissioned US Navy ship, dating
to 1797, and she is normally taken out onto Boston Harbor
every July 4 in order to maintain her commissioned status.
Currently undergoing restoration, the USS Constitution is now in dry dock until ap-
proximately 2018. She is still open to the public, but tours (given by Navy personnel) are
limited to the top deck. You’ll still learn lots of fun facts, though, like how the captain’s
son died on her maiden voyage (an inauspicious start). Make sure you bring photo ID to
go aboard.
51
USS Constitution Museum FREE FILM

For a play-by-play account of the various battles of
the USS Constitution, as well as her current role as Don’t miss the free
the flagship of the US Navy, head to the USS Con- 10-minute introductory
stitution Museum (www.ussconstitutionmuseum.org; film about the history of
First Ave, Charlestown Navy Yard; donation adult/child from the Charlestown Navy
C h a rle s tow n C ha r l e stown N av y Ya r d

$5/3; h9am-6pm Apr-Oct, 10am-5pm Nov-Mar; c; g93 Yard, shown throughout
from Haymarket, fInner Harbor Ferry from Long Wharf, the day at the NPS visi-
YNorth Station). Most interesting is the exhibit on tor center.
the Barbary War, which explains the birth of the
US Navy during this relatively unknown conflict –
America’s first war at sea. The copper fasten-
On the ground floor, the Model Shipwright Guild ings for the interior
operates a workshop, where visitors can see vol- of the USS Constitu-
unteer modelers working on fantastically detailed tion were made in
miniatures of the USS Constitution and other ships. Paul Revere’s metal-
Upstairs, kids can experience what it was like to works shop.
be a sailor on the USS Constitution in 1812. The in-
teractive exhibit All Hands on Deck showcases the
swashbuckling lifestyle.
USS
USS Cassin Young CONSTITUTION
This formidable vessel is an example of a Fletcher- MUSEUM
class destroyer – a W WII craft that was the Navy’s
fastest, most versatile ship at the time. This 376ft The USS Constitution
destroyer was designed as an all-purpose ship, able Museum is a private,
to fight off attacks on all fronts. Able to refuel at sea, nonprofit organization
the destroyer could travel further and operate more dedicated to preserv-
effectively in the vastness of the Pacific. ing the memory of, and
USS Cassin Young (Charlestown Navy Yard; h10am- promoting education
5pm Tue-Sun Jul & Aug, to 4pm Apr-Jun & Sep-Nov; g93 about, the historic ship,
from Haymarket, fInner Harbor Ferry from Long Wharf, so your admission do-
YNorth Station) F participated in the 1944 Bat- nation goes to a good
tle of Leyte Gulf, as well as the 1945 invasion of cause.
Okinawa. Here, the ship sustained two kamikaze
hits, leaving 23 crew members dead and many more
wounded. These days she has been completely refur- A former command-
bished, as you can see during a free 45-minute tour, ing officer of the
or if you choose to wander around the main deck. USS Constitution,
Tyron Martin, spent
Charlestown Navy Yard
30 years compiling
Besides the historic ships docked here and the muse-
a database of some
um dedicated to them, the Charlestown Navy Yard
15,000 sailors who
is a living monument to its own history of shipbuild-
served on the ship
ing and naval command. It was a thriving shipbuild-
over the years, in-
ing center throughout the 19th century, but finally
cluding the 1182 in-
closed in 1974, ushering in a new era for the neigh-
dividuals who served
borhood. (Nowadays, it’s tourists instead of sailors
during the War of
who come ashore here.) Most of the buildings are
1812.
not open to the public, but you can wander around
the dry docks and see how the ships were repaired
while resting on wooden blocks. The oldest building
in the yard is the imposing Federal-style Comman-
dant’s House, dating to 1805.
BUNKER HILL MONUMENT
JORGE SALCEDO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
‘Don’t fire until you see the whites of their eyes!’ came DON’T MISS
the order from Colonel Prescott to revolutionary troops
on June 17, 1775. Considering the ill-preparedness ¨¨ The view from the
of the revolutionary soldiers, the bloody battle that top!
followed resulted in a surprising number of British ¨¨ Bunker Hill Day road
casualties. Ultimately, the Redcoats prevailed, but the race and parade
victory was bittersweet. The British lost more than ¨¨ Diorama of the
one third of their deployed forces, while the colonists Battle of Bunker Hill
suffered relatively few casualties. Equally importantly,
the battle demonstrated the gumption of the upstart
revolutionaries. PRACTICALITIES
¨¨ www.nps.gov/bost
Bunker Hill Monument ¨¨ Monument Sq
Climb the 294 steps of the Bunker Hill Monument to enjoy
¨¨ admission free
the panorama of the city. From April to June, you’ll need
¨¨ h9am-5:30pm
a climbing pass, which is available at the museum across
the street. Jul & Aug, to 4:15pm
The 220ft granite obelisk monument was built between Sep-Jun
1827 and 1843, overseen by a design team that included ¨¨ c
such local luminaries as orator Daniel Webster and artist ¨¨ g 93 from Hay-
Gilbert Stuart. Long on ideas but short on cash, the team market, Y Community
had to sell off most of the battleground to fund the monu- College
ment, retaining only the land at the summit. By the way,
the name of the Battle of Bunker Hill is misleading, as
most of the fighting took place on Breed’s Hill, where the monument stands today.
Bunker Hill Museum

Opposite the monument, the Bunker Hill Museum (43 Monument Sq; h9am-5pm; c; g93
from Haymarket, YCommunity College) F contains two floors of exhibits, including histori-
cal dioramas, a few artifacts and an impressive 360-degree mural depicting the battle. If
you can find where the artist signed his masterpiece, you win a prize.
53
LENNY ZAKIM & BUNKER HILL

Driving north from Boston on the Central Artery, your car emerges from the Tip
O’Neill Tunnel into the open air, where you are surrounded on all sides by the Bos-
ton city skyline and the crisp white cables of the Leonard Zakim Bunker Hill Bridge.
Capped with obelisks that mirror its namesake monument, it is the widest cable-
stayed bridge in the world. And against the clear blue sky or dark night, it is stunning.
C h a rle s tow n S ights

Lenny Zakim was a local human-rights activist who spent years railing against rac-
ism. Bunker Hill was the battle where the patriots first proved their potency in the War
for Independence. As Mayor Menino said at the dedication: ‘The Leonard P Zakim
Bunker Hill Bridge will showcase the diversity and the unity of race, religion and per-
sonal background that exist in Boston today, because of the work of community lead-
ers like Lenny Zakim and because patriots fought long ago in Charlestown to make
our country independent.’ It’s a stretch, but he managed to merge these disparate
dedicatees.
1 SIGHTS oven is the star of the show, but this place

also does amazing things with its cheese
CHARLESTOWN NAVY YARD HISTORIC SITE and charcuterie boards.
See p50.
oNAVY YARD BISTRO &
BUNKER HILL MONUMENT MONUMENT WINE BAR FRENCH $$
See p52. (www.navyyardbistro.com; cnr Second Ave & Sixth
St; mains $18-28; h5-10pm; g93 from Hay-
GREAT HOUSE SITE ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
market, fInner Harbor Ferry from Long Wharf,
(City Sq; hdawn-dusk; fInner Harbor Ferry from
YNorth Station) Dark and romantic, this
Long Wharf, YNorth Station) F Besides be-
hideaway is tucked into an off-street pe-
ing an urban plaza, the aptly named City destrian walkway, allowing for comfortable
Sq is also an archaeological site. Big Dig outdoor seating in summer months. Inside,
construction unearthed the foundation of the cozy, carved-wood interior is an ideal
a structure called the Great House, widely date destination – perfect for roasted quail
believed to be John Winthrop’s house and or braised short ribs.
the seat of government in 1630.
JOHN HARVARD MALL SQUARE

oFIGS ITALIAN $$
(www.toddenglishfigs.com; 67 Main St; mains $15-
(btw Main & Harvard Sts; hdawn-dusk; fF4
20; h11:30am-10pm; v c ; YCommunity Col-
from Long Wharf, YNorth Station) North of
lege) This creative pizzeria – which also has
City Sq, a shady, brick plaza leads up Town
an outlet in Beacon Hill – is the brainchild
Hill. Back in the days of the earliest Euro-
of celebrity chef Todd English, who tops
pean settlements, a fort crowned Town Hill,
whisper-thin crusts with interesting, exotic
which you can read about on the bronze
toppings. Case in point: the namesake fig
plaques along the mall.
and prosciutto with gorgonzola cheese. The
menu also includes sandwiches and fresh
pasta.
5 EATING LEGAL OYSTERIA SEAFOOD $$
oBREWER’S FORK PIZZA $$ (%617-712-1988; www.legalseafoods.com; 10 City
(www.brewersfork.com; 7 Moulton St; small plates Sq; mains $17-25; h4pm-1am Mon-Fri, 10am-1am
$8-14, pizza $14-18; h5-11:30pm; g93 from Hay- Sat & Sun; g93 from Haymarket, YNorth Sta-
market, fInner Harbor Ferry from Long Wharf, tion) Not an osteria, but an ‘Oysteria.’ Get
YNorth Station) This casual hipster hangout – it? This is seafood with an Italian twist, so
a Charlestown newcomer – has quickly you’ll find dishes like Ligurian fish stew,
become a local favorite, thanks to its entic- swordfish salmoriglio and even roasted
ing menu of small plates and pizzas, not to clam pizza. The seafood is a welcome ad-
mention the excellent, oft-changing selec- dition to the limited dining options in
tion of about 30 craft beers. The wood-fired Charlestown.
54
WARREN TAVERN
Eliphelet Newell was an ardent supporter of the revolutionary cause and a supposed
participant in the Boston Tea Party. When the War for Independence was over, he
opened a tavern and named it after his dear friend General Joseph Warren. Although
Warren had died in the Battle of Bunker Hill, he had been an active member of the
C h a rle s tow n D r in k ing & N ightlif e
Sons of Liberty and a respected leader of the revolution.

So when the Warren Tavern was opened in 1780 it quickly became a popular meeting
place, especially among admirers of General Warren. Over the years Paul Revere was a
regular and even George Washington stopped by for a visit when he was in town. Nowa-
days locals still love to gather here to drink a few pints and engage in debates.
TANGIERINO MOROCCAN $$$ KOULLSHI LOUNGE

(%617-242-6009; www.tangierino.com; 83 Main (www.koullshi.com; 83 Main St; h5pm-1:30am;
St; tapas $9-15, mains $25-36; h5pm-1am; v; YCommunity College) First and foremost,
YCommunity College) This unexpected gem it’s a hookah lounge, with plush furniture,
transports guests from a colonial town ornately carved woodwork, nightly belly-
house in historic Charlestown to a sultan’s dancing shows and sophisticated flavors of
palace in the Moroccan desert. North Afri- tobacco. A little bit exotic, a little bit erotic
can specialties include harira (a traditional (a little bit expensive). Since people are
tomato and lentil soup), couscous and ta- smoking anyway, they added a cigar bar
jine, all with a modern flair. with a walk-in humidor. Perhaps exotic, but
not so erotic.
DRINKING & FIREHOUSE

6 NIGHTLIFE VENDING MACHINE VENDING MACHINE
(34 Winthrop St; YCommunity College) The
oWARREN TAVERN PUB kind firefighters at Engine Company 50
(www.warrentavern.com; 2 Pleasant St; h11am- work in a sweet 19th-century firehouse
1am Mon-Fri, 10am-1am Sat & Sun; YCommunity with the Freedom Trail passing close by. On
College) One of the oldest pubs in Boston, most summer days, they open up one of the
the Warren Tavern has been pouring pints bays so that hot walkers have access to a
for its customers since George Washington vending machine that sells cold drinks, em-
and Paul Revere drank here. It is named for bedded in some old wooden lockers covered
General Joseph Warren, a fallen hero of the in departmental patches.
Battle of Bunker Hill.
SPORTS &
PIER SIX
(www.pier6boston.com; 1 Eighth St, Pier 6;
BAR 2 ACTIVITIES
h11am-1am; g 93 from Haymarket, fInner Har- COURAGEOUS SAILING SAILING
bor Ferry from Long Wharf, YNorth Station) Set (%617-242-3821; www.courageoussailing.org;
at the end of the pier behind the Navy Yard, Pier 4; per hour sailboat rental/lesson $15/45;
this understated tavern offers one of the h noon-sunset Mon-Fri, 10am-sunset Sat & Sun
loveliest views of the Boston Harbor and Jun-Oct; c; g93 from Haymarket, fInner
city skyline. Harbor Ferry from Long Wharf, YNorth Station)
Named after a two-time America’s Cup win-
ZUME’S COFFEE HOUSE CAFÉ
ner, Courageous Sailing offers instruction
(www.zumescoffeehouse.com; 223 Main St; and boat rental for sailors and would-be
h6am-6pm Mon-Fri, 7am-5pm Sat & Sun, re-
sailors. Kayaks are also available. A unique
duced hours in winter; Wc ; YCommunity Col- public-private partnership, this outfit was
lege) This is slightly off the beaten path (aka established by the City of Boston with the
the Freedom Trail), but locals love it for the support of private individuals, with the aim
comfy leather chairs, homemade English of making sailing accessible to kids and
muffins and decadent doughnuts. adults of all ages, incomes and abilities.
55
West End & North End

1 Strolling the cobble- 2 Gawking at the archi- 4 Discovering how fun sci-
stone streets, browsing the tecture and appreciating the ence can be at the Museum
boutiques and soaking up irony at the Liberty Hotel of Science (p57).
the Old World atmosphere (p181).
in the North End, then 5 Exploring the quaint,
squeezing into one of the 3 Gazing at the steeple of cramped quarters at the
candlelit tables at Pomo- the Old North Church (p58) Paul Revere House (p60),
doro (p61) for amazing and imagining the lanterns Boston’s oldest home.
Italian food and service. signalling the Redcoats’
approach.
Ru
t he CHARLESTOWN
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dA Hoosac
Nor
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# 00 500 m
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Revere
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Charlestown US Coast Harbor
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sig Constitution
no Bridge Piers
rO Com Wharf
# ' Bri
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Bowdoin St Ne
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Temple St
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pw
Joy St
Garden St
i Hall Long y
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Somerset St
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Plaza Wharf
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WATERFRONT
t
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Pinckney St Cou Kennedy Central
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Greenway Wharf
acon St
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HILL Common 1 1
For more detail of this area see Maps p230 and p232 A
56
Lonely Planet’s
Top Tip Explore West End & North End
Bad news: it’s impossible to These side-by-side neighborhoods could not be more dif-
park in the North End. Good ferent from each other. The West End – formerly a mul-
news: Parcel-7 parking ticultural, working class neighborhood – was virtually
garage (136 Blackstone St) razed by ‘urban renewal’ in the 1950s. Now its streets
offers three hours of park- are dominated by concrete monoliths and institutional
ing for $3 if you get your buildings, including the extensive facilities of Mass Gen-
ticket validated by a North eral Hospital and many government buildings. Most vis-
End establishment. itors to Boston bypass this bleak district, unless they are
catching a train at North Station or attending an event
at the Garden.
W e s t E n d & N o rth E n d
Best Places That said, the West End borders Beacon Hill and
5 to Eat downtown Boston, putting many historic and cultural
sites within walking distance. The West End is actually a
¨¨ Pomodoro (p61)
convenient and comfortable place to stay, and there are a
¨¨ Neptune Oyster (p62)
few fine hotels that offer excellent value for the location.
¨¨ Scampo (p61) By contrast, the North End feels like an Old World
¨¨ Galleria Umberto (p61) enclave that has hardly changed in the last century. Ital-
ian immigrants and their descendants have held court
in this warren of narrow streets and alleys since the
1920s. Old-timers still carry on passionate discussions in
Italian and play bocce in the park. The neighborhood’s
Best Places
6 to Drink main streets are packed with ristoranti and salumerie
(Italian delis), not to mention bakeries, pizzerias, coffee
¨¨ Ward 8 (p64) shops, wine shops and cheese mongers. The North End
¨¨ Caffé Vittoria (p65) is a required destination for everyone who likes to eat.
The Freedom Trail also winds through the North
¨¨ Boston Beer Works (p64)
End, with stops at the Paul Revere House, the Old North
For reviews, see p64 A Church and Copp’s Hill Burying Ground. Indeed, this
peninsula was an integral part of Boston long before the
Italians arrived, and some of these landmarks date back
Best Places to the 17th century. Come during the day to see the sights
1 to Stock and learn the history, but come back at night for dinner.
your Kitchen
¨¨ Salumeria Italiana (p108) Local Life
¨¨ Polcari’s Coffee (p108)
¨¨ Bricco Salumeria (p65)
¨ Drinks Watch futbol, drink Campari and speak
Italian (or just listen) at Caffé dello Sport (p65) or Caffé
¨¨ Wine Bottega (p66)
Paradiso (p65).
For reviews, see p65 A ¨ Saints North Enders get lively in August, when they
celebrate their favorite saints during the weekend
Italian Festivals. If you can’t come in August, visit All
Saints Way (p109) to see the locals’ fervor.

¨ Metro For the West End, use the red-line Charles/
MGH or the blue-line Bowdoin station to access sites
along Cambridge St. At the junction of the green and
orange lines, North Station is more convenient for the
northern part of the neighborhood. For the North End,
the closest T station is Haymarket, which lies on both
the green and orange lines.
57
MUSEUM OF SCIENCE
This educational playground has more than 600 DON’T MISS

interactive exhibits. Favorites include the world’s
largest lightning-bolt generator, a full-scale space ¨¨ Tyrannosaurus rex
capsule, a world population meter and a butterfly ¨¨ Full-size model of
house. The amazing array of exhibits and presentations the Apollo command
explores computers and technology, maps and module that landed on
models, the human body and human evolution, and the moon
the birds and the bees (both literally and figuratively). ¨¨ Hall of Human Life
W e s t E n d & N o rth E n d M U S E U M O F S C I E N C E
Dinosaurs
One of the museum’s main attractions is its excellent collec-
PRACTICALITIES
tion of dinosaur fossils and life-size models, including the ¨¨ Map p230
rare 23ft-long triceratops known as Cliff. The centerpiece ¨¨ www.mos.org
of the exhibit is the impressive Tyrannosaurus rex model,
¨¨ Charles River Dam
which has evolved significantly from the original model
¨¨ adult/child $23/20
that was built in the 1960s. The exhibit demonstrates how
paleontologists use fossils to learn about extinct animals ¨¨ h9am-7pm Sat-
and their evolutionary predecessors. Thu Jul & Aug, to 5pm
Sep-Jun, to 9pm Fri
Hall of Human Life year-round
This fascinating new biology exhibit examines the intrica- ¨¨ p c
cies of the human body, posing and answering questions ¨¨ Y Science Park/
like: ‘What keeps you awake?’ and ‘How efficiently do you West End
walk?’ In some 70 different interactive displays, visitors
can measure their own bodily functions and track their
own data. Don’t miss the incubator full of hatching chicks.
Alternative Energy
There are excellent exhibits on alternative sources of energy, including a detailed look
at how energy is generated from wind turbines and solar power. Catch the Wind allows
visitors to monitor the electricity being produced by turbines on the museum’s roof. En-
ergized! follows the path of energy as it travels from sunlight to rooftop panels to the
‘Theater of Electricity.’
Green Wing
The Green Wing contains the museum’s old-fashioned exhibits, including dioramas of
New England habitats and taxidermied animals. A Bird’s World contains a stuffed speci-
men of every single bird found in the region.
Discovery Center
This hands-on play area and educational center is specifically designed for children under
the age of eight. Museum staff oversee science experiments, engineering projects and live-
animal presentations. Costumes and oversized climbing structures invite little ones to
imagine life inside a beehive or a bird’s nest.
Charles Hayden Planetarium & Mugar Omni Theater

The museum also houses the Charles Hayden Planetarium (adult/child $10/9) and Mu-
gar Omni Theater (p65). The planetarium boasts a state-of-the-art projection system that
casts a heavenly star show, and offers programs about black holes and other astronomical
mysteries, and evening laser light shows with rock music.
OLD NORTH CHURCH
HDNRG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
‘Hang a lantern aloft in the belfry arch/Of the North DON’T MISS
Church tower as a signal light/One if by land, two if by
sea/And I on the opposite shore will be…’ Longfellow’s ¨¨ Elaborate brass
poem, ‘Paul Revere’s Ride,’ has immortalized this chandeliers lit with
graceful church. It was here, on the night of April candles
18, 1775, that the sexton hung two lanterns from the ¨¨ The decorated Bay
steeple, as a signal that the British would advance on Pew
Lexington and Concord via the sea route. ¨¨ Behind the Scenes
Also called Christ Church, this 1723 place of worship is tour into the belfry and
Boston’s oldest church. Many of the tall pew boxes bear the crypt
brass nameplates of early parishioners who had to purchase ¨¨ Lovely 18th-century
their pews. The brass chandeliers used today were first lit gardens behind the
on Christmas in 1724. Note the candles – there is no electric church
lighting in the church. This remains an active church; the
grand organ is played at the 11am Sunday service.
The 175ft steeple houses the oldest bells (1744) still rung PRACTICALITIES
in the US. Restored in 1975, the eight bells are normally
¨¨ Map p232
rung on Saturday mornings. Today’s steeple is a 1954 rep-
lica, since severe weather toppled two prior ones, but the ¨¨ www.oldnorth.com
1740 weather vane is original. ¨¨ 193 Salem St
All visitors are invited to enjoy a free 10-minute presen- ¨¨ requested donation
tation about the history of the Old North Church. For more $3, tour adult/child
detailed information, a 30-minute Behind the Scenes $6/4
tour (hourly July to October) takes visitors up into the bel- ¨¨ h9am-5pm
fry and down into the crypt. Mar-Oct, 10am-4pm
Behind the church, several hidden brick courtyards offer Tue-Sun Nov-Feb
quiet respite for a moment of peaceful meditation. Heading ¨¨ Y Haymarket or
down the hill, shady Paul Revere Mall perfectly frames the North Station
Old North Church. Often called ‘the Prado’ by locals, it is
a lively meeting place for North Enders of all generations.
59
1 SIGHTS house has had quite a history, serving as

a women’s bath and rooming house. These
days it is the headquarters of the preserva-
tionist society Historic New England.
1 West End
NEW ENGLAND SPORTS MUSEUM MUSEUM
MUSEUM OF SCIENCE MUSEUM Map p230 (www.sportsmuseum.org; TD Garden;
See p57. adult/child $12/6; h10am-4pm except event
days; YNorth Station) Nobody can say that
WEST END MUSEUM MUSEUM
Bostonians are not passionate about their
Map p230 (www.thewestendmuseum.org; 150 sports teams. The New England Sports Mu-
Staniford St; hnoon-5pm Tue-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat; seum is not the best place to witness this
YNorth Station) F This gem of a neighbor- deep-rooted devotion (try Fenway Park for
W e s t E n d & N o rth E n d S ights

hood museum is dedicated to preserving the that), but sports fans will enjoy the pho-
memory of the West End and educating the tographs, jerseys and other items from
public about the ramifications of unchecked Boston sports history. The highlight is the
urban development. The main exhibit The Boston Garden Theater, complete with
Last Tenement traces the history of the boards, glass and the hard wooden seats
neighborhood from 1850 to 1958, highlight- from the storied old Boston Garden.
ing its immigrant populations, economic Also on display are Larry Bird’s locker,
evolution and eventual destruction. Adam Vinatieri’s shoes and Tony Conigli-
Additional space is devoted to temporary aro’s baseball (yes, the one that landed on
exhibits that highlight former residents, his left eye and derailed his career). Other
neighborhood architecture and broader is- interesting exhibits showcase the develop-
sues of historic preservation. The museum ment of women’s basketball, the history of
also hosts occasional concerts, book talks football before the Patriots and – of course –
and guided tours. a century in Red Sox nation.
This museum is actually in the con-
OTIS HOUSE HISTORIC SITE
course area of the Garden’s box seats. The
Map p230 (www.historicnewengland.org; 141 good news is that if you go on a game day,
Cambridge St; adult/child $10/5; h11am-5pm you may see the Celtics or the Bruins warm-
Wed-Sun; YCharles/MGH) This stern, Federal ing up. The bad news is that it often closes
brick building was the first of three houses for special events at the Garden; closing
designed by Charles Bulfinch for Mr Harri- days are posted in advance on the website.
son Gray Otis at the end of the 18th century.
Preservationists have recreated the interior ETHER DOME HISTORIC SITE
of Otis’ day, complete with flashy wallpa- Map p230 (www.massgeneral.org; Mass Gen-
per and exquisite period furnishings. Tours eral Hospital, 4th fl; h9am-5pm; p ; YCharles/
take place every half-hour. MGH) F On October 16, 1846, Thomas
A real-estate developer, congressman WG Morton administered ether to the pa-
and mayor of Boston, Otis and his wife Sal- tient Gilbert Abbott, while Dr John Col-
ly were renowned entertainers who hosted lins Warren cut a tumor from his neck. It
many lavish parties here. Since then the was the first use of anesthesia in a surgical
GREAT MOLASSES FLOOD OF 1919

For years Boston was a leader in the production and export of rum, made from West Indi-
an sugar cane. Near the water’s edge in the North End stood a storage tank for the Purity
Distilling Company. On a January morning in 1919, the large tank, filled to the brim with
brown molasses, suddenly began shuddering and rumbling as its bindings came undone.
The pressure caused the tank to explode, spewing 2 million gallons of molasses
into the city like a volcano. The sweet explosion leveled surrounding tenements,
knocked buildings off their foundations and wiped out a loaded freight train. Panic-
stricken, people and animals fled the deadly ooze. The Great Molasses Flood killed a
dozen horses and 21 people, and injured more than 100. The clean-up lasted nearly
six months. Dark Tide, by journalist Stephen Puleo, provides a fascinating account of
the causes and controversy surrounding this devastating explosion.
60
procedure and it happened in this domed in his foundry. The Freedom Trail ticket
operating room in Mass General Hospital. (which includes entry to the Paul Revere
The dome is still used today for meetings House, the Old State House and the Old
and lectures, so it is sometimes closed. South Meeting House) is $13.
The dome looks like a typical, old-fash- The adjacent Pierce-Hichborn House,
ioned hall used for lectures and medical built in 1710, is a fine example of an English
demonstrations, up to and including the Renaissance brick house. Also maintained
skeleton hanging in the corner. There are a by the Paul Revere Memorial Association,
few other items to see, including a painting you can visit it by guided tour.
of the first anesthetized surgery. COPP’S HILL BURYING GROUND CEMETERY
Map p232 (Hull St; hdawn-dusk; YNorth Sta-
tion) The city’s second-oldest cemetery –
1 North End
W e s t E n d & N o rth E n d E ating
dating to 1660 – is the final resting place

for an estimated 10,000 souls. It is named
OLD NORTH CHURCH CHURCH
for William Copp, who originally owned
See p58. this land. While the oldest graves belong
PAUL REVERE HOUSE HISTORIC SITE
to Copp’s children, there are several other
noteworthy residents.
Map p232 (www.paulreverehouse.org; 19 North
Near the Charter St gate you’ll find the
Sq; adult/child $3.50/1; h9:30am-5:15pm mid-
graves of the Mather family – Increase,
Apr–Oct, to 4:15pm Nov–mid-Apr, closed Mon Jan-
Cotton and Samuel – all of whom were po-
Mar; c; YHaymarket) When silversmith Paul litically powerful religious leaders in the
Revere rode to warn patriots of the British colonial community. Front and center is the
march to Lexington and Concord, he set grave of Daniel Malcolm, whose headstone
out from his home on North Sq. This small commemorates his rebel activism. British
clapboard house was built in 1680, making soldiers apparently took offense and used
it the oldest house in Boston. A self-guided the headstone for target practice.
tour through the house and courtyard gives
a glimpse of what life was like for the Re- NARROWEST HOUSE HISTORIC SITE
vere family (which included 16 children!). Map p232 (44 Hull St; YNorth Station) Across
Also on display are some examples of his the street from Copp’s Hill Burying Ground,
silversmithing and engraving talents, as this is Boston’s narrowest house, measuring
well as an impressive bell that was forged a whopping 9½ft wide. Sometimes called a
‘spite house,’ the four-story, c 1800 edifice
was reportedly built to block light from the
neighbor’s house and to obliterate the view
ITALIAN FESTIVALS of the house behind it.
In July and August, the North End
takes on a celebratory air, as old-timer
Italians host festivals to honor their 5 EATING
patron saints. The streets fill with local
residents listening to music, playing
games and eating. The highlight is
5 West End
the saint’s parade, where the life-size After the massive redevelopment of the
likeness of the saint is hoisted onto a 1950s and more recent construction related
wooden platform and carried through to the Big Dig, the West End is suffering
the streets, while residents cheer and from a shortage of eating options.
toss confetti. Banners stream behind
the statue so that believers can pin CAFE RUSTICO ITALIAN $
on their dollar bills, thus earning the Map p230 (www.caferusticoboston.com; 85 Canal
protection of the saint’s watchful St; mains $7-10; h7am-4pm Mon-Sat; Wv c;
eye. While the saints’ festivals occur YNorth Station) This family-run Italian
throughout the summer, the biggest joint is one of Boston’s best-kept secrets.
events are the Fisherman’s Feast But those in the know keep coming back
(www.fishermansfeast.com) and St An- for more – staff seem to know everyone by
thony’s Feast (www.stanthonysfeast. name, or at least by favorite sandwich. The
com), both in late August. gnocchi is the hands-down favorite.
61
SCAMPO ITALIAN $$$
Map p230 (%617-536-2100; www.scampoboston. MIKE’S VS MODERN
com; 215 Charles St; mains lunch $10-18, dinner
Only slightly less tempestuous than
$25-38; h11:30am-10pm Sun-Wed, to 11pm Thu-
the rivalry between the Red Sox and
Sat; v; YCharles/MGH) Celeb chef Lydia
the Yankees, is the rivalry between
Shire is the brains and brawn behind this
Mike’s Pastry (Map p232; www.mikes-
trendy restaurant on the ground floor of
pastry.com; 300 Hanover St; pastries
the Liberty Hotel. Scampo offers handmade
$3-5; h 8am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11:30pm
pasta and irresistible thin-crust pizza, as
Fri & Sat; YHaymarket) and Modern
well as a full mozzarella bar.
Pastry (Map p232; www.modernpastry.
com; 257 Hanover St; sweets $2-4; h8am-
5 North End 10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri, to midnight

Sat; YHaymarket), only a block apart on
The streets of the North End are lined Hanover St. If you have time to wait in
with salumerie and pasticcerie (pastry line, you might as well sample both and
stores) and more ristoranti per block than decide for yourself. If you don’t have
anywhere else in Boston. Hanover St is the time to wait in line, go to Maria’s.
main drag, but the southern end of Salem
St is loaded, too. Many places do not take
reservations, so arrive early. 9pm Mon-Sat, 9am-5pm Sun; Wv c; YHaymar-
ket) If you’re in the mood for a ‘lobsta roll,’
MARIA’S PASTRY BAKERY $ head directly to Pauli’s to be served up 7oz
Map p232 (www.mariaspastry.com; 46 Cross St; of pink succulent goodness, stuffed into a
pastries $3-5; h7am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun; lightly grilled hot dog roll.
v ; YHaymarket) Three generations of Mero-
la women are now working to bring you LULU’S SWEET SHOPPE DESSERTS $
Boston’s most authentic Italian pastries. Map p232 (www.lulussweetshoppeboston.com;

Many claim that Maria makes the best can- 57 Salem St; sweets $2.50-5; h11:30am-9pm;
noli in the North End, but you’ll also find c ; Y Haymarket) If you ever wondered
more elaborate concoctions like sfogliatelle what constitutes a ‘shoppe’ with a double-
(layered, shell-shaped pastry filled with p-e, this is it. Come to Lulu’s for old-fash-
ricotta) and aragosta (cream-filled ‘lobster ioned, high-end sweet treats like fancy
tail’ pastry). Note the early closing time. cupcakes and homemade ice cream (but
no cannoli). There’s also a selection of fun
GALLERIA UMBERTO PIZZA $ retro candy that you haven’t seen since the
Map p232 (289 Hanover St; mains $2-6; h11am- olden days.
2:30pm Mon-Sat; v c ; YHaymarket) Paper
plates, cans of soda, Sicilian pizza: can’t oPOMODORO ITALIAN $$
beat it. This lunchtime legend closes as Map p232 (%617-367-4348; 351 Hanover St;
soon as the slices are gone. And considering mains brunch $12, dinner $23-24; h5-11pm Mon-
their thick and chewy goodness, that’s of- Fri, noon-11pm Sat & Sun; YHaymarket) Pomo-
ten before the official 2:30pm closing time. doro has a new (slightly larger) location,
but it’s still one of the North End’s most ro-
PIZZERIA REGINA PIZZA $ mantic settings for delectable Italian. The
Map p232 (www.pizzeriaregina.com; 11½ Thacher food is simple but perfectly prepared: fresh
St; pizzas $14-21; h11am-11:30pm; v c ; YHay- pasta, spicy tomato sauce, grilled fish and
market) The queen of North End pizzerias meats, and wine by the glass. Cash only.
is the legendary Pizzeria Regina, famous
for brusque but endearing waitresses and PARLA ITALIAN $$
crispy, thin-crust pizza. Thanks to the Map p232 (%617-367-2824; www.parlaboston.
slightly spicy sauce (flavored with aged ro- com; 230 Hanover St; mains brunch $12-16, dinner
mano), Regina repeatedly wins accolades $22-27; h4pm-midnight Mon-Sat, 11am-midnight
for its pies and pitchers of beer. Sun; v; YHaymarket) If you have a hankering
for something a little different, duck into
PAULI’S SANDWICHES $ this tiny hole-in-the-wall with a retro, Prohi-
Map p232 (www.paulisnorthend.com; 65 Salem bition-era theme. The food is Italian, but the
St; sandwiches $7-9, lobster rolls $16; h8am- chef does not shy away from international
62
influences and modern cooking techniques,
resulting in quite original (and mostly deli-
cious) dishes. Cocktails are inventive, as you
would expect from a speakeasy. 22 Local Life
Italian Culture in
DAILY CATCH SEAFOOD $$
the North End
Map p232 (www.dailycatch.com; 323 Hanover St; The North End’s warren of alleyways
mains $18-23; h11am-10pm; YHaymarket) Al- retains the old-world flavor brought
though owner Paul Freddura long ago add- by Italian immigrants, ever since
ed a few tables and an open kitchen, this they started settling here in the
shoebox fish joint still retains the atmos- early 20th century. And when we say
phere of a retail fish market (complete with ‘flavor,’ we’re not being metaphorical.
wine served in plastic cups). Fortunately, it We mean garlic, basil and oregano,
also retains the freshness of the fish.. sauteed in extra-virgin olive oil, rich
tomato sauces that have simmered
GIACOMO’S RISTORANTE ITALIAN $$ for hours, amaretto and anise, and
Map p232 (www.giacomosblog-boston.blogspot. delicious, creamy gelato.
com; 355 Hanover St; mains $14-19; h4:30-
10:30pm Mon-Sat, 4-9:30pm Sun; v; YHaymar- 1 North End Park
ket) Customers line up before the doors open Grab a snack from Maria’s Pastry (p61),
so they can guarantee themselves a spot then cross the street to sit in the shade
in the first round of seating at this North under grape vines in North End Park
End favorite. Enthusiastic and entertaining (Map p232; www.rosekennedygreenway.org;
waiters plus cramped quarters ensure that Y Haymarket), designed as the neighbor-
you get to know your neighbors. The cui- hood’s ‘front porch.’
sine is no-frills southern Italian fare, served
in unbelievable portions. Cash only. 2 Polcari’s Coffee
Since 1932, Polcari’s Coffee (Map
CARMELINA’S ITALIAN $$ p232; www.polcariscoffee.com; 105 Salem
Map p232 (www.carmelinasboston.com; 307 St; h9:30am-6pm Mon-Sat; YHaymarket)
Hanover St; mains $16-24; hnoon-10:30pm; v; is where North Enders have stocked
YHaymarket) There’s a lot to look at when up on their beans. Look for 27 kinds of
you sit down at Carmelina’s, whether you imported coffee, over 150 spices and an
face the busy, open kitchen or the massive impressive selection of legumes, grains
windows overlooking Hanover St. This un- and loose teas.
derstated, contemporary space serves up
truly drool-worthy Sicilian dishes. 3 North End Branch Library
The local library (Map 232; 25 Parmenter
oNEPTUNE OYSTER SEAFOOD $$$
St; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat; YHaymarket)
Map p232 (%617-742-3474; www.neptuneoyster.
F contains an impressive plaster
com; 63 Salem St; mains $19-35; h11:30am-
model of the Palazzo Ducale in Venice,
10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; YHaymarket)
built in the early 20th century by a local
Neptune’s menu hints at Italian, but you’ll
artist and school teacher, Miss Henrietta
also find elements of Mexican, French and
Macy, who moved to Venice but never
old-fashioned New England. The daily sea-
forgot her students back in Boston. Figu-
food specials and raw bar confirm that this
rines of 16th-century Venetians show off
is not your traditional North End eatery.
the fashions of the era.
CARMEN TRATTORIA ITALIAN $$$
Map p232 (%617-742-6421; www.carmenboston. 4 Gigi Gelateria
com; 33 North Sq; mains lunch $14-21, dinner Gelato is a denser, softer version of
$23-36; hnoon-3pm Thu-Sat & 5:30-9pm Tue- American ice cream. It’s made with milk
Sun; YHaymarket) Exposed brick walls and instead of cream, giving it a lower fat
candlelit tables are good for romance; in- content, but it’s no less satisfying on a
teresting and exotic menu combinations are hot day – stop by Gigi Gelateria (Map
good for culinary indulgence. The innova- p232; www.gelateriacorp.com; 272 Hanover
tive menu offers a selection of small plates St; gelato $3-5; h10am-midnight; c ; YHay-
providing a fresh take on traditional fare; market) to sample one of their dozens of
mains such as pork roast and seared tuna flavors.
sit alongside classic pasta dishes.
63
5 Salumeria Italiana
Shelves stocked with extra-virgin
LOU JONES/GETTY IMAGES ©
olive oil and aged balsamic vinegar;

cases crammed with cured meats,
hard cheeses and olives of all shapes
and sizes; boxes of pasta; jars of
sauce – the Salumeria Italiana
(Map p232; www.salumeriaitaliana.com;
151 Richmond St; h8am-7pm Mon-Sat,
10am-4pm Sun; YHaymarket) is the
archetype of North End specialty
shops.
W e s t E n d & N o rth E n d
6 St Leonard’s Church
Founded in 1873, St Leonard’s (Map
p232; www.saintleonardchurchboston.
org; 320 Hanover St; h9:30am-2:30pm;
Y Haymarket) was the first church
in New England built by Italian im-
migrants. If the church is open,
peek inside to see the city’s oldest
Polcari’s Coffee
shrine to St Anthony, most beloved
of Italian saints. The attached Peace
0 200 m
Garden is always open for a moment
er e
#0 0.1 miles of serenity.
Riv
es
arl US Coast
Ch
Guard 7 All Saints Way
Charlestown #
8 Piers ’Mock all and sundry things, but
Bridge Com
me leave the saints alone’ – so goes an
1 1 1 rcia
1 1 1
l St old Italian saying posted on the wall
1 Copp's
1 1Hill of this tiny alleyway (Map p232; 4 Bat-
1
Burying
1 1
tery St; YHaymarket) and surrounded
Snowhill St
1 1 1
Ground
1 1 1 Ch by thousands of images of saints.
t H1u 1
S 1
ll S
ay
St
The shrine is the pet project of local

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N Washington St
#
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au
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64
PIZZA IN EASTIE
People are passionate about pizza in the North End, home to Boston’s oldest and
most beloved pizzerias. But if you are serious about sampling the city’s best slices,
wander far away from the Freedom Trail to edgy East Boston, fondly known as Eastie.
East Boston is a blue-collar, rough-and-tumble part of town. It’s the site of Logan
Airport, and also the setting for much of the Academy Award–winning movie Mystic
River. Most importantly, Eastie is the home of the pizza place that constantly tops the
lists of Boston’s best pizza pies:
Santarpio’s (www.santarpiospizza.com; 111 Chelsea St, East Boston; pizza $10-15;
h11:30am-11pm; v c ; YAirport) Boston Bruins posters and neon beer signs consti-
W e s t E n d & N o rth E n d D rinking & N ightlife
tute the decor here. A gruff waitress might offer a menu, but you come here for the
thin-crust pizza – unique for its extra crispy, crunchy texture. This well-done crust is
topped with slightly sweet sauce, plenty of pepperoni and not too much cheese.
TARANTA FUSION $$$ by drinking rich delicious coffee and eat-

Map p232 (%617-720-0052; www.tarantarist. ing sweet dark chocolate, you are doing a
com; 210 Hanover St; mains $25-35; h5:30- good deed. All the coffees and cocoas are
10pm; YHaymarket) S Europe meets South organically grown, fairly traded and locally
America at this Italian restaurant with a roasted. The café has also received the city’s
Peruvian twist. So, for example, gnocchi is green business award, thanks to its com-
made from cassava root and served with a prehensive recycling program.
spicy lamb ragout, salmon fillet is encrust-
ed with macadamia nuts, and beef tender- BOSTON BEER WORKS BREWERY
loin with crushed espresso beans. There’s Map p230 (www.beerworks.net; 112 Canal St;
an incredible selection of Italian, Chilean h11am-midnight; c ; YNorth Station) Boston
and Argentinean wines. Beer Works is a solid option for beer lov-
ers and sports lovers (conveniently located
near the city’s major sporting venues). The
DRINKING &
6 NIGHTLIFE
excellent selection of microbrews offers
something for everyone, including plenty of
seasonal specialties. Fruity brews like blue-
berry ale get rave reviews, with tasty sweet-
6 West End potato fries as the perfect accompaniment.
When the city fathers bulldozed and re- ALIBI COCKTAIL BAR
built this area in the 1950s and 1960s, one Map p230 (www.alibiboston.com; Liberty Hotel,
casualty that never recovered was nightlife. 215 Charles St; h5pm-2am; YCharles/MGH)
However, several of the city’s most popular Housed in the former Charles St Jail, this
rowdy sports bars are clustered near TD hot-to-trot drinking venue is set in the old
Garden, home of the Bruins and Celtics. ‘drunk tank’ (holding cell for the intoxi-
cated). The prison theme is played up, with
WARD 8 COCKTAIL BAR mugshots hanging on the brick walls and
Map p230 (www.ward8.com; 90 N Washington iron bars on the doors and windows. Up-
St; h4:30pm-1am Mon-Fri, 10am-1am Sat & stairs, the Lobby Bar is set under the soar-
Sun; YNorth Station) The bartenders at this ing ceiling in the hotel atrium. Both places
throwback know their stuff, mixing up a are absurdly popular. Dress sharp.
slew of specialty cocktails (including the
namesake Ward 8) and serving them in FOUR’S SPORTS BAR
clever thematic containers. Map p230 (www.thefours.com; 166 Canal St;
h11am-1am; W; YNorth Station) Boasting
EQUAL EXCHANGE CAFE CAFÉ all sports, all the time, the Four’s makes
Map p230 (www.equalexchangecafe.com; 226 a great place to appreciate Boston’s near-
Causeway St; h7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-5pm Sat, fanatical obsession with sporting events.
9am-4pm Sun; W; YNorth Station) S Just The large two-level bar was established in
65
1976 and retains a dash of character from and understated finesse. It’s a great place to
that period. In addition to the game of your watch Premier League and Series A football
choice, admire a jersey collection and loads matches. Cannoli and cappuccini get raves.
of pictures depicting legendary events in
Boston’s sporting past.
WEST END JOHNNIES SPORTS BAR

3 ENTERTAINMENT
Map p230 (www.westendjohnnies.com; 138 TD GARDEN BASKETBALL, ICE HOCKEY
Portland St; h4pm-2am Tue-Sat, 11am-4pm Map p230 (%information 617-523-3030, tickets
Sun; YNorth Station) West End Johnnies is 617-931-2000; www.tdgarden.com; 150 Causeway
a grown-up sports bar, with black leather St; YNorth Station) The TD Garden is home
furniture and retro sports paraphernalia to the Bruins, who play hockey here from
adorning the walls. On weekend nights, it’s September to June, and the Celtics, who
W e s t E n d & N o rth E n d E ntertainment

also a dance club. And most importantly, on play basketball from October to April.
Sundays it’s a brunch destination. No mat- MUGAR OMNI THEATER CINEMA
ter where you spent Saturday night, JC’s
Map p230 (www.mos.org; Science Museum,
corned-beef hash and eggs and live reggae
Charles River Dam; adult/child $10/9; c; YSci-
music make for an excellent way to recover. ence Park) For total IMAX immersion, check
out the space-themed and natural science–
oriented flicks at the Museum of Science’s
6 North End theater.
IMPROV ASYLUM COMEDY

Despite the vibrancy of Hanover St, the
colorful North End is devoid of proper bars. Map p232 (www.improvasylum.com; 216 Hano-
If you weave your way through all the late- ver St; tickets $15-25; hshows 8pm Sun-Thu,
night bakeries and restaurants, you’ll find 7:30pm, 10pm & midnight Fri & Sat; YHaymarket)
a handful of cafés where you can drink in A basement theater is somehow the per-
fect setting for the dark humor spewing
Italian American style.
from the mouths of this offbeat crew. No
CAFFÉ VITTORIA CAFÉ topic is too touchy, no politics too correct.
Map p232 (www.vittoriacaffe.com; 290-296 Hano- While the shows vary from night to night,
ver St; h7am-midnight; W; YHaymarket) A de- the standard Mainstage Show mixes up the
lightful destination for dessert or aperitifs. improv with comedy sketches.
The frilly parlor displays antique espresso
machines and black-and-white photos, with
a pressed-tin ceiling reminiscent of the Vic-
torian era. Grab a marble-topped table,
7 SHOPPING
Every visitor to Boston goes to the North
order a cappuccino and enjoy the romantic End to savor the flavors of Italian cooking.
setting. Cash only, just like the olden days. These old streets are packed with
specialty markets selling imported food
CAFFÉ DELLO SPORT SPORTS BAR, CAFÉ
products, wine, spices, fresh produce,
Map p232 (www.caffedellosport.us; 308 Hanover meats and seafood. The flow of foot traffic
St; h6am-midnight; W; YHaymarket) An in- has started to attract funky boutiques
formal crowd of thick-accented guys from and galleries, too. There’s not much in the
the ’hood sit at glass-topped tables and way of shopping in the West End.
drink coffee and Campari. This is a great
place to watch a football game (and yes, we BRICCO SALUMERIA FOOD & DRINK
mean soccer). Cash only. Map p232 (www.briccosalumeria.com; 241 Hano-
ver St; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-8pm Sat & Sun;
CAFFÉ PARADISO BAR, CAFÉ YHaymarket) Duck down Board Alley and
Map p232 (www.caffeparadiso.com; 255 Hanover into this sense-piquing specialty shop. Sau-
St; h7am-11pm; W; YHaymarket) Some regu- sages and cured meats hang from the ceil-
lars are so dedicated that they organize ing, while the cases are stocked with fresh
their business calendars so they don’t miss cheeses, handmade pastas, rich olive oils
their spot at the counter. The bartender and spicy sauces. Follow your nose to the
masterfully attends to the espresso ma- lower-level bakery for fresh ciabatta and
chine and pours neat cognacs with efficient other Italian breads.
66
NORTH BENNET STREET SHAKE THE TREE ACCESSORIES, GIFTS
SCHOOL HANDICRAFTS Map p232 (www.shakethetreeboston.com; 67
Map p232 (www.nbss.org; 150 North St; h9am- Salem St; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun;
3pm Mon-Fri; YHaymarket) The North Bennet YHaymarket) You never know what you will
Street School has been training craftspeo- find at this sweet boutique, but it’s bound to
ple for over 100 years. Established in 1885, be good. The little shop carries a wonderful,
the school offers programs in traditional eclectic assortment of jewelry by local ar-
skills like bookbinding, woodworking and tisans, alongside stationery, designer hand-
locksmithing. The school’s on-site gallery bags and clothing, and unique housewares.
sells incredible hand-crafted pieces made
by students and alumni. Look for unique WINE BOTTEGA FOOD & DRINK
jewelry, handmade journals and exquisite Map p232 (www.thewinebottega.com; 341 Hano-
wooden furniture and musical instruments. ver St; h11am-9pm Tue-Sat, noon-8pm Sun &
W e s t E n d & N o rth E n d S ports & A cti v ities
Mon; YHaymarket) With a large choice of

WILLIAM CARLTON wines packed into a small space, this is a
WORKSHOP ACCESSORIES delightful place to browse. The ownership
Map p232 (148a Salem St; hvary; YHaymarket) is enthusiastic about educating their cus-
Like something out of another era, this tomers, so they will love to help you find
old-timey hat shop is littered with artifacts something you love, too.
and antiques (including a sewing machine
that is actually used to make the hats). The V CIRACE & SON, INC FOOD & DRINK
headgear – all custom-made – includes styl- Map p232 (www.vcirace.com; 127 North St;
ish but simple flat caps, baseball caps and h9am-7pm Mon-Thu, to 8pm Fri & Sat; YHaymar-
work caps, all with retro flare. ket) It’s the third generation of the Cirace
family that runs this North End institu-
IN-JEAN-IUS CLOTHING tion. Established in 1906, V Cirace & Son
Map p232 (www.injeanius.com; 441 Hanover St; carries an impressive selection of Italian
h11am-7pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; YHaymar- wines, grappa and spirits. Other specialties
ket) You know what you’re getting when you include artisanal pasta and olive oil, Italian
waltz into this denim haven. Offerings from sweets and honey, and imported ceramics.
over 30 designers include tried-and-true fa-
LIT BOUTIQUE CLOTHING
vorites and little-known gems, and staff are
Map p232 (www.litboutique.com; 236 Hanover St;
on hand to help you find the perfect pair.
h11am-8pm; YHaymarket) One more sharp,
Warning: the surgeon general has deter-
mined that it is not healthy to try on jeans fashion-forward boutique on Hanover St,
after a gigantic plate of pasta. this one crowded with sexy city-wear. The
clothing here is eclectic, featuring lace and
SEDURRE CLOTHING leather, flowy skirts and shorty shorts.
Map p232 (www.sedurreboston.com; 28½ Prince
St; h11am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun; YHay- SPORTS &
market) If you speak Italian, you’ll know
that Sedurre’s thing is sexy and stylish. (It
2 ACTIVITIES
means ‘seduce.’) The shop started with fine NORTH END MARKET TOUR WALKING TOUR
lingerie – beautiful lacy nightgowns and (%617-523-6032; www.bostonfoodtours.com;
underthings for special occasions. Sisters tours $54; htours 10am & 2pm Wed & Sat, 10am &
Robyn and Daria were so good at that, they 3pm Fri) A three-hour tour around the North
created an additional space next door for End that includes shopping in a salumeria,
dresses and evening wear. sampling pastries at the local pasticceria,
smelling the herbs and spices that flavor
TWILIGHT CLOTHING
Italian cooking, and sampling spirits at an
Map p232 (www.twilightboutique.com; 12 Fleet St;
enoteca (wine bar).
h11am-7pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; YHaymar-
ket) Alison Barnard proved that she could OLD BOSTON TOURS WALKING TOUR
do jeans when she opened In-Jean-ius on Map p232 (%800-979-3370; www.oldboston-
Hanover St. She then proceeded to get her tours.com; 11 North Sq; tours $18) Spend two
girls dressed up, opening a slick dress shop hours on the Original Secret Tour and
around the corner. The purple velvet drapes learn all about the sordid past of the North
and black chandeliers create an elegant at- End, one of Boston’s oldest and most enig-
mosphere to browse the racks of fancy wear. matic neighborhoods.
67
Beacon Hill &

Boston Common
1 Breathing in the sweet 2 Exploring the Massa- 4 Browsing for trash and
smell of flowering trees chusetts State House (p72) treasure in the antique
and blooming beds as you in search of the Sacred Cod shops that line Charles
admire the seasonal display and the Holy Mackerel. Street (p77).
in the Public Garden (p69).
A ride in a swan boat on 3 Packing a picnic for an 5 Following the Black
the lagoon completes an evening of Shakespeare on Heritage Trail (p75) to learn
idyllic outing. the Common (p77). about the early African
American settlement on
Beacon Hill.
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CHINATOWN
68
Lonely Planet’s
Top Tip Explore Beacon Hill &
Get a great view of Boston’s Boston Common
skyline from the Longfellow
The Boston Common is the starting point for the Free-
Bridge, also known as the
dom Trail and, as such, the starting point for many visi-
‘salt and pepper bridge,’
tors’ exploration of Boston. Whether or not it is the first
which crosses the river at
place you visit in Boston, it is a central meeting point,
the top of Charles St.
a jumping-off point for several neighborhoods and an
always-enjoyable place for a picnic lunch. You’ll likely
find yourself passing through more than once.
Best Places
5 to Eat Besides the Common, several other Freedom Trail
sights lie within the borders of Beacon Hill, including
¨¨ Paramount (p74) the impressive gold-domed Massachusetts State House.
¨¨ Grotto (p74) This is the focal point of politics in the Commonwealth –
¨¨ 75 Chestnut (p74) the building famously dubbed ‘the hub of the solar sys-
tem’ – and the neighborhood buzzes with the business of
¨¨ No 9 Park (p76)
local politicos and State House staffers.
Be ac o n H i ll & Bos to n C o m m o n
For reviews, see p74 A But the appeal of this neighborhood lies behind the
landmarks, along the narrow cobblestone streets that
crisscross the hill. Lined with brick town houses and lit
Best Places by gas lanterns, these streets are a delightful setting to
6 to Drink spend an afternoon – whether browsing boutiques and
¨¨ Tip Tap Room (p76)
haggling for antiques, or just sipping a cappuccino and
admiring the quintessentially Bostonian landscape.
¨¨ 21st Amendment (p76)
¨¨ Bin 26 Enoteca (p76)
For reviews, see p76 A Local Life

¨ Book Nook Local writers and bibliophiles enjoy the
Best Boutiques artistic atmosphere and historic setting at the Boston
1 & Antiques Athenaeum (p73).
¨ Local Politics State House staffers hang out across
¨¨ Crush Boutique (p77)
the street at the 21st Amendment (p76) when their
¨¨ Ruby Door (p77) working day is through.
¨¨ Eugene Galleries (p77) ¨ Secret Spot Escape the crowds on Charles St and
¨¨ Marika’s Antique Shop retreat to 75 Chestnut (p74) to hobnob with the locals.
(p78)
¨¨ Moxie (p78)
For reviews, see p77 A Getting There & Away

¨ Metro At the junction of the red and green lines,
Park St T station services the Boston Common and
sights in the southeastern part of Beacon Hill. Also on
the red line, Charles/MGH T station is convenient to
Beacon Hill’s Charles and Cambridge Sts, as well as
the Charles River Esplanade. The blue-line Bowdoin T
station is a less-used stop convenient to the eastern end
of Cambridge St.
PUBLIC GARDEN
TIM MAINIERO/GETTY IMAGES ©
The Public Garden is a 24-acre botanical oasis of DON’T MISS

Victorian flowerbeds, verdant grass and weeping
willow trees shading a tranquil lagoon. Until it was ¨¨ Make Way for
filled in the early 19th century, it was (like Back Bay) Ducklings statue
a tidal salt marsh. Now, at any time of the year, it is an ¨¨ Swan Boats
island of loveliness, awash with seasonal blooms, gold- ¨¨ Rose Gardens
toned leaves or untrammeled snow.
Monuments PRACTICALITIES
At the main entrance, visitors are greeted by a statue of
¨¨ Map p234
George Washington (Map p234; YArlington), looking stately
¨¨ www.friendsofthe
atop his horse. Other pieces of public art are more whimsi-
cal; the most endearing is Make Way for Ducklings (Map publicgarden.org
p234; YArlington), always a favorite with tiny tots who can ¨¨ Arlington St
climb and sit on the bronze ducks. The sculpture depicts ¨¨ h 6am-midnight
Mrs Mallard and her eight ducklings, the main characters ¨¨ c
in the beloved book by Robert McCloskey. As the story ¨¨ YArlington
goes, Mrs Mallard and her ducklings are stuck at a busy
street until a friendly Boston policeman helps them across.
On the northwest side of the lagoon, the Ether Monument (Map p234; YArlington) com-
memorates the first use of anesthesia for medical purposes, which took place in Boston.
Swan Boats
The story of the swan boats (Map p234; www.swanboats.com; Public Garden; adult/child $3/1.50;
h10am-5pm Jun-Aug, to 4pm mid-Apr‒May, noon-4pm Sep; YArlington) goes back to 1877, when
Robert Paget developed a catamaran with a pedal-powered paddlewheel. Inspired by the
opera Lohengrin, in which a heroic knight rides across a river in a swan-drawn boat, Paget
designed a graceful swan to hide the boat captain. While today’s swan boats are larger
than the 1877 original, they still utilize the same technology and they are still managed
by Paget’s descendants.
BOSTON COMMON
DON’T MISS
F11PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
The 50-acre Boston Common is the country’s oldest
public park. If you have any doubt, refer to the plaque
emblazoned with the words of the treaty between ¨¨ Blaxton Plaque
Governor Winthrop and William Blaxton, who sold the ¨¨ Robert Gould Shaw
land for £30 in 1634. The Common has served many Memorial
purposes over the years, including as a campground ¨¨ Boston Massacre
for British troops during the Revolutionary War and as Monument
green grass for cattle grazing until the 1830s. Although
there is still a grazing ordinance on the books, the
Common today serves picnickers, sunbathers and PRACTICALITIES
people-watchers. ¨¨ Map p234
Bostonians hustle to and from the nearby T stations;
¨¨ btwn Tremont,
others stroll leisurely, enjoying the fresh air or engaging
Charles, Beacon &
in any number of Common activities, from free concerts to
Park Sts
political rallies to seasonal festivities. In winter, the Frog
Pond (p78) attracts ice-skaters, while summer draws theat- ¨¨ h 6am-midnight
er-lovers for Shakespeare on the Common (p77). This is the ¨¨ p c
first link in the Emerald Necklace (p158) and the starting ¨¨ Y Park St
point for the Freedom Trail.
Robert Gould Shaw Memorial

The magnificent bas-relief memorial (Map p234; cnr Beacon & Park Sts; YPark St), sculpted
by Augustus Saint-Gaudens, honors the 54th Massachusetts Regiment of the Union Army,
the nation’s first all-black Civil War regiment (depicted in the 1989 film Glory). These
soldiers steadfastly refused their monthly stipend for nearly two years, until Congress
increased it to match the amount that white regiments received. Shaw and half his men
were killed in a battle at Fort Wagner, South Carolina. The National Park Service (NPS)
tour of the Black Heritage Trail (Map p234; www.nps.gov/boaf; htours 2pm Mon-Sat Apr-Oct,
plus 10am & noon Jun-Aug ; YPark St) F departs from here.
71
Brewer Fountain AFFORDABLE

This bronze beauty dates to 1868, when it was gifted PARKING
to the city of Boston by the wealthy merchant Gard-
ner Brewer. After a recent restoration, the fountain After 4pm on weekdays
(Map p234; YPark St) is looking lovely with its four and all day on week-
aquatic deities from antiquity. The design won a ends, you can park in
Be ac o n H i ll & Bos to n C o m m o n B os t o n C ommo n

gold medal at the 1855 World’s Fair. the lot under the Com-
mon for up to three
Boston Massacre Monument hours for $14. Enter
This 25ft monument (Map p234; Boston Common; from Charles St.
YPark St) pays tribute to the five victims of the Bos-
ton Massacre. It replicates Paul Revere’s famous
engraving of this tragic event. Revere’s effective
The Boston Common
propaganda depicts soldiers shooting down defense-
is often called ‘the
less colonists in cold blood, when in reality they were
Common’ in local
reacting to the aggressive crowd in self-defense.
parlance, but never
Soldiers & Sailors Monument ‘the Commons.’ Use
Dedicated in 1877, this massive monument (Map the singular or risk
p234; Boston Common; YPark St) atop Flagstaff Hill ridicule by locals!
pays tribute to the soldiers and sailors who died in
the Civil War. The four bronze statues represent:
Peace, the female figure looking to the South; the THE BARD
Sailor, the seaman looking toward the ocean; His-
tory, the Greek figure looking to heaven; and the Every summer the
Soldier, an infantryman standing at ease. Commonwealth Shake-
speare Company hosts
Great Elm Site the free Shakespeare
A plaque marks the site of the Old Elm (Map p234; on the Common (p77)
Boston Common; YPark St) that stood here for more for picnic-packing
than 200 years. History has it that Ann Hibbens was theater-lovers.
hanged on a branch of the elm tree for witchcraft in
1656, and Mary Dyer for religious heresy in 1660. On
a happier note, the Sons of Liberty hung lanterns
on its branches as a symbol of unity. Boston’s ‘oldest The Boston Common
inhabitant’ was damaged in 1869 in a brutal storm is one of many places
and destroyed for good by another storm in 1876. in the city that offers
Wicked Free Wi-fi for
Central Burying Ground all comers.
Dating to 1756, the Central Burying Ground (Map
p234; Boylston St; h9am-5pm; YBoylston) is the least
celebrated of the old cemeteries, as it was the burial WALKING TOURS
ground of the down-and-out (according to an ac-
count in Edwin Bacon’s Boston Illustrated, it was Both the Freedom Trail
used for ‘Roman Catholics and strangers dying in (p26) and the Black
the town’). Some reports indicate that it contains an Heritage Trail (p75)
unmarked mass grave for British soldiers who died begin at the Boston
in the Battle of Bunker Hill. The most recognized Common.
name here is the portrait artist Gilbert Stuart.
Parkman Bandstand
The site of concerts, rallies and other rabble-rous- Dating to 1897, Park
ing, Parkman Bandstand (Map p234; Boston Common; St station is the old-
YPark St) has been a landmark on the Boston Com- est subway station in
mon since its construction in 1912. America.
MASSACHUSETTS STATE HOUSE
High atop Beacon Hill, Massachusetts’ leaders and DON’T MISS
legislators attempt to turn their ideas into concrete
policies and practices within the State House. John ¨¨ Women’s Memorial,
Hancock provided the land, Charles Bulfinch designed just outside Doric Hall
the commanding state capitol, but it was Oliver ¨¨ Robert Reid’s murals
Wendell Holmes who called it ‘the hub of the solar in the Nurses Hall
system’ (thus earning Boston the nickname ‘the Hub’). ¨¨ The clock in the
Free 40-minute tours cover the history, artwork, archi- Great Hall
tecture and political personalities of the State House. ¨¨ The Sacred Cod and
the Holy Mackerel
Second Floor Halls
Tours start in the Doric Hall, the columned reception area PRACTICALITIES
directly below the dome. Once the main entryway to the
State House, these front doors are now used only by a visit- ¨¨ Map p234
ing US president or by a departing governor. ¨¨ www.sec.state.
The nearby Nurses Hall is named for the moving statue ma.us
of a Civil War nurse tending to a fallen soldier. The circular ¨¨ cnr Beacon &
Memorial Hall, known as the Hall of Flags, honors Mas- Bowdoin Sts
sachusetts soldiers by displaying some of the tattered flags
¨¨ h9am-5pm, tours
that have been carried to battle over the years. Finally, the
10am-3:30pm Mon-Fri
impressive marble Great Hall is hung with 351 flags, repre-
¨¨ Y Park St
senting all the cities and towns in Massachusetts.
Legislative & Executive Chambers

Upstairs, visitors can see both legislative chambers: the House of Representatives, also
home of the famous Sacred Cod; and the Senate Chamber, residence of the Holy Mackerel.
The Governor’s office is here, though it’s not open to the public.
State House Lawn

On the front lawn (closed to the public), statues honor important Massachusetts figures,
among them orator Daniel Webster, religious martyrs Anne Hutchinson and Mary Dyer,
and President John F Kennedy.
73
1 SIGHTS BOSTON ATHENAEUM LIBRARY

Map p234 (%617-227-0270; www.bostonathenae-
PUBLIC GARDEN GARDENS
um.org; 10½ Beacon St; donation $5; h9am-8pm
Mon-Thu, to 5.30pm Fri, to 4pm Sat, noon-4pm
See p69.
Sun; YPark St) Founded in 1807, the Boston
BOSTON COMMON PARK Athenaeum is an old and distinguished
See p70. private library, having hosted the likes of
Ralph Waldo Emerson and Nathaniel Haw-
MASSACHUSETTS STATE thorne. Its collection has half a million vol-
HOUSE NOTABLE BUILDING umes, including an impressive selection of
See p72. art, which is showcased in the on-site gal-
lery. The library itself is open to members
PARK STREET CHURCH CHURCH only, but tourists can visit the gallery. Tours
Map p234 (www.parkstreet.org; 1 Park St; h9am- of the whole library are conducted at 3pm
4pm Tue-Sat mid-Jun–Aug; YPark St) Shortly on Tuesday and Thursday; reserve your
after the construction of Park St Church, spot in advance.
gunpowder for the War of 1812 was stored
in the basement, earning this location the JOHN ADAMS
Be ac o n H i ll & Bos to n C o m m o n S igh t s

moniker ‘Brimstone Corner.’ But that was COURTHOUSE NOTABLE BUILDING
hardly the most inflammatory event that Map p234 (www.mass.gov/sjc; 1 Pemberton Sq;
took place here. Noted for its graceful, 217ft h8:30am-5pm Mon-Fri; YGovernment Center)
steeple, this Boston landmark has been F Peek inside the impressive court-
hosting historic lectures and musical per- house on Pemberton Sq, which is home of
formances since its founding. the Massachusetts Supreme Judicial Court
In 1829 William Lloyd Garrison railed (the oldest appellate court in the country),
against slavery from the church’s pulpit. as well as the Appeals Court and the Social
And on Independence Day in 1831, Samuel Law Library. You can’t enter the court-
Francis Smith’s hymn ‘America’ (‘My Coun- rooms, but you can admire the barrel-vault-
try ’Tis of Thee’) was first sung. ed ceiling in the Great Hall and peruse the
small exhibits – one on John Adams and the
GRANARY BURYING GROUND CEMETERY other on the Sacco and Vanzetti trial.
Map p234 (Tremont St; h9am-5pm; YPark St)
Dating to 1660, this atmospheric atoll is MUSEUM OF AFRICAN
crammed with historic headstones, many AMERICAN HISTORY MUSEUM
with evocative (and creepy) carvings. This Map p234 (www.afroammuseum.org; 46 Joy
is the final resting place of all your favorite St; adult/child $5/free; h10am-4pm Mon-
revolutionary heroes including Paul Revere, Sat; YPark St or Bowdoin) The Museum of
Samuel Adams, John Hancock and James African American History occupies two
Otis. Benjamin Franklin is buried in Phila- adjacent historic buildings: the African
delphia, but the Franklin family plot con- Meeting House, the country’s oldest black
tains his parents. church and meeting house; and Abiel Smith
The five victims of the Boston Massacre School, the country’s first school for blacks.
share a common grave, though the only The museum offers rotating exhibits about
name you are likely to recognize is that of the historic events that took place here, and
Crispus Attucks, the freed slave who is con- is also a source of information about – and
sidered the first person to lose his life in the the final destination of – the Black Herit-
struggle for American independence. Other age Trail.
noteworthy permanent residents include Pe- Within these walls William Lloyd Gar-
ter Faneuil, of Faneuil Hall fame, and Judge rison began the New England Anti-Slavery
Sewall, the only magistrate to denounce the Society, which later expanded to become the
hanging of the so-called Salem witches. The American Anti-Slavery Society. Here, Maria
location of Park St Church was once the site Stewart became the first American woman –
of the town granary; as the burying ground a black woman, no less – to speak before a
predates the church, it is named after the mixed-gender audience. Frederick Douglass
grain storage facility instead. While it is delivered stirring calls to action within
sometimes called the Old Granary Burying this hall, and Robert Gould Shaw recruited
Ground, it’s not the oldest in Boston; King’s black soldiers for the Civil War effort.
Chapel and Copp’s Hill date back further.
74
HIDDEN BEACON HILL

Take a detour away from Charles St to discover a few Beacon Hill gems.
Louisburg Square (Map p234; Y Charles/MGH) There is no more prestigious address
than this lane, a cluster of stately brick row houses facing a private park.
After she gained literary success, Louisa May Alcott’s home was at No 10; at the north-
ern corner of the square is the home of Senator John Kerry and his wife Teresa Heinz.
Acorn Street (Map p234; Y Charles/MGH) Boston’s narrowest street. This cobble-
stone alleyway was once home to artisans and to the service people who worked for
the adjacent mansion dwellers. The brick walls on the north side of the street enclose
examples of Beacon Hill’s hidden gardens.
NICHOLS HOUSE MUSEUM MUSEUM the brunch crowd. Don’t sit down until you
Map p234 (www.nicholshousemuseum.org; 55 get your food! At dinner, add table service
and candlelight, and the place goes upscale
Be ac o n H i ll & Bos to n C o m m o n E at i n g
Mt Vernon St; adult/child $10/free; h11am-4pm

Tue-Sat Apr-Oct, Thu-Sat Nov-Mar; YPark St) without losing its down-home charm.
This 1804 town house offers the rare op-
portunity to peek inside one of these classic GROTTO ITALIAN $$
Beacon Hill beauties. Attributed to Charles Map p234 (%617-227-3434; www.grottorestau-
Bulfinch, it is unique in its merger of Fed- rant.com; 37 Bowdoin St; mains $21, 3-course
eral and Greek Revival architectural styles. prix-fixe dinner $38; h11:30am-3pm Mon-Fri &
Equally impressive is the story told inside 5-10pm daily; YBowdoin) In a word: romantic.
the museum – that of the day-to-day life of Tucked into a basement on the back side of
author, pacifist and suffragette Miss Rose Beacon Hill, this cozy, cavelike place lives
Standish Nichols, who lived here from 1885 up to its name. The funky decor – exposed
to 1960. brick walls decked with rotating art exhib-
its – reflects the innovative menu. Reserva-
tions recommended, as the place is tiny.
5 EATING 75 CHESTNUT AMERICAN $$
PIPERI MEDITERRANEAN Map p234 (www.75chestnut.com; 75 Chestnut St;

GRILL MIDDLE EASTERN $ mains $18-27; h10:30am-2:30pm Sat, 11:30am-
(www.piperi.com; 1 Beacon St; mains $6-8; h7am- 3:30pm Sun, 5-11pm daily; c; YCharles/MGH)
6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3pm Sat; v c ; YGovern- You might not think to take a peek around
ment Center) The concept is simple. Decide the corner, away from the well-trod side-
whether you want a flatbread sandwich, walks of Charles St. But locals know that
salad or mezze plate. Choose chicken, steak Chestnut St is the place to go for tried-
or veggies as a main ingredient. Then add and-true steaks and seafood and a genuine
fresh toppings such as hummus, tabouleh, warm welcome. It’s a perfect place to stop
slaw, cheese, etc. Hungry Boston workers for a drink, complemented by cheese and
line up out the door for this quick, healthy, crackers served at the bar.
fresh and affordable lunch.
SCOLLAY SQUARE AMERICAN $$
Map p234 (www.scollaysquare.com; 21 Beacon
oPARAMOUNT CAFETERIA $$ St; sandwiches & small plates $11-13, dinner
Map p234 (www.paramountboston.com; 44 mains $17-23; h11:30am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-
Charles St; mains breakfast & lunch $6-12, dinner 10pm Sat & Sun; YPark St) Down the road
$15-23; h7am-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri, 8am- from the former Scollay Sq, this retro res-
11pm Sat, to 10pm Sun; v c ; YCharles/MGH) taurant harks back to the glory days of its
This old-fashioned cafeteria is a neighbor- namesake. Old photos and memorabilia
hood favorite. A-plus diner fare includes adorn the walls, while suits sip martinis to
pancakes, homefries, burgers and sand- big-band music. The classic American fare
wiches, and big, hearty salads. Banana and is reliably good, with lobster mac ’n’ cheese
caramel French toast is an obvious go-to for the perennial favorite.
75
Staniford St
WEST
END
Charles/MGH Bowdoin
¨
# Cambridge St ¨
#
Temple St
Bowdoin St
Anderson St
Ridgeway La
W Ceda r St
Hancock St
Joy St
Phillips St
S Russell St
#
8
Garden St
#
Grove St
#
6 7
Irving St
Smith Ct
#
9
Revere St
Derne St
Charles St
Myrtle St
BEACON HILL Ashburton
#
3
#
2 Park
#
4 Pinckney St
Louisburg
Ced
Square
W C a Way
Mt Vernon St
ar L
Be ac o n H i ll & Bos to n C o m m o n
eda
Joy St
#
5
Willo
Waln
r St
1 1
w
1 1 1
ut St
St
St #
1 Granary
1 1
Lime St
tnut
1 1 1
Riv
Burying
Ches 1 1
1 Ground
er
t
ch S
1 1
Pa
Bran n St
St
1 1
o
Beac
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1 1 1
S
Boston
t
Common
n St Park St
Byro ¨
#
22 Neighborhood Walk
Black Heritage Trail
John J Smith lived in the house at
START BOSTON COMMON
END MUSEUM OF AFRICAN AMERICAN
486 Pinckney St after the Civil War. He
had been a barber, an impassioned abo-
HISTORY
litionist and a harborer of fugitive slaves.
LENGTH 1.2 MILES; 90 MINUTES
After the war, he became a representative
to the Massachusetts State Legislature.
Beacon Hill was never the exclusive domain Further west, then south down Charles
of blue-blooded Brahmins. In the 19th cen- St, the 5Charles St Meeting House
tury, freed African Americans settled on the formerly housed the African Methodist
back side of the hill and the neighborhood Episcopal Church.
Walk north on Charles St, then cut up to
became a hive of activity focused on im-
Phillips St. The house at 6No 66 – which
proving housing, establishing schools and
was a station on the Underground Railroad
creating opportunities for black residents.
– belonged to Lewis Hayden, an escaped
NPS rangers lead free tours of the Black slave and tireless abolitionist. Further east
Heritage Trail (www.nps.gov/boaf). lies the 7John Coburn House. An active
If you are heading out solo, start at the member of the New England Freedom As-
1Robert Gould Shaw Memorial (p70) sociation and the Boston Vigilance Commit-
on the Boston Common. Walk north to the tee, Coburn purportedly harbored fugitives
2George Middleton House, the oldest and established a gaming house here.
existing house that was built by an African Heading south on Joy St, the cluster of
American. Middleton was an honorary 8residential buildings on Smith Ct is
colonel who led an all-black regiment in the representative of the homes where black
American Revolution. Further west, the Bostonians lived in the 19th century. The
3Phillips School became one of tour ends at the 9 Museum of African
Boston’s first interracial schools in 1855. American History (p73).
76
FIGS PIZZA $$
Map p234 (www.toddenglishfigs.com; 42 Charles LUNCH ON THE COMMON
St; mains $16-21; h11:30am-11pm; v c ;
YCharles/MGH) The brainchild of celebrity Various food trucks park on the Bos-
chef Todd English, Figs rakes them in with ton Common, near the entrance to
its innovative whisper-thin pizzas. For a the Park St T station. Our favorites are
real treat, order the signature fig and pro- Clover Food Lab (www.cloverfoodlab.
sciutto pizza with gorgonzola. Equally del- com) and the Chicken & Rice Guys
ish are the sandwiches, salads and pastas. (www.chickenriceguys.com).
ZEN SUSHI BAR & GRILL JAPANESE $$

Map p234 (www.zensushibar.com; 21a Beacon St; ranging from local craft brews to inter-
sushi $5-12, lunch specials $10-15, dinner mains national ales of some renown. The food is
$17-22; h11:30am-10pm Mon-Thu, noon-11pm Fri good and the beer is even better. There’s no
& Sat, 2:30-10pm Sun; YPark St) The minimal- other place on Beacon Hill with this trendy
ist decor and extensive menu are typical but friendly vibe.
sushi-bar stuff, but the place is immaculate
and the sushi and rolls are spot on. 21ST AMENDMENT PUB
Be ac o n H i ll & Bos to n C o m m o n D ri n ki n g & Nigh t life
Map p234 (www.21stboston.com; 150 Bowdoin

NO 9 PARK EUROPEAN $$$ St; h11:30am-2am; YPark St) Named for one
Map p234 (%617-742-9991; www.no9park.com; 9 of the US Constitution’s most important
Park St; mains $39, 3-course prix-fixe dinner $69; amendments – the one repealing Prohibi-
h5:30-9pm Sun & Mon, to 10pm Tue-Sat; YPark tion – this quintessential tavern has been
St) Set in a 19th-century mansion opposite an ever-popular haunt for overeducated
the State House, this swanky place tops and underpaid statehouse workers. It feels
many fine-dining lists. Chef-owner Barbara especially cozy in the winter, when you’ll
Lynch has been lauded by food and wine feel pretty good about yourself as you drink
magazines for her delectable French and a stout near the copper-hooded fireplace.
Italian culinary masterpieces and her first-
rate wine list. She has now cast her celebrity- BIN 26 ENOTECA WINE BAR
chef spell all around town, but this is the Map p234 (%617-723-5939; www.bin26.com; 26
place that made her famous. Charles St; hnoon-11pm Mon-Fri, 11am-11pm Sat,
to 10pm Sun; YCharles/MGH) If you are into
MOOO… STEAK $$$ your wine, you’ll be into the Bin. Big win-
Map p234 (%617-670-2515; www.mooores- dows overlook Charles St and wine bottles
taurant.com; 15 Beacon St; 3-course prix-fixe line the walls. The 60-page wine list spans
lunch/dinner $25/45; h7am-10:30pm Mon-Fri, the globe, including a moderately priced
8am-11pm Sat, 10am-10pm Sun; YPark St) This house wine that is bottled in Italy just for
super-cool, modern steakhouse presents a the restaurant. Staff will insist you order
challenge: don’t fill up on the irresistible food (due to licensing requirements), but
rolls before your food arrives. You’ll be glad you won’t regret sampling the simple, sea-
you saved room for the meaty specialties sonal menu.
such as steak tartare and Kobe beef dump-
lings. For an extra decadent, carnivorous SEVENS DIVE BAR
touch, steaks are served with bone-marrow Map p234 (www.sevensalehouse.com; 77 Charles
butter. You can order a la carte, but the St; h11:30am-1am; YCharles/MGH) Beacon
prix-fixe is an unbeatable deal. Hill’s long-standing neighborhood dive bar
looks old school, with its wooden bar placed
under hanging glasses, and a few comfort-
DRINKING &
6 NIGHTLIFE
able booths. Service is brusque but endear-
ing. The place serves only wine and beer,
including a house brew from Harpoon.
TIP TAP ROOM BAR
Map p230 (www.thetiptaproom.com; 138 Cam- 6B LOUNGE COCKTAIL BAR, CLUB
bridge St; h11:30am-2am Mon-Sat, 10:30am-2am Map p234 (www.6bloungeandrestaurant.com;

Sun; W; YCharles/MGH or Bowdoin) The ‘tips’ 6 Beacon St; cover after 9:30pm Fri $5; h11am-
are steak, lamb, turkey, chicken or sword- 2am; YPark St) Most nights of the week,
fish. The ‘taps’ are nearly 40 kinds of beer, this is a pleasant but innocuous cocktail
77
bar with forgettable food. But come Friday CRUSH BOUTIQUE CLOTHING
night, the bar morphs into a wildly popular Map p234 (www.shopcrushboutique.com; 131
1990s dance party (from 10pm), featuring Charles St; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun;
the local spinning legend DJ T-Rex. Satur- YCharles/MGH) Fashion mavens rave about
day nights are fun, too (and free), with all this cozy basement boutique on Charles St,
your favorite pop tunes from Madonna, which features both well-loved designers
Rick James, Michael Jackson and Wham! and up-and-coming talents. The selection
of clothing is excellent, but it’s the expert
CHEERS PUB advice that makes this place so popular.
Map p234 (www.cheersboston.com; 84 Beacon
St; h11am-1am; YArlington) We understand BLACKSTONE’S OF
that this is a mandatory pilgrimage place BEACON HILL GIFTS, ACCESSORIES
for fans of the TV show. But be aware that Map p234 (www.blackstonesbeaconhill.com; 46
the bar doesn’t really look like its famous Charles St; h10am-6:30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm
TV alter ego, unless you sit in the ‘set bar,’ Sun; YCharles/MGH) Here’s a guarantee: you
which is a replica of the set. It’s also not will find the perfect gift for that certain
really charming or local or ‘Boston’ in any someone at Blackstone’s. This little place
way. In short, nobody knows your name. is crammed with classy, clever and other-
Be ac o n H i ll & Bos to n C o m m o n E n t er tai n me n t

wise unusual items. Highlights include the
3 ENTERTAINMENT
custom-designed stationery, locally made
handicrafts and quirky Boston-themed sou-
venirs like clocks and coasters.
oSHAKESPEARE ON
THE COMMON THEATER GOOD JEWELRY, GIFTS
Map p234 (www.commshakes.org; Boston Com- Map p234 (www.shopatgood.com; 133 Charles
mon; h8pm Tue-Sat, 7pm Sun Jul & Aug; YPark St; h10am-7pm Tue-Fri, to 6pm Sat; YCharles/
St) Each summer, the Commonwealth MGH) So many lovely things to look at, from
Shakespeare Company stages a major pro- exquisite custom-designed jewelry and at-
duction on the Boston Common, drawing tractive housewares to quirky baby gifts,
crowds for (free) Shakespeare under the chic scarves and handbags. It’s hard to
stars. Productions often appeal to the mass- ascertain the common theme here, except
es with a populist twist. Thus The Taming the items are unique, stylish and supremely
of the Shrew, set in a North End restaurant. classy. Browsing is encouraged.
BEACON HILL CHOCOLATES FOOD & DRINK
7 SHOPPING Map p234 (www.beaconhillchocolates.com; 91

Charles St; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat, noon-5:30pm
There was a time when Charles St was
Sun; YCharles/MGH) This artisanal chocolat-
lined with antique shops and nothing
ier puts equal effort into selecting fine choc-
else: some historians claim that the
olates from around the world and designing
country’s antique trade began right here
beautiful keepsake boxes to contain them.
on Beacon Hill. You’ll also find plenty
of contemporary galleries, preppy CORE DE VIE CLOTHING
boutiques and practical shops to go along Map p234 (www.coredevie.com; 40 Charles St;
with all that old stuff. YCharles/MGH) Work that thang in the on-
site studio, then reward yourself with a new
oRUBY DOOR JEWELRY
outfit to show off your fit self. The main at-
Map p234 (www.therubydoor.com; 15 Charles St; traction is the excellent, ever-renewing se-
h11am-6pm Mon-Sat; YCharles/MGH) What
lection of active wear, but there’s also versa-
will you find behind the ruby door? Gor- tile, comfortable clothing that you can wear
geous, hand-crafted jewelry, much of it in your everyday life.
featuring intriguing gemstones and unique
vintage elements. Designer and owner EUGENE GALLERIES ANTIQUES
Tracy Chareas reworks antique and vintage Map p234 (www.eugenegalleries.com; 76 Charles
jewels into thoroughly modern pieces of St; h11am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun;
art. There is also plenty of more affordable YCharles/MGH) This tiny shop has a remark-
jewelry for bauble lovers. Great for brows- able selection of antique prints and maps,
ing, with no pressure to buy. especially focusing on old Boston. Follow
78
the history of the city’s development by ex- adorable, unusual outfits for small tykes,
amining 18th- and 19th-century maps and as well as books and toys. Upstairs, you’ll
witness the filling-in of Back Bay and the find sweet and sassy fashions for ̛ tweens.
greening of the city.
WISH CLOTHING
HELEN’S LEATHER SHOES, ACCESSORIES Map p234 (www.wishboston.com; 49 Charles
Map p234 (www.helensleather.com; 110 Charles St; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 11am-6pm Sat & Sun;
St; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; YCharles/MGH) Some skeptics complain
YCharles/MGH) You probably didn’t realize about the more-fashionable-than-thou at-
that you would need your cowboy boots in titude, but others argue that it does not
Boston. Never fear, you can pick up a slick detract from the way-cool women’s wear
pair right here on Beacon Hill. (Indeed, this at Wish. Snazzy suits and sweaters by top-
is the number-one distributor of cowboy end designers have price tags to match; the
boots in New England.) dress selection is superb, so it’s a nice place
to splurge on a special-occasion gown.
MARIKA’S ANTIQUE SHOP ANTIQUES
Map p234 (130 Charles St; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat;
YCharles/MGH) More than 50 years ago, a SPORTS &
2
Be ac o n H i ll & Bos to n C o m m o n S por t s & A c t ivi t ies
Hungarian immigrant opened this treasure

trove in Boston’s antique central. Today, it ACTIVITIES
is run by her grandson, who is extremely BOSTON COMMON FROG POND SKATING
knowledgeable about his inventory. Map p234 (www.bostonfrogpond.com; Boston
Common; admission adult/child $5/free, rental
TWENTIETH CENTURY LTD JEWELRY
$10/5; h10am-4pm Mon, to 9pm Tue-Sun mid-
Map p234 (www.boston-vintagejewelry.com; 73
Nov–mid-Mar; c; YPark St) When tempera-
Charles St; h11am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun;
tures drop, the Boston Common becomes
YCharles/MGH) Not just jewelry, but vintage
an urban winter wonderland, with slipping
jewelry, especially Bakelite, silver and art-
and sliding, swirling and twirling on the
deco designs – costume jewelry made by
Frog Pond. Weekends are often crowded, as
the great designers of yesteryear. The selec-
are weekdays around noon, as local skate
tion is overwhelming, with something to fit
fiends spend their lunch break on the ice.
everybody’s price range.
In warmer weather, the Frog Pond becomes
BLACK INK GIFTS
a wet and wild spray pool where kids can
Map p234 (www.blackinkboston.com; 101
cool off.
Charles St; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun;
The nearby Tadpole Playground (Map
p234; YPark) is another fun place for the
YCharles/MGH) Black Ink started as a shop
for stationery and rubber stamps (thus, the kids to expend some extra energy.
name), but it has developed into something COMMUNITY BOATING WATER SPORTS
so much more fun. The tagline – ‘unexpect-
Map p234 (www.community-boating.org; Charles
ed necessities’ – conveys the fact that most
River Esplanade; kayak/sailboat per day $40/79;
of this stuff is functional, as well as quirky
h1pm-dusk Mon-Fri, 9am-dusk Sat & Sun Apr-Oct;
and clever (if not exactly necessary).
YCharles/MGH) Offers experienced sailors
MOXIE SHOES, ACCESSORIES
unlimited use of sailboats and kayaks on
Map p234 (www.moxieboston.com; 51 Charles
the Charles River, but you’ll have to take a
St; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 11am-6pm Sat & Sun;
test to demonstrate your ability. A 30-day
YCharles/MGH) ‘No outfit is complete with-
‘learn to sail’ package is $99, while a 60-day
out that perfect pair of shoes.’ And, ‘Why boating pass is $219.
have one bag when you can have a collec- GONDOLA DI VENEZIA CRUISE
tion?’ These bits of wisdom are what in-
Map p234 (%617-876-2800; www.bostongondo-
spired avid shopper Karen Fabbri to open
las.com; Community Boating, Charles River Espla-
a store dedicated to shoes, handbags and
nade; tours per couple $99-229; h2-11pm Fri-Sun
other accessories.
Jun-Oct; YCharles/MGH) Make no mistake
RED WAGON CHILDREN
about it – the Charles River is not the Grand
Map p234 (www.theredwagon.com; 69 Charles
Canal. However, the gondolier’s technique
and the craftsmanship of the boat make
St; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun; c ;
these private gondola rides a romantic
YCharles/MGH) The Red Wagon carries
treat. Advanced reservations required.
79
Downtown &
Waterfront
FANEUIL HALL | QUINCY MARKET | DOWNTOWN CROSSING | FINANCIAL DISTRICT | WATERFRONT

1 Frolicking in the Ring 3 Remembering the first 5 Eating, drinking, shop-
Fountain, riding the carou- violent confrontation of the ping and general merry-
sel and walking the laby- American Revolution at the making at Faneuil Hall
rinth in the Rose Kennedy site of the Boston and Quincy Market (p83),
Greenway (p84). Massacre (p82). Boston’s oldest marketplace.
2 Taking a whale- 4 Seeing eye-to-eye with

watching boat (p91) out to multicolored fish, toothy
Stellwagen Bank to spy on sharks and massive sea
whales, dolphins and other turtles at the New England
sea life. Aquarium (p81).
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DISTRICT DISTRICT

80
Lonely Planet’s
Top Tip Explore Downtown & Waterfront
If you are following the red- Almost every visitor will traipse through this neighbor-
brick road, consider pur- hood while following the Freedom Trail to Faneuil Hall
chasing the Freedom Trail and Quincy Market. Indeed, the marketplace is one of
Ticket (adult/child $13/2), the most visited tourist sites in the country. Even though
which includes admission to it’s basically a shopping mall (but a historic shopping
the Old State House, the Old mall!), it’s a fun stop to admire the public art, cheer on
South Meeting House and the street performers and soak up the festive atmos-
the Paul Revere House. phere.
The marketplace is a stark contrast to the neighbor-
hood’s interior streets around Downtown Crossing and
Best Places the Financial District. This is the Boston of the work-
5 to Eat a-day world – a bustling place, but after hours the streets
¨¨ Koy (p86) are eerily empty.
¨¨ Casa Razdora (p86)
Along the waterfront, the dismantling of the Central
Artery has meant that the call of seagulls and the lap-
¨¨ Pedro’s Tacos (p86)
ping of waves no longer compete with the roar of cars.
¨¨ jm Curley (p87)
Instead, pedestrians can stroll across the Rose Kennedy
¨¨ Marliave (p87) Greenway parks to the harbor, enjoying the greenery
For reviews, see p86 A and admiring the Rings Fountain along the way. The fo-
cal point of the waterfront is the excellent New England
D ow ntow n & Wate rfro nt
Aquarium. From Long Wharf, you can catch the ferry

Best Places out to the Boston Harbor Islands. Harbor cruises and
6 to Drink trolley tours also depart from these docks, while seafood
restaurants and outdoor cafés line the shore.
¨¨ Highball Lounge (p88) It’s tourist central, and with good reason. With the sun
¨¨ Silvertone (p88) sparkling off the water and the boats bobbing at their
¨¨ Thinking Cup (p88) moorings, it’s hard to resist this city by the sea.
¨¨ Caffe Nero (p88)
For reviews, see p88 A Local Life

¨ Block Party On Thursday evenings in summer, the
Best Historic Greenway hosts a block party on Dewey Sq (Map p236;
1 Buildings www.rosekennedygreenway.org; Atlantic Ave & Summer St;
YSouth Station), where local workers gather for drinks
¨¨ Old State House (p82)
and music.
¨¨ Faneuil Hall (p83) ¨ Happy Hour Mr Dooley’s Boston Tavern (p88) is the
¨¨ Custom House (p86) rare downtown bar that feels like a neighborhood bar.

¨ Metro To reach Faneuil Hall and Quincy Market,
take the green, orange or blue line to Haymarket,
Government Center or State. The blue-line Aquarium
stop offers access to the waterfront, as does State
(orange or blue). Downtown Crossing sits at the
junction of the red and orange lines. Just west of here,
Park St station is on the red and green lines.
¨ Boat City Water Taxi stops at Long Wharf on the
waterfront, while the MBTA water shuttle runs from
Long Wharf to Charlestown Navy Yard.
NEW ENGLAND AQUARIUM
YIMING CHEN/GETTY IMAGES ©
Teeming with sea creatures of all sizes, shapes and DON’T MISS
colors, this giant fishbowl is the centerpiece of
downtown Boston’s waterfront. The main attraction ¨¨ The magical Leafy
is the newly renovated, three-story Giant Ocean Tank, Sea Dragon
which swirls with thousands of creatures great and ¨¨ The ethereal Moon
small, including turtles, sharks and eels. Countless Jelly
side exhibits explore the habitats of other underwater ¨¨ The three-story
oddities, as well as penguins and marine mammals. Giant Ocean Tank
Harbor seals hang out in an observation tank near the ¨¨ Myrtle the green sea
aquarium entrance, while the open-air Marine Mammal turtle
Center is home to northern fur seals and California sea
lions. Visitors can watch training sessions where the pin-
nipeds show off their intelligence and athleticism. Note that PRACTICALITIES
some animal rights groups make a strong case that marine
¨¨ Map p236
mammals should not be kept in captivity, no matter how
classy their quarters. ¨¨ www.neaq.org
The Shark and Ray Touch Tank recreates a mangrove ¨¨ Central Wharf
swamp teeming with Atlantic rays, cownose rays, bonnet- ¨¨ adult/child $25/18
head sharks and epaulette sharks. Descend to the lower ¨¨ h9am-5pm Mon-
level to discover a room full of ethereal sea jellies. Despite Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun,
having no bones, brains or hearts, these captivating species opens 1hr later Jul &
have somehow managed to survive for millions of years. Aug
Most of the aquarium’s first floor is occupied by an enor- ¨¨ p c
mous penguin exhibit, home to more than 80 birds rep-
¨¨ YAquarium
resenting three different species. Throughout the day, visi-
tors can see live demonstrations and feedings. Six different
tanks showcase the flora and fauna of the Amazon rainfor-
est, including piranhas, anacondas, electric eels and poison dart frogs.
The 3-D Simons IMAX Theatre (p89) features films with aquatic themes. The aquarium
also organizes whale-watching cruises (p91). Combination tickets are available.
OLD STATE HOUSE
Dating to 1713, making it Boston’s oldest surviving DON’T MISS
public building, the Old State House is where the
Massachusetts Assembly used to debate the issues ¨¨ From Colony to Com-
of the day before the revolution. It occupies a once monwealth audio tour
prominent spot on State St (then known as King St), ¨¨ Paul Revere’s en-
which was Boston’s main thoroughfare. The building is graving of the Boston
best known for its balcony, from where the Declaration Massacre
of Independence was first read to Bostonians in 1776. ¨¨ Boston Massacre
Site
Museum
Inside, the Old State House contains a small museum of
revolutionary memorabilia, with videos and multimedia
PRACTICALITIES
presentations about the Boston Massacre. An informative ¨¨ Map p236
exhibit From Colony to Commonwealth utilizes audio pres- ¨¨ www.revolutionary
entations and items from the Bostonian Society’s collection boston.org
to trace important events of the independence movement.
¨¨ 206 Washington St
¨¨ adult/child $10/free
Boston Massacre Site
¨¨ h9am-6pm Jun-
Directly in front of the Old State House, encircled by cob-
blestones, a bronze plaque (Map p236; cnr State & Devonshire Aug, to 5pm Sep-May
Sts; YState) marks the spot where the first blood was shed ¨¨ Y State
for the American independence movement. On March 5,
1770, an angry mob of colonists swarmed the British sol-
diers guarding the State House. Sam Adams, John Hancock and about 40 other protesters
hurled snowballs, rocks and insults. Thus provoked, the soldiers fired into the crowd and
killed five townspeople, including Crispus Attucks, a former slave. The incident sparked
enormous anti-British sentiment. Paul Revere helped fan the flames by widely dissemi-
nating an engraving that depicted the scene as an unmitigated slaughter. Interestingly,
John Adams and Josiah Quincy – both of whom opposed the heavy-handed authoritarian
British rule – defended the accused soldiers in court, and seven of the nine were acquitted.
83
1 SIGHTS base of the shop next door, the 1737 Bos-

ton Stone (Map p236; Creek Sq; YHaymarket)
served as the terminus for measuring dis-
tances to and from ‘the Hub.’ (The State
1 Faneuil Hall, Quincy House dome now serves this purpose.)
Market & Around
NEW ENGLAND
Historic Faneuil Hall, along with the three HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL MEMORIAL
long granite buildings that make up Quincy Map p236 (www.nehm.org; btwn Union & Congress
Market, served as the center of the city’s Sts; YHaymarket) Constructed in 1995, the six
produce and meat industry for almost 150 luminescent glass columns of the New Eng-
years. In the 1970s the old buildings were land Holocaust Memorial are engraved with
redeveloped into today’s touristy, festive six million numbers, representing those
shopping and eating center, so it still serves killed in the Holocaust. Each tower – with
its original purpose, albeit with all the smoldering coals sending plumes of steam
modern trappings. up through the glass corridors – represents
a different Nazi death camp. The memorial
OLD STATE HOUSE HISTORIC BUILDING sits along the Freedom Trail, a sobering re-
See p82. minder of its larger meaning.
FANEUIL HALL HISTORIC BUILDING CITY HALL PLAZA SQUARE
Map p236 (www.nps.gov/bost; Congress St; Map p236 (Y Government Center) City Hall
h9am-5pm; YHaymarket or Government Plaza is a cold, windy, 56-acre concrete
D ow ntow n & Wate rfro nt S ights

Center) F ‘Those who cannot bear free plaza, surrounded by government office
speech had best go home,’ said Wendell buildings. Occupying the site of the for-
Phillips. ‘Faneuil Hall is no place for slavish mer Scollay Sq, the plaza was supposed to
hearts.’ Indeed, this public meeting place be a model of innovation and moderniza-
was the site of so much rabble-rousing tion when it was built in the 1960s. But
that it earned the nickname the ‘Cradle of it has been much maligned, topping at
Liberty.’ After the revolution, Faneuil Hall least one list of the world’s ugliest build-
was a forum for meetings about abolition, ings. The plaza hosts food trucks, public
women’s suffrage and war. The historic hall gatherings and occasional summertime
is normally open to the public, who can performances.
hear about the building’s history from NPS
rangers.
The brick colonial building – topped with
the beloved grasshopper weather vane –
was constructed in 1740 at the urging of STEAMING TEA KETTLE
Boston benefactor and merchant Peter Fa-
neuil. In 1805 Charles Bulfinch enlarged The Steaming Kettle (Map p236; 63-65
the building, enclosing the 1st-floor market Court St) on Sears Crescent has been
and designing the 2nd-floor meeting space, a Boston landmark since 1873, when it
where public ceremonies are still held to- was hung over the door of the Oriental
day. On the 3rd floor the Ancient & Honor- Tea Co at 57 Court St. The teashop
able Artillery Co of Massachusetts, which held a contest to determine how much
was chartered in 1638, maintains a peculiar tea the giant kettle might hold. The
collection of antique firearms, political me- answer – awarded with a chest of
mentos and curious artifacts. premium tea – was 227 gallons, two
quarts, one pint and three gills.
BLACKSTONE BLOCK HISTORIC SITE
The tea kettle was relocated to its
Map p236 (cnr Union & Hanover Sts; YHaymar-
current location on the western tip of
ket) Named after Boston’s first settler, this
the Sears Crescent building in 1967,
tiny warren of streets dates to the 17th and
when ‘urban renewal’ swept this neigh-
18th centuries. Established in 1826, Union
borhood. Tea drinkers are grateful
Oyster House (p86) is Boston’s oldest res-
that this icon of old Boston was saved,
taurant. Around the corner in Creek Sq,
although many are miffed that it now
the c 1767 Ebenezer Hancock House was
the home of John Hancock’s brother. At the marks the spot of a Starbucks.
84
Designed by IM Pei, City Hall Plaza is ite chapel standing today – built in 1754 –
home to the fortress-like Boston City Hall houses the largest bell ever made by Paul
and the twin towers of the John F Kennedy Revere, as well as a historic organ. The ad-
Federal Building. The plaza’s high points jacent burying ground is the oldest in the
are the gracefully curved brick Sears Cres- city. Besides the bi-weekly services, recitals
cent (Map p236; cnr Court & Tremont Sts), one are held here every week (12:15pm Tuesday).
of the few buildings that remains from the The church was built on a corner of the
Scollay Sq days, and the sweeping curve of city cemetery because the Puritans refused
the modern Center Plaza (Map p236; Cam- to allow the Anglicans to use any other land.
bridge St; YGovernment Center), which mir- As a result, these are some of the city’s oldest
rors Sears Crescent. headstones, including one that dates to 1623.
Famous graves include John Winthrop, the
first governor of the fledgling Massachusetts
1 Downtown Crossing & Bay Colony; William Dawes, who rode with
Financial District Paul Revere; and Mary Chilton, the first Eu-
ropean woman to set foot in Plymouth.
KING’S CHAPEL & In addition to the self-guided tour, visi-
BURYING GROUND CHURCH, CEMETERY tors are invited on the Bells & Bones tour,
Map p236 (www.kings-chapel.org; 58 Tremont which ascends the bell tower to admire Paul
St; self-guided tour donation $2, Bells & Bones Revere’s work and descends into the crypt
tour $8; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 1:30-5pm Sun; to wander among 250-year-old remains.
YState) Puritan Bostonians were not
OLD CITY HALL HISTORIC SITE
pleased when the original Anglican church
was erected on this site in 1688. The gran- Map p236 (www.oldcityhall.com; 45 School St;
YState) This monumental French Second
ROSE KENNEDY GREENWAY

The gateway to the newly revitalized waterfront is the Rose Kennedy Greenway
(Map p236; www.rosekennedygreenway.org; c ; YAquarium or Haymarket). Where once
was a hulking overhead highway, now winds a 27-acre strip of landscaped gardens
and fountain-lined greens, with an artist market for Saturday shoppers, and food
trucks for weekday lunchers.
Walking the Greenway from North to South, here’s what you’ll find along the way:
¨¨ North End Park Designed as the North End neighborhood’s front yard, the wide
lawn is a perfect place for a picnic.
¨¨ Labyrinth Calm your mind and contemplate the moment as you follow the gran-
ite path, winding its way along a serpentine route. The labyrinth (Map p236; www.
rosekennedygreenway.org; Rose Kennedy Greenway; c ; YHaymarket) represents the
journey of life. (The destination is beside the point.)
¨¨ Greenway Carousel Take a ride on the backs of local sea and woodland crea-
tures, such as American lobsters, harbor seals, monarch butterflies and red-tailed
hawks. This one-of-a-kind carousel (Map p236; $3; h11am-7pm Apr-Dec; c ; YHaymar-
ket) was designed by local artist Jeff Briggs with help from local school children.
¨¨ Boston Harbor Islands Pavilion Want more information about the Boston
Harbor Islands? Stop by this seasonal information center (p216). Don’t miss the
nearby Harbor Fog Sculpture, which immerses passers-by in the sounds and sensa-
tions of the harbor.
¨¨ Rings Fountain This playful fountain (Map p236; YAquarium) is unpredictable
and irresistible, especially on a hot day.
¨¨ Dewey Sq Parks With food vendors and farmers markets, this is a popular lunch
spot for the working world. Dewey Sq is also the site of Boston’s most prominent
street art – usually a mural by an artist of some renown.
¨¨ Chinatown Park Asian gardens, Chinese chessboards and Falun Gong
practitioners populate this plaza, which serves as the gateway to Chinatown.
85
MILLENNIUM TOWER
For nearly 100 years, Filene’s Department Store was the cornerstone of Downtown
Crossing. But when city dwellers started moving out to the suburbs and shopping at
malls, fortunes changed for the department store and for this downtown shopping
area. By the late 20th century, many storefronts were empty and Filene’s was strug-
gling. In 2006, the retail chain was sold to Macy’s, and the flagship store was eventu-
ally shuttered.
Much to the dismay of Bostonians, the building was demolished in 2008 (though
the historic facade was preserved). There were grand plans for the site, but they
didn’t get too far before the developer ran out of money. Downtown Crossing was left
with a massive hole in its core.
Five years later, Bostonians were relieved when work started anew on this site.
Filene’s successor will be Millennium Tower (Map p236; www.millenniumtowerboston.
com; Washington St; YDowntown Crossing) – a high-rise residential tower, and the tallest
skyscraper outside the Back Bay. It’s been a long time in coming, but the city has high
hopes that this endeavor will pump some new life into this declining district.
Empire building occupies a historic spot. food restaurant, which seems somewhat
Out front, a plaque commemorates the site less lofty than its earlier incarnations.
of the country’s first public school, Boston
Latin, founded in 1635 and still operational OLD SOUTH MEETING

in Fenway. The hopscotch sidewalk mosaic, HOUSE HISTORIC BUILDING
City Carpet, marks the spot where Benja- Map p236 (www.osmh.org; 310 Washington St;
min Franklin, Ralph Waldo Emerson and adult/child $6/1; h9:30am-5pm Apr-Oct, 10am-
Charles Bulfinch were educated. 4pm Nov-Mar; YDowntown Crossing or State)
Statues of Benjamin Franklin, founding ‘No tax on tea!’ That was the decision on
father, and Josiah Quincy, second mayor of December 16, 1773, when 5000 angry colo-
Boston, stand inside the courtyard. They nists gathered here to protest British taxes,
are accompanied by a life-size replica of a leading to the Boston Tea Party. Visit the
donkey, symbol of the Democratic Party. graceful meeting house to check out an ex-
(‘Why the donkey?’ you wonder. Read the hibit about the history of the building and
plaque to find out.) Two bronze footprints listen to an audio reenactment of the his-
‘stand in opposition.’ toric pre–Tea Party meeting.
This brick meeting house, with its soar-
ing steeple, was also used as a church house
OLD CORNER
back in the day. In fact, Ben Franklin was
BOOKSTORE HISTORIC BUILDING
baptized here. Which is why he found it so
Map p236 (cnr School & Washington Sts; YDown- abhorrent when – after the Tea Party – Brit-
town Crossing) In the 19th century, this ish soldiers used the building for a stable
historic house was leased to a bookseller, and riding practice. The Old South congre-
Carter & Hendlee. This was the first of nine gation moved to a new building in Back Bay
bookstores and publishing companies that in 1875, when Ralph Waldo Emerson and
would occupy the spot, making it a breed- Julia Ward Howe gathered support to con-
ing ground for literary and philosophical vert the church into a museum.
ideas. The most illustrious was Ticknor &
Fields, publisher of books by Thoreau, Em-
erson, Hawthorne, Longfellow and Harriet
Beecher Stowe. 1 Waterfront
In the earliest days of Boston history, this
NEW ENGLAND AQUARIUM AQUARIUM
was the site of the home of Anne Hutchin-
son, the religious dissident who was ex- See p81.
pelled from the Massachusetts Bay colony
CUSTOM HOUSE MUSEUM
and co-founded the Rhode Island colony.
Map p236 (www.marriott.com; 3 McKinley Sq; ob-
The current brick building dates to 1718,
servation deck $5; hobservation deck 2pm Sat-
when it served as a pharmacy and resi-
Thu; YAquarium) Begun in 1837, the lower
dence. Today the storefront houses a fast
86
portion of the Custom House resembles a the ‘twists’ are what make mouths water,
Greek temple. But the federal government not to mention the original cocktails. Soju
wanted something grander, so in 1913 it Sangria is potent.
exempted itself from local height restric-
tions and financed a 500ft tower. Nowadays DURGIN PARK AMERICAN $$
there are many taller buildings, but the 22ft Map p236 (www.durgin-park.com; North Market,
illuminated clock makes this gem the most Faneuil Hall; mains lunch $9-15, dinner $15-30;
recognizable part of the city skyline. h11:30am-9pm; c ; YHaymarket) Known for
One of Boston’s first skyscrapers, the no-nonsense service, Durgin Park hasn’t
Custom House now houses a Marriott ho- changed much since the restaurant opened
tel. But that doesn’t mean you have to dole in 1827. Nor has the menu, which features
out big bucks to appreciate the building’s New England standards such as prime rib,
history and aesthetics. The public is wel- fish chowder, chicken pot pie and Boston
come to the 1st-floor rotunda, a work of baked beans, with Indian pudding for des-
art in itself, which houses a small exhibit sert. Be prepared to make friends with the
of maritime art and artifacts from Salem’s other parties seated at your table.
Peabody Essex Museum (p170). Even better,
the public is welcome to enjoy the spectacu- UNION OYSTER HOUSE SEAFOOD $$$
lar views from the 26th-floor observation Map p236 (www.unionoysterhouse.com; 41 Union
deck when weather permits. St; mains lunch $15-20, dinner $22-32; h11am-
9:30pm; YHaymarket) The oldest restaurant
in Boston, ye olde Union Oyster House
has been serving seafood in this historic
5 EATING
D ow ntow n & Wate rfro nt E ating
red-brick building since 1826. Countless

history-makers have propped themselves
up at this bar, including Daniel Webster
and John F Kennedy. (Apparently JFK used
5 Faneuil Hall, Quincy to order the lobster bisque.) Overpriced but
Market & Around atmospheric.
Faneuil Hall and its environs are packed
with touristy places touting baked beans,
live lobsters and other Boston specialties. 5 Downtown Crossing &
It’s hard to get off the beaten track, but Financial District
that doesn’t mean you won’t find some fun,
funky and delicious places to eat. CASA RAZDORA ITALIAN $
Map p236 (www.casarazdora.com; 115 Water St;
QUINCY MARKET FOOD COURT $ mains $7-10; h11am-4pm Mon-Wed, to 5pm Thu
Map p236 (www.faneuilhallmarketplace.com; & Fri; v; YState) The line is usually out the
Congress St; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm door, but it’s worth the wait for amazing
Sun; Wv c ; YHaymarket) Behind Faneuil Italian food, just like your nonna made.
Hall, this food court offers a variety of Pick a pasta (all made fresh on the prem-
places under one roof: the place is packed ises) and top it with the delicious sauce of
with about 20 restaurants and 40 food your choosing. Or select one of the chef’s
stalls. Choose from chowder, bagels, In- mouthwatering daily specials. Seats are
dian, Greek, baked goods and ice cream, limited, so snag one if you can!
and take a seat at one of the tables in the
central rotunda. PEDRO’S TACOS MEXICAN $
Map p236 (www.pedrostacos.com; 55 Bromfield
KOY KOREAN $$ St; tacos $3-5; h7am-6pm Mon-Fri; v c ; YPark
Map p236 (%857-991-1483; www.koyboston.com; St) Imagine a sweet, surfside taco shop in
16 North St; mains $15-28; h11am-midnight Sun- Southern California, transplanted to down-
Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; W; YHaymarket) It’s unu- town Boston. That’s Pedro’s, complete with
sual that something so classy, so contem- boards on the wall, chilled-out ambience
porary and so cosmopolitan should find a and to-die-for fish tacos. But there’s one
home in historic Blackstone Block. But here thing this joint has that SoCal taquerias
it is: Korean fusion. There are traditional don’t: lobster tacos. Why didn’t somebody
dishes, including excellent bibimbap, but think of that before?
87
CHACARERO SANDWICHES $ picnic on the Common. If you prefer to sit
Map p236 (www.chacarero.com; 101 Arch St; inside, there’s another location nearby on
mains breakfast $4-6, lunch $7-10; h8am-6pm Summer St (Map p236; 62 Summer St; mains
Mon-Fri; YDowntown Crossing) A chacarero is $5-7; h11am-7:30pm Mon-Fri; v; YDowntown
a traditional Chilean sandwich made with Crossing).
grilled chicken or beef, Muenster cheese,
fresh tomatoes, guacamole and the surprise JM CURLEY PUB FOOD $$
ingredient – steamed green beans. Stuffed Map p236 (www.jmcurleyboston.com; 21 Temple
into homemade bread, the sandwiches are a Pl; mains lunch $8-10, dinner $13-20; h11:30am-
favorite for lunch around Downtown. 1am; YDowntown Crossing) This dim, inviting
bar is a perfect place to settle in for a Dark
SAM LA GRASSA’S DELI $ & Stormy on a dark and stormy night. The
Map p236 (www.samlagrassas.com; 44 Province fare is bar food like you’ve never had before:
St; sandwiches $12-13; h11am-3:30pm Mon-Fri; curley’s cracka jack (caramel corn with ba-
v c ; YDowntown Crossing) Step up to the con); mac ‘n’ cheese (served in a cast-iron
counter and place your order for one of Sam skillet); and fried pickles (yes, you read that
La Grassa’s signature sandwiches, then find right). That’s why they call it a gastropub.
a spot at the crowded communal table. You The place is named for Boston’s beloved
won’t be disappointed by the famous Ro- four-term (including one term – his last –
manian pastrami or the ‘fresh from the pot’ that he served from prison) mayor.
corned beef. All of the sandwiches are so
well stuffed that they can be tricky to eat, MARLIAVE AMERICAN, FRENCH $$$
which is part of the fun. Map p236 (www.marliave.com; 10 Bosworth St;
D ow ntow n & Wate rfro nt E ating

sandwiches $14-16, mains $22-38; h11am-10pm;
FALAFEL KING MIDDLE EASTERN $ v ; YPark St) Dating to 1885, the Marliave
Map p236 (48 Winter St; mains $5-7; h11am-8pm has all of its vintage architectural quirks
Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat; v; YDowntown Crossing) still intact, from the mosaic floor to the tin
Two words: free falafels. That’s right, eve- ceilings. The wide-ranging menu includes
ryone gets a little free sample before order- quirky cocktails, a raw bar, delicious egg
ing. There is no disputing that this carry- dishes, house-made pastas, and old-fash-
out spot is indeed the falafel king of Bos- ioned Sunday dinners (eg, Wellington). Best
ton. The sandwiches are fast, delicious and bargain: half-price oysters from 4pm to
cheap, and you’re only a half a block from a 6pm and from 9pm to 10pm daily.
TO MARKET, TO MARKET
Local foodies are buzzing about the long-awaited opening of the Boston Public Mar-
ket, the city’s first permanent local farmers market. The location is just a few steps
from Haymarket, and a few more steps from Faneuil Hall and Quincy Market, which
is the city’s historic marketplace. As such, the new public market anchors a vibrant
‘market district’ in downtown Boston.
Boston Public Market (BPM; Map p236; www.bostonpublicmarket.org; 136 Blackstone St;
hMay-Nov; Y Haymarket) A locavore’s longtime dream-come-true, the Boston Public
Market is a daily farmers market, housed in a brick-and-mortar building, that gives
shoppers access to fresh foodstuffs, grown and harvested right here in New England.
Any day – spring, summer or fall – come for seasonal produce, fresh seafood, meats
and poultry from local farms, artisan cheeses and dairy products, maple syrup and
other sweets.
The BPM is due to open in the summer of 2015.
Haymarket (Map p236; Blackstone & Hanover Sts; h7am-5pm Fri & Sat; YHaymarket)
Touch the produce at Haymarket and you risk the wrath of the vendors, but nowhere
in the city matches these prices on ripe-and-ready fruits and vegetables. And no-
where matches Haymarket for local charm. Operated by the Haymarket Vendors As-
sociation, this outdoor market is an outlet for discount produce that was purchased
from wholesalers.
88
SIP CAFÉ CAFE
BOSTON CREAM PIE Map p236 (www.sipboston.com; Post Office Sq;

h6:30am-6pm Mon-Fri Apr-Nov, to 5pm Dec-Mar;
Wondering where to go to sample Bos- c ; YDowntown Crossing) Enclosed by glass
ton’s namesake dessert? At the Omni and surrounded by the greenery of Post Of-
Parker House, they could write a book fice Sq, Sip Café is a delightful place to stop
about Boston Cream Pie, as the hotel’s for lunch or a caffeinated beverage. There’s
pastry chefs invented this creamy, outdoor seating in warm weather, but even
cakey delight. Literally. For a special in winter, the high ceilings and streaming
occasion dessert, hunker down at the sunlight will warm your heart. As will the
Last Hurrah (p89) for an individual- George Howell coffee, daily-changing soups
sized Boston Cream Pie, artfully pre- and yummy sandwiches.
sented and masterfully paired with a
glass of Cava. Delightful! SILVERTONE PUB
Map p236 (www.silvertonedowntown.com; 69
Bromfield St; h11:30am-2am Mon-Fri, 6pm-2am
DRINKING &
6 NIGHTLIFE
Sat; YPark St) Black-and-white photos and
retro advertising posters create a nostal-
gic atmosphere at this still-trendy pub and
After the department store at Downtown grill. The old-fashioned comfort food is al-
Crossing locks up for the night, the ways satisfying (the steak tips come highly
street life quiets considerably. There recommended), as is Miller High Life in a
is a cluster of bars around Faneuil Hall bottle (and local beers on tap). Popular af-
D ow ntow n & Wate rfro nt D rinking & N ightlife
and Blackstone Block, but most of them ter-work spot.

actively cater to the tourist crowd and
have an underwhelming, generic vibe. CAFFE NERO CAFE
Embedded nearby are some perennial Map p236 (http://us.caffenero.com; 560 Wash-
favorites, some of them quite crowded ington St; h7am-9:30pm; W; YChinatown or
on weekends. Downtown Crossing) Italian coffee. Antique
Alsatian bar. Comfy couches and cozy fire-
THINKING CUP CAFE place. Cosmopolitan clientele. This place is
Map p236 (www.thinkingcup.com; 165 Tremont oozing Old World ambience, and we mean
St; h7am-10pm Mon-Wed, to 11pm Thu-Sun; that in the most modern, sophisticated way.
YBoylston) S There are a few things that
Espresso drinks are top-notch, and there’s
make the Thinking Cup special. One is the sidewalk seating in warm weather.
French hot chocolate – ooh la la. Another is FROST ICE BAR BAR
the Stumptown Coffee, the Portland brew Map p236 (www.frosticebar.com; Faneuil Hall Mar-
that has earned accolades from coffee- ketplace; adult/child $12/6; h2-9pm Mon-Thu,
drinkers around the country. But the best noon-10pm Fri & Sat, to 8pm Sun; YHaymarket)
thing? It’s across from the Boston Common, Don your puffy, insulated parka and enter
making it a perfect stop for a post–Frog the coolest bar in Boston. How cool is it?
Pond warm-up. Twenty-one degrees. This entire place is
carved out of ice, including the bar, the fur-
HIGHBALL LOUNGE COCKTAIL BAR, LOUNGE niture and the Boston-themed sculptures.
Map p236 (www.highballboston.com; 90 Tre-mont The bar serves overpriced cocktails ($11) in
St; h5pm-2am; YPark St) Go out to play! ice glasses. Kind of hokey, but kind of fun.
Well stocked with board games, the High- Young people (under 21) are not admitted
ball Lounge has yours, whether you’re on a after 5pm.
date (Connect Four) or in a group (Jenga).
MR DOOLEY’S BOSTON TAVERN IRISH PUB
The Viewmaster is for looking at the menu,
Map p236 (www.somerspubs.com; 77 Broad St;
which features local beers, creative cock-
h11:30am-2am Mon-Fri, 9am-2am Sat & Sun;
tails and intriguing snack foods (tater tot
YState) With Irish bands playing tradi-
nachos, crispy brussel sprouts). This place tional tunes from Friday to Sunday and a
will make you feel like a kid again. Except decent list of appropriate beers, this warm
you can drink. and inviting bar is one of the most welcom-
ing joints in the area. Sit in a wooden booth
89
and linger over a copy of the Irish Immi- crowded dance floors, an LED wall and a
grant or Boston Irish Reporter to learn great line-up of DJs. An international de-
about current events on the other side of signer crowd queues up, starting around
the Atlantic. midnight. Go online to get yourself on the
guestlist and look sharp. Free admission if
GOOD LIFE CLUB you eat at the restaurant.
Map p236 (www.goodlifebar.com; 28 Kingston St;
cover $5-10; h11:30am-2am Mon-Fri, 5pm-2am
Sat; YDowntown Crossing) The Good Life
means a lot of things to a lot of people – sol-
3 ENTERTAINMENT
id lunch option, after-work hangout, trivia OPERA HOUSE LIVE PERFORMANCE
night etc. But the top reason to come to the Map p236 (www.bostonoperahouse.com; 539
Good Life is to get your groove on. Three Washington St; YDowntown Crossing) This lav-
bars and two dance floors, with great DJs ish theater has been restored to its 1928
spinning tunes Thursday to Saturday. glory, complete with mural-painted ceiling,
gilded molding and plush velvet curtains.
LAST HURRAH HOTEL BAR The glitzy venue regularly hosts produc-
Map p236 (www.omnihotels.com; 60 School St; tions from the Broadway Across America
h11:30am-1am Mon-Fri, 6am-1am Sat; YPark series, and is also the main performance
St) It’s now named for the 1956 novel space for the Boston Ballet.
about former Boston mayor James Michael
Curley, but the elegant lobby bar of the PARAMOUNT CENTER DANCE, THEATER
Omni Parker House hotel was a hallowed Map p236 (www.paramountboston.org; 559
D ow ntow n & Wate rfro nt E ntertainment

haunt for Boston’s 19th-century intelligent- Washington St; YChinatown or Downtown Cross-
sia and politicians. Enjoy a dish of hot nuts ing) This art-deco masterpiece, restored by
and drink a bourbon at this throwback to Emerson College, re-opened in 2010. Origi-
Old Boston. nally a 1700-seat, single-screen cinema, it
was owned by Paramount Pictures (thus,
BIDDY EARLY’S PUB DIVE BAR the name). The new facility includes a cin-
Map p236 (141 Pearl St; h10am-2am; YSouth ema and a black-box stage, as well as the
Station) If dive bars are your thing, you’ll be more traditional but still grand main stage.
happy here. In fact, Biddy’s is sometimes
called the ‘best’ dive bar in Boston (a town DICK’S BEANTOWN COMEDY COMEDY
that has no shortage of them). We’re not Map p236 (www.dickdoherty.com; 184 High St;
sure what that means (Dirtiest bathrooms? admission $15-20; h7:30pm Thu & Sat, 8pm Fri &
Cheapest beer?), but needless to say, you’ll Sun; YAquarium) In the basement of a night-
find a dart board, a juke box, buckets of club, local comedian Dick Doherty and a
beers and very friendly faces on both sides collection of regular helpers work the room
of the bar. into painful howls with surgical precision.
Sunday nights are open mic, and the pain
ALLEY BAR GAY you feel on such occasions might feel very
Map p236 (www.thealleybar.com; 14 Pi Alley; different than on other days.
YDowntown Crossing) If you can find this se-
cret spot, you will be welcomed in. No mat- SIMONS IMAX THEATRE CINEMA
ter if you are petite, effeminate (or female) Map p236 (www.neaq.org; Central Wharf; adult/
or even straight. This place is known as a child $10/8; h10am-10pm; c; YAquarium) At
‘bear bar,’ but most of these big gruff guys the New England Aquarium, this IMAX
are friendly – very friendly. Enjoy the cheap bad boy plays lots of educational films on a
beer and laid-back atmosphere. six-story screen, in 3D. That way, when you
Pi Alley is a tiny pedestrian lane that have a gander at Sharks, you’ll actually feel
runs between Washington St and Court Sq. like you’re about to be eaten. It occasionally
plays IMAX versions of popular fare.
UMBRIA PRIME CLUB
Map p236 (www.umbriaristorante.com; 295 MODERN THEATRE CINEMA, THEATER
Franklin St; cover $20; h10pm-2am Fri & Sat; Map p236 (www.suffolk.edu; 525 Washington St;
YState) On weekends, the upper floors of YDowntown Crossing) The Modern Theatre
this Italian restaurant are transformed into dates to 1876 and showed Boston’s first
a swank nightclub, featuring plush couches, ‘talkie’ in 1928. Nearly a century later,
90
the building has opened its doors again local teams’ logos in super-cute styles de-
as a venue for Suffolk University, holding signed to flatter the female figure.
an intimate 185-seat theater. Only the fa-
cade remains from the original building, MAKE WAY FOR
but it looks stellar – another step in the DUCKLINGS CHILDREN, BOOKS
revival of a mini theater district on lower Map p236 (www.makewayforducklings.com;
Washington St. North Market, Faneuil Hall; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat,
11am-7pm Sun; c; YHaymarket) The legacy
of Robert McClosky’s ducklings lives on at
7 SHOPPING this children’s bookstore in Faneuil Hall
Marketplace. The friendly shop has a super
Downtown Crossing is an outdoor selection of books and toys for little people,
pedestrian mall. Many of the stores are including many written by local authors.
outlets of national chains, although a Story times and sing-alongs are regular
few local yokels are still keeping it real. events.
The Faneuil Hall and Quincy Market area
is possibly Boston’s most popular tourist SOCK IT TO ME ACCESSORIES
shopping spot: upward of 15 million Map p236 (www.sockittomeboston.com; South
people visit annually. The five buildings Market, Faneuil Hall; h11am-9pm Mon-Sat, noon-
are filled with 100-plus tourist-oriented 6pm Sun; YState) You know you want a pair
shops, pushcart vendors and national of Boston Terrier socks to remember your
chain stores. visit. Not your dog? Don’t worry, some 25
breeds are available. There are also cat
BRATTLE BOOK SHOP
D ow ntow n & Wate rfro nt S hopping
BOOKS socks, lobster socks, shoe socks and – of

Map p236 (www.brattlebookshop.com; 9 West St; course – Red Sox. Whether you choose fan-
h9am-5:30pm Mon-Sat; YPark St) Since 1825, cy, funky or funny, they are all functional
the Brattle Book Shop has catered to Bos- and fun. It’s the perfect souvenir, really.
ton’s literati: it’s a treasure trove crammed
with out-of-print, rare and first-edition DESIGN MUSEUM BOSTON STORE ARTS
books. Ken Gloss – whose family has owned Map p236 (www.designmuseumboston.org; 70
this gem since 1949 – is an expert on anti- East India Row; h11am-6pm Tue-Sat; YAquari-
quarian books, moonlighting as a consult- um) The Design Museum is a pop-up muse-
ant and appraiser (see him on Antiques um (‘Design is everywhere. So are we.’), but
Roadshow). Don’t miss the bargains on the the museum shop is always here, overlook-
outside lot. ing the Greenway, selling quirky T-shirts,
cool tote bags and attractive coffee-table
GREENWAY OPEN MARKET ART MARKET books. The gallery also showcases some
Map p236 (www.newenglandopenmarkets.com; rad pieces by partner designers. Drop in to
Rose Kennedy Greenway; h11am-5pm Sat May- find out about design exhibits and events
Oct; W; YAquarium) This Saturday-only all around town.
artist market brings dozens of vendors to
LOCAL CHARM JEWELRY
display their wares in the open air. Look
Map p236 (www.localcharm.net; South Market,
for unique, handmade gifts, jewelry, bags,
Faneuil Hall; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11am-7pm
paintings, ceramics and other arts and
Sun; YState) Here’s something to make you
crafts – most of which are locally and ethi-
cynical: Local Charm is a chain store, with
cally made. Food trucks are always on hand outlets in five states. Once you clear up that
to cater to the hungry. misunderstanding, you can appreciate the
LUCY’S LEAGUE CLOTHING
exquisite things on offer in this tiny jewelry
boutique. The jewelry is tasteful, artful and
Map p236 (www.rosterstores.com/lucysleague;
interesting. And some of it is even crafted
North Market, Faneuil Hall; h10am-9pm Mon-
by local artisans.
Sat, to 6pm Sun; YGovernment Center) We’re
not advocating those pink Red Sox caps, GEOCLASSICS JEWELRY
but sometimes a girl wants to look good Map p236 (www.geoclassics.com; North Market,
while she’s supporting the team. At Lucy’s Faneuil Hall; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm
League, fashionable sports fans will find Sun; YState) Geoclassics showcases miner-
shirts, jackets and other gear sporting the als, fossils and gemstones in jewelry and
other decorative settings. The natural beau-
91
ty of the stones is enhanced by their artistic c ; YAquarium) S Board the Voyager III
presentation. The collection of fossils – from for the journey out to Stellwagen Bank, a
dinosaur eggs to dragonflies – is incredible. rich feeding ground for whales, dolphins
and marine birds. Onboard naturalists can
REVOLUTIONARY answer all your questions, plus they have
BOSTON MUSEUM STORE SOUVENIRS
keen eyes. Whale sightings are guaranteed,
Map p236 (www.revolutionaryboston.org; Quincy otherwise you’ll receive a coupon for a free
Market; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun; trip at a later date.
YState) Souvenirs with an Americana
theme: woven throws featuring flags, ea-
NPS FREEDOM TRAIL TOUR WALKING TOUR
gles and other all-American goodness; re-
Map p236 (www.nps.gov/bost; Faneuil Hall;
productions of Paul Revere’s depiction of
h10am & 2pm Apr-Oct; YState) F Show
the Boston Massacre; patriotic coffee mugs
etc. The cleverest souvenirs are in the food up at least 30 minutes early to snag a spot
aisle: Boston Harbor Tea, Stars & Stripes on one of the free, ranger-led Freedom Trail
pasta and other treats to enliven your next tours provided by the National Park Ser-
July 4 cookout. vice. Tours depart from the visitor center
in Faneuil Hall, and follow a portion of the
JEWELERS EXCHANGE BUILDING JEWELRY Freedom Trail (not including Charlestown),
Map p236 (www.jewelersbuildingboston.com; 333 for a total of 90 minutes. Each tour is lim-
Washington St; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat; YDown- ited to 30 people.
town Crossing) With over 100 jewelers, this
historic building is the first stop for many LIBERTY FLEET CRUISE
D ow ntow n & Wate rfro nt S ports & A ctivities

would-be grooms. Some jewelers have retail Map p236 (%617-742-0333; www.libertyfleet.
space on the 1st floor, other less conspicu- com; Central Wharf; adult $30-35, child $19-24;
ous artisans work upstairs. If you’re over- htimes vary Jun-Sep; YAquarium) Th 125ft
whelmed by too many options, go to Boston Liberty Clipper and the smaller Liberty
Ring and Gem (BRAG) on the 2nd floor. Star take passengers out for a two-hour, 12-
The Zargarian family has been designing mile cruise around the harbor. The schoon-
and crafting the sparkly stuff for seven gen- ers sail several times a day, sometimes
erations. offering history reenactments, brunch or
sunsets. Purchase tickets online or from the
BOSTON PEWTER COMPANY SOUVENIRS
office on Long Wharf.
Map p236 (www.bostonpewtercompany.com; 5
South Market, Faneuil Hall; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat,
CODZILLA BOATING
noon-6pm Sun; YState) This specialty shop is
pretty much what the name says. Think ta- Map p236 (www.bostonharborcruises.com; 1
bleware, picture frames and light fixtures, Long Wharf; adult/child $29/25; htimes vary
all crafted from the elegant metal. The col- May-Sep; c; YAquarium) ‘Boating’ may not
lection is supplemented with other New be the proper word to describe this activity,
England collectibles like scrimshaw, copper which takes place on a 2800HP speedboat
weather vanes and hand-blown glass. that cruises through the waves at speeds of
up to 40mph. Painted like a multicolored
shark with a big toothy grin, the boat has a
SPORTS & unique hull design that enables it to do the
2 ACTIVITIES ocean version of doughnuts. Warning: you
will get wet.
oNEW ENGLAND AQUARIUM
WHALE WATCH WHALE WATCHING
Map p236 (www.neaq.org; Central Wharf; adult/
child/infant $49/33/16; htimes vary Apr-Oct;
©Lone-
92
Boston by Water
With the expansive Boston Harbor at its front door and the winding River Charles at
its back, Boston offers endless opportunities for beach bumming, boat rides, seaside
strolls and riverside relaxation. Whatever aquatic activity you choose, don’t miss a
chance to feel the breeze and soak up the stunning views.
DWIGHT NADIG/GETTY IMAGES ©

93
STEVE DUNWELL/GETTY IMAGES ©

1. Zakim Bunker Hill Bridge (p53)
Zakim Bunker Hill Bridge over the Charles River.
JEAN-PIERRE LESCOURRET/GETTY IMAGES ©
2. Seaport District (p133)

Dining at waterfront Liberty Wharf.
3. Harborside Boston (p85)
View of Boston Harbor and skyline.
4. Charles River (p110)
Sailing on the Charles River.
5. Boston on the Water (p85)
Boston’s magnificent waterfront skyline.
DWIGHT NADIG/GETTY IMAGES ©
94
South End & Chinatown

SOUTH END | CHINATOWN | THEATER DISTRICT | LEATHER DISTRICT

1 Hitting Chinatown 3 Packing into Wally’s 5 Dressing to the nines
(p99) for pork buns, dump- Café (p102) for old-time jazz and going out for a night
lings and other dim sum and blues. in the Theater District,
delights. whether for comedy at the
4 Sampling the stylish Wilbur Theatre (p103),
2 Browsing at the SoWa vintage threads at Bobby opera at the Shubert Thea-
Open Market (p103) and from Boston (p103). tre (p103) or dance at the
SoWa Vintage Market Wang Theatre (p103).
(p104) followed by Sunday
brunch in the South End.
1 1
1 1
Boylston S
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e Garden CHINATOWN
Char
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0.25 miles
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For more detail of this area see Map p240 and p242A
95
Lonely Planet’s
Explore South End & Chinatown Top Tip
Four side-by-side neighborhoods are home to Boston’s Budget travelers will find
lively theater scene, hip-hop-happening nightclubs Boston’s best restaurant
and its best international and contemporary dining. bargains in Chinatown at
Once downtrodden, the South End was claimed and lunchtime. Go straight to
cleaned up by the gay community, and now everyone Kneeland St to take advan-
wants to live there. And why not? The neighborhood tage of amazing lunch spe-
boasts the country’s largest concentration of Victorian cials. Chow down on soup
row houses, the city’s most innovative and exciting op- and a main course for less
tions for dining out, and a vibrant art scene. than $10 – bargain!
Although tiny by New York standards, Boston’s Theat-
er District has long served as a pre-Broadway staging
area. Many landmark theaters have received facelifts Best Places
in recent years, and their colorful marquees and posh
5 to Eat
patrons make for a festive night out on the town. The ¨¨ O Ya (p101)
Theater District is also Boston’s club hub. ¨¨ Toro (p97)
Nearby, Chinatown is overflowing with ethnic restau-
¨¨ Gourmet Dumpling
rants, live-poultry and fresh-produce markets, teahouses
House (p99)
and textile shops. As well as the Chinese, this tight-knit
¨¨ Q Restaurant (p100)
community also includes Cambodians, Vietnamese and
Laotians. Chinatown is a popular stop for lunch, a pre- ¨¨ B&G Oysters (p97)
theater dinner or a post-clubbing munch. For reviews, see p96 A
East of Chinatown, the Leather District is a pocket of
uniform brick buildings that also shelters some fine res-
taurants. In all four neighborhoods, there is a dearth of Best Places
traditional ‘sights’ to see, but there is a superabundance 6 to Drink
of eating and entertainment options.
So u th E n d & C h i n atow n
¨¨ Gallows (p101)
¨¨ Beehive (p101)
Local Life ¨¨ Delux Café (p101)
¨ First Fridays On the first Friday of the month, get For reviews, see p101 A
thee to the open studios at SoWa Artists Guild (p96) to
chat with the resident creatives.
Best Places
¨ Hang-outs Southenders hang out at Delux Café
(p101) and Franklin Café (p97).
1 to Dance
¨ Chinese Chess Local residents congregate in the ¨¨ Whisky Saigon (p102)
shadow of the Chinatown Gate (p96) for fierce chess ¨¨ Tunnel (p102)
competitions and friendly Cantonese chatter. ¨¨ Candibar (p102)
¨¨ Emerald Lounge (p102)

¨ Metro For the South End, take the orange line to
Back Bay station or New England Medical Center
station. Chinatown is served by its eponymous station,
also on the orange line. The green-line Boylston station
is handy for the Theater District, while the Leather
District is easiest to access from the red-line South
Station.
¨ Bus Good for the South End, the silver-line bus
runs down Washington St from South Station (SL4) or
Downtown Crossing (SL5).
96
1 SIGHTS SOWA ART WALK
SoWa Art Walk (www.sowaartwalk.

1 South End com; h11am-6pm, 1st Sun in May; YNew
England Medical Center) There’s more
SOWA ARTISTS GUILD GALLERY
to SoWa than Open Markets and Open
Map p240 (www.sowaartistsguild.com; 450 Har-
Studios. The biggest event of the year
rison Ave; h5-9pm 1st Fri of month; gSL4 or SL5,
is the annual SoWa Art Walk, which
YNew England Medical Center) The brick-and-
draws thousands of visitors (and
beam buildings along Harrison Ave were
visiting artists) to the neighborhood.
originally used to manufacture goods rang-
Many artists (in the Artists Guild and
ing from canned food to pianos. Now, these
elsewhere) open their studios, while
factories turn out paintings and sculptures
others set up booths at the outdoor art
instead. The SoWa Artists Guild houses
market. Local galleries also get in on
about 70 artist studios and more than a
the festive event.
dozen galleries.This is the epicenter of the
South End art district. There is a SoWa
Open Studios event on the first Friday of
every month, while many artists also wel- 5 EATING
come visitors during the SoWa Sundays
(www.sowasundays.com; Harrison Ave; h10am-
4pm Sun May-Oct). 5 South End
CATHEDRAL OF THE BLUNCH SANDWICHES $
HOLY CROSS CHURCH
Map p240 (www.eatblunch.com; 59 E Spring-
Map p240 (www.holycrossboston.com; 1400 field St; sandwiches $5-10; h8am-3pm Mon-
Washington St; hservice 9am Mon-Sat, 8am & Fri, 9am-3pm Sat; v ; YMassachusetts Ave)
11:30am Sun; gSL4 or SL5, YBack Bay) When This is a tiny place with counter service,
So u th E n d & C h i n atow n S ights
this neo-Gothic cathedral was built in 1875, blackboard menu and a-MAZ-ing choco-
it was America’s largest Catholic cathedral, late chip cookies. The sandwiches are also
and as big as London’s Westminster Abbey. delish, especially the eggs-ellent fluffy
It serves as the main cathedral for the arch- breakfast sandwiches, which are available
diocese of Boston and the seat of the arch- all day long.
bishop. The exquisite rose window features
King David playing his harp, while the rest PICCO PIZZA $
of the cross-shaped building is peppered
Map p240 (www.piccorestaurant.com; 513 Tre-
with stained-glass windows.
mont St; mains $10-15; h11am-10pm Sun-Wed, to
11pm Thu-Sat; Wv c; YBack Bay) The crust
of a Picco pizza undergoes a two-day pro-
1 Chinatown cess of cold fermentation before it goes into
the oven and then into your mouth. The re-
CHINATOWN GATE LANDMARK
sult is a thin crust with substantial texture
Map p242 (cnr Beach St & Surface Rd; YChina-
and rich flavor. You can add toppings to
town) The official entrance to Chinatown is
create your own pie.
the decorative gate, or paifong, a gift from
the city of Taipei. It is symbolic – not only as
MIKE’S CITY DINER DINER $
an entryway for guests visiting Chinatown,
but also as an entryway for immigrants Map p240 (www.mikescitydiner.com; 1714
who are still settling here, as they come to Washington St; mains $6-12; h 6am-3pm; c ;
establish relationships and put down roots g SL4 or SL5, Y Massachusetts Ave) Start the
in their newly claimed home. Surrounding day with a big breakfast of eggs, bacon,
the gate and anchoring the southern end toast and other old-fashioned goodness,
of the Rose Kennedy Greenway is the new topped with a bottomless cup of coffee.
Chinatown Park. A bamboo-lined walkway If you need to refuel at lunchtime, go for
runs through the modern gardens. The classics such as meatloaf and mashed po-
plaza is often populated by local residents tatoes or fried chicken and biscuits. Ser-
engaged in Xiangqi (Chinese chess). vice is friendly and fast.
97
FRANKLIN CAFÉ AMERICAN $$ 3pm Sat & Sun, 5-11pm daily; p v ; gSL4 or
Map p240 (www.franklincafe.com; 278 Shawmut SL5, YNew England Medical Center) Gaslight
Ave; mains $15-20; h5pm-2am; v; gSL4 or is the friendly and affordable ‘brasserie
SL5, YBack Bay) The Franklin is probably on the corner’ that we all wish we had in
the South End’s longest-standing favorite our own neighborhood. Mosaic tiles, wood-
neighborhood joint – and that’s saying beam ceilings and cozy booths set up the
something in this restaurant-rich neigh- comfortable, convivial atmosphere, which
borhood. It’s at once friendly and hip. The is enhanced by classic French fare and an
menu is New American comfort food pre- excellent selection of wines by the glass.
pared by a gourmet chef: surely turkey
meatloaf with fig gravy and chive mashed SOUTH END BUTTERY BAKERY, CAFE $$
potatoes does a body good. Map p240 (www.southendbuttery.com; 314 Shaw-
mut Ave; mains café $4-8, brunch $10-19, dinner
TORO TAPAS $$
$15-22; h6:30am-10pm; v c ; gSL4 or SL5,
Map p240 (%617-536-4300; www.toro-restau- YBack Bay) S This is a three-in-one affair,
rant.com; 1704 Washington St; tapas $10-15; with side-by-side café, restaurant and mar-
h noon-10pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri, 5pm-mid-
ket. The café has counter service, outdoor
night Sat, 10:30am-10pm Sun; v; gSL4 or SL5, seating and amazing cupcakes. The res-
YMassachusetts Ave) S True to its Spanish
taurant has exposed brick walls, sophisti-
spirit, this place is bursting with energy, cated food presentations and alcohol. And
from the open kitchen to the lively bar to the market has baked goods and prepared
the communal butcher-block tables. The
foods that you can take back to your hotel
menu features simple but sublime tapas –
and eat at midnight. Take your pick!
grilled chilies with sea salt, corn on the cob
dripping with lemon and butter, and delec- B&G OYSTERS SEAFOOD $$$
table, garlicky shrimp. For accompaniment, Map p240 (% 617-423-0550; www.band-
try rioja, sangria or any number of spiced- goysters.com; 550 Tremont St; single oysters
up mojitos and margaritas. $3, mains $25-35; h11:30am-11pm Mon-Sat,
So u th E n d & C h i n atow n E ating

COPPA ITALIAN $$
noon-10pm Sun; W; YBack Bay) Patrons flock
Map p240 (%617-391-0902; www.coppaboston. to this casually cool oyster bar to get in on
com; 253 Shawmut Ave; small plates $10-16, the raw delicacies offered by chef Barbara
pasta $16-27; hnoon-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri, Lynch. Sit inside at the marble bar or out-
5-11pm Sat, 3-10pm Sun; gSL4 or SL5, YBack side on the peaceful terrace, and indulge
Bay) This South End enoteca (wine bar) in the freshest oysters from local waters.
recreates an Italian dining experience with An extensive list of wines and a modest
authenticity and innovation, serving up menu of mains and appetizers (mostly
salumi (cured meats), antipasti, pasta and seafood) are ample accompaniment for
other delicious small plates. Wash it all the oysters.
down with an Aperol spritz and you might
be tricked into thinking you’re in Venice.
MYERS & CHANG ASIAN $$

SOUTH END
Map p240 (%617-542-5200; www.myersand- RESTAURANT DEALS
chang.com; 1145 Washington St; small plates $10-
18; h11:30am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; Dining in the South End can be pricey,
v ; gSL4 or SL5, YNew England Medical Center) but even hipsters appreciate a bargain.
This super-hip Asian spot blends Thai, ¨¨ Gaslight, Brasserie du Coin
Chinese and Vietnamese cuisines, which (p97) offers a 3-course prix-fixe din-
means delicious dumplings, spicy stir-fries ner ($30) from 5pm to 6pm.
and oodles of noodles. The kitchen staff ¨¨ Gaslight also has a prix-fixe brunch
does amazing things with a wok, and the ($10) all day Saturday and from 9am
menu of small plates allows you to sample a to 11am on Sunday.
wide selection of dishes. ¨¨ On Monday and Tuesday evenings
from 5pm to 10pm, head to Myers &
GASLIGHT, BRASSERIE DU COIN FRENCH $$ Chang (p97) for Cheap Date Night
Map p240 (%617-422-0224; www.gaslight560. ($45 for two people).
com; 560 Harrison Ave; mains $17-27; h9am-
98
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22 Local Life
South End Art Stroll
So u th E n d & C h i n atow n
Boston’s main art district is the South End. The artistic community has moved into
the once-barren area south of Washington St (now known as SoWa), converting old
warehouses into studios and galleries. For best results, do this walk on a Sunday in
summer or in the evening on the first Friday of the month (year-round).
1 SoWa Artists Guild Medical Center), dedicated to three-

This is the epicenter of the South End art dimensional art in all media.
scene, where artists have carved out studios
and gallery space from the former warehous- 4 Ars Libri
es and factories on Harrison Ave. The SoWa Ring the doorbell: Ars Libri (Map p240; www.
Artists Guild (p96) hosts an Open Studios arslibri.com; 500 Harrison Ave; h9am-6pm
event on the first Friday of every month and Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat; gSL4 or SL5, YNew
SoWa Sundays (p96) in summer months. England Medical Center) is an art bookstore
extraordinaire, specializing in rare and out-
2 Thayer Street of-print books. The former warehouse is
Bromfield Art Gallery (Map p240; www. filled from floor to ceiling with books on all
bromfieldgallery.com; 450 Harrison Ave; aspects and eras of art, architecture and
h noon-5pm Wed-Sat; Y New England Medical design. If you love books, and especially
Center) is a long-running artist-run gallery books about art, you’ll love Ars Libri.
that features New England artists. But there
are dozens of art venues in the former ware-
houses at 450 and 460 Harrison Ave.
5 The Gallows
Head over to Washington St and mosey into
3 Boston Sculptors Gallery the Gallows (p101). It’s hard to say whether
Peek into this unusual cooperative gallery, it’s a restaurant with amazing cocktails and
which has been going strong for 20-plus a cozy, crowded, convivial atmosphere; or
years. Three dozen local artists run the a pub with irresistible and innovative food.
innovative Boston Sculptors Gallery (Map Either way, it’s a fave among trendy, friendly
p240; www.bostonsculptors.com; 486 Harrison South Enders.
Ave; h noon-6pm Wed-Sun; YNew England
99
KITCHEN AMERICAN $$$
Map p240 (www.kitchenbostonmass.com; 560
STEVE DUNWELL/GETTY IMAGES ©
Tremont St; mains brunch $12-18, dinner $24-38;

h11am-3pm Thu-Sun & 5-10pm daily; YBack
Bay) Kitchen may be the only place in Bos-
ton that serves ‘supper.’ Cooking under the
tagline Old is New, this sweet spot offers
classic American fare with panache. This
is where you’ll find old-fashioned New Eng-
land dishes (pork and beans, lobster ther-
midor) that you’ll actually be tempted to
order – and be glad that you did.
Don’t miss the chance to eat doughnuts
for dessert. Quintessential Boston.
BUTCHER SHOP FRENCH, ITALIAN $$$

Map p240 (%617-423-4800; www.thebutcher-
shopboston.com; 552 Tremont St; petite char-
cuterie $17, mains lunch $15-25, dinner $21-59;
h noon-10am Sun & Mon, to 11pm Tue-Thu, to
midnight Fri & Sat; YBack Bay) Only in the
South End does the neighborhood butcher
shop double as an elegant eatery and wine
bar. The cases filled with tantalizing cuts
of meat, fresh foie gras and homemade sau-
SoWa Artists Guild sages give a glimpse of the ingredients and
provide the decoration at this bistro (not a
good place for vegetarians). There is a nice
selection of artisanal wines.

6 South End Buttery
If it’s too early for drinks and appetizers,
head up the street to the South End But-
tery (p97) for coffee and cupcakes. A
5 Chinatown
portion of revenue goes to a local animal Chinatown is overflowing with authentic
shelter, coffee drinks feature shade-grown restaurants (many open late-night), baker-
organic beans, and packaging materials ies and markets. It’s not just Chinese, but
are made from recycled paper. Now that also Vietnamese, Japanese, Korean, Thai,
your conscience is eased, indulge! Malaysian and more. This is some of Bos-
ton’s best budget eating.
7 Union Park
Continue up Union Park St to get a GOURMET
glimpse of the neighborhood’s charming DUMPLING HOUSE CHINESE, TAIWANESE $
Victorian rowhouses, clustered around
Map p242 (52 Beach St; dumplings $2-8, mains
a tree-lined, fountain-filled park. This is
$10-15; h11am-1am; v; YChinatown) Xiao
South End architecture at its best.
long bao. That’s all the Chinese you need to
8 Boston Center for the Arts know to take advantage of the specialty at
Finish your walk at the Boston Center for the Gourmet Dumpling House (or GDH, as
the Arts, home of the Mills Gallery (Map it is fondly called). They are Shanghai soup
p240; www.bcaonline.org; 539 Tremont St; dumplings, of course, and they are fresh,
h noon-5pm Wed & Sun, to 9pm Thu-Sat; doughy and delicious. The menu offers
Y Back Bay) This venue for visual arts plenty of other options, including scrump-
hosts cutting-edge art exhibits, as well as tious crispy scallion pancakes. Come early
artist and curator talks. Exhibits feature or be prepared to wait.
established and emerging artists from
TAIWAN CAFE TAIWANESE $
Boston and around the country.
Map p242 (34 Oxford St; mains lunch $8, dinner
$10-15; h11am-1am; v; YChinatown) Taiwan
Cafe is a few steps off the main drag, so
100
you might not have to wait quite as long for to eat. Chances are they will direct you to
the excellent xiao long bao and other Tai- the Peach Farm, an old-school Chinatown
wanese specialties. Regulars rave about the haunt that has been around for ages.
roast beef scallion pancakes.
oQ RESTAURANT ASIAN $$
XINH XINH VIETNAMESE $ Map p242 (www.thequsa.com; 660 Washington
Map p242 (7 Beach St; mains $8-12; h10am- St; hot pot $12-25; h11:30am-11pm Sun-Thu, to
10pm; v; YChinatown) Wins the award for 1am Fri & Sat; Wv c; YChinatown) Hip and
Boston’s favorite pho (pronounced ‘fuh’), hungry patrons flock to this trendy hot-pot
the sometimes exotic, always fragrant and spot in Chinatown. Q is unusual for its spa-
flavorful Vietnamese noodle soup. These cious interior and upscale atmosphere, but
hot, hearty meals come in big bowls and it’s also a unique, interactive eating experi-
warm you from the inside out. ence. Choose your broth, choose your mor-
sels of meat and veggies, cook them in the
AVANA SUSHI SUSHI $ pot and eat them as you go.
Map p242 (www.avanasushi.com; 42 Beach St;
SHŌJŌ ASIAN FUSION $$
sushi & sashimi $4-7; h11am-10pm; YChinatown)
This place is essentially unmarked from Map p242 (www.shojoboston.com; 9a Tyler St;
the street, tucked into a tiny, cramped food mains $18-26; h5:30-11pm Mon-Wed, 11am-11pm
court. There’s only a handful of seats, and Thu, 11am-2am Fri & Sat; YChinatown) Clean,
the tableware is all plastic and paper. But contemporary and super cool, Shojo is
the sushi is fresh, delicious and affordable. unique in Chinatown for its trendy vibe.
The menu picks and chooses from all over
MY THAI VEGAN CAFÉ THAI $ Asia (and beyond), effortlessly blending dis-
Map p242 (3 Beach St; mains $8-15; h11am- parate elements into original, enticing fare.
10pm; v; YChinatown) This welcoming café
KAZE SHABU SHABU ASIAN $$
is up a sketchy staircase, tucked into a sun-
Map p236 (www.kazeshabushabu.com; 1 Harri-
lit second-story space. It’s an animal-free
son Ave; mains $15-22; h11:30am-1am Sun-Thu,
zone – but good enough that meat-eaters
to 2am Fri & Sat; v c) Offering a hands-on

will enjoy eating here, too. The menu has approach to dinner, ‘Shabu-shabu’ is also
a Thai twist, offering noodle soups, dump- known as hot-pot cuisine, where you cook
lings, excellent spring rolls and pad thai. your meal at your table in a big family-style
pot. Choose from a variety of seafood, poul-
WINSOR DIM SUM CAFE DIM SUM $
try and meats, fresh vegetables and an ar-
Map p242 (10 Tyler St; items $2-8; h9am-10pm;
ray of homemade broths, then cook it up the
v ; YChinatown) The downside is that there
way you like it.
are no pushcarts to choose your food from –
the place is so small the pushcarts would
have nowhere to go. Instead you have to pre- 5 Theater District
order from a menu with photographs. The
upside is that the food is freshly made to MIKE & PATTY’S SANDWICHES $
order and it is delicious. Shrimp dumplings Map p242 (www.mikeandpattys.com; 12 Church
and steamed pork buns are recommended. St; sandwiches $7-9; h7:30am-2pm Wed-Sun;
v ; YNew England Medical Center or Arlington)
CAFÉ DE LULU CHINESE $ Tucked away in Bay Village, this tiny gem
Map p242 (www.cafe-de-lulu.com; 42 Beach St; of a corner sandwich shop does amazing
mains $6-10; h8am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri things between two slices of bread. There’s
& Sat; W; YChinatown) Tucked into a tiny only eight options and they’re all pretty
basement. Food served on plastic dishes. perfect, but the hands-down favorite is the
Hong Kong soap operas on the tube. With Fancy (fried egg, cheddar cheese, bacon and
over 200 menu items, you’re bound to find avocado on multigrain).
something to sate you.
FINALE DESSERTERIE CAFE $
PEACH FARM CHINESE, SEAFOOD $ Map p244 (www.finaledesserts.com; 1 Columbus
Map p242 (4 Tyler St; mains $7-18; h11am-3am; Ave; desserts $9-14; h11am-midnight; v; YAr-
v ; YChinatown) Popular wisdom says that if lington) Choose from a long list of tempt-
you don’t know where to eat in Chinatown, ing treats, from crème brûlée to chocolate
you should ask some locals where they like soufflé, and enjoy them with coffee, wine or
101
port. Mirrors over the pastry chefs’ work- specifically to the fellas has dwindled in
station allow patrons to watch their magic. recent years. In any case, both gays and
lesbians are usually well represented at any
BISTRO DU MIDI FRENCH $$ place in the ’ hood.
Map p244 (%617-426-7878; www.bistrodumidi.
com; 272 Boylston St; mains cafe $12-24, dining oGALLOWS PUB
room $24-37; hcafe 11am-10pm Sun-Wed, to Map p240 (www.thegallowsboston.com; 1395
11pm Thu-Sat, dining room 5-10pm; YArlington) Washington St; h5pm-midnight Mon-Wed,
The upstairs dining room is exquisite, but 11:30am-midnight Thu-Sat, 11am-11pm Sun;
the downstairs café exudes warmth and ca- gSL4 or SL5, YNew England Medical Center) It’s
maraderie, inviting casual callers to linger only four years old, but already a South End
over wine and snacks. The Provençal fare favorite. The dark woody interior is inviting
is artfully presented and simply delicious. and the bartenders are truly talented. The
TROQUET FRENCH $$$
gastropub grub includes such interesting
fare as the ‘carpet burger’ topped with fried
Map p234 (%617-695-9463; www.troquetboston.
oysters and pickles, the enticing Scotch egg,
com; 140 Boylston St; mains $28-40; YBoylston)
Overlooking the Boston Common, this so- and scrumptious vegetarian poutine. Solid
phisticated French restaurant has an un- beer selection, delectable cocktails.
beatable location and a highly lauded wine
program, including an amazing menu of
oBEEHIVE COCKTAIL BAR
wines by the glass for better sampling. Map p240 (%617-423-0069; www.beehivebos-
ton.com; 541 Tremont St; h5pm-1am Mon-Wed,
to 2am Thu & Fri, 10am-2am Sat & Sun; YBack
Bay) The Beehive has transformed the base-
5 Leather District ment of the Boston Center for the Arts into
SOUTH STREET DINER DINER $ a 1920s Paris jazz club. This place is more
Map p242 (www.southstreetdiner.com; 178 Knee- about the scene than the music, which is
land St; mains $6-12; h24hr; v; YSouth Sta- often provided by students from Berklee
College of Music.
So u th E n d & C h i n atow n D rinking & N ightlife

tion) A divey diner that does what a diner
is supposed to do – that is, serve bacon and
DELUX CAFÉ DIVE BAR
eggs and burgers and fries, at any time of
the day or night. Plonk yourself into a vinyl- Map p240 (%617-338-5258; 100 Chandler St;
h5pm-1am Mon-Sat; YBack Bay) The South
upholstered booth and let the s ass‑talking
waitstaff satisfy your midnight munchies. End’s best – and perhaps only – hipster dive
bar. Now under new ownership, this long-
oO YA SUSHI $$$ standing favorite has been cleaned up (a lit-
Map p242 (%617-654-9900; www.oyarestaurant- tle), but the decor is still mainly Christmas
boston.com; 9 East St; nigiri & sashimi pieces $12- lights and the atmosphere is still totally
28; h5-10pm Tue-Sat; v; YSouth Station) Who laid-back. The kitchen still turns out an in-
knew that raw fish could be so exciting? credible grilled cheese sandwich, and they
Each piece of nigiri or sashimi is dripped still don’t accept credit cards.
with something unexpected but exquisite,
ranging from honey truffle sauce to banana
pepper mousse. Shrimp tempura is topped 6 Chinatown
with a bacon truffle emulsion. Foie gras is
drizzled in balsamic chocolate kabayaki. JACOB WIRTH BEER HALL
Map p242 (%617-338-8586; www.jacobwirth.
com; 31-37 Stuart St; h11:30am-9:30pm Sun-
DRINKING &
6 NIGHTLIFE
Wed, to 10:30pm Thu, to 12:30am Fri & Sat; c;
YBoylston) Boston’s second-oldest eatery
is this atmospheric Bavarian beer hall.
The menu features Wiener schnitzel, sau-
6 South End erbraten, potato pancakes and pork chops
(mains $16 to $24), but the highlight is the
This neighborhood contains some of Bos- beer – almost 30 different drafts, including
ton’s hippest bars. The South End serves as Jake’s House Lager and Jake’s Special Dark.
home base for much of Boston’s gay com- From Thursday to Sunday (from 8pm), Jake
munity, but the number of spots catering hosts a sing-along that rouses the haus.
102
INTERMISSION TAVERN PUB YBoylston) You have to navigate a maze to
Map p242 (www.intermissiontavern.com; 228 get into this place, but once you do, you’ll
Tremont St; h11am-2am; YBoylston) Enter find an excellent club that’s at once upscale
beneath the masks of Comedy and Tragedy and unpretentious. People of all ages and
into the dimly lit interior, where show post- sizes hang out in the shiny, green lounge
ers adorn the brick walls. This tiny, theatri- in the Revere Hotel. For a change, there’s
cally themed tavern is a cozy, casual spot plenty of seating.
for a drink or a bite to eat before or after
a show. CANDIBAR CLUB
Map p242 (www.candibarboston.com; 271 Trem-
ont St; cover $10-20; h10pm-2am Fri-Sun; YNew
6 Theater District England Medical Center) Welcome to the fu-
ture, where the walls and ceiling are cov-
STAGE NIGHTCLUB CLUB ered with multicolored lights that throb
Map p242 (www.stagenightclub.com; 19 Boylston in time with the music. A state-of-the-art
Pl; h9pm-2am Fri & Sat; YBoylston) Here’s sound system gets you moving on the dance
something new and different. Stage is a floor. And when you need a break, you can
Vaudeville-themed club that hosts a non- find a seat on the shapely plastic furniture.
stop show of burlesque dancers, jugglers, In a word, surreal.
aerialists, acrobats and more, unfolding on
four stages and all around you. Remember
to dress up to go on Stage. 6 Leather District
WHISKY SAIGON CLUB LES ZYGOMATES WINE BAR
Map p234 (www.whiskysaigon.com; 116 Boylston Map p242 (www.winebar.com; 129 South St;
St; cover free-$15; h10pm-2am Fri & Sat; h11:30am-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri, 5:30-11pm
YBoylston) Whisky Saigon is undoubtedly Sat; YSouth Station) This late-night Parisian
the hottest dance spot in Boston at the time bistro serves up live jazz alongside classic
of writing, and with good reason. Who can but contemporary French cuisine. The cli-
So u th E n d & C h i n atow n E ntertainment
resist bubbles and fog on the dance floor? entele is sophisticated but not stuffy. Din-
It’s classy, with upscale decor, good looking ner is pricey, but the tempting selection of
patrons and top-notch sound system. starters and cocktails make it a perfect pre-
or post-theater spot.
TUNNEL CLUB
Map p242 (www.tunnelboston.com; 100 Stuart
St; cover $10-20; h9:30pm-2am Tue & Thu-Sat;
YBoylston) This is a slick lounge – albeit a
3 ENTERTAINMENT
tiny one – in the basement of the W hotel. oWALLY’S CAFÉ BLUES, JAZZ
The ‘tunnel’ is the effect of the LED lights Map p240 (www.wallyscafe.com; 427 Massachu-
on the ceiling, which lead the way through setts Ave; hnoon-2am; YMassachusetts Ave)
the chic lounge and back to the dance floor. When Wally’s opened in 1947, Barbadian
Tunnel is the rare nightclub where bounc- immigrant Joseph Walcott became the first
ers and bartenders are actually friendly. African American to own a nightclub in
New England. Old-school, gritty and small,
EMERALD LOUNGE LOUNGE, CLUB it still attracts a racially diverse crowd to
Map p242 (www.emeraldnightlife.com; 200 Stu- hear jammin’ jazz music 365 days a year.
art St; cover free-$20; h10pm-2am Wed-Sun; Wally’s is the kind of place where someone
on stage will recognize a high-caliber out-
of-town musician in the crowd and con-
NIGHTCLUB GUEST LISTS vince them to play.
If you plan to hit any nightclubs in the
BOSTON CENTER FOR THE ARTS THEATER
Theater District (or anywhere), defi-
Map p240 (www.bcaonline.org; 539 Tremont St;
nitely go online and get yourself on the
YBack Bay) There’s rarely a dull moment at
guest list. This normally will ensure
the BCA, which serves as a nexus for excel-
entry, instead of leaving it to the whims
lent small theater productions. Each year
of the bouncer. Sometimes it will get
over 20 companies present more than 45
you a reduced cover charge.
separate productions, from comedies and
103
drama to modern dance and musicals. The
BCA occupies a complex comprising several COMPANY ONE
buildings, including a cyclorama from 1884
built to display panoramic paintings, a for- Company One (Map p240; www.compa-
mer organ factory and the Mills Gallery. nyone.org; 539 Tremont St; YBack Bay) is
a radical theater company striving to
CHARLES PLAYHOUSE THEATER be at the ‘intersection of art and social
Map p242 (74 Warrenton St; YBoylston) Built change’ by offering provocative perfor-
in 1839, the Charles Playhouse was origi- mances and fostering socially engaged
nally a speakeasy, later a jazz club and fi- artists. Critics are crazy for C1, which
nally a theater. With its backstreet location has racked up a slew of awards and
and underground ambience, it has always nominations for its innovative produc-
been home to offbeat and unusual perfor- tions. Most shows are performed in the
mances. Nowadays, that means the ever- Boston Center for the Arts theaters.
popular, indefinable Blue Man Group (www.
blueman.com; 74 Warrenton St; tickets $60-120;
YBoylston) and the long-running improv is the place to see the Boston Lyric Opera
comedy show Shear Madness (Map p242; (Map p242; www.blo.org).
%617-426-5225; www.shearmadness.com; 74
JACQUES CABARET GAY, CABARET
Warrenton St; admission $50; YBoylston).
Map p242 (www.jacques-cabaret.com; 79 Broad-
CUTLER MAJESTIC THEATRE THEATER, DANCE way; admission $7-10; h11am-midnight, show
Map p242 (%617-824-8000; www.cutlermajes- times vary; YArlington) Head to this dive on
tic.org; 219 Tremont St; YBoylston) This beau- a dark side street to experience the gay cul-
tiful beaux-arts-style opera house dates to ture of the South End before gentrification
1903. One century after its construction, took over. A shaded-lamp and pool-table
the theater was sumptuously renovated kind of place, Jacques hosts outstanding
and reopened by Emerson College. Today, low-budget drag shows every night. We
the performances that take place here are think Mizery is the cat’s pyjamas.
So u th E n d & C h i n atow n S hopping

diverse, including seasonal celebrations.
WILBUR THEATRE COMEDY

Map p242 (www.thewilburtheatre.com; 246 Trem-
7 SHOPPING
ont St; tickets $20-50; YBoylston) The colonial The South End is the only neighborhood
Wilbur Theatre dates to 1914, and over the in Boston that has more boutiques for
years has hosted many prominent theatri- men than women. If you are a straight guy
cal productions. These days it is Boston’s in need of a queer eye, take a walk to the
premier comedy club. South End. SoWa is also home to Boston’s
edgiest, up-and-coming art scene.
CITI PERFORMING ARTS
CENTER MUSIC, DANCE
SOWA OPEN MARKET HANDICRAFTS, MARKET
Map p242 (%617-482-9393; www.citicenter.org; Map p240 (www.newenglandopenmarkets.com;

270 Tremont St; YBoylston) Boston’s biggest Thayer St; h10am-4pm Sun May-Oct; gSL4 or
music and dance venue, the Citi Performing SL5, YNew England Medical Center) Part flea
Arts Center is comprised of two theaters market and part artists’ market, this weekly
that face off across Tremont St. The main outdoor event is a fabulous opportunity for
stage is the enormous, opulent Wang Thea- strolling, shopping and people-watching.
tre, built in 1925. The Wang hosts extrava- More than 100 vendors set up shop under
gant music and modern dance productions, white tents. It’s never the same two weeks
as well as occasional giant-screen movies in a row, but there’s always plenty of arts
(the center was built as a movie palace). and crafts, as well as edgier art, vintage
clothing, jewelry, local farm produce and
SHUBERT THEATRE OPERA homemade sweets.
Map p242 (www.citicenter.org; 265 Tremont St;
YBoylston) With 1600 seats, the Shubert is
oBOBBY FROM BOSTON CLOTHING, VINTAGE
smaller and more intimate than some of the Map p240 (19 Thayer St; hnoon-6pm Mon-Sat;
other Theater District venues, thus earning gSL4 or SL5, YNew England Medical Center)
the moniker ‘Little Princess.’ The Shubert Bobby is one of Boston’s coolest cats. Men
104
from all over the greater Boston area come UNIFORM CLOTHING
to the South End to peruse Bobby’s amaz- Map p240 (www.uniformboston.com; 511 Tremont
ing selection of classic clothing from anoth- St; h11am-8pm Tue-Sat, noon-5pm Sun; YBack
er era. Smoking jackets, bow ties, bomber Bay) With its cool collection of men’s casual
jackets and more. wear, Uniform caters to all the metrosexu-
als in this hipster ’hood. Guys leave this
OLIVES & GRACE GIFTS place decked out in designers like Ben Sher-
Map p240 (www.olivesandgrace.com; 623 Tre- man, with Freitag bag slung over shoulder.
mont St; h10am-7pm; YBack Bay) This little
LEKKER HOME HOMEWARES
shoebox of a store offers an eclectic array of
Map p240 (www.lekkerhome.com; 1313 Washing-
gift items made with love and thoughtful-
ton St; h10am-6pm Mon-Wed & Sat, to 7pm Thu &
ness by artisans. The most enticing items Fri, noon-5pm Sun; gSL4 or SL5, YTufts Medical
are the foodstuffs, including chocolate bars, Center) If you are into Scandinavian design,
hot sauces, raw honey, salt water taffy and get into Lekker. Look for crisp, clean lines,
beef jerky. attractive yet practical gadgets, stainless
steel and monochrome color patterns and
SAULT NEW ENGLAND CLOTHING, GIFTS plenty of modern chic.
Map p240 (www.saultne.com; 577 Tremont St;
h11am-7pm Tue-Sun; YBack Bay) Blending
SPORTS &
prepster and hipster, rustic and chic, this
little basement boutique packs in a lot of 2 ACTIVITIES
intriguing stuff. The eclectic mix runs the
gamut from new and vintage clothing to CHINATOWN MARKET TOUR WALKING TOUR
coffee-table books and terrariums. (%617-523-6032; www.bostonfoodtours.com;

tour $65; h9:30am-1pm Thu & Sat) Is it a walk-
SOWA VINTAGE MARKET MARKET, VINTAGE ing tour or a cooking class? Let local chef
Map p240 (www.sowavintagemarket.com; 460 Jim Becker guide you through the crowded,
Harrison Ave; h10am-4pm Sun, also 5-9pm first chaotic streets of Chinatown, with stops at
So u th E n d & C h i n atow n S ports & A ctivities
Fri of month; gSL4 or SL5, YNew England Medi- a produce market, a Chinese bakery, a herb-
cal Center) Where the Open Market is for al pharmacy and a traditional teahouse,
cool hand-made stuff, the Vintage Market with plenty of shopping and cooking tips.
is for cool old stuff. It’s like an indoor flea
EXHALE SPA SPA, YOGA
market, with dozens of vendors selling
clothes, furniture, posters, housewares and Map p244 (%617-532-7000; www.exhalespa.
loads of other trash and treasure. com; 28 Arlington St; h6am-9pm Mon-Fri, 8am-
8pm Sat & Sun; YArlington) If you are waiting
GRACIE FINN GIFTS
to exhale, now you can do it at this spa for
Map p240 (www.graciefinn.com; 18 Union Park St;
mind and body. Offering up to 10 classes a
h10am-6pm; YBack Bay) This is essentially
day, Exhale focuses on core fusion, barre
a stationery store, with contemporary, cool, and yoga basics. Exhale also offers acu-
hand-pressed cards. There’s the never-end- puncture, nutrition consulting and other
ing array of Aunt Sadie’s scented candles healing services.
(all-time bestseller: Tree in a Can), a great
GRUB STREET COURSE
selection of tote bags, funny magnets, and
other things you didn’t know you needed. Map p234 (www.grubstreet.org; 160 Boylston St;
h9am-5pm Mon-Fri; YBoylston) Designed to
offer a supportive environment for would-
CALAMUS BOOKSTORE BOOKS
be writers, Grub Street sponsors long-term
Map p242 (www.calamusbooks.com; 92 South
writing workshops, seminars and count-
St; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun;
less readings and other events.
YSouth Station) The Greek deity Calamus
was transformed with grief into a reed BOSTON CENTER FOR ADULT
when his lover drowned. The character in- EDUCATION COURSE
spired Walt Whitman’s ‘Calamus’ poems,
Map p242 (www.bcae.org; 122 Arlington St;
which celebrate gay love. And now, he has
h9am-5pm Mon-Fri; YArlington) The Boston
inspired Boston’s biggest and best GLBT
Center for Adult Education offers every-
bookstore.
thing from historical tours to writing class-
es to massage courses for couples.
105
Back Bay

1 Admiring Boston’s most 2 Strolling, cycling or 4 Feeling yourself at the
evocative and archetypal running along the Charles center of the world in the
architecture in Copley Sq, River Esplanade (p110). unusual Mapparium (p111).
with Trinity Church (p107)
reflecting in the facade of 3 Window shopping and 5 Indulging in afternoon
the John Hancock Tower gallery hopping on tea at Courtyard (p112) in
(p110) at one end, and the Newbury St (p114). the BPL.
Boston Public Library
(p107) anchoring the other
end.
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# 00 500 m
0.25 miles

106
Lonely Planet’s
Top Tip Explore Back Bay
Visit BosTix (www.bostix.org; Back Bay is not as old as some other Boston neighbor-
h10am-6pm Tue-Sat, 11am- hoods, nor is it as historically significant. But thanks to
4pm Sun) on Copley Sq for magnificent Victorian brownstones and high-minded
same-day, half-price tickets civic plazas, it is certainly among the loveliest – and a
to local theater, comedy and required destination for all Boston visitors.
Bac k Bay
music events. Copley Sq represents the best of Back Bay architec-

ture, as it gracefully blends disparate elements such as
the Renaissance Revival Boston Public Library, the Rich-
Best Places ardsonian Romanesque Trinity Church and the modern-
5 to Eat ist John Hancock Tower. Copley Sq should be your first
¨¨ Courtyard (p112) stop in Back Bay, good for whiling away an hour or even
¨¨ Lolita Cocina (p112)
a day.
After admiring the architecture and browsing the
¨¨ Piattini (p112)
books, you are perfectly placed for an afternoon of win-
¨¨ L’Espalier (p113)
dow shopping or gallery hopping. Swanky Newbury St
¨¨ Douzo (p113) is famous among fashion mavens, art aficionados and
For reviews, see p111 A music lovers, for it is lined with boutiques and galleries
(and one legendary music store).
Not surprisingly, this bustling retail and residential
Best Places center is also a drinking and dining wonderland, with
6 to Drink sidewalk cafes, trendy bars and chic restaurants on near-
ly every block. It’s not quite the same slick scene as the
¨¨ Sofá Café (p113) trendsetting South End, but there are still places to see
¨¨ Corner Tavern (p113) and be seen in Back Bay.
¨¨ Bukowski Tavern (p113)
¨¨ Brahmin (p113)

Local Life
¨ Hang-outs It doesn’t get more local than the Corner
Tavern (p113).
Best ¨ Outdoors Perfect for picnic lunches and summertime
1 Galleries lounging, the Charles River Esplanade (p110) is Boston’s
¨¨ Gallery Naga (p110) backyard.
¨¨ Barbara Krakow Gallery
(p110)
¨¨ Copley Society of Art Getting There & Away
(p110)
¨ Metro The main branch of the green line runs the
¨¨ Alpha Gallery (p110)
length of Boylston St, with stops at Arlington near the
¨¨ Society of Arts & Crafts Public Garden, Copley at Copley Sq and Hynes at Mass
(p115) Ave. The green E-line branch follows along Huntington
For reviews, see p110 A Ave to Prudential and Symphony.
TRINITY CHURCH
A masterpiece of American architecture, Trinity Church DON’T MISS

is the country’s ultimate example of Richardsonian
Romanesque. The granite exterior, with a massive ¨¨ Sunlight streaming
portico and side cloister, uses sandstone in colorful through John La-
patterns. The interior is an awe-striking array of vibrant Farge’s stained-glass
murals and stained glass, most by artist John LaFarge, windows
who cooperated closely with architect Henry Hobson ¨¨ Free pipe organ
Richardson to create an integrated composition of concerts on Fridays at
shapes, colors and textures. Free architectural tours 12:15pm, from
are offered following Sunday service at 11:15am. September to June
The footprint of Trinity Church is a Greek cross, with ¨¨ Reflection of Trinity
chancel, nave and transepts surrounding the central Church in the facade
square. The wide-open interior was a radical departure of the John Hancock
from traditional Episcopal architecture, but it embodies the Tower
democratic spirit of the congregation in the 1870s.
The walls of the great central tower are covered by two
tiers of murals, soaring more than 100ft. Prior to this com- PRACTICALITIES
mission, LaFarge did not have experience with mural paint- ¨¨ www.trinitychurch
ing on this scale. The result – thousands of square feet of boston.org
exquisite, jewel-toned encaustic paintings – established his
¨¨ 206 Clarendon St
authority as the father of the American mural movement.
The 33 stained-glass windows in the church represent ¨¨ adult/child $7/free
diverse styles: most of them were executed by different ¨¨ h9am-4:30pm Mon,
glass workshops. The jewels of the church are the work of Fri & Sat, to 5:30pm
LaFarge, who was not commissioned until 1883. His win- Tue-Thu, 1-5pm Sun
dows are distinctive for their use of layered opalescent ¨¨ Y Copley
glass, resulting in an unprecedented richness of shades and
dimensions. LaFarge’s first commission was Christ in Maj-
esty, the spectacular three-panel clerestory window at the west end that is now considered
one of America’s finest examples of stained-glass art.
BOSTON PUBLIC LIBRARY
JULIEN HAUTCOEUR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Dating from 1852, the esteemed Boston Public Library DON’T MISS...
(BPL) was built as a ‘shrine of letters,’ lending credence
to Boston’s reputation as the Athens of America. The ¨¨ Mora and Saint-
old McKim building is notable for its magnificent Gaudens’ carving of
facade (inspired by Italian Renaissance palazzi) and Minerva, goddess of
exquisite interior art. Pick up a free brochure and take wisdom, on the central
a self-guided tour; alternatively, free guided tours keystone on the facade
depart from the entrance hall (times vary). ¨¨ Frieze of the
Prophets by John
Puvis de Chavannes Gallery Singer Sargent
From the main entrance, a marble staircase leads past ¨¨ Peaceful Italianate
Pierre Puvis de Chavannes’ inspirational murals. The art- courtyard
ist titled his composition The Muses of Inspiration Hail the
Spirit, the Harbinger of Light. The mural depicts poetry,
philosophy, history and science, which he considered ‘the
PRACTICALITIES
four great expressions of the human mind.’ ¨¨ www.bpl.org
Don’t miss the mighty lions posed on their pedestals, ¨¨ 700 Boylston St
carved by Saint-Gaudens to honor the Massachusetts Civil
¨¨ h9am-9pm Mon-
War infantries.
Thu, to 5pm Fri & Sat
Upstairs, at the entrance to Bates Hall, there is another
year-round, also 1-5pm
Puvis de Chavannes mural, also The Muses. Here, the nine
Sun Oct-May
muses from Greek mythology are honoring a male figure,
¨¨ Y Copley
the Genius of the Enlightenment.
Bates Hall
The staircase terminates at the splendid Bates Hall Reading Room, where even mundane
musings are elevated by the barrel-vaulted, 50ft coffered ceilings.
Bates Hall is named for Joshua Bates, the BPL’s original benefactor in 1852. After spend-
ing his childhood browsing in bookstores, Bates appreciated the potential for, and im-
portance of, self-education through reading. He donated $50,000 to the city of Boston,
109
with the stipulations that ‘the building shall be…an BPL EVENTS
ornament to the city, that there shall be a room for
100 to 150 persons to sit at reading tables, and that See the Boston Public
it be perfectly free to all.’ Library website for a
schedule of free events,
Abbey Room which range from au-
Bac k Bay B o st o n P u b l i c L i b r a r y
The Abbey Room is among the library’s most sump- thor talks to musical
tuous, with its oak wainscoting, marble flooring performances.
and elaborate fireplace. The room is named for the
author of the 1895 murals, which recowunt Sir Gala-
had’s Quest and Achievement of the Holy Grail.
The Boston Public
Library was the first
Elliott Room free municipal library
The two 2nd-floor lobbies borrow their artistic el- in the world, as well
ements from Pompeii and Venice, respectively. Off as being the first
the Venetian lobby, the relatively plain study room library to allow its
is named for painter John Elliott, who did the ceil- patrons to borrow
ing mural. The Triumph of Time depicts 12 angelic books and materials.
figures, representing the 12 hours on the clock, The BPL was also the
while the male figure in the cart is Father Time. He first library to estab-
is flanked on either side by the Hours of Life and lish a branch system,
Death. The 20 horses are the centuries since the when it opened a
birth of Christ. branch in East Bos-
ton in 1870 (and 20
Sargent Gallery more in subsequent
The pièce de résistance of the BPL artwork is on the years). And in 1895,
3rd floor, which features John Singer Sargent’s un- BPL became the first
finished Judaic and Christian murals entitled The library with a desig-
Triumph of Religion. nated children’s area.
The theme is surprising for an institution of secu-
lar learning. The mural traces the history of West-
ern religion from the primitive worship of pagan TOTS & TEENS &
gods to the foundation of the Law of Israel to the IN-BETWEENS
commencement of the Messianic Age with the birth
of Christ. Some scholars argue that the sequence de- The BPL offers loads
picts a progression toward religious subjectivity and of entertaining and
individualist spiritual pursuits. Others have inter- educational resources
preted that the artist portrayed Christianity as be- for kids and teenagers,
ing more evolved than Judaism. Most controversial including homework
was Sargent’s use of a strong and steadfast figure for help, book lists, movie
Church, in contrast with the weak and blindfolded nights and even video
figure for Synagogue. games. Of course there
A final painting of the Sermon on the Mount was is a dedicated children’s
intended for the vacant space above the stairwell; area, but older kids
the mural was never completed, due in part to the will want to hang out in
strong reaction from the Jewish community. When the fun and funky Teen
the installation was unveiled in 1919, critics called Lounge.
it anti-Semitic. Sargent (by all accounts, dismayed)
was unable to appease his critics.
The murals were largely (and perhaps intention-
ally) forgotten for the remainder of the century.
They were finally restored and unveiled in 1999.
1 10
1 SIGHTS William Ellery Channing preached here in

the early 19th century. (A statue in his hon-
or is across the street in the Public Garden.)
TRINITY CHURCH CHURCH
See p107. BARBARA KRAKOW GALLERY GALLERY
BOSTON PUBLIC LIBRARY LIBRARY

(www.barbarakrakowgallery.com; 10 Newbury
St; h10am-5:30pm Tue-Sat; YArlington) F
See p108
Established in 1964, this is one of Boston’s
Bac k Bay S i ghts
COMMONWEALTH AVENUE STREET most prominent galleries, with a catalogue

(YArlington, Copley or Hynes) The grandest of of artists that reads like something from a
Back Bay’s grand boulevards is Common- major museum. The gallery represents the
wealth Ave (more commonly Comm Ave). estates of Sol LeWitt and Fred Sandbeck,
Boston’s Champs Élysées, the dual-car- and also shows many others.
riageway connects the Public Garden with
COPLEY SOCIETY OF ART GALLERY
the Back Bay Fens, a green link in Olmsted’s
(CoSo; www.copleysociety.org; 158 Newbury St;
Emerald Necklace. The grassy mall is dot-
h11am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun; YCopley)
ted with grand elms and lined with stately
F Dating to 1879, CoSo is the country’s
brownstones. The eclectic array of public
oldest non-profit art association. With more
art honors – among others – a Civil War
than 500 members, the showings in the
hero, a First Lady, an abolitionist, a suf-
three exhibit spaces are rich and varied.
fragist, a maritime historian, an Argentine
There are usually 15 to 20 exhibits each year,
statesman and a Viking explorer.
including shows featuring new members,
oCHARLES RIVER ESPLANADE PARK
small works and Boston-themed pieces.
(www.esplanadeassociation.org; c; YCharles/ ALPHA GALLERY GALLERY
MGH or Kenmore) The southern bank of the
(www.alphagallery.com; 37 Newbury St; h10am-
Charles River Basin is an enticing urban es- 5:30pm Tue-Sat, 11am-5:30pm Sun; YArling-
cape, with grassy knolls and cooling water- ton) F Presenting the work of some
ways, all designed by Frederick Law Olmsted. headline-grabbing artists (sometimes lo-
It stretches almost 3 miles along the Boston cal, sometimes international), this starkly
shore of the Charles River, from the Museum minimalist gallery mostly shows oils (some
of Science to BU Bridge. The park is dotted figurative, some abstract), though occasion-
with public art, including an oversized bust ally you’ll see sculpture, mixed media and
of Arthur Fiedler, long-time conductor of the prints. In addition to Milton Avery, whose
Boston Pops. Paths along the river are ideal estate is represented here, Alpha has spe-
for bicycling, jogging or walking. cial shows of masters such as Max Beck-
GIBSON HOUSE MUSEUM HISTORIC BUILDING
mann and Pablo Picasso.
(www.thegibsonhouse.org; 137 Beacon St; tours GALLERY NAGA GALLERY
adult/child $9/3; htours 1pm, 2pm & 3pm Wed-
(www.gallerynaga.com; 67 Newbury St; h10am-
Sun; YArlington) Catherine Hammond Gib-
5pm Tue-Sat; YArlington) F Inside the
son was considered quite the pioneer when Gothic digs of the Church of the Covenant,
she moved to this Italian Renaissance row Gallery Naga exhibits contemporary paint-
house in 1860 (that she was a female home- ers, featuring many highly regarded local
owner in this ‘New Land’ was even more and regional artists. You can also see varied
unusual). The Gibson House attempts to prints, photographs and sculpture, as well
preserve a piece of Victorian-era Boston, as some impressive examples of holography.
showcasing the antique furniture and art One special and noteworthy niche is unique
collected by the Gibson family. and limited-edition furniture.
ARLINGTON STREET CHURCH CHURCH
JOHN HANCOCK TOWER NOTABLE BUILDING
(www.ascboston.org; 351 Boylston St; hservice
(200 Clarendon St; YCopley) Constructed
11am Sun; YArlington) The first public build-
with more than 10,000 panels of mirrored
ing erected in Back Bay in 1861, this grace- glass, the 62-story John Hancock Tower
ful church features extraordinary Tiffany was designed in 1976 by Henry Cobb. It is
windows and 16 bells in its steeple. The the tallest and most beloved skyscraper on
church’s Unitarian Universalist ministry is the Boston skyline – despite the precarious
purely progressive, as it has been since Rev
111
falling panes of glass when it was first built.
The Hancock offers an amazing perspective
WEATHER OR NOT
on Trinity Church, reflected in its facade.
Steady blue, clear view/Flashing blue,
NEW OLD SOUTH CHURCH CHURCH
clouds are due/Steady red, rain ahead/
(www.oldsouth.org; 645 Boylston St; h8am- Flashing red, snow instead.
7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat, 8:30am-7pm Sun; Since 1950, Bostonians have used
YCopley) This magnificent puddingstone
Bac k Bay E at i n g
this simple rhyme and the weather
Venetian Gothic church on Copley Sq is beacon atop the old Hancock tower
called the ‘new’ Old South because up un- (next to the new John Hancock Tower)
til 1875, the congregation worshipped in to determine if they need to take their
the Old South Church on Milk St (now the umbrella when they leave the house.
Old South Meeting House). The Congrega- And yes, the beacon has been known
tional church has an impressive collection to flash red in midsummer, but that
of stained-glass windows, all shipped from is not a warning of some extremely
London, and an organ that was rescued inclement New England weather, but
from a Minneapolis church just before rather an indication that the Red Sox
demolition. game has been canceled for the night.
PRUDENTIAL CENTER SKYWALK
OBSERVATORY LOOKOUT CHRISTIAN SCIENCE CHURCH CHURCH
(www.skywalkboston.com; 800 Boylston St; (www.christianscience.com; 175 Huntington Ave;
adult/child $16/11; h10am-10pm Mar-Oct, to h noon-4pm Tue, 1-4pm Wed, noon-5pm Thu-
8pm Nov-Feb; p c; YPrudential) Technically Sat, 11am-3pm Sun, service 10am Sun; YSym-
called the Shops at Prudential Center, this phony) Known to adherents as the ‘Mother
landmark Boston building is not much Church,’ this is the international home base
more than a fancy shopping mall. But it for the Church of Christ, Scientist (Chris-
does provide a bird’s-eye view of Boston tian Science), founded by Mary Baker Eddy
from its 50th-floor skywalk. Completely in 1866. Tour the grand classical revival
enclosed by glass, the skywalk offers spec- basilica, which can seat 3000 worshippers,
tacular 360-degree views of Boston and listen to the 14,000-pipe organ, and linger
Cambridge, accompanied by an entertain- on the expansive plaza with its 670ft-long
ing audio tour (with a special version cater- reflecting pool.
ing to kids). Alternatively, enjoy the same
view from Top of the Hub (p114).
MARY BAKER EDDY LIBRARY &

5 EATING
FLOUR BAKERY $
MAPPARIUM LIBRARY
(www.flourbakery.com; 131 Clarendon St; mains
(www.marybakereddylibrary.org; 200 Massa-
$5-10; h7am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm Sat, 9am-
chusetts Ave; adult/child $6/free; h10am-4pm 5pm Sun; Wv c; YBack Bay/South End)
Tue-Sun; c; YSymphony) The Mary Baker Joann Chang’s beloved bakery is taking
Eddy Library houses one of Boston’s hid- over Boston. This newest outlet – on the
den treasures. The intriguing Mapparium edge of Back Bay – has the same flaky pas-
is a room-size, stained-glass globe that visi- tries and rich coffee that we have come to
tors walk through on a glass bridge. It was expect, not to mention sandwiches, soups,
created in 1935, which is reflected in the salads and pizzas.
globe’s geopolitical boundaries. The acous-
tics allow everyone in the room to hear even SWEETGREEN VEGETARIAN $
the tiniest whisper. (www.sweetgreen.com; 659 Boylston St; mains
Besides the Mapparium, the library has $6-10; h10:30am-10:30pm; v c ; YCopley)
an odd amalgam of exhibits related to its Vegetarians, gluten-free eaters, health nuts
full name, the MBE Library for the Better- and all human beings will rejoice in the
ment of Humanity. Second-floor galleries goodness that is served at Sweetgreens.
deal with the ‘search for the meaning of Choose a salad or a wrap, then custom-
life,’ both on a personal and global level. design your own, or choose one of the un-
The heart of the library’s collections, Eddy’s expected, delicious, fresh combos that have
papers and transcripts, are on the top floors already been invented, including seasonal
and accessible by permission. specialties.
112
PARISH CAFÉ SANDWICHES $ eats every part of the animal. The ‘Salty
(www.parishcafe.com; 361 Boylston St; sandwich- Pig Parts’ get paired with stinky cheeses
es $12-15; hnoon-2am; v; YArlington) Sample and other accompaniments for amazing
the creations of Boston’s most famous chefs charcuterie plates. There’s pizza and pasta
without exhausting your expense account. for the less adventurous, and cocktails and
The menu at Parish features a rotating ros- craft beers for the thirsty.
ter of salads and sandwiches, each designed
PIATTINI ITALIAN $$
Bac k Bay E at i n g
by a local celebrity chef, including Lydia

Shire, Ken Oringer and Barbara Lynch. The (www.piattini.com; 226 Newbury St; small plates
place feels more ‘pub’ than ‘café’ with a long $9-15, mains $18-25; h11:30am-10pm Sun-Thu, to
bar backed by big TVs and mirrors. 11pm Fri & Sat; v; YCopley) If you have trou-
ble deciding what to order, Piattini can help.
TRIDENT The name means ‘small plates,’ so you don’t
BOOKSELLERS & CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL $ have to choose just one. The list of wines by
(www.tridentbookscafe.com; 338 Newbury St; the glass is extensive, each accompanied by
mains $8-12; h8am-midnight; Wv; YHynes) Is tasting notes and fun facts. This intimate
Trident a bookstore with an amazingly ec- enoteca (wine bar) is a delightful setting to
lectic menu or a café with a super selection sample the flavors of Italy, and you might
of reading material? The collection of books just learn something while you’re here.
is wide, but leans toward political and New
Age themes. The food menu is equally var- CODA PUB FOOD $$
ied, ranging from the comforting (muffins, (www.codaboston.com; 329 Columbus Ave; mains
soups, smoothies) to the daring (spinach lunch $9-15, dinner $13-24; h11:30am-11pm Sun-
arancini, Tibetan dumplings). Vegetarians Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; W; YBack Bay) Coda does
rejoice over the vegan cashew chili. the essentials, and does them right. The
menu changes seasonally, but you’ll often
oCOURTYARD MODERN AMERICAN $$ find grilled salmon, steak frites and bone-
(www.thecateredaffair.com; 700 Boylston St; in chicken breast, all prepared to perfec-
mains $17-22; h11:30am-4pm Mon-Fri; v; YCo- tion. The Coda burger (offered with add-ons
pley) The perfect destination for an elegant to please epicureans) does not disappoint.
luncheon with artfully prepared food is – Understated interior. Hip clientele. Potent
believe it or not – the Boston Public Library. cocktails. Good times.
Overlooking the beautiful Italianate court-
yard, this grown-up restaurant serves sea- CASA ROMERO MEXICAN $$
sonal, innovative and exotic dishes (along (%617-536-4341; www.casaromero.com; 30

with a few standards). After 2pm, the Court- Gloucester St; mains $18-25; h5-10pm Mon-Thu,
yard serves afternoon tea ($32), with a selec- to 11pm Fri & Sat, 11am-9pm Sun; v; YHynes)
tion of sandwiches, scones and sweets. The entrance to this hidden treasure is in
the public alley off Gloucester St. Step in-
oLOLITA COCINA MEXICAN $$ side and find yourself in a cozy casa – filled
(www.lolitatequilabars.com; 271 Dartmouth St; with folk art and Talavera tiles – which
tacos $11-15, mains $17-26; h5pm-1am, bar to is wonderful and warm during winter
2am; v; YCopley) This spicy little Mexican months. In pleasant weather, dine under
number is full of surprises (which we won’t the stars on the delightful patio.
ruin for you). We will reveal that the menu This is not your average taquería – be
is packed with unusual and enticing Mexi- prepared to pay for the experience (unless
can fare that does not disappoint: lobster you arrive before 6pm, in which case you
enchiladas, charred sweet corn and spicy can take advantage of the early bird special,
mojo tuna. Oh, and there’s all-you-can-eat a three-course meal for $22).
tacos for $7 on Monday nights.
BARLOLA TAPAS $$
SALTY PIG ITALIAN $$ (www.barlola.com; 160 Commonwealth Ave; tapas
(www.thesaltypig.com; 130 Dartmouth St; char- $6-12; h4pm-1am; YCopley) This authentic
cuterie $6-8, mains $13-21; YBack Bay) With Spanish eatery is tucked into a subterra-
prosciutto, paté, rillettes, testa (head nean space on residential Commonwealth
cheese), sanguinaccio (blood sausage), Ave. The menu is exclusively tapas, pre-
porchetta (pork shoulder) and more, you’ll pared by a team of chefs trained in España.
feel like you’re in one of those cultures that Mural-painted walls and flamenco music
113
create an inviting old-world ambience; the DRINKING &
lively, Spanish-speaking crowd and pitchers
of sangria add to it. Live flamenco dancing
6 NIGHTLIFE
Sundays at 8pm. WIRED PUPPY CAFE
(www.wiredpuppy.com; 250 Newbury St;
L’ESPALIER FRENCH $$$
h6:30am-7:30pm; W; YHynes) Delicious or-
(%617-262-3023; www.lespalier.com; 774 ganic coffee, welcoming atmosphere and
Boylston St; lunch mains $28, 3-course prix-
Bac k Bay D r i n k i n g & N i ght l i fe

free wi-fi or computer use. Surely, that’s all
fixe dinner $95, degustation $115; h11:30am- you need. But there’s also the cozy, exposed-
10:30pm; YPrudential) This tried-and-true brick interior and awesome outdoor patio.
favorite remains the crème de la crème of
Boston’s culinary scene, thanks to impec- BRAHMIN LOUNGE
cable service and a variety of prix-fixe and (www.thebrahmin.com; 33 Stanhope St;
tasting menus. The menus change daily, h4:30pm-2am Mon-Sat; YBack Bay) You may
but usually include a degustation of caviar, have never heard of Nightclub & Bar Maga-
a degustation of seasonal vegetables, and zine, but apparently they named this Back
recommended wine pairings. Bay original as the best lounge in the whole
country! We understand why. The elegant
DOUZO SUSHI $$$ atmosphere is enhanced by chandeliers and
(%617-859-8886; www.douzosushi.com; 131 leather couches, the menu of small plates is
Dartmouth St; sushi & sashimi $4-10, mains lunch thoughtful, and we love the seamless tran-
$10-15, dinner $20-30; h11:30am-11:30pm; sition to dance club (Friday and Saturday).
YBack Bay) Easy on the eyes, easy on the
palate. Douzo fills its loungey interior with BUKOWSKI TAVERN DIVE BAR
attractive urbanites sipping fancy cocktails (www.bukowskitavern.net; 50 Dalton St; h11am-

and feasting on fresh raw fish. The place 2am; YHynes) This sweet bar lies inside a
buzzes with an atmosphere of see-and-be- parking garage next to the canyon of the
seen, but attentive eaters are also paying Mass Pike. Expect sticky wooden tables,
close attention to the mini masterpieces loud rock, lots of black hoodies, plenty of
coming from the sushi bar. cussing, a dozen different burgers and dogs
and more than 100 kinds of beer.
DEUXAVE FRENCH $$$
SOFÁ CAFÉ CAFE
(%617-517-5915; www.deuxave.com; 371 Com-
(www.sofacafeusa.com; 217 Newbury St; h7am-
monwealth Ave; mains $28-41; h5-10pm Sun-
8pm; Wc ; YCopley) A transplant from São
Wed, to 11pm Thu-Sat; v; YHynes) At the cor-
Paolo, this Newbury St newcomer is attract-
ner of Mass Ave and Comm Ave (get it?) this
ing dedicated coffee-drinkers to sample its
is a highly lauded addition to Boston’s din-
aromatic Brazilian espresso drinks. The
ing scene. It’s all very elegant, with chande- specialty flavors are truly enticing. The
liers, dark wood furniture and big picture Ventura is iced coffee with sugar and lime
windows overlooking the two avenues. The that will cool you off on a hot day.
menu is nouvelle cuisine, offering modern
interpretations of French flavors. The place CITY BAR COCKTAIL BAR
gets raves for lobster gnocchi and nine- (www.citybarboston.com; 710 Boylston St;
hour French onion soup. h4:30pm-2am; YCopley) For an intimate at-
mosphere and sweet selection of cocktails,
ATLANTIC FISH CO SEAFOOD $$$
you can’t go wrong at this swish bar in the
(www.atlanticfishco.com; 761 Boylston St; mains Lenox Hotel. It’s not exactly a destination in
lunch $12-22, dinner $22-38; h11:30am-11pm and of itself, but it’s ideal for after-work or
Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; YCopley) New early-evening drinks.
England clam chowder in a bread bowl: for
a perfect lunch at Atlantic Fish Co, that’s CORNER TAVERN PUB
all you need to know. For non-believers, we (www.thecornerboston.com; 421 Marlborough St;
will add seafood fra diavolo, lobster ravioli h11:30am-2am; YHynes) A true neighbor-
and local Jonah crabcakes. There’s more, hood bar, the Corner Tavern has a decent
of course, and the menu is printed daily to beer selection, satisfying food and a wel-
showcase the freshest ingredients. Enjoy coming laid-back atmosphere. It’s convivi-
it in the seafaring dining room or on the al, but not overly crowded. The Sox are on
flower-filled sidewalk patio. the TVs, but the volume is down.
114
MINIBAR COCKTAIL BAR Boston’s least predictable and most enjoy-
(www.minibarboston.com; 51 Huntington Ave; able music venues. The place has an excel-
h5pm-2am; YCopley) Located in the posh lent sound system and a baby grand piano;
Copley Square Hotel, Minibar is much more most importantly, it books interesting,
enticing than your typical hotel bar. It’s a eclectic up-and-coming musicians. Check
swank space with cushy couches, sexy peo- out wicked local Wednesdays to sample the
ple and good vibes. Most importantly, the local sound. Buy tickets in advance at the
Bac k Bay E n te r ta i n me n t
bartenders mix deadly delicious cocktails. Berklee Performance Center.

Come for happy hour (5pm to 7pm Monday
to Thursday) and feast on juicy $2 sliders. BERKLEE PERFORMANCE
CENTER BLUES, JAZZ
TOP OF THE HUB BAR (www.berklee.edu/bpc; 136 Massachusetts Ave;
(%617-536-1775; www.topofthehub.net; 800 tickets $8-45; YHynes) For high-energy jazz
Boylston St; h11:30am-1am; W; YPrudential) recitals, smoky-throated vocalists and odd-
Yes, it’s touristy. And overpriced. And a lit- ball sets by keyboard-playing guys who look
tle bit snooty. But the head-spinning city like they dabble at being dungeon masters,
view makes it worthwhile to ride the eleva- the performance hall at this notable music
tor up to the 52nd floor of the Prudential college hosts a wide variety of performers.
Center. Come for spectacular sunset drinks Depending on the night, you’ll hear student
and stay for free live jazz. Beware the $24 recitals, invited musicians, instructors or
per person minimum after 8pm. the Ultra Sonic Rock Orchestra.
POUR HOUSE DIVE BAR HATCH MEMORIAL SHELL CONCERT VENUE
(www.pourhouseboston.com; 907 Boylston St; (www.hatchshell.com; Charles River Esplanade;
h8am-2am; YHynes) For years, young col- YCharles/MGH or Arlington) Free summer
lege students have introduced themselves concerts take place at this outdoor band-
to urban nightlife by enjoying cheap drinks stand on the banks of the Charles River.
and cheaper burgers in this pleasantly ratty Most famously, there’s Boston’s biggest an-
bar. nual music event, the Boston Pops’ July 4
STORYVILLE CLUB
concert. But throughout the summer, there
are also Friday-night movies, Wednesday-
(www.storyvilleboston.com; 90 Exeter St;
h9:30pm-2am Wed, Fri & Sat; YCopley) The
night orchestral ensembles and the occa-
legendary Storyville jazz club occupied this sional oldies concert.
same spot in the 1950s, when it hosted the
likes of Dave Brubeck and Billie Holiday
(who even recorded an album here). The
contemporary nightclub recalls that era
7 SHOPPING
with its loungey atmosphere and sexy New
oSIKARA & CO JEWELRY
Orleans bordello–inspired vibe. (www.sikara.com; 250 Newbury St; h10am-7pm

Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun; YHynes) Mousumi
CLUB CAFÉ GAY travels the world to seek inspiration for the
(www.clubcafe.com; 209 Columbus Ave; h11am- amazing ‘modern fusion jewelry’ you’ll find
2am; YBack Bay) It’s a club! It’s a café! It’s in Sikara & Co. From her native India to
cabaret! Anything goes at this glossy, gay countries the world around, she works with
nightlife extravaganza. There is live cabaret designers to incorporate semi-precious
in the Napoleon Room five nights a week, stones, precious metals and exotic design
while the main dance and lounge area has elements into these miniature pieces of art!
tea parties, salsa dancing, trivia compe-
titions, karaoke and good old-fashioned CONVERSE SHOES, CLOTHING
dance parties, depending on the night. (www.converse.com; 348 Newbury St; h10am-
7pm Mon-Fri, to 8pm Sat, 11am-6pm Sun;
YHynes) Converse started making shoes
3 ENTERTAINMENT right up the road in Malden, Massachusetts

way back in 1908. Chuck Taylor joined the
oRED ROOM @ CAFÉ 939 LIVE MUSIC ‘team’ in the 1920s and the rest is history.
(www.cafe939.com; 939 Boylston St; h8-11pm This retail store (one of three in the coun-
Wed-Sun; YHynes) Run by Berklee students, try) carries sneakers, denim and other gear.
the Red Room @ 939 has emerged as one of The iconic shoes come in all colors and
115
BOSTON FASHION
Lunarik Fashions (279 Newbury St; h11am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat, noon-6pm Sun;
Y Hynes) Like a modern woman’s handbag, Lunarik is packed with useful stuff, much
of it by local designers. Look for whimsical collage-covered pieces by Jenn Sherr,
Bac k Bay S h o pp i n g
beautiful hand-crafted jewelry by Dasken Designs, and the best-selling richly colored
leather handbags by Saya Cullinan. Who wouldn’t want to pack their stuff into that!
Daniela Corte (www.danielacorte.com; 211 Newbury St; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat; Y Copley)
Daniela Corte attended the Boston School of Fashion Design before launching her
own line and opening this understated boutique on Newbury St. Browse her collection
of silky tops, fun-loving dresses and skin-hugging leggings.
patterns; make them uniquely your own at ter location: it overlooks the finish line of
the in-store customization area. the Boston Marathon. It’s known for atten-
tive customer service, as staff work hard
IBEX CLOTHING to make sure you get a shoe that fits. They
(www.ibex.com; 303 Newbury St; h10am-7pm also work hard to support the running com-
Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun; YHynes) Based in munity, with a weekly running club and a
snowy, cold Vermont, Ibex makes out- calendar of other events.
door clothing from soft, warm, breath-
able merino wool. It’s not the itchy stuff TRIDENT BOOKSELLERS & CAFÉ BOOKS
you remember – this wool is plush and (www.tridentbookscafe.com; 338 Newbury St;
pleasurable, thanks to the fineness of the h9am-midnight; W; YHynes) Pick out a pile
fiber. Categorized as base layer, midlayer of books and retreat to a quiet corner of the
or outerlayer, the clothing is guaranteed café to decide which ones you really want to
to keep you cozy, even through the coldest, buy. You’ll come away enriched, as Trident’s
snowiest Vermont winter. Bonus: it looks stock tends toward New Age titles. But
good, too. there’s a little bit of everything here, as the
‘hippie turned back-to-the-lander, turned
BALL & BUCK MEN’S CLOTHING Buddhist, turned entrepreneur’ owners
(www.ballandbuck.com; 144 Newbury St; h11am- know how to keep their customers happy.
8pm; YCopley) The hunter logo is indicative
of Ball & Buck’s target audience – manly NEWBURY COMICS MUSIC
men who are not afraid to wear camouflage (www.newburycomics.com; 332 Newbury St;
and look good in it, too. These attractive, h10am-10pm Mon-Fri, to 11pm Sat, 11am-8pm
durable duds are meant to be worn, for Sun; YHynes) How does a music store re-
work or play, trekking through the woods main relevant in this age of MP3? One
or strolling city streets. Every item in the word: vinyl. In addition to the many cheap
shop is made in the US of A. CDs and DVDs, there’s a solid selection of
new release vinyl. Incidentally, they do sell
FAIRY SHOP GIFTS comic books, as well as action figures and
(www.thefairyshop.com; 272 Newbury St; hvary; other silly gags. No wonder everyone is hav-
YHynes) Don’t bother coming here unless ing such a wicked good time.
you believe in fairies. But if you do believe,
stop in for pixie dust, pet unicorns, magical SOCIETY OF ARTS & CRAFTS HANDICRAFTS
trinkets and Wonderland souvenirs. You’ll (www.societyofcrafts.org; 175 Newbury St;
find fairies and gnomes in every shape and h10am-6pm Tue-Sat; YCopley) This prestig-
size. So if you’d rather be ‘chillin’ with your ious nonprofit gallery was founded in 1897.
gnomies,’ here’s where. With retail space downstairs and exhibit
space upstairs, the society promotes emerg-
MARATHON SPORTS SPORTS ing and established artists, and encour-
(www.marathonsports.com; 671 Boylston St; ages innovative handicrafts. The collection
h10:30am-7:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat, changes constantly, but you’ll find lovely
noon-6pm Sun; YCopley) Specializing in run- weaving, leather, ceramics, glassware, fur-
ning gear, this place could not have a bet- niture and other hand-crafted items.
1 16
CLOSET, INC CLOTHING tel, a chapel and an amazing city view from
(www.theclosetboston.com; 175 Newbury St; the top-floor Skywalk (p111).
h10am-6pm Tue-Sat; YCopley) For shoppers
with an eye for fashion, but without a pock-
SPORTS &
etbook to match. Closet, Inc (and it does
feel like some fashion maven’s overstuffed
closet) is a secondhand clothing store that
2 ACTIVITIES
Bac k Bay S p o r ts & A c t i v i t i es
carries high-quality suits, sweaters, jackets, BACK BAY YOGA STUDIO YOGA
jeans, gowns and other garb by acclaimed (%617-375-9642; www.backbayyoga.com; 364
designers. The longer the item sits in the Boylston St; yoga class $15; h6am-9pm Mon-
store, the bigger the discount. Fri, 9:30am-8pm Sat, 8am-8pm Sun; YArling-
ton) Services from massage to meditation,
CONDOM WORLD ACCESSORIES as well as all forms of yoga. Seven to ten
(www.condomworldboston.com; 332 Newbury St; classes are offered daily, with a particularly
h11am-8pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat, noon- full schedule on Monday. One-hour vinyasa
7pm Sun; YHynes) There’s a good selection classes are $10, and there are daily commu-
of condoms in all sizes, colors and textures. nity classes for only $5. With three studios
Cinnamon-flavored condoms are not the painted in jewel tones, it’s a warm and at-
only way to spice up your sex life, however. tractive space for your sun salutations.
Friendly staff can also help you pick out
lubricants, adult toys and other basic sex G2O SPA & SALON SPA
paraphernalia. And for the easily amused: (%617-262-2220; www.g2ospasalon.com; 278
provocatively shaped ice-cube trays, pasta Newbury St; h8am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat,
and straws; X-rated fortune cookies etc. 10am-6pm Sun; YHynes) Spend some time
at this ‘Day Spa Resort’ and your body will
COPLEY PLACE MALL thank you. The offerings include facials,
(www.simon.com; 100 Huntington Ave; h10am- massage, acupuncture and so much more.
8pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; YBack Bay) Half There are (relatively) simple pleasures, such
the fun of Back Bay shopping is the unique as the Skylight Hot Tub and the Rooftop
boutiques and local shops that line New- Terrace.
bury St. The other half is the super-swank
designer stores that populate Copley Place. SOUTHWEST CORRIDOR CYCLING
This urban mall includes 75 shops, most (www.swcpc.org; YBack Bay) Extending for
of them with big names such as Neiman almost 5 miles, the Southwest Corridor is a
Marcus, Barneys New York, Tiffany & Co, paved walkway, running between and par-
Jimmy Choo, Christian Dior etc. allel to Columbus and Huntington Aves. It’s
an ideal urban cycling route, leading from
HEMPEST CLOTHING, HOMEWARES
Back Bay, through the South End and Rox-
(www.hempest.com; 207 Newbury St; h11am- bury, to Forest Hills in Jamaica Plain. Bor-
8pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; YCopley) S The row a bike from the Hubway (p209) or rent
Hempest is not a well-stocked smoke shop, one at Community Bicycle Supply (www.
as it’s more about stylish clothing, organic communitybicycle.com; 496 Tremont St; per day
soaps and lotions, and fun home-furnishing $25-35; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat year-round, also
items. Most of the products are made from noon-5pm Sun Apr-Sep; YBack Bay).
cannabis hemp, the botanical cousin of
marijuana. Hemp is a versatile, renewable KINGS BOWLING
resource that is economically and environ- (www.kingsbackbay.com; 50 Dalton St; bowl-
mentally beneficial, and now some enlight- ing per person per game $5.50-7, shoe rental
ened politicians are poised to make it legal $4; h3pm-1am Mon-Wed, noon-1am Thu-Sat,
to grow in the US. Stay tuned. noon-11pm Sun; c; YHynes) For an over-the-
top tenpin experience, roll a few at Kings,
PRUDENTIAL CENTER MALL
where high-tech lanes are lined with neon
(www.prudentialcenter.com; 800 Boylston St; lights and surrounded by trippy graph-
h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11am-8pm Sun; W; YPru-
ics. Behind deck is an enormous cocktail
dential) One of Boston’s most distinctive
lounge done up in a style reminiscent of The
landmarks, the Prudential Center has some- Jetsons. If bowling is not your game, there
thing for everyone: shops, restaurants, a ho-
is also billiards, shuffleboard and skeeball.
1 17
Kenmore Square &

Fenway
1 Spending a day at the 2 Watching the Red Sox 4 Hearing the world-
Museum of Fine Arts whip their opponents at renowned Boston Sym-
(p120), immersing yourself Fenway Park (p119). phony Orchestra (p127)
in the Art of the Ameri- play in the acoustically
cas and lunching at the 3 Venerating the artistic, perfect Symphony Hall.
New American Cafe, then aesthetic and cultural legacy
dedicating the afternoon to of Isabella Stewart Gardner 5 Hitting Lansdowne
exploring other treasures, at her namesake museum St (p126) for a night of
especially the Impression- (p122). drinking, music and merry-
ist and post-Impressionist making.
paintings.
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118
Lonely Planet’s
Top Tip Explore Kenmore
If you can’t score tickets to Square & Fenway
the baseball game, you can
Kenmore Sq is the epicenter of student life in Boston.
still watch the action and
In addition to the Boston University behemoth, there
soak up the atmosphere
are more than a half-dozen colleges in the area. As such,
at one of the bars on Lans-
Kenmore Sq has a disproportionate share of nightlife, in-
downe St (they all definitely
expensive eateries and dormitories disguised as brown-
have TVs). You can even
stones.
hear the gasps and the
Come to Kenmore Sq to cavort at cool clubs and
cheers from the fans inside
devour cheap food. If you get the timing right, you can
the ballpark.
do so before or after the Red Sox game. Watch the boys
K e n m o re Sq ua re & Fe nway
battle it out from your perch at one of the local sports

bars or, if you’re lucky, at Fenway Park.
Best Places
5 to Eat While Kenmore Sq is best for baseball and beer, the
southern part of this neighborhood is dedicated to more
¨¨ Island Creek Oyster Bar high-minded pursuits. Dubbed ‘Avenue of the Arts,’
(p125) Huntington Ave represents a concentrated area of ma-
¨¨ El Pelon (p125) jor and minor artistic and cultural venues, including
¨¨ Gyro City (p125) Symphony Hall, two universities and two museums. Art-
lovers should devote a day to exploring one of Boston’s
¨¨ Audubon Boston (p125)
celebrated art venues (although deciding which one will
For reviews, see p125 A be a challenge).
Best Places Local Life

6 to Drink
¨ Cheap Grub Locals know that Peterborough St
¨¨ Bleacher Bar (p126)
(p125) is a hub for affordable eating. Ethnic eateries and
¨¨ Lower Depths Tap Room take-out joints line the little residential street, making
(p126) it a sort of urban food court.
¨¨ Hawthorne (p126) ¨ Music Scene Buy tickets in advance to see national
¨¨ Pavement Coffeehouse acts at the House of Blues (p128), but hang out at
(p127) Church (p128) any night of the week for a glimpse of the
For reviews, see p126 A local music scene.
Best Places Getting There & Away

1 to Watch
¨ Metro West of the center, the green line of the T forks
the Game into four branches, so you have to pay attention not
¨¨ Bleacher Bar (p126) only to the color of your train, but also its letter (B, C,
¨¨ Tasty Burger (p126) D or E). To reach Kenmore Sq or Fenway Park, take any
¨¨ Boston Beer Works of the green-line trains except the E-line to Kenmore
(p126) T station. Sights along Huntington Ave in Fenway
¨¨ Lansdowne Pub (p127) are accessible from the E-line Museum station or the
orange-line Ruggles station.
FENWAY PARK
RICH GAGNON/GETTY IMAGES ©
What is it that makes Fenway Park ‘America’s Most DON’T MISS

Beloved Ballpark’? It’s not just that it’s the home of
the Boston Red Sox. Open since 1912, it is the oldest ¨¨ Sitting atop the
operating baseball park in the country. As such, Green Monster
the park has many quirks that make for a unique ¨¨ Original seats that
experience. are more than a cen-
The Green Monster, the 37ft-high wall in left field, is the tury old
most famous feature at Fenway Park. It’s only 310ft away ¨¨ Fenway’s beloved
from home plate (compared to the standard 325ft). It’s a manual scoreboard
popular target for right-handed hitters, who can score an
easy home run with a high hit to left field. On the other
hand, a powerful line drive – which might normally be a PRACTICALITIES
home run – bounces off the Monster. As all Red Sox fans ¨¨ Map p247
know, ‘the wall giveth and the wall taketh away.’
¨¨ www.redsox.com
The Green Monster was painted green only in 1947. But
since then, it has become a patented part of the Fenway ¨¨ 4 Yawkey Way
experience. Literally. The color is officially known as Fence ¨¨ tours adult/child
Green and the supplier will not share the recipe. $18/12
The Pesky Pole, Fenway’s right-field foul pole, is named ¨¨ h10am-5pm
for former shortstop Johnny Pesky. Until his death in 2012, ¨¨ c
‘Mr Red Sox’ Johnny Pesky was associated with the team ¨¨ Y Kenmore
for 12 years as a player and 46 years as a manager or coach.
The Triangle, in the deepest darkest corner of centre
field where the walls form a triangle, is – at 425ft – the furthest distance from home plate.
The bleachers at Fenway Park are green, except for the lone red seat: seat 21 at section
42, row 37. This is supposedly the location of the longest home run ever hit at Fenway Park –
officially 502ft, hit by Ted Williams in 1946.
The best way to experience Fenway Park is to catch a game (p128). Otherwise, see these
highlights on a Ballpark Tour. Avoid afternoon tours on game days; crowds are huge and
tours shortened.
MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS
APPEAL TO THE GREAT SPIRIT, BY CYRUS EDWIN DALLIN/EDUCATION IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES ©

Since 1876, the Museum of Fine Arts (MFA) has been DON’T MISS
Boston’s premier venue for showcasing art by local,
national and international artists. Nowadays, the ¨¨ The Daughters of
museum’s holdings encompass all eras, from the Edward Darley Boit by
ancient world to contemporary times, and all areas John Singer Sargent
of the globe, making it truly encyclopedic in scope. ¨¨ Boston Common
Most recently, the museum has added gorgeous at Twilight by Childe
new wings dedicated to the Art of the Americas Hassam
and to contemporary art, contributing to Boston’s ¨¨ Where Do We Come
emergence as an art center in the 21st century. From? by Paul Gauguin
¨¨ Buddhist Temple
Art of the Americas room
The centerpiece of the MFA is the four-story Americas ¨¨ Black River by El
wing, which includes 53 galleries exhibiting art from the Anatsui
pre-Columbian era up through the 20th century.
Some of the newest, most intriguing acquisitions are on
the lower level, which houses the pre-Columbian and Na- PRACTICALITIES
tive American artwork. There are also a few rooms dedi-
¨¨ MFA
cated to colonial America and the maritime trade, with a
¨¨ Map p247
wonderful collection of model ships.
Level one showcases 18th- and 19th-century art, with ¨¨ www.mfa.org
several rooms dedicated to neoclassicism and revolution- ¨¨ 465 Huntington Ave
ary Boston. Thomas Sully’s depiction of Washington’s Pas- ¨¨ adult/child $25/10
sage of the Delaware is a highlight. The MFA also has the ¨¨ h10am-5pm Sat-
world’s largest holding of Copley paintings; don’t miss the Tue, to 10pm Wed-Fri
alarming Watson and the Shark.
¨¨ c
The second level is, perhaps, the richest part of the wing.
¨¨ Y Museum or Ruggles
An entire gallery is dedicated to John Singer Sargent, in-
cluding his iconic painting The Daughters of Edward
Darley Boit. Highlights in the American Impressionism
1 21
galleries include pieces by Mary Cassat and the per- FOR KIDS
ennial local favorite, Boston Common at Twilight by
Childe Hassam. Children under the age
The top floor is devoted to modernism, with won- of 17 are admitted free
derful pieces by Alexander Calder, Frank Stella and after 3pm on weekdays
Georgia O’Keefe. There are also impressive addi- and all day on week-
K e n m o re Sq ua re & Fe nway M u s e u m o f F i n e A r t s
tions by Latin American artists. ends – a fantastic family
bargain.
Art of Europe
Located in the museum’s northern wing, the MFA’s
collection of European art spans the centuries from
The murals in the
the Middle Ages to the 20th century. The Italian Re-
rotunda and above
naissance is well represented, with gilded icons and
the main staircase
paintings by Botticelli, Titian and Tintoretto. Also
were painted by John
in the house is the Golden Age of Dutch painting,
Singer Sargent in
with five paintings by Rembrandt. The highlight of
the 1920s. The main
the European exhibit is no doubt the Impressionists
rotunda painting
and post-Impressionists, with masterpieces by De-
depicts the Greek
gas, Gauguin, Renoir and Van Gogh, as well as the
goddess of wisdom,
largest collection of Monets outside Paris.
Athena, turning back
Time.
Art of Asia, Oceania & Africa
One of the MFA’s strongest areas, the collection of
Asian art is located in the southwestern wing, along
GET A GUIDE
with art from the South Pacific and Africa. The cen-
terpiece of the exhibit is the serene Buddhist Tem-
ple room on the 2nd floor, just one exhibit in a vast For a guided tour in one
array of Japanese art, including prints and metal of seven languages,
works. There is also an extensive display of Chinese rent the museum’s mul-
paintings, calligraphy and ceramics. timedia guide (adult/
child $6/4), which uses
video, audio and anima-
Art of the Ancient World
tion to provide extra in-
In the southeastern part of the museum, the MFA’s
sight into the highlights
ancient-art collection dates from 6000 BC to 600 AD
of the MFA collection.
and covers a huge geographic spectrum. The high-
light is certainly the Egyptian galleries, especially
the two rooms of mummies. The Etruscan painted
tombs are also impressive. Greek, Roman and Nu- The Linde wing fea-
bian pieces occupy the second level, with plenty of tures upscale dining
perfectly sculpted Greek gods and Roman emperors. at the restaurant
Bravo, as well as a
Linde Wing for Contemporary Art café and cafeteria. In
Opened in 2011, this is the newest part of the ‘new’ the Shapiro Court-
MFA. The renovation of the west wing – originally yard, sample Ken
designed by IM Pei – nearly tripled the exhibition Oringer’s menu of
space for contemporary art. There are galleries dedi- modern American
cated to video, multimedia art and decorative arts cuisine at the New
in addition to the more traditional media. American Café.
The darling of museum patrons is Black River, a
fantastic woven tapestry of discarded bottle caps, by
Ghanaian artist El Anatsui. But the most compel-
ling piece is perhaps the blue neon sign by Maur-
izio Nannucci, which spells out ‘All Art Has Been
Contemporary.’
ISABELLA STEWART GARDNER MUSEUM
PAUL MAROTTA/GETTY IMAGES ©

The magnificent Venetian-style palazzo that houses this DON’T MISS
museum was home to ‘Mrs Jack’ Gardner herself until
her death in 1924. A monument to one woman’s taste for ¨¨ Ancient art and
acquiring exquisite art, the Gardner is filled with some seasonal landscaping
2500 priceless objects, primarily European, including in the courtyard
outstanding tapestries and Italian Renaissance and 17th- ¨¨ Portrait of Isabella
century Dutch paintings. The four-story greenhouse Stewart Gardner by
courtyard is a masterpiece and a tranquil oasis that John Singer Sargent
alone is worth the price of admission. ¨¨ Rape of Europa by
Titian
Courtyard ¨¨ Newly restored
The centerpiece of the Gardner Museum is the gorgeous Tapestry Room
courtyard, filled with lush greenery, vibrant blooms and
evocative sculpture. Almost every room gives a different
perspective on this masterpiece of landscape design. The PRACTICALITIES
plantings change seasonally. Come in early spring to see ¨¨ Map p247
the courtyard draped in stunning nasturtium blooms (re-
¨¨ www.gardnermu-
portedly Isabella’s favorite).
seum.org
¨¨ 280 The Fenway
Cloisters
¨¨ adult/child $15/free
The most striking room on the 1st floor is the Spanish Clois-
¨¨ h11am-5pm Mon,
ter, with its Islamic tile. At one end, a Moorish arch frames
Wed & Fri-Sun, to 9pm
John Singer Sargent’s picture of a Gypsy dance. At the other
end, a wrought-iron gate leads into the Spanish Chapel, Thu
hung with Spanish religious art. Other cloisters encircle the ¨¨ c
courtyard, sprinkled with sculptures and stone work. ¨¨ Y Museum
Several smaller rooms are stuffed with paintings, in-
cluding work by James McNeill Whistler, Henri Matisse,
Edgar Degas and Anders Zorn. Mrs Gardner was a patron of John Singer Sargent, and
many of his paintings hang in these rooms.
123
Second Floor ART HEIST

On the 2nd floor, the Dutch room contains Mrs
Gardner’s small collection of Dutch and Flemish art, On March 18, 1990, two
including a self-portrait by Rembrandt and another thieves disguised as
portrait by Rubens. Note the empty frames, where police officers broke
the stolen paintings once hung. into the Isabella Stew-
K e n m o re Sq ua re & Fe nway I s a b e l l a S t e wa r t G a r d n e r M u s e u m
The majestic Tapestry Room evokes a castle hall, art Gardner Museum.
hung with 10 allegorical tapestries. One series de- They left with nearly
picts scenes from the Life of Cyrus the Great, while $200 million worth of
the other recounts the Life of Abraham. artworks. The most
The Raphael Room shows off two paintings by famous painting stolen
the namesake Renaissance painter, as well as two was Vermeer’s The Con-
gorgeous cassoni (Italian wedding chests). cert, but the loot also
included three works by
Third Floor Rembrandt, and others
The 3rd floor contains the highlights of this rich col- by Manet and Degas,
lection. The sumptuous Veronese Room is so named not to mention French
for the stunning ceiling painting, but this room is and Chinese artifacts.
filled with treasures, including pastels by James Mc- The crime was never
Neill Whistler. solved. Since Mrs Gard-
The museum’s most celebrated gallery is the Tit- ner’s will stipulated that
ian Room, where Mrs Gardner displayed her passion the exhibit should never
for all things Venetian. The gallery is centered on Ti- be altered, the empty
tian’s famous rendition of Europa, which was much frames still hang on the
loved by the collector. walls.
Your final stop is the Gothic Room, featuring Sar-
gent’s remarkable (and rather controversial) portrait
of Mrs Gardner herself. This room was never open to Take a free one-hour
the public when Mrs Gardner was alive, but she did tour of museum
allow Sargent to use it as a studio. highlights on week-
days at noon and
Piano Building 2pm. Introductory
In 2012, the Gardner Museum opened the doors of talks take place in
a greatly anticipated, hotly contested new build- Calderwood Hall on
ing, designed by architect Renzo Piano. Mrs Jack’s weekdays at 12:30pm
will stipulated that her art-filled palazzo never be and 2:30pm. Alterna-
altered, so the project required much negotiation tively, printed room
(including a special permission from the Massa- guides provide de-
chusetts Supreme Court). The end result allows scriptions of the art
the palazzo to better serve its originally intended work in each room.
purpose, which is to share Isabella’s love for art
and culture with the community. The new space
includes a lovely concert hall, as well as additional MUSEUM
exhibit space which supports a vibrant art-in- CONCERTS
residency program.
Elegant Calderwood
Hall is the setting for
concerts – from classi-
cal to contemporary –
on the third Thursday of
the month (5:30pm to
9pm) and Sunday after-
noons (1:30pm).
1 24
SIGN OF THE TIMES
London has Big Ben, Paris has the Eiffel Tower, and Boston has the Citgo Sign (Map
p247). It’s an unlikely landmark in this high-minded city, but Bostonians love the
bright-blinking ‘trimark’ that has towered over Kenmore Sq since 1965. Every time
the Red Sox hit a home run over the leftfield wall at Fenway Park, Citgo’s colorful logo
is seen by thousands of fans. It also symbolizes the end of the Boston Marathon, as it
falls at mile 25 in the race.
For whatever reason, Bostonians have claimed these neon lights as their own. The
sign was turned off in 1979 to conserve energy, and after four years, Citgo decided
to dismantle the deteriorating sign. But local residents rallied, arguing it was a prime
example of urban neon art. They fought to bestow landmark status on the sign to
K e n m o re Sq ua re & Fe nway S i gh t s
preserve it. And the Citgo sign stayed.

The sign was renovated in 2005, replacing the neon lights with LEDs (which are
more durable, more energy-efficient and easier to maintain). Indeed, the previous
version of the sign required more than 5 miles of neon tubing to light its 60ft-by-60ft
face. Featured in film, photographs and song, the Citgo sign continues to shine.
1 SIGHTS is choked with tall reeds. The Fens features

well-cared-for community gardens, the el-
egant Kelleher Rose Garden, and plenty of
space to toss a Frisbee, play pick-up basket-
1 Kenmore Square ball or lie in the sun.
FENWAY PARK STADIUM MASSART GALLERY
See p119. Map p247 (Massachusetts College of Art; www.
massart.edu; 621 Huntington Ave, South Bldg;
MUGAR MEMORIAL LIBRARY LIBRARY
h noon-6pm Mon, Tue & Thu-Sat, to 8pm Wed;
Map p247 (Howard Gotlieb Archival Research YLongwood Ave) F This is the country’s
Center; www.bu.edu/archives; 771 Common- first and only four-year independent public
wealth Ave; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri; YBU Central) art college. There’s always some thought-
F The special collections of BU’s Mu- provoking or sense-stimulating exhibits to
gar Memorial Library are housed in the see at one of seven galleries on campus. In
Howard Gotlieb Archival Research Center, the South Building, the Bakalar and Paine
an outstanding 20th-century archive that galleries host nationally and internation-
balances pop culture and scholarly appeal. ally known artists – as well as emerging
Rotating exhibits showcase the holdings, talents – as a complement to the school’s
including papers from Arthur Fiedler’s curricula. Other campus galleries usually
collection, the personal correspondance showcase student and faculty work.
of Julius and Ethel Rosenberg, or the cor- MassArt is one of the country’s oldest art
respondence of BU alumnus Dr Martin Lu- schools and – as such – was the first to grant
ther King, Jr. an art degree. Originally the Massachusetts
Normal Art School, the institution was part
of a plan by civic leaders to promote fine arts
1 Fenway and technology, in an attempt to ensure the
state’s continued economic growth. Other
MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS MUSEUM
parts of this plan included establishing the
See p120. Museum of Fine Arts (founded in 1870)
and Massachusetts Institute of Technology
ISABELLA STEWART
(1860).
GARDNER MUSEUM MUSEUM
See p122. SYMPHONY HALL HISTORIC BUILDING
Map p247 (www.bso.org; 301 Massachusetts
BACK BAY FENS PARK
Ave; htours 4pm Wed & 2pm Sat, reservation re-
Map p247 (Park Dr; hdawn-dusk; YMuseum)
quired) This majestic building has been the
The Back Bay Fens, or the Fenway, follows home of the Boston Symphony Orchestra
the Muddy River, an aptly named creek that
125
since 1900, when it was built by McKim, management. The place has retained its
Mead & White (of BPL fame). See the hall’s minimalist decor and casual-cool vibe, but
public spaces and go behind the scenes on a it has added a cocktail program and inter-
free, one-hour tour. esting menu items like corn husk flounder
Symphony Hall is often lauded for its and Cajun cauliflower heart. Highly recom-
perfect acoustics, and the architects did in mended for a bite before the Sox game.
fact engage a Harvard physics professor to
achieve this. The sloped stage walls, shal- PETIT ROBERT BISTRO FRENCH $$
low side balconies and coffered ceiling all Map p247 (www.petitrobertbistro.com; 468 Com-
help distribute the sound around the hall. monwealth Ave; mains lunch $12-18, dinner $17-27;
To truly appreciate the physics, you’ll have h11am-11pm; YKenmore) Once upon a time
to come for a concert. the legendary Maison Robert represented
the finest dining in Boston. The ultrachic
K e n m o re Sq ua re & Fe nway Eat i n g

institution has now closed, but chef Jacky
5 EATING Robert has reapplied his talents to this wel-
coming, working-class bistro. The French
fare is straightforward and hearty, with
daily specials posted on the blackboard.
5 Kenmore Square The surroundings are casual-chic but
Most places in Kenmore Sq target the large crowded, including a tiny patio.
local student population, meaning cheap
ethnic eats and divey sandwich shops, but
oISLAND CREEK
OYSTER BAR SEAFOOD $$$
a few upscale restaurants have found their
Map p247 (%617-532-5300; www.islandcreek-
way here, too.
oysterbar.com; 500 Commonwealth Ave; oysters
INDIA QUALITY INDIAN $ $2.50-4, mains lunch $18-21, dinner $25-35;
Map p247 (www.indiaquality.com; 484 Com- h4pm-1am; YKenmore) Island Creek has
monwealth Ave; mains lunch $8, dinner $12-15; united ‘farmer, chef and diner in one space’ –
h11:30am-11pm; v c ; YKenmore) India and what a space it is. ICOB serves up the
Quality has been serving chicken curry region’s finest oysters, along with other lo-
and lamb saag to hungry students, daytime cal seafood, in an ethereal new-age setting.
professionals and baseball fans since 1983 The specialty – lobster roe noodles topped
– and it repeatedly tops the lists of Boston’s with braised short ribs and grilled lobster –
best Indian food. The place is rather non- lives up to the hype.
descript, but the food is anything but, es-
pecially considering the reasonable prices
(look for lunch specials under $10). Service 5 Fenway
is reliably fast and friendly.
The quiet streets between the Back Bay
UBURGER BURGERS $ Fens and Fenway Park are home to a few
Map p247 (www.uburgerboston.com; 636 Bea- neighborhood favorites.
con St; burgers $5-7; h11am-11pm; YKenmore)
The way burgers were meant to be. The oEL PELON MEXICAN $
beef is ground fresh daily on the premises Map p247 (www.elpelon.com; 92 Peterborough St;
and burgers are made to order, with fancy mains $6-8; h11am-11pm; v c ; YMuseum) If
(grilled mushrooms and Swiss cheese) or your budget is tight, don’t miss this chance
basic (American cheese and pickles) top- to fill up on Boston’s best burritos, tacos
pings. The french fries and onion rings are and tortas, made with the freshest ingredi-
hand-cut and crispy-crunchy good. Also ents. The tacos de la casa are highly recom-
available: chicken sandwiches, hot dogs and mended, especially the pescado, made with
salads, but why would you do that? Icelandic cod and topped with chili mayo.
Plates are paper and cutlery is plastic.
AUDUBON BOSTON PUB FOOD $$
Map p247 (www.audubonboston.us; 838 Beacon GYRO CITY GREEK $
St; sandwiches $9-12, mains $15-17; h11:30am- Map p247 (www.gyrocityboston.com; 88 Peter-
midnight, bar to 1am; v; YSt Mary’s) Audubon borough St; mains $7-10; h11am-11pm; v c ;
is a long-standing Fenway favorite, now YMuseum) This authentic gyrotico is a new-
with a new menu, a new name and new comer to Peterborough St (aka Fenway’s
1 26
restaurant row), but it fits right in with
cheap, scrumptious, filling food. There are 6 Kenmore Square
a variety of gyros, each with a delightful
twist (eg, French fries on the traditional oBLEACHER BAR SPORTS BAR
pork gyro) – as well as baklava made by a Map p247 (www.bleacherbarboston.com; 82a
real live Greek mama. Counter seating in- Lansdowne St; h11am-1am Sun-Wed, to 2am Thu-
side, patio seating outside. Sat; YKenmore) Tucked under the bleachers
at Fenway Park, this classy bar offers a view
TASTY BURGER BURGERS $
onto center field. It’s not the best place to
Map p247 (www.tastyburger.com; 1301 Boylston watch the game, as the place gets packed,
St; burgers $4-6; h11am-2am; c; YFenway) but it’s a fun way to experience America’s
Once a Mobile station, it’s now a retro oldest ballpark, even when the Sox are not
burger joint, with picnic tables outside and playing. Gentlemen: enjoy the view from
K e n m o re Sq ua re & Fe nway D r i n k i n g & N i gh t l i f e
a pool table inside. The name of the place the loo! If you want a seat in front of the
is a nod to Pulp Fiction, as is the poster of window, get your name on the waiting list
Samuel L Jackson on the wall. You won’t an hour or two before game time; once seat-
find a half-pound of Kobe beef on your bun, ed, diners have 45 minutes in the hot seat.
but you will have to agree, ‘That’s a tasty
burger.’ Aside from the burgers, this is a fun LOWER DEPTHS TAP ROOM BAR
place to drink cheap beer and watch sports Map p247 (www.thelowerdepths.com; 476 Com-
on TV. monwealth Ave; h11:30am-1am; YKenmore)
This subterranean space is a beer-lovers’
TRATTORIA TOSCANA ITALIAN $$
paradise. It has all the atmosphere (and
Map p247 (www.trattoriatoscanafenway.com; beer knowledge) of its sister establishment,
130 Jersey St; mains $15-25; h5-10pm Mon-Sat; Bukowski Tavern, but the Lower Depths
YMuseum) This tiny trattoria welcomes all classes it up just a little. Besides the impres-
comers as if they are old friends, serving up sive beer selection, the kitchen turns out ex-
Tuscan wines, rich soups and delicious pas- cellent comfort food, including one-dollar
tas, with the gnocchi a particular highlight. Fenway Franks with exotic one-dollar top-
The tantalizing aromas and intimate at- pings. Cash only.
mosphere delight the neighborhood crowd
at this hidden gem. It’s a small place that HAWTHORNE COCKTAIL BAR
does not take reservations, but your pa- Map p247 (www.thehawthornebar.com; 500a
tience will be rewarded. Commonwealth Ave; h5pm-2am; YKenmore)
Located in the basement of the Hotel Com-
CITIZEN PUBLIC monwealth, this is a living room–style
HOUSE MODERN AMERICAN $$
cocktail lounge that attracts the city’s so-
Map p247 (%617-450-9000; www.citizenpub. phisticates. Sink into the plush furniture
com; 1310 Boylston St; mains $15-23; h5pm- and sip a custom cocktail.
2am Mon-Sat, 11am-2am Sun; YFenway) This is
a modern, urban gastropub with food and EASTERN STANDARD COCKTAIL BAR
drinks for a sophisticated palate. There is Map p247 (www.easternstandardboston.com; 528
an eye-catching and daily-changing raw Commonwealth Ave; h7am-2am; YKenmore)
bar, while the selective list of main dishes Whether you choose to sit in the sophisti-
focuses on roasts and grills. The food is cated, brassy interior or on the heated pa-
top-notch, and it’s all complemented by an tio (open year-round), you’re sure to enjoy
extensive bar menu, featuring 75 varieties the upscale atmosphere at this Kenmore Sq
of whisky. favorite. French bistro fare, with a hint of
New American panache (mains $20 to $30),
caters to a pregame crowd that prefers wine
DRINKING &
6 NIGHTLIFE
and cheese to peanuts and crackerjacks.
Great people-watching on game nights.
Most bars in the vicinity of mecca BOSTON BEER WORKS BREWERY

(otherwise known as Fenway Park) cater to Map p247 (www.beerworks.net; 61 Brookline Ave;
sports fans. While many are forgettable, h11:30am-1am; YKenmore) Decked out with
a few complement and enhance the scads of TVs, which form a ring around
hysteria. the bar, this place is in a prime location –
127
directly across the street from all the ac- CLASSIC ON THE CHEAP
tion at Fenway Park. Most importantly,
there is a rotating menu of 15-plus delicious The BSO often offers various discount-
beer flavors. The slick, modern room uses ed tickets, which might allow you to
blonde-wood tones and simple trim stools hear classical music on the cheap:
to create an appealing design effect. ¨¨ Same-day ‘rush’ tickets ($9) are
available for Tuesday and Thursday
CORNWALL’S PUB evening performances (on sale from
Map p247 (www.cornwalls.com; 654 Beacon St; 5pm) as well as Friday afternoon per-
h noon-2am Mon-Sat; YKenmore) It’s not a formances (on sale from 10am).
sports bar, or a dive bar, or a cocktail bar. It’s ¨¨ Check the schedule for occasional
a pub. An English pub. You can tell it’s Eng- Open Rehearsals, which usually take
lish by the extensive list of English beers, place in the afternoon midweek. Gen-
K e n m o re Sq ua re & Fe nway E n t e r ta i n m e n t
both draft and bottled. It’s a friendly, fam- eral admission tickets are $18 to $30.
ily-run place, with board games, darts and ¨¨ Discounted tickets are offered for
pool tables to keep the drinkers entertained. certain segments of the population
(eg under 40 years = $20).
LANSDOWNE PUB IRISH PUB
¨¨ Tomorrow’s BSO musicians are
Map p247 (www.lansdownepubboston.com; 9
Lansdowne St; cover $5; h4pm-2am Mon-Fri, today’s New England Conservatory
10am-2am Sat & Sun; YKenmore) Disclaimer: musicians. NEC concerts and recitals
this place gets packed with college kids on are usually free!
weekends and on game nights. If you can
stand the happy, sweaty people, it’s a great
and downstairs. So there are two different
vibe, especially if the Sox are winning. If
entertainment options nearly every night
you’re not into baseball, maybe you’ll like
of the week, including Tantric Tuesdays,
the live-band karaoke (Thursday) or cover
Wishful Wednesdays and Throwdown
band dance parties (Friday and Saturday).
Thursdays. (Alliteration is alright!) Other
BILL’S BAR CLUB
events include karaoke, Latin night, drag
night and a hot dyke night.
Map p247 (www.billsbarboston.com; 5½ Lans-
downe St; h5pm-2am; YKenmore) The self-
dubbed Dirty Rock Club is an obligatory
stop if you’re clubbing on Lansdowne St.
3 ENTERTAINMENT
Not your first stop, though, as the scene
oBOSTON SYMPHONY
ORCHESTRA CLASSICAL MUSIC
only starts to pick up around 11pm. This
Map p247 (BSO; %617-266-1200; www.bso.org;
scrubby joint is reminiscent of the Lans-
301 Massachusetts Ave; tickets $30-115; YSym-
downe St of bygone days.
phony) Flawless acoustics match the am-
bitious programs of the world-renowned
Boston Symphony Orchestra. From Sep-
6 Fenway tember to April, the BSO performs in the
beauteous Symphony Hall (p124), featuring
PAVEMENT COFFEEHOUSE CAFE
an ornamental high-relief ceiling and at-
Map p247 (www.pavementcoffeehouseboston.
tracting a fancy-dress crowd. In summer,
com; 1096 Boylston St; h7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am- the BSO retreats to Tanglewood in Western
7pm Sat & Sun; W; YHynes) Exposed brick Massachusetts.
walls hung with art create a bohemian at-
mosphere at this coffee-lovers’ dream. Berk- BOSTON POPS CLASSICAL MUSIC
lee students and other hipsters congregate Map p247 (%617-266-1200; www.bostonpops.
for fair-trade coffee, free wi-fi and bagel org; 301 Massachusetts Ave; tickets $30-111;
sandwiches. YSymphony) Playing out of the auditorily
and visually delightful Symphony Hall, the
MACHINE GAY
Boston Pops arranges crowd-pleasers for
Map p247 (Ramrod; www.machine-boston. the orchestra to tackle. Usually this means
com; 1256 Boylston St; h10pm-2am Wed-Mon; Christmas carols, movie scores and the-
YHynes) This long-standing gay favorite matic mischief. The business is conducted
practically guarantees a fun night out, par- by the dashing Keith Lockhart, making
tially because it’s two clubs in one, upstairs Boston hearts swoon since 1995.
1 28
HUNTINGTON THEATRE
COMPANY THEATER SHOPPING FOR VINYL
Map p247 (Boston University Theatre; www.hun-
tingtontheatre.org; 264 Huntington Ave; YSym- Nuggets (Map p247; www.nuggets
phony) Boston’s leading award-winning records.com; 486 Commonwealth Ave;
theater company, the Huntington special- h11:30am-7pm Tue-Sat, noon-5pm Sun;
izes in developing new plays, staging many Y Kenmore) A little slice of ‘old’ Ken-
shows before they’re transferred to Broad- more Sq. With a constantly shifting
way (several of which have won Tonys). collection of vinyl, CDs and DVDs, Nug-
Seven major works by August Wilson were gets is a great place to browse. Many a
performed by the Huntington before going Red Sox fan has popped in on the way
on to fame in New York. The company’s cre- to Fenway and ended up carting a sack
dentials also include more than 50 world of albums to the baseball game.
K e n m o re Sq ua re & Fe nway Sp o r t s & A c t i v i t i e s
premieres of works by playwrights such as

Tom Stoppard and Christopher Durang.
the acoustically superlative Jordan Hall,
CHURCH LIVE MUSIC which dates from 1904. Admission is usu-
Map p247 (www.churchofboston.com; 69 Kilmar- ally free.
nock St; cover $10-12; h5pm-2am; YMuseum
or Kenmore) Say a prayer of thanks for this
SPORTS &
neighborhood music venue. It books cool
bands five nights a week, which is the most
2 ACTIVITIES
important thing. But it’s also stylish, with
pool tables, a pretty slick restaurant (open oFENWAY PARK BASEBALL
till midnight) and attractive people. And Map p247 (www.redsox.com; 4 Yawkey Way;
plasma TVs, of course. Music starts most bleachers $12-40, grandstand $29-78, box $50-
nights at 8pm. 75; YKenmore) From April to September you
can watch the Red Sox play at Fenway Park
HOUSE OF BLUES LIVE MUSIC (p119), the nation’s oldest and most storied
Map p247 (www.hob.com/boston; 15 Lansdowne ballpark. Unfortunately, it is also the most
St; YKenmore) The HOB is bigger and bet- expensive – not that this stops the Fen-
ter than ever. Well, it’s bigger. Never mind way faithful from scooping up the tickets.
the ridiculously tight security measures, There are sometimes game-day tickets on
this is where national acts play if they can’t sale starting 90 minutes before the open-
fill the Garden (eg the Bosstones, Dropkick ing pitch.
Murphys etc). The balcony seating offers an Head to Gate E on Lansdowne St; arrive
excellent view of the stage, while fighting early (but no earlier than five hours before
the crowds on the mezzanine can be brutal. game time) and be prepared to enter the
ballpark as soon as you purchase your tick-
MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS CINEMA ets. Otherwise, you can always get tickets in
Map p247 (www.mfa.org; 465 Huntington Ave; advance from online vendors or on game-
adult/student $11/9; YMuseum or Ruggles) If day from scalpers around Kenmore Sq. If
you packed your thinking cap, the MFA the Sox are doing well, expect to pay two
screens highbrow film events. The museum times the face value (less if you wait until
also hosts film festivals dedicated to every after the game starts).
ethnicity on the planet (Jewish, Iranian,
African, French etc) as well as a gay and JILLIAN’S & LUCKY STRIKE BOWLING
lesbian film festival and the Human Rights Map p247 (www.jilliansboston.com; 145 Ipswich
Watch film festival. St; h11am-2am Mon-Sat, noon-2am Sun; c;
YKenmore) Bowling, billiards, and gettin’
NEW ENGLAND jiggy with it. That’s what you can do at this
CONSERVATORY CLASSICAL MUSIC enormous (but usually packed), three-story
Map p247 (Jordan Hall; www.necmusic.edu; Jor- entertainment complex, which also has
dan Hall, 30 Gainsborough St; YNortheastern or seven bars and a full-service menu. On the
Symphony) F Founded in 1867, the NEC 2nd floor, the 24 pool tables are in pristine
is the country’s oldest music school. The condition. Upstairs, the high-tech bowling
conservatory hosts professional and stu- alley has only 16 flashy lanes, so it’s often
dent chamber and orchestral concerts in a long wait.
1 29
Seaport District &

South Boston
1 Spending an afternoon 2 Boarding the Boston 4 Wriggling, crawling and
at the striking waterfront Tea Party Ships (p132) and climbing on the three-story
site of the Institute of tossing crates of tea over- climbing structure at the
Contemporary Art (p131), board. Boston Children’s Museum
contemplating the artistic (p132).
curiosities on display within
3 Admiring the view and
and admiring the stun-
feasting on the creatures of 5 Sidling up to the bar at
the sea at Legal Harborside Drink (p135) for some seri-
ning harbor and city views
(p133). ous cocktail swilling.
without.
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1 30
Lonely Planet’s
Top Tip Explore Seaport District &
Thursday nights are free at South Boston
the ICA, while Friday nights
Separated from Boston proper by the jellyfish-laden Fort
at the Boston Children’s
Point Channel, the Seaport District has always afforded
Museum are only $1. The
a spectacular vista of the Boston Harbor and downtown
reduced admission is from
Boston. Now this hot district offers all kinds of opportu-
5pm to 9pm, in both cases.
nities to see and savor it.
On the east side of the Fort Point Channel, follow the
HarborWalk around the Moakley Federal Courthouse
Best Places
5 to Eat to enjoy the landscaped parks and fantastic views from
Fan Pier, eventually ending up at the Institute of Con-
¨¨ Row 34 (p133) temporary Art (ICA). Spend an afternoon admiring art
¨¨ Yankee Lobster Co (p133) and feasting on fish and you’ve got a pretty good sense
¨¨ Sam’s (p133) of what the Seaport District is all about.
Further east, the wharves are dominated by fish-
¨¨ Sportello (p133)
processing facilities and a marine industrial center. But
Se a p o rt D is tri c t & So u th Bos to n
For reviews, see p133 A change is afoot, as restaurants, bars and retail outlets
open in the new buildings. For visitors, it’s worth stroll-
ing past the Fish Pier to catch a whiff of what this area
Best Places used to be, and what it is becoming.
6 to Drink Meanwhile, the rest of South Boston remains well off
¨¨ Drink (p135)
the beaten path. Former stomping ground of Whitey
Bulger and preferred setting for Boston-based mafia
¨¨ Lucky’s Lounge (p135)
movies, ‘Southie’ lives large in local and national lore.
¨¨ Croke Park Whitey’s
Despite its reputation, South Boston has its own charm.
(p135) The waterside community offers great harbor views, as
For reviews, see p135 A well as Boston’s best city beaches. On a hot summer day,
Castle Island is a windy, welcoming waterside playscape
for families and outdoorsy types.
Best Lookout The ’hood is packed with Irish pubs, but there are also
1 Points a few notable ‘New American’ restaurants, should you
care to drink something other than Guinness or PBR.
¨¨ Founder’s Gallery in the
This area is getting a glimpse of the gentrification that
ICA (p131) has transformed other parts of the city, but Southie is
¨¨ Sam’s (p133) still unapologetically old-school.
¨¨ Legal Harborside (p133)

Local Life
¨ Drinking joint 1 You know it’s a local hangout when
they don’t bother to put a proper sign outside, as is the
case at Lucky’s Lounge (p135).
¨ Drinking joint 2 For a picture of local South Boston,
chat up the regulars at Croke Park Whitey’s (p135).

¨ Metro It’s a 10-minute walk from South Station (red
line) to the Seaport District; Broadway Station (also red
line) sits at the top of South Boston’s main street.
¨ Bus Connected to the metro system, the silver-line
bus (SL1 or SL2) travels from South Station through the
Seaport District, with stops at Courthouse, the World
Trade Center and Silver Line Way.
INSTITUTE OF CONTEMPORARY ART
LIZA VOLL PHOTOGRAPHY. IMAGE COURTESY OF ICA. ©
Boston is fast becoming a focal point for contemporary DON’T MISS

art in the 21st century, with the Institute of
Contemporary Art leading the way. The building is ¨¨ Fineberg Art Wall in
a work of art in itself – a striking glass structure the lobby
cantilevered over a waterside plaza. The spacious light- ¨¨ Peace Goddess and
filled interior allows for multimedia presentations, other powerful pieces
educational programs and studio space. More by Shepard Fairey
importantly, it provides the venue for the development ¨¨ Hanging Fire by
of the ICA’s permanent collection of 21st-century art. Cornelia Parker
Arguably, the ICA building is as much of an attraction ¨¨ View from the Foun-
as the art itself. Opened in 2006, the structure skillfully dation Gallery
incorporates its surroundings into the architecture. In
the Founders Gallery, which spans the entire width of the
building, a glass wall virtually eliminates any barrier be- PRACTICALITIES
tween viewer and seascape.
¨¨ ICA
The Mediatheque is the museum’s digital media center,
where visitors can use the computer stations to learn more ¨¨ Map p239
about featured art and artists. The terraced room also has a ¨¨ www.icaboston.org
wall of windows at the front, but the room’s unique perspec- ¨¨ 100 Northern Ave
tive shows only the dancing and rippling of water, with no ¨¨ adult/child $15/free
horizon in sight. ¨¨ h10am-5pm Tue,
In 2000 the ICA began to develop a permanent collec- Wed, Sat & Sun, to 9pm
tion. More than a decade later, the ICA now has the space Thu & Fri
to display its collection, which continues to grow. It show-
¨¨ c
cases both national and international artists, including the
¨¨ g SL1 or SL2,
likes of graffiti-artist Shepard Fairey; video artist Christian
Jankowski; photographer Boris Mikhailov; local boy Josiah Y South Station
McElhany; and sculptors Tara Donovan, Mona Hatoum and
Cornelia Parker. Look for all manner of art, from paintings
to video to multidimensional mixed-media mash-ups.
1 32
1 SIGHTS FORT POINT ARTS COMMUNITY GALLERY

Map p239 (FPAC; www.fortpointarts.org; 300
Summer St; h10am-6pm Wed-Fri; YSouth Sta-
1 Seaport District tion) F This refurbished big-windowed
warehouse is the hub of the Fort Point Arts
INSTITUTE OF Community, which contains a gallery fea-
CONTEMPORARY ART MUSEUM turing work from the talented collective.
See p131. See huge psychedelic oils, prints inspired
by 14th-century Venetian laces, lampshades
BOSTON CHILDREN’S MUSEUM MUSEUM made from birch, and mixed-media films.
Map p239 (www.bostonchildrensmuseum.org; Several times a year, FPAC hosts popular
300 Congress St; admission $14, Fri 5-9pm $1; open-studio events that allow you to see the
h10am-5pm Sat-Thu, to 9pm Fri; c ; YSouth artists’ working spaces and creations.
Station) S The interactive, educational ex-
hibits at the delightful Children’s Museum
keep kids entertained for hours. Highlights 1 South Boston
include a bubble exhibit, rock-climbing
walls, a hands-on construction site and CASTLE ISLAND & FORT
Se a p o rt D is tri c t & So u th Bos to n S i ghts
intercultural immersion experiences. The INDEPENDENCE PARK, FORT

light-filled atrium features an amazing (Marine Park; hdawn-dusk May-Sep; c; g11,
three-story climbing maze. YBroadway) F The 19th-century Fort
The museum building utilizes loads of Independence sits on 22 acres of parkland
green technology, including salvaged and called Castle Island (a misnomer, as it’s
recycled construction materials and a fuel- connected to the mainland). A paved path-
efficient heating system that incorporates a way follows the perimeter of the peninsula
green roof. Rain water run-off is collected – good for strolling or cycling – and there
and used for irrigation and plumbing. is a small swimming beach. From the Sea-
oBOSTON TEA PARTY port District, walk south on Summer St for
SHIPS & MUSEUM MUSEUM
about a half-mile, then turn left on E 1st St
Map p236 (www.bostonteapartyship.com; Con-
and continue to the waterfront.
gress St Bridge; adult/child $25/15; h10am-5pm, DORCHESTER HEIGHTS MONUMENT
last tour 4pm; c; YSouth Station) ‘Boston Har-
(btwn G & Old Harbor Sts; hdawn-dusk; g11,
bor a teapot tonight!’ To protest unfair tax-
YBroadway) High above the Boston Harbor,
es, a gang of rebellious colonists dumped
this strategic spot played a crucial role in
342 chests of tea into the water. The 1773
overcoming the British occupation. The
protest set into motion the events leading
Georgian revival tower that stands today
to the Revolutionary War. Nowadays, rep-
lica Tea Party Ships are moored at the re-
constructed Griffin’s Wharf, alongside an
excellent experiential museum dedicated to GOT MILK?
the revolution’s most catalytic event.
Visitors can board the fully rigged Elea- Up there with the Citgo sign and the
nor and the whaler Beaver to experience life Steaming Kettle, the giant Hood Milk
aboard an 18th-century vessel. Would-be re- Bottle is emblematic of Boston. Tow-
bels can throw crates of tea into the harbor, ering 40ft over Fort Point Channel, it
in solidarity with their fiery forebears. would hold 50,000 gallons of milk if
Using re-enactments, multimedia and it could hold a drop (that’s 800,000
other fun exhibits, the museum addresses glasses of milk, if anybody’s counting).
all aspects of the Boston Tea Party, as well This unlikely wooden milk bottle was
as the events that followed. To hear both built in 1934 to house an ice-cream
sides of the story, visitors can witness a vir- stand, which it did for 30-odd years
tual debate between Sam Adams and King before it was abandoned. The milk bot-
George III (though in reality they never tle was finally purchased by Hood Milk,
met). The museum’s one actual artifact – a New England’s largest and oldest dairy,
tea crate known as the Robinson Half Chest and moved to its current location in
– is highlighted with an audio presentation. 1977. It’s now back in business (in sum-
Save a couple of dollars by purchasing mer) selling sandwiches and ice cream.
tickets online.
133
was built in 1898. To reach the monument, ingman’s oyster bar’ (by working man,
walk southeast along West Broadway from they mean yuppie). Set in a sharp, post-
the T station, turn right onto Dorchester St industrial space, the place offers a dozen
and head up any of the little streets. types of raw oysters and clams, alongside
In the winter of 1776, rebel troops an amazing selection of craft beers. There’s
dragged 59 heavy cannons to Boston from also a full menu of cooked seafood, ranging
Fort Ticonderoga in upstate New York. On from the traditional to the trendy.
the night of March 4, they perched them
high atop Dorchester Heights, from where SPORTELLO ITALIAN $$
the British warships in the Harbor were at Map p239 (%617-737-1234; www.sportelloboston.
their mercy. The move caught the British com; 348 Congress St; mains $21-26; h11:30am-
completely by surprise, and ultimately con- 11pm; YSouth Station) Modern and minimal-
vinced them to abandon Boston. ist, this brainchild of Barbara Lynch fits
right into this up-and-coming urban ‘hood.
5 EATING At the sportello (lunch counter) suited yup-
pies indulge in sophisticated soups and sal-
ads and decadent polenta and pasta dishes.
5 Seaport District It’s a popular spot, which means it’s usually
Se a p o rt D is tri c t & So u th Bos to n E at i ng

a tight squeeze, but the attentive waitstaff
There was a time when hanging around ensure that everybody is comfortable and
the Seaport District meant you were eating content.
seafood, because there was no other reason
to be here. With the opening of the Boston LEGAL HARBORSIDE SEAFOOD $$
Convention & Exhibition Center and the In- Map p239 (www.legalseafoods.com; 270 North-
stitute of Contemporary Art, however, this ern Ave; mains $13-24; h11am-10pm Sun-Thu, to
district is quickly developing as a hotspot 11pm Fri & Sat; c; gSL1 or SL2, YSouth Station)
for new restaurants. This vast glass-fronted waterfront complex
offers three different restaurant concepts
YANKEE LOBSTER CO SEAFOOD $
on three floors. Our favorite is the 1st floor
Map p239 (www.yankeelobstercompany.com; – a casual restaurant and fish market that
300 Northern Ave; mains $11-20; h10am-9pm is a throwback to Legal’s original outlet
Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun; gSL1 or SL2, YSouth from 1904. The updated menu includes a
Station) The Zanti family has been fishing raw bar, small plates, seafood grills and
for three generations, so they definitely plenty of international influences (includ-
know their stuff. A relatively recent ad- ing sushi). There is outdoor seating in the
dition is this retail fish market, scattered
summer months.
with a few tables in case you want to dine
in. And you do. Order something simple like BARKING CRAB SEAFOOD $$
clam chowder or a lobster roll, along with a Map p239 (www.barkingcrab.com; 88 Sleeper
cold beer, and you will not be disappointed. St; sandwiches $9-17, mains $19-29; h11:30am-
FLOUR BAKERY, CAFE $
10pm; gSL1 or SL2, YSouth Station or Aquar-
ium) Big buckets of crabs (bairdi, king,
Map p239 (www.flourbakery.com; 12 Farnsworth
St; pastries $2-4, salads & sandwiches $8-10;
snow, Dungeness etc), steamers dripping in
h7am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm Sat, 9am-5pm
lemon and butter, paper plates piled high
Sun; v c ; YSouth Station) S Flour implores with all things fried… The food is plentiful
patrons to ‘make life sweeter…eat dessert and cheap, and you eat it at communal pic-
first!’ It’s hard to resist at this pastry-lover’s nic tables overlooking the water. Beer flows
paradise. If you can’t decide – and it can be freely. Service is slack, but the atmosphere
a challenge – go for the melt-in-your-mouth is jovial. Be prepared to wait for a table if
sticky buns; delicious sandwiches, soups, the weather is warm.
salads and pizzas are also available.
SAM’S MODERN AMERICAN $$$
oROW 34 SEAFOOD $$
Map p239 (%617-295-0191; www.samsatlouis.
com; 22 Liberty Dr; sandwiches $13-18, mains
Map p239 (%617-553-5900; www.row34.com;
$22-30; h11:30am-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri &
383 Congress St; oysters $2-3, lunch mains $13-
Sat, to 9pm Sun; pWv; gSL1 or SL2, YSouth
18, dinner $21-28; h11:30am-10pm Mon-Fri,
Station) Unarguably, the highlight of Sam’s
5-10pm Sat & Sun; YSouth Station) In the heart
of the new Seaport District, this is a ‘work- is the three walls of windows, yielding a
134
COLUMBIA POINT
Columbia Point juts into the harbor south of the city center in Dorchester, one of Bos-
ton’s rougher neighborhoods. The location is unexpected, but it does offer dramatic
views of the sea. It’s a four-mile stroll or ride along the HarborWalk between Castle
Island and Columbia Point. Otherwise, take the red line to JFK/UMass and catch a
free shuttle bus (departures every 20 minutes) to Columbia Point.
John F Kennedy Library & Museum (www.jfklibrary.org; Columbia Point; adult/child
$14/10; h9am-5pm; YJFK/UMass) The legacy of JFK is ubiquitous in Boston, but the
official memorial to the 35th president is the presidential library and museum – a
striking, modern, marble building designed by IM Pei. The architectural centerpiece is
the glass pavilion, with soaring 115ft ceilings and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking
Boston Harbor. The museum is a fitting tribute to JFK’s life and legacy. The effective use
of video recreates history for visitors who may or may not remember the early 1960s. A
highlight is the museum’s treatment of the Cuban Missile Crisis: a short film explores
the dilemmas and decisions that the president faced.
Se a p o rt D is tri c t & So u th Bos to n E at i ng
Edward Kennedy Institute for the US Senate (EMK Institute; www.emkinstitute.org;

Columbia Point; adult/child $16/8; h9am-5pm Tue-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun; YJKF/UMass) Ted
Kennedy served in the US Senate for nearly half a century. It is fitting, therefore, that
his legacy should include an institute and museum designed to teach the public about
the inner workings of democracy. Brand new in 2015, this state-of-the-art facility uses
advanced technology, multimedia exhibits and interactive designs to engage visitors
and demonstrate the functioning (and sometimes non-functioning) of the legislative
process. The museum centerpiece is a full-scale replica of the Senate chamber.
Exhibits cover how a bill becomes a law (‘I’m just a bill… and I’m sitting here on Capitol
Hill…’), the great debates and accomplishments of the Senate in history, contempo-
rary hot topics, and ways for concerned citizens to get involved.
Commonwealth Museum (% 617-727-9268; www.commonwealthmuseum.org; 220
Morrissey Blvd, Columbia Point; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat & Sun May-Oct; YJFK/
UMass) The Commonwealth Museum exhibits documents dating to the early days of
colonization. The permanent exhibit, Our Common Wealth, uses interactive multime-
dia technologies to trace the history of the colony and state using the rich materials
from the on-site Massachusetts Archives. Tracing our Roots, explores the state’s
heritage following four families: Native American, English, African American and Irish.
180-degree view of city and sea. A chrome

and leather, post-industrial decor comple- 5 South Boston
ments the spectacular view. In summer,
there’s patio seating. It’s a delightfully SULLIVAN’S FAST FOOD $
casual-chic place, with an interesting, inno- (www.sullivanscastleisland.com; 1080 Day Blvd;
vative menu to match. Live music on Friday mains $3-10; h8:30am-10pm Mar-Nov; c; g11,
nights. Lots of small plates on offer. YBroadway) A Southie tradition since 1951,
Sullivan’s is beloved for hotdogs in the cas-
MENTON FRENCH, ITALIAN $$$ ing, known as ‘Sully’s snappers.’ In 60-plus
Map p239 (%617-737-0099; www.mentonboston. years of business, the price of those dogs
com; 354 Congress St; 4-course prix-fixe dinner has increased by more than 10 times – mak-
$95; h5:30-10pm Mon-Sat, to 9pm Sun; YSouth ing them a whopping $1.90.
Station) Boston’s favorite celebrity chef
Barbara Lynch has outdone herself at this LOCAL 149 MODERN AMERICAN $$
high-class conglomeration of classic Euro- (www.local149.com; 149 P St; mains $16-22; h4-
pean cuisine and modern American inno- 10pm Mon-Thu, 11am-11pm Fri-Sun, bar to 1am;
vation. She has set her latest venture in a g11, YBroadway) Southie’s first gastropub
revamped warehouse in the edgy, eclectic puts a curious, local-with-a-Southern-twist
Seaport District. on things, which might catch you off guard.
135
But why wouldn’t you want a lobster Mac-
Muffin for brunch or fried chicken and
3 ENTERTAINMENT
waffles for dinner? Besides the interesting LAUGH BOSTON COMEDY
menu, there is a great beer list, including Map p239 (www.laughboston.com; 425 Sum-
nearly 20 selections on draft. mer St; admission $8-25; htimes vary Wed-Sun;
gSL1 or SL2, YSouth Station) The funny guys
over at Improv Asylum decided that Boston
DRINKING &
6 NIGHTLIFE
needed a few more laughs, so they opened
this premier, stand-up comedy club in the
Westin Hotel. The place has a swanky, hap-
py atmosphere, and there are shows sched-
6 Seaport District uled five nights a week.
oDRINK COCKTAIL BAR INSTITUTE OF CONTEMPORARY

Map p239 (www.drinkfortpoint.com; 348 Con- ART CINEMA, PERFORMING ARTS
gress St; h4pm-1am; gSL1 or SL2, YSouth Map p239 (ICA; www.icaboston.org; 100 Northern
Station) There is no cocktail menu at Drink. Ave; gSL1 or SL2, YSouth Station) The Bar-
Instead you have a little chat with the barbara Lee Family Foundation Theater is one
Se a p o rt D is tri c t & So u th Bos to n D r i nk i ng & N i ghtl i fe

tender, and he or she will whip something of the ICA’s coolest features. With wooden
up according to your specifications. floor and ceiling and glass walls, the two-
story venue is an extension of the board-
LUCKY’S LOUNGE COCKTAIL BAR
walk outside. It’s a remarkable backdrop
Map p239 (www.luckyslounge.com; 355 Con-
for edgy theater, dance, music and other
gress St; h11am-2am Sun-Fri, 6pm-2am Sat;
performance art.
gSL1 or SL2, YSouth Station) One of Boston’s
top-notch bars, Lucky’s earns street cred
by having no sign to speak of. Step into a BLUE HILLS BANK PAVILION LIVE MUSIC
delightfully gritty lounge that looks like Map p239 (www.bluehillsbank.com; 290 Northern
it’s straight out of 1959. Enjoy well-priced Ave; gSL1 or SL2, YSouth Station) A white sail-
drinks, excellent martinis and cover bands like tent with sweeping harbor views, this is
playing tunes (Thursday to Sunday). a great venue for summer concerts. It seats
about 5000 people, so you can actually see
HARPOON BREWERY the smiling faces of the performers.
& BEER HALL BREWERY
Map p239 (www.harpoonbrewery.com; 306
Northern Ave; tours $5; hbeer hall 11am-7pm
Sun-Wed, to 11pm Thu-Sat, tours noon-5pm Sun- 7 SHOPPING
Wed, to 6pm Thu-Sat; gSL1 or SL2, YSouth Sta- MADE IN FORT POINT HANDICRAFTS
tion) This brewery is the largest beer facility Map p239 (www.fortpointarts.org; 315 A St;
in the state. Take a tour (hourly) to see how h11am-6pm Mon-Fri, noon-4pm Sat; gSL1 or
the beer is made and to sample some of the SL2, YSouth Station) This little boutique
goods. Or just take a seat at the bar in the is the retail outlet for the Fort Point Arts
beer hall and watch the action from above. Community (p132). Not exactly a gallery,
it is more like a gift shop, featuring jew-
elry, prints, photographs, T-shirts, pottery,
6 South Boston housewares and other cool, creative stuff.
Head deeper into South Boston for an au-
thentic Boston Irish experience. Pubs ga-
SPORTS &
lore line E and W Broadway.
2 ACTIVITIES
CROKE PARK WHITEY’S DIVE BAR
(268 W Broadway; YBroadway) Whitey’s is eve- CARSON BEACH BEACH
rything a dive bar is supposed to be, with (Day Blvd; hdawn-dusk; c; g11, YBroadway)
cheap beer, free pool, free popcorn and a Heading west from Castle Island, 3 miles of
cast of colorful local characters propping beaches offer opportunities for swimming
up the bar. This is old-school Southie, and in an urban setting. L and M St beaches
it’s not nearly as scary as it’s made out to be are adjacent to each other along Day Blvd,
in the movies. while Carson Beach is further west.
1 36
Seafood Capital
Nowadays, one can eat seafood anywhere Chowder
in the world, even when the sea is Ask 10 locals for Boston’s best chowder
hundreds of miles away. So what’s so and you’ll get 10 different answers. This
special about seafood in Boston? As one thick, cream-based soup is chock-full of
local restaurant used to boast, ‘the fish clams or fish, although clam chowder,
is so fresh it jumps out of the water and using the meaty insides of giant surf
onto your plate.’ This means the texture clams, is more prevalent.
is preserved and the flavor is enhanced.
And a view of the harbor or a breeze off Clams & Oysters
the water makes it all the more delectable. Many seafood restaurants showcase
their shellfish at a raw bar, where a
dedicated bartender works to shuck
BEST PLACES oysters and clams to be served on the
FOR CLAM CHOWDER half-shell. Any self-respecting raw bar will
have a selection of hard-shelled clams,
¨¨ Legal Harborside (p133) or ‘quahogs,’ including littlenecks and
¨¨ Island Creek Oyster Bar (p128) cherrystones. The most famous type of
¨¨ Neptune Oyster (p62) oysters are Wellfleet oysters from Cape
¨¨ Union Oyster House (p86) Cod; they’re eaten raw, with a dollop of
cocktail sauce and a few drops of lemon
¨¨ Barking Crab (p133)
1 37
JOY BROWN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
LOU JONES/GETTY IMAGES ©

1. New England clam
chowder ‒ a Boston
EX0RZIST/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
specialty
2. Buying oysters at
Union Oyster House
(p86)
3. Lobster ‒ Boston’s
favorite crustacean
juice. For a raw-bar experience, head to hot-dog roll. Either way, you can’t go
Row 34 (p133) or Neptune Oyster (p62). wrong at Yankee Lobster Co (p133).
You can also get clams deep-fried Lobster also makes a decadently
(great hangover food) or steamed (aka delicious bisque, and it’s downright sinful
‘steamers’). They also get tossed into when tossed into pasta, such as lobster
spicy seafood stew, like that served at mac ‘n’ cheese (again, try the Yankee
Giacomo’s Ristorante (p62). Lobster Co) or lobster fra diavolo (try
Daily Catch; p62).
Lobster
Back in the day, the seemingly endless Fish
supply of lobster was the food of poor Atlantic codfish has played such an
people and prisoners. Times have important role in the region’s culture and
changed; seafood lovers now pay big economy that it is known as the ‘sacred
bucks for the crustaceans. Traditionally, cod,’ and a carved wooden effigy hangs
lobsters are steamed or boiled, then it’s up in the Massachusetts State House. Cod,
to the patron to crack the shell to get the haddock, hake and other white-fleshed
succulent meat out. A less labor-intensive fish are sometimes called ‘scrod.’ Other
choice is a lobster roll, where the lobster fresh local fishes appearing on Boston
meat is dressed with a little mayonnaise menus in summer include bluefin tuna,
and stuffed into a grilled, buttered bluefish and striped bass.
138
Cambridge
HARVARD SQUARE | CENTRAL & KENDALL SQUARES

1 Browsing the book- 2 Cycling the Minute- 4 Exploring the MIT cam-
stores, rifling through the man Bikeway (p153) from pus (p141) and discovering
records and trying on vin- urban Cambridge to idyllic its fantastic, eclectic collec-
tage clothing in Harvard Sq Bedford. tion of public art.
(p151), then camping out in
a local cafe (preferably with 3 Checking out the varied 5 Strolling around the Mt
sidewalk seating) to watch collection and superb archi- Auburn Cemetery (p143)
the world go by. tecture at the Harvard Art in search of famous grave-
Museums (p142). stones, impressive artwork
and elusive birds.
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1 39
Lonely Planet’s
Explore Cambridge Top Tip
Here, we count Cambridge as one among many ‘neigh- The Harvard Bookstore
borhoods’ in Boston. But truth be told, this independent (p152) hosts lectures, au-
town has the historical and cultural offerings to rival thor talks and book readings
many major cities. Certainly, it matches Boston for qual- almost every night, Monday
ity (if not quantity) and diversity of drinking, dining and to Friday, presenting a cool
entertainment options. Exploring museums, historic opportunity to hobnob with
sites and university landmarks, you could just as easily local writers and scholars.
spend a day as spend a year.
Much of life in Cambridge is centered on the univer-
sities – Harvard and MIT – each of which occupies its Best Places
respective corner of town, with restaurants, shops and
5 to Eat
clubs clustered around each campus. If you have limited ¨¨ Alden & Harlow (p146)
time in Cambridge, you’ll probably want to choose one ¨¨ Clover Food Lab (p143)
or the other, as there is plenty of activity around either
¨¨ Life Alive (p146)
campus to fill a day. (Harvard or MIT…? Harvard or
¨¨ Hungry Mother (p147)
MIT…? Now you know what it’s like for the brainiacs
who have to decide where they want to go to school.) For reviews, see p143 A
Both universities offer excellent (free) campus tours
– Harvard is packed with history, while MIT boasts a
wealth of public art and innovative architecture. Both Best Places
6 to Drink
Ca m bri d g e
universities have interesting and unusual museums
showcasing cutting-edge art and science. Both universi-
¨¨ Café Pamplona (p147)
ties have excellent dining and entertainment options in
their vicinities. So take your pick. ¨¨ Beat Hotel (p147)
All that said, only Harvard has Harvard Sq. Over- ¨¨ Green Street Grill (p148)
flowing with coffee houses and pubs, bookstores and ¨¨ State Park (p148)
record stores, street musicians and sidewalk artists, ¨¨ LA Burdick (p147)
panhandlers and professors, Harvard Sq exudes energy,
creativity and nonconformity – and it’s all packed into a For reviews, see p147 A
handful of streets between the university and the river.
Even if you have your heart set on exploring MIT and its
Best University
environs, it’s worth setting aside a few hours to hang out
up the road in Harvard Sq.
1 Museums
¨¨ Harvard Art Museums
(p142)
Local Life ¨¨ MIT Museum (p141)
¨¨ Harvard Museum of
¨ Student bars Local life is student life. To see it in
action go to Shay’s Pub (p147) in Harvard Sq. Natural History (p142)
¨ Campus corners JFK Park is a favorite local spot for ¨¨ Peabody Museum of
picnics, dogs and Frisbee, while the area outside the Archaeology & Ethnology
MIT Stratton Center attracts students and pigeons. (p142)
¨ Sidewalk seating The sidewalk cafe at the Smith For reviews, see p14A
Campus Center (p144) gives a front-row seat to watch
the buskers, beggers, chess-players, good-deed-doers
and other Harvard Sq hullabaloo.

¨Metro Take the red line to Harvard station for
Harvard Sq, Central station for Central Sq and Kendall/
MIT for Kendall Sq.
140
HARVARD YARD
JANNIS TOBIAS WERNER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Founded in 1636 to educate men for the ministry, DON’T MISS
Harvard is America’s oldest college. The original Ivy
League school has eight graduates who went on to ¨¨ Free campus tours
be US presidents, not to mention dozens of Nobel from the Harvard
Laureates and Pulitzer Prize winners. It educates Information Center
6500 undergraduates and about 12,000 graduates (Map p250; % 617-495-
yearly in 10 professional schools. The geographic 1573; www.harvard.edu/
heart of Harvard University is Harvard Yard. visitors; 1350 Massachu-
setts Ave; h9am-5pm
Massachusetts Hall & Harvard Hall Mon-Sat), inside the
Flanking Johnston Gate are the two oldest buildings on Smith Campus Center.
campus. South of the gate, Massachusetts Hall houses the ¨¨ Cambridge Open
offices of the President of the University. Dating to 1720, it Market – an art market
is the oldest building at Harvard and the oldest academ- on the plaza in front of
ic building in the country. North is Harvard Hall, which the Science Center –
dates to 1766 and originally housed the library. on Friday afternoons in
July and August.
John Harvard Statue
The focal point of the yard is the John Harvard statue,
where every Harvard hopeful has a photo taken (and PRACTICALITIES
touches the statue’s shiny shoe for good luck). Daniel Ches-
¨¨ Map p250
ter French’s sculpture, inscribed ‘John Harvard, Founder
¨¨ www.harvard.edu
of Harvard College, 1638,’ is known as the statue of three
lies: it does not actually depict Harvard (since no image of ¨¨ Massachusetts Ave
him exists), but a random student; John Harvard was not ¨¨ tours free
the founder of the college, but its first benefactor in 1638; ¨¨ h tours hourly 10am-
and the college was actually founded two years earlier in 3pm Mon-Sat
1636. The Harvard symbol hardly lives up to the univer- ¨¨ Y Harvard
sity’s motto, Veritas (‘Truth’).
141
MASSACHUSETTS INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY

SONGQUAN DENG/GETTY IMAGES ©
The Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) DON’T MISS

offers a completely novel perspective on Cambridge
academia: proudly nerdy, but not quite as tweedy as ¨¨ Campus tours,
Harvard. A recent frenzy of building has resulted in departing from MIT
some of the most architecturally intriguing structures Information Center at
you’ll find on either side of the river. 11am and 3pm, Mon-
Leave it to the mischievous brainiacs at MIT to come day to Friday.
up with the city’s quirkiest museum – the MIT Museum ¨¨ MIT’s signature
(Map p252; www.web.mit.edu/museum; 265 Massachusetts Ave; sculpture, La Grande
adult/child $10/5; h10am-6pm Jul & Aug, to 5pm Sep-Jun; p c ; Voile by Alexander
YCentral). You can meet humanoid robots such as obser- Calder
vant Cog and personable Kismet and decide for yourself ¨¨ Henry Moore’s
if they are smarter than humans. Another highlight: the bronze reclining
fantastic Jeweled Net, drawing on the world’s largest figures
exhibit of holograms. ¨¨ Stata Center
The stated goal of the List Visual Arts Center (Map
p252; http://listart.mit.edu; 20 Ames St, Weisner Bldg; donation $5;
h noon-6pm Tue, Wed & Fri-Sun, to 8pm Thu; YKendall/MIT) is to PRACTICALITIES
explore the boundaries of artistic inquiry – to use art to
¨¨ MIT
ask questions about culture, society and science. Rotating
exhibits push the contemporary-art envelope in painting, ¨¨ Map p252
sculpture, photography and video. This is also where you ¨¨ www.mit.edu
can pick up a map of MIT’s public art, proof enough that ¨¨ 77 Massachusetts
this university supports artistic as well as technological in- Ave
novation. If you want a professional opinion, book a free ¨¨ Y Kendall/MIT
tour. Of all the funky buildings on the MIT campus, none
has received more attention than the Stata Center (CSAIL;
Map p252; www.csail.mit.edu; 32 Vassar St; YKendall/MIT) S, an avant-garde edifice that was
designed by architectural legend Frank Gehry.
142
1 SIGHTS Piano has overseen a renovation and ex-

pansion of Harvard’s art museums, allow-
ing the university’s massive 250,000-piece
1 Harvard Square collection to come together under one very
stylish roof. Harvard’s art spans the globe,
HARVARD YARD UNIVERSITY with separate collections devoted to Asian
See p140. and Islamic cultures (formerly the Arthur
M Sackler Museum), Northern European
CHRIST CHURCH CHURCH and Germanic cultures (formerly the
Map p250 (www.cccambridge.org; 0 Garden St; Busch-Reisinger Museum) and other West-
hservices 7:45am & 10:15am Sun; YHarvard) ern art, especially European modernism
Cambridge’s oldest church was designed in (formerly the Fogg).
1761 by America’s first formally trained ar-
chitect, Peter Harrison (who also designed HARVARD MUSEUM OF
King’s Chapel in Boston). Washington’s NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM
troops used it as a barracks after its Tory Map p250 (www.hmnh.harvard.edu; 26 Oxford St;
congregation fled. Adjacent to the church, adult/child $12/8; h9am-5pm; c; g86, YHar-
the Old Burying Ground is a tranquil rev- vard) This esteemed institution is famed for
olutionary-era cemetery, where Harvard’s its botanical galleries, featuring more than
first eight presidents are buried. 3000 lifelike pieces of handblown glass
flowers and plants. At the intersection of
CAMBRIDGE COMMON PARK art and science, the collection of intricately
Map p250 (cnr Massachusetts Ave & Garden St; crafted flora is truly amazing. Nearby, the
YHarvard) Opposite the main entrance to zoological galleries house an unbelievable
Ca m bri d g e S ights
Harvard Yard, Cambridge Common is the number of stuffed animals and reassembled
village green where General Washington skeletons, as well as an impressive fossil col-
took command of the Continental Army on lection. Other cool exhibits feature climate
July 3, 1775. The traffic island at the south change, sparkling gemstones and arthro-
end, known as Dawes Island, pays tribute to pods (yes, cockroaches).
the ‘other rider,’ William Dawes, who rode The price of admission includes entry
through here on April 18, 1775, to warn that into the Peabody Museum of Archaeol-
the British were coming (look for the bronze ogy & Ethnology, which is in the same
hoofprints embedded in the sidewalk). building.
The excellent playground at the north-
PEABODY MUSEUM OF
ern end features a Viking ship, a climbing
ARCHAEOLOGY & ETHNOLOGY MUSEUM
web and plenty of water play.
Map p250 (www.peabody.harvard.edu; 11 Divinity
oHARVARD ART MUSEUMS MUSEUM
Ave; adult/child $12/8; h9am-5pm; c; g 86,
YHarvard) The centerpiece of the Peabody is
Map p250 (www.harvardartmuseums.org; 32
the impressive Hall of the North American
Quincy St; adult/child $15/free; h10am-5pm;
Indian, which traces how native peoples
YHarvard) Architect extraordinaire Renzo
CAR TALK
Tom and Ray Magliozzi were never your typical auto-repair guys, nor were they your
typical public radio fare. ‘Click and Clack, the Tappett Brothers’ were East Cambridge
natives and MIT graduates. For 35 years, they led listeners under the hood and un-
raveled the mysteries of internal gas combustion, while engaging in nonstop playful
banter and sibling rivalry.
At their peak, Car Talk was heard by more than four million listeners on over 700
radio stations each week. The show inspired an animated TV series and a musical.
And it’s credited with changing the character of public radio.
In Cambridge, it was unanimously declared the end of an era when the Car Talk
guys retired in 2012. And when Tom Magliozzi died in 2014, the city mourned. But
the Best of Car Talk continues to be broadcast on public radio; and crack-ups Click
and Clack will not soon be forgotten. Nor will their sage advice: ‘Don’t drive like my
brother. Don’t drive like my brother.’
143
responded to the arrival of Europeans from oMT AUBURN CEMETERY CEMETERY
the 15th to the 18th centuries. Other exhib- (www.mountauburn.org; 580 Mt Auburn St;
its examine indigenous cultures through- h8am-7pm May-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Apr; c ; g71 or
out the Americas, including a fantastic 73, YHarvard) F This delightful spot at
comparison of cave paintings and murals of the end of Brattle St is worth the 30-minute
the Awatovi (New Mexico), the Maya (Gua- walk west from Harvard Sq. Developed in
temala) and the Moche (Peru). 1831, it was the first ‘garden cemetery’ in the
The price of admission includes entry to US. Maps pinpoint the rare botanical speci-
the neighboring Harvard Museum of Natu- mens and notable burial plots. Famous long-
ral History. term residents include Mary Baker Eddy
(founder of the Christian Science Church),
COLLECTION OF HISTORICAL
Isabella Stewart Gardner (socialite and art
SCIENTIFIC INSTRUMENTS MUSEUM
collector), Winslow Homer (19th-century
Map p250 (www.chsi.harvard.edu; 1 Oxford St; American painter), Oliver Wendell Holmes
h9am-5pm Mon-Fri; YHarvard) F Science (US Supreme Court Justice) and Henry W
lovers and history buffs can geek out at this Longfellow (19th-century writer).
small but fascinating museum. Located
inside the Harvard Science Center, it show-
cases a selection of the 20,000 items in the
university collection, some of which date
1 Central & Kendall
to the 15th century. Look for the geometric Squares
sector designed by Galileo, and the clocks
MASSACHUSETTS
illustrating the development of modern
INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY UNIVERSITY
Ca m bri d g e E ating
timekeeping. The collection was actually
See p141.
compiled by one Benjamin Franklin, so add
that to his resume.
The exhibition is housed on three floors.
The 1st-floor Putnam Gallery actually
opens later than the others, so start up-
5 EATING
stairs if you arrive before 11am.
LONGFELLOW HOUSE HISTORIC BUILDING

5 Harvard Square
Map p250 (www.nps.gov/long; 105 Brattle St; Harvard Sq has coffeehouses, sandwich
htours 9:30am-4:30pm Wed-Sun Jun-Oct, shops, ethnic eateries and upscale restau-
grounds dawn-dusk year-round; g71 or 73, rants to suit every budget and taste. There
YHarvard) F Brattle St’s most famous is also a decent food court in the mini-mall
resident was Henry Wadsworth Longfel- known as the Garage (p145).
low, whose stately manor is now a National
Historic Site. The poet lived here for 45 oCLOVER FOOD LAB VEGETARIAN $
years, from 1837 to 1882, writing many of Map p250 (www.cloverfoodlab.com; 7 Holyoke
his most famous poems including Evange- St; mains $6-7; h7am-midnight Mon-Sat, to 7pm
line and The Song of Hiawatha. Accessible Sun; Wv c; YHarvard) S Clover is on the
by guided tour, the Georgian mansion con- cutting edge. It’s all high-tech with its ‘live’
tains many of Longfellow’s belongings as menu updates and electronic ordering sys-
well as lush period gardens. tem. But it’s really about the food – local,
Incidentally, one reason Longfellow was seasonal, vegetarian food – that is cheap,
so taken with this house was its histori- delicious and fast. How fast? Check the
cal significance. During the Revolutionary menu. Interesting tidbit: Clover started as
War, General Washington appropriated a food truck (and still has a few trucks mak-
this beauty from its absent Loyalist owner ing the rounds).
and used it as his headquarters.
DARWIN’S LTD SANDWICHES $
TORY ROW STREET
Map p250 (www.darwinsltd.com; 148 Mt Auburn
Map p250 (Brattle St; YHarvard) Heading west St; mains $8-12; h6:30am-9pm; Wv c; YHar-
out of Harvard Sq, Brattle St is the epitome vard) Punky staff serve fat sandwiches,
of colonial posh. Lined with mansions that fresh soup and salads, and delicious cof-
were once home to royal sympathizers, the fee and pastries, all with a generous help-
street earned the nickname Tory Row. ing of attitude. The limited seating is often
144
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22 Local Life
Offbeat Harvard Square
Harvard Sq is overflowing with cafes, bookstores, record shops and street
musicians. Although many Cantabrigians rightly complain that the area has lost
its edge, Harvard Sq still has a thriving counterculture, if you know where to look.
1 The Pit counted ‘seconds’ in the basement. Next

Start your tour in the center of Harvard Sq, door, Grolier Poetry Bookshop (Map p250;
where Out of Town News (p153) has been www.grolierpoetrybookshop.org; 6 Plympton
selling newspapers and magazines from St; h11am-7pm Tue & Wed, to 6pm Thu-Sat;
around the world since 1955. The sunken Y Harvard) is the oldest – and perhaps
area nearby, aka ‘the Pit,’ is a popular spot most famous – poetry bookstore in the US.
for street artists, skateboarders and coun- Through the years, TS Eliot, ee cummings,
terculture youth to congregate. Marianne Moore and Allen Ginsberg have all
passed through these doors.
2 Smith Campus Center
The sidewalk cafe in front of the Smith 4 Café Pamplona
Campus Center (Map p250; www.harvard. For sustenance, make your way to this
edu/visitors; 1350 Massachusetts Ave; h9am- hidden gem. This no-frills European cafe
5pm Mon-Sat; YHarvard) has hosted an (p147) in a cozy cellar has been serving
ongoing chess tournament for 30 years coffee and tea to Cantabrigian bohemians
and counting – look for the ‘Play the Chess- since 1959.
master’ sign. It also offers a front-row seat
to watch the buskers, beggars and other 5 In Your Ear
IYE (Map p250; www.iye.com; 72 Mt Auburn St;
Harvard Sq hullabaloo.
h11am-7pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; Y Har-
3 Harvard Bookstore vard) is located in the basement of a Har-
The Harvard Bookstore (p152) is not just a vard social club. It’s totally disorganized,
bookstore, but a reading community. Come dusty and crammed with LPs and 45s, as
in to browse the stacks and check out dis- well as CDs, DVDs and even eight-tracks.
145
occupied by students who are in for the long
haul (thanks to wi-fi access). So unless you
PHOTO.ZOOMMER.RU/ALAMY ©
intend to surf, take your lunch out to enjoy

JFK Park or Radcliffe Yard to enjoy.
MR BARTLEY’S
BURGER COTTAGE BURGERS $
Map p250 (www.mrbartley.com; 1246 Massachu-
setts Ave; burgers $10-15; h11am-9pm Mon-Sat;
c ; YHarvard) Packed with small tables and
hungry college students, this burger joint
has been a Harvard Sq institution for more
than 50 years. Bartley’s offers at least 40
different burgers; sweet-potato fries, onion
rings, thick frappés and raspberry-lime
rickeys complete the classic American meal.
Be aware that this place is old-school: credit
cards not accepted; no bathroom on site.
CAMBRIDGE, 1 PIZZA $$
Map p250 (www.cambridge1.us; 27 Church St; piz-
zas $10-23; h11:30am-midnight; v; YHarvard)
Set in the old fire station, this pizzeria’s
name comes from the sign chiseled into the
stonework out front. The interior is sleek,
Bookstore near Harvard Square sparse and industrial, with big windows
overlooking the Old Burying Ground in the
back. The menu is equally simple: pizza,
soup, salad, dessert. These oddly shaped
6 The Garage pizzas are delectable, with crispy crusts and
This gritty mini-mall (Map p250; 36 John creative topping combos.
F Kennedy St; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, to
10pm Sun; YHarvard) – formerly a parking RUSSELL HOUSE
garage – houses an eclectic collection of TAVERN MODERN AMERICAN $$
offbeat shops. Try on sweet streetwear Map p250 (www.russellhousecambridge.com;

at Kulturez, listen to tunes at Newbury 14 John F Kennedy St; mains lunch $12-16, din-
Comics, or get some ink at Chameleon ner $19-26; h11am-1am Mon-Fri, 10am-1am Sat
Tattoo & Body Piercing. & Sun; YHarvard) Smack dab in the middle
of Harvard Sq, this attractive gastropub
7 Raven Used Books has a classy, classic atmosphere, enhanced
Tucked into a tiny basement, Raven (Map by good-looking, effervescent patrons. The
p250; www.ravencambridge.com; 52 John menu includes a raw bar and a list of in-
F Kennedy St; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11am- triguing but irresistible small plates, not to
8pm Sun; YHarvard) knows its audience: mention a well-selected all-American wine
its 14,000 books focus on scholarly titles, list and killer cocktails.
especially in the liberal arts.
NIGHT MARKET ASIAN $$
8 Brattle Square Map p250 (www.nightmkt.com; 75 Winthrop St;
A few steps from the historic Brattle dishes $6-12; h11:30am-2pm Thu & Fri, 5-10pm
Theatre (p149), this intersection is a Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; v) All of Boston is
main stage for street performers. Tracy talking about this super-hip subterranean
Chapman played here in the 1980s and spot, serving up skewers, noodles and other
Amanda Palmer was a living statue here smallish servings that you might find at an
in the 1990s. Puppeteer Igor Fokin also Asian market. There’s an interesting selec-
put on shows here until his unexpected tion of beers, as well as irresistible sake
death in 1996. Look for the bronze me- slushies. The food gets mixed reviews for
morial marionette, erected ‘in celebra- consistency and authenticity, but every-
tion of all street performers.’ one loves the clever concept, the graffiti-
covered walls and the spot-on service.
146
oALDEN & HARLOW MODERN AMERICAN $$$ VEGGIE GALAXY DINER $
Map p250 (%617-864-2100; www.aldenharlow. Map p252 (www.veggiegalaxy.com; 450 Massa-

com; 40 Brattle St; small plates $9-17; h5pm- chusetts Ave; mains $8-15; h7am-10pm Mon-Fri,
1am Sun-Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat; v; YHarvard) 9am-10pm Sat & Sun; v c ; YCentral) What
This spanking-new place in a cozy subter- does the word ‘diner’ mean to you? All-day
ranean space is offering a brand-new take breakfast? Check. Burgers and milkshakes?
on American cooking. The small plates Check. Counter seating and comfy booths?
are made for sharing, so everyone in your Got those, too. A circular glass display case
party gets to sample. And you will want to showing off desserts? Yes, complete with
sample, because these local ingredients are tangy, delicious lemon meringue pie. In
prepared in ways you’ve never seen before. short, Veggie Galaxy does everything that
By the way, it’s no secret that the ‘Secret a diner is supposed to do, but they do it
Burger’ is amazing. without meat. There’s also an amazing ve-
gan bakery – now that’s going above and
beyond diner duty!
5 Central & Kendall FRIENDLY TOAST DINER $
Squares Map p252 (www.thefriendlytoast.com; 1 Kend-

all Sq; mains $8-12; h8am-10pm Sun-Thu, to
oLIFE ALIVE VEGETARIAN $ midnight Fri & Sat; v c ; YKendall/MIT) Some
Map p252 (www.lifealive.com; 765 Massachusetts people think that this retro funky diner is
Ave; mains $8-10; h8am-10pm Mon-Sat, 11am- one of the best places to eat breakfast in the
7pm Sun; v c ; YCentral) S Life Alive offers entire country. (Yes, the toast really is that
a joyful, healthful, purposeful approach friendly.) Decadent delights such as pump-

to fast food. The unusual combinations of kin pancakes and loads of vegetarian and
ingredients yield delicious results, most vegan options have hungry folks lining up
of which come in a bowl (like a salad) or out the door for weekend brunch.
in a wrap. There are also soups, sides and But here’s the bonus: breakfast isn’t just
smoothies, all served in a funky, colorful, for breakfast anymore. At the Friendly
light-filled space. Toast, it’s served all day long, along with
In addition to all the feel-good, there’s burgers, burritos and more.
also a cozy, kiddie play space downstairs.
MIRACLE OF SCIENCE
So your children will feel good, too.
BAR & GRILL AMERICAN $
BON ME VIETNAMESE $ Map p252 (www.miracleofscience.us; 321 Mas-

Map p252 (www.bonmetruck.com; 1 Kendall Sq; sachusetts Ave; mains $10-14; h11am-midnight;
mains $6-7; h11am-8pm Mon-Thu, to 9pm Fri YCentral) With all the decor of your high-
& Sat; YKendall/MIT) Bon Me started as a school science lab, this bar and grill was a
food truck that catered to the Kendall Sq pioneer of chic-geek. The menu takes the
crowd, and you’ll still see the trucks tooling form of the periodic table posted on the
around town. This little storefront sells the wall, so you get the idea. Join the MIT wan-
same, simple, fresh, insanely good Vietnam- nabes for burgers, kabobs and other grilled
ese fare. Choose your dish (sandwich, rice fare, as well as a choice selection of beers
or noodles). Choose your filling (chicken, on tap.
pork or tofu). Choose your extras (edama-
EMMA’S PIZZA PIZZA $$
me, papaya, greens or deviled eggs). Eat up
Map p252 (www.emmaspizza.com; 40 Hampshire
and enjoy!
St; sandwiches $6-9, pizzas $12-20; h11:30am-
TOSCANINI’S ICE CREAM $ 10pm Mon-Fri, 4-10pm Sat, 3-9pm Sun; v;
Map p252 (www.tosci.com; 899 Main St; ice cream YKendall/MIT) Before or after a flick at the
from $4; h8am-11pm Mon-Fri, 9am-11pm Sat & nearby Kendall Sq Cinema, make a point of
Sun; Wc ; YCentral) People come from miles stopping at this friendly neighborhood piz-
around for Tosci’s burnt-caramel ice cream, zeria, which instills a maniacal devotion in
which apparently was invented as the result its customers. Crispy thin crusts and crea-
of an accident (you can imagine). Besides tive topping combinations mean Emma’s
the dozens of delicious ice-cream flavors, is consistently rated among the city’s best
there is also excellent coffee. pizza. Slices and salads are also sold from
the front window.
1 47
AREA FOUR CAFE, PIZZA $$
Map p252 (www.areafour.com; 500 Technol- COOKING COURSES
ogy Sq; pizza $18-28; h11:30am-10pm Mon-Fri,
10:30am-10pm Sat & Sun; Wv; YKendall/MIT) Patron food-saint Julia Child, long-time
Cambridge resident and star of many
S The post-industrial vibe at Area Four is
perfect for the high-tech block where it is cooking shows, spent four decades
located (and for which it is named). Dou- teaching people to cook before she
bling as a cool cafe and modern pizzeria, died in 2004. If you want to embody
Area Four offers strong coffee and fresh Julia’s bon vivant, bon appétit spirit,
pastries by day, and local brews, sustain- take a cooking class.
able wines and wood-fired pizzas by night. The recreation division of this
Eat and drink your way around the clock. professional Cambridge School of
Culinary Arts (www.cambridgeculinary.
CAFÉ ARTSCIENCE MODERN FRENCH $$ com; 2020 Massachusetts Ave; YPorter)
Map p252 (www.cafeartscience.com; 650 E Ken- offers one-time courses focusing on
dall St; mains $19-24; h11am-10pm Mon-Fri, seasonal meals such as ‘An American
5-10pm Sat; Wv; YKendall) Before David Gathering’ or on crucial cooking skills
Edwards was a restaurateur, he was an such as ‘All You Knead’ (basic breads).
MIT professor and an inventor, dreaming Several times a week there are special
up novelties such as Wikipearl (edible food ‘Cooking Couples’ classes, teaching
wrapper) and oPhone (an aroma gadget). tapas, sushi, dinner parties and more.
Now he’s channeling his energies into the
‘artscience’ of food. It’s not as gimmicky as
BEAT HOTEL BAR
Ca m bri d g e D rinking & N ightlife

it sounds, though there is some futurism
here (cocktails involving vaporized alcohol Map p250 (www.beathotel.com; 13 Brattle St;
h4pm-midnight Mon-Wed, to 2am Thu & Fri,
and variously flavored ice cubes, for in-
stance). Mostly, though, it’s just innovative 10am-2am Sat, to midnight Sun; YHarvard) A
food that looks like it was plated with surgi- great addition to Harvard Sq, this vast,
cal instruments. underground bistro packs in good-looking
patrons for international food, classy cock-
oHUNGRY MOTHER SOUTHERN $$$ tails and live jazz and blues. It’s inspired by
Map p252 (%617-499-0090; www.hungrymother- the Beat Generation writers – and named
cambridge.com; 233 Cardinal Medeiros Ave; mains for a rundown Parisian motel where they
$19, 4-course prix-fixe dinner $52; h5-10:30pm hung out.
Tue-Sun; YKendall/MIT) Who knew that Bosto-
LA BURDICK CAFE
nians would take so well to grits? No wonder,
Map p250 (www.burdickchocolate.com; 52d Brat-
Hungry Mother does Southern fare right,
tle St; h8am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat;
using fresh local ingredients and classic
YHarvard) This boutique chocolatier dou-
French cooking techniques. It’s a cozy crowd-
bles as a cafe, usually packed full of happy
ed space that feels like somebody’s country
patrons drinking hot cocoa. Whether you
house, with lots of little rooms, and eclectic
choose dark or milk, it’s sure to be some
art and photos on the walls.
of the best chocolate you’ll drink in your
lifetime.
DRINKING &
6 NIGHTLIFE
SHAYS PUB & WINE BAR
Map p250 (www.shayspubandwinebar.com; 58
PUB
John F Kennedy St; h11am-1am Mon-Sat, noon-

1am Sun; YHarvard) A charming basement-
6 Harvard Square level bar, Shays is a long-standing favorite
oCAFÉ PAMPLONA CAFE
among Harvard graduate students that has
Map p250 (12 Bow St; h11am-midnight; YHar- fancied itself up and expanded its wine list.
vard) Located in a cozy cellar on a back-
Inside, it’s a small wooden pub where you’ll
street, this no-frills European cafe is the sit on a stool and pretend to look thought-
choice among old-time Cantabrigians. In ful. Out front is a small brick patio full of
sunners and smokers jockeying for a table
addition to tea and coffee drinks, Pamplo-
and watching the sidewalk goings-on.
na has light snacks such as gazpacho, sand-
wiches and biscotti.
148
CHARLIE’S KITCHEN DIVE BAR artwork is deliciously dark and it stimulates
Map p250 (www.charlieskitchen.com; 10 Eliot St; the brain. Art aficionados and coffee drink-
h11am-1am Sun-Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat; YHarvard) ers, come to Voltage for a little of both.
Charlie’s is a three-in-one. Downstairs is a
lovable greasy spoon serving burgers and BRICK & MORTAR COCKTAIL BAR
bargain-price lobster rolls late into the night; Map p252 (www.brickmortarltd.com; 569 Massa-
upstairs is a long-standing and much beloved chusetts Ave; h5pm-1am Sun-Wed, to 2am Thu-
dive bar blasting the Cars from the jukebox. Sat; YCentral) Enter through the unmarked
For 40-some years, that’s all there was. Re- door (next to Central Kitchen) and climb the
cently, though, this family-run institution dark stairs to cool cocktail heaven. No pre-
rocked Harvard Sq by opening a beer garden tenses here – just a pared down setting and
with 18 taps. Drink beer outside, y’all! a choice list of craft cocktails and beers. The
staff is knowledgeable and friendly, so if you
ALGIERS COFFEE HOUSE CAFE don’t see something you like, ask for advice.
Map p250 (40 Brattle St; h8am-midnight; W;
YHarvard) Although the pace of service RIVER GODS BAR
can be glacial, the palatial Middle Eastern Map p252 (www.rivergodsonline.com; 125 River
decor makes this an inviting rest spot. The St; h3pm-1am; YCentral) The decor of this
one good thing about the relaxed service is small, cramped room (max 45 people) leans
that you won’t be rushed to finish your pot toward kitsch, with a cluttered assortment
of Arabic coffee or mint tea. of seasonal holiday decorations, sparkly
leather stools and gothic red-velvet chairs.
Art-house movies and documentary foot-
6 Central & Kendall age project silently on the wall, while DJs
Ca m bri d g e D rinking & N ightlife
Squares spin from a second-story alcove. The DJs

work their magic every night, with a few
GREEN STREET GRILL COCKTAIL BAR sessions each week dedicated to new music.
Map p252 (www.greenstreetgrill.com; 280 Green
HAVANA CLUB CLUB
St; h5:30pm-1am; YCentral) Gritty on the
outside, cozy on the inside, the Green Street Map p252 (www.havanaclubsalsa.com; 288 Green
Grill is a longstanding neighborhood joint St; weeknight/weekend $5/12; h8pm-midnight
that still manages to be thoroughly up to Mon & Thu, 9pm-2am Fri & Sat; YCentral) On
date – thanks in part to bartenders in flan- Friday and Saturday nights, this old social
nel and killer cocktails. The urban bar and club on a back street in Central Sq trans-
grill hints at upscale, but keeps it real with forms into the Boston area’s most happen-
affordable prices (all cocktails under $10), ing salsa dance party. It’s an international
tried-and-true American fare and no snoot. crowd – not just Latino – and the first hour
is devoted to lessons. DJs change things up
STATE PARK BAR for Bachata Monday.
Map p252 (www.statepark.is; 1 Kendall Sq;
h11:30am-1am Tue & Wed, to 2am Thu & Fri, PLOUGH & STARS IRISH PUB
5pm-1am Sat-Mon; YKendall) This is a popu- Map p252 (www.ploughandstars.com; 912 Mas-
lar, rowdy, almost divey bar, where wood sachusetts Ave; h11:30am-1am Sun-Wed, to 2am
paneling and carpeting cover the walls and Thu-Sat; W; YCentral) The Plough & Stars
Miller High Life is an ingredient in the ‘of- is real-deal Irish, serving up bangers, eggs
ficial’ cocktail. It’s not a dive, though. The and gastropub fare in a cozy wooden room
quirky, kitschy decor is carefully calculated with stout on tap and in bottles. Weekend
and playfully ironic. And the heightened soccer matches are on the telly and stringed
Southern comfort food is superb – as you bands play Irish tunes. Actually, there’s mu-
would expect from the folks behind the sic every night of the week – not only Irish,
Hungry Mother. but also jazz, blues, rockabilly, funk and
other indefinable genres.
VOLTAGE COFFEE & ART CAFE
Map p252 (www.voltagecoffee.com; 295 Third MIDDLESEX CLUB
St; h7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat & Sun; W; Map p252 (www.middlesexlounge.us; 315 Mas-
YKendall/MIT) The place promises ‘Coffee sachusetts Ave; cover $10; h7pm-2am Thu-
& Art,’ but we are left to wonder – what’s Sat; YCentral) Sleek and sophisticated,
the difference? The lattes are beautiful to Middlesex brings the dance crowd to the
look at and they inspire deep thoughts. The Cambridge side of town. Black modular
1 49
furniture sits on heavy casters, allowing Tue-Sun; YHarvard) The 3rd floor of the
the cubes to be rolled aside when the place Hong Kong noodle house contains a low-
transforms from lounge to club, making budget comedy house with a reputation for
space for the movers and groovers to be- hosting cutting-edge acts. This is where tal-
come entranced with DJs experimenting ented future stars (such as Brian Kiley, who
with hip-hop and electronica. Less about became a writer for Conan O’Brien) refine
the scene, all about the dancing. their racy material. Each night has a dif-
ferent theme; on Tuesday, for instance, you
CAMBRIDGE BREWING CO BREWERY can usually see a weird magic show.
Map p252 (www.cambridgebrewingcompany.com;
1 Kendall Sq; h11:30am-midnight; YKendall/ SINCLAIR LIVE MUSIC
MIT) S This jovial microbrewery is often Map p250 (www.sinclaircambridge.com; 52
crowded, as students and other beer-lovers Church St; tickets $15-18; h5pm-1am Mon, 11am-
like to imbibe fresh local beer. Flavors in- 1am Tue-Sun; YHarvard) Great small venue
clude Regatta Golden, Cambridge Amber to hear live music. The acoustics are excel-
and Charles River Porter (love that dirty lent and the mezzannine level allows you
water). Note that CBC was a microbrewery to escape the crowds on the floor. The club
before microbreweries were cool – since attracts a good range of local and regional
1989 to be exact. bands and DJs.
BRATTLE THEATRE CINEMA
3 ENTERTAINMENT Map p250 (www.brattlefilm.org; 40 Brattle St;

YHarvard) The Brattle is a film lover’s cin-
ema paradiso. Film noir, independent films
Ca m bri d g e E ntertainment
and series that celebrate directors or peri-
3 Harvard Square ods are shown regularly in this renovated
1890 repertory theater. Some famous (or
oCLUB PASSIM LIVE MUSIC
infamous) special events include the annual
Map p250 (%617-492-7679; www.clubpassim.org; Valentine’s Day screening of Casablanca
47 Palmer St; tickets $15-30; YHarvard) Folk and occasional cartoon marathons.
music in Boston seems to be endangered
outside of Irish bars, but the legendary AMERICAN REPERTORY
Club Passim does such a great job book- THEATER PERFORMING ARTS
ing top-notch acts that it practically fills in Map p250 (ART; %617-547-8300; www.american-
the vacuum by itself. The colorful, intimate repertorytheater.org; 64 Brattle St; tickets $40-
room is hidden off a side street in Harvard 75; YHarvard) There isn’t a bad seat in the
Sq, just as it has been since 1969. house at the Loeb Drama Theater, where
the prestigious ART stages new plays and
oLIZARD LOUNGE LIVE MUSIC
experimental interpretations of classics.
(www.lizardloungeclub.com; 1667 Massachusetts Artistic Director Diane Paulus encourages
Ave; cover $5-10; h8pm-1am Sun-Wed, to 2am a broad interpretation of ‘theater,’ staging
Thu-Sat; YHarvard) The underground Lizard interactive murder mysteries, readings of
Lounge doubles as a jazz and rock venue. novels in their entirety and robot operas.
The big drawcard is the Sunday night po- The ART’s musical productions, in particu-
etry slam, featuring music by the jazzy lar, have been racking up the Tonies.
Jeff Robinson Trio. Also popular are the
Monday open-mic challenge and regular TOAD LIVE MUSIC
appearances by local favorite Club d’Elf. (www.toadcambridge.com; 1912 Massachusetts
The bar stocks an excellent list of New Eng- Ave; h5pm-1am Mon-Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat, 3pm-
land beers, which are complemented by the 1am Sun; YPorter) This tiny, laid-back place
sweet-potato fries. is beloved for its excellent line-up of music
Located a quarter-mile north of Cam- (seven nights a week) and its no-cover-
bridge Common (the park), below Cam- charge policy. (Ever. At all.) There are a
bridge Common (the restaurant). dozen beers on tap and ‘all sorts of booze
available.’ No food, but it’s okay to bring
oCOMEDY STUDIO COMEDY something to nosh from next door.
Map p250 (www.thecomedystudio.com; 1238 About a mile north of Harvard Sq, across
Massachusetts Ave; tickets $10-12; hshow 8pm from the Porter Sq shopping plaza.
1 50
HARVARD FILM ARCHIVE CAMBRIDGE FORUM LECTURES
CINEMATHEQUE CINEMA Map p250 (www.cambridgeforum.org; 3 Church
Map p250 (www.hcl.harvard.edu/hfa; 24 Quincy St; htalks 7pm Wed; YHarvard) This excellent
St; tickets $9-12; hscreenings Mon, Wed & Fri- (free) series brings speakers on a weekly
Sun; YHarvard) Five nights a week, the basis to talk in the meeting house at First
Cinematheque presents retrospectives of Parish in Cambridge. Recent speakers
distinguished actors, screenings of rare have included luminaries like Nobel Prize–
films, thematic groupings and special winning economist Paul Krugman, poet
events featuring the filmmakers them- laureate Robert Pinsky, beloved biologist
selves. The screenings – which often sell of the people, EO Wilson and former Secre-
out – take place in the 200-seat theater in tary of Labor Robert Reich.
the esteemed Carpenter Center for the Arts
LONGY SCHOOL OF MUSIC CLASSICAL MUSIC
(designed by Le Corbusier). Tickets go on
sale 45 minutes ahead of show times. Map p250 (www.longy.edu; 27-33 Garden St;
YHarvard) George Longy was an oboist with
CLUB OBERON PERFORMING ARTS the Boston Symphony Orchestra before he
Map p250 (www.cluboberon.com; 2 Arrow St; decided to found the Longy School of Mu-
YHarvard) The second stage of the Ameri- sic in 1915. Now more than a century old,
can Repertory Theater, this black box is Longy is a well-respected training ground
ideally suited to flashy song and dance perfor classical musicians. Students and fac-
formances and interactive, acrobatic theat- ulty show off the goods on an almost daily
er. The long-running favorite is the Shake- basis, often free of charge. Longy is just
spearean disco, The Donkey Show, but you northwest of Cambridge Common.
might also see Rocky Horror Live or Abbey
Ca m bri d g e E ntertainment
Road: An Erotic, Thrilling Interpretation. SANDERS THEATRE AT

Indeed, ‘erotic’ and ‘thrilling’ seem to be MEMORIAL HALL CONCERT VENUE
consistent themes across performances. Map p250 (www.harvard.edu/arts; 45 Quincy St;

YHarvard) Set inside the magnificent Me-
REGATTABAR JAZZ morial Hall, this beautiful, 1166-seat, wood-
Map p250 (%617-395-7757; www.regattabarjazz. paneled theater is known for its acoustics.
com; 1 Bennett St; tickets $15-35; YHarvard) It is frequently used for classical musical
Why does Boston have such clean jazz performances by local chorales and en-
clubs? Regattabar looks just like a con- sembles, as well as occasional concerts by
ference room in a hotel – in this case the jazz and world musicians. Buy tickets at the
Charles Hotel. They get big enough names booth inside the Smith Campus Center.
(Virginia Rodrigues, Keb Mo) to transcend
the mediocre space, though.
3 Central & Kendall
Squares
oLILY PAD PERFORMING ARTS
SOMERVILLE THEATRE
Map p252 (www.lilypadinman.com; 1353 Cam-
Somerville Theatre (% 617-625-5700; bridge St; g91, YCentral) Lily Pad is a tiny
www.somervilletheatreonline.com; 55 space that fills up with music and perfor-
Davis Sq; YDavis) is a classic neighbor- mance art, whether it’s tango dancing or
hood movie house. It dates from 1914 narrated jazz storytelling. You might also
and features plenty of well-preserved hear indie, avant-garde, folk and even
gilding and pastel murals of muses. On chamber music. The space is stripped down
offer are first- and second-run Holly- – basically folding chairs in a room – which
wood hits, live performances by cham- adds to the underground ambience. There’s
ber orchestras and world musicians, also beer and wine!
and the Independent Film Festival of
RYLES JAZZ CLUB JAZZ, CLUB
Boston screenings. The main theater
Map p252 (%617-876-9330; www.rylesjazz.com;
is the biggest, best and oldest, and has
212 Hampshire St; cover $10-15; h5pm-1am Mon
the added treat of a balcony.
& Tue, to 2am Wed-Sat, 10am-1am Sun; YCen-
This gem is in Davis Sq, just a hop tral) Bonus: Ryles is not in a hotel. It is a
and a skip north from Cambridge. dark lounge with low lighting and big win-
151
Cantab is one of the neighborhood’s divier
DINNER AND A MOVIE dives (and that’s saying something in Cen-
tral Sq). But the eclectic music line-up at-
Go out for dinner and get discounted
tracts an awesome mixed crowd that likes
movie tickets ($8) to the Kendall Sq
to get its groove on. Tuesday night is the
Cinema. This deal is on offer at various
area’s best bluegrass night, Wednesday
restaurants around Kendall Sq, includ-
is the poetry slam, and Thursday is the
ing Emma’s Pizza and Hungry Mother.
famous, funky Chickenslacks. Friday is a
get-down, old-timer sweaty dance party.
dows, offering an intimate atmosphere to Cash only.
hear great music. This includes the house
band – Ryles Jazz Orchestra – which plays
monthly, as well as other local talent and
the occasional big name. The Sunday jazz
7 SHOPPING
brunch is super popular: reserve if possible.
No matter what’s going down on the 1st 7 Harvard Square
floor, there is dancing upstairs. And it usu-
ally has a Latin beat. Salsa Sunday, Noche Harvard Sq is home to upward of 150
Latina Tuesday, Viernes de Vacilon... shops, all within a few blocks of the uni-
versity campus. The area used to boast
LANDMARK KENDALL an avant-garde sensibility and dozens of
SQUARE CINEMA CINEMA independent stores, and vestiges of this
Map p252 (www.landmarktheatres.com; 1 Ken- free spirit remain. Certainly, there are
Ca m bri d g e S hopping
dall Sq; adult/child $9.75/7.50; YKendall/MIT) still more bookstores in Harvard Sq than
This cinema screens popular foreign films anywhere else in the Boston area. How-
and the usual collection of hits from the ever, many of the funkier shops have been
Sundance Festival. Seats are steeply sloped replaced by chains, leading critics to com-
and the concession stand serves cappuc- plain that the square has become an out-
cino. New releases sell out on Friday nights, door shopping mall.
so buy your tickets before dinner.
oWARD MAPS MAPS, SOUVENIRS
IMPROV BOSTON COMEDY (www.wardmaps.com; 1735 Massachusetts Ave;
Map p252 (www.improvboston.com; 40 Prospect h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun; YPorter)
St; hWed-Sat; c; YCentral) This group has If you’re into maps, you’ll be into Ward
been making things up and making people Maps. They have an incredible collection
laugh for more than a quarter of a century. of original antique and reproduction maps,
The troupe’s funny shows feature not just with a special focus on Boston, Cambridge
improv, but also comedy competitions, slap- and Somerville. What’s more, they print the
stick storytelling and nude stand-up. maps on coffee mugs, mouse pads, journals
and greeting cards, creating unique and
MIDDLE EAST LIVE MUSIC
personal gifts. There’s also an awesome se-
Map p252 (www.mideastoffers.com; 472 Mas- lection of T station signs and other vintage
sachusetts Ave; cover $10-30; YCentral) The MBTA paraphernalia.
Middle East is as good as the bands it
books, which means it varies wildly. This is
the preferred venue for local garage bands
oTAYRONA ACCESSORIES
(hit or miss, by definition), as well as 1980s Map p250 (www.tayrona1156.com; 1156 Massa-
rockers and fun Euro-pop artists. chusetts Ave; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm
In addition to the two stages, creatively Sun; YHarvard) Tayrona is named for an
known as ‘Upstairs’ and ‘Downstairs’, there ancient indigenous culture that inhabited
are two bar-restaurant areas serving decent the mountains of Colombia. But the items
Middle Eastern food (go figure). All four ar- that Tayrona carries are by no means lim-
eas are venues for DJs and dance parties, ited to South American–influenced styles.
depending on the night. The jewelry runs the gamut from clunky
costume jewels to delicate gold and silver.
CANTAB LOUNGE LIVE MUSIC Beaded handbags, batik scarves and hand-
Map p252 (www.cantab-lounge.com; 738 Mas- crafted gift items reflect an exotic, interna-
sachusetts Ave; cover free-$10; Y Central) The tional, but thoroughly sophisticated, style.
1 52
CAMBRIDGE ARTISTS’ be prohibitively high, unless you manage to
COOPERATIVE HANDICRAFTS strike the awesome end-of-season sales. You
Map p250 (www.cambridgeartistscoop.com; 59a know they’re going on when you see tables
Church St; 10am-6pm Mon-Wed, Fri & Sat, to 8pm on the sidewalks piled high with shoes.
Thu, noon-8pm Sun; YHarvard) Owned and
operated by Cambridge artists, this three- FORTY WINKS CLOTHING
floor gallery displays an ever-changing ex- Map p250 (www.shopfortywinks.com; 56 John

hibit of their work. The pieces are crafty – F Kennedy St; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm
handmade jewelry, woven scarves, leather Sun; YHarvard) Forty Winks is a little slice
products and pottery. The craftspeople of luxurious lingerie heaven. The items
double as sales staff, so you may get to meet are pricey, but they are also soft, silky and
the creative force behind your souvenir. oh-so-sexy. And the staff is graciously de-
termined to help you find the perfect fit for
CURIOUS GEORGE STORE BOOKS, TOYS body and soul. So if you’re looking to treat
Map p250 (www.thecuriousgeorgestore.com; 1 yourself – or your favorite lady friend – this
John F Kennedy St; h10am-6pm Sun-Wed, to 8pm is an excellent place to start.
Thu-Sat; YHarvard) Find your favorite story
SCHOENHOF’S FOREIGN BOOKS BOOKS
about that mischievous monkey, but there
Map p250 (www.schoenhofs.com; 76a Mt Auburn
are also thousands of other books and toys.
St; h10am-6pm Mon-Wed, Fri & Sat, to 8pm Thu;
HARVARD BOOKSTORE BOOKS
YHarvard) Since 1856, Schoenhof’s has been
Map p250 (www.harvard.com; 1256 Massachu-

providing Boston’s foreign-language-speak-
ing literati with reading material. Special
setts Ave; h9am-11pm Mon-Sat, 10am-10pm
booklists keep regulars abreast of new ar-
Sun; YHarvard) Family-owned and operated
Ca m bri d g e S hopping
rivals in their language of choice, whether

since 1932, the Harvard Bookstore is not of-
it’s scholarly or literary works, language
ficially affiliated with the university, but it
instruction materials or children’s books. If
is the university community’s favorite place
you are wondering which languages and di-
for browsing. While the shop maintains an
alects are available, the official count is over
academic focus, there is plenty of fiction for
700, so Schoenhof’s has you covered.
the less lofty, as well as used books and bar-
gain books in the basement. OONA’S EXPERIENCED
Harvard Bookstore hosts author talks CLOTHING CLOTHING
and other interesting lectures, often in con- Map p250 (www.oonasboston.com; 1210 Massa-
junction with Cambridge Forum. chusetts Ave; h11am-8pm; YHarvard) At Oo-
BERK’S SHOES
na’s you’ll find stylish clothes from all eras
– not necessarily big-name designers, but
Map p250 (www.berkshoes.com; 50 John F Ken-
distinctive, vintage wear that’s elegant and
nedy St; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11am-7pm Sun;
affordable. Operating since 1972, Oona’s is
YHarvard) Berk’s is a little store with a great
the oldest resale clothing shop in the Bos-
selection of shoes – half for your sensible
ton area.
feet and half for your fancy feet. Prices can
DICKSON BROS HOMEWARES
Map p250 (www.dicksonbros.com; 26 Brattle St;
h8:30am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun; YHar-
CAMBRIDGE ANTIQUE MARKET vard) Locals know that you can find just
Cambridge Antique Market (Map
about anything you need for your home at
p252; www.marketantique.com; 201 Mon-
this old-timer hardware store. From house
signor O’Brien Hwy; h11am-6pm Tue-Sun;
paint to cleaning supplies, from kitchen ac-
YLechmere), in an old brick warehouse
cessories to storage bins, it’s all crammed
in East Cambridge, looks forebod-
into this three-story space in the heart of
ing from the outside, but inside is an
Harvard Sq.
antiquer’s paradise. With more than CARDULLO’S GOURMET SHOP FOOD & DRINK
150 dealers on five floors, the market
Map p250 (www.cardullos.com; 6 Brattle St;
is a trove of trash and treasure. The
h9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm Sun; YHarvard)
constant turnover of dealers lends a
We’ve never seen so many goodies packed
flea-market feel, guaranteeing that you
into such a small space. You’ll find every
never know what you will find.
sort of imported edible your heart desires,
153
from caviar to chocolate. The excellent se-
lection of New England products is a good NEW BALANCE
source of souvenirs. Take home some Taza FACTORY STORE
chocolate from Somerville, Effie’s oatcakes
from Boston, and even clam chowder from Run like the wind to the New Balance
Maine. Factory Store (www.nbfactorystores.
com; 173 Market St; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat,
OUT OF TOWN NEWS NEWSSTAND 10am-6pm Sun; g 64) for comfortable,
Map p250 (Harvard Sq; h6am-10pm Sun-Thu, to supportive running shoes at discount-
11pm Fri & Sat; YHarvard) Dating to 1955, Out ed prices. Runners rejoice over these
of Town News is a national historic land- shoes, but regular people wear them,
mark. This quintessential newsstand sells too. This gymnasium-sized store also
newspapers from every major US city, as well carries plenty of other athletic gear.
as dozens of cities around the world. Even if You may have to search for your size,
you’re not looking for reading material, you but you can save up to 50% off any
need to know this place; it’s the top spot to given item.
hook up with friends coming off the T. The New Balance Factory store is in
Brighton: take the bus from Central Sq.
7 Central & Kendall

Squares duds. Downstairs, Dollar-a-Pound offers
piles of clothes that are priced by the pound.
oWEIRDO RECORDS MUSIC Also in the same location, Boston Cos-
Ca m bri d g e S ports & A ctivities

Map p252 (www.weirdorecords.com; 844 Mas- tume (Map p252; www.bostoncostume.com;
sachusetts Ave; h11am-9pm; YCentral) Not to 200 Broadway; h11am-8pm Sun-Fri, 9am-8pm
be confused with Cheapo Records up the Sat; YKendall/MIT) can dress you up like
street, this place is not particularly cheap, your favorite superhero, sports mascot, lit-
but it sure is weird. And we mean that in erary character or historical figure.
the best possible way. The shop is packed
with thousands of records, most of which SPORTS &
are out of print, from another country, or on
obscure or defunct labels.
2 ACTIVITIES
It just got weirder…the tiny record store oMINUTEMAN BIKEWAY CYCLING
hosts a monthly show, usually on a Tues- (www.minutemanbikeway.org; c; YAlewife or
day, featuring local comedians and other Davis) The best of Boston’s bicycle trails
weirdos, plus free prizes and free alcohol. starts near Alewife station and leads 5
Shazam. miles to historic Lexington Center, then
CHEAPO RECORDS MUSIC
traverses an additional 4 miles of idyllic
scenery and terminates in the rural suburb
Map p252 (www.cheaporecords.com; 538 Massa-
of Bedford. The wide, straight, paved path
chusetts Ave; h11am-7pm Mon-Wed & Sat, to 9pm
gets crowded on weekends. Rent a bike at
Thu & Fri, to 5pm Sun; YCentral) With tunes
the Bicycle Exchange (p210).The Minute-
blasting out onto the sidewalk, Cheapo
man Bikeway is also accessible from Davis
Records lures in music-lovers to browse
Sq in Somerville (Davis T station) via the
through its huge selection of vinyl and de-
2-mile Community Path to Alewife.
cent selection of CDs. The staff know their
stuff, and the collection spans all genres, CHARLES RIVER CANOE
with a fun box of new arrivals for the regu- & KAYAK CENTER CANOEING, KAYAKING
lars. And yes, they really are cheap-o. Map p252 (www.ski-paddle.com; 500 Broad Canal
Way; per hr canoe $20, kayak $15-20; hnoon-8pm
GARMENT DISTRICT CLOTHING
Mon-Fri, 9am-8pm Sat & Sun May-Oct; c; YKen-
Map p252 (www.garmentdistrict.com; 200 Broad-
dall/MIT) Besides canoe and kayak rental,
way; h11am-8pm Sun-Fri, 9am-8pm Sat; YKen-
Charles River Canoe & Kayak offers classes
dall/MIT) If your memories of the fashion-
and organized outings. Experienced kayak-
conscious ’60s and ’70s have faded like an
ers can venture out to the harbor, but the
old pair of jeans, this store will bring it all
river and basin are lovely for skyline views
back. The upstairs is organized by decade
and fall foliage. There is another outlet in
and filled with highly wearable vintage
154
Allston (near Harvard Sq), which allows for wood floors and imported Indian art and
an excellent one-way five-mile trip between furniture. The quaint cafe serves organic
the two rental centers. tea and vegan treats. All classes before
noon or after 8pm are only $10.
CHARLES RIVER BIKE PATH CYCLING
(Storrow Dr & Memorial Dr; c ; YHarvard, Kend- COMMUNITY ICE SKATING
all/MIT, Charles/MGH or Science Park) A popu- @ KENDALL SQUARE SKATING
lar cycling circuit runs along both sides of Map p252 (www.skatekendall.com; 300 Athenae-
the Charles River between the Museum of um St; adult/child $5/1, rental $8; hnoon-8pm
Science and the Mt Auburn St Bridge in Mon-Thu, 11am-9pm Fri & Sat, to 6pm Sun Dec-
Watertown center (5 miles west of Cam- Mar; c; YKendall/MIT) Perhaps Kendall Sq
bridge). The round trip is 17 miles, but 10 does not have the same charm as the Bos-
bridges in between offer ample opportuni- ton Common, but this smallish rink has
ties to turn around and shorten the trip. many other benefits. Mainly, there are usu-
Rent a bike at Cambridge Bicycle (p210) or ally fewer people, which means more room
Back Bay Bicycles (p210). This trail is not for your pirouettes (or whatever you do on
particularly well maintained and is often the ice). The rental skates are in excellent
crowded with pedestrians. condition and the staff are helpful.
HAHVAHD TOUR WALKING TOUR CAMBRIDGE CENTER
(Trademark Tours; www.harvardtour.com; tour FOR ADULT EDUCATION COURSE
$10; YHarvard) This company was founded Map p250 (www.ccae.org; 42 Brattle St; YHar-
by a couple of Harvard students who shared vard) The Cambridge Center for Adult Edu-
the inside scoop on history and student life cation offers everything from historical
Ca m bri d g e S ports & A ctivities
at the University. Now the company offers a tours to writing classes to massage courses
whole menu of Boston tours, but the funny, for couples.
offbeat Hahvahd Tour is the trademark.
Tours depart from the Cambridge Visitor RINK AT THE CHARLES SKATING
Information Kiosk in Harvard Sq; see the Map p250 (www.charleshotel.com; 1 Bennett St;
website for schedule details. adult/child $5/3, rental $5/3; h4-7pm Mon-Fri,
KARMA YOGA STUDIO YOGA
10am-6pm Sat & Sun Dec-Mar; c; YHarvard)
The plaza in front of the Charles is an unex-
Map p250 (www.karmayogastudios.com; 1120
Massachusetts Ave; yoga cass $10-20; h6am-
pected location for skating, with H-Square
10pm Mon-Fri, 8am-8pm Sat & Sun; YHarvard) passers-by enjoying the music and admir-
This studio offers about 10 yoga classes a ing the talent on the ice. It’s a small rink,
day, mostly variations on hatha and vinya- but not nearly as crowded as the Frog Pond..
sa yoga. There is also a fully equipped gym
FLAT TOP JOHNNY’S POOL HALL
upstairs. The set-up is gorgeous, with hard-
Map p252 (www.flattopjohnnys.com; 1 Kendall
Sq; pool per hr $12; h3pm-1am Sat-Wed, noon-
1am Thu & Fri; YKendall/MIT) Twelve red-felt
CANDLEPIN BOWLING tournament tables are set in a tall-ceilinged
space surrounded by brick walls and comic-
Founded in 1939, Flatbread Co & book murals. There are 16 beers on tap, plus
Sacco’s Bowl Haven (www.flatbread- darts and pinball for while you’re waiting
company.com; 45 Day St, Somerville; per on a table. Pool is half-price before 6pm.
lane per hr $25; h9am-midnight Mon-Sat,
to 10:30pm Sun; c ; YDavis) is a Somer- FRESH POND GOLF COURSE GOLF
ville institution – old-time candlepin (%617-349-6282; www.freshpondgolf.com; 691
bowling lanes that managed to survive Huron Ave; 9 holes $23-26; h6am-8pm; g71,
into the 21st century. The place was 73 or 78) About 2 miles west of Harvard Sq,
overtaken and updated by Flatbread the Fresh Pond is a nine-hole public course
Co, who brightened the space and that wraps around the city’s reservoir. It’s
added clay ovens, but preserved most easily accessible, but the setting is subur-
of the lanes and the good-time atmos- ban. Drive west on Mt Auburn St and turn
phere. Now you can enjoy delicious right on the Fresh Pond Parkway and left
organic pizzas and cold craft beers on Huron Ave.
with your candlepins.
155
Streetcar Suburbs
BROOKLINE | JAMAICA PLAIN
Neighborhood
St
Top Five
Soldiers
St
Pe ine
Si t
e 0 1 km
ey
oo l St
S
# t
Me m o
0 0.5 miles
az
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ag
an
a
kl i A lb
M
i 1 Taking a pilgrimage to
Fie ld
Br
t
ra
eS ALLSTON lD the birthplace of John F

dg r
bri
Ca
m r Kennedy (p157), touring the
Rd
al D
Brighto Me m ori home and listening to Rose
n Ave Charles River
Kennedy’s reminiscence of
Storrow D
Ba bc o ck St
ealth Ave r her family’s time, and then

St
M Com
nw Egmon as monw
ealth A
Naples
o t St sa following the NPS walk-

Ha
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St Ivy St
rd S
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he
ste #
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c
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Su
mm
# 4 # 2 Sitting in the balcony at
Ke n
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the Coolidge Corner
ay
er
t St
Long er
Th
w
w
Stear ood Ave Riv
iv
Theatre (p161) and catching

Av
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w
en
Was an art-house flick.

kli
BROOKLINE ay
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oo
t
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ar p
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ll A an
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sS
St Linden Ave
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ingT
h
St
t
ug
Hu n rem
no (p159).
ss
G r ee on
pre
t St
4 Browsing the stacks,
Cy
t t St
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St
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finding a bargain at the

Hig
Cy
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n Av
pr es
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(p161).
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Olmsted c 5 Cycling along the

t
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Jam
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Columbus Ave
Pa
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Pe
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1 56
Lonely Planet’s
Top Tip Explore Streetcar Suburbs
The Coolidge Corner Brookline and Jamaica Plain (among others) are street-
Theatre (p161) is not just car suburbs, residential areas that developed around
a cinema. It offers a wide Boston in the late 19th century. They are geographically
variety of programming for isolated from other parts of Boston, though transition-
all segments of the popula- ally connected, yes, by streetcar (or metro now). Both JP
tion, including @fter Midnite and Brookline maintain distinct identities and unique
(horror and comedy for ‘neighborhood’ atmospheres that make them attractive,
the late-night set), Opera off-the-beaten-path destinations for travelers.
at the Cinema (high-def Brookline was built as a modest, middle-income
screenings straight from the neighborhood, suitable for young families, which ex-
world’s best opera houses), plains the draw to Joseph and Rose Kennedy, who
Off the Couch (film accom- moved here in 1914. Today, JFK admirers and history
panied by psychoanalytic buffs make the pilgrimage to Beals St near Coolidge
discussion), Sounds of Si- Corner to see the birthplace of the 35th president of
lents (silent-film classics
the United States. The tour only takes an hour, but it’s
easy to while away the rest of the afternoon lunching
accompanied by live music).
at local Jewish delis and browsing the boutiques and
bookstores.
Best Places By day, Coolidge Corner is a hub of shopping and eat-
5 to Eat ing. After dark, things quiet down, although the local
cinema – a retro movie house – draws crowds for its arty
¨¨ Ten Tables (p160) international films and balcony seating. For a more rau-
¨¨ Tres Gatos (p159) cous good time, check out the music clubs up the street
¨¨ Michael’s Deli (p158) in Allston and Brighton.
¨¨ Zaftigs Delicatessen
Further south, Jamaica Plain was actually a summer-
time retreat for wealthy Bostonians who built stately
(p159)
homes overlooking the quaint glacial pond. JP’s open
S tre e tca r Su b u rbs
For reviews, see p158 A spaces are still part of this outer neighborhood’s ap-
peal, along with the cooling breezes off Jamaica Pond,
the diverse flora at Arnold Arboretum, the solemn land-
Best Places scaping of Forest Hills Cemetery and the extensive rec-
6 to Drink reational facilities at Franklin Park. If you want to enjoy
¨¨ Brendan Behan Pub
the great outdoors, but you can’t leave the city, head to
Jamaica Plain instead.
(p160)
Downtown JP is Centre St – that’s where you’ll find an
¨¨ Publick House (p160)
eclectic assortment of eateries and delightful neighbor-
¨¨ Haven (p161) hood shopping, as well as some drinking options.
¨¨ Samuel Adams Brewery
(p161)
Local Life
¨ Brookline Local Eat breakfast at Kupel’s Bakery
(p159) or lunch at Michael’s Deli (p158).
Best Urban
1 Oases ¨ JP Local Go jogging around Jamaica Pond (p162) or
take the dog for a drink at Brendan Behan Pub (p160).
¨¨ Arnold Arboretum (p157)
¨¨ Forest Hills Cemetery
(p157) Getting There & Away
¨¨ Frederick Law Olmsted
¨ Metro Two branches of the green line traverse
National Historic Site
Brookline. Take the C-line to Coolidge Corner or the
(p157)
D-line to Brookline Village. Traveling to Jamaica Plain,
¨¨ Jamaica Pond (p162)
orange-line stations such as Green St and Stony Brook
¨¨ Franklin Park Zoo (p158) provide the easiest access to Centre St and Jamaica
For reviews, see p157 A Pond. Use Forest Hills station to reach JP’s major
sights, which are further out.
1 57
1 SIGHTS noon-4pm Wed-Fri Jan-Mar, noon-4pm Wed &

Thu, 10am-4pm Fri & Sat Apr-Jun & Oct-Dec,
10am-4pm Wed-Sun Jul-Sep; g 60 from Kenmore,
YBrookline Hills) F Widely considered the
1 Brookline father of landscape design, Frederick Law
Olmsted ran his operation from his home
PHOTOGRAPHIC ‘Fairsted,’ which is now a National Historic
RESOURCE CENTER GALLERY Site. The gorgeous grounds are open to
Map p254 (PRC; www.bu.edu/prc; 832 Common- casual callers. Take a tour to visit Olmsted’s
wealth Ave; donation $5; h10am-5pm Tue-Fri, home and office, which remain as they were
noon-4pm Sat; YBU West) The independent a century ago. You can peruse his designs
Photographic Resource Center is one of the for the country’s most beloved green spac-
few centers in the US devoted exclusively to es, which include the Emerald Necklace
this art form. The PRC’s rotating exhibits in Boston, Central Park in New York City,
lean toward the modern and experimental, many national parks, and more.
often featuring work by amateur mem- From Brookline Hills, walk two blocks
bers. Other resources include educational south on Cypress St and three blocks west
programs, online exhibits, a well-stocked on Walnut St, then turn south on Warren.
library and unique events.
JOHN F KENNEDY NATIONAL

HISTORIC SITE HISTORIC SITE 1 Jamaica Plain
Map p254 (www.nps.gov/jofi; 83 Beals St;
ARNOLD ARBORETUM PARK
h9:30am-5pm Wed-Sun May-Oct; YCoolidge
Corner) F Four of the nine Kennedy chil- (www.arboretum.harvard.edu; 125 Arborway;
h dawn-dusk; c ; YForest Hills) F Under
dren were born and raised in this modest
house, including Jack, who was born in the a public-private partnership with Harvard
master bedroom in 1917. Matriarch Rose University, the 265-acre Arnold Arboretum
Kennedy oversaw the restoration of the is planted with over 15,000 exotic trees
S tre e tca r Su b u rbs S ights

house in the late 1960s; today her narrative and flowering shrubs. This gem is pleasant
sheds light on the Kennedys’ family life. year-round, but it’s particularly beautiful in
Guided tours allow visitors to see furnish- the bloom of spring. Dog walking, Frisbee
ings, photographs and mementos that have throwing, bicycling, sledding and general
been preserved here. contemplation are encouraged (but picnick-
A self-guided walking tour of the sur- ing is not allowed). The southern Forest
rounding neighborhood sets the scene for Hills gate is located on the Arborway just
the Kennedy family’s day-to-day life, in- west of the metro station.
cluding church, school and shopping. A visitor center (h10am-5pm Thu-Tue Apr-
Oct, noon-4pm Nov-Mar) is located at the main
LARZ ANDERSON AUTO gate, just south of the rotary at Rte 1 and
MUSEUM & PARK MUSEUM Rte 203. Free one-hour walking tours are
(www.larzanderson.org; 15 Newton St; adult/child offered several times a week from April to
$10/5; h10am-4pm Tue-Sun; g51, YForest Hill November.
or Reservoir) Larz and Isabel Anderson, a
high-society couple, bought their first auto- FOREST HILLS CEMETERY CEMETERY
mobile in 1899: a Winton Runabout. It was (www.foresthillstrust.org; 95 Forest Hills Ave;
the first of 32 autos that they would pur- h8:30am-dusk; p ; YForest Hills) Dating to
chase over the next 50 years. ‘America’s old- 1848, Forest Hills is a gorgeous, green cem-
est motorcar collection’ is now on display etery that is filled with art and whimsy. It
in the carriage house on the grounds of the is still an active burial ground, but it also
estate (now Larz Anderson Park). Take bus plays the role of open-air museum. The
51 from Forest Hill (orange) or Reservoir walking paths are lined with sculptures
(green D-line). paying tribute to individuals and causes
from times past, while a contemporary
FREDERICK LAW OLMSTED NATIONAL sculpture path winds its way around the
HISTORIC SITE HISTORIC SITE historic gravestones, connecting then and
(%617-566-1689; www.nps.gov/frla; 99 Warren now. Gravestones include such famous
St; hgrounds dawn-dusk year-round, exhibits figures as revolutionary heroes William
158
EMERALD NECKLACE
The Emerald Necklace (www.emeraldnecklace.org; YForest Hills) is an evocative name

for a series of parks and green spaces that weave some 7 miles through Boston, from
the Boston Common to Franklin Park. Designed by Frederick Law Olmsted in the late
19th century, the Emerald Necklace treats city residents to a bit of fresh air, green
grass and flowing water, right within the city limits. It’s well suited to cycling, so hop
on a bike and go for the green.
Olmsted Park (Map p255) features a paved path that hugs the banks of Leverett
Pond and Ward’s Pond in Jamaica Plain. The idyllic spring-fed Jamaica Pond (p162),
on the west side of the Jamaicaway, is more than 50ft deep and great for boating,
fishing, jogging and picnicking. Beautifully landscaped and wonderfully serene, the
Arnold Arboretum (p157) will appeal not only to green thumbs and plant lovers, but
also to anyone who can take time to smell the roses. Check the website to see what’s
blooming when you’re visiting.
Franklin Park, at 500-plus acres, is an underutilized resource – partly because it
borders a sketchy neighborhood, and partly because it is so huge. Still, on weekend
afternoons the park is full of families from the nearby neighborhoods of Jamaica
Plain, Dorchester and Roxbury. Take the orange line to Stony Brook, Green St or For-
est Hills and walk about a half-mile east to the park’s edge. The Franklin Park Zoo is
also contained within the park.
North of Jamaica Plain, other green links in the Emerald Necklace include the Back
Bay Fens (p124), the Commonwealth Ave mall (p110) and the Public Garden
(p69), with the terminus at the Boston Common (p70).
Dawes and Joseph Warren, abolitionist Franklin Farms lets kids get up close and
William Lloyd Garrison and suffragette personal with sheep and goats. Take bus 22
S tre e tca r Su b u rbs E ating
Lucy Stone, poets ee cummings and Anne or 28 from Ruggles station.

Sexton, sculptors Daniel Chester French
and Martin Milmore, and playwright Eu-
gene O’Neill. The on-site Forsyth Chapel
is a spot for peaceful contemplation sur- 5 EATING
rounded by vaulted wood ceilings and
stained-glass windows, in the midst of the
greenery. Concerts, poetry readings and 5 Brookline
other events are often held in this exqui-
site space. Walk east along the Arborway a Brookline is worth the trip for an eclectic
half-mile from Forest Hills station. assortment of dining options, including ko-
sher delis, Russian restaurants and many
FRANKLIN PARK ZOO ZOO other ethnic eats. Coolidge Corner, which
(www.zoonewengland.com; 1 Franklin Park Rd; is around the intersection of Harvard and
adult/child $18/12; h10am-5pm Apr-Sep, to Beacon Sts, is the hub for the Brookline din-
4pm Oct-Mar; p c ; g22 or 28, YRuggles) ing scene.
Tucked into Franklin Park, the zoo fea-
tures a half-dozen different habitats, as MICHAEL’S DELI DELI $
well as special exhibits devoted to birds Map p254 (www.michaelsdelibrookline.com; 256
and butterflies. The zoo’s highlight is the Harvard St; sandwiches $8-12; h9am-5:30pm
well-designed Tropical Forest pavilion, Mon-Sat, to 3pm Sun; YCoolidge Corner) There
complete with lush vegetation, waterfalls, are two things you need to know: corned-
lowland gorillas and over 30 species of beef Reuben; sour pickle. That said, there
free flight birds. The Australian Outback are dozens of sandwiches on the menu and
Trail allows visitors to walk among red you really can’t go wrong (but don’t forget
kangaroos and wallabies. the pickle). The sammies are generously
Several exhibits are devoted to life on stuffed and the service is superfriendly. On
the savannah, showcasing an African lion, the downside, there’s limited seating and
as well as giraffes, zebras and wildebeests. they don’t accept credit cards.
1 59
KUPEL’S BAKERY BAKERY $ EL ORIENTAL DE CUBA CUBAN $
Map p254 (www.kupelsbakery.com; 421 Harvard Map p255 (www.elorientaldecuba.net; 416 Centre
St; mains $3-8; h6am-8pm Sun-Thu, to 1hr be- St; sandwiches $6-10, plates $12-16; h8am-9pm
fore sundown Fri; v; YCoolidge Corner) Kupel’s Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat, to 8pm Sun; YStony
has 16 kinds of chewy bagels and 16 kinds Brook) Lunchtime lines often run out the
of decadent cream cheese. We’re not good at door as hungry patrons wait patiently for
math, but that’s a lot of breakfast goodness. the specialty Cuban sandwich. Roast pork,
Lines are out the door on Sunday mornings, Swiss cheese and ham are stuffed into
but it’s worth the wait for a sesame, toasted, a roll, and served with a side of maduros
with chive cream cheese and lox. Not only (fried plantains). Wash it down with a tropi-
is this place kosher, it’s also vegan friendly. cal shake or a sugar-cane juice, and you can
be forgiven for thinking you’re in Havana.
ZAFTIGS DELICATESSEN DELI, DINER $
Map p254 (www.zaftigs.com; 335 Harvard St; oTRES GATOS TAPAS $$
mains $10-15; h8am-9pm Sun-Wed, to 10pm Map p255 (%617-477-4851; www.tresgatosjp.

Thu-Sat; c; YCoolidge Corner) ‘Let us be your com; 470 Centre St; brunch $8-13, tapas $8-16;
h5:30-10pm Mon-Wed, to 11pm Thu & Fri,10am-
Jewish mother,’ Zaftigs implores. And on
Saturday and Sunday mornings, patrons 11pm Sat & Sun; v; g39, YStony Brook) This
craving potato pancakes with smoked small space is not only a tapas bar, but also
salmon, challah French toast and cheese a bookstore and music store. It all feels like
blintzes line up out the door to oblige. For- you are eating, browsing books and listen-
ing to music in somebody’s living room, but
tunately, breakfast is served all day, so no
that somebody is a gracious, fun host, and
one has to miss it. Otherwise, the deli turns
somehow it works. The menu features char-
out a huge selection of sandwiches, includ-
cuterie, cheeses and a selection of authentic
ing classics like Reubens, egg salad and
Spanish tapas and wine.
pastrami.
VEE VEE INTERNATIONAL $$
FUGAKYU SUSHI $$$
Map p255 (%617-522-0145; www.veeveejp.com;
Map p254 (%617-734-1268; www.fugakyu.net;
S tre e tca r Su b u rbs E ating

763 Centre St; mains $18-24; h5:30-10pm Tue-
1280 Beacon St; lunch $12-18, sushi boat $65; Sat, 10:30am-10pm Sun; v; YGreen St) Vee
h11:30am-1:30am; v ; YCoolidge Corner) The
Vee stands for Valachovic, the last name
name aptly translates as ‘house of elegance.’ of the two creative genii behind this sweet
Upscale and over-the-top, Fugakyu offers a spot on Centre St. The decor is minimalist
gorgeous array of sushi and sashimi, served and modern, but not too trendy for granola-
by staff dressed in kimonos. The food is loving Jamaica Plain. The menu is limited
beautiful to look at and delicious to eat, to seafood and vegetarian items. Veggies
especially the expertly plated sushi boats. should come on Wednesday for a $26 three-
Don’t fall in the koi pond. course prix-fixe bargain.
BELLA LUNA MILKY WAY PIZZA $$

Map p255 (www.milkywayjp.com; 284 Amory St;
5 Jamaica Plain mains $12-20; h5-11pm Sun-Wed, to 1am Thu
& Fri, noon-1am Sat; v; YStony Brook) Now
Funky, progressive Jamaica Plain hosts housed in an old brewery building, Bella
an ever-growing restaurant scene. The Luna Milky Way is a neighborhood haunt
neighborhood’s diverse population enjoys that has long enticed JP residents with its
a variety of spunky cafes and international colorfully painted walls and sci-fi decor.
eateries, with many veg-friendly options. Regulars keep coming back, year after year,
for crispy thin-crust pizza pies with inter-
JP LICKS ICE CREAM $ esting combinations of toppings, such as
Map p255 (www.jplicks.com; 659 Centre St; ice the all-time favorite Gypsy King, with spin-
cream from $4; h6am-midnight; W; YGreen ach, ricotta and caramelized onions.
St) ‘JP’ stands for Jamaica Plain: this is the While waiting for pizza, regulars keep
flagship location of the ice-creamery that’s themselves entertained with pool, Connect
now all over Boston. You can’t miss the hap- Four and vintage video games. After 9pm,
py Holstein head looking down over Centre there’s trivia (Monday), two-stepping (Tues-
St. And you shouldn’t miss the white-coffee day), comedy (Wednesday) and live music
ice cream, either. Expensive, but worth it. (Thursday to Saturday).
160
ETHNIC EATING 101: ALLSTON

Ethnic food lovers take note: one segment of one Boston neighborhood packs in 40
ethnic restaurants spanning more than 20 different cuisines. To reach this corner in
Allston, take bus 66 from Harvard Sq, or walk from the B-line Harvard Ave T-stop.
The crossroads of Harvard Ave and Brighton Ave in Allston is the city’s epicenter of
ethnic eating. There’s a choice of Afghan, Brazilian, Burmese, Cantonese, Colombian,
Egyptian, Guatemalan, Indian, Israeli, Italian, Japanese, Korean, Lebanese, Mexican,
Pakistani, Salvadoran, Shanghainese, Taiwanese, Thai, Turkish or Vietnamese.
This colorful neighborhood is home to a mélange of immigrants and students, a
demographic formula that has resulted in an eating paradise:
Bibim (Map p254; 166 Harvard Ave; mains $10-18; h11am-10:30pm; v ; g 66, YHarvard
Ave, B-line) Bibim transformed a little restaurant with yellow walls into a spacious,
light-filled oasis of authentic Korean delights. The namesake bibimbap is filled with
colorful veggies and fresh nutritious goodness. The tofu soups are recommended.
Jo Jo TaiPei (Map p254; www.jojotaipeiboston.com; 103 Brighton Ave; mains $7-14;
h11:30am-11pm Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun; v ; Y Harvard Ave, B-line) Jo Jo TaiPei is the
keystone of Boston’s ‘Little Taiwan’ – a Taiwanese bakery and a bubble-tea cafe are
across the street. Try the three cups tofu – a perfect combination of flavors.
Shanghai Gate (Map p254; www.shanghaigateboston.com; 204 Harvard Ave; mains $8-12;
h11:30am-10pm Wed-Mon; v ; g 66, YHarvard Ave, B-line) The menu here offers regional
dishes that will redefine your concept of what constitutes Chinese food. Cold appetizers
such as the five-spice tofu or the scallion jellyfish preface the meal like a perfect aperitif,
and the ‘lion’s head’ casserole elevates the modest meatball to new heights.
Yoma Burmese Restaurant (www.yomaboston.com; 5 North Beacon St; mains $10-12;
h4-9pm; v ; g 66, Y Harvard Ave, B-line) Boston is one of the few US cities that boasts
S tre e tca r Su b u rbs D rinking & N ightlife
a Burmese restaurant. Yoma’s la phet thot (green-tea leaf salad) is rich in the hearty
taste called umami. And the freshly ground, complexly flavored Burmese curry pow-
der makes the chicken curry the best in town across all cuisines.
TEN TABLES INTERNATIONAL $$$ pub is buzzing with good vibes, thanks
Map p255 (%617-524-8810; www.tentables.net; to the superb selection of brews (30-plus
597 Centre St; mains $22-32; h5:30-10pm Mon- drafts rotating). The specialty is the good
Sat, 5-9pm Sun; v; YGreen St) S True to stuff from Belgium, most of which seems
its name, this gem has only 10 tables. The to have a high alcohol content. The place
emphasis here is on simplicity – appropri- gets crowded on weekends, so be prepared
ate for a restaurant that specializes in tra- to wait if you want to sample the mussels or
ditional cooking techniques. The menu is mac ’n’ cheese.
short, but changes frequently to highlight
local, organic produce, handmade pasta,
fresh seafood and homemade sausages.
6 Jamaica Plain
DRINKING & BRENDAN BEHAN PUB IRISH PUB
6 NIGHTLIFE
Map p255 (www.brendanbehanpub.com; 378 Cen-
tre St; hnoon-1am; YStony Brook) Candlelit
tables, stained glass and old liquor cabinets
make this dark den an attractive destina-
6 Brookline tion for regulars of all ages and origins (in-
cluding dogs). The beer list is not massive,
PUBLICK HOUSE BEER BAR but it’s thoughtful and diverse. There are a
(www.thepublickhousebeerbar.com; 1648 Beacon few things that make this place unique: no
St; h5pm-2am Mon-Fri, noon-2am Sat & Sun; food (but you can bring it in), no TVs, no
W; YWashington Square) This loud, friendly credit cards.
16 1
HAVEN PUB ‘Best Bookstore in Boston.’ Customers love
Map p255 (www.thehavenjp.com; 2 Perkins St; the line-up of author talks and poetry read-
h noon-1am Mon-Fri, 10:30am-1am Sat & Sun; W; ings, the emphasis on local writers and the
YStony Brook) If you can’t stand to drink Used Book Cellar in the basement. Extra-
in another Irish pub, this is your Haven: a long hours are also a perk.
Scottish pub. There are more than a dozen
Scottish craft beers, haggis, and men in
kilts. Trivia, movies and live music keep
oSALMAGUNDI ACCESSORIES
the troops entertained, and the food gets Map p255 (www.salmagundiboston.com; 765
rave reviews, especially the burgers and the Centre St; h noon-8pm Tue-Fri, 11am-8pm Sat,
Scotch egg. to 6pm Sun & Mon; Y Green St) In our hum-
ble opinion, every man should own at
SAMUEL ADAMS BREWERY BREWERY least one fedora. And if not a fedora, some
Map p255 (www.samueladams.com; 30 Germania other fun and functional head-topper. If
St; donation $2; h10am-3pm Mon-Thu & Sat, to you are intrigued by this idea, head to Sal-
5:30pm Fri; YStony Brook) Learn about Sam magundi, where style-mavens Jessen and
Adams (the patriot and the beer). See how Andria can help you find a hat just made
they make the ales and lagers, and sample a for your head, no matter what your gender
few, too. Tours last about one hour and end identification.
at the gift shop and tour center (aka bar).
Arrive early in the day, as tours do fill up. EUREKA PUZZLES GAMES
Map p254 (www.eurekapuzzles.com; 1349 Bea-
con St; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun;
3 ENTERTAINMENT c ; YCoolidge Corner) Puzzles, of course. But
even better, this place has board games.
COOLIDGE CORNER THEATRE CINEMA
And card games. And many other kinds of
Map p254 (www.coolidge.org; 290 Harvard St;
games. The folks at Eureka know and love
tickets $9-11; YCoolidge Corner) An art-deco
games so much that they will scour their
neighborhood palace, this old theater blaz-
S tre e tca r Su b u rbs E ntertainment

shop to find a game that you will love, too.
es with exterior neon. Inside, view select
A cool souvenir idea: City Squares – a block
Hollywood hits, cult flicks, popular inde-
puzzle featuring six artistic images of his-
pendent fare and special events. Fifty cents
toric Boston.
of every ticket sale goes to the upkeep of the
building. BOING! TOYS
Map p255 (www.boingtoys.com; 667 Centre St;
MIDWAY CAFÉ LIVE MUSIC
h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun; c ; YGreen
(www.midwaycafe.com; 3496 Washington St;
St) Boing! is fun. It’s fun that they have an
cover $5; h4pm-2am; YGreen St) In addition
exclamation point at the end of their name
to hosting a kick-ass dyke night (Thurs-
and crazy colorful creatures adorning their
day), this queer-friendly rock and punk bar
facade. And it’s really fun inside, where
books some of Boston’s finest independent
kids and parents can find educational, age-
music, ranging from rockabilly to dub. In-
appropriate toys, games and activities with
side, find Pabst beer signs of antique vin-
the help of knowledgeable, caring staff. Fa-
tage, some longhorn skulls, pinball and a
vorite aunts love this place.
genuinely friendly atmosphere. Cash only.
ON CENTRE GIFTS, JEWELRY
7 SHOPPING Map p255 (www.oncentrejp.com; 676 Centre St;

h11am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat, noon-5pm
Centre St (JP) is edgy and urban, Sun; YGreen St) The friendly folks at this lit-
while Coolidge Corner (Brookline) is tle boutique can help you find the perfect
sophisticated and suburban. gift. The jewelry is inexpensive and highly
original; much of it is designed by local art-
oBROOKLINE BOOKSMITH BOOKS ists. But if your special person is not into
Map p254 (www.brooklinebooksmith.com; 279 origami earrings, never fear: there are
Harvard St; h8:30am-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri funky reusable shopping bags and designer
& Sat, 9am-9pm Sun; YCoolidge Corner) Year T-shirts, as well as cool, colorful glassware,
after year, this independent bookstore wins rugs and other stuff for the home.
162
MUSIC THEORY 101: ALLSTON/BRIGHTON

If you care to sample the Boston music scene, venture west to Allston/Brighton, the
gritty ‘student ghetto.’ Some of Boston’s best music clubs are located in these in-
nocuous alleys and subterranean spaces.
Great Scott (Map p254; www.greatscottboston.com; 1222 Commonwealth Ave; cover $5-12;
g 66, Y Harvard Ave) A music palace for rock and indie. Get up close and personal with
the bands, hang out with them after the set and buy them some beers. The sound
system is not perfect and the bathrooms are nasty, but this is where you can hear the
future of music. On Friday nights, the place turns into a comedy club known as the
Gas (7pm).
Brighton Music Hall (Map p254; www.crossroadspresents.com; 158 Brighton Ave; tickets
$10-20; YHarvard Ave) This reincarnation of Harpers Ferry is now owned and operated
by Crossroads (the force behind the Paradise Rock Club and House of Blues), which
bodes well. The cavernous space attracts great local bands, cool world-music acts
and touring national bands.The interior hasn’t changed much from the HF days and
thankfully the pool tables remain.
Paradise Rock Club (Map p254; www.crossroadspresents.com; 967 Commonwealth Ave;
tickets $20-40; YPleasant St) Top bands rock at this landmark club – like U2, whose
first gig in the USA was on this stage. Nowadays, you’re more likely to hear the likes of
the Del Fuegos, Los Compesiños, Trombone Shorty, and plenty of Boston bands that
made good, but still come home to play the Dise.
Scullers Jazz Club (% 617-642-4111; www.scullersjazz.com; 400 Soldiers Field Rd; tickets
$20-45; g 47 or 70, Y Central) A more mature music experience, this club books big
names (Dave Brubeck, Dr John, Michael Franks) in a small room. Though it enjoys
impressive views over the Charles, the room itself lacks the grit you might hanker for
S tre e tca r Su b u rbs S ports & A ctivities
in a jazz club. It feels like it’s inside a Doubletree Hotel (which it is). Book in advance.
GOOD VIBRATIONS SPORTS &

2
SEX SHOP
Map p254 (www.goodvibes.com; 308a Harvard
St; h10am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat;
ACTIVITIES
YCoolidge Corner) Down a narrow alley and JAMAICA POND SAILING, FISHING
marked by a discrete sign, this woman- Map p255 (www.jamaicapond.com; 507 Jamaica
focused sex shop is worth seeking out. The Way; boat rental per hr $15; hboathouse noon-
tasteful and tantalizing boutique offers sunset Mon-Thu, 10am-sunset Fri-Sun Apr-Oct; c;
sex-positive products, not to mention news- YGreen St) Once a summer destination for
letters, workshops and pleasure parties. city residents, Jamaica Pond is now a tran-
No question is too probing for the women quil urban oasis, perfect for paddling or
at Good Vibes. And it would seem that no rather tame sailing. A 1.4-mile paved path
product is either. circles the glacial kettlehole. Rowboats and
sailboats are available for rental at the 1913
HATCHED CHILDREN
Tudor boathouse.
Map p255 (www.hatchedboston.com; 668 Cen-
tre St; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 3pm Sun; c; BROOKLINE GOLF CLUB
YGreen St) S A baby is surely one of na- AT PUTTERHAM GOLF
ture’s most incredible creations, so why (www.brooklinegolf.com; 1281 West Roxbury
muff it up with synthetic fabrics and toxic Pkwy; 18 holes weekday/weekend $32/43) You
toys? If you prefer to dress your little bun- probably can’t get on the famous Brookline
dle of natural goodness in unbleached cloth Country Club green, but you can play golf
diapers and adorable organic clothing, next door at Putterham, a less famed but
you’ll find an excellent selection at ‘Boston’s perfectly pleasant public course. Wide fair-
first ecobaby store’ (but you can’t buy an ways and a lack of water hazards make it a
ecobaby here). suitable course for all levels.
16 3
Lexington # Salem
•
•
# •
#
# BOSTON
•
Concord # Boston
• Massachusetts
Bay
Harbor
Islands
Provincetown
•
#
40 k m
25 m i les # Plymouth
•
80 k m
50 m i les
Day Trips from

Boston
Boston Harbor Islands p164
These offshore islands are inviting for walking trails, rocky beaches,
wild berries and one highly explorable abandoned fort.
Lexington & Concord p166

Now serene suburbs, these twin towns were the site of the dramatic
kickoff to the War for Independence on April 19, 1775.
Salem p169
In addition to the many witchy sites in ‘Witch City,’ Salem showcases a
proud maritime history and unique artistic legacy.
Plymouth p171
Settled by the Pilgrims in 1620, Plymouth is now home to Mayflower II, a
replica of their ship, and Plimoth Plantation, a replica of their
settlement.
Provincetown p172
Provincetown is a perfect summertime destination, with vast stretches
of sandy beaches, miles of seaside bicycle trails, and an eclectic strip of
art galleries and seafood restaurants.
16 4
Boston Harbor Islands e

# 00 5 km
2.5 miles
The
Logan WINTHROP
w
w
wf
# Boston International
Graves
Long Inner Airport EAST Massachusetts

Wharf Harbor BOSTON
Deer
Bay Green
Island Island
w
w Park Little Calf Outer
Island
Day Tri ps fro m Bos to n B o s t o n H a r b o r I s l a n d s
#
f Boston Brewster
EDIC Harbor Calf Island Island
Pier Pleasure
Bay Great Brewster Middle Brewster
Spectacle Island
Island Gallups Lovells Island
Island Island Shag
Old Rocks
Harbor Long Little Island
Island Brewster
Thompson Georges
Island Island
Island
d
Moon n dR Rainsford
Dorchester Island Isla Island
on
Bay Mo
Mai n S t
So
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Boston Harbor
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State Park Island Island

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Quincy Island
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Island Island River
QUINCY Langlee
Sea S t Island World's
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Art R iv e Island Sarah
Hingham Shipyard f
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WEYMOUTH HINGHAM
Boston Harbor Catch a shuttle (if necessary) and ferry

back to the mainland from Spectacle or
Islands
Georges. Don’t try to visit more than two
or three islands in one day: you’ll end up
spending all your time riding on or waiting
for boats.
Explore
Boston Harbor is sprinkled with 34 islands, The Best…
many of which are open for trail walking, ¨ Sight Fort Warren (p165)
bird-watching, fishing and swimming. You ¨ Place to Hike Spectacle Island (p165)
can’t visit them all in one day, so consider ¨ Place to Swim Lovells (p165) or
the activities on offer and plan accordingly. Spectacle (p165) beaches
Hop on the first ferry to Georges Island,
where you can spend the morning explor-
ing Fort Warren. After lunch, take the shut- Top Tip
tle to one of the other islands. Hit Spectacle Georges and Spectacle Islands have snack
Island for good walking trails and marve- shacks (10am to 5pm), but there is no food
lous city views. Head to Lovells to catch or water on the other islands. Pack a picnic!
some rays and cool off in the refreshing At-
lantic waters. Or venture to Grape Island to
hunt for wild berries.
¨ Boat To reach most of the islands,
Boston Harbor Cruises (p211) offers
16 5
seasonal ferry service from Long Wharf. tional boaters, swimmers and sunbathers
Purchase a round-trip ticket to Georges from lounging on Lovells’ long rocky beach.
Island or Spectacle Island (adult/child Some of the former uses of Lovells are evi-
$15/9), where you catch another boat to dent: European settlers used the island as
the smaller islands. Make sure you check a rabbit run, and descendent bunnies are
the schedule in advance and plan your day still running this place; Fort Standish dates
accordingly. from WWI, but has yet to be excavated.
Day Tri ps fro m Bos to n B o s t o n H a r b o r I s l a n d s

With facilities for camping and picnicking,
Lovells is one of the most popular Harbor
Need to Know Island destinations.
¨ Area Code %617
¨ Location Scattered around the Boston BUMPKIN ISLAND ISLAND
Harbor, 20 to 40 minutes from Downtown (hearly May–mid-Sep; f from Georges or Hull)
Boston This small island has served many purposes
¨ Tourist Office Boston Harbor Islands over the years, first farming then fish dry-
Pavilion (p216) ing and smelting. In 1900 it was the site of
a children’s hospital, but it was taken over
1 SIGHTS for navy training during WWI. You can still
explore the remains of a stone farmhouse
GEORGES ISLAND ISLAND, FORT and the hospital. The beaches are not the
(hearly May–mid-Sep; c; f from Long Wharf best for swimming, as they are slate and
or Hull) Georges Island is one of the trans- seashell. A network of trails leads through
portation hubs for the islands. It is also the fields overgrown with wildflowers. It’s one
site of Fort Warren, a 19th-century fort and of three islands with camping facilities.
Civil War prison. While National Park Ser-
vice (NPS) rangers give guided tours of the GRAPE ISLAND ISLAND
fort and there is a small museum, it is large- (hmid-Jun–early Sep; f from Georges or Hing-
ly abandoned, with many dark tunnels, ham) Grape Island is rich with fruity good-
creepy corners and magnificent lookouts to ness – not grapes, but raspberries, bayber-
discover. This is one of the only islands with ries and elderberries, all growing wild amid
facilities like a snack bar and rest rooms. the scrubby wooded trails. The wild fruit
The extensive picnic area attracts large attracts abundant bird life. Unlike many of
groups of kids, as do the family programs the Harbor Islands, Grape Island has no re-
like children’s theater and family fun days. mains of forts or military prisons, although
In summer, there are Friday-night barbe- during the Revolutionary War, it was the
cues and other special events. site of a skirmish over hay, known as the
Battle of Grape Island.
SPECTACLE ISLAND ISLAND
(hdawn-dusk early May–mid-Sep; c; f from PEDDOCKS ISLAND ISLAND
Long Wharf) S A Harbor Island hub, Spec- (hmid-Jun–early Sep; f from Georges or Long
tacle Island has a large marina, a solar- Wharf) One of the largest Harbor Islands,
powered visitor center, a healthy snack bar, Peddocks consists of four headlands con-
and sandy, supervised beaches. Five miles nected by sandbars. Hiking trails wander
of walking trails provide access to a 157ft through marsh, pond and coastal environs.
peak overlooking the harbor. Special events But the dominant feature of Peddocks Is-
include Sunday-afternoon jazz concerts land is the remains of Fort Andrews, a large
and Thursday-evening clambakes. There facility with more than 20 buildings. Ped-
are also ranger-led kayak tours on Monday docks’ proximity to the mainland ensured
and Wednesday. Spectacle Island is rela- its use as a military stronghold, from the
tively close to the city and a ferry runs here Revolutionary War right through WWII.
directly from Long Wharf (hourly in July
LITTLE BREWSTER
and August, less frequently in June and
ISLAND ISLAND, LIGHTHOUSE
September).
(%617-223-8666; hFri-Sun Jun-Sep; f from Fan
LOVELLS ISLAND ISLAND Pier) Little Brewster is the country’s oldest
(hmid-Jun–early Sep; f from Georges) Two light station and site of the iconic Bos-
deadly shipwrecks may bode badly for sea- ton Light, dating from 1783. To visit Little
farers, but that doesn’t seem to stop recrea- Brewster, you must take an organized tour
166
(reservations required). Learn about Bos- The 4-plus miles of tree-lined carriage
ton’s maritime history during a one-hour paths are perfect for walking, mountain
sail around the harbor, then spend two biking or cross-country skiing – download
hours exploring the island. Adventurous a map from the Trustees website.
travelers can climb the 76 steps to the top World’s End is accessible by car from
of the lighthouse for a close-up view of the Hingham.
rotating light and a far-off view of the city
Day Tri ps fro m Bos to n Le x i n g t o n & C o n c o r d
skyline.
Lexington &
Tours depart from Moakley Courthouse
Dock in the Seaport District.
DEER ISLAND
(%617-660-7607; www.mwra.com; h dawn-
PARK
Concord
dusk) Funny thing about Deer Island: it’s
not actually an island. A hurricane in 1938
Explore
created the causeway that now connects
the ‘island’ to the mainland. The other Students of history and lovers of liberty can
funny thing about Deer Island is that it trace the events of the fateful day that start-
is dominated by a gigantic sewage treat- ed a revolution – April 19, 1775. Follow in
ment plant, which is one of the keys to the the footsteps of British troops and colonial
clean-up of Boston Harbor. The facility is Minutemen, who tromped out to Lexington
surrounded by 60 acres of parkland, with to face off on the town green, then contin-
5 miles of trails. Tours of the waste-water ued on to Concord for the battle at the Old
treatment facility are available with ad- North Bridge. Concord is the bigger town,
vance arrangements. Deer Island is acces- with many more sights to see, so don’t dally
sible only by car. in Lexington.
This day trip is an excellent bicycle out-
THOMPSON ISLAND ISLAND ing: the paved Minuteman Bikeway covers
(%617-328-3900; www.thompsonisland.org; the route from Cambridge to Lexington,
h noon-5pm Sat & Sun Jun-Aug; f from EDIC while the more rugged Battle Rd (within
Pier) Thompson Island was settled as early the Minute National Historic Park) contin-
as 1626 by a Scotsman, David Thompson, ues from Lexington to Concord. If you don’t
who set up a trading post to do business feel like pedaling back, you can take your
with the Neponset Indians. Today this bicycle on the commuter rail. Otherwise,
island is privately owned by Thompson you will probably need a car (or the Liberty
Island Outward Bound, a nonprofit organi- Ride) to see both towns in one day.
zation that develops fun and challenging
physical adventures, especially for training The Best…
and developing leadership skills. As such, ¨ Sight Walden Pond (p168)
the public can explore its 200-plus acres ¨ Place to Eat Country Kitchen (p169)
only on weekends, when it’s wonderful for
¨ Place to Drink 80 Thoreau (p169)
walking, fishing and birding.
A dedicated ferry leaves from EDIC Pier
in the Seaport District; see the website for Top Tip
details. If you don’t have your own wheels, consider
catching the Liberty Ride (www.libertyride.
WORLD’S END PARK
us; adult/child $28/12; h10am-4pm daily Jun-
(www.thetrustees.org; 250 Martin’s Lane, Hing-
Oct, Sat & Sun Apr & May), a hop-on hop-off
ham; adult/child $6/free; h8am-dusk) Not ex-
trolley, which includes all of the major sites
actly an island, this 251-acre peninsula was in both towns. Buy tickets at the Lexington
originally designed by Frederick Law Olm- Visitors Center.
sted for residential development in 1889.
Carriage paths were laid out and trees were
planted, but the houses were never built. In- Getting There & Away
stead, wide grassy meadows attract butter- ¨ Bicycle The Minuteman Bikeway runs
flies and grass-nesting birds. Today man- for 6 miles from Alewife, in Cambridge, to
agement by the Trustees of Reservations Lexington. From Lexington you can follow
guarantees continued serenity and beauty. the Battle Rd Trail to Concord.
16 7
¨ Bus MBTA buses 62 and 76 run from the the Battle Green, the 1709 Buckman Tavern
red-line T terminus at Alewife through to was the headquarters of the Minutemen.
Lexington center hourly on weekdays, less Here, they spent the tense hours between
frequently on Saturday (no Sunday service). the midnight call to arms and the dawn ar-
¨ Car On Rte 2, drive about 20 minutes rival of the Redcoats. Today, the tavern has
west from Cambridge to Waltham St (exit been restored to its 18th-century appear-
54) for Lexington and Walden St (Rte 126) ance, complete with bar, fireplace and bul-

for Concord. let holes resulting from British musket fire.
¨ Train MBTA commuter-rail trains
($8.50, 40 minutes, 10 daily) run between oMINUTE MAN NATIONAL
Boston’s North Station and the Concord HISTORIC PARK PARK
Depot on the Fitchburg/South Acton line. (www.nps.gov/mima; 250 North Great Rd, Lincoln;
h9am-5pm Apr-Oct; c) F Two miles west
of Lexington center, the route that British
Need to Know troops followed to Concord has been des-
¨ Area Code %781 ignated the Minute Man National Historic
¨ Location 12 miles west of Boston Park. Within the park, Battle Rd is a five-
(Lexington), 18 miles west of Boston mile wooded trail that connects the historic
(Concord) sites related to the battles – from Meriam’s
¨ Tourist Offices Lexington Visitors Corner, where gunfire erupted while Brit-
Center (Lexington Chamber of Commerce; ish soldiers were retreating, to the Paul Re-
www.lexingtonchamber.org; 1875 vere capture site. It’s well marked and quite
Massachusetts Ave; h9am-5pm); Concord fascinating, besides being a lovely walk.
Chamber of Commerce & Visitors Center The visitor center at the eastern end of
(www.concordchamberofcommerce.org; 58 the park shows an informative multimedia
Main St; h10am-4pm Mar-Oct) presentation depicting Paul Revere’s ride
and the ensuing battles.
1 SIGHTS 1 Concord
OLD NORTH BRIDGE HISTORIC SITE
1 Lexington (www.nps.gov/mima; Monument St; hdawn-
dusk) A half-mile north of Memorial Sq in
BATTLE GREEN HISTORIC SITE Concord center, the wooden span of Old
(Massachusetts Ave) The historic Battle North Bridge is the site of the ‘shot heard
Green is where the skirmish between patri- around the world’ (as Emerson wrote in
ots and British troops jumpstarted the War his poem Concord Hymn). Daniel Chester
for Independence. The Lexington Minute- French’s first statue, Minute Man, pre-
man Statue (crafted by Henry Hudson Kit- sides over the park from the opposite side
son in 1900) stands guard at the southeast of the bridge. On the far side of the bridge,
end of Battle Green, honoring the bravery of the Buttrick mansion contains the visitor
the 77 Minutemen who met the British here center (www.nps.gov/mima; Liberty St; h9am-
in 1775, and the eight who died. 5pm Apr-Oct, to 3pm Mar & Nov), where you can
The Parker Boulder, named for their see a video about the battle and admire the
commander, marks the spot where the Revolutionary War brass cannon known as
Minutemen faced a force almost 10 times the Hancock.
their strength. It is inscribed with Park- On your way up to Old North Bridge, look
er’s instructions to his troops: ‘Stand your for the yellow Bullet Hole House (262 Monu-
ground. Don’t fire unless fired upon. But ment St), at which British troops purportedly
if they mean to have a war, let it begin fired as they retreated from North Bridge.
here.’ Across the street, history buffs have
preserved the Old Belfry that sounded the OLD MANSE HISTORIC SITE
alarm signaling the start of the revolution. (www.thetrustees.org; 269 Monument St; adult/
child $8/5; hnoon-5pm Tue-Sun May-Oct, Sat
BUCKMAN TAVERN MUSEUM & Sun only Mar, Apr, Nov & Dec) Right next to
(www.lexingtonhistory.org; 1 Bedford Rd; adult/ Old North Bridge, the Old Manse was built
child $8/5; h10am-4pm mid-Mar–Nov) Facing in 1769 by Ralph Waldo’s grandfather, the
16 8
ORCHARD HOUSE HISTORIC SITE
(www.louisamayalcott.org; 399 Lexington Rd;
DECORDOVA MUSEUM & adult/child $10/5; h10am-4:30pm Mon-Sat,
SCULPTURE PARK 1-4:30pm Sun Apr-Oct, 11am-3pm Mon-Fri, 10am-
4:30pm Sat, 1-4:30pm Sun Nov-Mar) Louisa
Located near Walden Pond, the magi- May Alcott (1832–88) was a junior member
cal Decordova Museum & Sculpture of Concord’s august literary crowd, but her
Park (www.decordova.org; 51 Sandy work proved to be durable: Little Women is

Pond Rd; adult/child $14/free; h10am- among the most popular young-adult books
5pm) encompasses 35 acres of green ever written. The mostly autobiographical
hills, providing a spectacular natural novel is set in Concord. Orchard House, her
environment for a constantly changing fully furnished childhood home, is across
exhibit of outdoor artwork. As many as from the Emerson Memorial House and is
75 pieces are on display at any given open for guided tours.
time. Inside the complex, a museum
hosts rotating exhibits of sculpture, SLEEPY HOLLOW CEMETERY CEMETERY
painting, photography and mixed (www.friendsofsleepyhollow.org; Bedford St;

media. h dawn-dusk) This is the final resting
There’s free admission on the first

place for the most famous Concordians.
Wednesday of the month.
Though the entrance is only a block east of
Monument Sq, the most interesting part,
Authors’ Ridge, is a 15-minute walk along
Reverend William Emerson. Today it’s filled Bedford St. You’ll find Thoreau and his
with mementos, including those of Nathan- family buried here, as well as the Alcotts
iel and Sophia Hawthorne, who lived here and the Hawthornes.
for a few years. A highlight of Old Manse Emerson’s tombstone is the large un-
is the gorgeously maintained grounds – carved rock of New England marble, an ap-
the fabulous organic garden was planted propriate Transcendentalist symbol.
by Henry Thoreau as a wedding gift to the
Hawthornes. oWALDEN POND STATE PARK
(www.mass.gov/dcr/parks/walden; 915 Walden
oCONCORD MUSEUM MUSEUM St; parking $5; hdawn-dusk) F Thoreau
(www.concordmuseum.org; 200 Lexington Rd; took the naturalist beliefs of Transcenden-
adult/child $10/5; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon- talism out of the realm of theory and into
5pm Sun Apr-Dec, 11am-4pm Mon-Sat, 1-4pm Sun practice when he left the comforts of town
Jan-Mar; c) Southeast of Monument Sq, and built a rustic cabin at Walden Pond.
the Concord Museum brings the town’s di- Now a state park, the glacial pond is sur-
verse history under one roof. The museum’s rounded by acres of forest preserved by the
prized possession is one of the ‘two if by sea’ nonprofit Walden Woods project. The site
lanterns that hung in the steeple of the Old of Thoreau’s cabin is on the northeast side,
North Church in Boston as a signal to Paul marked by a cairn and signs.
Revere. It also has the world’s largest collec-
tion of Henry David Thoreau artifacts, in-
cluding his writing desk from Walden Pond.
5 EATING & DRINKING
RALPH WALDO EMERSON
MEMORIAL HOUSE HISTORIC SITE
(28 Cambridge Turnpike; adult/child $7/free; 5 Lexington
h10am-4:30pm Thu-Sat, 1-4:30pm Sun mid-Apr–
VIA LAGO CAFÉ CAFE $
Oct) The Ralph Waldo Emerson Memorial
House is where the philosopher lived for al- (www.vialagocatering.com; 1845 Massachusetts
most 50 years (1835–82). Emerson was the Ave; mains $5-8; h7am-9pm Mon-Sat; v c)
paterfamilias of literary Concord, one of This cafe has high ceilings, intimate tables,
the great literary figures of his age and the a scent of fresh-roasted coffee and a great
founding thinker of the Transcendentalist deli case. You’ll often see cyclists in here
movement. The house often hosted his re- kicking back with the daily paper, a cup of
nowned circle of friends and still contains exotic java or tea, and a sandwich of roasted
many original furnishings. turkey, Swiss and sprouts.
169
Your starting point should be the Salem
5 Concord Maritime National Historic Site, which in-
cludes a smattering of historic buildings
Myriad cafes and restaurants are located and the impressive ship Friendship. This
on the streets immediately surrounding overview of the city’s maritime exploits is
Memorial Sq, but the really special places the perfect introduction to the Peabody Es-
to eat are located slightly out of the center, sex Museum, which is Salem’s unrivaled
near the train depot.
Day Tri ps fro m Bos to n S a l em

highlight.
Dubbed ‘Witch City,’ Salem is also infa-
BEDFORD FARMS ICE CREAM $ mous as the site of the witch trials in 1692,
(www.bedfordfarmsicecream.com; 68 Thoreau St; when 19 people were hanged as a result of
ice cream from $4; h11am-9:30pm Mar-Nov, noon- witch-hunt hysteria. There are dozens of
6pm Dec-Feb; c) Dating to the 19th century, witch-themed sights, as well as an excellent
this local dairy specializes in delectable ice trial re-enactment. Most of these destina-
cream, and frozen yogurt that tastes like de- tions are more about fun than authenticity,
lectable ice cream. If prices seem a tad high, so choose wisely.
it’s because the scoops are gigantic. Besides
their trademark Moosetracks (vanilla ice
cream, chocolate swirl, peanut-butter cups), The Best…
most of the flavors are pretty standard. Con- ¨ Sight Peabody Essex Museum (p170)
veniently next to the train depot. ¨ Place to Eat New England Soup
Factory (p170)
COUNTRY KITCHEN SANDWICHES $ ¨ Place to Drink Gulu-Gulu Café (p170)
(181 Sudbury Ave; sandwiches $8-10; h6am-4pm
Mon-Fri; c) At lunchtime, this little yellow
house often has a line out the door, which Top Tip
is testament to its tiny size, as well as its During the month of October, the Haunt-
amazing sandwiches. The Thanksgiving ed Happenings Halloween festival (www.
sandwich is the hands-down favorite, with hauntedhappenings.org) includes special
roasted turkey carved straight off the bird. exhibits, parades, concerts, pumpkin carv-
They don’t accept credit cards and there’s ings, costume parties and trick-or-treating.
no seating, save the picnic table out front.
80 THOREAU MODERN AMERICAN $$$
¨ Boat Boston Harbor Cruises (Salem
(%978-318-0008; www.80thoreau.com; 80 Tho-
Ferry; www.bostonharborcruises.com; 10
reau St; mains $21-29; h5:30-10:30pm Mon-Thu,
Blaney St; round-trip adult/child $27/22;
to 11:30pm Fri & Sat) Understated and elegant,
hMay-Oct) operates the ferry from Long
this modern restaurant is an anomaly in
Wharf to Salem (one hour, five daily).
historic Concord – but that’s a good thing.
¨ Bus MBTA buses 450 and 455 from
The menu – short but sweet – features deli-
ciously unexpected combinations of flavors, Boston’s Haymarket Sq are slower than
mostly using seasonal, local ingredients. the train.
There’s also a busy bar area, which offers ¨ Car Take MA 128 north from Boston,
a short selection of classic cocktails and a then take MA 114 east into Salem center
long list of wines by the glass. (one hour).
¨ Train Both the Newburyport and
Rockport lines of the MBTA commuter rail
Salem
($7, 30 minutes, hourly) run from Boston’s
North Station to Salem Depot.
Need to Know
Explore ¨ Area Code %978
A lot of history is packed into this gritty ¨ Location 20 miles northeast of Boston
city. There is much more than a day’s worth ¨ Tourist Office
NPS Regional Visitors
of sights and activities, so be selective when Center (www.nps.gov/sama; 2 New Liberty
planning your time here. St; h9am-5pm)
170
1 SIGHTS WITCH HOUSE HISTORIC SITE

(Jonathan Corwin House; www.witchhouse.info;
oSALEM MARITIME NATIONAL 310 Essex St; adult/child $8.25/4.25, tour extra
HISTORIC SITE HISTORIC SITE $2; h10am-5pm Mar-Nov) The most authen-
(www.nps.gov/sama; 193 Derby St; h9am-5pm) tic of more than a score of witchy sites is
F Salem’s glory days occurred in the Witch House – once the home of Jonathan
late 18th century, when it was a center for Corwin, a local magistrate who was called
clipper-ship trade with China, started by
Day Tri ps fro m Bos to n S a l em
on to investigate witchcraft claims. He ex-

Elias Hasket Derby. The Salem Maritime amined several accused witches, possibly in
National Historic Site comprises the cus- the 1st-floor rooms of this house. Hours are
tomhouse, the ship Friendship and the extended in October.
wharves, as well as other buildings along
Derby St that are remnants of the shipping
industry once thriving along this stretch of
Salem.
In all, the site comprises 10 different
5 EATING & DRINKING
historic locations within a two-block area. NEW ENGLAND SOUP FACTORY SOUP $
Check in at the visitor center for a schedule (www.nesoupfactorysalem.com; 140 Washing-

of ranger-led tours. ton St; soup $5-10, sandwiches $4-8; h11am-
8pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat, noon-7pm Sun; v c)
oPEABODY ESSEX MUSEUM ART MUSEUM When there’s a chill in the air, nothing
(www.pem.org; 161 Essex St; adult/child $18/ warms body and soul like a bowl of hot
free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun; c) The world- soup. That’s when you head straight to
class Peabody Essex Museum grew out of the New England Soup Factory. It’s not
Salem’s thriving maritime trade. Predict- much to look at, and tableware is paper
ably, the collection of Asian art is particu- and plastic, but there are 10 divine soup
larly strong, and includes Yin Yu Tang, a options every day (rotating).
house that was shipped from southeastern Favorites include chicken pot pie soup
China. The museum also has extensive col- (topped with a puff pastry) and pumpkin
lections focusing on New England decora- lobster bisque, but you’re welcome to sam-
tive arts and maritime history, and there ple before deciding. In summer, they serve
is a fascinating exhibit dedicated to Native cold soups, of course.
American art.
After Elias Derby’s ship Grand Turk RED’S SANDWICH SHOP DINER $
rounded the Cape of Good Hope, many (www.redssandwichshop.com; 15 Central St;
Salem vessels followed course. Soon the mains $5-8; h5am-3pm Mon-Sat, 6am-1pm Sun)
merchants founded the East India Marine This Salem institution has been serving
Society to provide warehousing services. eggs and sandwiches to faithful custom-
The new company’s charter required the ers for over 50 years. The food is hearty
establishment of a museum ‘to house the and basic, but the real attraction is Red’s
natural and artificial curiosities’ brought old-school decor, complete with counter
back by member ships. Thus the museum service and friendly faces. It’s housed in the
was born. old London Coffee House building (around
since 1698).
HOUSE OF THE SEVEN
GABLES HISTORIC SITE
oGULU-GULU CAFÉ CAFE
(www.7gables.org; 54 Turner St; adult/child (www.gulugulucafe.com; 247 Essex St; h8am-
$12.50/7.50; h10am-7pm Jul-Oct, to 5pm Nov- 1am; W) Gulu-gulu means ‘gulp, gulp’ in
Jun) The House of the Seven Gables was French and it’s named after a now-defunct
made famous in Nathaniel Hawthorne’s cafe in Prague. That is an indication of how
1851 novel of the same name. The novel eclectic this place is, featuring (in no par-
brings to life the gloomy Puritan atmos- ticular order) delicious coffee, art-adorned
phere of early New England and its effect walls, a fantastic beer selection, live music,
on the psyches of the residents; the house sinful crêpes and board games. Come for a
does the same. Look for wonderful seaside snack or stay all day.
gardens, many original furnishings and a
mysterious secret staircase.
17 1
Plymouth
center, while another link runs from the
center to Plimoth Plantation.
¨ Car Take I-93 South to MA 3. It’s a one-
hour drive.
Explore ¨ Train MBTA (www.mbta.com) commuter
Neatly contained and historically sig- trains ($10.50, one hour, four daily) to
nificant, Plymouth is the perfect day trip. Plymouth leave from South Station.
Day Tri ps fro m Bos to n P lym o u t h

Start the day at Mayflower II to experi-
ence life aboard the 17th-century sail-
ing vessel. Make the obligatory stop at Need to Know
¨ Area Code %508
Plymouth Rock to see where the Pilgrims
(might have) first stepped ashore. Then ¨ Location 40 miles south of Boston
climb the hill into town, which is lined up ¨ Tourist Office (www.seeplymouth.com;
along Main St. This is an opportunity to 130 Water St; h9am-8pm Jun-Aug, to 5pm
stop for lunch, before moving on to spend Apr, May & Sep-Nov)
the afternoon at Plimoth Plantation to
experience what life was like for the Pil-
grims once they were settled here.
Not surprisingly, Plymouth has a handful
1 SIGHTS
of historic houses and other micromuseums PLYMOUTH ROCK MONUMENT
that are also open for visitors. The best is (Water St) Historic Plymouth, ‘America’s
Pilgrim Hall (America’s oldest museum!), Home Town,’ is synonymous with Plymouth
which contains some cool artifacts and ex- Rock. Thousands of visitors come here each
cellent educational exhibits. year to look at this weathered granite ball
and to consider what it was like for the Pil-
grims, who stepped ashore on this strange
The Best… land in the autumn of 1620.
¨ Sight Plimoth Plantation (p171) We don’t really know that the Pilgrims
landed on Plymouth Rock, as it’s not men-
¨ Place to Eat Burgers Nosh Tavern (p172)
tioned in any early written records, but it
¨ Place to Eat Seafood Blue-Eyed Crab stands today as an enduring symbol of the
(p172) quest for religious freedom.
MAYFLOWER II HISTORIC SITE

Top Tip (www.plimoth.org; State Pier, Water St; adult/
If you plan to visit both Mayflower II and child $12/8; h9am-5pm Apr-Nov; c) If Plym-
Plimoth Plantation, consider purchasing a outh Rock tells us little about the Pilgrims,
combination ticket, which is good for ad- Mayflower II speaks volumes. Climb
mission to Plimoth Plantation on two con- aboard this replica of the small ship in
secutive days and to Mayflower II for any which they made the fateful voyage, where
one day within a year. 102 people lived together for 66 days as the
ship passed through stormy North Atlantic
waters. Actors in period costume are often
Getting There & Away on board, recounting harrowing tales from
¨ Boat The 90-minute Plymouth-to- the journey.
Provincetown Express Ferry (www.p-
townferry.com; State Pier, 77 Water St) oPLIMOTH PLANTATION MUSEUM
departs Plymouth at 10am and leaves (www.plimoth.org; 137 Warren Ave; adult/child
Provincetown at 4:30pm (late June to mid- $26/15; h9am-5pm Apr-Nov; c) The Plimoth
September). Plantation, a mile or so south of Plymouth
¨ Bus Plymouth & Brockton (P&B; Rock, authentically recreates the Pilgrims’
www.p-b.com) buses travel to South 1627 settlement. Everything in the vil-
Station in Boston (adult/child $15/8, lage – costumes, implements, vocabulary,
hourly). Heading south, these buses artistry, recipes and crops – has been
continue as far as Provincetown. GATRA painstakingly researched and remade.
buses (www.gatra.org; one-way/day-pass Hobbamock’s (Wampanoag) Homesite rep-
$1/3) connect the P&B terminal and the licates the life of a Native American com-
train station at Cordage Park to the town munity in the area at the same time.
17 2
PILGRIM HALL MUSEUM MUSEUM also talking about the flamboyant street
(www.pilgrimhall.org; 75 Court St; adult/child scenes, brilliant art galleries and unbridled
$8/5; h9:30am-4:30pm Feb-Dec; c) Claim- nightlife. Once an outpost for fringe writ-
ing to be the oldest continually operating ers and artists, Provincetown has morphed
public museum in the country, Pilgrim Hall into the hottest gay and lesbian destination
Museum was founded in 1824. Its exhibits in the Northeast.
are not reproductions, but real objects that Even if you’re only in town for a day, you’ll
Day Tri ps fro m Bos to n P r o v i n ce t o w n
the Pilgrims and their Wampanoag neigh- want to spend part of it admiring the art and
bors used in their daily lives – from Gover- watching the street life on Commercial St. If
nor Bradford’s chair to Constance Hopkins’ you are lucky enough to be here at night, you
beaver hat. The exhibits are dedicated to can also partake in some diverse dining, and
correcting the misrepresentations about singing and dancing until dawn.
the Pilgrims that have been passed down But that’s only half the show. As part of
through history. the Cape Cod National Seashore, Province-
town’s untamed coastline and vast beaches
5 EATING beg exploring. A network of bicycle trails

wind through picturesque sand dunes and
a beach backed by sea and sky (and a light-
NOSH TAVERN MODERN AMERICAN $$
house or two).
(www.noshfoodgroup.com; 15 Main St Ext; lunch
& brunch mains $7-12, dinner $12-22; h11:30am-
12:30am Mon-Fri, 9am-12:30am Sat & Sun; W) The Best…
‘America’s Hometown’ has emerged from ¨ Sight Cape Cod National Seashore (p173)
the 17th century with a thoroughly modern ¨ Place to Eat Mews Restaurant &
gastropub. It’s all-American fare with flair. Cafe (p174)
The obligatory turkey dinner is here, but ¨ Place to Drink Harbor Lounge (p174)
it’s cinnamon-brined turkey, served with
butternut risotto and candied pecans. The
burgers are here – four different versions Top Tip
– and one comes with truffles. The beer is The best way to get around Provincetown is
here, too – a slew of craft brews served in by bicycle (free parking everywhere you go).
dedicated glasses. Bring a bicycle on the ferry from Boston for
only $6, or rent one from Ptown Bikes.
BLUE-EYED CRAB SEAFOOD $$$
(www.blue-eyedcrab.com; 170 Water St; sand-
wiches $10-13, dinner mains $20-30; h11:30am-
9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri, noon-10pm Sat) There
¨ Air Cape Air flies several times a day to
are a few tried-and-true seafood restau- Provincetown’s Municipal Airport (one
rants clustered around Town Wharf. But if way $120, 25 minutes).
you like a little innovation with your fish ¨ Boat Both Bay State Cruise Co
(and perhaps a cocktail or a glass of wine), (Map p239; www.boston-ptown.com;
head a bit further west to this fun and Commonwealth Pier, Seaport Blvd;
funky joint, with sea-blue walls and fish round-trip adult/child $88/65; gSL1
floating from the ceiling. or SL2, YSouth Station) and Boston
You can still get clam chowder and lob- Harbor Cruises (Map p236; www.
ster rolls, but you can also try squid chilli, bostonharborcruises.com; 1 Long Wharf;
seafood stew with chorizo, or a crispy crab round-trip adult/child $88/65; YAquarium)
burger. operate ferries between Boston and
Provincetown. Both companies run the
90-minute trip two or three times a day
Provincetown during the peak summer season.

¨ Bus The Plymouth & Brockton (P&B;
www.p-b.com) bus (adult/child $31/16, 3½
hours), which terminates at the Chamber
Explore of Commerce, operates several times a day
Provincetown is far out. We’re not just talk- from Boston, stopping at other Cape towns
ing geographically (though it does occupy along the way. From late May to mid-
the outermost point on Cape Cod), we’re October, the shuttle buses (one-trip/day
17 3
pass $1/3) travel up and down Bradford St, COMMERCIAL STREET STREET
and to MacMillan Wharf, Herring Cove The main artery of the town, walking down
Beach and North Truro. Commercial St is a top attraction in Prov-
¨ Car Allow 2½ hours to make the drive incetown. On any given day you may see
from Boston; weekend traffic can be brutal cross-dressers, leather-clad motorcyclists,
and will surely slow you down. barely clad in-line skaters, same-sex couples
strolling hand-in-hand and heterosexual

tourists wondering what they’ve stumbled
Need to Know into on their way to a whale-watch.
¨ Area Code %508
¨ Location 115 miles southeast of Boston oPROVINCETOWN ART
¨ Tourist Office
Provincetown Chamber ASSOCIATION & MUSEUM MUSEUM
of Commerce (www.ptownchamber.com; (PAAM; www.paam.org; 460 Commercial St;
307 Commercial St; h9am-6pm) adult/child $10/free; h11am-8pm Mon-Thu, to
10pm Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun) Founded in 1914
to celebrate the town’s thriving art com-
1 SIGHTS munity, this museum showcases the works
of hundreds of artists who have found
PROVINCE LANDS
VISITOR CENTER BEACH
their inspiration on the Lower Cape. Chief
among them are Charles Hawthorne, who
(www.nps.gov/caco; Race Point Rd; car/bike/
led the early Provincetown art movement,
pedestrian $15/3/3; h9am-5pm; p) S Even
and Edward Hopper, who had a home and
with all the art and history, the main
gallery in the Truro dunes.
attraction at Provincetown is the Cape Cod
National Seashore, which includes eight
miles of exhilarating mountain-bike trails
leading through sand dunes and coastal
forest. Two spurs lead to the pounding surf
5 EATING & DRINKING
at Race Point Beach and the calmer waters CANTEEN SEAFOOD, AMERICAN $
of Herring Cove. Rent bikes at Ptown Bikes (www.thecanteenptown.com; 225 Commercial
(www.ptownbikes.com; 42 Bradford St; bicycles St; mains $8-15; h11am-9pm Thu-Sun May-Dec;
per day $23; h9am-6pm). v c) Cool and casual, but unmistakeably
When the weather is fine, swimmers and gourmet, here is your optimal P-town lunch
sun-worshippers set up camp near the en- stop. Choose from classics like lobster rolls
trances to these two beaches. But the sea- and BBQ pulled-pork sandwiches, or in-
shore stretches for miles and miles in either novations like cod bahn-mi and shrimp
direction, so take a hike to find your own sliders. Accompany with crispy Brussels
private patch of sea and sand.
GLBTQ PROVINCETOWN
While other cities have their gay districts, in Provincetown the entire town is the gay
district.
Boatslip Resort (www.boatslipresort.com; 161 Commercial St; h4-7pm) Hosts wildly
popular afternoon tea dances (May to October), often packed with gorgeous guys.
A-House (Atlantic House; www.ahouse.com; 4 Masonic Pl; h pub noon-1am, club 10pm-1am)
P-town’s gay scene got its start here and it’s still a go-to place, especially for dancing.
Includes an intimate 1st-floor pub with fireplace, as well as a dance club and leather
bar upstairs.
Pied Bar (www.piedbar.com; 193 Commercial St; h noon-1am May-Oct) This woman-
owned waterfront lounge is a popular dance spot for all genders. The main event is
the ‘After Tea T-Dance,’ so folks head here after the Boatslip. Also hosts ‘Women’s
Week’ in October.
Crown & Anchor (www.onlyatthecrown.com; 247 Commercial St; h hours vary) The queen
of the scene, this multiwing complex has a nightclub, a video bar, a leather bar and a
steamy cabaret that takes it to the limit.
174
Provincetown
A B 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 C D
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Beach (0.7mi)
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r
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Winslow St
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: :
in
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1 1 1 1
1 1 1 1 1 1
d
r yR Way
k Kemp
1 1 1 1
et e
Shan 1 1 1 1 1
Conwell St
Ce1 m 1 ry
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1
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1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Standish St
t
Cou
Brow n S t
ter S
Hill Rd
1 1 1 1 1 1
High Pole
t
rl S
Winthro
rt St
Pr
s
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Pe
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Miller
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13 St # 15
p St
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ÿ
Center St
ä
b
Law St
rd St 6A
Bradfo
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Ø
# ÿ
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Ryder St
2 Masonic Pl 1 16 2
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Central St
Atla ntic St
D 6û# æ
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4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
#û# # Johnson St
û
Herring Cove St #ú
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Beach (1.5mi) me r cial û
# 3 5 9
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12 # Pier
Fisherman's
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3 Provincetown
Harbor
Plymouth-Provincetown (seasonal)
Provincetown-Boston (seasonal)
A B C D
sprouts and cold beer. Take a seat at the HARBOR LOUNGE COCKTAIL BAR
communal picnic table on the sand. Devour. (www.theharborlounge.com; 359 Commercial St;
h noon-10pm) The Harbor Lounge takes
ROSS’ GRILL AMERICAN, FRENCH $$ full advantage of its seaside setting, with
(%508-487-8878; www.rossgrillptown.com; 237 floor-to-ceiling windows and a boardwalk
Commercial St; sandwiches $10-15, mains $16-32; stretching out into the bay. Candlelit tables
h11:30am-10:30pm daily May-Oct, 3-9pm Fri- and black leather sofas constitute the decor –
Sun Nov-Apr; W) A much beloved hideaway nothing else is needed. The cocktails are
tucked above Whalers Wharf, this casual surprisingly affordable, with many martini
bar and grill has spectacular views of the concoctions to sample.
harbor, an impressive wine list and im-
peccable, traditional steaks and seafood.
AQUA BAR BAR
Regulars rave about the French onion soup,
which could be a meal in and of itself. Large (207 Commercial St; h10am-1am) Imagine a
portions make dessert a challenge, but try food court where the options include a raw
to save room for banana-bread pudding. bar, sushi, gelato and other international
delights. Add a fully stocked bar with gen-
erous tenders pouring the drinks. Now put
oMEWS RESTAURANT the whole place in a gorgeous seaside set-
& CAFE MODERN AMERICAN $$$
ting, overlooking a little beach and beauti-
(%508-487-1500; www.mews.com; 429 Com- ful harbor. Now, imagine this whole scene
mercial St; bistro mains $13-22, restaurant $27-31; at sunset. That’s no fantasy, that’s Aqua Bar.
h5:30-10pm) A fantastic water view, the hot-
test martini bar in town and scrumptious
food add up to Provincetown’s finest dining
scene. There are two sections: opt to dine 2 ACTIVITIES
gourmet on lobster risotto or roasted duck oDOLPHIN FLEET
downstairs, where you’re right on the sand; WHALE WATCH WHALE-WATCHING
or go casual with a juicy Angus burger from (%800-826-9300; www.whalewatch.com; Mac-
the bistro menu upstairs. Millan Wharf; adult/child $46/31; hApr-Oct; c)
S Provincetown is the closest port to Stell-
175
e
# 0 500 m
0 0.25 miles PROVINCETOWN
: : : E : : F
æ Sights
: : : : : : Cape Cod 1 Commercial Street ..................................C2
National
: : : : Seashore 2 Provincetown Art Association &
[
Ù
6
1 Museum .................................................D2
ú Eating

Oak Dr
D 3 Canteen.....................................................B2
Truro (8mi) 4 Mews Restaurant & Cafe ........................D2
Howland St
5 Ross' Grill ..................................................B2
û Drinking & Nightlife

At
ki n s M
6 A-House ....................................................B2
2
La
7 Aqua Bar ...................................................B2
4
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Cook
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ayo Rd
St
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t
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9 Crown & Anchor.......................................B2
4 4
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10 Harbor Lounge .........................................C2
rcia
l St 11 Pied Bar.....................................................B2
4 4 14 ÿ
#
Ø Sports & Activities
4
12 Dolphin Fleet Whale Watch ....................C3
3 13 Ptown Bikes.............................................. A2
ÿ Sleeping
14 Cape Codder ............................................ F3
E F 15 Carpe Diem...............................................C2
16 Christopher's by the Bay ........................C2
wagen Bank, the offshore feeding grounds
of whales, dolphins and other sea creatures.
This recommended outfit offers up to nine
CHRISTOPHER’S BY THE BAY B&B $$
tours daily in peak season, each lasting
three to four hours. (%508-487-9263; www.christophersbythebay.
com; 8 Johnson St; r with shared/private bath-
room from $105/155; W#) Tucked away on
a quiet side street, this welcoming inn is
4 SLEEPING a top-value option. Local art on the walls
and personal recommendations from the
Provincetown has a hundred or so owners add a homey Provincetown flavor.
delightful small inns and guesthouses lin- Rooms on the 2nd floor are the largest and
ing Commercial St and the side roads. Most snazziest, but the 3rd-floor rooms, which
require reservations in summer, but inquire share a bathroom, get the ocean view.
at the Chamber of Commerce if you arrive
without a booking. oCARPE DIEM BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
(%508-487-4242; www.carpediemguesthouse.
CAPE CODDER MOTEL $
com; 12 Johnson St; r incl breakfast $279-469;
(%508-487-0131; www.capecodderguests.com;
a iW) Sophisticated yet relaxed, this bou-
570 Commercial St; r $65-90; hApr-Nov;
tique inn blends a soothing mix of smiling
Ws#) Definitely think budget – this is a
Buddhas, orchid sprays and artistic decor.
very simple place that makes no pretense at Each guest room is inspired by a different
being anything more. There are four bath- gay literary genius; the room themed on
rooms shared between 14 rooms, no TVs or poet Raj Rao, for example, has sumptu-
phones, and the occasional wall crack and ous embroidered fabrics and hand-carved
threadbare bedspread. But for these prices Indian furniture. The on-site spa includes
in this town it’s a steal. You can’t beat the a Finnish sauna, hot tub and massage
private beach and sundeck. therapy.
176
CHRISTIAN DELBERT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
1. Old North Bridge, Concord (p167) 2. Bunker Hill Monument

(p53), Freedom Trail 3. Boston Tea Party Ships & Museum (p132)
4. George Washington Monument, Public Garden (p69)
JON BILOUS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
17 7
Revolutionary
JORGE SALCEDO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Boston
There’s a good reason why Boston is
called the birthplace of the American
Revolution. Here, the Sons of Liberty
railed against British policies of taxation
without representation, the conflict’s
first blood was shed, and the ‘shot heard
around the world’ launched a war that
would spawn a nation.
Freedom Trail
Follow this 2.5-mile walking trail (p26)
from the Boston Common to Bunker Hill
to see where history unfolded – where
protests were staged, battles were fought
and heroes were lain to rest.
Boston Tea Party Ships

Protesting an unfair tax on tea, an angry
mob of colonists dumped 342 crates
of tea into the Boston Harbor in 1773.
The Boston Tea Party Ships & Museum
(p132) recalls the catalytic event,
inviting visitors to participate in the
protest and witness its aftermath.
Patriots’ Day
On April 19, 1775, rebellious Minutemen

stood up to British Regulars and sparked
the first battles of the Revolution.
Celebrated on the third Monday in April,
Patriots’ Day commemorates the event
with historic re-enactments and parades
(not to mention the Boston Marathon).
Lexington & Concord

The Minutemen first faced the Regulars
at Lexington Common (now called Battle
Green), and then later at the Old North
Bridge in Concord. These sites and the
surrounding countryside constitute the
Minute Man National Historic Park –
still peppered with contemporary
buildings and packed with historical
significance.
17 8
Sleeping
Boston offers a wide range of accommodations, from inviting guesthouses
in historic quarters to swanky hotels with all the amenities. Considering
that Boston is a city filled with students, there are surprisingly few
accommodation options targeting budget travelers and backpackers.
Rates Accommodation Websites

Most hotels have no set rates. Instead, rates Even the highest-end hotels post promotions
fluctuate seasonally, if not daily. High season and off-season sales on their websites. Sev-
is roughly defined as April through October, eral agencies manage B&Bs and apartments
although prices are more accurately driven for short-term rental.
by occupancy and high-profile events. Holi-
¨ Lonely Planet (lonelyplanet.com/usa/
days, university graduations, baseball games
boston/hotels) Includes reviews and booking
and pride parades all affect hotel prices. Of-
service.
ten the most expensive period is from mid-
¨ B&B Agency of Boston (www.boston-
September to mid-October.
bnbagency.com) Fully furnished vacation
Boutique Hotels rentals for daily, weekly or monthly let.
In recent years, Boston has become a hotspot ¨ Bed & Breakfast Associates Bay Colony
for boutique hotels – small, stylish hotels, (www.bnbboston.com) A huge database of
usually with personalized service and con- unhosted, furnished rooms and apartments.
temporary flair. The classiest boutique hotels ¨ Inn Boston Reservations (www.
are not cheap, but most offer competitive innbostonreservations.com) Studios
rates to attract tourists and businesspeople. and apartments for rent in Boston’s best
neighborhoods.
Budget Lodgings
Inexpensive accommodations are rare, but Longer-Term Rentals
the savvy traveler should have no problem With hordes of students and other transients
locating an acceptable option. Boston has moving around town, Boston, Brookline and
only a few hostels catering to traditional Cambridge are full of summer sublets and
backpacking travelers, but some guesthouses longer-term apartments available to rent.
also offer simple accommodation and per- Signs are often posted at coffee shops, book-
sonal service at budget prices. There are also stores and other student hang outs. Univer-
myriad options for staying in private homes, sity housing offices are also good sources of
booked through services like airbnb and information.
couchsurfing.
¨ Boston Apartments (www.
bostonapartments.com) Includes listings
Apartments & B&Bs
for long- and short-term, furnished and
Many B&Bs and inns are housed in historic or unfurnished, and a search by neighborhood.
architecturally significant buildings. Contact
¨ Rental Beast (www.rentalbeast.com)
B&Bs direct, or better yet, contact an agency
that will try to match your neighborhood de- Rental properties all over town. Search by
sires with the thickness of your wallet. neighborhood or requirements.
17 9
Lonely Planet’s HI-Boston (p183) LEED
certified. NEED TO KNOW
Top Choices
Irving House (p187) EPA
Liberty Hotel (p181) You’ll Energy Star award winner. Price Ranges
want to throw away the key.
Prices quoted are for
Verb Hotel (p186) It needs to Best for Families a double room in high
be said. This place rocks. season. Unless otherwise
Constitution Inn (p181) At- noted, rates include pri-
HI-Boston (p183) Sets the
tached to a giant play area. vate bathroom, but ex-
standard for urban hostels.
Colonnade (p185) Rubber clude breakfast and tax.
Gryphon House (p186)
duckies and a rooftop pool. $ less than $100
Indulge your senses at this gor-
geous riverside brownstone. Charles Hotel (p187) Smarty
Sle e pi n g
$$ $100 to $250
Pants package includes the
Oasis Guest House (p185) $$$ over $250
Museum of Natural History.
Offers the best value for your
midrange dollars. Omni Parker House (p183) Taxes
Kids receive fun-filled backpacks Massachusetts levies a
and cookies and milk.
Best by Budget 5.7% hotel tax, while Bos-
Hotel Commonwealth ton levies a 6% hotel tax
$ (p186) Family package includes and a 2.75% convention-
Friend Street Hostel (p181) a tour of Fenway Park. center fee, bringing your
Make some friends. total tax to 14.45%. Note
that there’s no room tax
HI-Boston (p183) New in the Best for Baseball
on B&Bs with fewer than
heart of Chinatown. Fans three rooms.
40 Berkeley (p183) Lay your
Verb Hotel (p186) Tucked in
head in Boston’s hip ʼhood. Tipping
behind Fenway Park.
It’s customary to tip
Hotel Commonwealth housekeeping $2 to $5
$$ (p186) Baseball packages. per day, depending on the
Chandler Inn (p183) Fresh standard of the accom-
Hotel Buckminster (p186)
rooms offering excellent value. modation. It’s best to tip
Views into the ballpark from
Copley House (p184) some rooms. on a daily basis, as there
Friendly, family-run guesthouse. might be different staff
Gryphon House (p186) Dis-
Oasis Guest House (p185) on duty.
counts for Sox ticket holders.
Homey urban oasis.
John Jeffries House (p182) Best B&Bs
Affordable suites.
Gryphon House (p186)
Beautiful riverside brownstone.
$$$
Clarendon Square Inn
Revere Hotel (p183) New and
(p184) Victorian beauty.
artistic in the Theater District.
Taylor House (p188) Sitting
XV Beacon (p182) Pinnacle of
pretty Pondside.
stylish luxury.
La Cappella Suites (p181)
Inn @ St Botolph (p185) Af-
North End original.
fordable luxury, artful design.
Encore (p183) Contemporary
Best Green Hotels with a theatrical theme.
Seaport Boston Hotel Truly Original

(p186) Good Earthkeeping
award winner. Green Turtle (p181) Drift off
on a boat.
Lenox Hotel (p185) Green
trailblazer. Liberty Hotel (p181) Spend
the night in jail.
Hotel Marlowe (p188) Green
Key certified. Verb Hotel (p186) Rock out.
1 80
Where to Stay
Neighborhood For Against

Charlestown Relatively affordable; Removed from city center;
neighborhood charm; great limited transportation
skyline views options
West End & North End Relatively affordable; close Few sleeping options in
to major sights; conveni- North End; desolate atmos-
ent transportation to other phere in West End
neighborhoods; dining and
Sle e pi n g W H E R E T O S TAY
shopping in North End

Beacon Hill & Boston Neighborhood charm; close Expensive
Common proximity to major sights;
great dining and shopping
Downtown & Waterfront Close to major sights and Expensive; hustle-and-
waterfront; convenient bustle city atmosphere
transportation to other (noisy, no neighborhood
neighborhoods; hustle- charm)
and-bustle atmosphere
South End & Chinatown Neighborhood charm; close Some areas can be danger-
proximity to major sights; ous for solo travelers and
convenient transportation late-night revelers who are
to other neighborhoods; not cautious; hustle-and-
great dining, shopping and bustle city atmosphere
nightlife; hustle-and-bustle (noisy)
city atmosphere
Back Bay Neighborhood charm; close None
to major sights; conveni-
ent transportation to other
neighborhoods; great din-
ing, shopping and nightlife
Kenmore Square & Close \to major sights; con- None
Fenway venient transportation to
other neighborhoods; great
dining and nightlife
Seaport District & Close proximity to airport Removed from city center;
South Boston and waterfront; great har- can feel desolate at night;
bor and skyline views limited transportation
options
Cambridge Neighborhood charm; close Removed from city center
proximity to some sights;
convenient transportation
to other neighborhoods;
great dining, shopping and
nightlife
Streetcar Suburbs Relatively affordable; Removed from city center
neighborhood charm; close
to some sights; convenient
transportation to other
neighborhoods; great din-
ing, shopping and nightlife
181
with three spacious guest suites on the up-
4 Charlestown per floors, topped off by a shared roof deck.
Italian marble flooring, skyline views and
CONSTITUTION INN HOTEL $$ access to a kitchen and common areas.
Map p229 (%617-241-8400; www.constitution
inn.org; 150 Third Ave; d $209-219; p aWs; oLIBERTY HOTEL HOTEL $$$
g 93 from Haymarket, f F4 from Long Wharf) Map p230 (%617-224-4000; www.libertyhotel.
Housed in a granite building in the historic com; 215 Charles St; r from $375; p n aW;
Charlestown Navy Yard, this excellent, af- YCharles/MGH) It is with intended irony
fordable hotel accommodates active and that the notorious Charles Street Jail has
retired military personnel, but you don’t been converted into the luxurious Liberty
have to have a crew cut to stay here. The Hotel. Today, the spectacular lobby soars
rooms are clean, crisp, modern and freshly under a 90ft ceiling. Guest rooms boast
Sle e pi n g C H A R L E S T O W N
painted, and decorated with plain cherry floor-to-ceiling windows with amazing
furniture; some have kitchenettes. Guests views of the Charles River and Beacon Hill,
gain free access to the fitness center. not to mention luxurious linens and high-
tech amenities such as LCD televisions and
GREEN TURTLE B&B $$$ iPod docking stations.
Map p229 (%617-337-0202; www.greenturtlebb. Off the lobby, there’s a small exhibit on
com; Pier 8, 13th St; r $260; p aW; fF4 from the building’s history. Over the years, the
Long Wharf) It’s not just a B&B, but a floating jail housed many famous residents, includ-
B&B. If you want to be lulled to sleep by the ing the anarchists Sacco and Vanzetti,
sound of waves lapping and wake up to the black liberationist Malcolm X and Boston’s
cry of seagulls, maybe you should be sleep- own James Michael Curley.
ing on a houseboat. The two contemporary
guest rooms are surprisingly spacious, com- BRICCO SUITES APARTMENT $$$
plete with kitchenettes. Hot coffee and fresh Map p232 (%617-248-6800; www.bricco.com;
pastries are served in your room. 241 Hanover St; d/ste from $259/299; aW;
YHaymarket) Immerse yourself in the Ital-
ian American Boston experience with a
4 West End & North End stay in a lovely, light-filled apartment in the
heart of the North End. The DePasquales
The North End’s close-knit Italian commu- rent 15 studios and apartments – all of them
nity is not known for welcoming visitors – decked out with polished hardwood floors,
for dinner, yes, but not to spend the night. marble bathrooms, Italian linens and gas
Save for one or two small places, all of the fireplaces. There’s no elevator, but it’s worth
accommodations are in the West End. the climb.
FRIEND STREET HOSTEL HOSTEL $ ONYX HOTEL BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
Map p230 (%617-248-8971; www.friend- Map p230 (%617-557-9955; www.onyxhotel.com;
streethostel.com; 234 Friend St; dm $45-50; 155 Portland St; d $269-299; p aW#; YNorth
iW; YNorth Station) We believe them when Station) S Done up in jewel tones and
they say it’s the friendliest hostel in Boston. contemporary furniture, the Onyx exudes
But there are other reasons to love this af- warmth and style – two elements that do not
fable hostelry, such as the spick-and-span always go hand in hand. Attractive features
kitchen and the comfy common area with of the hotel (a member of the Kimpton Hotel
the huge flatscreen TV. Sleeping six to 10 Group) include morning car service and an
people each, dorm rooms have painted evening wine reception. ‘Pet-friendly’ goes
brick walls, wide-plank wood floors and to a new level with gourmet doggy biscuits
bunk beds with thin mattresses. and a dog-sitting service.
LA CAPPELLA SUITES B&B $$ BOXER HOTEL BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
Map p232 (%617-523-9020; www.lacappellas- Map p230 (%617-624-0202; www.theboxer-
uites.com; 290 North St; ste $170-225; aW; boston.com; 107 Merrimac St; r from $279;
YHaymarket) ‘La Cappella’ refers to the p a iW# ; YNorth Station) Exemplifying
small chapel of La Societá di San Calogero the up-and-coming character of this once-
di Sciacca that previously occupied this downtrodden district, this new boutique
red-brick building. Now it is a private home hotel occupies a fully restored 19th-century
1 82
flatiron building on the western edge of
the Bulfinch Triangle. Design elements like 4 Downtown &
open-frame wardrobes and plaid bedding Waterfront
exhibit a subtly masculine sophistication.
Technology perks include Keurig coffee NINE ZERO BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
makers, iHomes and flatscreen TVs. Unfor- Map p236 (%617-772-5810; www.ninezero.com;
tunately, the staff are stretched pretty thin, 90 Tremont St; r from $309; p aW# ; YPark
which may result in some frustration. St) S This chic boutique hotel appeals
to a broad audience, courting business
travelers with a complimentary shoe-shine
4 Beacon Hill & service and ergonomic workspace; active
Boston Common travelers with complimentary bikes and
Sle e pi n g B E A C O N H I L L & B O S T O N C O M M O N
in-room yoga mats; and animal lovers with

JOHN JEFFRIES HOUSE HOTEL $$ Kimpton’s signature pet service. All of the
Map p234 (%617-367-1866; www.johnjeffrie- above enjoy excellent customer service and
shouse.com; 14 David Mugar Way; s/d $135/164, marvelous views of the State House and the
ste $189-199; p aW; YCharles/MGH) Re- Granary from the upper floors.
production furnishings, original molding,
hardwood floors and mahogany accents re- INTERCONTINENTAL HOTEL HOTEL $$$
call the era when Dr John Jeffries founded Map p236 (%617-747-1000; www.intercontinen-
what is now the world-renowned Massa- talboston.com; 510 Atlantic Ave; r from $325;
chusetts Eye & Ear Infirmary. Many pa- p aWs ; YSouth Station) S The Inter-
tients reside here when they come to town Continental has it going on. Service is on
for treatment, as do travelers. Complimen- point. The rooms are sumptuous and so-
tary breakfast is served in the parlor, but phisticated. And the location – perched on
you can also whip up your own meal in your the edge of the Seaport District – is ideal.
in-room kitchenette. You’ll pay more for a water view, but what
a water view! The marble bathrooms alone
XV BEACON BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
are worth the price of staying in this first-
Map p234 (%617-670-1500; www.xvbeacon.com; class hotel.
15 Beacon St; r from $355; p aW# ; YPark
St) Housed in a turn-of-the-20th-century
AMES HOTEL BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
beaux-arts building, XV Beacon sets the
Map p236 (%617-979-8100; www.ameshotel.
standard for Boston’s boutique hotels.
com; 1 Court St; r from $309; p aW; YState)
Guest-room decor is soothing, taking ad-
It’s easy to miss this understated hotel,
vantage of color schemes rich with taupe,
tucked behind the granite facade of the
espresso and cream. You’ll find custom-
historic Ames Building (Boston’s first sky-
made gas fireplaces and built-in mahogany
scraper). Starting in the lobby and extend-
entertainment units, alongside heated
ing to the guest rooms, the style is elegant
towel racks and rainforest shower heads in
but eclectic, artfully blending modern
the bathrooms, and romantic canopy beds
minimalism and old-fashioned ornamental
dressed in Frette linens.
details. The upper floors yield wonderful
BEACON HILL HOTEL views over the city.
& BISTRO BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
Map p234 (%617-723-7575; www.beaconhillhotel. HARBORSIDE INN BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
com; 25 Charles St; r $295-365, ste $425; p aW; Map p236 (%617-723-7500; www.harborsideinn-
YCharles/MGH) This upscale European-style boston.com; 185 State St; r from $269; p a iW;
inn blends into its namesake neighborhood YAquarium) Steps from Faneuil Hall and
without flash or fanfare. Carved out of for- the waterfront, this boutique hotel inhab-
mer residential buildings typical of Beacon its a respectfully renovated 19th-century
Hill, the hotel has 12 very small but stylish mercantile warehouse. The 116 rooms are
rooms, individually decorated with black- on the small side, but comfortable and ap-
and-white photographs, louvered shutters propriately nautically themed. Note that
and a designer’s soothing palette of paint Atrium Rooms face the atrium (ahem) and
choices. Added perks include the exclusive Cabin Rooms have no windows at all. Add
roof deck, and complimentary breakfast at $20 for a city view (worth it).
the urbane, on-site bistro.
183
MILLENNIUM and long-term basis. Bathrooms are shared,
BOSTONIAN HOTEL HOTEL $$$ as are other useful facilities including the
Map p236 (%617-523-3600; www.millennium- telephone, library, TV room and laundry.
hotels.com; 26 North St; d from $250; p aW;
YHaymarket) The Bostonian proudly touts oENCORE B&B $$
its roots as part of the Blackstone Block, Map p240 (%617-247-3425; www.encorebandb.
the city’s oldest block. From the moment com; 116 W Newton St; r $230-270; p aW;
you enter the cool, contemporary lobby, to YBack Bay) If you love the theater, or if you
the time you step out onto your balcony love innovative contemporary design, or if
overlooking the bustle of Haymarket, you’ll you just love creature comforts and warm
appreciate this hotel’s singular position. hospitality, you will love Encore. Co-owned
All-new rooms feature high-def TVs, Frette by an architect and a set designer, this 19th-
linens and other luxuries. century South End town house sets a stage
Sle e pi n g S O U T H E N D & C H I N AT O W N
for both of their passions.
OMNI PARKER HOUSE HISTORIC HOTEL $$$ Exposed brick walls are adorned with
Map p236 (%617-227-8600; www.omnihotels. exotic masks, interesting art and theatri-
com; 60 School St; r from $359; p aW#; YPark cal posters; bold colors and contemporary
St) History and Parker House go hand in furniture pieces furnish the spacious guest
hand like JFK and Jackie O (who got en- rooms. All three rooms have a sitting area
gaged here). Malcolm X was a busboy here; or private deck that offers a sweet skyline
Ho Chi Minh was a pastry chef here; and view. Continental breakfast included.
Boston cream pie, the official state dessert,
was created here. The lovely guest rooms CHANDLER INN HOTEL $$
are decorated in rich red and gold tones and Map p240 (%617-482-3450; www.chandlerinn.
equipped with all the high-tech gadgetry. com; 26 Chandler St; r from $179; aW; YBack
Bay) Small but sleek rooms show off a de-
signer’s touch, giving them a sophisticated,
4 South End & Chinatown urban glow. Travelers appreciate the plas-
ma TVs and iPod docks, all of which come
All of the accommodation options are lo- at relatively affordable prices. As a bonus,
cated in the South End and the Theater congenial staff provide super service.
District (although isn’t it nice to have Chi- Across the street, the inn rents out 11 newly
natown nearby when you get the munchies renovated, modern apartments of various
at 2am?). sizes, under the moniker Chandler Studios
(Map p240; www.chandlerstudiosboston.com; 54
HI-BOSTON HOSTEL $ Berkeley St; ste from $269; aW; YBack Bay).
Map p242 (%617-536-9455; www.bostonhostel.
org; 19 Stuart St; dm $55-65, d $199; a iW; MILNER HOTEL HOTEL $$
YChinatown or Boylston) S HI-Boston sets Map p242 (%617-453-1731, 617-426-6220; www.
the standard for urban hostels, with its milner-hotels.com; 78 Charles St S; s/d from
new, ecofriendly facility in the historic Dill $159/179; pWs; YBoylston) Mr Milner said
Building. Purpose-built rooms are comfort- it himself back in 1918: ‘A bed and a bath for
able and clean, as are the shared bathrooms. a buck and a half.’ Prices have gone up since
Community spaces are numerous, from ful- then, but the Milner Hotel still offers excel-
ly equipped kitchen to trendy ground-floor lent value for this central location. Itinerant
cafe, and there’s a whole calendar of activi- actors and international travelers frequent
ties on offer. The place is large, but it books this affordable Theater District hostelry,
out, so reserve in advance. which offers threadbare rooms with pass-
able decor. The price includes a continental
40 BERKELEY HOSTEL $ breakfast.
Map p240 (%617-375-2524; www.40berkeley.
com; 40 Berkeley St; s/d/tr/q from REVERE HOTEL DESIGN HOTEL $$$
$95/103/121/130; W; YBack Bay) Straddling Map p242 (%617-482-1800; www.revereho-
the South End and Back Bay, this safe, tel.com; 200 Stuart St; d from $379; p aW;
friendly hostelry was the first YWCA in the YBoylston) It’s hard to enter the circular
country. It’s no longer a Y, but it still rents lobby without contemplating the center-
some 200 basic rooms (some overlooking piece Serra-inspired sculpture. But that’s
the lovely garden) to guests on a nightly just the beginning of the artistic flare at the
184
Revere Hotel, as the rooms are replete with and the South End. A judicious use of an-
furniture, light fixtures and other contem- tique wood and big windows beaming with
porary design elements that marry form light make this Queen Anne–style inn a
and function. City views are wonderful, es- place of respite, while the location makes
pecially from the rooftop lounge. it a handy base of operations for exploring
Boston. The simple kitchenette rooms are
CLARENDON SQUARE INN B&B $$$ not large, but they offer exceptional value.
Map p240 (%617-536-2229; www.clarendons-
quare.com; 198 W Brookline St; d $298; p aW; COMMONWEALTH COURT
YPrudential) Located on a quiet residential GUEST HOUSE GUESTHOUSE $$
street in the South End, this completely ren- Map p244 (%617-424-1230; www.common
ovated brownstone is a designer’s dream. wealthcourt.com; 284 Commonwealth Ave; r $99-
Guest room details might include Italian 140, per week $400-600; a ; YHynes) These 20
Sle e pi n g B A C K B AY
marble wainscoting, French limestone rooms with kitchenettes are not super spif-
floors, a silver-leaf barrel-vaulted ceiling fy, but the price is right for this great loca-
or a hand-forged iron-and-porcelain wash- tion. The Euro-style guesthouse is located
basin. Common areas are decadent (for ex- in a turn-of-the-20th-century brownstone
ample, the roof-deck hot tub); continental in the heart of Back Bay. Once a private
breakfast is served in the paneled dining residence, it retains a homey feel and lots of
room and butler’s pantry. lavish architectural details.
The service is pleasant, but not overly
attentive (maid service occurs only twice a
4 Back Bay week and the office closes in the evenings).
oNEWBURY GUEST HOUSE GUESTHOUSE $$ COPLEY INN GUESTHOUSE $$
Map p244 (%617-437-7666, 617-437-7668; www. Map p244 (%617-236-0300, 617-232-0306; www.
newburyguesthouse.com; 261 Newbury St; d from copleyinn.com; 19 Garrison St; r $195; YPruden-
$209; p aW; YHynes or Copley) Dating to tial) This sweet old brownstone is tucked
1882, these three interconnected brick and into the residential streets behind Copley
brownstone buildings offer a prime loca- Place: it’s about as close as you can get to
tion in the heart of Newbury St. A recent Newbury St while preserving the sense that
renovation has preserved the charming fea- you’re nesting in a slightly quieter neighbor-
tures like ceiling medallions and in-room hood. Equipped with kitchens and queen-
fireplaces, but now the rooms feature clean size beds, rooms in this four-story walk-up
lines, luxurious linens and modern ameni- are relatively roomy, if a bit plain.
ties. Each morning, a complimentary con-
463 BEACON STREET
tinental breakfast is laid out next to the
GUEST HOUSE GUESTHOUSE $$
marble fireplace in the salon.
Map p244 (% 617-536-1302; www.463beacon.
CHARLESMARK HOTEL BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ com; 463 Beacon St; d without/with bathroom
Map p244 (%617-247-1212; www.thecharlesmark. from $149/199; p aW; YHynes) This Back
com; 655 Boylston St; r $219-269; p aW; YCo- Bay brownstone (c 1880 ) is showing its
pley) The Charlesmark’s small but sleek age, but at least it retains architectural
rooms are at the crossroads of European frolics, like a spiral staircase, wrought-
style and functionality. The design is clas- iron filigrees and high ceilings. Rooms
sic modernism, and the effect is upscale, vary in size and decor, but some of the
urbane and relatively affordable. This hip fancier ones feature hardwood floors and
hotel is backed by a small group of warmly ornamental fireplaces. Daily maid ser-
efficient staff that see to every detail. The vice is not offered. Some bathrooms are
downstairs lounge spills out onto the side- cramped – hopefully you won’t be spend-
walk where the people-watching is tops. ing too much time in there.
Complimentary continental breakfast.
MIDTOWN HOTEL MOTEL $$
COPLEY HOUSE APARTMENT $$ Map p244 (%617-262-1000; www.midtown-

Map p244 (%617-236-8300; www.copleyhouse. hotel.com; 220 Huntington Ave; r $199-259;
com; 239 W Newton St; s/d from $135/165; aW; p aWs# ; YSymphony) This low-rise mo-
YPrudential) Copley House occupies four tel looks like it belongs beside a highway
different buildings, straddling Back Bay instead of in the shadow of the Prudential
185
Center, but its spacious rooms fill up with Bay and the South End, this stunner is
families and tour groups because the price housed in the former Boston Police Head-
is right and the location is unbeatable. The quarters. The recent renovation resulted in
service is friendly and efficient. luxurious rooms done in blues and browns
and beiges, furnished with pillow-top beds,
INN @ ST BOTOLPH BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ high-tech gadgetry and sweet serenity.
Map p244 (%617-236-8099; www.innatstbotolph.
com; 99 St Botolph St; ste $315-390; p aW; LENOX HOTEL HISTORIC HOTEL $$$
YPrudential) Whimsical but wonderful, this Map p244 (%617-536-5300; www.lenoxhotel.
delightful brownstone boutique empha- com; 61 Exeter St; r $315-365; p aW; YCopley)
sizes affordable luxury. Spacious, light-filled S For three generations, the Saunders fam-
rooms feature bold patterns and contem- ily has run this gem in Back Bay. And while
porary decor, fully equipped kitchens, and the atmosphere is a tad old-world, you don’t
Sle e pi n g K E N M O R E S Q U A R E & F E N WAY

all the high-tech bells and whistles. Fore- have to forgo modern conveniences to live
shadowing a coming trend, the hotel keeps with that ethos. Guest rooms are comfort-
prices down by offering ‘edited service,’ with ably elegant (with chandeliers and crown
virtual check-in, keyless entry and ‘touch- molding), without being stuffy. If your
up’ housekeeping, minimizing the need for pockets are deep enough, it’s worth splurg-
costly staff. Free continental breakfast. ing for a junior suite, as they boast the best
views.The Lenox is a pioneer in green hospi-
COLLEGE CLUB GUESTHOUSE $$$ tality, implementing hundreds of initiatives
Map p244 (%617-536-9510; www.thecollege- to reduce its impact on the environment.
clubofboston.com; 44 Commonwealth Ave; s
without bathroom from $179, d with bathroom COPLEY SQUARE HOTEL HOTEL $$$
$259-289; aW; YArlington) Originally a pri- Map p244 (%617-225-7062, 617-536-9000; www.
vate club for female college graduates, the copleysquarehotel.com; 47 Huntington Ave; r
College Club has 11 spacious rooms with $269-319; p aW; YCopley or Back Bay) The
high ceilings, now open to both sexes. Pe- Copley Square Hotel is downright sump-
riod details – typical of the area’s Victorian tuous, with gorgeous contemporary rooms
brownstones – include claw-foot tubs, orna- decorated in muted tones of taupe and gray,
mental fireplaces and bay windows. Local with subtle lines and soft fabrics. Flatscreen
designers have lent their skills to decorate TVs and iPod docks are de rigueur. The
the various rooms, with delightful results. morning coffee bar and afternoon Wine
Prices include a continental breakfast. Down are lovely perks.
COLONNADE HOTEL $$$ HOTEL 140 HOTEL $$$

Map p244 (%617-424-7000; www.colonnade- Map p244 (%617-585-5440; www.hotel140.com;
hotel.com; 120 Huntington Ave; r from $329; 140 Clarendon St; r from $239; p a iW; YCop-
p aWs# ; YPrudential) S There are many ley or Back Bay) Once a hidden hotel bargain,
reasons to stay at the Colonnade, such as Hotel 140 has gone upscale with a complete
its handsome guest rooms, which are well overhaul of its classic brick building. It still
equipped with both high-tech gadgetry and feels like a budget hotel in the hallways, but
simple pleasures (like a rubber duck in your step into the small but stylish rooms, filled
bathtub). There’s the VIPets program, com- with light, and you’ll forget about that. De-
plete with fluffy beds and walking services. spite all the upgrades, the best thing about
And of course there’s the excellent dining this place is still the friendly staff.
and the fabulous location.
But the real reason to stay at the Col-
onnade is the rooftop pool, or RTP, as it’s 4 Kenmore Square &
known. A glamorous place to see and be Fenway
seen in your bikini, it’s also optimal for al
fresco dining, sunbathing and even swim- OASIS GUEST HOUSE
ming. Open to nonguests weekdays only. & ADAMS B&B GUESTHOUSE $$
Map p247 (%617-230-0105, 617-267-2262; www.
LOEWS HOTEL HOTEL $$$
oasisguesthouse.com; 22 Edgerly Rd; s/d without
Map p244 (%617-266-7200; www.loewshotels. bathroom $109/149, r with bathroom from $189;
com; 154 Berkeley St; r from $368; p aW# ; p aW; YHynes or Symphony) These homey
YBack Bay) Perched on the border of Back
side-by-side (jointly managed) guesthouses
1 86
offer a peaceful, pleasant oasis in the midst just steps away from Fenway Park, this in-
of Boston’s chaotic city streets. Thirty-odd dependent luxury hotel enjoys prime real
guest rooms occupy four attractive, brick, estate. Spacious Commonwealth rooms are
bow-front town houses on this tree-lined more like suites, with king-size beds and
lane. The modest, light-filled rooms are two LCD TVs. Fenway rooms are slightly
tastefully and traditionally decorated, most smaller, but they do offer a view into the
with queen beds, floral quilts and nonde- ballpark. Guests can enjoy the amazing ser-
script prints. The common living room does vices and amenities, which range from turn-
not exactly encourage lingering, but out- down service to iPods and PlayStations.
door decks and kitchen facilities are nice
touches. Free continental breakfast. ELIOT HOTEL BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
Map p247 (%617-267-1607; www.eliothotel.com;
HOTEL BUCKMINSTER HOTEL $$ 370 Commonwealth Ave; r $285-345; p aW# ;
Sle e pi n g S E A P O R T D I S T R I C T & S O U T H B O S T O N
Map p247 (%617-727-2825; www.bostonhotel- YHynes) Akin to a small London hotel, the
buckminster.com; 645 Beacon St; r from $220; Eliot offers posh quarters, furnished in
p aW# ; YKenmore) Designed by the ar- English chintz and Queen Anne mahogany;
chitect of the Boston Public Library, the bathroom walls are dressed with Italian
Buckminster is a convergence of Old Bos- marble. Other upscale amenities include
ton charm and affordable elegance. It of- plush terry robes and down duvets, compli-
fers nearly 100 rooms and suites of varying mentary shoe-shine service and turn-down
shapes and sizes. They’re not going to win service. Two acclaimed restaurants are on
any design awards, but they have all the the 1st floor.
tools and toys of comfort and convenience.
Pay more for Fenway views.
oVERB HOTEL BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$

4 Seaport District &
Map p247 (%855-695-6678; www.theverbhotel.
South Boston
com; 1271 Boylston St; r from $250; p aWs# ; With the opening of the Boston Convention
YKenmore) The Verb Hotel took a down-
& Exhibition Center, this district has be-
and-out HoJo property and turned it into come a hotbed of hotel development. It’s a
Boston’s most radical, retro, rock and roll bit removed from the action unless you are
hotel. The style is mid-century modern; the actually attending an event at the conven-
theme is music. Memorabilia is on display tion center, but it’s nirvana for seafood eat-
throughout the joint, with a jukebox crank- ers and art connoisseurs. Bonus: it’s also an
ing out tunes in the lobby. Classy, clean- easy trip from the airport.
lined rooms face the swimming pool or
Fenway Park. A-plus for service and style. RESIDENCE INN
MARRIOTT BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
oGRYPHON HOUSE B&B $$$
Map p239 (%617-478-0840; www.residen-
Map p247 (%617-375-9003; www.innboston. ceinn.com/bosfp; 370 Congress St; r $349-399;
com; 9 Bay State Rd; r $225-275; p aW; YKen- p aW; gSL1 or SL2, YSouth Station) This is
more) A premier example of Richardson not your typical Marriott. Housed in a his-
Romanesque, this beautiful five-story toric, brick warehouse, this boutique hotel
brownstone is a paradigm of artistry and now features an old-style atrium and glass
luxury overlooking the picturesque Charles elevators leading up to spectacular, spa-
River. Eight spacious suites have different cious suites. Twelve-foot ceilings and enor-
styles, including Victorian, Gothic and Arts mous windows are in every room, as is a
and Crafts, but they all have 19th-century floor-to-ceiling cityscape mural. King-size
period details. And they all have home- beds, fully equipped kitchens and up-to-
away-from-home perks such as entertain- date gadgetry ensure optimal comfort and
ment centers, wet bars and gas fireplaces. convenience.
Prices include a delicious breakfast.
SEAPORT BOSTON HOTEL HOTEL $$$
HOTEL COMMONWEALTH HOTEL $$$
Map p239 (%617-385-4000; www.seaport-
Map p247 (%617-933-5000, 617-784-4000; www. boston.com; 1 Seaport Lane; r $239-379;
hotelcommonwealth.com; 500 Commonwealth p aWs# ; gSL1 or SL2, YSouth Station) S
Ave; r $389-439; p aW; YKenmore) Set amid With glorious views of the Boston Harbor,
Commonwealth Ave’s brownstones and this business hotel is up-to-snuff when it
1 87 1 87
comes to high-tech amenities (eg automatic mixed reviews, nobody disputes that it is
motion-sensitive lights so you never have indeed ‘a friendly inn.’ Service is accom-
to enter a dark room, and privacy/service modating and efficient, offering a clean
lights instead of the old-fashioned ‘Do Not and quiet respite for budget travelers. The
Disturb’ signs). Soothing tones, plush linens old maxim holds true, however: you get
and robes, and a unique no-tipping policy what you pay for. Be prepared to sleep in
guarantee a relaxing retreat. cramped quarters and to forgo the fancy-
pants amenities you may find at an upscale
hotel.
4 Cambridge A continental breakfast is included, but
you may want to head to the cafe down the
KENDALL HOTEL BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ street for your morning meal.
Map p252 (%617-566-1300; www.kendallhotel.
Sle e pi n g C A M B R I D G E
com; 350 Main St; r $198-248; p aW; YKend- HOTEL VERITAS BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
all/MIT) Once the Engine 7 Firehouse, this Map p250 (%617-520-5000; www.thehotelveri-
city landmark is now a cool and classy all- tas.com; 1 Remington St; r from $329; p aW;
American hotel. The 65 guest rooms exhibit YHarvard) Most guests agree that the
a firefighter riff, alongside the requisite super-chic design and top-notch service
creature comforts. The place could use more than make up for the small size of the
some extra help at the front desk, but at rooms at this Harvard Sq newcomer. Rich
least there’s no scrimping at the breakfast fabrics, shimmering textures and local art-
table. Indeed, the on-site Black Sheep res- work adorn the rooms. Dressed to the nines
taurant is worth visiting for lunch or din- in Brooks Brothers uniforms, the Veritas
ner, too. team does whatever it takes to ensure a sat-
isfying and truly special experience.
IRVING HOUSE GUESTHOUSE $$
Map p250 (%617-547-4600; www.irvinghouse. CHARLES HOTEL HOTEL $$$
com; 24 Irving St; s/d without bathroom $135/165, Map p250 (%617-864-1200; www.charleshotel.
r with bathroom from $185; p a iW; YHar- com; 1 Bennett St; r from $349; p aW# ; YHar-
vard) S Call it a big inn or a homey hotel, vard) ‘Simple, Stylish, Smart.’ Harvard Sq’s
this property welcomes the world-weariest most illustrious hotel lives up to its motto.
of travelers. The 44 rooms range in size, Overlooking the Charles River, this institu-
but every bed is covered with a quilt and tion has hosted the university’s most es-
big windows let in plenty of light. There is teemed guests, ranging from Bob Barker to
a bistro-style atmosphere in the brick-lined the Dalai Lama. Design at the Charles – in-
basement, where you can browse the books cluding rooms and restaurants – is surpris-
on hand, plan your travels or munch on free ingly sleek, but the facilities do not lack the
continental breakfast. luxuries and amenities one would expect
from a highly rated hotel.
HARDING HOUSE INN $$
Map p252 (%617-876-2888; www.harding- HARVARD SQUARE HOTEL HOTEL $$$
house.com; 288 Harvard St; r without bathroom Map p250 (%617-864-5200; www.harvards-
$155-165, with bathroom $210-260; p a iW; quarehotel.com; 110 Mt Auburn St; d $239-319;
YCentral) This treasure brilliantly blends p a iW; YHarvard) After a long overdue
refinement and comfort, artistry and renovation, the square’s namesake hotel is
efficiency. Old wooden floors toss back a looking fine. Brand new rooms feature bold
warm glow and sport throw rugs. Antique patterns and warm colors, with oversize
furnishings complete the inviting atmos- photos of local sites adorning the walls.
phere. Noise does travel in this old house, Large windows offer excellent views of the
but the place is quite comfortable. Other surrounding square. The location – smack
perks: free parking (!), a thoughtfully de- dab in the middle of Harvard Sq – is pretty
signed continental breakfast and compli- unbeatable
mentary museum passes.
ROYAL SONESTA HOTEL $$$
A FRIENDLY INN GUESTHOUSE $$ Map p252 (%617-806-4200; www.sonesta.com;
Map p250 (%617-547-7851; www.afinow.com; 40 Edwin Land Blvd; r $239-359; p aWs;
1673 Cambridge St; r $97-197; p aW; YHar- YScience Park) After a recent renovation,
vard) While this Victorian-era inn gets the Royal Sonesta now sports smallish
188
rooms with a sharp black-and-white mo- els, leaded windows and, if you play your
tif. Those facing the river yield some of the cards right, a working fireplace in your
most expansive city views around. Besides room. Amenities and services match those
the luxurious rooms and up-to-date ameni- of high-end hotels.
ties, there’s an incredible contemporary art The same owners run the Samuel
collection on display throughout the public Sewall Inn (% 617-713-0123; www.samuelsewall
spaces, including the awesome ArtBar. inn.com; 143 St Paul Ave) across the street –
The Royal Sonesta overlooks the river an exquisitely restored Victorian with
in East Cambridge, just around the corner even more rooms. Both places boast tree-
from the Museum of Science. shaded patios, a full gourmet breakfast
and a location a heartbeat from the Hub
HOTEL MARLOWE BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ of the Universe.
Map p252 (%617-825-7140; www.hotelmarlowe.
Sle e pi n g S T R E E T C A R S U B U R B S
com; 25 Edwin Land Blvd; d $249-349; p aW# ; LONGWOOD INN GUESTHOUSE $$

YLechmere or Science Park) S The Kimpton Map p254 (%617-566-8615; www.longwood-inn.
Hotel Group’s flagship property in the Bos- com; 123 Longwood Ave; r $144-164, ste $174;
ton area, just steps from the Charles River, p aW; YCoolidge Corner) This big old Victo-
embodies chic and unique, as this organiza- rian mansion is in an odd location midway
tion always tries to do. Perks include down between Coolidge Corner and Longwood.
comforters, Sony PlayStations and the New Affordable rates (including cheaper week-
York Times delivered to your door – enough ly rates) attract many long-term guests,
to please everyone. especially folks working in the nearby
Hotel Marlowe is in East Cambridge, medical district. Simple rooms have an old-
steps from the Museum of Science and just fashioned charm, with floral bedspreads
across the bridge from the West End. and antique furniture. The cheapest rooms
have detached private bathrooms. Recep-
tion closes at 9pm.
4 Streetcar Suburbs BEECH TREE INN B&B $$
The streetcar suburbs are a sweet retreat Map p254 (% 617-227-1620; www.thebeech-
if the city makes you feel claustrophobic. treeinn.com; 83 Longwood Ave; s/d without
Grand elm trees shade the wide green bathroom $129/159, d with bathroom $189-199;
lawns and gracious mansions, and a short p a iW; Y Longwood) This turn-of-the-
ride on the T brings you into town. 20th-century Victorian home contains 10
guest rooms, each individually decorated
oTAYLOR HOUSE B&B $$ with period furnishings and wallpaper,
Map p255 (%617-983-9334; www.taylorhouse. ornamental fireplaces with hand-painted
com; 50 Burroughs St; s $165-179, d $189-209, ste screens, floral quilts and lacy curtains.
$239-369; p aW; YGreen St) Sitting pretty Common areas include a cozy parlor and a
pond-side in Jamaica Plain, this gracious patio. It’s a romantic return to yesteryear,
Italianate Victorian mansion has undergone on a quiet residential street not far from
a loving restoration – apparent from the Coolidge Corner and the Back Bay Fens.
ornamental details throughout the house Breakfast included.
and the gorgeous gardens outside. The spa-
cious guest rooms have dark polished-wood ANTHONY’S TOWN HOUSE GUESTHOUSE $$
floors, sleigh beds, bold contemporary art Map p254 (%617-566-3972; www.anthonystown-
and plenty of sunshine. The suites are in the house.com; 1085 Beacon St; r with shared bath-
carriage house behind. Dave is your decora- room from $125; aW; YHawes St) Halfway
tor, designer and amazing host. between Coolidge Corner and Kenmore Sq,
this family-operated guesthouse puts the
BERTRAM INN B&B $$ rolled ‘r’ in rococo. With more frills and
Map p254 (%617-295-3822, 617-566-2234; flourishes than should be allowed in one
www.bertraminn.com; 92 Sewall Ave; r $189- place at one time, the Victorian-era brown-
219; p aW# ; YSt Paul) Brookline’s tree- stone is downright girly. The 10 rooms are
lined streets shelter this dreamy, Arts and spacious and comfortable and filled with
Crafts–style inn, located only a quick jaunt antiques and lacy linens. Affable owners
from downtown Boston. A quiet elegance is and cheap rates attract plenty of repeat visi-
accented with beautifully carved oak pan- tors. Cash only!
1 89
Understand
Boston
BOSTON TODAY. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190
Two new execs face challenges and opportunities – legalized
gambling, dysfunctional transportation systems and dreams
of Olympic glory.
HISTORY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192
The history of Boston is the history of a nation, from the
earliest settlement to the recent past.
ARTS & ARCHITECTURE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201

Once dubbed the Athens of America, Boston is a cauldron
of creativity, where art, architecture, music and literature
continue to thrive.
UNIVERSITIES & COLLEGES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204

From September to May, Boston overflows with the
exuberance of the local student population – a renewable
source of cultural energy.
190
Boston
Today
Boston is at a turning point. Major urban development projects have been completed,
neighborhoods have been transformed, the waterfronts are sparkling and the cityscape
looks fantastic. Boston is thriving economically. There’s a new mayor at the helm – and
he’s thinking big. Predictably, the challenges facing Boston are also big. That’s okay…we
need something to grumble about.
Best on Film Changing of the Guard

The Verdict (1982) Paul Newman as a After serving five terms for a total of 20 years, Thomas
Boston lawyer. Menino stepped down as the mayor of Boston in 2014.
Good Will Hunting (1997) Put Menino was Boston’s longest-serving mayor, credited
Southie on the Hollywood map. with reviving neighborhoods, taking a stand for LGBT
Next Stop Wonderland (1997) rights and greening the city. The ‘mayor for life’ died
Heartwarming independent film with later that same year.
a bossa nova soundtrack. The current mayor, Marty Walsh, has big shoes to
The Departed (2006) Suspense-filled fill. A Dorchester native and Boston College graduate,
mob movie that won Best Picture. Walsh served in the Massachusetts House of Repre-
John Adams (2008) Critically ac- sentative for 13 years before being elected mayor. While
claimed TV series chronicling the life campaigning, Walsh promised to turn Boston into a
and times of the second US president. 24-hour city. To that end, Bostonians can now ride the
T until 2am on weekends. Thanks, Mr Mayor!
Best in Print Also in 2014, Deval Patrick declined to run for re-
The Scarlet Letter (Nathaniel Haw- election as the Governor of Massachusetts, after two
thorne; 1850) Hypocrisy and malice in terms in office. The Commonwealth’s first African
Puritan New England. American governor, Patrick’s legacy includes improve-
The Given Day (Dennis Lehane; ments in education, an overhaul of the Department of
2008) A suspense-filled historical Transportation and the introduction of casino gaming.
novel, following two families through His successor is Republican Charlie Baker.
the turmoil of post–WWI Boston.
Interpreter of the Maladies (Jhumpa Taking a Gamble
Lahiri; 1999) A Pulitzer Prize–winner In 2011, the Massachusetts legislature passed a law
that addresses the challenges of that would allow the establishment of three resort-
migration and multiculturalism. style casinos and one slot parlor in the Commonwealth.
The Friends of Eddie Coyle (George Although casino gaming promises jobs and revenue, it
Higgins, 1972) A crime novel that is not without detractors; but a statewide referendum
provides a crash course in the Boston failed to repeal the legislation.
dialect. Among the sites selected for the gaming facilities is
Infinite Jest (David Foster Wallace; Everett, an industrial city, largely populated by immi-
1996) A 1000-page tome that is at grants, four miles north of Boston. The gambling giant
once philosophical and satirical. Wynn Resorts has promised to clean up a former in-
dustrial wasteland on the Mystic River and transform
the site into a casino resort. The development has been
mired in controversy, not least because a convicted
191
felon is among its owners (prohibited by the Mas-
sachusetts Gaming Commission). More importantly,
the development has been condemned by surround-
ing towns – including Boston – which anticipate
if Boston
sharing the ill effects (if not the benefits) of a large were 100 people
casino resort.
Riding that Train

The winter of 2015 was tough on Bostonians. It wasn’t
just the 105in of snow that fell – most of it within 30
days. It wasn’t only the shortage of street parking,
causing neighbors to claim public parking spaces,
47 would be Non-Hispanic Whites
leave threatening notes and even vandalize others’ 22 would be Black or African American
cars. The kicker was when the T shut down – for days 18 would be Hispanic or Latino
at a time – for snow cleanup and track de-icing. 9 would be Asian
Shutting down service was perhaps better than 2 would be two or more races
the alternative. Delayed service, stranded trains and 2 would be other
even forced evacuations were recurring problems for
much of the winter. Commuters tweeted their hor-
ror stories under #MBTApocalypse. The MBTA’s poor
performance during ‘Snowmageddon’ led to the res-
ignation of General Manager Beverly Scott.
The extreme weather highlighted longer-term Educational
problems with the century-old transportation sys- attainment
tem. Aging train cars (some nearly 50 years old) and (% of population)
outdated power and signaling systems are just the
16 24 23
beginning of the list of maintenance issues requiring
attention. Unfortunately, the underfunded transpor- High school High school Bachelor's
tation agency does not have the finances to address not completed degree degree
these problems, partly due to existing debt. Even Scott
cited protracted underinvestment in maintenance as 19 18
a source of the MBTA’s performance problems.
With the arrival of spring, the snow melted and Some college or Graduate or
the parking spaces reappeared. But the MBTA re- associate's degree professional degree
mains quite broken – and nobody is sure how to fix
it. One Charlestown man launched a GoFundMe
campaign to raise $30 billion to modernize Boston’s
transit. That would be a good start.
Bidding on the Future

Boston has been selected as the US candidate-city for
the 2024 summer Olympic games (www.boston2024.
org). A successful bid would transform the city, with population per sq mile
the creation of an Olympic Blvd along the Fort Point USA BOSTON
Channel, an Olympic Park along the South Boston

waterfront and an Athlete’s Village further south at
Columbia Point. Not surprisingly, Boston 2024 has
inspired a vocal and active opposition movement;
No Boston Olympics (www.nobostonolympics.org)
argues that the city should not divert its resources
from more essential priorities like education and ≈ 87 people
transportation.
Whether or not Boston is chosen as an Olympic
host – a decision that will be made by the Interna-
tional Olympic Commission in 2017 – the city is likely
to see some initial investment and hear lots of heated
discussion in the coming years.
192
History
In 1614 English explorer Captain John Smith, at the behest of the future King Charles I,
set sail to assess the New World’s commercial opportunities. Braving the frigid North
Atlantic, the plucky explorer reached the rocky coast of present-day Maine and made
his way southward to Cape Cod, making contact with the native population, mapping
the coastline and dubbing the region ‘New England.’ Smith noted a tricapped hilly
peninsula, connected to the mainland by a narrow neck across a shallow back bay,
and with an excellent harbor fed by three rivers. Valued for its freshwater spring, the
region was known to the natives as Shawmut.
The Shawmut Peninsula

Prior to the 17th century, there were as many as 100,000 native inhabit-
ants of New England, mostly of the Algonquan nation, organized into
small regional tribes that variously cooperated and quarreled with one
another.
Before England’s religious outcasts (the Puritans) showed up, local
natives were already acquainted with Portuguese fishermen, French
fur traders, Dutch merchants and Jesuit missionaries. The Europeans
were welcomed as a source of valued goods, but they were also feared.
In the Great Sadness of 1616–17, a smallpox epidemic devastated the
native population, reducing it by three-quarters.
English colonial coastal encampments quickly spread, as seemingly
unoccupied lands were claimed for king and commodity. According
to John Winthrop, the first governor of the colony, ‘God hath hereby
cleared our title to this place.’
In 1675 Chief Metacomet, son of the famed Massasoit who befriend-
ed the starving Pilgrims, organized a desperate last stand against the
ever-encroaching English. Known as King Philip to the settlers, he
terrorized the frontier for more than a year before he was finally am-
bushed and killed. The chief’s body was drawn and quartered and his
heathen head perched on a pole, while his son was sold into slavery.
In less than a hundred years, disease, war and forced migration had
reduced the indigenous population by 90%.
1614 1629 1630

English explorer The shareholders of Led by Governor John
Captain John the Massachusetts Winthrop, Puritan
Smith surveys the Bay Colony sign settlers flee the
coast of Maine and the Cambridge repressive Church of
Massachusetts. He Agreement, which England and move
recounts the journey allows the Puritans to the theocratic
in his Description of to govern the colony Massachusetts Bay
New England. and to answer only to Colony.
the king.
193
Mission from God
Seventeenth-century England was torn by religious strife. The Puri-
tans, austere Calvinists, wanted to purify the Anglican Church of all
vestiges of pomp, pope and privilege. James I, annoyed by these non-
conformists, threatened to ‘harry them out of the country.’
As the fortunes of the faithful diminished, New England held out
H is to ry M issi o n f r o m G o d
hope of renewal. The first trickle of Protestant immigrants came in
1620, when the Pilgrims established a small colony in Plymouth. Ten
years later, the flagship Arbella led a flotilla of a thousand Puritans
on the treacherous transatlantic crossing. In June 1630, their leader,
country squire John Winthrop, gazed out on the Shawmut Peninsula History
and declared, ‘we shall be as a City upon a Hill, with the eyes of all Syllabus
people upon us.’ Paul Revere’s Ride
They landed first near Salem and settled further south at present-day (David Hackett
Charlestown. Across the river, the Shawmut Peninsula was at this time Fischer)
occupied by the Reverend William Blackstone, who had survived an ear-
John Adams
lier failed settlement. He invited Winthrop and his scurvy-ridden com- (David
pany to move closer to fresh water. They named their new home Boston, McCullough)
after the town in Lincolnshire where many of the Pilgrims had lived.
Where Death
Meets Glory
Piety, Power & Profits (Russell Duncan)
The new settlement was governed by a spiritual elite – a Puritan theoc- The Rascal King
racy. As such, the Church dominated early colonial life. (Jack Beatty)
Divine Law was above all, and the state was put in service to the Common Ground
Church. The General Court, a select assembly of Church members, be- (J Anthony Lukas)
came the principal mechanism for lawmaking, while the governor was
endowed with extensive powers to enforce the laws. Local affairs were
settled at regular meetings, open to the freemen of each town. (Women
were allowed to attend if they did not talk.) The tradition of town meet-
ings became a cornerstone of American democracy.
Meanwhile, Boston became a boomtown. The first inhabitants were
concentrated near the waterfront, behind the town dock. The back side
of the hill served as ‘common’ lands. Newcomers fanned out along the
rivers, looking for farmland and founding new settlements. Fortunes
were made in the maritime trades – fishing, shipbuilding, and com-
merce with the Old World. Well into the 18th century, Boston was the
richest city in the American colonies.
But population and prosperity put pressure on Puritan principles.
Modesty gave way to display. Red-brick mansions appeared on Beacon
Hill, tables were set with fine china and silk linens, and women’s shoul-
ders were fashionably exposed.
1635 1636 1638 1675–76

The first public school, Church leaders found Anne Hutchinson is Colonists engage
now the Boston Latin a college to train banished from the in battle with the
School, is founded in ministers for their colony for contesting Wampanoag and
the Massachusetts role in the theocracy. the ministers. She other native tribes
Bay Colony, Three years later, the and her followers over the settlers’
symbolizing the college is named for establish an outpost expansion. Known as
importance of literacy its first benefactor, the near present-day King Philip’s War, the
and education in the young minister John Portsmouth, Rhode conflict devastates the
Puritan philosophy. Harvard. Island. indigenous population.
194
The Church lost its monopoly on governing when the royal charter
was revised to make property-holding the basis for political rights. Life
in colonial Boston increasingly felt tension between community and
individual, piety and profit.
From Empire to Independence

The demands of empire kept England at war. Colonists were drawn
H is to ry Fr o m E mpire t o I n d epe n d e n ce
into the fighting in the French–Indian War. Despite their victory, all
the colonists got was a tax bill from the king. Covetous of New Eng-
land’s maritime wealth, the Crown pronounced a series of Navigation
Acts, restricting colonial trade. Boston merchants conducted business
as usual, except now it was on the sly.
The issue of taxation brought the clash between king and colony to
a head. In the 1760s, Parliament passed the Stamp Act, the Townsend
Acts and the Tea Act – all of which placed greater financial burdens on
the colonists. With each new tax and toll, colonial resentment intensi-
fied, as exhibited by vocal protests and violent mobs. The acts of defi-
ance were defended by respectable lawyer John Adams, who cited the
Magna Carta’s principle of ‘no taxation without representation.’
To each act of rebellion, the British throne responded with increasing-
ly severe measures, eventually dispatching Redcoat regiments known as
‘regulars’ to restore order and suspending all local political power.
Under siege on the street, unrepentant Bostonians went under-
ground. The Sons of Liberty, a clandestine network of patriots, stirred
Anne Hutchinson up public resistance to British policy and harassed the king’s loyalists.
was a religious They were led by some well-known townsmen, including esteemed sur-
free-thinker who
geon Dr Joseph Warren, upper-class merchant John Hancock, skilled
was banished
from the Mas- silversmith Paul Revere and bankrupt brewer Sam Adams. Branded as
sachusetts Bay treasonous rebels by the king, the Sons of Liberty became more radical
Colony. Hutch- and popular as the imperial grip tightened.
inson insisted The resented Redcoat presence did not extinguish, but rather in-
on freedom of
flamed, local passions. In March 1770 a motley street gang provoked
religion as a
founding princi- British regulars with slurs and snowballs until the troops fired into the
ple in the charter crowd, killing five and wounding six. John Adams successfully defend-
of Rhode Island, ed the British troops, who were found to be acting in self-defense. The
which would later Sons of Liberty, however, scored a propaganda coup with their depic-
influence the US
tions of the Boston Massacre, as the incident came to be called.
Constitution.
Shot Heard Round the World

Until now, all but the most pugnacious of patriots would have been
satisfied with colonial economic autonomy and political representation.
1689 1700–50 1754–63 1760

The Glorious Immigration is spurred The British fight A devastating fire
Revolution overthrows by the promise of land over North American destroys more than
the Stuart Kings. The and by opportunities territory in the 300 buildings in town
royal governor – who in fishing, shipbuilding French–Indian War. and 10 merchant ships
has angered colonists and trade. By the The war debt causes in the harbor. The city
through his affiliation middle of the century, the Crown to increase seeks aid from the
with the Church of the population of colonial taxes. Crown, but none is
England – is run out Boston reaches forthcoming.
of town. 15,000.
195
But the king’s coercive tactics aroused indignity and acrimony. Both
sides were spoiling for a fight.
British General Gage was sent over with 4000 troops and a fleet of
warships. Local townsfolk and yeoman farmers organized themselves
into Minutemen groups, citizen militias that could mobilize in a minute.
When royal rev-
They drilled on town commons and stockpiled weapons in secret stores. enue agents were
In April 1775 Gage saw the chance to break colonial resistance. Acting sent from London
H is to ry S h o t H ear d R o u n d the W o rl d
on a tip from a local informant, Gage dispatched 700 troops on the road to take control
west to arrest fugitives Sam Adams and John Hancock and to seize a hid- of the Boston
den stash of gunpowder. Bostonians had their own informants, including customs house,
they targeted one
Gage’s wife, who tipped off Joseph Warren on the troop movement. of the city’s rich-
Word was then passed to the Old North Church sexton to hang two est merchants,
signal lanterns in the steeple. Paul Revere quietly slipped across the John Hancock,
river into Charlestown, where he mounted Brown Beauty and galloped impounding his
into the night to alert the Minutemen. ship, Liberty,
which was laden
At daybreak, the confrontation finally occurred. ‘Here once the em- with undeclared
battled farmer stood,’ Ralph Waldo Emerson later wrote, ‘and fired the cargo.
shot heard round the world.’ Imperial troops skirmished with Minute-
men on the Old North Bridge in Concord and the Lexington Green. By
midmorning, more militia had arrived and chased the bloodied Red-
coats back to Boston in ignominious defeat. The inevitable had arrived:
the War for Independence.
Boston figured prominently in the early phase of the Ameri-
can Revolution. In June 1775 Bostonians inflicted a hurtful blow on
BOSTON TEA PARTY

In May 1773 the British Parliament passed the Tea Act, granting a trade monopoly to
the politically influential but financially troubled East India Company. In December
three tea-bearing vessels arrived in Boston Harbor, but colonial merchants refused
the shipments. When they tried to depart, Governor Hutchinson demanded their
cargo be unloaded.
At a meeting in the Old South Church, the Sons of Liberty decided to take matters
into their own hands. Disguised as Mohawk Indians, they descended on the water-
front, boarded the ships and dumped 90,000 pounds of taxable tea into the harbor.
The king’s retribution was swift. Legislation was rushed through Parliament to punish
Boston, ‘the center of rebellious commotion in America, the ring leader in every riot.’
The port was blockaded and the city placed under military rule. The Sons of Liberty
spread the news of this latest outrage down the seaboard. The cause of Boston was be-
coming the cause of all the colonies – American independence versus British tyranny.
1767–68 1770 1773 1775

The British Parliament Provoked by a local The British Parliament British troops heed
passes the Townsend gang throwing levies a tax on tea, reports that colonists
Acts, a series of laws snowballs, British which incites an angry are stockpiling
designed to enforce troops fire into a crowd mob to protest by weapons. Warned
the Crown’s right and kill five people. raiding a merchant by Paul Revere and
to tax the colonies. The soldiers are later ship and dumping William Dawes, the
British troops are sent acquitted, but the crates of tea into Minutemen confront
to enforce the acts. incident becomes Boston Harbor. the Redcoats in
known as the Boston Lexington and
Massacre. Concord.
196
British morale at the Battle of Bunker Hill. The British took the hill af-
ter three tries, but their losses were greater than expected. Fighting on
the front line, Dr Warren was killed by a musket shot to the head in the
final British charge. A few weeks later, George Washington assumed
command of the ragged Continental Army on the Cambridge Common.
DECLARATION OF
Britain’s military occupation of the city continued until March 1776,
when Washington mounted captured British cannons on Dorchester
H is to ry Athe n s o f A merica
INDEPENDENCE
Heights and trained them on the British fleet in Boston Harbor. Rather
than see the king’s expensive warships sent to the bottom, the British
evacuated, trashing and looting as they went; Boston was liberated.
Athens of America
In the early 19th century, Boston emerged as a center of enlightenment
in the young republic. The city’s second mayor, Josiah Quincy, led an
effort to remake the city’s underclass into a group of industrious and re-
sponsible citizens. He expanded public education and made the streets
safer and cleaner. The ‘Great Mayor’ revitalized the decaying waterfront
with a refurbished Faneuil Hall and the new Greek Revival market-
place, which bears his name.
Influenced by the idealistic legacy of Puritanism and revolution, Bos-
ton gave rise to the first uniquely American intellectual movement. Led
by Unitarian minister Ralph Waldo Emerson, the transcendentalists
shocked and challenged the Christian establishment with their belief in
the inherent goodness of human nature and an emphasis on individual
self-reliance to achieve spiritual fulfillment. Transcendental influences
are exemplified in the romantic literature of Nathaniel Hawthorne and
the civil disobedience of Henry David Thoreau. Besides philosophy, the
city also became a vibrant cultural center for poetry, painting, archi-
On July 18, 1776, tecture, science and scholarship, earning Boston a reputation as the
Bostonians ‘Athens of America.’
first heard the
Declaration of
Independence
From Sail to Steam
read from the Boston thrived during the Age of Sail. In the 17th century the infamous
balcony of the ‘triangular trade’ route was developed, involving sugar, rum and slaves.
Old State House, Merchants who chose not to traffic in human cargo could still make large
and there was profits by illicitly undercutting European trade monopolies in the West
much rejoicing.
Indies. In his East Boston shipyard, Donald McKay perfected the design
of the clipper ship. The advent of the steam engine in the second half of
the 19th century marked the decline of Boston seafaring prominence.
Early on, Boston’s industry was related to overseas trading: ship-
building, fishing and rum. Besides this, the city had small-scale artisan
shops. During the war, the disruption of commerce caused acute short-
1776 1780 1789–1801 1813

The Continental Army Massachusetts ratifies John Adams of Quincy, Merchant Francis
takes Dorchester its constitution, which MA, serves two terms Cabot Lowell
Heights, giving them – written mostly by as the vice president establishes the
a shot at the Royal John Adams – will and one term as the Boston Manufacturing
Navy ships in the serve as the model for president of the newly Company for the
harbor. The British the US Constitution independent United production of cotton
evacuate Boston, and with its Declaration of States of America. textiles, launching the
the colonies declare Rights and Frame of Industrial Revolution
independence. Government. in New England.
197
ages of manufactured goods. In response, some merchants shifted their
investments into industry, with revolutionary results.
By the middle of the 19th century, steam power and metal machines
were changing the city. Boston became the railroad hub of New Eng-
land. Leather works and shoe-making factories appeared on the edge of
the city. Even Paul Revere abandoned his silversmith shop and set up a
rolling copper mill and foundry.
H is to ry B o st o n ’ s M elti n g P o t
Industrial wealth transformed the landscape. The tops of hills were
cropped and used for landfill to expand its size. Back Bay became a
French-style neighborhood of elegant boulevards, and the South End,
an English-style quarter of intimate courtyards.
Boston’s Melting Pot

For nearly two centuries, the city was ruled by a select group of lead-
ing families, collectively known as the Boston Brahmins. A reference
to the exclusive ruling class in India, the self-deprecating term was
coined by Oliver Wendell Holmes Sr, but was readily adopted by the Boston’s
Original
caste-conscious. Their elite status was claimed through lineage to the Artistic
colonial founders or through wealth from the merchant heyday. They Institutions
dominated city politics and business, mimicked the style and manners
of the European aristocracy, and created exclusive clubs for themselves Museum of Fine
Arts (Fenway)
and cultural institutions for the city.
The rapid rise of industry led to social change. The industrial work- Boston Sym-
force was initially drawn from the region’s young farm women, who phony Orchestra
(Fenway)
lived in dormitories under paternalistic supervision. The ‘mill girls’
were replaced by cheaper immigrant Irish labor in the 1820s. Although Trinity Church
their numbers were still modest, the effect of immigration on local at- (Back Bay)
titudes was great. The world of English-descended Whig Protestants Boston Public
was thrown into turmoil. Library (Back
Disparaged by ‘proper’ Bostonians, the Irish were considered an in- Bay)
ferior race of moral delinquents, whose spoken brogue was not endear-
ing, but rather suggested a shoe in one’s mouth. They undercut workers
in the job market; worse yet, the Irish brought the dreaded religion of
pomp and popery that the Puritans so detested.
A potato famine back home spurred an upsurge in Irish immigra-
tion. Between 1846 and 1856 more than 1000 new immigrants stepped
off the boat every month. It was a human flood tide that the city was not
prepared to absorb. Anti-immigrant and anti-Catholic sentiments were
shrill. The Know Nothing Party sprang up as a political expression of
this rabid nativist reaction.
Subsequent groups of Italian, Portuguese and East European Jewish
immigrants suffered similar indignities. By the end of the 19th century,
the urban landscape resembled a mosaic of clannish ethnic enclaves.
1831 1840s 1850s 1851

Cofounder of the The potato The Fugitive Slave Built in an East Boston
American Anti-Slavery famine spurs Irish Law requires citizens shipyard, Donald
Society, abolitionist immigration to to return runaway McKay’s Flying Cloud
agitator William Lloyd Boston. The influx slaves to their owners. sails from New York to
Garrison publishes sparks conflict over Enforcement of this San Francisco with a
the first issue of religious and cultural law leads to the arrest damaged mast in just
radical newspaper differences. By the of Boston abolitionists 89 days and 21 hours,
middle of the century,
The Liberator from his in 1850 and 1854. shattering all previous
the Irish population
office on Beacon Hill. records.
reaches 35,000.
198
All Politics is Local
With social change, Brahmin dominance of Boston politics slipped
away. By the end of the 19th century, ethnic-based political machines
wrested control of local government from the old elite.
While the Democratic Party was initially associated with rural
and radical interests, it became the political instrument of the work-
ing poor. Irish immigrant neighborhoods provided ready-made voting
H is to ry A ll P o litics is L o cal
blocs, which empowered a new type of political boss. These flamboy-

ant populists took an activist approach to government and traded in
patronage and graft. No other Boston boss outshone James Michael
Curley. He was conniving, corrupt and beloved. The Rascal King had
a seemingly endless supply of holiday turkeys and city jobs for constitu-
ents, who between 1914 and 1949 elected him mayor four times and gov-
In the 1830s, ernor and congressman once.
rumors of After more than 125 years, Massachusetts once again took center
licentiousness stage in national politics with John F Kennedy’s election to the presi-
led a Protestant dency in 1960. The youthful JFK was the pride of Boston’s Irish Cath-
mob to torch olics for being the one who finally made it. Kennedy’s brief Camelot
the Catholic
inspired a new generation of Americans into public service and founded
Ursuline Convent
in present-day a political family dynasty that rivaled the Adams’.
Somerville. In In 1952, Thomas ‘Tip’ O’Neill inherited Kennedy’s recently vacated
another incident, congressional seat. O’Neill climbed to the top of the legislative ladder,
an Irish funeral becoming Speaker of the House in 1977, all the while sticking to the
procession met adage that ‘All Politics is Local.’ Meanwhile, in 1962, JFK’s brother Ted
a volunteer fire was elected to represent Massachusetts in the US Senate – a post he
company along
Boston’s Broad
held for 47 years.
Street, and a
melee ensued,
Reform & Racism
leaving a row of The legacy of race relations in Boston is marred by contradictions. Abo-
Irish flats burned litionists and segregationists, reformers and racists have all left their
to the ground. mark. Massachusetts was the first colony to recognize slavery as a legal
institution in 1641, and the first to abolish slavery in 1783.
In the 19th century, Boston emerged as a nucleus of the abolition
movement. Newspaper publisher William Lloyd Garrison, Unitarian
minister Theodore Parker and aristocratic lawyer Wendell Phillips
launched the American Anti-Slavery Society to agitate public senti-
ment. The city provided safe houses for runaway slaves who took the
Underground Railroad to freedom in Canada.
After the Civil War, many blacks rose to prominent positions in Bos-
ton society, including John S Rock, who became the first African Ameri-
can to practice in the US Supreme Court; John J Smith, who was elected
to the Massachusetts House of Representatives; Lewis Hayden, who
was elected to the Massachusetts General Court; and William DuBois,
who was the first African American to receive a PhD from Harvard.
1857–1900 1863 1870–76 1881

Boston is transformed Local boy Robert With a generous Philanthropist Henry
when the marshland Gould Shaw is placed donation from the Lee Higginson founds
along Charles River’s in command of the private collection the Boston Symphony
south shore is filled 54th Massachusetts of the Boston Orchestra with the aim
with landfill from the Volunteer Infantry, Athenaeum, the of ‘offering the best
city’s three hills. New one of the first all- Museum of Fine Arts is music at low prices,
neighborhoods, Back black regiments in the established in a Gothic such as may be found
Bay, Kenmore and Union Army. Revival building on in all European cities.’
Fenway, are created. Copley Sq.
199
BOSTON STRONG
On Patriots’ Day 2013, two bombs exploded near the finish line of the Boston Marathon,
killing three and injuring hundreds. Several days later, an MIT police officer was shot dead.
The entire city was locked down, as Boston became a battleground for the ‘War on Terror.’
The perpetrators were brothers Tamerlan and Dzhokhar Tsarnaev, natives of
H is to ry M aki n g B o st o n M o d er n
Chechnya and residents of Cambridge. Tamerlan was killed during a shootout with
police. His younger brother Dzhokhar was charged with using and conspiring to use
a weapon of mass destruction, resulting in death, as well as malicious destruction of
property, resulting in death. In April 2015 he was found guilty on all counts.
The tragedy was devastating, but Boston claimed countless heroes, especially the
many victims who inspired others with their courage and fortitude.
In the early 20th century, manufacturing jobs attracted Southern

blacks as part of the Great Migration. For newcomers, the north prom-
ised refuge from racism and poverty. More than 20,000 strong, Boston’s
expanding black community relocated to Roxbury and the South End,
where a thriving jazz and dance scene enlivened city nights. At one
point, Boston was home to both Martin Luther King, a Boston Uni- Black
versity divinity student, and Malcolm X, a pool-hall-hustling teenager. History
Boston did not have Jim Crow laws per se, but it did have its own Sites
informal patterns of racial segregation, with African Americans as
African Meeting
an underclass. As the city’s economy declined, racial antagonism in- House (Beacon
creased. In the 1970s, a judge determined that separate was not equal Hill)
in the public school system. His court order to desegregate the schools
Robert Gold Shaw
through forced busing violated the sanctity of the city’s ethnic neigh- Memorial (Boston
borhoods and exposed underlying racial tensions. The school year was Common)
marked by a series of violent incidents involving students and parents,
Black Heritage
most infamously in South Boston. The experiment in racial integration Trail (Beacon Hill)
was eventually abandoned, and the healing was slow.
Copp’s Hill Bury-
Making Boston Modern ing Ground (North
End)
In the mid-20th century, the city underwent a remarkable physical
transformation. Two of the city’s oldest neighborhoods were targeted:
Scollay Sq, which was once an area bustling with theaters and music
halls, but had since become a rundown red-light district; and the West
End, where poor immigrants eked out an existence amid a grubby laby-
rinth of row houses and alleyways. Urban renewal came in the form of
the grim bulldozer, which sent both neighborhoods into oblivion.
Next came the cement mixers that filled the modernist moldings of
a new Government Center for Boston’s sizable civil-servant sector. The
1918 1927 1960 1960s

Babe Ruth leads the Two Italian anarchists, After six years In a fit of urban
Boston Red Sox to Nicola Sacco and in the House of renewal, the city
their fifth World Series Bartolomeo Vanzetti, Representatives and razes Scollay Sq.
victory in 15 years. are executed on eight years in the Over 1000 buildings
He is subsequently trumped-up murder Senate, Boston native are destroyed and
traded to the New York charges, revealing John F Kennedy is 20,000 residents are
Yankees, which fans the persistence of elected president, displaced to make
will remember for the class and ethnic ushering in the era of way for the new
rest of the century. animosities. Camelot. Government Center.
200
centerpiece was an inverted pyramid, the monumental and cavernous
City Hall, which has since become prime evidence in the architectural
case against 1960s modernism.
The city’s skyline reached upward with luxury condominiums and
office buildings. The old customs tower on the waterfront, long the tall-
est building in town, was overtaken by the proud Prudential Tower and
Henry Cobb’s elegant John Hancock Tower. Boston was on the rebound.
H is to ry Past F o rwar d
Past Forward
Boston would not be Boston without a major redevelopment project. The
Central Artery Tunnel Project (aka the Big Dig) was an unmatched mar-
vel of civil engineering, urban planning and pork-barrel politics. The
project employed the most advanced techniques of urban engineering
and environmental science, in order to reroute the Central Artery under-
ground through the center of the city. The project fell far behind sched-
In 1976, the
ule and went way over budget. When it finally opened in 2004, the walls
city organized
a triumphant leaked and a falling ceiling panel killed a motorist. This bane of Bosto-
bicentennial cel- nian existence finally materialized as a boon for the city, as residents
ebration, capped and visitors alike are now enjoying quicker commutes, easier access to
with spectacular the airport and delightful dallying along the Rose Kennedy Greenway.
fireworks and a Since colonial times, Boston has been a champion of political equality,
spirited concert civil rights and social reform. This tradition has continued in the 21st
beside the
Charles River.
century, as the city and state have initiated cutting-edge reforms that
Half a million would eventually be adopted elsewhere in the country. In 2004, Massa-
people attended chusetts became the first state in the union to recognize same-sex mar-
the patriotic riages, and the first gay marriage took place in Cambridge. In 2006, the
party, including Commonwealth enacted a health care reform, resulting in near univer-
Queen Elizabeth sal coverage for Massachusetts residents – years before this legislation
II, who showed no passed at a federal level. In 2007, Massachusetts elected Deval Patrick,
hard feelings over
past misunder-
the state’s first African American governor (and the country’s second),
standings in her foreshadowing Barack Obama’s arrival in the White House.
salute from the In the new millennium, nothing has inspired Bostonians’ passion and
balcony of the pride more than their local sports teams. After more than eight decades
Old State House. of heartbreaking near-misses, the Boston Red Sox finally won baseball’s
World Series in 2004 and again in 2007. A 2013 World Series victory was
especially sweet, as it occurred at Fenway Park. Moreover, this cathartic
event was symbolic of the city’s resilience after the horrific tragedy of
the Boston Marathon bombings, which had occurred six months earlier.
The Red Sox shared the sports spotlight with local gridiron gladia-
tors, the New England Patriots, who won an amazing three Super Bowls
in four years from 2002 to 2005. They repeated one more time in 2015,
ensuring the team’s dynastic claim. In 2008, the Boston Celtics piled
on, winning a historic 17th basketball title. And in 2011, the Boston Bru-
ins brought home the Stanley Cup, completing the city’s ‘Grand Slam of
American Sports.’ Now that’s something to cheer about.
1974 1991–2006 2004 2014

The city of Boston The Central Artery/ Massachusetts Leaving a legacy of
institutes a program Tunnel Project keeps becomes the first revived neighborhoods
of mandatory busing all of Boston under state in the union to and bike-friendly
in an attempt to construction for 15 legalize same-sex streets, Boston’s
desegregate schools. years and $15 billion. marriage. The city of longest-serving mayor,
This sparks violence Behind schedule and Cambridge becomes Thomas Menino,
between black and over budget, the final the first municipality declines to run for
white students in product nonetheless to issue marriage re-election, after five
Charlestown and transforms the licenses to gay and terms and 20 years in
South Boston. surface of the city. lesbian couples. office.
201
Arts & Architecture

The Puritans were a spiritual people, uninterested in such small-minded pursuits as
art or music. It was not until the 19th century that Boston developed as an artistic
center, earning its nickname as the ‘Athens of America.’ Boston can thank the Puri-
tans, however, for founding Harvard College, and thus establishing the Boston area
as a center for learning. Attracted by the intellectual atmosphere, other institutions
followed suit; not only traditional universities, but also art schools, music colleges,
conservatories and more. To this day, the university culture enhances the breadth
and depth of cultural offerings.
Literature
By the 19th century, the city’s universities had become a magnet for
Boston’s 19th-
writers, poets and philosophers, as well as publishers and bookstores. century luminar-
The local literati were expounding on social issues such as slavery, ies congregated
women’s rights and religious reawakening. Boston, Cambridge and one Saturday a
Concord were fertile breeding grounds for ideas, nurturing the seeds month at the old
of America’s literary and philosophical flowering. Ralph Waldo Emer- Parker House.
Presided over by
son, Henry David Thoreau, Nathaniel Hawthorne, Louisa May Alcott Oliver Wendell
and Henry Wadsworth Longfellow were born of this era. This was the Holmes Sr, the
Golden Age of American literature, and Boston was its nucleus. Saturday Club
In the 20th century, Boston continued to foster authors, poets and was known for its
playwrights, but the Golden Age was over. The city was no longer the jovial atmosphere
and stimulat-
center of the progressive thought and social activism that had so in- ing discourse,
spired American literature. Moral crusaders and city officials promot- attracting such
ed stringent censorship of books, films and plays that they deemed renowned visi-
offensive or obscene. Many writers were ‘banned in Boston’ – a trend tors as Charles
that contributed to the city’s image as a provincial outpost instead of Dickens. The
prestigious
a cultural capital. literary magazine
Boston never regained its status as the hub of the literary solar sys- Atlantic Monthly
tem, but its rich legacy and ever-influential universities ensure that the was born out of
city continues to contribute to American literature. Many of Boston’s these meetings.
most prominent writers are transplants from other cities or countries,
drawn to its academic and creative institutions. John Updike, Ha Jin,
Jhumpa Lahiri and David Foster Wallace all came to the Boston area to
study or teach at local universities.
Painting & Visual Arts

Boston began supporting a world-class artistic movement in the late
19th century, when new construction and cultural institutions required
adornment. Boston’s most celebrated artist is John Singer Sargent,
whose murals decorate the staircases at the Museum of Fine Arts and
the Boston Public Library, both of which were built during this time.
Prolific sculptors Daniel Chester French and Augustus Saint-Gaudens
also left their marks in parks and public spaces all over town. During
this period, Winslow Homer became famous for his paintings of the
New England coast, while Childe Hassam used local cityscapes as sub-
jects for his impressionist works.
202
Critics claim that Boston lost pace with the artistic world in the
second half of the 20th century. But the visual arts are returning to
the forefront of contemporary cultural life in the new millennium. The
2006 opening of the ICA shone the spotlight onto Boston’s long-over-
shadowed contemporary art scene. Almost in response, the Museum of
Fine Arts, the Isabella Steward Gardner Museum and the Harvard Art
Museums upgraded their facilities for contemporary art with new and
A rts & A rc h itec t u re A r ch i t e ct u r e
expanded exhibit spaces and programming. Artists are transforming

the South End and the Seaport District into vibrant art districts that
PORTRAITS
feed off the growing and changing art institutions.
Architecture
After the American Revolution, Boston set to work repairing and
rebuilding the city, now the capital of the new Commonwealth of Mas-
sachusetts. Charles Bulfinch took responsibility for much of it, creat-
ing Faneuil Hall and the Massachusetts State House, as well as private
homes for Boston’s most distinguished citizens.
As the city expanded, so did the opportunities for creative art and ar-
chitecture, especially with the new construction in Back Bay. Frederick
Law Olmsted designed the Charles River Esplanade and the Emerald
Necklace, two magnificent green spaces that snake around the city.
Copley Sq represents the pinnacle of 19th-century architecture, with
the Romanesque Trinity Church, designed by Henry Hobson Richard-
son, and the Renaissance Revival Boston Public Library, designed by
Boston artist McKim, Mead and White.
John Singleton
Copley is con-
The 20th century witnessed plenty of noteworthy additions. IM Pei
sidered the first is responsible for the much-hated City Hall Plaza and the much-beloved
great American John F Kennedy Library. His partner James Cobb designed the stun-
portrait painter: ning John Hancock Tower. Reflecting Trinity Church in its facade, this
you can see a prominent modern tower takes its design cues from Boston’s past, a
huge collection of
his works at the
recurring trope in the city.
Museum of Fine The century closed with a remarkable project in urban planning –
Arts. not building, but un-building – as parts of the Central Artery were re-
routed underground and replaced by the Rose Kennedy Greenway, a
network of green parks and plazas. And where the Central Artery is
not hidden, it is on display, as it soars over the Charles River on the
new Zakim Bunker Hill Bridge, one of the widest cable-stayed bridges
in the world.
Several new buildings on the MIT campus – particularly Frank
Gehry’s Stata Center – have made industrial Kendall Sq a daring neigh-
borhood for architecture. Across town, the Harvard campus now boasts
a striking Renzo Piano design, housing the new Harvard Art Museum.
Meanwhile, the dramatic space for the Institute for Contemporary Art
has kicked off a spate of construction along the South Boston water-
front. All around Boston, there is a burgeoning interest in design as an
art form that affects us all: the Design Museum Boston explores these
questions with exhibits and presentations all over town.
Music
Contemporary Music
Boston has a tradition of grooving to great music. Classic rockers re-
member Aerosmith, the Cars and the J Geils Band. (Peter Wolf, lead
singer of the J Geils Band, is frequently sighted at celebrity events
around Boston.)
The pinnacle of the Boston music scene, however, is reserved for the
punk rockers of the 1990s. Bostonians still pine for the Mighty Mighty
203
Bosstones and the Pixies, the most influential of many B-town bands
from this era. Nowadays, no one makes more real, honest hardcore
punk than the wildly popular Dropkick Murphys, a bunch of blue-collar
Irish boys from Quincy.
Boston is also home to a thriving folk tradition, thanks to the vener-
able nonprofit Club Passim, while the Berklee College of Music sustains
a lively jazz and blues scene.
A rts & A rc h itec t u re T h e at e r

Classical Music
Possibly Boston’s most venerated cultural institution, the Boston Sym-
phony Orchestra was founded in 1881 and is rated among the world’s
best orchestras, thanks to the leadership of several talented conduc-
tors. It was under Serge Koussevitzky’s reign that the BSO gained its
world-renowned reputation, due to its radio broadcasts and its note-
worthy world premieres. Seiji Ozawa, the BSO’s longest-tenured maes-
tro (1973–2002), was beloved in Boston for his passionate style. James
Levine (2004-2011) was known for challenging Boston audiences with a
less traditional repertoire, though he suffered from ill health through-
out his tenure. In 2014, Boston proudly welcomed Andris Nelsons, a
dynamic young maestro from Latvia, who brings unbridled emotion
and energy to his conducting.
The Boston Pops was founded as an effort to offer audiences lighter
fare, such as popular classics, marches and show tunes. Arthur Fiedler,
who took the helm of the Pops in 1930, was responsible for realizing its
goal of attracting more diverse audiences, thanks to free concerts on
the Charles River Esplanade. The Pops’ current conductor is the young,
charismatic Keith Lockhart, who has reached out to audiences in new
ways – namely by bringing in pop and rock singers to perform with the
orchestra.
Theater
Boston’s strong Puritan roots have always exercised a stranglehold over The Carpenter
its desire to become a world-class city, and this clash is most apparent Center on the
Harvard campus
in the city’s stunted theater tradition. Only in recent years has the city is the only Le
developed as a destination for interesting alternative or cutting-edge Corbusier build-
theatrical productions. Nowadays, there are several excellent profes- ing in the country,
sional drama theater companies – namely the Huntington Theatre and across town,
Company and the American Repertory Theater – that perform outside MIT boasts
buildings by Eero
the Theater District. The Boston Center for the Arts in the South End Saarinen and
hosts a slew of smaller companies that stage engaging and unconven- Alvar Aalto –
tional shows. emblematic of
how these aca-
Dance demic institutions
have enabled
Boston’s preeminent dance company is the Boston Ballet, founded by design prowess.
E Virginia Williams in 1965. The current director is Mikko Nissinen,
veteran of the Finnish National Ballet and the Kirov Ballet in St Peters-
burg, Russia. The season usually includes timeless pieces by choreogra-
phers such as Rudolph Nureyev and George Balanchine, as well as more
daring work by choreographers-in-residence. And it always includes the
classic performance of The Nutcracker at Christmas. The Boston Ballet
performs at the Opera House.
204
Universities & Colleges

No single element has influenced the city so profoundly as its educational institu-
tions. Aside from the big ones mentioned here, dozens of smaller schools are located
in Fenway. The residential areas west of the center (Brighton and Allston) have been
dubbed the ‘student ghetto.’ Academic suburban sprawl means there are also excel-
lent schools in Medford, Waltham and Wellesley, north and west of Boston.
The Big Boys

Harvard University
A slew of superlatives accompany the name of this venerable institution
in Cambridge. It is America’s oldest university, founded in 1636. It still
has the largest endowment, numbering $36 billion in 2014, despite los-
ing almost a third of it playing the market in previous years. It is often
first in the list of national universities, according to US News & World
Report. Harvard is actually comprised of 10 independent schools dedi-
cated to the study of medicine, dentistry, law, business, divinity, design,
education, public health and public policy, in addition to the traditional
Faculty of Arts & Sciences.
Harvard Yard is the heart and soul of the university campus, with
buildings dating back to its founding. But the university continues to
Boston is a expand in all directions. Most recently, Harvard acquired extensive
funny place, and land across the river in Allston, with the intention of converting this
we mean funny
ha-ha. Many of working-class residential area into a satellite campus with commercial,
Boston’s famous residential and academic facilities.
jokesters are
graduates of Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Emerson College,
which offers At the opposite end of Mass Ave, the Massachusetts Institute of Tech-
scholarships and nology (MIT) offers an interesting contrast (and complement) to Har-
workshops spe- vard. Excelling in sciences and engineering – pretty serious stuff, by
cifically devoted most standards – MIT nonetheless does not take itself too seriously.
to comedy.
The campus is dotted with whimsical sculptures and offbeat art, not
to mention some of Boston’s most daring and dumbfounding contem-
porary architecture. MIT students are notorious practical jokers, and
their pranks usually leave the bemused public wondering ‘How did they
do that?’
Despite the atmosphere of fun and funniness, these smarty-pants are
hard at work. The school has claimed some 81 Nobel Laureates and 56
recipients of the National Medal of Science since its founding in 1861.
Some recent accomplishments include artificially duplicating the pro-
cess of photosynthesis to store solar energy, developing computer pro-
grams to decipher ancient languages, and creating an acrobatic robotic
bird.
The MIT campus stretches out for about a mile along the Charles
River. The university has a few museums, but it’s really the art, archi-
tecture and atmosphere of innovation that make the place unique.
205
The Best of Boston
Boston University
Boston University (BU) is a massive urban campus sprawling west of
Kenmore Sq. BU enrolls about 30,000 undergraduate and graduate
students in all fields of study. The special collections of BU’s Mugar
Memorial Library include an outstanding 20th-century archive. Pub-
U niv e rsiti e s & C o lleg e s T h e B e s t o f B o s t o n

lic exhibits showcase the holdings, which include the papers of Isaac
Asimov, Bette Davis, Martin Luther King Jr and more. The BU Terriers
excel at ice hockey, with frequent appearances in the national college MIT computer
championships, the Frozen Four, as well as victories in the local Bean- scientist Joseph
pot tournament. Carl Robnett
Licklider first
conceived of a
Boston College ‘galactic network’
Not to be confused with BU, Boston College (BC) could not be more in the early
different. BC is situated between Brighton in Boston and Chestnut Hill 1960s, which
in the swanky suburb of Newton; the attractive campus is recogniz- would later spawn
the internet.
able by its neo-Gothic towers. It is home to the nation’s largest Jesuit
community. Its Catholic influence makes it more socially conservative
and more social-service oriented than other universities. Visitors to the
campus will find a good art museum and excellent Irish and Catholic
ephemera collections in the library. Aside from the vibrant undergradu-
ate population, it has a strong education program and an excellent law
school. Its basketball and football teams – the BC Eagles – are usually
high in national rankings.
A WALK ACROSS THE HARVARD BRIDGE

The Harvard Bridge – from Back Bay in Boston to MIT in Cambridge – is the longest
bridge across the Charles River. It is not too long to walk, but it is long enough to do
some wondering while you walk. You might wonder, for example, why the bridge that
leads into the heart of MIT is named the Harvard Bridge.
According to legend, the state offered to name the bridge after Cambridge’s sec-
ond university. But the brainiac engineers at MIT analyzed the plans for construction
and found the bridge was structurally unsound. Not wanting the MIT moniker as-
sociated with a faulty feat of engineering, it was suggested that the bridge better be
named for the neighboring university up the river. That the bridge was subsequently
rebuilt validated the superior brainpower of MIT.
That is only a legend, however (one invented by an MIT student, no doubt). The fact
is that the Harvard Bridge was first constructed in 1891, and MIT moved to its current
location only in 1916. The bridge was rebuilt in the 1980s to modernize and expand it,
but the original name has stuck, at least officially. Most Bostonians actually refer to
the bridge as the ‘Mass Ave bridge’ because, frankly, it makes more sense.
By now, walking across the bridge, you will perhaps have noticed the graffiti read-
ing: ‘50 smoots… 69 smoots… 100 smoots… Halfway to Hell…’ and you are probably
wondering, ‘What is a smoot?’
A smoot is an obscure unit of measurement that was used to measure the distance
of the Harvard Bridge, first in 1958 and every year since. One smoot is approximately
5ft 7in, the height of Oliver R Smoot, who was a pledge of the MIT fraternity Lambda
Chi Alpha in ʼ58. He was the shortest pledge that year. And yes, his physical person
was actually used for all the measurements.
And now that you have reached the other side of the river, surely you are wondering
exactly how long the bridge is. We can’t say about the Harvard students, but certainly
every MIT student knows that the Harvard Bridge is 364.4 smoots plus one ear.
206
Northeastern University
Located in the midst of student central, aka Fenway, Northeastern is
a private regional university with programs emphasizing health, se-
curity and sustainability. Northeastern University (NU) boasts one of
the country’s largest work-study cooperative programs, whereby most
students complete two or three semesters of full-time employment in
addition to their eight semesters of studies. This integration of class-
U niv e rsiti e s & C o lleg e s A rt & M u s ic Sc h o o l s
room learning with real-world experience is the university’s strongest

feature.
Art & Music Schools

Massachusetts College of Art & Design
The country’s first and only four-year independent public art college
was founded along with MIT and the Museum of Fine Arts in the late
BEANPOT
19th century, when local leaders wanted to influence the state’s devel-
opment by promoting fine arts and technology. It seems safe to say that
their long-term goal was successfully met. Nowadays, Massachusetts
College of Art and Design (MassArt) offers a highly ranked art pro-
gram, with specializations in industrial design, fashion design, illustra-
tion and animation, as well as the more traditional fine arts.
Berklee College of Music

Housed in and around Back Bay in Boston, Berklee is an internationally
renowned school for contemporary music, especially jazz. The school
was founded in 1945 by Lawrence Berk (the Lee came from his son’s
first name). Created as an alternative to the classical agenda and stuffy
Held annually attitude of traditional music schools, Berk taught courses in composi-
since 1952, one of tion and arrangement for popular music. Not big on musical theory,
Boston’s biggest Berk emphasized learning by playing. His system was a big success and
annual sporting
the school flourished. Berklee’s Grammy-laden alumni include jazz mu-
events is the
Beanpot, a local sicians Gary Burton, Al Di Meola, Keith Jarrett and Diana Krall; pop/
hockey tourna- rock artists Quincy Jones, Donald Fagen and John Mayer; and film-
ment between maker Howard Shore.
Harvard, BU, BC
and Northeast-
ern. It takes place Emerson College
on the first two Founded in 1880, Emerson is a liberal arts college that specializes in
Mondays (men) communications and the performing arts. Located in the Boston theat-
and Tuesdays er district, the college operates the Cutler Majestic Theatre and the
(women) in
February. Paramount Center, and its students run Boston’s coolest radio station,
WERS. Emerson celebs include Norman Lear, Jay Leno, Denis Leary
and Henry Winkler, aka ‘the Fonz.’
207
Survival
Guide
TRANSPORTATION. . . 208 DIRECTORY A–Z. . . . . 213
ARRIVING IN BOSTON . . 208 Customs
Regulations. . . . . . . . . . . . . 213
Logan International
Airport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .....208 Discount Cards. . . . . . . . . . 213
Manchester-Boston Emergency . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213
Regional Airport. . . . . . . . .209 Electricity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214
TF Green Airport. . . . . . . . . 209 Gay & Lesbian
South Station . . . . . . . . . . . 209 Travelers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214
From New York to Internet Access. . . . . . . . . . 214
Boston by Bus . . . . . . . . . . 209
Money. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214
GETTING AROUND Newspapers &
BOSTON. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209 Magazines. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215
Bicycle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209
Opening Hours. . . . . . . . . . 215
Boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210
Public Holidays. . . . . . . . . . 215
Bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210
Safe Travel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215
Subway (The T) . . . . . . . . . 210
Taxes & Refunds. . . . . . . . . 215
Taxi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
Telephone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215
Train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
Time. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216
TOURS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
Tourist
Bicycle Tours. . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 Information. . . . . . . . . . . . . 216
Boat Tours. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 Travelers with
Trolley Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . 212 Disabilities. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216
Walking Tours . . . . . . . . . . . 212 Visas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216
208
Transportation
ARRIVING IN airport. From any terminal,
BOSTON Logan Inter- take a free, well-marked
Most travelers arrive in national Airport shuttle bus (22 or 33) to the
blue-line T station called Air-
Boston by plane, with many On Massachusetts Route port and you’ll be downtown
national and international 1A in East Boston, Logan within 30 minutes.
flights in and out of Logan International Airport
International Airport. Two (%800-235-6426; www.
smaller regional airports – massport.com/logan) has five
Boat
Manchester Airport in New separate terminals that are Several water shuttles oper-
Hampshire and TF Green Air- connected by the frequent ate between Logan and the
port near Providence, Rhode shuttle bus 11. Downtown Boston waterfront. In both
Island – offer alternatives Boston is just a few miles cases, fares to the North
that are also accessible to from the airport and is ac- End and Charlestown are
Boston and are sometimes cessible by bus, subway, twice as much as fares to
less expensive. water shuttle and taxi. downtown. Take the free
Most trains operated by water transportation shuttle
Amtrak (%800-872-7245; bus no 66 from the airport
Silver Line Bus terminal to the ferry dock.
www.amtrak.com; South Sta-
tion) go in and out of South The silver line is the MBTA’s
Station. Boston is the north- ‘bus rapid transit service.’ It Boston Harbor Cruises
ern terminus of the North- travels between Logan Inter- Water Taxi (Map p236;
east Corridor, which sends national Airport and South %617-227-4320; www.bos-
frequent trains to New York Station, with stops in the
Seaport District. Silver line
tonharborcruises.com; Long
(4½ hours), Philadelphia (six Wharf; h7am-10pm Mon-Sat,
hours) and Washington DC buses pick up at the airport
terminals and connect di- to 8pm Sun) Service to Long
(eight hours). The Lakeshore
rectly to the subway station, Wharf and other waterfront
Express goes daily to Buffalo
(12 hours) and Chicago (23 so you don’t have to buy destinations.
hours), while the Downeaster another ticket for the T.
goes from North Station to This is the most conveni- Rowes Wharf Water Taxi
Portland, Maine (2½ hours). ent way to get into the city (Map p236;%617-406-8584;
Buses are most useful if you are staying in the www.roweswharfwatertaxi.
for regional destinations, Seaport District or anywhere com; Rowes Wharf; one-way/
although Greyhound (%617- along the red line (Down-
town, Beacon Hill, Cam-
round-trip $12/20; h7am-
526-1800, 800-231-2222; www. 10pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun
greyhound.com) operates bridge). Prices and hours are
the same as the T. Apr-Nov, 7am-7pm daily Dec-
services around the country.
Mar) Serves Rowes Wharf near
In recent years, there has
been a spate of new com- Subway the Boston Harbor Hotel, the
panies offering cheap and The MBTA subway (%617- Moakley Federal Courthouse
efficient service to New York 222-3200; www.mbta.com; per on the Fort Point Channel and
City (four to five hours). ride $2.10-2.65; h5:30am- the World Trade Center in the
Flights, tours and rail tick- 12:30am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri Seaport District. Taxis also go
ets can be booked online at & Sat), known as the T, is to the North End and Charles-
www.lonelyplanet.com. another fast and cheap way town for a higher fare.
to reach the city from the
209
Car The MBTA commuter rail and how far in advance they
If you’re driving from the air- (%800-392-6100, 617-222- are purchased.
port into Boston or to points 3200; www.mbta.com) travels Go Bus (www.gobuses.com;
north of the city, the Sumner between TF Green Airport and Alewife Brook Pkwy; one-way
Tunnel ($3.50 toll) will lead South Station ($11, 90 minutes, $18-34; W; YAlewife) Departs
you to Storrow Dr or over the 10 daily), with stops at Ruggles from Alewife station in
Zakim Bridge to I-93 North. and Back Bay stations along Cambridge.
Tr a nsp o rtati o n G etting A r o u nd B o st o n

To points south of Boston,
use the Ted Williams Tun-
the way.
nel ($3.50) to I-93 South.
To or from points west, the
GETTING
Mass Pike connects directly AROUND
with the Ted Williams Tun- South Station BOSTON
nel. When you’re heading to Located in downtown Bos- Boston is geographically
the airport from downtown ton, South Station is a stop small and logistically man-
Boston, take the Callahan on the red line of the T. It is ageable. The sights and
Tunnel. All three tunnels are also the junction where the activities of principal interest
off I-93 and free when head- silver line buses connect to to travelers are contained
ing inbound. the subway system. within an area that’s only
about 1 mile wide by 3 miles
Taxi long.
Taxi fares from Logan This makes Boston a won-
are approximately $25 to From New York to derful walking or cycling city.
Downtown Boston, $30 to Boston by Bus Otherwise, most of the main
Kenmore Sq and $35 to attractions are accessible by
The infamous ‘Chinatown
Harvard Sq. subway. Some outlying sites
Buses’ originated in the late
require a bus ride. And a few
1990s as a cheap way for
– namely the Boston Harbor
Chinese workers to travel to
Islands – require a boat ride
Manchester- and from jobs. They offered
or two.
Boston Regional super-cheap tickets between
Boston and New York,
Incidentally, Boston is a
Airport traveling from Chinatown
waterside city, and riding in
boats is part of the fun. Wa-
Manchester-Boston to Chinatown. Young, savvy
ter shuttles are a convenient
Regional Airport (%603- travelers caught wind of the
transportation option for a
624-6556; www.flymanchester. bargain transportation, and
few harborside destinations,
the phenomenon began to
com) A quiet alternative to including the airport.
spread. It was crowded and
Logan, Manchester Airport is confusing and probably not
just 55 miles north of Boston in that safe, but it sure was
New Hampshire. cheap. Bicycle
Flight Line Inc (%800-245- In recent years, more
In recent years, Boston has
2525; www.flightlineinc.com; and more companies are
made vast improvements in
h9am-11pm) This shuttle runs
running buses on this route.
its infrastructure for cyclists,
With competition has come
every 30 to 60 minutes be- improved service and better
including painting miles of
tween Manchester Airport and bicycle lanes, upgrading bike
safety records. They don’t
Boston Logan. There is also a facilities on and around
always start and end in
shared van service that drops public transportation and
Chinatown. Many offer free
implementing an excellent
off and picks up directly at your wireless service on board.
bike-share program. Boston
hotel. Reservations required. But the prices remain bliss-
drivers are used to sharing
fully low.
the roads with their two-
Lucky Star Bus (www. wheeled friends (and they
TF Green Airport luckystarbus.com; South Sta- are used to arriving after
tion; one-way $20; W) Twelve their two-wheeled friends,
TF Green Airport (www.
daily departures. Tickets must who are less impeded by
pvdairport.com) Just outside traffic snarls). Cyclists
be purchased at least one hour
the city of Providence, RI, TF should always obey traffic
before departure time.
Green Airport is serviced by rules and ride defensively.
major carriers. Southwest Air- Megabus (www.megabus.
com; South Station; one-way
lines, in particular, offers very The Hubway
competitively priced tickets. $10-30; W) Rates vary depend-
ing on the time of day of travel Hubway (www.thehubway.
The airport is one hour south com; 24/72hr membership
of Boston.
210
$6/12, 30/60/90min your doorstep in a BioBus schedules are posted on its
free/$2/4; h24hr) Boston’s powered by vegetable oil. website and at some bus stops
bike-share program is the Cambridge Bicycle (www. along the routes. The standard
Hubway. There are 140 Hubway cambridgebicycle.com; 259 bus fare is $2.10, or $1.60 with
stations around Boston, Cam- Massachusetts Ave; rental per a Charlie Card. If you’re trans-
bridge, Brookline and Somer- day $30; h10am-7pm Mon- ferring from the T on a Charlie
ville, stocked with 1300 bikes Sat, noon-6pm Sun; YCentral) Card the bus fare is free.
Tr a nsp o rtati o n G etting A r o u nd B o st o n
that are available for short-term Convenient for cycling along The silver line, a so-called
loan. Purchase a temporary the Charles River. Rentals are ‘rapid’ bus, starts at Down-
membership at any bicycle three-speed commuter bikes – town Crossing and runs along
kiosk, then pay by the half-hour nothing fancy, but solid for city Washington St in the South
for the use of the bikes (free riding. End to Roxbury’s Dudley Sq.
under 30 minutes). Return the Back Bay Bicycles (www. Another route goes from
bike to any station in the vicinity papa-wheelies.com; 362 South Station to the Seaport
of your destination. Commonwealth Ave; city/road District, then under the harbor
The Hubway pricing is bike per day $35/65; h11am- to Logan International Airport.
designed so a bike ride can 6pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun; This waterfront route costs
substitute for a cab ride (eg to YHynes) Convenient for riding $2.65 ($2.10 with a Charlie
make a one-way trip or run an along the Charles River. City Card), instead of the normal
errand), not for leisurely riding bike rentals are Cannondale bus fare.
or long trips, which would be Daytrippers; lock and helmet The silver line is differ-
expensive. Check the website also included. ent from the regular MBTA
for a map of Hubway stations. buses because it drives in a
Bicycle Exchange (www.
Helmets are not legally re- designated lane (supposedly
cambridgebicycleexchange.
quired – except for children reducing travel time). More
com; 2067 Massachusetts Ave;
aged under 17 – but they are importantly, the silver line
rental 1 day $25, additional
recommended and available starts/terminates inside the
days $10; h9am-6pm Tue-Sat,
for purchase at reduced rates South Station or Downtown
noon-5pm Sun; YPorter) This
at the vendors listed on the Crossing subway terminal, so
bike shop is located just north
Hubway website. you can transfer to/from the T
of Porter Sq, convenient to the
without purchasing an addi-
Minuteman Bikeway.
Bikes on the MBTA tional ticket.
You can bring bikes on the T,
the bus and the commuter
rail for no additional fare.
Boat Subway (The T)
Bikes are not allowed on While boats will likely not be
green-line trains or silver-line your primary means of trans- MBTA Subway (%617-222-
buses, nor are they allowed portation, they are useful for 3200; www.mbta.com; rides
on any trains during rush a few destinations, primarily $2.10-2.65; h5:30am-12:30am
hour (7am to 10am and 4pm the Boston Harbor Islands Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat) The
to 7pm, Monday to Friday). and Charlestown. Ferries MBTA operates the USA’s old-
Bikes are not permitted in- to Provincetown and Salem est subway, built in 1897 and
side buses, but most MBTA provide a pleasant trans-
known locally as the ‘T.’ There
buses have bicycle racks on portation alternative for day
trips out of the city. There is are four lines – red, blue, green
the outside.
also a water-shuttle service and orange – that radiate
to the airport and water taxis from the principal downtown
Bicycle Rental that make stops at destina- stations: Downtown Crossing,
Urban AdvenTours (www. tions along the waterfront. Government Center, Park St
urbanadventours.com; 103 At- and State. When traveling away
lantic Ave; rental per day $35; from any of these stations, you
h9am-6pm Mon-Sat; YA- Bus are heading ‘outbound.’
quarium) Bikes available for Although the MBTA might
MBTA (%617-222-5215; like you to believe otherwise,
rental include road bikes and
www.mbta.com; rides $2.10- the silver line is a bus line with
mountain bikes, in addition to
2.65) The MBTA operates bus a dedicated traffic lane – not
the standard hybrids. For an
routes within the city. These a subway line. Tourist passes
extra fee these eco-friendly
can be difficult to figure out with unlimited travel (on
guys will bring your bike to
for the short-term visitor, but subway, bus or water shuttle)
21 1
are available for periods of one trouble hailing a cab, head
to any nearby hotel, where
TOURS
day ($12) or one week ($19).
Kids under 11 ride for free. they congregate. Recom-
Passes may be purchased at mended taxi companies
the Boston Welcome Center
include: Bicycle Tours
on Tremont St and at the Chill Out First Class Urban AdvenTours (Map
following T stations: Park St, Cab (%617-212-3763; www. p232;%617-379-3590; www.
Tr a nsp o rtati o n T o u rs
Government Center, Back Bay, chilloutfirstclasstransportation- urbanadventours.com; 103
Alewife, Copley, Quincy Adams, services.com; airport $30-45) Atlantic Ave; tours $55; c;
Harvard, North Station, South Offers flat-fee airport transfers YAquarium) Founded by avid
Station, Hynes and Airport. For from Cambridge. cyclists who believe the best
longer stays, you can buy a Cabbie’s Cab (%617-547- views of Boston are from a
monthly pass allowing unlim- 2222; www.cabbiescab.com; bicycle. The City View Ride
ited use of the subway and airport $35) Offers flat-rate provides a great overview of
local bus ($75). Otherwise, buy airport transfers from all parts how to get around by bike, but
a paper fare card ($2.65 per of Boston and Cambridge. there are other specialty tours
ride) or a Charlie Card ($2.10 such as Bikes at Night and the
per ride) at all stations. Emerald Necklace tour.
Of an evening, the last red-line
trains pass through Park St Train
around closing time (depend- MBTA Commuter Rail Boat Tours
ing on the direction), but all T (%800-392-6100, 617-222-
Boston Green Cruises
stations and lines are differ- 3200; www.mbta.com) The
(Map p236; www.bostongreen-
ent: check the posting at the MBTA commuter rail services
cruises.com; 60 Rowes Wharf;
station. destinations in the metro-
adult/child from $28/24; c;
politan Boston area. Trains
YAquarium or South Sta-
heading west and north of the
tion) See the sights and hear
city, including to Concord and
Taxi Salem, leave from bustling
the sounds of the city from
Boston’s first super quiet,
Cabs are plentiful but North Station on Causeway St.
zero-emissions electric boat.
expensive. Rates are deter- Trains heading south, includ-
mined by the meter, which Spend an hour floating in the
ing to Plymouth and TF Green
calculates miles. Expect to Boston Harbor or cruising on
Airport in Providence, leave
pay about $12 to $18 be- the River Charles (or upgrade
from South Station.
tween most tourist points to a 90-minute combo trip for
within the city limits, without $39/35 per adult/child).
much traffic. If you have any Boston Duck Tours (Map
p244;%617-267-3825; www.
bostonducktours.com; adult/
CHARLIE ON THE MBTA child $36/25; c; YAquarium,
Science Park or Prudential)
The Charlie in question is a fictional character from
These ridiculously popular
the Kingston Trio hit Charlie on the MTA. Charlie’s sad
tours use WWII amphibious
story was that he could not get off the Boston T (then
vehicles that cruise the down-
known as the Metropolitan Transit Authority) because
town streets before splashing
he did not have the exit fare.
into the Charles River. The
Now Charlie has been immortalized – yet again – by
80-minute tours depart from
the MBTA’s fare system: the Charlie Card. The plastic
the Museum of Science, the
cards are available from the attendant at any T sta-
Prudential Center or the New
tion. Once you have a card, you can add money at the
England Aquarium. Advance
automated fare machines; at the turnstile you will be
reservations recommended.
charged $2.10 per ride.
The system is designed to favor commuters and Boston Harbor Cruises
cardholders. If you do not request a Charlie Card, you (Map p236; www.boston-
can purchase a paper fare card from the machine, but harborcruises.com; 1 Long
the turnstile will charge you $2.65 per ride. Similarly, Wharf; adult/child $25/21; c;
YAquarium) Boston Harbor
Charlie Card–holders pay $1.60 to ride the bus, while
cash-holders pay $2.10. Cruises offers a slew of options
for those who want to get out
212
on the water, such as a Historic this ticket will get you into the walking tour combined with a
Sightseeing Tour around the Boston Tea Party Museum free photography lesson. Different
Inner Harbor. The Charles River of charge. routes cover Boston’s most
& Locks Tour is a 90-minute Ghosts & Gravestones photogenic neighborhoods.
loop around the whole of the (Map p236; www.ghost- Freedom Trail Foun-
Shawmut Peninsula. Other spe- sandgravestones.com; Long dation (Map p234; www.
cial events include a Mother’s Wharf; adult/child $36/23; thefreedomtrail.org; adult/
Tr a nsp o rtati o n T o u rs
Day brunch cruise and summer c; YAquarium) A hair-raising child $14/8; c; YPark) This
fireworks cruises (prices vary). tour telling tales of Boston’s educational nonprofit group
darker side, hosted by a cursed leads excellent tours of the
gravedigger. Freedom Trail, broken up into
Trolley Tours bite-size portions (eg Boston
Overheard on a Duck Tour: Common to Faneuil Hall, North
‘Trolleys can go in the water, Walking Tours End). Frequent departures
too…once.’ Nonetheless, from Faneuil Hall and Boston
The granddaddy of walk-
trolley tours offer great flex- Common make this a conveni-
ing tours in Boston is the
ibility because you can hop Freedom Trail, a 2½-mile ent option. Tour guides are in
off at sites along the route trail that traverses the city period costume, for whatever
and hop on the next trolley from the Boston Common that’s worth.
that comes along. All trolleys to Charlestown. Most of
offer discounts for online On Location Tours (www.
the companies listed here screentours.com; tours $23)
purchase. lead tours of the Freedom
Upper Deck Trolley Tours It’s not Hollywood, but Boston
Trail, as does the National
(Map p236; www.bostonsuper- Park Service (www.nps.gov/ has hosted its share of famous
tours.com; basic adult/child bost). Tours that focus on a movie scenes. More than 30
$29/14, premium $39/20; c; particular neighborhood are films were shot along Boston’s
YAquarium) Super-tall trolleys covered in their respective Movie Mile, which you will see
neighborhood sections. on this 90-minute walking tour.
give passengers a view over the
traffic. This is the only trolley Boston by Foot (www. For even more movie mad-
tour that goes to Cambridge. bostonbyfoot.com; adult/child ness, the company offers a
The premium ticket – which is $15/10; c) This fantastic non- three-hour bus tour that visits
good for three days – includes profit offers 90-minute walking 40-plus sites.
a ride on the Super Duck tours, with neighborhood- Boston Chocolate Tours
Splash, admission to a few specific walks and specialty (www.bostonchocolatetours.
museums, plus the Hahvahd theme tours like Literary com; tours $48) If you believe
Tour. Landmarks, the Dark Side of that ‘the best things in life are
Boston and Boston for Little chocolate,’ then pick a neigh-
Old Town Trolley Tours
Feet – a kid-friendly version of borhood and let the experts
(Map p236; www.historictours.
the Freedom Trail. show you where you can sate
com; Long Wharf; adult/child
$41/20; c; YAquarium) Save Photo Walks (%617-851- your craving.
10% when you book online. 2273; www.photowalks.com;
From November to March, adult/youth $40/20; c) A
21 3
Directory A–Z
Boston City Pass (www.
Customs Discount Cards citypass.com; adult/child
Regulations Thanks to its student-heavy $54/39) Includes admission to
population, Boston is one of five popular spots: Museum of
For up-to-date information,
the few US cities that usually Fine Arts, Museum of Science,
see www.cbp.gov.
offers students discounted New England Aquarium and
¨¨Personal Exemptions Each
admission, so bring your stu- Skywalk Observatory, and
traveler is permitted to bring up either the Old State House or
dent ID and always inquire.
to $800 worth of merchandise the Harvard Museum of Natural
Other programs that offer
into the US without incurring History. You have nine days to
discounted a dmission to area
any duty, assuming they have use your tickets. It makes for a
museums and attractions:
been out of the country for at busy week, but if you use them
Go Select Boston Pass
least 48 hours. all, you’ll save $47.
(www.smartdestinations.com)
¨Älcohol & Tobacco Each
Pick a package or design your Go Boston Card (www.
visitor is allowed to bring 1L of own, choosing two or more smartdestinations.com; pass
liquor and 200 cigarettes duty- sites from the 46 included adult/child 1-day $48/32,
free into the US, but you must options. You have 30 days to 3-day $88/72, 7-day $148/112)
be at least 21 and 18 years of use your pass, which usually This card allows unlimited
age, respectively. guarantees a savings of 20%. admission to 49 Boston-area
attractions, including most
museums, tours and historic
sites. Also offers discounts at
PRACTICALITIES local restaurants and shops.
¨¨ Currency The US dollar ($) is divided into 100 The card is good for any num-
cents. Coins come in denominations of 1¢ (penny), ber of days (from one to seven,
5¢ (nickel), 10¢ (dime), 25¢ (quarter) and the rare depending on what you pay),
so squeeze in as much as you
50¢ piece (half-dollar). Banknotes come in $1, $2,
can to get your money’s worth.
$5, $10, $20, $50 and $100 denominations.
In reality, you would need a
¨¨ Radio Boston is blessed with two public radio
pretty ambitious itinerary to
stations – WGBH (89.7FM) and WBUR (90.9FM) – make this worthwhile.
broadcasting news, classical music and radio shows.
For sports talk radio all the time, tune into 850AM.
Out of Emerson College, WERS plays ‘music for
independent minds’ at 88.9FM.
Emergency
¨¨ Smoking No smoking in Boston hotels, restau- Ambulance, Fire &
rants or bars.
Police (%911)
¨¨ Weights & Measures US customary units are
based on imperial units, measuring distance by mile,
weight by pound and volume by pint, quart or gallon.
214
for LGBTQ readers. The print
Electricity edition is distributed throughout Money
New England, but the website is
ATMs
also an excellent source of news
Automatic teller machines
and information.
(ATMs) are great for quick
EDGE Boston (www. cash and can negate the need
edgeboston.com) The Boston for traveler’s checks entirely,
D i rec to ry A–Z E lect r icity
branch of the nationwide but watch out for ATM sur-

network of publications offer- charges. Most banks in Bos-
ing news and entertainment ton charge at least $2.50 per
withdrawal. Look for ATMs
for LGBT readers. Includes a
outside banks and in large
nightlife section with culture grocery stores, shopping
and club reviews. centers and gas stations.
Changing Money
Internet Access If you are carrying foreign
Most hotels and hostels offer currency, it can be ex-
internet access in one way or changed for US dollars at
another. Usually that means Logan International Airport.
wireless access, though Bank outlets around the city
some hotels also have an are not so reliable about
120V/60Hz on-site business center or offering currency exchange,
internet corner that provides but this service is provided
computers. Aside from at any full-service branch of
hotels, wi-fi is common in the Bank of America (www.
cafes, on buses and even in bankofamerica.com).
public spaces like shopping
malls and airports. Credit Cards
Gay & Lesbian Boston Public Library Major credit cards are ac-
cepted at hotels, restaurants,
Travelers (www.bpl.org; 700 Boylston St;
gas stations, shops and car-
h9am-9pm Mon-Thu, to 5pm
Out and active gay communi- rental agencies. In fact, you’ll
Fri & Sat year-round, 1-5pm
ties are visible all around Bos- find it hard to perform certain
ton, especially in the South Sun Oct-May; W; YCopley) transactions, such as renting
End and Jamaica Plain. Stop Internet access free for 15- cars or purchasing concert
by Calamus Bookstore minute intervals. Or get a tickets, without one. Some
(Map p242; www.calamusbooks. visitor courtesy card at the small B&Bs and family-owned
com; 92 South St; h9am-7pm circulation desk and sign up for shops and restaurants may
Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; one hour of free terminal time. not accept credit cards. Visa
YSouth Station), which is an and MasterCard are the most
Arrive first thing in the morning
excellent source of informa- widely accepted.
to avoid long waits.
tion about community events
and organizations. Cambridge Public Library
Tipping
There is no shortage of en- (www.cambridgema.gov/cpl;
tertainment options catering Many members of the ser-
449 Broadway; h9am-9pm
to LGBT travelers. From drag vice industry depend on tips
Mon-Thu, to 5pm Fri & Sat; to earn a living. Servers and
shows to dyke nights, this W; YHarvard) The sparkling
sexually diverse community bartenders, in particular,
new glass library has dozens of get paid less than minimum
has something for everybody.
The biggest event of the zippy computers that are free wage in the US, so tips con-
year for the Boston gay and to the public. It’s busy, so you stitute their wages. Use the
lesbian community is June’s may have to wait your turn. following guidelines for tip-
Boston Pride (%617-262- ping your service providers:
Wired Puppy (www.wired-
9405; www.bostonpride.org), puppy.com; 250 Newbury
a week of parades, parties, ¨¨Baggage carriers $1 to $2
St; h6:30am-7:30pm; W;
festivals and flag-raisings. per bag.
YHynes) Free wireless access
Other excellent sources of ¨¨Bar & restaurant staff
information for the gay and and free computer use in case
you don’t have your own. This 20% for good service, 15% for
lesbian community:
is also a comfortable, cozy adequate service; any less than
Bay Windows (www.baywin- 15% indicates dissatisfaction
dows.com) A weekly newspaper place to just come and drink
coffee. with the service.
21 5
¨¨Housekeeping $3 to $5 for ¨¨Bars & Clubs Open to mid- ¨Ïn Jamaica Plain, stay on the
one or two nights, more for night daily, and often stay open west side of Hyde Park Ave,
longer stays. to 1am or 2am on Friday and Washington St and Columbus
¨¨Taxi drivers 10% to 15% of Saturday nights. Ave at night.
the fare. ¨¨Businesses 9am to 5pm ¨Ävoid parks such as Franklin
Monday to Friday. Park and the Back Bay Fens
Traveler’s Checks ¨¨Restaurants 11am or after dark. The same goes for
D i rec to ry A–Z N ewspape r s & M aga z ines

Traveler’s checks provide 11:30am to 9pm or 10pm; res- streets and subway stations that
protection from theft and taurants serving breakfast open are otherwise empty of people.
loss. Most companies now
from 7am; some places close
offer a convenient Traveler’s
Check Card, a prepaid card from 2:30pm to 5:30pm.
¨¨Shops From 10am or 11am
that is not linked to a bank
account. For refunds on lost until 7pm Monday to Saturday;
Taxes & Refunds
or stolen traveler’s checks sometimes noon to 5pm Sun- The state of Massachusetts
or cards, call American charges a 6.5% sales tax
day. Major shopping areas and
Express (%800-221-7282; on all items that are not
malls keep extended hours. considered necessities.
www.americanexpress.com)
or Thomas Cook (%01733- Foodies and fashionistas will
224-800; www.thomascook. be happy to hear that food
com). Keeping a record of Public Holidays (purchased from a store, not
check numbers and those a restaurant) and clothing
New Year’s Day January 1 (up to $175) are indeed con-
you have used is vital for
replacing lost checks, so Martin Luther King Jr’s Birth- sidered necessities!
keep your records separate day Third Monday in January In addition to the 6.5%
from the checks themselves. Washington’s Birthday Third sales tax, hotel rooms are
Traveler’s checks are as subject to a 14.45% tax
Monday in February
good as cash in the US, but in Boston and Cambridge
only if they are in US dollars. Evacuation Day March 17 (which includes a city and
Patriot’s Day Third Monday state hotel tax, as well as
in April a convention center tax).
B&Bs with three rooms
Newspapers & Memorial Day Last Monday
or fewer are exempt from
Magazines in May this tax.
Boston Globe (www.boston. Bunker Hill Day June 17
com) One of two major daily Independence Day July 4
newspapers, the Globe pub- Labor Day First Monday in
lishes an extensive Calendar September
Telephone
section every Thursday and the Columbus Day Second Mon- Cell Phones
daily Sidekick, both of which day in October The US uses a variety of
include entertainment options. cell-phone systems, most of
Veterans Day November 11 which are incompatible with
Boston Herald (www.bos- Thanksgiving Day Fourth the GSM 900/1800 standard
tonherald.com) The more right- Thursday in November used throughout Europe and
wing daily, competing with the Asia. The main cell-phone
Christmas Day December 25
Globe; has its own entertain- companies that have exten-
ment section on Friday. sive coverage in Boston and
around New England are
Boston Magazine (www. Safe Travel AT&T, Sprint and Verizon,
bostonmagazine.com) The
As with most big US cities, which have outlets around
city’s monthly glossy magazine.
there are run-down sections Boston.
Improper Bostonian of Boston in which crime is a
(www.improper.com) A sassy problem. These are primarily Phone Codes
biweekly distributed free from in Roxbury, Mattapan and
All US phone numbers con-
sidewalk dispenser boxes. Dorchester (where tourist
sist of a three-digit area code
attractions are limited). Parts
followed by a seven-digit
of the South End border Rox-
local number. Even if you are
bury, as does Jamaica Plain.
Opening Hours calling locally, you must dial
¨¨Banks 8:30am to 4pm
¨Ïn the South End, avoid areas all 10 digits. If you are calling
southeast of Harrison Ave and long distance, dial %1 + area
Monday to Friday; sometimes code + seven-digit number.
to 6pm on Friday and/or 9am to southwest of Massachusetts Ave
after dark. ¨Ärea codes Boston %617;
noon on Saturday.
216
suburban Boston %781; North Cambridge happenings and ¨¨Transportation MBTA buses
Shore %978; South Shore self-guided walking tours. and commuter trains are acces-
%508 Massachusetts Office of sible, although not all subway
¨¨Country code %1 for USA Travel & Tourism (%617- trains and stations are. See
¨Ïnternational dialing 973-8500; www.massvacation. MBTA Accessibility (www.mbta.
code %011 com) Information about events com/accessibility) for more in-
and activities throughout the formation. Ferries to the Boston
D i rec to ry A–Z T ime
state, including an excellent Harbor Islands, Provincetown

and Salem are all accessible.
Time guide to green tourism and
Boston is on Eastern Stand- resources especially for gay
ard Time, five hours behind and lesbian travelers.
Greenwich Mean Time. When National Park Service Visas
it’s noon in Boston, it’s: Visitors Center (NPS; ¨¨Check with the US State Dept
¨¨9am in San Francisco Map p236; www.nps.gov/ for updates and details on entry
¨¨5pm in London bost; Faneuil Hall; h9am- requirements.
¨¨9pm in Moscow
6pm; YState) The brand
¨¨The Visa Waiver Program
new NPS Visitors Center has
¨¨2am in Tokyo (VWP) allows nationals from 36
loads of information about the
¨¨4am in Melbourne countries (including most EU
Freedom Trail sights. This is
countries, Japan, Australia and
This region observes daylight also the starting point for the
New Zealand) to enter the US
saving time from the second free NPS Freedom Trail
without a visa for up to 90 days.
Sunday in March until the Tour (h10am & 2pm Apr-Oct;
YState). There is an additional ¨¨VWP visitors require a
first Sunday in November.
NPS Visitors Center at the machine-readable passport and
Charlestown Navy Yard. approval under the Electronic
Tourist System for Travel Authoriza-
Information tion (ESTA) at least three days
before arrival. There is a $14 fee
Boston Common Infor- Travelers with for processing and authorization
mation Kiosk (GBCVB Disabilities (payable online). Once ap-
Visitors Center; Map p234;
Boston attempts to cater to proved, the registration is valid
www.bostonusa.com; Boston
residents and visitors with for two years.
Common; h8:30am-5pm; disabilities by providing cut
YPark St) Starting point for ¨Ïn essence, ESTA requires that
curbs, accessible restrooms
the Freedom Trail and many and ramps on public build- you register specific information
other walking tours. ings; but old streets, side- online (name, address, passport
walks and buildings mean info etc). You will receive one of
Boston Harbor Islands
that facilities are not always three responses: ‘Authorization
Pavilion (Map p236; www.
up to snuff. Approved’ (this usually comes
bostonharborislands.org; Rose
within minutes; most applicants
Kennedy Greenway; h9am- ¨¨Sights Most major museums
can expect to receive this re-
5pm May-Oct; W; YAquarium) are accessible by wheelchair,
sponse); ‘Authorization Pending’
Ideally located on the Rose while the Isabella Stewart
(you’ll need to check the status
Kennedy Greenway, this Gardner Museum, the Museum
within the next 72 hours); or
information center will tell you of Fine Arts and the Museum of
‘Travel not Authorized.’ If this is
everything you need to know Science offer special programs
the case, it means you will need
to plan your visit to the Boston and tours for travelers with
to apply for a visa.
Harbor Islands. Don’t miss the disabilities.
¨¨Those who need a visa – ie
nearby Harbor Fog Sculpture,
¨Äctivities Many tours use anyone staying longer than
which immerses passers-by in
the sounds and sensations of vehicles that are wheelchair 90 days, or from a non-VWP
the harbor. accessible, including Boston country – should apply at the
Duck Tours and New England US consulate in their home
Cambridge Visitor Infor-
Aquarium Whale Watch. Walk- country.
mation Kiosk (Map p250;
ing tours like the Freedom Trail ¨¨Canadians are exempt from
www.cambridge-usa.org; Har-
and the student tour of Harvard the process. They do not need
vard Sq; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri,
Yard are also accessible, though visas, though they do need a
1-5pm Sat & Sun; YHarvard)
the historic buildings may passport or document approved
Detailed information on current
not be. by the Western Hemisphere
217
Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS this book (105 inches and counting). Thanks

also to the Somerville school system, for
Many thanks to the travelers who used the closing schools at every possible opportunity.
last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, And thanks (for real) to our neighbor Kenny for
useful advice and interesting anecdotes: fixing our heater when the professionals could
Anna Cartier, Damien Vacheron, David Price, not. Despite the challenges, it’s always a treat
Friederike Haberstroh, Katja Daniel, Kersten to write about my adopted home town… even
in winter.
Heineke, Peter Watkins, Steve Gustus.
AUTHOR THANKS ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Cover photograph: Rose Kennedy Greenway
Mara Vorhees with view of the Custom House tower; Mark
Thanks, weather gods, for the unprecedented Hunt/Corbis.
snowfall while I was researching and writing
THIS BOOK Destination Editor Dora Cover Researcher Naomi

Whitaker Parker
This 6th edition of Lonely Product Editors Paul
Planet’s Boston guidebook Thanks to Imogen Bannis‑
Harding, Briohny Hooper ter, Sarah Billington, Caro‑
was researched and written
Senior Cartographer lyn Boicos, Wayne Murphy,
by Mara Vorhees, who also
Alison Lyall Catherine Naghten, Martine
wrote the previous two edi‑
Book Designer Mazzy Power, Alison Ridgway, Ellie
tions. This guidebook was
Prinsep Simpson, Luna Soo, Angela
produced at Lonely Planet
by the following: Assisting Editors Victoria Tinson, Lauren Wellicome
Harrison, Jodie Martire,
Saralinda Turner
21 8 N OTE S
219
see also separate subindexes for:
5 EATING P223
6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE P224
3 ENTERTAINMENT P224
Index 7 SHOPPING P225

2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES P226
4 SLEEPING P226
Emerald Necklace 158 Bromfield Art Gallery 98

A B Hubway, The 209-10 Brookline 45, 155-62, 155,
accommodations 15, 178-88 Back Bay 45, 105-116, 105, Minuteman Bikeway 153 254
Back Bay 184-5 244-5, 30
Southwest Corridor 116 drinking & nightlife 156,
Beacon Hill & Boston accommodations 184-5 160
Black Heritage Trail 70, 75
Common 182 art galleries 106 entertainment 161
Blackstone Block 83
Cambridge 187-8 drinking & nightlife 106, food 156, 158-60
boat travel 208, 210, 211-12,
Charlestown 181 113-14
see also cruises highlights 155
Downtown & entertainment 114
boating 78, 69, 69 local life 156
Waterfront 182-3 food 106, 111-13
bombing 199 shopping 161-2
Kenmore Square & highlights 105, 107, 109
Fenway 185-6 books 190 sights 157-8
local life 106
Seaport District & South bookstores 38, 85, 90, 98, sports & activities 162
shopping 114-16
Boston 186-7 104, 144, 145, 152, 145 transport 156
sights 106, 107-11
South End & Boston Athenaeum 73 Buckman Tavern
sports & activities 116 (Lexington) 167
Chinatown 183-4 Boston Bruins 40, 59, 65
transport 106 Bumpkin Island 165
Streetcar Suburbs 188 Boston Celtics 40, 59, 65
Back Bay Fens 124 Bunker Hill Bridge 53, 3, 92
West End & Boston Children’s
North End 181-2 ballet 203 Museum 132 Bunker Hill Monument 29,
Acorn Street 74, 43 Barbara Krakow Gallery 110 Boston College 205 52, 29, 52, 176
activities 39-41, see also baseball 7, 39, 40, 59, 110, Boston Common 26, 45, Bunker Hill Museum 52
individual neighbor- 123, 128 see also Boston 70-1, 182, 69, 234-5, 70 bus travel 209, 210
hoods & activities, Red Sox
Boston Harbor Islands 10, business hours 31, 34, 36,
sports & activities basketball 40, 59, 65 164-7, 164, 10 38, 215
subindex Battle Green
Boston Light 165-6, 10
Adams, Samuel 73, 82, 195 (Lexington) 167, 18
Boston Marathon 20, 22 C
African Meeting House 73 Battle of Bunker Hill 21, 29,
52, 196 Boston Massacre 27, 29, Cambridge 45, 138-154, 138
air travel 208-9 194, 195
Alcott, Louisa May 74, 168 beaches 173 accommodations 187-8
Boston Massacre
All Saints Way 63 Beacon Hill 12, 45, 67-78, drinking & nightlife 139,
Monument 71
Allston 160, 162 67, 234-5, 12 147-9
Boston Massacre Site 27
accommodations 182 entertainment 149-51
Alpha Gallery 110 Boston Pops 203
drinking & nightlife 68, food 139, 143-7
Amtrak 208 Boston Public Library 108-
76-7 highlights 138, 140
animals 19, 81 9, 108
entertainment 77 local life 139
antiques 38, 77, 78, 152 Boston Red Sox 39, 59, 119,
food 68, 74, 76 shopping 151-3
architecture 19, 107, 202 128, 200, 3
highlights 67, 71, 72 sights 139, 140, 142-3
area codes 215-6 Boston Sculptors Gallery 98
local life 68 sports & activities 153-4
Arlington Street Church 110 Boston Symphony
shopping 68, 77-8 Orchestra 127, 203 transport 139
Arnold Arboretum 157
sights 69, 70-1, 72, 734 Boston Tea Party 22, Cambridge Antique
art galleries, see museums
sports & activities 78 132, 195 Market 152
& galleries
transport 68 Boston Tea Party Ships & Cambridge Common 142
arts 18, 201-3
Beanpot Tournament 20, Museum 22, 132, 177, Cambridge School of
ATMs 214
206, 39 195, 176 Culinary Arts 147
Berklee College of Music 206 Boston University 205 canoeing 40, 41, 153-4,
Sights 000 bicycle travel 40, 41, 116, bowling 128, 154 Cape Cod National Seashore
209-10 Brattle Square 145 (Provincetown) 173
Map Pages 000
Charles River Bike Brewer Fountain 71 Car Talk 142
Photo Pages 000
Path 154 Carson Beach 135
220
casinos 190-1 Park Street Church 27, drinking & nightlife 25, football 39, 59, 200
Castle Island & Fort 73, 26 33-4, see also individual Forest Hills Cemetery 157-8
Independence 132 St Leonard’s Church 63 neighborhoods, drinking Fort Point Arts
Cathedral of the Holy & nightlife subindex Community 132
Trinity Church 107, 107
Cross 96 costs 34 Fort Warren 165
Citgo sign 124
cell phones 215 opening hours 34 Franklin Park Zoo 158
City Hall Plaza 83-4
Central & Kendall Squares tipping 34 Frederick Law Olmsted
climate 15, 111, 191
INDEX c-I
146-7, 252, 253 Collection of Historical Sci- National Historic

Central Burying Ground 71 entific Instruments 143 E Site 157
Charles Hayden Columbia Point 134 economy 190-1 Freedom Trail 26-9, 212,
Planetarium 57 Edward Kennedy Institute 29, 6
Commercial Street
Charles River 25, 93 (Provincetown) 173 for the US Senate 13, 134
Charles River Esplanade Commonwealth Avenue 110 electricity 214 G
9, 110, 9 Commonwealth Museum Emerald Necklace 158 galleries, see museums &
Charlestown 44, 48-54, 134 emergencies 213 galleries
48, 229 Concord 166-9 Emerson College 206 Gallery Naga 110
accommodations 181 Concord Museum 168 Emerson, Ralph Waldo Gardner, Isabella Stewart
drinking & nightlife cooking courses 147 168, 195-6 122-3
49, 54 Copley Society of Art 110 entertainment 35-6, see gardens, see parks &
food 49, 53-4 also individual gardens
Copley Square 9, 8
neighborhoods gay & lesbian travelers
highlights 48, 50-1, 52 Copp’s Hill Burying
opening hours 36 173, 214
sights 50-1, 52, 53 Ground 29, 60
tickets 36 George Washington Statue
sports & activities 54 costs 14, 31, 179, 215
websites 36 69, 6, 177
transport 49 courses 104, 147, 154
Ether Dome 59-60 Georges Island 165
Charlestown Navy Yard credit cards 214
events 20-2, see also Gibson House Museum 110
50-1, 50 cruises 40, 78, 211-12
festivals & events golf 154, 162
children, travel with 23-4 culture 190-1 Granary Burying Ground
Chinatown 45, 94-104, Curley, James Michael 198
F 26, 73
94, 242 currency 213
Faneuil Hall 27, 83 Grape Island 165
accommodations 183-4 Custom House 85-6
Fenway 45, 117-28, 117, Great Elm Site 71
drinking & nightlife 95, customs regulations 213 248-9 Great House Site 53
101-2
cycling, see bicycle travel accommodations 185-6 Great Molasses Flood 59
entertainment 95, 102
drinking & nightlife Greyhound 208
food 95, 99-100
highlights 94 D 118, 127
entertainment 118, 127-8
local life 95 dance 203 H
shopping 103-4 dangers & annoyances 215 food 118, 125-6 Halloween 22
sights 96 Decordova Museum & highlights 119, 123 Hancock, John 72, 194-5
sports & activities 104 Sculpture Park local life 118 Harvard Art Museums
(Concord) 168 sights 119, 123, 124-5 13, 142
transport 95
Deer Island 166 sports & activities 119, 128 Harvard Bridge 205
Christ Church 142
Design Museum Boston 13 transport 118 Harvard Museum of
Christian Science
Church 111 dinosaurs 57 Fenway Park 7, 119, 128, Natural History 142
churches & cathedrals disabilities, travelers 3, 7, 119 Harvard Square 9, 142-3,
with 216 festivals & events 20-2, 60 144-5, 144, 250-1, 3, 8
Arlington Street
Church 110 discount cards 213 Fishermen’s Feast 60 Harvard University 204
Cathedral of the Holy Dorchester Heights 132-3 Independence Day 21 Harvard Yard 140, 140
Cross 96 Downtown 45, 79-91, 79, Independent Film Haunted Happenings 22,
Christ Church 142 236-7 Festival of Boston 20 169, 22
Christian Science accommodations 182-3 Italian festivals 21, 60 history 192-200
Church 111 drinking & nightlife 80, Patriots’ Day 20 hockey 20, 40, 65, 206, 39
New Old South 88-9 St Anthony’s Feast 60 holidays 215
Church 111 entertainment 89-90 St Patrick’s Day 20 Hood Milk Bottle 132
Old North Church 27, food 80, 86-7 film 20, 190 House of the Seven Gables
58, 58 highlights 79, 82 food 25, 92-3, 92, 93, (Salem) 170
local life 80 see also individual Hub on Wheels 21
shopping 90-1 neighborhoods
Sights 000 sights 82, 83-6 Boston Cream Pie 88
Map Pages 000 sports & activities 91 costs 31 I
Photo Pages 000 Independence Day 21
transport 80 food trucks 31, 76
221
Independent Film Festival Leather District 242 Mayflower II (Plymouth) 171 Isabella Stewart Gardner
of Boston 20 drinking & nightlife 102 measures 213 Museum 122-3, 122
Inman Square 252-3 food 101 Millennium Tower 85 John F Kennedy Library
Institute of Contemporary Leonard Zakim Bunker Hill Mills Gallery 99 & Museum 134
Art 131, 131 Bridge 53, 3, 92 Minute Man National Larz Anderson Auto
internet access 214 lesbian travelers 173, 214 Historic Park Museum & Park 157
Isabella Stewart Gardner Lexington 166-9 (Lexington) 167 List Visual Arts
Center 141
INDEX I-n
Museum 122-3, 122 Lexington Green 18 MIT Museum 141
Italian festivals 21, 60 mobile phones 215 MassArt 124
libraries
itineraries 16-17 money 14, 179, 214-15 Mills Gallery 99
Boston Athenaeum 73
Mt Auburn Cemetery 143 MIT Museum 141
Boston Public Library
Mugar Memorial Library 124 Museum of African
J 108-9, 108
American History 73
Jamaica Plain 45, 155-62, Mary Baker Eddy Library Mugar Omni Theater 65
Museum of Fine Arts
155, 255 & Mapparium 111 Museum of African
120-1, 120
Mugar Memorial Library American History 73
drinking & nightlife 156, Museum of Science
160-1 124 Museum of Fine Arts
23, 57
entertainment 161 North End Branch 120-1, 120
New England Sports
food 156, 159-60
Library 62 Museum of Science 57, 23 Museum 59
List Visual Arts Center 141 museums & galleries 10,
highlights 155 Nichols House
literature 19, 190, 201 13, 18, 142, 11 Museum 74
local life 156
Little Brewster Island 165-6 Alpha Gallery 110 Old State House 27,
shopping 161-2
local life 25, 49, see also Barbara Krakow 82, 82
sights 157-8
individual Gallery 110 Paul Revere House
sports & activities 162 neighborhoods Boston Children’s 27, 60
transport 156 Offbeat Harvard Square Museum 132
John Adams Courthouse 73 Peabody Essex Museum
144-5 Boston Sculptors (Salem) 170
John F Kennedy Library & Italian Culture in the Gallery 98
Museum 134 Peabody Museum of
North End 62-3 Boston Tea Party Ships & Archaeology &
John F Kennedy National South End Art Stroll Museum 22, 132, 177, Ethnology 142-3
Historic Site 157 98-9 195, 176 Photographic Resource
John Hancock Tower 110-11 Logan International Bromfield Art Gallery 98 Center 157
John Harvard Mall 53 Airport 208 Buckman Tavern Pilgrim Hall Museum
Longfellow House 143 (Lexington) 167 (Plymouth) 172
Louisburg Square 74 Bunker Hill Museum 52
K Plimoth Plantation
kayaking 40, 41, 78, 153-4 Lovells Island 165 Collection of Historical (Plymouth) 171
Scientific Instruments Provincetown Art As-
Kendall Square 252-3 143 sociation & Museum
Kenmore Square 45, 117 M Commonwealth (Provincetown) 173
28, 124, 117, 248-9 magazines 215 Museum 134 Puvis de Chavannes
accommodations 185-6 Magliozzi, Tom & Ray 142 Concord Museum Gallery 108
drinking & nightlife 118, Manchester-Boston (Concord) 168 Sargent Gallery 109
126-7 Regional Airport 209 Copley Society of USS Constitution
entertainment 127-8 marathon 20, 22 Art 110 Museum 51
food 118, 125 markets Decordova Museum West End Museum 59
highlights 117, 119 Boston Public Market & Sculpture Park music 202-3
local life 118 13, 87 (Concord) 168
shopping 128 Cambridge Antique Design Museum
sights 119-20 Market 152 Boston 13 N
Haymarket 87 Edward M Kennedy Narrowest House 60
sports & activities 128
SoWa Open Market 103 Institute for the New England Aquarium
transport 118 Senate 13, 134
SoWa Vintage Market 81, 81
Kennedy, John F 19, 134, Fort Point Arts
157, 198 104 New England Holocaust
Community 132 Memorial 83
King’s Chapel & Burying Mary Baker Eddy Library &
Mapparium 111 Gallery Naga 110 New England Patriots
Ground 26, 84
Massachusetts College of Gibson House Museum 39, 200
Art & Design 206 110 New England Sports
L Massachusetts Institute Harvard Art Museums Museum 59
Langone Park 63 of Technology 141, 13, 142 New Old South Church 111
language 25 204, 141 Harvard Museum of newspapers 215
Lansdowne St 47, 118 Massachusetts State Natural History 142 Nichols House Museum 74
Larz Anderson Auto House 26, 72, 72 Institute of Contempo- nightlife, see drinking &
Museum & Park 157 MassArt 124 rary Art 131, 131 nightlife
222
North End 44, 55-66, 55, Public Garden 69, 5, 69 Revere, Paul 27, 58, 60, SoWa Artists Guild 96, 99
63, 232-3, 11, 63 World’s End 166 82, 195 spas 116
accommodations 181-2 Patriots’ Day 20 Revolutionary War 18, 177, Spectacle Island 165
drinking & nightlife Paul Revere House 27, 60 194-6, 176-7 sporting events 20-2
56, 65 Peabody Essex Museum Robert Gould Shaw sports 39-41, see also
entertainment 65 (Salem) 170 Memorial 70 individual sports
food 56, 61-4 Peabody Museum of Rose Kennedy Greenway 84 St Leonard’s Church 63
INDEX N-U
highlights 55, 58 Archaeology & Steaming Kettle 83

shopping 65 Ethnology 142-3 S Streetcar Suburbs 45,
sights 58, 60 Peddocks Island 165 safety 215 155-62, 188
tours 66 Photographic Resource sailing 41, 45, 162 subway travel 210-11
Center 157 Salem 169-70
transport 56 swan boats 69, 69
Pilgrim Hall Museum Salem Maritime National
North End Branch Symphony Hall 124-5
(Plymouth) 172 Historic Site 170
Library 62
pizza 25, 64 Sargent Gallery 109
North End Park 62
Northeastern University 206
planning 14-15, 18-19 Seaport District 45, 129-35, T
accommodation 15 129, 239, 93 taxes 215
Boston basics 14-15 accommodations 186-7 taxis 211
O telephone services 215-16
budgeting 14-15 drinking & nightlife 135
Old City Hall 84-5
children, travel with 23-4 entertainment 135 TF Green Airport 209
Old Corner Bookstore
27, 85 climate 15, 111, 191 food 133-4 theater 203
Old Manse (Concord) costs 14, 31, 179, 215 highlights 129, 131 Theater District 242, 47
167-8 festivals & events 20-2 shopping 135 drinking & nightlife 102
Old North Bridge free stuff 19 sights 131, 132 entertainment 102
(Concord) 167, 176 itineraries 16-17 sports & activities 135 food 100
Old North Church 27, local life 25 transport 130 Thompson Island 166
58, 58 neighborhoods 44-5 shopping 37-8, see time 216
Old South Meeting House repeat visitors 13 also individual neigh- tipping 31, 34
27, 85 travel seasons 14-15 borhoods, shopping Tory Row 143
Old State House 27, 82, 82 websites 14-15 subindex tourist information 216
O’Neill, Thomas 198 Plimoth Plantation skating 78, 154 tours 211-12
opening hours 31, 34, 36, (Plymouth) 171 Sleepy Hollow Cemetery train travel 211
38, 215 Plymouth 171-2 (Concord) 168
traveler’s checks 215
Orchard House (Concord) Plymouth Rock Smith Campus Center 144
travel to/from Boston
168 (Plymouth) 171 smoking 213 208-9, 208-12
Otis House 59 politics 190-1 Soldiers & Sailors travel within Boston 15,
Province Lands Visitor Monument 71 209-12
P Center (Provincetown) South Boston 45, 129-35, Trinity Church 107, 107
painting 201-2 173 129, 239
trolley tours 212
Parkman Bandstand 71 Provincetown 172-5, 174-5 accommodations 186-7
Park Street Church 26, Provincetown Art drinking & nightlife
73, 26 Association & Museum 130, 135 U
parks & gardens 19 (Provincetown) 173 entertainment 135 universities & colleges
Prudential Center Skywalk food 130, 134-5 204-6
Arnold Arboretum 157
Observatory 111 highlights 129-35 Berklee College of Music
Back Bay Fens 124 206
Boston Common 26, 45, Public Garden 69, 5, 69 sights 132-3
public holidays 215 Boston College 205
70-1, 69, 234-5, 70 transport 130
Puvis de Chavannes Boston University 205
Cambridge Common 142 South End 45, 94-104, 94,
Gallery 108 240-1 Emerson College 206
Deer Island 166
accommodations 183-4 Harvard University 204,
Emerald Necklace 158 140
Langone Park 63 Q drinking & nightlife
Massachusetts College
Quincy Market 24, 83-4, 86 95, 101
Minute Man National of Art & Design 206
Historic Park entertainment 95, 102
Massachusetts Institute
(Lexington) 167 food 95, 96-7, 99-101
R of Technology 141,
North End Park 62 highlights 94 204, 141
radio 213 local life 95
Ralph Waldo Emerson Northeastern
shopping 103-4 University 206
Sights 000 Memorial House
(Concord) 168 sights 96 USS Cassin Young 51
Map Pages 000 sports & activities 104 USS Constitution 29, 50-1
Red Sox 39, 59, 119, 128,
Photo Pages 000 transport 95
200, 3
22 3
V 5 EATING E M
vacations 215 El Oriental de Cuba 159 Maria’s Pastry 61
75 Chestnut 74
viewpoints 111, 130 El Pelon 125 Menton 134
80 Thoreau (Concord) 169
visas 216 Emma’s Pizza 146 Mews Restaurant & Cafe
visual arts 201-2 (Provincetown) 174
A Michael’s Deli 158
F
I N D E X E AT I N G
W Alden & Harlow 146 Mike & Patty’s 100
Aqua Bar (Provincetown) Falafel King 87
Walden Pond (Concord) Mike’s City Diner 96
174 Figs 53, 76
12, 168, 12 Mike’s Pastry 61
Area Four 147 Finale Desserterie 100-1
walking tours 212 Miracle of Science Bar &
Atlantic Fish Co 113 Flour 111, 133 Grill 146
Black Heritage Trail 70, 75
Audubon Boston 125 Franklin Café 97 Modern Pastry 61
Chinatown Market
Tour 104 Avana Sushi 100 Friendly Toast 146 Mooo… 76
Hahvahd Tour 154 Fugakyu 159 Mr Bartley’s Burger
Harvard Square 144-5 B Cottage 145
NPS Freedom Trail B&G Oysters 97 G Myers & Chang 97
Tour 91 Barking Crab 133 Galleria Umberto 61 My Thai Vegan Café 100
South End Art Stroll 98 BarLola 112-13 Gallows 98, 101
SoWa Art Walk 96 Bedford Farms (Concord) Gaslight, Brasserie du N
Waterfront 45, 79-91, 169 Coin 97 Navy Yard Bistro & Wine
79, 236 Bella Luna Milky Way 159 Giacomo’s Ristorante 62 Bar 53
accommodations 182-3 Bibim 160 Gigi Gelateria 62 Neptune Oyster 62
drinking & nightlife 80, Bistro du Midi 101 Gourmet Dumpling New England Soup Factory
88-9 House 99
Blue-Eyed Crab (Salem) 170
entertainment 89-90 (Plymouth) 172 Grotto 74 Night Market 145
food 80, 86-7 Blunch 96 Gyro City 125-6 No 9 Park 76
highlights 79, 81 Bon Me 146 Nosh Tavern (Plymouth) 172
local life 80 Boston Public Market 87 H
shopping 90-1 Brewer’s Fork 53
sights 81, 85-6
Harbor Lounge O
Butcher Shop 99 (Provincetown) 174
sports & activities 91 O Ya 101
Haymarket 87
transport 80
watersports 78
C Hungry Mother 147
P
Café ArtScience 147
weather 15, 111, 191 Paramount 74
weights 213
Café de Lulu 100 I Parish Café 112
Cafe Rustico 60 India Quality 125
West End 44, 55-66, 55, Parla 61-2
230-1 Cambridge, 1 145 Island Creek Oyster Pauli’s 61
Canteen (Provincetown) Bar 125
accommodations 181-2 Peach Farm 100
173-4
drinking & nightlife 56, Pedro’s Tacos 86
64-5 Carmelina’s 62 J Petit Robert Bistro 125
entertainment 65 Carmen Trattoria 62
jm Curley 87 Piattini 112
food 56, 60-4 Casa Razdora 86
Jo Jo TaiPei 160 Picco 96
highlights 55, 57 Casa Romero 112
JP Licks 159 Piperi Mediterranean
shopping 65-6 Chacarero 87
Grill 74
sights 57, 59-60 Citizen Public House 126
Clover Food Lab 143 K Pizzeria Regina 61
transport 56 Pomodoro 61
Coda 112 Kaze Shabu Shabu 100
West End Museum 59
Coppa 97 Kitchen 99
whale watching 40, 91 Q
Country Kitchen (Concord) Koy 86
Witch House (Salem) 170
169 Kupel’s Bakery 159 Q Restaurant 100
World’s End 166
Courtyard 112 Quincy Market 86
L
Y D Legal Harborside 133 R
yoga 104, 116, 154
Daily Catch 62 Legal Oysteria 53 Red’s Sandwich Shop
Darwin’s Ltd 143-5 L’Espalier 113 (Salem) 170
Z Deuxave 113 Life Alive 146 Ross’ Grill (Provincetown)
Zakim Bunker Hill Bridge Local 149 134-5 174
Douzo 113
3, 53, 92 Lolita Cocina 112 Row 34 133
Durgin Park 86
Zakim, Lenny 53 Lulu’s Sweet Shoppe 61 Russell House Tavern 145
224
Silvertone 88
S Z G Sip Café 88
Salty Pig 112 Zaftigs Delicatessen 159 Gallows 98, 101 Sofá Café 113
Salumeria Italiana 63 Zen Sushi Bar & Grill 76 Good Life 89 Stage Nightclub 13, 102
Sam La Grassa’s 87 Green Street Grill 148 State Park 148
6 DRINKING
Sam’s 133-4 & Gulu-Gulu Café Storyville 114
NIGHTLIFE (Salem) 170
Santarpio’s 64
INDEX D RIN K IN G & NI G H T LIF E
Scampo 61
21st Amendment 76 T
Scollay Square 74 H Thinking Cup 88
Shanghai Gate 160 Harpoon Brewery &
Shōjō 100 A Beer Hall 135
Tip Tap Room 76
Algiers Coffee House 148 Top of the Hub 114
South End Buttery 97 Havana Club 148
Alibi 64 Tunnel 102
South Street Diner 101 Haven 161
Sportello 133 Alley Bar 89 Hawthorne 126
Sullivan’s 134 Highball Lounge 88 U
Sweetgreen 111 B Umbria Prime 89
Beat Hotel 147 I
T Beehive 101 Intermission Tavern 102 V
Taiwan Cafe 99-100 Biddy Early’s Pub 89 Via Lago Café
Tangierino 54 Bill’s Bar 127 (Lexington) 168
J Voltage Coffee & Art 148
Taranta 64 Bin 26 Enoteca 76
Jacob Wirth 101
Tasty Burger 126 Bleacher Bar 126
Ten Tables 160 Boston Beer Works 64, 126-7 W
Toro 97 Brahmin 113 K Ward 8 64
Toscanini’s 146 Brendan Behan Pub 160 Koullshi 54
Warren Tavern 54
Trattoria Toscana 126 Brick & Mortar 148 West End Johnnies 65
Tres Gatos 159 Bukowski Tavern 113 L Whisky Saigon 102
Trident Booksellers & La Burdick 147 Wired Puppy 113
Café 112 C Lansdowne Pub 127
Troquet 101 Last Hurrah 89
Café Pamplona 144, 147 Z
Caffé Dello Sport 65 L’Espalier 113
Zume’s Coffee House 54
U Caffe Nero 88 Lower Depths Tap
Uburger 125 Caffé Paradiso 65 Room 126
Union Oyster House 86 Caffé Vittoria 65 Lucky’s Lounge 135 3 ENTERTAINMENT
Cambridge Brewing Co 149
Candibar 102 M A
V A-House (Provincetown)
Charlie’s Kitchen 148 Machine 127
Vee Vee 159 173
Cheers 77 Middlesex 148-9
Veggie Galaxy 146 American Repertory
City Bar 113 Minibar 114 Theater 149
Club Café 114 Mr Dooley’s Boston
W Corner Tavern 113 Tavern 88-9
Winsor Dim Sum Cafe 100 Cornwall’s 127 B
Berklee Performance
Croke Park Whitey’s 135 P Center 114
X Pavement Coffeehouse 127 Blue Hills Bank
Xinh Xinh 100 D Pier Six 54 Pavilion 135
Delux Café 101 Plough & Stars 148 Boatslip Resort
Y Drink 135 Polcari’s Coffee 62, 63 (Provincetown) 173
Yankee Lobster Co 133 Pour House 114 Boston Center for the
Publick House 160 Arts 102-3
Yoma Burmese E
Restaurant 160 Boston Pops 127
Eastern Standard 126
Boston Symphony
Equal Exchange Cafe 64 R Orchestra 127
River Gods 148 Brattle Theatre 149
F Brighton Music Hall 162
Firehouse Vending S
Sights 000 Machine 54
Map Pages 000
Samuel Adams Brewery 161 C
Four’s 64-5 Sevens 76 Cambridge Forum 150
Photo Pages 000 Frost Ice Bar 13, 88 Shays Pub & Wine Bar 147 Cantab Lounge 151
22 5
Charles Playhouse 103 Cardullo’s Gourmet
Church 128 P Shop 152-3 M
Citi Performing Arts Paradise Rock Club 162 Cheapo Records 153 Made in Fort Point 135
Center 103 Paramount Center 89 Closet, Inc 116 Make Way for
Club Oberon 150 Pied Bar (Provincetown) 173 Condom World 116 Ducklings 90
Club Passim 149 Converse 114 Marathon Sports 115
Marika’s Antique Shop 78
Comedy Studio 149 R Copley Place 116
INDEX SH O PPIN G
Company One 103 Core de Vie 77 Moxie 78
Red Room @ Café 939 114
Crown & Anchor Regattabar 150 Crush Boutique 77
(Provincetown) 173
Ryles Jazz Club 150-1 Curious George Store 152 N
Newbury Comics 115
D S D North Bennet Street
School 66
Dick’s Beantown Sanders Theatre at Daniela Corte 115
Comedy 89 Nuggets 128
Memorial Hall 150 Design Museum Boston
Scullers Jazz Club 162 Store 90
G Shakespeare on the Dickson Bros 152 O
Common 77 Olives & Grace 104
Great Scott 162
Shubert Theatre 103 E On Centre 161
Simons IMAX Theatre 89 Eugene Galleries 77-8 Oona’s Experienced
H Sinclair 149 Clothing 152
Eureka Puzzles 161
Harvard Film Archive Somerville Theatre 150 Out of Town News 153
Cinematheque 150
Hatch Memorial Shell 114 F
T P
House of Blues 128, 47 Fairy Shop 115
TD Garden 65 Prudential Center 116
Huntington Theatre Forty Winks 152
Company 128 Toad 149
G R
I W Garage, The 145
Raven Used Books 145
Improv Asylum 65 Wally’s Café 102 Red Wagon 78
Garment District 153
Improv Boston 151 Wilbur Theatre 103 Revolutionary Boston
Geoclassics 90
Museum Store 91
Institute of Contemporary Good 77
Art 135 Ruby Door 77
7 SHOPPING Good Vibrations 162
Gracie Finn 104
J A Greenway Open Market 90 S
Jacques Cabaret 103 Grolier Poetry Bookshop 144 Salmagundi 161
Ars Libri 98
Sault New England 104
Schoenhof’s Foreign
L B H Books 152
Landmark Kendall Square Ball & Buck 115 Harvard Bookstore 144, 152 Sedurre 66
Cinema 151 Beacon Hill Chocolates 77 Hatched 162 Shake the Tree 66
Laugh Boston 135 Berk’s 152 Helen’s Leather 78 Sikara & Co 114
Lily Pad 150 Black Ink 78 Hempest 116 Society of Arts &
Lizard Lounge 149 Blackstone’s of Beacon Crafts 115
Longy School of Music 150 Hill 77 I Sock It To Me 90
Bobby From Boston 104 Ibex 115 SoWa Open Market 103
M Boing! 161 In Your Ear 144 SoWa Vintage Market 104
Middle East 151 Boston Costume 153 In-Jean-ius 66
Boston Pewter
Modern Theatre 89-90 T
Company 91
Mugar Omni Theater 65
Brattle Book Shop 90 J Tayrona 151
Museum of Fine Arts 128 Jewelers Exchange The Garage 145
Bricco Salumeria 65
Building 91 Trident Booksellers &
Brookline Booksmith 161
Café 115
N
Twentieth Century Ltd 78
New England
C L
Conservatory 128 Twilight 66
Lekker Home 104
Calamus Bookstore 104
LIT Boutique 66
Cambridge Antique
O Local Charm 90 U
Market 152
Opera House 89 Lucy’s League 90 Uniform 104
Cambridge Artists’
Cooperative 152 Lunarik Fashions 115
226
Intercontinental Hotel 182
V G B Irving House 187
V Cirace & Son, Inc 66 G2O Spa & Salon 116 Beacon Hill Hotel &
Gondola di Venezia 78 Bistro 182
Beech Tree Inn 188 J
W Grub Street 104
John Jeffries House 182
Bertram Inn 188
Ward Maps 151
Boxer Hotel 181-2
Weirdo Records 153 H
K
INDEX SP O RTS & ACTIVITIES
Bricco Suites 181

William Carlton Hahvahd Tour 154
Workshop 66 Kendall Hotel 187
Wine Bottega 66 C
J
Wish 78 Cape Codder L
Jamaica Pond 162 (Provincetown) 175 La Cappella Suites 181
Jillian’s & Lucky Strike 128 Carpe Diem
2 SPORTS & Lenox Hotel 185
ACTIVITIES (Provincetown) 175 Liberty Hotel 181
K Chandler Inn 183 Loews Hotel 185
Karma Yoga Studio 154 Charles Hotel 187 Longwood Inn 188
B Kings 116 Charlesmark Hotel 184
Back Bay Yoga Studio 116 Christopher’s by the Bay
Boston Center for Adult (Provincetown) 175 M
Education 104 L Clarendon Square Inn 184 Midtown Hotel 184
Boston Common Frog Liberty Fleet 91 Millennium Bostonian
College Club 185
Pond 78 Hotel 183
Colonnade 185
Brookline Golf Club at M Milner Hotel 183
Commonwealth Court
Putterham 162
Minuteman Bikeway 153 Guest House 184
Constitution Inn 181 N
C Copley House 184
N Newbury Guest House 184
Cambridge Center for Copley Inn 184 Nine Zero 182
Adult Education 154 New England Aquarium
Whale Watch 91 Copley Square Hotel 185
Carson Beach 135
Charles River
North End Market Tour 66 O
Bike Path 154 NPS Freedom Trail Tour 91 E Oasis Guest House &
Charles River Canoe & Eliot Hotel 186 Adams B&B 185-6
Kayak Center 153-4 O Encore 183 Omni Parker House 183
Chinatown Market Tour 104 Old Boston Tours 66 Onyx Hotel 181
Codzilla 91 F
Community Boating 78
R Friend Street Hostel 181 R
Community Ice Skating @ Residence Inn
Kendall Square 154 Rink at the Charles 154
Marriott 186
Courageous Sailing 54 G
Revere Hotel 183-4
S Green Turtle 181
Royal Sonesta 187-8
Southwest Corridor 116 Gryphon House 186
D
Dolphin Fleet Whale Watch S
(Provincetown) 174-5 T H
Seaport Boston
TD Garden 65 Harborside Inn 182
Hotel 186-7
Harding House 187
E
Harvard Square Hotel 187
Exhale Spa 104 4 SLEEPING HI-Boston 183 T
Hotel 140 185 Taylor House 188
40 Berkeley 183
F 463 Beacon Street Guest Hotel Buckminster 186
Fenway Park 128 House 184 Hotel Commonwealth 186 V
Flat Top Johnny’s 154 Hotel Marlowe 188 Verb Hotel 13, 186
Flatbread Co & Sacco’s Hotel Veritas 187
Bowl Haven 154 A
Fresh Pond Golf A Friendly Inn 187 X
Course 154 Ames Hotel 182 I XV Beacon 182
Anthony’s Town House 188 Inn @ St Botolph 185
Sights 000
Map Pages 000
Photo Pages 000
22 7
Boston Maps
Sights Information Routes
Beach Bank Tollway
Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway
Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary
Castle/Palace Internet Secondary
Christian Police Tertiary
Confucian Post Office Lane
Hindu Telephone Unsealed road
Islamic Toilet Road under construction
Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall
Jewish Other Information Steps
Monument Tunnel
Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass
Ruin Beach Walking Tour
Shinto Hut/Shelter Walking Tour detour
Sikh Lighthouse Path/Walking Trail
Taoist Lookout
Winery/Vineyard Mountain/Volcano Boundaries
Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Oasis International
Other Sight Park State/Province
Pass Disputed
Activities, Picnic Area Regional/Suburb
Courses & Tours Waterfall Marine Park
Bodysurfing Cliff
Diving Population Wall
Canoeing/Kayaking Capital (National)
Course/Tour Capital (State/Province) Hydrography
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen City/Large Town River, Creek
Skiing Town/Village Intermittent River
Snorkeling Canal
Surfing Transport
Water
Swimming/Pool Airport
Walking BART station Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Windsurfing Border crossing
Reef
Other Activity Boston T station
Sleeping
Bus Areas
Cable car/Funicular
Airport/Runway
Sleeping Cycling
Camping Ferry Beach/Desert
Metro/Muni station
Eating Monorail
Cemetery (Christian)
Eating Parking Cemetery (Other)
Petrol station
Drinking & Nightlife Subway/SkyTrain station
Glacier
Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Mudflat
Cafe Train station/Railway
Park/Forest
Tram
Entertainment Underground station Sight (Building)
Entertainment Other Transport
Sportsground
Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove
Shopping appear on the maps in this book
HURON 0 2 km
Fresh e
#0 1 mile
Pond VILLAGE
MAP INDEX SOMERVILLE
"
Ð
11 HARVARD "
Ð
1
1 Charlestown (p229) SQUARE
1 1 1
1 1 1 1
2 West End (p230) "
Ð
12
1 1 1
Harvard INMAN CHARLESTOWN
3 North End (p232) Mt
1
Auburn
1 1 1 University SQUARE
1 1
Cemetery 1 1
EAST
4 Beacon Hill & Boston 1 1 1 1
1 1 1 1
BOSTON
Common (p234) 1 1 1 1 CENTRAL "
Ð
2
1
"
Ð
3
SQUARE KENDALL WEST NORTH
5 Downtown & END
SQUARE END
Waterfront (p236)
ALLSTON –
#
6 Seaport District & South Massachusetts Institute Boston
of Technology Logan
BEACON DOWNTOWN Inner International
1
Boston (p239) Harbor
HILL
1 WATERFRONT Airport
7 South End (p240) "
Ð
9 "
Ð 6
8 Chinatown, Leather District & "
Ð
5
Boston BACK "
Ð
4
Theater District (p242) BAY
BRIGHTON University CHINATOWN SEAPORT
9 Back Bay (p244) DISTRICT
"
Ð8
10 Kenmore Square & BROOKLINE KENMORE
Fenway (p247) SQUARE
Chestnut Hill
11 Harvard Square (p250) Reservoir
"
Ð
13 FENWAY Northeastern
12 Central, Kendall & Inman SOUTH
University END
Squares (p252) "
Ð
10 "
Ð
7
CHESTNUT Pleasure
SOUTH Bay
13 Brookline (p254) HILL
BOSTON
14 Jamaica Plain (p255)
Old
"
Ð
14 Harbor
Olmsted Boston
ROXBURY Harbor
Park
JAMAICA
PLAIN Thompson
COLUMBIA Island
POINT
229
0 400 m
e #0 0.2 miles
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So
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Un 13 ú
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â
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3 Ru 3
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# nR Pier 2 Pier 3 Inner
fo ti o Pier 5
rd i tu Pier 1 #
æ6 Harbor
Av St nst 18 Ø
#
d
e ä
# City Co
4 Square Pier 4
ww
w
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Long
Revere
Park D
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ash
4 Charlestown 4
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Zakim Bridge US Coast

Ù
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1
ton
Bridge harles Guard

See map ÓV
U
i
j
C ver
Piers Constitution See map
i
j
93
Ri NORTH
St
p230 END p232

1 1
Wharf
A B 1 C D
æ Top Sights (p50) 12 Navy Yard Bistro & Wine Bar.................... C2

1 Bunker Hill Monument...............................B2 13 Tangierino ................................................... A3
2 Charlestown Navy Yard .............................C3
û Drinking & Nightlife (p54)
æ Sights (p53) 14 Firehouse Vending Machine ..................... B3
3 Bunker Hill Museum ...................................A2 Koullshi ...............................................(see 13)
4 Great House Site.........................................A3 15 Pier Six ......................................................... D3
5 John Harvard Mall.......................................A3 16 Warren Tavern............................................ A3
6 USS Cassin Young......................................C3 17 Zume's Coffee House ................................ A2
7 USS Constitution ........................................C3
8 USS Constitution Museum........................C3 Ø Sports & Activities (p54)
18 Courageous Sailing.................................... C3
ú Eating (p53)
9 Brewer's Fork ..............................................C2 ÿ Sleeping (p181)
10 Figs ...............................................................A3 19 Constitution Inn.......................................... C2
11 Legal Oysteria .............................................A3 20 Green Turtle ................................................ D2
2 30
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æ Top Sights (p57) 5 Otis House ........................................D6 8 Boston Beer Works ......................... F4 14 TD Garden .........................................F3
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10 Four's .................................................F3 ÿ Sleeping (p181)
æ Sights (p59) ú Eating (p60) 11 Tip Tap Room .................................. E6 15 Boxer Hotel .......................................E4
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3 Ether Dome...................................... B4 17 Liberty Hotel .................................... B5
4 New England Sports û Drinking & Nightlife (p64) ý Entertainment (p65) 18 Onyx Hotel ........................................F4
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æ Sights (p60)
1
2 All Saints Way................................................ D3
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north end
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þ Shopping (p65)
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30 Bricco Salumeria ..........................................C6

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7 Ø Sports & Activities (p66)

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p236
26 Scollay Square ......................E3
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DOWNTOWN & WATERFRONT Map on p236

æ Top Sights (p81) 42 Highball Lounge.......................................... B4
1 New England Aquarium ............................ H3 43 Last Hurrah .................................................C4
2 Old State House..........................................D3 44 Mr Dooley's Boston Tavern....................... F4
45 Silvertone .................................................... B4
æ Sights (p83) 46 Sip Café........................................................ E5
DOWNTOWN & WATERFRONT
3 Blackstone Block ........................................ D1 47 Thinking Cup ............................................... A6

4 Boston Massacre Site ................................D3 48 Umbria Prime.............................................. F4
5 Boston Stone............................................... D1
6 Boston Tea Party Ships & Museum .........G7 ý Entertainment (p89)
7 Center Plaza ................................................C2 49 Dick's Beantown Comedy ......................... F4
8 City Hall Plaza..............................................C2 50 Modern Theatre.......................................... B6
9 Custom House ............................................ F3 51 Opera House ............................................... A6
10 Dewey Sq Parks ..........................................E6 52 Paramount Center ..................................... B6
11 Faneuil Hall ..................................................D2 53 Simons IMAX Theatre................................G3
12 Greenway Carousel .................................... F2
13 King's Chapel & Burying Ground ..............C3 þ Shopping (p90)
14 Labyrinth...................................................... F2 54 Boston Pewter Company .......................... E2
15 Millennium Tower .......................................C5 55 Boston Public Market .................................D1
16 New England Holocaust Memorial ........... D1 56 Brattle Book Shop...................................... B5
17 Old City Hall.................................................C3 57 Design Museum Boston Store..................G3
18 Old Corner Bookstore ................................C4 58 Geoclassics ................................................. E2
19 Old South Meeting House..........................C4 59 Greenway Open Market..............................F3
20 Rings Fountain ............................................ F3 60 Haymarket....................................................D1
21 Rose Kennedy Greenway............................E1 61 Jewelers Exchange Building .....................C4
22 Sears Crescent............................................C3 62 Local Charm................................................ E2
23 Steaming Kettle ..........................................C3 63 Lucy's League ............................................. E2
64 Make Way for Ducklings............................ E2
ú Eating (p86) 65 Revolutionary Boston Museum Store ..... E2
24 Casa Razdora ..............................................E3 66 Sock It To Me ............................................. E2
25 Chacarero ....................................................C5
26 Durgin Park..................................................E2 Ø Sports & Activities (p91)
27 Falafel King ..................................................B5 67 Boston Green Cruises................................G4
28 Falafel King ..................................................C6 68 Boston Harbor Cruises..............................G2
29 jm Curley......................................................B5 69 Codzilla ........................................................G2
30 Kaze Shabu Shabu .....................................B7 70 Ghosts & Gravestones................................F2
31 Koy................................................................D2 71 Liberty Fleet ................................................H3
32 Marliave........................................................C4 72 New England Aquarium Whale Watch.....G3
33 Pedro's Tacos..............................................B4 NPS Freedom Trail Tour....................(see 11)
34 Quincy Market.............................................E2 73 Old Town Trolley Tours ..............................F2
35 Sam La Grassa's .........................................C4 74 Upper Deck Trolley Tours .........................G3
36 Union Oyster House ................................... D1
ÿ Sleeping (p182)
û Drinking & Nightlife (p88) 75 Ames Hotel.................................................. D3
37 Alley Bar .......................................................C3 76 Harborside Inn .............................................F3
38 Biddy Early's Pub ........................................ F5 77 Intercontinental Hotel................................ F6
39 Caffe Nero....................................................B6 78 Millennium Bostonian Hotel...................... E2
40 Frost Ice Bar ................................................ F2 79 Nine Zero ..................................................... B4
41 Good Life......................................................C6 Omni Parker House.......................... (see 43)
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1 Institute of Contemporary Art .................. C1 Drink....................................................(see 10)
12 Harpoon Brewery & Beer Hall .................. D3
æ Sights (p132) 13 Lucky's Lounge........................................... B2
2 Boston Children's Museum.......................A2
3 Fort Point Arts Community.......................A2 ý Entertainment (p135)
14 Blue Hills Bank Pavilion .............................D3
ú Eating (p133) Institute of Contemporary Art........... (see 1)
4 Barking Crab................................................ B1 15 Laugh Boston.............................................. C3
5 Flour..............................................................A2
6 Legal Harborside.........................................D3 þ Shopping (p135)
7 Menton .........................................................B2 16 Made in Fort Point...................................... A3
8 Row 34..........................................................B2
9 Sam's............................................................ B1 ÿ Sleeping (p186)
10 Sportello.......................................................B2 17 Residence Inn Marriott.............................. B2
11 Yankee Lobster Co .....................................D3 18 Seaport Boston Hotel................................C2
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1 Boston Sculptors Gallery................ F3 11 Gaslight, Brasserie du 27 Sault New England.......................... D2
2 Bromfield Art Gallery...................... G3 Coin ................................................ F4 ý Entertainment (p102) 28 SoWa Open Market......................... G3
3 Cathedral of the Holy 12 Kitchen..............................................D2 Boston Center for the 29 SoWa Vintage Market..................... G3
Cross ..............................................E4 13 Mike's City Diner..............................C5 Arts..........................................(see 4) 30 Uniform .............................................E2
4 Mills Gallery ......................................E2 14 Myers & Chang ................................ F2 21 Company One.................................. D2
5 SoWa Artists Guild.......................... G3 15 Picco.................................................. E2 22 Wally's Café...................................... A4 ÿ Sleeping (p183)
16 South End Buttery........................... E3 31 40 Berkeley....................................... E1
ú Eating (p96) 17 Toro ...................................................C5 þ Shopping (p103) 32 Chandler Inn ..................................... E1
6 B&G Oysters.....................................E2 23 Ars Libri .............................................F3 33 Chandler Studios ............................. E1
7 Blunch .............................................. C6 û Drinking & Nightlife (p101) Bobby From Boston.................(see 5) 34 Clarendon Square
8 Butcher Shop .................................. D2 18 Beehive .............................................D2 24 Gracie Finn ....................................... E3 Inn .................................................. C3
9 Coppa ................................................E3 19 Delux Café ........................................ D1 25 Lekker Home.................................... E3 35 Encore .............................................. C3
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æ Sights (p96) 13 Xinh Xinh ....................................................................D2 25 Jacques Cabaret .......................................................B2
1 Chinatown Gate ........................................................ E2 Shear Madness................................................(see 22)
û Drinking & Nightlife (p101) 26 Shubert Theatre........................................................C2
ú Eating (p99) 14 Candibar.....................................................................C2 27 Wilbur Theatre...........................................................C2
2 Avana Sushi................................................................E1 15 Emerald Lounge ........................................................B2
Café de Lulu........................................................(see 2) 16 Intermission Tavern..................................................C2 þ Shopping (p103)
3 Gourmet Dumpling House....................................... E2 17 Jacob Wirth................................................................D2 28 Calamus Bookstore .................................................. F2
4 Mike & Patty's ........................................................... B3 18 Les Zygomates.......................................................... F2
5 My Thai Vegan Café.................................................. D2 19 Stage Nightclub......................................................... C1 Ø Sports & Activities (p104)
6 O Ya .............................................................................F2 20 Tunnel.........................................................................C2 29 Boston Center for Adult
7 Peach Farm ............................................................... E2 Education ................................................................A3
8 Q Restaurant ..............................................................D1 ý Entertainment (p102)
9 Shōjō........................................................................... E2 21 Boston Lyric Opera...................................................C2 ÿ Sleeping (p183)
10 South Street Diner.....................................................F2 22 Charles Playhouse ....................................................C2 30 HI-Boston ...................................................................D2
11 Taiwan Cafe............................................................... E2 23 Citi Performing Arts Center.....................................C2 31 Milner Hotel................................................................C2
12 Winsor Dim Sum Cafe.............................................. E2 24 Cutler Majestic Theatre ........................................... C1 32 Revere Hotel ..............................................................B2
CHINATOWN, LEATHER DISTRICT & THEATER DISTRICT

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BACK BAY Map on p244

æ Top Sights (p107) Storyville............................................ (see 73)
1 Boston Public Library.................................E4 Top of the Hub ...................................(see 16)
2 Trinity Church ............................................. F3 42 Wired Puppy................................................C4

3 Alpha Gallery ...............................................G2 43 Berklee Performance Center.................... B5
BACK BAY
4 Arlington Street Church.............................G3 44 Red Room @ Café 939............................... C4

5 Barbara Krakow Gallery.............................G2
6 Charles River Esplanade.............................E1 þ Shopping (p114)
7 Christian Science Church..........................C6 45 Ball & Buck .................................................. E3
8 Commonwealth Avenue ............................D3 46 Closet, Inc.................................................... E3
9 Copley Society of Art ................................. E3 47 Condom World............................................ B4
10 Copley Square............................................. F3 48 Converse ..................................................... B4
11 Gallery Naga ................................................G2 49 Copley Place ............................................... E5
12 Gibson House Museum.............................. G1 50 Daniela Corte .............................................. D3
13 John Hancock Tower.................................. F4 51 Fairy Shop ................................................... C4
14 Mary Baker Eddy Library & 52 Hempest ...................................................... D3
Mapparium ...............................................B6 53 Ibex............................................................... B4
15 New Old South Church .............................. E3 54 Lunarik Fashions ....................................... C4
16 Prudential Center Skywalk 55 Marathon Sports ........................................ E4
Observatory..............................................C5 56 Newbury Comics ........................................ B4
57 Prudential Center....................................... C5
ú Eating (p111) Sikara & Co........................................ (see 42)
17 Atlantic Fish Co ...........................................D4 58 Society of Arts & Crafts............................. E3
18 BarLola......................................................... E3 Trident Booksellers & Café ............. (see 33)
19 Bistro du Midi ............................................. H3
20 Casa Romero...............................................C4 Ø Sports & Activities (p116)
21 Coda ............................................................. F5 59 Back Bay Yoga Studio ............................... G3
22 Courtyard.....................................................E4 60 Boston Duck Tours .................................... D5
23 Deuxave .......................................................A4 61 Exhale Spa...................................................H3
24 Douzo ........................................................... F5 62 G2O Spa & Salon ........................................ C4
25 Finale Desserterie...................................... H3 63 Kings ............................................................ B5
26 Flour............................................................. G4 64 Southwest Corridor ................................... E6
27 L'Espalier .....................................................D4 65 Stoneman Playground............................... B2
28 Lolita Cocina ............................................... E3
29 Parish Café ..................................................G3 ÿ Sleeping (p184)
30 Piattini ..........................................................D4 66 463 Beacon Street Guest House ............. B3
31 Salty Pig ....................................................... F5 67 Charlesmark Hotel ..................................... E3
32 Sweetgreen..................................................E4 68 College Club ................................................G2
33 Trident Booksellers & Café........................B4 69 Colonnade ................................................... D6
70 Commonwealth Court Guest House ....... B4
û Drinking & Nightlife (p113) 71 Copley House.............................................. D6
34 Brahmin ...................................................... G4 72 Copley Inn.................................................... D5
35 Bukowski Tavern.........................................B5 73 Copley Square Hotel.................................. E4
36 City Bar ........................................................D4 74 Hotel 140 ..................................................... F4
37 Club Café .................................................... G4 75 Inn @ St Botolph......................................... D6
38 Corner Tavern .............................................A3 76 Lenox Hotel ................................................. D4
39 Minibar .........................................................E4 77 Loews Hotel.................................................G4
40 Pour House..................................................C4 78 Midtown Hotel............................................. C6
41 Sofá Café......................................................D3 79 Newbury Guest House............................... C4
247
KENMORE SQUARE & FENWAY Map on p248

æ Top Sights (p119) Hawthorne..........................................(see 14)
1 Fenway Park ................................................E3 24 Lansdowne Pub .......................................... E2
2 Isabella Stewart Gardner 25 Lower Depths Tap Room........................... E2
Museum ....................................................D6 26 Machine ....................................................... E3
3 Museum of Fine Arts .................................. E5 27 Pavement Coffeehouse.............................G3
kenmore square & FENWAY

4 Back Bay Fens............................................. F3 Boston Pops.........................................(see 8)
5 Citgo Sign.....................................................E2 Boston Symphony Orchestra............(see 8)
6 MassArt........................................................D6 28 Church .........................................................D4
7 Mugar Memorial Library ............................ B1 Fenway Park......................................... (see 1)
8 Symphony Hall........................................... H4 29 House of Blues............................................ E2
30 Huntington Theatre Company .................H4
ú Eating (p125) Museum of Fine Arts...........................(see 3)
9 Audubon Boston.........................................C2 31 New England Conservatory ...................... G5
10 Citizen Public House ..................................D4
11 El Pelon.........................................................D4 þ Shopping (p128)
12 Gyro City ......................................................D4 32 Nuggets ....................................................... E2
13 India Quality.................................................E2
14 Island Creek Oyster Bar.............................E2 Ø Sports & Activities (p128)
15 Petit Robert Bistro...................................... F2 33 Jillian's & Lucky Strike............................... E2
16 Tasty Burger................................................D3 34 Mothers Rest................................................F3
17 Trattoria Toscana .......................................E4 Museum of Fine Arts...........................(see 3)
18 Uburger ........................................................E2
ÿ Sleeping (p185)
û Drinking & Nightlife (p126) 35 Eliot Hotel ....................................................G2
19 Bill's Bar .......................................................E2 36 Gryphon House............................................ F1
20 Bleacher Bar................................................E3 37 Hotel Buckminster ..................................... E2
21 Boston Beer Works.....................................D3 Hotel Commonwealth.......................(see 14)
22 Cornwall's ....................................................E2 38 Oasis Guest House & Adams B&B...........G3
23 Eastern Standard........................................E2 39 Verb Hotel ................................................... E3
24 8
Key on p247
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æ Top Sights (p140) 15 Clover Food Lab............................... E4 29 Comedy Studio................................ E5 45 Oona's Experienced
1 Harvard Yard ....................................E3 16 Darwin's Ltd .....................................B4 30 Harvard Film Archive Clothing ..........................................F5
17 Mr Bartley's Burger Cinematheque .............................. F4 46 Out of Town News........................... D4
æ Sights (p142) Cottage .......................................... E4 31 Longy School of Music ....................C1 47 Raven Used Books .......................... D5
2 Cambridge Common...................... D2 18 Night Market ....................................D5 32 Regattabar ....................................... C5
48 Schoenhof's Foreign
3 Christ Church .................................. D3 19 Russell House Tavern .....................D4 33 Sanders Theatre at Books............................................. D5
4 Collection of Historical Memorial Hall.................................F3
49 Tayrona .............................................F5
Scientific Instruments..................E2 û Drinking & Nightlife (p147) 34 Sinclair .............................................. D4
5 Harvard Art Museums.....................F4 Algiers Coffee Ø Sports & Activities (p153)
6 Harvard Hall......................................E3 House ....................................(see 13) þ Shopping (p151) 50 Cambridge Center
7 Harvard Museum of Natural 20 Beat Hotel.........................................D4 35 Berk's ................................................ D5 for Adult
History............................................E2 21 Café Pamplona ................................ F5 36 Cambridge Artists' Education ...................................... C4
8 John Harvard Statue .......................E3 22 Charlie's Kitchen..............................C4 Cooperative................................... C3 51 Cambridge Common
9 Longfellow House ............................B2 23 La Burdick.........................................C3 37 Cardullo's Gourmet Playground.................................... C2
10 Massachusetts Hall .........................E3 24 Shays Pub & Wine Bar ....................C5 Shop............................................... D4 52 Karma Yoga Studio..........................F5
11 Peabody Museum of 38 Curious George Store..................... D4 53 Rink at the Charles.......................... C5
Archaeology & ý Entertainment (p149) 39 Dickson Bros.................................... D4
Ethnology....................................... F2 25 American Repertory 40 Forty Winks ...................................... D5 ÿ Sleeping (p187)
12 Tory Row ...........................................A2 Theater...........................................C3 41 Garage .............................................. D4 54 A Friendly Inn................................... G3
Brattle Theatre........................(see 13) 42 Grolier Poetry 55 Charles Hotel ................................... C4
ú Eating (p143) 26 Cambridge Forum ...........................D3 Bookshop ...................................... E5 56 Harvard Square Hotel..................... C4
13 Alden & Harlow ............................... C4 27 Club Oberon ..................................... F5 43 Harvard Bookstore.......................... E4 57 Hotel Veritas .....................................F5
14 Cambridge, 1 ................................... D3 28 Club Passim .....................................D4 44 In Your Ear........................................ D5 58 Irving House..................................... G3
harvard square
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æ Top Sights (p141) û Drinking & Nightlife (p148) þ Shopping (p153)

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1 Massachusetts Institute of Technology ................ D5 14 Brick & Mortar ...........................................................B4 Boston Costume .............................................(see 29)
Cambridge Brewing Co .................................... (see 6) 27 Cambridge Antique Market ..................................... F2
æ Sights (p141) 15 Green Street Grill ......................................................B4 28 Cheapo Records........................................................B4
2 List Visual Arts Center ............................................. E5 16 Havana Club...............................................................B4 29 Garment District........................................................D3
3 MIT Museum..............................................................C4 17 Middlesex...................................................................C4 30 Weirdo Records.........................................................A3
4 Ray & Maria Stata Center........................................D4 18 Plough & Stars...........................................................A3
19 River Gods..................................................................A4 Ø Sports & Activities (p153)
ú Eating (p146) State Park .......................................................... (see 6) 31 Charles River Canoe & Kayak
5 Area Four ................................................................... D4 20 Voltage Coffee & Art................................................. F4 Center...................................................................... F4
6 Bon Me ....................................................................... D3 32 Community Ice Skating @
7 Café ArtScience ........................................................ F4 ý Entertainment (p150) Kendall Square ....................................................... F4
8 Emma's Pizza ............................................................ D3 21 Cantab Lounge..........................................................B3 Flat Top Johnny's.............................................. (see 6)
Friendly Toast.....................................................(see 6) 22 Improv Boston...........................................................B3
9 Hungry Mother.......................................................... D3 23 Landmark Kendall Square ÿ Sleeping (p187)
10 Life Alive..................................................................... B3 Cinema ....................................................................D3 33 Harding House...........................................................B3
11 Miracle of Science Bar & Grill.................................. C4 24 Lily Pad ....................................................................... C1 34 Hotel Marlowe............................................................G3
12 Toscanini's................................................................. C4 25 Middle East ................................................................B4 35 Kendall Hotel..............................................................E4
13 Veggie Galaxy............................................................ B4 26 Ryles Jazz Club .........................................................B2 36 Royal Sonesta............................................................G3
CENTR AL , kendall & INMAN SQUARES

253
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æ Sights (p157) 11 Coolidge Corner

1 John F Kennedy National Historic Site....B2 Theatre ..................................................... B3
2 Photographic Resource Center................D2 12 Great Scott...................................................A1
13 Paradise Rock Club.....................................C1
ú Eating (p158)
3 Bibim ............................................................ A1 þ Shopping (p161)
4 Fugakyu........................................................C3 14 Brookline Booksmith ................................. C3
5 Jo Jo TaiPei.................................................. A1 15 Eureka Puzzles ........................................... B3
6 Kupel's Bakery ............................................B2 16 Good Vibrations.......................................... B3
7 Michael's Deli...............................................C3
8 Shanghai Gate.............................................A2 ÿ Sleeping (p188)
9 Zaftigs Delicatessen...................................B3 17 Anthony's Town House..............................D3
18 Beech Tree Inn............................................C4
ý Entertainment (p161) 19 Bertram Inn ................................................. C3
10 Brighton Music Hall .................................... A1 20 Longwood Inn .............................................D4
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1 Olmsted Park............................................... A1 Brewery .................................................... C3
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2 Bella Luna Milky Way..................................C3 11 Boing!........................................................... B3
3 El Oriental de Cuba.....................................B2 12 Hatched ....................................................... B3
4 JP Licks ........................................................B3 13 On Centre .................................................... B4
5 Ten Tables ...................................................B3 14 Salmagundi ................................................. A4
6 Tres Gatos ...................................................B2
7 Vee Vee ........................................................A4 Ø Sports & Activities (p162)
15 Jamaica Pond ............................................. A3
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8 Brendan Behan Pub ................................... B1 ÿ Sleeping (p188)
9 Haven ........................................................... B1 16 Taylor House............................................... A3
Our Story
A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of
adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed
for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to
Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but
inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling
together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.
Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London,
Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief
that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Our Writer
Mara Vorhees
Born and raised in St Clair Shores, Michigan, Mara traveled the world (if not
the universe) before finally settling in the Hub. She spent several years pushing
papers and tapping keys at Harvard University, but has since embraced the life
of a full-time travel writer, covering destinations as diverse as Russia and Belize.
She lives in a pink house in Somerville, Massachusetts, with her husband, two
kiddies and two kitties. She is often seen eating doughnuts in Union Square and pedaling her bike
along the Charles River. The pen-wielding traveler is the author of Lonely Planet’s New England
and New England’s Best Trips, among other titles. Follow her adventures online at
www.havetwinswilltravel.com.
Read more about Mara at:
https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/mvorhees
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-
6th edition – Nov 2015 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about
ISBN 978 1 74321 006 2 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-
© Lonely Planet 2015 Photographs © as indicated 2015 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Printed in China
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic,
mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the
written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and
Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as
retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
A B C D E F G H J K L M N O P Q R S
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B Foster St P3 Surface Rd O5 Financial District O8
Clearway St C12 Franklin St N8-O8 W John Harvard Mall M1
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Bay State Rd A10 Columbus Ave Park St M7 North End O4 C5
Beach St M10-N10 Fulton St P5 Wadsworth St D5
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Bedford St N9 Kingston St N9 Paul Pl K12 Technology Make Way for NORTH
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Bent St E3-F3 Kneeland St M10 Phillips St J6 Theater District L10 J8
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Berkshire St B2 Pinckney St K7 West End K4 Library &
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Blackstone St O5 Congress St N6-R11 Greenough La P3 West Side Dr Q12 Acorn Street J7 HARVARD
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Blagden St F11 Constitution Rd N1 Grove St J6-K5 West St L8 All Saints Way P3 SQUARE
Lewis St P5 Providence St H10 Massachusetts State
Blossom St J4-K6 Cooper St O4 Westland Ave B12 Alpha Gallery H9 1 1 1
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Border St S2 Cornhill St N6 H Lincoln St A1; N10
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Branch St J7 Harbour Walk R8 Ridgeway La L6 Narrowest House O3 CENTRAL KENDALL WEST BOSTON
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Brimmer St H7 Hardwick St B2 River St J7 New England SQUARE SQUARE END
Bristol St A2 D Harris St P4
Winter St F1 Boston Children’s ALLSTON Logan
Main St A5-E5; M1 Rogers St D3 Museum Q10 Aquarium Q6 International
Broad St O7 Dalton St D11 Harrison Ave L12-M11 Maple Pl L11 Y DOWNTOWN
Rutherford Ave L1 Boston Common K8 New England Airport
Broadway A3-D4 Dartmouth Pl G12 Harvard St A3; L1; Marcella St B1 Holocaust
er
Riv BEACON HILL
Boston
Yarmouth St G12 Boston Massacre les Inner
Bromfield St M7 Dartmouth St M11 Marginal Rd H11-M11 S Memorial N6 C har Frog Harbor
York St B2 Monument L9
Byron St J8 F9-G11 Haverhill St M4 Marine Park Dr R9 New England Sports
Pond
S Russell St K6 Boston Massacre CHINATOWN
Davis St A4 Haviland St C12 Market St A3 Museum M3
C Salem St O4 Transportation Site N7 BRIGHTON BACK BAY VILLAGE SEAPORT
Derne St L6 Hawes St O7 Marlborough St Salt La N5 Boston Public Library New Old South BAY DISTRICT
Callahan Tunnel R3 Devens St L1 Hawkins St M5 C10-G9 School St N7 F10 Church F10 KENMORE
Cambria St C11 Devonshire St N8 Hawley St N8 Marney St B1 Sciarappa St E2 Metro Stations Boston Tea Party Nichols House Mu- SQUARE
Boston (see reverse)
Cambridge St E1-K6 Dock St C5 Hawthorne Pl K5 Martha Rd K3 BROOKLINE FENWAY
Scotia St C12 Aquarium P6 Ships & Museum seum K7 SOUTH
Canal St M4 Dorchester Ave N12 Hayward Pl L9 Mason St L9 Seaport Blvd R9 Arlington J9 P10 North End N4 END
Second St F2 Back Bay G11 Brewer Fountain L8 Old City Hall M7 ROXBURY
ston
lonelyplanet.com Seventh St D1 Bowdoin M6 Center Plaza M6 Old Corner CROSSING
lege BROOKLINE
Bookstore N7 SOUTH
Shawmut Ave K12 Boylston L9 Central Burying VILLAGE
ROXBURY BOSTON Pleasure
Images by Adina Tovy, Lou Jones, Richard Cummins, Kim Grant, Jean-Pierre Lescourret, Sheafe St O3 Charles/MGH J6 Ground K9 Old North Church O3 Bay
Brian D Cruickshank, Getty Images ©. Many thanks to the Sixth St D2 Chinatown L9 Charles Hayden Old Northern Ave Boston
following for the use of their content: MBTA Subway Map © 2015. Sleeper St Q10 Copley G10 Planetarium J3 Bridge Q8 JAMAICA Harbor
PLAIN
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PD

Your planning tool kit

c Family-friendly ste suites

Pet-friendly tr triple rooms

Bus tw twin rooms

For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend.

alle In den Ministergärten nnad Mohrenstr erw r

6 Platz am City Potsdamer Platz da 6

des Terrors Rudi-Dutschk

Sch Potsdamer r Waldeckpark

fer See map Ja See map

Askanischer ter p324

42-map-section-bln8.indd 314 23/11/2012

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Understand Boston 189

Survival Guide  207

Transportation............208 Directory A–Z...............213 Index..............................219

Boston Maps  227

RICH GAGNON/GETTY IMAGES ©

(right) Fenway Park p119

Art & Music Food

Why I Love Boston

Above: Public Garden (p69)

and swimming. Explore a 19th-century it – as indicated by the city’s flourishing

What’s so special about

nature, Walden; or, Life in the Woods.

2Day Trips from Boston

Beacon Hill (p67)

Edward M Kennedy Institute for Frost Ice Bar

Boston Public Market Late-night Transportation

New England Aquarium For more recommendations

PL A N YO U R TRI P N eed to K now

is humid but also -15/5 3/75

Arriving in Boston Getting Around Sleeping

PL A N YO U R TRI P T o p I tine r a r ies

Lunch Dine (with a view) at

you’re in the mood for a museum, the uni-

Cambridge (p138) temporary art. Don’t miss the amazing

JEFF MORSE/GETTY IMAGES ©

The Lexington Minuteman Statue on Battle Green, Lexington (p167)

a re-enactment of the battle

April Memorial Day, on the last

JIM ROGASH/GETTY IMAGES ©

On the Sunday prior to

Old South Meeting House

Institute of Contemporary Art

New England Aquarium

for its fiery preaching.

4. Granary Burying Ground

5. King’s Chapel &

6. Site of the First 11. Faneuil Hall

7. Old Corner Bookstore

10. Boston Massacre Site ¨¨ Distance 2.5 miles

LADDER Downtown nk lin St

15. USS Constitution

Lonely Planet’s Best by Cuisine Best for Kids

Scampo (p61) Italian food, as BarLola (p112) Packed with

Where to Dance ¨¨Kenmore Square & Fenway Overflowing with

Drink (p135) Let the mixologists

Publick House (p160) Thirty- Barking Crab (p133) Cold beers

Best for Best Bookstores

the teams’ websites. Otherwise, online

Lonely Planet’s Emerald Necklace (p158) Best Boat Rides

Charlestown . . . . . . . . 48 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 135

Understand Boston 189

Survival Guide 207

Boston Maps 227