MMS and Pets

For the old method of giving activated MMS to animals, and some people still use this method, is to
figure 3 drops of MMS per 25 pounds of weight for a dog, to 15 drops of acid (at the rate of 5 drops
acid to 1 drop MMS). For a cat it was always to use only 1 drop MMS to 5 drops acid. This is
allowed to sit for 3 minutes to activate, then was put into some food treat to mask the taste and smell.
Most animals didn’t seem to mind the AMMS, and rarely got vomiting or diarrhea on this protocol.
But—care must still be taken, and the animal watched, to see how they do react, because the sicker an
animal is, the more likely it is to get nauseated or have diarrhea on this protocol.

The newer method of giving 5% solution in the drinking water is a very safe and effective method.
It’s just that I have no personal healing experience in my animals with this, while I did have healing
experiences using the above—old—method in both my cats and my dogs.

Masses in Pets:
20 drops of MMS in 2 liters of water will give you a concentration of about 80 PPM available chlorine
dioxide with about 8 PPM of that as free chlorine dioxide. If you keep the bottle out of UV light there
should be no problem keeping that solution for a day

A friends dog developed a mass on the spleen. We used a 20 PPM available chlorine dioxide solution
activated with water for the dogs drinking water. After a few days of that concentration, we cut the
concentration back to 10 PPM.

In 5 weeks, the mass went away and has not returned in 1.5 years.

(I have 2 cats, an older cat with 2 tumors in her stomach and a younger cat with 1 tumor. This
was when we only knew about the original AMMS method. I mixed up the AMMS for cats and
put this into some tuna fish to give as a ‘treat’. The cats immediately ate it all. I gave this to
them twice a day for a week, morning and evening. Then I cut back to once a day. In 2 weeks
the tumor in one cat was gone, in the other cat the smaller tumor was gone and the larger tumor
shrunk to half size. In another 2 weeks the last tumor was gone—Renee)

>>I just found out my dog has kidney cancer or at least a mass on his kidney. It is huge and they
think the other kidney isn't working properly<<

The goal in this case is to try to oxidate the cancer at the kidney.

Let me throw out a little different approach and you will have to decide what you are going to do.

I would suggest that you take a liter bottle of water and add 17 drops of MMS to it. Use a syringe and
give your dog some of that 4 times the first day, then 3 times the second day, then twice a day after
that until you use it all up.

A problem will be keeping the dog hydrated, so you may have to give plain water also.
This method allows chlorite to build up in the organs, and if it comes into contact with the cancer, it
may slow it down or kill it.

I haven't tried this with dogs, but we have used it with cats that were dying from kidney
issues. The acid activated solution only seemed to prolong life for 3 - 4 days, but the water
activated solution stretched it out to 22 days. Still a failure in my book, rather than a cure, but
there was a general improvement in health during those days, and the owners were pleased with
the results.

The problem, as I see it, is that as an animal nears death their whole system gets out of balance. You
end up juggling everything trying to keep them going. With several balls in the air, it is easy to drop
one.

With the cats we are using 10CC at a time. It takes a while to get it down, but just take the time
needed.

Ringworm:
We have had excellent results by simply using the standard sanitizing spray.

Put 10 ml of 5% sodium chlorite into a glass and add 10 ml of 10% citric acid. Let the solution
activate for 10 minutes, then add enough water to make a total of 500 ml. Next add 1/8 teaspoon of
baking soda.

Take a paper towel the size of the infected area and saturate it with the solution. Apply the saturated
paper towel and keep it in place for 5 - 10 minutes. The remove the paper towel and spray the area
with the solution and let it air dry.

You want to do this 3 - 4 times a day.

Or:

On the animals, or people..., simply spray it on and let it air dry. 3 - 4 applications the first day will
bring things under control, then you can drop off to once or twice a day. It may take a week to totally
get rid if it.

On the soil you need to spray it on after the sun goes down and not when it is raining. I have not
tested all species of grass, but on our natural grass it does not effect it. If there is a concern about that,
try a test area first.
KILLING FLEAS OUTSIDE:
>>>Wondering if fogging with the 2% solution would be beneficial as an outdoor flea control spray, if
applied regularly say once a week? Flea larvae are susceptible to many things, but the dang eggs are
rather hard to destroy and they are so tiny, and I read somewhere impervious to water (don't know how
true that is).<<<

2% is used as a stock solution. It is too strong to use in a fogger. Stick to the 0.1% strength for
fogging.

Fogging with stabilized chlorine dioxide is used to control microbials. There is a residual left after
fogging. As moisture, in the form of humidity, keeps the solution from drying out, it will release trace
amounts of chlorine dioxide as it encounters microbes that are slightly acidic. I am not sure where flea
eggs fit into this, but it may be worth a test to try it out.

That should work fine, but it may be too strong a solution depending on how open the area you are
fogging is. You may want to start with half strength and work up from there.

Put sodium chlorite into the measuring device and add enough water to make a total of 100 ml. 0.1% is
the recommended concentration for chicken coops. If your target area is a drafty as a chicken coop, go
with the 0.1% strength. However, this is too strong for areas inside a house.

To find the PPM of a percentage solution you simply multiply the percent by 1 million. With 0.1% we
have 0.001 X 1000000 = 1000. A 0.1% solution of sodium chlorite has 1000 PPM available chlorine
dioxide.

To make 2% sodium chlorite from 22.4% sodium chlorite, you have to dilute it. To make 100 ml of
2%, place 8.9 ml of 22.4% sodium. Add enough water to make 200ml of liquid to make a 0.1%
solution.

We have had wonderful results with ducks and chicks doing that very same thing. The 1000 PPM
available chlorine dioxide solution is a little strong for an enclosed space, but if there is plenty of
ventilation, it is the way to go. In a more tightly closed space we use 500 PPM.

Oxine is a commercially available 2% sodium chlorite solution. If you can't get that you can make the
1000 PPM solution from a 5% sodium chlorite solution.

Using 5% sodium chlorite you would put 33.3 ml of the 5% sodium chlorite into a container and add
enough water to make 1 liter. If you want to use 22.4% sodium chlorite, you would use 7.4 ml. To
make the 500 PPM available chlorine dioxide solution just cut the amounts used in half.
FOR CLEANING DOG’S EARS:
Be careful when handling the 22.4% solution (MMS) and let me give you directions using that
concentration.

Put 2.25 ml of 22.4% sodium chlorite in a glass and add 2.25 ml of 10% citric acid. 1/2 teaspoon = 2.5
ml.

Let's start again...

Put 1/2 teaspoon of the 22.4% sodium chlorite in a glass and add 1/2 teaspoon of 10% citric
acid. Swirl to mix and let it activate for 10 minutes. Add this to enough water to make a total of 500
ml (16 ounces will also work).

To use this, turn the dogs head to the side so the ear is facing the ceiling. Pour a little of the solution
into the ear. You need just enough to fill the ear canal. Hold the head steady for 30 - 60 seconds, if
you can, then the dog should shake her head and spray the solution all over. :) Tip her head to the
other side and repeat.

It is probably best to do this outside, if you can.

You only use as much as is needed to fill the ear canal, and the rest will last for the next treatment.

You can pour straight from the bottle, use a saturated cotton ball, or use a syringe. A spray bottle is
ideal, but dogs think it makes too much noise and they don't like it.

To make 5% sodium chlorite from 22.4% sodium chlorite you need to put 22.3 ml of the 22.4%
sodium chlorite in a measuring device and add enough water to make a total of 100 ml. You will now
have a total of 100 ml of 5% sodium chlorite.

I have had excellent success using this mix for ear problems.

In a glass put 10 ml of 5% sodium chlorite with 10 ml of 10% citric acid. Swirl to mix and let it
activate for 10 minutes. Next add enough water to make a total of 500 ml.

Pour this into the ear and try for a hold time of 30 - 60 seconds.

Twice a day for 2 - 3 days should clear things up, but in stubborn cases or with very short hold times,
you may have to go for a whole week.

Once mixed up, this solution will keep for several weeks if it is stored out of UV light.

I mix up 500 ml at a time and end up using it in 2 - 3 weeks. I have never run a test to verify the 8
week storage time, but I should do that. I have tested the general disinfectant solution after 3 weeks
and it is still going strong. I have some activated solutions that I am experimenting with that are still
working as designed after 6 months on the shelf. While this is a non typical activation, it does
demonstrate that these solutions can remain viable for long periods of time.

DRINKING WATER FOR PETS:

Most of the time I feel that I am just scratching the surface with this stuff, but we have had some
pleasant successes. That is enough to keep me going.

This solution is designed to improve the blood oxygen levels in the dog. This allows the dog's
immune system to kick in a little stronger and sometimes that helps defeat the disease.

Needless to say, the measurements are critical, so take care to measure properly. We have not found
any complications when using this solution while trying other treatments, so the only thing you have to
watch for is any signs of distress which usually manifests itself as mild diarrhea.

We are still "tweaking" the formula, so there are no guarantees.

You will need a container that will hold a gallon of water, a way to accurately measure a gallon, and a
1/8 teaspoon measuring spoon.

In 1 gallon of water, add 1/8 teaspoon of the 22.4% sodium chlorite (MMS).

Give your dog this water to drink. Let her drink as much as she wants. She will naturally find the
proper amount to drink.

It takes about 2 weeks for this to kick into full gear, but improvements are usually noticed within the
first week.

We don't fully understand how this works, but the best guess, so far, is that the sodium chlorite in the
water becomes activated by the acid in the dogs stomach. This allows the release of a small amount of
chlorine dioxide which is absorbed into the blood stream quickly changing to chlorite. The chlorite
acts like a free radical that oxidizes iron in the blood, and kills the weaker red blood cells. This
stimulates the production of new red blood cells which seem to stimulate the immune system. The
new red blood cells are better able to carry oxygen in the blood, and somehow new iron is absorbed
from diet. The blood oxygen levels increase as a result of the influx of healthy red blood cells.

It takes about 2 days to reduce the chlorite levels by half, so the during the first few days the chlorite
levels are building, then things level out. After about a week you should expect to observe
improvement. Keep a journal and make a point of paying close attention.

As soon as you see an improvement after about a week, cut the amount of sodium chlorite you are
adding in half. This is very important. We only want enough oxidation to get things going. We don't
want to chance continuing to do oxidative damage.
The gallon of water will initially have a concentration of about 22 PPM available chlorine
dioxide. Activation begins in the gallon container and continues in the stomach. The initial oxidation
will result in a period of tiredness and increased sleep. Then things should turn around and you should
see a burst of energy. This is when you need to reduce the amount of sodium chlorite you are adding.

To review:

Start with a concentration of 22 PPM available chlorine dioxide. Use this strength for about a week.

Next cut the concentration back to about 11 PPM available chlorine dioxide. You can continue to use
this strength for about 3 weeks.

After about a month you need to cut the concentration in half again. This will bring you down to
about 6 PPM available chlorine dioxide. This strength is good for long term use.

Most illnesses go through up and down periods. It is important to document these phases. If it looks
like things are slipping downhill, you will need to start over again with the 22 PPM available chlorine
dioxide strength.

Initially, we were only using the medium strength solution, but the vet I am working with on this
suggested going a little stronger initially, then backing down. With the medium strength solution the
progress is slow and steady, but the animal has to be able to maintain life over a 2 - 3 month period in
order for it to work. Often this is not a problem, but at other times things can digress quickly.

Please understand that this is a "work in progress,"

If you use activated MMS, you would be better off activating it with a 1:1 ratio. This produces a
solution that has more oxidation potential, and is not as strong an acid so it will be easier on the cats
internals. For example you would put 1 drop of MMS in a glass and add 1 drop of 10% citric
acid. The activation time for this ratio is extended out to 10 minutes. Then you can add some water
and add it to the cats food.

In addition you can put some sodium chlorite into the cats drinking water and just let the cat drink it
throughout the day. In a 1 liter bottle you can add something like 5 drops of MMS and just fill the
water dish from that bottle. This is a more gradual approach, but it does work. However, if time is
short you may want to start with the activated MMS and then when you have more time switch.
40 drops of 5% sodium chlorite in a gallon of water gives you a concentration of about 15 PPM
available chlorine dioxide.

If the pets have health issues, start them on 2.5 ml of 5% per gallon of water. You use this for a few
weeks before dropping down. By the way, 2.5 ml = 1/2 teaspoon...
After a few weeks, use 2.5 ml of 5% per 2 gallons of water.

In normal maintenance use you would use 2.5 ml of 5% per 4 gallons of water. A smaller batch would
be 0.625 ml of 5% in 1 gallon of water. The acid in the dog’s stomach will activate the sodium
chlorite.

I rounded that up to 22.5 ml to accommodate those who do not have access to a syringe and are trying
to measure using measuring spoons. 22.5 ml = 1 Tablespoon + 1 teaspoon + 1/2 teaspoon. However,
the accurate measurement would be 22.32 ml.

You would put 22.32 ml MMS into a measuring device and add enough water to make a total of 100
ml. Now you have 100 ml of 5% sodium chlorite.

If we want some 2.5% sodium chlorite, and are starting out with 5% sodium chlorite the ratio is
simple. Put half of the amount you want to end up with as 5% sodium chlorite and add water as the
other half. You end up with 2.5% sodium chlorite.

Adding 0.625 ml (1/8 teaspoon) of MMS to 1 gallon of water will give you a good drinking solution
for your pets. This solution has enough chlorine dioxide in it to keep slime and algae from forming on
the water dish, and there will be a little left over to help the pets with any issues they may have.

If you are trying to disinfect a cut or irritation, spray it on and let it air dry.

If you are looking for odor control, you can either spray it on and wipe it off, or let it air dry.

If you are attacking a specific infection, you spray it on and wipe it off. If the infection is killed off,
you are good to go. If not, spray some more on and let it air dry this time.

I guess most of the time you should spray it on and let it air dry, but it is OK to wipe it off too.

Keep in mind that chlorine dioxide kills by having a concentration of it in contact with the pathogen
for a period of time. It is always good to wait a few minutes before wiping it off. However, if you
wait too long, it will air dry...

1/8 teaspoon = 0.625 ml. 1 gallon = 3.8 liters. 0.625 ml of 22.4% sodium chlorite in 3.8 liters of
water will give you about 22 PPM available chlorine dioxide.

We have one case right now that is only a partial success. We are working with a dog that is 16 years
old and has been hit by a car and run over by a car in his younger years. The dog is having a difficult
time moving his hind quarters. A couple of months ago, he would just lay down and sleep all the time,
sometimes not even getting up to relieve himself. A couple of months after adding some sodium
chlorite to his drinking water, he is alert, talkative, but still is having problems with his hind
quarters. I don't know if we can get the hind quarters to function closer to normal, but the owner is
thrilled with the improvements, and that is good enough for me.

We have had good luck with animals using 0.625 ml of 5% sodium chlorite in 1 gallon of water. This
results in about 5 PPM available chlorine dioxide and is great at keeping the slime and algae from
forming in the water dish. At about double that concentration, many animals have shown
improvement, but specifically older animals.

When giving this to animals we just put the water in their water dish and let them drink as much as
they need.

External use is better developed and defined. Mix up 10 ml of 5% sodium chlorite in a glass and add
10 ml of 10% citric acid. Swirl to stir and let this activate for 10 minutes. Next put this into a spray
bottle and add 500 ml of water. This spray solution can be used externally for a variety of
applications. It also works great for ear infections with water dogs. An ear infection can be cleared up
in a couple of days, even the ones that don't respond to antibiotics.

This solution can also be used to disinfect cages and bedding areas.

The 11 PPM solution is slow and steady. We stumbled upon this because we had some dogs that
"trashed" their water dish and the 6 PPM solution wasn't strong enough to keep the biofilm out of the
dish. Someone (in this case it wasn't me) had the brilliant idea to double the concentration of available
chlorine dioxide and so we tried that.

This water bucket was shared among several dogs and the oldest dog slept a lot and didn't drink much
water. After a couple of months we noticed that the oldest dog was spending a lot of time playing with
the younger dogs. Thinking this was rather remarkable, we then backtracked to figure out what we
had done.

At these lower concentrations, a diet rich in anti oxidants should be able to take care of the free
radicals and any oxidative stress. At least this is what the Vets I have discussed this with tell me. The
longest data I have on this is just over a year and a half and the dogs are doing fine. While this is not
conclusive, I view it as a very strong starting point.

The 6 PPM solution is pretty much used up by evaporation, UV light, and biofilm.

>>>A friend of mine, who has a devoted companion German Shepherd, is distraught as she is
watching this magnificent animal die from a disease transmitted by this parasite. There is no

known cure and now his kidneys are failing (a common side effect as the disease progresses).
Leishmaniasis (Sand Fly parasitic invasion)<<<<
I would offer two suggestions for consideration.

1. In a gallon jug of water add 0.625 ml (1/8 teaspoon) of 22.4% sodium chlorite (MMS) and give the
dog that water to drink, and let him drink as much as he wants.

2. In a glass put 5 ml of 22.4% sodium chlorite and add 5 ml of 10% citric acid. Swirl to mix and let
it activate for 10 minutes. Put this into a 1 liter spray bottle and fill with water. Add 1/8 teaspoon of
baking soda and mix it in. You are basically going to give the dog a spray bath with this. Spray it on,
rub it in, and let it dry. Repeat several times during the day. In this case the chlorine dioxide/chlorous
acid will penetrate the skin and get into the blood stream.

An oral dose may kick start things, but I would limit it to once or twice a day and only for a day or
two. I am not sure this is a good way to go though, because of the failing kidneys.

I have only been able to keep the 60 PPM free chlorine dioxide solution for about 3 weeks. I end up
using it all up in about that amount of time. It is supposed to be good for 7 - 8 weeks as long as you
keep it away from UV light.

I use the 60 PPM "general" solution for cuts and scrapes and it supposed to be good for 7 - 8 weeks,
but as I mentioned before, I tend to use it all up in under a month.

Don't get me wrong, this is not a "stable" solution. It just has enough strength to keep working over an
extended period of time.

When water is used to activate the sodium chlorite, only trace amounts of chlorine dioxide are
released. These solutions are PH neutral and are safe for teeth. 4 days is impressive. However, we
didn't really keep track of the time but just noticed that the dogs teeth were cleaner. Someday I will
have to do a formal test on that.

One exception, in my opinion, is pets ears. It is hard to hold a weaker concentration in the pets ear for
the amount of time needed to have it work. I prefer to use a stronger solution realizing that it has to
work in 10 - 30 seconds. I think that is a better and speedier way to go, but if you keep at it long
enough you can achieve success using the weaker solution.

The water is what is used to activate this solution, so no additional acid is added.
There are several levels of this.

One level involves storing emergency water. To keep biofilm and algae from forming in stored water
you need 5 PPM available chlorine dioxide. In 1 liter of water add 0.17 ml of 5% sodium chlorite to
achieve 5 PPM. I usually round it up to 0.2 ml and that gives a concentration of 6 PPM. I use a 1 ml
syringe to measure this amount.

Pet water has more demand on it. Saliva from the mouth, and food that drops into the water add
bacteria to the water and at the end of the day you can find slime building up on the sides of the water
dish. We have had good results doubling the concentration of chlorine dioxide used for storage. In 1
liter of water add 0.4 ml of 5% sodium chlorite.

When pets are ill, a stronger concentration is often beneficial. Doubling the pet water concentration
has worked out very well. This should be looked at as first aid. It is not for long term use. In 1 liter
of water add 0.8 ml of 5% sodium chlorite. This results in a 24 PPM available chlorine dioxide
concentration. This is used for 1 - 4 weeks, and then you drop down to the normal pet water
solution. There are no hard rules on this, so you have to monitor your pet and adjust accordingly.

Over the last 40 years, or perhaps longer, people have used "stabilized oxygen" products. There are
many success stories from people using these products. A lot of these products were 3.5% sodium
chlorite. When you evaluate the amounts of "stabilized oxygen" used, you find that they are similar to
what is being used with pets.

As far as the water dishes go, stainless is fine. Mix up 0.625 ml (1/8 teaspoon) of the 22.4% sodium
chlorite in 2 gallons of water. Fill the pet water dishes from this solution.

With water dishes we have been mixing the solution by the gallon and then just adding it to the water
dish as necessary.

Start off using 0.625 ml (1/8 teaspoon) of the 22.4% sodium chlorite in 1 gallon of water. After about
a month of that strength, cut it in half. The easiest way to cut this in half is to have 2 containers that
hold a gallon each. Mix up the gallon, then pour half of it into the other container. Finally fill both
containers up and you will end up with 2 gallons of water at half the concentration.

The shelf life of this water is about 5 years if you keep it away from UV light.

I prefer to use the much safer to handle 5% concentration of sodium chlorite. This allows you to mix a
liter at a time which I find is easier for me.

When you put this water out, your pets will drink as much as they need, so you don't have to worry
about how much they weigh.
>>>While Ive got you here I was wondering if I make up the solution of ~ In 1 gallon of water, add
1/8 teaspoon of the 22.4% sodium chlorite (MMS). Does it matter that I am using well water for this?
Also once mixed up how long before I should use it up or throw it out and start fresh? Also in your
experience is this the only water given to the dog or would there also be just regular water available as
well.<<<

Well water is fine, and you have to use the gallon you make up before 5 years has passed... :) It keeps
fine.

We have been using this as the only water the animals drink. This strength is strong for long term use,
but should be fine for a month or two. After that, cut it in half.

We have used this with older dogs that were beginning to "stiffen up." The progress is gradual, but
you should see results in 4 - 5 weeks. At that time, you cut the dose in half. We have been amazed
with the results. It is almost acting like an anti aging agent. I haven't quite figured out why and how
this works, but it seems to be helping the immune system clear out the crap in the body.

We have only used this with dogs, cats, goats, sheep, cows, horses, and chickens so far. It is too early
to make a claim, but in most cases they seem to end up more youthful. I have no idea if it would be
effective for lyme or a lung tumor. People with lyme have tried pulsing with this solution and have
anecdotally reported improvement, but no cures. The pulse rate is 4 weeks on and 2 weeks off.

Several people have reported the side effect of having the tartar and plaque on dogs teeth
basically fall off... I am also not sure how that works, because there isn't a lot of acid in a dogs
mouth to activate the solution. I guess we can live with this side effect.

Dogs have a decent amount of acid in their digestive system. This solution is actually a weak form of
chlorous acid. When it is swallowed, the stomach acid will react with it and it will begin to release
some of the available chlorine dioxide. You are starting with around 22 PPM available chlorine
dioxide. This is strong enough to clear some of the bad stuff out, yet not too strong to cause adverse
effects. However, I always recommend that you watch for loose stools, and adjust the concentration
accordingly.

Now, if your dogs come down with ear infections, we have had remarkable results with using an
activated sodium chlorite solution, buffered to a near neutral PH. We had one dog that almost
died. He had an ear infection that was resistant to antibiotics. The Vet put the camera in the ear and
reported that the eardrum was shredded. It was just a matter of time before the infection got into the
dogs brain. The ears had been packed with antibiotics three times and the infection just progressed.

The dogs owner approached me with tears in her eyes. She loved her dog and didn't want him to
die. What was really great was that the Vet had typed the bacteria that was causing the
infection. When I looked up the CT value to kill off that bacteria, I discovered that it was actually a
wimp and could be easily killed.
I instructed the owner on the safety aspects of these chemicals and then on how to mix up a solution to
use. I expected quick results, but was surprised that it took about a week before the discharge from the
ear was clear. The Vet monitored the progress and was amazed at how well things healed up. He told
me that in addition to the bacteria there was also a yeast infection in the ear. Since I was only geared
up to kill the bacteria, it took longer to kill the combination. It took about 2 months for the eardrum to
completely heal, and the dog is doing fine a year later.

While this is a remarkable healing, we have also eliminated "poodle ear" from several dogs and
stopped many minor ear infections.

We had one dog that found a dead goat and proceeded to roll in the mess. We gave the dog one bath
with some sodium chlorite added to the soap and ended up with a neutral odor dog. He remained odor
neutral until the next day when he found some cow pies to roll in... The "enhanced" soap solution also
worked for that, but I think the dog as something missing from his diet.

SODIUM CHLORITE FOR BIRDS AND FISH:

I forgot to mention that we have also had very good results using sodium chlorite with house birds and
aquarium fish.

House birds seem to be able to get mild poisoning from chewing on their cages. I think new cages are
OK, but we had someone that had a large galvanized cage. The birds would do fine at first, then drop
dead. Since we started treating with sodium chlorite, the birds have been doing fine. In birds it
appears that sodium chlorite chelates the metals out of the body, and acts like a preventative against
future incidents.

The fish tanks remain algae free and the water remains crystal clear. Plants thrive and the fish remain
free from infection.

Finally, we end up with deer in our yard. One of the deer has mange in the coat. I put out a water
bucket with some sodium chlorite in it thinking that the deer would take a drink and maybe it would
clear up the coat. The squirrels, raccoons, possums, and stray cats appear to all be very healthy, but
the deer's coat hasn't improved. I am thinking that I may have to catch him and give him a bath... :)

KENNEL COUGH:
I have had a little experience with kennel cough. We fogged the whole area with a solution that had
500 PPM available chlorine dioxide and was not activated. Then we activated enough to cover the
bottom of a cake pan and left that on a shelf in the area with the dogs.

It took a couple of days, but the results were very good.

The caution is with the activated solution. If you can detect the chlorine dioxide odor, the
concentration is too high. You want chlorine dioxide in the air at a concentration just below what you
can detect.

I always go the extra step of disinfecting bedding, water dishes, cages, and so on thinking that if any of
the pathogens are lurking, we want to get rid of them to avoid re-infection.

>>One thing I forgot to ask is - when used as a skin wash for animals, does MMS dry out, discolour or
bleach the coat?<<<

At the concentration of the solution I provided, there should be no bleaching. I believe cotton has
about the lowest concentration needed for bleaching and it begins to be bleached at about 300 PPM of
free chlorine dioxide. The solution I use has about 60 PPM free chlorine dioxide, so there is a good
margin of safety.

With that said, I think it would be prudent to try it out on a small area that is not so noticeable at
first. If you have a problem, be sure to let me know and I will adjust the recommendation.

When you mix an acid with sodium chlorite you form chlorous acid. The chlorous acid solution will
have some free chlorine dioxide in it. When you apply this to a surface, the free chlorine dioxide is
used up, and the chlorous acid with the rest of the available chlorine dioxide is held in solution as it
dries on the surface. The next time it becomes hydrated, more of the available chlorine dioxide is
released as free chlorine dioxide. This process continues until all of the available chlorine dioxide is
used up.

It acts like a timed release product.

This works great for odor control.

NOTES FROM RENEE:

As I stated, I removed tumors in my cats’ stomachs. I have no idea if the tumors were cancerous or
not as I did not get them tested. The cats seem to be eating fine and didn’t seem sick.

I did the same thing for my old dog, who was slowing down. The AMMS in tuna was given to him
and he did get a lot more energy, and his eyes, which had started to become cloudy, cleared up.
Eventually, as they got well, I took them off the AMMS. The results have lasted a year later.