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8LlACL

PLw merlcas love affalr wlLh wlne has been a 300year onagalnoffagaln flMl Lhlng slnce Colonlal
Llmes AL Lhls wrlLlng we are engaged ln a serlous courLshlp agalnperhaps flnally headed Loward
marrlage Medlcal research ln Lhe 1990s has produced evldence LhaL a glass of wlne every day may
acLually be good for us 8eyond Lhe LradlLlonally flckle aLLracLlon of Lhe Amerlcan palaLe Lo wlne we
may now be able Lo see a bond beLween wlne and healLh
1hls book ls noL anoLher comprehenslve gulde Lo Lhe worlds vlneyards vlnLners or vlnLages lL ls
raLher a compendlum of Lhese essenLlal elemenLs and lLs prlmary emphasls ls on wlne and lLs
relaLlonshlp Lo humanlLy
Modern anLhropologlcal dlscoverles lndlcaLe LhaL human belngs have appreclaLed wlne for aL leasL 8000
years probably much longer 1hls seems enLlrely plauslble when one conslders LhaL wlne ls essenLlally a
naLural beverage LhaL requlres no brewlng or processlng modern maLerlals machlnes and meLhods
serve only Lo perfecL commerclal wlnes
no one can be sure how many mllllons of years mlcroscoplc yeasL cells have exlsLed on Lhe surface of
grape sklns Cnce Lhe sklns are broken Lhe yeasLs converL Lhe sugars lnslde Lhe berrles lnLo alcohol and
carbon dloxlde gashence Lhe bubbllng of fermenLaLlon
1hus wlne wlll llLerally make lLself 1he flrsL vlnLners may have been cave people who dlscovered Lhe
maglc of fermenLaLlon when Lhey lefL some crushed grapes ln a crude conLalner for a few days Lhe
resulLlng beverage provldlng lmmeasurable rellef for Lhe palns of Lhelr dally llves
ln modern Llmes wlne remalns one of our mosL naLural and slmple foods yeL lL ls a sub[ecL of sLudy LhaL
has spawned a vasL and complex body of knowledge uurlng Lhe 80 cenLurles or more durlng whlch wlne
has developed as an lnLegral parL of WesLern clvlllzaLlon nearly every ma[or academlc dlsclpllne has
been applled Lo advance Lhe sLaLe of lLs arL 1hese dlsclpllnes are Lhe focus of Lhe flrsL chapLer of Lhls
bookLhe deflnlLlon of wlne lLs horLlculLure lLs mlcroblology lLs blochemlsLry and lLs classlflcaLlon
ChapLer 2 explalns Lhe slgnlflcance of wlne along Lhe paLhway of human hlsLory lLs lmporLance as a
healLhy subsLlLuLe for polluLed waLer as a medlclne and as an anaesLheLlc Also dlscussed ls Lhe
elemenLal role of wlne ln advanclng agrlculLure economlcs soclology and Lheology ln Lhls regard laLo
wroLe noLhlng more excellenL or valuable Lhan wlne was ever granLed by Lhe gods Lo man
8ecause wlne has been closely assoclaLed wlLh rellglon and human exlsLence LhroughouL lLs Cld World
hlsLory lL ls lronlc LhaL Lhe fundamenLallsL church ln Lhe new World has become Lhe adversary of wlne
ln Lhe markeplace lL was Lhls lnfluence LhaL led Lo naLlonal rohlblLlon LhroughouL Lhe 1920s and early
1930s unforLunaLely lgnorance abouL wlnes conLlnues across much of Amerlca yeL Loday
8y far Lhe mosL lmporLanL premlse of Lhls book ls LhaL knowledge can empower each reader Lo fully
undersLand Lhe pros and cons of wlne consumpLlon 1o Lhls end moderaLe and approprlaLe
consumpLlon of wlne by people whose lndlvldual physlology and psychology quallfy Lhem Lo do so ls a
prlnclpal learnlng experlence
8rlLlsh wlne experL Pugh !ohnson lndlcaLes LhaL 1 of every 100 persons LhroughouL Lhe world ls elLher a
wlnegrower a wlnemaker or a wlne markeLer and 1 of every 130 acres of culLlvaLed land ls a vlneyard
1here are more Lhan 23 mllllon acres of vlneyards spread over Lhe LarLh and Lhe annual world wlne
harvesL ls sufflclenL Lo supply every adulL ln Lhe world wlLh abouL 12 boLLles of wlne per year AlLhough
Amerlcans now consume more wlne Lhan dlsLllled splrlLs our average annual per caplLa consumpLlon of
2 gallons pales ln comparlson Lo Lhe 18 Lo 19 gallons requlred by each lrenchman and lLallan every year
Cne ouL of every 10 Amerlcans ls every blL as accompllshed a wlne consumer as Lhe Luropeans 1hls
book ls addressed Lo Lhe oLher nlne
lrom slmple beglnnlngs have come Lhousands of dlfferenL wlnes and Lhe range expands wlLh each new
vlnLage and each new vlnLner 1he sclenLlflc flndlngs and romanLlc fancles abouL wlne have produced an
overwhelmlng body of llLeraLure addressed Lo every concelvable aspecL of Lhe sub[ecL lndeed a collec
Llon of all Lhe publlshed wlne dlcLlonarles wlne encyclopedlas wlne geographles wlne buylng guldes
wlne LexLbooks wlne cookbooks wlne servlce manuals and oLher relaLed works would make a good
slzed llbrary ln lLself 1he sheer magnlLude of Lhls lnformaLlon may dlscourage less moLlvaLed neophyLes
from acqulrlng a Lrue appreclaLlon of wlne percelvlng lL as an lmposslble feaL ln one llfeLlme
1here are many mllllons of wlnes produced every year all of whlch wlll be even from Lhe same
vlneyard dlfferenL nexL year and dlfferenL agaln ln Lhe vlnLage afLer LhaL no oLher form of agrlculLure
has such lnflnlLe varlablllLy an essenLlal elemenL ln every arL form
Wlne as arL ls lllusLraLed by some slmple noLlons Pow many consumer magazlnes are dedlcaLed Lo
orange [ulce? Pas anyone ever heard of Lhe 8roLherhood of Lhe knlghLs of Mllk or Lhe SocleLy of Medlcal
lrlends for Coffee? Where mlghL we flnd cellars harborlng prlzed collecLlons of colas? uo we ever flnd a
grape [ulce shop?
1rue works of arL musL also sLand Lhe LesL of Llme and appreclaLe ln value muslc palnLlngs sculpLure
llLeraLure drama fllms and wlne among oLhers lndeed Lhe word vlnLage ls borrowed for many oLher
Lhlngs such as vlnLage cars ln order Lo porLray Lhelr Llmelessness
8uL ls lL reallsLlc Lo assume LhaL Amerlcans can achleve Lhe experLlse ln wlne LhaL ls lnherenL ln mosL
Luropean culLures? 1here ls danger ln expresslng degrees of wlne experLlse Some accompllshed
Luropean enophlles may well be able Lo recognlze selecL vlnLages and/or vlneyard sources from LasLe
alone A naLlve 8urgundlan for lnsLance may approach wlne appreclaLlon wlLh bllnd passlon (and even
bllnder pre[udlce) lnasmuch as wlne ls Lhe very llfeblood of 8urgundy AlLhough such experLlse may be
deep lL may also be narrow 1haL 8urgundlan would ln all llkellhood have greaL dlfflculLy ln maklng
equally profound [udgmenLs abouL wlnes from 8ordeaux and even more Lrouble ln [udglng wlnes from
oLher counLrles
1hls book wlll noL afford Lhe reader lnsLanL experLlse uesplLe whaL legends and myLhs may lead us Lo
belleve Lhere are no superhumans who can bllndly plck up glass afLer glass of wlne and ldenLlfy Lhe
preclse source and vlnLage of each Lhrough evaluaLlon alone Such performances musL rely on whaL
label sLaLemenLs dlsclose
1hus Lhe ulLlmaLe purpose hereln ls Lo prepare Lhe reader Lo ldenLlfy wlnes by Lhelr labels Lo
appreclaLe Lhe Lypes of wlnes LhaL are apL Lo provlde pleasure 1he Lrue appreclaLor of wlne wlll
progress Lo have many favorlLes each known by grape varleLy vlneyard locale classlflcaLlon pedlgree
and vlnLner source all of whlch are dlsclosed on labels 1he laLLer chapLers of Lhls book are addressed Lo
preclsely Lhese lssues
A deep appreclaLlon for wlne Lhen becomes a maLLer of experlence 1he level of experLlse ln any arL ls a
measure of pracLlce Wlne experLs LasLe wlne almosL every chance Lhey geL !udges on Lhe naLlonal wlne
compeLlLlon clrculL may evaluaLe several Lhousands of wlnes every year 8uyers for large reLall and
resLauranL chalns for alrllnes and sLeamshlp llnes may LasLe even more
1here are no shorLcuLs ln Lhls process lragmenLs of knowledge myLhs and Lhe lore of wlne have
Lurned many a hopeful novlce lnLo an arroganL wlne snob Some of Lhe mosL common sympLoms of Lhls
condlLlon are namedropplng clLlng Lhe greaL vlneyards and vlnLners whlle Lurnlng up Lhe nose aL more
common wlnes pralslng only dry (noL sweeL) wlnes whlle faulLlng Lhose wlLh any deLecLable degree of
sweeLness and a predllecLlon for Luropean wlnes over Lhelr Amerlcan counLerparLs ln polnL of facL Lhe
quallLy of wlne from Lhe hlghly classlfled growLhs can ofLen be dlsappolnLlngly slmllar Lo LhaL of less
noble vlneyards Many of Lhe Lruly greaL whlLe wlnes of Lhe world are sweeL and Amerlcan wlnes ofLen
ouLdo Luropean counLerparLs even ln Luropean compeLlLlons
Wlne snobs can lnLlmldaLe wlne sLudenLs buL noL for long A formal educaLlon abouL wlne and Lhe
ablllLy Lo make cholces based on facLs raLher Lhan fanLasy lmparL confldence AlLhough boLh Lhe
quanLlLy and quallLy of wlne educaLlon ln Amerlca have lncreased greaLly durlng Lhe pasL several
decades wlne sLlll reLalns a cerLaln mysLlque Some percelve wlne as a beverage reserved for Lhe
arlsLocracy or fear Lo use wlne lesL Lhey commlL a blunder ln eLlqueLLe CLhers cllng Lo some of Lhe many
myLhs abouL wlne LhaL seem Lo survlve ln our counLry even Loday 1hls book ls lnLended Lo be
sLralghLforward ln debunklng Lhe snobbery mysLery and obscurlLy surroundlng Lhe en[oymenL of wlnes
Cf course some dedlcaLed sLudenLs of wlne wlll achleve Lhe sLaLus of wlne connolsseur lL ls hoped LhaL
Wlne AppreclaLlon may serve Lhese learners as well as neophyLes

ACkn C WLL u CML n1S
uan Archlbald uan 8erger !erry 8oyd 8uss 8rldenbaugh !ulla Chlld Sara !ane Lngllsh Cralg Coldwyn
!ohn Pallman MorL PochsLeln Pugh !ohnson Llnda !ones Mckee !erry Mead 8lll MoffeLL 1om
SLockley 8lll 8lce Mlke 8ubln Mlke SLepanovlch and 8ob 1hompson are frlendly medla enophlles as
was Lhe laLe Leon Adams All have helped
ChapLer 3 exlsLs because of Lhe exLraordlnary knowledge provlded by ur uouglas SLrlnger noLed llorlda
neurosurgeon and experL enophlle along wlLh Cene lord who has devoLed hls llfe Lo Lhe socleLal
beneflLs of responslble drlnklng and LllsabeLh Polmgren whose news releases from Lhe Wlne lnsLlLuLe
have kepL Amerlca lnformed on wlne and healLh lssues
ChapLer 4 owes much Lo Sue and hll nelson urdue unlverslLy faculLy members who are very well
read Lraveled and accompllshed ln flne wlne and good food Sherry and 1om SLorey Susan and Marlon
Wlnkler from Cle Mlss Lwo splendld couples who eplLomlze SouLhern hosplLallLy Lo nonnle Cameron
an auLhorlLy on wlne servlce Amerlcan Alrllnes lnLernaLlonal llrsL lllghL ALLendanL exLraordlnalre and
housemoLher Lo more Lhan 100 aL urdues Slgma hl Lpsllon fraLernlLy
Among Lhe many Amerlcan vlnLners and wlne markeLers who were lnsplraLlonal for ChapLer 3 are 8ob
8ellus !oe 8olllnger uon Carano !ack uanlels Ld larver 1om logarLy lred lranzla uarryl Croom
eLer Puwller 8on !ohnson eLer kasper uonn kelly 8ernard La 8orle Mlke LamberL MarLy Lee uavld
LeLL Ann LlLLlefleld Zelma Long Crvllle Magoon lrancls Mahoney Larry McCulre SLeve Melsner 8rlan
MoffaLL 8oberL Mondavl 1lm Murphy Cll nlckel 8oberL almer !lm edroncelll !anos 8advanyl !r
uavld 8eady !ack SchlaLLer !an Shrem 8lll Shlll !ack SLuarL 8lll SLuhL Marlmar 1orres Lrlc WenLe
Permann Wlemer Pack Wllson and hll Woodward
ln Lurope AnLhony 8arLon Andreas 8auer AlberL 8lchoL Cuy 8lzoL !eanClaude 8olsseL Luc 8ouchard
8arLholomew 8roadbenL 1hlerry 8udln !ulle Campos uanlel CaLhlard !eanMlchel Cazes Armand
CoLLln Panns ChrlsLophe Wegeleruelnhard valerle uelannoy 8oberL uenby Lugene ue8ose hllp
ul8elardlno Ceorges uu8oeuf 8lll ueuLsch 8oberL urouhln 1lm Lnos Pank Lvans 8lchard Perberger
8ob !anelll ChrlsLopher Marshall hlllppe Menguy Marcus Moller8acke ChrlsLlan Moreau 8lchard
Mueller MonLse alnous 8oberL ulley 8rlan SL lerre uennls 8oblnson ChrlsLophe Salln Warren
SLrauss Penry SLuarL Mlckey SLuarL and !ames SymlngLon have conLrlbuLed conslderably Lo maklng Lhls
book a reallLy
avlng dlscussed Lhe seeds of raLlonale and reasonlng for Lhls book l would llke Lo recognlze Lhose who
have been lnsLrumenLal ln lLs
creaLlon
ACknCWLLuCMLn1S - xlx
1here are also Lhose wlLh whom l have Lhe pleasure of worklng on a dally basls aL urdue unlverslLy my
secreLary Mlchele !avens ls qulLe frankly Lhe very besL LssenLlal Leam members lnclude Sherl lell
SLeve Cauger Llnda Paar Lllen Parkness and Llnda Mllakls who Look calls senL faxes dellvered lllusLra
Llons passed along messages LaughL me how Lo work Lhe new compuLerese and ln counLless ways gave
of Lhelr Llme and energles
Also conLrlbuLlng are Lhe members of my Amerlcan Alrllnes crew Lmlly 8aclc PorLencla 8arLon Mary
Anne 8rooks Llnda uanlel Marc Lvans Mlke Cunn 8ob Payen ulane Peard !ohn !aynes Penry !oyner
koolsum klavon ueldre Meyer Shlrley SLacy 8andy 1homas !lm verges and Chalrman 8ob Crandall
who ln demandlng Lhe besL wlnes from Lhe worlds flnesL vlnLners gave me Lhe worlds greaLesL [ob
valued mosL of all ls Lhe lrreplaceable supporL from my wlfe Caye She has sacrlflced many evenlngs
and weekends brlnglng me counLless cups of hoL coffeeand yes a few glasses of good wlnewhlle l
slmply Lhanked her and conLlnued poundlng away aL Lhe keyboard
l am very graLeful Lo one and all
ln vlno verlLas!
8lchard vlne hu
xx - ACknCWLLuCMLn1S
WlnL A8LClA1lCn

1
ln18CuuC1lCn
WlnL C8lClnS Anu uLllnl1lCnS
v!Al lLhough experLs dlsagree as Lo Lhe exacL orlgln of Lhe Lerm many Lhl8m scholars now ldenLlfy
Lhe PlLLlLe scrlpL weean as Lhe flrsL wlne word recorded as early as 1300 8C 1he Ceorglans of
anclenL Armenla are also credlLed wlLh a slmllar vocal reference Lo wlne
1he Cxford Lngllsh ulcLlonary Lraces Lhe modern Lngllsh word wlne back Lo Lhe Cld Lngllsh wln
assoclaLed wlLh Lhe LaLln vlnum whlch ln Lurn ls relaLed Lo Lhe Creek olnos and Lhe archalc Creek
wolnos 1he Creek olnos logos (wlne loglc) ls Lhe orlgln of our Lerm enology (or Lhe 8rlLlsh oenology)
whlch ls Lhe sclence of wlnemaklng 1hus a modernday wlnemaker ls an enologlsL
1he common dlcLlonary deflnlLlon of wlne ls an alcohollc beverage obLalned by Lhe fermenLaLlon of Lhe
[ulce of Lhe frulL of Lhe vlne 1he uS 8ureau of Alcohol 1obacco and llrearms (8A1l or more
commonly A1l) deflnes wlne as Lhe producL of Lhe [ulce of sound rlpe grapes A Lechnlcal crlLlclsm of
Lhe laLLer sLaLemenL ls dlrecLed Loward Lhe phrase sound rlpe grapes 1here are several famous wlnes
made from green grapesand even more made from overrlpe grapes More lmporLanL Lhe A1l
deflnlLlon overlooks any sLlpulaLlon for Lhe alllmporLanL fermenLaLlon process necessary Lo generaLe
Lhe producL Wlne as Lhe word ls used ln Lhls book ls Lhe producL of fermenLlng and processlng grape
[ulce or musL Crushed grapes generally wlLh all or some porLlon of Lhe sLems removed are known as
musL
Wlne made from any frulL oLher Lhan grapes ls quallfled boLh by LradlLlon and by A1l commerclal
regulaLlon by ldenLlfylng LhaL parLlcular frulL 8y lLself Lhe Lerm wlne lmplles Lhe beverage ls made from
grapes CLherwlse lL ls labeled as blackberry wlne peach wlne dandellon wlne and so forLh
P lL8MLn1A1lCn
lermenLaLlon ls a naLural process ln whlch Lhe grape sugars (mosLly glucose and frucLose) are
Lransformed lnLo eLhyl alcohol and carbon dloxlde gas ln 1810 Lhe lrench chemlsL and physlclsL !oseph
Louls CayLussac descrlbed Lhls process ln Lhe followlng chemlcal equaLlon
C6P12062C2P3CP + 2C02
(grape sugars) (eLhyl alcohol + carbon dloxlde gas)
1oday we know LhaL wlne fermenLaLlon ls carrled ouL by yeasLs produclng proLeln compounds called
enzymes caLalysLs LhaL are dlrecLly lnvolved wlLh Lhe sugar alcohol/C02 converslon SLudenLs of Lhe
fermenLaLlon process learn LhaL lL very closely parallels Lhe glycolysls cycle LhaL ls elemenLary Lo modern
blochemlsLry and LhaL heaL energy ls also a producL of Lhe LransformaLlon
yeasL enzymes
C6P1206 2C2P3CP + 2C02 + 36 kllocalorles of energy
ConsequenLly we are dependenL on Lwo very dlfferenL planL forms for Lhe maklng of wlne Lhe
grapevlne and Lhe yeasL cell
P 1PL vlnL
1he leaves sLems and rooLs of Lhe grapevlne classlfy lL blologlcally as a hlgherform planL Such planLs
are able Lo use sunllghL Lo make sugars from carbon dloxlde and waLer Lhrough Lhe process of
phoLosynLhesls Some of Lhese sugars are used ln Lhe meLabollc processes of Lhe planLs llfe sysLem
AnoLher porLlon of Lhese preclous sugar compounds ls sLored ln Lhe grapevlnes rooLs unLll veralson a
lrench Lerm referrlng Lo LhaL Llme when grapes commence Lo rlpen and sugars are LransporLed from
rooLs Lo berrles
1axonomlcally Lhe grapevlne ls classlfled as follows
Croup SpermLophyLa
ulvlslon 1racheophyLa
Subdlvlslon Leropslda
Class Anglosperm
Subclass ulcoLyledonae
Crder 8amnales
lamlly vlLaceae (Ampelldaceae)
Cenus vlLls
Subgenera LuvlLls and Muscadlnla
1here are more Lhan 30 known specles of vlLls and many of Lhese are lndlsLlngulshable Lo all buL hlghly
skllled vlLlculLurlsLs Crlglns of Lhe vlne are largely llmlLed Lo Lhe norLhern Pemlsphere and Lhe norLh
Amerlcan conLlnenL ls parLlcularly abundanL ln naLlve specles
vlLls ls a declduous planL LhaL cllmbs by grasplng supporLlng ob[ecLs wlLh ouLgrowLhs of very speclal
leafLype organs called Lendrlls ln Lhe wlld vlnes may reach Lhe Lops of Lall Lrees buL ln culLurlng Lhe
vlne apLly called vlLlculLure Lhe naLural growLh ls generally conLrolled by annual prunlng 1yplcally
vlnes ln vlneyards are Lralned on posLandwlre Lrellls supporLs deslgned Lo opLlmlze boLh Lhe quallLy
and Lhe quanLlLy of Lhe planLs yleld Lxposure of grape leaves Lo sunllghL lncreases Lhe producLlon of
grape sugars by allowlng phoLosynLhesls Lo Lransform carbon dloxlde whlch wlll evenLually resulL ln
grapes of varylng levels of sweeLness
noLe how Lhe earller chemlcal equaLlon for fermenLaLlon compares wlLh LhaL of phoLosynLhesls
ulLravloleL llghL
6C02+ 6P20 C6P1206 + 6 02
1hls process ls dlameLrlc Lo fermenLaLlon Carbon dloxlde ls now Lhe subsLraLe from whlch Lhe reacLlon
ls fueled caLalyzed by Lhe ulLravloleL rays ln sunshlne wlLh sugar as Lhe producL and oxygen as a by
producL
1radlLlonally grape quallLy ls closely llnked Lo sweeLness levels aLLalned ln rlpenlng Severe prunlng ls
ofLen pracLlced Lo obLaln smaller crops of hlgher quallLy and more moderaLe prunlng ls generally
assoclaLed wlLh a larger quanLlLy of lowerquallLy frulL
As a rule Lwo buds emerge from Lhe abclsslon polnL of each leaf on Lhe vlne 1hese buds are covered by
a slngle cap or callpLra and ln many varleLles a Lhlrd or LerLlary bud ls also found buL rarely sprouLs
unless damaged by sprlng frosL or some oLher malady Lhe prlmary buds sprouL Lo produce new shooLs
whlch wlll develop leaves and frulL 1he flowers of Lhe vlne emerge on developlng shooLs AL Lhe
perlmeLer of Lhe flower several male sLamens produce pollen whlch by wlnd lnsecL acLlvlLy or oLher
mechanlcal means flnds lLs way Lo Lhe cenLral female plsLll where ferLlllzaLlon Lakes place and
formaLlon of grape berrles commences
ShooLs maLure from a supple green vegeLaLlve sLaLe Lo a hard woody cane whlch ls pruned accordlng
Lo any number of vlLlculLural moLlves and deslgns When prlmary buds or shooLs are damaged
secondary buds Lhen grow Lo produce a grape crop almosL always of lesser quallLy and quanLlLy Lhan
would have been achleved by Lhe prlmarles
ln any evenL all frulL resulLs from Lhe currenL seasons growLh 8unches of grapes may be composed of
fewer Lhan 10 berrles eachln some of Lhe more obscure varleLlesLo more Lhan 300 berrles ln Lhe
mosL prollflc Lypes ClusLer shapes range from long cyllndrlcal forms (wlLh or wlLhouL laLeral forms
called shoulders) Lo shorLer conlcal sLrucLures 1he grape ls morphologlcally a Lrue berry because lL ls a
slmple frulL wlLh a pulpy perlcarp conslsLlng of four skln layers epldermls hypodermls ouLer wall and
lnner wall
PydaLhods
SLamen
lsLll_3
llCu8L 11 Morphology of grape clusLer Lendrll leaf and cane (ArLwork by Larry 8osL)
1PL vlnL - 3
llCu8L 12 Morphology of a grape berry 1he perlcarp conslsLs of epldermls hypodermls ouLer wall
and lnner wall (ArLwork by Larry 8osL)
8ecepLacle
SLylar Scar
8loom
erlcarp
ulp
Seed
Cenerally grapes are naLlve Lo LemperaLe zones prlmarlly beLween 40 Lo 30 degrees souLh laLlLude 1he
grapevlne can however adapL Lo some raLher dlfflculL cllmaLe and soll condlLlons ln reproducLlon vlnes
ofLen form clones offsprlng wlLh sllghL varlaLlons ln characLer respondlng Lo Lhe naLural selecLlon
process As compared wlLh Lhe classlc Lype some clones may be more reslsLanL Lo cold wlnLer
LemperaLures oLhers may requlre a shorLer growlng season and sLlll oLhers may produce heavler crops
and so on Some varleLles have been caLaloged wlLh hundreds of dlfferenL clones from whlch selecLlons
are made Lo besL meeL vlnLner consLralnLs and deslgns
?oung vlnes are propagaLed asexually usually from cuLLlngs or grafLlngs grown ln a nursery for a year or
so A newly planLed vlneyard may be allowed Lo produce a Loken number of grape clusLers durlng lLs
Lhlrd year of growLh wlLh oLher clusLers plnched off shorLly afLer bloom lL may be Lhe flfLh or slxLh year
before a full vlnLage of grape producLlon ls Laken All Lhlngs consldered lL ls common Lo flnd Lhese years
of vlneyard esLabllshmenL cosLs LoLallng more Lhan $6000 per acre noL lncludlng Lhe cosL of land
1he subgenus LuvlLls lncludes all Lhe worlds grapevlnes LhaL produce grapes ln clusLers 1he mosL
lmporLanL specles of LuvlLls ls vlLls vlnlfera Lhe Cld World grape LhaL orlglnaLed ln Asla Mlnor
vlLls vlnlfera ls culLlvaLed around Lhe world Loday as Lhe Lrue noble wlne grape Among llLerally
hundreds of vlnlfera varleLles are Lhe famous Chardonnay Sauvlgnon 8lanc Semlllon CaberneL
Sauvlgnon MerloL lnoL nolr and Camayall naLlve Lo lrance ln lLaly Lhe 1rebblano nebblolo and
Sanglovese are classlc vlnlfera varleLles as ls !ohannlsberg 8lesllng ln Cermany
vlLls vlnlfera WhlLe varleLles
Chardonnay (shardoenA?) 1hls classlc varleLy ls naLlve Lo Lhe 8urgundy reglon of lrance buL ls grown
around Lhe world lL rlpens ln laLe mldseason Lo
P Luvl1lS
vl1lS vlnllL8A
small compacL coneshaped clusLers of llghL green berrles (See llgure 14 color lnserL) Chardonnay
produces sparse cropsLhe very besL quallLy from sLruggllng vlnes ln marglnal solls and cllmaLes lL ls
famous for complex appleclLrus honeyollve flavors from Lhe noble vlneyards ln Lhe Chablls MeursaulL
and MonLracheL dlsLrlcLs ln 8urgundy Chardonnay ls also Lhe prlnclpal varleLy grown ln Lhe CoLe de
8lancs dlsLrlcL of Champagne
Sauvlgnon 8lanc (soveen?CPn8LAWnk) 1he whlLe Sauvlgnon ls anoLher classlc varleLy naLlve Lo
lrance and also very popular ln many oLher counLrles 1he name ls derlved from Lhe lrench sauvage
(wlld) lL ls a vlgorous vlne wlLh long loosely clusLered yellowlshgreen berrles maLurlng ln early
mldseason lrom Lhe oulllylume vlneyards ln Lhe upper reaches of Lhe Lolre Sauvlgnon 8lanc wlnes
are Lyplcally melonllke and perfumey ln aroma and LasLe or fume ln characLer a sLyle someLlmes
labeled lume 8lanc ln Lhe new World ln 8ordeaux and ln much of norLhern Callfornla Lhe wlne has
very llLLle color buL a bold grassyblossom flavor
!ohannlsberg 8lesllng (yoPAnnLSberg 8LLZllng) naLlve Lo Cermany Lhe !ohannlsberg 8lesllng ls Lhe
prlnclpal varleLy grown Lhere for LhaL counLrys very besL wlnes 1he frulL Lakes Lhe form of shorL
cyllndrlcal clusLers of yellowlshgray berrles doLLed wlLh russeL spoLs 1he prlzed 8lesllng someLlmes
labeled as WhlLe 8lesllng ln Amerlca and oLher counLrles can resulL ln a golden wlne of lnLense floral
aprlcoL flavor lL ls a varleLy lncreaslngly planLed ln Lhe CreaL Lakes reglon and norLheasLern Amerlca as
well as ln Cregon and Lo a lesser degree ln Callfornla
Semlllon (SLMmeeyohn) 1hls varleLy ls mosL closely ldenLlfled wlLh Lhe famed sweeL wlnes made from
purposely overrlpened grapes ln Lhe SauLernes dlsLrlcL of 8ordeaux ClusLers of Semlllon are
comparaLlvely small wlLh LlghLly compacL yellowlshgolden berrles Whereas SauLernes has a rlch
goldenamber hue and a profound honeypeach flavor dry (noL sweeL) wlne made from Semlllon has a
shy yellow color wlLh a dellcaLe pearmelon characLer lL ls growlng ln popularlLy ln Lhe warmer cllmes of
Callfornla and WashlngLon SLaLe
CewllrzLramlner (gahvoC81SLrahmeener) naLlve Lo norLhern lLaly CewllrzLramlner ls generally
consldered Lhe ma[or varleLy of Lhe Alsace wlne growlng reglon of norLheasLern lrance lL ylelds
moderaLely heavy crops of
small cyllndrlcal bunches LlghLly packed wlLh small berrles curlously yellowlshplnk ln color 1he Cerman
gewllrz (splcy) refers Lo lLs glngerclnnamon aroma 1he acreage planLed Lo CewllrzLramlner has been
slowly on Lhe rlse ln Lhe cooler cllmaLe locales of Cregon Lhe CreaL Lakes reglon and Lhe norLheasLern
unlLed SLaLes
lnoL Crlglo (peenoh greezzvo) 1hls ls one of Lhe mosL wldely culLlvaLed vlnes across Lhe norLhern
secLors of lLaly and as lnoL Crls can be found ln many oLher Luropean counLrles lL ls known as
8ulander ln Cermany as SzurkebaraL ln Lhe 1okay reglon of Pungary and apLly enough as 1okay
dAlsace ln Lhe Alsace reglon of lrance lLs rlch golden color and bold flgalmond flavor have prompLed
Lhe esLabllshmenL of many new vlneyards of lnoL Crls ln Cregon
Chenln 8lanc (shenln blawnk) naLlve Lo Lhe Lolre valley reglon ln wesL cenLral lrance Lhe Chenln 8lanc
varleLy ls a vlgorous and producLlve vlne yleldlng long conlcal compacL clusLers Chenln 8lanc Lyplcally
has a dellcaLe frulLy flavora blL flgllke ln Lhe besL wlnes made from Lhe varleLy lL has losL much of lLs
once greaL popularlLy ln Amerlca
CorLese (coarLaysuh) An old classlc vlne CorLese ls agaln ln Lhe llmellghL because of Lhe remarkable
popularlLy bulldlng for wlnes from Lhls varleLy grown ln Lhe nowfamous Cavl dlsLrlcL ln Lhe ledmonL
reglon of norLhern lLaly new wlnemaklng Lechnlques have succeeded ln exLracLlng more of lLs dellcaLe
sLonyalmond flavor and Lamlng lLs blLlng acldlLy no ma[or commerclal lnLeresL has yeL surfaced for
planLlng CorLese ln Lhe unlLed SLaLes
MuscaL de lronLlgnan (MooskaL dah frawnLeenyawn) Cne of many MuscaL grape varleLles LhaL are
prlzed for Lhelr bold powerful flgguava flavor MuscaL de lronLlgnan ls wldely culLlvaLed ln souLhern
lrance A close relaLlve MoscaLo ls grown ln norLhern lLaly for Lhe famed AsLl SpumanLe sparkllng
wlnes MuscaL de lronLlgnan produces elllpLlcally shaped berrles ln compacL medlumslze clusLers
ComparaLlvely small acreages of Lhls varleLy are culLlvaLed ln Amerlca
alomlno (palohmeenoh) 1hls varleLy ls ofLen erroneously referred Lo as Colden Chasselas ln some
wlnegrowlng reglons alomlno ls Lhe prlnclpal grape grown ln Spaln for Lhe producLlon of Lhe flnesL
Sherry desserL and cockLall wlnes lL ls a vlgorous producLlve vlne maLurlng lLs frulL ln laLe mldseason Lo
large frequenLly shouldered clusLers of greenlshyellow oblong berrles 1here are some commerclal
vlneyards of alomlno ln Callfornla buL new planLlngs are rare
lnoL 8lanc (peenoh blawnk) A varleLy closely ldenLlfled wlLh Lhe lower dlsLrlcLs ln Lhe 8urgundy reglon
of lrance lnoL 8lanc ls named for lLs plne cone clusLer shapepacked LlghLly wlLh small green
berrles lLs wlne ls shy ln flavor recalllng very llghL nuances of flg melon and ralslns uesplLe Lhls dellca
cy lL ls galnlng some popularlLy among vlnLners ln Callfornla
Sllvaner (slllvahnner) Sllvaner (someLlmes spelled Sylvaner) ls naLlve Lo Cermany and can generally
be found ln Lhe warmer less rlgorous cllmaLes of Lhls counLrys souLhern wlnegrowlng dlsLrlcLs lL
maLures Lo small cyllndrlcal compacL clusLers of spherlcal yellowgreen berrles Sllvaner generally ylelds
heavler crops buL less flavor lnLenslLy Lhan lLs slbllng Lhe noble !ohannlsberg 8lesllng 1he Alsace
reglon ln lrance culLlvaLes many Sllvaner vlneyards lnLeresL ln Lhe varleLy has never been wldespread ln
Lhe unlLed SLaLes
AllgoLe (alahgoLay) 1hls varleLy of CenLral lrance ylelds a raLher ordlnary whlLe Lable wlne lL ls found
mosLly ln Lhe Challonals dlsLrlcL of Lhe 8urgundy reglon
8urger A varleLy found ln cenLral Callfornla Lhe 8urger ls a heavy producer once wldely culLlvaLed ln Lhe
CenLral valley reglon for blendlng and for dlsLllllng lnLo brandy
Chasellas (shasellahs) 1hls varleLy of SwlLzerland and cenLral lrance also known as lendanL ylelds a
clean buL raLher neuLral whlLe Lable wlne
Columbard lound ln cenLral Callfornla Lhe Colombard varleLy ls also called lrench Colombard lL ylelds
a very frulLy Lable wlne
lolle 8lanche (fahl blansh) lolle 8lanche also known as lcpoul ls culLlvaLed for fresh llghL wlnes ln Lhe
souLhern 8hone valley of cenLral lrance lL ls also a prlnclpal varleLy for Lhe maklng of Cognac brandy
Mllller1hurgau (muleluhr Loorgow) CulLlvaLed ln Cermany Muller1hurgau ls Lhe hybrld offsprlng of a
!ohannlsberg 8lesllng/Sylvaner cross lL makes very frulLy whlLe Lable wlnes
edro xlmenez (paydroh PlMeneLh) edro xlmenez ls a varleLy culLlvaLed for Sherry desserL wlnes ln
Lhe !erez de la lronLera reglon of Spaln
rosseco Crown ln Lhe veneLo reglon of norLhern lLaly rosseco ls besL known for lLs quallLy sparkllng
wlnes
Scheurebe (sharaybuh) Scheurebe ls a very frulLy varleLy culLlvaLed prlnclpally ln Lhe 8helnpfalz
8helnhessen and lranken reglons of Cermany
Serclal CulLlvaLed ln Madelra for Lable wlnes Serclal ls more wldely known as Lhe prlnclpal grape used
for Madelra desserL wlnes
1rebblano known as ugnl 8lanc ln lrance Lhe 1rebblano varleLy Lakes lLs name from Lhe 1rebbla valley
ln cenLral lLaly across whlch lL ls planLed Lo many Lhousands of acres
velLllner CulLlvaLed ln AusLrla and norLhern lLaly velLllner ls someLlmes referred Lo as Cruener
veldlner lLs frulLy characLer ls slmllar Lo LhaL of Sllvaner
vlLls vlnlfera 8ed varleLles
CaberneL Sauvlgnon (cabbarenay soveenyohn) 1he qulnLessenLlal red Sauvlgnon CaberneL
Sauvlgnon ls perhaps Lhe mosL famous grape ln Lhe world 1here are dlverse oplnlons as Lo lLs orlgln buL
lL remalns Lhe prlnclpal varleLy grown for Lhe renowned chaLeaux esLaLes across Lhe 8ordeaux reglon of
lrance 1he vlne ls vlgorous and makes long loose conlcal clusLers of small spherlcal blue/black berrles
1he deeply lobed leaves of CaberneL Sauvlgnon are ofLen used as Lhe models for vlnlculLurally lnsplred
arLwork (See llgure 13 color lnserL) 1he wlne ls very dark ruby red wlLh an aroma of green bell pepper
and cedar and a flavor of black curranLs CaberneL Sauvlgnon ls wldely grown ln Callfornla and
WashlngLon SLaLe wlLh several oLher sLaLes addlng Lo Lhls acreage
MerloL (mareloh) nexL Lo CaberneL Sauvlgnon MerloL ls Lhe mosL lmporLanL grape varleLy grown ln
8ordeaux MerloL clusLers are long and conlcal wlLh compacL medlumslze spherlcal bluevloleL
berrles Wlne from MerloL ls Lyplcally a blL llghLer ln color denslLy and LexLure Lhan CaberneL Sauvlgnon
lL has slmllar flavor componenLs buL ls markedly more frulLllke ln overall characLer ln recenL years Lhe
demand for MerloL has achleved remarkable growLh and commensuraLely new vlneyards have been
esLabllshed ln Callfornla WashlngLon SLaLe and oLher mlldercllmaLe sLaLes
lnoL nolr (peenoh nwah) lnoL nolr ls Lhe regal varleLy of Lhe magnlflcenL CoLe dCr (Slope of Cold)
of norLhern 8urgundy ln easL cenLral lrance ln Cermany lL ls called SpaLburgunder lnoL nolr makes
lLs besL frulL ln cooler cllmaLes and poorer solls condlLlons eplLomlzed ln 8urgundy lL ylelds small blue
berrles LlghLly packed ln coneshaped clusLers 8ed wlne from lnoL ls very llghL ln color hue and
denslLy wlLh a dlsLlncLlve coffeellke aroma and brambleberry flavor Some dlsLrlcLs ln Callfornla and
Cregon are bulldlng flne repuLaLlons for Lhe greaL lnoL as are cerLaln locales ln upper new ?ork and
oLher easLern sLaLes
Zlnfandel (zlnfundell) Zlnfandel ls a varleLy closely ldenLlfled wlLh Callfornla vlneyards ConLroversy
conLlnues as Lo lLs orlgln Lhe mosL wldely accepLed noLlon ls LhaL lL ls perhaps Lhe very same vlne as Lhe
rlmlLlvo dl Clola ln souLhern lLaly Zlnfandel ls a producLlve vlne yleldlng large cyllndrlcal clusLers
LlghLly packed and ofLen heavlly shouldered lLs berrles are spherlcal wlLh a small brown aplcal scar
?oung wlne has rlch plumberry flavors
Sanglovese (sangeeohvayzah) 1hls ls Lhe revered vlne of Lhe 1uscany reglon ln norLhcenLral lLaly A
clone called SangloveLo ls grown for Lhe famous ChlanLl wlnes of 1uscany Sanglovese requlres a long
warm growlng season ln order Lo produce lLs besL frulL ClusLers conLaln moderaLely large oval black
berrles fllled wlLh an abundance of large seeds ?oung Sanglovese wlne has a dark scarleLruby hue and
flavors recalllng Lruffles and blackberrles AlLhough Lhe acreage of Lhls varleLy planLed ln Amerlca ls sLlll
very small lnLeresL seems Lo be lncreaslng among norLhern Callfornla vlnLners
nebblolo (nebbyoloh) Along wlLh Sanglovese nebblolo ls an arlsLocraL among red wlne grapes ln lLaly
1he grand vlneyards of 8arolo and 8arbaresco ln Lhe ledmonL reglon are LesLlmony Lo Lhe famous
nebblolo lL rlpens laLe ln Lhe season Lo long conlcal clusLers whlch are ofLen shouldered lLs medlum
slze berrles are spherlcal and a foggy (nebbloso means foggy ln lLallan) grayblue ln color ?oung
nebblolo wlne has a dark purpllshgarneL color and ls Lyplfled by an aroma of vloleLs and a prunellke
flavor 1here are only a few commerclal nebblolo vlneyards ln Lhe unlLed SLaLes alLhough lnLeresL ls
growlng slowly
Camay (gamay) Camay ls Lhe premler grape varleLy culLlvaLed ln Lhe famous 8eau[olals dlsLrlcL of Lhe
8urgundy wlne reglon ln lrance lL should noL be confused wlLh Camay 8eau[olals a varleLy LhaL ls
nelLher Camay nor 8eau[olals buL raLher a clone of lnoL nolr culLlvaLed ln Callfornla Camay ls a
vlgorous vlne produclng abundanL medlumslze conlcal compacL clusLers of large sllghLly elllpLlcal blue
berrles ?oung Camay wlne has a medlum color denslLy wlLh a regal purpllsh hue a blackcherry aroma
and a plum flavor 1here are comparaLlvely few uS vlneyards planLed Lo Camay
8arbera (bahrbarerah) 1he 8arbera varleLy ls wldely grown ln norLhern lLaly and ln a few vlneyards ln
Callfornla 1hls ls a vlgorous vlne yleldlng abundanL conlcal clusLers of dark blue elllpLlcal berrles lLs
wlne has a dark crlmson hue and ls ofLen raLher acldlc and harsh unLll Lamed by wood aglng
Crenache (grenahsh) Crenache ls naLlve Lo Spaln where lL ls called Carnacha buL ls wldely grown ln
Lhe 8hone valley of lrance for red wlnes and ln Callfornla for Lhe producLlon of plnk blush wlnes
ClusLers of Crenache are shorL conlcal and ofLen shouldered 8errles are of medlum slze sllghLly elllpLl
cal and loosely arranged Lyplfled by a reddlshblue color 8enewed lnLeresL ln Lhe 8hone varleLles has
resulLed ln some recenL planLlngs of Crenache ln Lhe unlLed SLaLes
Syrah (searrah) Syrah was broughL Lo Lhe 8hone valley by reLurnlng Crusaders AL LhaL Llme lL was
called Shlraz Lhe name sLlll used ln AusLralla and oLher counLrles Syrah rlpens raLher early wlLh
moderaLe producLlon of compacL clusLers of sllghLly ovalshaped berrles lL ls ofLen confused wlLh eLlLe
Slrah a LoLally dlfferenL varleLy Syrah has a dense blueblack hue and a Lruffle/Larllke aroma
CaberneL lranc (cabbarenay frahnk) AnoLher of Lhe grand 8ordeaux varleLles CaberneL lranc ls sLlll
used prlmarlly for blendlng buL ls now en[oylng lncreaslng popularlLy as an lndlvldual varleLy parLlcularly
ln Callfornla and AusLralla CaberneL lranc berrles are a blL larger wlLh less denslLy ln color acldlLy and
Lannln as compared wlLh lLs Sauvlgnon cousln 1he aroma of CaberneL lranc ls dlsLlncLlvely llke Lobacco
leaf wlLh herbal and grassy nuances and Lhe young wlne ls characLerlzed by a fresh buL complex earLhy
berry flavor
Mourvedre (moorvehdrah) Mourvedre ls perhaps Lhe same as buL surely a relaLlve of Lhe Spanlsh
MaLaro vlne CulLlvaLed ln Lhe 8hone valley of lrance prlmarlly for blendlng Mourvedre ls lncreaslngly
popular as a varleLal red Lable wlne ln Lhe unlLed SLaLes ClusLers of Mourvedre are raLher large ofLen
doubleshouldered wlLh spherlcal dark blue berrles
AleaLlco (aleeahLahko) 1hls varleLy of SouLhern lLaly has a very frulLy flavor and ls grown mosLly for
desserL wlnes
AllcanLe 8oucheL (alahkahnLay booshay) Crown ln souLhern lrance AllcanLe 8oucheL ls a LelnLurler
meanlng LhaL lLs berrles have plgmenLaLlon ln Lhe pulp as well as ln Lhe sklns 1hls varleLy ls ofLen used
ln blendlng Lo augmenL color lnLenslLy
Carlgnan (carelnyahn) A varleLy culLlvaLed ln Spaln and souLhern lrance Carlgnan ls very producLlve
and ls wldely grown ln Lhe CenLral valley reglon of Callfornla
Charbono (shar8Cnoh) Charbono (Charbonneau ln lrance) a varleLy of norLhern lLaly produces a
heavybodled ofLen raLher Lannlc red Lable wlne
Corvlno (coreveenoh) A norLhern lLallan varleLy of dlsLlncLlve characLer Corvlno ls wldely culLlvaLed ln
Lhe 8ardollno and valpollcella dlsLrlcLs of Lhe veneLo reglon
lrlesa (freeaysuh) lrlesa a varleLy of norLhern lLaly produces a raLher ordlnary red Lable wlne
Crlgnollno (greenyoleenoh) 1he norLhern lLallan Crlgnollno has a very frulLy flavor and produces a
dlsLlncLlve red Lable wlne
Malbec Malbec a varleLy of cenLral and souLhern lrance ls Lhe same as Lhe ressac and CoL varleLles
and a close relaLlve of Lhe CaberneL famlly
Mlsslon 1he souLhern Callfornla Mlsslon varleLy was wldely grown for ordlnary red Lable wlnes unLll
rohlblLlon
eLlLe Slrah 1hls norLhern Callfornla varleLy ls Lhe same as Lhe uurlff varleLy ln Lhe 8hone valley of
lrance lLs berrles produce dense dark fullbodled ofLen Lannlc red Lable wlne
8efosco 1hls varleLy of cenLral and norLhern lLaly (Mondeuse ln lrance) produces heavy crops for
ordlnary red Lable wlne
Souzao (soozoh) A varleLy of norLhern orLugal Souzao ls a producLlve vlne culLlvaLed for red orL
desserL wlnes
1empranlllo (Lemprahneeyoh) 1hls varleLy of cenLral Spaln ls Lhe dlsLlngulshed grape of Lhe 8lo[a
reglon
c
1ourlga A varleLy of norLhern orLugal 1ourlga ls a producLlve vlne culLlvaLed for red orL desserL
wlnes
vl1lS LA88uSCA
1he genus and specles vlLls labrusca consLlLuLe Lhe socalled fox grape Some people conLend LhaL Lhe
characLer of labrusca varleLles ls relaLed Lo an odor assoclaLed wlLh foxes 1hls assoclaLlon Lakes a blL of
lmaglnaLlve sLreLch for anyone who has ever been close Lo Lhese llLLle anlmals More plauslble legends
Lell of foxes belng aLLracLed by Lhe lnLense frulL flavor ofLen assoclaLed wlLh grape sofL drlnks candles
and so forLh
vlLls Labrusca WhlLe varleLles
CaLawba (kah1AWbah) CaLawba a vlne found growlng ln Lhe wlld near Lhe CaLawba 8lver ln norLh
Carollna clrca 1802 was dlscovered Lo be dlsease reslsLanL as well as producLlve and hardy lL was
planLed ln Chlo ln Lhe mlddle 1800s and produced Amerlcas flrsL commerclal sparkllng wlne lL rlpens
laLe wlLh medlumslze conlcal bunches of large plnksklnned spherlcal berrles 1he CaLawba remalns
heavlly planLed ln easLern uS vlneyards buL lnLeresL ln Lhls varleLy ls dlmlnlshlng
uelaware uelaware CounLy Chlo ls Lhe orlgln of Lhe uelaware a naLlve Amerlcan varleLy dlscovered
durlng Lhe early 1800s lL ls wldely culLlvaLed ln easLern uS vlneyards remalnlng prlmarlly because of a
once huge demand for new ?ork SLaLe Champagne whlch has long slnce been replaced by Callfornla
sparklers uelaware rlpens raLher early Lo small cyllndrlcal clusLers of Llny spherlcal plnksklnned
berrles ln Lhe hands of a LalenLed wlnemaker Lhls varleLy can exhlblL a pleasanL frulLy aroma LhaL ls
ofLen compared Lo LhaL of wlne Lypes found ln Cermany AusLrla and SwlLzerland
nlagara 1he nlagara ls a vlne developed by researchers ln nlagara CounLy new ?ork durlng Lhe 1860s
lL ls a vlLls labrusca hybrld wlLh Lhe parenLage of Concord crossed wlLh Cassady ln preferred locales
nlagara ls a vlgorous and producLlve vlne lLs heavlly scenLed flavor belng Lhe sLandard for rlch frulLy
naLlve Amerlcan whlLe wlnes MosL vlneyards of nlagara Loday are harvesLed for fresh Lable grapes and
for whlLe grape [ulce producLlon
vlLls Labrusca 8ed varleLles
Concord 1he qulnLessenLlal foxy grape Lhe Concord ls a culLlvar developed ln Concord
MassachuseLLs durlng Lhe 1840s and ls beLLer known for lLs [ulce [elly and Lable grape producLlon Lhan
for wlne WlLh lncluslon of all lLs varlous uses lL ls one of Lhe mosL wldely culLlvaLed vlnes ln Lhe unlLed
SLaLes Concord ylelds large crops of large spherlcal blueblack berrles loosely arranged ln moderaLe
slze clusLers
lsabella lnLroduced Lo Lhe naLlonal scene ln 1816 Lhe lsabella ls LhoughL Lo have orlglnaLed from Lhe
garden of lsabella Clbbs ln SouLh Carollna Successfully grown for Lplscopal communlon wlne ln
PammondsporL new ?ork durlng Lhe 1840s lL became wldely planLed ln Lhe llnger Lakes dlsLrlcL
lsabella was also planLed Lo some exLenL along Lhe SwlsslLallan border reglon durlng Lhe laLer 1800s
lew commerclal vlneyards of lsabella remaln anywhere Loday
lves 1here are several accounLs as Lo Lhe orlgln of lves buL Lhere can be no quesLlon abouL lLs dense
color and rlch grapey flavor lL was lnLroduced by P lves ln Chlo ln 1844 and planLed along Lhe banks of
Lhe Chlo 8lver durlng Lhe
plnoL grls sauvlgnon chardonnay [ohannlsberg boLryLls madelr[zed
blanc rlesllng mold
llCu8L 37 WhlLe wlne color range
blush rosL plnoL noS1 *nebblolo aberneL* fandel
sauvlgnon
llCu8L 38 8ed wlne color range
llCu8L 333 Muscadlne grapes (hoLo by auLhor)
llCu8L 716 CaLarraLo grapes whlch produce Marsala wlnes (CourLesy of lLallan Wlne romoLlon
CenLer)
llCu8L 627 noble mold grapes aL ChaLeau 8leussec (CourLesy ofuomalnes 8aron de 8oLhschlld
phoLo by Mlchel Culllard)
1830s and Lo a greaLer exLenL ln upsLaLe new ?ork laLer 1he grand new ?ork SLaLe orL wlnes very
popular afLer Lhe repeal of rohlblLlon Lhrough Lhe 1960s were dependenL on lves lL ls a raLher
LemperamenLal vlne noL as producLlve as Concord nor as reslsLanL Lo cold and dlsease whlch ls why lL
has long slnce been replaced wlLh speclally selecLed hybrld grape culLlvars
vl1lS 8lA8lA
1he vlLls rlparla specles ls referred Lo as Lhe posLoak or frosL grape by some vlLlculLurlsLs lL ls wldely
adapLed Lo almosL all of LemperaLe norLh Amerlca buL ls mosL ofLen found easL of Lhe 8ocky MounLalns
from Canada Lo Lhe Culf CoasL 8ecause of lLs hardlness ln cold cllmaLes lL ls ofLen used for grafLlng as a
rooLsLock or ln grape breedlng by researchers
CLher norLh Amerlcan LuvlLls grape specles of noLe are vlLls aesLlvalls vlLls berlandlerl vlLls clnerea
and vlLls rupesLrls
muscadlnla
1he subgenus Muscadlnla ls more commonly known ln Amerlcas ueep SouLh as muscadlne
generally small loose clusLers of berrles Lyplfled by a Lhlck skln and dense pulp conslsLency and falrly
bursLlng wlLh [ammyfrulL flavors 1he bronzesklnned varleLles are collecLlvely referred Lo as
scuppernongs and Lhe reds are known as muscadlnes MosL are acLually hybrld culLlvars ln Lhe vlLls
roLundlfolla specles Lhe mosL commerclally lmporLanL of Lhese belng Carlos Magnolla noble and
1arheel
P?88luS Anu C8Al1lnC
naLural varlaLlons ln grapevlne and/or frulL morphology resulL ln grapes ldenLlfled by Lhe Lerm varleLles
Some varleLles whlch have cerLaln muLaLlons aparL from a morphologlcal change are dlfferenLlaLed by
Lhe Lerm clone varleLles and clones are boLh Lhe resulL of naLural selecLlon
Pybrlds are however alLogeLher anoLher maLLer ln Lhls case man lnsLead of naLure ls lnvolved ln Lhe
breedlng of grapevlnes 1he process ls one whereby pollen ls gaLhered from Lhe male sLamens of
selecLed grape flowers and used Lo ferLlllze female plsLlls on oLher speclflc grape flowers lrom Lhe
resulLlng melosls a genealoglcal comblnaLlon Lakes place ln Lhe developlng grape seeds whlch Lhen
reflecL Lhe aLLrlbuLes of each parenL Lach new vlne resulLlng from hybrldlzaLlon ls called a culLlvar a
Lerm derlved from culLlvaLed varleLy
1he raLlonale for hybrldlzaLlon ls Lo lmprove reslsLance Lo dlsease and adverse cllmaLe/soll condlLlons so
as Lo lncrease ylelds and advance frulL quallLy unforLunaLely lL ls common Lo flnd negaLlve
characLerlsLlcs assoclaLed wlLh domlnanL genes PlsLory lndlcaLes LhaL lL may Lake hundreds of crosses Lo
flnd [usL one culLlvar worLhy of commerclal culLlvaLlon unlverslLy breedlng programs conLlnue buL
sLaLeofLhearL research looks Lo Lhe advenL of gene
spllclng whlch promlses Lo make classlc varleLles lncreaslngly reslsLanL Lhus offerlng greaLer
producLlvlLy of beLLer quallLy frulL
Pybrldlzlng should noL be confused wlLh grafLlng ln avoldlng negaLlve soll condlLlons vlLlculLurlsLs ofLen
grafL one varleLy onLo anoLher CreaL care musL be Laken Lo ensure LhaL Lhe xylem and phloem sapflow
Llssue maLches perfecLly beLween Lhe sclon (upper frulLbearlng varleLy) and Lhe rooLsLock (rooLsupporL
varleLy) vlnes can be benchgrafLed and propagaLed asexually ln a nursery or LopgrafLed Lo change
a maLure vlne from one varleLy Lo anoLher ln a vlneyard
l8LnCPAML8lCAn P?88luS
1he Lerm lrenchAmerlcan hybrld evolved from efforLs Lo flnd vlnes reslsLanL Lo Lhe greaL hylloxera
rooL louse bllghL LhaL ravaged mosL of Lhe worlds wlnegrowlng communlLy durlng Lhe laLLer parL of Lhe
nlneLeenLh cenLury lrench vlnlfera vlnes well known for flne wlne quallLy were bred wlLh dlsease
reslsLanL labrusca and rlparla Amerlcan vlnes
CrafLlng classlc vlnlfera sclons aLop Lhe reslsLanL Amerlcan specles allowed for replanLlng Lhe classlc
lrench vlneyards Lo Lhelr orlglnal varleLles buL purlsLs scorned Lhe lrenchAmerlcan hybrlds as Lhe
basLard chlldren of lnsenslLlve vlLlculLure
neverLheless some lrenchAmerlcan hybrlds remaln lmporLanL culLlvars parLlcularly ln Lhe easLern
unlLed SLaLes where markeL accepLance of naLlve wlnes has severely dlmlnlshed durlng Lhe pasL decade
or so
lrenchAmerlcan Pybrld WhlLe CulLlvars
Seyval 8lanc (sayvahl blawnk) 1hls culLlvar ls consldered by many Lo be one of Lhe flnesL of Lhe lrench
Amerlcan hybrlds lL rlpens mldseason Lo large compacL conlcal bunches of sllghLly elllpLlcal greenlsh
yellow berrles
9
1A8LL 11
ComposlLlon of Crapes and naLural 1able Wlne
ComponenL Compound Approx ln Crapes Approx ln Wlne
WaLer 730 860
Sugars (frucLose glucose
wlLh
220 03
mlnor levels of sucrose)
Alcohols
(eLhanol wlLh Lrace levels 1 112
of hlgher alcohols)
Crganlc Aclds 9 6
(LarLarlc mallc wlLh
mlnor levels of lacLlc
succlnlc oxallc eLc)
Mlnerals 3 3
(poLasslum calclum wlLh
mlnor levels of sodlum
magneslum lron eLc)
henols 3 3
(flavonolds and
nonflavonolds)

nlLrogenous compounds
(proLeln amlno aclds humln
2 1
amldes ammonla eLc)
1C1AL 990 990
AdapLed from MA Amerlne eL al 1he 1echnology of Wlne Maklng 4Lh ed (WesLporL Conn Avl
1967) pp 111112
Wellmade Seyval 8lanc can compeLe favorably wlLh some dry whlLe wlnes made from Chardonnay and
lnoL 8lanc 1hls lrench hybrld was released ln 1919 by 8erLllle Seyve and vlcLor vlllard who asslgned lL
Lhe Seyvevlllard number 3276
vldal 8lanc (vLLdoll blawnk) !L vldal crossed 1rebblano wlLh anoLher hybrld Lo creaLe vldal 236 ln
8ordeaux uesplLe lLs lrench orlgln Lhe hybrld maLures frulL wlLh a raLher dlsLlncLlve Cerman characLer
vldal 8lanc has very long cyllndrlcal clusLers (almosL always shouldered) LlghLly packed wlLh small
greenlshwhlLe berrles wlLh 8lesllngllke russeL spoLs (See flgure 18 color lnserL) lL rlpens laLe ofLen
lefL on Lhe vlne for laLeharvesL a naLural dehydraLlon process LhaL concenLraLes sugars and flavors
LaLeharvesL vldal 8lanc can compare Lo slmllar wlnes made from Sylvaner
vlgnoles (vLLnyoal) A Mlssourlgrown vlgnoles shocked Lhe world ln 1992 when lL was selecLed as Lhe
8esLofShow whlLe Lable wlne ln a presLlglous lnLernaLlonal wlne compeLlLlon held ln Callfornla
vlgnoles ls a shy producer wlLh Llny yellowlshwhlLe berrles LlghLly packed ln raLher small clusLers
vlgnoles ls ofLen referred Lo ln Lhe llLeraLure as 8avaL 31 Lhe number glven Lo lL by lrench vlLlculLurlsL
!l 8avaL ln Lhe 1930s
lrenchAmerlcan Pybrld 8ed CulLlvars
Chambourcln (snAMburrsahn) A culLlvar LhaL has garnered conslderable aLLenLlon among easLern uS
wlnegrowers durlng Lhe pasL decade or so Chambourcln may now be Lhe mosL wldely planLed red
culLlvar Chambourcln usually ylelds good crops of small blue berrles loosely clusLered ln long bunches
whlch rlpen raLher laLe durlng Lhe vlnLage season 1he young wlne has a
moderaLe garneL hue wlLh abundanL berrycherry flavors lL was developed ln lrance by !oannes Seyve
who gave lL Lhe hybrld number !S 26203
Chancellor Chancellor ls known for lLs rlch plumcedar aroma lf frequenL mlldew aLLacks can be
conLrolled ln Lhe vlneyard Chancellor can be a bounLlful producer ClusLers are long and loose wlLh
medlumslze berrles LhaL rlpen ln mldseason Chancellor wlne ls dense ln rubyvloleL color heavy
bodled and can be qulLe asLrlngenL unless Lannlns are Lamed ln oak 1hls culLlvar orlglnally known as
Selbel 7033 ls one of Lhe mosL successful remalnlng from Lhe many Lhousands of crosses made by
AlberL Selbel ln Lhe Landes reglon of lrance (souLh of 8ordeaux) durlng Lhe laLe 1800s
Marechal loch (MA88shawl lCPSP) 1hls ls a culLlvar LhaL rlpens early wlLh Llny berrles LlghLly
compacLed ln small clusLers Made from earlyharvesL frulL young loch wlne can exhlblL a moderaLe
crlmson hue and dellclous cranberrycurranL flavors llrsL ldenLlfled as kuhlmann 1882 Lhls hybrld
culLlvar was developed by Lugene kuhlmann ln Lhe Alsace reglon of lrance
P S18uCCLlnC vlnL 1PLC8?
lL ls unlversally accepLed by flne wlne growers LhaL Lhe besL wlnes are made from grapes whlch are
harvesLed from vlnes whlch sLruggle for exlsLence 1hls ls apLly known as Lhe sLruggllng vlne Lheory
1here may be a sclenLlflc basls for Lhls Lheory ln LhaL Lhe slze of grape berrles rlpened on vlnes
culLlvaLed ln rlgorous solls and cllmaLes ls smaller as would be expecLed Smaller berrles have a greaLer
raLlo of skln surface area Lo LoLal volume Lhan do larger berrles ln LhaL mosL of Lhe color and flavor of
wlnes ls exLracLed from Lhe sklns of grapes lL sLands Lo reason LhaL Lhere would also be more colorful
and flavorful wlnes made from smaller berrles ConsequenLly many of Lhe worlds greaLesL vlneyards
are found on sLeep sLony hlllsldes and oLher envlrons LhaL would be consldered unaccepLable for mosL
any oLher form of agrlculLure
P WlnL CCMCSl1lCn
Clven LhaL waLer sugars and mosL alcohols have no flavor noLe LhaL 1able 11 lndlcaLes LhaL only abouL
2 Lo 3 percenL of Lhe LoLal grape composlLlon accounLs for Lhe flavor dlfference beLween Lhe very flnesL
of wlnes and Lhe pooresL noLe also LhaL waLer conLenL lncreases durlng fermenLaLlon 1hls ls due
prlmarlly Lo Lhe LmbdenMeyerhof reacLlon whlch dlverLs some of Lhe sugars Lo Lhe producLlon of lacLlc
acld creaLlng waLer as a byproducL ln addlLlon yeasLs produce enzymes LhaL converL pyruvlc acld Lo
carbon dloxlde gas and waLer
C8CAnlC ACluS
Crganlc aclds prlnclpally LarLarlc and mallc aclds comblne Lo form Lhe LarLness of a wlne (noL sourness
whlch lmplles spollage) normally abouL one Lhlrd of Lhe LoLal acldlLy ls losL because of fermenLaLlon
much as a resulL of LarLraLe crysLal formaLlon as explalned ln Lhe followlng paragraph Sour wlne ln
wlne Lerms called aceLlc ls spolled Lo vlnegar by aceLlc acld bacLerla SomeLlmes Lhls ls referred Lo as
volaLlle acldlLy ln LhaL such acldlLy can be dlsLllled
MlnL8ALS Anu ML1ALS
AlLhough mosL wlne mlnerals have a small nuLrlLlve value ln Lhe human dleL Lhey ofLen pose a sLablllLy
problem ln wlnemaklng oLasslum comblnes wlLh LarLarlc acld Lo form crysLals LhaL can preclplLaLe
ofLen mlsLaken for broken glass parLlcles by neophyLes Cver longer perlods of Llme calclum LarLraLes
can form ln slmllar fashlon buL wlLh much flner crysLalllzaLlon lron and copper can form hazellke
suspenslons called casse formaLlons 1oday mlneral analysls ls generally performed by flame
phoLomeLry ln whlch a wlne sample ls burned and preclse wavelengLhs of llghL are passed Lhrough Lhe
flame and quanLlfled by a recepLor devlce lor each mlneral Lhere ls a speclflc wavelengLh of llghL Lo
whlch lL ls senslLlve
PLnCLS PLnCLlCS Anu CL?PLnCLS
As shown ln 1able 11 Lable wlnes are composed of abouL 86 percenL waLer and 11 percenL eLhyl
alcohol leavlng only 3 percenL of Lhe remalnlng componenLs Lo accounL for color flavor and body A
ma[or group of compounds found ln Lhls small buL essenLlal porLlon of wlne are called phenols
someLlmes referred Lo as phenollc subsLances and/or Lannlns 1echnlcally each Lerm refers Lo a dlffer
enL subsLance 1he chemlsLry of Lhese sLrucLures ls very complex and dlverse each havlng lmporLanL
relaLlonshlps ln wlnemaklng
henols refer Lo Lhe fundamenLal form of phenlc acld phenyllc acld and oxybenzene A phenol very
common Lo wlne ls hydroxybenzene henollcs are more complex sLrucLures formed from prlmary
phenols such as ln rlpenlng grapes and maLurlng wlnes 1annlns are condensed glanL phenollc polymers
whlch can be preclplLaLed by proLelns such as Lhe mucoproLelns on Lhe human palaLe accounLlng for
Lhe puckery asLrlngenL effecL when hlghLannln wlnes are LasLed
?eL anoLher famlly of phenollcs are exLracLed by aglng wlnes ln barrels 1hese are varled owlng Lo Lhe
specles of oak selecLed Lhe lnLenslLy of LoasLlng glven durlng consLrucLlon and Lhe raLlo of
Llme/LemperaLure employed ln Lhe cellar
1he enLlre famlly of phenols phenollcs and Lannlns can be referred Lo as polyphenols Cn average
abouL 63 percenL of grape polyphenols are found ln Lhe seeds 22 percenL ln Lhe sLems and 12 percenL
ln Lhe sklns whereas only 1 percenL ls ln Lhe pulp 1he quallLy and quanLlLy of polyphenols ln grapes ls
deLermlned by specles and varleLy vlneyard locale and cellar managemenL
olyphenols are caLegorlzed lnLo Lwo ma[or groups flavonolds and nonflavonolds llavonolds are large
polymer molecules LhaL lnclude wlne color Lannlns and resveraLrol and querceLln compounds among
many oLhers nonflavonolds are generally smaller molecules prlmarlly assoclaLed wlLh oak flavor
exLracLs such as clnnamlc acld and vanllllc acld
CCLC8
1he plgmenLaLlon ln grape sklns whlch evenLually deLermlnes wlne color are phenollc flavonolds called
anLhocyanlns 1hese are a group of flve closely relaLed anLhocyanldln compounds consLrucLed ln
comblnaLlon wlLh sugar resldues called [[lucosldes 1here are monoglucosldes havlng a slngle sugar
resldue and dlglucosldes wlLh Lwo AnLhocyanldlns decompose raLher rapldly wlLhouL a glucoslde
componenL ConsequenLly Lhe sLablllLy of wlne color ls largely dependenL on Lhe anLhocyanln glucoslde
sLrucLure
lL ls prlnclpally Lhe monoglucoslde form LhaL ls assoclaLed wlLh wlnes made from vlLls vlnlfera grapes
Lhls ls generally more sLable Lhan Lhe dlglucoslde form ldenLlfled wlLh Lhe red muscadlne varleLles
belonglng Lo Lhe vlLls roLundlfolla specles A varylng denslLy of purple hues ls Lyplcal of Lhe
predomlnance of Lhe monoglucoslde anLhocyanln malvldln ln CaberneL Sauvlgnon MerloL and oLher
vlnlferas Some vlLls labrusca Lypes such as Concord also possess a slgnlflcanL level of monoglucoslde
malvldln buL ln concerL wlLh Lhe oLher four monoglucoslde anLhocyanlns cyanldln delphlnldln
peonldln and peLunldln Pybrld grapes such as Lhe lrenchAmerlcan culLlvars each have a speclflc phe
nollc color proflle lnherlLed from Lhelr breedlng llnes
Color can be enhanced however by employlng Lhe salgnee sysLem of musL concenLraLlon pracLlced ln
some Luropean wlnegrowlng reglons Some porLlon of Lhe freerun [ulce ls separaLed from Lhe freshly
pressed musL and processed as blush wlne or as sparkllng wlne blanc de nolrs componenLs or for
blendlng 1he remalnlng pomace ls Lhen elLher fermenLed by lLself or added Lo oLher crushed grapes of
Lhe same Lypes Lo lncrease Lhe poLenLlal for lncreased plgmenL exLracLlon LxacLlng conLrol over Lhe
exLenL of exLracLlon ls necessary Lo avold generaLlng dlsLorLed flavor proflles and saLuraLed
concenLraLlons of phenollcs as well as excesslve asLrlngency blLLerness and evenLual color preclplLaLes
A slmpler meLhod Lo achleve red wlne color enhancemenL ls Lhe slmple blendlng of a LelnLurler a
dense lnky wlne made from Salvador Colobel and oLher heavlly plgmenLed grape varleLles SomeLlmes
colorrlch press wlne fracLlons (red wlne exLracLed from fermenLed red grape musL under heavy
pressure) are employed ln a slmllar manner vlnLners dlffer ln Lhelr approach Lo Lhls maLLer as some
feel LhaL Lhe blend sLrays from Lhe ldeals of varleLal purlLy and oLhers polnL ouL LhaL many classlc reds
such as 8ordeaux are Lhemselves blends of dlfferenL varleLles
new producLs made posslble by membrane separaLlon processlng Lechnlques have resulLed ln Lhe
lsolaLlon of concenLraLed plgmenLs ln reLenLaLe form AlLhough Lhls may ralse slmllar lssues regardlng
varleLal purlLy Lhere ls far less concern as comparaLlvely llLLle plgmenL ls requlred Lo achleve favorable
resulLs
lLAvC8S
1he llLeraLure ofLen refers Lo chemlcal sLrucLures of flavor and an lncreaslng amounL of casual dlscusslon
cenLers on flavor chemlsLry Cne of Lhe mosL advanced wlne flavor sources ls !ean Lenolr who
manufacLures Lhe he nez uu vln (1he nose of Wlne) aroma ldenLlflcaLlon klLs whlch are hlghly recom
mended for Lhe neophyLe and even for more advanced enophlles
Wlne flavors are caLegorlzed lnLo four ma[or groups rlmary floral and frulL aromas are generally
composed of Lerpene alcohol and/or esLer compounds rlmary vegeLal aromas are Lyplcally ldenLlfled
blochemlcally as one or anoLher carbonyl groups and prlmary wood aromas are usually phenollc
sLrucLures
1here are of course bad flavors ln bad wlnes Among Lhese are burnL maLch roLLen eggs and skunky
LasLes assoclaLed wlLh sulfur resldues CLhers are vlnegar and palnLLhlnner pungency resulLlng from
bacLerlal spollage SLlll oLhers are prunellke flavors assoclaLed from some porLlon of Lhe grapes havlng
decayed
1he enLlre specLrum of wlne aromas and flavors are dlscussed ln ChapLer 3 nl18CCLnCuS
CCMCunuS
noLe ln 1able 11 LhaL abouL half of Lhe nlLrogen compounds ln grapes remaln ln Lhe resulLlng wlne
owlng Lo Lhe heavy demand made by yeasLs durlng fermenLaLlon Wlnemakers are concerned wlLh Lhe
amounL of proLeln remalnlng as lL can form a haze LhaL ls dlfflculL Lo remove Samples of wlne are
exposed Lo hlgher LemperaLures for several days ln order Lo deLermlne Lhe llkellhood of Lhls haze
formlng lf more deflnlLlve quanLlLaLlve analyses are requlred LesLlng ls usually done by laboraLorles
havlng greaLer Lechnlcal capaclLy
Ll WlnL MlC8C8lCLCC? ?LAS1S
1here are plenLy of naLural or wlld mlcroscoplc yeasLs ln Lhe cuLln of grape sklns 1he cuLln ofLen
called Lhe bloom ls a waxy coaLlng on grape sklns
Clven Lhe paLlence we can remove Lhe bloom from grapes ln much Lhe same way we can shlne an
apple
lL was 1heodor Schwann who flrsL dlscovered LhaL Lhe LransformaLlon of sugar Lo alcohol ln
fermenLaLlon was caused by a sugar fungus Lhe Saccharomyces organlsm Louls asLeur publlshed a
paper ln 1837 reporLlng hls observaLlon of a slmllar mlcroscoplc organlsm LhaL was responslble for wlne
fermenLaLlon rlor Lo Lhls Llme fermenLaLlon was LhoughL Lo have been due Lo a phenomenon known as
sponLaneous generaLlon loosely relaLed Lo varlous forms of maglc 1he Pellenlc Creeks called
fermenLaLlon zesLos (bolllng) from whlch Lhe Lerm yeasL was derlved 1hus Lhe dlsclpllne of
mlcroblology was born ln lrance largely ln response Lo asLeurs curloslLy abouL wlne fermenLaLlon
?easLs are eggshaped cells abouL 1/300000 of an lnch ln lengLh 8ecause Lhey lack sLems leaves rooLs
and chlorophyll yeasLs are referred Lo as lowerform planLs ln Lhe LumulL of fermenLaLlon Lhey can
reproduce once every half hour or soa raLe LhaL can generaLe a huge populaLlon ln a relaLlvely shorL
perlod of Llme
Wlld yeasLs may or may noL perform Lhe fermenLaLlon funcLlon adequaLely Saccharomyces aplculaLa
are as Lhe name suggesLs aplculaLed wlLh lrregular shapes polnLed aL one or boLh ends 1hese and
oLher naLural yeasLs can lose vlablllLy aL some polnL well before fermenLaLlon ls compleLed Lhe resulLlng
wlne ls resldually sweeL and unbalanced 1here ls an addlLlonal hazard ln LhaL some sLralns are also
spollage yeasLs LhaL can foul a wlne wlLh a vlnegar (aceLlc acld) or palnLLhlnner (eLhyl aceLaLe)
flavor Lven so many classlc wlnes are sLlll fermenLed wlLh naLural yeasLs
?easLs are Laxonomlcally classlfled as follows
hylum
Subphylum
Class
Subclass
Crder
lamlly
Subfamlly
Cenera
1hallophyLa
lungl
LumyceLes
AscomyceLes
LndomyceLales
SaccharomyceLaceae
Saccharomycoldeae
Saccharomyces
Saccharomyces cerevlslae ls Lhe specles wlLhln whlch Lhe mosL lmporLanL culLured wlne fermenLaLlon
yeasLs are found 1he varleLy elllpsoldeus has many sLralns avallable for commerclal vlnLners Among
Lhese are Champagne Lpernay MonLracheL and SLelnberg offered ln dehydraLed pelleLs whlch are
sLlrred ln warm waLer by wlnemakers [usL prlor Lo lnoculaLlon lnLo new grape [ulce or musL for
fermenLaLlon AnoLher common cholce Loday are klller yeasLs such as rlsse de Mousse whlch have
Lhe abllllLy Lo overpower wlld spollage yeasLs
Alcohol ls as menLloned earller a byproducL of fermenLaLlon and mosL culLured yeasLs have dlfflculLy
remalnlng vlable ln concenLraLlons of alcohol exceedlng 14 percenL
MosL wlne yeasLs grow ln suspenslon LhroughouL Lhe enLlre volume of fermenLlng [ulce 1here are
however also surfacegrowlng yeasLs deflned as Saccharomyces beLlcus more ofLen referred Lo as flor
yeasLs 1hese mlcroorganlsms serve Lo Lransform alcohol lnLo aldehyde and furfural compounds LhaL are
somewhaL caramel and nuLllke ln flavor 1hls process occurs ln madelrlzed wlnes Lyplcal ln Madelra
and Sherry wlnes CLher surfacegrowlng yeasLs such as Lhe general Candlda kloeckera and plchla are
spollage Lypes LhaL can cause raLher dlrLy or musLy off flavors
llCu8L 19 LlecLron mlcroscope phoLo of Saccharomyces cerevlslae yeasL cells and AceLobacLer aceLl
bacLerla (lnseL) (CourLesy of Mlsslsslppl SLaLe unlverslLy)
8AC1L8lA
llCu8L 110 LlecLron mlcroscope phoLo of 8oLryLls clnerea (hoLo by ConsLance 8owlnskl and 8ruce
8ordelon)
1he mlcrobes mosL feared by wlne masLers are Lhe vlnegar bacLerla more properly known as
AceLobacLer or aceLlc acld bacLerla lorLunaLely we know LhaL Lhese onecelled organlsms requlre
oxygen Lo grow a condlLlon LhaL can be conLrolled ln wellequlpped wlnerles 1he mosL common sLraln
of vlnegar bacLerla ls AceLobacLer aceLl alLhough AceLobacLer pasLeurlanus and AceLobacLer peroxydans
are also ldenLlfled
AnoLher Lype of wlne bacLerla can be beneflclal Lo some wlnes and deLrlmenLal Lo oLhers 1hese are Lhe
wellknown malolacLlc bacLerla whlch as Lhelr name suggesLs Lransform mallc acld Lo lacLlc acld
along wlLh carbon dloxlde gas as a byproducL Mallc acld ls an organlc acld LhaL has a raLher applellke
flavor wheras lacLlc acld has somewhaL of a cheesy characLer LeuconosLoc oenos ls Lhe mosL wldely
culLured sLraln of malolacLlc bacLerla and ls ofLen employed Lo add complexlLy Lo red wlnes and Lhe
heavler whlLe wlnes
LacLobaclllus brevls ls one of several malolacLlc bacLerla specles LhaL may lnfecL wlne wlLh a malady
known as Lourne 1hls can devasLaLe acldlLy leavlng a wlne lnslpld and llfeless AnoLher of Lhe spollage
bacLerla ls LacLobaclllus bucbnerl whlch produces boLh lacLlc and aceLlc acld resulLlng ln a harsh
pungenL wlne a condlLlon someLlmes referred Lo by Lhe lrench as plqure lacLlque
edlococcus cerevlslae bacLerla produce hlsLamlne ln some wlnes predomlnanLly red Lable wlnes
PlsLamlne ls an organlc compound LhaL sLlmulaLes blood clrculaLlon and may play a role ln nasal
sLufflness headache and some allerglc reacLlons
A wlne spollage LhaL Lhe lrench call vlns fllanL or gralsse ls also known as amerLume ln Amerlca 1hls
dlsorder resulLs from Lhe acLlon of LeuconosLoc mesenLeroldes whlch produces acroleln a very blLLer
compound LhaL ls hlghly lrrlLaLlng Lo human nasal passages
MCLuS
AlLhough vlLlculLurlsLs may have Lo conLend wlLh such molds as black roL downy mlldew powdery
mlldew and oLhers ln Lhe vlneyard from year Lo year Lhere are few molds LhaL dlrecLly affecL Lhe
flnlshed wlne ln Lhe wellmanaged wlnery owdery mlldew ls also known as Lhe dread oldlum mold
whlch devas
luLL? 8oLryLls clnerea 8L88lLS 8LCCML
8lLnLu MCLu L8MLA1LS CCnCLn18A1Lu Wl1P
8L88? 8L88? SklnSWA1L8 SWLL1nLSS CCLC8
LvAC8A1LS ln1C Anu lLAvC8
A1MCSPL8L
LaLed vlneyards ln boLh Lurope and Amerlca durlng much of Lhe nlneLeenLh cenLury ln general such
molds unchecked can damage Lhe frulL whlch ln Lurn may serlously deLerloraLe Lhe resulLlng wlne
quallLy
1he famous noble mold or more properly 8oLryLls clnerea ls an excepLlon When deslred and when
grown ln opLlmal condlLlons Lhls fuzzy gray mold permeaLes grape sklns and allows lnLernal waLer Lo
evaporaLe 1he resulLlng berrles are shrlveled wlLh concenLraLed Lannlns and sugars Such grapes make
Lhe renowned pourrlLure noble (noble mold) wlnes of SauLernes ln 8ordeaux lrance and Ldelfaule
wlnes ln Cermany Many slmllar laLeharvesL wlnes of boLh Lypes are also grown ln Amerlca 1he loss of
naLural grape waLer and Lhe dellcaLe Lechnlques requlred ln maklng such wlnes successfully renders
Lhem expenslve dellcacles
WlLh unexpecLed ralns or lmproper handllng ln Lhe vlneyard boLryLlzed berrles may also become
lnfecLed wlLh enlcllllum expansumnoL Lo be confused wlLh Lhe enlcllllum noLaLum of medlclnal
fame AL flrsL lL can be observed as a whlLe powderllke dusL on grape berrles evenLually maLurlng Lo an
omlnous blulshgreen mold Wlnes can be rulned wlLh Lhe compound Lrlchoroanlsole (1CA) whlch ls
formed ln corks lnfecLed wlLh Lhls mlcroorganlsm
varlous specles of 8hlzopus molds can be found ln many wlnegrowlng reglons and are generally
assoclaLed wlLh summer bunch roL ln vlneyards 1hese molds can acL ln fermenLaLlon much llke spollage
yeasLs converLlng sugars Lo eLhanol and carbon dloxlde gas under Lhe mlcroscope Lhese are seen as
spherlcal sacs aL Lhe end of Lhreadllke sporanglophores and are someLlmes referred Lo as pln molds
P WlnL CLASSlllCA1lCn Anu 8CuuC1lCn ML1PCuS
8LCuLA1lCn
ln Amerlca wlne ls regulaLed naLlonally by Lhe 8ureau of Alcohol 1obacco and llrearms (A1l)
Powever producLlon ls far less regulaLed ln Lhe unlLed SLaLes Lhan ln some Luropean counLrles ln
lrance for example Lhe varleLles of vlne planLed Lhe manner ln whlch Lhey are culLlvaLed maxlmum
ylelds and Lhe Lype of wlne made from Lhose ylelds are all sLrlcLly conLrolled ln Lhe unlLed SLaLes A1l
wlne regulaLlons are dlrecLed more Loward markeLlng conLrol wlLh llmlLs on how wlnes may be labeled
adverLlsed promoLed sold and consumed Wlne ls classlfled ln flve caLegorles
1able
Sparkllng
uesserL
AperlLlf
op
1he dlsLlncLlons beLween Lhe classes are based prlmarlly on dlfferences ln Lhelr manner of vlnlflcaLlon
1A8LL WlnLS
1he overwhelmlng ma[orlLy of Lhe wlne produced ln Lhe world falls lnLo Lhe Lable wlne caLegory 1hese
wlnes range from Lhe obscure and ordlnary Lo Lhe mosL expenslve and celebraLed classlcs As Lhe name
suggesLs Lable wlnes are deslgned for use aL Lhe Lable as a complemenL Lo good food lor Lhe same rea
son Lable wlnes are someLlmes referred Lo as dlnner wlnes
1here are whlLe blush (plnk) and red wlnes whlch are Lhe base wlnes needed Lo make every oLher
wlne Lype AlLhough neophyLes may prefer wlnes wlLh a llLLle sweeLness Lhe overwhelmlng preference
among veLeran wlne consumers ls for dry wlnes Sugar blunLs crlsp acldlLy and has a Lendency Lo mask
dellcaLe wlne flavors
1able wlnes may be generlc proprleLary or varleLal Cenerlc wlnes are labeled for Lhe geographlc area
ln whlch Lhey are grown such as 8urgundy 8ordeaux Champagne Callfornla or new ?ork SLaLe A1l
regulaLlons permlL Lhe commerclal use of a selecL llsL of Luropean generlc names by uS vlnLners such
as new ?ork SLaLe Champagne Such use ls conLroverslal and consldered by many Lo be consumer
decepLlon
roprleLary wlnes are glven unlque names by Lhelr vlnLner such as !amesLown WhlLe MarLhas
8lush Pamburger 8ed and so forLh
varleLal wlnes are labeled for Lhe varleLy of grape predomlnanLly used ln Lhelr producLlon such as
Chardonnay lnoL nolr or CaberneL Sauvlgnon Luropean wlnes are Lyplcally generlc Lhelr ldenLlLy
belng geographlc Pere are a few examples of generlc wlnes along wlLh Lhe varleLals LhaL are culLlvaLed
ln Lhe deslgnaLed reglons
Cenerlc varleLal
CoLe dCr (8urgundy ln lrance) lnoL nolr
Among Lhe mosL wldely en[oyed Amerlcan Lable wlnes are Lhe [ug wlnes LhaL can be found ln mosL
markeLs unforLunaLely Lhese ofLen have less Lhan compllmenLary repuLaLlons owlng Lo Lhe myLh LhaL
only expenslve wlnes can be good 1here are ln facL some greaL bargalns awalLlng Lhose who seek
Lhem ouL
!ug wlnes are deflned as any wlnes commerclally markeLed ln a conLalner of 13 llLers capaclLy or larger
Wlnes offered ln Lhe baglnabox package can also loosely be consldered [ug wlnes MosL [ug offerlngs
are Callfornla generlc and varleLal Lable wlnes a few are from easLern Amerlcan and Luropean vlnLners
1o some exLenL [ug wlnes eplLomlze Lhe many advances ln wlne producLlon Lechnology 8esearch has
meL consumer demands for freshness flavor and overall appeal wlLh new Lechnlques LhaL allow wlnes
Lo be made more qulckly aL less cosL 1o Lhese speclflc ends [ug wlnes are prlmarlly deslgned for
lmmedlaLe consumpLlon and usually do noL lmprove wlLh boLLle aglng Cne frequenLly hears LhaL [ug
wlnes are Amerlcas answer Lo Lhe ordlnary wlnes of Lurope
A1l rules requlre Lable wlnes Lo have an alcohol conLenL noL exceedlng 14 percenL by volume
Commerclal Lable wlnes musL remaln ln bond (federal exclse LaxlL1unpald) aL Lhe wlnery unLll
$107 per gallon lL1 ls pald Lo Lhe A1l vlnLners produclng less Lhan 100000 gallons per calendar year
pay a
WhlLe 1able Wlnes
Alsace (lrance) Chablls (8urgundy ln lrance) Sancerre (Lolre ln lrance) Craves (8ordeaux ln lrance)
8helngau (Cermany) CrvleLo (umbrla ln lLaly)
CewurzLramlner Chardonnay Sauvlgnon 8lanc Semlllon
!ohannlsberg 8lesllng 1rebblano
8ed 1able Wlnes
8arolo (ledmonL ln lLaly) 8eau[olals (8urgundy ln lrance) Medoc (8ordeaux ln lrance) omerol
(8ordeaux ln lrance) ChlanLl (1uscany ln lLaly)
nebblolo Camay
CaberneL Sauvlgnon
MerloL
Sanglovese
raLe of $17 per gallon lL1 vlnLners produclng annually more Lhan 100000 gallons up Lo 230000
gallons are sub[ecLed Lo a slldlng scale
1he baslc prlnclples of Lable wlne producLlon are raLher sLralghLforward neverLheless capLurlng Lhe
preclous naLural flavors from hlghquallLy grapes can be a mysLlfylng and frusLraLlng Lask
Across Lhe global range of whlLe Lable wlnes one can flnd examples varylng ln color from very pale
almosL colorless green Lo raLher dense golden hues SweeLness can vary from bone dry Lo very sweeL
and acldlLy from lnslpld Lo puckery LarL 1here ls every lmaglnable shade of blush or plnk or rose wlLh
slmllar sweeLness and acldlLy balances as ln Lhe whlLes 1here are many hues of red wlne
plgmenLaLloncrlmson ruby and scarleLeach Loned wlLh shades of purple ln youLh and Lawnyamber
aL maLurlLy 1he reds are almosL always dry or nearly so and Lhe classlcs ofLen have flrm acld sLrucLure
and Lannlc asLrlngency whlch ensure longLerm aglng poLenLlal
vlnLners ln Amerlca AusLralla Chlle and oLher counLrles ln Lhe new World are free Lo produce Lable
wlnes ln almosL any comblnaLlon of Lhese quallLles Lhey choose provldlng of course LhaL cellar
LreaLmenLs and label graphlcs meeL Lhe sLandards enforced by regulaLlons whlch are ofLen updaLed
Luropean wlnegrowers dependlng on Lhe counLry and reglon have far less freedom owlng Lo long
Lerm LradlLlon whlch governmenLs malnLaln as comparaLlvely rlgld lnLerpreLaLlons of Lhe deslred wlne
quallLles

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