Notes de dégustation - Automne / Hiver 2018

Vignerons passionnés depuis 7 générations

 $

Vinous by Antonio Galloni

Extra-Brut Ultradition 90/100 Les Empreintes 2012 95/100

Brut Ultradition 90/100
Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature 94/100
Les Vignes d’Autrefois 2014 94/100
Les Longues Voyes 2014 95/100
Les Grandes Crayères 2014 96/100
Les 7 92/100
Rosé Ultradition 89/100
Rosé de Meunier 94/100
Les Beaudiers 95/100
Demi-Sec Grande Reserve 90/100

Wine Advocate by Stephen Reinhardt

Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature 91/100 Rosé de Meunier 90/100

Les 7 93/100 Extra Brut Ultradition 92/100

$ $

Revue des Vins de France Le Point par Jacques Dupont

Les Empreintes 2012 16.5/20 Les Longues Voyes 18/20

Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature 15.5/20 Les Empreintes 2012 17.5/20

Meininger Sommelier par Sascha Speicher

Les Empreintes 2012 94/100

Les Longues Voyes Blanc de Noirs Premier Cru 92/100
Les Grandes Crayères 2014 93/100

Wein Plus

Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature 94/100

Les Beaudiers 90/100
Les 7 93/100
 $

- Vinous - Antonio Galloni

These Champagnes reinforce my strongly held view that Aurélien Laherte is

one of the most talented vignerons of his generation in Champagne. The
range this year is truly stellar. Some of the highlights include the Brut Nature
Blanc de Blancs (2014 this year), a wine I often buy for my own cellar, the
2014 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Grandes Crayères, which is new, and the
(2014) Extra Brut Rosé de Saignée Les Baudiers. Readers who have not tasted
these Champagnes owe it to themselves do so. Aurélien Laherte is young,
passionate and humble. It is only a matter of time before he is recognized as
one of Champagne's elite vignerons. As for the wines, they are spectacular.

Extra-Brut Ultradition : The NV Extra Brut Ultradition is an attractive, entry-

level wine from Laherte. Dried flowers, dried red cherry, pear, nut and herbs
give the wine a distinctive savory profile to match its mid-weight personality.
The Extra Brut Ultradition is persistent and energetic, with the slight savory
quality that is common in so many 2015-base NV Champagnes. The low
dosage style seems to really bring out the weight and texture of the Meunier
that forms the core of this bottling. 90 / 100

Brut Ultradition : The NV Brut Ultradition shows more of a bright, citrus-driven

flavor profile than the Ultradition Brut NV. Medium in body, finely cut and
energetic, the Ultradition Brut is wonderfully polished from the very first taste.
The addition of 6-8 grams dosage softens some of the angularity found in the
Extra Brut version. 90 / 100

Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature : The NV (2014) Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs is
once again one of the stars in the range, not to mention an absolutely insane
value in the world of fine wine. Bright, sculpted and classy to the core, the
2014 dazzles from the very first taste. Citrus, mineral and floral notes abound
in this super-expressive, finely-cut Blanc de Blancs. Crystalline and energetic,
the Blanc de Blancs has so much to offer. The 2014 is a more than worthy
follow up to the stellar 2013. 94 / 100
Les Vignes d’Autrefois 2014 : The 2014 Extra Brut Vignes d’Autrefois, 100%
Meunier, is powerful and radiant on the palate, with tremendous depth and
exceptional overall balance. Mirabelle, kirsch, dried herbs, dried pear and
spice notes are front and center. Ethereal, light on its feet and also quite
exotic, the 2014 is superb. I would prefer to drink it over the next handful of
years. This is a compelling expression of Meunier. 94 / 100

Les Longues Voyes 2014 : The 2014 Extra Brut Blanc de Noirs Les Longues
Voyes 1er Cru, 100% Pinot Noir, is superb. An arching, majestic wine, the
2014 has so much to offer. Dried pear, smoke, licorice, mint and spice all soar
from the glass. The purity of the fruit is simply striking. Vertical and soaring in
its expression, the 2014 has so much to offer. The phenomenally long finish
only adds to the wine's allure. This is a tremendous showing. 95 / 100

Les Grandes Crayères 2014 : Here in its first release, the 2014 Extra Brut Blanc
de Blancs Les Grandes Crayères 1er Cru is another fabulous wine from
Aurelien Laherte. Powerful in the glass, the 2014 possesses striking textural
depth and resonance. This is an especially potent, structured expression of
Chardonnay. I loved it. 96 / 100

Les Empreintes 2012: The 2012 Extra Brut Les Empreintes is yet another
compelling wine in this range Aurélien Laherte. Radiant and super-expressive
on the palate, with tremendous richness, the Empreintes dazzles from start to
finish. Bright saline notes add tension to the sculpted finish in a Champagne
that delivers the goods big time. Les Empreintes is a blend of 50% Pinot Noir
from Les Chemins d'Epernay planted in 1957 and 50% Chardonnay from Les
Rouges Maisons, both in Chavot, planted in 1957 and 1983 respectively. In a
word: superb. 95 / 100

Les 7 : The NV Les 7 (2005-2015) is a blend of the seven permitted varieties in

Champagne based on 2015 with 40% of a perpetual solera that goes back to
2005. The combination of varieties and wines yields a Champagne of
uncommon complexity. Dried pear, citrus peel, sage and herb notes build in
in a bright, tense Champagne that grows in the glass, finishing with lovely
textural balance and silkiness. Like so many wines based on 2015, Les 7 has a
slight vegetal quality that is perceptible but not overpowering. 92 / 100
Rosé Ultradition : The NV Brut Ultradition Rosé is a powerful, super-resonant
wine endowed with real class and character. Bright cranberry, raspberry, white
flowers and chalk abound in this super-expressive, brisk, nervous Rosé. A
slight vegetal note peeks out from time to time. Otherwise, this is very nicely
done. The Ultradition Rosé is a blend of 60% Meunier vinified off the skins,
30% saignée and 10% still red wine, equal parts 2016 and 2015 vintages. It is
interesting that Ultradition Rosé, essentially the same wine as the Extra Brut
Rosé de Meunier, but with more dosage, is not anywhere as compelling as
that wine. 89 / 100

Rosé de Meunier : The NV Extra Brut Rosé de Meunier is endowed with

terrific energy, cut and focus. Readers should expect a taut, vibrant, yet also
weightless style of Rosé. Red berry, mint, white pepper and chalk notes are all
finely cut in this super-expressive, inviting Champagne from Aurélien Laherte.
The Rosé de Meunier is a blend of 60% Meunier vinified off the skins, 30%
saignée and 10% still red wine, a combination that works beautifully, equal
parts 2016 and 2015. 94 / 100

Les Beaudiers : The natural richness of the old vines confers unreal depth and
voluptuousness. Readers should expect a powerful, broad Champagne. In this
tasting, the Beaudiers is stunning. 95 / 100

Demi-Sec Grande Reserve : The 2012 Demi-Sec is a very pretty wine. Even
with 32 grams of sugar, Laherte's Demi-Sec is translucent and weightless, not
to mention absolutely impeccable in its balance. Orchard fruit and floral notes
are very nicely woven together in this very expressive, nuanced Champagne.
90 / 100

$
 - Wine Advocate - Stephen Reinhardt

Aurélien Laherte produces full-bodied yet pure, refined and vibrantly fresh
cuvées that need a certain amount of time after disgorgement to reveal their
true class and depth. In any case, these are authentic, expressive terroir wines
with style, thanks to sustainable viticulture with biodynamic methods. Massal
selection, immediate and delicate pressing, plot-by-plot vinification (there are
75 different plots, and 80% of the Estate’s wine are fermented and matured in
wooden vessels) and minimal dosage are key elements of Laherte’s « hands-
off » winemaking approach. The Les 7 remains the primus inter pares, but the
Ultradition is an exciting bridge between the delicate, terroir-driven Blanc de
Blancs and Les 7. The Rosé de Meunier is a fruity, round and firmly structured
Champagne for red wine lovers.

Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature : Drink date 2021-2033 - Sourced in four villages
of the Côte de Blancs and the Coteaux Sud d’Epernay and based on the 2013
and 2014 vintages, Laherte’s NV Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature is beautifully
pure, fine and flinty on the complex and terroir-driven nose. From 35+ year
old vines on shallow chalky soils and vinified in cuves, pièces and foudres, this
Blanc de Blancs is lean, pure and very mineral on the palate, with an intense,
firmly structured and persistently salty fizz with limestone grip and a still
somewhat dry but discreetly juicy finish. I suppose this is a long-distance
runner that will improve over the years in the bottle. 91/100

Les 7 Extra Brut : Drink date 2020-2030 - The NV Extra Brut Les 7 is a single-
parcel field blend of all seven authorized grape varieties which are picked,
pressed and vinified together (natural fermentation and aging in oak, no
malolactic). Lot L.15 is from a reserve perpétuelle that includes all the
vintages between 2005 and 2014. The wine opens with a clear, intense yet
fine and terribly fresh bouquet of ripe white and yellow-fleshed fruits along
with some earthy nose. Full bodied mouth-filling and dry, this is a firmly
structured cuvée that’s still a bit austere, with rich extract and a long, fruity
and still undevelopped finish. 93/100
Rosé de Meunier Extra Brut : Drink date 2020-2027 - The crazy pink colored
NV Extra Brut Rosé de Meunier is based on fully ripe Pinot Meunier grown on
calcareous clay soils rich in silex. 60% was fermented as Blanc de Noirs, 30%
as Rosé de macération and 10% as red wine, all in barriques and foudres. The
bouquet shows an intensely aromatic, clear, fresh and spicy bouquet of
redcurrant, raspberries and cherries. Mouthfilling and fruity but vibrantly fresh
on the dry and well-structured palate, this is a pure, persistent, pretty vinous
and elegant rosé with a long, aromatic finish and persistent expression. Still
young and with nice red wine features, this is a firm rosé but also a great
drinking pleasure alredy. 90/100

Extra Brut Ultradition : Drink date 2021-2028 – Based on the 2015 vintage
and 40% reserve wines, the NV Extra Brut Ultradition is an assemblage of 60%
Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir from eight villages and
terroirs in the Coteaux Sud d’Epernay and the Marne Valley. Vinified in cuves,
pièces and foudres and aged on lees for six months (with malolactic partly
done), this is a deep, pure and complex cuvée. Full-bodied, firm and very
mineral yet, fresh and pure on the salty palate, the finish reveals charming
richness and intense fruit but keeps the firm and chalky expression of this
impressive Extra Brut. I’d Keep this cuvée for another two or three years, but I
suppose it can also age for a decade. 92/100

- Revue des Vins de France -

Les Empreintes Extra Brut 2012 : Encore jeune, la bulle se calmera

tranquillement dans le verre pour laisser place à un beau bouquet de citron
confit. La fine oxydation ménagée donne du relief à une belle finale fumée.
Un beau champagne à boire au coin de la cheminée. 16.5/20

Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature : Amateurs de sensations fortes, voici un

chardonnay gainé, tout en muscles et d’une sensation crayeuse tannique
hyper revigorante. Un an en cave lui fera le plus grand bien.
15,5/20
 $

- Le Point - Jacques Dupont

Les Longues Voyes Extra Brut : Nez fruits noirs, touche de chêne qui souligne
les arômes, bouche vive, tendue, en finesse, savoureuse, tonique, un vin
d’une grande pureté. Très persistant. 18/20

Les Empreintes Extra Brut 2012 : 50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir. Nez
complexe ; abricot sec, poire, bouche large, élégante, savoureuse, tension,
vivacité et grande longueur. 17,5/20

- Meininger Sommelier - Sascha Speicher

Les Empreintes Extra Brut 2012 : Herbes séchées, chèvrefeuille, fleurs

blanches, melon, miel ; belle fraîcheur, notes de calcaire, corsé, dense,
absolument sans compromis et fascinant, droit. 94/100

Les Longues Voyes Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut Premier Cru : Controversé en
raison de son style puriste et direct, de son acidité racée, de ses fins arômes
boisés, ses notes d’orange, incroyablement exigeant, tendu et complexe.
92/100

Les Grandes Crayères Blanc de Blancs Extra brut 2014: Tarte aux agrumes,
pamplemousse, foin de montagne; Texture substantielle, mousse très fine,
notes finales acidulées et minérales, belle apparence. 93/100

$
 - Wein Plus -

Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature : Nez ferme, frais et complexe, fraicheur végétale
et de levure, quelques notes d'agrumes et de pomme, une pointe de beurre,
et de brioche, de légères nuances florales et une touche d'herbes. Clair, frais
et ferme dans la bouche; fruit léger, beaucoup de levure, arômes végétaux
frais légèrement fruités; notes de champignons. Salin, crayeux en arôme
tertiaire. Très fine mousse presque crémeuse, vin persistant, de bonne
profondeur, a du piquant et une belle adhérence. Des nuances florales en
arôme tertiaire, notes crayeuses, très bonne longueur. Vin élégant, juteux,
une finale ferme et aérée. Eclatant et remarquable. 93/100

Les Beaudiers : Nez clair, crémeux, frais, levure, fruits rouges, arômes
d'agrumes, notes de noisette, notes florales, notes épicées. Belle fraicheur
des agrumes, fruit juteux, mousse élégante. Persistant, soyeux et vif, délicat,
style assez profond, élégant. Encore jeune, mais déjà très vif, rond, note de
cèdre et une finale ferme et juteuse. 90/100

Les 7 Extra Brut : Parfum profond et complexe, belle fraicheur, croquant et

floral, note d’agrume, de fruits à pépins, de brioche et une pointe de poivre.
Bouche ferme et jeune, belle fraicheur, notes florales avec des arômes de
levure prononcés. Vin persistant énergétique et vif. Mousse très fine,
persistante, notes minérales de bonne profondeur. Structuré, saisissant,
présentant une bonne longueur, élégant, juteux, salin, vif et floral avec
d’importantes notes de levure. 93/100

Vignerons passionnés depuis 7 générations