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Callahan

N O. 3 0 9 2 | E D I T I O N 2.0
The Callahan pants

Contents

A B O U T T H E PAT T E R N

Pattern Flats 04
Pattern & Fit Details 05
Supplies, Fabric & Measurements 07

G E T T I N G S TA RT E D

Pattern Inventory 09
Sewing Basics 10
Cutting Layouts 11
Glossary 14
Helpful Links 16

Se amwork Call ahan


INSTRUCTIONS

Identify and Mark Waistband Pieces 19


Interface Fly and Waistband 20
Staystitch Waistlines 21
Sew Front and Back Darts 22
Sew Pintucks 23
Assemble Patch Pockets 24
Attach Patch Pockets 26
Sew Back Rise 27
Assemble and Attach Fly 28
Sew Front Rise 29
Assemble and Attach Fly Guard 32
Sew Zipper Fly 33
Topstitch Fly 37
Sew Inseam 41
Sew Side Seams 42
Assemble Waistband 43
Attach Waistband 46
Make Buttonhole l Hand-Sew Button or Install 50
Jeans Button l Hem

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Pattern Flats
OUTSIDE FRONT OUTSIDE BACK

INSIDE FRONT INSIDE BACK

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Pattern & Fit Details

About the pattern: Every closet needs a pair of Note: Our misses
high-waisted pants! The Callahan pants feature darts in patterns are drafted for a
the front and back, wide cropped legs, a zip fly, and pin- C cup and curvy patterns
tucks from the upper thigh to the hem. And don’t forget are drafted for a DD cup.
those perfectly shaped patch pockets on the back. Both are drafted for a
height of 5'9".

MISSES FIT | S I Z E S 0-1 6 CURVY FIT | S I Z E S 1 8-2 6

EASE CHART MISSES CURVY

WAIST 3
/8" (10 mm) 1 3/8" (3.5 cm)

HIP 0" (0 mm) 0" (0 mm)

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The Callahan pants are a
perfect opportunity to sew
with stretch woven fabrics like
twills, suiting, and denim!

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Supplies, Fabric & Measurements

SUPPLIES & NOTIONS


All-purpose polyester
sewing thread

Sewing machine needle

1 coil/denim zipper (sizes 0 - 6:


7" (13 cm), sizes 8 - 26: 9" (18
cm))

One 5/8" (15 mm) jeans button


or sew-on button

/ yard (.7 meters) of


3 4

lightweight fusible knit


interfacing

Point turner

Optional: topstitching needle


and thread

M A I N FA B R I C
Skye is wearing size 4 Callahan pants, graded to
a size 6 at the hips and lengthened by 1 1/2”. Her Medium weight to heavy bottom
measurements are 34", 27 3/4"", 38". weight fabrics with a little
stretch, such as twill, linen,
suiting, corduroy, canvas, and
denim.

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Imperial
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26

BODY MEASUREMENTS (INCHES)

WAIST 25 26 27 28 29 30 1/2 32 34 36 39 41 43 45 47
HIP 35 36 37 38 39 40 1/2 42 44 46 50 52 54 56 58

FA B R I C R E Q U I R E D ( YA R D S )*

45" 2 1/2 2 1/2 2 1/2 2 1/2 2 5/8 2 5/8 2 5/8 2 5/8 2 3/4 2 7/8 2 7/8 2 7/8 3 3
60" 1 /3 4 1 /
3 4 1 /
3 4 1 /
7 8 1 /
7 8 1 /
7 8 1 /
7 8 2 2 2 /
5 8 2 /
5 8 2 /
3 4 2 /
3 4 2 3/4

FINISHED GARMENT (INCHES)

WAIST 25 3/8 26 3/8 27 3/8 28 3/8 29 3/8 30 7/8 32 3/8 34 3/8 36 3/8 40 3/8 42 3/8 44 3/8 46 3/8 48 3/8

HIP 35 1/4 36 1/4 37 1/4 38 1/4 39 1/4 40 3/4 42 1/4 44 1/4 46 1/4 50 52 54 56 58

THIGH* * 22 7/8 23 1/2 24 24 5/8 25 1/4 26 26 7/8 27 7/8 29 30 3/4 31 7/8 33 34 1/4 35 3/8

INSE AM 24 5/8 24 5/8 24 5/8 24 5/8 24 5/8 24 5/8 24 5/8 24 5/8 24 5/8 24 5/8 24 5/8 24 5/8 24 5/8 24 5/8

TOTAL RISE 28 1/2 29 29 1/2 30 30 1/2 31 31 1/2 32 32 1/2 33 3/4 34 1/2 35 3/8 36 1/4 37

Metric
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26

BODY MEASUREMENTS (CENTIMETERS)

WAIST 64 66 69 71 74 77 81 86 91 99 104 109 114 119


HIP 89 91 94 97 99 103 107 112 117 127 132 137 142 147

FA B R I C R E Q U I R E D ( M E T E R S )*

114 CM 2.3 2.3 2.3 2.3 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.5 2.6 2.6 2.6 2.7 2.7

152 CM 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.8 1.8 2.4 2.4 2.5 2.5 2.5

FINISHED GARMENT (CENTIMETERS)

WAIST 64.5 67 69.5 72 75 78.5 82 87 92.5 102.5 108 113 118 123

HIP 89.5 92 94.5 97 99.5 103.5 107 112 117.5 126.5 131.5 136.5 142 147

THIGH* * 58 59.5 61 62.5 64 66 68 71 73.5 78 81 84 87 90

INSE AM 62.5 62.5 62.5 62.5 62.5 62.5 62.5 62.5 62.5 62.5 62.5 62.5 62.5 62.5

TOTAL RISE 72.5 74 75 76.5 77.5 79 80 81 82.5 86 88 90 92 94

* Pattern layouts are nondirectional. Purchase additional yardage if using napped or printed fabrics.
**Thigh is measured 1" (2.5 cm) below the rise.

8
Pattern Inventory

B A C

F
G

D E

A Front right waistband E Back pant leg


B Front left waistband F Fly shield
C Back waistband G Patch pocket
D Front pant leg H Fly

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Sewing Basics

01 L A Y O U T Y O U R P A T T E R N P I E C E S : Lay out the


pattern pieces as shown in the cutting layout diagrams.
Start by placing the pieces that go along the fold. Then lay
out the other pieces, making sure the grainline arrow is
parallel to the selvage.

02 C U T Y O U R F A B R I C : If you are using a rotary cutter,


cut out the pattern pieces. If you are using fabric shears,
trace the pattern pieces and then cut them out, cutting
away any pen, pencil, or chalk lines. Remember to cut out
any notches that appear on the edges. These markings
help line up the pieces when you assemble the garment.

03 T R A N S F E R P A T T E R N M A R K I N G S : Use your
marking pen, pencil, or chalk to transfer the markings
(such as circles, buttonholes, and fold lines) to the wrong
side of the fabric. Mark the center front of pieces cut on
the fold, as this will help you to align pieces accurately.

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Cutting Layouts

Right side Wrong side Wrong side


of fabric of fabric of pattern

Seam allowances are included in the pattern. They are


a standard 5/8” (15 mm) for all seams, unless otherwise
noted in the instructions.

MAIN FABRIC (45") SIZES 0 - 12

fold

C C
D E

A
G B
F* H*

* CUT 1 selvage

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MAIN FABRIC (45") SIZES 14 - 26

fold

F*
C C
A
E
D
B
G H*

* CUT 1
selvage

MAIN FABRIC (60") SIZES 0 - 12

fold

D C C

H*

G A B
E
F*

* CUT 1
selvage

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MAIN FABRIC (60") SIZES 14 - 26

fold

C C
D E

F* A B
G
H*

* CUT 1
selvage

INTERFACING (25") ALL SIZES (GLUE SIDE DOWN)

C C

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Glossary

BAR TACK FINISH SEAM


A row of short stitches used to reinforce Treating an edge, such as a seam, so
areas of a garment that might be that it's no longer prone to fraying. There
stressed during wear. are many ways to finish a seam or other
raw edge, depending on the type of fabric
BACKSTITCH
chosen. For sturdier fabrics, trimming
Stitches sewn forward and back at the
seams with pinking shears prevents
beginning and/or the end of stitching in
fraying. For lighter fabrics, use a zigzag
order to anchor the thread.
along the edge. Or, try a turned-under
BASTE seam, a bound edge a serged edge.
Long stitches done by hand or machine
GRADE
that temporarily hold fabric in place
Grading helps make seams that are
before sewing. They are removed once
pressed in a single direction less bulky.
the final seam is in place.
After sewing the seam, trim the seam
CLIP allowance in half. Identify which seam
To help flatten a curved seam, snip allowance will be laying against the
at even intervals along the inner fabric, and trim this one in half again.
curve, being careful not to cut into
INTERFACING
the stitch line.
A layer of material added to part of a
DART garment to provide stiffness or stability.
A wedge shape that is stitched into It's usually sandwiched between layers of
fabric to create or control fullness in fabric so that it's not visible.
an area.

EDGESTITCH
A row of stitches sewn very close to the
seam line on the right side of the fabric.
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NOTCH SEAM ALLOWANCE
There are two types of notches. The The extra fabric that extends beyond the
notches on the pattern help to align seam line. Most garments have a 5/8"
pattern pieces when sewing. The other (15 mm) or 3/8" (10 mm)
type of notches are ones added to help seam allowance.
sew curves. Notch outer curves on a
seam by cutting wedge shapes into the STAYSTITCH
seam allowance at even intervals, being A line of stitching on a piece that helps

careful not to cut into the stitching. to stabilize the edge before it is sewn,
preventing it from becoming distorted.
PIVOT
TOPSTITCH
Method for sewing when reaching a
A row of stitches seen on the outside of
corner. Stop with the needle down at the
a garment.
corner, lift the presser foot, and rotate
the fabric. Lower the presser foot and
UNDERSTITCH
continue sewing in a new direction.
Understitching helps seams lie flat
and prevents facings and linings from
PRESS
rolling to the outside of your garment.
Placing an iron on fabric and applying
To understitch a facing, press the seam
pressure, without using the back-and-
allowance toward your facing. Stitch the
forth movement used in ironing.
seam allowance to the facing, very close
RIGHT SIDE/ WRONG SIDE to the seam line.
The right side of a fabric is the side that
will show on a finished garment. The
wrong side will be on the inside.

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Helpful Links
Our instructions include buttons that link to helpful tutorials.
Printing the instructions instead of reading them digitally?
All of the URLs we link to are listed here:

Techniques
QUICK TIPS: 5 TIPS FOR PERFECT PRESSING WHEN SEWING
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NWdDifTxj_g

PA N T S F I T T I N G B A S I C S
https://www.seamwork.com/issues/2019/03/pants-fitting-basics

A GUIDE TO SEWING DENIM


https://www.seamwork.com/issues/2017/04/a-guide-to-sewing-denim

H O W TO S H O RT E N A M E TA L Z I P P E R
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rvAGVeHvwFg&t=34s

I N S TA L L I N G D E N I M H A R D WA R E
https://www.seamwork.com/issues/2017/04/upgrade-your-sewing-5

H O W TO S E W S TA N DA R D DA RTS
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_h7yggPH5KM&t=17s

T O P S T I T C H E D D A R T S , T H R E E W AY S
https://www.seamwork.com/magazine/2018/04/topstitched-dartsthree-ways

W H Y Y O U S H O U L D S TAY S T I T C H
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=faeoZp0lzKI

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Resources
SEAMWORK HELP SITE
https://help.seamwork.com/

SEAMWORK YOUTUBE CHANNEL


https://www.youtube.com/c/seamworkvideo

THE CLASSROOM
https://www.seamwork.com/classroom

SNIPPETS BY SEAMWORK
https://www.seamwork.com/entry/snippets

SEAMWORK INSTRUCTIONS SURVEY


https://colettehq.typeform.com/to/jr089R

Social
SEAMWORK COMMUNITY
https://community.seamwork.com/forums

S E A M W O R K I N S TAG R A M
https://www.instagram.com/seamwork/

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Instructions

Seam allowances are included Finishing methods:


in the pattern. They are a Seam allowances can be
standard 5/8” (15 mm) for all finished separately with a
seams, unless otherwise noted zigzag stitch or serged edge.
in the instructions.

Right side Wrong side


Interfacing
of fabric of fabric

Get all of your pants fitting


tips here!

READ THE ARTICLE

Need to shorten a metal zipper?


Check out this tutorial!

WATCH THE VIDEO

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IDENTIFY AND MARK WAISTBAND PIECES

LEFT RIGHT

OUTER WAISTBAND PIECES


(RIGHT SIDE UP) B
A

LEFT RIGHT
INNER WAISTBAND PIECES
(RIGHT SIDE UP)
B A

1. Layout all four front waistband pieces, matching the above diagram.

2. The front right waistband (A) pieces, the ones with the buttonhole
marking, will be longer than the front left waistband (B) pieces, with
the button marking.

3. Mark the waistband pieces as inner and outer, matching the diagram
above, using chalk, tape, or a water soluble pen.

Sewing with denim? Get all of


your tips here!

READ THE ARTICLE

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INTERFACE FLY AND INNER WAISTBANDS

A B

1. Apply lightweight fusible interfacing to the wrong sides of the inner


front right waistband (A), front left waistband (B) and back waistband
(C) pieces according to the manufacturer's instructions.

2. Apply lightweight fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the fly (H)
piece according to the manufacturer's instructions.

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STAYSTITCH WAISTLINES

B B
D D

A A

C
E E

1. Staystitch along the waistlines of the front pant leg (D) and back pant
leg (E) pieces at 1/2" (13 mm).

2. Staystitch along the top and bottom edges of the front right waistband
(A), front left waistband (B), and back waistband (C) pieces at
/ " (13 mm).
1 2

Learn why staystitch is a step


you shouldn't skip!

WATCH THE VIDEO

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SEW FRONT AND BACK DARTS

1. Sew the front pant leg (D) darts


together. To do this, bring the right
sides of the dart legs together at the
waistline. Pin. Stitch from the waistline
to the dart tip, leaving long thread tails.
D
Do not backstitch. Tie the thread tails
together at the dart tip.

2. Press the darts towards the front rise.

3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 for sewing the


darts on the back pant leg (E) pieces.

Sewing darts for the first time? Give your darts a topstitched
Get all the information here! embellishment!

WATCH THE VIDEO READ THE ARTICLE

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SEW PINTUCKS

1. Fold the wrong sides of one front


pant leg (D) together vertically
between the circles. Press.

2. Stitch between the circles, 1/8" (3


D E mm) away from the fold.

3. Press the pintuck towards


the inseam.

4. Repeat steps 1 - 3 for the


remaining front pant leg (D) and
both back pant leg (E) pieces.

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ASSEMBLE PATCH POCKETS

1. Finish the edges of both patch pocket


G G
(G) pieces, but leave the top of the
pocket unfinished.

2. Fold the bottom edge of the patch


G pocket (G) to the wrong side at 5/8" (15
mm). Press.

3. Fold the bottom angled of the patch


G
pocket (G) to the wrong side at 5/8" (15
mm). Press.

G 4. Fold the sides of the patch pocket (G) to


the wrong side at 5/8" (15 mm). Press.

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5. Baste along the side, bottom, and
G
angled edges of the patch pocket (G) at
/ " (13 mm).
1 2

6. Fold the top edge of one patch pocket


(G) to the wrong side at 1/4"
G (6 mm). Press.

7. Fold the top edge to the wrong side


once more at 5/8" (15 mm). Press.

8. On the right side of the patch pocket


(G), topstitch 1/2" (13 mm) down from
G
the top fold line.

9. Repeat steps 2 - 8 for the second patch


pocket (G).

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ATTACH PATCH POCKETS

E
G

1. Align the corners of one patch pocket (G) with the circles on the one
back pant leg (E). Pin. Edgestitch around the sides and bottom of the
patch pocket (G).

2. Remove the basting stitches.

3. Optional: Sew bar-tacks or a triangle stitch along each side of the patch
pocket (G) opening.

4. Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the second patch pocket (G) and back pant
leg (E).

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SEW BACK RISE

1. With right sides together and notches aligned, match both back pant
leg (E) pieces together at the rise. Pin. Stitch.

2. Trim the seam allowances. Finish the seam allowances together and
press to the wearer's right side.

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ASSEMBLE AND ATTACH FLY

1. Finish the curved edge of the fly (H). Do


H not cut off any seam allowance.

First time sewing a zipper fly?


Check out our detailed tutorial!

WATCH THE VIDEO

H
2. With right sides together and circles
D
aligned, match the fly (H) to the left
LEFT SIDE front pant leg (D) piece. Pin. Stitch from
the waistline to the circle at
/ " (15 mm).
5 8

3. Clip to the circle. Do not clip past


the stitches.
H
4. Trim and grade the seam allowances
above the circle. Do not trim any fabric
below the circle. Fold the fly (H) to the

D inside of the left front pant leg (D) piece


and press.

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SEW FRONT RISE

RIGHT SIDE

1. Clip 1/8" (3 mm) away from the circle on the rise of the right front pant
leg (D) piece.

2. Finish the rise between the circle and waistline. Do not cut off any
seam allowance.

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H H
D D
D D
RIGHT SIDE RIGHT SIDE
LEFT SIDE LEFT SIDE

3. With right sides together, notches and clippings aligned, match the
front pant leg (D) pieces together at the rise. Pin. Stitch from the circle
through the edge of the rise at 5/8" (15 mm).

4. Using a serger, finish the seam allowances together, trimming off 1/4" (6
mm). Start serging at the bottom edge of the rise and end at the circle.
Fold the seam allowance of the right front pant leg (D) piece out of the
way in order to finish at the clipping.

5. Press the seam allowances to the wearer's left side.

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D D

RIGHT SIDE LEFT SIDE

6. Topstitch along the left front pant leg (D) rise.

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ASSEMBLE AND ATTACH FLY GUARD

1. With wrong sides together, fold the fly


F guard (F) in half. Press.

2. Finish the raw edges of the side and


F
bottom of the fly guard (F). Do not trim
off any seam allowance.

Check out our video on tips for


perfect pressing.

WATCH THE VIDEO

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SEW ZIPPER FLY

1. Lay the fly guard (F) with the longer, serged edge on the left and the
folded edge on the right. Align the zipper tape, right side up, with the
serged edge of the fly guard (F). The topmost zipper tooth will be 3/4"
(20 mm) down from the raw, top edge of the fly guard (F).

2. Using a zipper foot, baste the edge of the zipper tape 1/4" (6 mm) away
from the finished edge of the fly guard (F).

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D D

RIGHT SIDE LEFT SIDE

3. Fold the unsewn edge of the rise on the right front pant leg (D) to the
wrong side at 3/8" (10 mm). Press.

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F

D D

RIGHT SIDE LEFT SIDE

4. Align the zipper and fly shield (F) unit to the right front pant leg (D) at
the waistline. Leave 1/16" (.06 mm) of zipper tape showing between the
teeth and the folded edge of the right front pant leg (D). Pin.

5. Using a zipper foot and topstitching thread, sew close to the folded
edge, down the entire length of the zipper, stopping at the circle.

6. Make sure that the zipper can open and close freely.
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LEFT SIDE

D
H F RIGHT SIDE

7. Unzip the zipper. Pin the fly shield (F)


away from the zipper. Fold the left front
pant leg (D) back behind the right front
pant leg (D) and away from the fly (H)
so it does not get sewn with the rest
of the zipper. Pin the unsewn half of
the zipper to the fly (H), aligning the
coil with the drawn guideline and the
topmost zipper tooth 3/4" (20 mm) down
from the raw edge. Using a zipper foot,
sew the zipper to the fly (H) 1/4" (6 mm)
away from the zipper coil. Double check
that the zipper can open and
close freely.

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TOPSTITCH FLY

D H F D
LEFT SIDE RIGHT SIDE

1. Unfold the left front pant leg (D) and lay it back into position and flat
under the fly (H). Make sure the zipper is zipped up. On the inside of the
pants, baste the fly (H) to the left front pant leg (D), 1/4" (6 mm) inside
the finished edge of the fly (H).

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D D

RIGHT SIDE LEFT SIDE

2. On the outside of the pants, use topstitching thread to topstitch 1/8"


(3 mm) outside of the basting stitches.

3. Remove basting stitches.

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INSIDE

D D

LEFT SIDE RIGHT SIDE

4. Unpin and flip the fly shield (F) into place, so the front unit lays flat over
the zipper. Pin the fly shield (F) over the zipper.

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D D

RIGHT SIDE LEFT SIDE

5. On the outside of the pants, bar-tack at the top of the curve and the end
of the curve at the rise, on top of the topstitching from step 2. Bar-tack
at the circle, under the edgestitching on the left front pant leg (D).

6. Unpin the front unit.

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SEW INSEAM

D D

E E

1. With right sides together, rise seams and notches aligned, match the
front pant leg (D) unit to the back pant leg (E) unit at the inseam.
Pin. Stitch.

2. The inseam can be finished two ways. One option is to finish the
inseam with a flat felled seam. The second option is to finish the seam
allowances together and press towards the back pant leg (E) unit and
then topstitched in place on the right side of the pants. Press in place.

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SEW SIDE SEAMS

D D

E E

1. With right sides together, rise seams and notches aligned, match the
front pant leg (D) unit to the back pant leg (E) unit at the side seam.
Pin. Stitch.

2. Finish the seam allowances together and press towards the back
pant leg (E) unit.

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ASSEMBLE WAISTBAND

A C

1. With right sides together, match the inner front right waistband (A) to
the inner back waistband (C) at the side seam. Pin. Stitch.

2. Press the seam allowances open.

B
C

3. With right sides together, match the inner front left waistband (B) to the
inner back waist band (C) at the side seam. Pin. Stitch.

4. Press the seam allowances open. This will become the inner
waistband unit.

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OUTER WAISTBAND UNIT
A
B

A
B

INNER WAISTBAND UNIT

5. Repeat steps 1 - 4 for the outer front right waistband (A), back
waistband (C), and front left waistband (B) pieces to create the outer
waistband unit.

B A
C

6. Fold the bottom long edge of the inner waistband to the wrong side at
/ " (15 mm). Press.
5 8

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A
B

7. With right sides together and side seams aligned, match the inner and
outer waistband units together along the long, unnotched edge. Pin.
Stitch at 5/8" (15 mm).

8. Trim and grade the seam allowances. Clip the corners and curved edges.

INNER WAISTBAND

B C A

B C A

OUTER WAISTBAND

9. Press the seam allowances and the inner waistband unit away from the
outer waistband unit. Understitch along the inner waistband unit seam
line, catching the seam allowances underneath.

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ATTACH WAISTBAND

E E

A
B

D D

1. With right sides together, side seams and notches aligned, match the
outer waistband unit to the waistline of the pants. There will be an extra
/ " (15 mm) of seam allowance extending from each side of the fly
5 8

opening. Pin. Stitch.

2. Trim and grade the seam allowances.

3. Press the waistband unit up and away from the pants.

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B

4. Fold the inner waistband over the outer waistband at the seam line, so
the inner waistband is facing outwards.

5. With right sides together, pin the excess seam allowances on the short
ends. Make sure the fly guard (L) is not folded back. Stitch at
/ " (15 mm).
5 8

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B

6. Trim the excess seam allowances of the short ends. Clip the corners.

B
B

D H

7. Fold the inner waistband unit back to the inside of the pants, with the
folded edge covering the seam of the outer waistband unit. Use a point
turner on the corners. Press.

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C

D F D

8. Edgestitch the inner waistband in place from the right side of the pants.
Pivot at the short end of the waistband and continue to edgestitch
around the entire waistband. Be careful not to catch the belt loops in
the stitches.

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MAKE BUTTONHOLE

1. Make a horizontal buttonhole on the marking on the front left


waistband (B). Use a keyhole buttonhole if your sewing machine has
that option.

2. Cut the buttonhole open.

HAND-SEW BUTTON OR INSTALL JEANS BUTTON

1. Hand-sew a button at the circle on the front right waistband (A).


Or install a jean button at the circle on the front right waistband (A)
according to the manufacturer's instructions.

We'll show you how to install


denim hardware!

READ THE ARTICLE

HEM

1. Fold the hem of one pant leg to the wrong side at 1/4" (6 mm). Press.

2. Fold the hem to the wrong side once more at 1/2" (13 mm). Press.

3. Edgestitch along the top fold line. Press.

4. Repeat steps 1 - 3 for the other pant leg.

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Congratulations
You have completed the Callahan pants! Give your garment
a once over and a final press and it’s ready to wear.

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51 Se amwork Call ahan

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