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The Callahan pants
Contents
A B O U T T H E PAT T E R N
Pattern Flats 04
Pattern & Fit Details 05
Supplies, Fabric & Measurements 07
G E T T I N G S TA RT E D
Pattern Inventory 09
Sewing Basics 10
Cutting Layouts 11
Glossary 14
Helpful Links 16
About the pattern: Every closet needs a pair of Note: Our misses
high-waisted pants! The Callahan pants feature darts in patterns are drafted for a
the front and back, wide cropped legs, a zip fly, and pin- C cup and curvy patterns
tucks from the upper thigh to the hem. And don’t forget are drafted for a DD cup.
those perfectly shaped patch pockets on the back. Both are drafted for a
height of 5'9".
WAIST 3
/8" (10 mm) 1 3/8" (3.5 cm)
Point turner
M A I N FA B R I C
Skye is wearing size 4 Callahan pants, graded to
a size 6 at the hips and lengthened by 1 1/2”. Her Medium weight to heavy bottom
measurements are 34", 27 3/4"", 38". weight fabrics with a little
stretch, such as twill, linen,
suiting, corduroy, canvas, and
denim.
WAIST 25 26 27 28 29 30 1/2 32 34 36 39 41 43 45 47
HIP 35 36 37 38 39 40 1/2 42 44 46 50 52 54 56 58
FA B R I C R E Q U I R E D ( YA R D S )*
45" 2 1/2 2 1/2 2 1/2 2 1/2 2 5/8 2 5/8 2 5/8 2 5/8 2 3/4 2 7/8 2 7/8 2 7/8 3 3
60" 1 /3 4 1 /
3 4 1 /
3 4 1 /
7 8 1 /
7 8 1 /
7 8 1 /
7 8 2 2 2 /
5 8 2 /
5 8 2 /
3 4 2 /
3 4 2 3/4
WAIST 25 3/8 26 3/8 27 3/8 28 3/8 29 3/8 30 7/8 32 3/8 34 3/8 36 3/8 40 3/8 42 3/8 44 3/8 46 3/8 48 3/8
HIP 35 1/4 36 1/4 37 1/4 38 1/4 39 1/4 40 3/4 42 1/4 44 1/4 46 1/4 50 52 54 56 58
THIGH* * 22 7/8 23 1/2 24 24 5/8 25 1/4 26 26 7/8 27 7/8 29 30 3/4 31 7/8 33 34 1/4 35 3/8
INSE AM 24 5/8 24 5/8 24 5/8 24 5/8 24 5/8 24 5/8 24 5/8 24 5/8 24 5/8 24 5/8 24 5/8 24 5/8 24 5/8 24 5/8
TOTAL RISE 28 1/2 29 29 1/2 30 30 1/2 31 31 1/2 32 32 1/2 33 3/4 34 1/2 35 3/8 36 1/4 37
Metric
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26
FA B R I C R E Q U I R E D ( M E T E R S )*
114 CM 2.3 2.3 2.3 2.3 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.5 2.6 2.6 2.6 2.7 2.7
152 CM 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.8 1.8 2.4 2.4 2.5 2.5 2.5
WAIST 64.5 67 69.5 72 75 78.5 82 87 92.5 102.5 108 113 118 123
HIP 89.5 92 94.5 97 99.5 103.5 107 112 117.5 126.5 131.5 136.5 142 147
INSE AM 62.5 62.5 62.5 62.5 62.5 62.5 62.5 62.5 62.5 62.5 62.5 62.5 62.5 62.5
* Pattern layouts are nondirectional. Purchase additional yardage if using napped or printed fabrics.
**Thigh is measured 1" (2.5 cm) below the rise.
8
Pattern Inventory
B A C
F
G
D E
03 T R A N S F E R P A T T E R N M A R K I N G S : Use your
marking pen, pencil, or chalk to transfer the markings
(such as circles, buttonholes, and fold lines) to the wrong
side of the fabric. Mark the center front of pieces cut on
the fold, as this will help you to align pieces accurately.
fold
C C
D E
A
G B
F* H*
* CUT 1 selvage
fold
F*
C C
A
E
D
B
G H*
* CUT 1
selvage
fold
D C C
H*
G A B
E
F*
* CUT 1
selvage
fold
C C
D E
F* A B
G
H*
* CUT 1
selvage
C C
EDGESTITCH
A row of stitches sewn very close to the
seam line on the right side of the fabric.
14 Se amwork Call ahan
NOTCH SEAM ALLOWANCE
There are two types of notches. The The extra fabric that extends beyond the
notches on the pattern help to align seam line. Most garments have a 5/8"
pattern pieces when sewing. The other (15 mm) or 3/8" (10 mm)
type of notches are ones added to help seam allowance.
sew curves. Notch outer curves on a
seam by cutting wedge shapes into the STAYSTITCH
seam allowance at even intervals, being A line of stitching on a piece that helps
careful not to cut into the stitching. to stabilize the edge before it is sewn,
preventing it from becoming distorted.
PIVOT
TOPSTITCH
Method for sewing when reaching a
A row of stitches seen on the outside of
corner. Stop with the needle down at the
a garment.
corner, lift the presser foot, and rotate
the fabric. Lower the presser foot and
UNDERSTITCH
continue sewing in a new direction.
Understitching helps seams lie flat
and prevents facings and linings from
PRESS
rolling to the outside of your garment.
Placing an iron on fabric and applying
To understitch a facing, press the seam
pressure, without using the back-and-
allowance toward your facing. Stitch the
forth movement used in ironing.
seam allowance to the facing, very close
RIGHT SIDE/ WRONG SIDE to the seam line.
The right side of a fabric is the side that
will show on a finished garment. The
wrong side will be on the inside.
Techniques
QUICK TIPS: 5 TIPS FOR PERFECT PRESSING WHEN SEWING
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NWdDifTxj_g
PA N T S F I T T I N G B A S I C S
https://www.seamwork.com/issues/2019/03/pants-fitting-basics
H O W TO S H O RT E N A M E TA L Z I P P E R
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rvAGVeHvwFg&t=34s
I N S TA L L I N G D E N I M H A R D WA R E
https://www.seamwork.com/issues/2017/04/upgrade-your-sewing-5
H O W TO S E W S TA N DA R D DA RTS
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_h7yggPH5KM&t=17s
T O P S T I T C H E D D A R T S , T H R E E W AY S
https://www.seamwork.com/magazine/2018/04/topstitched-dartsthree-ways
W H Y Y O U S H O U L D S TAY S T I T C H
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=faeoZp0lzKI
THE CLASSROOM
https://www.seamwork.com/classroom
SNIPPETS BY SEAMWORK
https://www.seamwork.com/entry/snippets
Social
SEAMWORK COMMUNITY
https://community.seamwork.com/forums
S E A M W O R K I N S TAG R A M
https://www.instagram.com/seamwork/
LEFT RIGHT
LEFT RIGHT
INNER WAISTBAND PIECES
(RIGHT SIDE UP)
B A
1. Layout all four front waistband pieces, matching the above diagram.
2. The front right waistband (A) pieces, the ones with the buttonhole
marking, will be longer than the front left waistband (B) pieces, with
the button marking.
3. Mark the waistband pieces as inner and outer, matching the diagram
above, using chalk, tape, or a water soluble pen.
A B
2. Apply lightweight fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the fly (H)
piece according to the manufacturer's instructions.
B B
D D
A A
C
E E
1. Staystitch along the waistlines of the front pant leg (D) and back pant
leg (E) pieces at 1/2" (13 mm).
2. Staystitch along the top and bottom edges of the front right waistband
(A), front left waistband (B), and back waistband (C) pieces at
/ " (13 mm).
1 2
Sewing darts for the first time? Give your darts a topstitched
Get all the information here! embellishment!
E
G
1. Align the corners of one patch pocket (G) with the circles on the one
back pant leg (E). Pin. Edgestitch around the sides and bottom of the
patch pocket (G).
3. Optional: Sew bar-tacks or a triangle stitch along each side of the patch
pocket (G) opening.
4. Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the second patch pocket (G) and back pant
leg (E).
1. With right sides together and notches aligned, match both back pant
leg (E) pieces together at the rise. Pin. Stitch.
2. Trim the seam allowances. Finish the seam allowances together and
press to the wearer's right side.
H
2. With right sides together and circles
D
aligned, match the fly (H) to the left
LEFT SIDE front pant leg (D) piece. Pin. Stitch from
the waistline to the circle at
/ " (15 mm).
5 8
RIGHT SIDE
1. Clip 1/8" (3 mm) away from the circle on the rise of the right front pant
leg (D) piece.
2. Finish the rise between the circle and waistline. Do not cut off any
seam allowance.
3. With right sides together, notches and clippings aligned, match the
front pant leg (D) pieces together at the rise. Pin. Stitch from the circle
through the edge of the rise at 5/8" (15 mm).
4. Using a serger, finish the seam allowances together, trimming off 1/4" (6
mm). Start serging at the bottom edge of the rise and end at the circle.
Fold the seam allowance of the right front pant leg (D) piece out of the
way in order to finish at the clipping.
1. Lay the fly guard (F) with the longer, serged edge on the left and the
folded edge on the right. Align the zipper tape, right side up, with the
serged edge of the fly guard (F). The topmost zipper tooth will be 3/4"
(20 mm) down from the raw, top edge of the fly guard (F).
2. Using a zipper foot, baste the edge of the zipper tape 1/4" (6 mm) away
from the finished edge of the fly guard (F).
3. Fold the unsewn edge of the rise on the right front pant leg (D) to the
wrong side at 3/8" (10 mm). Press.
D D
4. Align the zipper and fly shield (F) unit to the right front pant leg (D) at
the waistline. Leave 1/16" (.06 mm) of zipper tape showing between the
teeth and the folded edge of the right front pant leg (D). Pin.
5. Using a zipper foot and topstitching thread, sew close to the folded
edge, down the entire length of the zipper, stopping at the circle.
6. Make sure that the zipper can open and close freely.
35 Se amwork Call ahan
LEFT SIDE
D
H F RIGHT SIDE
D H F D
LEFT SIDE RIGHT SIDE
1. Unfold the left front pant leg (D) and lay it back into position and flat
under the fly (H). Make sure the zipper is zipped up. On the inside of the
pants, baste the fly (H) to the left front pant leg (D), 1/4" (6 mm) inside
the finished edge of the fly (H).
D D
4. Unpin and flip the fly shield (F) into place, so the front unit lays flat over
the zipper. Pin the fly shield (F) over the zipper.
5. On the outside of the pants, bar-tack at the top of the curve and the end
of the curve at the rise, on top of the topstitching from step 2. Bar-tack
at the circle, under the edgestitching on the left front pant leg (D).
D D
E E
1. With right sides together, rise seams and notches aligned, match the
front pant leg (D) unit to the back pant leg (E) unit at the inseam.
Pin. Stitch.
2. The inseam can be finished two ways. One option is to finish the
inseam with a flat felled seam. The second option is to finish the seam
allowances together and press towards the back pant leg (E) unit and
then topstitched in place on the right side of the pants. Press in place.
D D
E E
1. With right sides together, rise seams and notches aligned, match the
front pant leg (D) unit to the back pant leg (E) unit at the side seam.
Pin. Stitch.
2. Finish the seam allowances together and press towards the back
pant leg (E) unit.
A C
1. With right sides together, match the inner front right waistband (A) to
the inner back waistband (C) at the side seam. Pin. Stitch.
B
C
3. With right sides together, match the inner front left waistband (B) to the
inner back waist band (C) at the side seam. Pin. Stitch.
4. Press the seam allowances open. This will become the inner
waistband unit.
A
B
5. Repeat steps 1 - 4 for the outer front right waistband (A), back
waistband (C), and front left waistband (B) pieces to create the outer
waistband unit.
B A
C
6. Fold the bottom long edge of the inner waistband to the wrong side at
/ " (15 mm). Press.
5 8
7. With right sides together and side seams aligned, match the inner and
outer waistband units together along the long, unnotched edge. Pin.
Stitch at 5/8" (15 mm).
8. Trim and grade the seam allowances. Clip the corners and curved edges.
INNER WAISTBAND
B C A
B C A
OUTER WAISTBAND
9. Press the seam allowances and the inner waistband unit away from the
outer waistband unit. Understitch along the inner waistband unit seam
line, catching the seam allowances underneath.
E E
A
B
D D
1. With right sides together, side seams and notches aligned, match the
outer waistband unit to the waistline of the pants. There will be an extra
/ " (15 mm) of seam allowance extending from each side of the fly
5 8
4. Fold the inner waistband over the outer waistband at the seam line, so
the inner waistband is facing outwards.
5. With right sides together, pin the excess seam allowances on the short
ends. Make sure the fly guard (L) is not folded back. Stitch at
/ " (15 mm).
5 8
6. Trim the excess seam allowances of the short ends. Clip the corners.
B
B
D H
7. Fold the inner waistband unit back to the inside of the pants, with the
folded edge covering the seam of the outer waistband unit. Use a point
turner on the corners. Press.
D F D
8. Edgestitch the inner waistband in place from the right side of the pants.
Pivot at the short end of the waistband and continue to edgestitch
around the entire waistband. Be careful not to catch the belt loops in
the stitches.
HEM
1. Fold the hem of one pant leg to the wrong side at 1/4" (6 mm). Press.
2. Fold the hem to the wrong side once more at 1/2" (13 mm). Press.
FOLLOW ALONG
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