Star Trek Captain Jacket Pattern

STAR TREK: FIRST CONTACT to NEMESIS era
(including DEEP SPACE NINE and VOYAGER)
Men's "captain jacket" pattern (all four "hero" versions)

Picard FIRST CONTACT/INSURRECTION,
Picard NEMESIS, Sisko, and "Sisko variant"
Sizes S, M, L, XL, and 2XL
FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS:

S M L XL 2XL
Shoulder to shoulder 18" 19 ½" 21" 22 ½" 24"
Chest 43" 47 ½" 52" 57" 61"
(from 1" below arm hole)
Waist 37" 40" 43" 46" 49"
Sleeve length 24" 25" 26" 27" 28"
(from top of "center" quilt
line on shoulder point)
Sleeve cuff width 12" 12 ½" 13" 13 ½" 14"
Neck circumference 14 ½" 15 ½" 16 ½" 17 ½" 18 ½"
(wearer's measurement,
NOT garment size!)
FABRICS and TRIMS REQUIRED:

Black wool gabardine = 2 yards
Gray wool gabardine = 1 yard
Gray wool elastique/cavalry twill = ½ yard
Division color cotton lycra = ⅛ yard
Batting = ½ yard
Interfacing fabric = 2 yards
Iron-on midweight interfacing = ½ yard
Sew-in interfacing = ½ yard for Picard versions, 1 ¼ yard for Sisko versions
Lining = 2 yards
Drafted by Alex Beard ACCESORIES, NOTIONS, SUPPLIES, ETC. REQUIRED:

Bad Wolf Costumes Walking foot or quilting foot for sewing machine (or a quilting machine)
www.badwolfcostumes.com Zipper/piping foot for sewing machine
Quilting needles for sewing machine
1 spool of black thread
PATTERN SIZING LEGEND: 1 spool of gray thread matching wool gabardine and elastique
Tailor's chalk pencil
S Fray Check (or another brand's equivalent)
1 can of temporary fabric spray adhesive
M 1 or 2 hook-and-eye closures
1 black lightweight separating jacket zipper (15-19", as it can be shortened)
1 pair of shoulder pads
L
XL 1 communicator of your choice
2XL Also, a serger is HIGHLY recommended!

DS9/NEM formal dress uniform men's jacket pattern _ www.badwolfcostumes.com 2
NOTE: THIS TUTORIAL IS FREE AND FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY!
What this tutorial includes:
Pattern instructions
Preliminary notes ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- pg. 3
Comparison of the four "hero" captain jackets --------------------------------------------------------- pg. 4
Construction analysis and details --------------------------------------------------------------------------- pg. 9
Required materials/accessories/supplies/notions/etc. (and known sources) ------------------- pg. 23
Fabric notes and "substitute" material recommendations/alternatives -------------------------- pg. 25
Sizing information ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- pg. 26
Detailed assembly instructions ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ pg. 28
Tips for altering the pattern and/or garment for a custom fit --------------------------------------- pg. 95
BONUS: A quick breakdown of the pants ----------------------------------------------------------------- pg. 101
Pattern pieces (on two sheets):

A - front yoke
B - back yoke
C - center front body panel
D - side front body panel
E - side back body panel
F - center back body panel
G - center front hem facing
H - center front hem facing (Sisko variant)
I - waistband (Picard version)
J - waistband (Sisko version)
K - center back hem facing (Picard version)
L - shoulder point
M - sleeve
N - sleeve cuff upper band
O - sleeve cuff inner layer
P - sleeve cuff division stripe
Q - sleeve cuff lower band
R - center front lining
S - side front lining
T - side back lining
U - center back lining
V - front yoke trim
W - back yoke trim
X - shoulder point trim
Y - neckline trim
Z - zipper trim
AA - yoke zipper trim (Sisko variant)
Preliminary notes
Thank you for purchasing this pattern! The jacket was extensively researched, analyzed, and drafted to be as
screen-accurate as possible.
That said, while this garment is not as snug and form-fitting as its counterpart, the formal jacket, achieving an
ideal (and custom) fit may require some additional work on the part of the costumer. This pattern is an excellent base,
but people come in all shapes and sizes, so some tailoring may be needed - but don't worry, tips for achieving a great fit
(as well as revising the pattern as necessary) are included in these instructions!
This jacket requires medium to advanced sewing skills (as well as equipment); it is not advisable for beginners
and novices to attempt to make this garment. It involves quilting, attaching a zipper, precision topstitching, several
"stitch in the ditch" procedures, interfacing, serging, cutting strips of fabric on the bias, etc.
We strongly recommend reading this tutorial thoroughly to develop a working understanding of the garment's
construction before attempting it; it might seem a bit complex at first but is fairly straightforward once familiar with it.
We also highly recommend doing a muslin test or three for practice before "officially" tackling the actual
garment, especially if you're using the high-quality (and typically expensive) screen-accurate materials. While more time-
consuming, it will help you get acquainted with its construction as well as provide you with any necessary sizing/fitting
information. (We've noticed that muslin can sometimes expand and contract a bit when ironed, though, so after
pressing the pieces, check to be sure they're still the same size as the printed pattern pieces.)
We've included two major features with this pattern: the first is the option to decide which version of the jacket
you wish to construct: the one first introduced on Picard in FIRST CONTACT (and recycled for INSURRECTION), the
version Picard wore in NEMESIS, the version Sisko wore throughout late DEEP SPACE NINE, and the "Sisko variant" he
wore briefly when these uniforms were first introduced in the show. The differences will be shown later in this tutorial.
The second is a recommended placement for optional inside pockets (welt or double-welt is our recommended
style) for practicality; since most of the time the garment will likely be worn in public (such as cons, screenings, etc.), as
opposed to on set with a locker and/or assistants nearby, most of us would prefer to keep an ID, phone, debit/credit
cards, etc. on our person. As long as it's lightweight and thin, the shape won't be visible on the outside. Just don't keep
your entire wallet in your pocket, and it should be fine. Then again, the pockets are optional, so you can simply skip that
step entirely if you wish.
Lastly, we'd like to extend a special thank-you to Michael Cowart for sharing his extensive research into the
uniforms of this era, the Starfleet 1701st for being a wealth of information, and TrekCore for its ample HD screencaps.
Comparison of the four "hero" captain jackets
The four "hero" versions of the "captain jacket" seen throughout this era are quite similar, but they do have
some major differences. Some are quite noticeable; others, not so much.
Picard FIRST CONTACT/INSURRECTION version
The first appearance of this jacket was in the feature film FIRST CONTACT, worn by Captain Picard.
Its primary distinguishing characteristic was the rounded front opening:
This characteristic was unaltered for INSURRECTION;

perhaps the jacket was simply recycled from FIRST
CONTACT, perhaps not, but in any case, the rounded
front opening remained (despite DEEP SPACE NINE
having established the mitered corners):
"Sisko variant"
Almost immediately following the theatrical release of

FIRST CONTACT, these uniforms were introduced to
DEEP SPACE NINE in the season 5 episode "Rapture."
However, for that episode, Captain Sisko wore an odd

variation of this jacket that had a fully closed front; it
did not have the V-shaped front opening seen on the
other uniforms of this era, and it has since come to be
known as the "Sisko variant."
(His communicator was also "incorrectly" placed on the yoke, rather than on the main body - whoops.)
In the next episode, "The Darkness and the Light," Captain Sisko wore both his variant and the version he would wear for
the remainder of the show:
Sisko version and Picard NEMESIS version
The version of the jacket Captain Sisko wore for the remainder of the series evolved somewhat (and, in fact, he
had several).
His final version, while "imperfect" by the later-established standards of NEMESIS, was more or less identical to
the version Captain Picard wore in NEMESIS; as certain aspects of (and standards for) the jacket were not stylistically
refined and finalized until then, for this pattern we have "updated" the Sisko version to conform to NEM standards,
which we will cover later in this tutorial.
Rather than maintain the uniform's rounded front opening from FIRST CONTACT, DEEP SPACE NINE instead
adopted the corners of the early DS9/VOY-style front opening and mitered the trim. The NEMESIS uniforms also adopted
this style - hence the two Picard versions.
Here you can compare the FIRST CONTACT and DS9/NEM openings (rounded vs. mitered corners, respectively):
Other than the imperfections in Sisko's jacket (by the later-established NEM standards), the only apparent major
difference between the two was the waistband.
On Captain Picard's jacket, the waistband spanned

ONLY the side front and side back panels, NOT the
center front or center back:
While on Captain Sisko's jacket, the waistband wrapped all the way around the back, including the center back panels:
It probably needed the extra reinforcement to hold in all the Awesome.

Lastly, the shoulder point trim on Picard's FIRST CONTACT/INSURRECTION version was not mitered:
Each succeeding (non-recycled) version of the uniform, however, had a mitered shoulder point trim:
In summary, the four versions are distinguished by the following:
Front opening Shoulder point trim Waistband

Picard FIRST CONTACT rounded V rounded sides only
Picard NEMESIS V with mitered corners mitered sides only
Sisko V with mitered corners mitered wraparound
Sisko variant fully closed (no opening) mitered wraparound
Construction analysis and details
Before we begin the construction analysis, although we regard this as the "captain jacket" of this era, it is worth
noting that, while the other Starfleet crew members and personnel nearly always wore the jumpsuit, many other
characters did wear a 2-piece (jacket + pants) on various occasions - on DEEP SPACE NINE, at least.
We never observed any character but Captain Picard wear the 2-piece onscreen in the TNG movies, but over the
last two and a half seasons of DEEP SPACE NINE, though the jacket was really Captain Sisko's distinguishing garment,
every other main (Starfleet) character wore the 2-piece on at least one occasion (except Nog, though he was technically
not a main character, only a supporting one).
For instance, only a handful of episodes after these uniforms debuted on DS9, Worf shed and donned a jacket
several times while in the Dominion internment camp (even though he was captured wearing a jumpsuit - heh):
Over the next two and a half years, everyone else got their chance to sport the 2-piece at some point, too:
Including Colonel (Commander) Kira:
Broccoli:
And an assortment of supporting/background characters:

However, while there were numerous occasions on which a character other than the show's captain wore the
jacket, they were still the exception rather than the norm; they nearly always wore the jumpsuit, while the captain
ALWAYS wore the jacket (unless off duty, leading an insurrection, or having shed it in favor of one of the layers
underneath, such as the vest).
Considering this evidence on the shows (DS9 and VOY), and Captain Picard being the only character to wear the
jacket during the TNG movies, it does seem that this jacket was primarily intended for the captain to regularly wear -
perhaps that it was an intentionally distinguishing feature for the captain and its use for others was reserved for
situations that strongly merited it (such as having crash-landed near something of a desert, such as in "Rocks and
Shoals," with the unzipped jackets visually representing the uncomfortable heat and grimness of the situation, or as with
Sloan in "Inquisition" as to subtly put him at the same level of authority as Captain Sisko by giving him a jacket and vest).
Hence why we call it the "captain jacket."
Lastly, though, it is also worth noting that not all Starfleet captains
of this era wore the 2-piece:
Nevertheless, considering it was worn 100% of the time by the two stars of the era (in the Alpha Quadrant, that
is, and while they were both on duty and fully dressed), it is, essentially, the "captain jacket."
Now, onto an analysis of the garment itself!

NOTE: All of the following standards are based on the stylistic refinements of the NEMESIS; there was
considerable experimentation and variance over the years, and before the jacket was finalized to what was arguably its
ideal level of consistency,
y, coordination, and attention to detail, those previous versions often contained various
"imperfections" by later standards (most notably in regard to alignment as it pertains to quilt lines and topstitching).
This garment contained a plethora of details in its construction that ma

made
e it so unique.
that the "captain jacket" is NOT simply the top half of its jumpsuit counterpart?
That is a common misconception; the two garments actually had several major
differences
differences. The jacket shared many stylistic characteristics with the jumpsuit
(which, in turn, shared many traits with its predecessor),
predecessor but it did have some
distinct features that set it apart. Even at a glance the jacket was easily
distinguishable
distinguishable, so here's a detailed analysis of its construction and what made
it so unique.
First, and most notably, is the quilted yoke.

Unlike the immediately preceding Starfleet uniforms first introduced in DEEP SPACE NINE, featured in
GENERATIONS, and worn throughout all of VOYAGER, the yo
yoke is not division-colored
colored and "flat" but gray and quilted:
The Sisko, displeased with the plainness of his early uniform. "Now that's what I'm talking about."
The yoke is quilted vertically in precise increments of ¾" - the front yoke, back yoke, and the shoulder points.
(In other words, the quilt lines are all ¾" apart and parallel.)
The real construction detail of this uniform, though, is in the relationship between the quilting/topstitching and
the rest of the upper garment, and its precise alignments in that regard made it a masterpiece of coordinated detail.
Everything is determined with the quilt lines in mind, as well as constructed and/or adjusted in increments of
quilt lines or half quilt-lines (¾" or ⅜", respec
vely).
The edge of the neck opening, for instance, falls exactly on a quilt line or mid-quilt line at the shoulder seam
(with the ⅜" neckline trim meeting the shoulder seam on the next quilt line or mid-quilt line, but more on that later):
Mid-quilt line Quilt line
Likewise, the mitered corner of the front opening

intersects a quilt line (on the Sisko and Picard NEM
versions, that is), and the distance from an uppermost
corner of the trim to the bottom corner (in the middle
of the jacket) is one quilt line, or ¾", as said bottom
corners are where the middlemost quilt lines would fall:
The "Sisko variant," however, possesses an entirely

vertical closure up the front center of the yoke, with no
angled front opening. The front center of the jacket is
where a center quilt line would be, if one existed; the
edges of the ⅜" zipper trim thus fall on mid-quilt lines.
The shoulder point itself is likewise quilted but asymmetrical in shape; it "leans" slightly forward, as the back of
the shoulder point is wider than the front by ¾", or one quilt line.
The quilt line that intersects the bottom corner of the shoulder point (hereafter called the "center quilt line,"
though that is technically an imprecise term ...) aligns perfectly with the shoulder seam to create one continuous line
from the neck to the bottom of the shoulder point:
The bottom of the yoke is enlarged and reduced (horizontally) by increments of quilt lines or half quilt lines -
(again, that is, ¾" or ⅜", respectively), so that the armscye topstitching at the bottom of the yoke is either flush with a
quilt line or falls on a mid-quilt line.
Quilt line Mid-quilt line

The same is true for the top of the armscye edges of the yoke at the shoulder seam.
It is also true for the width of the shoulder point - that is, the distance from the front corner of the shoulder
point to the back corner of the shoulder point is adjusted in widths of ¾" or ⅜", with the back being slightly wider.
Last but certainly not least in regard to the quilting, the quilt lines on the front and back yokes meet their
counterparts at the shoulder seam and align perfectly:
Yeah, that's how I felt during NEMESIS, too ...

Another unique characteristic of the uniforms from this era is the aforementioned topstitching.
On both of the shoulder and armscye seams, there is a row of topstitching ⅛" away from said seams on each
side that runs the full length of the seam (except the trim on the armscye seam, but more on that later).
In other words, where the front and back yokes meet across the shoulder, one can observe both the seam AND
two rows of topstitching - one on each side, ⅛" from the seam.
It does appear, however, that sometimes in DEEP SPACE NINE, the topstitching was larger ... ¼", not ⅛":
Perhaps this was because it was for uniforms to be seen on the small screen, perhaps it was a
miscommunication between the movie and television costuming departments, perhaps it was a fluke, perhaps the DS9
department decided they preferred to use the ¼" whenever possible for some other reason ... who knows?
Anyway, we think that the ⅛" tops
tching looks snazzier, so that's what we recommend, but you're certainly
free to do yours however you prefer, since technically both are "screen accurate."
Another oddity is that sometimes the armscye topstitches extended onto (or proceeded out of, if you prefer) the
⅜" yoke and shoulder point trim, and sometimes it did not - on both the jumpsuits and the jackets, and even on the
same characters. There didn't seem to be any rhyme or reason ...
For instance, Picard's FIRST CONTACT/INSURRECTION jacket did, but his NEMESIS one did not:
Sometimes Sisko's did ... but other times it did not:
The same is true for many of the other characters and uniforms of the era.
However, since NEMESIS was, if nothing else, the pinnacle of design achievement for these uniforms, and on
said uniforms the topstitching began and ended AT the yoke/trim edge (NOT beginning or extending onto the trim
itself), that is what we prefer to do, though, again, if you wish to topstitch the trim, it is permissible and screen-accurate.
The third major feature of these uniforms is the ⅜" trim seen on the bottom of the yoke and around the
neckline, which was wool gabardine (same as the jacket body and pants), dyed to match the gray wool elastique/cavalry
twill of the yoke, and cut on the bias - essentially custom-made bias tape.
This bias trim apparently reacted quite differently under different lightings and shone quite differently when
shot by different cameras - much more than one might expect.
Sometimes, for instance, it possessed a notable

sheen, almost like sateen or silk might - making
it easily distinguishable from the yoke itself.
This was most commonly seen in promotional

photos for the shows and movies:
Well ain't that just shiny ...

Other times, it was but a subtle difference in the

color/lighting of the two; it just barely stood out
as different:
There were times yet still (most often during DEEP SPACE NINE)
that the trim and yoke fabrics were almost indistinguishable:
The trim was more or less identical on the jumpsuits and "captain jackets" with one exception: on the jumpsuits,
the trim at the bottom of the front opening was mitered (or, rather, faux-mitered to give the appearance of a miter),
while the trim at the bottom of the front opening on the jackets continued downward, sewn to black ⅜" zipper trim:
Jumpsuit Jacket
The jacket's gray neckline/front opening segued fluidly

into the black ⅜" zipper trim, which eﬀec
vely obscured
the jacket zipper (as opposed to the jumpsuits, which
had no zipper trim and closed with an invisible zipper):
Another notable aspect of this jacket is that it lacks the pleats on the back of its jumpsuit counterpart and, like
the corresponding formal jacket of this era, instead simply has seams that, in this case, mirror those on the front.
Here's a look at the back of the jumpsuit, for comparison:
And here's a look at the back of the jacket:

Aside from the aforementioned waistbands, the final distinguishing aspect of this garment is its sleeve cuffs,
which are similar to those of the jumpsuits'.
Both have two ⅜" bands and a ½" division stripe between them, the latter being made from the same cotton
lycra as the division shirt; the division shirt and sleeve cuff division stripe
stripes were perfect matches
es on the wearer.
wearer
However, the jumpsuit sleeve cuffs often - but not always - closed with Velcro (or other hook-and-loop
hook tape),
whereas the jacket'ss sleeve cuffs were sewn shut
shut, closed along the (continuing) sleeve seam:
Jumpsuit Jacket
That can be a lot to keep up with, and some of you may be feeling like this:
But don't worry; we accounted for all of these in our "captain jacket" pattern, and the following instructions
should be thorough enough for you to construct a fantastic rep
replica of your own!
Required materials/accessories/supplies/etc.:
FABRIC and TRIMS:
Black wool gabardine (jacket body) = 2 yards
Gray wool gabardine (yoke and neckline trim) = 1 yard
Gray wool elastique (yoke) = 1 yard
The correct dye to match the screen-used wool elastique is "mouse grey" by Pro Chemical and Dye,
which can be found on their web site, www.prochemicalanddye.com.
Alternatively, one can purchase gray wool elastique and matching wool gabardine from International
Silks and Woolens.
Division color cotton lycra (sleeve cuff division stripes) = ⅛ yard
Batting (for yoke and bib) = ½ yard
The original uniforms reportedly used typical low-loft batting, such as that likely available at your local
fabric store. However, it can result in something of a "poofy" look - which is fine if that's what you want!
- but can also gradually lose its loft over time. It's cheap, easy to use, and works well, though.
Alternatively, an "out of the box" batting solution by Michael Cowart was to use anti-pill fleece, as it
both drapes well and has a more permanent stability.
Other possibilities include Pellon's "Nature's Touch" and "Warm and Natural"; they tend to work nicely
and are likely available at your local fabric store as well.
"Soft and Bright" is not recommended; it also does not tend to drape as well as necessary for this jacket.
Our preference here at Bad Wolf is sew-in quilter's fleece; it doesn't drape as well as the anti-pill fleece,
but it is considerably thinner, which is a major factor considering the number of layers in the complete
"captain ensemble": undershirt, division shirt, quilted and lined vest, and quilted and lined jacket (with
shoulder pads); that's up to 10 layers! Those layers really add up and get bulky - and hot - quickly.
If you're having trouble deciding, you can always simply quilt several identical pieces - say, the front
yoke - with various battings and compare.
Interfacing fabric (muslin will do nicely) = 2 yards
Iron-on midweight interfacing = ½ yard
Sew-in interfacing = ½ yard for Picard versions, 1 ¼ yard for Sisko versions
Lining = 2 yards
ACCESORIES, NOTIONS, SUPPLIES, ETC.:
Walking foot or quilting foot for sewing machine (or an actual quilting machine)
Zipper/piping foot for sewing machine
Quilting needles for sewing machine
1 spool of black thread
1 spool of gray thread matching wool gabardine and elastique
Tailor's/dressmaker's white pencil
Fray Check (or another brand's equivalent)
1 can of temporary fabric spray adhesive
1 or 2 hook-and-eye closures
1 black lightweight separating jacket zipper (15-19", as it can be shortened)
1 pair of shoulder pads
1 communicator of your choice
Iron and ironing board, preferably with a sleeve ironing board
The usual stuff (scissors, seam ripper, bobbins, hand needles, etc.)
Also, a serger is HIGHLY recommended; it will not only make your workflow easier and sewing room cleaner
(fewer threads, frays, etc. all over the place), but it will also prolong the life of the garment itself by keeping the pattern
pieces and seams in better condition.
Lastly, you'll need a communicator of your choice. There's a plethora of options (with pins vs. magnetic, brass vs.
painted resin, etc.). Anovos and XScapesProps are reputable vendors, while you might also research and consider other
sources (such as the Roddenberry web site and the Intergalacatic Trading Company).
Fabric notes:
Alternatively - or, perhaps, ideally - one can purchase white or undyed wool gabardine and/or wool elastique
then dye them matching gray accordingly to screen-accurate specifications.
(We here at Bad Wolf Costumes do plan on eventually selling custom-dyed, screen-accurate fabric, depending
on demand and as the precise dye information becomes available.)
"Substitute" material recommendations/alternatives
We're also aware of "vegan" sensibilities and the

sometimes prohibitively expensive nature of screen-
accurate materials. They may look make for a far more
impressive, screen-accurate replica, but superfine wool
gabardine and wool elastique/cavalry twill aren't cheap!
Tack on time and cost of dyeing or buying custom-dyed
materials, and expenses can add up quickly.
So, as some alternatives to the woolen fabrics, we recommend:
* Black cotton twill as a substitute for black wool gabardine
* Gray corduroy or rib-knit cut at an appropriate angle (so that it appears to have a diagonal
weave), or polyester cavalry twill, as a substitute for the gray wool elastique
* Gray twill or gray wrinklease as a substitute for the gray wool gabardine
The following uniform constructed for this tutorial was 100% cotton and 100% polyester.
No animals were harmed in the making of this tutorial.
Sizing information:
The finished garment measurements are as follows:
S M L XL 2XL
Shoulder to shoulder 18" 19 ½" 21" 22 ½" 24"
Chest 43" 47 ½" 52" 57" 61"
(from 1" below arm hole)
Waist 37" 40" 43" 46" 49"
Sleeve length 24" 25" 26" 27" 28"
(from top of "center" quilt
line on shoulder point)
Sleeve cuff width 12" 12 ½" 13" 13 ½" 14"
Neck circumference 14 ½" 15 ½" 16 ½" 17 ½" 18 ½"
(wearer's measurement,
NOT garment size!)
On the printed pattern, the sizes are designated accordingly:
XL
2XL
Now that you've been briefed on the uniform, determined your sizing, and have all of your materials gathered:
Assembly instructions:
UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED, ALL PATTERN PIECES HAVE A ⅜" SEAM ALLOWANCE!
1 - PATTERN PIECES
For all of the jacket body (and hem facing) pieces, cut two of your body fabric of choice (wool gabardine or
cotton twill) and two of your interfacing fabric of choice (we recommend muslin), so that each shell piece has an exact
muslin counterpart.
(Yes, this doubles the number of pieces to cut, iron, and keep up with, but it will be well worth it; the interfacing
fabric gives the garment more body, weight, dimension, and changes its drape ever-so-slightly.)
Iron all the pieces, then pair each body piece with its
corresponding interfacing piece.
For the waistband, "sandwich" the sew-in interfacing between the body and interfacing pieces; the waistband
facing will have two layers like the other pieces, but the waistband itself will have three:
Serge all of the body pieces to their interfacing mates.

If you don't have a serger (and/or one is not reasonably available), you can also baste, stitch, or zig-zag stitch the
two pieces together within the seam allowance; it's not ideal but it's something, at least!
After cutting out your sleeves, using your tailor's/dressmaker's pencil, copy the shoulder point guideline at the
top of the sleeve onto your pattern piece; it will be crucial later to correctly place your shoulder point.
The sleeve cuff assembly, lining assembly, and quilting can all be done in any order before continuing, so they're
simply listed first in an arbitrary order here. You may do these steps in whatever order you find most convenient.
2 - SLEEVE CUFF
This is a prime example of an assembly that might seem dauntingly complicated at first but actually isn't very
difficult after actually practicing it once or twice.
The assembly itself is in five pieces, plus interfacing.
N - upper sleeve cuff band ⅜"

O - sleeve cuff inner layer ½"
P - division stripe ½"
O - sleeve cuff inner layer ½"

Q - lower sleeve cuff band ⅜"
Start by interfacing pieces N (upper sleeve cuff band) and Q (lower sleeve cuff band) with your iron-on
interfacing.
This will give them more dimension, as they tend to look disappointingly flat without it. It will also make the cuff
sturdier, which is particularly important for the upper band; you don't want it to flop around!
So, here are your pieces in order:

Sew the upper band (piece N) to one of the inner layers (piece O), right sides facing.
Press the inner layer downward, and press the seam allowance toward the upper band.
Fold the upper band downward over the seam allowance and press.
Unfold the upper band for now (to get it out of the way), and sew the division stripe (piece P) to the open edge
of the inner layer, right sides facing, with ¼" seam allowance.
Press the division stripe downward, and press the seam allowance downward toward the stripe.
Sew another inner layer to the bottom of the division stripe, right sides facing, with ¼" seam allowance. Press
the seam allowance upward toward the division stripe.
Fold the upper band back over the seam allowances and under the assembly. The bottom two edges (upper
band and lower inner layer) should be flush.
Place the assembly on the bottom of the sleeve, with the cuff and sleeve bottom edges flush.
Baste or sew the sleeve cuff assembly to the sleeve ¼" from the bottom edge.
"Stitch in the ditch" along the lower edge of the upper band to secure the cuff assembly to the sleeve.
Sew the lower cuff band (piece Q) to the bottom of the sleeve/cuff assembly, right sides facing, with the
standard ⅜" seam allowance.
Press the lower band downward.

Flip the sleeve and cuff assembly over to the wrong side.
Fold the lower band upward, over the seam allowances, and press.
At this point, you can see how the finished sleeve cuff will look.
For now, though, unfold the lower band and serge the cuff assembly.
Sew the bottom of the sleeve lining to the open edge of

the lower cuff band, right sides facing.
Repeat for the other sleeve cuff.

3 - LINING ASSEMBLY
The jacket's lining assembly is very simple.
Sew the center front lining (piece R) to the side front lining (piece S). Press seam allowance open. Repeat for the
other side. This is the front half.
OPTIONAL: add pockets in a style of your choice. On the pattern, we have included recommended pocket
placements for ½" by 5" welt or double-welt pockets.
Depending on your physique, you may wish to move the pocket placements, and those with larger hands may
wish to widen the pocket opening, but these should at least be a good place to start. The pocket should begin
immediately below the breast, and the pocket pouch should not extend into the hem facings.
We recommend using the shell fabric (black wool gabardine or black cotton twill) for the welts, and any fabric
should do nicely for the pocket pouches; we like to use the black lining fabric, but white muslin would work well, too.
Sew center back lining (piece S) to the side back lining (piece T). Press seam allowance open.
Sew the two back assemblies together along the center back. Press seam allowance open. This is the back half.
Sew the front lining assemblies to the back lining assembly at the sides and shoulders. Press seam allowance
open.
The front center of the jacket's lining will be left open for now; it will get sewn in later.
NOTE: Rather than pressing the lining seam allowances open, you may instead wish to serge them together.
The completed lining assembly (shown with pockets):
Books! The best weapons

in the world!
4 - QUILTING
This is fun.
For all quilted portions of the jacket, you will need your walking/quilting foot and quilting needles.
A universal foot will not work well for this; a sewing machine only has feed dogs (the things on the sewing plate,
beneath the foot, that pull the fabric forward as you sew) on the bottom, so the uppermost layers of fabric will move at
a slower speed than the bottom ones, and by the time you reach the end of the quilt line, your pieces will have slid
slightly, no matter how well you pin them.
(It's like trying to eat a burger while only holding the bottom half of the bun; you might get some of the top half
in each bite, but it'll probably keep sliding back as you eat.)
Try it if you don't believe us! We'll just be like ...

The pattern pieces to be quilted are the two front yokes (piece A), the back yoke (piece B), and the two shoulder
points (piece L).
To start, you should have three cuts for each pattern piece: shell (wool elastique/cavalry twill), batting (sew-in
fleece, low-loft polyester, anti-pill fleece, etc.), and backing (we recommend using the jacket body fabric - wool
gabardine or cotton twill).
Using your tailor's/dressmaker's white pencil, copy the quilt lines exactly from the printed pattern onto your
backing fabric. They are precisely ¾" apart, so an easy way to do this is to mark the top and bottom of each piece then
use a see-through quilter's ruler to mark them and ensure they're exactly parallel.
You may also wish to mark the front side of your shoulder points for ease of recognition.
Stack the three layers of each piece on top of each other: shell, right side up, batting, and backing (so that the
batting is sandwiched in the middle).
We highly recommend spraying some temporary fabric

adhesive between the layers; even with pinning and the
use of a walking foot, the layers can still slide around a
bit, causing unsightly puckering and/or misalignment.
Pin the layers together, then baste the perimeter of the assembly ⅛" or ¼" from the outside edges to further
secure them.
Using your walking foot (and gray thread), quilt along

the lines indicated from the wrong side.
Once quilted, it will look like this:
Serge the entire quilted assembly.

Repeat this process for the other quilted pattern pieces.
The spray adhesive will likely leave your finished pieces feeling rather stiff, so spray or briefly soak them in water
to dissolve and/or wash out the adhesive, then set them aside to dry.
One final tip: when quilting, always begin from the

same edge - preferably the bottom edge of the yokes,
and the upper rounded edge of the shoulder points.
Switching back and forth can result in some unattractive
contortions and puckers, like these:
5 - JACKET BODY
Place the center front body panel (piece C) and the side
front body panel (piece D) together, right sides faces,
aligned at the top.
(The side front piece will be shorter; the waistband will

complete the length of the side panel.)
Sew the two pieces together, beginning at the top and

ending roughly 2" above where the side front panel
ends. Press open the seam allowance open along the
sewn portion of the seam.
That may sound a bit weird, but ...
Repeat for the other front panels.

Sew the two center backs (piece F) together along the center back seam. Press seam allowance open.
Sew the side back panels (piece E) to the center back panels in a similar manner to the center front and side
front - that is, start at the top, stop roughly 2" from the bottom of the side front, and press the seam allowance open
along the sewn portion of the seam.
After pressing the seam allowances open, sew or baste

them open ¼" from the top edge.
6 - YOKE TRIM
Place the front yoke trim (piece V) on the bottom of the front yoke, right sides facing.
Using your quilting/walking foot and gray thread, sew the front yoke trim to the front yoke.
Press the trim downward.

On the reverse side of the trim, lightly mark with a disappearing ink marker (or your tailor's/dressmaker's white
pencil) where the body panel seam should align. This is noted for reference on the printed pattern piece.
Repeat this process for the other front yoke trim, then again for the back yoke trim (piece W).
7 - YOKE TO BODY
Place the front yoke on top of the front body assembly, right sides facing, with the free edge of the yoke trim
and the top of the body assembly flush and the body seam appropriately aligned with the quilt line and/or your marking.
Using a zipper/piping/edge-stitching foot, sew the yoke trim to the front body assembly with a ⅝" seam
allowance.
Serge the seam allowances together (even though the body is already serged).
Press the seam allowance upward, then, with your quilting/walking foot and gray thread, "stitch in the ditch"
along the top of the yoke trim and secure the seam allowance in place.
Repeat this process for the other front yoke/body assembly, then again for the back body assembly.
The shoulder point trim is a bit more involved.
For the Picard FIRST CONTACT version, place the shoulder point trim (piece X) on the bottom of the shoulder
point, perpendicular and right sides facing.
Keeping the trim secure at the bottom of the point, pull the sides of the trim up so that the bottom edges are
flush with the bottom edges of the shoulder point, coming as close to a right angle at the point as possible.
Sew the trim onto the shoulder point, turning the corner as sharply as possible.
Press the trim down, then turn free edge of the trim under, press, pin, and "stitch in the ditch" to secure it.
For the Picard NEMESIS version and both Sisko versions, place the shoulder point trim (piece X) on the shoulder
point, right sides together, edges flush on whichever side is on your right.
Holding (or pinning) that length of trim in place, fold the remainder of the trim upward, then rotate so that it is
parallel to the other bottom edge of the shoulder point - also so that said fold is a perfect extension of the shoulder
point's "center" quilt line. Press the fold.
Unfold the trim, then stitch all the way to the crease you just pressed and stop.
With the needle in the fabric, lift the presser foot and rotate the shoulder point so that the crease is facing you.
Lower the presser foot and stitch to the edge along the crease line.
Fold the remaining length of trim back upward (just like you did before).
Fold the remaining length of trim BACK DOWN from the bottom corner of the shoulder point.
Resume stitching from the bottom corner of the shoulder point to the other edge, beginning exactly where your
previous stitch ended.
Flip the trim downward and press.
Turn the open edge of the trim under, keeping the miter in vertical alignment with the shoulder point's "center"
quilt line. Pin into place.
"Stitch in the ditch" to secure the trim in place, then clip the excess from the outer edges of the shoulder point.
Place the shoulder point on top of its companion sleeve, properly aligning it according to the markings.
Stitch the shoulder point onto the sleeve around its rounded edge within the seam allowance (say, ¼"), then
"stitch in the ditch" again along the upper edge of the trim to secure the shoulder point to the sleeve.
Slip-stitch the bottom edge of the shoulder point to the sleeve using gray thread.
8 - FRONT TO BACK
Place the front body assembly on top of the back body assembly, right sides facing and quilt lines meeting
exactly at the shoulder seam.
Baste the front yoke to back yoke at the shoulder seam. Flip the garment around (right sides out) and inspect
the quilt lines at the seam to confirm that they meet exactly.
Once satisfied of their proper alignment, stitch at the shoulder seam, reinforcing the seam at the neckline and
armscye. We actually recommend stitching the whole seam twice to further secure the many layers.
IT'S THE ONLY WAY TO BE SURE.

Press the shoulder seam allowance open.
Topstitch in a parallel straight line on each side of the seam, ⅛" away, securing the seam allowances in place.
Although a straight, parallel topstitch is a fairly easy thing to do, and we're not trying to reinvent the wheel here,
you might find it easier yet to use a 6mm twin needle to ensure that the topstitch is PERFECTLY parallel. 6mm is VERY
close to ¼". Simply center the shoulder seam between the two needles.
This twin-needle method might be your preference for the armscye topstitching as well.
Another option is to use an edge joining ("stitch in the ditch") foot to ensure consistency and accuracy by setting
the "blade" in the seam and set the needle ⅛" from center.
Repeat for the other side.

Ideally, the quilt lines should align exactly (demonstrated here on muslin).
Then the ⅛" topstitching is icing on the cake.

However, the ⅛" topstitching does grant a minor margin for error - that is, it "forgives" a small amount of
misalignment. Not much, but just enough to slightly obscure the last stitch or so ...
For instance, note this slightly imperfect alignment:
Now note how the ⅛" topstitching slightly obscures the unsightly, mismatched lines:
Once draped over the wearer's shoulder and the wearer is moving, the slight misalignment would be practically
imperceptible.
'course, that won't do you much good if you're off by more than that!
You want them to look like this:
Not like this:
Or this:
9 - SLEEVES TO BODY
Pin the sleeve on the appropriate side of the jacket body, matching the "center" quilt line with the shoulder
seam and the lower edges of the shoulder point with the bottom of the jacket body's yoke.
Baste the sleeve to the jacket body. Flip the garment around (right sides out) and inspect to confirm proper
alignment of the "center" quilt line and shoulder seam, as well as the shoulder point trim with the body's yoke trim.
Once satisfied with the proper alignment, stitch the sleeve to the jacket body, using black thread for the sleeve
portion and gray thread for the yoke. We recommend stitching twice for thoroughness (as done before with the yoke),
as well as reinforcing at the shoulder seam and bottom of the shoulder point/yoke.
Press the seam allowance open.
As done previously with the shoulder seam, topstitch both the yoke and shoulder point ⅛" from each side of the
armscye seam, forming three parallel lines and securing the seam allowances in place.
Remember, the bottom of the armscye topstitch should meet a quilt line or a mid-quilt line on both the yoke
and shoulder point, and at the shoulder seam the yoke topstitch should "peak" where the next quilt line would be.
The trims should also meet exactly.
Also remember that on some uniforms, the topstitch began on/extended onto the yoke/shoulder point trim,
while on others it did not.
Since it did not on the (non-recycled) NEMESIS uniforms, that is what we recommend; given the plethora of
stylistic revisions seen on the "hero" uniforms in that movie, it is reasonable to assume that those were intended to be
the "ideal" uniform construction standards of the era.
That said, if, for whatever reason, you wish to topstitch your jacket's yoke/shoulder point trim as well, a
multitude of uniforms (both uniforms, jackets, and Admiral uniforms) from the era did, so the choice is yours.
Being cut on the bias and on the outer ends of their respective assemblies, the yoke and shoulder point trims
may stretch a little bit at the armscye seam.
This is obviously best avoided, but it's hardly noticeable at the end of the day, especially if you extend the
armscye topstitching onto the trim.
STRETCHED TRIM FROM 3/8" TO 7/16" AT ARMSCYE SEAM
CAN LIVE WITH IT

Right now, it probably looks like you're working on a straightjacket for Chewbacca, but don't worry, you're right
on track!
Lastly, close the jacket's side body panels, sleeve, and sleeve lining in one continuous stitch, matching seams, as
well as bands and division stripes on the cuffs.
Press the seam allowance open.
On the lining, however, you may instead wish to simply serge the seam allowances together as far as possible.
10 - SHOULDER PADS
The necessary loft of the shoulder pads will depend on the wearer's physique (as will the precise angle of the
shoulder seam, for that matter); most non-raglan shoulder pads will work nicely, though, like these:
Place the shoulder pad inside the jacket so that the pad's long edge is flush with the jacket's armscye seam, and
the pad's seam (if it has one) is flush with the jacket's shoulder seam.
Hand-stitch the pad securely in place to the shoulder and armscye seam allowances and/or the backing layer of
the quilting, being careful not to stitch all the way through the quilted layers to the outside of the garment.

11 - WAISTBAND TO BODY
Place the waistband (piece I or J) on the jacket body, right sides facing and edges flush.
For the Sisko versions, sew the waistband to the jacket body across the back six body panels.
For the Picard versions, sew the waistband to the bottom of the side body panels, then repeat for the other side.
Press the seam allowance downward.

Sew the remainder of the front and back side seams (the ones you left open before), seeing that the waistband
seam allowance is sewn downward into the seam. Press seam allowances open.
(Picard version pictured above.)
Hand-stitch the waistband seam allowance to the fabric interfacing layer of the waistband, being careful not to
stitch all the way through the layers to the outside of the garment.
12 - FACINGS and FACINGS TO BODY
Picard versions
Sew the center front facing (piece G) to the waistband facing (piece I).
Sew that assembly to the center back facing (piece K).
Repeat for the other side, then sew the two assemblies together along the center back.
Press all seam allowances open.
Sisko versions
Sew one center front facing (piece G, or piece H for the variant) to the outer edges of the waistband (piece J).
Press all seam allowances open.
(Picard version pictured above.)

Sew the facing assembly to the jacket body, right sides facing and matching seams.
Fold the facing assembly upward and press.
Understitch the seam allowance to the facing assembly ⅛" from the boom of the jacket.
13 - LINING TO BODY
Sew the lining body assembly to the body facing assembly, right sides facing and matching seams.
Hand-stitch the facing/lining seam allowance to the jacket body's interfacing layer, again being careful not to
stitch all the way through the layers to the outside of the garment.
Turn the lining body assembly upward.
Pull the sleeve lining through and up the sleeve.
Sew the sleeve lining to the body lining, matching seams.
Pin the lining to the open edge of the jacket - the body, front opening, and neckline.
Baste or sew the lining to the body, ⅛" or ¼" from the edge.
"Stitch in the ditch" along the upper edge of the lower sleeve cuff band to secure the facing portion of the lower
band in place.
"Stitch in the ditch" again, this time along the lower edge of the upper cuff band.
14 - ZIPPER TRIM and NECKLINE TRIM
The process for attaching the zipper trim, neckline trim, and zipper is similar for each of the four versions but
different enough to merit separate instructions.
Sisko variant (for the other versions, skip to page 83)
The Sisko variant is the simplest and easiest of the four versions in this regard.
First, using your quilting/walking foot and gray thread,

sew the neckline trim (piece Y) to the neckline in the
same manner you would sew double-fold bias tape.
Place a piece of zipper trim (piece Z) on top of the left center front body panel, right sides facing, with the top
edge of the zipper trim flush with the top edge of the yoke trim. The zipper trim should extend 1" beyond the bottom of
the jacket.
Starting at the bottom of the jacket, using your regular sewing foot and black thread, sew the zipper trim to the
jacket, stopping roughly 2" from the top of the length of trim.
Press the top portion of the zipper trim downward so that the fold is flush with the bottom of the yoke trim.
Place the yoke zipper trim (piece AA) on the left yoke and folded zipper, right sides facing, with the edge of the
neckline trim and the edge of the zipper trim flush. The yoke zipper trim should overhang the top of the neckline by 1".
Pin the two pieces of trim together, then sew them together along the crease in the zipper trim.
Confirm that the trim seam is flush with the yoke/body seam.
You want it to look like this:
Not this:
However, if it is off a little bit, simply take in the seam until it's properly aligned. The trim pieces are intentionally
a bit long.
Once you're satisfied with the alignment, clip the seam allowances down to ⅛" and press them open.
Pin in place, the continue the zipper trim stitch from where you left off to just above the trim seam (catching the
trim's seam allowances), then stop.
Using your quilting/walking foot and gray thread, stitch the yoke zipper trim to the yoke.
Fold the entire length of trim (both jacket and yoke) over, then press.
Fold the top portion of the trim (the 1" that overhangs the top of the neckline) downward, then press.
Fold the entire length of trim it again, underneath the jacket assembly, then press.
For all other versions
Place a piece of zipper trim (piece Z) on top of the left center front body panel, right sides facing, with the top
edge of the zipper trim flush with the top edge of the yoke trim. The zipper trim should extend 1" beyond the bottom of
the jacket.
Starting at the bottom of the jacket, sew the zipper trim to the jacket, stopping roughly 2" from the top of the
length of trim.
Press the top portion of the zipper trim downward so that the fold is flush with the bottom of the yoke trim.
Place the neckline trim (piece Y) on the left yoke and folded zipper, right sides facing, with the edge of the
neckline trim and the edge of the zipper trim flush.
Pin the two pieces of trim together, then sew them together along the crease in the zipper trim.
Confirm that the trim seam is flush with the yoke/body seam.
You want it to look like this:
Not this:
However, if it is off a little bit, simply take in the seam until it's properly aligned. The trim pieces are intentionally
a bit long.
Once you're satisfied with the alignment, clip the seam allowances down to ⅛" and press them open.
Pin in place, the continue the zipper trim stitch from where you left off to just above the trim seam (catching the
trim's seam allowances), then stop.
For the Picard FIRST CONTACT/INSURRECTION version, clip the corner of the front opening in a slightly rounded
manner, removing the "hard" corner and making a nice, subtly rounded turn.
Rotate the neckline trim so that its edge is flush with the front opening.
Pin in place.
Sew the neckline trim around the rounded corner, using

your quilting/walking foot and gray thread.
Continue around the neckline, the opposite corner, and

the opposite front opening, stopping roughly 2" from
the bottom of the yoke.
Repeat the process of sewing the neckline trim and the

zipper trim together, in the opposite direction.
For the Picard and Sisko versions, rotate the neckline trim so that its edge is flush with the front opening.
Pin in place.
Fold the neckline trim over at the corner of the front opening so that, at the edge of the neckline, the trim is at
the appropriate angle for the miter. Press.
Unfold the trim, then stitch all the way to the crease.
With the needle in the fabric, lift the presser foot and rotate the shoulder point so that the crease is facing you.
Lower the presser foot and stitch to the edge along the crease line.
Whoa ... déjà vu ...
It's the same mitering process you did earlier with the
shoulder point.
Repeat the process here with the corner of the front

opening, stitch around the neckline, and repeat the
process again for the opposite corner.
INDEED.
Then repeat the process of sewing the neckline trim and
zipper trim together.
15 - ZIPPER and HOOK AND EYE CLOSURE
Cut off the excess zipper tape from the top of your jacket zipper.
Apply Fray Check (or some other equivalent brand's

product) to the top of the zipper tape.
Fold the bottom portion of the trim (the 1" that overhangs the bottom of the jacket) upward, then press.
Fold the entire length of zipper trim underneath the jacket assembly, then press.
Unfold the trim.
Unzip the zipper.
Place the left half of the zipper underneath the left zipper trim so that the bottom of the zipper is flush with the
bottom of the jacket and the zipper teeth are just inside of the crease. Pin and baste the zipper into place.
Repeat the process for the right half of the zipper and the right zipper trim.
NOTE: The zipper should extend from the bottom of the jacket to ½" below the neckline on the Sisko variant, or ½"
below the yoke for all other versions.
If your jacket zipper is longer than that, you will need to

cut it down to size. You can simply pull the metal
brackets off of the top and replace them accordingly, or
you can do a bar tack (i.e. zig-zag stitch with the stitch
length set to 0) over the top of the zipper to keep the
zipper pull from coming off.
However, if your jacket zipper is too short by ½" or less, an additional hook-and-eye closure should sufficiently
close the opening of the jacket.
Once satisfied with the zipper's placement, sew the zipper to the zipper trim, reinforcing the stitch on each side
of the bottom of the jacket.
NOTE: You may wish to leave the last ½" or so of your zipper free - that is, not sewn - and compensate with
another hook-and-eye closure as to further hide the zipper pull tab between the two lengths of zipper trim.
The zipper pull will likely be fairly hidden between the two (especially if it's a smaller and/or invisible zipper-style
tab), as it's fairly snug between the two lengths of zipper trim. However, it might be totally hidden by leaving that last bit
free (and the less of it you see, the better), so perhaps experiment to find the right combination for your zipper tab.
Stitched to top Top ½" left free
If you do leave the uppermost ½" or so free, though, remember to stop at the same place on both halves of the
zipper, and to thoroughly secure the zipper by reinforcing the stitching at its uppermost point.
Fold the zipper and neckline trim under the jacket

assembly (just the zipper trim for the Sisko variant),
then fold it in half again, the way you would narrow
hem a garment (so that it essentially forms bias tape).
Pin in place.
"Stitch in the ditch" along the outer edge of the zipper

trim with black thread, and then along the outer edge
of the neckline trim with gray thread.
(Picard FIRST CONTACT version)
Hand-stitch a hook-and-eye closure (or two, as the case may be) to close the space above the zipper.
Tips for altering the pattern and/or garment for a custom fit
While some costumers may find a perfect fit in one of the "default" pattern sizes, it is somewhat unlikely due to
variations in height, weight, build, musculature, neck size, and general physique.
That's we highly recommend making a muslin test or a "practice" garment of some kind (other than to
familiarize yourself with its construction, that is!) - you can make the necessary sizing observations (e.g. sleeves need to
be an inch longer, waist needs to be loosened, neckline needs to be taken in a bit, etc.).
All this fitting does require extra time and effort on the part of the costumer, but the finished garment's custom-
tailored look will definitely be worth it!
There are five main aspects of the garment that may need adjustment and the original pattern need be altered:
the neckline, the chest, the waist, the length of the garment, and the sleeves.
These revisions are not difficult to make, even to conform to NEMESIS "hero" uniform standards, provided one
remembers the appropriate points at which the garment is to be aligned and/or coordinated.
The neckline, for instance, is simply adjusted in lateral increments of half quilt-lines ... that is, it is widened
(sideways) in increments of ⅜".
Mid-quilt line Quilt line

If, for some reason, your neckline needs to be lengthened in the other direction, it is a simple matter of adding
the appropriate length to the shoulder seam on each side.
For instance, if your neckline needs to be lengthened (as opposed to widened, sideways) by ¼", simply add ⅛" to
the front yoke and the back yoke on the neckline side of the shoulder seam.
The opposite would be the case if you need it let out a bit at the shoulder/armscye.
Just remember to adjust the seamline of your shoulder point accordingly!

Adjusting the chest at the bottom of the yoke is a fairly simple matter, too.
The chest sizes of the printed pattern are graded in increments of 4 ½" - that is, one additional ¾" quilt line on
each front yoke, one additional ¾" quilt line on each side of the back yoke, and ⅜" on each side of the underarm/side
front/side back seam and on both sides.
Any chest alterations - between the "default" sizes on the printed pattern, that is - are easiest to make in
increments of ¾". This is most effectively done by taking in the armscye seam in by ⅜" on either the back or both front
yokes (wherever there's more excess), thus moving the seam's ⅛" topstitching from on a quilt line to a mid-quilt line.
(All of the "default" printed pattern sizes place the yokes' armscye seam's topstitching on a quilt line, as we
believe it to be ideal, but as noted in the construction analysis, a mid-quilt line is acceptable.)
In other words, the printed pattern piece will look like this in every size, in the front and the back:
But you can add or remove ¾" to or from the chest by moving the seam to here, in the front or the back:
Of course, you can add or remove 1 ½" to or from the chest by doing in both the front AND the back.
Remember to adjust your shoulder point, side front body panels, and lining panels accordingly.
Another option, for minute chest alterations, is the top of the side front/side back seam (under the arm) -
adjusting the sleeve (and sleeve lining) accordingly, of course!
The waist is, likewise, an easy aspect of the garment to alter.
Of course, as waist sizes vary widely amongst people, it's also, perhaps, the most likely to need adjustment.
The waist sizes on the printed pattern are graded in increments of 3". This means that each pattern size may
need up to 2 ½" or so added or subtracted to the waistline.
The best place to take the waist in a bit is at the side front/side back seams (say, ¼" each or so). That would be
½" for each side, or 1" total.
Adding to the waist is a similar process and can be done

anywhere, though the easiest place to add is, by far, the
side front/side back seam.
Side back Side front

As is, the pieces are angled inward somewhat, but they
body panel body panel
can be adjusted as needed with relative ease. Piece E Piece D
Let out
Pattern
Taken in
Remember to adjust the lining panels and the length of the waistband (both Picard and Sisko versions) accordingly when
modifying the waist.
The jacket length is a bit more of an issue than the others.
The distance from the bottom of the yoke to the bottom of the jacket at the front center was 16 ½" on Captain
Picard's NEMESIS jacket - presumably not only because that was an ideal fit, but also because conveniently lent itself to
a 16" jacket zipper and ½" for a hook-and-eye closure. Captain Sisko's jacket appeared to be the same.
From this, we can deduce that the IDEAL jacket height (from the bottom of the yoke, which was a fixed height of
4 ½" at the front opening, to the bottom of the jacket, measured from the front center) was 16 ½".
On our pattern, we have drafted the jacket so that the MEDIUM size is "screen accurate" in this regard. From
there, the jacket body height is graded in 1" increments; the SMALL is 15 ½", the MEDIUM is 16 ½", the LARGE is 17 ½",
the XL is 18 ½", and the 2XL is 19 ½".
This was done for height purposes only! For instance, a shorter fellow with moobs and a beer gut might wear a
2XL, but the 19 ½" jacket body would be way too long. Likewise, a taller, toothpick-size gentleman might wear a small,
but the jacket would likely be too short.
Take a look at Oberoth and Gabe Lewis; though they might have a similar build at the chest and shoulders, their
waistlines will be radically different:
We have graded the jacket height for your sizing convenience, but 16 ½" is, arguably, the ideal!
The length of the sleeves may need to be adjusted, depending on the wearer's arm length.
This is relatively easy, however!
The sleeve length on the pattern is graded in increments of 1".
The sleeve is wider at the top and gradually narrows toward the wrist, but the bottommost 2 ½" are a consistent
width for the sleeve cuff.
To length or shorten, simply move said 2 ½" rectangle upward or downward as needed and change the angle of
the sleeve's narrowing accordingly.
CONGRATULATIONS!
IT IS FINISHED.
BONUS: a quick breakdown of the pants
The pants to this uniform are fairly basic: high-waisted, 8-panel pants with the pant seams matching the jacket
body seams, made from the same black wool gabardine as the jacket body.
As you can observe, the pants seem to "overlap" the jacket and vest by several inches, likely to prevent any
distractingly colorful division shirt "peeking" from between the two layers should the actor bend, lean, squad, climb, etc.
Note the matching seam lines on the pants and the

jacket body.
Optional additions include an invisible zipper in the front center and sewn-on suspenders, both of which we
highly recommend. You might also want to safety-pin the suspender strap to your undershirt to prevent them from
slipping and falling. (Just think about how annoying it is when your ski bib straps slide down your shoulder while you're
wearing a winter coat over them.)
We actually caught a glimpse of Picard's suspenders

toward the end of NEMESIS:
OOPS SUSPENDERS ARE COOL

Star Trek Captain Jacket Pattern

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Star Trek Captain Jacket Pattern

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

STAR TREK: FIRST CONTACT to NEMESIS era

(including DEEP SPACE NINE and VOYAGER)

Men's "captain jacket" pattern (all four "hero" versions)

Sizes S, M, L, XL, and 2XL

FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS:

FABRICS and TRIMS REQUIRED:

Drafted by Alex Beard ACCESORIES, NOTIONS, SUPPLIES, ETC. REQUIRED:

2XL Also, a serger is HIGHLY recommended!

NOTE: THIS TUTORIAL IS FREE AND FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY!

What this tutorial includes:

Pattern pieces (on two sheets):

Comparison of the four "hero" captain jackets

Picard FIRST CONTACT/INSURRECTION version

This characteristic was unaltered for INSURRECTION;

Almost immediately following the theatrical release of

However, for that episode, Captain Sisko wore an odd

Sisko version and Picard NEMESIS version

On Captain Picard's jacket, the waistband spanned

It probably needed the extra reinforcement to hold in all the Awesome.

In summary, the four versions are distinguished by the following:

Front opening Shoulder point trim Waistband

Construction analysis and details

Including Colonel (Commander) Kira:

And an assortment of supporting/background characters:

Now, onto an analysis of the garment itself!

This garment contained a plethora of details in its construction that ma

First, and most notably, is the quilted yoke.

Mid-quilt line Quilt line

Likewise, the mitered corner of the front opening

The "Sisko variant," however, possesses an entirely

Quilt line Mid-quilt line

Yeah, that's how I felt during NEMESIS, too ...

Sometimes Sisko's did ... but other times it did not:

Sometimes, for instance, it possessed a notable

This was most commonly seen in promotional

Well ain't that just shiny ...

Other times, it was but a subtle difference in the

The jacket's gray neckline/front opening segued fluidly

Here's a look at the back of the jumpsuit, for comparison:

And here's a look at the back of the jacket:

FABRIC and TRIMS:

Black wool gabardine (jacket body) = 2 yards

Gray wool gabardine (yoke and neckline trim) = 1 yard

Gray wool elastique (yoke) = 1 yard

Division color cotton lycra (sleeve cuff division stripes) = ⅛ yard

Batting (for yoke and bib) = ½ yard

Interfacing fabric (muslin will do nicely) = 2 yards

Iron-on midweight interfacing = ½ yard

ACCESORIES, NOTIONS, SUPPLIES, ETC.:

Zipper/piping foot for sewing machine

Quilting needles for sewing machine

1 spool of black thread

1 spool of gray thread matching wool gabardine and elastique

Tailor's/dressmaker's white pencil

Fray Check (or another brand's equivalent)

1 can of temporary fabric spray adhesive

1 black lightweight separating jacket zipper (15-19", as it can be shortened)

1 pair of shoulder pads

1 communicator of your choice

Iron and ironing board, preferably with a sleeve ironing board

"Substitute" material recommendations/alternatives

We're also aware of "vegan" sensibilities and the

So, as some alternatives to the woolen fabrics, we recommend: