Waterside

Waterside
A pattern by Anne B Hanssen
Happy knitting😊😊 … inspired from my favourite place to be
1
Sizes
Finished bust circumference, after washing/blocking, and worked at gauge:
90/100/110/120/130/140/150 cm = 35.5/39.5/43.5/47.25/51.25/55/59”.
Sample is worked in size 2 with 18 cm/7” of positive ease. Recommended ease: 10 – 20 cm = 4 -8”.
The fit of the sweater is supposed to be comfy. A schematic, and further measurements are found on page 10.
Materials
Yarn: I recommend any sport weight yarn that knits up to gauge.
I used “Arroyo” from Malabrigo to work the cardigan.
This sport weight, merino yarn, comes in skeins of 100 gr/3.53 oz and 305 m/334 yards.
Of this specific yarn you will need approximately 1000/1070/1170/1270/1400/1520/1650m =
1090/1166/1275/1385/1525/1655/1800 yards. Yardage might vary from one knitter to another.
Needles: circular needles, size 3 mm/US2.5 to work the hem of the lower body, and the neckline.
Circular needles, needle size 3.5 mm/US4, for the lower body.
A circular needle, or straight needles, in the same size as used for the lower body to work the upper body.
A set of dpn’s, size 3.5 mm/US4, (or a circular needle, if working the magic loop), to work the sleeves.
Notions: 6 stitch-markers. Separate holders. Tapestry needle. Blocking tools.
Gauge
For best results take the time to check your gauge!
24 sts and 34 rounds/rows in stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm/4 x 4”, after washing/blocking.
I used needle size 3.5 mm/US4 to obtain gauge, this is a suggestion only.
If you have too few sts you need to choose smaller needles,
if you have too many sts you need to choose larger needles.
Abbreviations
St/sts = stitch/stitches / RS = right side of work / WS = wrong side of work / K = knit / P = purl
Ssk = slip, slip, knit. Take care to slip the first st off the left-hand needle through front to back, place it on your
right-hand needle, slip the second st in the same way, insert the tip of your left-hand needle going through the
front of st 2 and st 1, knit through both sts, place the rem st on your right-hand needle
yo = yarn over / K2tog = knit 2 sts together / ktbl = knit through the back loop
ptbl = purl through the back loop / p2tog = purl 2 sts together / RHN = right-hand needle
p2togtbl = purl 2 sts together through the back-loops
pm = place marker / Sm = slip marker / rem = remaining
m1r = make 1 st rightwise: pick up the bar between the last stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit,
bringing the needle from the back to the front. Then knit into the front of this stitch
m1l = make 1 st leftwise: pick up the bar between the stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing
the needle from front to back. Then knit into the back of this stitch.
Special techniques
The short-rows of the upper back and front can be worked in different ways. You might have a favourite
method that you stick to, or find a technique that you want to try out. I explain how I did mine:
w&t = wrap and turn: bring the yarn to front of work between the needles. Sl the next st, place it on your
RHN, place the yarn around this st to back of work, slip st back to your LHN.
Turn work and continue work into the other direction
puw (RS rows, and over k sts): work until the wrapped st, going from front to back, insert the tip of the RHN
under the wrap, thereafter into the st, pull yarn through the st and the wrap, slip to your RHN.
Puw (WS rows, and over p sts): work until the wrapped st, going from back to front, insert the tip of the RNH
under the wrap, thereafter into the st, pull yarn through the wrap and the st, slip to your RHN.
2
Knitting instructions
The sweater is worked in the following order:
- The lower body is worked bottom-up, and in-the-round, starting from a ribbed hem,
followed by the main body in stockinette sts on the sides, and a centred pattern over front and back
- At underarms work is split. Upper back, and upper front, are worked flat in separate pieces.
Shoulders are shaped by short-rows.
Shoulders of front and back are worked together from RS using the 3-needle bind-off method.
- The sleeves are worked bottom-up, and in-the-round.
The cuffs are worked with the centred pattern and ribbed sts.
The main sleeve is worked with the centred pattern and stockinette sts.
- The neckline is worked in-the-round, from picked-up and live sts.
Cast on for lower body

The ribbed hem
Using a circular needle, size 3 mm/US2.5 cast on 216/240/264/288/312/336/360 sts.

You can use the long-tail cast-on method, or your preferred method.
Please note that a short, ribbed hem will need proper blocking to stay down, if not it will flip.
If your yarn doesn’t support heavy blocking you could add rounds.
Or start from a provisional cast-on, and work the hem top-down afterwards.
Row 1 (RS): (k1tbl, p1), repeat (-) to end of row

Place sts in the round, make sure not to twist.
Pm1 in front of the first st. This marker is placed on the left side of the front.
Work is continued in-the-round, and from RS. All rounds start from marker 1.
Rounds 1 - 4: sm1, (k1tbl, p1), repeat (-) to end of round
Set-up round for stockinette sts and pattern

Change to needles 3.5 mm/US4.
Starting from marker 1 on the left side of the front work is divided in stockinette sts on the sides,
pattern on centre front/centre back. Place new markers. The set-up is identical for the front and back.
Round 1: sm1, (k21/27/33/39/45/51/57, pm2,

work in pattern for 67 sts, starting from round 1 and following the written instructions and/or chart on page 3,
pm3, k20/26/32/38/44/50/56), pm4, repeat (-) over back, end at marker 1.
(You might call the markers in front of, and after, the pattern of the back markers 5 and 6).
From here you continue work in stockinette sts from marker 1 – 2, in pattern between marker 2 and 3,
in stockinette sts from marker 3 to 5, in pattern between marker 5 and 6, in stockinette to end of round.
The pattern is worked from round 1 – round 14, and repeating.
Work until lower body measures approximately 34 cm/13.25”,

measured from the cast-on edge, and ending with a round 14.
Please note that you could end at any even-numbered round (2/4/6/8/10/12 or 14),
you need to start from the correct row when working the upper body.
For example, if ending with a round 2, you will start from a row 3.
3
Written instructions, pattern for centre front/back.
Take care to read the instructions for ssk under abbreviations, on page 2.
Pattern is worked over 67 sts and 14 rounds:
Round 1: p1, k1tbl, k1, k1tbl, p1, (yo, k7, k2tog, k8, p1, k1tbl, p1), repeat (-) once, yo, k7, k2tog, k8,
p1, k1tbl, k1, k1tbl, p1
Round 2: p1, k1tbl, p1, k1tbl, p1, (k1, yo, k6, k2tog, k8, p1, k1tbl, p1), repeat (-) once, k1, yo, k6, k2tog, k8,
p1, k1tbl, p1, k1tbl, p1
Round 3: p1, k1tbl, k1, k1tbl, p1, (k2, yo, k5, k2tog, k8, p1, k1tbl, p1), repeat (-) once, k2, yo, k5, k2tog, k8,
Round 8: p1, k1tbl, p1, k1tbl, p1, (k8, ssk, k7, yo, p1, k1tbl, p1), repeat (-) once, k8, ssk, k7, yo,
Round 9: p1, k1tbl, k1, k1tbl, p1, (k8, ssk, k6, yo, k1, p1, k1tbl, p1), repeat (-) once, k8, ssk, k6, yo, k1,
Round 10: p1, k1tbl, p1, k1tbl, p1, (k8, ssk, k5, yo, k2, p1, k1tbl, p1), repeat (-) once, k8, ssk, k5, yo, k2,
Pattern for centre front/centre back.
x ¤ x ¤ x o \\ x ¤ x o \\ x ¤ x o \\ x ¤ x ¤ x 14
x ¤ ¤ x o \\ x ¤ x o \\ x ¤ x o \\ x ¤ ¤ x 13
x ¤ x ¤ x o \\ x ¤ x o \\ x ¤ x o \\ x ¤ x ¤ x 12
x ¤ ¤ x o \\ x ¤ x o \\ x ¤ x o \\ x ¤ ¤ x 11
x ¤ x ¤ x o \\ x ¤ x o \\ x ¤ x o \\ x ¤ x ¤ x 10
x ¤ ¤ x o \\ x ¤ x o \\ x ¤ x o \\ x ¤ ¤ x 9
x ¤ x ¤ x o \\ x ¤ x o \\ x ¤ x o \\ x ¤ x ¤ x 8
x ¤ ¤ x // o x ¤ x // o x ¤ x // o x ¤ ¤ x 7
x ¤ x ¤ x // o x ¤ x // o x ¤ x // o x ¤ x ¤ x 6
x ¤ ¤ x // o x ¤ x // o x ¤ x // o x ¤ ¤ x 5
x ¤ x ¤ x // o x ¤ x // o x ¤ x // o x ¤ x ¤ x 4
x ¤ ¤ x // o x ¤ x // o x ¤ x // o x ¤ ¤ x 3
x ¤ x ¤ x // o x ¤ x // o x ¤ x // o x ¤ x ¤ x 2
x ¤ ¤ x // o x ¤ x // o x ¤ x // o x ¤ ¤ x 1
67 66 65 64 63 62 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
k on RS x p on RS o yarn over ¤ ktbl on RS // k2tog \\ ssk
When you have worked to underarms (read bottom of page 3), proceed to dividing work on page 5.
4
Divide work for back and front. Start work over upper front, from RS:
Front is worked back and forth, using a circular needle, or straight needles,
in the same size as for the lower body.
Row 1 (RS): remove marker 1, k21/27/33/39/45/51/57, sm2, work in pattern for 67 sts, starting from row 1 (or
the row corresponding with the round you ended the lower body), and following the written instructions
and/or chart below, sm3, k20/26/32/38/44/50/56, cast on 1 st, remove marker 4.
You have 109/121/133/145/157/169/181 sts on the needle.
Leave the remaining sts on separate holders for back to be worked later.
Row 2 (WS): p21/27/33/39/45/51/57, sm3, work in pattern for 67 sts, following the written instructions and/or
chart (read from right to left), p21/27/33/39/45/51/57
Continue work as established in rows 1 – 2, following the pattern repeat until row 14, and repeating.
Written instructions for centre upper front/upper back.

Row 1 (RS): p1, k1tbl, k1, k1tbl, p1, (yo, k7, k2tog, k8, p1, k1tbl, p1), repeat (-) once, yo, k7, k2tog, k8,
Row 2 (WS): k1, p1tbl, k1, p1tbl, k1, (p8, p2tog, p6, yo, p1, k1, p1tbl, k1), repeat (-) once,
p8, p2tog, p6, yo, p1, k k1, p1tbl, k1, p1tbl, k1
Row 3 (RS): p1, k1tbl, k1, k1tbl, p1, (k2, yo, k5, k2tog, k8, p1, k1tbl, p1), repeat (-) once, k2, yo, k5, k2tog, k8,
p8, p2tog, p4, yo, p3, k k1, p1tbl, k1, p1tbl, k1
p8, p2tog, p2, yo, p5, k1, p1tbl, k1, p1tbl, k1
Row 8 (WS): k1, p1tbl, k1, p1tbl, k1, (yo, p7, p2togtbl, p8, k1, p1tbl, k1), repeat (-) once,
yo, p7, p2togtbl, p8, k1, p1tbl, k1, p1tbl, k1
Row 9 (RS): p1, k1tbl, k1, k1tbl, p1, (k8, ssk, k6, yo, k1, p1, k1tbl, p1), repeat (-) once, k8, ssk, k6, yo, k1,
Row 10 (WS): k1, p1tbl, k1, p1tbl, k1, (p2, yo, p5, p2togtbl, p8, k1, p1tbl, k1), repeat (-) once,
p2, yo, p5, p2togtbl, p8, k1, p1tbl, k1, p1tbl, k1
x ¤ x ¤ x o \\ x ¤ x o \\ x ¤ x o \\ x ¤ x ¤ x 14 WS
x ¤ ¤ x o \\ x ¤ x o \\ x ¤ x o \\ x ¤ ¤ x 13 RS
x ¤ ¤ x o \\ x ¤ x o \\ x ¤ x o \\ x ¤ ¤ x 11 RS
x ¤ ¤ x o \\ x ¤ x o \\ x ¤ x o \\ x ¤ ¤ x 9 RS
x ¤ ¤ x // o x ¤ x // o x ¤ x // o x ¤ ¤ x 7 RS
x ¤ x ¤ x // o x ¤ x // o x ¤ x // o x ¤ x ¤ x 6 WS
x ¤ ¤ x // o x ¤ x // o x ¤ x // o x ¤ ¤ x 5 RS
x ¤ ¤ x // o x ¤ x // o x ¤ x // o x ¤ ¤ x 3 RS
x ¤ ¤ x // o x ¤ x // o x ¤ x // o x ¤ ¤ x 1 RS
67 66 65 64 63 62 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
k on RS x p on RS o yarn over ¤ ktbl on RS // k2tog on RS \\ ssk on RS // p2tog on WS \\ p2togtbl on WS

p on WS k on WS RS and WS ptbl on WS
5
Work upper front until work measures 13.5/16/18/18.5/20/21/22.5 cm =5.25/6.25/7/7.25/8/8.5/9” ,
measured from diving work at underarms, end with a WS row (any pattern-row)
Please note: I recommend that you take a look at the schematic, and the measurement for upper sleeve.
If you need a wider sleeve you could work the upper body to the measurements of 1 size up.
Shaping neck:
From RS: k21/27/33/39/45/51/57, sm2, work 5 sts in pattern, k7, bind off 43 sts until you are 12 sts from
marker 3 (including the st on your right-hand needle), k6, work 5 sts in pattern, sm3, k21/27/33/39/45/51/57
Leave the first 33/39/45/51/57/63/69 sts in the row on a separate holder, to be worked later.
Continue work over the remaining 33/39/45/51/57/63/69 sts for right shoulder:
Row 1 (WS): work as established until 2 sts rem in the row, p2tog
Row 2 (RS): ssk, work as established to end of row
Repeat rows 1 – 2 one more time, repeat row 1 one more time (5 decreases towards neck in total)
Following RS row, start short-rows shaping,

read “Special techniques” on page 2 for the w&t:
Row 1 (RS): ssk, work as established until 5/4/5/4/6/7/5 sts rem, w&t
Row 2 (WS): work as established until 2 sts rem, p2tog
You have worked 7 decreases towards neck in total, and have 26/32/38/44/50/56/62 sts remaining
Row 3 (RS): work as established until 4 sts from the wrapped st, w&t
Row 4 (WS): work as established to end of row
Repeat rows 3 – 4 a total of 4/6/7/9/10/11/13 times (including the first repeat)
On the following RS row: work as established to the first wrap, (puw, k to the next wrap),
repeat (-) until you have picked up all the wraps, k to end
The side of the selvedge edge should measure approximately
15/17.5/19.5/20/21.5/22.5/24 cm = 6/6.75/7.75/8/8.5/9/9.5”, measured from dividing work.
Break yarn, and place the 26/32/38/44/50/56/62 sts on a separate holder.
Left side of front:
Replace the 33/39/45/51/57/63/69 sts from the separate holder to your working needle. Start work from WS:
Row 1 (WS): p2tog, work as established to end of row

Row 2 (RS): work as established until 2 sts rem in the row, k2tog
Repeat rows 1 – 2 twice more, 3 times worked in total (6 sts decreased in total towards neck)
Following WS row start short-rows shaping:
Row 1 (WS): p2tog, work as established until 5/4/5/4/6/7/5 sts rem, w&t
You have worked 7 decreases towards neck in total, and have 26/32/38/44/50/56/62 sts remaining
Row 2 (RS): work as established to end of row
Row 3 (WS): work as established until 4 sts from the wrapped st, w&t
Repeat rows 2 – 3 a total of 4/6/7/9/10/11/13 times, including the first repeat
The following RS: work as established to end
The following WS: work as established to the first wrap, (puw, p to the next wrap),
repeat (-) until you have picked up all the wraps, p to end.
Break yarn, and place the 26/32/38/44/50/56/62 sts on a separate holder.
6
Work over upper back:
Replace the 108/120/132/144/156/168/180 sts from the separate holders holding the sts for upper back.
Start work from RS. Remember to cast on 1 st at the end of the first row,
= 109/121/133/145/157/169/181 sts on the needle
Work as for the upper front in stockinette sts to marker 5, the centred pattern over 67 sts between marker 5
and 6, in stockinette sts from marker 6 to end of row, until work measures 15/17.5/19.5/20/21.5/22.5/24 cm =
6/6.75/7.75/8/8.5/9/9.5”, measured from dividing work, ending with a WS row.
You could end with any pattern row from WS.
Short-row shaping of the upper back. Start work from RS:
Please note that you are not picking up the wraps until the 2 last rows
Row 1 (RS): work as established in stockinette and in pattern until 5/4/5/4/6/7/5 sts rem in the row, w&t
(leave the unworked sts on the needle)
Row 2 (WS): work as established in stockinette and in pattern until 5/4/5/4/6/7/5 sts rem in the row, w&t
(leave the unworked sts on the needle)
Row 3 (RS): work as established in stockinette and in pattern until 4 sts rem from the wrapped st, w&t
(leave the unworked sts and wraps on the needle)
Row 4 (WS): work as established in stockinette and in pattern until 4 sts rem from the wrapped st, w&t
(leave the unworked sts and wraps on the needle)
Repeat rows 3 and 4 a total of 4/6/7/9/10/11/13 times (including the first repeat), ending with a WS row
The following RS: work as established to the first wrap, (puw, k to the next wrap), repeat (-) until you have
picked up all the wraps, k to end
The following WS: work as established to the first wrap, (puw, p to the next wrap), repeat (-) until you have
picked up all the wraps, p to end
Don’t break yarn, proceed directly to making up the right shoulder:
The shoulders are worked up from RS, using the 3-needle bind-off method.
Working them up from RS gives a visible edge. If you prefer you might work the shoulders up from WS.
Place the 26/32/38/44/50/56/62 sts of the fronts right shoulder on a needle, with the tip of the needle facing
the armhole opening. Work the sts together with the corresponding 26/32/38/44/50/56/62 sts of the back.
Break and secure yarn.
Work up the left shoulder in the same way.

You have 57 sts remaining over back. Leave them on the needle, and proceed to the neckline.
Neckline
Place the 57 sts from the back neck sts on a circular needle 3 mm/US2.5.
Sts should be picked up along the neckline of the front, 1 st from the edge.
From RS, starting from the neck-side of the shoulder-join of the left front, pick up and knit
12/16/17/20/22/23/26 sts to the centre bound-off sts, pick up and knit 43 sts from the centre bound-off sts,
pick up and knit 12/16/17/20/22/23/26 sts to the shoulder-join of the right front.
Pm in front of the first of the back neck sts. Work in the round, and from RS, starting from marker:
(p1, k1tbl), repeat (-) to end of round. Work a total of 5 rounds, ending at marker. Bind off in purl sts.
Break, and secure yarn.
7
Sleeves
Both sleeves are worked in the same way. The sleeves are worked bottom-up, and in-the-round.
I choose to work my sleeves bottom-up as the pattern looks slightly different turned the other direction.
Technically you can work them top-down, if you prefer, picking up the final number of sts around the armhole.
Using a dpn, size 3.5 mm/US4 cast on 45/48/51/54/54/57/57.

Use the same cast-on method as used for the body.
Divide the sts evenly over 3 dpn’s: needle 1: 12/14/15/17/17/18/18 sts, needle 2: 13/14/16/17/17/19/19 sts,
needle 3: 21 sts. (If you use the magic loop you place 25/28/31/34/34/37/37 sts on the first half of the needle,
21 sts on the second half of the needle.
Row 1 (RS): work in rib-pattern (k1tbl, p2) over needles 1 and 2, until 1 st rem, k1tbl, k21 over needle 3.
Place sts in the round, make sure not to twist. Work is continued in-the-round, and from RS.
Set-up round for markers (RS): pm1 in front of the first st,
work in rib-pattern over needles 1 and 2 as established, pm2, p21 sts over needle 3.
The following 28 rounds: sm1, work in rib-pattern as established over needles 1 and 2, sm2,
work 21 sts in pattern on needle 1, following the written instructions, and/or chart below, working from round
1 – 14, and repeating
Round 1: p2, yo, k7, k2tog, k8, p2

Round 2: p2, k1, yo, k6, k2tog, k8, p2
Round 8: p2, k8, ssk, k7, yo, p2
Round 9: p2, k8, ssk, k6, yo, k1, p2
x x o \\ x x 14
x x o \\ x x 13
x x o \\ x x 12
x x o \\ x x 11
x x o \\ x x 10
x x o \\ x x 9
x x o \\ x x 8
x x // o x x 7
x x // o x x 6
x x // o x x 5
x x // o x x 4
x x // o x x 3
x x // o x x 2
x x // o x x 1
21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
8
After the initial 28 pattern-rounds work is continued in stockinette sts on needles 1 and 2 (k all sts), in pattern
repeating pattern-rounds 1 – 14.
After 1 round of stockinette sts after the ribbing you start increases (read on the following page).
Increase round, starting from marker 1: sm1, k1, m1r, k until 1 st from marker 2, m1l, k1, sm2,
work in pattern on needle 3. 2 sts increased in the round.
Continue work as established in stockinette sts and pattern.

Repeat increase round every 8/8/7/6/6/5/4th round, a total of 11/12/13/16/18/19/22 times,
until you have 67/72/77/86/90/95/101 sts in the round.
Continue as established, and with no further increases until sleeve measures 45 cm/17.75”,
measured from the cast-on edge, or to desired measurements.
I recommend that you try on the body and sleeves to decide for the best sleeve length.
Bind off all sts. Break, and secure yarn.
Setting in sleeves:
Both sleeves are set in in the same way. Turn sleeves and the body inside out.
Pin the armhole opening of the sleeve to the armhole opening of the body. RS should be facing each-other.
Make sure that the centre-st of the pattern over sleeve meets the shoulder-join.
Seam a neat seam from WS around the armhole, 1 st from the edge.
If you detest seaming you could pick up and knit the same amount of sts as the sleeves around the armhole-
opening of the body, and work the sleeve and body together from WS using the 3-needle bind-off method.Turn
garment inside out. Weave in loose ends from WS. Wash, and block into measurements.
Finished, and ready to use and to cherish! I would love to see your project on Ravelry😊😊
9
Schematic
All measurements are finished measurements, after washing/blocking, and worked at gauge.
1 - Chest circumference: 90/100/110/120/130/140/150 cm = 35.5/39.5/43.5/47.25/51.25/55/59”

2 - Circumference of sleeve, at widest point:
27.5/30.5/32/36/38/39.5/42 cm = 11/12/12.5/14/15/15.5/16.5”
C – B: depth of armhole, measured from the underarm to the shoulder join:
15/17.5/19.5/20/21.5/22.5/24 cm = 6/6.75/7.75/8/8.5/9/9.5”
A – B: total length of lower body, from cast-on to underarm: 34 cm/13.25”
B – D: total sleeve-length, from cast-on to bind-off: 45 cm/17.5”
This pattern is copyrighted by Anne B Hanssen Design/Anne B Hanssen Design AB.

All rights reserved. This includes the photos, the charts, the instructions, the schematic.
This pattern is for personal use only. You can print this pattern but cannot distribute by hardcopy or
electronically, for free or for sale. This means very much to me, thank you for respecting😊😊
10

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Waterside

A pattern by Anne B Hanssen

Happy knitting😊😊 … inspired from my favourite place to be

Cast on for lower body

Using a circular needle, size 3 mm/US2.5 cast on 216/240/264/288/312/336/360 sts.

Row 1 (RS): (k1tbl, p1), repeat (-) to end of row

Set-up round for stockinette sts and pattern

Round 1: sm1, (k21/27/33/39/45/51/57, pm2,

Work until lower body measures approximately 34 cm/13.25”,

k on RS x p on RS o yarn over ¤ ktbl on RS // k2tog \\ ssk

Written instructions for centre upper front/upper back.

k on RS x p on RS o yarn over ¤ ktbl on RS // k2tog on RS \\ ssk on RS // p2tog on WS \\ p2togtbl on WS

Following RS row, start short-rows shaping,

Repeat rows 3 – 4 a total of 4/6/7/9/10/11/13 times (including the first repeat)

Left side of front:

Row 1 (WS): p2tog, work as established to end of row

Following WS row start short-rows shaping:

Break yarn, and place the 26/32/38/44/50/56/62 sts on a separate holder.

Short-row shaping of the upper back. Start work from RS:

Don’t break yarn, proceed directly to making up the right shoulder:

Work up the left shoulder in the same way.

Using a dpn, size 3.5 mm/US4 cast on 45/48/51/54/54/57/57.

Round 1: p2, yo, k7, k2tog, k8, p2

Continue work as established in stockinette sts and pattern.

1 - Chest circumference: 90/100/110/120/130/140/150 cm = 35.5/39.5/43.5/47.25/51.25/55/59”

This pattern is copyrighted by Anne B Hanssen Design/Anne B Hanssen Design AB.

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